Cook's Country

Cocktail Meatballs

I’M ESPECIALLY FOND of the saucy, flavorful mini meatballs called cocktail meatballs. These bold little treats are often made in (and served from) a slow cooker to feed a hungry crowd. The best ones are sweet, spicy, savory, and fun to spear and eat with a toothpick at a party—preferably with a favorite beverage in your other hand. But many versions of these meatballs disappoint. This became apparent to my test kitchen colleagues when I prepared and presented six slow-cooker versions that led to comments such as “rubbery,” “way too sweet,” and “cue sad trombone noise.”

The worst of these

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