Honoring the stories of American cuisines

VER 20 YEARS IN THE FOOD WORLD, I HAVE WATCHED talented chefs and leading restaurants across the U.S. build a New American cuisine. These chefs, typically white and U.S.-born, often treated ingredients like yuzu, turmeric, berbere, poblanos and za’atar as experimental inputs, not parts of other people’s history. As an Indian immigrant, I realized there was more

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