Cook's Illustrated

The Salty, Sweet, Smoky Science of Bacon

When cooks first cured pork bellies thousands of years ago, their purpose was preservation: The salt deprived harmful microbes of water, effectively killing them so that the uncooked meat could be kept for months without spoiling. Later, sugar, smoke, and the curing salt called sodium nitrite were added to the preservation process. But once refrigeration arrived, bacon became purely indulgent.

There’s serious science behind its primal appeal. As it cures and cooks, the pork undergoes a storm of chemical reactions, which results in its unmistakable aroma and flavor. We’ll explain all that and leave you with a recipe for home-cured bacon—a project that’s easier than you think and that all bacon aficionados should try at least once.

THE CURE

Manufacturers use one or both of

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