ITALY IN ISOLATION

COOKING DURING OUR 10-week lockdown in Italy was at once a chore and a salvation.

It was a chore because, of course, it had to be done. And it was a cruel irony, because often the most enduring memories for anyone who has visited Italy (particularly Bologna, where we were based, which is regarded as one of the food capitals of this great nation) are the restaurants. High-end or low, they’re