CHANGING COURSE

I thought I was going to have a slow, steady introduction to big wave surfing. Antman, however, had other ideas. That’s how I found myself holding onto the end of a towrope amongst 30-foot waves miles out to sea, asking myself what, exactly, was I was doing there?

I’d never considered myself a “big wave surfer” but coming from WA, I’ve always enjoyed the bigger stuff. Dad taught me to surf and even from a young age, he was always pushing and encouraging me to overcome my fears. Quite often, I’d be the only female out in the lineup amongst a sea of hardened Aussie men. I’ve loved the thrill you get from catching a bigger wave ever since then.

I also