149 Paintings You Really Should See in Europe — Russia, Poland, and the Czech Republic
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About this ebook
This chapter from Julian Porter’s essential companion to all the major European museums and galleries discusses some of the greatest paintings to be found in the museums and galleries of Russia, Poland, and the Czech Republic. His passion for art began with the seven years he spent as a student tour guide in Europe. In this segment he visits St. Petersburg, Krakow, and Prague and discusses works by masters such as da Vinci, Matisse, Dürer, and many more.
In the usually pretentious arena of art connoisseurs, Porter’s voice stands out as fresh and original. He finds the best of the best, which he describes with entertaining irreverence, and spares you hours of sore feet and superfluous information.
Julian Porter
Julian Porter is a litigation lawyer whose other passion in life is art. He’s had a lot of fun looking at art and wants to share his enthusiasm with others. He has lectured in galleries from Madrid to St. Petersburg. He lives in Toronto.
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149 Paintings You Really Should See in Europe — Russia, Poland, and the Czech Republic - Julian Porter
8
EASTERN EUROPE
In the vast area that constitutes eastern Europe, there are three essential stops in our quest for the must-see masterpieces of European art: St. Petersburg, Krakow, and Prague.
The Hermitage in St. Petersburg, known also as the Winter Palace, sits on the edge of the Neva River, at night all aglow in golden light, which reflects in the water, a site of magic. The interior façade over the Palace Square, green, white, and gold, a fairy-tale cake.
Krakow presents a schizophrenic feast. Medieval, untouched by war, a square that can match the best in Europe. And its Czartoryski Museum has Leonardo da Vinci’s glorious Lady with Ermine, unquestionably a must-see. Yet twenty minutes away — Auschwitz. They don’t mesh, and my pleasure in my surroundings is mitigated by my awareness of that grim history.
Prague may be awkward to reach, but architecturally it is rivalled by few other cities in Europe. Prague’s architecture exploits colour and turrets. Again and again you reach for the camera, for a view of a façade, in a narrow street, or a row of buildings next to an elegant river.
THE PAINTINGS
115. Return of the Prodigal Son
Rembrandt Harmensz van Rijn, 1668–69
The State Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg, Russia
Photo: Scala / Art Resource, NY
The Bible story of the prodigal son is every wastrel’s heaven. The father gives him money early, he leaves the house, travels to a faraway country, and