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Poulet: More Than 50 Remarkable Recipes That Exalt the Honest Chicken
Oleh Cree LeFavour dan France Ruffenach
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Penilaian: 5 dari 5 bintang5/5 (1 penilaian)
Panjangnya: 417 halaman3 jam
- Penerbit:
- Chronicle Books Digital
- Dirilis:
- Oct 21, 2011
- ISBN:
- 9781452108414
- Format:
- Buku
Deskripsi
Poulet is more than just a cookbook dedicated to chicken: it is an ode to this worldwide favorite. More than 50 thoughtful recipes cover the globe to breathe new life into the well-loved chicken supper. Five chapters are organized by flavor profile American, Bistro, Latin, East and South Asian, and North African/Mediterranean to bring to the table wherever you live. Each recipe is organized into a set matching a main course of chicken with a complementary grain, salad, vegetable, or bread. Author Cree LeFavour's sophistication and humor, coupled with wine, cocktail, and beer suggestions, spark a new appreciation of a time-honored favorite.
Tindakan Buku
Mulai MembacaInformasi Buku
Poulet: More Than 50 Remarkable Recipes That Exalt the Honest Chicken
Oleh Cree LeFavour dan France Ruffenach
Nilai:
Penilaian: 5 dari 5 bintang5/5 (1 penilaian)
Panjangnya: 417 halaman3 jam
Deskripsi
Poulet is more than just a cookbook dedicated to chicken: it is an ode to this worldwide favorite. More than 50 thoughtful recipes cover the globe to breathe new life into the well-loved chicken supper. Five chapters are organized by flavor profile American, Bistro, Latin, East and South Asian, and North African/Mediterranean to bring to the table wherever you live. Each recipe is organized into a set matching a main course of chicken with a complementary grain, salad, vegetable, or bread. Author Cree LeFavour's sophistication and humor, coupled with wine, cocktail, and beer suggestions, spark a new appreciation of a time-honored favorite.
- Penerbit:
- Chronicle Books Digital
- Dirilis:
- Oct 21, 2011
- ISBN:
- 9781452108414
- Format:
- Buku
Tentang penulis
Cree LeFavour is a cookbook writer who grew up on a ranch in Idaho. Her books include The New Steak . She lives with her two children, Penn and Harriet, and her husband, Dwight Garner, in Frenchtown New Jersey.
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Poulet - Cree LeFavour
INTRODUCTION
—FLAVOR AND STYLE:—
MY KITCHEN TO YOURS
I wrote Poulet by cooking chicken the way I like to eat it, with the side dishes I dream about—lots of vegetables and salads and starchy profundities like potatoes, rice, and couscous. Anyone who has eaten my cooking more than once will see me in these recipes. Exotic curries, crazy-spicy soups, elegant French sauces—I’m there. You’ll also recognize me by what’s not in the book, notably, the absence of a lot of tedious instructions and fussy, unnecessary steps. Because dinner is always getting started later than it should at my house, I need to be efficient. I rely on great ingredients, simple techniques, and surprising combinations to make my food taste fresh and vigorous.
Think of the no-knead bread revolution that swept home baking in the past decade. You can get great flavor, an amazing crust, and a perfect crumb at home, as it turns out, without the fuss, bother, and time required to knead the dough, and without even covering it to keep the draft off. Bread-making didn’t need to be so hard!
Along the same lines, cooking chicken, rice, or vegetables often doesn’t need to be as hard as you may have thought, either. A lot of silliness has crept into recipes over the years—Rube Goldberg—like steps that make no sense for the home cook trying to get dinner on the table or deal out an awesome meal at a dinner party.
So think of what sounds delicious and cook it, whether it’s a spicy Thai sandwich or a Japanese stew or a big pile of fried chicken. What I crave is all right here: bright, assertive flavors that come from spices like coriander, cardamom, cumin, and mustard seeds. I crave chiles of all kinds—sweet, hot, and a little of both. I crave butter, fresh herbs, the taste of raw shallots, and the spicy crunch of a radish. I crave perfect lettuce and the sting of green, unfiltered olive oil mixed with fresh lemon juice. I dream about crispy, salty skin clinging to fatty chicken thighs. You’ll find all these things in abundance in Poulet. Producing big flavors is my ambition in the kitchen. Make it yours.
I grew up in a restaurant family that did a lot of traveling. My father was an accomplished chef who taught me—in the kitchen and at tables around the world—to be a fearless eater and an equally fearless cook. Food was always fun and always worth talking about in my family. I hope that ease and enthusiasm comes across in my recipes, inspiring your results in the kitchen to taste better than you thought possible.
A central part of the idea behind Poulet was to have it be appealing and useful to the loyal cooks who put dinner on the table every night—specifically those countless devotees of chicken’s versatility and affordability as a source of organic protein. With chapters organized to reflect how culinary traditions encompass broad geographic regions and the flavors that define them, I’ve interpreted combinations and approprated ingredients, kitchen styles, and traditions from Asia, Africa, India, Europe, the Americas, and the Middle East. Despite the title, the aesthetic that defines Poulet is American—we have a knack for absorbing, churning, and redefining diverse flavors and styles from around the world. From a spicy Sichuan Chicken Hot Pot (see recipe) to the luxurious restraint of Truffled Roast Chicken (see recipe) eaten slowly and washed down with an earthy Rhône red wine, Poulet has it all for chicken lovers—and that means wherever you come from and whatever you like to eat, you can cook it yourself, usually in under an hour.
Every recipe in Poulet is rooted in my belief that anyone can cook—and cook well. This conviction makes for an ideal marriage, in the kitchen and elsewhere, between the practical (what we know we can make) and the dreamy (what we want to eat but aren’t sure we’re up to cooking). Despite my desire for the fresh, the new, and the most delicious, I’m still very attuned to the practical necessity of getting dinner on the table quickly amidst the chaos of crazy, overbooked lives.
A few words to keep in mind: Don’t be intimidated by long lists of ingredients. In most of the recipes here, everything goes in one pot with minimal preparation and a method that will be familiar to many. I’m unapologetic about my basic adherence to simple French kitchen techniques; I like them because they work and because that’s how I learned to cook. I’ve also worked to devise methods to make complicated flavors easier to achieve, putting them within reach of beginners and everyone else who’s pressed for time. If you can be vigilant about every ingredient, your food will show it. A lot of chicken recipes are hurt by less-than-fresh ingredients. Why use dried herbs, canned tomatoes, or frozen vegetables when you can do better—and without much more effort.
Whether it’s summer or winter, a big dinner for eight or a weeknight family meal around the kitchen table, what we choose to eat is a growing part of how we define our place in the world. I see that world, and the wealth of flavors and ingredients in it, as a complex reality that can become—with the help of a good recipe, a sharp knife, and an engaged mind—the perfect meal. And that is what I hope will make Poulet a trusted resource in your kitchen.
—EATING SEASONALLY—
In rural Idaho in the early 1970s, I lived with my family on a dude ranch that we had transformed into a restaurant. We grew our own vegetables and herbs; raised chickens, pigs, and rabbits for slaughter; cured bacon; milked cows; made butter; and raised geese, goats, and ducks for their livers, milk, and meat. I slopped the pigs, milked the cow and the goat, plucked the freshly killed chickens, played with the baby rabbits, and collected the eggs from our flock of layers. I understand that fresh ingredients aren’t a gimmick and that local, sustainable eating is an ethical choice we make every day. The ingredients we use, when combined with simple kitchen methods and attention to detail, make the difference between just okay and surprising, memorable results. I know; not everyone is lucky enough to have access to the resources that make these choices possible. There’s not a Whole Foods on every corner. Do the best you can. Every little bit helps.
I support local farmers as much as possible. I go to the farmers’ market, visit farm stands, and, whenever I can, I buy pork, chicken, and beef from small farms nearby. Do I buy bananas? Yep, and where I come from they are never in season and never local. But I don’t buy berries flown in from South America in the middle of a January snowstorm, no matter how tempted I might be. Without being a fanatic about it, I believe that food is seasonal. I choose to eat fruit that grows closer to home in its proper season. Satsumas are to January what raspberries are to August—the perfect fruit.
These choices we make every day are political ones. They’re driven by the conviction that we shouldn’t be flying berries halfway around the world. In part, these are economic decisions; those January berries cost twice what they do in July. High-minded reasons aside, I choose not to buy raspberries that have been shipped halfway around the world because they often taste more like airplane food than fresh fruit. My reasons, then, are in turn pragmatic, practical, aesthetic, political, and purely whimsical. Perhaps the simplest answer is that I don’t buy berries—or most fruits and vegetables—out of season because I so look forward to popping the first one of the year into my mouth. I’d hate to cheat myself out of that pleasure!
—SUSTAINABLE EATING:—
SMALLER, ORGANIC, HUMANE-
CERTIFIED PORTIONS OF PROTEIN
Americans eat too much meat. I’m definitely part of the problem—I’ve written not just this chicken book, but a steak book as well! I’m not apologetic about being an omnivore. I’d like to think I’m flexible but conscious of the choices I make when it comes to eating meat. I’ve kept a small flock of layers for more than a decade. They live a pretty happy life. I’ve killed and eaten a few especially aggressive roosters over the years—the kind that attack little kids right at eye level—because that’s what you do if you keep livestock. I don’t much like the process of slaughtering, bleeding, plucking, and eviscerating a chicken, but I think it would be a good thing if more of us were forced to look dinner in the eye before we ate it (at least once in a while).
—THE CHICKEN—
REVOLUTION
THAT IS POULET
If this book weren’t called Poulet, I might have titled it, simply, Thighs. The thigh is dark meat at its most intense, flavorful best. Novelist Jim Harrison once wondered what happens to all the glorious thighs in America. All restaurants seem to serve is white meat. Do we send them all to Russia? he asked. God, what I’d do for a plate of thighs,
Harrison wrote. "You know, grilled in paillard form with a sauce made of garlic that has been roasted with olive oil and thyme, then puréed and spread on the crisp thigh skin. I think Harrison would be happy to see all the thighs in this book—and not a boned breast in sight. Tired chicken recipes almost invariably call for boneless chicken breasts. Ask the chickens—they’re tipping over from the weight of the giant breasts they’ve been bred to develop. To go with them, we’re drowning in equally imbalanced and bland recipes: chicken piccata, chicken cordon bleu, chicken
Parm." If I never see another recipe for breast meat, never mind stuffed breast meat, I will die happy. Why eat breast meat when you can eat a thigh? Why?
When I’m not asking you to cook thighs, I’ll be suggesting you cook a whole bird. Despite my dislike of breast-centric chicken recipes, I do love to buy a whole chicken, which (of course) happens to come with two breasts. As you might guess, writing a book like the one you’re holding requires eating a lot of chicken. To prevent family mutiny, I needed to accommodate everyone. My daughter, Hattie, loves breast meat; my son, Penn, likes the Barney Rubble attitude of a leg; I confess to a weakness for crispy wings. (My husband, Dwight, is an equal opportunity chicken-part-eater.) A whole bird offers all these tastes and, as a bonus, provides a carcass for making stock. So when I call for thighs, feel free to cook a whole chicken cut into eight pieces (don’t be daunted; see how to prepare)—or vice versa. Just please don’t use a boneless breast.
—SHOPPING FOR—
CHICKEN
WHAT THE LABELS REALLY MEAN
You want to buy a chicken that has lived its brief life behaving like a chicken—with plenty of room for scratching, flapping, pecking, grazing, preening, and roosting in and outdoors. Chickens raised this way taste better and are healthier to eat. Besides, looking for birds that have lived what I call a chicken’s life
makes good ethical sense.
Short of raising your own or buying your chicken from a local farmer at the farmers’ market, the best chicken you can buy is both Certified Organic and Humane Certified. It’s also air-dried. Once you read through what the various terms really mean, you’ll understand why you don’t, unless you have to, want to look the other way and settle for a natural
chicken. If you can’t afford to buy Certified Organic chicken, spend extra on an antibiotic-free Humane Certified bird. It’s a significant step up from natural.
Here are brief explanations of the various claims you’ll see on supermarket and natural-foods market poultry labels, along with tips on which words to look for if you want to find the tastiest, healthiest, most ethically raised chicken.
FREE-RANGE VS. PASTURED VS. GRASS-FED:
Unfortunately, these terms are defined by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) in a way that makes them fairly useless to consumers. For example, a free-range
chicken must simply be given access to the outdoors with no stipulation as to density or the ratio of birds to outdoor space. As you might guess, an open door to a cement slab used by thousands of chickens does not amount to the bucolic ideal of a scratching, grazing, happy chicken hunting and pecking under sunny skies.
Pastured
and grass-fed
are not legally defined terms. That means that by definition these claims are not verified or certified by a third party. If you want a chicken that has been outdoors, you’ll need to find a producer you trust or buy a Certified Organic chicken. This is the only label that guarantees a chicken has meaningful access to anything that can rightfully be called pasture.
NATURAL
This label means that a chicken has not been injected with artificial colors, flavors, or other ingredients and that it has been minimally processed.
But it’s essentially a worthless designation, since it does not reflect a chicken’s living conditions, antibiotic use, access to pasture, or the quality of its feed! You don’t want to cook and eat a chicken that has lived its brief life in a crowded, dusty, dimly lit battery of 20,000 birds while being fed antibiotic-laced feed. Conditions for industrial chicken production in the United States aren’t healthy for you nor humane for the chicken. Don’t be a part of this broken system. Eat chicken less often or eat less of it when you do have it, if you must, so that you can afford to buy better-quality chicken.
USDA PROCESS VERIFIED
Don’t be fooled by this label. It’s essentially a marketing gimmick meant to confuse consumers into thinking that cage free
means free roaming.
It doesn’t. These chickens are raised and processed just like the natural
chickens. The only modest improvement guaranteed by this label’s claim of an All Vegetarian Diet
is that chicken feathers and other animal by-products have not been added to these chickens’ feed. Let’s just say it’s an underwhelming improvement.
NO ANTIBIOTICS
The claim that chickens have been raised without the use of antibiotics—which in theory promotes growth and prevents disease—is regulated by the USDA. That means producers who label their chickens antibiotic-free
must submit documentation to the USDA to prove their claim. If I can’t find an organic chicken, I look for this label. Raising chickens without antibiotics requires healthier conditions, period. This is a big step in the right direction.
RAISED WITHOUT THE USE OF GROWTH HORMONES OR STEROIDS
The term hormone-free
is not allowed by the USDA because it is in fact against the law to feed growth hormones or steroids to chickens. Labels must make this clear if they mention growth hormones.
CERTIFIED ORGANIC
Who wouldn’t want to put an organic chicken—or two—in their grocery cart upon hearing the USDA’s definition of organic
as a set of cultural, biological, and mechanical practices that foster cycling of resources, promote ecological balance, and conserve biodiversity
? We all want to do the right thing when it comes to the food we buy and eat. When it comes to chicken, Certified Organic is a good start. From the second day of its life, each chick destined to become a Certified Organic broiler is fed pesticide-free organic food, given age-appropriate access to the outdoors (until they feather, chicks must be kept cozy indoors), sunshine, fresh water, shade, and the other accoutrements of a chicken’s life. In addition, organic poultry must be processed in organic-certified slaughterhouses. Best of all, these claims are certified by a third party. You’re getting what you pay for.
HUMANE CERTIFIED
When you see this label, you can be assured the chicken you’re about to eat has been far more humanely treated than its unfortunate cousins without the label. With plenty of space to move around, clean litter, access to roosts, fresh water, and wholesome (although not necessarily organic) food, these birds live a pretty decent existence. In addition, you can be assured that the chicken was transported and then slaughtered in a way that causes the least trauma and suffering. The Humane Certified label does not require that birds be given access to the outdoors, but even indoors, they are kept in coops with adequate light and fresh air. Humane Certified chickens are worth looking for; when combined with the Organic Certified label, this is the gold standard for commercially raised chicken.
FARMERS’ MARKETS
The chicken you buy at a farmers’ market isn’t going to carry any label at all. But what you are buying is usually a chicken that has been raised on a much smaller scale, most likely with access to pasture, weeds, bugs, and plenty of fresh air and water. Because of its diet, this chicken will have more flavor than intensively farmed birds; it might also be a little tougher because of all that exercise. Perfect for a braise left in the oven just a little past
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