Avondale and Chicago's Polish Village
By Jacob Kaplan, Dan Pogorzelski, Rob Reid and
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About this ebook
Home to Chicago's Polish Village, impressive examples of architecture, and the legendary Olson Waterfall, Avondale is often called "the neighborhood that built Chicago."
Images of America: Avondale and Chicago's Polish Village sheds light on the little known history of the community, including its fascinating industrial past. From its beginnings as a sleepy subdivision started by a Michigan senator, it became a cultural mecca for Chicago's Polish community, playing a crucial role in Poland's struggles for independence. Many people from all over the world also called Avondale home, such as Scottish proprietors, African American freedmen, Irish activists, Swedish shopkeepers, German tradesmen, Jewish merchants, Filipino laborers, and Italian entrepreneurs; a diversity further enriched as many from the former Soviet Bloc and Latin America settled here. Avondale would be unrecognizable today from its humble origins, but the strong sense of community these neighbors have will never change.
Jacob Kaplan
Jacob Kaplan is editor and cofounder of Forgotten Chicago. Daniel Pogorzelski is the vice president of the Northwest Chicago Historical Society and coauthor of the titles Portage Park and Bridgeport in the Images of America series. Rob Reid is a current Avondale resident and the founder of Avondale Time Machine, a local history blog. Elisa Addlesperger first discovered the joys of Chicago neighborhood history while working at the DePaul University Library Special Collections and Archives.
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Avondale and Chicago's Polish Village - Jacob Kaplan
College/Chicago
INTRODUCTION
First came the Indians, then the explorers, and lastly the fur-trappers and frontiersmen. The receding waters of glacial Lake Chicago, the predecessor of today’s Lake Michigan, had left the landscape flat and the soils of today’s Avondale marshy and damp in its wake. While this wet soil would prove to be a serious problem for the farmers who later settled here, it was a boon for those traveling through the area. Water is one of the oldest ways to travel over long distances, and most ancient settlements were built near it to facilitate communication with the outside world, a notion that even the Romans kept in mind as they assembled their vast empire. This water gave life to Chicago, sandwiched between the Great Lakes and the reach of rivers bound for the Mississippi and the warm shores of the Gulf of Mexico. Only its strategic value could overcome the inhospitable nature of this terrain, the last part of Illinois to be settled. The revolutionary canal that Joliet and Marquette imagined in their 17th-century travels would take more than 100 years to materialize.
However long it took and however costly its construction, the canal was finally built, and the city was born. Chicago burst forth with a bang, and people of all walks of life and from every corner of the world ventured here to try to strike it rich, as they still do. Industry boomed, and people would follow the herds of cattle bound for the stockyards. The city’s population was already 110,000 on the eve of the Civil War, a far cry from the 4,000 when it was chartered in 1837. In the span of just 10 years, between 1880 and 1890, the population doubled, from 500,000 to over a million citizens. Expansion became inevitable, and Jefferson Township, a quiet setting for truck farmers, was one of many areas Chicago annexed in 1889. This township was a wide expanse, bordered by present-day North Avenue to the south and Devon Avenue to the north and by Western Avenue to the east and Harlem Avenue to the west. Consisting mostly of open plains, Jefferson Township included a small hamlet that was commonly referred to as Avondale,
now firmly within the city limits of Chicago.
What began as prairie is now an intrinsic part of the residential fabric of Chicago. While Avondale is often synonymous with the Polish community, thanks to the prominence of Chicago’s Polish Village, this truth is certainly more complicated than it initially seems. None of Chicago’s ethnic enclaves, such as Pilsen, Greektown, Little Italy, Paseo Boricua, or countless other cultural districts, have been devoid of other peoples, and Avondale and Chicago’s Polish Village are no different. Yankee, German, Swedish, and even African American patches were an intrinsic part of the social environment of Avondale from the very beginning. While this cultural kaleidoscope has shifted over time with the addition of the Irish, Jews, Norwegians, Italians, Filipinos, Latinos, and peoples from all over the former Soviet Bloc, Polish culture still thrives here. Institutions such as Polvision and Polish Radio 1030 keep Poles all over Chicago informed on the latest goings-on, both in Chicago and Poland. Polish businesses provide customers with ethnic wares, while Polish bars, clubs, and restaurants keep their clients entertained and well fed. St. Hyacinth Basilica and St. Wenceslaus serve as both social centers and spiritual hubs for Poles all over Chicagoland. While the heart of Polish Chicago certainly beats in Avondale, other voices are an essential part of the neighborhood’s story.
Befitting the Shakespearean origin of its name (William Shakespeare was born in Stratford-upon-Avon), the boundaries of Avondale and Chicago’s Polish Village are somewhat fluid. With the Village of Avondale
extending as far south as Fullerton Avenue between Pulaski Road and California Avenue in 1881, Avondale predates its more recognized sister neighborhood of Logan Square to the south, giving rise to all sorts of curiosities when comparing the early history of both communities. While Poles could be found in all corners of Avondale, the area where Polish settlement was most visible was west of Kedzie Avenue along the Milwaukee Avenue corridor in Jackowo and Wacławowo. Additionally, these twin Polish patches
and the larger Polish Village, or Polska Osada,
that they collectively comprise, extended well outside the boundaries of the Avondale Community Area. The Kos´ciuszko Park neighborhood in the area of Logan Square, as well as the Villa District (Polskie Wille) and Merchant Park neighborhood in the Irving Park Community Area, has historically been vital parts of the Polish Village outside of the Avondale Community Area’s bounds. Finally, nascent gentrification and the trendier name recognition of bordering districts have led to a quirky partition of Avondale into an array of imaginary neighborhoods, such as West Roscoe Village and South Old Irving, as well as both North and West Logan Square.
What lends Avondale and Chicago’s Polish Village unity, however, is the proletarian nature of its built environment. Known as the neighborhood that built Chicago,
the brick pits in Avondale’s Bricktown that once lined Belmont Avenue were used to build a city that was bursting at the seams. Many of Avondale’s residents worked in the factory buildings that still make up an integral part of the local landscape, with their smokestacks vying for the skyline with the majestic steeples of the area’s many churches. It was this grit that has long captivated the attention of outsiders, such as street photographer Vivian Maier, who came to Avondale to capture that spirit in her lens.
Today, Avondale and Chicago’s Polish Village are experiencing a renaissance, with renewed interest in the area powered by its geography as well as an outpouring of creative zeal. Festivals such as the A Day in Avondale art walk, the Rafael López Mural and Garden, the new plaza at Woodard Street, and local arts initiatives spanning continents—such as Voice of the City’s recent collaboration with Teatr Brama Goleniów, the opening of the Puerto Rican Arts Alliance, and the Holiday Concert of Golec uOrkiestra at St. Hyacinth Basilica—all show the power that art has, not only in bringing people together but also in serving as an economic engine. Highlighting this point, artist Piotr Wolodkowicz, in conjunction with the Greater Avondale Chamber of Commerce, designed a historic crest for Chicago’s Polish Village and is working towards getting it endorsed by the government of Poland. Coupled with the recent rezoning of Milwaukee Avenue between Kimball and Central Park Avenues as artist-friendly live-work space, Avondale is once again reinventing itself. Nonetheless, locals pride themselves, in whatever language they may speak, that Avondale is without a doubt True Chicago.
As this book is a collection of vintage photographs, there are many remarkable places and curiosities in Avondale and Chicago’s Polish Village that are not featured here. Nonetheless, we hope you enjoy our humble attempt to bring you the history of this proletarian nook of Chicago.