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    Millinery Hat Making and Design - Fancy and Draped Crowns and Special-Purpose Millinery
    Millinery Hat Making and Design - Fancy and Draped Crowns and Special-Purpose Millinery
    Millinery Hat Making and Design - Fancy and Draped Crowns and Special-Purpose Millinery
    Ebook122 pages1 hour

    Millinery Hat Making and Design - Fancy and Draped Crowns and Special-Purpose Millinery

    By Read Books Ltd.

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    About this ebook

    This vintage volume contains a detailed guide to millinery, with directions for making veils, caps, special-purpose hats, and much more. With simple directions and useful, detailed illustrations, this book is ideal for the beginner, and would make for a fantastic addition to collections of handcrafting literature. Contents include: “Fancy Crowns”, “Draped Crowns”, “Fancy and Draped Crowns”, “Examination Questions”, “Special-Purpose Millinery”, “Nature and Importance”, “Veils”, “Hats and Related Millinery”, “Hats”, “Novelty Sports Sets”, “Caps”, etc. Many vintage books such as this are becoming increasingly rare and expensive. We are republishing this volume now in an affordable, high-quality edition complete with a specially commissioned new introduction on millinery.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherRead Books Ltd.
    Release dateJan 29, 2013
    ISBN9781447484158
    Millinery Hat Making and Design - Fancy and Draped Crowns and Special-Purpose Millinery

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      Book preview

      Millinery Hat Making and Design - Fancy and Draped Crowns and Special-Purpose Millinery - Read Books Ltd.

      FANCY AND DRAPED CROWNS

      INTRODUCTION

      1. Pressed buckram or manufactured crowns may be used as the foundations for hundreds of different styles by draping or otherwise arranging material artistically so as to cover the frames. A crown of this kind, used as a foundation, should be selected carefully, for it should not only fit the head snugly as to head-size, but it should conform to the general contour of the head, as well. The coverings of these crowns may be draped on loosely, making what are commonly known as draped crowns; or, what are known as fancy crowns may be made by covering the foundation crowns with lace, flowers, foliage, woven braid, ruffled ribbon, etc.

      2. In the long list of fancy and draped crowns are a number of standard and established styles that have been used for many years and that will probably be used for years to come. One of these standard forms is the beef-eater crown, so called because it resembles the crowns of the hats worn by the wardens of the Tower of London, who are colloquially termed beef-eaters. This is a full crown made of a circular piece of material shirred along the edge and drawn up to fit snugly over the head-size, so that the one piece forms both the top crown and the side crown. The circle of material is made large enough to allow the top to drape easily over the foundation.

      Another standard form is the tam-o’-shanter, which is a style obtained from Scotland. It is made of a circular piece of material 12 to 24 in. in diameter and a side crown made of a band sewed into a circle. The outer edge of the circular piece is gathered or plaited and sewed to the top edge of the side crown, the bottom of which is made to fit the head.

      As already stated, there is practically no limit to the number and variety of fancy and draped crowns that may be produced; however, examples of several different styles will be given.

      FANCY CROWNS

      3. Lace-Covered Crown.—The lace-covered fancy crown shown in Fig. 1 is a standard shape that is used considerably. During some seasons the foundation crown may be flat on top, or with only a slight curve at the upper edge of the side crown, but these changes do not alter, to any great extent, the method of covering the foundation. In this particular instance, the crown is a skeleton foundation, made of wire, the dimensions of which are as follows: Head-size wire, 24 in., to which must be added 3 in. for overlapped ends; front to back over top crown. 13 1/2 in.; side to side over top crown, 11 3/4 in.; diagonal support wires, 12 1/2 in. each; first brace wire above head-size wire, 24 in.; second brace wire, 23 3/4 in.; third brace wire, 22 1/2 in.; fourth brace wire, 19 3/4 in.; and fifth brace wire, 14 in. The lengths of these brace wires do not include the necessary allowance for overlap.

      FIG. 1

      4. After the wire frame has been made it should be covered with two thicknesses of maline, French crêpe, chiffon, or cotton net, the last named being used if the crown is to be covered with cotton lace. This covering is stretched on as evenly and smoothly as possible, although, as it is in one piece, there will be a few plaits at the bottom of the crown. Let the maline extend over the bottom edge of the crown for 1/2 in., cut it off evenly, turn it over the edge of the head-size wire, and sew it with the running-stitch. The frame is then ready to be covered with the lace, which is laid on straight from front to back and pinned in position, after which it is stretched from side to side and pinned to the maline or net foundation.

      5. As a usual thing, the lace will not be wide enough to cover the sides of the crown; therefore, pieces must be cut to fill in the sides. Then the points of the lace are sewed to the maline with the stab-stitch, a stitch being made wherever necessary to hold the lace smoothly to the foundation. The lace is turned under at the bottom to a depth of 1/2 in. and sewed, to the maline with the running-stitch. To impart a smooth appearance to the crown it may then be covered with one thickness of maline, stretched on in exactly the same manner as the first maline covering, its object being to hold the lace down in position. This operation is termed veiling the covering. The frame is now ready to be fastened to the brim of the hat, after which the trimming is put on in the proper places and positions.

      FIG. 2

      6. The frame shown in Fig. 1, covered with lace, can be converted into the fancy crown shown in Fig. 2. Cut a piece of maline 4 yd. long and split it lengthwise in the middle. As most maline is 28 in. wide, the piece when split will form two strips, each 4 yd. long and 14 in. wide. Each strip should be folded lengthwise in the middle so that there will be a double thickness 4 yd. long and 7 in. wide. In order to make the maline stick together and shirrnicely it is advisable to press each folded strip under a piece of tissue paper, using a moderately hot iron. Each strip is then shirred and converted into ruffles, as follows: Cut a pasteboard gauge 2 in. long and use this for gauging the first row of shirring. Run the first row the entire length of the maline, 2 in. from the top, or center fold, using silk thread to match the maline. At a distance of 3/4 in. below the first row of shirring make a second row, and at equal distances of 3/4 in. make three more rows of shirring. There will then be five rows of shirring in each strip. When the fifth row has been made, cut off the edge of the maline 1/4 in. from the last row of shirring.

      FIG. 3

      7.

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