Unrest Insured
By Matt Lambert
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Unrest Insured - Matt Lambert
Davis.
Over time, through local customs of consumption and means of production, certain beverages become associated with certain places. In the way that Atlanta is associated with Coca-Cola, Dublin with Guinness (although most of it is brewed in Lagos), and Buenos Aires with mate; London carries its own connections. In fact, London has more libational legacies than most places given its history as a center of imperial commerce. As humanity has crossed the Thames over the millennia, they have brought their beverages with them, just as the preferences of the British went out to all outposts of the empire. Probably reflecting my own bias, we will start with the ones that contain alcohol.
A Pimm’s cup is one of the drinks most associated with the city and is reserved for summer, especially the two weeks each year that Londoners turn their attention to Wimbledon. Pimm’s No. 1 is a gin-based liqueur mixed with a secret blend of spices that gives its distinctive citrus flavor. When 2 ounces of it are combined with 4 ounces of ginger ale and a slice of cucumber, it becomes a Pimm’s cup. The drink is also a mainstay at Napoleon’s, my favorite New Orleans bar, where they chose to mix their No.1 with either 7- up or lemonade.¹ Other Londoners prefer their gin in its original form, usually Beefeater brand, and adulterated only with tonic water. This combination proved to be a life- saver in malaria infested regions of the British Empire, as it was noticed that cocktail sipping officers of the British Army weren’t dying as fast as the sober soldiers and subjects under their command. It turns out that tonic water contains quinine, a natural anti-malarial, and it became the standard treatment for the malady for several decades before Plasmodium, the organism that causes the disease, developed resistance. In Kenya, the former British East Africa, a gin and tonic is served as a double shot of gin with no ice and a side bottle of cold tonic water, allowing the consumer to mix it to their taste. This proves perfect for those long inexplicable hours of waiting at the bar, usually on a driver or vehicle (although an official explanation is never given) then followed by a proclamation that it is time to travel even though there has been no perceptible change in surrounding circumstances. Back in London, there are few experiences more quintessential than going to the pub for a pint. Londoners have been drinking beer in this fashion for centuries and the pub serves as a neighborhood-gathering place to share ideas and laughs, although they don’t let you do it after midnight unless you join a private club. Given my preferences, I will take my hand pumped pint of Fuller’s London Pride at the Churchill Arms Pub in Kensington or at the Savoy Hotel while sitting on the stool once reserved for its most famous long term resident, the now departed Sir Richard Harris.
Moving on to other drinks not fortified with ethanol, but with caffeine, we come to tea. It is hard to think of any drink or social custom more connected to a place than tea and London. The custom of high tea or afternoon tea is such an integral part of the culture that tea is served in hospitals as treatment for headaches instead of the acetaminophen used in this country. The science being that the most likely cause of inpatient headaches is caffeine withdrawal, seeing how their hospitalization has most likely disrupted their usual tea routine. Tea first reached western Europe in significant amounts from China on Dutch trading vessels in the early seventeenth century and because black tea traveled better than green tea, it was (and remains) the preferred form. The first shipment arrived at the Hague in 1610 and drinking tea mixed with milk became a pastime of the wealthy who thought it to have medicinal qualities.² In London, the first public sale of tea was in 1658 where sugar was added to the mix and it was initially reserved only for privileged men. The demand for tea in England became so great that it created great wealth for traders and contributed greatly to the empire’s colonial growth. British traders tried for centuries to establish direct tea trade agreements with the Chinese but eventually settled on transporting it overland to India and then onto the UK by sea through the efforts of the British East India Company. There are conflicting accounts of how the consumption of tea, along with small pastries or cookies in the afternoon, became such an English tradition. One account is that the custom was started in the 1660s by Princess Catherine, who was from Portugal where it was acceptable for woman to take tea, and the practice was emulated by her subjects after she wed Charles II.³ Another account states that the tradition was started in the early ١٩th century by the Seventh Duchess of Bedford who had tea and crumpets in the afternoon to tide her over until the customary late dinners enjoyed by the aristocrats in the countryside.⁴ Either way, the consumption of tea in London is a big deal and has been so for a long time. But before there was tea, there was coffee.
Coffee, like humanity itself, comes from the area that is now called Ethiopia.٥ It is not known exactly when, or by whom, coffee was discovered but it was first known as bunn and in the beginning its berries were eaten and its leaves chewed. Eventually, the beans were roasted, ground, and water was added as part of an hours- long ceremony enjoyed once again, only by men. The cultivation and consumption of coffee spread via invasions and existing trade routes through the Arab world and made it to Europe in the early to mid 1500s. Along the way stimulating the new consumers to the point that many historians attribute the arrival of coffee, and therefore caffeine, with the birth of the Renaissance period. Prior to this, it was safer for Europeans to drink wine or ale, as the fermentation was their only reliable water treatment process. So instead of dying from dysentery, as they would have if they drank the water, most people walked around in a permanent drunken stupor. This was long before the germ theory, so it was still unknown that you could boil water to kill the microbes that made you ill and then drink it safely. But boiling water was a part of making coffee, so it was concluded by the scientists of the day that the coffee, not the boiling, purified the water and made it safe to consume. This combined with the stimulating effects of caffeine led many to the assumption that coffee had special properties and people became more creative and productive. Whether or not this led directly to artistic and scientific advances of the Renaissance we may never know, but I can tell you that a lot of coffee has been consumed writing this book.
Coffee made its way through Turkey, France, Germany, and finally Britain, where the first coffeehouse opened in 1650 at Oxford University.⁶ The first coffee shop in London was opened in 1652 by a man named Pasqua Rosee on St. Michael’s Alley in Cornhill.⁷ Rosee was either Greek or Italian, depending on the source, and he learned to prepare coffee from his days of trading with Turks. He advertised his product as a cure- all elixir and lauded its power to elevate the senses. The concept of the coffee shop spread quickly and by the beginning of the 18th century there were over two thousand coffee shops in London to meet the demands of the quarter million citizens of the day.⁸ Public acceptance of this new pastime, like always and for all things new, was varied. Some thought that drinking coffee all day was an improvement from everyone drinking beer all day, while others thought coffee shops should be reserved as the next place to be seen
for the city’s elite. Women, once again, were excluded from the first coffee shops and it is no surprise that much of the resistance to the new phenomenon came from them. In 1674 there was a movement to close coffee shops spelled out by the Women’s Petition Against Coffee that among others things complained that the shops were taking away their men, along with their vigor.
⁹ The resistance reached its peak in late ١٦٧٥ with proclamation from King Charles II that called for the banishment of all coffee houses in the city, but advocates and business owners were able to rally enough support to abolish the ban two days before it was to take effect.¹⁰ The coffee house phenomena was a precursor to the sort of behavior that London would see later with gin houses, or San Francisco would see with opium dens, or what we saw on U.S. streets with crack cocaine in the eighties. It is fascinating to compare how societies repeat similar patterns when faced with new