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    Fodor's Beijing
    Fodor's Beijing
    Fodor's Beijing
    Ebook435 pages4 hours

    Fodor's Beijing

    By Fodor's Travel Guides

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    About this ebook

    Written by locals, Fodor's travel guides have been offering expert advice for all tastes and budgets for 80 years. 

    Fodor's correspondents highlight the best of Beijing, including World Heritage sites, memorable markets, fantastic street food, and world-class nightlife. Our local experts vet every recommendation to ensure you make the most of your time, whether it’s your first trip or your fifth.

    This travel guide includes:
    · Dozens of full-color maps
    · Hundreds of hotel and restaurant recommendations, with Fodor's Choice designating our top picks
    · Multiple itineraries to explore the top attractions and what’s off the beaten path
    · Major sights such as Tiananmen Square, Confucius Temple, and Temple of Heaven 
    · Side Trips from Beijing including The Great Wall, Thirteen Ming Tombs, The Western Temples, Eastern Qing Tombs, and Chengde

    Planning to visit more of China? Check out Fodor's country-wide travel guide to China and also our Hong Kong guide.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherFodor's Travel
    Release dateFeb 24, 2015
    ISBN9781101878620
    Fodor's Beijing
    Author

    Fodor's Travel Guides

    For over 80 years, Fodor's Travel has been a trusted resource offering expert travel advice for every stage of a traveler's trip. We hire local writers who know their destinations better than anyone else, allowing us to provide the best travel recommendations for all tastes and budgets in over 7,500 worldwide destinations. Our books make it possible for every trip to be a trip of a lifetime.

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      Book preview

      Fodor's Beijing - Fodor's Travel Guides

      Beijing Maps

      Main Table of Contents

      Experience Beijing

      Beijing

      A Good Walk

      Exploring Beijing

      Dongcheng District North

      Dongcheng District South

      Xicheng District North

      Xicheng District South

      Temple of Heaven

      Chaoyang District

      Haidian District West

      Haidian District East

      Summer Palace

      The Best Side Trips

      Side Trips from Beijing

      Chengde

      Experience Beijing

      Main Table of Contents

      Top Beijing Neighborhoods

      Welcome to Beijing

      Beijing Top Attractions

      Great Itineraries

      Top Things to Do in Beijing

      A Brief History of Beijing

      Notable Architecture in Beijing

      Beijing Today

      Beijing with Kids

      Free (or Almost Free)

      Beijing made Easy

      Walking Beijing

      Major Festivals

      Top Beijing Neighborhoods

      Next Chapter | Table of Contents

      Beijing

      Next Map | Beijing Maps

      Dongcheng District. This is where you’ll find the city’s top must-see attractions, including Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City, the Buddhist grandeur of the Lama Temple, and the hutong (alleyway) neighborhoods that surround the Drum and Bell towers. Since 2010 the district has also included Chongwen, southeast of the imperial palace. Once upon a time, this area teemed with the activity of markets, gambling parlors, and less savory establishments. A historically accurate (but sanitized) re-creation of old Qianmen Street recaptures some of that lost glory, although it can feel stale and lifeless. The Temple of Heaven features some of China’s most impressive imperial-era architecture.

      Xicheng District. With Dongcheng, Xicheng encompasses the historically significant areas of Beijing that once lay inside the city walls; together the two make up the capital’s old inner core with the Forbidden City, home to the ruling imperial family, at its center. Six small lakes west of that key landmark lie at the heart of the district, which was once an imperial playground and is now home to China’s top leaders. Farther west, fashionable young Beijingers spend their hard-earned cash in the side-by-side shopping malls at Xidan. Tea lovers won’t want to miss Maliandao Tea Street.

      Chaoyang District. This district wraps around many of the areas forming new Beijing. The skyline-altering Central Business District is in the south, the nightlife of Sanlitun is in the middle, and the 798 Art District (aka Dashanzi) and Olympic Park are in the north. This is today’s China, with lots of flash and little connection to the country’s 5,000 years of history.

      Haidian District. The nation’s brightest minds study at prestigious Tsinghua and Peking universities in Beijing’s northwestern Haidian District. China’s own budding Silicon Valley, Zhongguancun, is also here. Head for one of the former imperial retreats at the Summer Palace, Fragrant Hills Park, or the Beijing Botanical Garden for some fresh air.

      Side Trips from Beijing. No visit to the Beijing area is complete without a side trip to the Great Wall, that ancient defensive perimeter that’s just 75 km (47 miles) to the north. Those who have time for a longer excursion could also head to the old imperial retreat of Chengde, now a vibrant city 230 km (143 miles) to the northeast.

      Beginning of Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

      Welcome to Beijing

      Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

      When to Go | Getting Around | Getting Oriented | Etiquette | Street Vocabulary

      When to Go

      The best time to visit Beijing is spring or early fall; the weather is better and crowds are a bit thinner. Book at least one month in advance during these times of year. In winter Beijing’s Forbidden City and Summer Palace can look fantastical and majestic, especially when their traditional tiled roofs are covered with a light dusting of snow and there are few tourists.

      The weather in Beijing is at its best in September and October, with a good chance of sunny days and mild temperatures. Winters are very cold, but it seldom snows. Some restaurants may be poorly heated, so bring a warm sweater. Late April through June is lovely. In July the days are hot and excruciatingly humid with a good chance of rain. Spring is also the time of year for Beijing’s famous dust storms. Pollution is an issue year-round but particularly in winter months.

      Avoid travel during Chinese New Year and National Day. Millions of Chinese travel during these weeks, making it difficult to book hotels, tours, and transportation. If you must visit during Chinese New Year, be sure to check out the traditional temple fairs that take place at religious sites around the city.

      Getting Around

      On Foot: Although traffic and modernization have put a bit of a cramp in Beijing’s walking style, meandering on foot remains one of the best ways to experience the capital—especially the old hutong neighborhoods.

      By Bike: Some 1,000 new automobiles take to the streets of the capital every day, bringing the total to more than 5 million vehicles. All this competition has made biking less pleasant and more dangerous. Fortunately, most streets have wide, well-defined bike lanes often separated from other traffic by an island. Bikes can be rented at many hotels and next to some subway stations. (And the local government has said it will reduce the number of new license plates by 40 percent by 2017).

      By Subway: The subway is the best way to avoid Beijing’s frequent traffic jams. With the opening of new lines, Beijing’s subway service is increasingly convenient. The metropolitan area is currently served by 14 lines as well as an express line to the airport. The subway runs from about 5 am to midnight daily, depending on the station. Fares are Y2 per ride for any distance and transfers are free. Stations are marked in both Chinese and English, and stops are also announced in both languages. Subways are best avoided during rush hours, when severe overcrowding is unavoidable.

      By Taxi: The taxi experience in Beijing has improved significantly as the city’s taxi companies gradually shift to cleaner, more comfortable new cars. In the daytime, flag-fall for taxis is Y13 for the first 3 km (2 miles) and Y2 per km thereafter. The rate rises to Y3 per km on trips over 15 km (8 miles) and after 11 pm, when the flag-fall also increases to Y14. At present, there’s also a Y1 gas surcharge for any rides exceeding 3 km (2 miles). WARNING: Be sure to check that the meter has been engaged to avoid fare negotiations at your destination. Taxis are easy to hail during the day, but can be difficult during evening rush hour, especially when it’s raining. If you’re having difficulty, go to the closest hotel and wait in line there. Few taxi drivers speak English, so ask your hotel concierge to write down your destination in Chinese.

      Getting Oriented

      At the heart of Beijing lies the Forbidden City, home of the emperors of old, which is adjacent to the secretive and off-limits Zhongnanhai, home of China’s current leadership. The rest of the city revolves around this core area, with a series of concentric rings roads reaching out into the suburbs, and most major arteries running north–south and east–west. As you explore Beijing, you’ll find that taxis are often the best way to get around. However, if the subway goes where you’re headed, it’s often a faster option than dealing with traffic.

      The city is divided into 18 municipal and suburban districts (qu). Only four of these districts are the central stomping grounds for most visitors; our coverage focuses on them. The most important, Dongcheng (east district) encompasses the Forbidden City, Tiananmen Square, Wangfujing (a major shopping street), the Lama Temple, and many other historical sites dating back to imperial times. Xicheng (west district), directly west of Dongcheng, is a lovely lake district that includes Beihai Park, a former playground of the imperial family, and a series of connected lakes bordered by willow trees, courtyard-lined hutong, and lively bars. Chaoyang is the biggest and busiest district, occupying the areas north, east, and south of the eastern Second Ring Road. Because it lies outside the Second Ring Road, which marked the eastern demarcation of the old city wall, there’s little of historical interest here, though it does have many of the city’s top hotels, restaurants, and shops. Chaoyang is also home to the foreign embassies, multinational companies, the Central Business District, and the Olympic Park. Haidian, the district that’s home to China’s top universities and technology companies, is northwest of the Third Ring Road; it’s packed with shops selling electronics and students cramming for their next exam.

      Etiquette

      It’s respectful to dress modestly at religious sites: cover your shoulders and don’t wear short skirts or shorts. Keep in mind that authorities are very sensitive about public behavior in Tiananmen Square, which teems with plainclothes state security officers at all times.

      Street Vocabulary

      Here are some terms you’ll see over and over again. These words will appear on maps and street signs, and they’re part of the name of just about every place you go:

      Dong is east, xi is west, nan is south, bei is north, and zhong means middle. Jie and lu mean street and road respectively, and da means big, so dajie equals avenue.

      Gongyuan means park. Jingshan Park is, therefore, also called Jingshan Gongyuan.

      Nei means inside and wai means outside. You will often come across these terms on streets that used to pass through a gate of the old city wall. Andingmen Neidajie, for example, is the section of the street located inside the Second Ring Road (where the gate used to be); Andingmen Waidajie is the section outside the gate.

      Qiao, or bridge, is part of the place name at just about every entrance and exit on the ring roads.

      Men, meaning door or gate, indicates a street that once passed through an entrance in the old wall that surrounded the city until it was mostly torn down in the 1960s. The entrances to parks and some other places are also referred to as men.

      Previous Chapter | Beginning of Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

      Beijing Top Attractions

      Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

      Forbidden City

      The Forbidden City has been home to a long line of emperors, beginning with Yongle, in 1420, and ending with Puyi (made famous by Bernardo Bertolucci’s 1987 film The Last Emperor), who was forced out of the complex by a warlord in 1924, over a decade after he abdicated his throne. This is the largest palace in the world, as well as the best preserved, and offers the most complete collection of imperial architecture in China.

      Lama Temple

      The smell of incense permeates one of the few functioning Buddhist temples in Beijing. When Emperor Yongzheng took the throne in 1722, his former residence was converted into this temple. During the Qianlong Period (1736–95) it became a center of the Yellow Hat sect of Tibetan Buddhism. At its high point, 1,500 lamas lived here. The Pavilion of Ten Thousand Fortunes (Wanfu Ge) has a 60-foot tall statue of the Maitreya Buddha carved from a single piece of sandalwood.

      Summer Palace

      This beautiful complex, surrounding a large lake, dates back eight centuries. Notable sights include the Long Corridor (a covered wooden walkway) and the Hall of Benevolent Longevity. At the west end of the lake is the famous Marble Boat that Cixi built with money intended to create a Chinese navy. The palace, which served as an imperial summer retreat, was ransacked by British and French soldiers in 1860 and later burned by Western soldiers seeking revenge for the Boxer Rebellion in 1900 (don’t confuse this with Yuan Ming Yuan, the Old Summer Palace, which was almost completely destroyed by foreign soldiers in 1860).

      Confucius Temple

      This temple, with its towering cypress and pine trees, offers a serene escape from the crowds at the nearby Lama Temple. This is the second-largest Confucian temple in China, after the one in Qufu, the master’s hometown in Shandong Province. First built in the 14th century, the Confucius Temple was renovated in the 18th century.

      Temple of Heaven

      The 15th-century Temple of Heaven is one of the best examples of religious architecture in China. The complex contains three main buildings where the emperor, as the Son of Heaven, offered semiannual prayers. The sprawling, tree-filled complex is a pleasant place for wandering: watch locals practicing martial arts, playing traditional instruments, and enjoying ballroom dancing on the grass.

      Tiananmen Square

      Walking beneath the red flags of Tiananmen Square is a quintessential Beijing experience. The political heart of modern China, the square covers 100 acres, making it the world’s largest public square. It was here, from the Gate of Heavenly Peace, that Mao Zedong proclaimed the founding of the People’s Republic of China on October 1, 1949, and it is here that he remains, embalmed in a mausoleum constructed in the square’s center. Many Westerners think only of the massive student demonstrations here in 1989, but it has been the site of protests, rallies, and marches for close to 100 years.

      Great Wall of China

      Touristy it may be, but make time to see it while you’re in Beijing. The closest location, at Badaling, is a one-hour drive away—you may recognize some of the views and angles here from their frequent use in photo ops.

      Previous Chapter | Beginning of Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

      Great Itineraries

      Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

      The Italian priest Matteo Ricci arrived in Beijing in 1598. His efforts to understand the capital led him to stay until his death, 12 years later. You, on the other hand, have to get back home before the week’s out. But while you may not have the luxury of time on your side, you do have the advantage of something Ricci could only dream of: our handy guide to the best one-, three- and five-day tours. Hit the best; forget the rest.

      Beijing in One Day

      It’s impossible to see everything Beijing has to offer in a single day. Still, if that’s all you’ve got, you can cover a lot of the key sights if you go full steam. The geographical center of Tiananmen Square is on most people’s must-do list. Fundamentally, however, it’s just a big square. Make the trip worthwhile by being first in line for the Mao Zedong Memorial Hall at 8 am (early birds may want to take in the pomp of the flag-raising ceremony held each dawn, which takes place around 7 am during winter months). Within this stern-looking building, which dominates the center of the square, you’ll find the Chairman’s embalmed remains. Remember to take your passport (and deposit any bags at the designated storage facility before lining up).

      Follow this curious experience by heading to the north side of the square to the Gate of Heavenly Peace, which marks the entrance to the Forbidden City, a sight that needs no introduction. This may be the home of the emperors, but the mark of Mao remains. You’ll have to pass under his portrait to make your way in. Exploring this imperial palace takes hours. The peripheral courtyards provide a welcome escape if the crowds become too trying. Save some energy for the gentle hike to the top of the hill in Jingshan Park opposite the north exit of the Forbidden City. Too many run out of gas and skip the stunning views.

      Reward yourself with a cracking good lunch deal at Temple Restaurant Beijing: fine dining in a 600-year-old temple. Take it easy in the afternoon with a stroll around Beihai Park—a former imperial garden—before renting a boat for a lazy time on its large lake. It’s then a half-hour walk (or short cab ride) to Wangfujing, a street made for shopping. The snack stalls here are particularly fun, especially if you’re brave enough to try the likes of starfish or scorpion on a stick.

      Ride the subway two stops from Wangfujing to Tiananmen West to round off the night with some world-class classical music at the architectural wonder that is the National Center for Performing Arts (also known as the Egg).

      Beijing in Three Days

      Start with our one-day tour as above. But then what to do with your other two days? Well, it’d be foolish to come all the way to China and not visit the Great Wall. There’s no getting around the fact, however, that this requires a full day. The Badaling section is closest; the wall at Mutianyu is better—both are somewhat touristy. If that bothers you then you may want to hike one of the wilder sections of the Great Wall. It’s possible, although not recommended, to do this independently. You’re better off hiring a guide. Our favorite is Tony Chen at Stretch-a-leg Travel (www.stretchalegtravel.com). Once you’re back in town, dine on Peking duck for dinner. Take your pick from Da Dong Roast Duck, Made in China, or Duck de Chine—three of the best places in town to try Beijing’s signature dish.

      For your final day get ready to explore the capital’s historical hutong—the fast-disappearing network of ancient alleyways that were the lifeblood of old Peking. Start at the atmospheric Lama Temple (easily reached via Line 2). This is the most important functioning Buddhist temple in Beijing and it remains full of life. Drop by the nearby Confucius Temple, dedicated to China’s great sage, before wandering through the area’s atmospheric hutong—Wudaoying and Guozijian are of particular interest. Wind your way through the area’s alleys en route to the Drum and Bell towers, which provided the city’s official means of timekeeping up until 1924. It should be a half-hour walk. But don’t worry if you get lost in the lanes, as that’s all part of the adventure. Climb either tower for a fabulous view. You’ll see the nearby Houhai lakes to the west—a good spot to rent a boat in summer or go ice-skating in winter. If you want to explore the area on foot, then head to the Silver Ingot Bridge instead, before finishing your day in the buzzing hutong around Nanluoguxiang (1 km [½ mile] east of Houhai), packed with boutiques, bars, and restaurants.

      Beijing in Five Days

      Lucky enough to have five days in the capital? Follow our three-day tour, then spend your remaining time taking in Beijing’s glorious mix of old and new, from temples and palaces to contemporary art and shopping galore. Kick off day four with an early start down south at the beautiful Temple of Heaven. This is where the emperors used to pray for prosperity. Today you’ll find it populated with the city’s older residents, who can often be found practicing tai chi or singing songs here.

      Once done with this impressive imperial sight, hop into a cab for the 5-km (3-mile) journey east to the Panjiayuan Antiques Market, which is a great place to pick up presents and mementos. Traders here sell everything from Chinese chess sets and delicate porcelain to Mao alarm clocks and traditional instruments. Another cab ride will take you to the 798 Art District up in the northeast part of the city (a half-hour drive in good traffic; an hour in bad), which is a wonderful way to spend an afternoon—avoid Monday, however, when most galleries here are shut. Formerly a factory complex, the area is now a thriving arts hub. The best gallery to visit is the UCCA, but the proliferation of little shops, cafés, and bars make this a great place to hang out even if you’re not into art.

      Head back to downtown Sanlitun for sundown. Shopaholics can squeeze in some last-minute spending at Yashow, an indoor market full of cheap clothes, bags, and such; bargain harder than you ever have before. Spend the evening soaking up Sanlitun’s bustling nightlife. Avoid the main bar street and check out the watering holes and eateries in Village Sanlitun instead. Get out of the city on your final day. Spend the morning back in imperial China at the striking Summer Palace up in Beijing’s northwest corner. Combine the trip with the ruins of nearby Yuan Ming Yuan, the Old Summer Palace. You may want to spend the afternoon at the Fragrant Hills Park—popular among residents escaping the urban grind—or the Beijing Botanical Garden. Both are even farther west than the Summer Palace and visiting just one will take the rest of the day.

      Previous Chapter | Beginning of Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

      Top Things to Do in Beijing

      Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

      See the city by bike

      Four wheels may be good for getting around, but two wheels are better. The capital demands to be discovered by bicycle. Unlock a different perspective on the city by renting a bike from Serk (www.serk.cc) and spending a day in the saddle. Or take a tour with Bike Beijing (www.bikebeijing.com).

      Dance the night away

      Beijing’s older inhabitants love to dance wherever they can set up a sound system: parks, squares, streets, and underpasses. One of the best places to join in is outside Saint Joseph’s Cathedral on Wangfujing. Hundreds of movers and groovers gather here every night. Get yourself down there and sway along to the sounds.

      Train in tai chi

      You’ll see plenty of folk practicing this gentle Chinese martial art throughout town. Our favorite way to train is with Bespoke Beijing (www.bespoke-beijing.com), who can arrange a private hour-long class among the trees of the Temple of Heaven. It’s led by a tai chi master who trained at the Shaolin Temple as a child.

      Eat scary snacks

      There’s some wonderful food to be had here. There are also some truly terrifying dishes to try if you’re feeling brave. The likes of scorpions on a stick are served up at Wangfujing Snack Street. To be safer, choose carts with a high turnover. For something less weird but just as savory, head to Xiaoyou Hutong, where a dozen eateries, refugees from urban renewal, serve traditional specialties inside a renovated courtyard house.

      Go for gold at the Olympic Park

      If you have the time, a visit to the Olympic Park, just north of the Fourth Ring Road, is a chance to see the starkly modern side of China—the face it wants the world to see. The Bird’s Nest stadium dominates the landscape, while the Water Cube, the venue for Michael Phelps’s extraordinary eight gold medals, has been turned into a thrilling water park, complete with a lazy river and slides and rides for all ages.

      Meditate with monks

      If a visit to the downtown Lama Temple awakens your spiritual side, then a weekend away staying with monks at Chaoyang Temple—an hour or two outside the city in Huairou District—may be the key to reaching real enlightenment. A crash course in Zen Buddhism awaits the curious (www.90travel.com).

      Enjoy a night at the opera

      Peking opera is regarded as one of the country’s cultural treasures. If you want to check out this unique form of traditional Chinese theater then you won’t get a better opportunity than in its birthplace. Be warned: the sonic style may not be music to all ears, but finding out is all part of the fun.

      Hike the Great Wall

      There’s more than one way to see the world’s most famous wall. Abandon the tourist trail and escape the crowds with Beijing Hikers (www.beijinghikers.com). This walking group runs regular trips to some of the more interesting areas of the Great Wall. Join them to explore unrestored sections most tourists don’t even know exist.

      Rock out

      Beijing is the beating heart of China’s burgeoning rock scene. Join the city’s hipsters and rock kids at one of the many gigs on the local circuit. MAO Live House (www.mao-music.com) and Yugong Yishan (www.yugongyishan.com) are two of the best venues to crash if you’re out cool hunting.

      Have a Beijing tea party

      Fans of a nice cup of cha won’t want to miss Maliandao—the largest tea market in north China. For a more personal experience you should head to Fangjia Hutong, where you’ll find Tranquil Tuesdays (www.tranquiltuesdays.com), a local social enterprise dedicated to China’s tea culture. Its founder, Charlene Wang, personally sources the nation’s best natural leaves for sale. Call ahead for an appointment.

      Check out the stunning stunts

      China’s acrobats train harder than

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