Frommer's Texas

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Frommer’s Star Ratings System

Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listed in this guide has been ranked for quality and value. Here’s what the stars mean:

AN IMPORTANT NOTE

The world is a dynamic place. Hotels change ownership, restaurants hike their prices, museums alter their opening hours, and busses and trains change their routings. And all of this can occur in the several months after our authors have visited, inspected, and written about, these hotels, restaurants, museums and transportation services. Though we have made valiant efforts to keep all our information fresh and up-to-date, some few changes can inevitably occur in the periods before a revised edition of this guidebook is published. So please bear with us if a tiny number of the details in this book have changed. Please also note that we have no responsibility or liability for any inaccuracy or errors or omissions, or for inconvenience, loss, damage, or expenses suffered by anyone as a result of assertions in this guide.

Kayaking on Lady Bird Lake in Austin.

CONTENTS

1The Best of Texas

2Texas in Depth

3Suggested Texas Itineraries

4Dallas

What to See & Do

Where to Stay

Where to Eat

Shopping

Big D Nightlife

Arlington

5Fort Worth

What to See & Do

Where to Stay

Where to Eat

Fort Worth Shopping

Fort Worth Nightlife

6Houston & East Texas

What to See & Do

Sports & Outdoor Activities

Where to Stay

Where to Eat

Houston Shopping

Houston Nightlife

Side Trips to East Texas

7The Texas Gulf Coast

Galveston

Corpus Christi

Rockport/Fulton

Port Aransas

Padre Island National Seashore

South Padre Island

8San Antonio

What to See & Do

Sports & Outdoor Activities

Where to Stay

Where to Eat

San Antonio Shopping

San Antonio Nightlife

Small-Town Texas

Hill Country Side Trips from San Antonio

9Austin

What to See & Do

Staying Active

Where to Stay

Where to Eat

Austin Shopping

Austin Nightlife

Hill Country Side Trips from Austin

10West Texas

El Paso

Small Towns & Sites of Central West Texas

Midland & Odessa

Del Rio & Amistad National Recreation Area

11Big Bend & Guadalupe Mountains National Parks

Big Bend National Park

Guadalupe Mountains National Park

A Side Trip to Carlsbad Caverns National Park

12The Panhandle Plains

Amarillo

Lubbock

13Planning Your Trip to Texas

Index

Map List

About the Author

River Walk in San Antonio.

A Look at Texas

For big and colorful, Texas is pretty hard to beat. The state’s outsize swagger speaks of the rootin-tootin’ Wild West, big oil, and oceans of prairie dotted with desert scrub. Texas sprawl is no cliché—the second-largest state in the union stakes out a big footprint on the U.S. map, zigzagging through climate zones and eco-terrains, from high-country desert to breezy Gulf beaches to gentle hills blanketed in bluebonnets. But Texas is not just starry, big-sky landscapes. It is thoroughly 21st century, with shining cities sheathed in vertical steel and glass; cutting-edge art museums with world-class collections; and locavore farm-to-fork eateries blossoming in every corner of the state. The real Texas is here, but it’s also in the small-town fairs, the boot-scooting dance halls, the sizzling Tex-Mex fiestas. High, low; cool, hot: Texas does it all with a big dash of Lone Star panache.  

The diverse landscape of Big Bend National Park comprises sun-bleached desert, lush river canyons, and craggy peaks rising out of desert scrub. See chapter 11.

Texas Cities

Spring-fed Barton Springs Pool (p. 295) is Austin’s recreational jewel, a 3-acre public swimming hole with crystal-clear water and sloping green banks.

A country band in full toe-tapping swing at the Broken Spoke, one of Austin’s classic dancehalls. See p. 336.

A fried chicken-avocado wrap—aka cone—at the Mighty Cone, one of the vendors in South Central Austin’s celebrated lineup of food trailers (p. 329).

A local sheriff stands at attention before the Alamo mission, site of the famed 1836 battle and an iconic shrine to the state’s fight for independence from Mexico. See p. 241.

The leafy pathways of the River Walk trace the curve of the San Antonio River for 15 miles in the heart of San Antonio. See p. 244.

The arched doorway of the 1756 Espada Mission, part of the San Antonio Missions National Historical Park (p. 246).

The Nasher Sculpture Center in Dallas is the only museum in the U.S. completely devoted to sculpture (p. 68). Pictured is The Bronze Crowd by Magdalena Abakanowicz.

The tallest Ferris wheel in the U.S., the Texas Star, towers above the horizon at the State Fair of Texas in Dallas. See chapter 4.

A little girl forms the I in Dallas’s Big Things Happen Here logo before a mural in the city’s Bishop Arts District (chapter 4).

Get your cowboy duds at M. L. Leddy's boot shop in Fort Worth, which sells classic Western wear like custom boots, handmade belts, and cowboy hats (p. 139).

A mother and baby gorilla in the award-winning Fort Worth Zoo (p. 122), considered one of the country’s top zoos.

Kids play in the sprinklers on Sundance Square Plaza with the Chisolm Trail Mural Building in the background, one of Fort Worth’s most photographed spots (chapter 5).

A look at life inside the International Space Station in the interactive Living in Space exhibit at NASA’s Space Center Houston (p. 157).

The state’s largest city, Houston has a gleaming downtown skyline pillowed in green parkland. See chapter 6.

Look closely at the photomosaic of Jackie Kennedy—it's made up of 50,000 photos of President Kennedy. It's in Dallas’s Sixth Floor Museum at Dealey Plaza (p. 65), site of President Kennedy’s assassination in 1963.

Texas Outdoors

An old-fashioned ride at the annual State Fair in Dallas’s Fair Park (chapter 4).

Prickly pear cactus blooming in the desert scrub at Big Bend National Park (chapter 11).

Roseate spoonbills in their natural habitat on South Padre Island (p. 228).

An endangered Kemp’s Ridley sea turtle crawls along the sand dunes of Padre Island National Seashore (p. 224) after laying a clutch of eggs on the beach.

Balanced Rock at Big Bend National Park (chapter 11).

Horseback riders in the lush Hill Country landscape near San Antonio (p. 284).

Port Isabel Lighthouse (p. 229) on South Padre Island.

Whooping crane and a crab at Aransas National Wildlife Refuge (p. 215).

Hitting the beach on horseback at South Padre Island. See chapter 7.

Artist Donald Judd was inspired by the high desert landscape of Marfa (chapter 10), and his concrete art—15 untitled concrete blocks from the early 1980s—makes a bold statement against Marfa’s big-sky terrain.

Sunrise over a carpet of ocotillo blooms in Big Bend National Park (chapter 11).

Quintessential Texas

Put your own artistic stamp on Cadillac Ranch, a junk-car public sculpture in an old cow pasture in Amarillo, where graffiti is encouraged (p. 425).

A cowboy pauses at the Starlight Theatre (p. 405), a restaurant and saloon in the ghost town and former Wild West outpost of Terlingua.

With an image of the Alamo licked by flames, a Texas flag, and Remember the Alamo stitched on the back, these boots may be the ultimate Texas souvenir.

Texas bluebonnets in a field at sunset in Muleshoe Bend Recreation Area, near Austin.

Two-stepping at Gilley’s (p. 105), the quintessential country dancehall, made famous in Urban Cowboy.

Cowboy roping longhorn cows near San Antonio.

Live rodeo is the weekend action in the Cowtown Coliseum in the Fort Worth Stockyards (chapter 5).

Men and women in colorful Mexican-cowboy dress compete in a charreada (Mexican rodeo) in San Antonio.

1

The Best of Texas

Y ou ask me what I like about Texas, sings Austin singer/songwriter Gary P. Nunn, and the lyrics of that old Texas tune list a lot of the things locals love best about the Lone Star State, such as body surfing the Frio, Saturday night in Del Rio, stories of the Menger Hotel and the Alamo. Many of the things mentioned in that song made the cut as I compiled a list of favorite Texas experiences, destinations, and services. But since it’s such a great big state, I added even more, for I wouldn’t want you to miss the best parts as I help you plan your own Texas travels. There’s more to like about Texas than any one book can show, so explore it on your own to create your own best-of list, and before long you’ll be singing your favorite Texas song.

The best Lone Star Experiences

bull.jpg Hopping Aboard the Grapevine Vintage Railroad: The Old West comes alive aboard the Tarantula Railroad. A vintage train (when running, a restored 1896 steam locomotive called Puffy by locals) rumbles along the track from Stockyards Station in Fort Worth, tracing the route of the Chisholm Trail, to the Cotton Belt Depot in historic Grapevine, Texas, a town with 75 restored turn-of-the-20th-century buildings. See p. 120.

bull.jpg Lassoing the Fort Worth Stock Show & Rodeo: Fort Worth ain’t called Cowtown for nothing. In late January and early February, the Southwestern Exposition and Livestock Show (as it’s officially called) recalls the glory cowboy days with horse shows, auctions, and livestock from beef cattle to llamas to swine. The nightly rodeos are big draws. See p. 122.

bull.jpg Attending a Mariachi Mass at Mission San José: The Alamo may be more famous, but hearing a congregation of San Antonians raise their voices in spirited prayer reminds you that the city’s Spanish missions aren’t just, well, history. See p. 246.

bull.jpg Tubing on the River and Two-Stepping at Gruene Hall: In central Texas, upstream from the town of Gruene, is a stretch of the Guadalupe River that Texans love to float down leisurely like in inner tubes (one tube per person and one for the ice chest). During late spring and early summer, the air is hot, the water is cold, and the tuber finds life most agreeable. There is no shortage of outfitters who can set you up with a tube. Then dry off and head up the hill to hear live music at Texas’s oldest dancehall, Gruene Hall, just outside New Braunfels. See p. 344.

bull.jpg Exploring the Borderlands: The Texas-Mexico border stretches for nearly 800 miles, and the Rio Grande from the Gulf of Mexico to El Paso is a fascinating region. We are big fans of Ciudad Acuña, across the river from Del Rio, and the amazing canyons in Big Bend National Park, but the entire borderlands region is more attractive and diverse than most visitors realize. See chapters 10 and 11.

bull.jpg Exploring Big Bend National Park: Vast and wild, this rugged terrain harbors thousands of species of plants and animals—some seen practically nowhere else on earth. A visit can include a hike into the sunbaked desert, a float down a majestic river through the canyons, or a trek among high mountains where bears and mountain lions rule. See Big Bend National Park in chapter 11.

bull.jpg Strolling along the San Antonio River Walk, Taking a Rio Taxi to Pearl, and Remembering the Alamo: The quintessential San Antonio experience is a nighttime walk over arched stone bridges and along slender passageways along the Paseo del Rio, or River Walk, which wends through downtown San Antonio. Then head over to the Alamo, in the city center, where the story of Texas independence found its battle cry. After that, take a Rio Taxi ride through the lock and dam section of the Museum Reach of the San Antonio River, and pass beneath the art installations hung from bridges and overpasses en route to Pearl, the city’s culinary epicenter. See p. 241.

The best Museums

bull.jpg George W. Bush Presidential Library and Museum (Dallas): Standing on the Southern Methodist University campus just north of downtown, Texas’s second presidential library (LBJ’s is on the University of Texas at Austin campus) opened in April of 2013. Sprawling over a 207,000-square-foot area, it is the second-largest presidential library and, naturally, is filled with exhibits geared toward making a somewhat controversial president seem more sympathetic. See p. 71.

bull.jpg Nasher Sculpture Center (Dallas): This world-class collection of modern sculpture is in the downtown Dallas Arts District. Ray Nasher and his wife, Patsy, spent 4 decades assembling what has been called the finest private collection in the world, including superlative works by Miró, David Smith, Brancuşi, Moore, Giacometti, Picasso, Matisse, and Calder. Designed by Renzo Piano, it has a gorgeous open-air sculpture garden with landscape design by Peter Walker. See p. 68.

bull.jpg Meadows Museum of Art (Dallas): In a building with plenty of room to show off the greatest collection of Spanish masters outside Spain, the Meadows was built by a Dallas oilman fascinated with Spanish art. The museum proudly displays a wealth of works by Velázquez, Goya, Ribera, Murillo, Zurbarán—just about all the biggies from Spain’s golden era—as well as the 20th-century masters Picasso, Dalí, and Miró. See p. 73.

bull.jpg Perot Museum of Nature and Science (Dallas): Located in downtown Dallas’s Victory Park, this flashy museum, opened in December 2012, is a world of wonder, as The Dallas Morning News calls it, with hands-on interactive exhibits on science, math, technology, and nature, making it a favorite of schoolchildren. See p. 69.

bull.jpg Kimbell Art Museum (Fort Worth): Probably the country’s finest small museum, this masterwork by Louis Kahn is a joyous celebration of architecture and a splendid collection of art to boot. Kahn’s graceful building, a wonder of technology and natural light, is now a chapter in architectural studies worldwide. The small permanent collection ranges from prehistoric Asian and pre-Columbian pieces to European old masters, Impressionists, and modern geniuses. The Kimbell also gets some of the world’s most important traveling shows. See p. 122.

bull.jpg Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth (Fort Worth): In a modernist building designed by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, the Modern—actually the oldest art museum in Texas—is the nation’s second largest dedicated to contemporary and modern art. The permanent collection includes works by Picasso, Rothko, Warhol, Rauschenberg, and Pollock. See p. 123.

bull.jpg Amon Carter Museum of American Art (Fort Worth): This museum has one of the finest collections of Western and American art in the country, including the most complete group of works by Frederic Remington and Charles M. Russell, two giants of Western art. It also has a great photography collection and important paintings by Georgia O’Keeffe. See p. 120.

bull.jpg Menil Collection (Houston): One of the great private collections in the world could very well have ended up in Paris or New York, but was graciously bestowed by the collectors on their adopted city. To experience the Menil is pure delight; very little comes between the viewer and the art, which includes works by many 20th-century masters, classical works from the ancients, and tribal art from around the world. See p. 159.

bull.jpg The Briscoe Western Art Museum (San Antonio): Named in honor of the late Texas governor Dolph Briscoe, Jr., and his wife, Janey, this museum, edging the San Antonio River Walk, honors the art, history, and culture of the American West through exhibitions, educational programs, and public events. Housed in a building that once was San Antonio’s first public library (and later a circus museum), this attractive museum features a pavilion designed by the nationally recognized architecture firm Lake Flato, as well as an inviting sculpture garden. See p. 242.

bull.jpg San Antonio Museum of Art (San Antonio): Almost as impressive for its architecture as for its holdings, this museum combines several castle-like buildings of the 1904 Lone Star Brewery. The Nelson A. Rockefeller Center for Latin American Art is the most comprehensive collection of its kind in the United States. See p. 244.

bull.jpg Marion Koogler McNay Art Museum (San Antonio): A beautiful collection beautifully located and displayed. This small museum is a delight to visit, especially for fans of modern art, who will devour its collection of works by the modern masters. We love it for its architecture. See p. 245.

bull.jpg Elisabet Ney Museum (Austin): This tiny museum in the Hyde Park neighborhood just north of the UT Campus was once the studio of a fabulous sculptress. Tucked away in the trees by a creek, this is where I love to spend a rainy Austin morning. See p. 301.

bull.jpg McDonald Observatory (northwest of Fort Davis): This observatory is considered one of the world’s best astronomical research facilities. Twice a day, visitors can glimpse sunspots, flares, and other solar activity. Nighttime Star Parties are held three evenings a week, during which visitors can view constellations and celestial objects through the observatory’s high-powered telescopes. See p. 365

bull.jpg National Museum of the Pacific War (Fredericksburg): This world-class museum, set in the small town of Fredericksburg in the Hill Country, grew from its humble beginnings as a small museum in the boyhood home of Fleet Admiral Chester W. Nimitz, who served as Commander in Chief of the United States Pacific Fleet during World War II. Today this 6-acre site is home to the only institution in the U.S. dedicated exclusively to telling the story of the Pacific and Asiatic theaters in World War II. See p. 339.

bull.jpg LHUCA: Louise Hopkins Underwood Center for the Arts (Lubbock): This fantastic little world-class art center and museum put the Lubbock art scene on the map. See p. 434.

The best of Natural Texas

bull.jpg The Dallas Arboretum & Botanical Garden: Who knew Dallas had more than dust, concrete, steel, and glass? This surprising oasis on the edge of White Rock Lake is a great spot to duck the Texas sun. Relax on 70 acres of groomed gardens and natural woodlands, interspersed with a handful of historic homes. The gardens are especially colorful in spring and fall. See p. 69.

bull.jpg Fort Worth Botanic Garden: A rambling, spacious showcase of 2,500 native and exotic species of plants on 100-plus acres, this is the oldest botanical garden in Texas, created back in the late 1920s. The Texas Rose Garden, with 3,500 roses that bloom in late April and October, and the beautiful Japanese Garden are terrific places to hide out from the world. Bring a picnic, a book, and a Frisbee. See p. 121.

bull.jpg Big Thicket National Preserve: It has been called the American Ark for its incredibly rich variety of plants and wildlife, all packed into 100,000 acres of watery bottomland in deepest east Texas. Explore the area on foot or in a canoe, and see how the woods grow so thickly here that they all but blot out the sun and make trailblazing almost impossible. See Side Trips to East Texas in chapter 6.

bull.jpg Aransas National Wildlife Refuge: A mecca for birders, with some 300 species sighted here, the refuge is also home to snakes, turtles, lizards, mammals, and a variety of frogs and other amphibians. Aransas has become famous for being the main winter home of the near-extinct whooping crane, the tallest bird in America—5 feet high with an 8-foot wingspan. See Rockport in chapter 7.

bull.jpg Mustang Island State Park: This barrier island has more than 5 miles of wide, sandy beach, with fine sand, few rocks, and broken shells, and almost enough waves for surfing. One of the most popular of Texas state parks, it’s especially busy on summer weekends. See Port Aransas in chapter 7.

bull.jpg Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center: Few people remember that Lady Bird Johnson started the program to beautify America’s highways—and she began practicing it right here in her home state. This flower-powered research center is a natural outgrowth of the First Lady’s lifelong efforts to beautify the state. See p. 296.

bull.jpg McKittrick Canyon: The canyon is forested with conifers and deciduous trees. In autumn, maples, oaks, and other hardwoods burst into color, painting the world in bright hues set off by the rich variety of the evergreens. See Guadalupe Mountains National Park in chapter 11.

bull.jpg Palo Duro Canyon State Park: This 60-mile canyon, sculpted by the Prairie Dog Town Fork of the Red River over the past 90 million years, is a grand contrast to the ubiquitous, treeless plains of the Texas Panhandle. Its 800-foot cliffs, striped with orange, red, and white rock and adorned by groves of juniper and cottonwood trees, present an astoundingly stark beauty. See Canyon & Palo Duro Canyon State Park in chapter 12.

bull.jpg The Canyons on the Rio Grande: Santa Elena, Boquillas, and Mariscal canyons in Big Bend National Park and Colorado Canyon in Big Bend Ranch State Park have some of the state’s best scenery, an unparalleled blend of rock, air, and sky. See River Running in chapter 11.

The best Historical Attractions

bull.jpg The Sixth Floor Museum at Dealey Plaza (Dallas): The events of November 22, 1963, shook the world. John F. Kennedy’s assassination in Dallas is remembered by everyone old enough to remember, and argued over still. Visitors can tour the sixth floor of the Texas School Book Depository, from where the Warren Commission concluded that a single sniper, Lee Harvey Oswald, felled the president. The museum also examines the life, times, and legacy of the Kennedy presidency, making it a place to revisit not only the assassination but also an era. See p. 65.

bull.jpg The Stockyards National Historic District (Fort Worth): Still looking the part, this area north of downtown was once the biggest and busiest cattle, horse, mule, hog, and sheep marketing center in the Southwest. Put on your boots and best Western shirt and tour the Livestock Exchange Building; Cowtown Coliseum (the world’s first indoor rodeo arena); former hog and sheep pens now filled with Western shops and restaurants; and Billy Bob’s Texas, the world’s largest honky-tonk. Then grab a longneck beer at the White Elephant saloon—the oldest bar in Fort Worth and the site of the city’s most famous gunfight in 1897—and check in at the historic Stockyards Hotel. Finally, check out the longhorn cattle drive that rumbles down Exchange Avenue daily—or take the Vintage Train into Grapevine. See chapter 5.

bull.jpg The Alamo (San Antonio): It’s smaller than you might expect, and resides smack in the heart of downtown San Antonio. But the graceful mission church that’s come to symbolize the state is a must-see, if only to learn what the fuss is all about. See p. 241.

bull.jpg San Jacinto Monument (Houston): Here on the battlefield of San Jacinto, a small army of Texans led by General Sam Houston charged the much larger, better equipped Mexican army and dealt them a crushing blow. The victory gave Texas its independence. A monument and museum occupy the battlefield to honor and explain the history of the battle and its significance. See p. 155.

bull.jpg USS Lexington Museum on the Bay (Corpus Christi): Exploring this huge World War II–era aircraft carrier offers civilians the opportunity to get an idea of what it was like to live in the claustrophobic conditions of such a limited space. In addition to sleeping, dining, and cooking areas, the ship provided a hospital, a rec room, and, numerous working areas. See p. 210.

bull.jpg San Antonio Missions National Historical Park (San Antonio): It’s impossible not to remember the Alamo when you’re in San Antonio; more difficult is recalling that the Alamo was originally just the first of five missions established by the Franciscans along the San Antonio River. Exploring the other four missions that make up this national park, now Texas’s only UNESCO World Heritage Site, built uncharacteristically close to each other, provides an immersion in the city’s early Spanish and Indian history. See p. 246.

bull.jpg State Capitol (Austin): The country’s largest state capitol building, second only in size to the U.S. Capitol—but 7 feet taller—underwent a massive renovation and expansion in the 1990s, which left it more impressive than ever. See p. 294.

bull.jpg El Paso Mission Trail (El Paso): Established in the 17th and 18th centuries, these three historic Spanish missions provide a link to El Paso’s colonial past. They are among the oldest continually active missions in the country and warrant a visit for their architectural and historic merit. Especially impressive is the large Presidio Chapel San Elceario, near the site of The First Thanksgiving, said to have taken place in 1598, 23 years before the Plymouth Thanksgiving. See p. 352.

The best Family Adventures

bull.jpg The Stockyards (Fort Worth): Far from a dry old historic district, the Stockyards are alive with the flavor of the Old West. Kids will adore the twice-daily cattle drive of the Fort Worth Herd, which rumbles down the cobbled main drag, led by cowhands in 19th-century duds. They’ll also love to find their way around the Cowtown Cattlepen Maze, a human maze made to look like old cattle pens. See What to See & Do in chapter 5.

bull.jpg Fort Worth’s Children’s Museums (Fort Worth): The Fort Worth Museum of Science and History is large and multifaceted, with a domed IMAX theater, a planetarium, and great hands-on science displays. The National Cowgirl Museum and Hall of Fame teaches little cowgirls and cowboys about pioneering women of the American West, but in a way that really brings the culture to life: Jukeboxes pump out country tunes, and kids can ride a simulated bucking bronco, see the film of their adventure on the museum’s website, and get their pictures superimposed on Old West film posters. The Fort Worth Zoo is one of the best in the country. See What to See & Do in chapter 5.

bull.jpg Arlington: Sandwiched between Dallas and Fort Worth is a kids’ suburban dream world: Stumble from the roller coasters at Six Flags Over Texas to the water slides at Hurricane Harbor, visit Ripley’s Believe It or Not and the Palace of Wax, and catch a game at the Texas Rangers’ ballpark. See Arlington in chapter 4.

bull.jpg Space Center Houston (Houston): Always the most popular attraction in the city, NASA’s Space Center Houston is a joint effort powered by NASA technology and Disney know-how. It is the epitome of interactive display and simulation, managing to fascinate kids and parents alike. During your visit, check out what’s going on at the Johnson Space Center through a tram ride and video feeds. See p. 157.

bull.jpg The Gulf Side of South Padre Island: Fine white sand and warm water lapping at your toes—what more do you want? Although the shore is lined with hotels and condos, the beaches are public and open to everyone. See Padre Island National Seashore, in chapter 7.

bull.jpg Six Flags Fiesta Texas (San Antonio): Major thrill rides, a huge swimming pool shaped like Texas, and entertainment/food areas with Texas history themes—there’s something for every family member at this theme park, and it’s even slightly educational. See p. 248.

bull.jpg The Austin Bats (Austin): Most adults and kids tend to finds bats a bit creepy—until they learn more about them, that is. From March to November, you can watch thousands of bats emerge in smoky clouds from under the Ann W. Richards Congress Avenue Bridge—and find out why Austinites adore the little critters. See Going Batty on p. 295.

bull.jpg Balmorhea State Park (Balmorhea): This is one of the crown jewels of the Texas state parks system and also, at 45 acres, one of the smallest. The main attraction is a massive 13⁄4-acre swimming pool—3.5 million gallons of water at a fairly constant 74°F (23°C). Not your typical swimming pool, it’s teeming with small fish and laden with rocks. Swimming, snorkeling, and scuba diving are all popular. At a reconstructed cienega (desert wetland) you may spot native wildlife such as a Texas spiny soft-shell turtle, a blotched water snake, or a green heron. See p. 367.

The best Luxury & Historic Hotels

bull.jpg The Adolphus Hotel (Dallas): Looking spiffier than ever after a 2016 renovation, this elegant old-school downtown hotel has been a favorite of Dallasites and well-to-do travelers for more than a century. Still, room rates can sometimes be as low as those of far lesser hotels, making an unforgettable Dallas stay at the Adolphus an excellent value for your travel dollar. A landmark Beaux Arts hotel built in 1912 by beer baron Adolphus Busch, the Adolphus is known for its Palm Court–style lobby; warm wood parlors; and fabulous French Room (undergoing renovations at press time), one of Big D’s best restaurants. Rooms are spacious and contemporary, and the location is sublime. Be sure to mosey on over to the hotel’s casual Rodeo Bar and Grill at street level, with cowboy-kitsch decor and delicious hamburgers. See p. 78.

bull.jpg Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek (Dallas): Repeatedly named one of the top five hotels in the United States, this beautiful, high-end hotel in a prime central location draws movie stars, princes, presidents, and luxury mavens. Formerly the grand estate of a cotton magnate in the 1920s and ’30s, the Mansion is refined and supremely elegant throughout, with service to match. The revamped restaurant has again vaulted to the top of the heap and is worth a visit even if you haven’t snagged a stay. See p. 84.

bull.jpg Le Méridien Dallas, The Stoneleigh (Dallas): A spectacular updating of a landmark 1923 Dallas fixture, this swank Uptown Art Deco hotel, with richly colored rooms, feels more like an intimate boutique hotel than a large, impersonal business hotel. The Stoneleigh Bar and upstairs penthouse, occupying an entire floor, drip with style. See p. 86.

bull.jpg Omni Fort Worth Hotel (Fort Worth): For a taste of progressive Texas luxury, this popular downtown hotel features grand public rooms, a great spa, a rooftop terrace pool and bar, and Bob’s Steak & Chop House onsite. The views from the upper floors are some of the best in town. See p. 129.

bull.jpg Stockyards Hotel (Fort Worth): Over-the-top luxury would be gauche in the old Stockyards, so this comfortable and authentic slice of the Old West qualifies as a Fort Worth indulgence: cowboy luxury. Outlaws on the run, cowpokes and their madams, and the country-western elite have all propped up their boots here. Cowtown’s cattle-ranching and railroad past are effortlessly evoked in the rooms, each of which is different. See p. 127.

bull.jpg Four Seasons Hotel Houston (Houston): With lots of space to stretch out in and plenty of amenities so you don’t have to stretch too far, this hotel offers some of the best services in town. Within a few blocks are the baseball park, the basketball arena, a shopping mall, and the convention center—and just a bit beyond are the city’s art district and theater and nightlife hubs. See p. 166.

bull.jpg Hotel Derek (Houston): Here is one of the most comfortable and fun places to stay in Houston’s highly popular Uptown/Galleria area. The Derek offers a rare combination of practicality and style, making it a perfect choice for the business traveler or the vacation shopper. Service is smooth, and there’s always something happening there. See p. 173.

bull.jpg The Lancaster (Houston): Personal service, charming rooms, and a great location are the keys to this hotel’s success. If there’s one hotel that makes having a car unnecessary in Houston, this is it. Within easy walking distance are the symphony, the opera, three theaters, the ballet, and several restaurants and clubs. See p. 167.

bull.jpg Omni Corpus Christi Hotel (Corpus Christi): The two towers of the Omni overlook Corpus Christi Bay, and the floor-to-ceiling windows of the 20-story Bayfront Tower afford spectacular views of the Gulf, particularly from its upper floors. Pamper yourself with a massage from the in-house massage therapist or relax in the whirlpool. See p. 212.

bull.jpg Isla Grand Beach Resort (South Padre Island): From the high-ceilinged lobby to the beautiful landscaping around the swimming pools, this resort spells luxury. Many rooms have grand views of the ocean. See p. 232.

bull.jpg Omni La Mansión del Río (San Antonio): Occupying what was once a Catholic seminary, this hotel, standing just behind the Majestic Theatre, was built in the style of a gracious Mexican hacienda, with arresting architectural features and elegant balconies. With a wide frontage along one of the most popular stretches of the River Walk, this is one of the best hotels for those who want an authentic, uniquely San Antonio experience. Celebrities who play the Majestic often stay here so they can slip in and out of a backstage door facing the hotel. See p. 259.

bull.jpg Mokara Hotel & Spa (San Antonio): If relaxation and pampering are what you seek, the Mokara should be your choice. From the moment you step into the lobby, everything is taken care of effortlessly. Stay in a second-floor room and wear a robe for easy access to the hotel spa—arguably the best in the city. The hotel has a great location overlooking the River Walk, but the rooms are so attractive and comfortable, the service so personal, and the spa so easy to enjoy that you may never want to leave. See p. 259.

bull.jpg Hotel Emma (San Antonio): Arguably the most interesting and exciting new hotel in Texas, Hotel Emma opened in November 2015 inside the 1918 brewhouse of the Pearl Brewery complex. It’s the work of the same firm that revamped New York’s High Line Hotel. With an aesthetic that is industrial, masculine, and Texan (but still a big hit with the ladies), this hotel is more urban than cowboy and really wows and woos guests, especially in its Sternewirth bar and clubroom set just off the lobby. Emma is home to the restaurant Supper and a gourmet market bistro, Larder, and a culinary concierge is on site to help guests navigate the local food scene. Set at the end of the Museum Reach section of the River Walk in the happening Pearl district, this is where to stay if you can afford to splurge. See p. 263.

bull.jpg The St. Anthony Hotel (San Antonio): Old-school elegance (think oversize chandeliers and marble columns) meets a thoroughly modern 2015 renovation at this grand dame in downtown San Antonio, headquarters of many Fiesta festivities and balls each spring. With a rooftop pool, a prime location, and a remarkable restaurant, Rebelle, this swank old hotel bewitches guests with its romantic vibe. See p. 260.

bull.jpg The Driskill Hotel (Austin): If you want to play cattle baron for a day or two, you can’t do better than a stay in this opulent 1886 hotel, restored to its glory at the end of the 20th century. The Driskill Grill is one of Austin’s most romantic restaurants. See p. 299.

bull.jpg South Congress Hotel (Austin): In the heart of Austin’s popular SoCo district, close to clubs like the Continental, shops like Lucy in Disguise, and good eats like Botticelli’s, this newish Austin hotel (opened winter 2015) is the hottest spot in town. Sleek, minimalist mid-century–style interiors, hardwood floors, custom furnishings, and pillow-top beds layered with bespoke Mateo linens, the South Congress is trendy and modern but comfortable and oh so SoCo, too. See p. 315.

bull.jpg Lake Austin Spa Resort (Austin): This spa resort has been selected as the best destination spa in the country by the readers of Condé Nast Traveler, and nothing spells luxury better than the pampering spa treatments for which this place is known. But you can also find it in the beauty and serenity that surround the place. The guest rooms are not the draw here as much as the resort’s riverside location, the pools, the classes and services, and the sublime spa. Set far from downtown, this place is a real retreat. See p. 317.

bull.jpg Cíbolo Creek Ranch (Shafter): Tucked under the Chinati Mountains in some of the most wide-open country in all of Texas, about 40 miles from Marfa, this is a getaway for the most special of occasions, and accordingly priced (it’s famously where Justice Antonin Scalia shuffled off this mortal coil). The idyllic setting plays host today to a first-class resort, featuring beautiful guest rooms with red-tile floors, adobe walls, and sumptuous border decor. The recreational opportunities are as impressive as the scenery. See p. 370.

bull.jpg Gage Hotel (Marathon): Located 50 miles north of Big Bend National Park, the historic Gage Hotel opened in 1927 as a social hub for area ranchers and miners, but fell into shambles under the desert sun in the ensuing decades. But that period is long over: The current owners restored the old redbrick’s many charms in the early 1980s, melding history and an eye for classic Western style. The historic rooms have cowhide rugs, hardwood floors, Navajo blankets, and charming Old West panache. With a large outdoor courtyard, intimate fire pits, a fine restaurant with a sprawling patio, and family-sized luxury casitas, the Gage is legendary among Texans, many of whom say it’s their favorite place to stay in West Texas or when trekking to Big Bend National Park. See p. 404.

The best Bed & Breakfasts & Boutique Hotels

bull.jpg Hôtel St. Germain (Dallas): Ever wanted to stay with your spouse at a plush bordello? This intimate boutique hotel with its elegant, prix-fixe restaurant is about as close as you’ll come to that fantasy. A gorgeous mix of early-20th-century France and New Orleans, the seven suites are so swank, with such pampering features as wood-burning fireplaces, draped Napoléon sleigh beds, bidets, and soaking tubs, you may never want to leave your room. See p. 83.

bull.jpg Sinya on Lone Man Creek (Wimberley): Glamping comes to Texas, and we absolutely love it. An authentic tented African safari suite set high on a bluff overlooking a creek, with a king-size bed, two decks, a living area, a full bathroom, hot tub, outdoor shower and more, Sinya is the most romantic and unusual lodging I’ve seen since my last luxury safari in Kenya. Reserve this place right now, if you can—it stays solidly booked year-round. See p. 262.

bull.jpg The Ashton Hotel (Fort Worth): Just off Sundance Square, this boutique hotel—one of Fort Worth’s only small luxury hotels—offers plush rooms and smooth service, as well as one of the best restaurants in north Texas: Six 10 Grille. See p. 129.

bull.jpg Settlers Crossing (Fredericksburg): Just 5 miles outside of the popular Hill Country hamlet of Fredericksburg, and just up the road from the famous ghost town/tourist draw of Luckenbach, this enchanting 35-acre property features seven individual Pennsylvania Dutch–style cottages, log homes, and historic farmhouses, most with fireplaces, and all with the comforts of home in German Sunday Haus bed-and-breakfast style. See p. 340.

bull.jpg Trois Estate at Enchanted Rock (Fredericksburg): About 16 miles from Main Street, Fredericksburg, this San Miguel Allende–inspired bed-and-breakfast feels like a small, quiet Santa Fe–style village tucked away in the hills, complete with a wedding chapel and underground grotto, a cap-gun museum, saloon, suites, and more. It’s unusual, to be sure, and so Texan, of course, but it’s also utterly enchanting—as are its views of the pink-marble majesty of Enchanted Rock. See p. 339.

bull.jpg Kimber Modern (Austin): Nothing looks sharper than modern design brilliantly set in natural surroundings. It makes the common terrace of this small hotel an uncommonly beautiful place to linger on a lazy afternoon. Sparse/minimalist, trendy, and clean-lined—this mod little B&B is set on a quiet neighborhood street just behind the Continental Club and the busy boulevard of South Congress Avenue. See p. 314.

bull.jpg Hotel Saint Cecilia (Austin): This oh-so-trendy hotel hidden under massive oak tress just off South Congress Avenue captures the feel for what’s fun about the Austin scene. It also takes comfort to an entirely new level: Sleep deeply on a handmade Swedish mattress; greet the morning with your favorite crepes; lounge on your own private deck or patio; or spin some vinyl on your in-room turntable. Stay in the main house, unless you prefer a stark mid-century bungalow instead. Some guests say they’ve sensed a hipper-than-thou vibe here from management, and the rates are sky-high, but I’d still stay here if I wanted to splurge. See p. 313.

bull.jpg Havana Hotel (San Antonio): Tucked away on a quiet stretch of the River Walk is a fabulous old house turned hipster hotel with a terrace restaurant and bar, Ocho, upstairs and a dark speakeasy-style bar below street level. I adore the vibe at this best-kept-secret hotel of Austin hotelier Liz Lambert, known for her distinctive design aesthetic at Hotel San Jose and the St. Cecelia off Austin’s hot SoCo strip. See p. 260.

The best Hotel Bargains

bull.jpg Belmont Hotel (Dallas): Dallas usually goes gaga over mirrored glass and brand-spanking-new buildings, so it’s a refreshing change to find this vintage 1940s motor lodge in Oak Cliff transformed into a funky, retro boutique hotel. With its lounge bar and midcentury-modern decor, it’s a dollop of Palm Springs with the attitude of Austin and views of the Dallas skyline—all at affordable rates. See p. 82.

bull.jpg Hyatt House Dallas, Lincoln Park (Dallas): This straightforward, residential-style hotel, formerly known as Hyatt Summerfield Suites, primarily targets businesspeople, but it’s also a good value for families. The spacious suites have fully equipped kitchens, and the hotel has a pool, a small spa, and an exercise room. See p. 88.

bull.jpg Riverwalk Vista (San Antonio): I like to think I discovered this place—it’s a gem hidden in plain sight right near the River Walk’s Commerce Street bridge. Picture Restoration Hardware–style furnishings, tall ceilings, wood floors, exposed brick, fast Wi-Fi, strong coffee, and a great location—all for a surprisingly good rate. See p. 261.

bull.jpg Austin Motel (Austin): Look for the catchy So Close Yet So Far Out sign in Austin’s hip SoCo area. The rooms of this old motel have been individually furnished, many in fun and funky styles, but the place retains its 1950s character and its lower-than-modern-day prices. See p. 316.

bull.jpg Park Plaza Hotel (Seguin): Just 35 miles from San Antonio, this small-town hotel on an old downtown central park square offers the best rates of any hotel of its kind, yet delivers a contemporary, big-city–style experience. A fresh new hotel in a historic building, this is a good little getaway if you want to venture outside Austin or San Antonio and see a bit more of the area between the two. See p. 283.

The best Restaurants

bull.jpg Fearing’s (Dallas): Cowboy-boot-clad chef Dean Fearing made his name as an innovator of Southwestern cuisine at the Mansion on Turtle Creek, but in 2007, he opened his own place in the swanky Ritz-Carlton in Dallas’s Uptown. Since its opening, Fearing’s has been named Restaurant of the Year and Table of the Year by Esquire magazine, and #1 in Hotel Dining in the U.S. by Zagat. See p. 93.

bull.jpg Flora Street Cafe (Dallas): Dallas’s other celebrity chef in boots, the man who created the legendary Star Canyon, Stephan Pyles closed his namesake restaurant so he could concentrate on opening this new, exciting eatery in the Arts District, celebrating what he calls elevated Texas cuisine. See p. 90.

bull.jpg Cured (San Antonio): This charcuterie-board–driven gastropub with house-cured meats and a happening bar scene is our favorite restaurant in San Antonio’s popular Pearl culinary district. Chef Steve McHugh is a recent James Beard nominee for Best Chef Southwest, and though the title eluded him this year, all bets are on him next time. See p. 272.

bull.jpg Cafe Annie (Houston): No other restaurant in Houston garners the attention that this place does from foodies and food critics alike. With innovative Southwestern cooking, the best wine list in the city, and a master sommelier (the only master in Texas), the restaurant has plenty of credentials. Chef/owner Robert Del Grande offers up wonderful dishes that show just how fertile the crossbreeding of Mexican and American cooking can be. See p. 187.

bull.jpg Uchi (Austin): Don’t think of Uchi as just a good place for sushi and Japanese cuisine; it’s a great restaurant, period, with creative cooking that transcends its humble roots. Foodies nationwide know it as the best restaurant in Austin (though you could argue there are others as good). Still, this chic, expensive restaurant, set a revamped 1930s house, is always noisy and crowded, a popular spot because it’s always so good. See p. 324.

bull.jpg Café J (Lubbock): Who knew Lubbock had such fabulous fine dining? Café J and its Blue Martini Lounge have cuisine to rival the best eateries in Houston and Dallas, with seasonal farm-to-fork fare and clever craft libations. A favorite of Red Raider alums and visiting parents, this quiet, art-filled restaurant sits directly across the street from the sprawling Texas Tech campus. See p. 438.

bull.jpg Café Central (El Paso): Well worth the splurge, Café Central is a sleek urban bistro serving sophisticated international cuisine. The menu changes daily but always offers a wide range of standout fare—most notably creative Southwestern interpretations of traditional Continental dishes. The wine list is one of the city’s best, and desserts include the best tres leches (Mexican milk cakes) in all of Texas. See p. 360.

The best Texan Dining

bull.jpg Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse (Dallas): Sonny Bryan’s has been turning out sweet barbecue since 1910, and the little smoke shack has acquired legendary status. Salesmen perch on their car hoods with their sleeves rolled up and wolf down hickory-smoked brisket, sliced-beef sandwiches, and succulent onion rings. Thinner sorts squeeze into tiny one-armed school desks and get ready to douse their brisket with superb, tangy sauce. A classic. See p. 98.

bull.jpg Lonesome Dove Western Bistro (Fort Worth): This friendly and eclectic restaurant challenges Cowtown to broaden its horizons. The Southwestern menu at this Stockyards eatery successfully stretches the popular theme in new ways, adding unique Texas touches that are both avant-garde and comforting. Pop in for the inexpensive Stockyards lunch special or dive into a blowout dinner. See p. 133.

bull.jpg Mi Tierra (San Antonio): Some people dismiss this cafe as touristy. Not so. It is the practitioner of old San Antonio cooking traditions. Order any of the Tex-Mex specialties and sit back and enjoy the ambience—both the food and the decor are expressions of local tastes when celebrating is called for, and this gem is worth celebrating. Open 24 hours, it’s just as good at midnight as it is at noon. Better, maybe. See p. 269.

bull.jpg La Gloria (San Antonio): Owner/chef Johnny Hernandez is kind of a big deal in these parts, with eight restaurants and counting, a catering business, and new eateries in Las Vegas and London—as well as in some Texas airports. Still, San Antonio’s favorite native son is the nicest guy, and his Mexican street food cuisine makes for an affordable meal with exciting, multilayered flavors. His El Machito restaurant and Fruteria are also good, but La Gloria is heavenly. See p. 273.

bull.jpg The Broken Spoke (Austin): Best known as the quintessential Texas dancehall, the Broken Spoke is also a great place for a down-home dinner of chicken-fried steak, burgers, fries, and more. Don’t dare leave Austin without having at least one cold longneck here and checking out the tourist trap museum room just off the bar. See p. 336.

bull.jpg Franklin Barbecue (Austin): Possibly the most famous name in Texas barbecue is Franklin. Named the James Beard Best Chef Southwest in 2015, Austin’s Aaron Franklin seems as surprised by his success as anyone. He and his brick-and-mortar East Side eatery are unpretentious as they come. The loveable, goofy guy who started with a food truck has become a household name among barbecue aficionados, and Austinites consider him a guru of great barbecue. The long lines that snake around his place each day prove folks will wait hours to eat it. See p. 331.

bull.jpg Fiesta Loma Linda (Houston): When the bubble of a perfectly puffed tortilla smothered in chili con queso bursts, anticipation meets realization in the Tex-Mex experience. The aroma, the texture, the taste . . . words fail us. You can scour the borderlands a long time before coming up with an old-fashioned Tex-Mex joint like this one. The restaurant even has its own special tortilla maker for producing these puffed-up beauties. See p. 182.

bull.jpg Gaido’s (Galveston): Proud of its traditional cooking as practiced on the Texas Gulf Coast, Gaidos is the keeper of the flame for seafood devoid of fads and trends. The family has been serving up stuffed snapper, gumbo, and fried oysters for four generations. See p. 207.

bull.jpg La Playa (Port Aransas): This place is in no way connected to La Playa of Corpus Christi (another notable eatery). But the cooking is just as local, with Tex-Mex–style seafood dishes such as campechana cocktails and fish tacos. The margaritas transcend cultures. La Playa has that homey, welcoming feel that is as much Texas as anything else. See p. 213.

bull.jpg Starlight Theatre (Terlingua): A 1930s movie palace abandoned when the mines in Terlingua went bust, the Starlight Theatre was reborn as an eatery and watering hole in 1991. The stage is still here, but the silver screen takes a back seat to the food (especially the trademark chili and filet mignon), drink (namely Texas beers and prickly-pear margaritas), and desserts (including a very good tres leches). If you’re looking for a quirky, cool place to be for New Year’s Eve, this is it. See p. 405.

bull.jpg Triple J Chophouse (Lubbock): Triple J is the kind of place that makes you feel like you’ve really been to Texas. Not just a great brewpub with craft suds, this big, Western-themed restaurant offers chicken-fried steaks, wood-fired pizzas, big fat burgers, and skinny fries. It’s located on the old Main Street on Buddy Holly Avenue, drawing Tech Students and locals alike. See p. 439.

The best Shopping

bull.jpg Neiman Marcus (Dallas): Established in 1907, Neiman Marcus is intimately identified with Big D and its shopaholics. The luxury purveyor’s annual holiday catalog, with his-and-her fantasies for the rich, has become an institution. The downtown store is classy and retro cool, the best place in north Texas to drape yourself in Prada and Chanel. See p. 99.

bull.jpg NorthPark Center (Dallas): Dallas loves to shop, and while the city has more malls than most people (except Dallasites) know what to do with, NorthPark is the most traditional and elegant (even when a 2007 expansion more than doubled its size). The graceful layout outclasses its more garish competitors. Rotating pieces from Ray Nasher’s spectacular collection of modern sculpture are on display throughout. See p. 101.

bull.jpg Stockyards National Historic District (Fort Worth): In Cowtown, looking the part is important. Pick up Western duds—suits and shirts with elegant piping and embroidered yokes that would have made you a star in the Old West, plus cowboy boots and other Western paraphernalia—just steps away from the old Stockyards livestock pens. On the main drag is Maverick, which has upscale Western wear and a bar serving up Lone Star longnecks. M. L. Leddy’s is a family-owned shop with a big boot sign out front and top-quality hats, hand-tooled belts, and custom-made boots. And just down the street, plunk down the cash for exquisite custom cowboy boots at Ponder Boot Company. See chapter 5.

bull.jpg Uptown (Houston): In this relatively small district, you can find Houston’s Galleria (with over 300 retailers, including Saks, Neiman Marcus, Tiffany’s, and Versace) and four other malls fronting Post Oak (with such retailers as Cartier and FAO Schwarz). See Shopping in chapter 6.

bull.jpg El Mercado (San Antonio): You’ll feel as though you’ve stepped across the border into an authentic Mexican market, but really you’re just steps from downtown River Walk attractions at this indoor Mexican exports center with separate vendor booths at Market Square. See p. 277.

bull.jpg Fredericksburg (Texas Hill Country): It’s hard to say how a town founded by German idealists ended up being a magnet for Texas materialists, but Fredericksburg’s main street is chockablock with boutiques. This is the place to come for everything from natural chocolate mint–scented room deodorizer to handmade dulcimers. See p. 338.

bull.jpg Gallery Hopping in the Big Bend (Marfa, Alpine, Marathon, Terlingua): Besides being remote, this is one of the most artsy corners of the state, with a wide range of artists and galleries throughout these small towns. See p. 372.

The best Places for Boot-Scootin’

bull.jpg Adair’s Saloon (Dallas): Deep Ellum’s down-and-dirty honky-tonk is unfazed by the discos, rock clubs, and preppy SMU students in its midst. It sticks with its down-to-earth style, knee-slapping country and redneck rock bands, cheap beer, and tables and walls blanketed in graffiti. See p. 106.

bull.jpg Gilley’s Dallas (Dallas): The original Gilley’s in Pasadena, Texas, where John Travolta famously rode a bucking bronco in Urban Cowboy, no longer stands, but Big D still has a branch of this storied Houston-area honky-tonk. If bigger is better, this one’s right up there with the best of them: It’s got 90,000 square feet of dance floor, bars, and stages, and even if it primarily draws tourists, it’s still a good time. See p. 105.

bull.jpg Billy Bob’s Texas (Fort Worth): Kind of like a big-tent country theme park, Billy Bob’s has it all: 40 bars, a huge dance floor for two-stepping, pro bull riding, and live performances by big names in country music. Of course, it also has free Thursday-night dance lessons: Learn the Schottische or the Cotton-Eyed Joe, and soon you’ll be two-stepping like a Texan. See p. 142.

bull.jpg Texas Hill Country (San Antonio and Austin): South Texas has some of the most wonderful old honky-tonks in the state, and the former ghost town of Gruene, a hopping tourist spot just outside of New Braunfels, has one of the best. The oldest continuously opened country-and-western dance hall in Texas is Gruene Hall, still one of the finest places to listen to music. Another great Texas spot, Arkey Blue’s Silver Dollar Bar is a genuine spit-and-sawdust Hill Country honky-tonk on Bandera’s Main Street. When there’s no live music, plug a quarter in the old jukebox and play a country ballad by owner Arkey. And look for the table where Hank Williams, Sr., carved his name. See the sections on Hill Country Side Trips in chapters 8 and 9.

bull.jpg Broken Spoke (Austin): This is the gen-u-ine item, a Western honky-tonk with a wood-plank floor and a cowboy-hatted, two-steppin’ crowd. Still, it’s in Austin, so don’t be surprised if the band wears Hawaiian shirts, or if tongues are planted firmly in cheeks for some songs. Don’t miss the tourist trap museum room in the back. See p. 336.

2

Texas in Depth

by Janis Turk & Neil Edward Schlecht

Texas looms large in American culture, and Texans are unapologetic in their swaggering embrace of the place they call home. Self-confident and independent almost to a fault, Texas seems to embody all that’s good, bad, and especially big about the United States. The former independent Republic of Texas—which shook off the landlord claims of Spain, Mexico, France, and even the U.S.—has diehards who still wish the second-largest state after Alaska would just hurry up and secede.

Texans don’t seem to mind too much if outsiders get caught up in the myths and clichés about Texas; they’re kind of proud of the rough-and-tumble romance of the state and buy into its mythical Lonesome Dove past. Still, locals know there’s a lot more to love about the Texas they call home. They know a 10-gallon hat doesn’t hold 10 gallons of anything, and Texas isn’t all flat, dry, and featureless, filled with cowboys on the range, oilmen watching backyard gushers spit up black gold, and helmet-haired beauty queens. But it’s hard to compete with the state’s image, the canvas for hundreds of old Western flicks. The big-sky frontier of Texas and the West is the quintessential American landscape, and the mythic cowboy leading his longhorn cattle on drives is a quintessential heroic figure.

Once a separate nation, and today bigger than England and France combined, Texas is a place that dreams big and walks tall. The history of Texas is laced with events and heroes large and legendary, many of which have been catapulted into national lore. In many ways, Texas has come to symbolize the nation’s westward expansion, its complicated struggle for independence, and the dearly held mystique of independent living and wide-open spaces. Texas’s complex settlement pattern—the territory was claimed by Spain, France, and Mexico before becoming an independent republic and then the 28th state in the Union in 1845—supports its mythic status. Six flags really did famously fly over the state from the 16th to the 19th century, during which time there were eight changes of government. Even though the state has increasingly become one of immigrants from other states and other nations south of the border, Texans continue to exhibit a fiercely independent streak. The pages that follow explore the state’s history and provide a primer on its unique culture.

Texas Today

The legendary cowboy still exists, but Texas is now decidedly more urban than it once was. It’s home to three of the nation’s 10 largest cities: Houston, Dallas, and San Antonio. Texas today is as much a leader of high-tech industries as it is an agricultural and ranching state. Houston, Fort Worth, and Dallas hold world-class art museums and collections where local philanthropists have used their money and influence to import globally celebrated