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    The Rough Guide to Romania (Travel Guide eBook)
    The Rough Guide to Romania (Travel Guide eBook)
    The Rough Guide to Romania (Travel Guide eBook)
    Ebook951 pages10 hours

    The Rough Guide to Romania (Travel Guide eBook)

    By Rough Guides

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    About this ebook

    World-renowned 'tell it like it is' guidebook

    Discover Romania with this comprehensive, entertaining, 'tell it like it is' Rough Guide, packed with comprehensive practical information and our experts' honest and independent recommendations. Whether you plan to explore the discover the great outdoors, wander the streets of Bucharest or visit Dracula country, The Rough Guide to Romania will help you discover the best places to explore, sleep, eat, drink and shop along the way.

    Features of The Rough Guide to Romania:
    - Detailed regional coverage: provides in-depth practical information for each step of all kinds of trip, from intrepid off-the-beaten-track adventures, to chilled-out breaks in popular tourist areas. Regions covered include: Bucharest, Cluj, Bran, Sibiu, Brasov, Transylvania and more.
    - Honest independent reviews: written with Rough Guides' trademark blend of humour, honesty and expertise, and recommendations you can truly trust, our writers will help you get the most from your trip toRomania. 
    - Meticulous mapping: always full-colour, with clearly numbered, colour-coded keys. Find your way around Bucharest, Cluj, Sibiu, Brasovand many more locations without needing to get online.
    - Fabulous full-colour photography: features a richness of inspirational colour photography, including vibrant Bucharestand stunning Cluj.
    - Things not to miss: Rough Guides' rundown of Bucharest, Wallachia, Moldavia, Transylvania and the Danube Delta's best sights and top experiences.
    - Itineraries: carefully planned routes will help you organise your trip, and inspire and inform your on-the-road experiences.
    - Basics section: packed with essential pre-departure information including getting there, getting around, accommodation, food and drink, health, the media, festivals, sports and outdoor activities, culture and etiquette, shopping and more.
    - Background information: comprehensive Contexts chapter provides fascinating insights into Romania, with coverage of history, religion, ethnic groups, environment, wildlife and books, plus a handy language section and glossary.
    - Covers: Bucharest, Moldavia, Wallachia, Transylvania and the Danube Delate 

    About Rough Guides: Rough Guides     have been inspiring travellers for over 35 years, with over 30 million copies sold globally. Synonymous with practical travel tips, quality writing and a trustworthy 'tell it like it is' ethos, the Rough Guides list includes more than 260 travel guides to 120+ destinations, gift-books and phrasebooks.

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherInsight Guides
    Release dateJun 1, 2019
    ISBN9781789195712
    The Rough Guide to Romania (Travel Guide eBook)
    Author

    Rough Guides

    Rough Guides are written by expert authors who are passionate about both writing and travel. They have detailed knowledge of the areas they write about--having either traveled extensively or lived there--and their expertise shines through on every page. It's priceless information, delivered with wit and insight, providing the down-to-earth, honest read that is the hallmark of Rough Guides.

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      The Rough Guide to Romania (Travel Guide eBook) - Rough Guides

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      ROMANIAN DANCERS IN TRADITIONAL COSTUME

      Contents

      INTRODUCTION

      Romania

      Where to go

      When to go

      Author picks

      Things not to miss

      Itineraries

      BASICS

      Getting there

      Getting around

      Accommodation

      Food and drink

      Festivals

      Sports and outdoor activities

      Travel essentials

      THE GUIDE

      1Bucharest

      2Wallachia

      3Transylvania

      4Moldavia

      5Maramureş

      6The Banat and Crişana

      7The Delta and the coast

      CONTEXTS

      History

      Wildlife and environmental issues

      Music

      Dracula and vampires

      Books

      Romanian

      Glossary

      SMALL PRINT

      iStock

      Introduction to

      Romania

      Travel in Romania is as rewarding as it is challenging. The country’s mountain scenery, its great diversity of wildlife and cultures, and a way of life that at times seems little changed since the Middle Ages, leave few who visit unaffected. Try to accept whatever happens as an adventure – encounters with Gypsies, wild bears and tricky officials are likely to be far more interesting than anything touted by the tourist board.

      Alamy

      SCHEIA, EASTERN ROMANIA

      Romanians trace their ancestry back to the Romans, and have a noticeable Latin character – warm, spontaneous and appreciative of style. In Transylvania, in addition to ethnic Romanians, one and a half million Magyars and around the same number of Rroma (Gypsies) follow their own path, while dwindling numbers of Transylvanian Germans (Saxons) reside around the fortified towns and churches built by their ancestors. Along the coast, in the Delta and in the Banat, there’s a rich mixture of Russians, Ukrainians, Serbs, Slovaks, Bulgars, Gypsies, Turks and Tatars.

      Two decades of dictatorial rule by Nicolae Ceauşescu brought Romania to the brink of ruin, with economic collapse and repression by the feared Securitate bringing about a stark deterioration in living standards. Although it’s almost thirty years since Ceauşescu’s overthrow in what was Europe’s bloodiest revolution of 1989, the country is, in many ways, only just emerging from his shadow – though Romania’s admission into NATO in 2004 and then, somewhat more controversially, the European Union in 2007, has at least cemented its place in the wider international community.

      As fascinating as the urban centres are – such as the capital, Bucharest, Braşov, Sighişoara, Timişoara and, most enchantingly, Sibiu – Romania’s true charm lies in the remoter regions. Any exploration of rural villages will be rewarding, with sights as diverse as the log houses in Oltenia, Delta villages built of reeds, and the magnificent wooden churches, with their sky-scraping Gothic steeples, of Maramureş, not to mention the country’s more traditional churches, which reflect a history of competing communities and faiths. Romania also offers some of the most unspoiled wilderness on the continent, from the majestic peaks of the Carpathian mountains and the verdant, rolling hills of Bucovina to the extraordinary wetlands of the Danube Delta.

      Fact file

      Occupying an area of 237,000 square kilometres, and with a population of around twenty million, Romania is one of East-Central Europe’s largest nations. Its capital, Bucharest, lies in the far south of the country on the plains of Wallachia, located between the Danube and the mountainous region of Transylvania to the north. The highest peak is Moldoveanu (2544m), in the Carpathian mountains.

      The constitution set in place a parliamentary system of government, elected every four years, with the prime minister at its head – the president is head of state.

      Tourism is one of the fastest-growing sectors of the Romanian economy, with mountain, coastal and health spa resorts absorbing the bulk of the country’s tourist traffic. Romania’s most important exports are textiles and footwear, metal products, and machinery and equipment, and its main trading partners are Italy and Germany.

      Romania’s most famous historical figure is Vlad Ţepeş (c.1431–76), also known as Vlad the Impaler and, more familiarly, as Dracula.

      Where to go

      The first point of arrival for many visitors is the capital, Bucharest. While not an easy city to love – its wide nineteenth-century Parisian-style boulevards are choked with traffic, once-grand fin de siècle buildings crumbling and the suburbs dominated by grim apartment blocks – its cultural institutions, abundant greenery and lively Old Town nightlife reward patience. In recent years, the gastronomic scene has improved beyond recognition, while a wave of artisan coffee joints has revitalized the city’s café culture.

      From the capital, most visitors make a beeline for the province of Transylvania to the north, setting for the country’s most thrilling scenery and home to its finest cities: the gateway is Braşov, whose medieval Old Town is a good introduction to the Saxon architecture of the region, which reaches its peak in the fortified town of Sibiu and the jagged skyline of Sighişoara, Romania’s most atmospherically sited town and the birthplace of Vlad the Impaler (Dracula).

      North and west of here, the great Magyar cities of Târgu Mureş, Cluj and Oradea have retained a wealth of medieval architecture, as well as impressive Baroque and Secession buildings. In the southwest, near the Serbian border, is hugely enjoyable Timişoara, source of the 1989 revolution.

      Alamy

      BEAR LAKE, TRANSYLVANIA

      Spas

      Romania boasts one third of all Europe’s mineral springs, and around 160 spa resorts (băile), many of which were made fashionable by the Habsburgs during the nineteenth century.

      Spa holidays are tremendously popular, the theory being that you stay in a resort for about eighteen days, following a prescribed course of treatment, and ideally return regularly over the next few years. However, if you can get cheap accommodation, a spa can also make a good base for a one-off holiday. In any case, it’s worth bearing in mind that even the smallest spas have campsites and restaurants.

      The basic treatment naturally involves drinking the waters, which come in an amazing variety: alkaline, chlorinated, carbogaseous, and sodium-, iodine-, magnesium-, sulphate- or iron-bearing. In addition, you can bathe in hot springs or sapropelic muds, breathe in foul fumes at mofettes, or indulge in a new generation of complementary therapies such as ultrasound and aerosol treatment, ultraviolet light baths, acupuncture and electrotherapy.

      The spas all have their own areas of specialization: Sovata is the best place for gynaecological problems; Covasna, Vatra Dornei and Buziaş deal with cardiovascular complaints; Călimăneşti-Căciulata, Slănic Moldova, Sângeorz-Băi and Băile Olăneşti with digestion; and others (notably Băile Herculane and Băile Felix) with a range of locomotive and rheumatic ailments. Mountain resorts such as Sinaia, Băile Tuşnad and Moneasa treat nervous complaints with fresh air, which has an ideal balance of ozone and ions.

      The best of Romania, though, is its countryside, and in particular the wonderful mountains. The wild Carpathians, forming the frontier between Transylvania and, to the east and south, Moldavia and Wallachia, shelter bears, stags, chamois and eagles. The Bucegi, Făgăraş and Retezat ranges and the Padiş plateau, meanwhile, offer some of the most spectacular hiking opportunities in Europe. The Black Sea coast is full of brash resorts, notably Mamaia, but it does have its charms, not least the old port of Constanţa.

      Just north of here, the Danube Delta is set apart from the rest of the country; here life has hardly changed for centuries and boats are the only way to reach many settlements. During spring and autumn, hundreds of species of birds migrate through this area or come to breed. While not quite as remote, the villages of Maramureş, bordering Ukraine in the north, retain a medieval feel with their fabulous wooden churches. Close by, sprinkled amid the soft, rolling hills of Bucovina, are the wonderful painted monasteries, whose religious frescoes are among the most outstanding in Europe.

      < Back to Introduction

      When to go

      The climate is pretty crucial in planning a trip to Romania. Winters can be brutal – snow blankets much of the country, temperatures of -15°C to -20°C are not uncommon, and a strong, icy wind (the crivaţ) sweeps down from Russia. Conditions improve with spring, bringing rain and wild flowers to the mountains and the softest of blue skies over Bucharest, and prompting a great migration of birds through the Delta. By May, the lowlands are warming up and you might well find strong sunshine on the coast before the season starts in July. Although by far the hottest time of the year, summer or early autumn is the perfect time to investigate Transylvania’s festivals and hiking trails (though brief but violent thunderstorms are common in the Carpathians during this period), and to see the painted monasteries of Bucovina, while flocks of birds again pass through the Delta in late autumn.

      Alamy

      PIATRA CRAIULUI, THE CARPATHIAN MOUNTAINS

      < Back to Introduction

      Author picks

      Our authors have wined and dined, tramped and traipsed, driven and danced their way around Romania for this eighth edition of the Guide. What follows is a selection of their personal highlights.

      Spectacular drive Snaking its way for some 90km across the southern section of the Carpathians, the spectacular Transfăgăraşan Highway is the ultimate Romanian road trip.

      Wildlife encounters Romania is a wildlife haven, from bear-watching and wolf-tracking in the Carpathians to birdwatching and fishing in the Danube Delta.

      Stay with a count Spend some time with real-life nobility at Count Kálnoky’s beautiful guesthouses in the remote village of Micloşoara, in deepest, darkest Transylvania.

      Fantastic fortified churches Southern Transylvania is replete with ancient Saxon churches, though none is more impressive than Prejmer‘s commanding citadel.

      Awesome castle An immense Gothic masterpiece, Corvin Castle in Hunedoara is Romania’s most theatrical fortress.

      Gypsy grooves From the extraordinary polyphonic sounds of the Taraf de Haidouks, to the booming brass beats of Fanfare Ciocărlia, these outrageously talented musicians provide an experience not to be missed.

      Magnificent monasteries The rolling hills of Bucovina provide the setting for a succession of richly painted monasteries, notably Moldovița, Sucevița and Voroneț.

      Tough treks Romania’s classic trek is the five-day Făgăraş ridge; there’s also the knife-edge of the Piatra Craiului, and the stunning peaks and lakes of the Retezat massif.

      symbol.

      Alamy

      VIDRARU DAM, TRANSYLVANIA

      Alamy

      CORVIN CASTLE, HUNEDOARA

      < Back to Introduction

      20

      things not to miss

      It’s not possible to see everything Romania has to offer in one trip – and we don’t suggest you try. What follows, in no particular order, is a selective and subjective taste of the country’s highlights: outstanding architecture, natural wonders, spectacular hikes and unforgettable festivals. All entries are colour-coded by chapter and have a page reference to take you straight into the Guide, where you can find out more.

      iStock

      1 Bear- and wolf-tracking

      Spend a day trailing Romania’s largest carnivores – if you’re lucky, you may see one of these magnificent creatures up close.

      Dreamstime

      2 Merry Cemetery, Săpânţa

      True to its name, the Merry Cemetery is a riot of beautifully carved and coloured wooden headstones.

      Alamy

      3 Wooden churches of Maramureş

      The beguiling landscape of this isolated region is dominated by marvellous wooden churches, such as those at Budeşti.

      iStock

      4 Timişoara

      The crucible of the 1989 revolution, this most cosmopolitan of Romanian cities promises handsome architecture, fine parks and a vibrant arts scene.

      Alamy

      5 Peleş Castle, Sinaia

      Once a refuge for Ceauşescu and visiting dignitaries, Peleş remains the country’s most opulent palace.

      Alamy

      6 Bucharest

      Romania’s noisy, chaotic capital boasts a number of terrific museums, remarkable architecture and some of the best nightlife in the Balkans.

      iStock

      7 Black Sea

      Strewn with lively resorts and sandy beaches, the Black Sea coast offers everything from wakeboarding to kayaking, while Constanţa is the seaboard’s cultural hub.

      iStock

      8 Danube Delta

      This remote and beautiful landscape is teeming with fabulous wildlife, and promises some of the finest birdwatching in Europe.

      Alamy

      9 Fortified churches

      Scattered among the lush hills of southern Transylvania are dozens of marvellous fortified Saxon churches; those at Biertan and Prejmer are among the most impressive.

      Shutterstock

      10 Constantin Brâncuşi

      Romania’s greatest sculptor has bequeathed an impressive legacy of striking works of art, such as the Endless Column in Târgu Jiu.

      Shutterstock

      11 Sibiu

      Beautiful architecture, terrific museums and fabulous festivals make the once great Saxon town of Sibiu an alluring destination.

      iStock

      12 Bucovina hills

      Cloaked in beech, fir and pine, the gorgeous rolling Bucovina hills are a walker’s paradise.

      iStock

      13 Braşov

      Shadowed by mountains and boasting a fine Baroque centre, this erstwhile Saxon settlement is one of Transylvania’s most appealing cities.

      Gregory Wrona

      14 Vişeu de Sus train ride

      Jump aboard the early-morning logging train for a meandering ride up the picturesque Vaser valley.

      iStock

      15 Sighişoara

      Atmospheric medieval town with a brooding skyline of ramparts, towers and spires.

      Alamy

      16 Făgăraş mountain hiking

      The spectacular peaks of the Făgăraş provide access to some rewarding hikes.

      Gregory Wrona

      17 Dracula

      The Princely Court at Târgovişte and Poienari Castle are just two of the many sites linked to the Dracula legend.

      Alamy

      18 Painted monasteries

      The monasteries of southern Bucovina and Moldavia are renowned for their magnificent exterior frescoes.

      Alamy

      19 Folk and Gypsy music

      Don’t miss the wild, irrepressible sounds of Romanian folk and Gypsy music.

      Alamy

      20 The Carpathian Range

      One of Europe’s least spoiled mountain ranges, full of wildlife and first-class hiking trails.

      < Back to Introduction

      Alamy

      Itineraries

      Romania rewards exploration – the major towns and cities have countless unmissable sights, but it’s by getting off the beaten track that you’ll discover the country’s most bewitching charms. These itineraries encourage you to do just that: breathe mountain air in the Carpathians, visit timeless rural villages in Maramureş or enjoy the unparalleled birdlife of the Danube Delta.

      THE GRAND TOUR

      This itinerary leads you around the country’s must-see sights, taking in everything from Dracula and the Danube Delta to Bucharest and the Black Sea Coast.

      Bucharest By turns chaotic and compelling, the Romanian capital features Stalinist architecture, ancient churches, intriguing museums, and a fast-improving gastronomic scene.

      Braşov This vibrant city, a former Saxon stronghold, retains one of the country’s most picturesque Old Town squares, dominated by the magnificent Black Church.

      Sighişoara This place of medieval towers and needle spires is a suitably spooky setting for the birthplace of Vlad Ţepeş, aka Dracula.

      Timişoara The most appealing of the Banat cities, Timişoara offers plentiful reminders of the 1989 revolution, which began here.

      Maramureş Romania’s remote, northernmost region is also its most enchanting, with villages seemingly lost in time and ancient customs still thriving.

      Bucovina Lush valleys and forested hills aside, Bucovina is famed for its painted monasteries, whose startling exterior wall paintings remain supreme works of art.

      Danube Delta One of Europe’s most evocative landscapes, the Delta offers an array of birdlife unmatched anywhere else on the continent – stunning during migration season.

      Black Sea coast Bountiful sun, sea and sand combine to make the Romanian coastline the perfect spot to rest up for a day or two.

      THE GREAT OUTDOORS

      Underground, overground or on the water, Romania offers countless opportunities to embrace activities ranging from the sedate to the fast-paced and action-packed.

      Caving in the Apuseni The karst zone of the Apuseni offers fabulous possibilities to explore subterranean wonders such as Meziad and the even more spectacular Bears’ Cave at Chişcău.

      Hiking the Făgăraş Cutting across the country are the sinuous Carpathian mountains, whose best-known range is the awesome Făgăraş, harbouring Romania’s loftiest peaks, the highest of which is Moldoveanu (2544m).

      Wildlife-watching in the Carpathians Explore forests looking for markings made by large carnivores – there’s a good chance of spotting bears from purpose-made hideouts, though wolves are more elusive.

      Skiing The superior slopes and facilities of Poiana Braşov exert the greatest pull, though there’s also terrific skiing at Buşteni, Predeal and Sinaia.

      Birdwatching in the Delta Europe’s most extensive wetland, with the continent’s largest pelican colonies, the Delta is heaven for birdwatchers, especially during the spring and autumn migrations.

      Coastal activities The coast provides all manner of possibilities for fun-filled diversions, such as wakeboarding, waterskiing and kayaking.

      AWESOME ARCHITECTURE

      Romania has some of the most distinctive structures in Europe, from the UNESCO-listed wooden churches of rural Maramureş to the bold architectural statements of Bucharest.

      Bucharest From the monochrome concrete jungle of the Centru Civic and its compellingly monstrous Palace of Parliament, to French-inspired buildings like the magnificent Atheneum, the Romanian capital is endlessly fascinating.

      Horezu monastery The finest example in Romania of the Brâncovenesc school, an architectural style conceived by the seventeenth-century Wallachian ruler, Constantin Brâncoveanu, Horezu is an elegant fusion of Baroque, Renaissance and Ottoman elements.

      Saxon churches, Transylvania Transylvania’s Saxon villages are defined by their fortified churches, such as the one at Biertan, a commanding structure set in rings of walls, and the delightful example at Mălâncrav.

      Secession masterpieces, Oradea Oradea showcases the country’s most impressive range of Art Nouveau architecture; fine examples include the Moskovits Palace and the legendary Vultural Negru building.

      Wooden churches, Maramureş Scattered all over Maramureş, these wonderful eighteenth-century wooden churches are distinguished by steeply sloping shingled roofs, slender bell towers and fine porches – those at Surdeşti and Ieud are unmissable.

      Painted monasteries, Bucovina The so-called Moldavian style – integrating Gothic and Byzantine – is showcased to spectacular effect in these ancient monuments, typically featuring a large enclosure with thickset walls and an imposing entrance gate.

      < Back to Introduction

      iStock

      TRADITIONAL ROMANIAN CHEESE

      Basics

      Getting there

      Getting around

      Accommodation

      Food and drink

      Festivals

      Sports and outdoor activities

      Travel essentials

      Getting there

      Flying is the easiest way to reach Romania, with several airlines now operating direct from the UK. Flying from North America, Australasia or South Africa will entail one or more changes. Travelling to Romania from the UK by train is a long haul, though with a rail pass you can take in the country as part of a wider trip.

      If flying, you can often cut costs by going through a specialist flight agent, who in addition to dealing with discounted flights may also offer student and youth fares and travel insurance, rail passes, car rental, tours and the like.

      Flights from the UK and Ireland

      Flying from the UK to Romania takes between three and three and a half hours. British Airways and TAROM, the Romanian national carrier, both have daily direct scheduled flights from London Heathrow to Bucharest. A number of budget carriers – including Wizz Air, easyJet, Ryanair and the Romanian carrier Blue Air – now serve a host of Romanian cities, including Bacău, Bucharest, Cluj, Constanţa, Iaşi, Satu Mare, Sibiu, Târgu Mureş and Timişoara, though many of these are seasonal. Both Blue Air and Ryanair fly from Dublin to Romania.

      Prices depend on how far in advance you book, although season momondo.com are invaluable for researching the best connections and prices.

      A BETTER KIND OF TRAVEL

      At Rough Guides we are passionately committed to travel. We believe it helps us understand the world we live in and the people we share it with – and of course tourism is vital to many developing economies. But the scale of modern tourism has also damaged some places irreparably, and climate change is accelerated by most forms of transport, especially flying. We encourage our authors to consider the carbon footprint of the journeys they make in the course of researching our guides.

      Flights from the US and Canada

      There are no direct flights from North America to Romania, though most major airlines offer one- or two-stop flights via the bigger European cities, often in conjunction with TAROM, the national carrier. From the east coast of the US, expect to pay around US$700 low season and US$1000 high season; and from the west coast around US$1100 low season and US$1400 high season. From Canada, expect to pay around Can$1300 low season from Toronto (Can$1700 high season) and Can$1900 low season from Vancouver (Can$2300 high season).

      Flights from Australia, New Zealand and South Africa

      There are no direct flights from Australia or New Zealand to Romania, so you’ll have to change airlines, either in Asia or Europe, although the best option is to fly to a Western European gateway for a connecting flight. A return fare from eastern Australia is around Aus$2200 low season and Aus$2700 high season. From New Zealand, a return fare costs from around NZ$2400 low season and NZ$3000 high season.

      There are no direct flights from South Africa to Romania, but plenty of airlines offer one-stop flights via European hubs such as London, Frankfurt or Paris. Flying with an airline such as Lufthansa from Johannesburg via Frankfurt costs around ZAR9000 in low season, ZAR11,000 in high season.

      By train

      Travelling by train is likely to be considerably more expensive than flying. The shortest journey takes about 36 hours, with a standard second-class return ticket, incorporating Eurostar, costing around £350. From London St Pancras International, take the Eurostar to Paris Gare du Nord, and then walk to the Gare de l’Est for a train to either Munich or Vienna, where you change for Budapest. In Budapest, change again for the last leg to Romania.

      seat61.com) is invaluable on most aspects of rail travel in Europe.

      Rail passes

      interrail.eu) are only available to those who have been resident in Europe for six months or more. They come in first- and second-class for those aged 28 and over and (cheaper) under-28 versions. The passes are available to a combination of countries for five days within a fifteen-day period (£245 second class, £190 under-28), seven days within one month (£292 second class, £233 under-28) and ten days within one month (£347 second class, £278 under-28); there’s also travel for fifteen consecutive days (£384 second class, £307 under-28), 22 consecutive days (£449 second class, £359 under-28) or one month unlimited (£580 second class, £465 under-28). Pass holders also receive a discounted rate on the Eurostar service.

      The other InterRail scheme is the one-country pass, which allows you to travel a certain number of days during a one-month period. For Romania, three says within one month costs £84 for 28 and over/£73 under-28s; four days within one month £104/£91 under-28s; six days in one month £141/£122; eight days in one month £173/£150; however, this doesn’t represent particularly great value given how cheap it is to travel by train in Romania.

      Non-European residents qualify for the Eurail pass eurail.com), which must be bought before arrival in Europe, or from RailEurope in the UK. The pass allows unlimited first-class travel in 28 European countries, including Romania, and is available in various increments; for example, a fifteen-day continuous pass costs US$705 for those aged 28 and over/US$567 under-28s, 22 days ($907/$727), and one month ($1112/$893). There are also a number of other passes available, including a One-Country Pass and a Select Pass, which allows you to travel in two-, three- or four neighbouring countries.

      By car from the UK

      Driving to Romania, a distance of some 2000km from London, is really only worth considering if you are planning to travel around Romania extensively or want to make various stopovers en route.

      eurotunnel.com), the best route rac.co.uk). for details of driving within Romania.

      Airlines, agents and operators

      Agents and operators

      North South Travel northsouthtravel.co.uk. Friendly, competitive travel agency, offering discounted fares worldwide. Profits are used to support projects in the developing world, especially the promotion of sustainable tourism.

      STA Travel 0861 781 781. Worldwide specialists in independent travel; also student IDs, travel insurance, car rental, rail passes and more. Good discounts for students and under-26s.

      Trailfinders trailfinders.com. One of the best-informed and most efficient agents for independent travellers.

      Travel CUTS travelcuts.com. Canadian youth and student travel firm.

      USIT usit.ie. Ireland’s main student and youth travel specialists.

      Specialist operators

      Balkan Holidays balkanholidays.co.uk. Southeastern Europe specialists offering summer and winter package deals, mainly to Poiana Braşov.

      Beyond the Forest beyondtheforest.com. Comprehensive Romania specialists offering package and special interest tours (wilderness, wine and culture, riding, spas, Dracula), flights, accommodation, car rental and rail tickets.

      Birdfinders birdfinders.co.uk. Ten-day birdwatching tour of Transylvania, the Danube Delta and the Black Sea coast in April.

      Eastern Eurotours easterneurotours.com.au. Classical tour throughout Romania, including Transylvania, the painted monasteries and Dracula, and a Danube Delta hike and bike tour.

      Exodus exodus.co.uk. Guided walking tours and bear-watching in the Carpathians, cycle trips, and winter walking and snowshoeing tours.

      Explore Worldwide explore.co.uk. Trekking in Transylvania, village folklore in Maramureş and the Danube Delta, and a family winter adventure tour.

      Go Barefoot gobarefoot.travel. Nine-day walking tours through Maramureş, visiting the wooden churches, and Bucovina, visiting the painted monasteries.

      Hooked on Cycling hookedoncycling.co.uk. Eight-day self-guided cycling tour (easy to moderate) through the Carpathians, staying in local guesthouses.

      Limosa Holidays limosaholidays.co.uk. Week-long spring and autumn birding tours in the Danube Delta and along the Black Sea Coast, plus one tour which combines birds and bear-watching.

      Naturetrek naturetrek.co.uk. Offers a Wildlife of Transylvania tour alongside a Danube Delta and Carpathian mountains trip.

      Quest Tours and Adventures romtour.com. Wide range of tours and fully customized packages, including monastery and Dracula tours, as well as combined tours with Bulgaria.

      Rediscover rediscover.co.uk. Tailor-made holidays and small group tours covering just about every region of the country.

      Ride World Wide rideworldwide.com. Seven-day riding holidays in the Carpathians between April and Oct; four to six hours’ riding daily and accommodation in local guesthouses.

      Romania Travel Centre romaniatravelcentre.com. Romania specialists offering a comprehensive programme including Bucharest city breaks, coastal, ski and spa holidays, ecotours and biking trips. Flights and tailor-made accommodation deals too.

      The Slow Cyclist theslowcyclist.co.uk. Excellent cycling and walking tours through forests and meadows in Transylvania, staying in traditional cottages and guesthouses.

      Travelling Naturalist naturalist.co.uk. Spring and autumn birdwatching tours to the Danube Delta, and a summer Birds and Bears in Transylvania trip.

      Wilderness Travel wildernesstravel.com. Fifteen-day hiking and sightseeing expedition starting in Bulgaria before crossing into Romania and the Carpathians. There’s also a fifteen-day Great Carpathian Traverse, taking in five countries.

      Rail contacts

      Trainline trainline.eu.

      Eurostar eurostar.com.

      Rail Europe raileurope.com.

      < Back to Basics

      Getting around

      Most Romanian towns are easily reached by bus or maxitaxi (minibus), both long-distance services and local connections, though the driving often leaves much to be desired. The rail system is in poor health, and there’s barely a skeleton service on major routes, taking much longer than they did a decade ago – however, both forms of transport are still remarkably cheap. Driving can be an attractive, if frustrating, proposition, allowing you to visit anywhere you please.

      By rail

      Despite severe cutbacks, interminable delays and aged carriages, the SNCFR (Societatea Naţională a Căilor Ferate Române, generally known as the CFR, or ChéFéRé) network has many wonderfully scenic routes, particularly in Transylvania, and it remains an incredibly cheap way of getting around.

      There are two types of train: Regio (R) services, which stop everywhere, and InterRegio (IR), calling only at major towns, which are more comfortable and more expensive. EuroCity (EC) and EuroNight (EN) trains are international services.

      Train timetables (orar trenurilor) are displayed in stations and CFR offices; arrivals are on a white board, departures on a yellow one. Watch out for services that run only during certain seasons (circulă numai, eg Intre 9.V şi 8.IX – between May 9 and Sept 8), or only on particular days (1 represents Mon, 2 represents Tues and so on; nu circula Sâmbata şi Duminica cfrcalatori.ro, and you should always check at the station. Details of main routes are given in the Guide chapters.

      Left luggage offices (bagaje de mănă) exist in many train stations, where you’ll usually have to pay around €1.

      Tickets

      Fares (calculated by distance travelled) are similar to bus fares; for example, a journey of 100km on an InterRegio service will cost around €7 second class, and around €10 first class (around €3/€5 on a Regio), which makes first-class travel a bargain. InterRegio tickets include a seat allocation. Ticketing is now computerized, with all information on one piece of paper, while return tickets (bilet dus-întors) can now be issued too.

      Some long-distance overnight trains have sleeping cars (vagon de dormit) and couchettes (cuşete), for which a surcharge of around €13–35 and €7.60–11 respectively (depending upon how many berths there are) is levied.

      By bus or maxitaxi

      Romania’s bus network consists of a confusing and uncoordinated array of private companies, but is often unavoidable. Many towns have several bus/maxitaxi stations and calling points, which means that locating the right bus in the right place can be a tricky proposition; indeed, in the countryside knowing when and where to wait for the bus is a local art form; on Sundays many regions have no local buses at all.

      DRIVING RULES AND REGULATIONS

      Traffic drives on the right and speed limits for vehicles are 50km/h in built-up areas, 90km/h on the open road (100km/h on European roads, denoted by E) and 130km/h on the motorway. Otherwise, the most important rules are the wearing of seat belts and the use of dipped headlights outside towns and cities. It is forbidden to use a hand-held phone while driving, and drinking and driving is severely punished. Police (poliţia) are empowered to levy on-the-spot fines for road traffic offences, but they cannot collect them; instead you’ll be issued with a ticket (typically €40–80); if you settle up within 48 hours – at a town hall or one of the CEC savings banks – then you’ll only have to pay half the fine. If you have an accident, you’re legally obliged to await the arrival of the police. You can get technical assistance and information from ACR 021 315 5510). In the event of a breakdown, call ACR’s 24-hour breakdown service 021 222 2222, whereupon an English-speaking operator will direct you to the nearest point of assistance.

      cdy.ro. Expect to pay around €5 from Bucharest to Piteşti (100km), or €10 from Bucharest to Braşov (250km). Maxitaxis often begin and end their journeys from the local bus or train station. Details of main routes are given in the Guide chapters.

      All towns have local bus services, and in the main cities you’ll also find trams (tramvai)and trolley buses (troleibuz). Tickets are normally sold in pairs (around €0.30) from street kiosks or machines. Validate them yourself aboard the vehicle; stiff fines apply if you don’t.

      By car

      Outside the major towns and cities, you’ll find the roads relatively traffic-free, and many routes, particularly through Transylvania, are wonderfully scenic. That said, the overall state of the roads varies enormously, while Romanian driving habits often leave much to be desired; indeed, Romania has one of the highest traffic accident fatality rates in the EU.

      Owing to a combination of corruption and incompetence, construction of Romania’s motorways (autostrada) continues at snail’s pace, At present, the only fully complete motorway is the A2 between Bucharest and Constanţa, while a few sections of the A1 – which will eventually link Bucharest with Nadlac on the Hungarian border – are now complete, namely the sections between Bucharest and Piteşti, Sibiu and Deva, and Lugoj and Nadlac. The main roads (drum naţional or DN) are, generally speaking, in good condition. The quality of the county roads (drum judeţean), however, is variable, while many of the local roads are disintegrating – potholes are a particularly nasty hazard. Being such a big country, long distances are best covered at a steady pace, especially if driving in the more mountainous regions where greater powers of concentration are required.

      Aside from the very Balkan habit of overtaking at absurdly risky moments, other potential hazards include horses and carts, which are commonplace even on main roads, and stray dogs – squashed canines lying on the side of the road are an all too common sight. For these reasons, avoid driving after dark wherever possible.

      If bringing your own car into the country you must purchase a sticker which acts as a road toll, known as a vignette (rovignetaroviniete.ro), which cost €3 for a week, €7 for a month or €13 for three months; these are available online or from border entry points, most petrol stations or post offices.

      Petrol stations (benzinarie) can be found almost everywhere, even in the most rural backwaters – the most common are those run by ROMPETROL, OMV-PETROM, LUKOIL (Russian) and MOL (Hungarian), many of which have good refreshment and toilet facilities, as well as wi-fi. Unleaded fuel (fără plomb) currently costs around €1.20 per litre. Credit cards are accepted at most stations. While most service stations operate from around 7am to 8 or 9pm, quite a few are open around the clock, usually those on the outskirts of larger towns and cities as well as the main roads.

      ACCOMMODATION PRICES

      We give a room price for all establishments reviewed in this guide. Unless otherwise stated, this represents the price for the cheapest available double or twin room in high season. Consequently, at other times of the year, or during special promotions, you’ll often find a room for a lower price than that suggested. Though you will generally pay for your room in lei, the codes are expressed in euros as many hotels are priced this way. For youth hostels, where relevant, we give the price of a double room and of a dormitory bed. At campsites, the price listed is for two people, a pitch and a vehicle, unless otherwise stated.

      Car rental

      Renting a car is simple enough, provided you are 21 or older and hold a valid national driving licence. The cheapest prices are almost always online; expect to pay around €35–45 for a day’s rental, though the price drops the longer the rental period. Most of the major companies have branches in Bucharest (and Henri Coandă airport) and all the othermajor cities, and airports. However, you may find that local companies, such as Pan Travel, offer better deals. Note that you may be able to take the car into neighbouring countries, although most companies charge extra for this.

      By bicycle

      Given the mountainous terrain and the poor state of many of the country roads, you’ll need to be fit and self-reliant to cycle around Romania. Cycle shops are few and far between, although most village mechanics can manage basic repairs. Carry a spare tyre and a few spokes, and check carrier nuts regularly, as the potholes and corrugations will rapidly shake them loose. A touring bike is better than a mountain bike unless you want to go off-road; with the immense network of forestry roads (drum forestiere) and free access to the hills, genuine mountain biking is wonderful here. If you do bring your own bike, avoid cycling in Bucharest. Carrying your bike by train is easiest on Regio services, where you can simply put it in the carriage; on InterRegio, it can be stored in the baggage van (this should be indicated on the timetable).

      By plane

      Romania has a reasonably comprehensive network of domestic flights, serving most of the larger cities, which can be a useful alternative to the increasingly decrepit railway system. TAROMtarom.ro) domestic servicesdepart most days from Bucharest’s Henri Coandă airport to Baia Mare, Cluj, Constanţa, Iaşi, Oradea, Satu Mare, Sibiu, Suceava Târgu Mureş and Timişoara. In addition, Blue Air blueairweb.com) flies from Bucharest to Bacău, Cluj and Iaşi. Singles start from around €30–40.

      Hitchhiking

      Hitchhiking (autostop or occasie) is an integral part of the Romanian transport system to supplement patchy or nonexistent services on back roads – it’s even common (although illegal) on the autostrada. It’s accepted practice to pay (equivalent to a bus fare) for lifts; although this is often waived, make sure you’ve got some small change to hand. As anywhere, exercise caution.

      < Back to Basics

      Accommodation

      You should have little trouble finding a bed in Romania, whatever the season. Hotels run the full gamut from bland, basic dives to plush establishments – there are now a few design hotels popping up, too. You can also choose from a good number of youth hostels, in addition to a spread of private rooms and village homestays, the last of which typically offer wonderfully peaceful retreats.

      In summer, it’s safer (though only really essential on the coast) to make advance hotel reservations. If you’re keen to save money on accommodation and you’re travelling around a lot, you can use the trains to your advantage. On the long overnight journeys by train, it only costs a little more to book a comfortable sleeping car or couchette.

      Hotels and pensions

      Hotels use the traditional five-star grading system for classification, although in many cases this often gives only the vaguest idea of prices, which can fluctuate wildly according to the locality and season. For example, in Bucharest you can get some excellent deals at many high-end hotels in summer when the traditional business market is slack, while along the coast prices can drop by as much as a third outside July and August.

      TOP FIVE HOTELS

      Athénée Palace Hilton Bucharest.

      Casa Raţiu Turda.

      Christina Bucharest.

      Count Kálnoky’s Guesthouses Micloşoara.

      Valea Verde Cund.

      Outside Bucharest and the coast, the average three-star hotel can charge anything between €30 and€60 for a double room. But note that ratings are not always indicative of the quality of a place; what might be considered a four-star hotel in Romania is often the equivalent of a three-star in Western Europe. That said, the plushest four- and five-star hotels offer all the luxuries one would expect, while three-star hotels can be unpredictable in terms of both quality and cost; you should, however, expect a reasonable standard of comfort, as well as private bathroom, TV, air conditioning and minibar, in most. Whatever the rating, just about every hotel now has wi-fi, and it’s usually excellent.

      There is now a high number of pensions throughout the country; these are often smaller and more personable than hotels, as well as offering much better value for money.

      Village homestays and private rooms

      Village homestays (agroturism) – rural farmhouse-style accommodation – offer visitors the opportunity to spend some time with a Romanian family (most of whom won’t speak English) in often lovely surrounds. The downside is that many places are in fairly remote locations, and are therefore difficult to reach without your own transport. Homestays are graded according to a daisy classification systemruralturism.ro lists a number of homestays throughout the country. The official nationwide body for homestays is ANTREC antrec.ro).

      You’ll also come across many places advertising private rooms (cazare or camere de inchiriat), particularly in the more touristed areas of Transylvania and along the coast. Indeed, in places like Braşov, Sighişoara and in some of the coastal resorts, you’re likely to be greeted by people at the train station offering a room. Expect to pay between €10–15 for a bed, though breakfast is unlikely to be provided. In the countryside, where there is a strong custom of hospitality, people may take you in and refuse payment, but you should offer something anyway, or come armed with a few packets of coffee, which make welcome presents.

      Hostels

      Romania has a reasonable network of HI youth hostels hostelling.ro), plus many which are independently run. There are around a dozen or so in Bucharest, as well as good options in Braşov, Cluj, Sibiu, Sighişoara and Timişoara, while you’ll find the odd one in towns and resorts like Deva, Miercurea Ciuc, Suceava and Vama Veche. Expect to pay around €10–12 for a dorm bed, €15–20 for a bed in a double room, and €25 for a single-bed room – breakfast is usually extra.

      While student accommodation is largely in short supply, you may find the odd student residence willing to let out a bed, though these are largely available only in July and August – however, these are unlikely to be advertised, so ask for details at the local tourist office or town agency.

      Cabanas

      In the countryside, particularly in the mountainous areas favoured by hikers, there are well over a hundred cabanas or hikers’ huts, ranging from chic alpine villas with dozens of bedrooms to fairly primitive chalets with bunk beds and cold running water. The hikers’ cabanas are generally friendly and serve as useful places to pick up information about trails and the weather. Some (mainly in the Bucegi range) can be easily reached by cable car, while others are situated on roads just a few kilometres from towns; however, the majority are fairly isolated and accessible only by mountain tracks or footpaths. The location of the cabanas is shown precisely on hiking maps. Cabanas are supposed not to turn hikers away, but in the Făgăraş mountains, in particular, it might be wise to book in advance, by phone or through a local agency. Beds in remoter areas cost about €3–4, a little more for a private room or in one of the more comfortable cabanas.

      Camping

      Romania has a reasonable spread of campsites throughout the country, which vary in quality from very rudimentary places with minimal facilities to first-class sites with cabins or bungalows (căsuţe) for rent, hot showers and even a restaurant. You’ll generally pay about €3 per person per night, plus €5 for a car.

      In the mountains, certain areas may be designated as a camping area (loc de campare), but these are few and far between. However, providing you don’t light fires in forests, leave litter or damage nature reserves, officialdom turns a blind eye to tourists camping wild, or, at the worst, may simply tell you to move along.

      < Back to Basics

      Food and drink

      Romanian cuisine tends to be filling and wholesome rather than particularly tasty or imaginative, with menus dominated by meat, in common with the rest of the Balkans. Similarly, the range and quality of restaurants remains fairly average, the one exception being Bucharest, where there is now a genuinely exciting gastronomic scene. That said, the likes of Cluj, Braşov and Sibiu are also experiencing a mini culinary renaissance. For a glossary of food and drink terms.

      Breakfast and snacks

      Unless you’re staying in a four- or five-star hotel, where a full buffet is the norm, breakfast (micul dejun) is usually a fairly dull – sometimes even depressing – affair, typically consisting of bread rolls with butter and jam, the ubiquitous omelette, and perhaps some salty cheese or a long, unappealing skinless sausage – the coffee, meanwhile, is invariably lamentable.

      For snacks, known as gustări (also the Romanian word for hors d’oeuvres), head to a bakery (brutărie), which you can find everywhere. Just about all of these dispense covrigi, plain or seeded bread rings straight from the oven, sold as a bunch and tied to a piece of string. Bakeries are also good for pateuri, flaky pastries stuffed with cheese, meat or fruit fillings, and brioche (cozonac), a Moldavian speciality. Street vendors and beer gardens dispense a variety of grilled meats, the most popular of which are mititei (more commonly known as mici), succulent grilled beef rissoles served with a dollop of mustard.

      TOP FIVE RESTAURANTS

      The Artist, Bucharest.

      Beca’s Kitchen, Bucharest.

      Bistro de L’Arte, Braşov.

      Old Lisbon, Sibiu.

      D.O.R., Bran.

      Restaurants

      Given the affordability of eating out in Romania, it’s best to go upmarket ifyou can, since the choice of dishes incheaper restaurants is invariably very predictable. Generally speaking, in better restaurants you should be able to get a decent two-course meal, with a glass of wine or beer, for a bargain €12–15.

      It’s always worth enquiring Care feluri le serviţi astazi, vă rog? (What do you have today?) or Ce Óhmi recomandaţi? (What do you recommend?) before studying the menu too seriously. An increasing number of restaurants, including some of the better establishments, now offer daily set menus, typically a two- or three-course meal, with a drink, for around €6, which is usually offered Monday to Friday between noon and 5 or 6pm. While not exactly haute cuisine, these meals are cracking value.

      Self-service autoservire canteens are not as commonplace as they once were, but you’ll still find plenty of them in the coastal resorts. A far cry from the grisly canteens that Ceauşescu intended to make the mainstay of Romanian catering, these uncomplicated venues offer simple, cheap meals.

      Inevitably, standards of service vary depending upon the type of establishment, but generally speaking don’t expect anything but the most perfunctory of service, while in some places you’ll be greeted (and served) with total indifference. Outside Bucharest and some of the larger cities, you’ll find few staff speak English.

      One thing that has changed for the better is the ban on smoking, which includes all restaurants.

      Romanian cuisine

      Perhaps the most authentic Romanian dish is sarmale – cabbage leaves stuffed with rice, meat and herbs, usually served (or sometimes baked) with sour cream or horseradish; they are sometimes also made with vine leaves (sărmălute in foi de viţă) or, in Maramureş, with corn (sarmale cu pasat). Mămăligă, maize mush or polenta, often served with sour cream, is authentic country fare. Stews (tocane) and other dishes often feature a combination of meat and dairy products. Muşchi ciobanesc (shepherd’s sirloin) is pork stuffed with ham, covered in cheese and served with mayonnaise, cucumber and herbs, while muşchi poiana (meadow sirloin) is beef stuffed with mushrooms, bacon, pepper and paprika, served in a vegetable purée and tomato sauce.

      Keep an eye out for regional specialities (specialităţile regiunii). Moldavian cooking is reputedly the best in Romania, featuring rissoles (pârjoale), and more elaborate dishes such as rasol moldovenesc cu hrean (boiled pork, chicken or beef, with a sour cream and horseradish sauce), tochitură moldovenească (a pork stew, with cheese, mămăligă, and a fried egg on top), rulade de pui (chicken roulade) and pui câmpulungean (chicken stuffed with smoked bacon, sausage, garlic and vegetables). Because of Romania’s Turkish past, you may come across moussaka and varieties of pilaf, while the German and Hungarian minorities have contributed such dishes as smoked pork with sauerkraut and Transylvanian hotpot.

      Cakes and desserts are sticky and very sweet. Romanians enjoy pancakes and pieswith various fillings, as well as Turkish-influenced baclava and savarină (crisp pastry soaked in syrup and filled with whipped cream).

      Romanian cheese (brânză) is mainly handmade from sheep’s milk by shepherds who spend the summers in the hills with their flocks. The standard hard cheese is known as caşcaval, while caş is a less salty version of feta, and telemea is a soft and creamy white cheese matured in brine.

      Vegetarian food

      The situation for vegetarians remains predictably dull. You can try requesting something fără carne, vă rog (without meat, please), or checking este cu carne? (does it contain meat?), but you’re unlikely to get very far. It’s worth asking for ghiveci (mixed stewed veg); ardei umpluţi (stuffed peppers); ouă umpluţe picante or ouă umpluţe cu ciuperci (eggs with a spicy filling or mushroom stuffing); ouă romăneşti (poached eggs); or vegetables and salads. However, in practice you’re likely to end up with omelette, mămăligă or caşcaval pané (cheese fried in breadcrumbs).

      Drinks

      Most cafés (cafenea or cofetărie) serve the full range of beverages, from coffee (and occasionally tea) to soft drinks and beer, while many also offer cakes, pastries and ice cream. Romanians usually take their coffee black and sweet in the Turkish fashion; ask for cafea cu lapte if you prefer it with milk, or fără zahăr without sugar. Other types of coffee, such as cappuccino, are invariably hit-or-miss affairs, ranging from good quality to insipid cups with a dollop of cream on top. The good news, though, is that the third-wave coffee movement has hit Romania big-time, and there are now some superb, and superbly designed, artisan coffee houses staffed by knowledgeable, enthusiastic baristas; whilst Bucharest, inevitably, is at the forefront of this, other cities, notably Cluj, Constanţa, Braşov and Iaşi, as well as an increasing number of smaller towns, now boast some terrific coffee houses. Bars and pubs run the full gamut, from dark rough-and-ready dives to flash, modern concerns. A crama is a wine cellar, while a gradina de vară or terasa is a terrace or garden, usually offering mititei as well as beer.

      The national drink is ţuică, a tasty, powerful brandy usually made of plums, taken neat. In rural areas, home-made spirits can be fearsome stuff, often twice distilled (to over fifty percent strength, even when diluted) to yield palincă, much rougher than grape brandy (rachiu or coniac).

      Most beer(bere)is European-style lager (bere blondă). You’ll see Silva (from Reghin), Ciucaş (from Braşov), Ciuc (from Miercurea Ciuc), Timişoreana (from Timişoara) and Ursus (from Cluj – which, to all intents and purposes, is the national beer), while Bergenbier and Eggenburger are acceptable mass-produced brands; you will also occasionally find brown ale (bere neagră or brună). More excitingly, and as with the craft coffee movement, there is now an increasing number of craft beers on the market, with in excess of thirty micro-breweries around the country; ones to look out for include Zăganu and Sikaru from Bucharest, Hophead from Cluj, and Cazino from Constanţa. Beer is usually sold by the bottle, so a request for o sticlă will normally get you one of whatever’s available; draught beer is known as halbă.

      Romania’s best wines – and they are pretty good – are the white Grasa from Cotnari, near Iaşi; Tămâioasă, a luscious, late-harvested Moldavian dessert wine; blackberryish red Fetească Neagră from Dealu Mare, in Buzău county; and the sweet dessert wines from Murfatlar (notably Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, and white Muscat Ottonel). They can be obtained in most restaurants, while some places may just offer you a choice of red or white. Sparkling (spumos) wines from Alba Iulia and Panciu (north of Focşani) are very acceptable. Wine is rarely sold by the glass, but it does no harm to ask – Serviţi vin la pahar?

      < Back to Basics

      Festivals

      While Romania is not particularly known for its range of festivals, there are a number of increasingly diverse events taking place throughout the country, especially in music and film. Inevitably, the cities – in particular Bucharest, Cluj and Sibiu – boast the most impressive roster of events, though there remains an excellent spread of local festivals based around strongly rooted seasonal traditions.

      Aside from the main festivals listed below, there are dozens of other, more local, events taking place across the country, some of which are also described in the Guide. However, obtaining information on dates and locations for most festivals is notoriously difficult, so contact a tourist office or local agency wherever possible.

      april

      Pageant of the Juni Braşov, first Sunday after Easter. Colourful parade in which the town’s youth don elaborate costumes and ride through town on horseback, accompanied by brass bands.

      May

      Measurement of the Milk Festival Ciucea, first or second Sunday of May. Hugely entertaining gathering in which shepherds compete to see who has the most productive flock.

      Europafest Bucharest, mid-May. A dynamic ten days of pop, rock, jazz and blues constitutes the capital’s foremost contemporary music festival.

      Transylvanian International Film Festival tiff.ro. Romania’s premier film festival puts on ten days of top-quality domestic and international movies shown at the city’s many picture houses.

      June

      Bucharest International Film Festival biff.ro. Now one of the Balkans’ most important film gatherings, with a terrific selection of both domestic and foreign screenings.

      International Theatre Festival sibfest.ro. Wonderful open-air jamboree serving up classical, rock and world music, alongside contemporary dance, film, theatre and art.

      July

      Girl Fair of Muntele Găina Avram Iancu, the closest Sunday to July 20. The match-making origins of this boisterous event, taking place atop Mount Găina, have largely given way to a feast of music and dance, though it remains a hugely enjoyable spectacle.

      Medieval Arts Festival sighisoaramedievala.ro. Medieval Transylvania comes to life in the town’s atmospheric citadel, with street performers, open-air concerts and handicraft displays.

      August

      Untold Festival untold.com. Romania’s largest dance and electronic music festival is a riotous affair taking place over four days in the massive Cluj Arena Stadium as well as other more intimate venues around the city.

      Songs of the Olt Călimăneşti, first week of August. Superb gathering of musicians and folklore ensembles from Oltenia performing in the streets of this small spa town.

      Anonimul Film Festival festival-anonimul.ro. International independent film fest with an eclectic mix of long and short films, competitions and open-air screenings, all in a delightful Delta setting.

      Transylvanian International Guitar Festival transilvaniaguitar.ro. Brings together some of the world’s foremost guitarists, and stages competitions, lectures and workshops.

      Rowmania rowmania.ro. Danube river races in specially designed canoes (canotca), set against a backdrop of live music, food and drink along the promenade.

      September

      Plai Festival plai.ro. The Field Festival is three days of top-class world and jazz music, plus theatre, art, photography and literature.

      George Enescu Festival festivalenescu.ro. Romania’s most prestigious festival, of any description; three weeks of world-class classical music staged in the stunning surrounds of the Romanian Atheneum.

      Sachsentreffen Biertan, or another Saxon village, second or third Saturday of September. Annual gathering of Saxons, both from the region and those returning from Germany.

      October

      Astra astrafilm.ro. Well-established international festival of documentary film, with presentations and screenings from around the world.

      Plum Brandy Festival Vălenii de Munte, end of October. Plum brandy producers from all over Romania gather and compete to see who has the country’s finest brew.

      December

      Winter Customs Festival Sighet, end of December. Ancient pagan and Christian beliefs are celebrated in this vibrant coming together of costume, street theatre and music.

      < Back to Basics

      Sports and outdoor activities

      Romania’s sporting pedigree is reasonably strong, thanks largely to the exploits of the tennis player Ilie Nastase and the legendary gymnast Nadia Comaneci, albeit their success

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