Lonely Planet Borneo

Borneo

Contents

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Borneo

Borneo’s Top 17

Need to Know

First Time Borneo

What’s New

If You Like

Month by Month

Itineraries

Outdoor Adventures

Diving Pulau Sipadan

Regions at a Glance

ON THE ROAD

SABAH

Kota Kinabalu

Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park

Pulau Manukan

Pulau Mamutik

Pulau Sapi

Pulau Gaya

Pulau Sulug

Northwestern Sabah

Mt Kinabalu & Kinabalu National Park

Northwest Coast

Eastern Sabah

Sandakan

Sepilok

Sandakan Archipelago

Deramakot Forest Reserve

Sungai Kinabatangan

Lahad Datu

Danum Valley Conservation Area

Tabin Wildlife Reserve

Semporna

Semporna Archipelago

Tawau

Tawau Hills Park

Maliau Basin Conservation Area

Southwestern Sabah

Interior Sabah

Beaufort Division

Pulau Tiga National Park

Pulau Labuan

Diving

SARAWAK

Kuching

Western Sarawak

Bako National Park

Santubong Peninsula

Semenggoh Wildlife Centre

Annah Rais Longhouse

Kubah National Park

Bau & Around

Lundu

Gunung Gading National Park

Tanjung Datu National Park

Talang-Satang National Park

Batang Ai Region

Central Sarawak

Sibu

Batang Rejang

Bintulu

Similajau National Park

Niah National Park

Lambir Hills National Park

Miri

Northeastern Sarawak

Gunung Mulu National Park

Kelabit Highlands

Limbang Division

Culture

BRUNEI DARUSSALAM

Bandar Seri Begawan

Tutong & Belait Districts

Tutong

Jalan Labi

Seria

Temburong District

Bangar

Batang Duri

Ulu Temburong National Park

KALIMANTAN

West Kalimantan

Pontianak

Singkawang

Sintang

Putussibau

Sukadana

Gunung Palung National Park

Central Kalimantan

Tanjung Puting National Park

Pangkalan Bun

Kumai

Palangka Raya

Sebangau National Park

South Kalimantan

Banjarmasin

Kandangan

Loksado

East & North Kalimantan

Balikpapan

Samarinda

Sungai Mahakam

Muller Mountains

Kutai National Park

Berau

Merabu

Derawan Archipelago

North Kalimantan

UNDERSTAND

Understand Borneo

Borneo Today

History

Peoples & Cultures

The Cuisines of Borneo

Natural World

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Responsible Travel

Cultural Etiquette

Wildlife

Diving

Directory A–Z

Accessible Travel

Accommodation

Children

Customs Regulations

Electricity

Embassies & Consulates

Food

Insurance

Internet Access

Legal Matters

LGBT+ Travellers

Maps

Money

Opening Hours

Photography

Post

Public Holidays

Safe Travel

Telephone

Time

Toilets

Tourist Information

Visas

Volunteering

Women Travellers

Transport

Getting there & Away

Getting Around

Health

Before You Go

In Borneo

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

Welcome to Borneo

It’s a jungle out there! Borneo has some of the world’s most wildlife-rich equatorial rainforests, incredible landscapes (above and below the waves) and rich indigenous culture.

Ancient Rainforests

Borneo’s equatorial rainforest jungles conjure up remoteness and adventure, with their impenetrable foliage and longboat trips into the ‘heart of darkness’. But look a little closer and nuances emerge: the pitcher plants, lianas and orchids of the lowland forest give way to conifers and rhododendrons as you ascend the flanks of Mt Kinabalu. Deforestation makes for depressing headlines, but significant parts of the Bornean rainforest remain intact, protected by conservation projects whose viability depends in part on income from tourists.

Jungle Wildlife

For many visitors to Borneo, their most memorable moment is glimpsing a wild orangutan or proboscis monkey swinging through the jungle canopy, spotting an Irrawaddy dolphin in the shimmering waters of the South China Sea, or locking eyes with a pygmy elephant, clouded leopard or saltwater crocodile. Jungle animals are shy by nature, but a good guide can help you tell the difference between a vine and a vine snake, between a twig and a stick insect, and between the call of a gibbon and the cry of a hornbill.

Cultural Riches

Borneo brings together an astonishing array of cultures and languages, and age-old traditions of hospitality mean visitors are welcomed. Most cities have significant Chinese communities, the picturesque coastal kampung (villages) of Sabah and Sarawak are populated mainly by Malays, and you can interact with the Iban, Dusun, Murut, Penan and other indigenous groups in the interior, and with the Rungus and Bajau along the coast. Borneo’s Dayak groups stopped headhunting long ago, but ancient customs and ceremonies live on in longhouse communities.

Culinary Melting Pot

The varied ethnic and cultural backgrounds of Borneo’s people means the island’s cuisines are as wide-ranging as they are delicious. Seafood from the South China Sea is served fresh at Chinese restaurants, smoky satay stalls beckon at Malay night markets and Indonesian eateries set your taste buds on fire with spicy sambal. Even Brunei has its own culinary traditions, as do Borneo’s numerous indigenous groups. From the sublime cooking of the Kelabit people to Iban dishes such as bamboo chicken and midin jungle fern, Dayak cuisine is unlike anything you’ve ever tasted.

Cave in Gunung Mulu National Park, Sarawak | ZODEBALA/GETTY IMAGES ©

Why I Love Borneo

By Anna Kaminski, Writer

During my visits to Borneo the island has always struck me as the ultimate all-rounder. Whether you’re trekking through remote, barely penetrable jungle, exploring underwater worlds brimming with reef fish, sharks and turtles, spotting unique wildlife or exploring vast caves, Borneo has it all. In contrast with the sophisticated coastal cities, the remote interior, rich in indigenous culture, is still imbued with a magic and mystique that has drawn travellers to Borneo for generations. Stay in a traditional longhouse, forage for your dinner in the jungle and experience tribal hospitality, and you’ll depart with lifelong memories.

For more, see Our Writers

Borneo’s Top 17

Gunung Mulu National Park

If the only marvels at Sarawak’s Gunung Mulu National Park were some of the biggest caverns on earth, and the only fauna were the twirling, spiralling clouds of bats that emerge from the Deer Cave at dusk, it would still deserve Unesco World Heritage status. And if the only activity was spotting 20cm-long stick insects on a night walk, the flight from Miri would still be worth it. But add in Gunung Mulu and the Pinnacles and you have one of Southeast Asia’s true wonders.

ZODEBALA/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Maliau Basin

You came to Borneo looking for something wild, right? The Maliau in Sabah is as wild as it gets. The basin is a cliff-rimmed depression filled with primary rainforest – that’s untouched, uncut jungle, older than humanity. We asked a local ranger what he thought of the Maliau, and his Malay response was ‘Adan da Hawa’ – Adam and Eve. That’s how fresh and untouched this forest feels, and if you’re fit enough, you can trek through dense jungle, from waterfall to pristine waterfall, retreating to your hammock at night.

NOKURO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Tanjung Puting National Park

Arguably one of the best places in the world to experience close-up encounters with semi-wild orangutans, Kalimantan’s Tanjung Puting offers an unforgettable upriver journey on a chugging klotok: a boat that’s both your home and your lookout tower. Sleep with fireflies under the stars on the top deck, wake to the call of gibbons in the morning and watch Borneo’s critically endangered charismatic orangutans as they swing ponderously through the open jungle to the feeding platforms.

PAUL & PAVEENA MCKENZIE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Mt Kinabalu

Sabah’s Mt Kinabalu is many things. Highest mountain in Borneo and Malaysia? Check. Climbable even by novices, but great fun for veteran trekkers? Check. Abode of the spirits of local indigenous tribes? Check. Home to several unique-in-Borneo ecosystems and 6000 plant species, many of them endemic? Check. Home to the world’s highest via ferrata? Check. Even on an island bursting with astonishing natural beauty, the sight of Mt Kinabalu’s peak early in the morning causes most folks to lose their breath.

R.M. NUNES/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Kelabit Highlands

The air is clean and cool, the rice fields impossibly green, the local cuisine scrumptious and the hiking – from longhouse to longhouse – is some of the best in Borneo, but the star attraction in the Kelabit Highlands is the people, justifiably famous for their ready smiles and easy way with visitors. Getting to this remote corner of northeastern Sarawak is half the fun – you can either bust your butt on logging roads for 12 hours or take an exhilarating flight in a 19-seat Twin Otter turboprop.

Kelabit woman | BOAZ ROTTEM/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

Top Experiences

Danum Valley

If the primeval jungle of Sabah’s Danum Valley makes you think of dinosaurs, we’ll understand – the area really does look like Jurassic Park. Visitors often spot pygmy elephants, wild orangutans, snakes and clouds of birdlife. Some people, though, don’t actually see any animals at all, as the jungle is so thick it can cloak fauna mere metres from where you’re standing. But that’s part of Danum’s enchanting and timeless appeal, as is the opportunity to watch the sun’s first rays illuminating the mist-shrouded forest from a lofty observation tower.

JEREMY RED/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Kuching

Borneo’s most sophisticated city is a charming combination of old town, romantic waterfront, excellent cuisine for all budgets and buzzing nightlife. Explore galleries and museums preserving the historic legacy of the Brooke family, before taking convenient day trips to discover some of Borneo’s finest natural sites. Spot semi-wild orangutans or search out a giant rafflesia flower in the morning, look for proboscis monkeys and wild crocs on a sundown cruise in the South China Sea, and then dine on super-fresh seafood or crunchy midin fern tips fresh from the jungle.

ABANG FAIZUL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Loksado

Nestled by a rushing stream in the foothills of the Meratus in Kalimantan, scenic Loksado feels more like a mountain retreat than part of Borneo. There are waterfalls, swimming holes, endless hiking opportunities, hot springs, bamboo rafting and lots of friendly locals. Accommodation options are sparse, but you’ll find everything you need for an extended stay, including a great riverside budget lodge and a couple of resorts. Backpackers take note: if you need to re-energise, this is the place.

Bamboo raft | DONNY SOPHANDI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Derawan Archipelago

Choose your own adventure in this diverse island chain on the northeastern fringe of Kalimantan. The sandy streets and waterfront losmen (budget guesthouses) of Pulau Derawan are a first-rate backpacker spot, while the twin resort isles of Nabucco and Nunukan offer extraordinary diving, along with high-end bungalow accommodation. For those intent on finding an authentic tropical paradise, Maratua atoll and the virtually untouristed islands beyond offer a shot at bliss that is increasingly hard to find. Homestay visits here have been known to stretch on for weeks.

Maratua atoll | SONY HERDIANA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Kinabatangan River Safaris

Indiana Jones would love the Sungai Kinabatangan (Kinabatangan River). A muddy brown ribbon of water, Sabah’s longest river wends its way through the epic jungles south of Sandakan, bracketed by riverine forest teeming with civets, orangutans, proboscis monkeys, crocodiles, monitor lizards, hornbills, kingfishers and hawks. Book yourself into one of several jungle camps in the villages of Sukau, Abai and Bilit, or stay with locals in a homestay, and set out on a river cruise for an excellent shot at spotting some of Borneo’s most iconic animals.

JT PLATT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Sarawak’s Longhouses

There’s no better way to experience Sarawak’s indigenous culture than to visit a longhouse. Essentially a whole village under one roof, these dwellings can be longer than two soccer pitches and contain dozens of family units, each of which opens onto a covered common verandah used for economic activities, socialising and celebrations. Although longhouses now enjoy some modern amenities, some still have a few skulls on display from the bygone headhunting days, while the hospitality remains legendary, particularly during the Gawai festival.

FADHLI ADNAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre

One of the better research and rehabilitation facilities in Borneo, Sepilok is also one of the easiest and most accessible places to see rescued orangutans. View them up close at feeding platforms and at the recently opened orphanage nursery, where, from the comfort of an air-conditioned room, you can sit and watch the youngsters taken through their comedic paces as they learn to climb. Right next to it is the Borneo Sun Bear Conservation Centre, where sun bears are rehabilitated for eventual release.

ANGUS MCCOMISKEY/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

Top Experiences

Cross-Borneo Trek

Welcome to the triathlon of adventure travel! Starting on Borneo’s east coast, you travel hundreds of kilometres upriver, deep into the heart of one of the world’s most fabled jungles, trek through back-of-beyond hills like the explorers of old and then head down to the west coast on a thrilling white-water canoe ride. Along the way you’ll sample everything Kalimantan has to offer, from wildlife to Dayak culture to pure adrenaline. If you can’t do it all, the journey up the Mahakam River is great by itself.

ARNAIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Underwater World

The protected island of Sipadan in the Semporna Archipelago rightly has a reputation as one of the world’s top diving destinations. You spot so many turtles and reef sharks that they stop being a novelty, with the otherworldly shapes of hammerheads sometimes visible in the blue chasm where the reef falls away. But don’t neglect the reefs of Mabul, Kapalai or Mataking! Weird and wonderful smaller bounty, such as shrimps, octopus, lobsters and moray eels, call them home and the muck diving there is second to none.

Pulau Mabul | MUSLIAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Ulu Temburong National Park

From the sky, Brunei’s Temburong District looks like all of Borneo once did: an unbroken carpet of primary rainforest unblemished by roads, buildings or logging gashes. On the ground most of the sultanate’s eastern sliver is off-limits except to researchers, but you can get a taste of the primeval jungle at Ulu Temburong National Park. The only way in is with an exciting longboat ride, and once there you can climb into the jungle canopy or have wild fish nibble your feet in a cool stream.

Sungai Temburong | JENNIFER WAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Deramakot Forest Reserve

As the safari vehicle makes its way along the logging road in the fragrant night, with your guide’s help you become aware of the fact that the surrounding forest is teeming with life. Giant flying squirrels glide from tree to tree, a flash of spots or stripes in the undergrowth reveals a leopard cat or Malaysian civet and a tiny shape, moving high up in the canopy, turns out to be a slow loris. If you’re extremely lucky, you may even spot a clouded leopard.

Western tarsier | MIKE GORDON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Semenggoh Wildlife Centre

With freedom to roam the reserve’s rainforest and fruit trees, the semi-wild orangutans at Semenggoh Wildlife Centre in Sarawak are not guaranteed to show up at the twice-daily feeding sessions, but there’s a pretty good chance of catching the endlessly entertaining sight of our shaggy jungle cousins stuffing half a dozen bananas into their mouths, grabbing a coconut and then scrambling back up into the jungle canopy – swinging from tree to tree, dangling nonchalantly from vines and taking care of their adorable infants.

Orangutan | RMNUNES/GETTY IMAGES ©

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide

Currency

Brunei: dollar (B$)

Indonesia: rupiah (Rp)

Malaysia: ringgit (RM)

Language

Bahasa Malaysia, Bahasa Indonesia, Chinese dialects, indigenous languages.

Visas

Visas are issued on arrival for Malaysia, Brunei and Indonesia (Balikpapan, Tarakan, Pontianak or Tebedu–Entikong).

Money

ATMs widely available in cities and larger towns. Credit cards usually accepted at top-end establishments.

Mobile Phones

Prepaid local SIM cards are inexpensive. Use an unlocked 900/1800MHz phone.

Time

GMT/UTC plus eight hours in Sabah, Sarawak, Brunei and West and Central Kalimantan. GMT/UTC plus seven hours in East, North and South Kalimantan.

When to Go

Year-Round

A No especially good or bad season to visit; weather patterns are changing and becoming less reliable.

A Lowland areas always hot and humid.

A Rain a real possibility every day, all year.

‘Wet’ Season (Oct–Feb)

A Indistinct wet season October to February; can affect boat links to islands and visibility for divers.

A Rains can render Kalimantan’s dirt roads impassable.

A Wildlife more difficult to spot.

High Season (Jun–Sep)

A Accommodation and trekking guides likely to be booked out.

A Best diving visibility in the Semporna Archipelago.

A Catch the indi-genous rice-harvest festivals around Borneo in June and visit the sultan’s palace during Hari Raya.

Useful Websites

Brunei Tourism (http://tourismbrunei.travel) Lots of great info.

Sabah Parks (www.sabahparks.org.my) Sabah’s national parks.

Sabah Tourism (www.sabahtourism.com) Official tourism site.

Sarawak Forestry (www.sarawakforestry.com) Sarawak’s national parks.

Sarawak Tourism (www.sarawaktourism.com) Official site.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

Important Numbers

Country codes for Borneo:

Exchange Rates

For current exchange rates see www.xe.com.

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than US$40

A Dorm bed: US$8–15

A Meals at food stalls, self-catering at fruit and veg markets: US$2–4

A National park admission: US$7 (Malaysia), US$11 (Indonesia)

A Museums: Almost all are free

Midrange: US$40–80

A Air-con double room with bathroom: from US$25

A Meals at all but the priciest restaurants: US$7–15

A Taxis, chartered motorboats or tours to nature sites: US$10–50

Top end: More than US$80

A Luxury double room: US$100

A Seafood dinner: US$8–20 per 1kg

Opening Hours

All businesses in Brunei close from noon until 2pm on Fridays. In all of Borneo business hours may be shorter during Ramadan.

Banks 10am–3pm or 4pm weekdays and 9.30am–11.30am Saturday

Restaurants 11.30am–10pm

Cafes 6am or 7am until early or late afternoon

Shops 9.30am–7pm (10am–10pm for shopping malls)

Arriving in Borneo

Sabah & Sarawak Major airports, such as Kuching, Kota Kinabalu and Miri, have ATMs, car-rental desks, kiosks selling SIM cards, and orderly taxi queues with fixed prices and vouchers for trips into town.

Brunei Brunei International Airport has ATMs, mobile-phone shops selling SIM cards, car-rental desks and bus connections with the centre of Bandar Seri Begawan. City tours are available for transit passengers. Singapore dollars are universally accepted, with a conversion rate of one to one.

Kalimantan Taxis and other conveyances meet all incoming flights.

Getting Around

Boats and planes are often the best or only option to reach the places that asphalt roads don’t.

Bus Frequent buses link major cities in Sarawak, Brunei, Sabah and Kalimantan.

Plane Short-haul flights connect towns and outlying villages across Sarawak and Sabah and major towns in Kalimantan.

Express ferries and speedboats Boat services link coastal and river towns in Sarawak, Sabah, Brunei and Kalimantan.

Motorised longboat Often the only form of transport to remote villages, longhouses and national parks.

For more information, see Getting Around

First Time Borneo

For more information, see Survival Guide

Checklist

A Make sure your passport is valid for at least six months past your arrival date

A Get your Indonesian visa in advance and check whether you need one for Malaysia and Brunei

A Inform your debit-/credit-card company you’re heading away

A Arrange for appropriate travel insurance

A Get all your prescription medicine, inoculations and antimalarial treatment in advance

What to Pack

A Good trekking shoes

A Rain poncho – they don’t call it a rainforest for nothing

A Warm jacket, hat and gloves if planning on ascending Mt Kinabalu or Mt Trusmadi

A Leech socks – to avoid becoming a moveable feast

A A UK electrical charger

A Mosquito-net tent

Top Tips for Your Trip

A Have your heart set on diving at Sipadan, trekking in Gunung Mulu, remote jungle exploration in Kalimantan or scaling Mt Kinabalu? Make arrangements months in advance for high season.

A Don’t spread yourself too thin: pick the Borneo highlights you’d like to focus on, rather than trying to see the whole island in a short space of time, and allow for weather-induced delays and cancellations that may affect your travel in remoter parts of the island.

A Bring plenty of local cash (in small denominations) if planning to travel extensively in remoter parts.

A Manage your expectations. If you’re looking to immerse yourself in indigenous culture, bear in mind that many communities now live with trappings of modernity rather than exactly as their ancestors did. As for Borneo’s impenetrable primary jungle of yore, tracts of it now frequently border palm-oil plantations.

What to Wear

Borneo has a tropical, humid climate, with the exception of the highlands, where you’ll want warm layers, particularly at night. Pack quick-drying T-shirts, shirts and trekking pants, shorts and swimwear for beaches and diving resorts and casual footwear: hiking shoes, hiking sandals and boots if planning on trekking, and flip-flops for everywhere else. Since there’s strong Muslim culture in Borneo (particularly in Kalimantan and Brunei), you’ll want attire that covers your shoulders and knees if you’re female, and something other than shorts if you’re male. A rain poncho is indispensable.

Sleeping

Borneo has a wide range of accommodation, particularly in Sabah and Sarawak. It’s a good idea to book ahead for July and August. In smaller towns, on outlying islands and in the hinterlands, your options may be limited to very simple lodgings.

Formal Greetings

If you’re addressing a stranger, it’s polite to greet them formally, with the greeting depending on the time of day:

Selamat pagi       Good morning

Selamat sore      Good afternoon

Selamat malam   Good evening

Selamat malam   Good night

Bargaining

Some bargaining is permitted at markets and over hotel room prices outside high season. In shops you’re largely expected to pay the set price.

Tipping

Hotels In high-end hotels, a small tip per bag is appreciated; gratuity for cleaning staff completely at your discretion.

Restaurants High-end restaurants may add a 10% gratuity to your bill; otherwise tipping at your discretion.

Taxis No tipping required.

Tour guides Tips at the end of a tour not expected but highly appreciated.

Hikers at a viewpoint, Mt Kinabalu, Sabah | YUSNIZAM YUSOF/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Etiquette

Greetings Local men will typically shake hands with foreign men, but sometimes not women. Muslim women sometimes won’t shake hands with foreign men. Handshakes are typically a soft press of the hands, with the right hand then raised to touch your heart. If not shaking hands, it’s fine to touch your heart in greeting instead.

Eating If eating with your hands, never touch the food with your left hand; according to Islamic beliefs, that’s the ‘unclean’ hand used for toileting.

Bathing Swimwear is fine at beach resorts, but if you stay with an indigenous community, you’re expected to cover up while bathing (swimming in shorts and T-shirt is fine).

Shoes Remove your shoes before entering a house or longhouse. Bathroom thongs (flip-flops) are usually provided.

Visiting indigenous communities Always pay your respects to the chief of the longhouse first.

Eating

Positioned near Southeast Asia’s historical trade, immigration and colonisation routes, Borneo’s cuisines include Malay food, dishes from provinces of southern China and even food from southern India, as well as indigenous (Dayak) fare based on ingredients that grow in the rainforest. Kota Kinabalu (KK), Kuching and Bandar Seri Begawan (BSB) have the most diverse dining scenes in Borneo. For more, see here.

What’s New

Deramakot Forest Reserve

Gaining popularity with fans of Borneo’s wildlife, the Deramakot Forest Reserve is one of the best places in Sabah to spot the likes of leopard cats, civets, various monkey species and birdlife, with limited visitor numbers.

Softwoods Plantation

Excellent chances of spotting pygmy elephants on an early morning or afternoon drive through this eucalyptus plantation, open to visitors as of 2018, plus you can help replant the wildlife corridor between Tawau Hills and Danum Valley.

A-Square Night Market

KK’s exciting new street food market, with dozens of stalls serving everything from laksa and gourmet burgers to indigenous Sabah specialities, such as hinava (raw fish pickled with fresh lime juice, chilli padi, sliced shallots and grated ginger) and wild ferns.

Imbak Canyon

Popular new protected area where you can hike to beautiful waterfalls and go on guided wildlife-watching hikes and night safaris.

Ranee Museum

Situated in Kuching’s wonderfully restored Old Courthouse, the Ranee Museum illuminates the fascinating story of Margaret, Lady Brooke, Ranee of Sarawak.

Rainforest Fringe

An exciting and energetic festival of music, dance, art and photography held in Kuching as a background to the annual Rainforest World Music Festival.

Darul Hana Bridge

Constructed in the shape of a graceful ‘S’ (for Sarawak), Kuching’s spectacular new pedestrian bridge links the city’s northern and southern banks.

Marina Parkcity

Featuring modern cafes, cool bars and innovative bistros, Miri’s new Marina Parkcity neighbourhood is becoming an essential after-dark destination.

Samarinda & Sintang Airports

Air travel in Kalimantan is rapidly improving. Samarinda and Sintang had brand new airports open in 2018, with the expectation of increased air traffic and larger jets able to use extended runways.

Canopy Center Hostel

Pontianak’s first genuine backpacker hostel is a great place to connect with other travellers. It also doubles as an excellent cafe and home of Canopy Indonesia tours.

Virgin Cocoa

Flash new luxury island resort in Maratua Atoll, Derawan – a good diving and snorkelling destination, or just a place to relax in the spa and do yoga stretches at sunrise.

My Home

This new chain of budget hotels offers comfortable and affordable city accommodation in Pontianak, Sintang and Balikpapan.

For more recommendations and reviews, see lonelyplanet.com/borneo

If You Like…

Trekking

Kinabalu National Park Climb the summit of Borneo’s highest mountain or wander the park’s picturesque trails.

Gunung Mulu National Park Options include the Pinnacles hike and climbing Gunung Mulu itself.

Mt Trusmadi Not as tall at Mt Kinabalu, but a steeper, more relentless challenge.

Salt Trail Sabah’s most challenging multiday trek involves steep climbs and serious river crossings.

Maliau Basin Conservation Area Tough hikes through ancient forest; swim in waterfalls and machete-slash through jungle.

Bario to Ba Kelalan A classic three- to four-day trek through the Kelabit Highlands.

Meratus Mountains Trails from Loksado criss-cross forested valleys.

Muller Mountains Borneo’s most remote mountain range.

Wildlife

Deramakot Forest Reserve Leopard cats, civets, slow loris and even clouded leopards reside in this remote part of Sabah.

Semenggoh Wildlife Centre One of the easiest places to see semi-wild orangutans.

Sungai Kinabatangan Wild orangutans, numerous monkey species and pygmy elephants are often spotted along the riverbanks.

Tanjung Puting National Park Combine semi-wild orangutan spotting with an unforgettable boat trip.

Softwoods Plantation Go pygmy elephant spotting in a eucalyptus plantation on the back of a pickup truck.

Tawau Hills Park One of the best places in Sabah for spotting hornbills, frogs and snakes.

Batang Ai National Park Catch a glimpse of wild orangutans on a trek through the park and beyond.

Gunung Palung National Park Accessible park with wild orangutans, gibbons, sun bears and clouded leopards.

Indigenous Culture

Kelabit Highlands One of the best places in Borneo to hike from longhouse to longhouse.

Batang Ai Region Old-time Iban longhouses, many accessible only by boat.

Orou Sapulot Stay in a Murut longhouse, go jungle trekking, cave exploring and swimming in waterfalls.

Upper Sungai Mahakam Dayak culture in the heart of Borneo.

Tip of Borneo Walk or cycle between friendly Rungus villages, or stay in a traditional longhouse.

Kapuas Hulu Some of Kalimantan’s oldest and most welcoming longhouse communities are around Putussibau.

Pegunungan Meratus Animist beliefs are strong in these mountain communities.

Western Sarawak Bidayuh longhouses and the Sarawak Cultural Village.

Long Pasia The friendly Lundayeh in this remote village will take you hunting, foraging or jungle trekking.

River Trips

Tanjung Puting National Park The shores of Sungai Sekonyer teem with macaques, orangutans and crocs up towards Camp Leakey.

Sungai Mahakam The further upriver you go, the wilder the wildlife.

Sungai Kinabatangan An ark’s worth of animals, plus travel from the Deramakot Forest Reserve to the sea.

Batang Rejang Take a ‘flying coffin’ river express to Belaga.

Multicultural Cities

Kuching Fantastic for strolling, with 19th-century forts, two Chinatowns and excellent cuisine for every budget.

Bandar Seri Begawan The world’s largest water village, two stunning mosques and a stellar dining scene.

Balikpapan Kalimantan’s cosmopolitan city offers live music and a youthful nightlife that transcends the usual karaoke clubs.

Kota Kinabalu Good museums, superb dining scene and bustling street markets are highlights of this cosmopolitan city.

Kampong Ayer, Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei Darussalam | MILOSZ MASLANKA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Exploring Caves

Gunung Mulu National Park Some of the world’s most spectacular caves, dripping with stalactites, are home to millions of bats.

Gomantong Caves The splendour of the cathedral-like grand chamber eclipses the pungent presence of bat guano.

Niah National Park Niah’s enormous caverns, once home to prehistoric humans, are easy to explore on boardwalks.

Wind Cave & Fairy Cave Stairs and paths make it possible to visit these caves unaccompanied.

Agop Batu Tulug Climb some steep stairs to check out the 900-year-old ironwood coffins of the Orang Sungai.

Cave, Gunung Mulu National Park, Sarawak | ZODEBALA/GETTY IMAGES ©

Month by Month

TOP EVENTS

Rainforest World Music Festival, July

Gawai Dayak, June

Harvest Festival, May

Chinese New Year, February

Hari Raya Puasa, June

January

Some of the highest rainfall of the year, particularly in Sarawak. Occasional rough seas and poor underwater visibility.

February

The weather is hot and humid, with rain always likely. February is one of the wettest months of the year in Kuching (Sarawak) and Banjarmasin (South Kalimantan). The seas off Sarawak and around Kalimantan’s Derawan Archipelago can be rough.

z Chinese New Year

Borneo’s Chinese communities, especially large in Kuching and Sibu in Sarawak and Singkawang in Kalimantan, welcome the New Year with bright red lanterns, lion and dragon dances, drums, night markets and fireworks. Some years the Chinese New Year kicks off in January.

March

Generally dry weather, particularly in Sabah – good for trekking and visiting the islands. Low visitor numbers, plus whale sharks make an appearance.

April

Shoulder month between two monsoons, with particularly hot and dry weather in Sabah – good for jungle trekking and island hopping.

2 Baleh-Kapit Raft Safari

This challenging race, spread over two days, re-creates the experience of the Iban and Orang Ulu people who used to travel downstream by raft to bring their jungle produce to Kapit. Held in late spring, often in April.

z Regatta Lepa

The Bajau sea gypsies of Semporna (Sabah) deck out their lepa (boats) with streamers, bunting, flags, ceremonial umbrellas and gorgeously decorated sails. The mid-April weekend festivities are further animated with violin, cymbal and drum music, and tug-of-war contests with boats.

May

This quiet, mostly dry month before the school holidays is a good time for trekking and diving.

3 Borneo Jazz Festival

An eclectic assemblage of international artists makes the Borneo Jazz Festival (www.jazzborneo.com) – held in Miri in Sarawak on a weekend in mid-May – Borneo’s premier jazz event.

z Ramadan

During the month of Ramadan, Muslims abstain from eating and drinking during daylight hours. Food markets pop up in cities and celebratory meals to break the fast are held after sundown.

z Harvest Festival

Rice is the key staple for Sabah’s indigenous groups. To mark the annual harvest, people gather in their home villages on 30 and 31 May for a thanksgiving festival, also known as Pesta Kaamatan, that involves much rice wine.

Harvest festival performance, Kota Kinabalu, Sabah | HKHTT HJ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

June

June is the wettest month of the year in Balikpapan. It’s fruiting season, so it’s easier to spot orangutans in the jungle. As it’s the northern hemisphere summer, tourist numbers rise.

z Gawai Dayak

Official holiday (31 May to 2 June) in Sarawak (also celebrated in West Kalimantan and by Brunei’s Iban), Gawai marks the end of the rice harvest. Folks return to their longhouses to make music, eat and drink rice wine.

z Hari Raya Puasa

This three-day Muslim holiday marks the end of the fasting month of Ramadan. Many people travel to their hometowns, with transport booked up well in advance. The Sultan of Brunei opens his palace to visitors.

July

The driest month in Kuching, but expect rain nonetheless. Northern hemisphere tourist numbers are high so consider booking guides for treks and tours in advance.

z Bario Pesta Nuneken Festival

Visitors flock to the Kelabit Highlands in Sarawak for July’s three-day Bario Pesta Nukenen Festival. Cultural performances incorporate delicacies including wild spinach, asparagus and ginger, and plenty of sweet and juicy Bario pineapples.

z Borneo Cultural Festival

An exuberant week-long festival in Sibu of food, music and dance representing Central Sarawak’s Chinese, Iban, Bidayuh, Orang Ulu and Malay-Melanau cultures and traditions.

3 Sultan of Brunei’s Birthday

Colourful official ceremonies are held on 15 July to mark the birthday of Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah. In Bandar Seri Begawan, events include an elaborate military ceremony and cannon-firing presided over by the sultan himself.

3 Rainforest World Music Festival

This three-day musical extravaganza (www.rwmf.net), held in the Sarawak Cultural Village near Kuching in July or August, brings together local bands and international artists. Accommodation fills up long in advance.

z Rainforest Fringe

Kuching’s arty and alternative side is showcased with 10 days of music, art, dance and photography leading up to and during the city’s annual Rainforest World Music Festival.

August

While August is the driest month in Banjarmasin (South Kalimantan), rain is always likely. Northern hemisphere tourist numbers remain high. Good time of year for wildlife spotting.

z Erau Festival

The Erau Festival sees thousands of Dayaks from all over Kalimantan converging in Tenggarong in a whirl of tribal costumes, ceremony and dance – an international celebration of traditional cultures.

z Hungry Ghost Festival

On the 15th day of the seventh Chinese lunar month, when ghosts are free to roam the earth, offerings of food, prayer, incense and (fake) paper money are made to appease the spirits of the deceased.

5 Kuching Festival Fair

For three weeks in late July and August, scores of evening stalls serve the delicious dishes of Kuching’s various Chinese communities, Nonya desserts and beer. Held about 2km southeast of the city centre, next to Kuching South City Hall (MBKS Building).

September

Haze from forest and field-clearance fires in Indonesia create urban smog across the region, particularly in western Sarawak. Good weather for wildlife spotting in Sabah.

z Belaga Rainforest Challenge

Orang Ulu longhouses along the Batang Rejang share their music, dance, traditional costumes and cuisines with each other and visitors. Competitions include boat races and a 20km jungle run. Held in even-numbered years, it lasts for five days.

2 Borneo Inter-national Kite Festival

Held on the runway of the old airport in Bintulu, this festival (www.borneokite.com) brings an array of kites to Borneo’s natural-gas capital. Takes place in September or October.

z Mooncake Festival

Colourful festivities, musical performances and stalls selling food, drink and, of course, mooncakes take over Jalan Carpenter in Kuching’s Chinatown for about a week.

Mooncakes and other treats at the Mooncake Festival, Kuching, Sarawak | TWOMEOWS/GETTY IMAGES ©

z Borneo Arts Festival

Pulau Labuan’s biggest culture fest, with live music and a variety of cultural events over three days.

October

Rains tend to set in by the end of the month, but it’s otherwise a good time to dive in Sipadan and see orangutans in the wild.

z Diwali

The Hindu ‘Festival of Lights’ is celebrated throughout Borneo, with gifts exchanged and an open-house policy.

z What About Kuching

This community-led festival presents a month of cultural, art and musical events all around Kuching.

December

Rainy season all over Borneo, though Sabah gets less rainfall. Rough seas and poor diving visibility.

Plan Your Trip