Lonely Planet South India & Kerala

South India & Kerala

Contents

Plan Your Trip

Welcome to South India & Kerala

South India & Kerala’s Top 12

Need to Know

What’s New

If You Like…

Month by Month

Itineraries

Booking Trains

Yoga, Spas & Spiritual Pursuits

Volunteering

Travel with Children

Regions at a Glance

On The Road

MUMBAI (BOMBAY)

History

Sights

Activities

Courses

Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

MAHARASHTRA

Northern Maharashtra

Nashik

Around Nashik

Aurangabad

Ellora

Ajanta

Jalgaon

Nagpur

Around Nagpur

Southern Maharashtra

Konkan Coast

Matheran

Lonavla

Pune

Around Pune

Kolhapur

Mahabaleshwar

GOA

Panaji & Central Goa

Panaji

Old Goa

North Goa

Mapusa

Candolim

Calangute & Baga

Anjuna

Assagao

Vagator & Chapora

Morjim

Asvem

Mandrem

Arambol (Harmal)

South Goa

Margao

Colva

Benaulim

Agonda

Palolem

Patnem

Ancient & Historic Sites

KARNATAKA

Bengaluru (Bangalore)

Southern Karnataka

Hesaraghatta

Mysuru (Mysore)

Around Mysuru

Bandipur National Park

Nagarhole National Park

Kodagu (Coorg) Region

Hassan

Belur

Halebid

Sravanabelagola

Karnataka Coast

Mangaluru (Mangalore)

Dharmasthala

Udupi

Malpe

Gokarna

Central Karnataka

Hampi

Anegundi

Hosapete (Hospet)

Hubballi (Hubli)

Northern Karnataka

Badami

Around Badami

Vijapura (Bijapur)

Bidar

TELANGANA & ANDHRA PRADESH

Telangana

Hyderabad

Bhongir

Warangal

Palampet

Andhra Pradesh

Vijayawada

Amaravathi

Nagarjunakonda

Visakhapatnam

Around Visakhapatnam

Tirumala & Tirupati

Around Tirumala & Tirupati

KERALA

Southern Kerala

Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum)

Kovalam

Varkala

Kollam (Quilon)

Around Kollam

Alappuzha (Alleppey)

Marari & Kattoor

Kottayam

Kumarakom

Kerala’s Western Ghats

Periyar Tiger Reserve

Munnar

Around Munnar

Central Kerala

Kochi (Cochin)

Around Kochi

Thrissur (Trichur)

Around Thrissur

Northern Kerala

Kozhikode (Calicut)

Wayanad Region

Kannur & Around

Bekal & Around

Lakshadweep

Kerala Feature

TAMIL NADU

Chennai (Madras)

Northern Tamil Nadu

East Coast Road

Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram)

Kanchipuram

Tiruvannamalai

Puducherry (Pondicherry)

Auroville

Central Tamil Nadu

Chidambaram

Tharangambadi (Tranquebar)

Kumbakonam

Thanjavur (Tanjore)

Trichy (Tiruchirappalli)

Southern Tamil Nadu

Chettinadu

Madurai

Rameswaram

Kanyakumari (Cape Comorin)

The Western Ghats

Kodaikanal (Kodai)

Coimbatore

Coonoor

Kotagiri

Ooty (Udhagamandalam)

Mudumalai Tiger Reserve

Anamalai Tiger Reserve (Indira Gandhi Wildlife Sanctuary & National Park)

ANDAMAN ISLANDS

Port Blair

Around Port Blair

Havelock Island (Swaraj Dweep)

Neil Island (Shaheed Dweep)

Middle & North Andaman

Little Andaman

Understand

South India Today

History

The Way Of Life

Spiritual India

Delicious India

The Great Indian Bazaar

The Arts

Architectural Splendour

Wildlife & Landscape

Survive Guide

Scams

Women & Solo Travellers

Directory A-Z

Accessible Travel

Accommodation

Customs Regulations

Electricity

Embassies & Consulates

Food

Insurance

Internet Access

Legal Matters

LGBT+ Travellers

Maps

Money

Opening Hours

Photography

Post

Public Holidays

Safe Travel

Telephone

Time

Toilets

Tourist Information

Visas

Transport

Getting There & Away

Getting Around

Health

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

Welcome to South India & Kerala

Like a giant wedge plunging into the ocean, South India is the subcontinent’s steamy heartland – a lush contrast to the peaks and plains up north.

A Fabulous Heritage

Wherever you go in the south you’ll uncover splendid relics of the many civilisations that have inhabited this land over two millennia. The spectacular rock-cut shrines carved out by Buddhists, Hindus and Jains at Ajanta and Ellora; the palaces, tombs, forts and mosques of Muslim dynasties on the Deccan plateau; Tamil Nadu’s inspired Pallava sculptures and towering Chola temples; the magical ruins of the Vijayanagar capital at Hampi…and so much more that you’d need a multitude of incarnations to see it all. It’s a diverse cultural treasure trove with few parallels, in the land that also gave birth to yoga.

Luscious Landscapes

Thousands of kilometres of cascading coastline frame fertile plains, glinting backwaters and rolling hills in South India – a constantly changing landscape kept glisteningly green by the double-barrelled monsoon. The palm-strung strands and inland waterways of the west give way to spice gardens, emerald tea plantations, tropical forests and cool hill-station retreats in the Western Ghats. The drier Deccan ‘plateau’ is far from flat, criss-crossed by numerous craggy ranges and often spattered with dramatic, fort-topped outcrops. Across the region, protected wild forests shelter a world of wildlife, from elephants and tigers to monkeys, deer and sloth bears.

Culinary Delights

South India’s glorious culinary variety and melange of dining options are an adventure in their own right. Some of India’s most famous and traditional staples hail from here: large papery dosas (savoury crêpes) and fluffy idlis (fermented rice cakes) are the backbone of South Indian cooking. Mouth-watering Mumbai is India’s top destination for gastronomic indulgence, be it hole-in-the-wall street food or haute-cuisine wizardry. Goa’s spicy, Portuguese-influenced cuisine is fiery inventive fusion at its finest; Kerala’s coconut-infused seafood is the stuff of legend; and, everywhere you travel, the humble South Indian kaapi (filter coffee) keeps things ticking over.

Sophisticated Cities

The south’s vibrant cities are the pulse of a country that is fast-forwarding through the 21st century while also at times remaining staunchly traditional. From in-yer-face Mumbai and increasingly sophisticated Chennai to historic Hyderabad, IT capital Bengaluru (Bangalore) and charming, colonial-era Kochi (Cochin) and Puducherry (Pondicherry), southern cities are great for browsing teeming markets, soaking up local history and indulging in India’s more fashionable side – from arty coffee houses and chic boutiques to an explosion of hipsterised microbreweries and cocktail bars.

Tea plantations near Munnar, Kerala | DMITRY RUKHLENKO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Why I Love South India & Kerala

By Isabella Noble, Writer

My first taste of South India was a masala dosa at Shimla’s Indian Coffee House, and I knew then that the south was calling. Whether it’s Kerala’s fiery sunsets, Tamil Nadu’s incense-cloaked temples, the forested Western Ghats or the glint of a sparkly sari in a heaving bazaar, the many, multifaceted charms of the south unravel subtly, like the intricate spices of its cuisines. I’ll always have a soft spot for palm-studded, backwater-laced Kerala; the Andamans’ turquoise shallows; and architecturally fascinating Chettinadu. South India may be hot and often hectic, but it never fails to surprise and broaden the mind – and, inevitably, lure you back.

For more see, our writers

South India & Kerala’s Top 12

Kerala’s Beautiful Backwaters

Around 900km of interconnected rivers, twinkling lakes and glassy lagoons lined with lush tropical flora converge in Kerala’s sublime backwaters. And there’s no more serene and intimate way to experience them than aboard a teak-and-palm-thatch houseboat, a silently roaming kayak or a punt-powered canoe from Alappuzha (Alleppey). Float along the water as the sun sinks behind whispering palms, feast on gloriously fresh seafood, pop into tiny water-ringed villages, witness the sun rising above rippling waves – and forget about life on land for a while.

DMITRY RUKHLENKO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Golden Goa

Silken sand, gently crashing waves, rich coconut groves, flaming-pink sunsets – if there’s one place in India that effortlessly fulfils every beach paradise cliché, it’s Goa. With few exceptions Goa’s beaches, from mellow Mandrem to charming Palolem, are a riot of activity, with a constant cavalcade of roaming sarong vendors, stacks of ramshackle beachside eateries and oiled bodies slowly baking on row after row of sun lounges. Goa is also loved for its inland spice plantations, flavour-filled seafood-fired cuisine and fine heritage buildings, most notably handsome Portuguese-era cathedrals.

Vagator Beach | SAIKO3P / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Enigmatic Hampi

Today’s surreal boulderscape of Hampi was once glorious Vijayanagar, capital of a powerful Hindu empire. Still glorious in ruin, its temples and royal structures combine with the terrain in mystical ways: giant rocks balance on skinny pedestals near an ancient elephant garage; temples tuck into crevices between boulders; and round coracle boats float by rice paddies, palm groves and bathing buffalo, near a gargantuan bathtub for a queen. As the sunset casts a rosy glow over this extraordinary landscape, you might just forget what planet you’re on.

PIKOSO.KZ / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Maharashtra’s Astounding Ancient Caves

The 2nd-century-BC Buddhist monks who created the Ajanta caves had an eye for the dramatic, as the rock-cut shrines and monasteries punctuating a horseshoe-shaped cliff attest. Centuries later, monks added exquisite carvings and paintings. Along an escarpment at Ellora, less than 150km to the southwest, Hindus, Jains and Buddhists spent five centuries carving out another 34 elaborate shrines and monasteries, plus Kailasa Temple, the world’s biggest monolithic structure.

CASPER1774 STUDIO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Out in the Wild

Disappearing into the wild jungles, bush and hills of South India, where dozens of parks and protected spaces await, is always a thrill. Maharashtra’s Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve has some of India’s best tiger-spotting chances, while Mudumalai Tiger Reserve as one of the country’s highest tiger population densities. Nagarhole National Park, Periyar Tiger Reserve and Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary are top wild-elephant territory. In almost any park you can expect to spy a range of deer, buffalo, primates and plenty of birds; and the landscapes themselves are always soul-stirringly stunning.

SUSHIL KUMUDINI CHIKANE / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Ooty & the Western Ghats

The palm-fringed beaches, pancake-flat plains and temple-tastic cities are all well and good, but it gets hot down there! India’s princes and British colonials retreated to cool mountain towns such as Ooty (Udhagamandalam), Kodaikanal, Coonoor and Kotagiri to escape the relentless lowland heat. Today, Tamil Nadu’s hill stations still serve up plenty of crisp air, shady forests, scenic viewpoints, sprawling tea plantations and quirky echoes-of-the-Raj charm.

ARUN KUMAR M P / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Mumbai’s Architectural Gems

Mumbai has long embraced global influences and made them its own. The result is a heady architectural melange of buildings with a raft of design influences. Modern towers lend the city its cosmopolitan air, but it’s the eclectic, newly Unesco-listed art deco and Victorian-era structures – with Indo-Saracenic, Venetian Gothic and other old flourishes – that have made Mumbai the flamboyant beauty it is. All those spires, arches and puffy onion domes, offset by lofty palms and leafy banyans, complete this head-spinning cocktail.

SAIKO3P / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Tamil Temples

Opening through soaring, intricately carved gopurams (gateway towers), Tamil Nadu’s temples are a feast of deftly crafted pillars, vibrantly painted murals and glittering tanks of holy water. Madurai’s joyful Meenakshi Amman Temple, surrounded by 12 lofty gopurams encrusted with thousands of technicolor deities, demons and heroes, is rightly considered the high point of South India’s spectacular temple architecture. It’s closely rivalled by the elegant, World Heritage–listed Brihadishwara Temple at Thanjavur (Tanjore), dating back to the 11th century.

MILOSK50 / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Historic Hyderabad

Bustling Hyderabad tempts history lovers with its fascinating past and oodles of historic attractions, including massive Golconda Fort, the graceful Charminar mosque-monument, and the magnificent tombs and palaces of bygone rulers, such as the majestic Qutb Shahi Tombs, now nominated for World Heritage status. But it’s also a city of dizzying bazaars, qawwali devotional song and deliciously inventive cuisine, acclaimed for its traditional Mughal-style spicy kebabs and biryanis and unique Ramadan dishes.

NICO FARAMAZ / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Puducherry Savoir Faire

A seaside pocket of France surrounded by Tamil Nadu? Pourquoi pas? In this former French colony, mango-yellow houses line cobbled rues, imposing cathedrals are adorned with architectural frou-frou, and the croissants are the real deal. But Puducherry (Pondicherry) is also a classic Indian town – with all the history and hubbub that involves – and a popular retreat, with the Sri Aurobindo Ashram at its heart and its offshoot Auro-ville nearby. Turns out that yoga, pain au chocolat, heritage hotels, Hindu deities and colonial-era architecture make for a très atmospheric mix.

JAS PHOTO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Majestic Mysuru

Welcome to Mysuru (Mysore) – a city whose name describes the spot where a brave goddess conquered a ferocious demon. Apart from its history and flamboyant palaces, it’s a place for leisurely wanders through ancient bazaars filled with intoxicating aromas of sandalwood and fresh flowers. Mysuru is also a world-renowned yoga centre, famous for ashtanga yoga, and is known for its energetic festivals. Dussehra, celebrating the triumph of good over evil, is one of the most spectacular occasions, with the dazzling illumination of the 1912 Mysuru Palace.

FOOFA JEARANAISIL / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Andaman Island Eden

If lazing on beaches and diving into the deep is your thing, seek out the blissfully distant Andaman Islands. A world away from India’s urban jungles, this slice of paradise has so far largely managed to retain its untouched beauty. The inhabitants are a mix of South and Southeast Asian settlers, as well as indigenous tribal groups. The islands, especially Havelock (Swaraj Dweep), are blessed with aquamarine waters and white shores backed by impassable rainforest, offering outstanding snorkelling and diving. Permit restrictions were eased in 2018.

NICKOLAY STANEV / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide

Currency

Indian rupee (₹)

Language

Tamil, Kannada, Konkani, Malayalam, Marathi and Telugu, in addition to Hindi and English

Visas

Many nationalities can obtain 60-day visas through India’s e-Visa scheme. For longer trips, most people get a six-month tourist visa, valid from the date of issue (not arrival).

Money

ATMs are widely available; credit/debit cards are accepted in midrange hotels, shops and restaurants, but it remains a cash-based economy.

Mobile Phones

Roaming connections are excellent in urban areas, poor in the countryside and hills. Local prepaid SIMs are widely available but you’ll have to wait 24 hours for activation.

Time

Indian Standard Time (GMT/UTC plus 5½ hours)

When to Go

High Season (Nov–Mar)

A Pleasant weather – warm days, coolish nights.

A Peak tourists. Peak prices. Peak festivals.

A December and January bring chilly nights in the hills and further north.

A Temperatures climb steadily from February.

Shoulder (Apr & Aug–Oct)

A Monsoon showers persist through to September.

A The eastern coast, Andamans and southern Kerala see heavy rain and sometimes cyclones from October to early December.

A Festivals abound.

Low Season (May–Jul)

A May and June are scorching. Competitive hotel prices.

A From June, the monsoon sweeps south to north, bringing draining humidity.

A Beat the heat (but not the crowds) in the cooler hills.

Useful Websites

Incredible India (www.incredibleindia.org) Official India tourism site.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/india) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

Templenet (www.templenet.com) Temple talk.

Rediff News (www.rediff.com/news) Portal for India-wide news.

The Alternative (www.thealternative.in) A green and socially conscious take on travel and Indian life.

Blogs and local media are also very handy resources.

Important Numbers

Exchange Rates

For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than ₹2500

A Hostel dorm bed: ₹400–₹1000

A All-you-can-eat thali (traditional plate meal): ₹80–₹300

A Transport: ₹200–₹600

Midrange: ₹2500–₹7500

A Double hotel/homestay room: ₹1500–₹5000

A Meal in a midrange restaurant: ₹300–₹1000

A Admission to sights and museums: ₹200–₹800

A 2AC train travel: ₹700–₹2000

Top end: More than ₹7500

A Boutique/heritage hotel room: from ₹5500

A Dinner with wine: ₹2000–₹4000

A Renting a car and driver: per day ₹2000–₹3000

A Guided tour or cooking class: ₹1200–₹3000

Opening Hours

Some outdoor-centric spots may close or alter their hours during the monsoon months (June to September).

Banks 10am to 4pm Monday to Friday, to 1pm Saturday

Bars noon to 11pm (as late as 1.30am in Mumbai)

Markets 7am to 8pm, but very variable

Restaurants 8am or 9am to 10pm or 11pm (but variable; some restaurants close between 3pm and 7pm, and others in metro cities may stay open until 1.30am)

Shops 10am or 11am to 8pm or 9pm (some close Sunday)

Arriving in South India

Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj International Airport, Mumbai Prepaid taxis cost ₹670/810 (non-AC/AC) to Colaba and Fort; ₹400/480 to Bandra. Off-peak UberGo costs ₹250 to ₹560. Suburban trains to Fort (from ₹10) run from Andheri, a ₹50 to ₹70 autorickshaw from the airport.

Kempegowda International Airport, Bengaluru Metered AC taxis to central Bengaluru cost ₹750 to ₹1000; Uber/Ola rates are ₹550 to ₹650. Air-con buses run regularly to the city (₹170 to ₹260); Flybus travels to Mysuru, Tirupati and other destinations.

Cochin International Airport, Kochi Air-con buses run to/from Fort Cochin (₹88) via Ernakulam or Vyttila. Prepaid/app taxis cost ₹880/700 (Ernakulam), ₹1250/1000 (Fort Cochin).

Chennai International Airport Prepaid taxis to central Chennai cost ₹450 to ₹650; Ola and Uber around ₹300. Metro Rail (₹50 to ₹70) whisks you to Teynampet, Egmore, CMBT and Central Railway Station.

Getting Around

Air Larger cities have affordable flights to other Indian cities.

Bus Buses go everywhere, at similar speeds to trains. Some routes are served 24 hours but others just one or two a day.

Car and driver Convenient option for multistop trips or trips to out-of-the-way places.

Motorcycle Many travellers hire scooters or motorcycles to zip around.

Train Railways criss-cross the country, with frequent, inexpensive services on most routes.

For much more, see Getting Around

What’s New

Airports Everywhere

Kannur’s international airport, which took off in 2018, is opening up northern Kerala, while a greenfield international airport at Mopa, North Goa, is slated for mid-2020. Hampi now has domestic links from upgraded Jindal Vijaynagar airport.

Third-Wave Coffee

Proper espresso has landed at Mumbai’s Koinonia Coffee Roasters and Blue Tokai, and the likes of Third Wave Coffee Roasters are bringing forward-thinking coffee culture to Bengaluru (Bangalore). Kochi’s (Cochin’s) arty coffee scene has exploded in recent years.

Hassle-Free Andamans

Permit requirements for the Andaman Islands were eased in 2018. Throw in two luxury destination properties – Taj Exotica and Jalakara – and these far-flung isles feel more seductive than ever.

Hostel Heaven

South India’s backpacker-hostel boom powers on (here): Zostel in Kochi, Alappuzha (Alleppey), Gokarna and Chennai; Chettinad Packer in Chettinadu; Backpacker Panda in Goa and Mumbai; Rainbow Lining and Wonderland Hostel in Goa; Beehive Hostel in Mysuru (Mysore); and Varkala’s Lost Hostel, among others.

Dhanushkodi

A new paved road whisks you across golden dunes to the evocatively ruined village of Dhanushkodi on India’s southeasternmost tip.

Goa Craft Beer

Goa’s love of beer (here) has brought the craft movement to its tropical shores, with fresh microbreweries flaunting their brews.

Taxi Apps

Uber and Ola Cabs (here) have revolutionised city travel across India. Both are banned in Goa, but Goa Tourism launched its own competitor app, Goa Miles, in 2018.

Mumbai Flavours

Hot arrivals on Mumbai’s dizzying, dazzling dining scene include Southeast Asian–inspired Miss T, courtesy of culinary royalty the Colaba Cartel, and home-dining pop-up sensation Bohri Kitchen.

Nashik Nights

Nashik’s wine scene continues to blossom, and you can now sleep off tastings at The Source at Sula, on the site of award-winning Sula Vineyards’ original winery.

Heritage Homestays

Thiruvananthapuram’s (Trivandrum’s) fabulous Padmavilasom Palace, reborn in 2018, delights with boutique sleeps in a 150-year-old royal Travancore home.

Mumbai–Goa Cruises

A luxury thrice-weekly cruise-ship-ferry between Mumbai and Goa, Angriya Cruises, kicked off sailings in 2018.

For more recommendations and reviews, see lonelyplanet.com/India

If You Like…

Beaches

South India is home to the country’s most breathtaking stretches of coastline.

Kerala Cliff-framed Varkala, up-and-coming Marari, and secluded, palm-fringed Thottada and Bekal are absolute visions.

Goa Despite the crowds, Goa’s beaches still shine: Cola, Agonda, Palolem and Mandrem are among the prettiest.

Andaman Islands Pristine tropical beaches far away from everything on Havelock (Swaraj Dweep), Neil (Shaheed Dweep) and Little Andaman.

Mumbai Hit Chowpatty Beach for local bhelpuri, people-watching and blazing-pink sunsets.

Maharashtra The Konkan Coast’s sun-soaked sands are less crowded than those of its neighbours, especially around Ganpatipule.

Kovalam (Covelong) A beachy surf, yoga and water-sports scene near Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram) in Tamil Nadu.

Temples & Ruins

Nowhere does grand temples like the subcontinent. From Tamil Nadu’s psychedelic Hindu towers to the faded splendour of the Buddhist caves of Ajanta and Ellora, the range is as vast as it is sublime.

Hampi Mighty Vijayanagar’s rosy-hued temples and crumbling palaces are strewn among otherworldly boulders and hills.

Meenakshi Amman Temple Fantastical structure that soars skyward in riotous rainbows of sculpted deities in Madurai (Tamil Nadu).

Thanjavur (Tanjore) The greatest heights of Chola (and Tamil) temple architecture.

Ajanta Magnificent, Unesco-listed Maharashtrian rock-cut temples, revered for their spiritual significance and architectural prowess.

Ellora Five centuries of extraordinary rock-cut temples chiselled by generations of Buddhist, Hindu and Jain monks in Maharashtra.

Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram) Exquisite medieval relief carvings, sculpted by Pallava artisans, and rock-cut temples dot this seaside Tamil town.

Forts & Palaces

South India’s history is a uniquely colourful tapestry of wrangling dynasties interwoven with influxes of seafaring traders. Their legacy lives on in a remarkable collection of palaces and forts.

Mysuru Palace A spectacular royal confection of rare artworks, stained glass, mosaics and beautifully carved wood.

Daulatabad Fort A magnificent Maharashtrian hilltop fortress constructed by Yadava kings throughout the 12th century.

Hyderabad Golconda Fort complements the opulent palaces and ethereal royal tombs of the city of pearls.

Janjira A remarkably preserved island fortress built off the Konkan Coast in 1571.

Bidar Fort So weathered and peaceful, it’s shocking that this marvellous 15th-century complex once commanded a powerful sultanate.

Gingee Fort Choose from three ruined citadels on the Tamil Nadu plains.

Meditation & Yoga

The art of well-being has long been ardently cultivated in the south. Numerous courses and treatments strive to heal mind, body and spirit, with meditation and yoga especially abundant.

Mysuru Home of ashtanga yoga; one of India’s most popular places to practise and get certified.

Goa Yoga, meditation and other spiritual-health pursuits are taught and practised chiefly between October and April.

Krishnamacharya Yoga Mandiram Well-known and highly regarded yoga courses, yoga therapy and intensive teacher training in Chennai.

Sivananda Yoga Vedanta Dhanwantari Ashram Yoga courses at Kerala’s respected ashram. Kerala, Kovalam, Varkala and Kochi have popular classes, too.

Vipassana International Academy Intensive meditation courses at one of the world’s largest vipassana meditation centres, in Igatpuri, Maharashtra.

Gokarna Drop-in classes in a wonderful, natural beachy environment.

Isha Yoga Center Yoga courses and meditation at a renowned ashram near Coimbatore.

International Centre for Yoga Education & Research Yoga training at an established Puducherry (Pondicherry) school.

Nature

South India offers plenty of opportunities to search for wild things in wild places.

Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary Remote, beautiful, unspoilt Keralan sanctuary with good chances of spotting wild elephants.

Nagarhole National Park Little-visited Karnataka park good for elephant sightings and – if you’re lucky! – a tiger or two.

Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve Top Indian tiger territory, plus gaurs, chital deer, nilgai antelope, sloth bears and leopards.

Periyar Tiger Reserve Popular Keralan sanctuary with gaurs, sambar deer, around 2000 elephants and a few tigers.

Mudumalai Tiger Reserve Tamil Nadu’s favourite wildlife spot: deer, gaurs, wild boars, langurs, wild elephants and a good number of (elusive) tigers.

Bandipur National Park Another much-loved Karnataka reserve.

Bazaars

Megamalls may be popping up like monsoon frogs in southern cities, but the traditional outdoor bazaars – their tangled lanes lined with everything from freshly ground spices and floral garlands to kitchen utensils and colourful saris – can’t be beat.

Goa Anjuna and Baga flea markets mesmerise; Margao, Mapusa and Panaji (Panjim) bazaars make for atmospheric wandering.

Mumbai Wonderful old markets are conveniently themed: Mangaldas (fabric), Zaveri (jewellery), Crawford (food) and Chor (antiques).

Mysuru (Mysore) The centuries-old Devaraja Market is filled with millions of flowers, fruits and spices.

Hyderabad Historic Charminar-area bazaars hawk everything from pearls and lac bangles to livestock and wedding outfits.

Chennai George Town’s frenzied bazaar streets each flog their own particular products, from paper to jewellery.

City Sophistication

It’s true that most Indians live in villages, but the southern cities have vibrant arts scenes, terrific multi-cuisine restaurants and oodles of style.

Mumbai Fashion, film, art, dining, nightlife against a backdrop of fanciful architecture and scenic water views.

Hyderabad The architecture of bygone dynasties sits across town from a refined food, nightlife and arts scene.

Bengaluru (Bangalore) Liberal and modern IT industry nucleus, superb for drinking, dining and shopping.

Nashik Surrounded by gorgeous vineyards, India’s wine-country capital lures juice-loving city sophisticates.

Puducherry (Pondicherry) Lively coastal town known for its charmingly faded French flavour, boho boutiques and arty cafes.

Chennai Long-standing urban hub which now hosts sophisticated luxury hotels, contemporary restaurants, boutiques and nightspots.

Pune Progressive Pune relishes in its juxtapositional relationship between cutting-edge capitalism and age-old spiritualism.

Kochi (Cochin) A growing arts, cafe and shopping scene graces Kerala’s central historical hub.

Hill Stations

The colonial-era tradition of heading for the cool, green elevations of South India’s Western Ghats when the plains get just too hot is alive and well among honeymooners, families and pretty much everyone else.

Ooty (Udhagamandalam) Tamil Nadu’s ‘Queen of Hill Stations’ combines Indian bustle with Raj-era bungalows and a miniature train.

Kodaikanal (Kodai) A smaller, quirkier, more scenic alternative to Ooty, centred on a pretty lake surrounded by shola (virgin forest).

Munnar Trek through jade-green Keralan tea plantations, then meet a local family at an out-of-town homestay.

Matheran A scenic and vehicle-free weekend retreat for Mumbaikars.

Kodagu (Coorg) Coffee and spices scent the fresh mountain air of this Karnataka region, with Madikeri its hub.

Coonoor Heritage hotels, tea plantations and hilly hikes await in the Nilgiri Hills near Ooty.

Traveller Enclaves

Sometimes you just want to stop moving for a bit and relax and swap stories with fellow travellers.

Hampi The stunning beauty of Hampi’s landscape and architecture sucks everyone in for a while.

Anjuna Goa is one big traveller enclave, but Anjuna, Palolem and cheaper Arambol are its current epicentres.

Gokarna Cosy, beautiful and relaxed beaches that form part of a sacred village in Karnataka.

Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram) Cheap accommodation, striking ancient architecture and a booming surf scene on Tamil Nadu’s coast.

Colaba Mumbai’s boisterous melange of street stalls, classic watering holes, budget accommodation and bucket-list tourist sights.

Varkala Charming guesthouses, yoga shalas and traveller-packed cafes cling to cliffs above surf-tastic waves in Kerala.

Water Sports

Diving, snorkelling, surfing, SUP, kayaking and an array of other water sports are growing rapidly along South India’s coasts.

Andaman Islands World-class diving and snorkelling in crystal-clear, coral- and marine-life-rich waters – 1370km east of mainland India.

Tamil Nadu Surf’s up in Kovalam, Mamallapuram and Puducherry; Rameswaram has kitesurfing, kayaking, snorkelling, SUP and more.

Goa Gentle waves perfect for beginner surfers at Aswem and Agonda, and scuba diving at Grande Island.

Malvan India’s little diving-destination-that-could: caves, coral, marine life and a top-class scuba school.

Lakshadweep Pristine lagoons and unspoilt coral reefs 300km off Kerala have wonderful diving and snorkelling.

Varkala Surfing, kayaking and SUP from this temple/traveller town in southern Kerala.

Boat Trips

Seeing South India from the water offers a whole new angle on its attractions.

Alappuzha (Alleppey) Houseboat, kayak or canoe drifting from Kerala’s backwaters hub is one of South India’s most cinematic experiences.

Kollam (Quilon) Observe village life on punted canoe rides through networks of canals around Munroe Island (Kerala).

Goa Dolphin- and croc-spotting tours on the Mandovi River.

Andaman Islands See coral-rich Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park, and travel between ravishing islands by local ferry.

Malvan Take a trip along Maharashtra’s little-known but beautiful Karli River backwaters.

Elephanta Island Catch a different perspective on Mumbai’s iconic harbour while returning from this Unesco World Heritage Site.

Local Festivals

As well as embracing a range of countrywide festivals, South India has many vibrant locally celebrated events, from sacred temple processions to flamboyant beachside affairs.

Nehru Trophy Boat Race A lively showdown between elegant 40m-long canoes in Alleppey, Kerala.

Chennai Festival of Music & Dance For a month, Chennai fills up on Carnatic (and some non-Carnatic) music, dance and drama.

Pongal Decorated cows feast on pongal (a rice, sugar, dhal and milk concoction) in Tamil Nadu.

Goa Carnival This four-day fiesta kicks off Lent with colourful parades, concerts and plenty of merrymaking.

Ganesh Chaturthi Mumbai buzzes for the ceremonial dunking of statues of Hindu god Ganesh into the Arabian Sea.

Dussehra Mysuru Palace is spectacularly lit up at night, while the town puts on cultural events.

Month by Month

TOP EVENTS

Pongal, January

Carnival, February or March

Ganesh Chaturthi, August or September

Navratri & Dussehra, September or October

Diwali, October or November

January

The postmonsoon cool lingers, although it never gets truly cool in India’s most southerly states. Pleasant weather and several festivals make this a popular time to travel (book ahead!).

z Sankranti

Sankranti, the Hindu festival marking the sun’s passage into Capricorn and the end of the harvest, is celebrated on 14 or 15 January with mass kite-flying in Maharashtra, Telangana and Andhra Pradesh (among other states).

z Pongal

Aligned with Sankranti, Tamil Nadu’s Pongal marks the end of the harvest. Families prepare pots of pongal (rice, sugar, dhal and milk), symbolic of prosperity and abundance, then feed them to decorated cows. The controversial jallikattu (bull taming) is popular during Pongal.

z Free India

Republic Day commemorates the founding of the Republic of India on 26 January 1950.

z Vasant Panchami

On Vasant Panchami, the ‘fifth day of spring’, Hindus (especially students) dress in yellow and place books, instruments and other educational objects in front of idols of Saraswati, the goddess of learning, to receive her blessing. May fall in February.

February

The weather is comfortable in most areas, with summer heat starting to percolate. Still peak travel season.

3 SulaFest

In Maharashtra, Nashik’s biggest party is SulaFest, three wine-fuelled days at Sula Vineyards – one of India’s best boutique music festivals.

z Maha Shivaratri

Held in February or March, Shivaratri, a day of Hindu fasting, recalls the tandava (cosmic victory dance) of Lord Shiva. Temple processions are followed by the chanting of mantras and the anointing of linga (phallic images of Shiva). Upcoming dates: 21 February 2020, 11 March 2021.

z Carnival in Goa

Carnival, the four-day party kicking off Lent, is particularly big in Goa, especially in Panaji (Panjim). Sabado Gordo (Fat Saturday) starts it off with elaborate parades, and the revelry continues with street parties, concerts and merrymaking. Might also fall in March.

March

The last month of the travel high season, March is full-on hot in most of South India.

z Holi

Holi (www.holifestival.org), an ecstatic Hindu celebration at the beginning of spring (February/March), is associated with Krishna but also celebrates fertility, love, and good conquering evil. Mumbaikars and other southerners embrace this northern festival by throwing coloured water and gulal (powder) at everyone and everything. Upcoming dates: 9 March 2020, 28 March 2021.

LUNAR & ISLAMIC CALENDARS

Many festivals follow the astrological-based Indian lunar calendar or the Islamic calendar (which moves about 11 days earlier each year, and changes annually relative to the Gregorian calendar). Check online or contact local tourist offices for exact festival dates.

April

The heat has well and truly arrived in South India; with the rise in temperature come competitive travel deals and a drop in tourist traffic.

z Mahavir’s Birthday

In March or April, Mahavir Jayanti commemorates the birth of Jainism’s 24th and most important tirthankar (teacher and enlightened being). Temples are decorated, Mahavir statues given ritual baths, processions held and offerings given to the poor.

z Rama’s Birthday

During Ramanavami (one to nine days) in March or April, Hindus celebrate Rama’s birth with processions, music, fasting and feasting, enactments of the Ramayana, and ceremonial weddings of Rama and Sita idols. Upcoming dates: 2 April 2020, 21 April 2021.

z Ramadan (Ramazan)

Thirty days of dawn-to-dusk fasting mark the ninth month of the Islamic calendar. Ramadan begins around 24 April 2020 and 13 April 2021.

May

In most of the country it’s hot, which makes it high season in Ooty (Udhagamandalam), Kodaikanal (Kodai) and other southern hill stations. Festivals slow down as humidity builds.

z Thrissur Pooram

In April or May, Kerala’s biggest Hindu temple festival sees parades of caparisoned elephants through town.

z Eid al-Fitr

Muslims celebrate the end of Ramadan with three days of festivities (prayers, shopping, gift-giving). Around 24 May 2020 and 13 May 2021.

June

The monsoon begins in most areas, and where it doesn’t you’ve got premonsoon extreme heat, so June isn’t a popular travel month in South India.

July

It’s really raining almost everywhere, with many remote roads being washed out. Consider doing a rainy-season meditation or ayurveda retreat, an ancient Indian tradition.

z Naag Panchami

Naag Panchami, particularly vibrant in Pune and Kolhapur (Maharashtra) and Karnataka, is dedicated to Ananta, the serpent upon whose coils Vishnu rested between universes. Women fast at home, while serpents are venerated as totems. Upcoming dates: 25 July 2020 and 13 August 2021.

z Eid al-Adha

Muslims commemorate Ibrahim’s readiness to sacrifice his son to God by slaughtering a goat or sheep and sharing it. Around 31 July 2020 and 19 July 2021.

August

It’s still high monsoon season, with some tourist-oriented businesses closed. Some folks swear by visiting tropical areas like Kerala or Goa at this time of year for the lush, glistening jungle.

z Janmastami

Marking Krishna’s birthday, Janmastami celebrations range from fasting and puja (prayers) to drawing elaborate rangoli (rice-paste designs) outside homes. Upcoming dates: 11 August 2020 and 30 August 2021.

2 Nehru Trophy Boat Race

On the second Saturday of August, the fiercely contested Nehru Trophy Boat Race sees 40m-long snake boats go head-to-head, powered by up to 100 rowers each, on Punnamada Lake near Alappuzha (Alleppey, Kerala)

z Independence Day

This public holiday, on 15 August, marks the anniversary of India’s independence from Britain in 1947. Festivities include flag-hoisting ceremonies, parades and patriotic cultural programmes.

z Parsi New Year

Parsis celebrate Pateti, the last day of the Zoroastrian year, followed by the new year, especially in Mumbai. Houses are cleaned and decorated with flowers and rangoli, families dress up and eat special dishes, and offerings are made at the Fire Temple.

z Ganesh Chaturthi

Hindus, especially in Mumbai, celebrate the birth of the elephant-headed god (here) for up to 10 days in August or September by displaying decorative statues then parading them around before ceremonially depositing them in rivers, lakes or the sea. Ganesh Chaturthi falls around 22 August 2020 and 10 September 2021.

Revellers celebrating Ganesh Chaturthi, Mumbai | CRS PHOTO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

z Ashura

Shiite Muslims commemorate the martyrdom of Prophet Mohammed’s grandson Imam Hussain on the 10th day of the Islamic holy month of Muharram with beautiful processions, especially in Hyderabad. Around 28 August 2020 and 18 August 2021. Ashura also marks the day Noah left the ark, and the day Moses was saved from the Egyptians.

z Onam

Kerala’s biggest cultural celebration, Onam is a 10-day Hindu soirée held at the beginning of the first month of the Malayalam calendar in August or September, glorifying the golden age of mythical King Mahabali. Upcoming dates: 30 August 2020, 21 August 2021.

September

The rain begins to ease off, but, with temperatures still relatively high, the moisture-filled air can create a fatiguing steam-bath-like environment.

October

The southeast coast (and southern Kerala) can still be rainy, but this is when South India starts to get its travel mojo on.

z Gandhi Jayanti

The national holiday of Gandhi Jayanti (2 October) is a solemn celebration of Mohandas Gandhi’s birth, with prayer meetings at his cremation site in Delhi, and no alcohol on sale countrywide.

z Navratri

The Hindu ‘Festival of Nine Nights’ leading up to Dussehra celebrates the goddess Durga in all her incarnations. Festivities, in September or October, are particularly vibrant in Maharashtra. Most areas will celebrate around 17 October 2020, and 7 October 2021, but in some places, Dussehra events start well before, coinciding (confusingly!) with Navratri.

z Dussehra

Colourful Dussehra, big in Mysuru (Mysore), celebrates the triumph of good over evil. In South India, it’s centred

on Durga’s defeat of the demon Mahishasura; in the north and west, including Maharashtra, the focus is Rama’s victory over Ravana. Around 8 October 2019, 25 October 2020 and 14 October 2021.

z Diwali

In the lunar month of Kartika, Hindus celebrate five-day Diwali, with gifts, fireworks, rangoli, and burning lanterns to lead Lord Rama home from exile. In the south, it’s often associated with Krishna’s victory over Naraka. Upcoming dates: 27 October 2019, 14 November 2020, 4 November 2021.

November

The northeast monsoon is sweeping Tamil Nadu and Kerala, but the tourist season is in swing and temperatures are pleasant enough.

z Eid-Milad-un-Nabi

The Islamic festival of Eid-Milad-un-Nabi celebrates the birth of the Prophet Mohammed with prayers and processions. Around 10 November 2019, 29 October 2020, 19 October 2021.

z Guru Nanak’s Birthday

Nanak Jayanti, birthday of Guru Nanak, founder of Sikhism, is celebrated with prayer, kirtan (devotional singing) and processions for three days. Around 12 November 2019, 30 November 2020 and 19 November 2021.

3 International Film Festival of India

The International Film Festival of India (www.iffi.nic.in), the country’s biggest movie jamboree, attracts Bollywood’s finest to Panaji, Goa, for premieres, parties and screenings.

December

December is peak tourist season for a reason: the weather is lovely, the humidity lower than usual and the mood festive.

z Feast of St Francis Xavier

On 3 December, thousands of pilgrims descend on Old Goa to honour the shrivelled remains of St Francis Xavier, marking the start of a week-long festival.

z Karthikai Deepam

Celebrating Shiva’s restoration of light to the world, this 10-day festival is especially massive at Tiruvannamalai. Throngs of pilgrims arrive for the full-moon night. Upcoming dates: 10 December 2019, 29 November 2020 and 19 November 2021.

z Christmas Day

Christians celebrate the birth of Jesus Christ on 25 December. The festivities are especially big in Goa and Kerala, with music, elaborate decorations and special masses, while Mumbai’s Catholic neighbourhoods become festivals of lights.

3 Kochi–Muziris Biennale

Kicking off every other December (2020, 2022 etc), the four-month Kochi–Muziris Biennale pulls Indian and international creatives to historic Fort Cochin for a major contemporary arts celebration.

Kolam (rice-flower design) decoration on display during Pongal | IKHWAN AMEER / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Itineraries

Classic Kerala

2 WEEKS

With its coconut-palm-fringed beaches and languid backwaters, Kerala can justly claim to be India’s most laid-back state. But there’s plenty of colour and fun to spice up your tropical idyll – lively festivals and snake-boat races, Kathakali dance-dramas, charming colonial-era quarters and a famously flavoursome cuisine.

Spend a day visiting the museums and dining well in capital Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum), before making the half-hour hop southeast to beach resort Kovalam. Shift down another gear at nearby Varkala, a holy town with a dizzying clifftop guesthouse-and-restaurant enclave, where you’ll keep active with yoga, SUP or surfing. Continue north to Kollam (Quilon) and take the tourist cruise along the canals to Alappuzha (Alleppey) with an overnight stop at the Matha Amrithanandamayi Mission, the ashram of Kerala’s celebrated ‘Hugging Mother’. Reaching Alappuzha (Alleppey), you’re in backwaters central; aboard a houseboat, kayak or canoe, discover what the sublime backwaters are all about. Next, detour east into the tea-coated, very trekkable hills of Munnar. Travel back down to Kochi (Cochin) and take the ferry to the old colonial outpost of Fort Cochin, where seafood barbecues, warm homestays, arty cafes, colonial-era mansions, Kathakali shows and the intriguing Jewish quarter at Mattancherry fill a fascinating few days.

Itineraries

Goa, Caves & Cities

4 WEEKS

City lights, historic sites, beachy bliss, jungle adventure and a touch of colonial-era quaintness – this trip will give you a flavour of all that’s fantastic about the south.

Begin in cosmopolitan Mumbai, Bollywood’s beating heart and home to some of the nation’s finest spots to shop, eat and drink. Take a sunset stroll along Marine Drive, a curvaceous oceanside promenade dubbed the ‘Queen’s Necklace’ because of its sparkling night lights, finishing with bhelpuri (fried rounds of dough with rice, lentils and chutney) on Chowpatty Beach. Catch a ferry to Elephanta Island from Mumbai’s historic Gateway of India to explore its stunning rock-cut temples and the triple-faced sculpture of Lord Shiva.

Next, make your way to the dazzling vineyards of Indian wine country around Nashik, sipping award-winning creations at Grover Zampa or Sula Vineyards, an outside-the-box Indian experience. Continue northeast to explore the ancient cave art at Ajanta and Ellora, situated within 150km of each other near Aurangabad. The incredible frescoed Buddhist caves of Ajanta are clustered along a horseshoe-shaped gorge, while the rock-cut caves of Ellora – containing a mix of Hindu, Jain and Buddhist shrines – are set on a 2km escarpment. Next up: the tropical beach haven of Goa for some soul-reviving seaside therapy. Wander through lush spice plantations, visit Portuguese-era cathedrals in Old Goa, shop at Anjuna’s colourful flea market and take your pick from dozens of fabulous beach spots, before travelling east to the traveller hot spot of Hampi in neighbouring Karnataka. Ramble around Hampi’s enigmatic boulder-strewn landscape and imagine what life here was like when it was a centre of the mighty Vijayanagar empire. Make the long trip down to Mysuru (Mysore) to explore Mysuru Palace, one of India’s grandest royal buildings, learn about ashtanga yoga and shop for silk and sandalwood in its colourful markets. From Mysuru it’s an exciting bus or taxi ride across the Western Ghats into Kerala and Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary, a pristine forest and jungle reserve and one of the best places in the south to spot wild elephants. Finally, take the hair-raising road down to the coast and make your way south to Kochi, Kerala’s intriguing colonial-era city, where a blend of Portuguese, Dutch and British history combines with wonderful homestays, creative cafes and a buzzing traveller scene.

Itineraries

Cities, Hill Stations & Sanctuaries

3 WEEKS

An offbeat trip through the contrasting cities, wildlife reserves and hill stations of the Deccan and Western Ghats.

Start with Maharashtra’s little-visited but fantastic Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve, offering some of the best prospects for sighting wild tigers, before heading south to the wonderful princely capital Hyderabad with its centuries-old Islamic monuments and labyrinthine bazaars. Continue south to the culinary and shopping delights of India’s 21st-century IT capital, Bengaluru (Bangalore). On to the royal city of Mysuru. Gawp at ubergrand Mysuru Palace and try ashtanga yoga. Head south to Tamil Nadu’s Mudumalai Tiger Reserve or Kerala’s Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary, where you can spot wild elephants and take jungle safaris, then on to the cool hill town of Ooty (Udhagamandalam), one of India’s most-loved holiday retreats. Take the toy train to Mettupalayam, near Coimbatore, then cross into Kerala and the tea-covered hills of Munnar, with fine hiking and secluded mountain accommodation. Finish with trekking and more chances of a tiger or elephant sighting at Periyar Tiger Reserve.

Itineraries

Sacred Tamil Nadu

2 WEEKS

A journey through Tamil Nadu is a trip into South India’s spiritual soul.

Delve into the rich history of Chennai with a wander around the Government Museum before visiting the ancient Kapaleeshwarar and Parthasarathy temples. Travel south to beachside Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram) and its rock-cut shrines. Move inland to Tiruvannamalai, where the Arunachaleshwar Temple is one of India’s largest sacred complexes. Trade in temples for flamboyant cathedrals over a few days in the delightful old French seaside colony of Puducherry (Pondicherry) before heading back inland to the stunning Unesco World Heritage–listed medieval temples around Kumbakonam and Thanjavur (Tanjore). Continue to Trichy (Tiruchirappalli), home to the spectacular Rock Fort Temple and the Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple, probably India’s biggest temple. Then head south to Madurai and the incredible Meenakshi Amman Temple, widely reckoned the pinnacle of South Indian temple architecture. If you like, wind down at Kanyakumari, the southern tip of India, with its temple to the virgin sea goddess Kumari, or continue west into Kerala.

Plan Your Trip

Booking Trains

In India, riding the rails has a romance all of its own. The Indian rail network snakes almost all over the country, trains run almost all the time, and there are seats to suit every size of wallet. However, booking can be a hassle – particularly from outside the country.

Train Classes

Air-Conditioned 1st Class (1AC)

The most expensive class, with two- or four-berth compartments with locking doors and meals included.

Air-Conditioned 2-Tier (2AC)

Two-tier berths arranged in groups of four and two in an open-plan carriage. Bunks convert to seats by day and curtains offer some privacy.

Air-Conditioned 3-Tier (3AC)

Three-tier berths arranged in groups of six in an open-plan carriage with no curtains.

Air-Conditioned Executive Chair (ECC)

Comfortable, reclining chairs and plenty of space; usually on Shatabdi express trains.

Air-Conditioned Chair (CC)

Similar to the executive-chair carriage but with less-fancy seating.

Sleeper Class (SL)

Open-plan carriages with three-tier bunks and no air-con, but the open windows afford great views.

Unreserved/Reserved 2nd Class (II/SS or 2S)

Known as ‘general’ class; shared, padded bench seats and usually too many people to fill them, but no reservations are necessary.

Train Reservations

Travellers to India have several options when it comes to making reservations. You can book online or with an Indian travel agent from outside India iving you the re-assurance of knowing that the train you want to travel on won’t be booked out on the day you want to travel. Alternatively, you can leave booking till you arrive, and take the chance that a seat might be available.

However you book, you must make a reservation for chair-car, executive-chair-car, sleeper, 1AC, 2AC and 3AC carriages. Book well ahead for overnight journeys or travel during holidays and festivals.

Waiting until the day of travel to book is not recommended, though on short journeys, buying a general 2nd-class ticket for the next available train is a handy, cheap option, though you may have to stand.

Reserved tickets show your seat/berth and carriage number. Carriage numbers are written on the side of the train and a list of names and berths is usually posted on the side of each reserved carriage.

Booking Online

Booking online should be the easiest way to buy tickets – though it still isn’t quite as straightforward as you’d expect, and the reservation system is only open from 12.30am to 11.45pm (IST). Bookings open 120 days before departure for long-distance trains, sometimes less for short-haul trips.

The government-run Indian Railway Catering & Tourism Corp (IRCTC; www.irctc.co.in) takes bookings for regular and luxury trains. Using the site involves a frustrating, complex registration process, and many travellers have reported problems using international cards (though this may change). An IRCTC number may be needed for other booking sites.

An Indian mobile SIM will make life less frustrating when booking online; however, foreigners can verify their IRCTC account from abroad by entering a foreign mobile number, which will trigger an email from IRCTC allowing you to enter a verification code for your mobile (for which there’s a small fee) after submitting a registration form. Enquiries should be directed to care@irctc.co.in.

The following are useful for online international bookings, all with user-friendly booking apps.

12Go (www.12go.asia) Handy ticketing agency, though only for India’s 1000 most popular routes; accepts international cards.

Cleartrip (www.cleartrip.com) A reliable private agency; accepts international cards but requires an IRCTC registration, linked to your Cleartrip account.

Make My Trip (www.makemytrip.com) Reputable private agency; accepts international credit cards.

RAILWAY RAZZLE DAZZLE

You can live like a maharaja on one of India’s luxury train tours, with accommodation on board, tours and meals included in the ticket price. As well as the following, consider the Golden Chariot (www.goldenchariottrain.com), a luxurious round-trip journey from Bengaluru (Bangalore); the train was under renovation at time of writing but is due to resume service in 2019.

Palace on Wheels (www.palaceonwheels.net) Eight- to 10-day tours of Rajasthan, departing from Delhi. Trains run on fixed dates from September to April; the fare per person for seven nights in a single/double cabin starts at US$4550/3500. Try to book 10 months in advance.

Royal Rajasthan on Wheels (www.royal-rajasthan-on-wheels.com) Another epic luxury ride from Delhi through Rajasthan. Lavish one-week trips take place from September to April. The fare per single/double cabin for seven nights starts at US$6055/9100, plus taxes.

Deccan Odyssey (www.deccan-odyssey-india.com) Seven-night whirls around Maharashtra, Goa and beyond cost from US$6100/8750 per single/double.

Mahaparinirvan Express (aka Buddhist Circuit Special; www.irctcbuddhisttrain.com) An eight-day trip from Delhi running from September to March and visiting India’s key Buddhist sites, plus the Taj Mahal, and Lumbini in Nepal. Rates begin at US$945 per person. Note: you’ll need a Nepali visa and a double/multiple-entry Indian visa (not included in the price).

Booking on Arrival

If you plan to leave booking trains until you arrive in India, it pays to familiarise yourself with the routes you might travel before you get to the country. Booking in person at train stations is much easier if you have a train number and know the correct station names to list on the reservation form.

On arrival, pick up a copy of Trains at a Glance, a booklet sold at station news stands listing most of India’s train routes, or check routes on the Indian Railways website (www.indianrailways.gov.in). See (here) for more ticket-booking information.

Plan Your Trip

Yoga, Spas & Spiritual Pursuits

Birthplace of at least three religions, India offers a profound spiritual journey for those so inclined. Even sceptical travellers can enjoy spas, ayurvedic centres and yoga schools.

An Introduction

Ashrams

India has hundreds of ashrams – places of communal living established around the philosophies of a guru (spiritual guide or teacher).

Ayurveda

Ayurveda is the ancient science of Indian herbal medicine and holistic healing, based on natural plant extracts, massage and therapies for body and mind.

Meditation

Many centres in Buddhist areas offer training in vipassana (mindfulness meditation) and Buddhist philosophy; many require vows of silence and abstinence from tobacco, alcohol and sex.

Spa Treatments

South India’s spas offer an enticing mix of international therapies and local ayurveda-based techniques.

Yoga

Yoga’s roots lie firmly in India; you’ll find hundreds of schools to suit all levels.

Ayurveda

Ayurveda – ancient Indian herbal medicine – aims to restore balance in the body.

Goa

Shanti Ayurvedic Massage Centre, Mandrem

Palm Trees Ayurvedic Heritage, Patnem

Karnataka

SwaSwara, Gokarna Therapies and artistic pursuits.

Arya Ayurvedic Panchakarma Centre, Gokarna Beachside ayurveda.

Ayurvedagram, Bengaluru (Bangalore) In a fine garden setting.

Indus Valley Ayurvedic Centre, Mysuru (Mysore) Therapies from ancient scriptures.

Swaasthya Ayurveda Retreat Village, Kodagu (Coorg) Retreats and therapies.

Kerala

Ayurdara, Kochi (Cochin) Waterside treatments of one to three weeks.

Neeleshwar Hermitage, Bekal Five-star ayurvedic beachfront hideaway.

Dr Franklin’s Panchakarma Institute, Chowara South of Kovalam.

Harivihar, Kozhikode (Calicut) At a 19th-century royal residence.

AyurSoul, Varkala Treatments, packages and accommodation.

Mumbai

Yogacara Ayurveda and massage.

Tamil Nadu

Sita, Puducherry (Pondicherry) Ayurveda and yoga.

Yoga

You can practise yoga everywhere, from beach resorts and mountain retreats to serious-study schools.

Andaman Islands

Jalakara, Havelock Island (Swaraj Dweep; Poolside yoga and massage at an exclusive boutique hotel.

Goa

Bamboo Yoga Retreat, Patnem Beachside yoga.

Himalaya Yoga Valley, Mandrem Popular teacher training.

Himalayan Iyengar Yoga Centre, Arambol (Harmal) Reputable courses.

Swan Yoga Retreat, Assagao Retreat in a soothing jungle location.

Anand Yoga Village, Palolem Drop-in classes plus teacher training.

Karnataka

Mysuru is the birthplace of ashtanga yoga; there are centres across Karnataka.

IndeaYoga, Mysuru Hatha and ashtanga.

Namaste Yoga Farm, Gokarna Yoga in a leafy setting.

Yoga Bharata, Mysuru Ashtanga and hatha.