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Fodor's Essential Iceland
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FULLY REDESIGNED!
• New front cover has eye-catching full-bleed images with key selling points on the front
• New back cover is fully-redesigned
• Visually focused with more color and images – Better use of full and half-page images throughout with color-coded category icons
• Other useful features include Great Itineraries, Best Tour Companies, and a Calendar of Events
• “Travel Smart” (logistical planning tips section) has been moved to the front of the book and redesigned to be more infographic in feel
• Stronger Voice and Opinions give all Fodor's guides more personality. Books are more friendly and conversational in tone, going beyond informational to being inspirational
TOURISM TRENDS:
● Record 2.3 Million foreign visitors in 2018● Americans are the top tourists to Iceland
● 700k Americans visited in 2018, over 100k more than in 2017
● With increasingly affordable flights, brand-new accommodations in the country’s more remote areas, and tour outfitters that allow visitors unprecedented access, Iceland tourism is consistently on the rise
CURATED AND RELEVANT: • Focused coverage on only the best places so travelers can make the most out of their limited time.• Carefully vetted recommendations for all types of establishments and price points.
CONCISE: • Shortened reviews presented with brevity and focus.Please see additional key selling points in the book main description.
Tindakan Buku
Mulai MembacaInformasi Buku
Fodor's Essential Iceland
Deskripsi
FULLY REDESIGNED!
• New front cover has eye-catching full-bleed images with key selling points on the front
• New back cover is fully-redesigned
• Visually focused with more color and images – Better use of full and half-page images throughout with color-coded category icons
• Other useful features include Great Itineraries, Best Tour Companies, and a Calendar of Events
• “Travel Smart” (logistical planning tips section) has been moved to the front of the book and redesigned to be more infographic in feel
• Stronger Voice and Opinions give all Fodor's guides more personality. Books are more friendly and conversational in tone, going beyond informational to being inspirational
TOURISM TRENDS:
● Record 2.3 Million foreign visitors in 2018● Americans are the top tourists to Iceland
● 700k Americans visited in 2018, over 100k more than in 2017
● With increasingly affordable flights, brand-new accommodations in the country’s more remote areas, and tour outfitters that allow visitors unprecedented access, Iceland tourism is consistently on the rise
CURATED AND RELEVANT: • Focused coverage on only the best places so travelers can make the most out of their limited time.• Carefully vetted recommendations for all types of establishments and price points.
CONCISE: • Shortened reviews presented with brevity and focus.Please see additional key selling points in the book main description.
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Fodor's Essential Iceland - Fodor's Travel Guides
14 ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES
Essential Iceland offers terrific experiences that should be on every traveler’s list. Here are Fodor’s top picks for a memorable trip.
1 Northern Lights
The best opportunity to view the finicky aurora is between September and March, as they require a dark sky to be seen. This also means escaping sources of light pollution, which can similarly drown out the aurora’s particles.
2 The Golden Circle
This loop of essential Iceland sites includes Gullfoss waterfall, the Geysir hot spring area, and Þingvellir National Park. (Ch.6)
3 Silfra
Snorkeling in the crystal-clear waters of Silfra, a fissure between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates, is an incredible experience. (Ch. 6)
4 The Snæfellsnes Peninsula
This stunning peninsula is sprinkled with waterfalls, golden- and pink-sand beaches, and lava fields, as well as the ice-capped volcano from Journey to the Center of the Earth. (Ch. 5)
5 Waterfalls
Gullfoss draws the most visitors; Skógafoss is close to the Ring Road; and you can walk behind Seljalandsfoss. (Ch. 6)
6 Vatnajökull Glacier
Europe’s largest glacier (after the Severny Island ice cap) isn’t on the mainland but in Iceland. Hike or go dog sledding. (Ch. 10)
7 The Blue Lagoon
No Iceland attraction is more iconic than the dazzling Blue Lagoon, a naturally heated seawater pool and spa between Rekyjavík and Iceland’s international airport at Keflavík. (Ch. 6)
8 Horseback Riding on a Beach
Two of the country’s most famous features, its horses and its volcanic beaches, can be combined into one unforgettable experience in Iceland. (Ch. 6)
9 Downtown Reykjavík
Home to nearly half of Iceland’s population, Reykjavík is the political, cultural, and culinary hub of the country, with events that will delight every kind of visitor. (Ch. 3)
10 Observe the Wildlife
Atlantic puffins can be seen in the spring and summer. The Látrabjarg Cliffs in the Westfjords is the best place to spy the arctic fox and the white-tailed eagle. Whale-watching tours are plentiful. (Ch. 4)
11 Askja Caldera
On a Superjeep tour to this striking lake, explore the moonscape
where NASA astronauts trained for the Apollo 11 expedition, as well as exploded calderas and glacial rivers. (Ch. 9)
12 Music Festivals
Iceland’s rich musical heritage is celebrated with frequent festivals, the most popular of which are Iceland Airwaves in November and Secret Solstice in June. (Ch. 3)
13 National Parks
Iceland is home to three national parks: Þingvellir, Vatnajökull, and Snæfellsjökull, each as spectacular as the next. (Ch. 5, 6, 10)
14 The Ring Road
The Ring Road (also known as Route 1) encircles Iceland, which allows its travelers to witness all of Iceland’s greatest sights.
WHAT’S WHERE
Reykjavík. Reykjavík is a harbor city and also the warmest part of the country. The main streets of Skólavörðustígur and Laugavegur have become tourist-centric shopping strips. The 101 City Center is quaint with colorful houses.
Westfjords. The Westfjords are one of the most remote regions you can explore while visiting Iceland. Geologically this area is the oldest part of Iceland (16 million years old). Filled with dramatic sights like Dynjandi, this area is mainly accessible in summer.
West Iceland and the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. Not too distant from Reykjavík, West Iceland encapsulates Borgarnes, Stykkishólmur, Húsafell, Akranes, and Snæfellsnes, and is home to Snæfellsjökull National Park, which houses the beloved glacier-topped volcano, Snæfellsnesjökull.
Reykjanes Peninsula and the South Coast. Reykjanes is what you would imagine the surface of the moon to look like. It is the first thing most visitors in Iceland experience once they leave the airport. In this region you’ll find major attractions like the Golden Circle, the Blue Lagoon, and sights along the scenic South Coast.
Akureyri. Akureyri is Iceland’s second-largest city and the capital of the north. There is even a slightly different dialect here.
North Iceland. North Iceland, which includes the Vatnsnes Peninsula, Blönduós, Tröllaskagi, Mývatn Region, and Þórshöfn (to name a few major areas), is a calm region, with snow arriving as early as September.
The Highlands. The interior Highlands with their stunning natural wonders can be explored via four different routes, with Kjölur and Sprengisandur being the most popular in summer. Þórsmörk and Landmannalaugar are the most magical camping sites in the country.
East Iceland and the Southeast. The landscape of Southeast Iceland is dominated by Vatnajökull in Skaftafell National Park. The remote Eastfjords provide respite from tourists, and are known for the artistic town of Seyðisfjörður among many other small towns and municipalities.
Iceland Today
As a small island nation with a seemingly disproportionate amount of newspapers and the OECD’s highest consumption of online news, there’s a whole lot to talk about in Iceland. Here are the major topics on everyone’s lips at the coffee shops and swimming pools.
ICELAND IN POP CULTURE
If you watched the HBO hit miniseries Chernobyl, then you’ve heard the work of Icelandic composer Hildur Guðnadóttir, who won an Emmy for her eerie score made from sounds she recorded at a Lithuanian nuclear power plant.
Another big name in the local art scene, Ragnar Kjartansson, put Iceland in the international spotlight. His 2012 installation The Visitors
was recently named the best art of the 21st century
by The Guardian. His nine-channel video art piece was heralded as an intimate and immersive experience, featuring song lyrics written by his ex-wife, artist Ásdís Sif Gunnarsdóttir, and singing by other well-known Icelandic artists, including members of Sígur Rós. Make sure to check out one of Iceland‘s small, unpretentious galleries on your visit—you might just meet the next rising star.
A LITTLE TURBULENCE
The biggest headline grabber of 2019 has been the sudden bankruptcy of WOW Air, Iceland’s low-cost carrier with the eye-catching magenta planes and retro uniforms. WOW abruptly ceased operations in March 2019, following several months of hushed yet optimistic investor negotiations. Besides grounding all flights on both sides of the Atlantic, stranding thousands of passengers, it sparked one of Iceland’s largest mass layoffs ever, with over 1,000 people out of work overnight.
Founded in 2011, the budget airline made plenty of headlines over the years with its record-breaking expansion that helped fuel Iceland’s tourism boom and—at least among the tabloids—the personal life of former CEO Skúli Mogensen. But wait, there’s more! the final chapter of the WOW saga has yet to be written: American businesswoman Michele Ballarin has plans to revive the airline, with U.S. to Iceland flights from Washington, D.C. Will you fly to Iceland on WOW 2.0? Only time will tell.
OF CRANES AND PUFFINS
If you ask an Icelander if the WOW meltdown came as a shock, you’d get mixed responses. Word started to spread in 2018 that tourism, and the economy as a whole in Iceland, would start slowing down and possibly lead to the first major recession since Kreppan, the infamous 2008 financial collapse. Although there has been some decline in employment levels, consumer spending, and overall tourist numbers in 2019, the slowdown thus far has been mild, and the Icelandic government is optimistic that the pace will pick up in 2020.
Visitors to Reykjavík are unlikely to notice any setbacks, at least in terms of services and accommodations. Construction cranes tower over the puffin-hawking souvenir shops in the city center, with several new mixed-use apartment blocks and hotels joining the mix of old-fashioned, colorful corrugated steel houses. You’re also unlikely to see any drop in the number of revelers out in downtown Reykjavík bars and clubs on weekends, as Icelanders are famously resilient.
EUROVISION CONTROVERSY
If there’s one thing Iceland knows how to do, it’s steal the show. When it’s not disrupting European air traffic with tongue-twisting volcanoes, it’s disrupting European airwaves with very unique musicians. The Eurovision music competition was a welcome distraction from economic news as an unlikely choice—the industrial-cybergoth-techno band Hatari was sent to represent Iceland at the finals in Tel Aviv, Israel, in May 2019.
The lyrics to their song Hate Will Prevail
and their BDSM outfits weren’t the most shocking element of their performance. In fact, entire families in Iceland dressed up in goth leather and latex costumes for Eurovision viewing parties. It was the band’s controversial waving of a Palestine flag during a camera break that landed them in hot water and resulted in a fine for Iceland’s national broadcast service. The band ended up finishing 10th in the competition, yet again dashing Icelanders’ hopes of winning and hosting Eurovision in Reykjavík.
Essential Icelandic Food and Drink
SOUP IN A BREAD BOWL
The sole menu item at a little upstairs café called Svarta Kaffið in Reykjavík, two soups are cooked up daily—one with meat, one without. Order a beer and watch the crowds along Laugavegur.
PYLSUR (HOT DOGS)
Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur in Reykjavík is known to have the best hot dogs in town.
Condiments include onions (both raw and fried), ketchup, and sweet brown mustard. The Icelandic way
to eat them is ein með öllu (with everything).
SKYR
Ever since the first explorers arrived in Iceland 1,000 years ago, skyr has been a staple of the local diet. It’s often served with bilberries or lingonberries mixed in.
SANDWICHES
At Reykjavík’s Hlöllabátar in Ingólfur Square, subs come in many varieties and are typically heated and slathered with kokteilsósa (cocktail sauce).
AKUREYRINGUR
Akureyri has its own unusual culinary combination: the Akureyringur, a hamburger with french fries cooked into it.
BELGIAN WAFFLES
In the tiny town of Þingeyri there is a cozy coffeehouse called Simbahöllin. Belgian waffles served with rhubarb jam and cream is their specialty.
LOBSTER
In Iceland it is technically called a langoustine, but it’s very similar in appearance and flavor to its southerly cousin. There is an annual lobster festival in Höfn.
HARÐFISKUR
For most of Iceland’s 1,000 years, the fishing industry almost single-handedly supported the country’s economy. Harðfiskur is a dried variation of cod (sometimes other fish) that has sustained the Icelandic diet for centuries. These fish can be spotted air-drying all over the country.
SVIÐ
Boiled sheep’s head is one of the few weird
foods that Icelanders actually eat and enjoy regularly (unlike puffin, whale, and fermented shark). Like other traditional Icelandic dishes, it’s most commonly available during the midwinter festival of Þorrablót, but you can find it year-round at Fljótt og Gott (Fast and Good), the cafeteria at the BSÍ Bus Terminal in Reykjavík.
ICE CREAM
Icelandic ice cream is super creamy and very rich. Ísbúð Vesturbæjar in Reykjavík always has a line outside, regardless of the weather, though pretty much every gas station and casual eatery sells it as well.
GULL
This easy-drinking lager is Iceland’s most prominent macrobrew. With mild flavors of grain and fruit, Gull has been around since beer prohibition was lifted in 1989.
OPAL AND TÓPAS
As spirits go, nothing is more Icelandic than Opal and Tópas, licorice schnapps that exist as both candy and liqueur.
BRENNIVÍN
Iceland’s signature beverage, Brennivín is a clear schnapps flavored with caraway. It is most commonly consumed during the midwinter feast of Þorrablót alongside hákarl (fermented shark).
ORKA
This popular, locally made energy drink comes in a distinct blue bottle.
Best Icelandic Craft Beers
THE LADY BREWERY, REYKJAVÍK
Icelandic culture values gender equality to an admirable degree, consistently earning the top spot in the World Economic Forum’s Global Gender Gap Index, which means their gender gap is the smallest in the world. This distinction recently extended to the world of craft brewing with the opening of the Lady Brewery, Iceland’s first female-owned and -operated craft brewery. Owners Ragnheiður Raxel
Axel and Þórey Björk Halldórsdóttir combined their backgrounds in the food industry and design to make beers like the First Lady in hopes of bridging the industry’s gender gap: 30% of beer drinkers are women, yet only 3% of breweries are owned by women. Their suds can be found throughout craft bars in Reykjavík, including Hlemmur Square, Skúli, and Óx.
BRYGGJAN BRUGGHÚS, REYKJAVÍK HARBOR
The first microbrewery to open following the end of prohibition in 1989 was Bryggjan Brewery, located near the old harbor in Reykjavík. They brew a wide range of craft beers—over 60 options, including IPAs, Belgian dubbels, and various seasonal offerings. Visitors to their on-site brewpub can explore Bryggan’s options over a hearty meal of lobster or burgers; there are even a few options for vegan diners. Beer lovers will enjoy the tour and tasting (ISK 3,490)—all they ask that you bring is good humor.
RVK BREWING CO., REYKJAVÍK
One of the newest craft breweries to hit the Reykjavík scene is RVK Brewing Co., located just off Laugavegur, the city’s main shopping street. In addition to the brewery, RVK has a cozy taproom where you can sample any of their 10 beers—whether a Japanese rice lager or an imperial stout, among other creative options. For ISK 3,500 each, up to 20 guests can book a brewery tour that includes a flight of six beers—a must-do for lovers of craft beer. Closed Monday, they keep irregular hours the rest of the week for walk-in visitors.
STEÐJI, BORGARFJÖRÐUR
Near Reykjavík in the town of Borgarfjörður, the craft brewery Steðji has earned a reputation for using unique flavors and ingredients like algae and chocolate. Started in 2012, this family-owned and -operated brewery kicked off their business with a German-style lager and the Icelandic Northern Lights beer, a medium-dark lager and their best seller. It’s worth noting that one of their beers, Hvalur 2, uses a highly controversial ingredient: whale testicles. What makes it even more questionable is that it’s smoked using sheep droppings. Adventurous beer drinkers will definitely want to check out what Steðji is brewing.
DOKKAN BRUGGHÚS, ÍSAFJÖRÐUR, WESTFJORDS
The only brewery in the Westfjords resides in the region’s largest village, Ísafjörður (population 2,500). Dokkan Brugghús came onto the scene in the summer of 2018 as the only brewery within a 400 km radius. Types of brews range from refreshing to fruity to Chrismas-y. Their offerings can be found at Husið, one of two bars in Ísafjörður, and at select locations in Reykjavík. Brewery tours and tastings are available if coordinated in advance.
SEGULL 67, SIGLUFJÖRÐUR
Along the sea in Siglufjörður is Segull 67, a family-owned craft brewery housed in an old fish factory. The beers, which include pale lagers, porters, and IPAs, among others, often show up in a seasonal variation. Call ahead to book a tour and experience an essential and historic part of North Iceland.
EINSTÖK, AKUREYRI
Perhaps internationally the best-known of Iceland’s craft beers is Einstök, an Akureyri-based brewery bearing a Viking logo. Exporting to 22 countries worldwide, the brewery capitalizes on the abundant glacial waters naturally filtered through the local lava rocks to produce a selection of seven beers. Their summer brews tap into Iceland’s natural environment, like the Arctic Berry ale, which is flavored with handpicked bilberries, or the Scottish ale, with its smoked Icelandic barley. Perhaps one of the best aspects of Einstök beer is that it’s relatively easy to find in the U.S., so you don’t have to worry about stocking up before you leave.
GÆÐINGUR BRUGGHÚS, SKAGAFJÖRÐUR, NORTH ICELAND
It’s said that the best Icelandic horses come from North Iceland, which is echoed in the name of this brewery: Gæðingur translates to a great horse,
and each of the eight Skagafjörður brews features rider
in its name and has a horse on its label. They brew 10 unique beers—some canned, some bottled, and some strictly seasonal. If North Iceland isn’t on your itinerary, some of Gæðingur beers can be found in bottles or on tap at Microbar in Reykjavík.
THE BROTHERS BREWERY, WESTMAN ISLANDS
The remotest brewery in Iceland can be found on Vestmannaeyjar (the Westman Islands). Traveling either by boat or by ferry, visitors can explore this unique brewery and sample award-winning beers like Togarinn, an imperial stout considered 2016’s beer of the year in Iceland. They can brew up to 30 different flavors, but usually fewer than 10 are available at any given time—their IPAs are particularly popular. Tours and tastings are available, but guests can also simply slake their thirst at the on-site bar while snacking on free popcorn. The Westman Islands don’t get nearly as many visitors as other parts of the country, making the experience all the more special for those who choose to make the journey for this beer.
ÖLVISHOLT BRUGGHÚS, SELFOSS, SOUTH ICELAND
This brewery near Selfoss was started by two neighbors who came together over a shared love of beer. It’s one of Iceland’s older microbreweries, relatively speaking, but their start in 2007 may have begun the trend of high-quality craft brewing in the country. Their first beer, Skjalfti, was a California common lager that almost everyone will love, and today they regularly brew six standard beers, as well as nine seasonal offerings. Find these beers throughout South Iceland, including Reykjavík, and even in markets in the U.S. and Sweden.
ÖLVERK BRUGGHÚS, HVERAGERÐI
Ölverk is Europe’s first geothermally brewed beer, which makes sense given all the geothermal activity in the Hveragerði area. Their bottle selection features bourbon-aged ales, Belgian IPAs, lambics, stouts, and so much more. As one of the most popular beer brands in Iceland, it’s not too hard to find the classics throughout the country, but many people prefer to visit the brewery itself because of their magnificent pizza. Whether beer or pizza, Ölverk takes craftsmanship very seriously. Educational brewery tours are available but require a minimum of 10 visitors. Don’t forget to grab some pizza before you go.
Iceland’s Best Musicians, Past and Present
BJÖRK
Arguably the most famous musician to come out of Iceland, Björk is weird in the most wonderful of ways. Her performances border on theater, and her music will haunt you for days. Born in Reykjavík, Björk has been creating music since age 11. She was the founding member of alt-rock band Sugarcubes before taking off on her own solo projects in 1993. Since then, she’s released nine albums, the most notable being Post (1995), Homogenic (1997), and most recently, Utopia (2017).
SIGUR RÓS
Since 1994, Sigur Rós has been filling ears with their avant-rock sounds—music that immediately transports you to a calmer place. They use special instruments like a bowed guitar to produce some of the more otherworldly elements of their music. The bands consists of Jón Jónsi
Birgisson (vocals and guitar), Orri Páll Dýrason (drums), and Georg Holm (bass). The group has released six albums since 2012, the most popular being their sophomore LP Ágætis Byrjun. If you’re listening to Sigur Rós and not watching their music videos, you’re missing out on a big part of the intrigue. The group is known for creating painstakingly detailed videos with beautiful plots. And don’t sleep on the solo work of this band’s frontman, Jónsi. His falsetto sets an ethereal tone that’s much more pop-inspired than the songs of the full group.
EMILÍANA TORRINI
Chances are you’ve already heard one of Emilíana Torrini’s songs, even if you’ve never consciously sought one out. The Icelandic singer-songwriter is the voice behind Gollum’s Song,
which was featured in—you guessed it—The Lord of the Rings (specifically, The Two Towers), and in 2009 she had another hit with Jungle Drum.
Her songwriting goes beyond her own albums. Torrini helped write Kylie Minogue’s Slow
and Someday
off of Body Language. She’s an especially fun musician to keep tabs on, given her raw and genuine sharing of what it’s like to create music. Her most recent album, The Colorist & Emilíana Torrini (2016), is a collaboration with the Colorist Orchestra, a group who reinvent work from well-known musicians around the world using their own musical sensibility.
OF MONSTERS AND MEN
Formed in 2010, this five-person group—Ragnar Raggi
Þórhallsson on vocals, Brynjar Leifsson on guitar, Arnar Rósenkranz Hilmarsson on drums, and Kristján Páll Kristjánsson on bass—has found international acclaim for their catchy folk music. The band is actively touring around the world, and it’s not hard to catch them in major cities around the United States.
VLADIMIR ASHKENAZY
Though Russian by birth, Vladimir Ashkenazy has held Icelandic citizenship since 1972 and is today an important figure in the Harpa Concert Hall community. The Grammy-winning pianist and conductor has performed works by Mozart, Beethoven, Chopin, and Rachmaninoff, among other masters. He got his start in the world of classical music after performing in the 1955 Chopin Piano Competition in Warsaw. His most recent recording is Ashkenazy: 50 Years on Decca, a celebration of his longtime partnership with the London record label.
AUÐUR
You would never guess that Auður, born Auðunn Lúthersson, actually got his start in hardcore and noise-rock bands. It took only one James Blake show—at the 2013 Sonár festival in Iceland—to turn his love to electronic music. In 2016, the singer won the Newcomer of the Year title at the Icelandic Music Awards, and in February 2017 he shared his first album, Alone. Through songs (and videos) like I’d Love,
you can really appreciate this musician’s take on R&B.
SÓLEY
Sóley’s lyrics are powerful, her instrumentals are delicate, and her voice is ethereal. Born Sóley Stefánsdóttir, this musician and composer is a graduate of the Icelandic Art Academy in Piano Arts, skills that are front and center in most of her songs. Her compositions are introspective, incorporating her own fears, thoughts, and hopes. In fact, Sóley’s album Endless Summer was inspired by a note the musician wrote to herself after waking up in the middle of the night: Write about hope and spring.
GUSGUS
For more than 20 years, GusGus has comprised a rotating cast of band members performing electronic music that’s now been heard around the world. Originally, the group’s intent was to form a film and music collective; the latter won out as a priority, but not before the founding members produced a short film. In 1997, GusGus released their second album, Polydistortion, which helped them achieve recognition outside of Iceland. The fun thing about GusGus is that they incorporate all forms and styles of electronic music—trap, techno, trance—giving it their own spin.
ÁRSTÍÐIR
Six months after forming Árstíðir, the band members found themselves at the top of the Icelandic music charts. This was 2008, right after the stock market crashed—meaning the band saw unlikely success in bleak times. Árstíðir made history as the first Icelandic music group to win the Eiserner Eversteiner European Folk Music Award, but it was their spontaneous performance in a German train station while on tour in 2013 that gave them their viral moment. Aside from having some serious talent, they are also super creative. To create their third album, Hvel, the band utilized Kickstarter—offering incentives like lava ash from the Eyjafjallajökull eruption—and the campaign was a raging success.
SÓLSTAFIR
When you think of music in Iceland, you probably think of metal. Enter Sólstafir, a band with roots in Viking and black metal. Originally founded with three members—Aðalbjörn Tryggvason on guitar and vocals, Halldór Einarsson on bass, and Guðmundur Óli Pálmason on drums—Sólstafir is now a quartet, with Svavar Austmann and Sæþór Maríus Sæþórsson joining on bass and guitar, respectively, and Einarsson leaving in the late 1990s. It was with this group that the band released their first two hits, Fjara
and Ótta,
from the Köld album. Later on, Pálmason left the group to be replaced by Hallgrímur Jón Hallgrímsson. Sólstafir’s most recent album, Berdreyminn, was released in 2017.
Iceland’s Best Waterfalls
HRAUNFOSSAR
Hraunfossar is a series of falls splayed out over a lava field spanning nearly 3,000 feet. The color of the water is stunning and changes daily: At times it’s crystal-clear or turquoise, at other times a creamy white.
SVARTIFOSS
Svartifoss in Skaftafell National Park is flanked by tall columns of basalt rock. Don’t step into the basin below the falls; the riverbed is full of sharp rocks, a hidden danger amid otherwise ethereal surroundings. A marked trail leads from the park up to the falls.
SKÓGAFOSS
This waterfall can be found on the drive between Reykjavík and Vík, just past Seljalandsfoss. Skógafoss (named for the Skógá River that feeds it) is visible from the main road, and there’s a hostel and a restaurant within walking distance.
SELJALANDSFOSS
If you have only a few days (or even hours) in Reykjavík and want to get out into the wilderness, consider visiting Seljalandsfoss. Fed by a river that starts in the Eyjafjallajökull volcano, it’s the first major waterfall you’ll hit on the route to Vík, less than two hours from the capital by car. The charm of Seljalandsfoss is that you can walk behind the falls, but be extremely careful: The rocks and mud are quite slippery at all times of the year. And make sure to bring a waterproof layer if you plan on walking behind the waterfall. There’s no doubt at all that you will emerge much wetter than expected.
GULLFOSS
You’ll encounter the largest crowds at Gullfoss, but the views are worth it. This panoramic waterfall is located on the Golden Circle route in Þingvellir National Park, less than two hours from Reykjavík by car. Gullfoss means Golden Falls
and drops a total of 105 feet in two different sections. The nearby Gullfoss Café is the perfect spot to grab a cup of coffee after you’ve been awed (and potentially soaked) by the waterfall’s display of might.
ÖXARÁRFOSS
Unlike many of Iceland’s waterfalls, Öxarárfoss is completely hidden from the road, despite being located practically on top of it. The 44-foot cascade may be tiny, but its surroundings will steal your heart. Just a 40-minute drive from Reykjavík, there’s a small parking lot on the side of Route 36 and a set of stairs that leads down into the canyon. There, you’ll find yourself between the two tectonic plates that make Þingvellir National Park so special. Legend has it that, on New Year’s Eve, this waterfall would run red with either wine or blood—revealing whether your year ahead would be full of prosperity or impending war. Some locals still celebrate the holiday with a toast near the falls.
DETTIFOSS
The most powerful waterfall in all of Europe can be found at the end of a gravel road in North Iceland. Dettifoss pushes 110,000 gallons of water to the ground every second.
GLYMUR
Set aside an entire afternoon for a visit to this waterfall, since it’s a 3½-hour round-trip hike to see the actual falls. Follow the yellow cairns to get to the falls, as there are other trails shooting off away from the waterfall path.
HRAFNABJARGAFOSS
At the northernmost point of Vatnajökull National Park is Hrafnabjargafoss, formed by one of the longest rivers in Iceland. It’s accessible only in the summer, given its location off a gravel road in the Central Highlands; make sure you have a vehicle with 4-wheel drive.
GOÐAFOSS
The Waterfall of the Gods
has an interesting history: After the priest Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði decided that Iceland should convert to Christianity, he traveled to this waterfall to throw his idols of the Old Gods into the water.
Unmissable Icelandic Museums
PERLAN, REYKJAVÍK
This glass-domed museum is hard to miss. It includes a real ice cave that stretches more than 100 meters, as well as Áróra, the world’s first 8K resolution planetarium show to focus on the northern lights.
THE LAVA CENTRE, HVOLSVÖLLUR
Another of Iceland’s most immersive museums takes visitors inside of the country’s famous volcanoes at the Lava Centre. Strategic red lighting immediately creates the illusion of being surrounded by hot magma, while exhibits showcase the powerful systems in place to track earthquakes, lava flow, and all the other geologic activity.
THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ICELAND, REYKJAVÍK
This museum presents the evolution of Iceland over the past 1,000 years—from the original ship that brought settlers here to the airport that Icelanders use today for travel abroad.
SKÓGAR MUSEUM, SKÓGAR
Skógar presents the architectural and technological history of the country, from turf houses to modern transportation. There’s also a folk museum on-site dedicated to the collection and preservation of more than 15,000 individual items reflective of Iceland’s cultural heritage.
THE ICELANDIC SEA MONSTER MUSEUM, BÍLDUDALUR
Located in Bíldudalur, a coastal village in the Westfjords, this highly interactive museum takes visitors through the stories, sightings, and various monsters from Iceland’s nautical lore.
THE VIKING SAGA MUSEUM, REYKJAVÍK
Iceland’s history was recorded since the first settlers arrived to find a barren land of ice and fire. With lifelike animatronics, the Viking Saga Museum takes visitors through 17 stories from different eras that have helped shape it into the country we know and love today.
THE GHOST CENTRE, STOKKSEYRI
Although it’s open only during the summer, this museum is a must-see for visitors who want to experience Icelandic ghost stories and mythologies, which are pervasive in this country. Visitors walk through a ghost maze while listening to the tales on headsets in a number of languages.
THE MUSEUM OF ICELANDIC WITCHCRAFT AND SORCERY, HÓLMAVÍK
The town’s main attraction, this museum takes visitors back to a time when witches were still deeply feared, detailing the kinds of spells and staves these (typically male) witches would use.
Icelandic Wildlife
SEALS
Several species of seal spend time in Iceland, but only grey seals and harbor seals call the country home year-round. The most reliable place to look for them is the Vatnsnes Peninsula in northwest Iceland, which includes the Icelandic Seal Centre in the town of Hvammstangi.
POLAR BEAR
Iceland’s subarctic latitude makes it seem like the perfect home for polar bears, but the island is typically devoid of these giant carnivores. Occasionally, though, polar bears will hitch a ride on an iceberg floating over from Greenland, but they are quickly removed from the country (lethally and otherwise). To see a polar bear in-person, head to Museum Hvoll in the village of Dalvík in North Iceland; their natural history collection includes a taxidermy polar bear.
WHALES
Iceland faces a lot of controversy for continuing its practice of commercial whaling, and one way to combat the industry is to invest in the opposing industry of whale-watching. This shows the Icelandic government that there is more money to be made in keeping whales alive than putting them on menus. Many whale, dolphin, and porpoise species call Iceland’s rich waters home—in fact, Iceland is considered the whale-watching capital of Europe—and a multitude of whale-watching tours embark from the larger coastal towns. April through October is the best time to go, but tours are offered year-round.
MINK
Originally brought from Norway to Iceland in 1931, mink began populating the wild after escaping the cages that were supposed to hold them until they were harvested for fur. With plentiful prey and an utter lack of predators, the North American mink has thrived in Iceland since their introduction. Unfortunately, their presence has negatively affected native wildlife, as it happens when foreign species are left to run amok in a new environment. Mink are semiaquatic creatures and can be found near seashores, river banks, and other concentrations of fresh water.
REINDEER
Another introduced mammal, reindeer made their way to Iceland from Norway back in the 18th century. These gentle invaders have done less ecological damage than their mink friends, largely remaining isolated in Iceland’s Eastern region. In summer, herds can be seen gathering around mount Snæfell, in Vesturöræfi, and Brúaröræfi, or even as far south as the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon.
WHITE-TAILED EAGLE
Sometimes referred to as sea eagles,
these birds may be Iceland’s most majestic species. With massive wingspans ranging 6½–8 feet (2–2½ meters), the white-tailed eagle seems like it would be hard to miss, but in fact it’s one of the most elusive creatures on the island. The western area of Iceland (particularly the Breiðfjörður region) affords the best chances for spotting this massive raptor. Fortunately for bird lovers—and less fortunately for sheep farmers—the white-tailed eagle population is on the rise, making casual sightings more likely than ever.
ARCTIC TERN
It’s nearly impossible to visit Iceland without encountering its Arctic tern—a small seabird with striking coloration, most notably its bright orange legs and beak. These birds migrate farther than any other animal on the planet, summering in Iceland and other parts of the Arctic. It isn’t just their beauty and their migratory prowess that makes these birds so remarkable; their ferocity is also widely renowned. Arctic terns are known to aggressively protect their nests, dive-bombing anything that steps close, regardless of their size. Arctic terns are ground nesters, and their spotted eggs and chicks blend in very easily to Icelandic grasses, making them too easy to miss and accidentally tread upon. Visitors should take care to avoid triggering a defensive response in these birds, as it requires them to use energy that could otherwise be used for foraging or warming their eggs.
ATLANTIC PUFFIN
It’s true that Atlantic puffins are available for consumption at many restaurants in Iceland, but most visitors interested in puffins are looking to see them happily alive in the wild. After all, Iceland is home to the largest Atlantic puffin colony in the world, with huge numbers arriving to the Vestmannaeyjar (Westman Islands) off the southern coast in order to breed. The second-best place to spot them is the scenic Látrabjarg bird cliffs in the Westfjords.
ARCTIC FOX
Iceland’s only native land mammal is arguably its cutest. These small carnivores can be white, especially in the winter, though their brown and gray morphs are more common to see. The best opportunity to see arctic foxes is in the Westfjords, where their food supply is plentiful and human encroachment is minimal. Foxes are protected in the Hornstrandir Nature Reserve, making them relatively easy to spot in the wild. Similarly, the Arctic Fox Centre in Súðavík offers a bevy of arctic fox info, and sometimes they even rehabilitate orphaned kits or injured adults, offering visitors a chance to see them up close.
Icelandic Mythology and Folklore
Icelandic mythology is pervasive in modern culture. Widespread belief in elves proves Iceland’s affinity for the supernatural, as does the revival of the ancient religion Ásatrú. Norse mythology accompanied those first intrepid Vikings more than 1,000 years ago, and plenty of stories have joined the Icelandic Eddas and Sagas since.
ELVES
Known as the huldufólk, or hidden people,
Icelandic elves aren’t so different from humans— just a bit more magical. They remain hidden in enchanted caves and rocks except on special occasions, when a lucky few may spot them wandering. Keep an eye out on New Year’s Eve and Midsummer in particular; you never know what you may see.
YULE LADS
The Yule Lads are said to be brothers descended from trolls, visiting children on the 13 nights leading up to Christmas. They were depicted as terrifying creatures until the late 1700s, when it was deemed that parents were essentially tormenting their children with these stories.
THE YULE CAT
Jólakötturinn, or the Yule Cat,
is said to be owned by the Yule Lads and their half-ogre, half-troll mother, Grýla. The Yule Cat, whose name falls a little short of its legend, is meant to inspire good behavior among children by threatening to devour anyone who does not receive new clothes for Christmas.
SEA MONSTERS
Vikings journeyed across the bitter arctic waters to settle on this desolate island, and today Icelanders still rely upon the sea for survival. Sea monsters could spell life or death for those taking to the water, so there are seemingly endless mythologies that describe various predators hunting fearful fishermen. The Sea Monster Museum in Bíldudalur in the Westfjords is the best place to hear more about these encounters.
THE LAND WIGHTS
One of the Icelandic sagas describes an incident in which the fearsome King Harald Bluetooth (for whom the wireless technology is named) intended to invade poor, vulnerable Iceland and so had his sorcerer morph into a whale
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