Harper's Bazaar India

THE MAGICIAN

ishal Anil Kothari is one of a kind. A third generation jeweller, he shunned traditional design in search of something more unconventional: India Moderne—a unique design language that reworks traditional motifs such as paisley about his inspirations, aesthetics, and what’s next. I wanted to be a sculptor, an artist. My family has been in the traditional business for three generations. When I joined my father, I felt a sense of continuity but also a lockdown. I had my own ideas. And a very strong design aesthetic. So I undid everything—the factory, the office, the design ethos. So in that sense you could say I am a first. A newbie. I believe in slow luxury. High artisanal handcrafted jewellery, with rare gemstones handpicked by me. My design vocabulary of India Moderne is really quite global. It draws from art, sculpture and motifs in architecture from India so there are Gothic, Indo-Saracenic, and Mughal influences in my work. Salvador Dalí has had a strong influence on my work. I am inspired by art, architectural motifs, nature, bands like Pink Floyd and Led Zeppelin, and musicians like Bob Dylan. And most recently the baroque edifice and interiors of The Royal Opera House, Mumbai. I am creating a line of jewellery based on this. I see jewellery as self-expression, not adornment. I have an exciting auction season ahead of me along with shows in Europe, the US, and the Middle East. I sit on the committee of the Peabody Essex Museum in Massachusetts. I have been invited to talk at a couple of museums about my creative practice. My flagship store will open in November at The Royal Opera House. It is such a privilege to be housed in such an iconic monument. Like everything I will do it will be small. And enthralling, I hope.

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