Decanter

Andrew Jefford

Something strange is going on, at least in France. We’re all beneficiaries. And when we try to account for this strangeness, it’s hard not to think of a blonde-haired girl and three bowls of breakfast porridge. More on Goldilocks later.

Heat is the issue, and its effect on vintage quality. It won’t have escaped the attention of readers that we are into an amazing six-vintage run

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