Kowl Salwar This Salwar style most resembles the dhoti salwar. Perhaps this is the dhoti salwar.

The fabric will be cut crosswise. Light weight fabrics like crepe, Italian crepe, etc.; suit this style as they give a nice fall to the salwar. It will be easier to understand this draft if you have a prior experience in sewing salwar. Material Required: 3 meters of 42 width. Measurements: Length of the salwar Leg round Waist Seat Crotch length (15 16 is standard measure for adults) Waist band length (7 is the standard measure for adults) Pattern Drafting: Fig 1: Waist Band

A Grain Line 2 Layers B

1. 2.

AB = length of the waist band (7is the standard measure for adults) + 2 for folding on top (for adding the drawstring). AD = Seat /2 + 5 or more depending on the desired loose fit.

Fig 2: Salwar A D

I 4 Layers
O N F O L D

On Fold

1.

2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

ABCD is the cloth. Fold along DC. Again bring C on AB to form the pink dotted line EF. Now BF will form ON FOLD. The salwar will be drafted within the triangle BEF. BEF will be 4 layers. Within BEF mark GH = leg round + 1 FH = Full length of salwar length of waist band (7 is standard measure for adults) + 2 - 8 (15 7, see below) HI = Crotch length for the bottom portion (ie., total crotch length - waist band length which is 15 7= 8) + 1 Cut along GHFJI. JF will be joined with the waist band. Pleats will be taken along JF. The leg round will be triangular in shape. So the casing for this has to be cut in a triangular shape and sewed.

Sewing points: 1. The pleats will be joined from the extreme side (outer edge) of the waist band for each leg. 2. From the point F measure about 2 and take the first pleat in any direction (facing front or back) and pin it to the side portion (outer thigh) of the waist band. 3. All the pleats in the front should face the same direction as the first pleat. 4. All the pleats in the back should face in the opposite direction of the first pleat. So pleats will start from outer side and end towards the inner side (unlike in normal salwar where pleats start from inner side and move outwards). 5. Do the same for the other leg. 6. Remaining sewing steps will be same as that for a normal salwar.