SUBMITED BY: S.M.

Salahuddin Bin Azad ID: 092-23-1473 BATCH: 12th Department of Textile Engineering Daffodil International University

REPORT ON INTERSTOFF APPERALS LIMITED

Supervised By Abdullah Al Mamun Assistant professor Department of Textile Engineering Daffodil International University

Profile of Interstoff Apparels Ltd.

Name: Type: finishing).

INTERSTOFF APPERALS LIMITED. 100% export oriented knit/woven garments manufacturing and exporting. It

has also fully vertically integrated Fabric manufacturing plant (knitting, dying and Status: Private limited company.

Location: Chandra, Kaliakoir, Gazipur, Bangladesh. Year of establishment: February 1999.

Year of starting production: 2000.

Sponsors: Mercantile Bank Ltd, Address: City Office: House # 43 (1st Floor), Road # 35/A, Gulshan-2, Dhaka-1212, Bangladesh. Tel. No. (8802) 881 7881, 989 4544; Fax No. (8802) 882 8458, e-mail shahriar@araf.bangla.net, shafiq@icl.bdrmg.com. Head Office & Factory: Chandra, Kaliakoir, Gazipur, Bangladesh. Tel. No. (8802) 928 9103. (88) 06822 51925; Fax No. (8802) 8828458, e-mail: shafiq@icl.bdrmg.com Production Capacity Currently 1 million pieces of garment per month. 2, 08,000 kg of fabric per month.

Project cost: US$ 20 million per year.

Total area: Total floor space is 2, 00,000 sft. Total sewing line: 31. Production lead time: 90 days. Production information: 100% knit garments manufacturers. Dining room: The factory has most hygienic dining facility for its workers and staff 800 workers can set there at a time for lunch.

Products & Customers

Fashion T-shirts, Polo shirts, Knitted shorts,

Leggings

Nightwear and School wear etc. The factory ensures Safe/Metal-free garments as per customer's requirements, through practice of Metal Detection & Needle/ Metal Control procedures. IAL has executed following Export Orders recently: Item Men's Pajama Set Men's Lounge-wears Girls Top, Girls' Leggings, Skirts Men's Fashion Polo Shirts Character Printed/Panel Boys' TShirts Baby Wears Children's Sleepwear Mens Polo shirt Boys Polo shirt Customer Bhs Ash City & Bhs Pull and Beer, ZARA, MARKS & SPENCER and Bhs Bhs MARKS & SPENCER and Bhs, MARKS & SPENCER, Bhs Bhs Tesco, Bhs & Ash City Mother Care

Certification of the factory: Wrap, ISO 9001:2000, FLO, CTPAT certified. Stair: 02 (each floor). Exit sign: 24. First aid box: 25. Medical facilities: Full time doctor and trained nurse. Accident log book: Accident log book regularly maintained. Age limitation of worker: Minimum 18 years and above. Fabric and accessories storage: Organization has systematic in house storage area sufficient enough to keep fabric and accessories systematically. All items are hanged with bin card and these are maintained properly.

Personal protective equipment: 1. Metal gloves. 2. Needle guard. 4

3. Eye guard. 4. Polly covers. 5. Belt cover. 6. Face musk.

Different Departments:
1. Management. 2. Finance and accounting. 3. Procurement. 4. Commercial. 5. Human resource, Admin and Compliance. 6. Merchandising. 7. Marketing and development. 8. Garments. 9. Fabrics. 10. Technical service department. 11. Print shop. Board of director: Mr. Nazim Uddin, Chairman. Mr. Shahriar Alam, Managing Director Mr. Shaikh Mohammad, Director. Mr. Naimul Bashar Chowdhury, Director.

Layout for going to the INTERSTOFF APPARELS LIMITED from Gazipur , Dhaka:

Pic: Layout of going to interstoff apparels limited from gazipur, Dhaka 6

LAY OUT PLAN OF Interstoff Apparels limited

6th FLOOR Sewing section, Cutting section, Sample department, Cad section, Training Room.

5th FLOOR Merchandising Unit (development, Production), Sewing Section

4TH FLOOR Human Resource Department, Administration Department, Accessories Store, Sewing Section, Complete Garments Store

3RD FLOOR Conference Room, Garments Showroom, Finishing & Packaging Section

2ND FLOOR Fabric Store (Production), Research & Development Section, IT Section, Procurement Section, Undyed Fabric Relaxing Area, Dyeing lab

GROUND FLOOR/ 1ST FLOOR Fabric Inspection, Dyeing section, Fabric Store (Sample), Security Section, Quality control

PROCESS FLOWCHART OF FIBRE TO GARMENT

FIBRES SPINNING GREY/MELANG YARN GREY/DYE YARN DYED FIBRE YARN DYING

FLAMENT YARN

DYED YARN

WEAVING

KNITTING

HAND LOOM

POWER LOOM

SHUTTLE LESS LOOM

WARP KNITTING

WEFT KNITTING

WOVEN FABRIC DYEING FINISHING GARMENT MAKING GARMENTS FINISHED FABRIC

KNITTED FABRIC DYEING FINISHING

Order File Received Fabric Received for Size Set

Shrinkag e

Yes

Test

Shrinkage Report

Process Flow Chart for Garment Manufacturing

No Pattern Rectify Size Set Cutting Size Set Sewing

Passed Yes Bulk Cutting

No

Print Requireme nt

Yes

Printing

No
Embroider y Requireme nt

Yes

Embroidery

No Sewing 9

Wash Requirement s

Yes Wash

No
Transfer Print Requireme nt

Yes

Transfer Print

Iron

No

Folding/ Hankering

Poly Packing Cartooning Ex. Factory

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GENARAL DISCUSSION ABOUT GARMENT MANUFACTURING

PROCESS FLOW CHART OF GARMENT MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Design / Sketch Pattern Design Sample Making Production Pattern Grading Marker Making Spreading Cutting Sorting/Bundling Sewing/Assembling Inspection Pressing/ Finishing Final Inspection Packing Dispatch

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Theoretically discussion
DESIGN/ SKETCH:

For the production of knit garments, or woven garments a sketch of a particular garment including its design features is essential to produce on paper so that after manufacturing of that garment could be verified or checked whether could be done manually or with the help of computer. PATTERN DESIGN:

Hard paper copy of each component of the garment of exact dimension of each component is called pattern. The patterns also include seam allowance, trimming allowance, dirts, and pleats, ease allowance, any special design etc affairs. Pattern design could also be done manually or with the help of computer. SAMPLE MAKING:

The patterns are used to cut the fabric. Then the garment components in fabric form are used to sew/assemble the garment. Sample garment manufacturing is to be done by a very efficient and technically sound person. PRODUCTION PATTERN:

The patterns of the approved sample garment are used for making production pattern. During production pattern making, sometimes it may be necessary to modify patterns design if buyer or appropriate authority suggests any minor modification. GRADING:

Normally for large scale garments production of any style needs different sizes to produce from a set of particular size of patterns, the patterns of different sizes are produced by using grade rule which is called grading.

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MARKER MAKING:

All the pattern pieces for all the required sizes are arranged n the paper in such a way so that maximum number of garments could be produced with minimum fabric wastag4e. Markers are made for 6, 12, 18, 24 etc. pieces. Marker is also useful to estimate fabricalculations. SPREADING:

It is the process of arranging fabrics on the spreading table as per length and width of the marker in stack form. Normally height of the lay/fabric is limited up to maximum six inches high. But 4 inch to 5 inch height of the lay is safe. FABRIC CUTTING:

On the fabric lay/spread the marker paper is placed carefully and accurately, and pinned with the fabric to avoid unwanted movement or displacement of the marker paper. Normally straight knife cutting machine is used to cut out the garment component as per exact dimension of each patterns in stack form, care must be taken to avoid cutting defects. SORTING/ BUNDLING:

After cutting the entire fabric lay, all the garments components in stack form is shorted out as per size and color. To avoid mistake in sorting, it is better to use code number on eachpattern. SEWING OR ASSEMBLING:

It is the most important department/ section of a garment manufacturing industry. Sewing machines of different types are arranged as a vertical line to assemble the garments. Sequence of types of sewing machine arrangement depends on sequence of assembling operations. Number of sewing machine per line varies from 20 noses to 60 noses depending on the style of the garment to be produce. Production pr line pr hour also varies from 100 to 150 pieces depending on specific circumstances.

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INSPECTION:

Each and every garment after sewing passes through the inspection table/ point, where the garments are thoroughly and carefully checked to detect/find any defect if present in the garment. The defects may be for example variation of measurement, sewing defect, fabric defects, spots etc. if the defect is possible to overcome, then the garment is sent to the respective person for correction. If the defect is not correction able, then the garment is separated as wastage. PRESSING/ FINISHING:

After passing through the inspection table, each garment is normally ironed/ pressed to remove unwanted crease and to improve the smoothness, so that the garments looks nice to the customer. Folding of the garment is also done here for poly packing of the garments as per required dimension. FINAL INSPECTION:

It is the last stage of inspection f the manufactured garments on behalf of the garment manufacturing organization, to detect any defective garments before packing. PACKING:

After final inspection, the garments are poly-packed, dozen-wise, color wise, size ratio wise, bundled and packed in the cartoon. The cartoon is marked with important information in printed form which is seen from outside the cartoon easily. 15. Dispatch: The cartoons of the manufactured garments are delivered or placed in the dispatch department or finished product god own, from where the garments lot is delivered for shipment.

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Sample section layout

Entrance

Pattern table

I
Pattern table

Product develop table

Rack

Table Cutting & Spreading table Rack

Fabric inventory rack Table Quality check table Sewing tables

Cutting & Spreading table

Quality check table Ironing table

Ironing table

Sewing tables

Rack Sewing tables

Sewing tables

Sewing tables

Toilet

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Sewing tables

Sample section Basic flow chart of sample section

Design Pattern making Fabric cutting according to pattern Print / embroidery Sewing Quality check Finishing Send to buyer

Basic flow chart of production

Production pattern Measurement list Pattern making Pre production sample Production sample Shipment sample

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Quality check:
Extra thread & extra fabric cutting. Dirty spots are removed by cleaning gun & air. (When cleaning gun is used, extra heavy fabric is used under the sample to avoid of touch of chemical with hand) Print color check. Upper armhole shape should not be v-shape after ironing.

Basic flow chart of a product develop

Art work (send by buyer) Measurement sheet (reference) Pattern making Fabric cutting Fabric sewing Quality check Washing (if required) Ironing Quality check Send to buyer Styling check Fit check Costing Order Production pattern

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Pattern making flowchart

Pattern board Sample taken (if any) Size chart taken Follow measurement Drawing on the board Pattern cutting

Pattern making process:

Fig: pattern board

Fig: Sample taken

Fig: Size chart taken

Fig: Follow measurement

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Fig: Drawing

Fig: Pattern cutting

Sample section process:

to make a sample of desired size & style. each & individual components of a garment. Cutting fabric Cut the parts of garment according to the shape of pattern. If parts of garment are not cut to correct shape, then the garment which is made by these parts should not be correct in shape. The accurate cutting of fabric depends on the sharpness of knife, skillness of operator & concentration of operator on his work. If required fabric will be sent In print shop or embroidery section after cutting fabric. Sewing Joining together of components of a garments that all involves in sewing in one form or another. There are a large number of different categories of sewing machine. Every category of sewing machine produces a specific type of stitch formation depending on the number of needles, loppers & threads which combine to construct the stitch. Quality check & finishing In quality checking some factors are concerned. Measurements are checking, Extra fabric & thread are checking & cutting. Marking dirt & remove this by cleaning gun which is made by thinner chemical. Thinner is sprayed on garments & give air jet flow then dirt is remove. Print or embroidery is checking. Upper armhole shape should not be v-shaped after ironing. Spot lifter is used for removing oil mark, grease or food. Then garments are ironing & packing with necessary sticker like sewing ticket, barcode sticker etc. Buyer When buyer gets a sample, he or she checks the style, size & fitting, color. If it is approved, take preparation for bulk production or reply those planning which was started on pattern making. 20 Pattern making It is a hard paper which is made by following all the specification of art work sheet of Art work sheet

Art work sheet is papers of from buyer with measurement, sketch & necessary instruction

Sample section activities

Merchandiser:

Merchandising means goods which are bought & sold. Merchandising means the activities of selling or buying of a product. The complete definition of merchandising is following on: All the activities involves in procuring an export order of a specific design of any garment of specific design of quality buying raw materials & accessories to produce the garment, process of production of garment, maintaining required quality level sign between two parties, to arrange shipment with in scheduled time is known as merchandising. Bring the order from buyer and developed the product, then merchandiser give the ordering product sample to in charge of the factory. Duties of a merchandiser: Store Swatch making Approval of swatch Meeting Planning Scheduling Production report Quality report Final inspection Shipment pattern. In charge:

The factory in charge gives the ordering product to pattern master for making sample

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Pattern master:

The activities of pattern are much more important. He makes the pattern very carefully. A well skilled pattern master is an asset for a factory. Actually bulk production ordering is depending on pattern master activities. Cutting supervisor: After making the pattern, time to starting the activities of cutting supervisor. The person who cut the fabric according to pattern are called cutting supervisor. Then cutting supervisor sends the cutting fabric in sewing section for sewing the garment. Sewing operators: Sewing operators activities are another most thing for a garment. All skilled sewing operators give the factory timely shipment. In sewing section, operators are sewing the fabric according to cutting and give the actual product shape. Quality inspector: After finishing all type of sewing the product send to the quality inspector check the product very carefully. Various types of spots, threads which are not sign for better quality of products are removed by the quality inspector. Ironing: In this section, products are finishing by the ironing. The iron operators does his work very carefully because he needs to avoid the over pressing on the fabric. Final quality inspector: After finishing the ironing, the products send for the final inspection for quality check. In this section, the inspector checks the measurement of all side & compares the measurement with buyer requirement measurement. Packing & send to buyer: After finishing all types of inspection, the products send for packing section for packing. Then finally the products send to buyer for approval.

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Total manpower of sample section:

Pattern master: 4 persons. Cutter operator: 4 persons. Sewing operators: 38 persons. Iron operator: 3 persons. Quality inspector: 7 persons. Asst: Q.C. manager: 1 person. Sample in charge: 1 person Total: 58 persons.

Production per day in sample section: 100-120 pieces. Samples are used for:
Approved to bulk production. Avoid fitting problem. To development of garments. Act as a preproduction.

For developing in sample section:

Needed availability of skilled operators. Necessary to increasing number of skilled operators. High quality of machine needed. Have to increasing co-operation between each other. Increasing the availability of auto pattern cutting machine. Increasing the number of skilled operator to run the auto pattern cutting machine. Developing pattern designing operators.

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Cutting section layout

B.knife
T T

Fusing

Toilet

T
T Quality check table

Bundling T

Rack Rack Rack Rack Rack

Cutting T.

Spreading & cutting table.

Spreading & cutting table.

Office Office

Entrance Lift

Fabric relaxation area

Store Cad section

Carton area

Manual cutting T.

Manual cutting T.

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R. A.

Dining room

W.R

Cutting flowchart
File receive Size set Pattern correction Bulk cutting Print/Embroidery Sewing input

CAD flow chart

Base size pattern Placing digitizing board Scanning Grading (According to size) Marker making Ratio making (According to p. o. sheet) Final marker Print by plotter

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Introduction:
In garments industries fabric is cut from lay & spreading with accuracy & properly which is termed as fabric cutting. Pattern or marker outline is used to cut the fabric. Fabric cutting is very important as if something is cut in wrong way, cannot be rectified. The accurate cutting of parts of garments is depending on the method of cutting & sometimes depends on the planning & making of marker. In Interstoff Apparels Ltd cutting section is placed on 5th floor. Cad section is also included with cutting section.

Cutting section contains:

File receive (Purchase order sheet) Buyer & seller information, Buyer & seller contact, Cost & quantity, Terms & condition, Transit etc. (Fabric order sheet) (Mini marker) (Trim card) (Fabric swatch) (Specification sheet) (Accessories details) Fabric details, Approved lab deep, Color code etc. Sketch of minimize marker, Marker making for bulk production by changing ratio. Finishing accessories, Sticker, Pound sticker, Care label etc. Approved fabric swatch by buyer. Its include measurement of various part of a garment. Name of size, color, supplier & quantity of various types of accessories. As like, Technical label, Hang tag, Pound sticker, Ratio sticker, Blister sticker, carton etc. (Production sheet) 27

Bar code, Selling price, Unit cost, etc. (Design sheet)

Fabric composition, Fabric consumption, color, Yarn count, Fabric weight, Zip, confirmation, First shipment date, Wash/Finish, etc. Size set (Pattern) (Sample) (Fabric) From sample section. From sample section. From store/Dyeing section. Pattern correction (Sewing) (Measurement) (Report/Correction)

Bulk cutting (Pattern amendment) (Fabric arrange) (Fabric relax) (Marker ratio) (Marker) (Fabric lay) (Cutting machine) (Short out) (Sticker) (Bundling) (Reject replaces) 28

CAD
Computer-aided design (CAD) is the use of computer technology for the design of objects, real
or virtual. CAD often involves more than just shapes. As in the manual drafting of technical and engineering drawings, the output of CAD often must convey also symbolic information such as materials, processes, dimensions, and tolerances, according to application-specific conventions. CAD may be used to design curves and figures in two-dimensional ("2D") space; or curves, surfaces, and solids in three-dimensional ("3D") objects.

Cad executive activities:

Pattern making & booking. All pattern grading for booking & costing. Production pattern grading for size set. Production marker for Interstoff clothing limited. Size grading pattern for printing plotter cutting machine. All kinds of wash allowance added. Pattern adjustment. Emails send/received.

Cad machines specification:

First software:

Name: Lectra. Origin: Germany. Pattern software model name: Modaris 4.2C4. Marker software model name: Diamina V5R2. Plotter machine brand name: Alys 30.

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Second software:

Name: GT cad. Origin: Bangladesh. Pattern software model name: GT V2007. Marker software model name: GTV2007. Plotter machine brand name: IOLINE F J8. Others machine: 1

Name: Auto cutter machine. Origin: Japan. Brand name: Winda. Others machine: 2

Name: Digitize machine. Origin: Germany. Brand name: Lectra.

Cad manpower: 04 persons.

Cad executive: 01 person. Pattern & grading making operator: 02 persons. Marker making operator: 01 person.

Marker

30

Marker is a thin paper which contains all pattern pieces of a garment of different size for a particular style. Marker is essential for large production.

Points consider before marker making:

Nature of the fabric. Lay planning. Alignment of pattern pieces according to grain line. Requirements of cutting. Production planning.

Methods of marker making:

Marker is manufactured after pattern making of a garment. The width of the marker is not greater than fabric width. It is made generally with white thin paper or newspaper. All he large size pattern to be seated on a marker paper. Then the gap places of marker are to be filled up with small pattern. As a result we get greater marker efficiency. It is work of experience and knowledgeable person. Marker can be made in the following methods: Manual marker making. Computerized marker making.

Marker making by computerized method:

Digitizing and storage of master pattern. Independent input and storage of grade rules. Modification of master pattern via digitizer or color graphics. Creation of new style via digitizer or color graphics screen. Interactive logical lay planning. Plotting & storage of markers. Plotting of single or nested shapes. Automatic lay planning. 31

Automatic laser cutting of pattern. Automatic knife cutting of multi ply lays. Automatic digitizing and grading utilizing scanners.

Marker efficiency:
The ratio of the area used by the pattern to the area of the marker represented as a percentage is called marker efficiency. This indicates the fabric using ability of a marker. So mathematically we can write: Area of the pattern pieces of the marker Marker efficiency = Area of the marker 100

Factors influences on marker efficiency:

Manufacture of marker. Size of garments. Length of marker. Pattern engineering. Nature of fabrics. Method of marker making. Marker width.

Inspection during marker making:

To check the marker if it is 1 way or 2 way. Grain direction checking. Pattern pieces count in relation with size ratio. Pattern to pattern distance. Proper control of line should be checked. Professional marking. 32

Minimize check-stripe if possible.

Cutting section information:

Tables:

Cutting table: 03. Sticker table: 01. Quality control table: 02. Numbering table: 01. Bundling table: 01. Print check table: 01. TOTAL: 09. Machines:

Spreading machine: 02. Straight knife cutting machine: 09. Fusing machine: 02. Band knife cutting machine: 01. GSM cutter machine: 01. GSM measurement machine: 01. Sticker machine: 06. Fabric weight machine: 01. TOTAL: 23.

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Attentiveness during pattern cutter machine using:

Electronic supply must be having grounding with voltage value specified on the operating manual when powering on. Touching pen, tool and its accessories are forbidden when plotter on working. Do not touch plotting head and keep the hands and the other things for away from cutting area. The plotter work environment must keep clean net and air circulates. After ending the cutting work power should be off and cutting surface is not allowed to put on cutting things. Only carried out by personal trained on authorized by the manufacturer to install, operate maintenance and repair the machine.

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Fig: Auto pattern cutter machine.

Cutting section work procedure for stripe fabric:

Store section Cutting section Laying by lay pen Marking by pen according to pattern paper Cutting by fabric cutter Stickering Bundling Quality inspection Sewing input

Cutting manpower:
Manager: 01. In charge: 01. Supervisors: 13. Assistant officer: 12. Auto spreader operator: 02. Input man: 12. Bundle man: 22. Numbering man: 06. Writer man: 08. Scissor man: 35. Helper: 24. 35

TOTAL: 136.

Defects of cutting section:

Pattern size mistake. Error graphics mark. Problem occurs in fabric lay. Defect of cutter machine. Bundle mistake. Defect fabric. Uneven cutting. Fabric shade problem. Marker ratio problem. GSM problem. Shrinkage problem. Crease mark problem. Marker setting problem. Allowance problem. Sharpness problem of cutting equipment.

Inspection during spreading:

Ply length should be measured. Ply tension & relation before cutting. Spreading should be done according to check-stripe if present. Starting points are the same. Ply should be laid properly, if possible them computerized system may be involved. 36

Theoretically discussion about m/cs of cutting section:

Auto spreader: This is one of the most important machines used in cutting section & next processes largely depend on the proper laying of fabric by the highest performance of this machine & operator. This machine is providing the best efficiency of laying fabric. Time consuming made the clear difference between the auto spreading & the manual spreading which considered it as dependable to the manufacturers & made them pleased by delivering maximum output from the cutting section which is ultimately affecting positively the total production capacity. The fabric with the width of maximum 74 & the length of maximum 18000mm can be spread by this machine & highest 100 lay of fabric can be obtained. Lay number largely depends on the fabric quality. If fabric quality is high then higher number of lay is achievable. Straight knife cutter: This is the most important machine in the cutting room. Carefulness must need because of a small mistake can make a huge loss of fabric which must be avoided & it can be possible by using efficient cutter & skilled operator. Depth of fabric layer must be considered during cutting because higher layer takes much more attention than lower layer of fabric. Blade of cutter must be sharper. Another considerable matter is cutting speed which should be in control. After cutting the fabric, the edge of cutting pattern should be nice & clean. When the parts of fabric are cut from the fabric lay, there is friction generated between the fabric & cutting knife, so that heat is generated in the knife. Sometimes due to too much heat generated by friction may cause burn of the edge 37

of cutting fabric it is most important to take opportunities to remove heat from the knife & it can be removed by sharpening the knife, using anti fusing paper & spraying silicon lubricant in the cutting knife during cutting. The consistency of fabric cutting is an important factor. The shape of cutting parts must be same from up to bottom of fabric plies. Poor skill & concentration in work may cause the inconsistency in cutting. Band knife cutter: Band knives are used when a higher standard cutting accuracy is required. It is also used for cutting less width fabric like placket, neck rib, collars & cuff. Another advantage of this machine is that 90 angle of the fabric possible to cut. Air pressure is used here to move the fabric smoothly. Fusing machine: Fusing is an alternative method of joining fabrics by heat & pressure with interlining. At first the part of garment which is to be fused spread & then the interlining fabric is placed on it & applied required pressure & temperature smoothly. Resin on coating of interlining is melt by heat in to the fabric under pressure. When it becomes cool & hard both the fabric & interlining are attached. This method is only used for joining interlining by fusing but cannot be used for normal sewing. Fusing temperature depends on types of fusing. Too low temperature gives poor flow & poor subsequent adhesion. Too high temperature gives too much flow which reduces the performance. Fusing temperature should be from 150c to 170c .The pressure should be uniform & sufficient during fusing. Too low pressure reduces penetration. Too high pressure provides excessive penetration of resin.

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Machine specification:

Spreading machine specification: Brand name: Assyst Bulmer. Model name: E 600-30/31. Country of origin: Germany. Quantity: 02. Machine type: Auto. Per shift capacity: 9000*2. Special attachment: Tube/Flat. Weight: 200 kg. Machine volt: 400v, 50 Hz.

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Fig: Spreading machine. Cutting machine specification: Brand name: Eastman. Model name: KS-AU-V. Country of origin: Japan. Quantity: 09. Machine type: Auto. Per hour capacity: 100-150 lay. Weight: 15 kg. Machine volt: 220. Speed: 300-3600 rpm. Height: 8 inch.

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Fig: Cutting machine. Fusing machine specification: Brand name: Hashima. Model name: EC-700N. Country of origin: China. Quantity: 02. Machine type: Auto. Per hour capacity: 100. Weight: 220 kg. Machine volt: 220. Belt speed: 30-36 rpm. Temperature: 125-180 degree.

41

Fig: Fusing machine.

Other machine specification:

GSM measurement machine: Model: MWP-300. Origin: Japan. Maximum capacity: 300 gm. Minimum capacity: 0.2 gm. Power: 12v. Sticker machine: Brand: BLITZ. Model: 2253. Origin: India. Maximum capacity: 60 per hr. Fig: Sticker machine. Fig: GSM measurement machine.

Responsibilities of cutting section operators:

Check all motors terminals. Check & clean fluff & dirt at all motors fan covers. Clean main panels. Check all inverter. Check all circuit breakers. Check all parameters of controller. Check all indicating lamps. Check all on/off switches. Check all fabric centering device.

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Check all sensors. Check photo cell of edge filler. Check & clean all drives. Complete cleaning of machine. Check all belts & belt tension. Check cutting device & its gear box.

Inspection during cutting:

Cutting should be done as per marker. Cut edge should be clean and smooth. Correct size should be checked. Notch cutting should be clean. Drill marks should be in accurate place. After cutting, check one by one, if any defect found then replacing it.

Quality issues of cutting:

Fabric: o Dia. o Gsm. o Shade variation. o Hole. o Spot. o Fly yarn. o Dead cotton. o Naps. o Uneven. o Shrinkage. o Material to material variation. o Batch to batch variation. 43

Other: o Shade problem. o Irregular supply. o Collar problem. o Stripe matching Problem. o Supply of fabric due to Q.C.

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Introduction:
The driving power of printing machine is switched on to draw the fabric forward and also to drive the printing rollers, and indirectly the color furnishing rollers. The printing rollers, and their pressure against the central large pressure cylinder, cause this to rotate at the same peripheral speed and carry the fabric forward with it. There should be no slip between the fabric thus being printed and the surface of each printing roller otherwise the colored pattern would become blurred. The color furnishing roller picks up color paste from the through in which it rotates and impresses this color on the printing roller. This color paste fills up the engraved parts and the doctor knife scrapes off excess color. At this stage the color printing roller is free from color on its surface except where the engraved pattern is filled with color paste. As the color printing roller comes in contact with the fabric and is presses against it so color transference takes place and that particular part of the pattern is impressed on the fabric. Then, as the color printing roller continues its rotation, the lint doctor scrapes off any pieces of lint, loose fibers or threads which may have rubbed off the fabric being printed. Thus the surface of this roller is maintained clean. Each color printing roller continues to impress its part of the pattern on the fabric as long as the machine is in operation. Naturally, great care has to be taken to adjust the color printing rollers so that the printing on textiles register o contribute their part of the pattern at the correct times and places. The machine has various devices to assist this and the differential geared device is very ingenious and effective. Meanwhile the fully printed fabrics continue to move forwarded to the point at which it 45

leaves the central cylinder. Thence it is led through a drying and steaming chamber to fix the printed colors whiles the back grey is led away to be washed for further use. The blanket is endless and continuous to go round and round the cylinder until it becomes sufficiently soiled to warrant its removal for washing. Printing machines of this kind can be provided with up to fourteen color printing rollers and so they are able to produce patterns in the corresponding number of colors. As described above the machine prints only one side of the fabric. If it is required to print both sides then the central cylinder, with its accompanying printing and furnishing rollers, is duplicated.

Flow chart for printing shop

Art work receiving Graphics Exposing/Screen transfer Test printing Approve d Yes Production No

Production per day: 6000-7000 pieces. Manpower:

Manager: 01 person. Senior executive: 02 persons. Store officer: 01 person. Assistant officer: 02 persons. Supervisor: 03 persons. Chief designer: 01 person.

Total=110 persons
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Color man: 03 persons. Assistant color man: 03 persons. Operator: 04 persons. Assistant operator: 04 persons. Quality: 24 persons. QC junior executive: 03 persons. Senior inspector: 03 persons. Expose man: 02 persons. Screen washing man: 02 persons.

Defects in printing:
Color mistake. Print mistake. Fabric size mistake. Print size mistake. Bundling number mistake. Design/Matching problem. Placement mistake. Color shade matching problem.

Machines used in printing section:

Machine name Auto printing machine Dryer/curing machine Heat press machine Color mixing machine Color balancing machine Hand dryer Flock machine 47 01. 08. 01. Quantity 02. 02. 02. 01.

Spray gun

04.

How to make a print:

Buyer sends an art paper. Find out all point. Make positive. Make exposing set up. Make sample. Contract seal. Going to production. Note: 1. before embroidery fabric going to make fusing. 2. after fusing fabric going to print. 3. Complete print fabric going to embroidery.

Machines specification: (used in printing section)

Exposing machine specification Brand name: KIPPAX. Model: 1705-Ex-01. Origin: Austria. Quantity: 01. Capacity: 50-60 pieces per hr. Temperature: 2000 watt. Weight: 150 kg. Time: 50 sec per screen. Use: To make positive from negative.

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Fig: Exposing machine.

Drying machine specification Brand name: KIPPAX. Model: 1709-PT-01. Origin: Austria. Quantity: 01. Capacity: 200 per day. Temperature: 50-60. Weight: 300 kg. Time: 1hr. Use: For screen drying.

49

Fig: Dryer.

Circular printing machine specification Brand name: MHM. Model: Origin: Germany Quantity: 02. Capacity: 600 per day. Motor type: Servo. Weight: 320 kg. Time: 1 hr. Use: For circular printing.

50

Fig: Circular printing machine. (Auto)

Need to be checked of circular printing machine:

Check & clean fluff & dirt at all motors fan covers. Check all motors terminals. Clean main panels. Clean inverters of main motor & check its fans. Check all circuit breakers, magnetic contactors & relays. Check air pressure & adjust. Check calibration touch screen. Check all pneumatic solenoids. Check all emergency switches. Check all network jacks. Check all inverter & their fan. Check all station squeeze operation. Check drive motor coupling. Check all air line and cylinder. Check all stations alignment. Check vibration of machine. Check all stations squeeze motor sound. 51

Check setting of flush cure. Check all on/off switches.

Curing machine specification Brand name: MHM. Model: Sync 05. Origin: Germany Quantity: 02. Capacity: 60 per hr. Motor type: Servo. Weight: About 250 kg. Time: 1min per piece. Use: For more stability of color.

52

Fig: Curing machine.

Curing machine activities:

To make the print permanent. To change the color shade. To increase the color stability. To increase color suitability. To increase brightness of the color.

Requirement during screening:

Screen design Solid Spray High built Exposing time 80-100 sec 30-40 sec 200-300 sec Mesh count 43,54 90,79 16,21 Drying temperature 70-80 degree 70-80 degree 50-60 degree Drying time 1 hour 1 hour 24 hour

A Short note about screen:

At first screen will be solid color. After giving emulsion the screen color will be changed and getting more stability. Bolting or mesh fabric adjusts with the screen. In printing word, the screen is called negative. 53

A screen is 50 times used. After using 1 time its needed to rectifying by wash by strip powder.

Screen setting flowchart

Pattern making Negative placing Screen setting on the table Marking on the table according to screen setting Fabric placing according to marked line Printing paste placing Air spraying

Different types of print:

Two kind of printing: Manual printing. Machine printing.

Printing types: Water base Plastics sale print. Puff print. Glow in the dark print. Striker print. Flock print. Pigment print. Discharge print. Foil print. Gloss print. Glitter print. Rubber print. 54 Oil base Water base Oil base Water base Oil base

High built. Flock print. Metallic print.

Color room information for printing:

Primary color: Red. Yellow. Blue.

For pigment print preparation needed: Binder. Thickener. Water.

Chemicals used in printing: Hardener: o To fix the emulsion. o To stable the design during screening. Photo emulsion: o To prepare the screen. 55

Synthetic rubber solution: o It makes possible to attach high pressure.

Note Self paste: Plastic sell. Self color: Discharge.

56

Sewing table

Sewing table

Sewing Sewing table table

Sewing table

Sewing table

Sewing table

Inspection table

Sewing section layout

Sewing table

Sewing table

Inspection table

Sewing table

Sewing table

Sewing table

Sewing table

Sewing table

Sewing table

Sewing table

Sewing table

Sewing table

Entrance

Toilet

Lift

Office Office

57

Sewing table Sewing table

Toilet

Toilet

Various types of product:

T shirt 1. Basic. 2. Semi basic. 3. Critical. Polo shirt 1. Basic. 2. Semi basic. 3. Critical. Vest. Jacket. Bottom. Children wear. Ladies wear. Tank top. Jogger.

A short flow chart for sewing section

Sample collection Input ready garment Accessories collection 58

 Related machine collection Man power Process layout Sewing Quality check Out put garment

Different parts of different types of product:

Polo shirt: Collar Collar band Shoulder Sleeve Placket Arm hole Chest Side seam Care label Body hem Bottom: Waist Front rise Rise across back

Inside leg

59

Leg opening T-Shirt Neck Shoulder Back tape Front neck stitch Shoulder Sleeve opening Chest Side seam

Hem depth

Work aids & sewing:

Work aids of sewing machine means the additional work aids which are attached with the general sewing machine to increase production, to reduce faults and to increase quality is called work aids. Work aids can be fitted with the machines easily. Generally the following work aids are used: Guide. Pressure foot. Compensation foot. Stitching jig. Rack guide. Light. Folder. Slack feeding. Elastification. Compressed air. Latch back device. Stacker. 60

Inspection during sewing:

Before sewing its duty to check numbering properly. Measurements of the parts should be checked. Stitching defect like puckers, slipped stitch, unbalanced stitch etc should be checked. Check needle properly. Position of buttons, label, zipper etc should be checked

SEWING SECTION
List of observation of products Sl 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. Date 13/02/10 14/02/10 Product name Top Top Short Bottom T-Shirt Bottom T-Shirt T-Shirt Top T-Shirt T-Shirt Top Top Polo Shirt Polo T-Shirt Mans Polo Polo Shirt Mans Polo Polo Polo Polo Buyer name M&S T J Maxx D-Hams 61 Style 3668T 4707 3024 3660C 3023 4435 7260 3900J 1879I 3618C 4706E 3629N 3545 7244E 1881I 561 129 322 129 561 057 Size 5-6 12-18 11-12 12-18 6-7 11-12 2-3 to 5-6 6-7 11-12 18-24 18-24 18-24 18-24 2-3 9-10 14-16 5-6 7-8 8-10 XXL 15-16 Color Yellow Pink Grey White Grey mix Yellow White R&W Pink Blue Pink Red White White Purple pink Green Orange Orange O&N Red White

22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30.

Top Bottom T-Shirt Polo Shirt Bottom Top Top Top Polo Shirt

Tesco M&S Tesco Marks & Spenser Tesco T J Maxx

KG007 1000 4014 3226 CC1068 KG007 3641C KG007 9129

6-9 14 S to 3XL 13-14 8-10 12-18 4-5 12-18 5-6

O.White Navy TBC Navy Black Pink Navy O.White BT Royal

Signature of Supervising Officer

Student Signature

LIST OF MACHINE (GARMENTS) IN INTERSTOFF APPARELS LIMITED Sl no 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. Name of machine Plain machine(Juki) Overlock 4 thread(Yamato) Overlock 4 thread(Yamato), Cylinder Overlock 4 thread(Yamato),Roller Overlock 6 thread(Yamato) Overlock 4 thread(Juki) Overlock 4 thread(Juki) Flatlock m/c(Yamato), Flatbed Flatlock m/c(Yamato), Binding Flatlock m/c(Yamato), Narrow Flatlock m/c(Yamato), Compressor Flatlock m/c(Yamato) Flatlock m/c(Juki), Flatbed Flatlock (Pegasus), Cylinder bed Vertical machine(Juki) Button stitch machine(Juki) Hole stitch machine(Juki) Barteck machine(Juki) Thread recoining machine(Hashima) Snap button (Premium) Diamond attach machine Belco attach machine(Juki) Back tape machine(Kansai) 62 HING Quantity =341 =224

SEWING

=119

CUTTING

=83

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

Fusing machine(Hashima) Spreading machine(Bulmer) Cloth cutting machine(Km) Band knife(Hashima) Number sticker machine Steam iron(Naomato) Metal detector Thread sacking machine Thread sacking machine Vacuame table Heat transfer machine Strapping machine(Toyo) Spot remover machine

=26

=172

GRAND TOTAL=965

Various types of sewing machine:

Fig: Plain m/c

Fig: 2-needle plain m/c

Fig: Flat lock (narrow)

Fig: Flat lock (compressor)

63

Fig: Flat lock (flat bed) auto

Fig: Flat lock (flat bed) manual

Fig: Over lock m/c

Fig: Flat lock (cylinder)

Fig: Flat lock (roller)

Fig: Barteck m/c

Fig: Belco attach m/c

Fig: Eye let attach m/c

64

Fig: Button attaching m/c

Fig: Eye let whole m/c

Fig: Button whole m/c

Machine layout:
Date-07/03/10, 3rd floor Line-1A Table Line-1B Table Line-4A Table

F/L

O/L

P/M

P/M

P/M

O/L

P/M

F/L

O/L

P/M

P/M

O/L

F/L

F/L

P/M

F/L

F/L

P/M

P/L

O/L

O/L

P/M

F/L

O/L

O/L

P/M

O/L

O/L

O/L

P/M

F/L

F/L 65

O/L

O/L

O/L

O/L

P/M

P/M

O/L

F/L

P/M

P/M Table

P/M

F/L Table

P/M

P/M Table

P/M

= P/M= Plain Machine. = F/L= Flat Lock. = O/L= Over Lock.

Some important formula:

Total efficiency: Standard hour produced = Total worked hour

100

Numbers of produce garment SMV = 100 Number of workers working min SMV quantity = 100 Number of workers working min Line efficiency: Total earned min = Total available min

100

Total earned min: Number of produced garment SMV of that garment. Total available min: Number of workers working min. Rating: 66

Predetermined time = Actual time SMV: Observed cycle time rating factor (1 + AF) Normal time (1 + AF) Normal time: Average time rating factor

Machine specification:
Plain machine specification: Brand name: Juki, Brother. Model: DDL8700-7, S-7200B-403. Needle: 1 (DB*1). Origin: China, Japan. Quantity: 341 pieces. R.P.M.: 5000(maximum). Capacity: As per operator efficiency. Pressure foot: 10 m.m. (standard). Max-13 m.m. Max stitch length: 4 m.m. Lubricating oil grade: 7. Weight: 115 kg/253 lbs. Motor type: Servo. Bobbin: 1.

67

Fig: Plain machine Over lock machine specification: Brand name: Yamato. Model: AZ8125G. Needle: 2 (DC). Origin: Japan. Quantity: 224 pieces. R.P.M.: 7500(maximum). Capacity: As per operator efficiency. Pressure foot: 6 m.m. Max stitch length: 1.0-4.0 m.m. Lubricating oil grade: 28. Weight: 26 kg. Motor type: Clutch. Looper: 2, 3.

68

Fig: Over lock machine

Flat lock machine specification: Brand name: Yamato, Juki. Model: VG 2713-HF-7723. Needle: 2, 3, 4 (UY128). Origin: Japan. Quantity: 200 pieces. R.P.M.: 6000(maximum). Capacity: As per operator efficiency. Pressure foot: binding m.m. Max stitch per inch: 13-14. Lubricating oil grade: 28-30. Weight: 42 kg. Motor type: Servo. Looper: 2, 3.

69

Fig: Flat lock machine

Special machine specification (Button stitch) Brand name: Juki. Model: LK-1902 A. Origin: Japan. Quantity: 12. R.P.M.: 3000. Motor type: Servo. Stitch length: 0.1 mm. Pressure foot: 13 mm. Needle: DP 17. Lubricating oil grade: 2. Weight: 42kg + control box 16.5 kg=58.5 kg.

70

Fig: Button stitch machine.

Label joint. Back tape joint. Back tape top stitch. Pocket joint. Placket box. Zipper joint. Body hem tuck. Pocket top stitch. Ribs tuck. Rib folding tuck. Piping. False hem tuck. In seam tuck. Twill tape joint. Placket top stitch. Plackets tuck. V-neck joint. 71

Plain machine activities

Elastic tuck. Noses tuck. Waist tucks. Loop tucks. Shoulder binding. Collar tuck at body. Collar piping. Elastic insert at waist. Tuck at sleeve end. Sateen tapes join. Mock tuck. Mock joint. Neck top stitch. Shoulder top stitch. Arm hole top stitch. Sleeve hem. Body hem. Leg hem. Laid on tape top stitch. Front rise top stitch. Back raise top stitch. Zigzag. Pocket hem. Panel top stitch. Shoulder to Shoulder top binding. Lay on tape joint. False sleeve hem. Cuff top stitch. 72

Flat lock machine activities

Top stitch at waist band. Side seam top stitch. top stitch. Mock piping. Side top stitch. Neck piping. Arm whole piping. Shoulder piping. Back tape joint. Waist band rolling.

Neck joint. Sleeve joint. Contrast joint. Panel joint. Side seam. In seam. Cuff joint. Back rise. Front rise. Elastic rolling. Waist joint. Moon rolling. Neck piping. Shoulder joint. Collar attaching. 73

Overlock machine activities

Mock joint. Waist band attach. Bottom sharing. Bottom joint. Elastic over lock. Mock over lock. Rib hem piping. Body hem piping. Blind stitch. Sleeve piping. Bottom piping. Pocket rolling. Waist band rolling. Stab stitch. Lay on tape joint. Pquiting. Back tape joint. Panel top stitch. Arm hole top stitch. Side tape joint.

Special machine activities

Needle name of various types of machine:

Plain m/c: DB-7, 9, 11. Over lock m/c: DC-7, 9, 11. Flat lock m/c: UY-8, 9, 11. Hole stitch m/c: DP5-11, 9. Button stitch m/c: DP17-14. Kansai m/c: UY113-111. Barteck stitch: DP5. 74 Fig: Needle

Guide name of various types of machine:

Plain machine: o Plain fit guide. o Hanger guide. o Zipper guide. o T.R. guide. o Another guide: , , 3/16, 5/16, 1/16. Flat lock machine: Guides are use depend on a process, There are, 3/8, 5/16, 5/8, 7/8, 3/16, 5/16, 1/16. Also its used nose guide.

Over lock machine: Guide is not used in over lock machine. 3 threads & 2 looper are used in this machine. Also besides using of needle & looper are up down according by comments.

Kansai machine: Guide use: , 1/8, 1/2, 5/8, .

Folders:
Folder has no name but it has variety size: 34cm, 35cm, 36cm, 38cm, 15cm, 16cm, 09cm etc.

75

Fig: Folder (Various types)

Responsibilities of a floor in charge:

Man, machine & accessories input. Line setting. Elimination of worker. Adding operator by analysis shipment date. Maintain line plan. Checking all the line very carefully. Giving information about cutting in finishing section. Adjust the quantity of a garment. To give easier way for sewing of a new style garment. Operators adding by contact with planning section as per requirement. Take interview of a new operator to give his/her right position to work. Quality check. 76

To do anything for getting high output production rate and improve efficiency.

Accessories of sewing section:

Thread-Spun, Bulk. Care label. Over Batch. Over label. Twill tape. Zipper. Snap button. Eye late. Elastic. Sateen tape. Diamond button. Winder wise. Button. Front part Back part

Shoulder joint Over lock machine Label Label joint Plain machine Neck Neck joint Over lock machine

Special type of layout of a top

Neck top stitch Flat lock machine Back tape

77

Back tape joint Flat lock machine

Sleeve joint Over lock machine

Sleeve hem Flat lock machine

= Special m/c. = Input.

Side seam Over lock machine

= Plain m/c. = Storage.

Sleeve tuck Plain machine

Basic layout plan of a top

Sl no 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Process name Shoulder joint Label joint Neck joint Neck top stitch Back tape joint Sleeve joint Sleeve hem Side seam Body hem Sleeve chap tuck Machine use Over lock Plain Over lock Flat lock Flat lock Over lock Flat lock Over lock Flat lock Plain Thread 4 2 4 3 4 4 3 4 3 2 Needle Looper Bobbin

2 2 0 1 0 1 2 2 0 2 1 0 2 2 0 2 2 0 2 1 0 2 2 0 2 1 0 1 0 1 Ref: 16/02/2013, Line 3A, 4th floor

78

Basic layout plan of a bottom

Sl no 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 Process name Front rise joint Back rise joint Label joint Side seam In seam Waist hole Elastic joint Waist band rolling Leg hem Leg & in seam tuck Drawstring joint Barteck joint Machine use Over lock Over lock Plain Over lock Over lock Holing Plain Flat lock Flat lock Plain Plain Barteck Thread 4 4 2 4 4 2 2 3 4 2 2 2 Needle Looper Bobbin

2 2 0 2 2 0 1 0 1 2 2 0 2 2 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 2 1 0 2 2 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 1 0 Ref: 16/02/2013, Line 3B, 4th floor

Responsibilities of a supervisor:
To be informed about the style. Sample collection from cutting section. Collect input from cutting. Man & machine layout. Identification of bottleneck point. Accessories collection from store. Line balancing. To be aware of line upgrade information. Target fills up. Solve all problems during sewing. Hourly production sheet fill up.

79

Log sheet fill up. Motivate the operators. Discipline maintains. Quality maintains. Information of product & sewing quantity. To be informed of shipment information.

Basic layout plan of a T-shirt

Sl no 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 Process name Moon over lock Label top stitch Moon joint Shoulder joint Care label joint Sleeve hem V-tuck V-joint V-neck joint Mock & rib joint Rib stitch Mock over lock Mock tuck Mock joint Machine use Over lock Plain Plain Over lock Plain Flat lock Plain Plain Over lock Over lock Flat lock Over lock Plain Plain Thread 4 2 2 4 2 3 2 2 4 4 3 4 2 2 80 Needle 2 1 1 2 1 2 1 1 2 2 2 2 1 1 Looper 2 0 0 2 0 1 0 0 2 2 1 2 0 0 Bobbin 0 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 1

15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25

Back tape joint Front neck joint Back tape top stitch Sleeve piping joint Sleeve joint Arm hole top stitch Side seam False joint Body hem Side seam Back tape tuck

Plain Flat lock Plain Over lock Over lock Flat lock Over lock Over lock Flat lock Over lock Plain

2 2 2 3 4 2 4 3 3 4 2

1 0 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 2 1 0 2 2 0 1 1 0 2 2 0 2 1 0 2 1 0 2 2 0 1 0 1 Ref: 16/02/2013, Line 5, 4th floor

Defect during sewing:

Broken stitch. Skip/Drop stitch. Side seam open. Down stitch. Point up down. Joint up down. Label mistake. Size mistake. Tuck mistake. Missing tuck. Puckering. 81

Shoulder up down. Sleeve up down. Wrong size label joint. Needle mark. Iron problem. Print spot. Oil spot. Dirty spot. Twisting problem. Uneven placket box. Stitch open. Wrong trims. Faulty trims. Slanted. Fullness. Pleat. Raw edge.

The possible ways of increasing productivity:

To increase machine efficiency. Proper production planning. Proper production engineering. Proper line balancing. Training programme for workers. Application of CAD/CAM. Involving support of technologist. Giving incentive to the workers. Proper inventory management. Better method implementation. 82

Breakdown of operation. Control of work flow. Proper use of man, materials and machine. Using right pupil at right time. Using appropriate machinery. Evaluate the system correctly.

83

Finishing section layout

Packing & Carton Area

Finishing Store

Board room

84

Medi cal Inspect Area Poly Fold

Packing & Carton Area

Poly Fold & Poly Fold

Poly Poly

Iron tab Iron tab Iron tab Iron tab

Iron tab Iron tab Iron tab Iron tab

Iron tab Iron tab Iron tab Iron tab

Iron tab Iron tab Iron tab Iron tab

Fabric receive

Fusing area

Spot lift

Toilet

Finishing flowchart
Fabrics receive Fusing (if required) Fabric set for iron Ironing Quality check Counting Measurement check Get up check 85

Needle check Hanger Price sticker Quality check (label) Pound sticker Folding Poly Transit label Packaging Final check Carton

Object of finishing:
-Improve the dimensional stability of the fabric -Modify the handle of fabric -Improve the appearance of fabric -Improve the durability of the fabric -Modify the serviceability of the fabric

Process description:
Fusing Finishing section received their input from sewing section & gave them to press fusing machine for fusing, if it required. Fusing is an alternative method of joining of fabrics. At first the part of garment which is to be fused spreaded & then, the resinated interlining 86

surface is placed on it & applied required pressure & temperature smoothly. Resin on coating of interlining is melt by heat into the fabric under pressure, when it becomes cool & hard both the fabric & interlining are attached. Ironing All garments are ironing by stem. Ironing temperature is fixed by buyer. This ironing is helped in garments for fixing their shape. Ironing improves the fastness, softness, good handling & good looking of garment. Metal detection All garments are passed into metal detection machine after running & measurement checking. The job of this machine is to identify the any metal parts like broken needle parts, pin etc & give signal for finding this metal & garments are free from accident. Folding Folding area is start from metal detection machine, and then garments are divided into style, size, and color, arranged them to take size sticker. Then garments are in hanger with sizes, sewing ticket, and price sticker. Packing In poly pack area garments are packing in poly pack with fixed measure which is get from buyer, attach with transit label then send to packing.

Machine specification:
Press fusing machine specification: Brand: CHHU. Model: SC63*75. Quantity: 4. Origin: China. Weight: 30-35 kg. Manpower: 04 persons. Time: 10-12 sec. Temp: 180-185. Pressure: Air: (6kg-7kg). Use: Fusing, transfer print etc. 87

Fig: Heat transfer machine.

Press fusing machine instruction:

Read the machine instruction manual before start of the machine/operating. Switch on the electric switch before operation & start work after the heater plate is enough heated. Do not touch the heat transfer machine inside & the heater plate due to high temperature. Maintenance should be done by skilled technician only. Do not allow operation by unskilled operator. Be cautions while operating machine. Do not keep the machine near flammable materials. Uses the appropriate ppe during heat transfer machine operation.

88

Before start of the operation, operators adjust the machine temperature as per the standard. Shut off the machine & lock out the power source when not in use.

Metal detector machine specification: Brand: Met 30+. Model: 27836-1. Quantity: 02. Origin: England. Weight: 280 kg. Manpower: 02 persons. Capacity: 3000 per hour. Motor: Servo.

89

Fig: Metal detector machine.

Attentiveness during metal detector machine:

Press start button after 5 min of power switch on. Machines are check minimum 4 times in a day by sample card. Never stay anythings like broken needle, pin or other metal on the conveyor belt. Watch, ear ring, finger ring etc are not using during machine driving. Dont give garments on conveyor belt at a greater speed; For stopping machine press stop button then turn off power switch.

Manpower of finishing section:

Manager: 01 person. Assistant in charge: 01 person. 90

Senior supervisors: 03 persons. Supervisors: 15 persons. o Spot: 01 person. o Fusing: 02 persons. o Iron: 04 persons. o Folding: 07 persons. o Packing: 03 persons. o Wash: 01 person.

TOTAL=470 PERSONS

Operator: 450 persons.

Sop of metal detection:

Start Remove all jewelry, mobiles, clippers, scissors or any other things With metal component in the area where the garment will be examined. Adjust the sensitivity level of machine. Use 9 point system to test the sensitivity of the machine. Use the standard calibration card during the test. 91

 Use all at normal mode. Place garment gently on the conveyor belt and pass through the tunnel lengthwise. Pack into carton box immediately. Mark record. Procedure is finished (if not alarming) If alarming Remove garment and pass to supervisor Mark down on log book Metal object found and remove.

Iron machine specification: Brand: Macpi. Model: 167701. Quantity: 70. Origin: Bangladesh. Weight: 80 kg. Manpower: 70 persons. Time: 2 min per garment. Types: 2. Voltage: 200 volt. Motor: 400 w. 92

Fig: Iron machine.

Finishing section information:

Tables: Iron table: 70. Quality check table: 90. Fabric receive table: 03. Folding table: 05. Poly table: 03. Packing table: 04. Cartooning table: 03.

Machines: 93

Heat transfer machine. Iron machine. Metal detector machine.

Production per day in finishing section: 30-35 thousand pieces. Types of folding:
Board folding. Hanger folding. Solid folding. Blister folding. Ratio folding.

Type of packing
Solid size packing. Ratio packing. Assort packing.

Types of carton:
Box carton. Plain carton. Master carton. Inner carton.

Types of poly:
Single. Ratio. Assort. 94

Finishing accessories:
Size sticker. OVL stocker. TRL sticker. Box label. Showing ticket. Power sticker. Hanger size. Price ticket. Hand tag. Poly. Carton. Gum tape.

Main activities of finishing section:

Count body at receive point. Thread sucking. Ironing. Quality check. Get up check. Metal checking. Folding size matching. Hanger set. Poly. 95

Metal punch.

Ok Carton

Not ok Solve problem

Quality inspection point during finishing:

Broken stitch. Skip/drop stitch. Side seam open. Down stitch. Point up down. Joint up down. Bottom length up down. Label mistake. Size mistake. 96

Tuck mistake. Without tuck. Puckering. Shoulder up down. Sleeve up down. Wrong size label joint. Without Barteck. Shading. Needle mark. Embroidery problem. Iron problem. Print spot. Oil spot. Dirty spot. Fabric fault. Fabrics reject. Sewing reject.

Quality control flowchart for finishing

After ironing check Measurement check Get up check Metal check 97

 Labeling check Internal audit CNI audit by internal audit team

CNI: Confirm to necessary information

98