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Taking a splash in
AVE you ever noticed the vast difference between the things some people consider dangerous or unsafe especially when it comes to kids? In some countries, its completely okay for a small family to ride on a motorbike without helmets. Its not uncommon to spot a small child protectively squashed between parents. In many Western countries, such as the United States, we dont allow our kids outside without knee pads, elbow pads, helmets. Wed envelop them in padded suits if we could.

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A Myanmar Times Special Report - January 2013

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By Becky Cavender God forbid they should run around as fast as their bodies will carry them in fear theyll fall and scrape their knees. During our familys recent trip to Bagan and Inle Lake, cultural differences in safety perceptions became very clear. In New Bagan, we visited a traditional family-run pon yay gyi (black bean paste) factory called Lucky Owl. Pon yay gyi is made

Life on the lake (above and left). photo Chris James White

from soy beans and is used in pork dishes throughout Myanmar, but prides itself on being from Bagan. In order to make the black bean paste, the soya beans go through a long process of being boiled outdoors in gigantic vats above open fires. Walking around the factory, I nervously instructed my five-year-old daughter to be careful, not to touch this or that, not to step there. Meanwhile, I watched a three-year-old boy roam nimbly between the boiling vats and open fires. The ground was slick with bean paste I nearly slipped and fell but this kid, prancing around in his flip-flops, didnt even flinch. No one flinched. It was completely acceptable for him to be there. I didnt hear anyone instruct him what not to touch or where not to step. He apparently knew his limits. The following day, I visited the Golden Cuckoo laquerware factory and showroom in Myinkaba village. While on a guided tour, I watched a threeyear-old girl sit on a platform with a sharp blade in hand, carefully practicing etching laquerware designs. Her mother works at the four-generation, familyrun business as one of the talented etchers. The young girl was surrounded by other women. She held her knife perfectly, safely, placing her thumb behind it, knowing the right angle so as not to cut herself. In the company of those nearby, she was allowed to experiment and to express her artistic self without anyone fussing that she had a sharp blade in her small hands. During our visit to Inle Lake a beautiful area dotted with small, floating villages it became apparent how peoples lives are dependent on water. Kids, who were likely as young as eight, but perhaps older, row their long boats to school, picking up their neighbourhood friends;

photo Chris James White

families row to the pagoda, to the market, and to the clinic; they bathe in the lake; they fish; and children fly kites from canoes. By the age of five, kids are taught how to row small boats; by the age of 12, boys can row with just one leg while standing on their narrow canoe. Babies snuggle in the arms of parents sitting at the upper edge of the shaky long boat, perfectly balanced. Its normal. And no, the lo-

Rowing to a friends house alone is the equivalent of letting your child outside to play in the cul de sac with the neighbours kids."

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Inle Lake
helps. Multiple eyes watch the kids, teaching them how far they can go before being hurt. The perceived safety gap is stark between Western and non-Western countries, but things arent really that different at home, especially when contrasting rural and city life. Growing up in the countryside, my brothers and I sat in the back of our pick-up truck on top of wobbly bales of hay. We rode horses bareback. My brothers had guns at a very early age: real guns that shot real bullets. Entire summers were spent at my best friends house, unsupervised, swimming in her pool and riding four-wheelers across the fields. I took walks alone in the forest telling no one what I was doing or where I was going. Many of my friends were driving combines by the age of 13 and some were as young as 10. This was our life. Our community didnt think it was crazy, strange, or unsafe. At Inle Lake, my daughter fell into the water. Well, the truth is my wellpadded bum knocked her over the edge of a slim and rickety bamboo dock. Within seconds, complete strangers jumped in the water after her and pulled her up. Women came running out of the shop with clean clothes offering them as presents to us. Everyone responded much more quickly than I did. Each person seemed to immediately know what to do; several of them worked together solving cals dont wear lifejackets (you wont find child-sized lifejackets on the tour boats, either). This is life life on the water. It might be hard to wrap your head around these differences. You might be thinking I would never let my seven-year-old out on a lake, rowing an unsteady canoe all by himself, but this is normal here. Rowing to a friends house alone is the equivalent of letting your child outside to play in the cul de sac with the neighbours kids. And children here are never alone. Extended families share the house. One moment, a mom breastfeeds her child, the next shes gone and a sister, auntie or friend watches the baby. No hand-off. No do you mind please watching or Im going to run upstairs real quick will you please look after ? Its natural. Everyone

Travel 2013

Three minutes with

Dr Aung Myat Kyaw
The Myanmar Marketing Committee (MMC) comprises representatives from private hotels and the tourism sector and serves as the marketing arm of Myanmar Tourism Promotion Board. Its objective is to bring together every locally-owned travel company to promote Myanmar as a destination. Dr Aung Myat Kyaw served as MMCs chairperson for nearly five years. What made you decide to work in the tourism industry? I lived in Italy when I was in elementary school because my father worked at the embassy in Rome. Italy is a tourism country however when I came back to Myanmar and asked Tourist Burma [the only tour company] whether I could work for them, they said no because I wasnt a government employee. I became a dentist but eventually got a job as a representative of an Italian travel agency just doing the meet and greet in Italian. I did a two month training course in 1994, which taught me to appreciate my country, culture and to understand and value the society I live in. It really inspired me. I set up a travel company that same year, although there were very few tourists in Myanmar back then. What is the most satisfying aspect of your job? I could earn money very well as a dentist, but I love to travel and I love this job. Travel is in my blood. What is the one gadget you cannot live without and why? My watch. What was the first country you ever visited outside Myanmar? What were your impressions of it? I arrived in Rome when I was nine-yearsa problem before I could have unless, I lived on the water. Setting aside our own fears and learning to let go (at least a little), allowing our children to push their boundaries, is imperative and empowering. I want old. My first impression was bad - I got car sick! Seriously though, Italy is an impressive country everything is old. Whats your favourite restaurant in Yangon? Min Lan Seafood Restaurant on Baho Road in Sanchaung township. The cuisine is from Rakhine state. What makes Myanmar unique? The people - because they are hospitable and kind. People in Myanmar help tourists in every way they can and this is something that you dont find elsewhere in the world. People are the countrys biggest asset. What was your very first job? I worked as a dental assistant when I was 21. I did it while studying and enjoyed it very much. Describe yourself in three words. Warm, enthusiastic, humorous. What was the last book you read? Its in Italian and called Voi Avete Gli Orologi, Noi Abbiamo il Tempo, meaning You Have Your Watches, We Have the Time, by Federico Rampini. What is your advice for young people who seek a successful career in the tourism sector? You need to be passionate for everything you do, and to be yourself. You must have an enthusiasm to learn and keep learning and to enjoy working with people. help sometimes, too. Becky Cavender is a freelance writer and blogger from the USA living in Myanmar. You can find more of her writing at www.beckyinburma.blogspot.com

Advisor to Myanmar Marketing Committee and owner of Orchestra Travel Ltd

my daughter to stretch herself, to be independent and to explore, while knowing there are consequences for her actions if she goes too far. Its a life lesson: We all have limitations, were not invincible and we all need

Travel 2013
Editors: Myo Lwin, Jessica Mudditt Writers: Douglas Long, Jessica Mudditt, Justin Heifetz, Tim McLaughlin, Bill O'Toole, Becky Cavender, Talbot Leiter, Pinky, Zaw Win Than Cover Photo: Douglas Long

A Myanmar Times Special Report

Photography: Doudlas Long, Pinky, Chris James White, Alexander Crook Boothee Cover & Layout Design: Tin Zaw Htway, Ko Pxyo For enquiries and feedback: myolwin@myanmartimes.com.mm jess.mudditt@gmail.com

Travel 2013

A Myanmar Times Special Report - January 2013

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Treks for the timid in Putao

By Douglas Long he name Putao commonly evokes images of snowy peaks and dreams of epic treks through untrammeled alpine wilderness. It is a legendary landscape that, for the past century, has drawn rugged adventurers from around the globe to northernmost Myanmar people like British botanist Frank Kingdon-Ward, whose weeks-long expeditions into the mountains from the 1930s to 1950s resulted in the documentation of dozens of orchids and other plant species previously unknown to science. Other intrepid visitors have included American biologist Alan Rabinowitz, whose book Beyond the Last Village (2001) tells of his encounter with the dwindling population of the Tarong pygmy tribe; and the unfortunate American snake specialist Joe Slowinski, killed on September 11, 2001, by the bite of a many-banded krait while exploring the mountain valleys north of Putao. In 1996, Japanese mountaineer Takashi Ozaki and U Nama Johnson from Myanmar became the first climbers to reach the summit of remote Mount Hkakaborazi, which at 5847 metres (19,295 feet) is the highest peak not only in Myanmar but also in Southeast Asia. Of course not everyone has the gumption, or the desire, to embark on such daring quests, but this does not mean that northern Myanmar should be avoided altogether by casual travellers. Putao itself is located on a vast plain about 80 kilometres (50 miles) south of where the high mountains begin, and the flatlands offer plenty of great options for more modest adventures in the form of undemanding treks through villages that are home to ethnic Kachin, Lisu, Rawang and Khamti Shan. One such trip last February took me from the Khamti Shan village of Kaung Mu Lon to the town of Machanbaw over the course of two days, a total distance of about 28 kilometres (17 miles). Our trek was arranged by Malikha Lodge near Putao, and besides myself (an American), our multi-ethnic group consisted of two Bamar friends

The guesthouse owners in Nam Khan 2 village, wearing traditional Rawang dress. photo Douglas Long

from Yangon, a Bamar chef, two local porters (one Rawang and one Khamti Shan), and Thomas, our Kayin guide. With snow-capped, 3640-metre (12,000-foot) Himalayan peaks visible 80 kilometres to the north, the highest point we achieved during our two-day trek was 494 metres (1630 feet) above sea level, which we reached at the very beginning via a short, steep scramble to the top of forested Noi Zaw Hill. From the small pagoda at the top,

we enjoyed a commanding view of the crystal-clear Malikha River (which flows south to meet the Namkhan River near Myitkyina, both joining forces to form the Ayeyarwaddy River), as well as beautiful Kaung Mu Lon. The towns main pagoda, at the foot of the hill, is said to be 2000 years old at its core, but in the year 2000 a new pagoda was built overtop so the ancient structure is no longer visible. We started walking from Kaung Mu Lon shortly before noon, crossing a

small stream and entering the Rawang village of Taram Dam 1. With a population of 200, the village did not take long to pass through, but a few steps later we were in another village, known as Taram Dam 2. This was the pattern for the first day, which seemed like a walk through a never-ending settlement of wooden houses, bamboo fences, stone walls, gardens and agricultural land: One village merged into the next, sometimes separated by streams or rivers, but at other times the

boundary was so subtle that we had to rely on Thomas to tell us when we had crossed the invisible line between towns. Thats not to say that the villages were all the same. For starters, the Kachin, Lisu and Rawang, who make up about 70 percent of the population of the Putao valley, are mostly Christians, and their villages are unusual in Myanmar for their lack of pagodas and monasteries. Christianity was established in far northern Myanmar in

the 1950s by American missionary Robert Morse (who also translated the Bible into the Rawang language), and Baptist and Catholic churches abound in the region. Meanwhile, the Khamti Shan, the valleys original settlers, tend toward Buddhism. In addition to being home to pagodas and monasteries, Khamti Shan villages are like huge gardens due to the ethnic groups status as the main vegetable growers in the region. It is typical for each house, built on raised floors with thatched roofs, to be surrounded by a lush array of edible plants, including celery, cabbage, potatoes, and white and yellow mustard. As elsewhere in Myanmar, mustard is used in the Putao area not only as a food ingredient but also for making plant oil, which is thought to have medicinal value: It is spread on the belly to relieve stomach pain, for daily use as well as for women who have recently given birth. Uniquely for the Putao region, mustard oil is also used for cooking in the same way that palm, peanut, sunflower and other edible plant oils are used elsewhere. It is said among locals that Buddhist taboos against harming animals have also helped turn the Khamti Shan villages into refuges for wild birds, which seem to understand that in Buddhist villages they are less likely to be shot out of the sky with a traditional slingshot or crossbow than in non-Buddhist villages. Indeed, Khamti Shan settlements seem to be alive with birdsong from dawn to dusk, but the animals might simply be eating the garden produce rather than hiding from hunters. One advantage of our walk through the neverending village sprawl on day one of our trek was getting the chance to meet the locals. In Kaung Mu Lon we were invited into a house to share tea with a Khamti Shan woman and her daughter. Later in the day we met a group of Rawang four adults and three children who were on the last leg of a 10-day journey starting from their village near the Chinese border. They had walked 185 kilometres (114 miles), carrying their infants and personal belongings across high mountains and through dense jungle, to visit their parents. We also met the pastor of a church in Kan Jo Lisu village, and a few minutes later a Buddhist man who

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was repairing his bamboo fence gave us California oranges from the tree in his front yard. (Reverend Morse is also credited with introducing citrus fruit to the Putao valley, after he noticed that the residents were suffering from vitamin C deficiencies.) We also stopped to talk to men who were panning for gold in the river near Nam Khan 2, which was our stopping point for the day. We spent the night in a small lodge owned by a Rawang family. Our reward for a day of walking was a candlelight dinner (out of necessity, not for romance) featuring vegetable tempura, bean soup, brown rice, sweet and sour pork, Rawang chicken, long-bean salad, seaweed salad, and cake for dessert, all washed down with Myanmar-made Red Mountain Estate wine. Afterward we sat with our hosts around an indoor fireplace talking about nature, animals and, inevitably, ghosts. The lodge did in fact have a bit of a haunted house feel, its dark and creaky wooden interior illuminated by flickering candles and eerie light from the nearly full moon. Indeed, in the early morning hours I was jarred from my sleep by the sort of horrendous cacophony that

Women in Kaung Mu Lon wearing traditional Khamti Shan dress. photo Douglas Long

We ate a breakfast of noodles, fried beef, toast and coffee, thanked our friendly hosts, and started walking through the fog at 8:30am. The village had come alive since my morning excursion. We talked to a woman

and through meadows. We barely saw anyone else as we walked through the mist. The sun finally broke through around 10am and the temperature immediately rose, but as with the day before, it never became

Locals claim that if you visit at night, you can sometimes see the dragon quivering in its stony slumber.
one would think could only originate from a host of demons issuing forth from the darkest pits of hell. It took me a few frantic seconds to realise that the din was nothing more than the rather enthusiastic snoring of one of my Bamar travel companions in the adjacent room. The temperature that night dropped to 3 degrees Celsius, but we had enough blankets to keep us warm in our beds. In the morning the village was shrouded in thick, wet mist rolling off the nearby river. I took a solo walk around the town while everyone was still sleeping. The only sound was the dripping of water from trees and rooftops, and the only creatures stirring were a few cows loitering on the dirt road that ran past our lodge. The tranquility was shattered when ear-splitting Myanmar rock music erupted from a stereo in one of the village households, a 6:45am alarm that I imagine few neighbours could have slept through. who was pounding rice flour using a foot-driven mallet, then photographed two young men on motorcycles carrying a big fish they had pulled from the river. We followed a stonepaved road out of the village, and the trek quickly took on a different character from the previous day. Whereas on day one we had seen one village blend into the next, now there were wide open rice fields where horses roamed free, forestland where birds sang in the trees, and clear streams trickling over rocks too hot for comfort. We passed through the Kachin village of Inwayn Baw, from which we had a view of Ma Ket Mong village across the Malikha River. Our path followed the bank above the river, and looking down we could see groups of men searching for gold using concave wooden trays to sift through the silt. We entered another forest, then passed through the Kachin village of In Bu Baw, and then found ourselves surrounded by trees yet again. Not long after noon we reached the big town of Machanbaw, home to Raw-

ang, Kachin and Khamti Shan, as well as to Myanmar civil servants from around the country. The town was also the site of northernmost Myanmars original British colonial administration starting in 1913, before Fort Hertz was established in Putao in 1925. The far north was considered a punishment station by the British, a place to send officers who had been banished from Yangon for disciplinary reasons. Remnants of the colonial era are still visible around Machanbaw. Many of the old officers houses still stand in the middle of town, as does the moldering British Club. This sprawling building is now abandoned, and daylight streams through broken windows and cracked walls. The place is mostly empty, with the odd exception of

an old billiards table that still stands in one room. In better condition is the twostorey British Commission House, which is now the Guba Guesthouse. Set on a wide lawn on the outskirts of town and overlooking the Malikha River, it has the feel of a well-tended rustic cabin. It is also said to be haunted by the spirit of a long-haired woman. We ended our small adventure by climbing the second hill of the entire trek, this one not as high as Noi Zaw at the beginning but leading to a legendary site just outside of Machanbaw: a rock outcropping that looks like a petrified dragon. According to local lore, the dragon was once real, prowling the area and feeding on people until one day it crossed the line by eating a pregnant woman. For this transgression the gods punished the creature

by turning it to stone. Theres a shrine near the head of the dragon with a small golden pagoda, and evidence of offerings for good fortune can be seen on the outcropping: candle wax on the dragons head, and broken egg shells and dried yolk around the dragons eye. Students also chip off bits of the rock, or dragon scales, before exams for good luck. Locals claim that if you visit at night, you can sometimes see the dragon quivering in its stony slumber. We hadnt brought any eggs or candles to make our own sacrifices, and I wasnt too keen on furthering the destruction of a landmark, natural or otherwise, by chipping off pieces of the rock. We took photographs and, letting sleeping dragons lie, walked back down the hill to the end of our trek.

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A record breaking year in review

Top 10 Tourist Arrival Markets in 2012 (Yangon Gateway) Market Arrivals Market share (pc) By Zaw Win Than 012 was a record-breaking year for tourism in Myanmar according to the Ministry of Hotels and Tourism, the nation attracted more than a million visitors. This has largely been attributed to political reforms over the past twelve months, with the stage appearing to be set for rapid and continuous growth in the industry. Yangon received the overwhelming majority of international air arrivals. Other significant gateways included Mandalay, Bagan and Nay Pyi Taw, which received a combined total of 33,771 tourists. Overland entry is permitted to tourists from Thailand, China and India with prearranged border passes the number of arrivals in this category amounted to 465,614. With the ongoing repeal of international sanctions and travel boycotts in recognition of political reforms, Myanmar is now an increasingly appealing destination not only for travel, but also for investment, particularly in tourism. Tourist arrival numbers are expected to rise some-

Myanmar tourism in 2012:

Thailand Japan China America S Korea Malaysia France Singapore United Kingdom Germany
Source: Ministry of Hotels and Tourism

91,817 47,501 41,542 36,476 34,694 30,444 29,684 26,253 23,291 21,856

16.55 8.56 7.49 6.57 6.25 5.49 5.35 4.73 4.20 3.94

Top 10 Tourist Arrival Markets in 2011 (Yangon Gateway) Country Arrival Market Share (pc)

photo Kasper Stensgaard

where in the region of 30 percent in 2013, following a similar increase in 2012, industry sources said. While Asian countries are likely to continue to supply the majority of visitors, the countrys improving international image is expected to result in a steady increase of travellers from Western nations. Dr Aung Myat Kyaw, the managing director of Orchestra Travel and advisor to the Myanmar Marketing Committee, said growth will definitely continue in the coming tourist season. There has been an increase in numbers overall, but there has been bigger

growth in the numbers of Asian and American tourists in comparison to Europeans. Few American tourists came in the past due to the embargos, he said. If reforms continue and there is political stability, the country will definitely continue to grow. The challenge will be to improve infrastructure. People will then come flocking, he added. Visitor Arrival Statistics Myanmar received 554, 531 foreign visitors to Yangon alone in 2012, representing a 54pc increase on 2011 figures, according to data from the Ministry of Hotels and Tourism. Asian nationals accounted for 347,241arrivals, representing more than 62pc of the total number of tourists. Thailand provided the largest share with 91,817 arrivals, followed by Japan (47,501) China (41,542) and America (36,479). European nationals, meanwhile, accounted for 135,692 visitors, representing 24.5pc of total arrivals. France led the European cohort with 29,684 visitors, followed by United Kingdom (23,291) and Germany (21,856). Hotel Development According to the Ministry of Hotels and Tourism, Myanmar has 787 licensed hotels and approximately 28,000 rooms. Earlier this year, the ministry announced plans to increase the number of hotel zones in Myanmar, and thus far 11 have been created in the most popular tourist regions, while several addi-

tional zones will be established in the near future. The Myanmar Investment Commission (MIC) has put historic state-owned buildings in central Yangon up for tender in an effort to ease the citys shortage of hotel rooms. MIC has invited both local and foreign companies to place bids on the properties for conversion into

Thailand China Malaysia S Korea Japan America France Singapore Taiwan Germany

61,331 35,181 23,286 22,507 21,264 20,487 19,288 15,386 15,362 13,245

17.07 9.79 6.48 6.26 5.92 5.70 5.37 4.28 4.27 3.69
Aviation Development The tremendous growth in the aviation sector during 2012 is expected to continue into 2013, as international and domestic carriers continue to expand operations in Myanmar to cater to growing business and leisure arrivals. However Myanmar remains one of the least-serviced destinations in Asia. Fortunately, international carriers are finally taking notice. After Daw Aung San Suu Kyi won the landmark by-election in April last year, eight international carries have launched direct flights to Myanmar. 2013 should also see rapid growth in the domestic flights market, as the six existing full service domestic carriers are keen to capitalise on the growing demand. Myanmars first ever

Source: Ministry of Hotels and Tourism

International airlines to and from Yangon No International Carriers 2012

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22

8m TG FD PG AK SQ KE MU MI 3K MH VN CI CA QR KA BR OZ CZ AI DE NH

Myanmar Airway International Thai Airways Thai AirAsia Bangkok Airways AirAsia Malaysia Singapore Airlines Korea Air China Eastern Airlines Silk Air Jetstar Asia Malaysia Airlines Vietnam Airlines China Airlines Air China Qatar Airways Dragonair EVA Air Asiana China Southern Airlines Air India Condor All Nippon Airways

The challenge will be to improve infrastructure. People will then come flocking,
hotels on a long-term lease basis. However, further reforms are needed to turn expressions of interest into actual investment. Mr Frank Janmaat, general manager and country director of KMA hotel group, said the uncertainty over the unfinished foreign direct investment (FDI) law is a sticking point for potential investors. Not allowing 100pc FDI will probably slow down the

development of the country. We also need to know how much capital is available within Myanmar. Not allowing 100pc FDI will limit growth if funds are insufficient, he said. Five hotels at the popular Ngwe Saung beach closed in 2006 due to a scarcity of tourists, however all are preparing to reopen this year. Other hotels in the area are also expanding their capacity and undertaking renovations as part of a collective bid to provide sufficient accommodation options during the 2013 South East Asia Games, which will be held in Yangon this December. The Ministry of Hotels and Tourism expects the area to have 840 rooms available once the upgrades are completed. Foreign Investment in Tourism No Country

Number of Hotels and Apartments

Investment US$

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Singapore Thailand Japan Hong Kong Malaysia United Kingdom Vietnam Total

12 10 6 4 2 1 1 36

597 million 235 million 183 million 77 million 20 million 3.4 million 3 million 1.4 billion

Source: Ministry of Hotels and Tourism

Source: Ministry of Hotels and Tourism

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Travel 2013

photo Chris James White

Tourist arrivals by age

Tourism Revenue

Aged between 1-20 Aged between 21-50 Aged 51+

Source: Ministry of Hotels and Tourism

4pc 56pc 40pc

Year Total Revenue Average expenditure per person per day Average length of stay
Source: Ministry of Hotels and Tourism

2011 US$319 million US$120 8 days

rently only available to citizens from 26 nations. These include the ten ASEAN member states of Brunei, Cambodia, Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, the Philippines, Singapore, Thailand, Viet Nam, and Australia, as well as China, (including residents of Macao and Hong Kong), Denmark, France, Germany, India, Italy, Japan, South Korea, North Korea,

2012 US$534 million US$135 7 days

New Zealand, Norway, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Taiwan, the UK and the USA. According to the Ministry of Immigration, the government plans to expand VOA eligibility to an additional 22 European nations. However all visitors, regardless of nationality, who arrive from Phnom Penh, Siem Reap or Guangzhou on Myanmar Airways Interna-

low-cost carrier, Golden Myanmar Airlines, entered the market on January 11. Following its launch with two A320s, the budget airline is planning to add a new aircraft to its fleet every six months. Operating out of Mandalay, Golden Myanmar Airlines also plans to expand their flight network to Bangkok, Singapore, Malaysia and Hong Kong. According to the Centre for Aviation (CAPA), Myanmars international aviation market currently consists of about 81,000 weekly seats, with more than 75,000 passengers entering Yangon International Airport and approximately 5,500 arriving at Mandalay International Tourist arrivals by gender

Male Female
Star Rated Hotels

62pc 38pc

Source: Ministry of Hotels and Tourism

Five Star Four Star Three Star Two Star One Star Certified Hotel Total
Source: Ministry of Hotels and Tourism

5 18 83 115 103 463 787

Airport. This is extraordinary growth: as recently as April 2012, the total number of weekly seats was 49,000 in Yangon and 2000 for Mandalay. In October last year, Thai AirAsia introduced four weekly services to Mandalay from Bangkok and on January 11, the service was upgraded to daily flights. Bangkok Airways has unveiled plans to operate four weekly flights from September, while Thai Airways is also considering servicing the Mandalay route via its regional unit, Thai Smile. Myanmar carriers are also expanding their operations. In November last year, Myanmar Airways International launched thrice weekly flights to Gaya in India. In anticipation of further growth, Myanmar's Department of Civil Aviation (DCA) will redevelop Yangon International Airport, thereby doubling its handling capacity from 2.7 to 5.5 million passengers a year. A feasibility study conducted by the DCA found that the number of passengers passing through the airport was likely to grow by

20-23pc each year for the next four years, eventually reaching 5.5 million. In June 2012, the Department of Civil Aviation (DCA) called for expressions of interest from local and foreign investors to restart the Hanthawaddy International Airport project, which was suspended in October 2003. The DCA hopes to restart construction in June 2013 and is scheduled to be completed by December 2016. The airport will be capable of accommodating 10 million passengers a year well above Yangon International Airports current and projected future capacity. In December 2011, the DCA also pre-qualified seven consortiums for a contract to operate and further develop Mandalay International Airport. A final contract is expected to be awarded in April this year. Visa Requirements Visa restrictions have been eased, allowing most business travellers, conference and workshop attendees, as well as transit visitors to obtain a visa on arrival (VOA) at Yangon and Mandalay International Airports. However the VOA is cur-

tional can obtain a visa on arrival at Yangon airport. Visa fees vary by type. A 70-day business visa costs US$50, while a 28-day entry visa for meetings, workshops and events are US$40. A 24-hour transit visa costs US$20. More information on the VOA, as well as the application form, can be obtained from the immigration department, or any airline that flies to Myanmar. Alternatively, visit the ministrys website (www.mip.gov.mm/ visaonarrival).

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Mae Sot: a simmering tourist destination?

By Jessica Mudditt HEN a friend in Australia emailed me to say she was considering teaching on the Thai-Myanmar border in Mae Sot, I fired back an email imploring her not to. You could end up nursing a bullet wound, I wrote with more than a touch of hysteria. My views had been based entirely on the book Restless Souls by Phil Thornton, albeit published in 2006. Id found his account so harrowing and potentially incendiary that Id given the book away to a fellow traveller in a Bangkok guesthouse the morning I flew to Myanmar (another over-reaction). My second-hand copy of Thailand Lonely Planet (published 2007) sounded less bleak, describing Mae Sot as a slow but simmering tourist destination. However as many would agree, the travel guide leans towards the alarmist and contained the following warning: Border skirmishes between Myanmars central government and the weakening Karen and Kayah ethnic insurgencies can break out at any time, sending thousands of refugees and the occasional mortar rocket across the Thai-Myanmar border at any time, elements that add to the areas perceived instability. However a travel writer who visited Mae Sot in April 2007 told The Myanmar Times that the area was calm when he visited and that while there, he met with a member of the National League for Democracy, who didnt warn him about anything. We rode our bicycles from Mae Sot to the border crossing, he said. The only bad thing I heard was that the town attracted crusader type people. Ex-military Westerners apparently went to Mae Sot with the idea that they would cross the border and give weapons to the Karen people. However the travel writer said that the Thai police had no tolerance for such schemes and rounded up the people involved whenever they got wind of their

Wat PhraThat Doi Din Kiu (Ji) is 11 kilometres northwest of Mae Sot. photo jessica mudditt

plans. On the goodreads website, Kelly Davio dismisses Restless Souls outright. She calls it, A sensationalised tale of Mae Sot. Anyone who has ever lived or worked there will get quite a kick out of his harrowing description. Alas, my friend had decided to head to India instead; and as the bus wound its way around the thickly forested mountains I began to feel pangs of guilt. As we approached the bus station, the first signs I noticed were advertising resorts and a Tesco Lotus supermarket. Up until the very recent past, Mae Sot attracted tourists primarily because it provided a tantalising glimpse into Burma (to quote a travel article in The New Zealand Herald from 2011). However with nearly every sanction lifted and Myanmar turning into one of the worlds most it destinations, people now simply come here to experience the real thing. Chris, the owner of a Canadian restaurant called Krua, told The Myanmar Times that business is slow and the presence of NGO workers is seasonal. Moreover, while Mae Sot used to be a convenient visa run destination, a Thai visa on return from Myanmar is only valid for 15 days. I couldnt help feeling a little sad to see Mae Sots empty streets, particularly after climbing 400 steps to a forest temple with an

incredible view of Myanmar and the Moei River, which divides Thailand from Myanmar. Wat Phra That Doi Din Kiu (Ji) is reminiscent of Kyaiktiyo Pagoda, with a golden boulder balancing inexplicably on the edge of a cliff. The notable difference was that I had the view to myself. The hiking in surrounding areas is reportedly excellent and the wider province of Tak boasts Thailands largest waterfall. The opportunity to return to Myanmar for a few hours was surreal visas are issued in the blink of an eye but expire daily at 5pm. A guide showed me around Myawaddy in a huge air-

conditioned van, stopping at sights that included a gigantic kitsch crocodile statue at a monastery overlooking a rodeo-type venue. Although Myanmars mobile network coverage extends across parts of the border (including the forest temple), the two towns have very little in common. Mae Sot has huge Ford showrooms and high-tech tractors for sale, whereas three-wheel diesel carts chug along Myawaddys dusty streets. Similarly, Mae Sot has boutique clothing stores and 7-Elevens selling wholegrain sandwiches late into the night, while Myawaddys main market was already closed by 4pm. My guide said that his only

A young boy in Myawaddy. photo jessica mudditt

customers are Thai tourists for reasons unknown to him, Westerners rarely cross the Thai-Myanmar Friendship Bridge these days. However the queue for locals at immigration was long in both directions and comprised mostly traders and people seeking health care at Mae Tao Clinic in Mae Sot. Whilst some security appraisals appear overblown, Eh Thwa, a volunteer coordinator at Mae Tao Clinic (which is closed to tourists), said that 300-400 patients from Myanmar visit the clinic every day, either for emergency care or after exhausting their funds in Myanmar, where healthcare is comparatively more costly. Injuries caused by gunshot wounds and landmines are also common. Nobody clears the landmines, Eh Thwa said. According to the Landmine Monitor Report 2012, there have been 3,242 landmine casualties in Myanmar since 1999. Eh Thwa said that the clinic works closely with Mae Sot Hospital for referrals, particularly after Medicines Sans Frontiers pulled out of Thailand in 2011 because it is no longer classified as a developing country. However there is no communication with Myawaddy. Even sharing data is difficult, she said. Eh Thwa said, Many journalists ask why we dont go back [to Myanmar] the reason is because there are many migrant workers in

the area, with workplace injuries on both sides of the border being all too common. My guide in Mywaddy said that some women choose to give birth in Thailand, so that their child can work and study there (provided they arrive two weeks before giving birth). When I returned from Myawaddy to the motorcycle taxi stand out the front of a 7-Eleven, the taxi driver that had dropped me off at the bridge asked whether I was interested in watching a boxing match. You like Myanmar, he said, So would you like to watch Myanmar boxing? I said I would and agreed to meet him at 9pm. I strolled along a main road to Aiya restaurant, which is something of an institution in Mae Sot. The Italian NGO workers Id dined with the night before ate with enthusiasm, though I was quietly less impressed. While I couldnt put my finger on what was missing, the tea leaf and tomato salads lacked the kick I was used to and the mains seemed closer to Thai than Myanmar cuisine, despite being described as the latter. A poster decorated with colourful handprints decried One world, one government, while the lacklustre band played covers of Bob Marley and Bob Dylan. When I told one of the NGO workers that I worked for The Myanmar Times, she sniffed and said, Isnt that a state-run newspaper? During my second visit to Aiya, I decided there wouldnt be a third. A waiter approached me and mumbled something about not wanting me to waste time though before I could order hed disappeared again. I gulped down my meal and left before finishing my beer, thinking Solo diners of the world unite. The boxing matches lifted my mood, although seeing 12-year-old boys bruised and bleeding was something of a shock even if they were treated like heroes afterwards. At least 100 people surrounded the outdoor ring, including mothers and fathers carrying tired toddlers. The Myanmar 20-somethings I stood next to told me that the winner of each match won 500 baht (US$16.50). I couldnt work out the rules, or indeed if there were any, but simply understood that it was one of the most important nights of the week.

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Discovering Mandalays hidden charms

By Bill OToole or a city that is so often skipped by discerning travellers eager to see the ruins of Bagan or the floating cities of Inle Lake, Mandalay offers a wealth of tourist attractions that range from the historical, to the natural, to the cultural. While the view from Mandalay Hill and the comedy shows of the Moustache Brothers are the best known, there are many other less popular sights which lend a unique, exotic perspective to the former capital city. Follow 19th street east out of downtown to reach Yankin Hill, a more serene, secluded alternative to Mandalay Hill. Starting from the main entrance, visitors can doff their shoes and hike to the summit. On either side of the covered stairway the monks and various caretakers have allowed the surrounding flora to grow, creating a tranquil, untouched atmosphere. Regardless of the time of day, walking along the main path to the top feels like being inside a cool, green tunnel.

Yankin Hill. photo Bill O'Toole

That being said, walking the stairs is a workout, as they become increasingly steep as you near the summit. Whereas the journey up Mandalay Hill ends with a single pagoda, the peak of Yankin Hill is a complex stretching for many yards over the mercifully flat hilltop. A walk from one end to the

other will take you past golden shrines nestled in large whitestone shrines, stupas painted yellow and green, and a massive Buddha image overlooking the hills of Shan state. If you find yourself burnt out on temples, you can visit the main pagoda and feed deer. Housed in the yard of the main pagoda,

mostly fenced in but occasionally allowed to roam free, live a family of two bucks, one doe, and a baby calf. Feeding the dear costs a mere K200. Yaedagon Taung, or Waterfall Hill, is a must see for the more adventurous traveller its preferable to have access to a motorbike. Found in the eastern hills,

getting there is simple; follow 33rd Street east until the road ends in a T-junction outside of town. Follow the road sign directing you to the right, and then take the first left off the main road. Follow a gravel road for about ten minutes, which passes through a small village and the Yaedagon Taung golf course. At the base of a hill is a monastery which is home to many dozens of monkeys. Its fine for a look and some quick pictures, but the monkeys are more pesky than charming, so its best to keep going. Follow the paved road up the slope to your left and you will soon arrive at the canyon that is Waterfall Hill. The name is a slight misnomer during the dry season, when the streams and small waterfalls have run dry, but seeing the result of thousand years of erosion is a spectacular sight regardless. Skyscraper-sized cliffs surround either side, making the view from any part of the canyon floor awesome, in the classical sense. Several small cafes dot the road, which is a great way to relax and enjoy the scenery after the bumpy ride up. Those looking for even more adventure can climb some of the many stone staircases built into the cliff walls and experience what this writer considers the best view in Mandalay.

Taunggyis fire balloon festival

By Tim McLaughlin ESPITE being the capital city of one of Myanmars most traveled states; Taunggyi doesnt find itself on most peoples itinerary. The largest city in Shan state is often passed over for a quick stint in Nyaung Shwe, as travellers make their way between Inle Lake and the ruins of Bagan. The cool, hilltop city is perched above Inle Lake and serves as a main thoroughfare for products being traded from China and Thailand. The streets are stacked with wholesale goods that will eventually find their way to markets in Mandalay, Yangon and other towns across Myanmar. In the city centre, Pa-oh women hawk tomatoes from the nearby lakes floating gardens in the Old Market that lacks the chaos of those in Yangon. A walk through the eerily dilapidated central building of the market and up the stalled escalators there are a host of small food stalls selling authentic Shan Khauk Swe (Shan noodles). Once a year, the Tazaungmon festival marks the end of rainy season and turns the city into a raucous pyromaniacs playground.

photo by Sherry Lin

The balloons often struggle to take flight, tentatively stalling while onlookers hold their collective breath before slowly rising above the crowd towing intricate chandeliers of candles with them. Though beautiful, the candle carrying balloons serve as an undercard for the more dangerous displays that take place later in the night. Smaller balloons with large fireworks displays attached are sent airborne - but if they dont rise quickly enough, the pyrotechnics rocket back towards to crowds sending people scattering. Videos of balloons engulfed in flames exploding amongst onlookers have become wildly popular on YouTube. For those hoping to watch the festivities from a safer distance, there is a VIP room available, which is encased by protective glass. Due to the number of visitors during the festival, its best to book ahead and expect to pay higher prices for hotel rooms Taunggyi has a somewhat limited selection. The party begins at the entrance to the main field, where the balloons are launched. Stalls selling clothing, thanaka and crafts line the walkway. Local companies hand out free samples of whiskey and instant coffee. Makeshift bars and clubs are erected along the path for the three day event. The walkway spills into a massive field where festival goers gather on blankets to watch teams sponsored by local organisations send their flaming creations into the night sky. As the balloons fill with hot air, created by a large wick, participants scramble to hang candles on the sides using small hooks. When fully inflated, the balloons showcase images of Lord Buddha and Bogoyoke Aung San. Accommodation: Kalaw- Golden Lily Guesthouse 5/88 Natsin Road Phone- 081-50108, 081-50820 Tuanggyi- Sweet Dream Hotel No. 128, Traders St. Phone- 958123416 Tour guides: Harri- aung.harri@gmail.com Rambo- rumbo.singh1@gmail.com

The fire balloon festival, as it is known amongst tourists, is aptly named. Tens of thousands of revellers descend on Tuanggyi in the days before the full moon of the eight month of the Burmese lunar calendar to watch handmade paper balloons laden with elaborate candle designs and fireworks take to the skies.

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MAGNIFICENT MYANMAR
Myeik archipelago. photo Douglas Long

Bagan. photo the myanmar times

Chin woman, Kanpetlet Chin State. photo Douglas Long

Kyaikhtiyo pagoda. photo the myanmar times

Ayeyarwaddy River,Sagaing Region. photo Douglas Long

Katha, Kachin state. photo Douglas Long

Mahamuni Pagoda, Mandalay. photo Thandar Khine

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In Cambodia, starlight seas await

By Justin Heifetz HE two icons of todays Cambodia are undoubtedly Pol Pot and Angkor Wat: pulling droves of travelers through Phnom Penhs killing fields and Siem Reaps temple complexes every year. While there is little to do in the capital and templetown other than site-see, newcomers to the Kingdom often forget to consider areas less touted by history and guidebooks alike. Cambodias coastline boasts some of the regions best beaches and is only a five-hour private taxi ride from Phnom Penh. In Sihanoukville Cambodias third-largest city travellers will find bungalows overlooking the Gulf of Thailand, access to private islands and proximity to old colonial vacation spots Kep and Kampot. Having lived in Cambodia for over a year, taking a long weekend down shore became a regular ritual of my friends and mine to escape the stress and exhaustion of Phnom Penh. Wed jet from the office straight into the car, and head down to Otres Beach in Sihanoukville on a Thursday night. One of the myriad transportation companies that dot Riverside in Phnom Penh can arrange a taxi for you it should cost around US$50 one-way. Sihanoukvilles character is polarised by its beaches. While Otres Beach is for deep relaxation and taking in the natural scenery of an undeveloped oasis, Occheateul Beach is a firecracker-lit party boardwalk. Depending on how you prefer to blow off steam, both beaches are in walking distance of one another and make for a fantastic Thursday night as the sun sets over the Kingdoms shore. For those looking for privacy, take the next mornings ferry to Koh Rong or Koh Rong Samloem: beach islands yet to be developed by the Cambodian government. While electricity is cut off at 10:00pm, its hard to come by such unspoiled white-sand beaches and clear sea amid rapid regional development. Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem can only be described in clichs. For travellers with a heftier budget and more time, it might be worth looking into a pampered weekend at Song Saa Private Island. And for others who opted for the beach parties and

A girl lights a sparkler on Cambodia's Occheateul Beach across from the illuminated boardwalk of bars and barbecues. photo alexander crook

are in need of some hair of the dog, spend a relaxing early afternoon at one of Sihanoukvilles many French eateries. My personal favourite is tucked away right where the main road and the boardwalk to Occheateul meet. On Friday afternoon, take a taxi to Kep by the sea. Its a two-hour ride from Sihanoukville and should cost you about $30. The best places to stay are on Keps Pepper Street named

hands. The crabs are served with fresh green Kampot pepper corns, sometimes ground and mixed in a light cream sauce, a Cambodian specialty that makes the cuisine truly unique to the region. You can top up your table with giant prawn, lobster, and white fish while washing it down with tall bottles of Angkor Beer. The price is hard to beat anywhere in Asia for such culinary perfection. After some drinks at your

Occheateul Beach is a firecracker-lit party boardwalk

after the provinces famous pepper including Kep Lodge and the Tree Top Bungalows, which both offer a range of eco-friendly accommodations ranging from $12 for a basic room to $125 for a family suite. Guests staying at the Tree Top Bungalows can use Kep Lodges pool and lounge facilities. For dinner, take a stroll through Keps refreshingly cool dirt roads to the crab market: Open-air restaurants line the ocean with remarkable soft-shell crabs you can open with your lodge or a dip in the pool, the best part of Kep is the night-time phosphorence. The oceans marine plankton illuminates around your body movement in a spectacle of neon light. Head down to the Sailing Club on Pepper Road around midnight, where its sure to be abandoned by other patrons a guard will watch your belongings under a lit area on the beach and theres no reason to worry about safety. Jump in the ocean and see for yourself. From the ocean, youll also have a

view of Vietnams Phu Quoc Island on the horizon. Striations of deep purple fall behind the islands lights while youre wrapped between beams of bright blues, golds and greens. On Sunday morning, you can arrange for a tuk-tuk to Kampot and save on some money: It should cost you around $10. The ride should take just about over an hour and its a fun way to experience a bearable amount of the Kingdoms rural infrastructure, marked by verdant rice patties and white water buffaloes. Kampot is a sleepy town by a well-known river. If you get in around lunch time, make sure to stop at the Rusty Keyhole Restaurant by Kampots bus station. The restaurant has the best ribs in Cambodia and is a landmark eatery for Western expats enjoying their long weekends outside of the city. Once youve filled up on meat and mash, take a dollar tuk-tuk ride to one of the many guesthouse by the river. Some of the best are the Bodi Tree which has a fantastic bar right by the river dock and the Magic Sponge, which has a pool, minigolf, a river dock and 50 cent beer everyday between 12pm and 4pm. Relax in a guesthouse bar of your choice and take a swim in the warm river. Have a beer or a coffee, and pair it with some signature Cambodian amok curry. It

makes for the perfect day for unwinding before you have to head back. Relax in the sun and soak in the slow pace, unmarred by droves or tourists, pollution, traffic or tour book plaudits. If youre like me and need a Sunday night taxi back, have the guesthouse ar-

range it for you it should cost about $40 and its a four-hour drive back to Phnom Penh. If you can leave late at night, or stay another day, its worth hanging around for a nightswim. Expats secret: the river in Kampot is phosphorescent.

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photo Chris James White

Singapores raging nightlife

By Pinky This is paradise, said the coach of Austrian football team called Ljupco Taneski during an evening of late-night partying that took us from 1-Altitude rooftop bar through to Clarke Quay, the centre of parties in Singapore. 1-Altitude bar is 282 meters above sea level; at 63 floors up in Singapores tallest building, its the highest rooftop bar in the world. Located at 1 Raffles Place in the city centre, getting there is easy; both the taxi stand and MRT station are just a few steps away. Getting in will cost you S$25 (US$12) per person and includes one drink, but as soon as you reach the bar your first impression is to wonder how a view like that comes so cheap. Grabbing a drink, its easy to make light conversation before moving onto the dancefloor, swaying to the music with the wind blowing in your face. The atmosphere was enthralling and it

"

was hard to tear ourselves away. But since Ljupco Taneski and I are tourists, we couldnt just stop there. We continued to discover Singapores night life by walking from the bar along the river to Clarke Quay. Along the way we passed Boat Quay on the river; loaded with bars, restaurants and KTV - its famous amongst locals and Chinese alike. Its a great place to stop and grab a more relaxed drink or a bite to eat before moving on. But, ready to party, we didnt stop and 10 minutes later wed arrived at Clarke Quay. This in itself is a great aspect of Singapores night life the ease with which you can go from one venue to another. Unlike many cities, taxis arent necessary at least not until the night is over. Clarke Quay isnt just for partying though; its a central area for commerce, thrumming with business during the day and buzzing with life by night at its assortment of restaurants, coffee shops, bars and clubs. Walking past the countless venues, we were absolutely spoiled for choice; Indian lounge, Chinese lounge, Mexican cuisine and bar, French cuisine and bar, live bands and mega clubs are all at your fingertips. Each is busy, so if

youre after something less congested, simply take a seat on the bridge overlooking the water with a bottle of wine from a local bottle shop. The area is full of locals and tourists alike, so regardless of where youre from, you dont feel like an outsider. Yet I almost found myself wanting less to choose from. I wanted to walk into every bar and see everything Singapore has to offer. But there are only so many hours in a night, so we ended up at the Highlander Scottish bar, which had a Filipino live band performing and a collection of good whiskeys to choose from, as well as some very attractive waiters wearing Scottish attire. The night seemed to slip by so quickly suddenly it was 3am and we felt very much in need of a taxi home. Even in the early hours, taxi queues can be long. Clearly, one night wasnt enough to visit Singapores best clubs and bars. A 15 minute walk from the Clarke Quay takes you to the New Asia bar at Swissotel, near City Hall MRT station. Again, entry will cost you US$12, but is great if you need a break from the elements and just want to relax in a booth or hit the dancefloor. Having an indoor area doesnt compromise the outdoor view

though, which at 71 floors up is just as stunning as 1-Altitudes. The best place to catch up with Ang- Moh people (which literally means red hair and is a Hokkien reference to the people with fair hair who settled from the West) is KU DE TA club, located on the rooftop of Sky Park Hotel at Marina Bay Sands. While drink prices may leave you feeling short-changed, the music and environment never disappoint. Ladies should keep Wednesday night open for a free drink and no entry charge. Free Tequila shots are given at midnight. KU DE TA isnt the only place that caters to ladies on a Wednesday night: every club at Clarke Quay, including Zirca, Arena, and Attica, as well as Power House and 1-Altitude offer the same deal, with Wednesdays being known city-wide as Ladies Night. As the bouncers and bartenders put it, Wn the ladies go out, the men will come fishing. But spirits-drinkers beware; a higher budget is required to party in Singapore. Prices can be double or even triple what you would pay in Thailand or Myanmar. One whisky bottle can easily set you back US$204 if you buy it inside a venue. However, there is a way to stick

to a lower budget. The many 7-Eleven convenience stores that dot Singapore are licensed to sell alcohol, and picking up drinks there is invariably a much cheaper option. The nights are long in Singapore, so you wont miss anything by grabbing a bottle and relaxing in your hotel or overlooking the water before heading out to the real parties. To get into any club you must be at least 19, and some, such as 1-Altitude, will only accept those who are aged 21 or older. Dress codes can also be strict, so shorts and slippers will see you turned away from most clubs. If you do have a long night out in Singapore, chances are it will leave something to be desired food! If you havent indulged in a restaurant, then fear not: the 24-hour McDonalds are waiting to fill the void. Not just for partygoers; students in Singapore often like to study late into the night. Not letting their age prevent them from staying out, its common to find them here at 2 or 3am youll never be alone at night in Singapore. Singapore is a two-and-a-half hour flight from Yangon. Flights start from US$360 with MAI and US$400 for Silk Air.

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Travels to the real Shangrila

By Talbot Leiter HAT comes to mind when someone says Shangri La? A mythical, nonexistent paradise? A five-star hotel? Perhaps an early 20th century novel? While many claim the namesake of one of the most popular places of legend on Earth, only one country has boldly made an official name change for the sake of tourism: Xiang ge li la or Shangrila, China, in the northwest of Yunnan province. Enchanted not only by its history but also the controversy surrounding it, thousands flock to this small mountain town every year. The town is located in southwest China, 40 kilometres from the Tibetan Autonomous Region border and at the beginnings of the Himalayas. The ancient Tibetan word for the area is Kham, one of three historical regions of Tibet, however the town was renamed in 2001 by the Chinese government to increase tourism to the area, and possibly to compete with the allure of Lhasa, located in the heart of cultural Tibet. As with many Chinese cities, the tourism industry is literally being built on the back of the adage out with old, in with the new. The road from Lijiang, an ancient town in Yunnan province, to Shangrila is the most popular route. From

Horse riding next to Bita Lake in Shangrila. photo Talbot Leiter

clothing begin to change and Tibetan script appears on billboards and advertisements. Goats climb the steep slopes and fallen rock from the cliffs above litter the road. Small villages dot the yellow hills, incongruously flying red flags adorned with

it begins to feel as though one has left China and entered a legendary world of monasteries and mountain peaks
the bustling town, recently renovated by the Chinese government, complete with McDonalds and HaagenDaaz, a bus travels up into the mountains on a bumpy yet perfectly sufficient winding road, taking you past the first bend of the Yangtze River, over Tiger Leaping Gorge and through the mountains and valleys, finally reaching the pasturelands of Greater Tibet. This road will not be used much longer. A new superhighway, with a tunnel blasting right through the mountains, is currently under construction and will cut travel times in half. For now, the bumpy road travels through breathtaking scenery, including craggy mountain ranges and deep river gorges. Faces and the Communist symbols of hammer and sickle amongst ancient Tibetan Buddhist prayer flags. Approaching Shangrila, the grasslands appear. Large yak with bushy white tails idle along the roadside. Mansion-size traditional Tibetan homes have walls comprised of mud and straw and their

rhombus-cut windows facing east. This is where it begins to feel as though one has left China and entered a legendary world of monasteries and mountain peaks. Shangrila is located in one of the most diverse regions of the world. No less than fourteen ethnically and culturally distinct groups call the province home, and although the Chinese classify all as being Tibetan, they each have their own unique traditions and dialect. Historically, they were divided into tribes and tiny kingdoms, but now mostly live in villages or farm their own land. Upon entering the town, stylistic street lamps and brand new, giant buildings with traditional motifs perplex many a visitor. Shangrila is a booming town, complete with a sprawling grammar school, small businesses, hotels (including the coming soon Shangri-La Hotel), a new hospital, banks, and an airport. Everything was constructed in the last five years and the government pro-

vides tax incentives to those willing to set up shop in this growing city. A shop owner in Shangrila who moved from Sichuan Province said the population has grown from 100,000 to 300,000 in the past three years. The old town consists of a small collection of traditional homes and shops and exists slap-bang in the centre of the new city. Almost every building in the new city has been gutted and refurbished to accommodate shops selling dried yak meat, fur coats, hats, jewellery, postcards, tea and traditional music. At night the stars are barely visible because spotlights point towards Asias largest prayer wheel and the Chinese Buddhist temple atop the old towns only hill. When nightclub music echoes across the cobble-stoned streets, one gets the sense that the remnants of traditional vil-

lage life are steadily being snuffed out. However all hope is not lost. A 15-minute drive with a friendly local takes you to a cattle ranch, where strong, short-legged horses can be ridden. These rather stumpy creatures are the same breed that Ghengis Khans army used as pack animals and warhorses. The horses carry heavy loads across traverse rocky terrain and can withstand the freezing temperatures at an altitude of 3500 metres. Another 10-minute drive leads to Snow Mountain, which is another 3000 metres above Shangrila. A pricey 45-minute cable car ride to the top of the mountain is well worth doing. During the smooth glide up the mountain, one can observe the bright green moss sprouting off pine trees, a mark of the absolute freshness of the

air. The wind is powerful at the summit, but its the view that will blow you away - 365 degrees of mountaintops. Tibet proper lies to the north, Kachin State in Myanmar to the west and the sharp tops of Tiger Leaping Gorge are seen south. Some say the best time to visit Shangrila is during summer, when the air is a cool relief from sticky sea-level temperatures, however a winter visit ensures a peaceful respite due to the lack of tourists. It may not be the Shangrila I imagined, but with the everincreasing pace of change, I doubt anywhere could live up to the Earthly paradise invented by James Hilton in his 1933 novel Lost Horizons. In Chinas Shangrila, people live and work in the shadows of a beautiful place that is, like almost everywhere else, affected by the winds of change.

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Legs' by Bang Kwang inmate Felix Cheremnykh.

Visiting a Bangkok prison

By Jessica Mudditt n a bright December morning in Bangkok, a ferry speeds along Chao Phraya River until only a handful of passengers are left at the final stop of Nonthaburi. Bang Kwang Prison is a short walk and a world away. The maximum security jail is sardonically known as the Bangkok Hilton by its foreign inmates or as The Big Tiger by Thais (because it prowls and eats). The visitor registration area across the road has just been demolished and its outdoor replacement bustles with a wide variety of nationalities and a strong majority of women. There is a hot food stall but few appear to have an appetite. After providing photocopies of my passport and the name and building number of the inmate I am about to visit, I spend the next hour talking to two women who have visited dozens of foreign prisoners over several years. Julie is going to see a Tibetan monk, whose paintings she sells on his behalf. As well as providing a creative outlet, the earnings help him cover the costs

of food and other necessities inside Bang Kwang. Prisoners receive one meal a day and in May 2012, the prison authorities banned food, books, clothing and other items being brought in by visitors. Inmates without access to cash do chores for the richer ones in order to buy food from the prison shop (where queues can be hours long). Other than money (which is deposited to

the maximum benefit I could, I knew virtually nothing about Luke and zero of his interests. I bought magazines in three languages; two of which he speaks. Until the night before I hadnt even known why he was jailed (suffice to say it was for being found guilty of trafficking a large quantity of drugs). When I began corresponding with his sister Emma, she wrote, You are most

that it was only because Id kept my sights in the guards direction that I knew to get up from my seat. Some of the visitors from the first session were leaving the prison as I made my way past men doing dustridden construction work. Julie told me they were inmates who are so close to being released that its deemed unnecessary to keep them in maximum security conditions.

In a city as hedonistic as Bangkok, this was something I could do that meant something to someone other than myself.
an official after the visit), the only item I can give is magazines which are also now prohibited. Every page of every magazine is scrutinised by a guard in a small office for exposed female curves: once approved, I am asked to write Lukes name and building number on the cover. Choosing magazines from a 7-Eleven the night before hadnt been easy: while hoping to provide welcome to visit [Luke] but I am not sure whether he would like to meet you. I think he will. Emma said it was her brothers decision whether he wanted to share his story. He did not wish to do so publicly. Therefore, his name and nationality, as well as the details of the offence have been changed or withheld. At about 9am my name was called out: it was so mispronounced Their faces were covered by cotton bandanas. A girl who appeared to be in her early 20s had tears streaming down her cheeks as she walked past me. She was the only person I saw crying that day. Male and female visitors are lined up separately for a thorough patdown by the guards before entering the prison compound. The guard in the mens line grinned after search-

ing an attractive transvestite, who turned on her heel to face us with a glamourous twist. As we walked towards a room with glass-partitions, I saw people staring into tiny screens in front of curtained rooms. Julie told me that the men behind the curtains were Bang Kwangs death row prisoners or those who had been placed in solitary confinement for misbehaviour. As the first visiting session came to an end, two inmates accompanied by guards walked through the open courtyard. The men wore brown cotton prison pajamas and were shackled to each other at the ankles and wrists. Someone called out my first name and I looked up in confusion. A man wearing a bright Nike t-shirt winked and kept walking. Julie said he must have remembered my name from the passport photocopy tray. Despite being totally inappropriate, I nevertheless felt grateful to see someone smile. I was beginning to understand, on a minute level, how dull life in prison must be. Although visiting someone in jail undoubtedly provides a better sense of perspective, this wasnt the object of the exercise. In a city as hedonistic as Bangkok, where tourists can shop, eat and drink beyond their hearts content, this was something I could do that meant something to

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Travel 2013

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someone other than myself. The following quote by a Russian inmate in Bang Kwang called Felix Cheremnykh is posted on the Luna-Rose Prisoner Support Societys website: One day the office called my name for a visit. That moment in my life is change. I have a chance to go from the cage. I go to talk with the Outside World, I go to talk with a real person, not just the other ghosts. When I turned to face the booth I had been allocated for the visit, I saw a man smiling into the phone receiver. I sat down and picked up the phone. I craned my neck to see him properly because the reflection of the glass panels made it difficult to do so prisoners and visitors are kept far enough away to prevent their hands meeting on opposite sides of the glass. Its also difficult to hear, because there are about 20 people talking into phone receivers at the same time. Hello Luke, I said nervously. My names not Luke, he said, still smiling. I panicked as I thought of disappointing Emma, who has never been able to visit her brother in jail and was anxiously awaiting news of him. The man told me that he was from Pakistan, had served eight years and was going home in a months time. He said hed been talking to someone during the first session but was told to hang up the phone before he could say anything else. I waited about 10 minutes before a second man appeared and sat down on the stool on the other side of the glass partitioned room. Luke was stunned that I had made contact with his sister. He spoke quietly and without much apparent confidence in English, but seemed glad to have someone to talk to. However he responded to several questions (such as whether he wanted me to pass on a message to his sister) by saying Never mind and sadly shaking his head. Prisoners rise at 5am and Luke said he cant sleep for more than two or three hours a night because he is thinking about the outside. Few fellow inmates share his ethnicity and he said many are nasty. The Thai Department of Corrections website, correct.go.th, states that Bang Kwang Prison provides inmates with: Recreation and entertainment facilities, both indoor and outdoor... These include library, television, radio, video, movies and various types of sports and games. These activities keep inmates strong, provide physical and emotional release [and] enable inmates to experience self confidence and new and better ways to spend their leisure time upon release.

A sketch by a Russian prisoner in Bang Kwang, Felix Cheremnykh.

tively more accepting of their situation Others succumb to mental illness, such as depression and/or tune out using drugs. After about a decade, the harsh negative effects of incarceration take a heavy toll on most inmates and it becomes much harder again for the inmate to keep going. Heather said she sees many men retreating further inside themselves, after being deprived of interaction with the outside world for so long. I left Luke with the promise to write and headed straight towards Klong Prem Womens Prison. I had been given the name of a Thai woman serving a 32-year sentence for drug trafficking. Her husband, arrested on the same charge, had been released sometime earlier and was suffering a condition Heather describes as survivor guilt. He is reportedly consumed with depression about the fact that his wife and cell-mates remain behind in Thai jails. It was a miserable sight to see children dozing off in the heat while many of us waited more than three hours for a visit. My stomach churned when I saw a prison guard pinch a toddlers cheek. There were very few foreigners in the waiting area and applying for a visit was confusing I missed hearing my name several times. Ai is less than halfway through her sentence. Yet even though she was sick and had to wait until the next day to be admitted to the prison hospital (which is standard procedure), she was generally upbeat. She spoke with a lot of enthusiasm for Jesus Christ and told me shes busy working in a factory and taking part in Bible classes (she converted more than a decade ago). She said her fellow inmates are like family to her and that only some of the young ones cause trouble. She greeted some of the missionaries that walked past and I jotted down a letter to pass onto her husband. Ai receives regular visits and was hopeful that she would be granted a Kings pardon the following day. As it turned out, she didnt. he was being held in Bombat prison prior to sentencing. His embassy hadnt been informed. Heather Luna-Rose, the director of Luna-Rose Prisoner Support Society and the person I spoke to while waiting to see Luke, said, Over the seven years I have been visiting foreign inmates Ive observed many coping strategies and psychological responses. She explained that there is usually a period of adjustment, when inmates are angry at the institution, the country, the justice system and often blame everyone around them for their situation. After a while, many inmates become more institutionalised, meaning relaHow to write to or visit a prisoner in Thailand: It isnt necessary to obtain permission in advance to visit if you know the name and building number of a prisoner, you can simply turn up on the days designated for visits (this varies according to the building number). Visitors are not limited to visiting their fellow citizens, however the procedure for obtaining the name of a prisoner varies depending on nationality try asking your embassy in Bangkok for help. To write to a British prisoner, visit www.prisonersabroad.org.uk/getinvolved/volunteer.html or email info@prisonersabroad.org.uk

However Luke told me that he hasnt heard a single note of music in Bang Kwang and that other than occasional cooking, he simply sits all day long in a crowded cell. I am the first visitor he has had in more than 18 months. I hear myself saying that 10 years will pass and that one day he will be free again. He is desperate to know whether his country has a prisoner exchange treaty, which would mean that he could leave Thailand after serving eight years. About half-way through the visit, Luke told me that he was set up by a friend at the airport. The pain in his eyes is intense; just as it is when

he said that he hasnt heard from his girlfriend of eight years. He doesnt believe she will wait for him. I try to reassure him but am later told by his sister that his girlfriend may be responsible for his situation. Emma also said that Lukes defense was conducted by a lawyer appointed by Thai authorities. She described the lawyer as a doll without any soul. As his family watched on, the lawyer just sat there playing with his pen and doing some drawings. He was hostile towards Lukes family never once speaking to them and there wasnt an option to appoint their own lawyer. Luke was missing for several months before Emma discovered