HISTORY

THE HISTORICAL FORTRESSES OF LARKANA & KAMBER SHAHDADKOT DISTRICTS IN NORTH-WEST SINDH
(A Geographical, Historical, Socio-Economic and Architectural Review)

By Sheikh Javed Ali Sindhi

KOT GHULAM SHAH-KAMBER

Published By Saroh Social Development Organization Shahdadkot Saroh Office, Near Scientific Public School, Railway Station Road, Shahdadkot, District Kamber-Shahdadkot, Sindh, Pakistan- 77300 Ph: +92-74-4012896, Cell: +92-3337505896/ 03342015896 E-mail: org.saroh@gmail.com

I dedicate The Historical Fortresses of Larkana & Kamber Shahdadkot Districts in North-West Sindh To Dr. Kaleemullah Lashari Ph.D. Archeologist/Conservationist/Historian/Explorer & (The former Secretary to the Government of Sindh Department of Antiquities)
Who is one of those personalities in my life that have really inspired me beyond writing these types of works

The Historical Fortresses of Larkana & Kamber Shahdadkot Districts of North-West Sindh (A Geographical, Historical, Socio-Economic and Architectural Review)
By Sheikh Javed Ali Sindhi

The Upper Sindh is dotted with forts of varied sizes that depict the rich and valiant history of the land. Most of these forts were built during the Mughal, Kalhora and Talpur Rules over Sindh. These forts were the marvels of Architecture. Some of them still showcase their grandeur and magnificence. In local languages the fort names are suffixed by local word for fort thus usage of the Sanskrit word durga, or Hindi word qila or the word garh or gad in Rajasthan, Assam and Maharashtra is common. For example, Suvarnadurg, Mehrangarh, Sudhagad etc. In Sindh such structures are called as Kot. Its diminutive Nouns are Kotro or Kotri. Mohenjodaro, situated 27 Km in the south of Larkana was also a fortified city in 2600 BCE. Bakhar, Rani Kot and Hyderabad forts are one of the best examples of Sindhi Military Fortifications that still stand with great grandeur and magnificence. Three major methods were used for the construction of ancient Indian forts. The first consisted of earthen ramparts. Often they were constructed of the sand which was dug out of the ditch surrounding the fort. The second of rubble with earth on the outside which was more sturdy. The third type of construction was with stone and masonry work. The last was the strongest. Often materials from demolished forts were reused in the building of new forts. The Arthashastra the Indian treatise on military strategy describes six major types of forts differentiated by their major mode of defense. These are 1) the Jal durg:a fortress surrounded by water, 2) the Giri durgs: is a hill or mountain fortress, 3) the Vana durg, would be surrounded on all sides with a dense, impassable forest, 4) the Dhanu durg are desert fortresses, usually to be found in an arid area bare of trees, grass or sources of water, 5) the Mahi durg or earth fortress and 6) the Nar durg or fortress with men, which was defended by a large and loyal army of proven warriors, and was well supplied with arms. In Sindh & Balochistan the Mahi durg or earthen fortresses were common to protect the humans as well as trade caravans coming from Central Asia, Afghanistan, Iran and Balochistan. Lieutenant Hugh James in his Report on the Purguna of Chandookah in Upper Sind (1847) says, The villages in Chandookah are of good size, and nearly all possess a bazaar. The houses are of mud, with flat roofs, and those of the poorer classes are are of Tamarisk wood, covered with mats and boughs, or, where procurable, grass. Many villages are composed almost entirely of dwellings of later description, little if any distinction being observable between the sheds of the cattle and of their owners. In low lands the villages are raised, and sometimes have also a ditch all round them, as a guard against the waters of inundation. Those which were the residences of Chiefs, or large Zumindars and Government officials, have mud forts, with a tower at each corner, and in almost all defense for the inhabitants when suddenly attacked by predatory bands. Similar towers are also frequently met with in the middle of the fields, for the protection of the crops against the inroads of the mountain robbers. The mosque, the bazaar, and the head mans house or fort constitute the village, and around them are Landees or Sheds of the Sindees, usually in enclosures of thorns, containing the dwellings and cattlesheds, and a platform raised on the poles, on which the people sleep in the hot weather. Adjoining these are the pens for goats and sheep, formed likewise of thorns. The number of villages in the district, of all sizes, is 392. (Page 721)
RANI KOT

Some of the most notable forts of Larkana & Kamber Shahdadkot Regions in Upper Sindh are as under; FORTIFICATION OF MOHENJODARO Mohenjodaro was built around 2600 BCE, it was one of the largest settlements of the ancient Indus Valley Civilization, and one of the world's earliest major urban settlements, contemporaneous with the civilizations of ancient Egypt, Mesopotamia, and Crete. Mohenjodaro was abandoned in the 19th century BCE, and was not rediscovered until 1922.Significant excavation has since been conducted at the site of the city, which was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1980. Mohenjodaro, the modern name for the site, simply means Mound of the Dead in Sindhi. The city's original name is unknown, but analysis of a Mohenjodaro seal suggests a possible ancient Dravidian name, Meluha. Mohenjodaro is located in the Larkana District of Sindh, Pakistan, on a Pleistocene ridge in the middle of the flood plain of the River Valley, around 28 kilometers (17 mi) from the town of Larkana. The ridge was prominent during the time of the Indus Valley Civilization, allowing the city to stand above the surrounding plain, but the flooding of the river has since buried most of the ridge in deposited silt. At its peak of development, Mohenjodaro could have housed around 35,000 residents. It is 4 miles in circuit and more than 100 hectares in size. It represents the largest city of the Indus Valley Civilization which once existed over a vast geographical area, more than 500,000 sq miles. Mohenjodaro also presents an outstanding feature of town planning traversed by streets and lanes and lined with public and private buildings with an elaborate drainage system. The city is divided into two parts, the so-called Citadel and the Lower City. The Citadel a mud-brick mound around 12 meters (39 ft) high is known to have supported public baths, a large residential structure designed to house 5,000 citizens, and two large assembly halls.

Under the supervision of Sir John Marshal (1876-1958), large scale excavations were carried out from 1922 to 1931. In 1925, Mr. K.N. Dikshit, then Superintendent of the Archaeological Survey, Western Circle, while carrying on excavations at Mohenjodaro, examined two other Chalcolithic sites, namely Lohumjo-daro in the Larkana District and Limo Junejo in the Shahdadkot taluka of Upper Sind Frontier/Jacobabad District. But further progress in pushing on this investigation could not be made owing to his transfer from Western India in 1926. Near Mohenjodaro itself is Badah, and outside the town of Larkana, the important site of Jhukar. Further excavations were done by E.J.H Mackay between 1926 and 1932. While Q.M.Munir resumed digging from 1934 to 1936. In 1950 Sir Mortimer Wheeler excavated at 2 principal spots of the citadel mound. In 1964, George F.Dales carried out limited digging at the city site and tried to reach the lowermost levels of the city through borings. In 1986, Dr. Muhammad Sharif and Muhammad Halim carried out limited work about 2 Km in the east of the city. The site continued to attract International attention and thus Michael Jansen dug there in 1985 and provided fresh data regarding the site. Some of the Archeologists believe that Mohenjodaro had no circuit of city walls, but was otherwise well fortified, with guard towers to the west of the main settlement, and defensive fortifications to the south. Considering these fortifications and the structure of other major Indus valley cities like Harappa, it is postulated that Mohenjodaro was an administrative center. Both

Harappa and Mohenjodaro share relatively the same architectural layout, and were generally not heavily fortified like other Indus Valley sites. Sir Mortimer Wheeler (1962), Ahmed Hassan Dani (1986) and Alock (1986) all have presented Chronologies of Mohenjodaro but recently Dr. Michael Jansen (1985) proposed 5 periods with a subdivision of period IIB; I IIA IIB IIB.1 IIB.2 IIC III Pre-platform period Platform period Urban period Mature Urban phase Late Urban phase Post-urban period Kushan period

Great Massacre at Mohenjodaro

Peterson Michiel, in his, Agressive Architecture: Fortifications of the Indus Valley in the Mature Harappan Phase, MA Research & Thesis, Faculty of Archeology, Leiden, June 13, 2012, discussing Mohenjodaro Fortress says, At Mohenjodaro, a total of 15 seasons of excavation took place. The first excavation took place in 1920s when Sir John Marshall led a series of campaigns. Marshall found no firm evidence of any walling or fortifications. However, this was not ultimate proof since brick robbers could have taken away a lot of bricks as was done to other buildings. Of particular interest, is site no.3. Site no.3 is a fortress-like north of the mound of the great bath. The structure has triangular-shaped projections and 14 feet (4.3 m) thick outer wall and was constructed on the possible city wall which was very long at some points 30 feet (9.1 m). However due to financial issues this interesting feature was not further explored (Mackay 1938:4-5) Just as at Harappa, it was Mortimer Wheeler again who, in 1950, shed more light on the citadel and its fortifications. His goal, besides training the staff, was to reach earlier levels than before and test the hypothesis that Mohenjodaro had a fortified citadel. However, his findings were not published in detail. (Pages 36-39) JHUKAR FORTRESS The ancient site of Jhukar is situated 6 miles due west of Larkana or 17 miles noth-west of Mohenjodaro. It is close to village Mithodero and Syed Yousif Shah Shrine. It covers a total area of 1300x850 feet (10 hectares) consisting of 2 mounds, designated A and B, and the approximately 300 foot wide area between the two mounds. The large mound B is roughly circular, 750x700 feet (4.7 hactares), and rises 60 feet above the surrounding plain. The small one A is only 17 feet high, stretches along the northern side of mound B in EastWest direction, and measures 850 feet long and 300 feet wide. It is said that Jhukar was also a fortified city in the past. In 1918, R.D.Banerji of the Archeological Survey of British India had excavated at the highest mound B of Jhukar and identified it with the remains of a Buddhist Stupa. He did not reach the early settlement, which actually lies more than 40 feet below the present surface of the mound, and below the remains of the early historical period. N.G. Majumdar dug in 1928 at Jhukar and found pottery reminiscent of Mature Harappan Ceramic forms but having distinctive painted designs. (M.Rafique Mughal: Jhukar & the Late Harappan Cultural Mosaic of the Greater Indus Valley, South Asian Archeology 1989, 213-220) N.G.Mujmadar participated in the excavations at Mohenjo-daro since 1925, under Sir John Marshall, Rai Bahadur Daya Ram Sahni and Dr. B. J.H. Mackay. He had gained sufficient familiarity with the remains of the ` Indus` civilization. In the cold weather of 1927, a grant placed by Sir John-Marshall at his disposal enabled him to conduct excavations on a modest scale at the mounds of Jhukar near Larkana. Later he compiled the data in his book entitled Explorations in Sind: Being a Report of the Exploratory Survey carried our during the years 1927-28, 1929-30 and 1930-31 published in 1934. The book spread on 174 pages along with maps and illustrations. Majmadar found remains of Harappa Period from the lower levels of Jhukar and also found remains of other buildings together with a new kind of pottery which Majumdar termed as Late Jhukar. He also discovered the

3rd culture, the Indo Sassanians along with 250 copper and bronze coins of Kushan King Vasudeva and his succesors. Some of these coins also belong to the Gupta Characters of the 5th Century AD. According to M.Rafique Mughal the structures of mud and mud bricks, and a collection of valuable ceramics and antiquities including Buddhist Votive Stupas of Clay, Coins, Sculptures and Terracota figures, Beads, Household Material and Precious Stones are found from Jhukar Mounds. The excavations at Jhukar once again started in summer 1973 under the general direction of Ahmed Nabi Khan, then Superintendent of Explorations, assisted in the field by Masoodul Hassan Khokhar and Gulzar Ahmed Khan, then Field Officers in the exploration Branch of the Department of Archeology, Government of Pakistan. The next and final comprehensive season lasted for 4 months from November 1973 to February 1974, under the direction of M.Rafique Mughal. The Jhukar Phase followed the Harappa Culture around the middle of the 2nd millennia BC. It, in turn, was followed by the Jhangar Phase. In Pakistans Sind province the Post-Urban phase is recognizable in the Jhukar culture at Chanhu-Jo-Daro and other sites. The site had also connections with Pirak and Mehergarh. A new Archeological Site Nathar Jo Daro has been recently discovered near Jhukar. According to Irshad Rid, the Curator of Mohenjodaro, the mound of Nathar Jo Daro is located in the east of Khairpur Juso, some 6 Km away from Jhukar Mounds and 12 Km from Larkana City. He suggested that the site is contemporary to Jhukar and Mohenjodaro. This site is spread over 12 acres of state land and artifacts suc as necklace, chess pawn, pieces of bones, utensils, and carnelian were found during initial visit of Archeologists in 2012. This mound was found by the people when contractors of the Frontier Works Organization (FWO) lifted mud from a mound to use in the constructing the Larkana Sehwan Road. The site falls in the Revenue limits of Deh Nathar in the Larkana district. Commissioner Larkana Syed Asif Hyder Shah ordered the FWO to immediately case lifting mud from the mound after getting confirmation from the Mohenjodaro Curator. Dr. Memon Abdul Mated Sindhi mentioned ruins of another old mound near Jhukar called Vilhi Jo Daro. According to the folklore of the area Vilhi is said to be the sister of Jhukar who was a mighty ruler of the Larkana region. The Archeologists believe that this grand city of Indus Valley Civilization was also surrounded by high walls.

Satellite Image of Jhukar Jo Daro close to Biro Chandio/Larkana

MAHOTA FORTRESS The Mahota Caste lives in Sindh, Balochistan and the Punjab provinces of Pakistan. Mahota is said to be the sub caste of Jats. In Jats, some believe that they are from Kharal, the other consider themselves as from Bhatti while some of them call themselves as from Soomra tribes. Most probably Mahota are the Abras. The historical village of Mahota is situated 8 Km in the north east of Larkana on Larkana- Naudero Road on the banks of old Ghar Wah. The village has a Government Primary School, Hospital, police station, railway station and a post office. Mahota once was a prosperous town of the Prasiane Island of Indus River known as Oxycanus in Greek records. Curtius calls the subject of Oxykanos the Praesti, a name which would indicate that they inhabited a level country, since the Sanskrit word of which their name is transcript-prastha-denotes a tableland or a level expense. The name, Saint Martin thinks, is in Justin altered to Praesidae; but Justin, it appears to me, means the Praisioi thereby. Oxykanos is called both by the Strabo and Diodoros Portikano; representing perhaps the Sanskrit Partha, a prince. It is not easy to determine where his domains lay. They were not on the Indus, for Alexander left that river to attack them. Cunningham places them to the west of the Indus River in the level country around Larkana , which though now close to the Indus, was in Alexanders time about forty miles distant from it. Their capital he identifies with Mahorta/Mahota, a place about 10 miles north-west from Larkana, where there are remains of an ancient fortress on a huge mound, whence perhaps its name Maha-urddha,very high. (The Invasion of India by Alexander the Great: As described by Arrian, Quintus Curtius, Diodoros, Plutarch and Justin By J.W.MCrindle 1896, Reprint 1992, Indus Publications Karachi Sindh Pages 158). Oxycanus whose king was Porticanus subordinate ruler of Upper Sindh whose country formed an Island, took stand against Alexander the Great in Winter 325 B.C, but was defeated , captured and killed after 3 days siege of his strong fortress ; booty distributed among the soldiers, elephants retained for future wars and Porticanus men sold as slaves. Alexanders forces had crossed little known village as Mahota. It was named by his forces as Maota in Greek. Charles Masson (1800-1853) was the pseudonym of James Lewis, a British East India Company soldier and explorer. He served in the Battle of Bharatpur in India. In 1826, Charles Masson came across some mysterious brick mounds in Sindh, Balochistan and the Punjab. He thought they looked like old castles. In 1827, while stationed at Agra, he and a colleague deserted and traveled through parts of the Punjab that were not under British control at that time. At Ahmadpur, they were rescued by Josiah Harlan and commissioned as mounted
orderlies in his expedition to overthrow the regime in Kabul, Afghanistan. Not long afterward, near Dera Ghazi Khan, he deserted Harlan. He was the first European to see the ruins of Harappa, described and illustrated in his book Narrative of Various Journeys in Balochistan, Afghanistan and The Panjab, (4 Volumes), published from London in 1844. Thirty years later in 1856, engineers building a railway found more bricks, and carted them off to build the railway. This was the first people knew of the lost Indus city of Harappa near Sahiwal, Punjab now in Pakistan. He also visited the North-West Frontier Province and Balochistan, serving as an agent of the East India Company. Henry Cousins (1929) mentions in his book The Antiquities of Sind that Masson (1844), Sir Alexander Cunningham (1871) and Raverty (1896) have described the castle of Mahota in their writings. He himself considered this ruin as a Buddhist Stupa. Masson describes Mahota as, the remains of an ancient fortress, on a huge

mound, named Maihota. (Travels 461) According to M.H. Panhwar (1983) Mahota flourished on branch passing through Alore gorge up to 1250 AD. PORTICANUS FORTRESS Megasthenes (350 290 BCE) was a Greek ethnographer in the Hellenistic period, author of the work Indica. He was born in Asia Minor (modern day Turkey) and became an ambassador of Seleucus I of Syria possibly to Chandragupta Maurya in Pataliputra, India. However the exact date of his embassy is uncertain. Scholars place it before 298 BC, the date of Chandragupta's death. Arrian explains that Megasthenes lived in Arachosia, with the satrap Sibyrtius, from where he visited India. Giving description of Prasiane Island Megasthenes says, The Indus Called by the inhabitants Sindus, rising on that spur of Mount Caucasus which is called Paropamisus, from sources fronting the sunrise, receives also itself nineteen rivers, of which the most famous are the Hydaspes, which has four tributaries; the Cantabra, which has three; the Acesines and the Hypasis, which are both navigable; but nevertheless, having no very great supply of water, it is nowhere broader than fifty stadia, or deeper than fifteen paces. It forms an extremely large island, which is called Prasiane, and a smaller one, called Patale. Its stream, which is navigable, by the lowest estimates, for, 1,240 miles, turns westward as if following more or less closely the course of the sun, and then falls into the ocean. Fragments from Megasthenes: Indika ("From: Ancient India as Described by Megasthenes and Arrian. Translated and edited by J. W. McCrindle. Calcutta and Bombay: Thacker, Spink, 1877, 30-174.")

The Island of Prasiane was also called as Oxykanos or Oxycanus by the historians. According to Arrian of Nicomedia (86 BCE-160 A.D), a Roman (Greek) historian, public servant, military commander and philosopher of the 2nd-century Alexander the Great started campaign against Oxykanos. He writes in Chapter XVI-under the Title of Campaign against Oxykanos and Sambus; then he took the archers and the Agrianians and the cavalry which was sailing with him, and marched against the governor of a district in that part of the country whose name was Oxykanos, because he neither came himself nor sent envoys to offer the surrender of himself and his country. Quintus Curtius Rufus in his History of the Alexander the Great says; Having thereafter the reduced the Musicani, Alexander put a garrison into their capital, and marched thence into the country of Praesti, another Indian tribe. Their king was Porticanus, and he with a great body of his countrymen had shut himself up within a strongly-fortified city. Alexander, however, took it after a three days siege. Porticanus, who had taken refuge within the citadel after the capture of the city, sent deputies to the king to arrange about terms of capitulation. Before they reached him, however two towers had fallen down with a dreadful crash, and the Macedonians having Made their way through the ruins into the citadel, captured it and slew Porticanus , who with a few others had offered resistance. Having demolished the citadel and sold all the prisoners, he marched into the territories of Sambus, where he received the submission of numerous towns.

Alexander, moved, occupied Sambus Territories city by city including his capital Sindimana or present-day Sehwan. Diodorus (McCrindle, p. 292 states that Sambus collected 60,000 foot soldiers , 6000 horses and 500 Chariots from his cities which had democratic form of Government. This figure of soldiery from present Dadu and Larkana districts seems gross exaggeration. Alexander put 80,000 of Sambus men to the sword. According to Plutarch, it was at Sehwan, that he interviewed Logymnosophists (Brahmans or Yogis), who had made Sambus to rebel. Simultaneously Musicanus, the chief of Machhka or Alore like Sambus and Porticanus was also defeated, captured by Peithon, and put to death; his cities razed to ground and inhabitants reduced to slavery. It was called Budhia (The Land of Budhists) during 8th Century A.D. In 15th Century it was called with the name of Chandookah (Chandka) Purgannah or the District of Chandio Tribe.

Route of Alexander the Great 323 B.C

DHAMRAHO FORT Dhamraho Jo Daro is situated near village of Dhamrah, 8 Km from Badah Railway Station in Taluka Dokri district Larkana, Sindh. The site is 15 Km distant from district headquarter and about 2 Km from village Dhamraho. The site can be visited through Badah Mehar Road. Its GPS location is 68 01 10E 27 20 11N. The site was reported in 1920. Two mounds are there, Achho Daro (White Mound) and Garho Daro (Red Mound) circular in plan and conical in shape. This is a huge site, spread on an area of 7.24 acres. It comprises of 3 mounds or stupas and ruins of monasteries and citadel walls. Two stupas have very close affinity; the third one is on a short distance of half km. The main stupa or Red Mound (Garho Daro) is 12 meters high. This lies in the centre of a sacred area. This stupa has been built up with mud or unbaked or unburned bricks like other stupas of Sindh. These stupas are circular in plan and conical in shape. It is strewn with pottery and old brick bats. This large stupa or Red Mound still has a conical hallow as its centre, it actually resembles the crater of an extinct hollow. Dhamraho in fact consists of a citadel, which is also built of unbaked or mud bricks. In spite of these stupas there is another irregular cluster of mounds, which represent the ruins of monasteries and other building or sacred places of the township. It is a Buddhist Complex in structure. There are 3 stupas and 1 vihar inside the site. The site timely requires exploration and preservation. Henry Cousins has described Dhamraho Jo Daro in his Book entitled Antiquities of Sind (1929) and identifies it as a Buddhist site. He was appointed by Sir John Marshall, Director General of Indian Archeology in 1903. Cousins started working on the Classical monuments of 200 B.C-500 AD, the Graco-Indian Buddhist Art and Architecture. In this period were explored Thul Mir Rukan (190506), Mirpur Khas Stupa (1909-10), Sudheran Jo Daro (1914-15), Kahu Jo Daro, Tower at Khamraho (1920-21), Kahu Jo Daro (192223), Dhamraho Jo Daro (1925-26) and Sassui Jo Takar (1929-30) by Cousins and others. It has come into light that Dhamraho Jo Daro was surrounded by a fort whose walls have been discovered at the site by Archeologists.

SISAM FORT Sisam was a famous fort of Budhiya, a province located in the north-west of Sindh in present Dadu, Larkana & Kamber Shahdadkot regions. The earliest reference of this fort in Chachnama is given as follows: - "(Chach) started for the Budhia fort and Siwistan (Sehwan) to punish the Buddhist tribes. When Siwistan (Sehwan) was attacked by Muhammad Bin Qasim, the governor of Sewistan, Bajhirai fled to Budhiya after crossing River Indus. In those days the ruler of the Budhiya territory was Kaka, son of Kotal Channa, a Samani or Buddhist monk. He was highly respected by the Channa, Wadha, Kaka, Lakha, Jat, Lohana, Manika, Samma and Saheta tribesmen. According to the footnotes of Dr. Nabi Bux Khan Baloch in Chachnama & Tuhfat-ul-Kiram, Bhako (Bago) was priest of Sisam. The word Bhako and Bago resemble with each other. It is supposed that the ruins of present Bago Daro belonged to Bhako, the priest of Sisam in Budhiya province of Sindh. Bhako was son of Bhand Rakho Channo who served the minstrels lovingly. The site of Bago Daro is situated 15 Km in the south-west of Shahdadkot. It is round about 200 meters long and 150 meters wide. Its maximum height is more than 10 meters. The mounds of Vikiye Ji Maari and Pholiro are also located in the neighborhood of this old city. The Khirthar hill-torrents and Edan Wah flowed from its west which grew dense woodland and deep forests. A large number of wild animals, birds and the fish were found in this area. The stronghold of Kaka was Sisam/ Sisara, a fortress on the banks of the Kumbh or Kanba (River/Lake) which was inhabitated by the Jats. As their religion was Buddhism that is why they were called as Budh. Slowly the word was changed as Budhro diminutive noun of Budh. Later on, the word Budhro became Buriro, which is a well-known Sindhi tribe living in the west of Shahdadkot through the Khirthar hills. Most of the Buriro men and women are tall like Jats. According to my observation the originality of word Sisam is Shisham which is the name of a tree found in Sindh & Balochistan and is famous for its valuable wood. As the Shisham tree (Dalbergia Sissoo) was abundantly found in and around Bago Daro area, so the area was named as Shisham and wrongly pronounced Sisam by the Arab historians and geographers. A Stupa or Watch Tower also stood on the top of the great mound. It was destroyed by treasure hunters some years back. Describing ruined town of Bago Daro, J.W. Smyth writes that, At the census of 1911, eight villages were shown as containing over 300 inhabitants. At the present time there are not more than three such villages in the whole taluka. The once flourishing village of Bago Daro at the tail of the Edan is now little more than a mass of ruins. As already stated, beyond the Edan there are no villages proper: the people settle where they see a chance of making cultivation, and then move on somewhere else. (Settlement Report of the Shahdadkot Taluka in Upper Sindh frontier/Jacobabad District, Sind, Compiled by J.W. Smyth, the Deputy Commissioner Upper Sind Frontier, Jacobabad 24 April 1920, Page No.2) On the request of District Superintendant Police Larkana, Government of Sindh increased Police Force and installed telephone system at Hamal, Ghaibidero, Bago Daro, Qubo Saeed Khan and Imam Bux Jamali posts in order to control robbers on Sindh Balochistan border. This notification was issued by the Government of Sindh on 8th February 1940. Soomro, Awan, Mastoi, Khokhar, Buriro, Khuhawar, Chandio, Manganhar, Gadahi, Khosa, Magsi and Machhi castes lived in and around Bago Daro.The Khuhawar & Awan familes had migrated from Punjab and settled here in the days of Raja Ranjit Singh.( Maulana Din Muhammad Wafai: 1974: 245). The village also contained a police station and a vernacular school. Bago Daro fell after 1950s.
Satellite Image of Bago Daro: Its ruined town and water tanks

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The people of Budhiya and the chiefs of the surrounding places came to receive Bajhirai, the fleeing governor of Sewistan/ and allowed him to encamp under the fort of Sisam. After Siwistan fell, Muhammad Bin Qasim marched with all his force, except the garrison, which was placed under the officer left in Sewistan, and alighted at a place called Nilhan (Nidhan) on the banks of Kumbh. Later on, he proceeded to Sisam and the people of Budhiya and chief of Sewistan rose up to fight. His object was to subjugate the western bank of the Indus. After the siege of Sisam Abdul Malik-bin-Qais was appointed Naib in Budhiya. In the mean while Arab Army waited for instructions from Hajaj. After 2 days siege, the Arab Army conquered Sisam where Bajhiria-Bin-Chander, the cousin of Dahir was slain with 1000 Rawats and Thakars. After his expedition to Siwistan and Budhiya, he was directed by Hajjaj to return to Nirun, and make preparations for crossing the River Indus. M.R.Haig considers that the district of Budhia, which he transcribes Budhiya, was to the west of the Indus in north western Sindh. After the conquest of Sindh by the Arab Army, many Buddhists converted to Islam but they did not change their religious identity and named themselves Budh as a caste or tribe. Many Budhs lived in the Nari region of Kachhi in Balochistan province. Matt, is their tribal seat still these days. While other famous settlements and villages are Hashim Budh, Matt Kalu, and Matt Seendhur, near Jhal Magsi. During 1870s the chief of Budh Tribe was Wadero Hashim Budh who was killed by the Buriro tribesmen of Gadah Gharo. Dr. Nabi Bux Khan Baloch visited villages of Budh tribes in December 1972. He pointed out that many Budh tribesmen had been living in Larkana and Khairpur districts of Sindh. (Jangnama) H.T. Lambrick (1977) places Sisam on the banks of Saroh Lake in the south west of Shahdadkot in Kamber taluka. On the other hand some of the historians call this location as Sindh Sagara, Sangra, and Saroh. Saroh is the name of a lake formed by Khenji River and other hill torrents of Khirthar Range in north western corner of Sindh. The inhabitants of the vicinity were all infidels, who assembled together as soon as they saw Arab Army, and determined to make a night attack on it, and disperse it. Kaka went over to Muhammad Bin Qasim and actually aided him in plundering the country, capturing Sisam, and slaying or dispersing the chiefs of Budhiya. It is suggested that Sisam was located somewhere on the banks of Khenji River flowing through Khirthar Range in the south west of Shahdadkot. There are some old graves in the neighborhood of Ghaibidero which are said to be the Arab soldiers of Muhammad Bin Qasim who were killed by the local Jats during his campaign in the Budhiya province. One of these graves belongs to Pir Kamil Qureishi near Ghaibidero. The ancestors of the Qureishi family of Juanai had also come with Muhammad Bin Qasim. Ibn-e-Batuta visited these Qureishi Scholars during his stay at Junani in 1333 AD. Khenji River makes a head start from 1508 m (5000 ft) high peak Machhul and causes flash floods during rains. This point is also called as Toshangi/ Tushangi in the shape of a natural pond. From this pond one can see the Khenji making a Y; hence its called Treshangi, meaning Three Barched corrupted to Toshangi or Tushangi. Due to some prehistoric earthquakes walls of this channel fell no less than 200 meters to the water below. From this point, unseen by mortal man, the Khenji River, not entirely 50 Kilometers in length, is borne inside the abyssal womb of primordial Limestone fed by myriad hidden springs of Khirthar. This is what H.T.Lambrick, a British Archeologist and Civil Servant (1940) had called the Grand Canyon of Sindh, between vertical cliffs 500 feet high.
Nai Sita in the south of Ghaibidero-Kamber

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Toshangi is reached from Larkana. From Larkana a road goes westwards to the town of Kambar and then further to the village of Garhi Khair Muhammad Kartio and the last stop on this paved road is the town of Ghaibidero. Ghaibidero is 64 km (39.3 miles) from Larkana. Ghaibidero is famous because it is the seat of famous and powerful Chandio family. Ghaibidero also lies at the head of the Khenji River. From here a jeep track follows Khenji River westwards for an hours jeep journey (other choice is to travel by camel) until it reaches a village called Rahu jo Aitho. This little village is the starting point of Toshangi gorge. Salman Rashid visited Khenji River in 1990s. Describing ruins of Lalan Ji Maari, he says, We climbed up the boulder strewn mound of Lalan ji Mari, a large ruined Bronze Age settlement, to a crowd of two or three hundred men of all ages come to witness a cock fight. Two hundred men jostled to shake our hands with an eagerness that said this was the single most important function of their lives. Israr, the son of the chief, knew his role well and made his way to the centre of the crowd where he sat regally cross legged on a blanket laid out especially for him. The other important Nais or Hill-torrents of Qubo Saeed Khan & Shahdadkot are as follows; 1) Narani 2) Mardan 3) Kharghani 4) Buz 5) Alkah 6) Dhadhar 7) Khenji & 8) Wahandri. In August 2010, these hill-torrents along with Bolan, Mulla and Nari Rivers of Balochistan joined River Indus flood waters and brought great destruction in the area from Shahdadkot to Sehwan. Well-known UK Journalist Gethin Chamberlain, South Asia Correspondent at The Observer visited Shahdadkot on 28th August 2010. He tells that the journey to Bago Daro covered 35 Km and took the best part of three hours. He further wrote that the people had been drinking flood waters. They had no food, no medicine. The River Indus flood waters had washed out villages, livestock and crops, everything that stood in its way. Many villagers took refuge in the burial ground of Bago Daro, the only piece of high mound in the area. Small boats rescued those strong, and lucky, enough to have survived the waters. There was only room for 20 people out of hundreds who were trapped on the small island surrounded by a vast sea of water stretching to the horizon in all directions.

August 2010: People from villages around Bago Daro wait for rescue by boats

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JUNANI FORT Lous Flam (Ph D U Penn, 1981; Asst Prof) in his Research Paper; Fluvial Geomorphology of the Lower Indus Basin (Sindh Pakistan) and the Indus Civilization published in Himalaya to the Sea: Geology, Geomorphology, and the Quaternary Compiled by John F. Shroder London: Routledge, (1993), Says, The Lower Indus Project (1965) and Holmes (1968) used the comprehensive methodology to delineate 6 major Post- Pleistocene River remnants in the northwest and north central plain of the Lower Indus Basin : (1) Kandhkot Course; (2) Jacobabad Course; (3) Shahdadkot Course; (4) Warah Course; (4) Khairpur Course; and (6) present day course of the Indus River. Of the course remnants listed above, numbers 1-6 belong to former or recent course of the Indus River. Following Butler (1950), Pels (1964) and Schum f bg (1968) , the Jacobabad , Shahdadkot, Warah, Sanghar, and Samaro-Dhoro Badahri course remnants can be considered the older or prior stream course of the present Indus River, and the Kandhkot, Khairpur, and Shahdadpur course remnants can be considered younger or ancestral courses of the Indus River. The Jacobabad Course, marked by sub recent river terraces, is traceable as the most northwesterly and oldest of the former river courses of the Lower Indus Basin. Traces of this course emerge from the present Indus River near Kandhkot, and run in westerly direction toward Jacobabad where the courses remnant deposits become mixed with Kachhi Plain piedmont sediments and the course becomes untraceable any further west. While The Shahdadkot Course remnant is traceable as a zone of bars and channels from southwest of Jacobabad down to Shahdadkot where it disappears (Holmes 1968). This course is perhaps the remnant of a distinct and independent river course; i.e. separate from the Jacobabad course. Aerial photographs and maps of the prior river courses of the Lower Indus Basin permit speculation that the Jacobabad and Shahdadkot Channels should have been two reaches of the same river. The Warah Course occurs as a distinctive broad zone of extensive high bar deposits and indicative of a major river (Holmes 1968). Similar to the Jacobabad course, the Warah Course had its origin near Kandhkot. Unlike the Jacobabad course, which ran due to west from Kandhkot, the Warah course turned toward the southeast a short distance west of Kandhkot. Running southwest of Kandhkot, the Warah course is clearly traceable as it passes west of Sukkur and Ratodero, through Warah, and west of Mehar towns. West of Mehar the Alluvial deposits of the Warah Course are intermixed with and obscured by piedmont plain deposits of the Khirthar Mountains along the entire length of the trough extending from Jacobabad to Manchhar Lake (Bull 1972 & Ansari 1973). Previously the Warah trough had been thought to have been a major independent river course of the westernmost part of the Lower Indus Basin, but this is not precisely the case. The trough was named Western Nara Channel by Pithawala (1936/1959), Fraser (1958) and Memon (1969), but should not be confused with the seasonal spillway of a later time scalled the Western Nara (Holmes 1968). The trough was a major river course in that it was an extension and part of the Jacobabad and Warah courses. Raverty (1895) called it the Sindh Hollow, and noted that it was also referred to locally as the Ran or Marsh, the Pat or Desert, or the Dasht-i-Bedari. Sindh Hollow was the designation used by Panhwar (1969) and is used herein. According to M.H.Panhwar, the Arab traveler Ibne Batuta (1304-1369), after crossing western branch of the Indus between Kandhkot and Thul / Jacobabad and two days by boat or march along its embankment reached Junnani a large fine town on the bank of the Western Branch (called Warah Course). Ibne Batuta might have entered Sindh by Suleman Range into Lower Indus Valley. His original text (1333 A.D) reads as follows; After crossing the river of Sind called Banj Ab, we entered a forest of reeds, following the track which led through the midst of it, when we were confronted by a rhinoceros. In appearance it is a black animal with a huge body and a disproportionately large head. For this reason it has become the subject of a proverb, as the saying goes Al-karkaddan ras bila badan (rhinoceros, head and no torso). It is smaller than an elephant but its head in many times larger than an elephants. It has a single horn between its eyes, about three cubits in length and about a span in breadth. When it came out against us one of the horsemen got in its way; it struck the horse which he was riding with its horn, pierced his thigh and knocked him down, then went back into thicket and we could not get at it. I saw a rhinoceros a second time on this road after the hour of afternoon prayer. It was feeding on plants but when approached it, it ran away. I saw a rhinoceros yet another time when in the company of the king of India we had entered a jungle of reeds. The sultan was mounted on an elephant and we too were mounted on elephants along with him. The foot-soldiers and horsemen went in and beat it up, killed it and conveyed its head to the camp.

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Ibne Batuta again gives description of a beautiful city called Junani which is situated in present Warah Taluka. He writes, After two days march from (the crossing of) the river of Sind we reached the town of Janani, a large and fine town on the bank of the river Sind. It has beautiful bazzars and has been inhabited from ancient times by a people called the Samira, whose ancestors established themselves there on the conquest of Sind in the time of Al-Hajjaj (712 A.D), as the chroniclers of the conquest of Sind have noted.The Shaikh, the learned Imam, the ascetic doer of the law, and devout Rukn-Al-Din , son c of, the Shaikh , the devout and ascetic Imam Baha-Al-Din Zakariya, the Qurashite( he was one of the three whom the Shaikh and virtuous saint Burhan Al-Din the lame told me in the city of Alexandria that I should meet them, God be praised), told me that his earliest ancestor was called Muhammd Ibn Qasim the Qurashite, and he took part in the conquest of Sind in the army which Al-Hajjaj Ibn Yusuf dispatched for that purpose during his governorship in Al-Iraq and settled there and founded a numerous family.These people called Samira never eat with anyone nor may marry anyone outside their clan, nor do they allow anyone to marry into it. They had at this time an Amircalled Wunar whose history we shall relate in due course. From Janani we travelled to Siwasitan (Sehwan), a large town, outside which is a sandy desert, treeless except for Acacias. Nothing is grown on the river here expcept Pumpkins, and the food of the inhabitants consists of Sorghum and Peas, of which they make bread. There is a plentiful supply of fish and buffalo milk, and they eat also a kind of small lizard stuffed with curcuma. (Ibne Battuta: Travels in Asia & Africa 1325-1354; first published 1929, Reprinted in Great Britain by Redwood Burn Ltd. 1983)

In 1955, M.H. Panhwar discovered the ruins of Ibne Batutas Janani settlement in Taluka Warah, Deh Junani at Junani Inspection Bungalow, constructed by Sindh Public Works Department (PWD) in 19th century. Before advert of automobile, this vast bungalow had stables for horses. It was built on a high mound of ruins and appears 3 to 4 feet high from surrounding land, which had risen by 3 to 4 feet. From Junani, Ibne Batuta travelled down to Sehwan. He does not mention if he travelled by road or by boat and whether he passed through Manchhar Lake. Currently, Junani is known for its Islamic School, beautiful Mosque and old Library containing thousands of Arabic, Persian & Sindhi manuscripts and rare books. Junani is situated 3 miles in the west of Warah on Warah-Hamal road. Another important River Indus course was of Sirwah. It started from Bolan River in the south of Sibi and finally reached Manchhar Lake near Sehwan. Amini-ul-Mulk Nawab Mir Muhammad Masoom Bakhri, the Amir of Mughal Emperor Akber the Great (1542-1605) has given details of this course in his Persian Account Tareekh-e-Masoomi in 1600 A.D. According to Yousif Merak Bin Mir Abu-al-Qasim Namkeen the length of Sibi/ Bolan River was 50 Miles and later it joined Sirwah on Sindh Border and finally its waters flowed down towards Manchhar Lake. (Tareekh-e-Mazhar Shah Jahani 1634 A.D). He also tells us about Mulla River, Cotton Plants grown in Sibi Area and the Poisonous Snakes found in that part of country. Main Shahal Muhammad Kalhoro (1657A.D) is said to have dug Ghar Wah from River Indus near Larkana to irrigate lands of this area. It is supposed that Junnani was protected by the wall. SAREMAN FORT Sariman Khan Chandio (died 1527 AD) was chief of Chandio tribe in the days of Samma Rulers of Sindh. He fought many battles against Arghoon invaders. He built a fort in the east of Hamal Village on the banks of Kachhri Lake in Warah Taluka. There are two graves which belong to Hyder and Mazo, the son and daughter of Sariman Khan Chandio. The ruins of Lila, Chanesar and Kaunroo are located 1 Km in the north of Sariman Chandio graveyard under Khirthar foothills. Other remains of a city called Lihor, related to Lila Chanesar are found near Dost Ali, on the banks of Attan Lake, in the south of Shahdadkot. The old remains of Badam or Channa fort are also found in Warah. Kot Sariman has decayed by the passage of time.Yousif Merak mentioned Sariman Chandio in 1634 AD.

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JUNANI-1894-95

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GHAIBIDERO FORT

Seal of Nawab Sir Ghaibi Khan Chandio

According to Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro; a P.hd Scholar, Sardar Sreman Chandio laid the foundation of Chandka/Chandia Jagir in 1501. This Jagir was bestowed upon him by Jam Nizamuddin Samo alias Jam Nindo (1439-1509), the famous Sultan of Samma Dynasty of Sindh, which ruled in Sindh, some parts of Punjab and Balochistan (region) from 1351-1551. The Chandka Jagir was given, in return of his military services provided by Sardar Sreman Chandio and his tribesmen against the Arghuns who were frequently invading Western Sindh. This chief flourished himself at Ghaibidero Jagir in taluka Kamber district Kamber Shahdadkot, Sindh and died in A.D 1527. The Chandka Jagir bestowed upon him is said to be 9, 99,999 Acres of land. He was considered a cultural hero in the tribal history of Sindh. Narrating the story of Sariman Chandio, Salman Rashid says, Long ago there lived a man called Sreman of the tribe of Chandio who ruled over this land. He was a great leader and administrator who established the first Chandio jagir (fief) that comprised of nine hundred thousand acres. Hafiz Wali Mohammed alias Ghaibi Khan was from his line as indeed are the present family of Nawabs. It was just before the time of Sreman that the predatory Afghans under a man called Zunnu Pathan descended on Sindh. Thirteen times, says Imdad Ali, they attacked the country and carried off immense plunder. Perhaps the figure is inspired by the seventeen raids against India by Mahmud Ghaznavi, but thirteen times Zunnu Pathan is said to have come and thirteen times the Chandios vainly tried to fight him off. Afraid that yet another attack would soon be on its way, the brave Sreman got his council together to devise a plan. The thing to do, it was decided, was to take the Pathans unawares; and not as they came down the northwestern gorges to raid, but in the safety of their own home. Accordingly, five hundred camels were made ready; each with two boxes each one large enough to hold one fighting man in battle gear. The men in the boxes were then liberally covered with musk and the convoy set off for the stronghold of Kandahar in the guise of a musk traders caravan. At the first border checkpoint, the officer in order to verify the contents ran his dagger through a slit in the crate on the lead camel. The dagger pierced the arm of Sreman, who without a sound quickly wiped off the blood with a musk scented kerchief. The fragrance of musk was heavy on the dagger as it came out of the box and the caravan was allowed to pass. And so it was at the next checkpoint and the next until the caravan arrived outside the gates of Kandahar. The sun was setting and it was the hour before the gates would be shut for the night when the caravan was permitted to enter. And so it was that as the Pathans slept within the safety of their homes, one thousand fully accoutered Chandio warriors erupted from the secrecy of their musk-scented wooden boxes. Stealthily they crept through the deserted streets of the town, stealing from house to house cutting up every able-bodied man they came across. The massacre was so great as to avenge all the plundering raids that Zunnu Pathan had ever mounted against the land of Sindh. In the slaughter Zunnu himself was slain and the Chandios made off with much plunder and no loss of life on their own side. The honour of Sindh had finally been redeemed. It is a fanciful story, not recorded either in the annals of Kandahar or elsewhere but in the hearts of a few Chandios. To them it has been transmitted by word of mouth. The question, then, is: who was Zunnu Pathan? The name of Zunnun Beg Arghun, a direct descendent of Chengiz Khan features in the annals of Kandahar where he was appointed the governor by Sultan Hussain Mirza, the overlord of Badakhshan. He spread the authority of Kandahar by taking Quetta and Mastung in 1480 and mounted raids on the dependencies of these two places. Although such a raid is not recorded, but surely at that time, the Arghuns would have come against the outlying cities of Sindh as well. Perhaps the superior power of the Mongols had humbled the Chandios. Subsequently the Arghun, having sided with the rebellious son of Sultan Hussain Mirza, fell out of favour and when the northern Uzbeks came down against him he found no recourse. In a battle near Herat in the year 1507 Zunnun Beg Arghun was killed by the Uzbeks not by the Chandios in the safety of his home as the legend relates. Surely the Chandios, smarting under the humiliation of the raid, would have considered the murder of the Arghun. To settle the account they might even have prepared for the next raid; but it never came. Instead the news of Zunnun Begs death would have cheated the Chandios of their only chance of redeeming their honour. Therefore even if the Chandios did indeed embark upon such an enterprise, it is very likely that, having heard of the demise of the Arghun, they abandoned it before reaching Kandahar. But because the birth of romantic tales disregards actual fact and history, the fiction continued on to the fruition of the expedition in the Arghun stronghold. Thereafter it was the natural accretion from the passage of years that the handful of Chandio warriors who may have said Aye to Sremans call magnified to a full one thousand men. Of course there is the greater likelihood that the story of this great expedition is simply fable.

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The genealogy of the Nawab family gives no dates, but the graveyard outside Ghaibi Dero records the dates of death of three chiefs in the last century. Going back from them, it seems that Sreman would have lived around the end of the 15th century. Moreover, the mass graves are built of the large kiln fired tile that was in use in Sindh from very early times until the end of the 16th century when the Moguls introduced the smaller brick. Perhaps these are the dead of the Mongols plundering raids under Zunnun Arghun. Sreman, the founder of the Chandio Jagir, then was the one who possessed the audacity to plan an expedition to spirit himself beyond the walls of his enemys stronghold and kill as he pleased in order to avenge the havoc wrecked on the land of Sindh. Even if that never happened, that is the glorious light his descendents prefer to see him in.

Satellite Image of Ghaibidero and its fort remains surrounded by a large ditch

Sardar Sreman Chandio had two sons; Haji Wariyal Khan- II and Husan Khan. Mirzani and Husnani clans of Chandio tribe are called after their names. Sardar Wariyal Khan-II survived till 1586 and left behind Sardar Mirza Khan II (d. 1591) as Chief of Chandio tribe. At the time of Conquest of Sindh by Mirza Abdul Rahim Khan-e- Khanan Sardar Mirza Khan II was leading the country. He had a son called Sardar Data Khan-I (d.1593) . He was succeeded by his son named Sardar Ishaque Khan-III (d. 1595). This noble chief had a son who came to be known as Sardar Adam Khan-II (d. 1600). God blessed him with a son called Sardar Moulvi Hafiz Wali Muhammad alias Malak Ghaibi Khan Chandio-I (1615-1699). It is said that Mian Shahal Muhammad Kalhoro blessed him and bestowed upon him the titles of Ghaibi and Malak. After this the seat of Chandio tribe was called as Ghaibidero. He was, they say, a man of great piety, humility and love for his fellow man. No traveler, rich or destitute, ever went by his door without partaking of whatever fare the good man could offer. One day, so the story goes, travelers arrived at his door seeking to be fed. Hafiz Wali Mohammed asked his wife to prepare for them, but unbeknownst to him, there was no food in the house. Nevertheless, even before the wife could tell him of their own want, foodstuff miraculously appeared in the kitchen. Now, since the victuals had come through divine (Ghaib) intervention, so was Wali Mohammed to be known henceforth as Ghaibi Khan. From then on, too, there was never a fire to be burnt in the village of Ghaibi Dero for Nawab Ghaibi Khan established the tradition of feeding every single mouth in the village. Sardar Moulvi Hafiz Wali Muhammad alias Malak Ghaibi Khan Chandio-I, had a son Mir Sardar Khan-I(d. 1780), who led the tribe with bravery and courage. He had a son called Nawab Wali Muhammad, the Bald.

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Nawab Wali Muhammad Chandio was born in 1776 and died in 1849. Lieutenant Robert Leech in his Report on Sindhian Army (1837) writes regarding Chandio tribe and its divisions that, The Chandyas are under Wullee Mahomed, he resides at Ghibee Sultan and commands 10,000 men. The Chandyas are divided into Gibyanees, Bhandas, Sarejas, Ajwanees, Sakhanees, Khashas, and Bagaees, the Ameers are assisted by 8000 men. In this cast was a Maghsee, who about a year ago killed Rindh who sent a messenger to the Chandyas, saying that they were going to war with Maghsees and deprecated the Chandyas, assisting their enemies; the Maghsees secretly sent one of their principal men to the Chandyas, seeking for protection which was as secretly granted, and when the battle commenced the Chandyas came in, and decided the day in favour of the Maghsees, and 120 men of the Rinds were killed. Captain Charles Masson describes Nawab Wali Muhammad Khan Chandio in his Narrative of Various Journeys in Balochistan, Afghanistan, Punjab& Kalat (London 1842). After crossing through Mulla River, Pir Lakho, Jhal Magsi, Sannatar, Tunia,Kichi and Shadihar, he writes that, Next day, clearing the grove of bers and mimosas before noted, we traversed occasionally much stony ground, broken by the ravines and the beds of hill-torrents. We were now crossing the western extremity of the level desert track, known as the Shikarpur Pat, and of notoriety for the numberless depredations and murders committed on it by the predatory bands of Baloches. Our Kafila moved under some apprehension, as it was known that the Rinds on the frontiers of Sind had collected a large body of horse for the foray in Kachi; but its destination was kept a secret. The latter part of our march led under low eminences beneath the superior range; and on one of these was the tomb of Haji Marri. Our situation here was pleasant; but during the day the minds of our party were ill at ease, it being a spot likely to be visited by the Rinds, in case they moved in direction. The Pat being destitute of water and forage, the predatory bands in their excursions are compelled to make sudden dashes at the usual places where Kafilas halt, and not finding them, they as precipitately shift their quarters. In like manner, in their inroads Kachi, they move swiftly on the place selected for plunder, and successful or otherwise, retire with equal celerity. As evening drew near, my friend Khalikdad, who throughout the day had sought many falls in his Hafiz, re-covered his serenity of mind. He observed, that the danger was now past, the object of the Rinds in attacking Kafilas being to carry off the cattle, which they drive away when feeding in the jungle. Moreover, he felt secure, that if they arrived here on the morrow, it would not be until many hours after he had left the ground, as these robbers always march by the day. Water was at some distance, from springs among the low hills to the west. About a mile to the north-east of our position was a large heap of stones, said to be the boundary-mark between the territories of Kalat and Sind; near it were two obelisks, said to be also limitary monuments. Deer abounded in these parts, and the wild ass is reported to be some time seen on the Pat. A plant called machulik, bearing yellow flowers, and having a succulent root, was common under the low jungle bushes. The same is found in the neighbourhood of Liya and Bakkar, west to the Indus, and the root employed as a horse-medicine.(Pages 128-129) Describing Ghaibidero and its fort Charles Masson writes, Our next march led over a level naked surface until within three miles of the town of Dera Ghaibi, when commenced a vigorous cultivation of juar, to the east occasionally intermixed with patches of dense jungle. To the west the country was open to the foot of the inferior hills, distant perhaps three miles. The superior range was not nearer than eight to ten miles. Dera Ghaibi comprises a few mud houses, chiefly the dwellings of Hindus, and a large number of huts, and is the frontier town of Sind, in this direction. Here resides Wali Mahomed, the chief of the Chandi tribe of Baloches, who can raise, as is given out, twelve thousand men. The district, of which this town is the capital, is called Chandia, and is held in jaghir by this leader and his followers. It is to this tribe that the present Talpuri chiefs, or Amirs of Sind, are principally indebted for the authority they now possess. Haji Bijar, the father of the four brothers, Fati Ali, Ghulam Ali, Mir Karam Ali, and Morad Ali, who first shook the power of the Kalorah rulers, after a pilgrimage to Mecca, repaired to Nassir Khan of Kalat, and strove to engage him in his designs of overthrowing the Kalorahs. The Baloch chieftain at the first inclined favourably to Haji Bijars views, but on the offer by Kalorah chief of a large sum of money for delievery into his hands of the factious Haji, he was about sacrificing his honour to his profit. Haji Bijar, informed thereof, fled to Ghaibi, father of present Wali Mahomed, and then chief of the Chandi tribe. Ghaibi took up his cause, and by his assistance Haji Bijar became master of Sind, with the nominal title of Vazir, much in the same manner as Fati Khan placed himself over the indolent Shah Mahmud in Afghanistan. The present chief of Sind have always shown a great mistrust of the Chandi tribe, and lose no occasion to weaken and divide it. It is an old and true saying, that a fool kicks away the ladder by which he rises, and the Chandi chiefs, with unpardonable simplicity, expected from the prince in power the condescension shown by the fugitive Haji. During the early part of the Talpur sway, when there was dread of

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Afghans, necessity dictated liberality, and the Chandi chiefs, as those of other tribes, were in receipt of large sums of money from the government. When the Sindi rulers ceased to fear from the Afghans, owing to their intestine commotions, and from the Baloches, owing to feeble sway of the successors of Nassir Khan, they discontinued their largeness. The Chandi resources were now limited to the scanty returns from a sterile tract on the north-western frontier, and their chief was embarrassed to meet his expenses. Latterly, how-ever, the inundations of the Indus have increased westernly, or a greater portion of its waters have been directed into the canals and branches from it. From which Dera Ghaibi has derived benefit. Still, the chief is sorely dissatisfied, and would, possibly, join any invader of Sind that might appear, excepting , perhaps, Ranjit Singh. Wali Mahomed is personally brave, and in the several military expeditions he has made, has been uniformly successful. He has defeated the Magghassis of Jell, the father of whose present chief, Ahmed Khan, was slain in a battle with Chandis; he has been victorious over the Marris, whom he pursued into their hills; and over Kaidranis, whom he signally discomfited in their own country. He is now hostile to the Rinds, and in alliance with the Magghassis. Ahmed Khan, their chief, when a youth, and some years ago, after a severe defeat by the former tribe, took horse and rode to the house of Wali Mahomed at Dera Ghaibi. He told him, that he came personally to absolve him from his fathers blood, and to crave his assistance, that the tribe of Magghassis might not be exterminated. Wali Mahomed hastened with his troops, and checked the Rinds in their career of devastation. We afterwards learned that they had made some booty, and had killed three or four individuals. Wali Mahomed sent to Wali Mahomed Ligari of Larkhana, who is called the Vazir of Sind, and has charge of the state interests on the northern frontier, for permission to march, as an ally of the Magghassis, and to intercept the Rinds on their return. The Vazir withheld his sanction, and bestowed many opprobrious epithets on the Chandi chief. He declared that if he marched he should never set his foot again in Sind. Charles Masson again says, Near Dera Ghaibi is branch , or rather canal from the Indus, which flows southerly to Jui, and falls into the Nari, an arm of the great river, a little before its junction with lake Manchur. Wali Mahomed is partial to Afghans, and never exacts duty from their Kafilas, while rigidly enforcing it from Brahuis and Hindus. He was not at Dera while we halted there, but Khalikdad sent a due offering of raisins to his family. The chief is now aged, and is represented to be a zalim, which may mean tyrannical or oppressive, or merely that he governs his tribe with a strong hand.(Pages 129- 132). Captain Charles Masson journeyed through Sindh four times in the period covering between 1827 to 1831, and his observations each time are more interesting. Telling the story of Sardar Sher Muhammad Rind and Sardar Ahmed Khan Magsi in the Battle of Bungah, Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro says, Troops of both Sardars met at Panjuk, in present Jhal Magsi district and fought like hell. The battle continued for several hours in which many from both the sides were killed. During the battle, Mir Sher Mohammad Khan Rind was killed. When news of his death spread, his tribesmen lost hope of winning and began to retreat. Accordingly, the Magsis with support of Chandia won the war. Chandia tribe was under the command of Tillo Khan Chandio, while at least 65 tribes including Jamalis, Luhars, Burdis, Jakhrani, Lashari, Rinds, Jagirani, Leghari, Nuhani and others were under the command of Sardar Sher Mohammad Khan. However, the Umranis did not support Sardar Sher Mohammad Rind and did not take part in the battle. Sardars of those tribes who had sent their tribesmen in the support of Mir Sher Mohammad Khan made the Umranis responsible for their defeat saying that had Umranis supported; they would not have lost the battle. The graves of those who died at the Battle of Bangah are scattered in Sindh and Balochistan. The graves of Rinds and Burdis are located in Shoran. Magsis are buried near Jhal Magsi, and the graves of Chandia are located in and around Gebi Dero, Larkana. While the graves of Jamalis exist in different areas of Sindh and Balochistan Mir Sher Muhammad Rind was father in law of Mir Noor Muhammad Khan Talpur, the ruler of Sindh. According to H.T. Lambrick (1952) Nawab Wali Muahmmad Chandio joined Sir Charles Napier in the Campaign against the Bugti and other tribes in 1844-45. Sir Charles Napier moved against them with a force of 7000 of all arms, besides a number of Murree , Chandio and Magsi auxiliaries, but only about 3500Bugti seem to have opposed. The campaign lasted fifty-five days, with little loss. The defeated Jakhranis and Dombkis were settled at Janidero fort near Jacobabad while the Bugti Chiefs along with their 2000 followers were settled on lands near Jhukar Jo Daro situated beside Biro Chandio, Larkana. Major P Goldney, Collector and Magistrate of Shikarpur writes in his Report Chiefs and Persons of Importance Residing in the Shikarpur Coolectorate, submitted to Government on 31st December 1847 that, Wulee Mahomed, Chandia, of Gybee Dhera, thirty miles west of Larkahna; has two sons. Hold the Chandia country, an arid tract west of Larkhana; was rated at 10,000 to 12,000 fighting men, and was a chief of great power among his clan under the Meers. Has also 2,000 acres in Aliwal, arid land. In 1842-43 Meer Ali Moorad attacked and seized him, but he was restored to his Jageers by Sir Charles Napier. He is an old man of some sixty-five or seventy. (Page 691) After Nawab Wali Muhammad Khan

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Chandio his son Sardar Mir Ishaque Khan Chandio (d. 1867) became the chief of the Chandio tribe. He was succeeded by Sardar Mir Data Khan II (d. 1876). After him, Sardar Mir Muhammad Khan I (died 1893) became the chief of the Ghaibidero Jagir. He was blessed with a son called Sardar Ali Nawaz alias Ghaibi Khan Chandio (1872-1954). After his death Sardar Ishaque alias Ghaibi Khan-IV (d. 1967) became chief. He was succeeded by Nawab Ahmed Sultan Khan Chandio (1934-2000). He had 9 sons from whom Nawab Shabir Ahmed Khan Chandio was selected as Chief of Chandio tribe. After his death in 2009, Sardar Ahmed has become the 36th Nawab of the Chandio tribe. 4 Km to the northwest of village Ghaibi Dero, a group of domed buildings rises above the scrub and tamarisk-covered sand dunes. This is the family graveyard of the Nawab family of Chandio tribe All the buildings have plain exteriors while the interiors are painted with colorful frescoes of curving vines and bright flowers. There are also depictions of hunting and social scenes. ADAM SHAH KALHORO FORT According to H.A.Roses A Glossary of the Tribes and Casts of the Punjab and North West Frontier Province: L-Z, Volume 3, 1997, Mian Adam Shah Kalhoro with 3,000 men of his own tribe had marched down to Hyderabad Area in Sindh from Aleppo owing chiefly to dissensions among his brothers. (Page 382). Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro tells that It is said that after some time he moved upwards in the neighborhood of present Larkana area. Mian Adam Shah Kalhoro established his first Daira, a religious settlement, in a small village named Haitri, which is now known as Haitri Ghulam Shah, in Dokri taluka of Larkana district. He started his career from this small village with the support of the Abra tribe who remained a powerful force behind him. A man, Khabar Abro, was the first person to enroll as his follower. This small village became the centre for learning for the Mehdvis. A lot of other people flocked to the village to seek his blessings. With the passage of time, the Daira of Mian Adam Shah Kalhoro received a number of disciples who popularized the teachings of Syed Mohammad Jaunpuri. Due to his teachings, the Mehdvi thought and ideology, and the name of Mian Adam, spread to far-flung areas. Even Abdul Reheem Khan-e- Khanan, the soldier of Akbar the great who had captured Bukhar, on hearing his name paid him a visit. When he met him, he was hugely influenced by him, and granted him the Chandka Parguna, which now comprises the Larkana district. Very soon Mian Adam Shah Kalhoro built a fort and started training Mianwal soldiers from his seat. Mirza Abdul Rahim Khan-e-Khanan bestowed a Jagir to Mian Adam Shah Kalhoro in Chandookah /Larkana Purgannah for his valuable services during this military campaign. After some time Mian Adam Shah Kalhoro went over to Multan, to pay a visit to Makhdoom Lal Esan Qureshi the celebrated living saint of the time, and a descendent of Sheikh Bahuddn Zakariya Multani. A large number of disciples joined him here and he was obliged to occupy a spacious tract of country. The movement under his governorship consolidated its position in the greater part of north-western Sindh. This excited the jealousy of the landowners of the place, at whose instigation the Nawab of Bakkar and Governor of Multan had him killed and thus he became a martyr. In this way Mian Adam Shah Kalhoro was killed as a rebel in 1600 and was buried on a rock near Sukkur Sindh. Mian Adam Shah Kalhoro had two sons namely 1) Mian Daud Kalhoro and 2) Mian Ibrahim Kalhoro. Agha Shah Muhammad Kotwal and his disciples selected Mian Daud Kalhoro as their new leader. Suleman Faqir Khoso of Shahdadkot was very close to Mian Adam Shah Kalhoro because of his righteousness. The descendents of Suleman Faqir Khoso are known as Sulemani Khosas and they speak Siraiki language. Mian Daud Kalhoro extended his power and authorities in Hatri village near Larkana. He left 2 sons behind him Mian Ilyas Muhammad Kalhoro and Mian Shah Ali alias Mian Shahal Muhammad Kalhoro. Mian Ilyas Muhammad Kalhoro brought new agricultural lands in his custody and increased disciples number. He died in 1620 in a small village of Mujawar in taluka Dokri District Larkana. Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro built a beautiful tomb on his grave in 1188 A.H/ 1774 A.D which is in ruins now. After the death of Mian Ilyas Muhammad Kalhoro all disciples made Mian Shahal Muhammad Kalhoro as their new spiritual guide and governor of the area. Mian Shahul Muhammad Kalhoro took over the lands of Abro and Sangi tribes and in retaliation killed in uprising by Nawab Sheikh Ahmed Bakhri in 1657. Local tradition says that his body is buried without head, which his adversaries Abras and Sangis took away with them-selves and sent it to Lahore and thence towards Delhi Court. The shrine of Mian Shahal Muhammad Kalhoro is situated on a high mound 8 Km in the north-east of Kamber. The tomb was also constructed by Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro in 1188 A.H/1774 A.D. Mian Chakar Khuhawar ,Mondar Khan Chandio and Mian Lal Jhinjhan were his loyal soldiers and followers. Mian Shahal Muhammad Kalhoro dug Ghar Wah from Indus River and cultivated more lands in and around Larkana. According to M.H.Panhwar, it was one of the western branches of the Indus River and was remodeled by Abra tribesmen during Samma Rule and was known as Abro Wah. His annual Urs is celebrated every year in Kamber-Shahdadkot with high esteem. Mian Shahal Muhammad Kalhoro had a son Mian Shah Hassan Kalhoro who lies buried beside his grave in the same building. A local tradition says that Pir Jan Muhammad Kalhoro of Ratodero was his brother of Mian Shahal Muhammad Kalhoro. There are no signs of this fort today.

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MIAN SHAHAL MUHAMMAD KALHORO FORT According to Yousif Meraks Tareekh-e-Mazhar Shah Jahani (1634 AD) Mian Shahal Muhammad Kalhoro had founded a village Kotla in Chandookah District in Upper Sindh. The remains of this historic village & its fort were situated next to the Village Esaw Kalhoro located 7 Km in the north of Kamber. Mian Shahal Muhammad Kalhoro dug Ghar Wah from this location. He had also built a fort and increased his disciples. Mian Nasir Muhammad Kalhoro (1657-1692) also lived here. He nominated Esaw Khan Kalhoro as in charge of this area. He was killed during a battle in 1705 AD. Later on Mian Noor Muhammad Kalhoro dug a new canal after his name which was called Noor Wah. Mian Noor Muhammad Kalhoro came here many times and monitored the digging work of the canal. He also encouraged trade by setting up a ferry on the banks of Noor Wah at Wadha site which is in ruins now. People tell that Mian Noor Muhammad Kalhoro had also built a Kafila Sirai in village. Such buildings dont exist today. Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro also came here and took initiatives to promote trade and commerce at Esaw Kalhoro Ferry. He guarded the ferry by recruiting Kalhora soldiers there. In 1820 AD, the villages of Eesan had Hoojree, the small district of Janee Duny, an island formed by the Naree, a branch of the main stream. (The London Encyclopedia: Vol XX, London 1829, Sinde, Page 400). After the battle with Shah Shoojah in 1833 AD, the Chandookah District was divided. Mir Sobdar Khan Son of Mir Fateh Ali Khan Talpur was given Kamber, Chilo, Esaw and Koor Dato areas. In 1847, Esaw Kalhoro was a considerable village and ferry which started declining from 1856, when Railway was introduced in the country. The village has not recovered after 1938. It is assumed that the fort built by Mian Shahal Muhammad Kalhoro was destroyed by Mughal Army after his martyrdom in 1657.
Shrine of Mian Shahal Muhammad Kalhoro on the banks of Ghar Wah-Kamber

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LARKANA FORT Larkana (1901) is the s the 4th largest city in the north-western part of Sindh Province, Pakistan. In August 2001 Larkana celebrated its hundred years of existence. It is located on the south bank of the Ghar canal, 40 miles south of Shikarpur town, and 36 miles north-east of Mehar. The old name of this district is Chandka or Chandookah, so called from the Chandio tribe who formerly occupied a greater part of it. The extreme length of Chandka Purgannah was 60 miles, and its average breadth was 35 miles in December 1846. It was divided in 19 minor divisions or Tapas, varying in size, to each of which a separate establishment was formerly appointed. The total number of villages was 392 in the year 1846. Lieutenant Robert Leech of Bombay Engineers in his Report on the Sindhian, Khelat and Daoodpota Armies (1837) describing Larkana fort writes, The headquarters of the Artillery of the four Hyderabad Ameers, Meer Noor Muhammad, Meer Naseer Khan, Meer Mahomed and Meer Sobdar, are at Ladhkana. There are in all 28 guns said to be ready for field service, 13 commanded by an Armenian of the name of Moosa Khan on 200 Rupees pay, 7 by a European of the name J.Howell, called by the natives Chotha Khan, on the same pay, and 7 by a Hindustany Salabat Khan; there is 1 gun on the fort, and 1 mortar, although no one in the department knows the mixture necessary or the method of cutting the fuse. The Chotha Khan confesses that the Artillery is incapable of moving to any distance, there is no regular establishment of bullocks, but in time of service they are all pressed, and the villagers of course do not give up their best bullocks. (Page 65) Detail of Moosa Khans Guns: No.1-Gun metal, 4 inches bore, 9 pounder, No. 2-Gun metal, 4 inches bore, 9 pounder; Drawn by eight pairs of bullocks and carrying a charge of 2 seers. Ten of the remainder are of iron and one of brass. No.3-Iron, 3 inches bore, 4 pounds, No.4-Iron, 3 inches bore, 4 pounds. The rest are all of 2 inches and 1 2/4 seers. Detail of Guns under Chotha Khan: they are all of Iron. One 3 inches in bore, the others all 2 inches. Detail of Guns under Salabat Khan: two guns of gun metal, one of them 5 inches in bore, 18 pounder, the other 4 inches. The other five are of Iron of small bores, of 2 and 3 inches. The gun on the fort is not mounted, it is of iron of 4 inches bore, the gurbee is of 20 inches bore, there is little superintendence on the part of Government over this department so important in European warfare. Rupees 800 were allowed by the Ameers at the time of the expected Sikh invasion to mount the guns, this sum was shared it is said by the Commandant of Artillery and the Baloch General, and the old carriages were patched up for 700 Rupees-no powder is allowed by the Ameers for practice, and the guns are only fired when the new moon is seen-the powder is made at Bhaug where there is a Sulpher mine, the composition is 2 parts of charcoal made from the akh-1 part of Sulpher-1 ditto salptre. There are 40 Hindoostany men under Moosa Khan and 40 under Chotha Khan; these men have seven rupees a month. Salabat Khan does not keep up the establishment for which he draws allowances; there is only one man in Sind, now in Hyderabad, of the name of Meer Khan, who can cast guns, the balls are cast in Shikarpoor. There are no carpenters who can make up carriages unless under special direction. There are three guns belonging to Meer Rustam of Khyrpoor, which his Vizier has planted before his door, they are of three inches in bore. In Hyderabad there were seven small guns opposite Meer Khusros door on carriages. (Page 66) The Sindhis have a proverb: "If you have money, go for a joy-ride to Larkana." According to Lieutenant Hugh James (December 1846 A.D), the Deputy Collector of Larkana, The old fort of Larkana is a large square building, with four towers; a fifth tower, at the gateway, is of burnt brick, and higher than the others; the rest of the building is of mud. This was one of the arsenals of Talpoors, and now contains the fine hospital and the store room of the Camel Corpse, and the Civil Jail. It was the residence of the celebrated minister Futteh Mahomed Lugaree. (Lieutenant Hugh Jamess Report on the Purguna of Chandookah: December 1847, in Bombay Government Selections, No.XVII, New Series, Part II, PP.709-74). Alexander Burnes in his Book Travels into Bukhara, Being the Account of a Journey from India to Cabool, Tartary, and Persia, also Narrative of a Voyage on the Indus from the Sea to Lahore, 1831-1832 and 1833, Vol: III, London 1834 AD writes that, Larkhanu, which stands on the western bank, is the capital of the Pergunna of Chandkoh: It has about 10,000 people, and is the head quarters and rallying point of the Sinde Ameers on their N.W. Frontier. It has a small mud fort; and an inefficient train of artillery, about twenty in number, frightens the refractory in the neighboring mountains, and maintains the peace of Sinde. It is governed by a Nuwab, the

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indivisual next in rank to the rulers of the land.(Page 273) The Imperial Gazetteer of India by Sir William Wilson Hunter, India, 1881, Page 50 says that, The chief towns are Larkana (the headquarters), Rato Dero, and Kambar. Among the few antiquities of Ldrkana, the principal are the old fort in Larkana town, the tomb of Shahal Muhammad Kalhora.
Shah Baharo, the Governor of Larkana

MIAN DATO KHUHAWR FORT Describing Mian Dato Khuhawar, Lieutenant Hugh JamesNear Shahdadpoor there is a pair of large millstones in a garden, about 4 feet in diameter. It is on the banks of the Datah Canal, so called from Datah Kohawur, a man as renowned for his wealth, and the canals dug by him, as for his unbounded liberality,-he was the Hatim Taee of Chandookah. It is related of him that no poor man passed his door unfed, and the above millstones are now considered sacred, for we are told that God was so pleased with his piety and liberality, that even a handful of grain was thrown in, the supply would flour was equal to all demands. They are approached with bare feet, and the precincts kept in cleanliness and good order. (Lieutenant Hugh Jamess Report on the Purguna of Chandookah: December 1847, in Bombay Government Selections, No.XVII, New Series, Part II, Page726). Mian Dato Khuhawar served as minister of Mian Yar Muhammad Kalhoro (1701-1719). He got excavated a canal which is named after him as Koor Dato which was taken out from Ghar Wah, Its length was 42000 yards. This canal still irrigates lands in Kamber & Miro Khan talukas of present Kamber Shahdadkot districts. Mian Dato Khuhawar had two sons; 1) Mian Punhoon Khuhawar and 2) Muhammad Pariyal Khuhawar. Mian Punhoon Khuhawar dug Punhoon Wah from Koor Dato in the north of village Jandeh near Shahdadkot. The grave of Mian Dato Khuhawar is located inside the courtyard of Mian Yar Muhammad Kalhoros tomb in Khudabad, district Dadu Sindh. His descendents live in Shahdadkot, Karira, Kot Ali Nawaz Khuhawar and Golo Wah. Mian Dato Khuhawar built a fort for his residence on Koor Dato banks. The fort was spread on 7 Jarebs of land. Its remains can be seen near Sarang Khuhawar.

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KOT GHULAM SHAH FORT According to Mir Ali Sher Qani of Thatta (1727-1788 AD) Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro gave orders to build a small fort in the vicinity of Larkana to control any future uprising in the area. (Tuhfat-ul-Karam: Mir Ali Sher Qani Thatvi, Published by Sindhi Adabi Board Jamshoro/ Hyderabad Sindh, 1989, Pages 278 & 279). He further mentions that Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro attacked and killed a large number of fleeing Khosa tribesmen in the forts of Joya and Tulli (Thull). A Thull or Tower constructed by Burnt bricks can be seen in village Dhing 13 kilometers in north east of Shahdadkot. This village belongs to Sardar Muqeem Khan Khosa, chief of Khosas in Sindh. The red graves these Khosas still located in the village Joya Deh Dhori Mubarak Taluka Miro Khan. The aim of constructing this fort was to keep open a communication through this wild country, and safeguard the borders of Sindh in north. In the words of Sir Richard Burton, the Forts formed at once the place of defense, the treasury, and the residence of the native rulers. On the Royal orders of Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro planning for building a mud fort was executed by the experts of Kalhora Army. The renowned ministers and generals of Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro were Mir Bahram Talpur, Allah Bux Jhinjhan, Raja Leekhi, Jam Feroze, Muhammad Hassan Khuhawar, Farid Samtio, Sadhari Othewal, Roohal Joyo, Hassan Lakho, and Roohal Khoso. Mirza Ahmed Khurasani was a celebrated commander who constructed Hyderabad Fort later. Diwan Gidu Mal, Diwan Chela Ram Sewistani, Diwan Ghansha Ram were associated with finance while Mirza Foulad was head of stables and Munawar and Dil Afzone were his famous courtiers. Mangan, and Metla tribes also settled in Kamber area during the reign of Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro. According to oral traditions, Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro deputed Nawab Mitha Khan Kalhoro, the Governor of Larkana, the task who landed from a boat at Koor Dato and started the construction work on the selected site. He set up a camp for his crew and labor. The fort as well as the camp came to be known as Kot Ghulam Shah. General John Jacob (1812-1858) has given description of Nawab Mitha Khan Kalhoro in his book The Sindh Irregular Horse on pages 234. Mitha Khan Kalhoro would visit Kot Ghulam Shah from time to time to supervise and would stay at Kot Ghulam Shah. This fort was founded on Larkana, Kamber and Shikarpur route. This route was famous for trade and commerce. The famous ferry of Esaw Kalhoro situated in the south of this fort on the banks of Noor Wah, which was dug by Mian Noor Muhammad Kalhoro. In first, the Sheikh community was deployed to cut Jungle and reeds grown on the edges of high mounds of sand. These community men took active part in the work of Koor Dato clearance as they were expert in cutting reeds and grass grown on the irrigational channels. They had scattered habitations in Larkana, Kamber, Shahdadkot and Miro Khan areas and were engaged in labour. They were associated with hunting and cutting jungles grown on Indus River natural canals. As Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro had supported the Sheikh Community hence they loved this king with great respect and esteem. The length of fort is71.628 meters (235 feet) from north to south while its width is 60.96 meters (200 feet) from east to west. In this way the total area of this historic fort becomes 132.588 meters or 4366.3 square meters or 47000 square feet (SFT). In other words we can say this fort is spread on 1 acre 10 wesa and 16 feet. There are 43560 feet in 1 acre of land. The fort is surrounded by a man made pond which was fed by Koor Dato Canal on eastern side. Actually it was used as reservoir or storage of water. The fort building was constructed with mud and clay which was taken out from a ditch situated on the north of this site. This ditch later took the shape of a small lake which is said to be 7 feet deep. Its said that once a horseman drowned with his horse and nothing was recovered from this lake. The fort has 4 towers at four corners. Each of the towers has 60 feet diameter. The fort was protected with a main gate on the eastern side. The walls are 14 feet wide in the base while their height was 25 feet from ground level. Now only 15 feet high walls are standing at the site. It had 15 feet wide gate which was protected by a Mosque from front side. The remains of this old mosque were destroyed by the rainfall of 1990. Its size was 15X15X10. While its walls were 3 feet wide and were constructed from mud and clay. Now a jungle bush is standing on the Mosque location and a newly constructed cemented road leads into the middle of the fort. The historic grave of Mir Wali Dad Magsi is situated in the middle of the fort. Whole of the fort building stood on 30 feet high sand dune which has been disappeared from a long time. It seems that this fort was also used or artillery. People tell that the walls of this fort were so wide that a bullock cart could easily run on them.
Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro

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From engineering point of view it is imagined that 30 skilled and 70 non skilled persons including males and females of 20 families took actively part in the construction of this historical fort. It took 1095 days (including 303 Friday holidays), 36 months or 3 years to complete. The per day work was 1200 feet. If we count present day labour wages of an skilled mason with per day 750/- Rupees then we may say that 30 skilled masons earned 1, 66, 32000/- rupees within 792 days in 3 years. Similarly if we have a look on current market value with 350/- Rupees then we may say that 70 unskilled labour earned 1, 94, 0, 4000 Rupees within 792 days in 3 years. Now if we multiply both labour charges then the cost of the construction of this fort will be 3, 60, 36,000 Rupees. This is the cost of labour charges while expenses of construction are more than this amount. The renowned mason of that time was Ustad Shafi Muhammad Multani who late built the Hyderabad Fort under the guidance of Mirza Ahmed Khurasani in 1768 AD. The daily wages of skilled mason was 10 Paisas per day while non skilled labour could get 6 Paisas as daily charges of labour. Diwan Gidu Mal spent 2 boats full with coins on the construction of Hyderabad Fort. It seems that the construction work of this fort lasted for 3 years i.e. from 1760 to 1762 AD. In the same year the Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro again marched as far as Khanpur/Shikarpur in order to punish the Daudpotas, but at the intercession of the Syeds of Uch he pardoned them and returned without going further. One oral tradition tells that Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro came to visit this fort with army and elephants. According to the Erskine one of the elephants of Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro became mad on 2nd April 1764. It destroyed the English Camp situated in Shahpur , the Capital of Sindh . Round about 500 persons of King saved it from drowning in the Indus River. (Shah Abdul Latif of Bhit: H.T.Sorley, 1992, page 101). Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro had arrived at Shahpur on the 2nd of Rajjib 1177 A.H. (1764 A.D.) after his long and arduous campaign in the arid and dry region of Kathiawar. Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro had led his Sindhi forces and marched beyond the Thar Desert towards the Ran of Kuch in order to punish the Hindu Rajput raiders of the Kathiawar region. He took the fort of Sindhri and built the fort of Imamgarh on his way to the Kuch region, and on the heights of the mountain of Jarah, Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro and his Sindhi forces armed with gunpowder killed about 6000 zealous Hindu warriors. Continuing his victorious march he entered the massive Hindu fort of Bhuj, plundering the villages and towns in the vicinity of that Hindu stronghold. He took the sea-ports of Busta and Lakhpat. Mir Fateh Ali Khan Talpur, captured Kot Ghulam Shah in 1783 and used this fort for the protection of Chandookah District in Upper Sindh. He deployed soldiers of Talpur Army there. In south there was a moderate sized village Dost Ali. It was a place where Kaffillahs or Caravans assembled to cross the desert going to the northward. It was held by Naitch Tribe whose chief was Qadir Bux Naitch during 1770-1815 AD. The Chandio Tribe was commanded by Wali Muhammad Chandio who could lead an army of 10,000. Gadahee numbering 700 inhabited the country around Ghaibidero. 3000 Abra Soldiers under Ghualm Hyder Abro and Ali Mardan Abro were in the service of Talpur Rulers of Sindh. The Khokhars of Bahram occupied Bahram a moderate sized village with a good mud fort in the south west of Shahdadkot. Its inhabitants are reported as lawless and predatory. In 1839 AD they were engaged in plundering the Bengal Army when it was crossing from Larkana Dost Ali Bahram and Jhall Magsi towards Afghanistan. Magsis were stationed at Kot Ghulam Shah near Kamber under the Talpur Amirs of Sindh. Mir Fateh Ali Khan Talpur ruled from 1783 to 1802. Afterwards Mir Ghulam Ali Khan Talpur became ruler of Sindh and died in 1813. During the days of Mir Karam Ali Khan Talpur Ranjit Singh attacked Sindh . Munshi Atta Muhammad Shikarpuri ( 1785-1855) writes in his book entitled Tareekh-e-Taza Nawai Maarik (Persian) that , In 1821 Afghan King Shah Shuja came to Larkana for settling political issues with the Talpur Rulers of Sindh. Mir Karam Ali Khan Talpur, Mir Murad Ali Khan Talpur, Mir Sohrab Khan Talpur, Mir Rustam Khan Talpur and others rushed towards Larkana and thence proceeded to the Tomb of Mian Shahal Muhammad Kalhoro in Taluka Kamber. Nawab Wali Muhammad Khan Leghari, the Mukhtiarkar of Larkana District, Syed Kazim Shah and Diwan Khushi Ram were assigned to receive the exiled king of Afghanistan. Both of the parties stayed there for many days for negotiations. (Tareekh-e-Taza Nawai Maarik: Compiled by Munshi Atta Muhammad Shikarpuri, Published by Sindhi Adabi Board Jamshoro 2005, Pages 54, 55, & 58). The historic tomb of Mian Shahal Muhammad Kalhoro is only 8 Kilometers away from Kot Ghulam Shah. According to Munshi Atta Muhammad Shikarpuri the Amirs of Sindh had founded new Military posts on all roads to kill those who left Sardar Muhammad Azeem and wanted to join Shah Shuja forces. In this way many of the Afghan chiefs were killed by the Sindhian Army in North Sindh. After staying some days Shah Shuja was forced by the Amirs of Sindh to leave Larkana and cross Indus River to seek English Support from Ludhiana India. The Mirs left for Hyderabad and Khairpur. After a few days Sardar Muhammad Azeem Khan captured Shikarpur and collected tax from Sindh Amirs. Mir Karam Ali Khan Talpur died in 1829. Mir Murad Ali Talpur became new ruler of Sindh. He ruled from 1828 from 1833. After Mir Murad Ali Khan Talpur his eldest son Mir Noor Muhammad Talpur was

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selected as new ruler of Sindh. It was the same time when Nawab Wali Muhammad Khan Leghari passed away. Nawab Bahadur Khan Khokhar was appointed on his designation in the companionship of Samander Khan Barakzai. A fierce battle took place between Shah Shuja and Amirs of Sindh at Sukkur in 1833. After this defeat the Amirs of Hyderabad once again reached Larkana and proceeded to Madeji for talks with Afghan king. On the requests of Pir Nizamuddin Sarhindi and Pir Ghulam Muhiudin Sarhindi the Afghan King accepted ceasefire proposal and demanded for 5 Lakh Rupees along with 500 camels from Amirs of Sindh. He took Nawab Bahadur Khokhar and his 100 Sindhi Soldiers with him. Mir Mehrab Khan Brohi gave him a warm welcome up till Shaal or Quetta. Shah Shuja went to conquer Kandhar with 80,000 army but could not get any success. Finally he was badly defeated and took retuned back to Kalat for refuge. After a short stay he moved towards Gandava and thence came to Larkana. A terror shook the Amirs of Sindh who sent orders to Syed Ismail Shah for motivating Afghan king to visit Hyderabad, the capital of Amis of Sindh. During this journey Shah Shuja visited the shrine of Qalander Lal Shahbaz at Sehwan. At last he reached Hyderabad where Amirs of Sindh served him the best and gave him cash, elephant and royal tents and suggested him to travel through Jaisalmir and Ludhiana. A treaty was signed in 1834 between English, Shah Shuja and Ranjit Singh at Lahore. In 1835-36, Lieutenant Robert Leech and Alexander Burnes were sent on secret missions to Sindh and Afghanistan. MANGASEES 50: The Mangasees, with their chief Ahmed Khan, are under the Brahm, there are not more than 50 with Noor Mahomed under a leader Wala Dad, he has a Jahgire called Kotla near Ghybeer Dera. Report on the Sindhian, Khelat, and Daoodputra Armies with a collection of Routes By Lieutenant Robert Leech Bombay Engineers Reports and Papers Political, Geographical & Commercial Submitted to Government By Sir Alexander Burnes, Lieutenant Robert Leech, Doctor Lord & lieutenant Wood, Employed on missions in the years 1835, 1836 and 1837 in Scinde, Afghanistan and Adjacent Countries, Calcutta 1839, Page 74). From the above Abstract of Lieutenant Robert Leech (1837) it comes into light that Mir Noor Muhammad Talpur (1833-1841) had deployed 50 soldiers in Kot Ghulam Shah under Mir Wali Dad Magsi who was a close relative of Ahmed Khan Magsi , the chief of Jhall Magsi. For this service he was bestowed a Jagir in Kot Ghulam Shah. His duty was to protect northern borders and trade routes of Chandookah/ Larkana District from Afghan invaders and to control inner issues of the district. It seems that all 50 soldiers deployed at the fort of Kot Ghulam Shah under Mir Wali Dad Magsi were Balochis. Nothing is known about these soldiers and their weapons. The lands of Mir Wali Dad Magsi were watered by Magsi Wah, which was excavated from Koor Dato. In the year 1838, Lieutenant Robert Leech was detached to Kalat to make arrangement regarding supplies, for the Army about to proceed to Afghanistan. Afghan King Shah Shuja ascended the throne at Kandhar on 25th April 1839. In the same year, General Wilshire captured Kalat and killed Mir Mehrab Khan Brohi on 13th November 1839. A fierce battle between Mir Ali Murad Khan Talpur and Mir Rustam Khan Talpur was fought at village Noonari near Khairpur in 1840. Around 700 soldiers were killed from Mir Rustam Khan Talpur while only 12 soldiers lost their lives from Mir Ali Murad Khan Talpur. In 1840, Sir John Keane drew supplies for his army from Shahdadkot which was engaged in first Anglo Afghan War. In the same year in 1840 the District of Nalah Datah was sold in contract for one season to Futteh Chand for Rs. 10,000, and he expended Rs. 7000 on cleaning the canal. Nalah Datah is also known as Koor Dato, dug by Mian Dato Khuhawar, a minister of Mian Noor Muhammad Kalhoro. Mir Noor Muhammad Khan Talpur died in 1841 at Hyderabad. Afghan King Shah Shuja was killed by Shujaudaula in 1842 at Kabul. He was buried with his father. In 1842, just before the conquest of Sindh Mir Shahdad Khan Talpur sent an order for 10,000 Rs. To be expended on the clearance of Shah Ji Koor or the Shah Canal in Kamber, Shahdadkot & Miro Khan Areas, but this was not carried out.
Shah Shuja-ul-Mulk Durani (1785-1842) the King of Afghanistan

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After defeating the Amirs of Sindh in the battle of Miani in 1843, the British occupied the fort. The Magsi tribe was also a most prominent tribe of Larkana District. They were closely associated with the Chandio Tribe of Ghaibidero. After the conquest the then chief, Nawab Wali Muhammad Chandio, rendered Sir Charles Napier considerable help in his campaign against the Bugtis. Very shortly after the annexation of Sindh by the British Mir Wali Dad Magsi died around 1843-44. He was buried in the middle of the fort of Kot Ghulam Shah. A huge grave was constructed over his body. The shape of his grave resembles with Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro Grave located at Hyderabad. The size of bricks used in this massive grave is 10X7X 1 . The length of grave is 9 and its width is 6 while its height is 8 . It has 3 panels from eastern and western sides. He was head of the Hasrani division one of the Magsi tribe. In 1844 Mir Sher Muhammad Talpur crossed from Shahdadkot and went to Jhall Magsi and Kachhi , Phoolji, Utch and Shahpur to seek support to kick out the British from Sindh but unfortunately he couldnt succeed in his aims. Balochis plundered Kamber town and set it on fire. In 1845 Mir Muhammad Naseer Khan Talpur, the last ruler of Sindh died in exile. On 13th January 1845 General John Jacob fought with the party of robbers and asked Wali Muhammad Chandio of Ghiabidero and Ahmed Khan Magsi of Jhall to attack on Phoolji in Kachhi Area. Wali Muhammad Chandio died in 1849 at Ghaibidero. Mir Wali Dad Magsi left behind 4 sons 1) Mir Ganhwar Ali Khan 2) Muhammad Ali Khan 3) Chakar Ali Khan and 4) Ghulam Hyder Khan. Mir Muhammad Ali Khan Magsi married from his relatives. He left a son Mir Aashiq Ali Khan Magsi. This Mir married in young age and was bestowed with three sons; 1) Mir Ghulam Ali Khan 2) Dost Ali Khan and 3) Lutuf Ali Khan. Mir Dost Ali Khan Magsi became very powerful and influential landlord in the district. He might have been born in 1870 and died before 1940s. He took interest in politics of Sindh. He had a son called Mir Ameer Ali Khan. Mir Bakhshal Khan Magsi was his illustrious son who was born in village Kot Ghulam Shah in 1920 and died recently in 2010. He took actively part in Khaksar Movement. He also met with Field Marshal Muhammad Ayoob Khan , the President of Pakistan when he was on his visit to Larkana and Kamber. He married three wives from Magsi, Khaskheli and Sangah tribes. He left behind 6 sons 1) Mir Haji Munawar Ali Khan Magsi 2) Mir Imdad Hussain Khan Magsi 3) Mir Abdul Aziz Khan Magsi 4) Mir Fida Hussain Khan Magsi 5) Mir Abdul Rasheed Khan Magsi and 6) Mir Ayaz Khan . This Magsi family has old Swords, Armors and Spears of Talpur Period. The earliest reference of Kot Ghulam Shah is found in the Sindh Gazetteer of the Province of Sindh compiled by A.W.Hughes (London: George Bell & sons, 1874). Under the description of Larkana District A.W.Hughes gives details of Fisheries in this district, from which in 1873-74 the government derived a revenue exceeding 7000 Rupees. He mentions the names of fishery of Kot Ghulam Shah and Tando Murad Ali Khuhawar in Kambar Taluka from which the government received 16 Rupees annually. Other important fisheries in nearby area are shown as Chila, Koor Dato, Koor Shahji, Dhori Drib Chandia, Dhori Pir Bakhsh, Raunti, Chhajra, Ali Khan, Buthi, Mahmu , Miro Khan and Kamber. (Page 474-475). Another important reference source of this is Shikarpur Census: General Statement of Area and Population of Shikarpur Collectorate Abstract in The Sind Official Gazette published by the Authority Karachi Saturday 27th May 1876. Shikarpur Collectorate was consisted on these Talukas; 1) Shikarpur 2) Sukkur 3) Naushehro 4) Rohri 5) Syedpur 6) Ghotki 7) Mirpur 8) Ubauro 9) Larkana 10) Kamber 11) Ratodero 12) Sijawal 13) Labdaria 14) Mehar 15) Tigar 16) Kakar 17) Nasirabad. The area of Collectorate was 8,809 Sq Miles. The number of villages, Mouzahs or Townships was 5236. There were 1, 44,085 Households in it while its total population was 7, 76, 227. This information is collected by W.Foxton, the Acting Commissioner of Shikarpur. On the other hand the Kamber Taluka had following Tappas; 1) Kamber 2) Muha 3) Keso 4) Karira 5) Dost Ali 6) Seer Karira 7) Puhwaro and 8) Booti. The Deh Kamber of Tappa Kamber had a total population of 3, 518 while whole of the Taluka Kamber had 73,329 populations. A that time Under Tappa Booti (Buthi ) of Kamber Taluka following Dehs are mentioned with their population figures; NAME OF DEH 1) 2) 3) 4) 5) 6) 7) Shambho Dinno Dari Rowti Dhori Taj Mahomed Bhuti Hoolia Kurio Jam Kote Ghulam Shah POPULATION 86 17 22 1,289 469 226 169

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8) 9) 10) 11) 12)

Buhram Rawti Hasoola Mubarick Miano

103 773 738 574 926

Village Kot Ghulam Shah is situated at 7 Kilometers in the north of Kamber City in Deh Hulia Union Council Raunti Taluka Kamber District Kamber Shahdadkot Sindh Pakistan. It is one of the main and historical village on Kamber Miro Khan Road. Its has round about 250 HHs with 5000 population. The neighboring villages are Chandia, Dadu Hulio, Ali Bux Panhwar, Golo Sangah, Hasula, Raunti, Mena, Esaw Kalhoro and Wadha. The major tribes and castes of this village are Magsi, Sheikh, Khaskheli, Kalhora, Lashari, Manganhar, Khokhar, Bhatti, Channa, Burira, Sangah, Roongha, Tunia, Mangi, Soomra and Ode. The residents linkages are with Jhall Magsi, Dhadhar, Larkana & Hyderabad. The Jiskani tribe has migrated from the village long ago. These were also known as Mula Family. The village has been endangered by the Indus River and Khirthar Range Flash floods since past. Mir Bakhshal Khan Magsi constructed a Bund to protect village Kot Ghulam Shah near Hasula village in the west during 1942. Its ruins are still visible in agricultural lands about a kilometer from the village. This bund is named after this powerful chief of Magsi tribe. The Government Boys Primary School Kot Ghulam Shah was founded in 1935. Its Semis Code is 128231. GBLSS (Semis Code 128247) was established in 1990. While GGPS (Semis Code 128340) was also founded in the same year. There were many Hindu houses and shops here. Such shops and their residences were visible up till 1955. During 1965 Indo Pakistan War it was well guarded by the villagers. In 1971 the village was provided Electricity facility. The residents of Kot Ghulam Shah left their houses due to the fear of Bolan Flood in 1976 but soon returned back as the danger was over. According to Dr. Barkat Ali Makol, Medical Officer the BHU Kot Ghulam Shah started working since 1987. Presently its total male and female staff is 13. Sartaj Ahmed Khaskheli, Dispenser and Ashfaque Ahmed Magsi are serving the suffering people with their counseling and treatments. In 1988 Government Boys Middle school was founded to educate secondary education to village children. Kot Ghulam Shah is the only surviving mud fort in District Kamber Shahdadkot, Sindh. Since 1990s it has been given importance as a historical monument and researches have been conducted to highlight this fort. Syed Hakim Ali Shah Bukhari (1993), Imam Rashidi (2005) and Din Muhammad Kalhoro (2006) has visited this historical fort of Kalhora Period and collected information from the local people. Imam Rashidi wrote an article on Kot Ghulam Shah which was published in Quarterly Mehran Hyderabad in 2005. It is told by the villagers that DC Larkana came to visit this fort with some foreigners and his staff in 1998-99. It is located on a high sandy mound, about 7 Kilometers in the north west of Kamber, in Kamber Shahdadkot District, Sindh Province, Pakistan. It is approximately 30 km west by north of Larkana, in vicinity of 27.3918 65N, 68.01 46.91E. Its elevation is 158 ft from Arabian sea level. Its total area is 132.588 meters or 47000 square feet. Its length is 235 feet from north to south and it is 200 feet wide from east to west. Its structure resembles with fort of Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoros tomb located at Hyderabad. The length of this fort is 252 feet with 233 feet width. Its height is 25 feet. Kot Ghulam Shah is the only visible fort in Kamber Shahdadkot area. It was constructed to withstand firearms. As one enters the fort, one can find old trees, graves, wells, building structures, bastions, watchtowers, shrines ammunition depots, all inside Kot Ghualm Shah, adding more to its beauty and mystery. According to a tale told by the local inhabitants, when the Kot Ghualm Shah was built its western wall came over a grave which was not visible through human eyes. One night the chief mason saw a dream in which the diseased occupant of the grave told him to keep his grave inside or outside the fort. After this it was decided to put the grave inside the structure. This grave belongs to Syed Gulab Shah who is said to be a saint. The walls of Kot Ghualm Shah are average 15 feet high and are made of mud, straw, cow dung, dry grass and bricks. Wooden plunks and ropes were also used to construct such high walls. Other construction material used in the construction work was spades, bowls, wheel barrows, and baskets. Donkeys, Horses and Bullocks. While originally constructed for bow and arrow warfare it was later expanded to withstand firearms. Its walls are reinforced with 4 bastions, all are round in shape. All modified through the ages to accommodate the use of gunpowder, this perhaps makes it the most important fort in the district. The walls of Kot Ghulam Shah have been crumbled away from the affects of Rainfall, earthquakes and air. Presently the highest parts of the walls bear a height of 15 feet in eastern side. Whole of the building is construed on the sand dune. They are 5 feet in width at some places. The walls were built by using the earth excavated while digging the ditch, with three-quarters of it used for building a rampart and one-quarter for leveling out the

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surface inside the fortress. This ditch is locally known as Kumb which is said to be 7 feet deep and spread on 2 Acres of land. One a horseman drowned in it with his horse. Nothing was recovered. This Kumb is famous for its fish. Different kinds of Birds have made nests in the walls of the fort. Once the fort existed in the wild forest with sandy mounds its why Wolf, Jackal, Fox and other wild animals were very common. The mud fort building of Kot Ghulam Shah has 4 towers. These towers are semicircular and pointed at the top. Nearly half of the tower structures are razed due to human and rainfall seasons. A road leads to village Hasula at the northern side of the towers. The farmers start agricultural activities beside these towers as they are near to main road. Thick Babool and Kandi trees are grown at the towers. The south western tower is in good condition in case of others. It is believed that Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro had mounted Cannons on the towers of this royal fort but no such remains can be found now. There is only one gate in Kot Ghulam Shah which is located in the eastern side. Once a Mosque used to be there. A cemented road leads into the middle of the fort building. Since the death of Mir Wali Dad Magsi in 1843-44 this fort has been used to bury the dead and it has taken the shape of a graveyard. The graves of Mir Bakhshal Khan Magsi, Mir Ayaz Khan Magsi and Begum Sahiba are located beside the gate under old shady trees. One a gate constructed with burnt bricks stood here. The remains of 3 Barracks or Landhis can be seen inside the fort on northern side. The Barracks were inhabited by Mirs soldiers as residential quarters. They also used to keep their weapons including swords and guns here. The Talpur Amirs of Sindh paid special attention to Kot Ghulam Shah during First Anglo Afghan War-1839-40. It was excellent station for troops after the fort of Larkana. A band of dacoits made this fort as their abode during 1970s under Allah Dino Kalhoro and his friends Mir Chandio, Wazir Chandio, and Duro Chandio. It made angry to Mir Bakhshal Khan Magsi who forced this band to leave the fort. There was a Stable in which soldiers tied their horses. These horses were always ready to face any emergency in the area. It seems that these soldiers also collected taxes from Trade caravans crossing from Kamber to Garhi Khero and thence to Afghanistan. Remains of a Well are also found inside of the fort near the shrine of Syed Gulab Shah. Now a Hand pump has been installed at this spot. Beside the gate, there are remains of an old Mosque which was constructed with mud. It guarded the whole structure. The mosque is disappeared from the face of the earth. Its size is said to be 15X15. Local people tell that the width of Mosque Walls was 3 feet. Presently some wild bushes have grown on the site. This mosque was seen last time in 1990s. It was a mud building and was constructed in front of the fort to guard it. Another three domed beautiful mosque is located in the west in village Sultan Hasula. According to PhD. Scholar and Anthropologist Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro this village was founded by Sultan Khan Hasula in 1775 AD during the days of Mian Sarfaraz Khan Kalhoro. The Grave of Mir Wali Dad Magsi is the most important and unique grave in Kot Ghulam Shah. It stands in the middle of the fort building. A huge grave was constructed over his body. The shape of his grave resembles with Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro Grave located at Hyderabad. The size of bricks used in this massive grave is 10X7X 1 . The length of grave is 9 and its width is 6 while its height is 8 . It has 3 panels from eastern and western sides. While 2 panels can be seen from northern and southern side. In the south of this structure lie graves of Magsi family of this village. Some other historical graves belong to Waris Magsi and Kechi Magsi (1352 A.H/1933 AD). Both of the graves have epitaphs in green tiles. The most important shrine belongs to Syed Gulab Shah. No one knows about this saint but a village called Syed Gulab Shah is located in the north of Shahdadkot on Shahdadkot Garhi Khero Road. Captain Powell (1839) Edward Thornton (1844) and Richard Francis Burton (1851) give description of Syed Gulab Shah Village near Shahdadkot. Mir Ali Sher Qani has mentioned the Takiya of Gulab Shah in the description of Zia, a great Persian Poet of Sindh in his book Maqalt-ul-Shuera Published by Sindhi Adabi Board, Karachi, 1957, on page No. 370. Qani has also mentioned Mir Gulab Shah, descendent of Ameen-ul-Mulk Nawab Mir Muhammad Masoom Bakhari in his Persian Book Tuhfat-ul Kiram, Published by Sindhi Adabi Board Hyderabad 1989 on page No 329. Mir Gulab Shah belonged to Sukkur and he had a brother called Mir Karam Shah. Both of them lived during the rule of Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro. The shrine of Syed Gulab Shah is located in the north western corner of the fort and is encircled by hundreds of pigeons. The shrine of stands outside the mud fort of Kot Ghulam Shah on northern edge along the road. A mud tomb is constructed on its grave. Its surrounded by a large number of other graves and old trees. The history of Syed Jeandal Shah is also faded. Nothing is told about him but there is description of an person called Syed Jeandal Shah in the History of Sindh. He was a minister of Talpur Amirs of Sindh and was sent to receive Alexander Burnes from Hyderabad to the mouth of Indus River near Thatta in 1830-31. Another important grave belongs to Watayo Faqir, a saint. This grave lies outside the mud fort building bear western Wall. Villagers come here to pay homage to this saint in great number. No tomb is erected on this saint. The grave is decorated with colorful fabrics and is surrounded by old trees and bushes. The Sheikh Community of this village gives special homage to this saint. The graves of Wadeo

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Foto Khan Sheikh, is also situated near this saint. He was headman of Sheikh Community. Watayo Faqir is a legendary character of Sindh. The ancestors of Watayo were Hindu Khati who were later converted into Islam.On his birth,he was named "Watan Mal" and "Shaikh Tahir" when converted.But he retained his original name and is known by it.Many sources give the birthplace of Watayo as Tajpur Village near Nasarpur. He did not rest at one place and wandered where his heart would lead.His Last resting place is said to be in Tando Allahyar . Watayo Faqir was born in 1768 and died at the age of 62 in 1830. His disciple Qazi Mula Muhammad Jahangiri was tutor of Noor Jehan Begum. Later on he was killed by Muhabat Khan and was buried at Thatta. Watayo Faqir had offered funeral prayers of Makhdoom Hamza Waiz at Thatta, Sindh. Currently, the Magsi Tribe occupies the mud fort of Kot Ghulam Shah. They also possess amours and swords of Talpur period. It is used as a graveyard by the villagers. Today, the condition of this Royal Kalhora Fort of 1760 AD is decaying. Its walls and towers are disappearing day by day. There is need to attract the Sindh government's funds to preserve the fort into a national tourist site. The Archeology and Culture Departments can also play their effective role in the restoration of this historic monument of District Kamber Shahdadkot, Sindh, Pakistan. At the same time English, Dutch, French, Iranian, Indian and Pakistani Researchers are humbly requested to conduct scientific studies on the mud fort of Kot Ghualm Shah constructed by Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro in 1760 AD. Similarly local historians are invited to explore, collect data and examine the site for future. Archeologists, Forensic Scientists, Anthropologists, Historian, Tour Guides and Volunteers should play their role in this regards. FORT OF JOYA Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro came to Khudabad in 1172 A.H. /1759 A.D and killed leaders of Khosa tribe, who had plundered the city, during chaos created by the dispute of succession between the brothers after their fathers death. It is said that taking advantage of political uncertainty, Khosas looted Hindus as well as Muslims and burnt the entire Khudabad city down by tying fire crackers with birds feet and let fly them throughout the city after setting fire the fire crackers. According to the Captain James Macmurdos, The History of the Kalhoras of Sindh (1844 A.D),The Kosha tribes, who inhabited the division of Sewistan (Sehwan Area) , had been very troublesome during the late contest; and from the position they occupied, in the pass from Kandhar, had been of essential service to Attur Khan (Kalhoro). Ghulam Shah (Kalhoro), as the first act of his government, inflicted on them an exemplary punishment. Their villages were reduced to ashes, their strongholds carried by assault, and their garrisons, with the families of the tribe, put to the sword. (The Journal of the Bombay Branch of the Royal Asiatic Society, Vol: I. July 1841 to July 1844 A.D, Bombay: American Mission Press 1844 A.D). The Joya fort was built from mud. Chhuto Khan Joyo served both Kalhora and Talpur rulers. Nazir Ahmed Bhand, a local historian of district Dadu tells that a band of dacoits under Jaffer Khan Khosa had attacked Khudabad and set it on fire after looting its residents. They plundered both Muslims as well as Hindus of the city. After this tragic incident many of the Hindu families left Khudabad and migrated towards Talti, Sehwan, Larkana and Sukkur. This incident was one of the major reasons of the fall of Khudabad. Very shortly, after this incident Khudabad was inundated by River Indus floods which damaged much part of this grand and prosperous capital of Kalhora rulers of Sindh. (Khudabad 2004, Page 14). These Khosas had betrayed their masters and had made immediate show off and destroyed Khudabad & Larkana areas during civil war. The legend says that when Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro decided to punish Khosas they went to their neighbors i.e. the Joyas, the Khuhawars and the Silras for seeking refuge and support. All of these tribesmen refused Khosas for such support and cleared Khosas that they will not fight against Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro. Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro punished Khosas and destroyed their villages. The graves of the relatives and companions of Jaffer Khan Khoso are located in the historical grave yard (Survey Number 59) of village Chhutto Joyo in Deh Dhori Mubarak of Taluka Miro Khan district Kamber Shahdadkot, Sindh. This historical grave yard is spread on 10 acres. The reddish burnt brick graves present a picturesque view with old trees and sandy dunes. Abdul Halim Joyo, the headman of above mentioned village also narrates the same story of Khosas massacred by Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro in Larkana. According to Mir Ali Sher Qani of Thatta (1727-1788 AD) Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro gave orders to build a small fort in the vicinity of Larkana to control any future uprising in the area. (Tuhfat-ul-Karam: Mir Ali Sher Qani Thatvi, Published by Sindhi Adabi Board Jamshoro/ Hyderabad Sindh, 1989, Pages 278 & 279). He further mentions that Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro attacked and killed a large number of fleeing Khosas in the forts of Joya and Tulli (Thull). A Thull or tower constructed of burnt bricks can be seen in village Dhing 13 kilometers in the north east of Shahdadkot. This village belongs to Sardar Muqeem Khan Khoso, the chief of Khosa tribe in Sindh. The Khosa tribe held Jagir in Deh Thull in taluka Shahdadkot district Larkana during Talpur and British Rule. The Joya fort stood close to Koor Dato in taluka Miro Khan. The renowned poet Faqir Qadir Bux Joyo (died 1913) also belonged to this village.

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MIRPUR BHUTTO FORT The Bhutto family migrated to Sindh during the reign of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb Alamgir. Chaker Ali Junejo writes in his Book Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto: A Memoir 1996 that, the location where Mitha Khan and Sata Khan, ancestors of Bhutto family settled, came to be known as Mitha Khans Palce. The Kalhoras were the ruling dynasty in Sindh at that time, and as matters developed, Mitha Khan fought many a battle on behalf of the Kalhoras with the local rebellious tribes. Mitha Khans son Pir Bakhsh also made a name for himself in valor against these tribes. However, after the death of his father, Pir Bakhsh decided to make Mirpur the family home where he constructed the fort for his peoples use. The present Bhutto family is descended from his son Dodo Khan. Dodo Khan had three sons: Illahi Bakhsh, Khuda Bakhsh and Amir Bakhsh. Khuda Bakhsh Bhutto gave the name to Garhi Khuda Bakhsh was born in 1821. This was the time when Talpur Mirs were in the ascendance. The lands of the Bhuttos extended from Larkana right up to Khairpur and Jacobabad. (Page No. 11). It is said that Sir Charles Napier also visited the lands of Bhuttos while he was passing through Larkana against Baloochees campaigns in Kachhi plains. At that time Sir Charles Napier was assisted by Wali Muhammad Chandio, chief of Ghaibidero and Ahmed Khan Magsi, chief of Jhal Magsi who fought bravely. Before this Pir Bakhsh Khan Bhutto was invited by His Highness Mir Ali Murad Khan Talpur to send his son Allah Bakhsh Khan Bhutto to Khairpur where he was kept an honorable hostage at the Talpur court for five years, to ensure that my family did not revolt. Such was the rebellion nature of Bhutto family that even the Talpurs to whom Pir Bakhsh Khan owed his allegiance and their ownership of vast areas was confirmed as a friendly gesture by the Talpur rulers, had to be vigilant about them. The legend goes that the 250,000 acres of Bhutto land had shrunk to 50,000 acres after the British rule began in Sindh. Ghulam Murtaza Bhutto, the son of Khuda Bux Khan Bhutto and the grandfather of Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto was a story book character. When the Talpurs were defeated, overthrown, imprisoned and replaced by the all-powerful Britishers, it is said that most of the landlords frightened and demoralized behaved like cringing cowards and professional flatters to please their new foreign masters. But proponets recoung that credit goes to the Bhutto family, self respecting and to an extent proud, not overawed by the powerful British rulers, and their attitude, ways and behavior were said to have remained unchanged. Wadero Ghulam Murtaza, Khuda Baksh Bhutto's son, was a wealthy man with estates in the Shikarpur and Upper Sind. An endless stream of legal cases was initiated against Mir Ghulam Murtaza Khan and his self respecting father, Khuda Bakhsh Khan (who died in 1896). They had to pour money for defending against the atrocities and conspiracies of the British, supported by the sycophant landholders. Fleeing the British, Ghulam Murtaza escaped into the independent state of Bahawalpur. But after the British threatened to seize the state, Ghulam Murtaza thanked the Nawab for his hospitality and crossed the Indus again to gain sanctuary in the kingdom of Afghanistan, where he was a guest of the royal family. In fury, the British seized all his lands in 1896, and his family was forced by the Superintendent of Police to leave their once luxurious home in Garhi Khuda Bakhsh Bhutto village of Sindh in Ratodero Taluka, with only clothes on their bodies. Finally a compromise was worked out with the British and Ghulam Murtaza returned to Larkana. But his days were numbered. He became ill and began to lose weight. The hakims, or village doctors, suspected poison, though no one could find the source. He had tasters test his food and drinking water, but the poisoning continued until it killed him in 1896 at the young age of twenty-seven. Ghulam Murtaza Bhutto had two sons 1) Sir Shahnawaz Khan Bhutto (1888-1957) and 2) Sardar Nabi Bakhsh Khan Bhutto. KHAIRPUR JUSO FORT Khyrpoor, also about twelve miles from Larkhana, is a large town, with a fort. It is in the Jageer of Meer Beejar Khan.(Report on the Purguna of Chandookah in Upper Sindh Compiled by Lieutenant Hugh James 44th Regiment Bengal N.I, Late Deputy Collector Shikarpoor, Submitted to Government on the 31st December 1847, page 721). A.W.Hughes in his Gazetteer of Sind (1876), syas, Khairpur Juso: a jagir village in the Larkano Deputy Collectorate, distant about 10 miles west by south from the town of Larkano. This

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village is held in jagir by Mir Bijar Khan Talpur (Shahdadani), a lineal descendent and representative of the Mir Bijar, who was murdered by the Kalhora prince, Abdul Nabi Khan. It has direct road communication with Larkano, and Wara, being on the line of road, and is the head-quarter station of the Tappedar of Lang. It has also lines to accommodate five policemen. The population numbers about 1000 souls, of whom 700 are Musalmans of the Isran, Chana, Sahta, and Tunia tribes, and 300 Hindus of Nangdev and Ahuja castes. There are no manufacturers of any importance, and the local trade is mostly in juar and rice, but to what extent is not known. There is no transit trade. There is a fort in this village, built originally by one Juso, of the Mohana tribe; it is now occupied by the jagirdar , Mir Bijar Khan. (Pages 421-422) According to Major P Goldney (1847) Mir Bijar Khan Talpur had 4,000 acres of land in Khairpur Juso. Khairpur Juso is situated 8 Km in the south of Kamber. It is comprised of 250 houses and its total population is round about 5000. The historic villages of Ghulam Muhammad Isran and Ganhwar Khan Isran are located beside Khairpur Juso. The Isran tribe served the Mirs and received agricultural lands from the British Government of India for loyalty after 1843. They were the owners of Langh Lake.Syed Hisamuddin Rashdi mentioned Khan Sahib Ghulam Muhammad Isran in his book. Khan Sahib died in 1938. He had two sons; 1) Ghulam Mustafa and 2) Zainul-Abidin. Ex MPA Ghualm Mujtaba Isran is the son of Ghulam Mustafa Khan Isran. NASIRABAD FORT Nuseerabad, built by Meer Nuseer Khan, twenty-four miles south-west of Larkhana, is much deserted. The streets are broader, and the houses larger, than in other towns; and it has also a good fort. (Report on the Purguna of Chandookah in Upper Sindh Compiled by Lieutenant Hugh James 44th Regiment Bengal N.I, Late Deputy Collector Shikarpoor, Submitted to Government on the 31st December 1847, page 721.) Nasirabad was a taluka of the Mehar Deputy Collectorate, containing and area of 343 square miles, with 8 tappas, 54 villages, and a population of 26,102. Nasirabad was situated on the banks of Chilo Wah. The population of the Nasir abad town was 1085, of whom 800 were Muslims and 285 were Hindus. The former were of the Kathia tribe, and the later of the Pahin caste. The town was built by Mir Nasir Khan Talpur, and was formerly of some importance; it had also a good fort. (Gazetteer of Sindh By A.W.Hughes, London 1876, Pages 570-571). The structure crumbled down by the passage of time. FORT OF RATO KOT The Rato Kot fort was located 10 Km in the south of Kamber. It was built under the supervision of Sirai Rato Khan Naitch. He was a commander of the Talpur Amirs of Sindh. A village belonging to Naitch tribe still exists beside the site. In Kamber taluka, Rato Kot is the name of a Deh/ Revenue village which produces rice in Union Council Khairpur Juso. The fort decayed after the conquest of Sindh by the British in 1843 and became residential place of the Naitch landlords. GHOGHARO FORT Ghogharo fort was located 13 Km in the south of Kamber in Deh Ghogharo, Union Council Khairpur Juso taluka Kamber. The nearby villages around Ghogharo are Pakho, Nao Goth, Waryani and Waggan. The fort was built by Ghogharo Khan Mangan in the reign of Mir Sohrab Khan Talpur (1783-1830), the ruler of Khairpur State. Ghogharo Khan Mangan served the Talpur Amirs of Khairpur Mirs of Sindh. The ruins of this old fort are situated on a mound in the north of village Ghogharo. The tomb of Ghogharo Khan Mangan is also situated beside the mound and the old fort. There is also grave of Dhingano Khan Mangan (1765-1835) who was father of Ghogharo. Dulo Khan Mangan (1730-1801), the grandfather of Ghogharo served Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro. Ghogharo Khan Mangan died in 1865. The fort constructed by him, is changed into a graveyard. Ghogharo had five sons named Muhammad Khan, Gul Muhammad, Dhingano Khan-II, Sijawal Khan and Muhammad Suleman. In 1876, the total population of Ghogharo was 1262, comprising 1042 Muslims of Mangan, Sial, and Wagan tribes, who were chiefly engaged in agriculture. It was a finest rice-producing part of Sindh. GAJI KHUHAWAR FORT Some 3 Km northeast of the town of Gaji Khuhawar, are three, centuries old tombs of Khuhawars and Khokhars. During the rule of the Kalhoras, many Jat tribes came to settle in Sindh, including Khuhawar Khokhar and Sials etc. The Kalhoras encouraged the migration of these people and furnished them with lands and important positions in their government. Some were even included in the army. One Mohammed Hasan Khuhawar, who was Commander-in-Chief of the army of the Kalhora, was known for his bravery, swordsmanship

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and ability to lead army in the combat. Other famous personalities of the Kalhora dynasty was Shahdad Khan Khuhawar who laid the foundation of the Shahdadpur; later it was renamed Shahdadkot that is now a taluka in Larkana district. Mian Gajji Khuhawar was a disciple of Mian Nasir Muhammad Kalhoro (1657-1692). He served as minister and advisor during the rule of Mian Nasir Muhammad Kalhoro. Mian Gaji was a very religious person; he established many madrasahs where religious education was imparted to people. During his tenure as minister he also built some tombs notably of his relatives and friends. He was also responsible for recruiting the people in the time of crisis in the country. Mian Gaji Khuhawar was very committed to the welfare of the people; he dug a number of wells for the poor. During his time life and property was safe and secure and there was larceny and mugging was absent. People led a peaceful life. He was held him in great esteem due to his righteous and generous attitude. He could variously be called pious, religious scholar, kindhearted, benevolent and administrator. He built the tomb in his lifetime. Mian Mubarak Khuhawar was the eldest son of Mian Gaji Khuhawar. Mian Gajji Khuhawar founded a town which was anmed after him. Today its population is 40,000 or more. Mian Gajji Khuhawar had 3 sons 1) Mian Mubarak Khauhawar 2) Mian Saindad Khuhawar and 3) Mian Ranjho Khuhawar. Gaji Khuhawar is still famous for the fabulously built three-domed mosque which was built by Mian Gaji Khuhawar and later renovated by his grandson Mian Gul Mohammad Khuhawar. He also served as a minister during the Talpur dynasty most probably during the rule of Mir Karam Ali Khan Talpur. Major P Goldney, Collector and Magistrate of Shikarpur writes in his Report Chiefs and Persons of Importance Residing in the Shikarpur Coolectorate, submitted to Government on 31st December 1847 that, Gool Mahomed Kohawur, of near Nusseerabad, twenty-five miles south-west of Larkhana: Head of Kohawur Sindee tribe. He is an influential man, a good farmer, and highly respected, and looked up to by the Zumindars in the Larkhana district. (Page 691) Bedar Jafferi in his article on Badah (2005) says that according to the family tradition of Mian Nek Muhammad Khuhawar, the resident of Gaji Khuhawar town, it is said that when Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro (1722-1772) visited Mian Gaji Khuhawar on his invitation, he bestowed upon him the Jagir from Sindh Balochistan border to the River Indus. Muhammad Hassan Khuhawar and his brother Muhammad Baqar Khuhawar also lived in the same location and served the Kalhora rulers of Sindh. There are five tombs that belong to Mian Gaji Khuhawar, Mian Mubarak Khuhawar, Mian Budho Khuhawar, Mian Sandho Khokhar and Mian Mungo Khokhar are situated near Gaji Khuhawar town. According to Haji Qalander Bux Khuhawar, these tombs were built during the Kalhora period (1701-1783). The grave of Muhammad Hassan Khuhawar is situated in front of the tomb of Mian Noor Muhammad Kalhoro, 15 Km in the east of Daulatpur town in the Nawabshah District of Sindh. Muhammad Hassan Khuhawar had built a fort near Daulatpur which declined by the time. The glorious fort of Gaji Khuhawar perished due to threat of salinity and flood disasters of the River Indus. The fort was best example of Kalhora period. RATO DERO FORT Ruttah Derah, about twenty miles north of Larkhana, is the only other town of importance. It has a good bazaar and fort. (Report on the Purguna of Chandookah in Upper Sindh Compiled by Lieutenant Hugh James 44th Regiment Bengal N.I, Late Deputy Collector Shikarpoor, Submitted to Government on the 31st December 1847, page 721) Rato Dero was formerly, as the name implies, the encampment of a chief of the Jalbani tribe called Rato. (Gazetteer of Sindh by A.W.Hughes, London 1876, Page 621. The population of Rato Dero in 1876 was 2635; of these 1160 were Muslims of Syed, Joya, Lorar and Chaki tribes. While 1475 Hindus belonged to Brahmin, Chahria, and Ahuja castes. The municipality of this town was established in 1862. Rato Khan Jalbani is buried in Bhando Qubo which was built in the year 1740 on a high mound near Rato Dero. It is said that he was a commander of Kalhora Army. Rato Dero fort was a haltng place between Punhoo Bhatti and Larkana. It protected the caravans from robbers. The fort stood between the courses of Khyrah Canal and Shah Canal of the River Indus. WAGGAN SYED NABI SHAH FORT The fort of Waggan Syed Nabi Shah was situated in the north east of Ratodero. Lieutenant Hugh James described it in his Report on the Purguna of Chandookah in Upper Sindh 31st December 1847. He also shows two more forts named Bhai Khan Ji Garhi and Punhoon Bhatti. The fort of Punhoon Bhatti (Poonoo) was located on the commercial route of Shikarpur. It was mostly used by Horse traders. Captain Arthur Conolly (1807-1842), a British intelligence officer, explorer and writer also mentions Poonoo in his Journey to the North of India through Russia, Persia and Afghanistan- (2 Vols.). London, Richard Bentley, 1834. He was a captain of the 6th Bengal Light Cavalry in the service of the British East India Company.
General John Jacob

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GHARHI KHAIRO FORT Khairo Khan Jamali was a disciple & commander of Mian Noor Muhammad Kalhoro. He fought bravely in the battle against Mir Abdullah Khan Brahui, the Khan of Kalat in 1144 A.H/ 1731 AD. Other illustrious generals of Kalhora Army who took part in this battle were Mir Jam Nindo Talpur, Mir Bahram Talpur, Mir Chaker Talpur, Mir Shah Ali Talpur, Sultan, Khairo and Dato. Khairo Khan Jamali is believed to have founded a town which was named after him. He also dug canal called Koor Khairo. History shows that he founded 2 forts on Sindh border to protect the caravan routes from the robbers. The picturesque village of Khrah Gurhee, with its two forts, grove of trees, and small patches of cultivation, relieves the eye of the traveler, but on the looking further north, there is nothing to intercept the view over the salt and dreary desert. The boundary of Chandookah, and the British Sind, is about three miles north of this post. The country for the several miles south of Khyrah Gurhee presents a desolate appearance; the ruins of the villages are frequently met with, and the choked-up beds of deserted watercourses,-all evidences of former prosperity, as of the later inroads of the mountain robbers, who have despoiled this part of country, and driven its inhabitants to a less exposed locality. (Report on the Purguna of Chandookah in Upper Sind by Hugh James 1847, Page 713) "22nd August, 1849". Sir, I have the honor to report that, on the 16th instant, I proceeded to Khyree Ghurree, with the intension of visiting all the posts on the western side of this frontier. On the night following, an unusual and even quite unprecedented fall of rain took place, which rendered the country for two days impassable, even for men on foot, and it is still so for horsemen. On the morning of 17th the water was standing more than two feet deep in the lines at Khyree Ghurree; and in a few hours the whole of these lines fell down, and were completely washed away. I had previously caused men and horses to leave the lines, and pitch where they could find dry spots on the tops of sand hillocks, which alone appeared above the water; so that no one was hurt. As for as the eye could reach nothing but water could be seen; and the whole desert between Khyree Ghurree and Rojaun was converted into a lake. Even now, after a lapse of six days, the water is nearly three feet deep in some parts of the road; while the mud still renders it very difficult ever for a cossid to get from one place to the other. It is my intension to return to Khanghur as soon as possible. I received information yesterday a strong body of Murrees has assembled in the hills for a predatory excursion on the border. I have the honor, &c., John Jacob, Major, Commanding the Frontier of Upper Scinde."(Sind Irregular Horse 1849).Garhi Khairo became a village of Shahdadpur or Shahdadkot taluka from 1st February 1884. Garhi Khairo forts were washed away in the floods of 1849 and 1874. The town was again destroyed by River Indus floods in 1942, 1948 and 2010. DOST ALI FORT According to Lieutenant Robert Leech in 1837 AD, the village of Dost Ali was situated 10 Kos from Shadihar and it had 150 houses with 4 or 5 wells. (Page No.88). Chhajra was 7 Kos distant from Dost Ali and it was comprised of 200 houses with plenty of water. Kamber was 4 Kos from Chhajra and it had 250 houses while Larkana was 5 Kos away from Kamber. There were 350 Hindu Shops in Larkana. (Page No.86). In AD 1844 Edward Thornton writes about Dost Ali and says that, Dustalee: A village in Sinde, situate on the road from Gundava to Larkhana, and twenty five miles North West of the last mentioned place. Lat. 27 38, Long. 67 58. (Page 178)
Dostalee: This is a moderate sized village, with about 12 shops, 3 pucka wells, and some kutcha; Luky-Jo-Gurrie is a 6 furlongs north

of this , and has two pucka wells; much cultivated ground here, and good encamping ground on a very extensive open plain. Dostalee is a place where Kaffillahs assemble to cross the desert going to the northward. (Routes and Stages in Scinde to and from Guzerat, Cutch, Jeysulmeer and Joudpoor with an Index Bombay 1846, Page No. 108) Bradshaw's hand-book to the Bombay presidency and North-western provinces of India 1864 gives description of Dost Ali or Dustalee and fixes it at the distance of 9 miles in the west south of Kumber on Route No 143 from Larkana to Dhadhar via Gundava being a distance of 176 miles. (Page 323) Bradshaw further writes regarding Dost Ali that, Dost Ali: Military Station; a detachment of the Scinde Horse stationed here. Encamping ground. Bazaar, well supplied, and forage abundant. This place is pleasantly situated amidst much cultivation. Thence along an excellent road, through a hard, level, desert country; pass Jaffier Kalora and Machee, 2 1/2 ; the ruins of old Braham, 5 1/2 , Shah-Chandia; , situated in a fine grove of trees, with a fort close at hand; Bahram (Bahram Khan Kokar-Ka) Shuhr, 3, with its small fort situated on the border of the Put or Desert of Shikarpoor. (Pages 307)

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The villages of Jaffer Kalhoro, Machhi, Shahoo Chandio and Bahram were located in the neighborhood of this place. The inhabitants of Bahram had plundered the Bengal Army in 1839 AD and the head man of this village and others had been hidden in Dost Ali which was administrated by Sirai or Naitch Tribe under the government of Talpurs of Sindh. James pronounces it as Dost Ally in 1847. HASSAN LAKHO FORT Mian Hassan Lakho was a celebrated minister cum commander of Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro. Mian Pir Bux Lakho, his father was local chief of Lakha tribe. He also served Mian Noor Muhammad Kalhoro who bestowed upon him a Jagir around Gandakha area on Sindh Kalat frontier. There he dug, Qadir Wah and irrigated his agricultural lands. As there was want of water in Kachho area, therefore Mian Hassan Lakho dug a new canal from Noor Wah to the Khirthar foothills in the west. He also built a fort for his residence as well as the protection of the country from mountain robbers. The Lakho chief owned a great number of livestock. His calves grazed freely in the Ghaibidero Jagir. None could dare to touch his cattle. After sometime, a dispute arose on the distribution of irrigational water of Noor Wah between Mian Hassan Lakho and Muhabat Khoso. The matter was brought in front of Mian Abdul Nabi Kalhoro, who ruled the country. He called upon in both the parties and ordered Muhbat Khoso to release water to Koor Hassan Lakho. The Khoso chief nodded the head but procrastinated later. Finally a fierce battle occurred in which Mian Hassan Lakho was eventually killed in 1778. His tomb stands beside village Korhh Burira in the west of Mirpur Buriro in Ghaibidero Jagir. The tomb of Mian Hassan Lakho was constructed by Nawab Wali Muhammad Chandio in 1808 AD. Captain Charles Masson also described this tomb in his narratives. Mian Hassan Lakho and Muhabat Khoso both served Mian Abdul Nabi Kalhoro, the last Kalhora prince of Sindh. A deh is also named after Mian Hassan Lakho in taluka Miro Khan. The fort of Mian Hassan Lakho was also called as Lakhey Ji Garhi. The raised flat of Lakhey Ja Kanda in Khirthar are also famous for Wheat cultivation and calls of doves. Writing about Dost Ali and Hassan Lakho Fort, A. W.Hughes in his Gazetteer of Sind 1876 writes that, At one mile pass Lakhan-Jo-Goth, with two wells, and a small mud fort. Shahdadpur formerly a large town. (Page 912)

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MUHABAT KHOSO FORT Muhabat Khan Khoso was also a minister of Mian Abdul Nabi Kalhoro. He also built a fort in the south west of Shahdadkot. It was called Muhbat Khose Ja Kot. Koor Muhabat Khoso is named after him which flows in the neighborhood of Khaber village on Shahdadkot-Bago Daro Road. Mian Abdul Nabi Kalhoro visited Khosa chief many times JAFFER KALHORO FORT In June 1839, Jaffer Kalhoro was a small village 2 miles in the north of Dost Ali. The village of Machhi was on its right. These were the Machhis who fought with the Army of Nadir Shah in 1740 AD near Shahdadkot. In the year 1839 there was one kacha well, the country was covered with Tamarisk Jungle, but the road was good. The ruins of old Bahram were near this. A pillar was here in the memory of its overthrow. The distance was over a level Ran or Plain with a good road. The ruins of old Bahram were 5 miles distant from village Jaffer Kalhoro and Machhi. Lieutenant Hugh James (1847) calls this fort as Jaffier Kalorah in 1847. SHAHOO CHANDIO FORT Shahoo Chandia fort consisted on a few huts outside of the fort, and a fine tope of trees with one well. (Routes and Stages in Scinde, Bombay 1846, Page 108) It has been also called as Shaw Chandia Fort in some texts of Sindh History. After the decline of Shahoo Chandio fort, the descendents of Shahoo Khan Chandio founded a new village on Shahdadkot Kamber road which is now known as Shahan Pahatak. Chandio tribe played important role in the history of Kalhora period. Like other Baloch chiefs, Misri Khan Chandio also served the Talpurs. He laid foundation of Village Tando Misri Khan Chandio in the north of Shahdadkot. BAHRAM FORT Lieutenant Robert Leech, in 1837 says that Khokhar Jagir was located to the west of Hyderabad, about 7 Koss, called Bagad. Their Sardar was Ghulam Hyder Khokhar (died 1845). His father Bira Khan Khokar sided Talpurs in the battle of Halani in 1783. They could muster 1000 strong men. Nawab Bahadur Khan Khokhar was cousin of Ghualm Hyder Khokhar. The Nawab was appointed Governor of Larkana after the death of Nawab Wali Muhammad Khan Leghari. Mir Murad Ali Khan Talpur honored Nawab Bahadur Khokhar heartily. Nawab was entitled as Ameer Kabir. In 1832-33, Hyderabad Amirs sent Nawab Bahadur as envoy to Shah Shuja-ul-Mulk, who had ceded Moghali near Shikarpur. The Afghan king took with him to Kandhar. On the occasion of his return to Sindh he was warmly welcomed by Mir Hassan Ali Khan Talpur, his father Mir Naseer Khan Talpur and other chiefs. Sirai Bahram Khan Khokhar was a close relative of Nawab Bahadur Khan Khokhar. He was called in by Nawab Bahadur Khokhar many times regarding district. He also fought many battles from Talpur side. After the battle of Halani, he was stationed at Old Bahram 7 Km in the south west of Shahdadkot. There, he constructed a mud fort and dug Koor Bahram Khokhar from Noor Wah. He obtained Jagir from Noor Wah to Qubo Saeed Khan Area. The old Bahram was destroyed by floods. Therefore he once again, laid foundation of the town, which was locally called as Bahram Mathiyon. The modern town of Bahram Mathiyon on Shahdadkot Kamber Road is also named after him. Bahram Khan Khokhar had 7 sons named Sirai Chaker Khan, Mir Dhingano Khan, Mir Muhammad Bachal, Sirai Ghulam Hussain and Mir Wali Muhammad. While names of two sons are not known. The Bahram fort was spread on 4 Jarebs of land and it was guarded by 4 towers on each corner. The fort had a large wooden gate on its south. This fort was washed away in the great flood of 1942. Khokhar, Chandio, Khaskheli, Manganhar, and Soomra castes lived in old Bahram but now only Khokhars dwell on this location. Toto Mal and Chetoo Mal were famous shopkeepers of the village. Diwan Revo Mal owned lands near Bahram. His village is called Revey Ji Wandh. Presently the descendents of Bahram Khan Khokhar live in Bahram, Shahdadkot, Larkana, Nawabshah and Karachi. Sirai Ghulam Hussain Khokhar possessed the swords of Bahram Khan Khokhar which were lost during evacuation of the floods. BRAHAM: A moderate sized village with a good mud fort, one pucka well and one kutcha in the village outside of the fort, and four more in the watercourse on the west side of the town; few supplies; water is scarce, a deficiency of rain having occurred for the three last years, but the last in particular. This is the village nearest to the Runn, and in the direct and narrowest part of it, the road cross from it to Shadeehar is a well marked way. The inhabitants were reported at Dostalee, and by the guides to the lawless and predatory, and their head man and others were there in hiding until the army should pass, as they had been lately engaged in plundering the Bengal Army.

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(Route from Larkhana in Scinde to Dadur Via Jhull, Gundava, and Shoran, Measured with Perambulator, by the Head Draftsman of the Quarter Master Generals Office, in the Month of March 1839: Routes and Stages in Scinde, Bombay 1846, Page 108). Another Medical Officer of Indian Army, returning from Kachhi Gundava to Larkana narrates, At Kotra, we remained till the 10th OF December, when having detached pn, the two guns of the Bombay Horse Artillery, to Sukkur, General Willshire with the Queen;s and 17th , marched direct upon Larkhanu, retracing nearly, our steps of preceding year. Halted one day at Ketchee, on the borders of the desert, where we were overtaken by the Kafila with supplies and sick carriage, sent up from Sukkur. The following evening, 14th, we marched half way across the desert, and pitched, having sent on plenty of water upon camels, and next day reached Bahram, on the opposite or Scinde side. This time, we found the distance across, only twenty eight miles, having kept the direct course, and by making two marches, felt it no more than ordinary marching. At Bahram, we found water both scant and muddy; moved on the following day, and reached Larkhanu, on the 18th, where we encamped on some dusty ground, close to a large square mud fort; to the west of the village or town. (Transactions of the Medical and Physical Society of Bombay 1840, Pages 168-169) BAHRAM: -A village in Scinde, on the route from Larkhana to Gundava, and twenty five, miles north-west of the former place. (Gazetteer of Sind, Afghanistan, Beloochistan and the Punjab: Compiled by Edward Thornton, London 1844, Page 65)

Sindhi farmers outside their village

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FORT OF SHAHDADKOT The name of Mian Shahdad Khan Khuhawar appears in the Kalhora history as one of the commanders of the army. Shahdad Khan Khuhawar was the disciple of Mian Noor Muhammad Kalhoro. Like Shahdad Khan Khuhawar, his brother Mian Bhambho Khan Khuhawar, also served the Kalhora rulers. An old graveyard is located in the north of Shahdadkot city which is called Bhambhey Jo Muqam by the local people. The thin burnt bricks of the grave of Bhambho Khan Khuhawar are still visible in the graveyard. According to the writings of Mahraj Gopi Krishan (1910-1992), both of these brothers were close relatives of the elders of the Khuhawars of village Mir Ji Nari. He is believed to have fought bravely in battles fought Afghans & the Brahuis. He was also appointed to administer the area which was under dominion on Sindh-Kalat border. He founded the town of Shahdadpur during the reign of Mian Yar Muhammad Kalhoro. He also built a mud fort to protect the town. Later on, during the period of British Government, Shahdadpur was renamed as Shahdadkot in 1914. He dug Shahdad Wah from Koor Dato to irrigate his lands. This canal flows till these days and irrigates Khuhawars lands.
The tomb of Mian Shahdad Khan Khuhawar in the Royal Graveyard of Mian Noor Muhammad Kalhoro-Daulatpur district Nawabshah, Sindh

Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro, PhD Scholar writes in his Article entitled The Role of Khuhawar Tribe during Kalhora Rule in Sindh, Historicus, the Quarterly Journal of the Pakistan Historical Society, Published by Hamdard Foundation Pakistan, Karachi, JulyDecember 2010, No. 3 & 4 that, The grave of Shahdad Khan Khuhawar is situated in the graveyard of Mian Noor Muhammad Kalhoro 15 Km in the south of Daulatpur in Nawabshah district, Sindh (Page 124). Previously, Dr. Nabi Bux Khan Baloch, Dr. Qureshi Hamid Ali Khanai, Mahraj Gopi Krishan Shringi, Manzoor Kohiar, Muhammad Aslam Sheikh, Wali Muhammad Manganhar and Din Muhammad Kalhoro highlighted the life and works of Mian Shahdad Khan Khuhawar in their writings.

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A letter sent to the Bombay Government to the Secret Committee, 16 April 1839 shows that, on the 4th ultimo, his Excellency Sir John Keane assumed command of the army of the Indus, and issued a general order, a copy of which is enclosed, The Bombay division marched from Larkhana on the 12th ultimo to Kunmur, 15 miles. On the 13th, to Dost Ali, 10 miles. On the 14th, to Shadodpore, 15 miles; halted on the 15th to prepare for crossing the Desert, which was accomplished on the night of the 16th, the distance being about 30 miles. This Desert is described to be a level, hard plain, with a few stunted bushes here and there, but without a blade of grass or sign of vegetation, and entirely devoid of water. The force halted on the 17th, and on 18th proceeded to Jhul, a distance of upwards of 20 miles. It again halted on the 21st reached Cutch Gundava, 12 miles, situated at the base of the Kelat Mountains. (Indian Papers: Papers relating to the War in Afghanistan, Presented to Parliament by her Majestys Command, Ordered by the House of Commons, 21 January 1840, Page 9). "The Third March brought us to Shadadpore: The country for the last twenty miles was more like the dry bed of a salt lagoon in an interval betwixt spring-tides, then an inland district; only two or three miserable villages were found in this dreary region, and even these were abandoned by the inhabitants, who, in ignorance of British discipline, apprehended the excesses of a native army. On the evening of the 14th General Willshire's brigade marched to cross the desert; some unlucky loss of road occasioned delay and fatigue, and the infantry brigade did not reach its destination till the next day at past two in the afternoon, having made ma march exceeding thirty miles". (Narrative of the Campaign of the Indus Army in Sind and Kaubool, by R.H.Kennedy, London 1840 Page 189) Lieutenant General Sir James Outram, 1st Baronet GCB KSI (29 January 1803 11 March 1863) was an English general who fought in the Indian Rebellion of 1857, and is considered a British hero. He fought in First Anglo Afghan War, Battle of Ghazni, Anglo Persian War, Battle of Khushab, Indian Rebellion of 1857 and Siege of Lucknow. He also served as Chief Commissioner of Oudh, India. Describing Larkana, Kamber, Dost Ali and Shahdadkot situation during first Anglo Afghan War he writes, 12th. Sir John Keane and staff marched with a detachment, consisting of Horse Artillery, 1st Bombay Cavalry, and a wing of the 19th Regiment Bombay N.I. to Kumbar, fifteen miles; until within three miles of the halting ground, the road generally threaded channel of a dry canal, except in a few places, where the sand was so heavy as to oblige us to ascend the sides, which are not less than thirty feet high, and mostly very steep: the average width of this canal is about sixty feet, and along both sides, there are innumerable wells, from which the water is raised by means of the Persian Wheel. There are several small villages on either bank, and many visible also in the distance, but the intermediate country is chiefly covered with low tamarisk jungle. (Page 53) A flat-bottomed boat, about thirty feet in length, was lying in the dry bed of the canal, about the middle of our march-a proof that, when filled, it is navigable for this description of craft. A new feature in the landscape at Larkhana, and around every village on this march, presented itself, in the numerous date trees, which had no heretofore in any numbers appeared in our route through Sinde. The natives of this country have not acquired the art of tapping the date tree, nor does it appear to be of use in any way, the fruit never coming to maturity. (Page 54) 13th. Ten miles, over a level plain, as smooth as bowling-green, with scarcely any villages or cultivation, but occasionally exhibiting clumps of stunted tamarisk. Last night, about twenty of the Government camels were carried off by men hired to take care of them. We passed eight or ten dead camels, which had been left by the brigade that had preceded us; several of our own also died of a contagious disease, which appears to have broken out amongst them.(Page 54)
Ghazni-1839

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"14th.A March of fourteen miles. Stayed in the rear to ascertain whether any more camels had been taken off during the night, and was glad to find that the precautions adopted since yesterday had proved effectual-no further desertion having taken place. The villages on this route, together with that at our encamping ground, have been deserted for the last two months from a dread of the Khelat Beloches who have ravaged this frontier, since it was left unprotected by the Sindian Garrisons Stationed for their protection, but who were summoned to Hyderabad when opposition to us was contemplated, and have not yet returned. The wells are few in number, and from not having been lately drawn the water is at first very bad, though it improves as it is taken out. Great difficulty is experienced in watering so many horses and camels, but we are nevertheless obliged to halt here in order to refresh the letter, previously to crossing a desert of thirty miles in extent which now lies before us. Curbee in abundance is found at all the deserted villages in the neighbourhood. By some accident the village unfortunately took fire, and being surrounded and filled with combustible matter, it was found impossible to subdue the flames, which blazed the whole night. Being totally without inhabitants, nothing of any value could have been destroyed, but the affair will doubtless be magnified by the tongue of report, and our credit in the country will suffer accordingly". (Rough Notes of the Campaign in Sinde and Afghanistan in 1838-39 by Captain James Outram, Bombay 1840, PP 45, 46 & 47). The above description of Captain James Outram tells us that Shahdadkot was the last town on Sindh border. Robert Leech says in 1837 that Shahdadkot was guarded by 1000 Jamali soldiers who belonged to Mir Sobdar Khan Talpur, the prince of Sindh. Their leader was Muhammad Hassan Jamali. In their absence, mountain robbers plundered it brutally. At the arrival of Outram there were 2 wells in Shahdadkot and on the same night it caught fire from the dry reeds of Curbi grown in the fields.

The fort of Shahdadpur or Shahdadkot is shown by Lieutenant Hugh James in his Report on the Purguna of Chandookah-1847

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The First Anglo-Afghan War was fought between the British East India Company and Afghanistan from 1839 to 1842, which resulted in the deaths of 4,500 British and Indian soldiers, plus 12,000 of their camp followers by the warring Afghan tribal fighters. It was one of the first major conflicts during the Great Game, the 19th century competition for power and influence in Asia between the United Kingdom and Russia. An army of 21,000 British and Indian troops under the command of John Keane, 1st Baron Keane set out from Punjab in December 1838. Brigadier Wilshire, Brigadier Gordon and Brigadier Scot led 28350 soldiers from Sindh. 2600 camels were sent forward along with grain. While next 455 camels were also sent to Afghanistan later. With them was William Hay Macnaghten, the former chief secretary of the Calcutta Government, who had been selected as Britain's Chief Representative to Kabul. By late March 1839, the British forces had crossed the Bolan Pass, reached the Afghan city of Quetta, and begun their march to Kabul. They advanced through rough terrain, across deserts and 4,000-metre-high mountain passes, but made good progress and finally set up camps at Kandahar on 25 April 1839. On 22 July 1839, in a surprise attack, the British-led forces captured the fortress of Ghazni, which overlooks a plain leading eastward into the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. An Afghan had betrayed his sovereign, and the British troops managed to blow up one city gate and marched into the city in a euphoric mood. In taking this fortress, they suffered 200 men killed and wounded, while the Afghans lost nearly 500 men. 1,600 Afghans were taken prisoner with an unknown number wounded. Ghazni was well supplied, which eased the further advance considerably. Following this, the British achieved a decisive victory over Dost Mohammad's troops, led by one of his sons. Dost Mohammad fled with his loyal followers across the passes to Bamyan, and ultimately to Bukhara. In August 1839, after almost 30 years, Shah Shuja was again enthroned in Kabul. On November 13, 1839, while en route to India, the Bombay column attacked, as a form of reprisal, the Baluchi tribal fortress of Kalat, from where Baloch tribes had harassed and attacked British convoys during the move towards the Bolan Pass. After this incident Sir Charles Napier conquered Sindh in 1843. Describing Shahdadpur or Shahdadkot Lieutenant Hugh James says, To the west, on either bank of the Datah Canal, the marks of former cultivation are very striking. Shahdadpoor, on its west bank, was a large town, from which Lord Keane drew supplies for his army when advancing on Afghanistan, but now a ruin, and when I visited it in September 1846, an old Hindu was its sole occupant. Report on the Purguna of Chandookah in Upper Sindh Compiled by Lieutenant Hugh James 44th Regiment Bengal N.I, Late Deputy Collector Shikarpoor, Submitted to Government on the 31st December 1847, Page 713) Two miles to the west of the mouth of the Shah is that of the Datah Canal, which takes its name from one Datah Kohawur, who excavated it in the reign of Noor Muhammad Kalhora, and of whom honorable mention will presently be made. It is finest artificial canal in Upper Sind, and flows in a north-westerly direction to the frontier of Kutchee. Thick belts of babool trees clothe its banks for many miles, and even now the cultivation there is extensive. Beyond, however, it is but the record of past prosperity, and north of Shahdadpoor not a beega is under tillage. In A.D. 1840, the District of Nalah Datah was sold in contract for one season to Futteh Chund for Rs.1, 00,000, and he expended Rs. 7,000 on cleaning the canal. Report on the Purguna of Chandookah in Upper Sindh Compiled by Lieutenant Hugh James 44th Regiment Bengal N.I, Late Deputy Collector Shikarpoor, Submitted to Government on the 31st December 1847, Page 717) Sirai Pir Bux Khan Khuhawar-I, was a local tribal chief and he descended from Mian Dato Khuhawar who was a celebrated minister of Mian Yar Muhammad Kalhoro (1701-1719) and his son Mian Noor Muhammad Kalhoro(1719-1753), the rulers of Sindh . Sirai Pir Bux Khan Khuhawar-I was a socio-political and public spirited landlord. He had close relations with Sir John Keane was Commander In chief of British Army. Sir John Keane drew supplies from Shahdadkot for his Army on advancing towards Afghanistan, during first Anglo Afghan War in 1840. During that time Shahdadkot was badly hit by River Indus floods and everything was washed away in the whole area. Another important friend of Khanbahadur Pir Bux Khan Khuhawar-I, was General John Jacob who established many out posts to protect Upper Sindh Frontier from mountain robbers. These outposts guarded the border from 1839 to 1858 through Dost Ali, Shahdadkot, Garhi Khero, Rojhan, Khangarh (Jacobabad), Dilmurad, Garhi Hassan, Tangwani, Kandh Kot, Kumri and Kashmore posts. He constructed roads, bridges and canals to develop Garhi Khero, Shahdadkot, Kamber and Larkana areas and brought peace and trade in a turmoil conditions in the land. General John Jacob of Jacobabad died in 1858. Khan Bahadur Sirai Pir Bux Khan Khuhawar-I had built 2 mud forts in Shahdadkot for his family. His son Muhammad Ali Khan Khuhawar built a fort in village Karira in the south of Shahdadkot on Shahdadkot Kamber Road. His another son Gul Muhammad Khuhawar also built a fort.

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After 1858 Khan Bahadur Pir Bakhsh Khan Khuhawar-I took initiatives to rehabilitate Shahdadkot town. He also brought illustrious saint and scholar Mian Noor Muhammad Mekan, his family members, disciples and other Hindu traders from Village Kanda / Balochistan to Mirokhan on 60 Bullock carts and made arrangements for their houses in the town. Soon after, Shahdadkot was again hit by a great flood disaster in 1874. According to A.W. Hughes, Shahdadpur was a Government town in Kamber taluka of the Larkana Deputy Collectorate in 1874 and, distant about 30 miles north-north-west from Larkana. It was seated on the west bank of the Dato-Ji-Kur Canal, and had road communications with Kamber, Garhi Khairo Jamali, and Hamal, and was the Head-quarter Station of a Tapadar. The population, in number was about 783, comprised 464 Muslims of the Pirzada, Kalhora, Lashari, Sial, Magsi and Muhana tribes. The remainder (319) being Hindus. The chief man of note in this place was Pir Bakhsh Khuhawar, a very influential and public spirited Zamindar, who had done much towards raising this town to its former prosperity. (Gazetteer of the Province of Sind: Compiled by A.W.Hughes, F.R.G.S., F.S, Bombay UNCOV Civil Service, London George Bell and Sons, York Street, Covent Garden , 1876). A Certificate was awarded to Khanbahadur Sirai Pir Bux Khan Khuhawar- I, in the name of Her Majesty Queen Victoria, Empress of India by Governor General of Bombay and Viceroy of India on 1st January 1878 AD for his loyalty and good service as a landholder of Sindh. In 1883-84, Shahdadkot was made a taluka of Upper Sindh Frontier/ Jacobabad District. It comprised 55 villages. The old name of Shahdadkot was Shahdadpur. The name of the town was changed in 1914 owing to the confusion caused by the existence of another town of the same name in Nawabshah District. A Kot belonging to the Khuhawars once existed on the site of the present town. (Gazetteer of the Province of Sind: Upper Sind Frontier / Jacobabad District, Compiled by J.W. Smyth, Bombay 1919, Page31-32) The fort of Shahdadkot was washed away in the floods of 1849 and 1874. The town was again destroyed by River Indus floods in 1942, 1948 and 2010.

Map of Shahdadpur or Shahdadkot Taluka , Upper Sindh Frontier District 1882, 1903 & 1908, Printed at Poona 1910

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The density of population works out at only 56.7, but it must be borne in mind that west of the Edan Canal there are no settled villages, and that the people of the Sir and the Mountains are nomadic in their habits. The Hindus are only 9.1 percent of the population, and twothirds of them support themselves by trade in the town of Shahdadkot. The Muhammadans are either Baluchis or Sindhis (Jamots). The main Baluch tribes are the Jamalis, Chandias and Magsis. They are very old fashioned in their ways and take little interest in improving their lands. The Jamalis are for the most part in debt. The Chandias and the Magsis are hereditary enemies and the main preoccupation of the both tribes is to keep the feud alive. The Sindhis are reasonably good farmers, though the standard of farming is distictly below that in the adjoining taluka of Jacobabad, and the biggest zamindar of the taluka, Sirai Muhammad Bakhsh Khuhawar does not set the others a good example in the personal management of his estates. (Revision Settlement Report of the Shahdadkot Taluka of the Upper Frontier District Compiled by J.W.Smyth, Deputy Commissioner Upper Sind Frontier District, Jacobabad 24th April 1920, Page 2) Sirai Muhammad Bux Khan Khuhawar was the son of Khanbahadur Pir Bux Khan Khuhawar-I. He died in 1932 at Shahdadkot. He left behind 6 sons named 1) Khanbahadur Pir Bux Khan Khuhawar-II 2) Rais Feroz Khan Khuhawar 3) Rais Yar Muhammad Khan Khuhawar 4) Rais Wajid Ali Khan Khuhawar 5) Rais Safdar Ali Khan Khuhawar and 6) Rais Imdad Hussain Khan Khuhawar. Most of them were philanthropists and played their vital role in the development of Shahdadkot. Almost all of them had built small forts around their Havelis and residences. SHAHO JAMALI FORT Mir Shaho Khan Jamali was tribal chief of different clans of Jamli Balochis. He led following Jamali clans 1) Rohaliyani 2)Nahrani 3) Sobdarani 4) Suhriyani 5)Thondwani 6)Bhandani 7) Babwani and 8) Meirani. These Jamalis originally belonged to Dadu district but later moved towards Gurg Kot. From here they moved to present Shahpur, a deserted mound and village in the north of Shahdadkot. In 1193 AH/ 1779 AD, the Jamalis against Afghan invaders along with Talpur, Marri, Khuhawar, Chandia, Jamali, Thahim, Jalbani and Silra warriors. Mir Bijar Khan Talpur led 18,000 forces from Abdul Nabi Kalhoro and fought against the 30,000 Army of Mian Izatyar Khan Kalhoro and Mahfooz Khan Afghan. Mehfooz Khan was the commander of Temur Shah, the Afghan King. This battle was fought near Naushehro Abro and Garhi Yasin in which Afghans were defeated. Some of the fallen soldiers like Sahib Khan Thahim and Dilawar Khan Thahim were buried near village Dakhan. Their tombs are called Bohi Ja Quba, and were built by the wives of the killed soldiers in 1781. While Bhando Qubo, according to Henry Cousins, was built in the year 1740 near Ratodero. Syed Sabit Ali Shah Sabit Sewistani composed epic of this battle in his Persian work Zaffer Nama. When the crises grew in Sindh, the Talpur chiefs came to Mir Shaho Khan Jamali for his moral and military support. On this the Mir promised Talpurs for the support on the day of battlefield. When this news reached to Mian Abdul Nabi Kalhoro, the last prince of Sindh, he also came to visit Jamali chief but he refused to support him as he had already promised the Talpurs. Mir Shaho Khan Jamali was son of Sakhi Sobdar Khan Jamali and grandson of Mitha Khan Jamali. The historic tombs of Sakhi Sobdar Khan Jamali, his uncle Moulvi Bhai Khan Jamali and his son Gul Muhammad Khan Jamali situated in the north of Shahdadkot beside ruined Imam Bux Jamali village. The supreme flood of August 2010 washed these tombs and nothing is left now on the ground. It is said that Sakhi Sobdar Khan Jamali was killed with his 16 men by Sardar Dili Jan Khan Kalper/ Bugti and his party consisted upon 180 men on the matter of Cattle-lifting which was very common in those days. Sakhi Sobdar Khan Jamali finally killed Sardar Dili Jan Khan Kalper with his famed sword named Marvi, which was later taken up by the Bugtis. These tombs were built by Mir Shaho Khan Jamali and Mai Bachi Jamali, the only surviving relatives of the killed with Camel Milk and thin baked bricks. This battle took place round about 1230 AH/ 1815 AD. In 1783, a fierce battle took place between Mian Abdul Nabi Kalhoro and Mir Fateh Ali Khan Talpur at Hallani. Mir Shaho Khan Jamali under the leadership of his tribal chief Mir Sobdar Khan Jamlali joined Talpur forces and fought with great bravery and swordsmanship. His brothers Hamal Khan, Bijar Khan, Eso Khan and Juwalan Khan did not take part in the battlefield. During battle he killed Sohoo Abdar, who was a beloved courtier of Mian Abdul Nabi Kalhoro. He seized his sword, armor and rifle. When Mir Fateh Ali Khan Talpur came to know this news he asked the proof from Mir Shaho Khan Jamali. The Mir took out the bleeding head from his horse bag and showed it to the victorious chief. Mir Fateh Ali Khan Talpur demanded weapons of Sohoo Abdar from Mir Shaho Khan Jamali but he refused to hand over such belongings to him. Seeing bravery of Jamali chief, Mir Fateh Ali Khan Talpur bestowed upon him a Jagir in the north of Shahdadkot, where Shaho Jamali village stands today. When Mir Shaho Khan Jamali came to occupy this Jagir he kicked

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out Gadahi and Korai tribes who served the Kalhoras. The Jamalis also dealt Sindhi Khand tribe with hard hand. After this the Mir founded village Shaho Khan Jamali on the banks of Edan Wah and dug out a new canal named Hidav Wah to irrigate his Jagir lands. Mir Shaho Khan Jamali gave share of his Jagir to his brothers who didnt take part in the battle of Halani. He also distributed lands among Chodha and Marri-Jarwar castes living in Shahdadkot. Mir Shaho Khan Jamali built a mud fort for his residence on 8 Jarebs.

Shaho Jamali surrounded by fields and water tanks

According to Lieutenant Robert Leech in 1837 AD, The Jamalees are under two leaders, Shahoo under Meer Mahomed of Hyderabad, and Jafar Khan under Meer Naseer Khan; they can muster together 4000 men, they live on the borders of the Nara, they give their daughters in marriage to the Talpoors. (Page 72).This reference provides us important and valuable information regarding marriage ties of Jamalis of Shaho Jamali and Talpur Amirs of Sindh. Mir Shaho Khan Jamali had 2 large drums which were beaten at the time of battle. General John Jacob (1812-1858) has also mentioned Shaho Jamali in his book.

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In A.D.1842, just before the conquest, Meer Shahdad, in whose country, as above shown, it was situated, sent an order for Rs. 10,000 to be expended on its clearance, but this was never carried out, but this was never carried out. The villages , in consequences, upon its banks, are mostly in ruins, and one of the largest, that of Shahoo Jamalee, is chiefly dependent for its means of irrigation on the water brought by cuts from some low land to the west, supplied by the rain-water from the hills. Report on the Purguna of Chandookah in Upper Sindh Compiled by Lieutenant Hugh James 44th Regiment Bengal N.I, Late Deputy Collector Shikarpoor, Submitted to Government on the 31st December 1847, Page 717). In 1876, village Shaho Jamali was situated seven and a half mile from Shahdadkot. It had a mud fort and two wells. At ten miles was village of Shahpur, which was a half a mile off the road. (Page 912). Mir Shaho Khan Jamali had a son called Mir Sobdar Khan who was killed by the Bugtis. Shaheed Sobdar Khan was blessed with a son who came to known as Malak Shaho Khan. Maitland in his Journey from Jacobabad to Panjgur, 1882 writes about Gandakha and Mir Shaho Khan Jamlali that, Friday, 25th November.-Halted. Shooting. Gandakha is a fair sized village on slightly raised ground at the edge of the Jheel, which terminates about a mile below. There is a bridge here over the Sirwah. Banks of canal to Kaira Garhi are said to be too broken on both sides for riding. Seems strange the left bank should be impracticable. This place is said to be so called from having been destroyed by an earthquake in ancient times. The Zamindar is Shah Khan Jamali. Jamalis altogether 2,500 men; half in British territory. Chief is Din Mahomed of Rojan. (Diary of a Journey from Jacobabad to Panjgur and Exploration of Eastern Mekran 1881-82, By Captain P.J. Maitland, Government Central Branch Press 1883, Page 2) God blessed Malak Shaho Khan Jamali with a son Sardar Sobdar Khan-II (died 1939), who led the tribe nicely. He had a son Wadero Shaho Khan-III (died 1959). He had 2 sons; 1) Mir Gaman Khan and 2) Mir Abdul Qadir Khan. Mir Gaman Khan Jamali have4 sons; Ghulam Hussain Khan, Ahsanullah Khan, Sabir Hussain Khan and Samiullah Khan. While Mir Abdul Qadir Khan Jamali has 8 sons; Shakir Hussain Khan, Ibrar Hussain Khan, Zia Hussain Khan, Aziz Hussain Khan, Majid Hussain Khan, Atif Hussain Khan, Farukh Hussain Khan and Yasir Hussain Khan. After the death of Mir Ahmed Nawaz Khan Jamali his eldest son Mir Sardar Khan Jamali became chief of Shahozai family in 1955. This chief lives in Gandakaha town of Balochistan. Wadero Sardar Khan Jamali of Gandakha holds 10,000 Jarebs of land in Gandakha, Shaho Jamali, Ghulam Muhammad Jamali, Imam Bux Jamali, Hazzar Wah and Beroon. Mir Gaman Khan Jamali possessed 1500 Jarebs while Mir Abdul Qadir Khan Jamali has 2000 agricultural lands in Sindh and Balochistan. Mir Tillan Khan Jamali has 500 Jarebs of land. The Shahozai Jamalis of Sindh and Balochistan hold round about 6000 Jarebs of agricultural lands. The elders of Shahozais had married from Gopang, Juneja and Brohi tribes. Most of the Shahozais are Shia due to Talpur influence and marriage relations. Their religious guides are Pirs of Ranipur, district Khairpur Sindh. They have also great respect for Rodo Pir of Mirpur Khas. KOT GOLO KHUHAWAR FORT Mian Golo Khuhawar was a descendent of Mian Dato Khuhawar, a celebrated minister of Mian Noor Yar Muhammad Kalhoro and Mian Noor Muhammad Kalhoro, the rulers of Sindh. Mian Gul Mohammad Khuhawar who was the grandson of Mian Gajji ordered it. He also served as a minister during the Talpur dynasty most probably during the rule of Mir Karam Ali Khan Talpur. Like him, Mian Murad Ali Khuhawar (founder of Tando Murad Ali Khuhawar) and his brother Mian Golo Khan Khuhawar also served the Amirs of Sindh. He dug a canal which is now known as Golo Wah. He also built a fort on Shahdadkot-Dost Ali Road. It is known as Kot Golo Khuhawar. He held fertile lands from Shahdadkot to Zar in the south west of Qubo Saeed Khan. Mian Golo Khuhawar had two sons; 1) Sultan Khan Khuhawar and 2) Khuda Bux Khan Khuhawar. Both the brothers lived in village Ghaloo, Taluka Kamber in the Larkana Deputy Collectorate. They possessed 378 Jarebs of agricultural lands on Ghar Wah and Koor Dato. Both of the brothers took loans from Hindu brokers named Sobha Singh, Jeo Singh, Ghuman Mal, residents of village Sono Jatoi/ Larkana and Pariyo and Thadho, residents of Village Sangi/ Larkana. When Khuhawar brothers did not pay timely the Hindu brokers

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tried to usurp their lands. It caused a dispute and in this way they submitted application to the Deputy Collector Larkana. The application of this case was submitted on 10th September 1877, the order of enquiry dated 20th September 1877, and the report received from Collector of Larkana on 21st August 1878. According to the findings Sultan Khan Khuhawar had 2 Mares (Value Rs.130), 2 Goats (Rs. 3), 3 Buffaloes (Rs. 120), 2 Cows (Rs.20), 1 Bullocks (Rs.15), 12 Goats (Rs. 15), 27 Miscellaneous Articles (Rs.59). They had 357 Jarebs of land in Deh Khaberiro Taluka Kamber having a value Rs. 5351. While their dwelling valued Rs. 200). In this way the total value of Sultan Khan Khuhawar property was 5561 Rupees. In taluka Miro Khan, Deh Golo Khan Khuhawar and Golo Wah are named after Mian Golo Khuhawar. While his fort was situated within Shahdadkot taluka which is no more today. It is said that one of the Talpur Amirs of Sindh asked Mian Golo Khuhawar for his daughters hand for marriage. On this forcible demand, he left the service of Talpurs forever. He is said to be buried on Thariri Lahori Kot close to Silra and Gabar Kalhoro villages. MIRPUR BURIRO FORT Mirpur Buriro was also a fort like village of mud huts. Like Thul, Mirpur Buriro was also the territory of Mir Ali Murad Khan Talpur (1842-1894), the Ruler of Khairpur State in Sindh. The Buriro is a Sindhi tribe. The people of the tribe speak Sindhi. Their Chief Sardar is Sardar Sadam Hussain Khan Buriro is the recent chief of the Buriro tribe. The Buriro tribe lives in Sukkur, Jacobabad, Khairpur Mirs, Thul, Mirpur Buriro, Chanadan, Miranpur Buriro, Garhi Khairo, Qubo Saeed Khan, Shahdadkot,Ghaibidero, Kamber, Larkana, Warah, Bug Buriro, Khairpur Nathan Shah, and Dadu areas. The important villages of this tribe in Larkana, Kamber Shahdadkot and Dadu districts are; Saboo Buriro, Zar, Muhaari, Mirpur Buriro, Korhh Burira, Mula Hamzo Buriro, Muhammad Siddique Buriro, Dinar Buriro, Shalo Buriro, Mal, Khenji/Wahandri, Qazi, Khandoo. Some of the Buriro families are also settled in UAE, Saudi Arabia, Iraq and Jordan. Buriros in Khirthar Range are divided into many sub-castes 1) Dinarani 2) Jhalani 3)Derani 4) Qasmani 5)Ghaghrani 6)Menani 7)Shahalyani 8) Sandani 9)Jalalani and 10) Tharai. Muhammad Urs Buriro killed a Tiger with rifle in Chhiti Nai area in 1976 Monsoon. Rais Dinar Khan Buriro was associated with Nawab Sir Ghaibi Khan Chandio. Mirpur Buriro faced floods in 2007 and 2010.

Village Mirpur Buriro in Qubo Saeed Khan Taluka

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KOT GORGAGE FORT Gorgage is one of prominent Baloch tribes mainly dwelling in Iran, Afghanistan and Pakistan. The Gorgage served under the Talpurs of Sindh. In Union Council Jamali, Taluka Shahdadkot, they had built a mud fort which stands with the name of Baharo Gurgage. The area of this fort was 4 Jarebs and its walls were 8 feet wide. The fort had 4 towers. It had one gate that opened in the south direction. According to Faqir Manzoor Ali Mahesar it was the last village of Talpur Amirs on the frontier of Sindh. It is said that the According to a local story this fort was guarded by one of the chiefs of Talpurs Rulers. He was aged and he had no child. Later on, God blessed him with a son. On this happy occasion he arranged a celebration. He spent too much and fed the guests during the invitation. He rewarded Traditional Birth Attendant with jewels. He also gave charity to the beggars. When the news arrived to the Amis of Sindh they became suspicious and decided to punish the chief. Knowing this the chief of this fort took his family members, mounted the camels and rode to unknown place. The fort was destroyed by the1942 flood. Some of its remains are still visible in Deh Gorgage. DHING FORT According to Lieutenant Robert Leech in 1837, The Khosas under Hyderabad Government are under two Sardars Jam Chutta and Alam Khan; their Jaghires are situated to the south of Larkhana at a place called Bosan, they amount to 1300 men. There are also 1500 in the Jull, under the Hyderabad Government, called Parkaree Khosas or Jarwars. (Page 73) At the time of the conquest of Sindh by the British in 1843, Sardar Alam Khan Khoso had lands in Larkana and Baghban which were granted to him again. He died in 1849-50. He left behind a son called Sardar Rajo Khan Khoso. In 1854, Sir Bartle Frere re-granted him Jagir of 502 Beega in Deh Thul of Larkana. This Deh was replaced later as Dhing Deh Limo Junejo and Jagir (400 Beega) was called Thull Tukra, which is now known as Dhing Jo Thul. A fort was built by the Kalhora Rulers of Sindh in this village which was repaired by the Talpurs later. A burnt brick tower of that fort still exists in the center of the village till this day. The fort was built on a raised ground to protect the Sindh border villages. KOT KARIRA FORT It is said that Karira is a sub-caste of Kalhora tribe living in Sindh. The Kariras were disciples and followers of Mian Dato Khuhawar. One of their chiefs had built a mud fort in the northwest of Shahdadkot on Sindh Balochistan frontier. Describing situation of Kot Karira fort in the River Indus floods, General John Jacob writes in his Record Book of Sind Irregular Horse, Vol: II 1851-1855 that, After the construction of the Bund this Leyt merely affected the Anduranie lands, though the Beheranie were at times also swept by hill torrents, which coming down by Samee, two or three miles distant from Kyra Ke Ghurree, rushed uncontrolled past Kot Khanah (noe a ruined fort situated on the tail of the Dattah Ki Koor), and disdaining to rest with river water at Sawer, became lost in the Munchur Lake. (Page 258). The important villages of this tribe are Sobho Kariro, Karira (Wada), Mitho Kariro and Ghulam Muhammad Kariro. On Larkana-Shahdadkot Railway Line, Ghulam Muhammad Kariro was famous Railway Station. It was located somewhere around Golo Wah on Shahdadkot Kamber Road. KOT CHATOO FORT Chhatoo Jo Kot was built by a Hindu named Diwan Chhtoo Mal near Imam Bux Jamali. The village Imam Bux Jamali located some 18 Km northwest of Shahdadkot. It is named after its founder Imam Bux Jamali. His name was enlisted as a tribal chief in the court of Mir Khudadad Khan, the Khan of Kalat. At one time the Khan was wounded in a revolt and fled to Noor Wah where he took refuge to the Jamalis. It is said that Imam Bux Khan Jamali had 32,000 Jarebs of land. He invited English officials and served them. Mir Imam Bux Khan Jamali had 3 sons; Haji Sherdil Khan 2) Rais Qaim Khan and 3) Rais Ghulam Mustafa Khan. Mai Jiwi Jamali also belonged to this family. She had gone to London. She was daughter of Rais Qaim Khan Jamali. She used to beg in her last days in Shahdadkot. In the beginning of 20 th Century village Imam Bux Jamali was a large place where many Hindu families lived. They had also a Sarai. Imam Bux Jamali contained some historic tombs that remind visitors of its past glory. Such tombs were destroyed by the River Indus flood in August 2010. Kot Chhatoo Mal was spread on 12 Jarebs of land and it is the only burnt brick fort in Larkana and Kamber Shahdadkot districts. It was built by Chhatoo Mal after the First World War-round about 1915. It has 2 large wooden gates. These are opened in the north and the south. Saifullah Magsi Branch flows in its west. The descendents migrated to India after the separation of 1947. Presently the fort is occupied by the Jamali tribesmen.

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Satellite Image of Chhatoo Jo Kot near village Imam Bux Jamali, Taluka Shahdadkot

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LANGHAN KOT FORT The famous Langhan Kot is situated in the south west of Qubo Saeed Khan. It was built on a raised ground. It had a large wooden gate. The fort is located very close to FP Bund. Much of its walls have been crumbled away by the time.

Langhan Kot-situated in the south west of Kachi Pul-Qubo Saeed Khan Other small forts were also constructed during British Period (1843-1947) in Shahdadkot & Qubo Saeed Khan. Some of these were; Kot Khanbahadur Pir Bux Khan Khuhawar-I Muhammad Abad/ Kamil Khuhawar Kot Gul Muhammad Khuhawar Kot Ali Nawaz Khuhawar Kot Ameer Ali Khuhawar Lahori Kot Kot Shahbaig Dakhan Kot Sirai Sikander Hayat Khan Khuhawar Kot Muhammad Hassan Mugheri Kot Sirai Fateh Muhammad Mastoi Kot Manak Mal Kot Dayo Mal Kot Tolani Wakeel Kot Jhooro Mal Kot Nabi Bux Kot Mast Ali Khokhar Kot Machhi Hasi Jo Kot

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