Building The

1920 Briggs & Stratton

Cycle Car

Copyright 2004, 2005

Everett Moore

Everett Moore
P.O. Box 1705
Cottonwood, AZ 86326

1
 Foreword
The original Cycle Car that inspired this
reproduction had the famous “Motor Wheel”
as its power source. This simple unit had only
three controls. The throttle was controlled
from a small quadrant placed on the steering
wheel, and the entire wheel assembly was
raised off the ground by means of a lever to
the right of the driver.
The brake was foot-operated and, merely,
consisted of a board rubbing on both rear
wheels. Crude to say the least! It probably
served the purpose, however, I decided to be a
little bit more professional with the braking
arrangement on this replica.
Designing and building a “Motor Wheel,” I
felt, would be beyond the intent of a simple
car to be built without welding or lathe work.
The engine is mounted on the chassis, which
extends to the rear about 10” more than the
original. Through a Comet torque converter,
it drives a jack shaft that, in turn, drives the
right rear wheel.
I was tempted to use a differential in
place of the jack shaft, but made myself keep
to the simplest approach. Besides, I had no
experience with driving a small car with only
one rear wheel. It had been done many times
by “sidewalk” car builders and was even used
in a little, production car — the King Midget.
I still wanted to have brakes on both rear
wheels and worked out, with the use of air-
craft pulleys and control cable, an equalizing
system, whereby the same braking force was
applied to both rear wheels.
I used 4” drums with an external band.
One thing I learned was, while sufficient for
parade driving, I got minimal braking. The 4”
drums on a 26” wheel was at a disadvantage.
At the speeds traveled, there’s sufficient stop-
ping power, but, don’t worry about dragging a
flat spot on your tires!
My final design used a foot throttle and
hand brake, both being the simplest
approach to the task at hand. I had to con-
stantly remind myself of the criteria I was
2
designing to meet. I wanted a simple car with
which an entry level builder would have no
problem.
The original Cycle Car was built on six 3
1/2” slats apparently of 1” thick oak or hicko-
ry. To keep construction in the affordable
class, I chose to build the chassis from a piece
of 2 x 8 foot 3/4” plywood. Dummy slats were
created by gluing six 3-1/2” strips of 1/4” ply-
wood to the top with equal distant spacing of
approximately 5/8”. This added a bit of
strength and created the slat look on the top
surface.
There’s no reason why, if you have access
to 1” thick oak or hickory, you couldn’t use
real slats like the original. Most of the con-
trols exit from top to bottom through areas in
the “spaces.” The only exception is the brake
equalizing assembly, which attaches in a slot
area. You would have to redesign a bit here.
To achieve the necessary “stiffness” in the
chassis, I had to add a 2x4 support to the bot-
tom side, left and right.
For those of you who would like to have a
real “motor wheel” power source, this run-
ning gear, with the chassis shortened a bit in
the rear, would still make a good platform to
attach your “wheel.”
I held off completing this set of plans until
the car had been driven in its intended pur-
pose, a parade. This was accomplished on the
4th of December ‘04.
Here’s the results: The steering is “go-
kart” quick with the 12” dia. steering wheel.
Once the driver is accustomed to it, no prob-
lem. All in all, the only thing I discovered
that I felt needed a revision was the flexibili-
ty of the wooden chassis, coupled with the
tremendous torque of the power train,
allowed the chain to jump a tooth or two
under extreme acceleration. The required re-
educating the throttle foot. Once the driver
was use to this, no problem. However, I have
added, in the drawings, addition supports to
stiffen up the area of the engine/power train.
 Introduction
“Nothing is particularly hard
if you divide it into small jobs.”
— Henry Ford
“Before everything else,
getting ready is the secret of success.”
— Henry Ford
"Tattoo the above quotes on your brain" as
Ernest used to say. Better yet, paint them as
signs to hang in your shop where you can look
at them every time the going gets rough.
It was with this incentive that the manu-
al you're holding was done. With its nearly
200 different parts not even a simple cycle
car is necessarily easy. However, if
approached one part at a time, the job
becomes much easier.
Sometimes when you buy a set of plans for
a project such as this, all you get is a copy of
a magazine article or everything crowded
onto a few sheets of paper.
In this manual you will find a complete
drawing of each part — nothing is left for you
— no guess work! A lot of parts are simply a
piece of bar stock, angle or tubing cut to
length with one or more holes drilled in it.
This is not to imply that you can't go off
the beaten trail and modify or redesign to
your own desires. To do so is encouraged.
The idea that this horseless carriage could
be approached as a class project crossed our
mind. Since it utilizes several machine shop
operations, each student could be assigned a
few parts to do according to their ability and
skills. When completed, let the auto body
3
shop do the painting. Then drive in the home-
coming parade! The Industrial Arts Dept
wins, hands down!
The same could apply to friends or neigh-
bors who join together to build each a car
with different ones making all of certain
parts.
A few tools I consider a necessity (either
owning or having access to) and they are: a
cut-off saw, a drill press, a hand grinder, an
accurate square (combination & large carpen-
ter's square), a bottle of layout blue and the
means of accurately-scribing layout lines on
the stock. Always center punch all holes
before drilling.
When I began designing for this set of
plans, I followed the criteria of not using a
lathe or welder. I wanted to produce a simple
car that even a person with minimum work-
shop skills and equipment could build one.
Before you start making scrap iron, study
this manual and drawings. Obtain catalogs
from suppliers and if you have access to the
internet, look at and bookmark the suppliers
we have referenced.
Plan where you are going to work on your
car. Although desirable, a large shop isn't
necessary. Henry Ford utilized a coal shed for
his first horseless carriage, the Quadricycle.
And, while Henry said “plan ahead,” he even
had to knock out the existing door and add a
larger one just to get his car outside!
Visit your local steel supplier. Depending
on your location, you may have access to a
well-stocked supplier. If you live in a rural
area, look for a welding shop that might have
some scrap or be willing to order for you.
— What Tools Will You Need? —
Tools, while making any job easier, cannot
replace skill in the hands using them. The
list of tools that follows are what I consider
sufficient to build the “Red Bug.”
1. A good floor-standing drill press.
Includes a drill press vice and drill bit
set.
2. A quality table saw.
3. A good metal chop saw.
4. An electric hand drill (3/8)
5. A bellhangers drill bit (1/4)
6. A set of Forstner drills.
7. A hand jig saw.
8. A drum sander (either individual or
attachment for drill press.
9. A hand, belt sander is very useful.
10. A bench grinder or hand grinder for
smoothing metal parts.
11. A good tap and die set (both NC & NF)
12. A box of Band Aids!
The Original 1920 Briggs and Stratton Cycle Car
4
— Start with the wooden parts —
It is only a suggestion that you start with
the wooden parts. The chassis is not unlike
the foundation when building a house. Since
most other components rely on it for align-
ment, care must be exercised when laying out
the various locations on the chassis.
Set the frame on a couple of saw horses.
Every time you enter your shop you will see
it and it will trigger your mind to the idea
that, "By golly I'm really building a car - from
scratch - by myself". "I wonder when the next
parade in town is." Also, since the chassis is
basically a 2 x 8 ft piece of 3/4 plywood, it
makes an excellent place to sit down and
make other small parts. Seeing you car take
shape is a thrill you'll never forget.
On the original Briggs & Stratton Cycle
Car, the chassis was constructed from six 3
1/2” wide boards of (I would guess) 1” thick
oak or hickory. If you have such available, go
ahead and substitute for the plywood I used.
I used a 2 x 8 sheet of 3/4 plywood and
added “phony” slats by gluing 3 1/2 wide
strips of 1/4 plywood to the top surface. I
found this arrangement to be a bit “flexible”
with a payload of 450 lbs. Therefore, a sup-
port, made from a 2x4, was added to each on
the underside.
_______________
The Finished Cycle Car — “The Red Bug”

5
 The Making and Assembly Processes

Let’s Make Sawdust First While I didn’t specify any corner round-
ing, I personally used a hand router and a
I would recommend that all the wooden 1/4” round over bit to make a lot of edges
parts be sawed out at the same time. This “look pretty.”
will reduce the large sheets of plywood into, I, also, spared a lot of little detail on the
smaller, more manageable pieces. In some of wood parts because I find most people with
the next pages you will find rough, cutout any degree of a home workshop will usually
dimensions. have sufficient woodworking skills to suffice.
Rip all similar width pieces at the same I recommend that any finished wood part
saw setting. Start with the widest and pro- be left without paint at this time. You should
ceed to the smaller ones. completely finish, assemble and test drive
You might consider finishing the seat, your car and only then disassemble and
cushion bases and seat support first and set paint.
them aside for final painting. _______________
You will note how the axles are made by
gluing pieces of 3/4 inch plywood together to
get the desired thickness. The front axle is
straight forward gluing together of 3 identi-
cal pieces. Whether you cut the profile of the
front axle in the individual pieces or after
gluing, is up to you.
Note how the rear axle has a dado (1 x 1)
to hold the 1” square axle tube at assembly.
You can come close to this dado by sawing the
filler pieces as shown. However, because of
the varying thickness of purchased plywood,
you will most likely have to “fine tune” the
dado for a good fit to the steel tube. This fit
should be close enough to allow epoxying the
tube at final assembly. The tube must be
flush to top surface of axle after assembly.
The bearing support blocks are, also,
made by gluing three pieces of 3/4 inch ply-
wood together. It might be wise to glue the
blocks as one unit, slightly oversize and then
sawing them individually after gluing.
The foot rest is, likewise, made by gluing
together two pieces of 3/4 inch plywood.
The fun piece is the steering shaft support
which, because of its shape, I call the “dog
bone.” Like the front axle, you might want to
A city version of the Cycle Car was made
saw the 2 individual pieces before gluing
later, using electric power for use in large
together. A good drum sander is very useful
estates as personal transportation.
in the finishing of this part. Save the drilling
It was call the “Red Bug.” We named ours
until after the gluing is done.
Red Bug, likewise.

6
 1 31 3/4 31 3/4 31 3/4
4
4

1
3
2 front axle front axle front axle 1
2
2
rear axle rear axle rear axle

seat support botton foot rest seat support front

3 foot rest
1 3
3 22 3
15 1 38 3 2 4
4 5
4
seat support front seat support seat support
side side

1 3 3 1
40
24 22 15 15 4
2 4 4
7

48
24 CHASSIS

96

Copyright 2004
NOTES: Everett Moore
1. Quantity required per car: 1 PART DESCRIPTION

2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. PLYWOOD CUTTING

3. Material: 3/4 Plywood - full 4 x 8 sheet.
SHEET - 1
4. Saw cut has been allowed for.
SCALE PART NUMBER

See Notes 007

 1
3 ( X6 )
2

floor slat x 6

floor slat x 6

floor slat x 6
floor slat x 6

1 floor slat x 6
2
2
floor slat x 6
8

Copyright 2004
NOTES: Everett Moore
1. Quantity required per car: 1 PART DESCRIPTION

2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. PLYWOOD CUTTING

3. Material: 1/4 Plywood - full sheet
SHEET - 2
SCALE PART NUMBER

See Notes 008

 48.00

44.00

Back

16.00
17.00 17.00

8.00 Side Side

48.00

1.75 Seat Back Strip

9

17.00
Bottom

40.00

Copyright 2004
NOTES: Everett Moore
1. Quantity required per car: 1 PART DESCRIPTION

2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. PLYWOOD CUTTING

3. Material: 3/4 Plywood
SHEET - 3, SEAT
SCALE PART NUMBER

See Notes 009

 96
1
Hole Pattern "E" 1
4
6 5
10 (ref) Hole Pattern "D" 1 8
2 3
Hole Pattern "C" 2 6
1 8
10
2
x x
3
3
5 * 16
10
16 *
1
2
16 x x
x
* x 1
1 4 x x 2
2 4
16
Center Line
5 *
10 of Chassis
16
x x

4R
18 R 8 3 Center on groove 20 1
Hole Pattern "A"
1
010

15 1 7 5
2 4 7 3 1
Hole Pattern "B" 4 8 8 1 R
20 2
27 Center Line
1 Rear Axle
31
2
Center Line 1
48
2
Front Axle

72 14
Dims marked with ( * ) apply to both front and rear axle mounting holes.

NOTES:
1. Quantity required per car: 1
2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. Copyright 2004
3. Material: 3/4” Plywood — Imitation Slats = 1/4” Plywood. Everett Moore
4. All hole dia’s to be 3/8” except those marked “x” which are 1/4”. PART DESCRIPTION

5. Some hole dia’s are called out on hole patterns. CHASSIS —

6. See text for more drilling instructions.
TOP VIEW
7. Break all corners and sharp edges.
SCALE PART NUMBER
8. Finish: Choice of builder. See Notes 010
 1 3
D 4
DIA - 2 Holes
8
DIA (ref) 3 places

Cut relief to clear 1/4" flat washer

1 Cut thru 1/4" imitation slat - 2 places 2 (ref)
1
2

3
R
B 1
1
2
3
8
DIA - 2 Holes 1
3
4
8

3
R
8
3
1
8

E 7

1
3
2
011

3
8
DIA - 4 Holes
3
A 3
8
DIA - 2 Holes

1 (ref) 2 places 3
R
8

3
R 3
8 1 3
8

1
1
2
3
1
8

1
1
2 1
3
6 2

C Copyright 2004 - Everett Moore PART DESCRIPTION

CHASSIS - TOP VIEW

HOLE PATTERN LAYOUTS SHEET 2
Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. SCALE PART NUMBER

See Notes 011

 3
3 DIA
8
3 PIECES OF 3/4 PLYWOOD 2 HOLES
GLUED TOGETHER
APPROX. 2 1/4 INCHES 1

7 1
4
8 4
6
012

Copyright 2004
NOTES: Everett Moore
1. Quantity required per car: 2 PART DESCRIPTION

2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. BEARING MOUNTING

3. Material: 3/4 Plywood.
BLOCK
4. Break all corners and sharp edges.
SCALE PART NUMBER
5. Finish: Choice of builder. See Notes 012
 36

3 3
DIA - 2 Holes 7
1R 8 4
1
1
2 1
3

3R 3R
013

1
1 1
2 1
2
6 1
20 6
2

Copyright 2004
NOTES: Everett Moore
1. Quantity required per car: 1 PART DESCRIPTION

2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. FOOT REST

3. Material: 3/4 Plywood. Glue 2 pieces together.
4. Break all corners and sharp edges.
SCALE PART NUMBER
5. Finish: Choice of builder. See Notes 013
 5 5
10 10
16 16
7 1 1 1 1 7
2 2 2 2
8 4 16 16 4 8

1 3 1
1 DIA - 8 holes 2 (ref)
8 8 4
3 1
31 2
3 4 2
2 - 4 plcs
4
014

1
4
4

13
3 both ends
16
Center Line of Chassis
13
13 both ends
16 1" Dia. C'bore to depth shown - Typical 4 Places

NOTES: Copyright 2004

1. Quantity required per car: 1 Everett Moore
2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. PART DESCRIPTION
3. Material: 3/4 Plywood (3 pieces glued together)
4. Break all corners and sharp edges. FRONT AXLE
5. Finish: Choice of builder. SUB - ASSEMBLY
SCALE PART NUMBER

See Notes 014

 5 5 1
10 10 DIA - 12 holes
16 16 4
1 1 1 1
2 2 2 2
16 16 2 2

3 1 3 1
1 - Typical 6 places 3
4 4 4 2
7
34
8
1 Sq tube & plywood surfaces to be flush this entire surface
1
2

1
1
015

2 1 3 1
1 DIA - 4 holes Center line 1
4 8 4
3 9
31 1 (ref - both ends)
4 16

NOTES:
1. Quantity required per car: 1
2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.
3. Material: 3/4 plywood (3 pieces), 1/4” plywood (1 piece) Cut to dims shown.
1” square x .120 wall steel tubing - 34.750 long
4. Glue plywood pieces together as shown. When dry, epoxy steel tube in Copyright 2004
to dimensions shown. Tube and plywood to be flush at top. Everett Moore
5. Plywood thickness can vary. Therefore it may be necessary to touch up the PART DESCRIPTION

1” dado on the table saw to make a snug but loose fit between steel and REAR AXLE
wooden axle.
ASSEMBLY
6. Break all corners and sharp edges.
SCALE PART NUMBER
7. Finish: Choice of builder.
See Notes 015
 5 1
14

1
1R 2R
1
14 1
2

5
2 8 DIA
4 Holes
1
1
4
16

11 1 3 3
2 DIA
8
4 Places

3
4
Typical both ends

Copyright 2004
NOTES: Everett Moore
1. Quantity required per car: 1 PART DESCRIPTION

2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. STEERING SHAFT

3. Material: 2 pieces of 3/4 plywood glued together.
SUPPORT
4. Round over corners as shown.
SCALE PART NUMBER
5. Finish: Choice of builder. See Notes 016
 6
1
1 22
5 2
4

20

3
15
4
3
DIA - 2 Holes
8 7
17

7
8

3 2 2 (REF)
3
4
1
4 24
2

Copyright 2004
NOTES: Everett Moore
1. Quantity required per car: 1 PART DESCRIPTION

2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. SEAT SUPPORT

3. Material: 3/4” Plywood.
ASSEMBLY
4. Glue & screw together.
SCALE PART NUMBER
5. Finish: Choice of builder. See Notes 017
 44 5
16
4R 16

15
o 3 4R
15 15
4
16
80°

40 8 1
1
4
1
18

3
2 2
17

1R Front corner top view

Typical two places

Copyright 2004
NOTES: Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
1. Use dimensions shown. Do not scale drawing.
2. Material: 3/4 in. plywood. SEAT ASSEMBLY
3. Referring to this drawing and drawing XXX, cut two slots to accept corner brackets.
4. Fit parts - glue - reinforce with screws and corner brackets. SCALE PART NUMBER

See Notes 018

 Cut slot thru seat back
to accept corner bracket
both sides

4 in corner reinforcing bracket

fasten to rear of seat, extend thru slot
19

fasten to outside of arm rest. ( 2 places )

Rear view of seat

Detail of seat back reinforcement

Copyright 2004
NOTES: Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
1. Cut two slots as shown. Use router preferably. However, multiple holes can be
drilled and connected with jig saw. Slot should only be wide enough to accept SEAT - REAR DETAIL
the bracket. Prototype used 1/4 in.
2. Drill 1/4 dia holes thru seat back & arm rests and secure brackets with 1/4 - 20
SCALE PART NUMBER
bolts, fender washers and nuts. Place nuts on outside.
See Notes 019
 1 1 DIA - C'Bore - 5/16 Deep

1 1
8R 10
8
11
3
12
8

1 5
20

1 69
4 8

3
16
1
3
2

NOTES: Copyright 2004

1. Quantity required per car: 1 Everett Moore
2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. PART DESCRIPTION
3. Material: Make from 2 x 4 (1 1/2 x 3 1/2)
UNDER CHASSIS
4. With 1/4” Dia router bit, cut key way as shown.
5. Mounting holes to be drilled at assembly. SUPPORT - LH
6. Finish: Choice of builder. SCALE PART NUMBER

See Notes 020

 1 1 DIA - C'Bore - 5/16 Deep

1 1
R 10
8 8
11
3
12
8
21

5
69
8

3
16

NOTES: Copyright 2004

1. Quantity required per car: 1 Everett Moore
2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. PART DESCRIPTION
3. Material: Make from 2 x 4 (1 1/2 x 3 1/2)
UNDER CHASSIS
4. With 1/4” Dia router bit, cut key way as shown.
5. Mounting holes to be drilled at assembly. SUPPORT - RH
6. Finish: Choice of builder. SCALE PART NUMBER

See Notes 021

 The Making of Metal Parts
— Now Let’s Make Some Iron Filings —
If you haven’t already, you might want to
cut the 1” square tube to required length and
finish the rear axle per drawing No. 015.
Be sure to align your chop saw so as to cut
as near to 90 degrees as possible. I never
trust the marks provided and prefer to use a
square to do this.
I recommend cutting all bar stock and
angle parts to the required length at one
time. Next, remove any burrs and sharp
edges with a hand file.
To layout the hole locations, you should
have a small bottle of layout blue. You need
only apply it to the approximate area where
the holes will be. Accurately locate the holes
with a good square and scale. Scribe lines
with a scriber and center punch before
drilling holes.
When all holes are drilled, using either a
bench grinder or hand grinder, form the
radius’ called out on the drawings. These are
not critical and in some cases are more for
appearance than anything else.
One of the more difficult parts will be the
two hub mounting flanges, Drawing No. 034.
Layout and scribe the hole locations with
your square and compass or use the card-
board tool described in Drawing No. 035.
Using the appropriate tap drill, drill and
then tap holes per drawing. If you have never
used a tap before, do two things — 1) Use a
cutting fluid to lubricate the tap while cut -
ting (I use WD-40) 2) Every couple or three
turns of the tap, stop and backup a turn to
break the chip and free the tap again.
Don’t force the tap, back up, and go again.
Nothing will make a grown man cry quicker
than breaking a tap flush with the work, usu-
ally on the last hole of a nearly completed
part! Make an effort to start the tap perpen-
dicular to the the part.
After completing drilling and tapping, all
that’s left to do is cutting the center hole. In
22
sticking with my criteria established at the
beginning, I did this without using a lathe. Of
course, if you have a lathe, by all means use
it!
I used a 1-5/8” dia. metal cutting hole saw,
cutting half way on one side and turning the
part over and finishing from the other side.
Since the hole could be a bit smaller, if you
have a 1-9/16” dia saw or want to use a fly
cutter, use it.
The only tapped holes remaining are on
the chain tightener anchor blocks and the
tubular nuts (use in the steering shaft sup-
port AKA “Dog Bone.”)
All the techniques of tapping used on the
previous parts, apply here, also.
While into tread cutting, you might as
well cut the threads on three parts made
from round CRS. From your tap and die set
chose the appropriate die and die stock (the
handle that holds the die) and, after cutting
the rods to length, cut the threads per draw-
ings No. 038 and 039.
The remaining metal work entails modify-
ing a purchased part, such as cross drilling
and pressing in a roll-pin, drill and tapping
or, in one case, cutting threads with a die.
One part, the brake activator guide, Part
No. 041 requires drilling and tapping plus
pressing in two bearings.
Other modifications are self-explanatory
as per the drawing.
Now is a good time to examine all your
parts by comparing them to the drawing.
Remove any burrs found, de-grease and set
aside for the initial assembly process.
Only after making sure that parts fit and
function as intended, should they be de-
greased, primed and painted with the finish
of your choice.
_______________
 5
5
8

4.125
11
2.250
16
1
1 R
2

1
1
2
23

.375 DIA (2) .750

.625 DIA

Copyright 2004
NOTES: Everett Moore
1. Quantity required per car: 4 PART DESCRIPTION

2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.

FRONT SPINDLE
3. Material: 1/4 X 1-1/2 Steel Bar Stock.
4. Break all corners and sharp edges. MOUNTING BRACKET
SCALE PART NUMBER
5. Finish: Choice of builder.
See Notes 023
 25

1
9
DIA
32

1
2
24

Note: Used only if excessive flexing of the plywood chassis in the area of engine mount and jack shaft
is experienced. Install by raising engine (PP 215) and engine mounting plate (PP 250) and sliding
the two supports between wood chassis and mounting plate. Place as far apart as possible while
in contact with engine mounting bolts. Secure supports at front with 1/4” hardware. This may in-
crease the length of #35 roller chain required between torque converter and jack-shaft.

Copyright 2004
NOTES: Everett Moore
1. Quantity required per car: 2 PART DESCRIPTION

2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. DRIVE TRAIN

3. Material: 1” x 1” x .120 wall Square tube.
SUPPORT
4. Break all corners and sharp edges.
SCALE PART NUMBER
5. Finish: Choice of builder. See Notes 024
 7 5
4.250 1 16
8

2 (ref)
1.375
1
.250 DIA - 2 Holes
25

5
.375 DIA - 2 Holes 16
7

Copyright 2004
NOTES: Everett Moore
1. Quantity required per car: 2 PART DESCRIPTION

2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. CHAIN TIGHTENER

3. Material: 3/16 X 2” Bar Stock.
BASE PLATE
4. Break all corners and sharp edges.
SCALE PART NUMBER
5. Finish: Choice of builder. See Notes 025
 3 1 9
1 DIA
8 4 32

1 Plate A - Qty = 4

2 1
2

3
DIA
8
26

5
15 1 1
3 2
16 8

1 Plate B - Qty = 2

Copyright 2004
NOTES: Everett Moore
1. Quantity required per car: See notation on drawing. PART DESCRIPTION

2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. WASHER PLATES

3. Material: 1/8 x 1 Bar stock.
A&B
4. Break all corners and sharp edges.
SCALE PART NUMBER
5. Finish: Choice of builder. See Notes 026
 1
19
2
.312 DIA 3

1
.250 DIA R
2
16 Both ends
(ref)
5
27

10°

NOTES: Copyright 2004

1. Quantity required per car: 1 Everett Moore
2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.
3. Material: 1/4 X 1 Bar Stock. PART DESCRIPTION

4. Drill & bend as indicated. BRAKE LEVER

5. Break all corners and sharp edges.
6. Finish: Choice of builder. SCALE PART NUMBER

See Notes 027

 7
1
1 4.00
2

1
1
3 2
28

.250 DIA
2 Holes

Copyright 2004
NOTES: Everett Moore
1. Quantity required per car: 1 PART DESCRIPTION

2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. CENTER BRAKE

3. Material: 1/8 X 1- 1/2 steel bar stock.
PULLEY MTG. BKT.
4. Break all corners and sharp edges.
SCALE PART NUMBER
5. Finish: Choice of builder. See Notes 028
 .250 DIA

13

1
12° 1 4.50 6.00
2

1
1
3 2
4

1 1
1 .375 DIA
2
29

1 2 Holes
R
8
Twisting bend to be within this area

A= LH as shown (Qty 1)

B= RH to be mirrow image (Qty 1)

NOTES: Copyright 2004

1. Quantity required per car: 1 Left Hand & 1 Right Hand. Everett Moore
2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. PART DESCRIPTION
3. Material: 1/8 X 1- 1/2 Steel Bar Stock
4. Twist bend as shown to allow brake cable to go under chassis board. OUTBOARD BRAKE
4. Break all corners and sharp edges. PULLEY MTG. BKT.
5. Finish: Choice of builder. SCALE PART NUMBER

See Notes 029

 .250 DIA
3 1 3
2 2 HOLES (ref)
4 2 16
1
R
2

1 2
1
2 1

2 .312 DIA 2
4
1
3
2
30

.375 DIA - 2 Holes

1
R
8

Copyright 2004
NOTES: Everett Moore
1. Quantity required per car: 2 PART DESCRIPTION

2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. BRAKE LEVER

3. Material: 3/16 X 2 X 2 Angle.
MOUNTING BRACKET
4. Break all corners and sharp edges.
SCALE PART NUMBER
5. Finish: Choice of builder. See Notes 030
 7
1 1 8
R R
4 2

3
5
4
.375 DIA
3 HOLES 5
31

1
1
2

1 1
2 2
2
Copyright 2005
NOTES: Everett Moore
1. Quantity required per car: 1 PART DESCRIPTION

2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. BRAKE ANCHOR

3. Material: 3/16 X 2 X 2 Angle.
MOUNTING BKT - LH
4. Break all corners and sharp edges.
SCALE PART NUMBER
5. Finish: Choice of builder. See Notes 031
 7
1 8
R 1
4 R
2

3
5
4
.375 DIA
3 HOLES 5
32

1
1
2

1 1
2 2

2
Copyright 2005
NOTES: Everett Moore
1. Quantity required per car: 1 PART DESCRIPTION

2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. BRAKE ANCHOR

3. Material: 3/16 X 2 X 2 angle
MOUNTING BKT - RH
4. Break all corners and sharp edges.
SCALE PART NUMBER
5. Finish: Choice of builder. See Notes 032
 1R
2

.312 DIA 4 .375 DIA

2 Holes
3

2
33

1
1 R
2 4
2 1
3 2

Copyright 2004
NOTES: Everett Moore
1. Quantity required per car: 1 PART DESCRIPTION

2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. THROTTLE MOUNTING

3. Material: 3/16 - 2 x 3 Angle or make from larger angle.
BRACKET
4. Break all corners and sharp edges.
SCALE PART NUMBER
5. Finish: Choice of builder. See Notes 033
 2.812 DIA

2.000 DIA

5/16 x 24 UNF
4 holes 1/4 x 28 UNF
34

4 holes

1-5/8 DIA .50 (REF)

Make from 3 1/2" Dia. Aluminum disc
McMaster-Carr No. 9035K17 - PP 248 3-1/2 DIA (ref)

Copyright 2004
NOTES: Everett Moore
1. Quantity required per car: 2 PART DESCRIPTION

2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. HUB MOUNTING

3. Material: See drawing callout.
FLANGE - ALTERNATIVE
4. Break all corners and sharp edges.
SCALE PART NUMBER
5. Finish: Choice of builder. See Notes 034
 1
3 DIA
2
13
2 DIA
16
13
1 R
32

2 DIA

1R
35

11 *
1 DIA
32

Location of pin holes

Typical 8 places

NOTES:
1. Quantity required per car: 1 Copyright 2004
2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. Everett Moore
3. Material: Cardboard such as on back of writing tablets, poster board, etc. PART DESCRIPTION
4. Cut stack of small disks to be snug fit in wheel bearing hole. (approx 1.375).
CARDBOARD TOOL
5. Glue stack of small disks concentrically on large disk. This stack must be
sufficient to firmly locate tool in wheel hub. WHEEL/FLANGE DRILL
6. Make small pin hole at intersection of all 8 hole locations. SCALE PART NUMBER

See Notes 035

 1/4 - 28 UNF - 3 Holes

1.375

5
16 2
36

5
1
8
5
16

5
8

Copyright 2004
NOTES: Everett Moore
1. Quantity required per car: 2 PART DESCRIPTION

2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. CHAIN TIGHTENER

3. Material: 5/8” Sq. Bar Stock or Key Stock.
ANCHOR BLOCK
4. Break all corners and sharp edges.
SCALE PART NUMBER
5. Finish: Choice of builder. See Notes 036
 5/16 - 24 UNF

5
DIA
8

3
4
37

1
1
2

Copyright 2004
NOTES: Everett Moore
1. Quantity required per car: 4 PART DESCRIPTION

2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. TUBULAR NUT

3. Material: 5/8 Dia CRS
4. Break all corners and sharp edges.
SCALE PART NUMBER
5. Finish: Choice of builder. See Notes 037
 8.00

1
12 1

1/4 - 28 UNF - Both ends - Min. full thread as shown

38

Copyright 2004
NOTES: Everett Moore
1. Quantity required per car: 1 PART DESCRIPTION

2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. BRAKE ACTIVATOR

3. Material: .250 Dia. Cold Rolled Steel (CRS).
SHAFT
4. Break all corners and sharp edges.
SCALE PART NUMBER
5. Finish: Choice of builder. See Notes 038
 Tie Rod "A" = 7 in. Long

Tie Rod "B" = 23 3/8 long

3/8 - 24 UNF - Min 1-1/2" full thd - both ends

Make from 3/8 dia CRS

39

3/8 - 24 Nut (4 req"d)

3/8 - 24 Ball end - No. PP 203 (4 req'd)

NOTES:
1. Quantity required per car: 1 “A” & 1 “B” Copyright 2004
2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. Everett Moore
3. Material: Per drawing callout. PART DESCRIPTION

4. Break all corners and sharp edges. TIE RODS - A & B

5. Finish: Choice of builder.
6. Assemble each Tie Rod with lock nut and ball end on each end. Screw on
SCALE PART NUMBER
far enough to keep together as a unit. Do not tighten until final assembly. See Notes 039
 1" (ref)

.125 dia - Press in 1/8" x 1" Roll Pin until flush opposite side.
Center hole in bolt head
40

5 (ref)

Copyright 2004
NOTES: Everett Moore
1. Quantity required per car: 2 PART DESCRIPTION

2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. PILLOW BLOCK

3. Material: Make from 3/8 x 5” UNC bolt.
FRONT BOLT
4. Break all corners and sharp edges.
SCALE PART NUMBER
5. Finish: Choice of builder. See Notes 040
 1
PP 243 (2) (ref) .375 DIA - thru both ends
4

1 (ref)

1
DIA
4
1 See notes
2 1
1 (ref)
4
1/4 - 28 UNF - 2 holes

PP 242
41

3 1 5
4 1
2 8

3" (ref)

NOTES:
1. Quantity required per car: 1
2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.
3. Material: Per drawing callout. The builder has lattitude to utilize what ever Copyright 2004
is on hand to build this guide. Everett Moore
4. Break all corners and sharp edges. PART DESCRIPTION

5. Press bearings in flush with flange (both ends). The .250 hole thru bearings BRAKE ACTIVATOR
must be aligned and free for movement of activator shaft. This may require
GUIDE
running drill through holes after assembly.
SCALE PART NUMBER
6. Finish: Choice of builder. See Notes 041
 3 (ref)

1
1
2
Min full thd
42

.250 DIA 1/4 -28 UNF

Make from No. 6065K131 Rod End Blank (McMaster- Carr)

PP 244

Copyright 2004
NOTES: Everett Moore
1. Quantity required per car: 1 PART DESCRIPTION

2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. BRAKE ACTIVATOR

3. Material: Make from PP 244 - No. 6065K131 (McMaster - Carr)
LINK
4. Break all corners and sharp edges.
SCALE PART NUMBER
5. Finish: Choice of builder. See Notes 042
 1 in. before threads

1 1/8 x 3/4 Roll pin

1
43

2
1
2
4

NOTES:
1. Quantity required per car: 2 Copyright 2004
2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. Everett Moore
3. Material: Make from 3/8 x 24 UNF bolt. PART DESCRIPTION

4. Cross drill .125 dia as shown. BRAKE BAND

5. Break all corners and sharp edges.
ANCHOR BOLT
6. Press roll pin thru bolt flush with opposite side.
SCALE PART NUMBER
7. Finish: Choice of builder.
See Notes 043
 1 1/8 x 3/4 Roll pin 3
(ref)
8
.125 Dia.

1 .375 DIA - CRS

2
44

NOTES:
1. Quantity required per car: 2 Copyright 2004
2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. Everett Moore
3. Material: .375 dia. Cold rolled steel (CRS) or make from Cable Pins,
PART DESCRIPTION
Part. No. 13663 (Northern Tool)
4. Break all corners and sharp edges. BRAKE BAND
5. Press roll pin thru until flush with with opposite side. ANCHOR PIN
6. Finish: Choice of builder. SCALE PART NUMBER

See Notes 044

 17/64 Dia.
4 holes, evenly spaced
on 2.000 dia BC
45

Rear Wheel (Purchased Part No. 206)

Only hub is shown for clarity.

NOTES: Copyright 2004

1. Quantity required per car: 2 Everett Moore
2. Material: Per callout on drawing. PART DESCRIPTION
3. Carefully remove bearing from one side.
REAR HUB
4. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.
5. Remove burrs after drilling. MODIFICATION
6. Finish: Paint metal exposed by drilling. Color: Choice of builder. SCALE PART NUMBER

See Notes 045

 PP 245

Straighten shank

7
32

1 3
4 DIA
32
46

Cut tang off as shown

Remove & discard threaded pin
1.75 (ref)

5/16 Dia (ref)

Copyright 2004
NOTES: Everett Moore
1. Quantity required per car: 1 PART DESCRIPTION

2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. THROTTLE PEDAL

3. Material: Make from Azusa Part No. AZ1806 PP 245
MODIFICATION
4. Break all corners and sharp edges.
SCALE PART NUMBER
5. Finish: It’s Zink plated - only touch up raw metal from alteration - any color. See Notes 046
 Make from PP 239

Bend tab up as shown

47

NOTES: Copyright 2004

1. Quantity required per car: 4 Everett Moore
2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. PART DESCRIPTION

3. Material: Make from purchased part.

THROTTLE CONDUIT
4. Bend tab as shown. This allows sufficient contact with wood to hold in
place. CLAMP MODIFICATION
SCALE PART NUMBER
5. Finish: None - already plated.
See Notes 047
 1
2 15

SHAFT "A" (1 Req'd)

Make from PP 233

48

24 (REF)

SHAFT "B" (1 Req'd)

PP 232

Copyright 2004
NOTES: Everett Moore
1. Quantity required per car: 1 each. PART DESCRIPTION

2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. STEERING SHAFT

3. Material: Make from purchased parts per drawing callout.
A&B
4. Break all corners and sharp edges.
SCALE PART NUMBER
5. Finish: Choice of builder. See Notes 048
 The Sub-Assembly Process
You will find that there are some parts
that can best be assembled as a sub-assembly
and then, be attached to the final assembly as
a unit.
A perfect example of this is the brake acti-
vator assembly as shown on drawing No. 050.
This unit is adjusted after final assembly,
to allow proper function of braking mecha-
nism. You will note how the brake cable is
threaded through the pulley of this sub-
assembly.
This simple mechanism provides equal
application of braking force to both rear
wheel drums.
The next sub-assembly will be the two
chain tighteners per drawing No. 057. The
assembly is straight forward with the use of
1/4-28 UNF hardware per call out on draw-
ing.
An all-thread bolt is made by the jamming
of 2 hex nuts on one end.
The next two sub-assemblies are a bit
more difficult. Referring to drawing No. 052,
you will see how the adapter, Part No. 034 is
attached to a rear wheel. While we only
power the right wheel, both wheels have
brake drums and require both rear wheels to
have this adapter attached.
Originally, we fastened the adapter and
wheel with 1/4-28 socket-head cap screws
and split lockwasher. However, after several
miles of parade driving, this loosened up on
the driven wheel.
Therefore, we now recommend that in
addition to the lockwasher, the threads be
coated with LocTite (Red), making a semi-
permanent assembly.
The inner bearing of the wheel had to be
removed for the drilling of the four holes as
shown in drawing No. 045. The bearing is not
replaced until after the mounting flange has
been attached.
49
Doing the above described assembly
requires working in very tight quarters. A
long, ball end allen wrench is used to insert
and turn the Allen Head screws from the
opening in the opposite bearing.
After applying LocTite, tighten all four
screws as tight as you can get them just short
of breaking the ball end off your wrench.
Hopefully, this is the last time you have to do
this.
With the two rear wheels thus done, you
might as well proceed to finishing up the rear
wheels by attaching the sprockets and brake
drums per drawing No. 053.
Having an unused sprocket on the left
rear wheel serves a purpose. At first we had
a large 1/8 thick disc between the left wheel
and the brake drum to assure the brake band
remaining in correct position.
Actually, we learned that making this disc
without a lathe was difficult and, if done by a
machine shop, would cost more that an extra
sprocket. Also, if you wanted to add a differ-
ential in place of the jack shaft, the driven
sprocket is there waiting for you.
Meanwhile, it serves the purpose of keep-
ing the brake band in place. It, also, serves as
a conversation piece. When someone, while
looking your car over, asks what that sprock-
et is for, tell them it is the sending or trigger
wheel for your anti-skid braking system!
The front axle can either be sub-assem-
bled separately or after it is attached to the
chassis board. I prefer the latter. In either
case it is depicted on drawing No. 054.
The jack shaft can, likewise, be loosely
assembled as a sub-assembly. See drawing
No. 061 for reference.
_______________
 PP214 (ref) Spring optional
PP 214 (3)
041 PP 240 (3)
1/4- 28 Hex nut (3) PP 241 (3)

PP 235 (1)

042 038
Note: It may be necessary
50

PP 214 (ref) to file clevis in this area

for free turning of pulley

NOTES:
1. Quantity required per car: 1 Copyright 2004
2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. Everett Moore
3. Material: Per drawing callout
4. Finish: Choice of builder. PART DESCRIPTION

5. A compression spring can be added to area indicated to aid returning of BRAKE ACTIVATOR
brake to off position. (Optional) ASSEMBLY
5. Final adjust of this assembly is done at final assembly. SCALE PART NUMBER

See Notes 050

 025

1/4 - 28 Hex Nut

1/4 - 28 All Thread Rod - 2 3/4" Lg.

Make head by jamming 2 hex nuts
with J B Weld in threads.
51

036

1/4 - 28 x 3/4" C'screw & L'washer (2)

Copyright 2004
NOTES: Everett Moore
1. Quantity required per car: 2 PART DESCRIPTION

2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. CHAIN TIGHTENER

3. Material: Per drawing call outs.
SUB-ASSEMBLY
4. Break all corners and sharp edges.
SCALE PART NUMBER
5. Finish: Previously finished. See Notes 051
 1/4 X 28 - 5/8 Long Socket Hd Capscrew (4 req'd)
1/4 Lock Washer (4 req'd) - Apply LocTite (Red) to threads.
52

Part No. 045

Part No. 034 Only hub is shown for clarity.

NOTES: Copyright 2004

1. Quantity required per car: 2 Everett Moore
2. Material: Per drawing callout.
PART DESCRIPTION
3. Apply LocTite (Red) to threads.
4. Re-install bearing removed when modifying hub. Use new bearing if REAR WHEEL - FLANGE
original was damaged. SUB-ASSEMBLY
5. Finish: Finished prior to assembly. SCALE PART NUMBER

See Notes 052

 Sprocket - PP No. 218
5/16 x 24 UNF - 7/8 Long Socket Head C'Screw Northern # 1363 (54 tooth - 41 pitch)
5/16 Lock Washer
4 each req'd
53

Brake Drum - PP No. 223

Northern # 1366 Wheel Sub-Assembly Part No. 052

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
NOTES: PART DESCRIPTION

1. Quantity required per car: 2 REAR WHEEL ASS’Y -

2. Material: Per callout on drawing. SPROCKET & DRUM
3. Finish: Parts are pre-finished at assembly SCALE PART NUMBER

See Notes 053

 023 (4) 014

PP 202 PP 201
PP 228 (2) PP 228 (2)
54

Adjust spacing between brackets, if needed, by placing large, fender washers

between lower brackets and wood.

NOTES:
1. Quantity required per car: 1 Copyright 2004
2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. Everett Moore
3. Material: Per drawing callout.
PART DESCRIPTION
4. Break all corners and sharp edges.
5. Finish: Parts to be finished before assembly. FRONT AXLE
6. Add 3/8 fender washers to lower spindle brackets as necessary to obtain ASSEMBLY
proper fit of spindle. SCALE PART NUMBER

See Notes 054

 The Assembly Process

— Lets Build a Car —

I recommend that, before painting any-

thing, you completely assemble your car and
test drive it. Don’t use lock nuts this time —
merely use regular hex nuts and lock wash-
ers. Trailer it to some area where you can
safely drive it around a bit. If you have a
problem, now is the time to find out.
Once you’re satisfied, completely disas-
semble, clean all the metal parts with
Acetone or other good de-greaser and paint
the color of your choice. My car was finished
with gloss black on the metal parts and
bright red on the wood.
On the final assembly, use nylon lock nuts
every where possible. Where not possible, use
LocTite (blue). There’s a lot of unfelt vibra-
tion that can loosen hardware and ruin the
entire parade for you.
I have not specified the exact lengths and
sizes of most hardware as it should be self
evident. When attaching parts to wood, the
wood tends to crush under the load of tight -
ening the bolts. Hence, the generous use of
large, fender washers is advised. Build all the
sub-assemblies first. Follow the instructions
on the specific drawing.
Now, with the chassis board upside down
on saw horses, assemble the front and rear
axles, and proceed with the attachment of all
parts noted on Drawing No. 058.
From the pictures to the right you see an
amazing amount of parts and hardware uti-
lized in this “simple” car!
You will use quite a bit of the hardware
while working on the underside. However, be
prepared to “box it up” when it becomes nec-
essary to turn it over and assemble on the top
side.
Attach both front and rear axles at this
time. Referring to drawing No. 058 and pho- The upside down chassis board makes an
tos on page 56, attach as many of the parts excellent place to pile parts and hardware -
shown on the next page as possible. Noting until you need to assemble from the top
the direction of the bolts you made with the side!

55
Photo No 1 - Throttle cable routing under
brake equalizer assemble. Note how the
cable is held in place with 3 clamps, Part No.
Photo No. 4 - This shot shows the brake
047.
equalizer and how the brake cable is thread-
ed to reach the outer puller and finally to
brake band.

Photo No. 2 - Throttle cable makes its exit to

top side through hole drilled at an angle that
will prevent any restriction to throttle wire
movement. Held in place with clamp, Part
No. 047.
Photo No. 5 - Detail of how throttle wire ter-
minates at engine. A modified “Z” bend
matches the existing hole in throttle arm
while Clamp, part No. PP 239 attaches to
existing threaded engine hole with 10-32 x
1/2 socket head cap screw. An additional
spring added to assist return to idle.

Photo 3 - Attachment of throttle wire to foot

pedal with “Z” bend in end of wire. Note the
cable being held with another clamp No.
047. An extension spring has been added to Photo No. 6 - Throttle cable emerges from
assist throttle returning to idle. just behind seat support.

56
roll-pin protruding from the head, install washers under the nuts securing the pillow
through proper hole in both outboard brake blocks, as possible.
pulley mtg. brackets, Part Nos.029A and Referring to drawing No.062, locate the
029B. Leave bolt loose at this time. With the large sprocket that connects to the engine, in
roll-pins pointing forward, the two chassis the center of the clearance slot cut for it. Do
supports, Part Nos.020 and 021 can be posi- not tighten any sets screws yet.
tioned in place. The Foot rest, part No. 013 Before continuing with the jack shaft, it is
can be installed from the opposite side and necessary to mount the rear wheels.
loosely bolted in place. However, this is even a better time to mount
Continue to refer to assembly drawing No. the brake band anchor bolts (with the roll-
058, which shows the proper location of most pin). See the brake band installation draw-
parts under your car. ing No.064 for details.
While the tie rod assemblies are shown on To install engine, refer to drawing No. 059
this drawing, it is best to wait until the steer- and 060. On the prototype the engine was
ing shaft, part No.048A has been installed bolted directly to the chassis board with an
before attaching the tie rods. engine mounting plate, No. PP 250 separat-
When you are satisfied that the bottom ing the engine from the wood.
mounted parts have been installed as far as Actual tests indicated that addition stiff-
possible, turn the chassis over, revealing the ness was needed. Therefore, engine supports,
top side (with slats). You can now mount the drawings No. XXX and XXX were added.
seat support. Note: while not called out on They are installed between the wood chassis
drawing, I placed four large diameter rubber board and the engine mounting plate.
washers under the seat support (about 2” in You will note, by observing the picture on
from the four corners. When the mounting page 5, how a 1/4” pipe nipple and elbow was
bolts are tightened, the rubber washers are used to extend the engine’s oil drain plug rear
captivated. Since the chassis flexes under and downward, to enable easy oil changes.
changing terrain, this allows some “float”
between the two parts.
Make sure the seat support does not inter-
fere with the throttle cable. Check to insure
free movement of the throttle wire.
Before mounting the jack shaft assembly,
it is best to semi-assemble it before hand.
Leave all setscrews loose. Refer to Dwg.062.
You should have a bolt protruding up on
both sides of the chassis. Drop both bearing
support blocks, part Nos 012 over these holes.
Next install the chain tension adjusters, part
No.051 over the protruding bolt. Refer to
drawing Nos 062 & 063 for detail and orien-
tation of the adjusters.
You can now carefully lower the jack shaft
assembly onto the support blocks as shown
on assembly drawings No.059 and No.062.
Install the second bolt up through the chassis
support, chassis, bearing block, chain
adjuster and through the elongated hole in
the pillow block. Use as many heavy, flat

57
 023
046
PP 238
PP 239 040
047 029A Roll pin
039A pointing forward
028 PP 235
054 050 PP 235 (2) 026A
015
020
58

040
Roll pin
010 021 pointing forward 026B (2)
029B
026A
PP 235
039B PP 236

Copyright 2004
NOTES: Everett Moore
1. Quantity required per car: 1 PART DESCRIPTION

2. Parts locate per previously drilled holes. CHASSIS ASSEMBLY -

3. Material: Per drawing callout.
BOTTOM VIEW
4. Assemble per intructions in text.
SCALE PART NUMBER

See Notes 058

 013 027 (See Notes) 065

030 (2)

017 215
59

216

Attach brake actuator ass'y (below)

with 1/4-28 x 1" capscrews & fender
washers. Bolt head must not interfer
with seat support (017).
Secure with LocTite (Blue)

Copyright 2004
NOTES: Everett Moore
1. Quantity required per car: 1 PART DESCRIPTION

2. Parts locate per previously drilled holes. CHASSIS ASSEMBLY -

3. Material: Per drawing callout.
TOP VIEW
4. Assemble per intructions in text.
SCALE PART NUMBER
5. Slip bicycle handlebar grip onto brake lever to improve grip. See Notes 059
 Mtg. flange included with 048B

PP 226
048B PP 227

PP 212 (2) 018

PP 229 (2)
068

PP 204 (2) Direction of throttle cable

PP 234
016
048A
037 (4)
067

See notes
60

1 For detail see drawing 061

(ref)
4

NOTES: Copyright 2004

1. Dis-assemble pillow blocks No. PP 204 and re-assemble with oil cup out Everett Moore
side instead of top hole. This will allow extreme movement of bearing PART DESCRIPTION

necessary to match angle of steering shaft. CHASSIS ASSEMBLY

2. Position the steering shaft to clear front axle by 1/4” and secure in place
SIDE VIEW
with Collars PP 212 and Bearings PP 229.
SCALE PART NUMBER
3. Attach seat to support with 2-1/2” removable pin hinges (2)
See Notes 060
 1/4

PP
PP 210
XXX(typical)
(typical)
61

XXX(typical)
PP 211 (typical)
Apply LocTite (Blue)
(Blue) 22 places
places

Copyright 2004
NOTES: Everett Moore
1. Assemble as shown. PART DESCRIPTION

2. End of steering shaft to be 1/4” from front axle. TIE ROD - STEERING
2. Use shim washers as shown to premit maximum tie rod travel.
SHAFT ASS’Y DETAILS
3. Secure nuts with LocTite (blue)
SCALE PART NUMBER

See Notes 061

 30

012 PP 225 (Cut to dimension shown) 012

PP 205 (2)

PP 219
PP 213 PP 213

PP 213
62

PP 213
PP 220

051 (2)

PP 217

Copyright 2004
NOTES: Everett Moore
1. Quantity required per car: 1 PART DESCRIPTION

2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. JACKSHAFT

3. Material: Per drawing call out.
ASSEMBLY
4. Break all corners and sharp edges.
SCALE PART NUMBER
5. Finish: n/a See Notes 062
 PP 205

PP 225 (ref)
Grease fitting to rear
3/8 Lock Nut
& double flat washers
63

057 (ref)

012 (ref)
Front of car

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
NOTES: PART DESCRIPTION

1. Quantity required per car: Typical 2 places. CHAIN TIGHTENER

2. Balance of Jack shaft assembly shown on drawing No. 062. INSTALLATION
3. Material: Per drawing callout. SCALE PART NUMBER

See Notes 063

 PP 224 (2)

044
64

043
031 (Left )
032 (Right )
Copyright 2005
NOTES: Everett Moore
1. Quantity required per car: 2 (left and right) PART DESCRIPTION

2. Loosely assemble anchor bolt (043) at this stage. Final adjustment are BRAKE BAND
made to it and brake cable after rear wheels are mounted.
INSTALLATION
3. Secure brake cable with standard clamp from hardware store.
SCALE PART NUMBER
4. Roll-pins of parts 043 and 044 are positioned approximately as shown. See Notes 064
 Attach entire assembly to axle with 5/32 cotter pin

PP 246 - 1/32 shim washer (as needed)

See notes about axle length

Wheel PP 247 - 1/8 shim washer (as needed)

65

PP 206 Suggest using 2 at first.

Make from 1/2 in pipe cap

Drill out to 3/4 dia. - cross drill 5/32 dia.

NOTES:
Copyright 2004
1. Use dimensions shown. Do not scale drawing. Everett Moore
2. Axle = 3/4 dia CRS cut oversize (48”) - Push axle thru axle tube on frame - Install shim
PART DESCRIPTION
washers and 1 wheel as show above - Install 1 hub cap, cross drill, install cotter
pin - Install shim washers and 2nd wheel - Allowing extra length for hub cap, AXLE - HUBCAP
cut off - Install hub cap - cross drill - Install 2nd cotter pin. DETAILS
3. Add or remove 1/32 shim washers to allow wheels to turn freely without excess-
SCALE PART NUMBER
sive end play.
See Notes 065
 024 (2)
66

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore

NOTES: PART DESCRIPTION

1. Quantity per car: 2 (If required) DRIVE TRAIN SUPPORT

2. Material: Per drawing call out. INSTALLATION DWG.
SCALE PART NUMBER

See Notes 066

 1
35 2
71 21
4

5/16 dia
C'bore 1" dia 1/16 deep
Press 1/4 - 20 "T" nut flush
Typical 4 places
14

11
67

A A
Section A - A 4:1
1
1
2

NOTES:
1. Quantity required per car: 1
2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. Copyright 2004
3. Material: 1/2 inch plywood - 1/4 - 20 x 5/16 “T” nuts (4) - PP 249 Everett Moore
4. Break all corners and sharp edges.
PART DESCRIPTION
5. Finish: None.
6. Suggest using 2 in. of foam covered with appropriate upholstery material SEAT CUSHION BASE
stretched tight and stapled in back. Be sure and not cover up the mounting
holes. Alternate: Take to an upholstery shop and let them cover it. SCALE PART NUMBER

See Notes 067

 1
5 32 4R
5/16 dia 2
C'bore 3/4" dia 1/16 deep 16
Press 1/4 - 20 "T" nut flush
Typical 3 places

1
A A 7
2

Section A - A 4:1 3
3
43 4
68

1R

NOTES:
1. Quantity required per car: 1
2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing. Copyright 2004
3. Material: 1/2 inch plywood - 1/4 - 20 x 5/16 “T” nuts (3) - PP 249 Everett Moore
4. Break all corners and sharp edges.
PART DESCRIPTION
5. Finish: None.
6. Suggest using 2 in. of foam covered with appropriate upholstery material SEAT BACK
stretched tight and stapled in back. Be sure and not cover up the mounting CUSHION BASE
holes. Alternate: Take to an upholstery shop and let them cover it. SCALE PART NUMBER

See Notes 068

Vendor Code = FB Foley-Belsaw
P.O. Box 419593
Kansas City, Mo 64141
1-800-821-3452

Vendor Code = G * W. W. Grainger, Inc.

Website: www.grainger.com

Vendor Code = McC ** McMaster-Carr

Website: www.mcmaster.com

Vendor Code = MS Manufacturer’s Supply

P.O. Box 167
Dorchester, WI 54425
1-800-826-8563
Website: www.mfgsupply.com

Vendor Code = NT Northern Tool & Equipment

1-800-556-7885
Website: www.NorthernTool.com

Vendor Code = SEW Small Engine Warehouse

765-768-6725
Website: www.smallenginewarehouse.com

Vendor Code = GKG Go-Kart Galaxy

1-903-340-1965
Website: www.gokartgalaxy.com

Vendor Code = AS Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co.

1-877-477-7823
Website: http://www.aircraftspruce.com

* W. W. Grainger has outlets in most larger cities. You need to contact the one closest to you.
Look in a phone book for a larger city near you.

** McMaster-Carr has several locations. They have such a user friendly website that the
easiest way to order from them is on the internet.

Always check our website: www.smallcarplans.com for links to the latest in suppliers.

69
PP No. Qty Description Vendor Code Catalog No.

201 1 Spindle, RH MS AZ2518

202 1 Spindle, LH MS AZ2519

203 4 Ball Joint, 3/8 - 24 MS 10-2214

204 2 Pillow Block, 5/8” Bronze G 2X529

205 2 Pillow Block, 1” Ball Bearing NT 1805

206 4 Pneumatic Spoked Wheel, 26” NT 145123

207 Removed

208 10 Shim Washer, 5/8 X 1 OD X .031 McC 3088A433

209 10 Shim Washer, 5/8 X 1 OD X .125 McC 3088A513

210 10 Shim Washer, 3/8 ID X 5/8 OD X .062 McC 3088A466

211 10 Shim Washer, 3/8 ID X 5/8 OD X .125 McC 3088A511

212 2 Collar, 5/8 ID MS AZ8554

213 4 Collar, 1” ID MS AZ8565

214 4 Clevis, 1/4 - 28 MS AZ8354

215 1 Engine, B&S - 5.5 hp Intek SEW 126312

216 1 Torque Converter Ass’y NT 1377

217 1 Sprocket, #35 - 60 Tooth NT 1361

218 2 Sprocket, #41 - 54 Tooth NT 1363

219 1 Sprocket Hub NT 138291

220 1 Sprocket, #41 - 15 Tooth - 1” Bore McC 6280K534

221 10 ft. #35 Roller Chain NT 136410

222 10 ft. #41 Roller Chain NT 136510

223 2 4” Brake Drum MS 4-485

224 2 4” Brake Band w/pin MS 4-486

225 1 Steel shaft with Keyway 1” OD x 36” McC 1497K102

226 1 12” Steering Wheel MS 4-9396

227 1 Steering Wheel Cap Assembly GKG 1877

228 4 King Pin Bushing (nylon) MS AZ8215

70
229 2 Bronze Bushing - 5/8 ID - 3/4 OD x 1 Lg McC 6391K243

230 2 Connect Link - #41 Chain McC 6261K192

231 2 Connect Link - #35 Chain McC 6261K191

232 1 24” Steering Shaft w/o pitman arms welded MS AZ1868-24

233 1 22” Steering Shaft w/ pitman arms welded MS AZ1867-22

234 1 5/8 x 5/8 Coupling SC 1320-0016

235 5 Control Cable Pulley AS A-124

236 15 ft Control Cable - 3/32 x 7x19 AS 05-04000

237 100 ft Throttle Wire FB 5960245

238 1 Throttle Wire Conduit FB 5960247

239 Pk of 10 Throttle Wire Conduit Clamp FB EGR5979510

240 3 Clevis Pin MS AZ8355

241 3 Cotter Pin MS AZ8419

242 1 Spindle Bracket MS AZ8171

243 2 Bronze Bearing - 1/4 ID - 3/8 OD Flanged McC 6338K413

244 1 Rod End Blank McC 6065K131

245 1 Throttle Pedal MS AZ1806

246 10 Shim Washer, 3/4 ID x 1 1/8 OD x 1/32 McC 3088A434

247 10 Shim Washer, 3/4 ID x 1 1/8 OD x 1/8 McC 3088A514

248 2 Aluminum Disc, 3 1/2 OD x 1/2 thick McC 9035K17

249 7 Tee Nut, 1/4 - 20 x 5/16 High McC 90975A025

250 1 Engine Mounting Plate MS AZ8190

71
 Building The
1920 Briggs & Stratton
Cycle Car