Uruguay
The Owners Manual
Uruguay: The Owners Manual Authors: Lee Harrison and Julie Lowrey 5th edition First published: 2006 Editor: Nazareen Heazle Design: Lorie Drozdenko Cover photos: Lee Harrison iStockphoto.com/Jos Carlos Pires Pereira Dreamstime.com/Svx94 978-1-905720-54-5 120R0082C1
Copyright 2012. International Living Publishing Ltd., Elysium House, Ballytruckle, Waterford, Ireland. All rights reserved. No part of this report may be reproduced by any means without the express written consent of the publisher. The information contained herein is obtained from sources believed to be reliable, but its accuracy cannot be guaranteed. Registered in Ireland No. 285214. Disclaimer: International Living Publishing, Ltd. works with Pathfinder Ltd., a real estate advertising company managed by Ronan McMahon and Margaret Summerfield. Ronan and Margaret are real estate investing experts who contribute to International Living magazine. Pathfinder Ltd. may receive an advertising fee from developers and real estate agents mentioned in these pages and International Living Publishing Ltd. may receive a portion of that fee.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
FOREWORD. ........................................................................................................................... 1 INTRODUCTION: The Secret is Out: And the Move to Uruguay is on.................................. 4
A multi-faceted lifestyle.........................................................................................................................4 Uruguay offers a great location and a gentle climate........................................................................6 A stable, fair government free of political strife.................................................................................7 Uruguays European culture will make you feel at home................................................................8 Whats bringing expats to Uruguay in 2012?......................................................................................9 An in-depth look around Uruguay will help you pick your region...............................................9 Youll get real insider information on how to get things done......................................................10 No matter what youre looking for, chances are youll find it in Uruguay ................................. 11 The Spanish arrive in Uruguaytwice.............................................................................................12 The Portuguese move against Spanish dominance.........................................................................12 The revolution against Spain brings the return of the Portuguese from Brazil...........................13 Uruguay gains independence with the help of Argentina.............................................................13 The birth of Uruguays two traditional political parties.................................................................14 Uruguay enjoys a period of peace and immigration.......................................................................14 Uruguay becomes a leader in social reform as the 20th century unfolds.....................................15 A dark period of military rule gives way to a modern democracy...............................................16 The structure of todays government.................................................................................................18 Todays political scene..........................................................................................................................18 Its Spanishwith a local twist...........................................................................................................20 Resources for language learning........................................................................................................21 Spanish audio courses.................................................................................................................21 Online Spanish dictionary...........................................................................................................23 Getting help from MS Word........................................................................................................23 In-country Spanish schools.........................................................................................................23 Dont even consider leaving home without these items.................................................................25 Your Uruguayan real estate dictionary..............................................................................................26 Dont be intimidated by the language...............................................................................................30 Already speak some Spanish? Here are some Uruguayan peculiarities......................................30 Uruguays economic history...............................................................................................................33 The new millennium begins with a new economic crisis...............................................................35 Todays economic picture in Uruguay ..............................................................................................36 Key economic statistics for the potential expat................................................................................36 Inter-country comparison of key indicators.....................................................................................37 A good economic climate for the expat.............................................................................................38 Getting to know Uruguay: Our journey around the country.........................................................39
Montevideo: A world capital that can feel like a small town.....................................................39 Ciudad ViejaMontevideos historic center............................................................................41 Property samples in Ciudad Vieja..............................................................................................45 CentroA great-value neighborhood.......................................................................................46 Property samples in Centro........................................................................................................48 Some of Montevideos finest areas.............................................................................................48 Long-term rentals in Montevideo..............................................................................................51 Ciudad de la Costa...............................................................................................................................52 Property samples in Ciudad de la Costa...................................................................................53 Rentals in Ciudad de la Costa.....................................................................................................53 Costa de Oro..........................................................................................................................................54 Atlntida: The centerpiece of Costa de Oro..............................................................................56 Property samples in Atlntida....................................................................................................57 Arriving at the river Arroyo Sols Chico...................................................................................57 Rentals in Costa de Oro...............................................................................................................59 The Piripolis area...............................................................................................................................59 PiripolisOne of Uruguays oldest resorts............................................................................60 Property samples in Piripolis....................................................................................................61 The nude beach at Playa Chihuahua.........................................................................................63 Portezuelo......................................................................................................................................63 Punta del EsteSouth Americas number one seafront destination.........................................65 Why the Punta del Este market is so popular..........................................................................65 Punta del Estes lay of the land..................................................................................................68 Think Punta del Este is too expensive? Check this out...........................................................71 Punta del Este property examples.............................................................................................72 Punta del Este rentals...................................................................................................................77 RochaHome to Uruguays best beaches.......................................................................................78 Jos Ignacio....................................................................................................................................78 Property samples in Jos Ignacio...............................................................................................79 La Paloma......................................................................................................................................81 Property samples in La Paloma..................................................................................................82 Rentals near La Paloma...............................................................................................................83 La Pedrera......................................................................................................................................84 Property samples in La Pedrera.................................................................................................84 Barra de Valizas............................................................................................................................85 Property samples in Barra de Valizas........................................................................................86 Aguas Dulces................................................................................................................................87 Barra de Chuy...............................................................................................................................87 The Uruguayan Interior......................................................................................................................87 Chuy...............................................................................................................................................88 Treinta y Tres.................................................................................................................................89 Villa Serrana for a hilly vacation getaway................................................................................91 TacuarembThe heart of the pampas....................................................................................93 MercedesThe little city on banks of the Ro Negro..............................................................94 Property samples in Mercedes....................................................................................................97 Rentals in Mercedes.....................................................................................................................97 Dolores...........................................................................................................................................98 Uruguays river cities..........................................................................................................................99 SaltoA great alternative to Montevideo................................................................................99 Property samples in Salto..........................................................................................................101 PaysandFor land parcels and low cost of living..............................................................102
Property samples in Paysand.................................................................................................102 Fray BentosA new wave of prosperity................................................................................103 Property samples in Fray Bentos..............................................................................................104 CarmeloBack to the 19th century.........................................................................................105 Property samples in Carmelo...................................................................................................107 ColoniaUruguays World Heritage Site..............................................................................108 Areas of interest in Colonia.......................................................................................................109 Colonia property overview....................................................................................................... 110 Property samples in Colonia..................................................................................................... 111 Rentals in Colonia....................................................................................................................... 113 A waterfront alternative outside of Colonia........................................................................... 113 Building instead of buying........................................................................................................ 113
Finding outlets, bolts, wire, and other hardware...........................................................................176 The hairdresser....................................................................................................................................176 Tipping.................................................................................................................................................177 Clothing................................................................................................................................................177 Tips on appliances..............................................................................................................................177 At the post office.................................................................................................................................178 Public transportation..........................................................................................................................178 Hotels vs. motels.................................................................................................................................178 Nude beaches......................................................................................................................................178
APPENDIX A: The Uruguay Rolodex.................................................................................. 206 APPENDIX B: Three Unique Spanish Verb Inections....................................................... 224 APPENDIX C: Maps of Uruguay......................................................................................... 227
In our experience, there are few places that can match Uruguays combination of modern infrastructure, honest culture, and natural beauty anywhere in Latin America. Jackie Flynn, Publisher, International Living
FOREWORD
Dear International Living Reader, When you consider moving to Uruguay, keep in mind that there are a few things you might miss. In fact, expats who came to Uruguay since we began coverage in 2004 have missed out on a lot. First, they missed the U.S. housing bubblebut more importantly, they missed the subsequent property market crash. In sharp contrast, property values in Uruguay have continued to appreciate nicely...in some cases, dramatically. Next, the expats in Uruguay missed the recession, which just seemed to pass the country by. Unlike the hemispheres economic powerhousessuch as the U.S., Brazil, Mexico, and ArgentinaUruguay actually posted an economic gain during the depths of the recession, and has since broken all previous tourism and construction records. The economy overall, grew a stunning 8.5% in 2010; based on the latest statistics available. And of course they missed the war on terrorthe threat of violencethe airport security that makes traveling a headache. Uruguay is not only missing out on much of the worlds turmoil, but it continues to offer some of the worlds best benefits. Uruguays banking system remains solid, appealing to investors and depositors from around the world who are seeking a safe haven that also offers tax advantages. So while almost 400 banks failed over the past three years in the U.S., Uruguay continued chugging along without a hitch. In our experience, there are few places that can match its combination of modern infrastructure, honest culture, and natural beautyanywhere in Latin America. In Uruguay, youll find a First-World country with mile after mile of fast, modern highwayspure water coming from every tapand reliable electricity, telephone, and Internet service. Foreword
Uruguay offers a European culturepredominately Italianwith little Spanish colonial influence. A mild climate. And one of Latin Americas lowest level of corruption and poverty, with one of the regions highest standards of living. And thats not to mention the miles of beautiful, sandy beaches, colonial cities, and vast stretches of rolling pampas. And as it turned out, Uruguay is just what the doctor ordered for many IL readers. It appeals to people who are ready to retire, invest, or buy a second home abroadbut who are also looking for a country with similar cultural values to their home country; an environment thats also safe, secure, and without natural disasters. Uruguays four moderate seasons are a plus too, given that theres no ice or snow.
So yes, there are things youll miss in Uruguaybut theyre things we could all do without. In their place, youll find a great country to enjoy life in a safe, First-World environment, where you still benefit from continued economic prosperitywith a terrific European culture and great property prices. Read on to get a unique, residents look at this slice of Europe hidden away in Latin America. Sincerely,
Foreword
INTRODUCTION
The Secret is Out: And the Move to Uruguay is on
Uruguay was a well-kept secret for a long timeat least with respect to North Americansbut it looks like the secret is out. Every year that goes by, Im surprised to see more and more people coming down to call Uruguay home along with a good number of second-homebuyers and investors. Some people come for the elegant city livingor perhaps life in a beautifullyrestored colonial setting. Still others come to settle among the vast stretches of rolling pampas, with gauchos still tending their herdsor maybe to live the high life at South Americas premier beach resort. And most recently, people are coming in search of a safe haven. They want a fertile country thats free of conflict; with mild weather, sustainable agriculture, and a solid financial system. Thats the beauty of Uruguayits all here, among First-World conditions, at reasonable prices.
A multi-faceted lifestyle
City life in the capital of Montevideo has something to offer most anyone. One of my first experiences in Montevideo was a visit to the magnificently restored Teatro Sols. Its an old-fashioned theater from a bygone era, where black-tie crowds still turn out to enjoy world-class orchestras when they come to town. But just a half block down the street, you can also join the local folks at a tiny tango club that looks more like an abandoned building during the day. The tango singing and dancing will go on here until well after Teatro Sols has closed for the night
Some of the citys best fine-dining establishments are also near the theateras are dozens of casual parrillas, whose giant grills and blazing wood fires await the arrival of Montevideos meat-lovers. But in the same neighborhood, youll also find an array of small bars and cafes, with crowds that wont go home until 9 a.m. the next dayor you can join the elderly couples who come to the neighborhood park to dance tango, who will be home well before midnight. By the light of day, you may want to relax on one of Montevideos many popular beaches, taking in the sun, sand, and surf. This is life in the big citya world capital. But its only one facet of Uruguay.
Introduction
Lee Harrison
The country is also home to South Americas premier beach resort, Punta del Este. A town that boasts miles of sandy beaches and blue waters, along with the countrys hottest nightclubs, the best casinos and shows, and the highest concentration of fine restaurants. Not to mention its world-renowned property market. Its another facet of Uruguay. And so is Colonia, with the faithfully restored 17th-century Portuguese architecture that earned its status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. And the department of Rocha, with its miles of unspoiled beachesor Salto, with its thermal spas and treasure-trove of Art-Deco homesor the Interior towns of Mercedes, Tacuaremb, and Treinta y Tres, separated by hundreds of miles of pampas, with traditionally dressed gauchos working as they have for centuries. Theyre all facets of Uruguay; a country that truly offers a First-World lifestyle for everyone; whether its a home on the beach, an apartment in the city, or a thousand acres of ranchland. I find that the quality of life here in Uruguay is exceptional. True, there are plenty of cheaper places to live in the world. But remember, to a large extent you get what you pay for.
Uruguays 19 departments Uruguay is divided into19 departments, which are like states or provinces. In Spanish, they are departamentos. Heres a list in alphabetical order: Artigas Canelones Cerro Largo Colonia Durazno Flores Florida Lavalleja Maldonado Montevideo Paysandu Rio Negro Rivera Rocha Salto San Jos Soriano Tacuaremb Treinta y Tres
Uruguay has four seasons, but does not have ice or snow. While the 41-inch rainfall is spread somewhat evenly throughout most of the year, rain is rare in the mid-summer months of January and February. In Montevideo, the statistical temperature average in the summer (December through February) shows an average high of 82 F, and an average low of 61 F (28 and 16 Celsius). In winter (June to August) the average high is 59 F, while the average low is 43 F (15 C and 6 C). Statistics aside, it has reached the mid-90s (34 C) on perhaps six days in Punta del Este in recent summers, and even in winter, most days have hit 60 F. Suffice to say that while you wont need a snow shovel, you will use heat in the midwinter and occasional air conditioning in the summer.
Introduction
Always a pioneer for social reform in the region, Uruguay doesnt exhibit the rigid two-class society that exists in most of Latin America. One reason for this is that education is free through university and sometimes post-graduate level, so even people of limited means can get a degree and enjoy better opportunities. Another reason is that Uruguay has few Native Americanswho are the usual targets of discrimination in Latin Americaso theres not much of an ethnically defined boundary between the upper and lower classes. Uruguay is neither an aggressor nor the target of aggression on the international scene. We dont need to worry about terrorism. And believe me, you wont miss itespecially when you get to casually pass through security at the airport with your shoes on and your laptop in its case.
An in-depth look around Uruguay will help you pick your region
While Uruguay is a small country, there is quite a bit of diversity. It offers the expat old colonial cities, sparkling beach resorts, and a world-class capital. But it also has huge expanses of rolling ranchland, miles of uncrowded and undeveloped beaches, and small towns of every size and description.
Introduction
In Chapter Four, Ill take you on a tour around the country so you can get to know the regions and see what properties cost. Here are the sectors well be using throughout this manual: Montevideo Ciudad de la Costa Costa de Oro Piripolis Punta del Este Northeast Coast The Interior
These zones are found as you follow the coast east from Montevideo.
Everything thats not Montevideo, not on the coast, and not on the river. Following the Uruguay River to the northern border with Brazil.
The boundaries for geographical divisions in this manual are, for the most part, my own. Where a defined zone didnt exist by name, I grouped the areas by their general character and their market characteristics. Once you have found your dream home, whether it be in the bright lights of the capital of Montevideo, or a home on the beach in Piripolis, Ill take you through the process for buying that property in Chapter Five.
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One of the most important aspects of moving to a new country is its health care system. When you are far from home, its comforting to know that you will be in good hands should you get sick. In Chapter Nine, well look at Uruguays excellent health care system and medical insurance options. Fitting in with the locals can be a difficult task in a new countryparticularly if youre not sure of the local customs. See Chapters Ten and Eleven for details on Uruguayan culture and some of my best insiders tips for living in Uruguay. Here youll get to learn from my countless social mistakes and faux pas. Uruguay is a tax-friendly country, but theres still a lot youll need to know. In Chapter Twelve, with the help of our resident tax expert, Ill give you the rundown of the tax system in Uruguay as well as some investment tax breaks you can take advantage of. If you are planning on doing business in Uruguay, then Chapters Thirteen and Fourteen will provide you will all the information you will need. Ill tell you why Uruguay is the perfect country to do business in and give you contacts that can help you out. I will also give you details of some commercial property that is currently available in the country. And now for the fun bitin Chapter Fifteen, well cover your exploratory trip to Uruguay. Youll find out how to get here, how to get around, and what to see while youre on the road.
No matter what youre looking for, chances are youll find it in Uruguay
If youve got your heart set on a world-class beach destination, Uruguay has one of the worlds finest at Punta del Este. And for city living, theres Montevideo: the big city thats not so bigthe world capital that still retains somewhat of a small-town feel. If country living, farming, or ranching is more your style, then youll love the Uruguayan Interior, with its miles of open land and low prices, not to mention the small cities and towns that form Uruguays heartland. And lets not forget historic Colonia, the bargain properties of Paysand, or the colonial homes and hot springs of Salto. Whether youre a retiree looking for a safe, secure environmentor an investor seeking out some of the worlds best property investmentsor someone whos always wanted to take on a home restoration, Uruguay will have a place for you.
Introduction
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CHAPTER ONE
A Brief History of Uruguay
Uruguay has had a turbulent history. Over the years, Portugal, Spain, Brazil, and Argentina took turns ruling over this small country. It also survived civil wars and a period of harsh military rule. Today, however, Uruguay has emerged as one of the most stable democracies in Latin America.
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At first, the Spanish ignored this colonization, and did little to try to evict the Portuguese. Their stronghold in the region since 1726 had been Montevideo, which the Portuguese were not threatening at the time. But then the Portuguese started fortifying the area around Montevideo, preparing to challenge the Spanish. The Spanish in turn went after them aggressively and eventually established their rule over the entire country in 1777. The Portuguese however, were not gone for good.
The revolution against Spain brings the return of the Portuguese from Brazil
In 1810 and 1811 the Uruguayan territory was undergoing a period of unrest. Taking advantage of the situation, a group of Uruguayan revolutionaries led by General Jos Gervasio Artigas took the lead in the revolt against Spain. As a result, the Spanish governor was finally driven from Montevideo in 1814. But in 1816, the Portuguese sensed weakness in Uruguay after its struggle with Spain, and they invaded under the pretext of restoring order. The Portuguese managed to conquer Uruguay completely by 1821, and annexed it as part of Portuguese Brazil.
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Agraciada in Uruguays Department of Soriano. This landing was widely seen as the opening volley in Uruguays war for independence from Brazil. The war that followed was somewhat of a stalemate. But in 1827, the British mediated a peace treaty (ratified in 1828) under which both Argentina and Brazil agreed to guarantee Uruguays independence. Why did the British care? They were doing a lot of trade with Uruguay, Argentina, and Brazil. So their objective was to keep Uruguay from reverting to Argentinas control in order that the Ro de la Plata would remain an international waterway. As a result of the treaty, the Repblica Oriental del Uruguay was established in 1828, and its first constitution was signed on July 18, 1830. At the time, Uruguay had only 74,000 inhabitants.
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In the early 20th century, membership in the two rival political groups ceased to be merely a matter of traditional loyalties. The Blancos became the conservative party, attracting chiefly the rural population and the clergy, and the Colorados became known as progressive and proponents of advanced social legislation.
Progressive legislation
Jos Batlle y Ordez, son of President Lorenzo Batlle, introduced the eight-hour workday during his presidency, workers compensation, and the first divorce law in Latin America to recognize womens rights.
Batlles moderately socialist program included the establishment of many government-owned businesses in order to compete with the private sector to provide less expensive services. His agenda also promoted retirement and medical-aid programs; free education; extensive labor legislation; and public health measures. Many of these institutions remain in effect today, and are one reason why Uruguay had a high standard of living and a reputation for being Europe-like as far back as the 1930s.
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In 1917, during World War I, Uruguay broke off relations with Germany. They then leased the German ships (which theyd seized in the harbor of Montevideo) to the United States. They joined the League of Nations in 1920. During this time, Uruguay was in its heyday economically. It had thriving industries built around meat, leather, wool, and clothing, along with a free trade agreement with Great Britain and Europe. Uruguay had a solid and prosperous economy and enjoyed world prominence until free trade ended during the world depression that began in 1929. During World War II, Uruguay severed diplomatic, financial, and economic relations with the Axis powers, and in 1945 the country joined the United Nations.
Americas role
The U.S. participated in the establishment and operation of the dictatorship in a supervisory role, as they did in other countries of the region. In 1976 however, a bill was introduced in the U.S. Congress to withdraw their support for the dictatorship. Unfortunately, the term U.S.backed death squads lived on into the 1980s, as part of the U.S. governments policy against leftist activity and communism in the region.
Presidential elections were finally held in November 1984, with the armed forces exercising veto power over the choice of nominees. The winner was a moderate, Julio Mara Sanguinetti of the Colorado party. He took office in March 1985, and restored full political and civil rights.
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Sanguinetti won the presidential election again in 1994, but in legislative elections, his party ran into trouble. The Frente Amplio party (Broad Front) made significant inroads against the more traditional Blanco and Colorado parties for the first time. The Frente Amplio was a leftist coalition that included Communists, Socialists, and former Tupamaro guerrillas. This legislative electoral upset turned out to be a sign of things to come. In November 1999 the Colorado partys Jorge Batlle defeated the Frente Amplios Tabar Vzquez in Uruguays runoff presidential election. Vzquez had forced the runoff by winning the first round in October, and Batlle was only able to win after enlisting the Blancos support. The Frente Amplio won pluralities in both houses of the legislature in the legislative elections.
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In the 2009 general elections, Agriculture Minister Jos Mujica (Frente Amplio) won against former president Luis Alberto Lacalle, a Blanco. President Mujicas remarkable political career began in the 1960s as a high-ranking member of the Tupamaros guerrilla group. He was shot six times by the police while being arrested, spent 14 years in jail, and was actually confined to the bottom of a well for two years. The folksy Mujica first had the chance to participate in electoral politics in 1985. Since then, hes enjoyed a steady political rise, thanks in part to his blunt and downhome styleand his knack for being politically incorrect. For the most part, President Mujica has continued the policies of President Vasquezpolicies that were good for expats and for business.
Uruguays current president Jos Mujica
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Agncia Brasil
CHAPTER TWO
The Language of Uruguay
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Here are a few to try: Pimsleur (www.pimsleur.com) This is a good choice for lessons on the run, as there is very little bookwork and the lessons can be played on an MP3 or CD player. In the long haul, youll need to catch up on grammar and writing after doing this course, but its an extremely fast vocabulary-builder and gets you up and running quickly. The Pimsleur website is not usually the cheapest place to buy Pimsleur courses, and you can easily find discounters on the Internet that will save you money. For example, Used Pimsleur (http://pimsleurmarketplace.com/used_pimsleur) has used CD-based courses starting at $129, and buyback programs. The Gift of Language (www.thegiftoflanguage.com) has courses starting at $165. And Catees has 30-lesson downloads for just $119, at www.cateespimsleurdownloads.com. (You can even buy single lessons here, for $4.95). Be sure to get the comprehensive courses, which include 30 lessons. When bundles are availabletypically three coursestheyre a good deal, as you will need three courses anyway to get a good start. Rosetta Stone (www.rosettastone.com) The Rosetta Stone course is very popular, and is done interactively on a computer. Their comprehensive courses sell for $179 when sold separately, and for $369 if you buy a three-course bundle. The five-course bundle is $449. For years I was unable to find anyone offering discounts for this course, but Ive recently noticed that Rosetta Stone has started discounting them on their website, so theyre now the same price as at Amazon.com (www.amazon.com). One advantage that Rosetta Stone has is that they offer Spanish courses that are specific to either Latin America or Spain. Personally, I would not consider buying any less than the three-course bundle if you intend on spending any significant time in Latin America. Berlitz (www.berlitz.com) Ive long been a fan of the Berlitz language courses, and in fact started my Spanish study with one. But over the years, they have been easing out of the audio course business in favor of their live classes. If you live near a Berlitz center, this may be a good option if you have the time. (There are two in Montevideo. See below for details) If not, Berlitz also offers online classes. These are not self-study, on-your-own courses, but actual online classes, with classmates and a teacher. See their website for more details. Uruguay: The Owners Manual
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Berlitz in Uruguay
Berlitz has a convenient language center in Montevideo, right on Plaza Independenciawhere Ciudad Vieja meets Centroas well as a center on Bulivar Artigas. They offer a total immersion class thats very intense and very effective, due to the time you spend learning and practicing. Berlitz also has classes for individuals or groups that theyll design to fit your needs. Berlitz Plaza Independencia, Plaza Independencia 1380 bis, Montevideo; tel. +598 2901-5535. Berlitz Bulevar Artigas, Bulevar Artigas 1263, Montevideo; tel. +598 2403-0121; website: www.berlitz.com.uy/spanish_uy.htm#0. La Herradura This school has a branch in Granada, Spain, as well as Montevideo. They have a variety of courses, and supplement them with lots of extracurricular activities. La Herradura Centro de Enseanza Espaol, Joaqun de Salteran 1240, Montevideo; tel. +598 2409-7894; e-mail: info@spanish-herradura.com; website: www.spanish-herradura.com. Area If youd like to learn Spanish as its spoken in Spain as well as in Uruguay, this school will be a good option. Its the only one I could find in Colonia. REA Escuela de Espaol, Calle de San Jose 140, Centro Histrico, Colonia del Sacramento; tel. +598 (95) 473-837 and (786) 272-9426 (in the U.S.); e-mail: info@areaene.com. Spanish Uruguay They have a learning center in Montevideo as well as one in Atlntida. In addition to the normal beginner, intermediate, and advanced courses, they also offer special courses geared to specific business disciplines or industries. Spanish Uruguay; e-mail: info@spanishuruguay.com; website: www.spanishuruguay.com.
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My favorite phrase book has always been Fodors Spanish for Travelers, but Ill admit that Ive had it since 1996, so Im probably sentimentally attached to it. I also enjoy using the Berlitz Spanish Phrase Book, and like Lonely Planets Latin American Spanish phrase book. There are a lot of good ones on the market. Theyre all under $10 and available on Amazon (www.amazon.com). A reputable travel guidebook This Owners Manual will be great for familiarizing you with Uruguay as a potential expat needs to see it, but its not a travel guidebook. A good travel guidebook will not only tell you about the restaurants, hotels, and sights in your new country, but will also be an excellent resource for language quirks that are particular to the country. Lonely Planet is one of my favorites, and usually has a good language section.
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An electronic pocket Spanish dictionary will be worth its weight in gold. I personally have used the Franklin dictionaries for years (www.franklin.com/dictionaries) and they continue to be my favorite. Several manufacturers also make dictionaries that pronounce the word for you, but I dont use them for two reasons: One is that Spanish is written phonetically, meaning that the words are always pronounced as theyre written. The other, more important, reason is that most talking models wont fit in my pocketand a dictionary is of limited use if its not with you when you need it. If youd like the speaking version to help you with pronunciation, Id get the pocket version to go with it.
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baldosa = tiles, usually of the antique type used in older homes bao principal = master bathroom bodega = storage room calefaccin = heat cartel = sign
bao compartido = shared bathroom among two or more bedrooms bao derecepcin = the half bathroom used by guests
cocina con office = kitchen with built-in cupboards, or kitchen anteroom with cupboards contrafrente = facing away from the front, normally away from the street or view
dependencia = service quarters (see also servicio) dormitorio principal = master bedroom empotrada = built-in, such as with closets or cupboards estar = a small family room or sitting room estufa a gas = gas-burning stove
escritorio = study, or home library (oficina and estudio are not used for this)
gastos communes = condo or homeowners fees in a building or development hogar = fireplace inodoro = toilet
habitacin = bedroom (dormitorio and cuarto are understood, but used less often)
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placar = closet/cupboard portero = doorman pozo de luz (or pozo de aire) = an open space built into city buildings to provide interior light and air to living spaces with no outside windows. Literally, it translates to light (or air) well
saladejuegos = game room servicio = maids quarters terraza = terrace teja = roof tile, normally clay but sometimes ceramic in Uruguay toilette = half-bath (no tub or shower) normally used by visitors in living area vestidor = dressing room vigilancia = security, by means of a guard or watchman vivienda = dwelling or home vista = view Utility items and areas bomba = pump cochera = carport
galpn = storage shed, normally on a rural property perforacin = fresh water well
garage = garage (pronounced like the English, with a softer g) pozo = normally a tank or area to catch rainwater, but could also be a cesspool or a well
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deposito = storage area or pantry (rather than bodega) lindero = border, or property line parquizado = park-like
portn = large door at the propertys entrance through which you enter the driveway
quebrada = a gulley generally for seasonal runoff, sometimes with a full-time stream
Spanish history
When the Iberian Peninsula was conquered by Rome in 19 B.C., Latin became the official language of present-day Spain. But because the Iberian version still retained some vocabulary from the Celts, Visigoths, and Carthaginians, the language was referred to as Vulgar Latin by the upper classes in Rome. During the 700-year Moorish occupation of Spain, the official language became Arabic, along with a variation called Mozarabic. But in the northern province of Asturias, Vulgar Latin survived. The Moors were expelled in the late 1400s, but todays Spanish still includes over 4,000 words with Arabic roots. In 1492, the book Arte de la Lengua Castellana (The Art of the Castilian Language, by Antonio de Nebrija) became the first book to study and attempt to define the grammar of a European language. It began to formalize the Spanish language, almost as we know it today. There are two major dialects in modern Spanish, Castilian and Andalusian, which are fairly similar in nature. Both versions came to the New World, with Andalusian used more commonly outside the high-class cultural centers. In the Americas, Spanish has also picked up many words from the indigenous languages in the region. Spanish is spoken today by around 350 million people. It is the official language of 20 countries (if you count Puerto Rico), and it is widely spoken in many more. For example, 35.5 million people in the United States speak Spanish as their first language at home. And with a total of 45 million fluent Spanish-speakers, the U.S. has more than Spain, Argentina, and Colombia combined.
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Familiar or formal?
Uruguayans use the familiar or t form of Spanish almost exclusively, except in formal situations. Even on first meeting, most people skip the usted in favor of familiar Spanish. (For second person plural, however, stick with Ustedes. Vosotros is used only occasionally.)
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And even more familiar than addressing someone as t is to use vos. In practice, vos is not simply used in place of tonly in certain contexts. My suggestion here is to listen to how its used before trying it yourself.
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Good morning is buen da, not buenos das. Here is ac, rather than aqu. A hotel maid is a mucama, not a camarera. How are you? isCmo Andas? (Hows it going?) and rarely Como ests? The main course in a restaurant is the plato principal, never the plato fuerte. To need follows the Brazilian-preferred precisar rather than the Spanishpreferred necesitar. (A common greeting from a store clerk is Qu precisaba? meaning What did you need? Perhaps is normally capaz, and occasionally quizs, rarely tal vez. If youre ready, youre pronto, not listo. A sign is a cartel, not a letrero. Your waiter is a mozo, not a mesero. Wrong way on a one-way street is contramano, not contrava. For youre welcome use noooo, por favor (or maybe por nada), seldom de nada. These differences aside, you generally wont have any problem using the terms youre accustomed to if you already speak Spanish. The list above is a preference, but they often understand the words used in other countries. But be careful: I had a real estate agent refer to a pozo (which in Ecuador is a fresh-water well) and thought I understood. What he was talking about was a cesspoolan important distinction.
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CHAPTER THREE
The Uruguayan Economy
When a retiring expat chooses a country, the countrys economy can be among the least-exciting criteria for making that choice. But thats not true in Uruguay today. In fact, its robust economy, solid financial system and strong currency are among the biggest reasons for todays popularity. Take look at these latest GDP growth rates, courtesy of the CIA: Uruguay: 8.5% Brazil: 7.5% Argentina: 7.5% Germany: 3.5% France: 1.5% United States: 2.8% Uruguay provides the perfect environment to invest or do business. An exportoriented agricultural sector, a well-educated workforce, and high levels of social spending define its strong economy.
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declined. Also, many countries began to impose trade restrictions, which further reduced exports. This generated an increase in unemployment as well as a lowering of wages. Uruguays recovery from the Great Depression lagged behind that of the U.S., and occurred between 1943 and 1947. During the 1950sthanks to rising exports of agricultural products Uruguayans incomes were among the highest in Latin America. But in the 1960s, Uruguay imposed its own trade restrictions in an attempt to protect local industry through high tariffs. While at first successful, the long-term results were high inflation, lagging productivity, and low GDP growth. At the same time, creation of the European Economic Community reduced market access to Europe for agricultural products, contributing to economic decline and political instability during the early 1970s.
In the mid-1970s, the government liberalized its trade policies and the financial sector, and began reducing public sector employment. This led to solid export and GDP growth. However, the economy suffered from an increasingly overvalued exchange rate and high public-sector deficits, financed by heavy borrowing from overseas. Global recession compounded Uruguays problems as exports and foreign investment declined. In November 1982, with the economy in recession, Uruguay abandoned the fixed-exchange rate, and the peso was devalued. The GDP declined 16% from 1982 through 1984 and unemployment soared to 14%. The economy started recovering in 1985 and grew steadily until the late 1990s, achieving a growth rate of 5% annually during the period from 1996 to 1998.
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Declining central bank reserves forced the government to abandon its exchange rate policies, and the peso fell to almost half of its value (against the dollar) within a few weeks. Inflation, which was only 3.6% in 2001, rose significantly in 2002.
The total GDPin the four years between 1999 and 2002dropped by nearly 20%, with 2002 being the worst year due to the continuing banking crisis in Argentina. Unemployment rose to nearly 20% in 2002, inflation surged, and the burden of external debt doubled.
A bailout from the International Monetary Fund (IMF) limited the damage. The debt swap with private creditors carried out in 2003which extended the maturity dates on nearly half of Uruguays $11.3 billion in public debtsubstantially alleviated the countrys amortization burden and restored public confidence.
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This official data is courtesy of the Instituto Nacional de Estadisticas, and are the latest available as of December 13, 2011. Unemployment dropped once again since 2010, while inflation is higher. Note that, unlike the U.S., food and fuel are part of the Consumer Price Index in Uruguay.
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This data is courtesy of The World Factbook, published by the U.S. Central Intelligence Agency. They are the latest available as of December 13, 2011. To put these numbers in perspective, here are a couple of economic powerhousesan old dynasty and a new one: Indicator GDP per capita GDP real growth Poverty level (households) Public debt (percent of GDP) Trade deficit/surplus Budget deficit/surplus United States $47,200 () 2.8% () 15.1% () 62.9% () 50% deficit () 37% deficit () Brazil $10,800 () 7.5% () 26% () 54.7% () 10% surplus () 7.9% surplus ()
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CHAPTER FOUR
Finding Your Region and Your Home
With so many great lifestyle choices, your biggest problem in Uruguay may be deciding where to live. The country gives you several terrific options for city life, as well as perhaps the widest array of seaside alternatives that youre likely to see, from small waterfront homes to sprawling oceanfront mansions valued in the millions. Uruguay is also home to one of Latin Americas most beautifully restored colonial cities, vast stretches of ranchland, and small towns that will remind you of the American Midwest. Regardless of the lifestyle youre looking for, chances are youll find it in Uruguay.
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Lunch today was at the Brazilian Club, about a half-block from my downtown apartment. The view from their thirdfloor window was great, as was the grilled sea bass entree, wine, flan dessert, and espresso. Well worth the $7. This evening, well decide between the orchestra at Teatro Sols and a jazz quartet at Sala Zitarrosaor maybe well just take our lawn chairs downstairs to Plaza Entrevero to join our neighbors, as everyone dances the tango to music in the park.
Contact information?
Remember, a complete list of contact information can be found in Appendix A, including real estate professionals, tourist information, and medical facilities.
Tango dancers regularly show off their skills on the streets of Montevideo
Afterwards, well have to choose between Paninisone of the best fine-dining venues that Montevideo has to offeror a local parrillada, with its eight foot-long wood-fired grill, sizzling with delectable meats and vegetables, or one of the dozens of small neighborhood restaurants within a few blocks of our apartment. Tuesdays and Fridays are when our local street market arrives: when the vendors close the street to sell their fresh fruits and vegetables, and all the neighbors turn out to see what looks good. On Saturday Ill look forward to the flea market at Plaza Constitucin, followed by lunch at the old waterfront port.
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This lifestyle is just what I was looking for in a city apartment. Just about everything I need can be found on my block, and everything I want to do is within easy walking distance. This is city life in Montevideo, and is what attracted me to Uruguay in the first place. For a map of the city of Montevideo, click here: www.nationsonline.org/oneworld/map/google_map_Montevideo.htm.
Montevideo has some very nice, clean beaches, popular with the locals and tourists alike
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blockswhile over 100,000 people come to work here on weekdays. Locals and tourists, on the other hand, own the weekends. It reminds me of Manhattan, which enjoys a totally different character between weekdays and weekends. Ciudad Vieja is where youll find the national theater, Teatro Sols, and a few of the citys best bars and restaurants, as well as antique stores, bookshops, art galleries, and jewelry stores, all with reasonable prices. Bisecting the most popular section of Ciudad Vieja, Peatonal Sarand is a pedestrian walkway (youll see the word peatonal often in Uruguay, its used to describe a pedestrian walkway). Construction began on the first phase in 1995, its second phase was completed in 2005, and its final phase was finished in 2010. In its wake, Peatonal Sarand is creating a more-upscale environment, as high-end shops, restaurants, and artisans replace a somewhat run-down part of the city. The same is happening now with Peatonal Prez Castillano. Plaza Zabala is located in the center of Ciudad Vieja, and it is Montevideos original central square. Shaded by tall trees, it is small, quiet, and residential, but located only one block from the now-famous Peatonal Sarand, with its nice restaurants and cafs.
If you want to escape the hustle and bustle of the city for a while, relax in the shady Plaza Zabala
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But be aware that there are two sides to Ciudad Vieja, as is the case with most of Montevideo. The artisans, galleries, and theaters are one face of Ciudad Vieja. But on the other hand, parts of the west end of this sector look like theyve been through an urban civil war, and appear to be many years away from any sort of urban renewal. Beautifully restored buildings can coexist just a short distance from crumbling heaps, and youve got to study the trends to know which way the gentrification is moving. Also, Ciudad Vieja has Montevideos worst crime, as the citys pickpockets, thieves, and beggars come to welcome the tourists to the city, a situation that has improved quite a bit as Ciudad Vieja continues through its restoration.
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The contractor delivered their well-equipped, modern apartment, and they furnished and decorated it on the local market. Its a rental property situated in the area thats most sought-after by visitors to Montevideo. They did a super jobyou can have a look at the property here: www.casasarandi356.com. I come to Montevideo every few weeks, and always enjoy the fine dining, music, and shows. But nonetheless, you shouldnt come to Montevideo just for the upscale restaurants and entertainment. Come for the old neighborhoods and the local markets and swap meets set up in the streetcome for the grizzled barman and his hand-operated espresso press. These are what the city is really about.
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If youre looking for a property thats all ready to move into, theres a nice studio apartment on Peatonal Walkway Sarand. Built in 2001, its a second-floor unit, with 1,097 square feet of living area with a single bedroom and bathroom. Price: $102,000. Contact AC Propiedades at; e-mail: info@acpropiedades.com; website: http://acpropiedades.com. A note on property prices: The properties listed in this chapter are ones that we chose because wed personally consider living theregood properties at low prices. They are not the least expensive properties available.
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Brazil Club and the Basque Club, both of which are open to the public. Some of my favorites are tucked away so well that it took me a year to discover them.
Centros Plaza del Entrevero has a neighborly feel to it and is a good part of Montevideo for city living
Best of all, the property prices are usually less than what youll find in Ciudad Vieja for a move-in condition property.
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Most Uruguayans I know do not live in Centro or Ciudad Vieja, but rather in Montevideos more upscale areas. Whats nice about these neighborhoods is that they dont feel like outliers or suburbs. While still part of the city, they are each fairly self-contained, with their own downtown areas, super restaurants and cafs, and a unique character. Pocitos is an upscale community thats a favorite among Uruguayans. Its restaurants and beaches are the best in the city. It also has become somewhat of a branded neighborhood. When you hear Pocitos in Montevideo, its synonymous with exclusive, nice, and high-end.
The neighborhood of Pocitos is a high-end area of the city with the best beaches and restaurants
Buceo, Malvin, and Punta Gorda are also pleasant seaside neighborhoods, which offer quiet sycamore-lined streets, good shopping areas, and access to nice downtown beaches. In any of these areas, you can expect to pay as high as $3,000 per square meter ($279 per square foot) for the nicest properties, although you can find low-end properties for much less. A neat Pocitos 1950-vintage house with three bedrooms, one-and-a-half bathrooms, air conditioning, and alarm systems, completely remodeled and ready to go. Its a cozy house, just 1,140 square feet but quite nicely remodeled, and the rooftop terrace is huge. Price: $186,500. Contact Janet Rosenchtein for details: e-mail: janetrosenchtein@inmobiliaria.com.uy.
Dreamstime.com/Carlos Gregorini
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In a quiet area of Pocitos, theres a 1960s apartment in very good condition on offer. A first-floor unit, it has a peaceful leafy view of the street with two bedrooms, two bathrooms and an office, as well as a nice terrace off the living area. Everything has been remodeled and air conditioning is installed. Price $160,000. For more information, contact Silvana Corsato Inmobiliaria: e-mail: info@crosato.com.uy; website: www.crosato.com.uy. A classic Pocitos house, well worth restoration, has arched wooden windows, period molding details, and high ceilings. This cozy two-story house has 1,431 square feet of living area, three bedrooms, and one-anda-half bathrooms. This would be a great investment in a high-end area. Price: $190,000. For more information, contact Prandi Grupo Inmobiliario at www.pathfinderinternational.net/ContactUs/prandi/. One of the nicest areas in the city is Carrasco, home to many foreign businessmen and diplomats. Its near the international airport, and enjoys such amenities as bilingual schools, golf and tennis clubs, and a polo and equestrian club. Carrasco has a beautiful beach, its only 20 minutes from Ciudad Vieja or Centro, and just over an hour from the famous resorts at Punta del Este. Theres an attractive house for sale in Barra de Carrasco. A brick two-story built in 2002, the house has 1,506 square feet of living area, with three bedrooms, one-and-a-half bathrooms, and a spacious living/dining area with fireplace. Theres also alarm and irrigation systems, a two-car garage, along with an electrical heating system with area controls. Price: $220,000. Contact Molla Profesionales Inmobiliaria for more information; e-mail: ventas@juanpedromolla.com. In a quiet neighborhood of Carrasco, theres a small brick house of 1,291 square feet with beautiful gardens and an interior patio. Built in 1986, the house has three bedrooms, two bathrooms, air conditioning, and a two-car garage. Price: $175,000. For additional information, e-mail: mela@inmobilliaria.com.uy. Theres a beauty on the rambla of Carrasco. This house has a gorgeous waterfront view and 1,614 square feet of living area, including three bedrooms and three bathrooms on two floors. Floors are tropical hardwood and theres a two-car garage and a nice sized yard. Price: $248,000. Contact Praino Propiedades for additional information at; e-mail: praino@inmobilliaria.com.uy.
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If youre more interested in apartment living, there are plenty of classy new ones on the market in Carrasco, ready for move-in. For example, you can buy a 1,861-square-foot, three-bedroom, two-bathroom unit in the lovely Alamos de Carrasco. Complex amenities include heated pool, club house, gym, spa, tennis courts, and 24-hour security. Price: $208,000. Contact the broker at info@monymar.com for details.
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Ciudad de la Costa
Uruguays beaches begin in downtown Montevideo and continue all the way to Brazil, almost 200 miles away. As you can imagine, the character of the coast changes dramatically along the way. Ciudad de la Costa (city of the coast) is the first beach area that youll find when leaving Montevideo to the east. It begins at the Montevideo city limit and extends to the waterway called Arroyo Pando. It includes the balnearios (shore points, or beaches) of Lagomar, Shangrila, Solymar, and El Pinar. Ciudad de la Costa begins as a somewhat tired-looking suburb with a commercial feel, but dont be discouraged; it soon turns into a nicely wooded seaside area, thick with pines and sprinkled with pleasant beaches and small towns.
The houses in this area feel like all-year homes, and in fact some people here make the easy daily commute to Montevideo, either driving on the coastal highway or using the frequent public transit. Ciudad de la Costa ends at the town of El Pinar, a small yet self-sufficient village that borders on the stream Arroyo Pando. El Pinar is at a point where the coastal road traffic must either turn away from the coast to get on the highway or dead-end into the wide mouth of Arroyo Pando. Consequently, its a quiet town with no through traffic, giving it a secluded feel despite its proximity to Montevideo.
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Costa de Oro
This part of the coastgold coast in Englishgoes between waterways Arroyo Pando and Arroyo Sols Grande. It includes the balnearios of Neptunia, Pinamar, Salinas, Marindia, Villa Argentina, Atlntida, Las Toscas, Parque del Plata, and La Floresta. The Costa de Oro was one of Uruguays early seashore destinations, harkening back to the days before coastal travelers had a fast, modern highway. But, once Piripolis and Punta del Este began to develop (and became an easy drive from Montevideo), much of the vacation business migrated up the coast in their direction. What progress left behind on the Costa de Oro was a mature and wooded coastal setting free of highrises and with few casinos, but loaded with nowinexpensive properties.
The Costa de Oro is a wooded coastal area, without the highrises that youll find in the more popular coastal resorts
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This section of coastline does not have the reputation or the international traffic youll find in Punta del Este, so dont look for Punta del Estes impressive returns or highly liquid market. The ocean here is really the mouth of a river, so it will lose its blue color when upstream rains or Argentine currents bring runoff. Yet for seaside living, this stretch of coast now represents the best value in Uruguay. Yes, there are better investments if you want capital gain or rental returns. But Costa de Oro is where youll pay the least to be among nice surroundings on the water. The town of Salinas shares much of its service/commercial center with the nearby town of Pinamar, but also has a gym, day care center, and hardware store of its own, as well as a bus terminal on the beach where you can catch the bus to or from Montevideo. On the rambla in Salinas, theres a solid, four-bedroom, two-bathroom home for sale, with 1,345 square feet of living area and water views. The house, built in 1970, has fireplaces in both the living room and master bedroom. The property has irrigation and alarm systems installed. Price: $80,000. For more details, contact Elena Martinelli Inmobiliaria; e-mail: info@em.com.uy. Also on offer in Salinas is the largest and most fetching house in the area. Built in 1960, with over 130 feet of rambla frontage and 5,500 square feet of living area, the property would easily support a beautiful B&B, social club, or a very large family. There are six bedrooms, three bathrooms, and covered parking for eight cars and a half-acre lawn. Price: $195,000. For further details, contact Julieta Inmobiliaria; e-mail: julieta@inmobiliaria.com.uy; website: http://julietainmobiliaria.com. Marindia is a quiet town at the end of the coastal road, with long stretches of beach and few dwellings. Its hilly, so properties have unobstructed views over the dunes to the water. Marindia has a clinic, supermarkets, Internet cafs, a lawyer, bars, a vet, and a pharmacy. I also found a movie rental store and a bakery to round out the services. In Marindia, theres an attractive 3,000-square-foot, water view property on an elevated third of an acre lot, with four bedrooms, two-and-a-half bathrooms, and a garage. The house has two stories and is located less than 100 yards from the water. Price: $250,000. For details, contact Praga Negocios Inmobiliarios; e-mail: praga@inmobiliaria.com.uy; website: www.praga.com.uy.
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Atlntida is a pleasant beach resort with golden, sandy beaches and an affordable range of real estate
Atlntidas sidewalk cafs and restaurants are busy; they fill the air with smoke from their wood-fired grills, sizzling steaks, chorizo, chicken, and grilled vegetables.
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The town itself consists mainly of stately, larger homes, reminiscent of a bygone era. Most streets are lined with giant eucalyptus trees that provide a peaceful, shady setting. Atlntida is fairly self-sufficient, with a local movie theater, hardware and grocery stores, churches, a country club, and even a clinic. In the winter things quiet down and the towns permanent residents go about their everyday lives. Atlntida doesnt become a ghost town as do some resorts, but you certainly wont find the level of activity that you will between the summer months of December and March. Ive been there to see it on a weekend in mid-winter, and found it fairly active with most restaurants open. Considering its beauty, its beaches, and its prices, you wont find a better deal than Atlntida.
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One of my favorite properties in this area is a two-story fixer-upper built in 1955, sitting on a corner facing the river. The house has 1,258 square feet of living area which includes two bedrooms and two bathrooms, a fireplace in the living-dining area, all with old fashioned, hand painted tile floors. The lot sets off the house really well, with a low wall and hedge surrounding it. Theres also a single-car garage and covered barbecue attached to a storage building. Price: $66,000. For details, contact Moreno Inmobiliaria; e-mail: informes@inmobiliariamoreno.com; website: www.inmobiliariamoreno.com. With incredible views of the beach dunes and flowers, theres a roomy, well-maintained house for sale in Parque del Plata. It has 1,936 square feet of living area, with two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a large eat-in kitchen, and a single car garage. Price: $220,000. For additional information, contact Viola Inmobiliaria; e-mail: voila@inmobiliaria.com.uy; website: www.voila.inmobiliaria.com.uy.
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In Las Flores, theres a neat thatched roof cabana for sale, just a block from the beach. It has 1,345 square feet of living space on two floors, with three bedrooms sharing one bathroom. Outside theres a fenced yard with a covered barbecue. Price: $130,000. For more details, contact Alberto Prandi; e-mail: www.pathfinderinternational.net/ContactUs/prandi/; website: www.albertoprandi.com. Playa Hermosa lies just down-coast of (and within sight of) Piripolis. The neighborhood is actually on a loop road that runs along the water rather than the main coastal roadso its very quiet with almost no traffic. Theres a tempting property here, with 1,484 square feet of living space, on two floors. There are three bedrooms, two bathrooms, and a guest house with two additional bedrooms sharing a bathroom. The house is a brick contemporary, with beautiful water views from both the house and guest house. Price: $212,000. For more details, contact Hogares & Campos; e-mail: hogaresycampos@inmobiliaria.com.uy.
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Piriapolis still retains the feel of an old-fashioned 50s seaside resort, and fills to the brim with vacationers in the summertime
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If youre not afraid of a little cosmetic work, theres an apartment in a 1950s building in the center of town. Less than a block from the beach, it has 968 square feet, including three bedrooms and three bathrooms. The property also has secure parking for two cars Price: $110,000. Contact Gonzalez Propiedades; e-mail: Piripolis@gonzalezpropiedades.com.uy; website: www.gonzalezpropiedades.com.uy. Theres a recently-finished condo project in Piripolis called Cerro San Antonio, where each condo has a scenic waterfront view of the marina and adjacent bay. A two-bedroom, two-bathroom unit (936 square feet) there is listed right now with real estate agent Eleven (e-mail: eleven@internet.com.uy). Price: $155,000. A three-bedroom, two-bathroom unit is available (1,400 square feet) through Inmobiliaria Playa (e-mail: info@playa.com.uy). Price: $245,000. Punta Colorada is a point that juts out into the ocean just up the coast from Piripolis as you go towards Punta del Este. I particularly like this area because a well-situated house can have a 270-degree view of an awesome section of coastline. Its about five minutes from downtown Piripolis. One IL reader wrote a while back to tell me about a great deal he got here. He picked up a roomy, thatched-roof home high on the hillside of Punta Colorada, where just about every room has a view of the water. The large deck offers a commanding sea view of almost 270 degrees, and he paid just $110,000, with a financing arrangement. I went to see the house, and he wasnt exaggerating; it was everything he said it was, and more. Theres a thatched-roof bargain, sitting at the top of the peninsula with a great water view. Its a two-story house with 1,076 square feet and a single loft bedroom overlooking the living and kitchen area. Also included is a small guest house and barbecue. Built in 1990, its a solid building, but it needs some generous TLC to make it into a nice home. Price: $110,000. Contact Alda Propiedades for more information; e-mail: alda@alda.com.uy; website: www.alda.com.uy. Theres a lovely property for sale right now on Punta Colorada. Three of the four bedrooms in this house have water views and the terrace has a commanding water and coastline view, all the way to Punta del Este. This single-floor house has 2,905 square feet of living area, with four bedrooms, two bathrooms, and a full barbecue on the terrace. Price: $240,000. Get more information from Ojeda Propiedades; e-mail: ojeda@inmobiliaria.com.uy.
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Portezuelo
As you drive from Punta del Este toward Montevideo, there is no more impressive sight than that of Portezuelo as viewed from the hillcrest at Punta Ballena. The wide, sandy beach curves away into the distance for some 20 miles, edged by blue waters and green forest. And Portezuelo is not only the site of a famous beach, but also one of Uruguays hottest jazz clubs, Medio y Medio. Ive always felt that real estate in this area (Punta Ballena-Portezuelo) was quite undervalued. But the beauty of the sector has caught on, and prices have appreciated quite nicely in the past three years. On the waterfront in Portezuelo, theres a beautiful quincho for sale, in impeccable condition. With 1,936 square feet of living area on two floors, including four bedrooms and two bathrooms, it is only 20 yards from the beach. Price: $350,000. Contact the listing agent L&M Inmobiliaria for more information; e-mail: marcheseinmobiliaria@gmail.com.
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This is the stunning view over Portezuelo from the hillcrest at Punta Ballena
Theres a great quincho right now in Portezuelo. Less than a block from the water and with ocean views, this property has 2,690 square feet distributed between the two-floor main house and the combined guest and barbecue house. All together there are four bedrooms, four bathrooms, and two kitchens. Price: $350,000. Contact Portico Inmobiliaria for details; e-mail: inmobiliariaportico@gmail.com. This area has a vacation rental market, and you should be able to rent a property during the high season. You should expect to get around 6% if you have a waterfront or near-waterfront view property, and youll probably get it all in January and February. The rents here are lower than Punta del Este, but the property prices are lower as well. If youd like to rent a property, houses in Piripolis cost between $600 and $1,800 per low-season month, depending on size, location, and amenities. Noel and Gonzalez Inmobiliaria has most of them, but youll have to ask for prices and availability for each one that interests you. Keep in mind that the prices listed here are for low season months (April through November). These same houses can rent for as much as $9,000 in January alone. Check them out at http://noel.inmobiliaria.com.uy or www.gonzalezpropiedades.com.uy.
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Piripolis and its property market dont get the international traffic that youll find in Punta del Este, so it doesnt have the same liquidity. Accordingly, resales can be slower. But this zone has a lot to offer. Its near Punta del Estewith its restaurants, shows, and nightlifebut far enough away from it to carry a lower price-tag. Piripolis itself has a feel that is homey and comfortable. For old-fashioned seaside living at good prices, Piripolis is a good choice.
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Punta del Este is Uruguays number one tourist destinationwith beaches being a major attraction
Intrinsic value: Punta del Este is a naturally beautiful place. Situated on a point jutting out into the ocean, its old (highrise-free) historic center and lighthouse mark the spot where Ro de la Plata becomes the Atlantic Ocean. The beaches are wide, long, and beautiful, with calm waters on one side of the point and normal ocean waves on the other. The trees in many places come quite close to the beach. Lifestyle: Punta del Este offers a variety of lifestyles. The town itself is home to more fine-dining establishments than youll find anywhere, offering cuisine from all over the worldalthough the fresh-caught seafood is what brings most people to their tables. There are highrise casinos, big-time shows, and concerts. The shopping is world-class, with everything from small boutiques to modern shopping malls. Yet if you go just a half-mile away, youll find yourself in a quiet residential setting, with large lawns and beautiful homes that dont need fences, perimeter walls, or bars on the windows. A bit further away and you can live in a rural, wooded setting, yet still be close to all the town has to offer.
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Infrastructure: The department of Maldonado puts a lot of money into keeping things nice in Punta del Este in order to keep the visitors coming back. Crews walk the beaches every morning at daybreak, raking the sand, emptying trash receptacles, and picking up any stray refuse. The roads and streets are clean and well kept, and even the shrubs growing wild on the dunes are trimmed every year. New wooden walkways traverse the dunes here and there for people who may have difficulty walking in the sand. Liquidity: People come by the hundreds of thousands to visit Punta del Este every year, and lots of them have an eye out for property. They are led by visitors from Argentina and Brazil, but also include large numbers from Europe and beyond. This huge amount of international traffic is not found anywhere else in Uruguay, and it results in thousands of properties being sold every yearjust what you need if youre concerned about resale. And luckily, the Punta del Este market is not dependent on the U.S. economy. Dollars: Properties in Punta del Este are priced in dollars, as they are throughout Uruguay. This is terrific on the international market, since dollars are valued fairly low right now. While its a break-even for the dollar-holder, its a huge bonus for those holding powerful currencies, which helps again with resale. But there is no free lunch These amenities come at a cost. Punta del Este has the highest dayto-day cost of living in Uruguay, and everything is somewhat more expensive than elsewhere. Taxes are higher, restaurants charge more, and even groceries can cost more than in Montevideo or the Interior. Potential buyers need to decide whether or not this increased cost is worth the lifestyle and market that comes with Punta del Este.
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Flickr.com/Vince Alongi
Technically, the tip of the Peninsula separates the Atlantic Ocean from Ro de la Plata, although for all practical purposes, it all appears to be ocean when youre looking from the shoreline. The road that runs along these beacheslike any waterfront road in Uruguayis called the rambla, and its marked by bus stops called paradas. Normally when youre given the location of a property, it will be in reference to the parada. (The numbers get higher as you get further from the Peninsula.) For
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example, one home I looked at was on Playa Brava, parada 10; another was on Playa Mansa, parada 33. Avenida Roosevelt runs north to Maldonado, and is also marked with paradas. The Punta del Este international airport lies about 15 miles west of town. This sounds nice in the tourist brochures, but it doesnt service many destinations, and charges more for the few places it does. For maps of Punta del Este and the surrounding area, see www.vivapunta.com/en/contenido/vinculos/mapas/index.html.
The Peninsula is the heart of Punta del Este. Here youll find the exclusive shopping, the areas best restaurants, casinos, hotels, and highrises. If youre one who loves the city and wants to be in the center of all the action, then the Peninsula is where you want to be. There are nice apartments and homes here, both old and new, and both quiet and bustling. If I lived on the peninsula, I believe Id be comfortable without a car. Located in the area of parada 33 on the Mansa side, Pinares is often described as the best area for those who are looking for more permanent living as opposed to owning a rental or vacation property. Yes, you can rent properties here, but the area is better known for its quiet streets, larger non-vacation homes, and lower property prices. Punta Ballena is the end of the Punta del Este area on the Mansa side. Its tasteful homes and quiet streets are well worth a look for the potential expat. Whats more, theres a nice, three-circuit, 20-hole golf course, tennis club, fine lakeside restaurant, and resort located in the woods nearby at Club del Lago.
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Heading over to the Brava side in the area of parada 10, San Rafael is among the most desirable of the Punta del Este suburbs. It has a small commercial area consisting of about a blocks worth of stores, including a small grocery and a pharmacy.
Romantic hideaways
In Uruguays exclusive seaside resort of Punta del Este, international visitors often come to stay in luxurious seaside mansions, posh casinos, or gleaming condos. But less than two miles outside of town, youll find what may be the mostromantic hideaway on the Uruguayan coast; Hotel LAuberge. LAuberge is a Tudor-style country hotel, set in a tranquil area surrounded by towering pines. A quiet beach is just a few blocks away. Adorned with antiques and works of art, its a charming mix of the English-manor style, blended with French pastels in the style of Provence. All rooms are luxurious, and you can enjoy views of its lush garden and glistening pool or even stay at the top of its landmark tower, overlooking the woods and ocean. Some rooms have Jacuzzis and some have fireplaces while all offer a coziness and warmth that makes LAuberge memorable. Aside from its signature tower, LAuberge is well-known for its tea salon on the garden. The afternoon tea is always a hit with guestsbut its also a long-standing tradition with local residents, who particularly enjoy the freshbaked waffles and thick hot chocolate on a winter afternoon. Youll find LAuberge on Playa Brava, in Barrio Club de Golf. See their website at www.laubergehotel.com.
Rincon del Indio is my favorite sector in the area, starting at parada 23 and ending at the river Arroyo Maldonado, and is the last of the Punta del Este neighborhoods before you hit La Barra. It still has several large tracts of undeveloped wooded land. Most of the homes are on treed lots, and the area maintains a rural feel all its own. The beaches here are separated from the rambla by tall, rolling dunes, and most of the year theyre deserted. From the waterline you can see the highrises of the Peninsulaonly a few minutes awayoff in the distance.
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La Barra marks the end of the region on the northeastern side. Its not a neighborhood of Punta del Este, but rather an independent small seaside town. While La Barra is a picturesque, quiet village in the off season, its one of the busiest and most chic areas to be in the high season. The restaurants in La Barra are great, with everything from northern Italian to parrillada to sushi.
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Now if youd like a wider selection and lower prices, do what I did: look a couple of blocks inland. At 200 to 300 yards away, you can still hear the roar of the waves and easily walk to the beach. These properties are less than 200 yards from the ocean: Under $150,000: 70 properties (10 houses, 60 apartments) Under $200,000: 126 properties (26 houses, 100 apartments) Under $250,000: 194 properties (38 houses and 156 apartments) I even found a modest selection (18 properties) listed for less than $100,000. As you can see, there is plenty of inventory at good prices. Its not as inexpensive as Atlntida or Piripolis, but Punta del Este is quite a different animal.
This thatched-roof house near Laguna del Sauce is typical of many homes in the area
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Continuing on towards the Punta del Este Peninsula, I looked at a number of houses in the shady neighborhood of Pinares, named for the old pine forest that covers most of the area. Theres a contemporary house in Pinares, less than 200 yards from the water. The 1,130-square-foot floor plan is efficient, with two bedrooms and one-and-a-half bathrooms, and living and dining areas, all with gleaming wood floors and layered stone walls. Wall-to-wall living room windows look out onto the deck, yard, and swimming pool. Of course, theres the ever present covered barbecue and a one-car garage. Price $200,000. Contact Voil Inmobiliaria for details; e-mail: voila@inmobiliaira.com.uy; website: www.voila.inmobiliaria.com.uy.
Theres another home 100 yards from the water that has a sea view from the second-floor terrace. The house is a big one, with 2,690 square feet, four bedrooms, three bathrooms and a maids quarters. The landscaped yard is a quarter acre and includes the traditional covered patio with barbecue. This house has plenty of light thanks to lots of good sized windows. Minor repair work is needed. Price: $250,000. Iavecchia Propiedades can provide more information; e-mail: info@iavecchia.com; website: http://iavecchia.com. A waterfront apartment in Pinares with two-bedrooms and two-bathrooms in 750 square feet of living area. The living area and terrace have an endless ocean view and building amenities include swimming pool, game room, covered parking, and gym. Price: $200,000. This furnished property is also listed with Iavecchia Propiedades; website: http://iavecchia.com. Avenida Gorlero is the main artery and the epicenter of the Punta del Este Peninsula. Its the throbbing heart of the shopping district, the historic Carnaval route and the perfect area for a favorite Punta del Este pastime: people-watching.
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On the sixth floor of one of its buildings, theres a 968-square-foot apartment, with nice ocean views from the balcony, two bedrooms, and two bathrooms in the best location off the water in Punta del Este. Price: $183,700. Contact Buen Ayre Inmobiliaria for details; e-mail: info@buenayre.com.uy; website: www.buenayre.com.uy. Another peninsula apartment is a 1970-vintage penthouse. It has just under 1,400 square feet of living space, with four bedrooms, three bathrooms, and views of the ocean and the peninsula from its third floor location. It comes with garage parking. Price: $220,000. For more information, contact Iavecchia Propiedades; website: http://iavecchia.com. Punta del Estes famous port and yacht club are the focus of the most sought after neighborhood of the peninsula. All year round, visitors and residents alike stroll the boardwalks and linger at the many waterfront restaurants, peoplewatching and admiring the view of the nearby island Isla Gorriti. Theres an apartment in a convenient location, just one block from Puntas famous yacht club and my favorite restaurant district in town. It has nice peninsula views from the roomy terrace and 860 square feet of living area, with three bedrooms and one bathroom. It is being sold furnished and comes with garage parking. Price: $210,000. Contact Voila Inmobiliaria at; e-mail: voila@imobiliaria.com.uy; website: www.voila.inmobiliaria.com.uy. Heading up the east side of the Peninsula, youll come to Playa Brava and all of its ocean-like characteristics, such as dunes, bigger waves, wider beaches, and finer sand. Here theres an excellent value apartment on the second floor overlooking the beach at parada 6. It has 839 square feet of space, including two bedrooms and a single bathroom, with covered parking and furniture included. Price: $187,000. As a rental, it brings in as much as $16,000 in the high season alone. Contact Voila Inmobiliaria for details; website: www.voila.inmobiliaria.com.uy. At around 200 yards back, but still with a good ocean view, theres an apartment with two bedrooms and one-and-a-half bathrooms in 1,043 square feet. Completed in 2011, the building amenities include swimming pool and gym. Price: $197,400. For further details, contact Abasolo Inmobiliaria: e-mail: info@abasolo.com.uy; website: www.abasolo.com.uy. Next, continuing up the Brava side rambla, is the charming San Rafael neighborhood. The streets are quite shady and tranquil here, and homes are overwhelmingly quaint and well-tended. I selected two among the good number of properties for sale under $200,000. Uruguay: The Owners Manual
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Near the heart of San Rafael, theres a 1970-vintage, nicely maintained, 1,400-square-foot house with three bedrooms, three bathrooms, and a maids quarters. It is being offered furnished. Price: $130,000. For more information, contact Alberto Prandi; e-mail: info@albertoprandi.com; website: www.albertoprandi.com. In a quiet, wooded area in San Rafael, theres a neat 560 square foot apartment with two bedrooms and two bathrooms. This second-floor apartment is an easy walk down the street to the Brava beaches. Theres also air conditioning and the building is equipped with Wi-Fi. Price: $160,000. Its being offered by Gerones Inmobiliaria; e-mail: gerones@inmobiliaria.com.uy; website: www.geronesinmobiliaria.com.uy. Rincon del Indio
Moving along the rambla a little further north to Rincon del Indio, is an apartment with two bedrooms and two bathrooms, nicely located less than 100 yards from the ocean. It has 860 square feet of living area and garage space for one car. Price: $295,000. Contact Puntamar Inmobiliaria for further information; e-mail: info@puntamar.com; website: www.puntamar.com. Less than 200 yards in from the ocean, theres a three-bedroom, threebathroom house in like-new condition. Theres also a barbecue and Jacuzzi in the yard and a double carport. Price: $200,000. Contact Inmobiliaria Rincon del Indio for more details; e-mail: info@rincondelindio.com.
Also in Rincon del Indio theres a sturdy brick house for sale, overlooking beautifully landscaped grounds. Built in 1990, the house has 1,614 square feet of living space, including three bedrooms, two bathrooms, and an extra spacious living area. Price: $280,000. Alberto Prandi lists this property; e-mail: www.pathfinderinternational.net/ContactUs/prandi/. A nice, two-story brick house is on offer in the Las Palmas area of La Barra. Built in 1995, it has a comfortable 1,076 square feet living space, with three bedrooms and two bathrooms, while in the back yard, theres a guest house with another bedroom and bathroom. Price: $140,000. For further information, contact Alberto Prandi; e-mail: www.pathfinderinternational.net/ ContactUs/prandi/.
An inviting property in La Barra, less than 200 yards from the ocean and conveniently located on route 10, which is the coastal road there. It has just under 1,400 square feet of living space on a single floor, with three bedrooms, three bathrooms, and good quality finishing details throughout. Price: $150,000. Contact Abasolo Inmobiliaria for details: e-mail: info@abasolo.com.uy; website: www.abasolo.com.uy.
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Come to Maldonado for a taste of real life near Punta del Este
Technically speaking, Punta del Este is part of the city of Maldonado, and the town centers are only about 10 minutes apart. Maldonadowith its 39,000 residentsis what Id call a real town, as opposed to a resort town. Lots of people are bustling about the streets, going about their business among the endless assortment of shops, supermarkets, and stores of every type. Theres a nice downtown square and the brick buildings reminded me of 1950s Americana to the point where I expected to see a Woolworths peeking from beneath one of the awnings. If youd like to be just minutes from the world-class beaches of Punta del Este, but dont want to live in the resort, Maldonado may be the place for you. Montoya and Manantiales are two upscale suburbs that lie just north of La Barra. These areas host a number of exclusive, planned communities filled with luxury homes, popular with well-off second homeowners from Montevideo and abroad. I found a house here renting for $25,000 per month in the high season. Its still possible, however, to find some pretty nice homes for reasonable prices. Here are a few that are priced well below the area average. Theres a three-bedroom apartment for sale, furnished, just 50 yards from Playa Montoya. Its an 850-square-foot property with two bathrooms and covered parking; not to mention the wonderful ocean and beach views that it enjoys from the terrace. Price: $135,000. More details are available from Puntamar Inmobiliaria; e-mail: info@puntamar.com; website: www.puntamar.com. In Montoya theres a contemporary-style house with 1,076 square feet of floor space, including three bedrooms, two bathrooms, an alarm system, and a carport. This property is in a quiet, wooded location three blocks from Montoya beach. Price: $200,000. Contact Puntamar Inmobiliaria for further information; e-mail: info@puntamar.com; website: www.puntamar.com. Enjoy the lovely sight of the ocean as seen through the trees from the terrace of a home in Manantiales. This tempting two-story, has 1,398 square feet of living space, including three bedrooms, two bathrooms, granite counters, air conditioning, and an alarm system. Price: $225,000. For more information, contact Sudamerica Propiedades; e-mail: info@sudamerica.com.uy; website: www.sudamerica.com.uy.
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Just for an idea of how much land is going for in this area, I found several parcels for sale in prestigious Montoya/Manantiales. For example, a half-acre lot is listed for $220,000 and a small building lot (one-eighth of an acre) a block from the beach is $180,000. As you continue eastward towards Jos Ignacio, there are some oceanfront neighborhoods where your dollar buys quite a bit. Buenos Aires, Punta Piedras, and El Chorro are newer areas that havent yet filled in. The early-in houses there run a bit smaller but enjoy lots of tranquility, many with unobstructed ocean views. Right now there are 10 houses for sale listed for $200,000 or less. In the neighborhood of Buenos Aires, theres a 1,300-square-foot bargain. Built in 1999, it has two stories, two bedrooms, and two bathrooms. It comes furnished. Price: $110,000. Contact Voila Inmobiliaria for further details; e-mail: voila@inmobiliaria.com.uy; website: www.voila.inmobiliaria.com.uy. An attractive, contemporary two-story home in Buenos Aires has 1,560 square feet of living space with three bedrooms and three bathrooms. This property is less than 100 yards from the ocean and comes nicely furnished. Price: $160,000. Contact Voila Inmobiliaria for information; website: www.voila.inmobiliaria.com.uy.
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No place suits everyone, but Punta del Este has a pretty broad appeal. If you dont like the crowds, all you have to do is live a short distance from downtown and you can avoid them. Parts of the zone fall within Maldonado, and accordingly have lower tax rates. If you want to rent your house in the summer, youll get some decent rental returns. If not, youll enjoy using your very own Punta del Este home while the rest of the world comes to visit. I had originally planned on renting out my own house in Punta del Este. But after spending a summer here, I wouldnt think of it. If the worlds wealthy are willing to come here and pay those extraordinary rents to enjoy Punta del Este, then I plan to stay right here and enjoy the place with them.
Jos Ignacio
This is a small, exclusive fishing village about 20 minutes north of Punta del Este, just shy of the department of Rocha. And by exclusive, I mean more exclusive than Punta del Este, at least as a residential venue. Jos Ignacio has more than its share of nice restaurants, a picturesque lighthouse, and a boatyard. The shoreline varies from rock to sandy, and the beaches are wide and fairly uncrowded. The water here is usually a deep blue, without influence from the brown runoff that can come from Ro de la Plata. As to how it got to be exclusive, I dont know. For some reason, rock star Shakira decided to live hereas did several other stars and famous peopleand my guess is that thats what made it prominent. Although its nice, on the surface it doesnt appear to be worth a premium to live or vacation here. But you will pay a premium. A friend of mine paid $400 for lunch one day at an upscale restaurantfor two people.
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The shoreline around the exclusive area of Jos Ignacio is a mix of rocky and sandy with wide beaches
Just south of Jos Ignacioon the road to Punta del Estetheres a tranquil wooded area with a gated community called La Boyita, where theres an attractive contemporary house. It has 1,291 square feet of living area on a single floor, with one suite, endless floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking nearly 1,400 square feet of covered terraces, and a small lake. The house also includes a wine cellar and a well. Price: $210,000. Get more information from Alejandro Perazzo; e-mail: info@alejandroperazzo.com; website: www.alejandroperazzo.com. A small, but attractive house for sale in La Juanita, with three bedrooms and two bathrooms nicely arranged in the 650 square feet of floor space. Theres a covered patio with a barbecue out back and nice ocean views from the terrace. Price: $250,000. This is also listed with Alejandro Perazzo; website: www.alejandroperazzo.com.
Near Flamingo Lake, near Santa Monica theres a bright yellow, two-story, with loads of windows to brighten up the 1,291 square feet of living area. There are two big bedrooms sharing a spacious single bathroom. Terraces were built off of the living areas on both floors to take advantage of the nice lake views. Price: $140,000. Contact Inmobiliaria Club del Mar for more information; e-mail: info@clubdelmar.com.uy; website: www.clubdelmar.com.uy. Chapter Four: Finding Your Region and Your Home 79
Right on the outskirts of Jos Ignacio is a new development called Arenas de Jos Ignacio (Sands of Jos Ignacio). The homes are new and contemporary in design, many with ocean views, within a couple of minutes walk to the ocean. Prices for home resales here range from $130,000 for a single-suite home to $620,000 for a larger three-bedroom house with pool.
In Arenas de Jos Ignacio theres a cool white contemporary house, nestled in the dunes and pines, with three bedrooms and a pool in back. It is close to a good beach and equipped for year-round living. It sits on a naturally beautiful lot and enjoys ocean views from the second-floor living and kitchen area. Price: $330,000. Contact Alejandro Perazzo Inmobiliaria for details: e-mail: info@alejandroperazzo.com; website: www.alejandroperazzo.com.
If you can afford the prestige of owning in the village of Jos Ignacio, and living a five-minute walk from the best beaches, theres a small two-bedroom, one-bathroom house, with an attached garage for sale. Price: $690,000. This is also listed with Alejandro Perazzo; website: www.alejandroperazzo.com. There are several developments going on near here, some of them very expensive. One is Pinar del Faro, which is selling quarter-acre, ocean-view lots between $180,000 and $200,000, depending on their location. For more information, contact them at: e-mail: info@pinardelfaro.com; website: www.pinardelfaro.com.
Nearby, with frontage on Laguna de los Flamencos Rosados (Lake of the Pink Flamingos) and ocean views in the opposite direction as well, there are parcels of land for sale of 12,697 square feet (.29 acres). Price: $130,000. Its listed with Uruguay Properties; e-mail: info@uruguay-properties.com. Laguna Garzn is an estuary that comes to the ocean just north of Jos Ignacio. To cross, youll need to take the free car ferry. Its capable of taking two cars at a time if theyre small. This area has the nicest beachfront land youll find in the Lees car on the car ferry across Laguna Garzn country. As you can see, the farther away you get from Jos Ignacio, the cheaper the pure beachfront gets.
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La Paloma
Traveling up the coast, I consider La Paloma to be the last seaside town equipped to support a tourist trade of any size. Lying 52 miles from Punta del Este on Baha Grande, this beachfront town of about 5,000 was a small, charming outpost when I first went there, but recently it has come into its own. The first low-rise condos have arrived, and the tourist infrastructure is growing. The beaches here are as nice as those in Punta del Este. In fact, the beaches outside of town are wider, less developed, and less crowded. Its not yet a big tourist destination, but the town has always had quite a number of vacation homes. La Paloma itself is a small town, with a few hotels, markets, and a number of shops selling everything from cell phones to souvenirs. There are several nice restaurants providing diverse menu offerings. La Paloma is also the last outpost in which youll find an organized real estate business as you head up the coast, with a dozen or more real estate agents plying their trade downtown. This is a typical seashore vacation market, with plenty of houses for sale in various price ranges. The prices here are noticeably less than those youll find in Punta del Este, which makes sense when you compare the level of sophistication Punta del Este has with respect to La Paloma.
La Paloma is a bustling place in the summer, but it tends to be a lot quieter in the wintertime.
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This would be a lonely place to spend the winter, as it closes up pretty tight. I found enough stores and restaurants open to stay there a while, but if you never left town, it would seem like a long winter. It would be a great town for a vacation home or part-year residence. But for many, La Paloma will be just what theyre looking for. The beaches are great, and theres enough to keep most of us busy in the summer. You wont have the huge summertime crowds, but its lively, warm, and cheery in the high season. The prices of single homes in the area have been on the rise, but are still quite reasonable.
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In the Playa Serena area, in which a new golf course is being built, theres a contemporary brick home located in a quiet treed area four blocks back from the beach. It has 1,291 square feet of living area, including three bedrooms and two bathrooms. The barbecue area in back looks out onto the park-like woods surrounding it. Price: $150,000. In the center of La Paloma on the main avenue, little more than a block from the beach theres an attractive three-bedroom house on offer. Its a 2,100-square-foot house with two bathrooms, and nicely landscaped and spacious grounds, with a guest or caretaker house in the back. Price: $150,000. A very nice property on offer right now in La Paloma is also in the Balconada neighborhood. Its a sprawling two-story with four bedrooms, three bathrooms and over 2,900 square feet of living area. It has cathedral ceilings, a terrace with ocean views, and lots of hardwood trim finishing. Price: $330,000. Another good source of inventory here is Alberto Prandi, a fluent English speaker, who is also a fascinating source of interesting information about the La Paloma and La Pedrera areas. He has a number of properties worth investigating, both land and houses. Here is a small sample. Contact him at; e-mail: www.pathfinderinternational.net/ContactUs/prandi/; website: www.albertoprandi.com. Between La Paloma and La Pedrera, is a house for sale with three bedrooms, two bathrooms and 1,420 square feet of living space on two floors. This property is less than 100 yards from the ocean. Price: $140,000. Sitting directly on the sand in the La Balconada neighborhood, is a contemporary style house for sale. It has two stories, 1,291 square feet with three bedrooms, two bathrooms and a one-car garage. Price: $300,000.
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La Pedrera
La Pedrera lies just a few miles up the coast from La Paloma. Its also is a charming town, and even though its smaller than La Paloma, it has its share of nice restaurants and an attractive beach. Unlike La Paloma, La Pedrera also has some high, rocky cliffs that provide amazing ocean views. Whats more, La Pedrera itself sits on a hill, so even houses that are set back from the water have a good view. La Pedrera had more of a Spanish colonial feel to it than is normal in Uruguay, which makes a nice change. Id call it a smaller, upscale version of La Paloma, with higher prices. But you can find bargains here, if you look.
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Another property available in Tajamares is an attractive contemporary house, sitting on an acre of land which includes a picturesque pond. The three-bedroom, two-bathroom house has 1,721 square feet of space on one floor. This property also has a swimming pool. Price $220,000. Contact Alberto Prandi for more information; e-mail: www.pathfinderinternational.net/ ContactUs/prandi. Tajamares was the first Rocha development by noted Argentine developer Daniel Oks. When I first saw it, it was a first-of-a-kind venture in a new area. Today, its the subject of a glossy coffee table book featuring the best homes designed by Argentinas top architects. Daniel Oks latest offering is La Serena Golf, just a few minutes from La Paloma. The project slopes gently down to the beautiful white-sand La Serena beach and the ocean beyond. Its about 500 yards from Laguna de Rocha, a lake and wetlands preserve thats home to otters, foxes, and all kinds of birds. The beaches here are typical to Rocha; beautiful and free of crowds. The landscape around La Serena Golf is pastoral, a patchwork of grassy meadows, small farms, and pine forests. Spread over 225 acres, La Serenas 179 lots vary from a half-acre to three-quarters of an acre in size. Many of the lots have ocean views. More than 50% of the land in the development will stay as green space. Seven lakes dot the project, giving the property a relaxed country feel. Amenities will include a nine-hole golf course, a putting green and tennis courts. But despite the amenities, lots in La Serena start from $31,900. That gets you 2,120 square meters (a half-acre). If you want sea views, youll pay a little more: $69,300 buys you a three-quarter acre lot with panoramic ocean views. You dont have a build requirement, so you can sit on your lot as long as you like, and only start to construct a home when youre ready. Go here to find out more: www.pathfinderinternational.net/laserena. The reason I find La Paloma and La Pedrera (and their surrounding area) particularly attractive is that this area is among the last places on the coast where you can find international resort properties at reasonable prices. Also, theres a potential expanding market with Brazilians, who pass by this area on the way to Punta del Este. I think the area will grow in popularity as prices continue to climb in Punta del Este.
Barra de Valizas
With its small seaside cottages and dunes that roll out to the waters edge, this little waterfront villagelocated about 2.5 miles from the coastal highway offers a nice, uncrowded beach and one of the best on the sand beachfront
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restaurants/bars youll find on the coast. Barra de Valizas has the feel of a surfer village, with its small, simple homes and young crowd. There are several pleasant seaside villages in this area, which are well outside the development growth thats working its way up from Punta del Este. If youre looking for a beach town with virtually no glitz and little tourist infrastructure, this is a good area to check out.
Barra de Valizas is a small beach town with a surf vibe and a young crowd
The nearby zone called Punta del Diablo is one of the most popular destinations in this area.
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A house on a quarter-acre, ocean view lot with four bedrooms and two bathrooms in 1,721 square feet of living area. The property includes a garage and carport, and is in move-in condition. Price: $250,000. Contact Voil Inmobiliaria for more information; e-mail: voila@inmobiliaria.com.uy; website: www.voila.inmobiliaria.com.uy. A new, glass and stone contemporary house for sale in Punta del Diablo. Its located 100 yards from the beach and enjoys beautiful sea views from the large terrace. The 1,829 square feet of living area includes three bedrooms and three bathrooms on two floors. Price: $380,000. Contact Uruguay Properties.com for further details; e-mail: info@uruguayproperties.com.uy; website: www.uruguayproperties.com.uy.
Aguas Dulces
This is a small beach town not unlike Barra de Valizas, although it is bigger and nicer. I noted a few restaurants, markets, and a fish market selling fresh seafood. But the main reason I mention Aguas Dulces is for those of you who bought this book to find out where the nude beaches were! This is the site of the second official nude beach I found. I didnt go on it, but there were a lot of cars in the lot for a town this size, and the parking lot attendant felt he had the best job on the north coast.
Barra de Chuy
This is the end of the line here on the coast: the border with Brazil. The town of Barra de Chuy is the part on the Uruguayan side, while Barra do Chu is on the Brazilian side of the river that divides them. I didnt really care for the Uruguayan side, but the Brazilian side was quite nice, with solid homes, clean streets, and wide beaches.
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In the lexicon of Uruguay, the Interior is everything outside of Montevideo. But for the purpose of discussing lifestyle and property choices, I prefer to exclude the Atlantic coastal areas as well, since the actual interioror inland part of the countryhas a culture and real estate market thats completely distinct. Here youll find lots of wide, open spaces used for livestock, agriculture, and timber farming, and the cities have the simple, wholesome feel of farming communities in the American Midwest.
Without the moderating effect of the ocean, expect warmer summer temperatures reaching into the 90s (over 35 C). Winters are mild and without freezing weather or snow. While youll see tourist traffic and foreign travelers in certain parts of the Interior, there are few expats or foreign property buyers fueling the real estate market. So you cant count on Punta del Este-style rental returns or liquidity. In the Interior, youll buy and sell on the local market, which is perfect if youre looking for a good lifestyle buy.
Chuy
The town of Chuy is about 10 miles inland from Barra de Chuy, which is on the coast. Its a wild frontier town with the international border running right down the middle of the main street. On weekends, this is a popular destination for Uruguayans and Brazilians alike, who come to enjoy the many parrilladas and duty-free stores that line its busy main drag. With the crowds of people, cars racing up and down the dusty street, stands of pirate CDs, and bootleg cigarettes, this is one of the most bustling places of its size youll see in Uruguay. Would an expat want to settle in Chuy? I cant imagine why. But it sure makes for an interesting stop while youre touring the country.
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Treinta y Tres
The gaucho town of Treinta y Tres can feel like the end of the world. I often joke that if I were hiding from a huge lawsuit or a whopping divorce settlement, this is where Id come. I recently returned to Treinta y Tres via a 90-minute drive from the coast on a brilliant, sunny day. After all of my Uruguayan travel over the last two years, I still find the lush, shady town square here to be the nicest in Uruguay. Its quiet sycamore-lined streets are clean and orderly. This town of 30,000 residents is self-sufficient, with all of the shops, markets, and facilities youd need to set up residence. There seem to be more butcher shops (carniceras) per capita here than anywhere Ive seen; at least one on every block. There is not a lively exchange of real estate here, just the normal buying and selling youd expect in a place thats not a tourist spot or big city. But the lack of tourist traffic makes for very reasonable prices. A small apartment for sale by owner downtown, with two bedrooms sharing a single bathroom. The apartment has 570 square feet of living area, with some nice finishings, like granite kitchen counters and a wood paneled wall in the living area. Price: $45,000. Contact the owner at; tel. +598 (99) 516-769. Inmobiliaria Mundo has some interesting listings in Treinta y Tres. Contact them at; e-mail: info@inmobiliariamundo.com.uy; website: www.inmobiliariamundo.com.uy.
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With its quiet, sycamore-lined streets and 30,000 residents, Trienta y Tres is the place to come if you want to get away from it all
At Manuel Duran in Barrio Sosa, theres a small two-bedroom house for sale with a large kitchen, a dining area with a fireplace, a garage for two cars and a small fenced yard. Price: $45,000. In front of Plaza de Vergara, theres a nice colonial style house or casa antigua for sale. Its a corner house, which allows for twice the amount of windows on a house of this style. The property covers 1,200 square feet with the living/dining area, kitchen and bathroom on the first floor. Upstairs, there are bedrooms, a large terrace, and a storage area. Price $75,000. If you like the old Spanish colonial style, heres a wonderful opportunity to buy and restore a nice one in the historic district. Its a two-story, with a large front garden, eight bedrooms, and more than 2,636 square feet of floor space. Price $180,000. Elsewhere in town, expect to pay at least $45,000 for a fixer-upper, and around $85,000 for a livable home of around 1,000 square feet.
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The famous 33
Treinta y Tres (which means 33 in Spanish) was named in honor of 33 heroes who, under the leadership of Juan Antonio Lavalleja, began the insurrection that ultimately led to independence from Brazil. They left Argentina in two boats from the town of San Isidro, just upriver from Buenos Aires. They managed to avoid the Brazilian fleet guarding the coast, and on April 19, 1825, landed on the Uruguayan side at a beach known as Playa de la Agraciada (also known as Arenal Grande) in the Department of Soriano, where they planted the Uruguayan flag. Youll see many references to the number 33 throughout Uruguay, with numerous monuments, parks, and streets bearing the number. The names of the 33 orientales are inscribed on a monument erected in their honor in the Treinta y Tres town square.
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The gentle hills around Villa Serrana make it perfect for a leisurely day of horse riding
A smaller property is for sale in the beautiful Bao de India neighborhood of Villa Serrana. The land in this area gets the most dollars per square feet of any in the region. The house has four bedrooms and a wonderful lake view on a 6,219-square-foot lot. Price: $60,000. Also, there are a number of lots for sale with valley, lake, and canyon views. They are of varying sizes, and the prices range from roughly $13 per square meter ($52,000 per acre) to $20 per square meter ($80,000 per acre) in the most panoramic area. Prices depend on available services and natural beauty of each area. A rustic cabin is for sale in Villa Serrana. The valley and mountain views from the upper deck of this two story cabin are stunning. Price: $60,000. For more details, you can contact the owner, Leonardo, at; tel. +598 (96) 421-101. Villa Serrana would be a good choice for expats who want country living not far from a small city, with peaceful panoramic vistas and reasonable prices.
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Flickr.com/Vince Alongi
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Although the town was quite livable, Tacuaremb will be most attractive to those people who dream of owning a large tract of ranchland in the pampas. Its also the perfect place for a small ranch for horses and stables. In the heart of El Centro, just one block off the main avenue of town, is a nice house for sale. Its spacious, with 3,400 square feet of living area, including five bedrooms, three bathrooms, an office, a large patio, and an American-style kitchen (plenty of cabinets). It also has air conditioning and is in very good condition. Price: $125,000. For more information, contact the owner at; tel. +598 (99) 742-984. Another nice one on the market is a two-story house, also in El Centro, with two terraces (one a rooftop terrace), patio, and a garage under the house. Three large bedrooms, two bathrooms, a large American kitchen with wood stove, and a large living area make up the 1,615 square feet of floor space. Price $130,000. For details, contact the owner; tel. +598 4632-7886. Theres a great farm for sale outside of Tacuaremb. The property includes 12 fenced acres (5 hectares) of rolling farmland, with a variety of fruit and flowering trees and a small pond. There are school and public transportation bus-stops in front of the property. The house was remodeled in 2004, so its ready to move in, with an updated kitchen and bathrooms. Price: $180,000. For more information, contact Saul Inmobiliaria; e-mail: saul@inmobiliaria.com.uy. When buying land around Tacuaremb, be sure to check the CONEAT rating along with prices, based on what youre looking for (see page 120 for an explanation of CONEAT agricultural land ratings in Uruguay). A decent house in town will start at about $70,000, with higher-end homes of over 2,000 square feet selling for between $90,000 and $150,000.
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The city is located on the banks of the Ro Negro, a wide, calm river that looks pristine when compared to the often-murky Uruguay River, a half-hour away. The international bridge to Argentina at Fray Bentos is 30 minutes to the west. Mercedes has a number of sandy beaches on the river, a small sheltered marina, and a large wooded island parkIsla del Puertoconnected to the mainland by a one-lane bridge. The parks woods and small beaches provide a social space for the residents of Mercedes. On most days youll find families grilling, enjoying the water, or relaxing.
Mercedes has a number of small beaches along the quiet Rio Negro
A wide rambla runs along the waterfront and hosts an endless procession of antique cars, motorbikes, and people strolling along the river. In the center of town, Plaza Independencia is green and leafy, with its beautiful illuminated fountains watched over by the old cathedral. Dont look for all-night tango clubs, fine dining, shows, or hot nightlife, although there are a couple of good restaurants in town. Expats who settle here come to avoid the stresses of the everyday worldnot for the nightlife. The safety of the town is demonstrated by the number of bikes left unattended and unsecured on the sidewalks, the motorbikes with the keys in the ignitions, and the large plate-glass windows on the storefronts left unprotected overnight.
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Over the last few years Ive seen obvious signs of revitalization in Mercedes. Theres a new, modern hotel on the main square, many buildings are freshly painted, and a number of streets have been converted to pedestrian walkways (peatonales), lined with nice shops and busy with people strolling and windowshopping. Theres no airport in Mercedes, but they do have a Buquebus office (the company that runs ferries to Argentina) and an American Airlines office. Also, theres a bus terminal with service to other parts of Uruguay.
http://internationalliving.com/2011/04/riverside-video-tour-of-mercedes-uruguay/
The homes in Mercedes vary in style and type, with some even having that European flavor common to downtown Montevideo. Most are suitable for yearround living. When shopping for real estate in in Mercedes, be aware that the Rio Negro has been prone to flooding. They had a hundred-year flood back in 2007, which reached a full block inland in placeseven more on one street. The floods of 1959 were not quite so high.
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An honest local real estate agent (Juan Francia of Inmobiliaria Piloni) showed me the high water marks, and warned me away from a few tempting properties nearer to the water.
Rentals in Mercedes
Houses are available for rent in Mercedes at a very reasonable price. I found a number of them in El Centro through Inmobiliaria Piloni, priced between $250 and $500 per month for a two-bedroom house. Contact them at; e-mail: pilonidesarrollosinmobiliarios@hotmail.com for more information.
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Dolores
Heading down the highway on the way from Mercedes to Carmelo, is the town of Dolores. This is a clean and well-kept village, built around the town square, and along its attractive riverfront on the San Salvador River. Lunch at a pleasant restaurant on the Plaza Constitucin (the main town square) was cheap as demonstrated by the fact that the most-expensive wine on the wine list was just $13, for an oak-barrel Tannat. Dolores represents Uruguays Interior pricing at its best. Dolores is obviously an agricultural community, as evidenced by the grain mills, cattle vets, and farm suppliers. But it also has a traditional Uruguayan rowing club (like an athletic club) and a fishing club down at the river for the residents. The waterfront park is large, picturesque, and well-maintained, with a smaller beach and fewer beachgoers than nearby Mercedes. There are plenty of picnic tables, and attractive sandy beaches along the pristine river. In the town center, youll find some nice shops, and some high-end, beautiful homes in a few areas. Is the Interior for you? Theres a lot to be said for the simple, hearty lifestyle of the Uruguayan Interior. But remember, youre often a long way from the international airport in Montevideo, and the local airports have littleif anyconnecting service. The
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best airport connection may involve hours of driving. The cultural scene is not what youll find in Montevideo, and the nightlife wont be that of Punta del Este. There are few expats and almost no English-speakers. But what you lose in glitz, youll make up for in many other ways. Theres very little crime in the Interior, and people are friendly, honest, and hard-working. Properties are inexpensive, and the cost of living is noticeably lower than Montevideo or the Atlantic coast. Perhaps most importantly, if you want to experience the real Uruguayan culturewhat makes it special and uniquethe Interior is where you are going to find it. A number of IL readers have moved to the Interior already, and all things considered, you may find its a good choice for you.
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Salto is Uruguays second largest city and has everything youll find in the capitalbut at lower prices
Saltos waterfront area provides a pleasant, green setting in which to spend an afternoon. From here you can watch the workings at the portwhich is not very busyand admire the giant, classic Customs house or visit the Uruguay River Museum. If you go north of town, past the bridge to Argentina, youll come to Parque del Lago, a popular spot for people who want to get out of the city on weekends for picnics and barbecues. The river here is very wide, due to Saltos giant hydroelectric dama dam that was completed in 1979, and is the largest in Uruguay. South of town, youll come to Daymn, an area that draws thousands of tourists seeking to bathe in its renowned hot springs. The cost of living is low in Salto; you can usually enjoy a good dinner out for about 30% less than youd spend in Montevideo, and half of what it would cost you in Punta del Este. In fact, the overall cost for most things seemed noticeably lower here, including property taxes. Saltos property market The nicest residential district is on the south side of town, along the river. The properties are big, with tall trees and large homes that often boast river views.
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But Saltos downtown is a good choice if youre looking for an old home to restoreespecially if you dont want to own a car. The most enticing aspect of the property market is the purchase of colonialstyle homes to restore and sell, or live in yourself. In Salto, the homes are not actually colonial, but rather from the 19th century through the Art Deco period. You could certainly lead the good life here in a classic home without spending a fortune. Another aspect of the market in Salto also creates a good opportunity. The local universitywhich draws students from Uruguay, Argentina, and Brazilhas no dorm. So theres a big demand for student housing. There was an antique home of 17 bedrooms and two courtyards on the market that would be a perfect project for this. The entire house needed restoration to make it useable, and a couple of the bedrooms could be converted into additional bathroomsbut the asking price was only $85,000.
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Theres also a newer house in Cerro neighborhood of Salto for sale right now. The property includes three bedrooms and three bathrooms, an office and living room with an oversized fireplace. Theres also a large garage, patio and covered barbecue outside. Price $180,000. The most sought-after neighborhood by Salteos today is the Costanera Sur, or the area along the river south of the city. Theres an attractive, brick house, with three bedrooms, a spacious living room with fireplace, laundry room, and an office for sale. Outside theres a nicely landscaped yard with pool, garage and covered barbecue. Price: $240,000. If your dream is to own a colonial-style home and buy it for a reasonable price, then the riverfront city of Salto is definitely worth a look.
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Theres a nice 1,100-square-foot apartment for sale on 18 de Julio, with three bedrooms, two bathrooms, and oak parquet floors. There are two patios included with this apartment, one of which has a built in barbecue fireplace. Price: $70,000. On the outskirts of town, theres a great country property with 1.3 acres of nicely landscaped yard and a 1,291-square-foot house with carport. The four-bedroom house is in very good condition, with ceramic floors and wooden framed windows. Price $115,000. If youd like to get your hands on a colonial, theres a casa de poca (period home) for sale, with 4,842 square feet of interior yard or patio. The house itself has 1,635 square feet, including three bedrooms, a spacious living room with fireplace, and original colonial tile floors in good condition. Price: $150,000. If youd prefer something newer, theres a four-bedroom house with 1,650 square feet of living space. It was built in 2000, with nice hardwood windows and woodwork, floors are ceramic tile, and the half-acre yard is nicely landscaped. Price: $175,000. In my opinion, Paysand really shines when it comes to buying land. Large land parcels will start at about $1,000 per acre, and go up from there. There are several smaller, 12 acre (5 hectare) farms listed with Inmobililiaria Paysand right now for $60,000, or $5,000 per acre. If youd like to try on a place by renting first, you can do so in Paysand for a very good price. Two-bedroom houses in the center of town start as low as $400 per month and three-bedroom units start at $600. Inmobiliaria Paysand has a good inventory of rentals and can help you with rentals or shopping for a home.
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Last time I was in Fray Bentos I found it to be a pleasant little town. This time, I found it to be a pleasant and very prosperous little town, thanks to the new, giant pulp mill constructed here by Finnish company Metsa-Botnia. The official name of the plant is Orion, but everyone in Uruguay knows it simply as Botnia, the name that appears in giant letters on the front of the plant, which lies a few miles out of town. You can really see the difference around town. The Gran Hotel Fray Bentos, for example, which was closed for over 10 years, is now refurbished, modernized, and filled to capacity on most days. There are housing developments springing up, and houses being fixed up all over town. There is a lot of English spoken in Fray Bentos these days, as virtually all of the Finns seem to speak it. I even found an English-Spanish bilingual high school.
Street names
Somewhere in Uruguays past, a founding father, now lost to history, must have decreed that there be a standard collection of authorized street names to be used in every cityor at least it seems that way. No matter where you are in the country, youll find the same names over and over. Names like 18 de Julio, Sarand, Juncal, Michelini, Florida and 25 de Mayo, just to name a few. As you travel about Uruguay and the cities begin to run together, this will add to your confusion.
And its easy to see the Finnish cultural influence. For example, between Fray Bentos and Las Caas, youll pass a development of big, modern homes on large lots. The houses looked like Cubist art pieces, and the whole place looks like it came from another countrywhich I suppose it did, in a way.
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It is possible to rent in Fray Bentos. Houses with two, three, and four bedrooms for $500 and less are listed with Buzo & Cia. There are also some chacras or ranches for rent for a bit higher.
A large Art-Deco style house on a corner in town. Its a three-story, with three bedrooms, four bathrooms, a huge living room, family room, office, maids quarters, a garage, and landscaped gardens in back surrounding a swimming pool. Price: $225,000.
If youre in Fray Bentos, be sure to stop at a parrilla called El Muelle. It sits right on the river, with a terrific view. Entrees, wine, and desserts for two people came to $29.
As the years passed, however, the old meandering roads in many cases were replaced by straight, modern highways connecting one city to another. Where this happened, you sometimes see the old double row of trees wander off course and then return as it follows the roads former path.
At the entrance to Carmelo, however, todays highway still follows the old route as you pass through mile after mile of sycamores when approaching this old city, left over from Uruguays early glory days. Carmelo was once a destination for Montevideos wealthy, who arrived by steamer to this port city of 22,000. The city lies on the Uruguay River at a point where it joins Arroyo de las Vacas, a stream that widens into a sheltered harbor at Carmelo. The town itself is on the north side of the arroyo with a narrow iron bridge connecting it to the south side.
On the south side, youll find the marina, yacht club, Club de Remeros (a rowing/athletic club), a casino/hotel, and the still-active port. There is also a nice residential area, with spacious, well-kept homes with big yards and a large, riverside park. Youll also find a number of restaurants and parrilladas on the south side, as well as a campground.
The casino hotel here is a class act, and is a good option for staying in Carmelo. During my last visit, its old-fashioned lobby was bustling with people talking, reading the paper, and having coffee. It looked like a 1920s movie set. The pool was surrounded by sunbathers and swimmers, and the beautiful dining room was just setting up for lunch. Even if you dont stay here, its worth a visit for the restaurant. Chapter Four: Finding Your Region and Your Home 105
Finally, the road on the south side terminates at the ever-popular Playa Ser, where youll see a good crowd camping, barbecuing and swimming on warm weekends. Crossing back over the iron bridge into town, I found the city to be pleasant, although fairly unremarkable. Some of the architecture is of the colonial style, while some is mid-20th century. I dont believe I saw any neighborhood that was entirely restoredor any that was entirely bad. Most had a few nice buildings, with the rest being pretty worn around the edges. Carmelo has everything youd need with respect to shopping, dining, and keeping the household going, with a bustling shopping district. I also found a number of well-maintained parks and plazas.
Quiet Carmelo has a number of little parks and plazasperfect for watching the world go by
The original town plaza, howeverPlaza General Artigashas been somehow forgotten, and lies several blocks away from the main thoroughfare. The plaza itself is nice, with tall trees, grassy islands, and tile walkways. Im not sure Id call the neighborhood seedy, but its not the nicest section of the city either. But it was the part that held my interest, because of its potential.
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On my first visit, I felt that something was going on in the area around this old square. A couple of old buildings around Plaza Artigas had been beautifully restored. And elsewhere in the area, I saw five other buildings with Sold signs on themsomething I saw nowhere else in town. A couple of them were already being restored as well. In 2011, I returned to see what had happened. Sure enough, the sold buildings from my previous visit had been beautifully restored. But unfortunately, the gentrification trend I had hoped for never materialized. Aside from those few buildings, the rest of the area is still in disrepair. But Carmelos incredible popularity has not faded in the slightest. At 11 p.m., the restaurants are full, and people are cruising in droves, on a circuit from downtown Carmelo out to the area around the yacht club and Playa Ser.
This is a great place to settle by the sea, in a neighborly atmosphere, at a good price. If you like the bustle of an active resort from times gone byor would like to embark on a tourist-related businessthen Carmelo could well be for you.
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Colonia is a perfect town for strolling, particularly in the small historic center. Ive spent many a leisurely afternoon at one of Colonias waterfront parrilladas, watching the boats go by on one side of the table and the people on the other, followed by passing the time exploring the shaded streets and quiet colonial neighborhoods. The antique cars that Uruguay has been noted for over the years have now become rare in Montevideo and Punta del Este, but youll still see a few on the streets of Colonia. The city also has a well-sheltered marina with plenty of mooring space. The rush to Colonia is underway Things are booming in Colonia, and its become a magnet for foreign investors and retirees. People from all parts of the world are strolling its streets in record numbers these past few years, with hotel occupancy rates running higher than 90%. Today, Im seeing lots of North Americans; my hotel was half-full of them. And the North Americans arent just visiting; there are quite a few whove settled here, along with other English-speaking expats from around the world.
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The Balnearia runs along the rambla beside Ro de la Plata, which looks like the ocean at Colonia. It has traditionally been a residential area, boasting quiet neighborhoods, elegant homes, and stunning water views, especially at sunset. If youre looking for a new single home with a large yardnear a nice beach the Balnearia is a good bet.
Colorful colonial buildings and cobblestone streets have made Colonia popular with expats in recent years
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Dreamstime.com/Breakers
I found a few great buys in Centrobut the days of the large, $50,000 house there are gone. Nonetheless, I believe Centro has the best real estate values overall. The real boom story however is on the Balnearia. Its todays hottest real estate zone, with high-end new projects sprouting like wildflowers. Despite the handful of upscale condo projects, it still retains its roomy suburban feel. But prices have jumped remarkably. Ill give you a personal example. In 2005, there was an empty lot on the rambla, for an asking price of $96,000. Although the agent said so, he was unable to convince me it was a good value, or that the area was about to boom. In 2009, this property resold for $125,000 in 2010, it went for $350,000and in February 2011, it was on the market for $500,000, and they were confident of getting that price, or more. (The insightful agent I originally saw it with was Joaquin Mato; e-mail: joaquin@inmomato.com.) All of the real estate agents in town sell in Centro, Balnearia, and Barrio Histrico, and for the most part, they show each others properties even though theres no multiple-list service. Last year, I wondered if prices in Colonia had topped outbut they hadnt. Based on my own personal observation, they appear to have jumped another 20% or more in 2011 alone.
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Centro
A two-year-old apartment for sale with a water view and 1,183 square feet of living space. There are two bedrooms, two bathrooms, granite counters and a convenient location near Centro, the historic district and the port. Price: $180,000. For more details, contact Toribio Achaval Propiedades: e-mail: RodolfoFernandez@toribioachaval.com; website: www.toribioachaval.com.uy. In El Centro is a casa antigua just half a block from the waterfront. Its spacious, with just under 2,200 square feet including four bedrooms with parquet floors, and 14-foot high ceilings. Although in great condition, this one just needs some TLC to make it into a classic gem. Price: $240,000. This one is also listed with Toribio Achaval Propiedades; website: www.toribioachaval.com.uy. A tempting house for sale here just a couple blocks from the water. Its been completely remodeled, so its ready for move-in. Its a two-story with wonderful river views from the second-floor terrace. Theres just over 1,500 square feet with three bedrooms, two bathrooms, a garage, and airconditioning. Price: $250,000. For more details, contact Toribio Achaval Propiedades: e-mail: RodolfoFernandez@toribioachaval.com; website: www.toribioachaval.com.uy.
Balnearia
In the Balnearia or beachside zone, theres an apartment in the Costa Colonia Suites building with nice water views. The unit has a nice balcony and 634 square feet of floor space, with a single bedroom and bathroom. Price: $150,000. Contact Toribio Achaval Propiedades for information; e-mail: RodolfoFernandez@toribioachaval.com; website: www.toribioachaval.com.uy. New apartments in the Altos del Virrey building on the waterfront are small, but well designed. In 441 square feet theres a living/dining room, one bedroom and one bathroom. It has a balcony with great river views and a full array of building amenities. Price $165,000. Contact Toribio Achaval Propiedades for further information; website: www.toribioachaval.com.uy.
In Real de San Carlos, theres an excellent river view property, with 2,657 square feet of contemporary-style house on three floors. It has three bedrooms and two bathrooms, with a 260-square-foot patio, a roof-top terrace and a great river view. Price: $370,000. This is also through Toribio Achaval Propiedades; website: www.toribioachaval.com.uy.
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In this area you can buy a quarter acre lot starting at $67,000 and going up to around $210,000.
Rentals in Colonia
Two-bedroom apartments go for around $1,000 per month in Colonia, if youre interested in renting long-term. Colonia has long been one of my favorite places. Its one that I think would be perfect for year-round living; a view shared by an ever-increasing number of people. In fact, a number of IL readers are already here.
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A well-hidden cost
Any renovation or remodeling done to a property in Uruguay must be registered with BPS (Banco de Provisin Social), which is Uruguays social security system. Theyll assess a charge for the work, which will go into the social security till. Even minor tasks like painting must be registered. If you plan to do the work yourself, you must still register the job in advance, but there will be no assessment. Ive used perhaps six contractors in Uruguay, and not a single one mentioned this requirement, even though its universally known (this keeps their quoted price down). If you dont register the work however, youll be pay it at the time of sale, and it can easily run into thousands of dollars in fines and payments.
This was the most difficult part for me when I came to Uruguay; deciding where to live. I loved the country right away. But after three trips, I was still debating which city I preferred. And I was a long way from deciding on a house. That came only after looking at hundreds of properties. And the problem wasnt that I couldnt find something I liked, it was that I found too many things I liked and couldnt decide between them. Thats a good dilemma to have when youre looking for a place to live!
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CHAPTER FIVE
Buying Property in Uruguay
Once youve picked out a home, youll need to complete the purchase and registration of your property. I found it to be fairly simple in Uruguay, and easy to understand. But before we get into that, lets take a look at a few helpful facts about the real estate industry in general.
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The first real estate agent I caught doing this raised a property by a whopping $30,000; the woman I caught most recently had raised it by 33%. I caught one agent four times within a five-day period, and one office quoted me three different prices on the same property within 30 minutes.
Frankly, this bothers me less than it used to. Its just how some real estate agents play the game, and some owners are worse with respect to price-changing. The reason I mention it is so you know that the listed price from the real estate agent is not sacred. Its likely that theres plenty of room to negotiate. Many people need cash. Bank financing is not that common, so if you can pay with cash you have significant bargaining power.
One of the downsides of making an offer in Uruguay is that you often must actually negotiate with the real estate agent first. In many cases, if the agent does not think your offer is high enough, they wont convey the offer to the seller, even if there is a chance that the seller would accept.
Ive seen this happen in two ways. Sometimes theyll tell you theyre not calling the seller because the offer is too lowwhich is fine. More likely, however, is that theyll tell you they called the seller and he said to offer more. (They never make this call in your presence.) One time I insisted that the real estate agent call while I waited, and he told me that the seller was traveling in the interior of Brazil and could not be reached. Yet within 10 minutes of leaving the office my cell phone rang, and the real estate agent advised me that the owner said to offer more. Ive found that in most cases where the real estate agent has failed to pass your offer to the seller, theres no counter-offer. In other words when they come back with offer more instead of a number, its probably because the owner was not contacted. Some real estate agents will convey all offers, and some will call the owner in your presence. This is a good practice, in my book. 116
Find an escribano:
Once your offer is accepted, the first thing you need to do is find an escribano. This is the person who represents your interests in the property transaction, and records the transaction itself. You should choose an escribano in the way you would choose an attorney, and make sure you trust and have confidence in them. A good escribano will also act as an escrow agent, and will disburse the money to everyone at closing. This will be a critical service if you dont have a bank account in Uruguay, since you cant pay the seller with a foreign checkand you sure dont want to wire him money in advance. If you dont speak Spanish, retain an escribano who speaks English so that you understand everything thats going on. If you are using a real estate agent, they will often recommend an escribano or give you a choice of several. Personally, I have no problem using a real estate agent-recommended escribano. I would, however, think twice before using the sellers own escribano. The escribano is a legally required part of the process in Uruguay, and their 3% fee is unavoidable. But I consider it money well-spent. They do a good job, and Ive always felt safe and secure in property transactions thanks to their professional oversight. If you have an escribano you want to work with, you can use him or her for any property transaction in Uruguay, not just where their office is. See Appendix A for a list of escribanos in various parts of Uruguay.
Whats an escribano?
Escribano is often translated as a notary in English, but an escribano in not like a notary in much of Latin America. A notario in other countries is usually an impartial government official, who represents no one in the sale. An escribano, on the other hand, represents one of the parties, and Ive seen cases where the buyer and the seller each have their own escribano represent them in a transaction. I think of an escribano as a real estate attorney, or perhaps a conveyance attorney. Neither is an escribano like a notary public in the U.S. An escribano is a legal professional with a university degree that requires between four and five years of study. They either have their own offices or work for a law firm. They are neither elected nor appointed, but they are registered with the Supreme Court, and fall under strict guidelines with respect to procedure or record retention. An escribano is not necessarily a lawyer. Occasionally, youll see an escribano (or escribana for women) who is also a lawyer, which requires that he or she hold both degrees.
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Your escribano will first contact the seller (not his agent) to confirm that the seller understands the terms of the sale. He then completes the Boleto de Reserva, which is a preliminary sales contract. This important document records the buyer and seller, sales price, desired closing date, commissions, and any specific terms of the sale, including penalties for default on the contract. It is not a publicly recorded document. The Boleto de Reserva is normally accompanied by a 10% deposit, which will remain with the escribano until closing. Some real estate agents will tell you that you may deposit that 10% with them, but dont do it. I recently saw an agent attempt to walk off with the buyers money. You should only deposit funds with your escribano, since his legal obligations are much stricter. Title verification and the Escritura de Compraventa: Over the next 30 to 45 days, the escribano will verify that the title is clear, and that there are no outstanding liens, claims or other issues, going back 30 years. The escribano will verify that all of the records in the property registry are in order, and will analyze the tax situation for closing. Uruguay has a well-organized registry system and no history of land expropriations, so its unlikely that hell find an insurmountable problem at this stage. During this time, the escribano will also have the seller hand over all pertinent documentation, such as the old titles, original blueprints, tax receipts, and building permits for any modifications, etc. He will then draw up the final transfer document, known as the Escritura de Compraventa, which is signed by both parties at closing. Final closing: This is where you and the seller both sign the Escritura de Compraventa, and all money changes hands. The escribano will withhold (or collect) all taxes owed on the property, and take care of paying them. As in the U.S., buyers and sellers may also need to pro-rate tax payments, condo fees, and other payments. Ive done this in two ways. On my first purchase, my escribano acted as escrow agent, and paid the seller, the taxes, and the real estate commission. On my next purchase, I paid the seller, escribano, and agent from my local account. The former way was much easier. Insider tip: If your escribano will not act as an escrow agent, find one who will.
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Your escribano will record your purchase in the property registry, known as El Registro de la Propiedad Inmueble. The registry function is at the department level in Uruguay, with a property registry in each of Uruguays 19 department capitals. Record retention: After closing, youll typically get a large collection of folders containing the propertys entire historyall the way back to the original blueprints. Many escribanos will retain these records for you if you desire, for safekeeping. If not, make sure you stop by to pick everything up after registration of the deed. The optional compromiso: The compromiso (promissory deed) is used if you cannot obtain the final deed to the property at closing. The most common reason for it is the case of seller financing, but it can be used for any legal element that prevents recording of the final deed. Your escribano can draw up the compromiso, which records the contractual terms that will govern until you make final payment.
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In addition to these costs, the seller will also be required to pay tax on any capital gain realized by the sale, which will be collected by the escribano. The capital gains tax rate is 12%. But be advised that while the sale is in dollars, the actual gain is calculated in pesosso the exchange rate between the peso and the dollar will affect the taxable gain. For example, my apartment gained about $35,000 in value while I owned it. But because the dollar fell significantly in value, my gain in pesos was smalland my tax was only $105.
Title insurance
Title insurance is available in Uruguay through First American or Stewart. For details, contact Turalu Brady Murdock, at tueymurdock@gmail.com
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Most of the prime agricultural land is found along the western edge of the country, near the Uruguay River (aka Ro de la Plata, downstream) near the border with Argentina. If youre planning on working the land in Uruguay, dont buy it without knowing its CONEAT rating. Also, letting your real estate agent know that you are aware of these ratingsand intend to check any prospective purchasewill keep him or her honest with respect to the lands potential productivity. Heres the categorical breakdown, according to Universidad de la Repblica, Facultad de Agronoma (College of Agricultural Science). As a reference, the national average CONEAT rating is 100, and ratings range from 0 to 263. CONEAT Agricultural Ratings Very High High Medium 190 153 115 155 135 100 125 120 115 90 75 Low 90 60 90 35
A good agronomist can tell you specifically which kinds of crops are able to thrive under any given rating. Insider tip: If you are buying land for thats destined for recreational usesuch as a development or for personal usethen you do not need a high CONEAT rating. If the rating is high, the land may be over-priced for your intended purpose.
Power of Attorney
If you cant be in Uruguay when you need to sign the Boleto de Reserva, Compromiso, or Escritura de Compraventa, make sure someone can sign for you by granting them power of attorney. This should normally be a limited Power of Attorney, which allows for the purchase of property on your behalf. You can grant Power of Attorney to a family member or a trusted friend, but its normally most convenient to give it to a lawyer, who can also review the documents from a legal standpoint. Chapter Five: Buying Property in Uruguay
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Insider tip: It is far easier to grant Power of Attorney while youre in Uruguay than it is to do it from outside the country. If youre going to need one, make sure you take care of it before you go home. Even if you think you may need one, it could be money well-spent to get it during your visit.
Rental agreements
Rental agreements are drawn up between the owner (or someone authorized by the owner, such as a real estate agent) and the future tenant. Executing the rental agreement does not require the presence of an escribano; real estate offices typically handle these contracts. Rental agreements need not be publicly recorded, but they can be if necessary. A temporary rental contract is allowed in seaside resort towns and cities (both Punta del Este and Montevideo qualify as seaside resorts). This contract must have a duration of between one day and three months. In Montevideo, these short-term rental contracts are allowed in properties built (or refurbished) after 1973. A standard long-term rental contract has a duration of one or two years, with an option of extending the contract for another year. If the tenant can prove that he always paid on time, he can stay on for another year paying the same amount as had been stipulated in the contract, or paying the increase agreed in the contract in the case of an extension. In order to avoid granting an extension, owners will sometimes include a clause with a sharp increase in price if the contract goes beyond the original term. A long-term rental tenant will have to provide one of the following: A person who acts as a guarantor, who commits to all the payments and obligations of the tenant, and who has a property to guarantee the tenants responsibilities. A deposit in the Banco Hipotecario del Uruguay (BHUThe governmentowned mortgage bank) of the equivalent of five months rent. Note: If a corporation is transferring the tenant, the corporation will often assume part of the tenants responsibilities.
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Questions?
If you have any question about the property purchase process in Uruguay, please feel free to contact attorney Juan Federico Fischer, at jfischer@fs.com.uy. Juans firm, Fischer & Schickendantz, has seven bilingual escribanos who cover all of Uruguays main cities, and escrow account service for closings. Remember, the requirements you see here are current as of January, 2012, but laws change; so its always best to double-check with an attorney before taking action.
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CHAPTER SIX
Getting a Visa and Becoming a Resident
Uruguay is somewhat unique in that the process for residency is designed to be done within Uruguay after you arrive, rather than in a consulate outside of Uruguay. Its perfect for those who try the country out for a few months and then decide to stay. Uruguays Direccin Nacional de Migracin (DNM, or simply Immigration) is the government office that deals with immigration and residency matters. This office receives residency petitions, together with the associated documents, and then reviews each request package and completes the approval process. The DNM also receives and grants visa extensions. The complete process for obtaining permanent residency takes around 12 months, in addition to the prerequisite time required to obtain the necessary documents, such as background checks. But early in the process youll get a cdula (ID card), which will give you access to everything as if you were a permanent resident. Keep in mind that residency is intended for people who are going to either live or spend significant time in Uruguay. You will be asked for an address, and its validity may be spot-checked by Immigration officials. This rule was ignored for a long time, but Immigration announced in 2011 that they intend to enforce it. Heres a simplified version of the steps: Submit a letter of intent to Immigration, and obtain an appointment date Obtain your police background check Get a simple medical exam Provide evidence of your financial means of support Turn it all in with a copy of your passport Obtain your temporary cdula (ID card) Wait Receive final approval, and obtain your permanent cdula
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Over-simplified? Well, yes. So lets take a look at the details. Note: Ive listed the contact details for all of the agencies involved in the residency process at the end of this section. A list of embassies and consulates can be found on page 209 of Appendix A.
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The benefits of Law 16.340 come with a few caveats. Heres a brief rundown: The applicant must have a documented retirement income of at least $1,500 per month and it must be retirement income. You must own a property in Uruguay (purchased after 1992) that is valued at $100,000 or moreor have purchased a Uruguayan government security of the same value. The investment must be maintained for 10 years in order to maintain residency, although you can exchange one house for another, one government security for another, or a property for a security and vice versa. Under this law, you may import a vehicle. The vehicle may not be sold for four years, and liability insurance must be maintained. The vehicle must be registered, and the registry must show that its sale is restricted. You are eligible for a Uruguayan passport, both for you and your spouse (and children under 18). This passport is granted without citizenship. Citizenship will come when you apply for it, once you have resided in Uruguay for three years (if married) or five years (if single). You may not work in Uruguay, as this is a retirees visa, but you may own a business. Note that you will be entitled to import your household effects, duty free, as you can with other residency visas. Since this visa is a bit unusual, speak to residency expert Juan Fischer (youll find his full contact details in the Rolodex in Appendix A) before applying, just to make sure that there are no missteps.
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The birth certificate, marriage certificate, and non-Interpol (non-U.S.) police records must be legalized at a Uruguayan Consulate in the country where they were issued. Once you have arrived in Uruguay, an official public translator must also translate them into Spanish. Then they are certified by the Foreign Ministry office, or the Ministerio de Relaciones Exteriores, located at Calle Cuareim 1348 in Montevideo. Legalization, as used in this section, is the authentication process performed at your closest Uruguayan consulate before submitting documents to Uruguay. Usually, you can phone the consulate and explain what you need, and theyll ask that you send them the document, plus a check or money order for $112. Insider tip: Uruguay has just approved the Hague Convention which will allow them to use the apostille processan authentication process that does not require consular legalization. The apostille process will take effect in Uruguay sometime during 2012. Well update this space when that happens. To find the closest Uruguayan consulate, visit the following link, and click on your country: www.embajada-online.com/consulados-de-Uruguay-en-otros-paises-P194.htm. If you have trouble finding your birth certificate, there is a useful online service to obtain it: www.vitalcheck.com. This service is only available in the U.S.
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resident. While youre en trmite, youll carry a normal cdula that has a lessthan-normal expiration date; usually one year. This cdula will give you access to everything residents have access to. Residente legal As you can probably guess, this means legal resident, and it represents final approval. Uruguay does not stamp your passport with a visa, as most countries do.
Note: If youre not in Uruguay when its time to solicit your appointment with Immigration, remember that your attorney can do it for you as long as youve authorized him/her to do so with a letter. At this writing, theres a 10-week backlog for appointments, so having an attorney set it up could save you a trip to the country if youre not already there.
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A few exceptions
If your parents or your spouse are citizens or legal residents of Uruguay, you still need to complete this request for change of status, but you may proceed with the residency process without waiting for approval. Citizens of some countries require a visa to enter Uruguay as a tourist.1 If youre in this situationin addition to the items mentioned aboveyoull need to attach photocopies of the pages of your passport that have your personal data, your current visa, and your current entry stamp.
This copy does not need to be certified, but be sure to have your original with you when you present it.
This requirement does not apply to citizens of the U.S., Canada, Western Europe, Israel, Japan, or New Zealand, since they do not require a visa. Neighboring countries do not require a visa or a passport.
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This is called medios de vida, which roughly equates to means of support. This certification does not come from your home country, but rather from an escribano in Uruguay. You must present evidence of how you intend to support yourself in Uruguay (pension check, Social Security, etc.) to an escribano, convince them your information is complete, and theyll prepare a certification, which youll take to Immigration. There are several possible sources for this income. Pensions from your home country2 Mutual fund or retirement fund income Proceeds from the lease of a property overseas or in Uruguay Income from a company, overseas or in Uruguay A contract to perform work in Uruguay In my case, I provided a pile of pension check stubs, bank statements showing direct deposits of the pension (in the U.S.), and bank statements from my bank in Uruguay, showing inbound wire transfers and ATM withdrawals. The escribana I used was Alexandra Fernndez in Punta del Este. Her office is located on Calle Gorlero, which is the main road on the Peninsula, and shes listed in Appendix A. Health checkup certificate This comes from the Ministerio de Salud Pblica (Department of Public Health), who will give you the certificate after checking your teeth, blood pressure, and giving you a brief exam. The certificate is called a carnet de salud. The immigration folks will send you to the facility on Calle Durazno, which is a zoo. You need to show up at 6 a.m. to get a number, and then come back at some time during the day for your appointment. In either case, be sure to tell them the physical is for residency so they give you the correct card.
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Insider tip: Do not use an escribano or escribana who has not done this before, unless you plan on repeating this step several times. The exact wording is critical, and difficult to get right without experience.
If you or your spouse is retired from Uruguay, you only need to show your most recent check stub. It need not be notarized.
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Insider tip: Instead of going to the official Ministerio de Salud facility, try the SUAT Centro Diagnostico, or MEDILAB. Rather than the 6 a.m. drill described above, they take normal appointments and are uncrowded. (See contact information on page 128.) A copy of the entry/exit card This is the slip of paper you received when entering the country. Again, save a copy for yourself, just in case. Criminal history check For U.S. citizens, this will be sent from the Interpol office to Immigration automatically when its received from the U.S. In my experience, however, you need to contact the Interpol office so that you know when it has arrived, and then follow up with Immigration to make sure they have it. I went between the offices several times before Immigration found it among a pile of folders. Chances are that the Interpol clearance will be the last thing youre waiting for, as the other items above are easily obtained. Once you know that Immigration has received it, take everything to the Immigration office and turn it inor as they say, go en trmite. For non-U.S. citizens, this criminal history must come from your former country of residence, and must be legalized by the Uruguayan consulate in that country, certified by the Ministerio de Relaciones Exteriores in Montevideo, and then translated by a public translator (if its not in Spanish). This also applies to U.S. citizens who have been living in another country for the previous five years. Note: Once youve turned everything in, you are a residente en trmite. Step four: Get your temporary cdula Your cdula will be your photo ID that identifies you as a resident of Uruguay, both during the time while you await permanent residency and thereafter. You will carry it in your wallet as you would a drivers license back home. Its the standard form of ID in Uruguay, and its number will be your account number in many places where you do business. Once you have it, the passport that got you into Uruguay can go back into its normal safe storage location.
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To get your temporary cdula, youll need the following two documents: Certificado de llegada When you become a residente en trmite, you should receive two certifications from Immigration attesting to the fact. One is addressed to Direccin Nacional de Identificacin Civil (where you get your cdula) and the other is addressed to Direccin Nacional de Aduana, which is Customs. (Chapter Seven will explain how to use this.) The name of this form (in both cases) is a Certificado de Llegada, which means certificate of arrival. Certificado de nacimiento (birth certificate) Although Immigration will tell you that no birth certificate is required to get a permanent residents visa, it is required to obtain your cdula. So if you arrived in Uruguay without a copy of your birth certificatelegalized by the Uruguayan consulate nearest your place of birth in the U.S.then youre in for a bit of work, as I was. Your birth certificate must be issued by your place of birth, and if you dont have yours, most states now sell them to you online for a nominal fee. Once youve obtained an original birth certificate, it must be legalized by the Uruguayan consulate that has jurisdiction over the state or province that issued your birth certificate.
In order to be valid, the Ministerio de Relaciones Exteriores (address below) must then certify that it was in fact legalized by one of their consulates. This will take place in Montevideo.
Once youve done this, the birth certificate must be translated into Spanish by a certified public translator. Youll find a list of public translators at the end of this chapter.
You then take your double-legalized birth certificate to the Registro de Extranjeros (address below). Here they will relieve you of your birth certificate and about $10. After about five days (at this time), you return to the same window and pick up your application, which now has a series of numbers on a tracking slip. You take these numbers to the front of the room, where youll fill out a request form, pay another $3, and take it upstairs to the notary office to collect your Uruguayan birth certificate while you wait. In this office, it is possible to get quicker service by requesting processing urgente. Its about two bucks more, and will save you hours.
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Take both documents (the certificado de llegada and the Uruguayan certificado de nacimiento) to the Direccin Nacional de Identificacin Civil (DNIC), the people who issue cdulas. Use the office closest to your home for your convenience.
Since youre a first-time cdula recipient, the normal same-day service at DNIC does not applybut it should be ready in a couple of days. Again, for a few extra bucks you can get the urgente service, and save a lot of time. The cdula that you get will look identical to the permanent one youll get later, except that on the back it will say residente en trmite, and it will have an expiration date of around a year. (When you get the real one, the cdula number will not change.) Insider tip: Id suggest bringing two copies of a legalized birth certificate with you to Uruguay, in case one gets lost. You dont need to do all of the other incountry certifications, but at least youll have an extra one if you need it, without having to obtain one (and legalize it) back in your home country. Time passeslots of time
Now youre a temporary cdula-carrying residente en tramite, waiting for the slow-moving wheels of Uruguayan bureaucracy to turn. What do you do now? Unfortunately, there are no tricks to expediting the review and approval process, whether you have enlisted an immigration lawyer to see you through it, or are doing it yourself. But remember that your temporary cdula works just like your permanent one will, so theres really no inconvenience. Unless the government decides to streamline the process or at least computerize it, youll not see an approved package in less than about nine months. Nag-nag-nag It can however, take much longer than that.
With so many documents and review organizations involved, your package has numerous opportunities to get delayed. And when that happens, they normally dont call. Your package could get buried in the unresolved problems drawer for eternity if you (or your immigration consultant) arent there from time to time checking on it.
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I personally made it a practice to visit Immigration at least every month to check on progress and ensure that they didnt need my help in any way. Several times, there were questions with documents that I needed to answer, or issues I needed to resolve. Without this attention, the 12 months that my residency took could easily have turned into 15 or 16 months, or longer. If you cant baby-sit your residency approval (or dont want to), it may be prudent to seek help from an immigration consultant or attorney. But then youd better check to make sure that theyre checking.
Insider tip: If you know you will need to leave the country three times during the coming year, just ask for a permiso de reingreso for three trips instead of one. Its easier than returning later for additional permisos. You save additional trips to Immigration, and only have to pay once.
During this wait time, you will need a special ticket called a permiso de reingreso, or a re-entry permission when coming and going from Uruguay. This tells the people at the airport that youre excused from normal tourist staytime restrictions. You can get this permiso at any immigration office, not just in Montevideo.
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At the end of three years, it must be renewed. Heres what you do: Go to Immigration, and inform them that you need to renew your cdula. Take your passport with you. Immigration will give you a new certificado de llegada, authorizing DNIC to give you a new cdula. Go back to DNIC (where you got your first cdula) and theyll take your money ($7), and give you a time to come back and get your new card, normally within three or four days.
Immigration costs
As of January 2012, the total cost everything you need to become a resident is just over $500, mostly paid in small payments for paperwork processing. For a complete list of charges, you can take a look at the Immigration website; www.dnm.minterior.gub.uy/tributos_tramites.php Aside from the immigration charges, there will be other incidental costs associated with the process. Theres a nominal fee for the medical exam, and a small fee for each rubber stamp or certificate you get from public agencies. There will also be costs associated with legalizations in the consulate and Interpol background checks (U.S. citizens), as well as fees for any documents required to be translated into Spanish by a public translator. Any fees paid to immigration consultants or attorneys will be separate.
Immigration consultants
These consultants specialize in getting your residency. They know the ropes, and they know what works. Many people use the services of an immigration consultant, and theyre particularly helpful if you dont speak Spanish, since the immigration agents do not speak English.
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Immigration consultants can be anything from an experienced translator to an escribano or attorney. Unlike immigration attorneys, theres no pre-set qualification or license for consultants. Speak to the prospects before you decide who to go with, and you should also compare prices. Insider tip: Be careful when using expats who provide unlicensed immigration consultancy services. A couple of friends were recently dropped, when they encountered a minor hitch that the consultant didnt want to bother with. They had to start over with a professional, which cost them time and money. Here are a couple of immigration consultants working in Montevideo: Juan Fischer, Fischer and Schickendantz, Rincn 487, Piso 4, Montevideo 11000, Uruguay; tel. +598 2915-7468 ext. 130; cell +598 9992-5106; fax +598 2916-1352; e-mail: jfischer@fs.com.uy; website: www.fs.com.uy. They also have in-house certified translators and escribanos. Peter F. Stross, Uruguayan Relocation Services; tel. +598 2709-9869; cell +598 (99) 600-455; e-mail: uruguayan.relocation@montevideo.com.uy; Skype: PeterStross.
Immigration attorney
Federico Formento is an immigration attorney, which is what you need if you have an unusual situation, need a creative solution for meeting the requirements, or have a blip on your criminal history. Feel free to contact him if you have any questions. He is part of Fischer and Schickendantz, above. Federico Formento; tel. +598 2915-7468 ext. 113; e-mail: relocation@fs.com.uy.
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You might ask yourself why a U.S. or Canadian citizen would want a Uruguayan passport, given that their passports are much more flexible to travel with. Good question. Other than entering nearby Brazil without a visa, there are a few practical reasons. One is that some countries have cumulative limits on how long you can stay within their borders in a given year. If you alternate the use of passports you can double your stay time, which would be handy if you have a part-time home in such a country. Also, you can avoid reciprocal fees and visa requirements imposed on U.S. citizens in places like Chile and Brazil, among others. (These fees are imposed because the U.S. imposes similar fees and visa requirements on their citizens.) Some countries also waive their airport exit fees for their neighbors if youre carrying their passport. More importantly however, is that the second citizenship serves as insurance. You have a second home country waiting for you, in case you ever want to take advantage of what it has to offer.
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SUAT Centro Diagnostico (Carne de Salud), Clinica del Estadio, Estadio Centenario, Tribuna America, Montevideo; tel. +598 2487-7047.
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CHAPTER SEVEN
Moving Your Household and Pets
As a new resident in Uruguay, you are entitled to bring in all of your household effects duty-freea terrific benefit in a country that would otherwise have high import duties. Under the program, you may import your household effects after you formally apply for residency, up until the time you receive final approval, more than a year later. Oddly, you cannot import your things duty-free under this program after you receive final approval.
Relocation assistance
If youre relocating to Uruguay, youll likely be interested in the services of CCM Soluciones, especially if you dont speak Spanish. They are a relocation assistance company, who can help you with any settling-in chores that youre facingfrom hooking up your phone, to getting your drivers license, to finding an elementary school for the kids. For more information, contact founder Andrea Cavallo at andrea.cavallo@ccmsoluciones.com.
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Part of the confusion comes from the fact that Uruguayan Customs has different allowances for different categories of residency. So if you are coming as a diplomat, for example, you fall under different regulations than a retiree would; these are different yet again from those for a citizen or resident of Uruguay who is returning from abroad. The law says that those who have received residency are entitled to bring in, within six months, one time only, free of all Customs duties, the furniture and household effects of their dwelling, in quantities commensurate with their needs, as determined by the Customs authorities. And in my own experience, this is exactly how it is applied. I found Customs to be quite reasonable, and as a resident, you should be able to bring virtually everything. Their main concern is not really how many used TV sets you have, but whether or not youre abusing the system or bringing things in for resale. Ill give you a couple of tips later on to make things go more smoothly.
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less than the replacement cost. In my case, I calculated that the replacement cost of what I shipped (a four-bedroom household) was around $50,000. I insured the shipment for about $24,000, with each item carrying its own individual value on my inventory list. My declared value for Customs in Uruguay was just $12,000, on advice of my moving agent. There are three ways you can guarantee your shipment, and each has its advantages under certain situations: Deposit the guarantee directly with Customs Use an insurance policy to guarantee the shipment Guarantee the shipment with a Certificate of Deposit (CD) in your name Lets use my declared value of $12,000 to figure out the following examples: Deposit with Customs If you deposit the money directly with Customs, you put it into a special government account maintained for this purpose. Once youve presented evidence of residency, they give it back to you. This method is simple. While it does tie up your money with no interest, it does not cost anything. Insurance policy Purchasing an insurance policy is the method recommended by my movers, and I understand that its what many people doalthough I dont understand why. The insurance is purchased from Banco de Seguros del Estado (BSE), a government bank that provides insurance. To obtain the insurance, you must deposit 50% of the declared value in the bank, which is $6,000 in this example. Then the insurance premium costs 4% of the declared value, plus $20 commission to the insurance agent. This works out to $500. So this method ties up half the money ($6,000) pending your visa approval, and costs $500. Guarantee with a CD Here you buy a Certificate of Deposit (CD) in your own name at the bank, with a guarantee from the bank that they will not let you cash it in without a release from Customs. This is the method I used. To provide the guarantee, the bank charges 0.2% per month of the amount guaranteed. So in the $12,000 example, youd pay $288 for a one-year guarantee. But since the CD is in your name, you get interest. At a 2% interest rate, youd
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earn $240 interest, so your net expense for this method is $48. It also ties up your $12,000 until you get your visa. (After I obtained my visa, I got my release from Customs within two days.) If I had it to do over again Now that I have confidence in Uruguays processes and legal system, Id save myself all the bank visits and just give the money to Customs. Its easy, free, and the money is safe.
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Turn in your documents to Customs within 60 days of the date on the certificado Your container arrives If you let your things leave for Uruguay before you get the Interpol results back and your Interpol results are delayed, then your shipment may arrive before you have a certificado de llegada and authorization from Customs. Then youll need legal help, and fast. Uruguayans are generally flexible and accommodating with people who are trying to follow the rules, so I dont expect any severe consequences if a deadline is missed. But Id avoid putting it to the test.
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On the other hand, if you bought a $25,000 insurance policy without itemizing the shipment with prices for each piece, then be prepared to negotiate for what you getitem by item.
All dogs entering Uruguay must also be treated for the tapeworm (Echinococcus granulosus) with Praziquantel, more than 72 hours and less than 30 days before the arrival date in Uruguay. This treatment must be listed on the health certificate. The health certificate must state that the animal was examined within 10 days of departure and presented no clinical signs of diseases associated with that species. Legalization of this certificate by the Uruguayan consulate is not required.
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Sedation
Although there has always been a lot of debate over whether or not its best to sedate an animal for air travel, you should know that the American Veterinary Medical Association does not advise sedation, because of the respiratory health risk to the animal at high altitudes (which are encountered even in pressurized aircraft). Pets should only be sedated when specifically recommended and prescribed by a veterinarian. Typically, its the owner who needs sedation when shipping an animal, not the pet.
Temperature restrictions
When traveling in the hold as checked baggage or cargo, there are restrictions on the shipment of animals for both high and low ground temperatures, at the departure and arrival cities, as well as any stopover point on the trip. (These do not apply to animals traveling in the cabin.) A high-end restriction of 85 F and a low restriction of 45 F are the norm. The airline may allow a vet to waive the low temperature restriction if the animal is accustomed to low temperatures, but the high temperature restriction cannot be waived. Additionally, further temperature restrictions (and with some airlines, outright summertime bans) apply to shortnosed dogs such as these: Boston Terrier Boxer English/French Bulldog King Charles Spaniel Lhasa Apso
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Pug Shar-Pei Shih Tzu To avoid these restrictions, try booking stopovers in the early morning or at night when the temperatures may be lower, or booking a nonstop flight where possible. If you want your pet to have water during the trip, its a good idea to freeze it in their dish to prevent it from spilling out during the loading process. The USDA requires that the pet be offered water and food within four hours of the flight, and some airlines will require that you sign a statement attesting to this.
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CHAPTER EIGHT
Cost of Living in Uruguay
The cost of living in Uruguay will vary depending on a number of factors, such as where you live, how you live, whether or not you need a car, and the performance of the dollar. Lets take a look at some of the factors that will make up your cost of living in Uruguay.
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Item Rent HOA fees Property taxes Transportation Gas Electricity Water Telephone Internet Cable TV Household help Food Entertainment Total
Renting a house Pesos USD Notes UYU 15,000 $750 HOA fees for houses are only UYU 0 $0 found in gated communities. UYU 0 UYU 1,140 UYU 833 UYU 2,900 UYU 305 UYU 240 UYU 620 UYU 655 UYU 0 UYU 7,200 UYU 8,000 UYU 36,893 $0 $57 $42 $145 $15 $12 $31 $33 $0 $360 $400 $ 1,845 Allow $350 if a full-time main is required. Taxes normally paid by the owner Taxis, buses etc. Assumes you have no car. Used for heating and cooking. Less if youre not there in winter. Assumes AC and heat. Less if you dont use AC or are gone for winter.
As you can see, the monthly budget for renters is not all that high. For apartment rental, assume an extra $160 to $200 per month for HOA fees. If you own a home, it will be somewhat lower. Well talk about some additional budget considerations below.
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Item Rent HOA fees Property taxes Transportation Gas Electricity Water Telephone Internet Cable TV Household help Food Entertainment Total
Pesos UYU 0 UYU 0 UYU 1,250 UYU 1,140 UYU 833 UYU 2,900 UYU 305 UYU 240 UYU 620 UYU 655 UYU 0 UYU 7,200 UYU 8,000 UYU 23,143
Owning a house USD Notes $0 $0 HOA applies only to gated communities $63 Average Altantida home rate $57 Taxis, buses etc. Assumes you have no car. Used for heating and cooking. Less if youre $42 not there in winter. Assumes AC and heat. Less if you dont use $145 AC or are gone for winter. $15 $12 $31 $33 $0 Allow $350 if a full-time main is required. $360 $400 $1,158
Finally, heres a sample budget assuming that you own an apartment in Montevideo.
Item Rent HOA fees Property taxes Transportation Gas Electricity Water Telephone Internet Cable TV Household help Food Entertainment Total Owning an apartment in Montevideo Pesos USD Notes UYU 0 $0 UYU 3,200 $160 UYU 955 $48 UYU 1,250 $63 Taxis, buses etc. Assumes you have no car. Used for heating and cooking. Less if youre UYU 200 $10 not there in winter. Assumes AC and heat. Less if you dont use UYU 1,050 $53 AC or are gone for winter. UYU 0 $0 Included on HOA fees UYU 255 $13 UYU 620 $31 UYU 655 $33 UYU 0 $0 Allow $350 if a full-time main is required. UYU 7,200 $360 UYU 8,000 $400 UYU 23,385 $1,171
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Owning a car
If you own a car, add $281 per month or so for a modest amount of driving. You would be able to deduct most of your transportation budget from the charts above, which assumes you dont have a car (for more on the cost of owning a car, see page 154).
Travel
If youre planning on trips to the U.S. (which are not cheap), be sure to add that into the budget...or if youre planning on sending your kids or grandkids money to come down.
Telephone costs
The telephone cost is based on my own usage, which is light. If you make a lot of calls within Uruguay, this will cost more (although all calls within the country are local calls). Also, I use my computer to make overseas calls over the Internet, so I dont pay any long-distance charges. If you plan on making long-distance calls from your land line, factor that in.
Taxes
Taxes can vary. Punta del Este has the highest property taxes in Uruguay, and I pay over $1,900 per year, while in Montevideo, I pay around $500. A 3,000-square-foot house in Salto would cost about $1,200, based on numbers I got from an owner there.
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As you can see, owning a car adds significantly to the bottom line of your budget. Diesel fuel is $6.52 per gallon, while gasoline is $6.71 per gallon. (Thats 34.4 pesos and 35.4 pesos per liter, respectively.) There are lots of diesel cars here, and those fuel prices explain why. With our turbo diesel, the mileage is super. Living as I do, in a somewhat-rural area outside Punta del Este, makes it difficult to do without a car since theres little I can walk to except for the beach and a small neighborhood grocery. But if you live in the city, you can get by easily without one. The public transportation is cheap and plentiful, including taxis and a good bus system. Theres even a ferry to Argentina. When you need a car for traveling around and seeing the country, its easy enough to rent one for as long as you need. Cities where you can easily do without a car could include Montevideo, Salto, Mercedes, Paysand, Colonia, and Punta del Este (if you lived downtown on the Peninsula), and perhaps Atlntida. Each of these cities has a walkable downtown, buses and taxis, and easily available car rentals.
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CHAPTER NINE
Health Care For All
Quality health care is readily available throughout Uruguay. As a resident, you are eligible to participate in the national health care system (which includes a network of free clinics), as well as higher-end private hospital associations. A brief list of hospitals (with their contact information) is in Appendix A.
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The most popular hospital among English-speaking expats, diplomats, and many rich Uruguayans is British Hospital in Montevideo. Everyone seems to agree that they are the top of the line in hospitals here. They even make house calls in Montevideo, and have English-speaking doctors. In Punta del Este, La Asistencial is well known, with a network of hospitals throughout the department of Maldonado. Another highly-rated association is Mautone.
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CHAPTER TEN
Learning the Tricks of the Uruguayan Culture
Greetings
People in Uruguay are polite and friendly, and greetings are a bit warmer than youd expect in North America, but normal in much of Latin America. The primary way to greet someone is with a warm, firm handshake. Among friends or people you know well, however, women generally exchange a kiss on the cheek, as do men and women. Men shake hands or share a hug, and often will exchange a kiss on the cheek. Verbal greetings depend on the time of day or situation. Hola is common for a casual greeting at any time. Buen da (rather than buenos das) is normal for people you dont know quite as well, with buenas tardes being used in the afternoon and buenas noches at night. At any time, youll hear como andas, which means hows it going. In cities people do not generally greet strangers when passing on the street, while in rural areas they are more likely to do so. At a social function it is normal to greet and say goodbye to every member of a group individually. A casual wave and a Hi everybody or Good night everybody is not acceptable, as much as we North Americans like its efficiency. Be ready to dole out kisses and handshakes to everyone. Do not launch into a conversation or a business transaction (such as in a store) without first extending a greeting.
Excuse me?
When youre passing by someone in a situation where youd say excuse me in English, use con permiso, which means with permission. Its often shortened to just permiso.
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You also use con permiso when entering someones home (even though they just told you to come in) and often when crossing from one part of their home to anothersuch as from the living areas to the bedroom wing. Uruguayans treat women with the respect that they had in the U.S. back in the 1950s. So men should hold doors for women, allow them to pass through first, order first in restaurants, etc.
Punctuality
Make sure you arrive on time for a business meeting. Five to 10 minutes late is tolerated but if you arrive any later it may be considered disrespectful. For social gatherings, arrival time is less important. If someone invites you to their home at 9 p.m., it means around 9 p.m., and it is fine to arrive up to half an hour or so later. Make sure, however, that you NEVER arrive ahead of time.
Conflict
Most Uruguayans try to avoid uncomfortable situations in both their personal and professional lives. Conflict and combative behavior are unusual. The direct, somewhat-confrontational approach that is often appreciated in the American business environment would be considered rude in Uruguay.
Gift giving
There are no specific rules for gift giving in Uruguay. Generally, any item is much appreciated. Giving gifts to business executives is not required, but can be a nice gesture. Small items with a company logo (for an initial visit) are appreciated. Gifts are not required from a dinner guest, but most Uruguayans usually take a bottle of wine, flowers, or candy when invited for dinner at someones home. Uruguayans really go to a lot of trouble and preparation when they invite friends over for dinner, so you should respond in kind when returning invitations. They will expect an organized gathering rather than an informal get together.
Coffee time!
When people get together for coffee, it is much like being invited for tea in the UK. Its customary to serve coffee and tea, as well as an assortment of small sandwiches or cakes and pastries. At least an item or two is typically home-made, in my experience. Coffee is usually strong, and in small cups. Coffee usually takes place around 5 p.m. 160 Uruguay: The Owners Manual
Dress
In general, Uruguayans are fairly conservative in dress (except for swimwear), and the general standards from North America and Europe will work here as well. In formal business situations, men should wear a suit and a tie. In Punta del Este and other resort areas, however, its just the opposite. In summertime, its anything but formal. Beach or casual attire is the norm. Skimpy beachwear is acceptable in Uruguay, and more prevalent on the most popular beaches. Im told that Uruguayans can sometimes recognize North Americans by their frumpy swimsuitsswimsuits that might be deemed racy in parts of the U.S.
Restaurants
In a restaurant, always let women be seated first. Typically the waiter will take their order and serve them first. Never order before a woman has had the chance to order, except when she asks for more time. It is normal for the patron to select his own table when entering a restaurant, although the host or waiter will suggest one if you look lost. The North American practice of needing the waiters permission to take a given table (unless its marked reserved) would be very unusual and considered rude. Believe me, after a few years in South America youll bristle when a U.S. waiter tries to tell you where youre allowed to sit. Be sure to ask for the check when youre ready to pay. It is generally impolite for a waiter to bring the check unless youve asked for it. Many a foreigner has sat for an hour waiting for the check, while the waiter stood by waiting to be asked to bring it. Say, La cuenta, por favor when youre ready to pay up. Many nicer restaurants will offer you a complimentary after-dinner drink when youre finished with dessert. The most common is probably Limoncello, due to the heavy Italian influence. (The drink is usually offered after youve asked for the checkand theyre sure you werent going to order one.)
When to eat
Uruguayans start with a light breakfast and have lunch sometime between 1 p.m. and 4 p.m. Restaurants normally open for dinner at 8 p.m. (some earlier) but few people go out to eat before 10 p.m. (In Punta del Este, the early-bird special ends at 10 p.m.) Most everyone has a coffee around 5 p.m., and the cafs fill up with people stopping to enjoy a cappuccino and a pastry.
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Business breakfasts are common when a foreigner is involved. Business lunches are usually held between 1 p.m. and 2:30 p.m. Dinner gatherings are generally reserved for family and friends.
The spike
In more-casual restaurants, theres another way that the bill may be presented. Theyll have a short spike on the table (like a two-inch nail mounted on a round base), on which they place small register receipts for everything you order. By the end of the meal, you may have four or five receipts impaled on this spike. At the end of the meal, theres no need to ask for the billyou just pull the receipts off the spike, and add them up (or ask the waiter to add them for you). You can either hand the receipts and the money to the waiter, or pay at a register.
Tipping
Tipping is normal in a restaurant, and should be about 10% to 12% of the bill. The tip is not included in the bill. Taxi drivers are not tipped, but service station attendants are. I usually give them 20 pesos or so, regardless of what I spent. Bellhops are normally tipped, and I think 20 to 40 pesos is about right, depending on how much theyre carrying.
Personal titles
In much of Latin America, titles are important. So youd use Doctor, Engineer, etc. when addressing people of those professions or someone with a PhD or JD. In Uruguay, I dont see this as much as I do in the more-Spanish countries, and you dont need to make any special effort to find out someones title in order to avoid being impolite. I hear Doctor used for MDs, but Ive never heard Ingeniero or Arquitecto (Engineer or Architect) used to address someone in conversation.
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Uruguayan women will usually keep their surname when they marry, and sometimes add de and their husbands name to their own name. For example: If Mary Prez married John Acosta, she would be known as Mary Prez de Acosta, but more commonly Mary Prez.
Telephone
If you need to telephone someone, it is generally acceptable to call after 9 a.m. and before 9:30 p.m. When you answer the phone, hola is most commonly used, while ciao is mostoften used when hanging up.
Smoking
Since 2006, smoking has been banned in public places, so you cannot smoke in restaurants, bars, or workplaces. Smoking, however, remains pretty popular, and many restaurants maintain their outdoor caf all year long to accommodate smokers. Dont plan on smoking in peoples homes unless the owner smokes or invites you to do so.
Antique cars
Throughout Uruguay, youll see antique carsespecially outside Montevideo and Punta del Este. Some of these cars are wonderfully restored classic beauties. But more frequently, theyre old cars that have been in use as someones vehicle since they were newand held together by the diligent efforts of their owners through the years.
Lee Harrison
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I had expected to see cars from the 50s and 60s, but was surprised at the number from the 40s, 30s, and even the 20s.
Music
There are two sides to the music scene. The one I find annoying is the habit of playing American music from the 80s. And its not good 80s music: its what I call drivel. If youd like to hear Rod Stewart doing remakes of Barry Manilow, or a Madonna sound-alike doing Bob Marley, youre likely to find it here. On the other hand, the tango music tradition is a true national treasure. Also, Uruguay has jazz and classical stationsa rarity in South Americaas well as terrific music from around the world, including places like Ireland, Israel, and Japan. For a taste of some of Uruguays traditional music, see this video, which is accompanied by a slideshow of some great photos of old Montevideo: www.youtube.com/watch?v=LkfzK_nX-QM.
The parrillada
This is one thing that any true meat-eater must try when visiting Uruguay. Many parrillas (from grill, in Spanish) are quite largemaybe six square feet and can grill an amazing variety of meats. When ordered, youll generally get between five and seven types of meat brought sizzling to your table, including steaks, chicken, veal, and sausages. While the term parrilla means grill, the term parrillada means grilled, and often is used to describe the restaurant or the food, but not the grill itself.
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The red wines of Uruguay (especially Tannat) are great, and a fantastic buy, so make sure you try a bottle with your parrillada. On ordering my first parrillada, among all the attractive offerings I also received what looked like some sort of long intestine, which appeared to be filled with fat. After gagging down a token piece, it went to a grateful dog waiting outside the door. The parrillada is probably the most popular form of restaurant in Uruguay, and youll see them all over. Also, virtually every home has a parrilla.
Nazareen Heazle
Take a number
Uruguayans are orderly and polite people, and jostling to maintain ones place in line would be against their nature. So just about anywhere that people are waiting in linefrom the copy store to the bankyoull find a number dispenser. Just take a number, have a seat, and relax until your number is called.
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Crime
Violent crime is very unusual in Uruguay, as are sex crimes. This is not to say that there is no crime, however. In some of the notoriously bad sectors of Montevideo, for example, robberies are fairly common against the unaware. But you can take comfort in the fact that all youre likely to lose is the money or valuables youre carryingyou wont be killed to eliminate a witness, raped, beaten for fun, or the victim of a drive-by shooting.
Club de Remeros
In English, this roughly means rowing club, which is appropriate for these clubs frequently found in the towns along Uruguays rivers. But while they are in fact rowing clubs, they also offer a lot more. The Club de Remeros in Salto, for example, has a pool, a swim team, gym, sauna, a football team and even a chorus. Perhaps wed call it an athletic club, on a grand scale. Saltos club costs $26 per month.
National pastimes
Candombe is a drum-based musical form of Uruguay, and youll see the drummers frequently parading on streets around the country, particularly Montevideo, where it originated in the early 1800s. Actually, youll hear the Candombe processions long before you see them, as there can be as many as 20 drummers in a single procession. Candombe originated among the 19th-century African population in Montevideo and is based on Bantu African drumming with some European influence and touches of tango.
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Tango, of course, is today more popular than ever. Not only the dance, but the music as well. Mate is a strong national tradition in Uruguay. All around the country youll see people of all ages sipping this herbal tea from a hollowed gourd through a silver or stainless straw.
Football (soccer) is another national passion, as well as a sport at which the country excels. Uruguay has won two international championships (World Cups) and two Olympic medals. They surprised the world by making it to the semifinals in 2010; surpassing both Brazil and Argentina. If you have any friends from the U.K., theyll appreciate being reminded that Uruguay has won more World Cups than England has. Chapter Ten: Learning the Tricks of the Uruguayan Culture 167
iStockphoto.com/Petro Teslenko
La Semana Santa or Semana del turismo (Easter week) is a big vacation period in Uruguay. Many people use this time for their annual vacation, and very little gets done around the country.
Noche de Nostalgia
On August 24th, 1978, the owners of a local radio station organized a dance party featuring old rock and roll hits. The creators came up with the idea to take advantage of the night before the Independence Day holiday on August 25th. The idea during the first years of these new parties was to go out and listen to old American and British hits from the 60s and 70s. The music spans the era from the Beatles and Simon and Garfunkel, to Cat Stevens, Dire Straits, and Queen. From the beginning of August, radio stations start playing these old hits, and do so until the night of August 24th. Today, Noche de Nostalgia is an official holiday in Uruguay, and according to many sources, the most popular holiday. It appears to be the rough equivalent of New Years Eve in the U.S., and virtually everyoneof all ages goes out to party.
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Tacky websites
Often when you go to a Latin American-designed website, the first thing you see is the dreaded word, cargando. This means that youll wait while the site loads up your computer with some unwanted multimedia presentation so you can listen to chirping birds, the sound of crashing waves or tacky music while you look for property prices. (They apparently dont realize that many Americans are surfing on the sly at work, and will probably close their browser when the noise starts.) The next dreaded word is consultar, which appears on their property list instead of a price. Translated, this means e-mail us, and well decide how much were going to charge for that property. That is, if they answer the e-mail.
Answering e-mails
In Uruguay, you may find that many business, government agencies, and service providers are really bad at answering e-mails. Either they dont answer promptly, or more often, they dont answer at all. While this is unusual in countries like the U.S. and Canada, it is just part of life here albeit a frustrating one for expats used to prompt replies from service providers in their home countries. You must be proactive in following up with any query or service thats being provided to you. If, for example, youve hired an attorney to help with your visa application, be sure to follow up with him/her on a regular basis by telephone. Most wont do anything unless they are pushed/ reminded. And remember, this is not an indication of how good or bad they are at what they do, its merely a cultural thing.
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Central heat
Winter is nothing new in Uruguay; Im sure its been here for many years. So it still surprises me that they never quite got the hang of efficient central heating systems. I looked at only two houses (of hundreds) that had a real central heating system. I could understand this if it got cool once every few years, but Uruguay has a couple of months every year when most of us need heat. Fortunately, you can get a comfortable system without spending much money.
Infrastructure
After a few years of living in the Ecuadorian Andes, I still marvel at the fast, modern roads and highways (with free mechanical assistance). There are plenty of telephone lines available when you need them, drinkable water country-wide, good cell service, Internet, and cable TV.
Marked prices
One of my early good impressions about Uruguay was the presence of price tags in shops. It was quite a relief after years of having shop-owners establish their prices based on what they thought I could afford.
Personal safety
While Uruguay is certainly not crime-free, violent crime is very rare. And in many areas (such as where I live) youll enjoy un-fenced yards, windows without bars, and safe beaches.
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Lack of stress
Uruguay has a truly laid-back and non-confrontational culture. People have seemingly-unlimited patience and are very slow to get upset. Virtually every Latin American country claims to be laid back, but Uruguay is the only country where Ive found it to be a cultural norm.
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CHAPTER ELEVEN
Insiders Tips for Uruguay
Here are a number of hints that will help to get you off to a good start when you arrive in Uruguay.
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If your license expires however, youll need to start over from scratch: a brief written test, an interview, and the driving test. This will require that you read a pamphlet and speak Spanish. Either way you get it, your license is usually good for 10 years.
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But when you try to sell your home, an inspector will come out to your house and assess any changes since last time it was inspected. You can easily pay thousands of dollars of back taxes and fines, which must be cleared prior to selling your property. My attorney recommends that you always require a contractor (in writing) to provide proof that the job has been registered against your property identification number (called padron) and that all required BPS payments have been paid.
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The hairdresser
The offerings here are pretty standard and affordable, and youll find everything you need. The sophistication of the salonand what they offerwill reflect the type of neighborhood that theyre in. Prices are generally posted, and appointments are very rare.
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Tipping
Its rare to see a restaurant bill in Uruguay with the tip included, so plan on leaving about 10% to 12% of the bill as a propino. Taxi drivers are not tipped, but service station attendants are. Give them 20 pesos, regardless of what you spend. Bellhops are normally tipped, and 20 to 40 pesos is about right, depending on how much theyre carrying.
Clothing
Most clothing items will be available in local shops at fairly reasonable prices, but dont expect the quality-per-price that youre used to in the States. Also, tailor shops are widespread and affordable. But brand-name clothing imported from Europe or the U.S. is expensive. Most clothing sales are targeted to lower-quality items. My advice? Get good quality clothing at competitive prices during your trips to the U.S.
Tips on appliances
This is another item you should bring along if youre coming as a resident. There are lots of appliance stores, but the appliances are basic and small, and many are of cheap quality. The huge, high-quality washers, dryers, and dishwashers that were used to in North America wont be found easily in Uruguay, and if you find them theyll cost twice as much. Most likely, your appliances from home will be 110-voltUruguays electricity supply is 220-volt. So youll need a transformer for those 110-volt appliances. Ive used them around the house, and they work great: just plug the transformer into the wall, and then plug your appliance into the transformer. Heres where you can buy them: CERBA, Calle Paysandu 1284 and Jaguarol, Montevideo; tel. +598 2901-0537. Remember that most modern electronics will run on either 110 or 220 volts. Your computer, printer, monitor, and even stereo equipment probably wont need a transformer. Check the nameplate on the appliance to be sure. The plug pattern is two round prongs, of about 1/8 in diameter (see below). The spacing and prong length are about the same as an American plug. Every hardware store in Uruguay has the adaptors, as many appliances are sold here with American plugs.
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Public transportation
Taxis are plentiful and inexpensive in Montevideo, and they all use meters. Outside Montevideo, the availability of taxis depends on the size of the town youre in. Taxis in Punta del Este cost a bit more than in Montevideo, but at least youll get a Mercedes City buses cost about 75 cents at todays exchange rates, and theyre a good way to get around town.
Cross-country and international buses are clean, modern, and comfortable. Theyre a great way to get around the country, and the ride from Montevideo to Punta del Este (a two-hour journey) costs about $7.25.
Nude beaches
On remote stretches of beach, you may occasionally catch sight of a nude sunbather or bather. Rarely, its possible to see them even in more-populated areas since its not illegal. But Uruguay also has two official nude beaches: Playa Sirenita in the department of Rocha, and Playa Chihuahua near Punta del Este. Whats odd is that they identify them with a sign, of the type youd use to mark the entrance to a national park. Theyre called a Playa Naturista.
The beach at Chihuahua is well over a mile long and even has a gay men area. But of course you neednt be gay to go. Since the regular naturist beach is mostly for couples and families, this beach is where any unaccompanied male will likely end up.
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CHAPTER TWELVE
Your Tax Guide to Uruguay
Uruguay continues to be a solid, offshore haven, with little tax burden on foreign residents. Uruguay has personal income tax, but it only applies to Uruguayan-source income, including rental income of properties inside Uruguay. There is also a flat tax of 12% imposed on interest and dividend income from abroad, which may apply to both Uruguayans and foreign residents living in Uruguay, although you can exclude any tax paid to other countries. Otherwise, income from abroad is not taxed, even if the foreign-source money is received by a bank in Uruguay. Uruguay has strong laws on tax secrecy as well as banking secrecy. The country does not exchange tax or bank account information with the U.S. or Canada.
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In addition to IVA, there is a luxury tax (IMESI) included in the cost of some specific goods, such as automobiles, alcoholic beverages, gasoline, and tobacco. Like most of the worlds countriesand unlike the U.S.this sales tax is included in the marked price of an item; taxes are not added at the register. And, if you are a business, you offset IVA paid on goods and services with IVA charged to customers.
Property taxes
The municipal property tax (known as contribucin inmobiliaria) runs from 0.25% to 1% of the market value of the property. On average, it is about 0.5% of the value of the property (and less, in the case of rural properties). There is also a school tax, known as impuesto a la enseanza primaria. The rate is approximately 0.1% to 0.2% of the market value. This tax does not apply to rural properties. Additionally, certain municipalities are empowered to apply other minor taxes on properties, such as impuestos de puerta, for public street-cleaning and the like. These usually dont add up to more than $5 or $10 per month, if they exist at all.
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This tax took effect in 2011, and its hard to see how it could be enforced for American and Canadian citizens, since Uruguay does not exchange tax information with these countries. Also, each American citizen is a unique tax case, given the mix of taxable/non-taxable dividends, and ones individual tax rate. Foreign non-residents (who spend less than 183 days per year in Uruguay) must pay a rate of 12% of their Uruguayan-source income. Like residents, you pay nothing on income from outside Uruguay, except as noted above.
Asset tax
Known as impuesto al patrimonio, this tax can apply in certain circumstances to both corporations and individuals, based on their net worth. Your net worth, for purposes of the asset tax, is restricted to the sum of your holdings within Uruguayprimarily, your property. In the case of individuals, the first $105,000 for a single person ($210,000 for a couple) is not taxed. The valuation of your property is based on the assessed
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value rather than the market value. In essence, you are unlikely to have to pay any asset tax if you own a property bought at less than $150,000 (for individuals) or $300,000 (for couples). This tax is significant only with assets of over $500,000 of market value. The example at the end of this chapter will illustrate this point. But even in that case, the tax is almost irrelevant, since it is being gradually phased out (for individuals), every year, according to a 2007 law. By 2017, it will be reduced to 0.1%.
Tourism
Investments in infrastructure for the tourist industry are eligible for generous tax exemptions. This applies to hotels, resorts, and various other types of establishments. The tax benefits include: A total exemption from IVA on equipment and materials imported to build or equip the establishment. Exemption of corporate income tax. Exemption of capital/assets tax for a period of 10 years.
Industrial promotion
At an investors request, the government can declare a project of national interest if it fulfills certain requirements. These are typically related to the expansion of production facilities and export-oriented industries.
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Examples include industries such as fishing, agro-industries, dairy products, and mining, to name a few. This incentive provides for: Exemption of import tariffs and other taxes on the import of capital goods. Exemption of capital/assets tax. Partial exemption of corporate income tax. Special funds that grant generous credit schemes.
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SAs are easy and inexpensive to incorporate, and usually investors purchase a readily incorporated (but not-yet-activated) SA, which can be made available and used immediately. The SAs sole responsibilities are to: Have at least one officer or director who is registered with the tax authorities and the Public Commerce Registry. File tax forms twice a year. Close its corporate books once a year. Pay the taxes that apply to the company.
Asset tax
The fiscal (assessed) value is lower than the market value: lets assume $230,000. The first $210,000 is untaxed for a couple. So the tax applies only to the $20,000 that was above the $210,000 exemption. Since the rate is 0.7% for the first taxable $210,000, the tax would be $140.
Property taxes
The municipal property tax would be about $1,300, while the school tax would be around $300 per year, giving a total of approximately $1,600. Remember, these are average values and can vary with the municipality.
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As an American expat, you will be entitled to some tax breaks. For more information and help on this topic contact our U.S. tax expert Nick Hodges and his team: NCH Tax & Wealth Advisors, 1661 E. Chapman Ave., #2A, Fullerton, CA 92831; tel. (800) 748-4159; e-mail: info@nchwealth.com; websites: www.nchwealth.com and www.expatcfo.com. Nick has also written a book on filing your tax returns as an American overseas. The specially commissioned for IL guide on taxes for expats: Expat Taxes Made Easy: The Complete Guide to US and Foreign Taxes for the American Overseas will walk you through that much-dreaded process of filing your U.S. tax returns when you live overseas. For more details, see https://orders.internationalliving.com/120SEGTA5/U120N2U1/index.htm?pageNumber=2.
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CHAPTER THIRTEEN
Doing Business in Uruguay
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These sites are government websites for the departments indicated. Ministry of Industry, Energy, and Mining; website: www.miem.gub.uy. This site is a good source for the current happenings in the legislature having to do with industry, energy, and mining. Ministry of Economy and Finance; website: www.mef.gub.uy. Ive used this site mostly for economic and tax information. Ministry of Tourism; website: www.turismo.gub.uy. A good site for general Uruguay information, as well as information on the tourism industry and some good links. This site is also available in English and Portuguese. Ministry of Transport and Public Works; website: www.mtop.gub.uy. This is a good site if youre interested in undertaking a public works project in Uruguay, and will help you learn the lay of the land. Ministry of Agriculture and Fishing; website: www.mgap.gub.uy. These guys need the help of a web designer, but there is a wealth of good information and current-issue coverage for those contemplating farming or commercial fishing in Uruguay. Office of the President of Uruguay; website: www.presidencia.gub.uy. This site is best for news items and for use as a portal to other government and business sites. Parliament; website: www.parlamento.gub.uy. Ive used this site a number of times to research the laws around importation and immigration. Ive found Uruguays practice of having their laws, proclamations, and parliamentary actions online to be very convenientand transparent.
Market research:
To view market research reports produced by the U.S. Commercial Service, take a look at www.export.gov/mrktresearch and click on Market Research Library. Please note that these reports are only available to students, researchers, and U.S. companies. Registration to the site is required, but free of charge.
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CHAPTER FOURTEEN
Commercial Property Guide
Many people who come to Uruguay are looking for more than a retirement home or a vacation getaway. Often, the commercial property market is where theyll focus their efforts. If youre thinking of ranching, farming, starting a resort business, or operating a hotel, restaurant, or B&B, you may be among them.
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del Diablo, one of the most sought after destinations in Uruguay. Price: $1,700,000. Contact info@inversionesuruguay.com for more information.
The complex is filled to capacity during the high season (January and February), with some traffic during holidays over the rest of the year. The asking price is $650,000which should be very negotiable. This would be a good way for an entrepreneur to support themselves in Uruguay. The property is listed by Pedro Gava, and you can contact info@pedrogava.com for more information.
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is a two-bedroom apartment, with a veranda, service quarters, and wood-fired barbecue. Price: $220,000. For more information contact Voila Inmobiliaria at: e-mail: voila@inmobiliaria.com.uy.
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about three blocks from the famous Port Market. The first floor has an apartment and a storefront that could be rented. Upstairs, theres another three-bedroom apartment (six bedrooms total). The total living space is just over 4,200 square feet. The house is in need of restoration, but its in an ideal location for capital appreciation, thanks to the new pedestrian walkway. Price: $190,000. For more information, contact Cecilia Campbell at campbell@realestate.com.ar.
Farming Uruguay
A company called Farming Uruguay provides expert professional services to clients seeking profitable agricultural investments in Uruguay. According to founder Daniel Confort, they offer investors complete packages of services, including investment tours and information, assistance in property acquisition, and professional farm management, as well as legal and accounting services. On his website, he has some interesting models showing costs and potential profits from farming operations. E-mail Daniel at farminguruguay@adinet.com.uy for more information, or see his website at www.Internet.com.uy/farmurug.
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CHAPTER FIFTEEN
Your Exploratory Visit
No matter how much reading, e-mailing or Internet research you do, theres no way to know if Uruguay is really for you unless you visit. This chapter will help you find your way around and enjoy yourself on the trip. Uruguay is not exactly close to the U.S.over nine hours from Miamiso Im always amazed at the constant stream of North American visitors that we have, and the number of expats who are moving here.
Getting to Uruguay
Non-stop flights to Montevideo
When coming to Montevideo (MVD), the easiest way is usually to book a non-stop flight from Miami. Its a nine-hour overnight flight, and youll arrive here much more relaxed than if you spend part of the night changing planes somewhere along the way. The only non-stops from the U.S. at this time are on American Airlines, although service to Montevideo has increased notably during the last four years. Americans schedule varies between winter and summer. Montevideo also has nonstops to Madrid via Iberia (which is a 12-hour flight) and Panama City, Panama via Copa/Continental (seven hours). Insider tip: If at all possible, avoid the connection in Buenos Aires, unless youre spending time there. Its a three-and-a-half hour layover when its on timeand its almost never on time.
If you are bringing an animal (thats not in the cabin with you) Id consider the non-stop mandatory. Dont take the chance that your pet will miss a connection in a third country, for which it does not have the paperwork to enter.
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If you are getting quotes for expensive airfares by booking one ticket from your home airport to Montevideo, try booking separate flights: one from home to Miami, and the other from Miami to Montevideo. This can sometimes be cheaper.
For example, if youre coming from New York, the non-stop to Santiago on Lan Chile (followed by a two-hour flight to Montevideo) is better than Americans flight with a long layover in Miami. Be careful, though, that this technique does not require you to stay overnight in the connecting citythat would cost more in the end, in both time and money. In my experience, if youre connecting, the connection in Panama City is the most reliable, if it works for you. The least reliable is Buenos Aires.
From Europe, try to connect in Madrid, with a non-stop to Montevideo. If you connect in Miami, you must enter the U.S. officially, just to make your flight connection. This requires you to retrieve your luggage and clear Customs and immigration, and that means photos and fingerprints if youre not a U.S. citizen. But even U.S. citizens like to avoid the delays, hassle, and notoriously rude behavior of Miami airport personnel.
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Consider first class. I often use the first-class ferry service to and from Buenos Aires. It costs a bit more, but its much niceralthough the trip is comfortable either way. I dont use the ferry often, so to me its worth the extra cost when I do. Be careful with your Argentina pesos. Its easy to confuse Uruguays currency with Argentinas if youve never seen either one, and the Argentine peso is worth much more. When you land in Uruguay, make sure you put your Argentine pesos away for another day. Allow time to clear Customs and immigration when leaving Argentina. The ferry in Buenos Aires is located in Puerto Madero, a beautifully restored waterfront section with great shops and one of the citys highest concentrations of fine restaurants. Try to allow yourself a couple of hours to enjoy some of the citys fine waterfront dining. The Buquebus website is www.buquebus.com if youd like more information, or would like to book in advance. Insider tip: Taking the ferry is not an efficient way to get to Uruguay from abroad, unless youre combining your Uruguay trip with a trip to Argentina. The Buenos Aires international airport is not close to the ferry dock, and its an expensive cab ride to get from one to the other. Also, you must clear immigration to enter Argentina and then clear it again to leave for Uruguay: an airport connection is much easier. But if youve spent a few days in Buenos Aires, the ferry is a great alternative to get to downtown Montevideo, Colonia, or points beyond. Remember, Argentina charges U.S. citizens a $140 entry fee if you pass through customs.
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Insider tip: When youre buying a ticket to return to Argentina for your international flight home, make sure the flight is to EZE instead of AEPit takes over an hour to get from one to the other on the shuttle.
Renting a car
You can rent a car with your current drivers license without an International Drivers License. If you do get an international license, get the Interamerican Drivers License rather than the International Drivers License. Both are available from AAA (www.aaa.com/vacation/idpapplc.html) or CAA (www.caa.ca/travel/travel-permits-e.cfm), for $15. For the price, I think getting one is a good idea, since it translates your license into a number of other languages. Chapter Fifteen: Your Exploratory Visit
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In general, youll find the roads are excellent and well marked, and you can move along at 70 mph on most of them. Many are maintained by a concession, and collect a toll every so often. Theres no better way to explore the country than renting a car and going on your own. Do not rent a car, though, if youre staying in Montevideo. The taxis are plentiful, they all use meters, and theyre inexpensive. A car will feel like a burden in the city. If youre seeing the country beyond Montevideo, Id suggest picking your rental car up on the way out of town when youre ready to be on your way.
Reservations
Be sure to have hotel reservations if youre traveling to the popular spots between December and March, or during Easter Week or the week prior to Lent (Carnaval). The rest of the year, reservations normally wont be necessary if youre a bit flexible about where you stay. Almost all hotels offer discounts for cash, and during the off-season.
Staying in touch
All town squares in Uruguay (and many plazas in Montevideo) are equipped with free public Wi-Fi. Also, several city bus lines in Montevideo and the interprovincial buses now have Wi-Fi. You can also obtain mobile broadband in Uruguay, and pay for it with a prepaid cardwithout a contract. Mobile broadband providers are Movistar (formerly Bell South), Claro, and Ancel. Internet cafs are plentiful and inexpensive, generally less than $1 per hour. Service is typically good. To make phone calls, youll find call centers located throughout the country. Antel, the national phone company, operates most of these. If youre here for a while and looking at properties, consider buying a cell phone so people can reach you easily. You can buy an inexpensive cell phone and obtain service in a matter of minutes. Also, getting local cell service on your existing cell phone is easy if your cell phone is unblockedand if its not unblocked, most cell phone shops can do it for you easily. Theres no charge for incoming cell calls.
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What to pack
The climate in Uruguay is like that of the Carolinas in the U.S. You can expect high temperatures up in the 80s and sometimes higher in the summer (December through February). Colonia (and the areas upriver from there) will be somewhat hotter than Montevideo and the coastal region. In the winter, youll have days that never get out of the 50s and other periods that will climb into the high 60s, with occasional blustery days. Rainfall is moderate and fairly consistent throughout the year. Accordingly, light, airy cottons and short sleeves are the order of the day in January, while a medium-weight jacket will be needed in June. Men in short pants (with sandals) are much more common in Uruguay than in the rest of Latin America, particularly on the coast. Women should dress like they would in the U.S. Dont forget to bring along a swimsuit for the summer months, and something dressy if youre going to the theater or orchestra in Montevideo. Youll also want to bring a good guidebook and a Spanish/English dictionary. If youd like an electronic pocket dictionary, the best Ive seen is made by Franklin Electronics (website: www.franklin.com). Its always advisable to make photocopies of your passport, prescriptions, and plane tickets. Keep a set with you, and leave a set with someone back home who can fax or e-mail them to you if you need them. And dont forget your sun screen. The atmospheres ozone layer is thin in this part of the world, and the ultraviolet rating on the ground is often off-scale, according to local weather forecasts. Sun screen is important here, especially if youre fair-skinned.
Suggested itineraries
Uruguay is a small country, and you can see a good portion of it even if you only have two weeks in which to do it. As youre planning your trip, remember that many real estate agents are closed on Saturday afternoon, and almost none are open on Sunday. The exception is Punta del Este, where the aggressive real estate business is almost a 24/7 operation.
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Many people see Piripolis while staying in Punta del Este, as theyre fairly close to each other.
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estate agents are few, but driving to them could take a while. If youre interested in ranch property, Id allow at least two additional full days. While youre in town, drive out to the Valle de Edn, and take in the museum dedicated to the worlds most famous tango singer, Carlos Gardel. The museum provides an interesting look at the life of Gardel, and displays a lot of documentary evidence to support the fact that Gardel was actually born here in Tacuaremba premise that is maintained by virtually all Uruguayans and disputed by the French and Argentines. If youre visiting in March, try to see the Gaucho festival, which will include a lot of exciting competitions much like an American rodeo. Also, the Museo del Indo y del Gaucho is worth a visit, and has collections of Native American and gaucho art, weapons, and implements.
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watched from a hill as a group of small boys idled home with their fishing poles and the days catch. With row after row of neat white houses, it was reminiscent of a rural, inland Caribbean setting. While youre in Fray Bentos Between Paysand and Fray Bentos lies San Javier, a Russian colony from 1913. It still has some Russian influence, including Russian writing on the street signs, and restaurants that serve Russian dishes. Youll pass miles and miles of sunflowers on your way to town, and see the original old sunflower oil mill used by the Russian immigrants, who first introduced the idea of growing sunflowers for oil. Barrio Anglo lies just outside of Fray Bentos and is a National Historic Site. This is where the industrial revolution began in Uruguay, and is the site of the first electrical power plant. An English entrepreneur founded Barrio Anglo.
Enjoy Uruguay!
I hope you enjoy your trip to Uruguay, and Im sure youll find something here that feels just right. Maybe youll prefer the Old-World ambiance of Montevideo or the colonial charm of Colonia del Sacramento. You might feel at home on the vast stretches of ranch land near Tacuaremb, or perhaps youre the type who enjoys the beaches of Punta del Esteor the vast, lonely sands of Barra de Valizas. Regardless of what youre looking for in a new life abroad, be it a new residence or a place to escape the North American winters, youll find that theres truly something in Uruguay for you.
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APPENDIX A
The Uruguay Rolodex
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APPENDIX A
The Uruguay Rolodex
The contacts in this directory are organized by categories. The categories are then sub-divided into regionsthe same regions used throughout the book. Heres an index to help you find your way around. Contacts list Table of contents
Category Attorneys/Escribanos Business and Investment Embassies and Consulates Health care Immigration International movers Language schools Page 208 209 209 211 212 213 214 Category Real estate agents Relocation specialists Tourism contacts Translators (Certified Public) Veterinarians Additional resources Page 214 219 219 221 222 222
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Attorneys/Escribanos
Montevideo Juan Federico Fischer, Managing Partner, Fischer and Schickendantz, Rincn 487, 4th floor, Montevideo 11000, Uruguay; tel +598 2915-7468 ext. 130; cell +598 9992-5106; fax +598 2916-1352; e-mail: jfischer@fs.com.uy; website www.fs.com.uy. Juan, a lawyer and MBA, is U.S.-educated and lived in the U.S. for 12 years. He leads a team of bilingual attorneys, escribanos (notaries), and tax advisors covering all of Uruguay. Hughes y Hughes Abogados, 25 de Mayo 455, 4o piso, Montevideo; tel. +598 2916-0988; e-mail: h&h@hughes.com.uy; website: www.hughes.com.uy. Federico Prez del Castillo (attorney and escribano), Plaza Independencia 1376, 1st floor, Montevideo; tel. +598 2908-2274; fax +598 2902-5666; e-mail: fperezdelcastillo@perezdelcastillo.com; website: www.perezdelcastillo.com. Punta del Este Doris L. Hernndez P., Certified Public Translator and escribana, Salt Lake, casi Mar de Coral, Chalet Siete Mares, Punta del Este; tel. +598 4225-0380; cell +598 (99) 190-201; e-mail: DorisHer@gmail.com
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Alexandra Fernndez, Attorney and escribana, Av Gorlero and R. Prez del Puerto, Punta del Este; tel. +598 4244-1468; e-mail: fernandezarosteguy@adinet.com.uy. Gabriela Fernndez, Attorney and escribana, Av Gorlero and R. Prez del Puerto, Punta del Este; tel. +598 4244-1468; e-mail: fernandezarosteguy@adinet.com.uy. Nathalie Polak, Fischer & Schickendantz; e-mail: info@fs.com.uy; website: www.fs.com.uy. Colonia Ana La Mendez, Fischer & Schickendantz; e-mail: info@fs.com.uy; website: www.fs.com.uy.
New Zealand
United Kingdom
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United States
Embassy of Uruguay in the U.S., 1913 I Street, NW, Washington, DC 20006; tel. (202) 331-1313; fax (202) 331-8142; e-mail: uruwashi@uruwashi.org; website: www.mrree.gub.uy/gxpsites/hgxpp001?7,7,442,O,E,0,MNU. Consulate of New York, 420 Madison Ave., 6th Floor, New York, New York 10017; tel. (212) 753-8191/8192; fax (212) 753-1603; e-mail: conuruyork@conuruyork.org. Consulate of Miami, 1077 Pone de Leon Blvd., Coral Gabels, Florida 33134; tel. (305) 443-9764/7453; fax (305) 443-7802; e-mail: conurumia@bellsouth.net. Consulate of Chicago, 875 N. Michigan Ave., Suite 1422, Chicago, Illinois 60611; tel. (312) 642-3430; fax (312) 642-3470; e-mail: conuruchi@aol.com; website: www.uruguaychicago.org. Consulate of Los Angeles, 429 Santa Monica Blvd. # 400, Santa Monica, California 90401; tel. (310) 394-5777; fax (310) 394-5140; e-mail: consulado@conurula.org. Consulate of Washington, DC, 1913 I St., NW, Washington, DC 20006; tel. (202) 331-4219; fax (202) 331-8645; e-mail: consuluy@erols.com and conuruwashi@uruwashi.org. Consulate of San Juan, Puerto Rico, Calle Luna 159, Viejo, San Juan, San Juan, Puerto Rico 00901; tel. (787) 723-2006/2026; fax (787) 723-2035; e-mail: walla@mrree.gub.uy.
There are a number of honorary consuls around the U.S., and to varying degrees, they may be able to take care of some consular issues for you. Inquire at your nearest consulate to see if there is a post near you, it may save you a long trip to the nearest official consulate. Foreign Embassies in Uruguay Embassy of Canada, Independencia 749, Office 102, Montevideo; tel. +598 2900-6023 or +598 2902-2030; fax +598 2902-2029; website: www.canadainternational.gc.ca/uruguay. Embassy of Malta, Plaza Cagancha 1129, Montevideo; tel. +598 2908-9829; fax +598 2909-0012; e-mail: embajada@ordendemaltauruguay.org.uy. Embassy of South Africa, Echevarriarza 1335, Montevideo; tel. +598 2623-0161; fax +598 2623-0066; e-mail: safem@netgate.com.uy.
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Embassy of United Kingdom, Marco Bruto 1063, Montevideo; tel. +598 2622-3630; website: ukinuruguay.fco.gov.uk. Embassy of the U.S., Lauro Muller 1776, Montevideo; tel. +598 21770-2000; fax +598 2418- 8611; e-mail: http://montevideo.usembassy.gov; website: http://uruguay.usembassy.gov/contact.html.
Health care
Montevideo Hospital Britanico, Avenida Italia 2420, Montevideo; tel. +598 2487-1020; e-mail: info@hospitalbritanico.org.uy; website: www.hospitalbritanico.com.uy. Asociacin Espaola (or La Espaola), Blvr. Artigas 1465, Montevideo; tel. dial 1920 from within Montevideo, 2-1920 from outside Montevideo. From outside Uruguay, contact them via their website: www.asesp.com.uy. This hospital is an example of one who accepts applicants over the age of 60. Hospital Evangelico, Blvr. Battle y Ordonez 2759, Montevideo; tel. +598 2487-2319. Hospital Militar, Avenida 8 de Ocubre 3020, Montevideo; tel. +598 2487-6666. Medica Uruguaya, Avenida 8 de Octubre 2492, Montevideo; tel. +598 2487-0525; e-mail: info@medicauruguaya.uy; website: www.medicauruguaya.com.uy. Sanatorio Americano, Isabelino Bosch 2466, Montevideo; tel. +598 2708-6041; website: www.americano.com.uy. Sanatorio Impasa, L.A. de Herrera 2275, Montevideo; tel. +598 2487-1016. Ambulance services: Ciudad de la Costa For ambulance service in Montevideo, dial 911. Hospital Evangelico, Ciudad de la Costa, Aenida Gianattazio, Km 21 200, Esquina Rio Uruguay y Lagomar; tel. +598 2682-6965 or +598 2682-4248; website: www.hospitalevangelico.com/filial_ciudad_de_la_costa.asp. Policlinica del Ministerio de Salud Publica, Parque del Plata; tel. +598 4375-5080. Policlinica del Ministerio de Salud Publica, La Floresta; tel. +598 4373-9617.
Costa de Oro
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Piripolis
Cardiomovil, Av. Roosevelt y Acua de Figueroa, Piripolis; tel. +598 4222-8778; website: www.cardiomovil.com.uy. Mautone, Av. Roosevelt y Honduras, Maldonado; tel. +598 4222-5474; website: www.semm-mautone.com.uy.
Cardiomovil, Punta del Este; tel. (emergencies) +598 4222-9000; website: www.cardiomovil.com.uy. Mautone, Av. Roosevelt y Honduras, Maldonado; tel. +598 4222-5474; website: www.semm-mautone.com.uy. La Asistencial, Cantegril, Av. Roosevelt Parada 13, Punta del Este; tel. +598 4248-9151; website: http://laasistencial.wordpress.com. Dr. Claudia W. Difiuri de Falcioni (dentist), Calle Gorlero y 31, Edificio Sagasti #302, Punta del Este; tel. +598 4244-4646; cell +598 9444-2307; e-mail: difiuri@movinet.com.uy; website: www.clinicadifiuri-falcioni.com.
Colonia
Hospital Evanglico, Daniel Fosalba 366, Colonia; tel. +598 4522-5024; website: www.hospitalevangelico.com/filial_colonia_del_sacramento.asp. Hospital Pblico Colonia, 18 de Julio 462, Colonia; tel. +598 4522-2994 or +598 4522-2945.
Mercedes
Hospital Dr. Zoilo A. Chellie, Sanchez 204, Mercedes; tel. +598 4532-2177. Hospital Pblico de Treinta y Tres, J. E. Rodo 1381, Treinta Y Tres; tel. +598 4452-2002.
Treinta y Tres
Immigration contacts
Direccin Nacional de Migracin (Montevideo), 1513 Misiones, Ciudad Vieja, Montevideo; tel. +598 2916-0471; website: www.dnm.minterior.gub.uy. Oficina de Migracin, Punta del Este (Maldonado), Ventura Alegre 727 y Sarand, Maldonado; tel. +598 4223-7066.
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Oficina de Migracin, Carmelo, Constituyentes y Carmen, Carmelo; tel. +598 4542-2433 or +598 4542-2461. Oficina de Migracin, Fray Bentos, Zorrilla y Sarandi, Fray Bentos; tel. +598 4562-2302. Oficina de Migracin, Salto, Artigas 450, Salto; tel. +598 4733-2860. Direccin Nacional de Identificacin Civil (DNIC), Rincn 665, Montevideo; tel. +598 2916-1535, ext. 37; website: www.uruguay.gub.uy/dnic. Colegio de Traductores Pblicos del Uruguay (Public Translators of Uruguay), Colonia 892, Montevideo; tel. +598 2903-3130; website: www.colegiotraductores.org.uy. This is a national listing of Certified Public Translators. Interpol Office, Direccin Nacional de Informacin e Inteligencia, Maldonado 1109, corner Paraguay, Montevideo; tel. +598 2903-1007; website: www.interpol.int. Ministerio de Relaciones Exteriores (Foreign Relations Ministry), Colonia 1206, Montevideo; tel. +598 2902-1010; website: www.mrree.gub.uy. Direccin General del Registro del Estado Civil, Registro de Extranjeros (Registry of Foreigners),Calle Uruguay 933, corner Rio Branco, Montevideo; tel. +598 2901-6114 or +598 2903-1376. Ministerio de Salud Pblica (Department of Public Health), Divisin de Clnicas Preventivas Durazno 1242 and Carlos Quijano, Montevideo; tel. +598 2900-2951 or +598 2902-9000 or +598 2901-7891. SUAT Centro Diagnostico (Carne de Salud), Clinica del Estadio, Estadio Centenario, Tribuna America, Montevideo; tel. +598 2487-7047.
International movers
Mara Estela Campos, Autogiro. Pozos del Rey 1379, Montevideo; tel. +598 2924-1577, e-mail: info@autogiro.com.uy, website: www.autogiro.com.uy. In my experience here in Uruguay, this company is the most-responsive and professional. Theyd be my first choice for an international mover in Uruguay. Martin Barrandeguy, International Moving Business S.A. -Mudanzas Intermove, Flix Olmedo 3568, 11700 Montevideo; tel. +598 2309-7877; fax +598 2309-7893; e-mail: trafico@imb.com.uy or sales@imb.com.uy; website: www.imb.com.uy.
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Language schools
REA Escuela de Espaol, Calle de San Jose 140, Centro Histrico, Colonia del Sacramento; tel. +598 (95) 473-837 and (786) 272-9426 (in the U.S.); e-mail: info@areaene.com. Berlitz Plaza Independencia, Plaza Independencia 1380 bis, Montevideo; tel. +598 2901-5535; website: www.berlitz.com.uy/spanish_uy.htm#0. Berlitz Bulevar Artiga, Bulevar Artigas 1263, Montevideo; tel. +598 2403-0121; website: www.berlitz.com.uy/spanish_uy.htm#0. La Herradura Centro de Enseanza Espaol, Joaqun de Salteran 1240, Montevideo; tel. +598 2409-7894; e-mail: info@spanish-herradura.com; website: www.spanish-herradura.com.
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Cecilia Campbell, Reynolds Propiedades & Relocation, 25 de Mayo 247, Office 101, Ciudad Vieja, Montevideo; tel. +598 2915-7926; cell +598 9960-4856; e-mail: www.pathfinderinternational.net/ContactUs/montevideo/; website: www.ReynoldsPropiedades.com. Praino Propiedades, Cdiz 3076, Montevideo; tel. +598 2480-8305; e-mail: praino@inmobilliaria.com.uy . Prandi Grupo Inmobiliario, Nicaragua 1404, Montevideo; tel. +598 2924-2610; e-mail: www.pathfinderinternational.net/ContactUs/prandi; website; www.grupoprandi.com. Silvana Corsato Inmobiliaria, Osorio 1154, Montevideo; tel. +598 2622-5959; e-mail: info@crosato.com.uy; website: www.crosato.com.uy. Tesouro Negocios Inmobiliariaos, Rambla Repblica del Per 1125, Pocitos, Montevideo; tel. +598 2707 29-65; e-mail: info@tesouro.com.uy; website: www.tesouro.com.uy. Ciudad de la Costa Costacasas Propiedades, Santiago Gadea N 3162 esq. Av. Dr.Navarro, Parque Batlle, Montevideo; tel. +598 2487 3284; e-mail: info@costacasas.com.uy; website: www.costacasas.com.uy. Inmobiliaria Espacio, Centro, Mondevideo; tel. +598 2211 5279; e-mail: info@espacioni.com; website: www.inmoespacio.com. Inmobiliaria Varela, Giannatassio Km. 23.500, Solymar Sur; tel. +598 2696-1762; e-mail: solymar@sigaloavarela.com; website: www.sigaloavarela.com. Costa de Oro D&L Propiedades, Washington Beltrn 1780 ap. 1001, Montevideo; tel. +598 2480-6765; e-mail: dyl@inmobiliaria.com.uy; website: www.dlpropiedades.com.uy. Inmobiliaria Julietta, Avenida Julieta, Salinas; tel. +598 4376-2400; e-mail: julieta@inmobiliaria.com.uy; website: http://julietainmobiliaria.com. Moreno Inmobiliaria, Rambla del Arroyo y Calle D, Parque del Plata; tel. +598 4375-5385 or +598 4375-2037; e-mail: estudiomoreno@adinet.com.uy; website: www.inmobiliariamoreno.com. Praga Negocios Inmobiliarios, Los Ruiseores Km 26 A 150 Mts De Giannattasio, Lomas Solymar 1, Cd. De La Costa; tel. +598 2269-65302; e-mail: praga@inmobiliaria.com.uy; website: www.praga.com.uy.
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Voila Inmobiliaria, Avda. Ferreira entre Calle 12 y 13, Parque del Plata; tel. +598 4375-2302 or +598 4375-6023; cell +598 9962-0603; fax +598 4375-2302; e-mail: voila@inmobiliaria.com.uy; website: www.voila.inmobiliaria.com.uy. Piripolis Alberto Prandi, Avenida Italia y Chiverta, Parada 3, Aidy Gris, Punta del Este; e-mail: www.pathfinderinternational.net/ContactUs/prandi/; website: www.albertoprandi.com. Alda Propiedades, Av. Central y Calle 7, Punta Colorada; tel. +598 4432-7764; e-mail: alda@alda.com.uy; website: www.alda.com.uy. Gonzles Propiedades, Atanasio Sierra 892, Centro, Piriapolis; tel. +598 4432-4530; e-mail: piriapolis@gonzalezpropiedades.com.uy; website: www.gonzalezpropiedades.com.uy. Inmobiliaria Miramar, Rambla de los Argentinos 1124, Centro, Piripolis; tel. +598 4432-2615; e-mail: info@miramar.com.uy; website: www.miramar.com.uy. Los Angeles Inmobiliaria, Rambla de los Argentinos esq. Ellauri, Los ngeles, Piripolis; tel. +598 4432-0834; e-mail: losangeles@inmobiliaria.com.uy; website: www.losangeles.inmobiliaria.com.uy. Antonio Mieres (Playa Chihuahua); e-mail: info@antoniomieres.com.uy; website: www.antoniomieres.com.uy. Punta del Este La Barra Abasolo Inmobiliaria, Pda 24 1/2-Pinares-Maldonado, Pennsula, Punta del Este; tel. +598 4244-8163; e-mail: info@abasolo.com.uy; website: www.abasolo.com.uy. Agua Clara Propiedades, Av. Uruguay S8 M11, Solymar Sur, Cd. De La Costa; tel. +598 2695-9671; e-mail: aguaclara@inmobiliaria.com.uy. Alberto Prandi, Avenida Italia y Chiverta, Parada 3, Aidy Gris, Punta del Este; e-mail: www.pathfinderinternational.net/ContactUs/prandi/; website: www.albertoprandi.com. Buen Ayre Inmobiliaria, Av. Gorlero 683, Punta del Este; tel. +598 4244-0111; e-mail: info@buenayre.com.uy; website: www.buenayre.com.uy. Gerones Inmobiliaria, Rambla Lorenzo Battle Pacheco Parada 1, Edificio Mare Nostrum Local 002 Punta del Este; tel. +598 4249-3247; e-mail: gerones@inmobiliaria.com.uy; website: www.geronesinmobiliaria.com.uy.
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Iavecchia Propiedades, Rbla. Claudio Williman y Avda. Espaa - Parada 25, Punta del Este; tel. +598 4223-5278; e-mail: info@iavecchia.com; website: http://iavecchia.com. Mieres Realty, Gorlero esq. Calle 29 Local 005, Punta del Este; tel. +598 4244-8516; e-mail: punta@antoniomieres.com.uy; website: www.antoniomieres.com.uy. Puntamar Inmobiliaria, Edificio Gramado, Calle 29 between Gorlero & Calle 20, Punta del Este; tel. +598 4244-5302; cell +598 9981-1404; e-mail: info@puntamar.com; website: www.puntamar.com. Sudamerica Propiedades, Pennsula, Punta del Este; tel. +598 9427-6239; e-mail: info@sudamerica.com.uy; website: www.sudamerica.com.uy. Voila Inmobiliaria, Calle 24 between 19 & 21, local 006, Peninsula; tel. +598 4244-9794; e-mail: voila@inmobiliaria.com.uy; website: www.voila.inmobiliaria.com.uy. Jos Ignacio Alejandro Perazzo, Calle Saiz Martinez y Los Cisnes, Jos Ignacio; tel. +598 4486-2627 or +598 44862-868; e-mail: joseignacio@alejadroperazzo.com; website: www.alejandroperazzo.com. Inmobiliaria Club del Mar, Calles 25 y 26, Pennsula, Punta del Este; tel. +598 4244-5270; e-mail: info@clubdelmar.com.uy; website: www.clubdelmar.com.uy. Uruguay Property Partnership (Margret Holzer de Baez), Chalet Valle Arriba, Parada 36, Octante y Sagitario, Punta del Este, Uruguay; tel. +598 4222-8371; cell +598 9938-1172; e-mail: info@uruguayproperty.com; website: www.uruguayproperty.com. Rocha: La Paloma, La Pedrera, and Barra de Valizas Alberto Prandi, Avenida Italia y Chiverta, Parada 3, Aidy Gris, Punta del Este; e-mail: www.pathfinderinternational.net/ContactUs/prandi/; website: www.albertoprandi.com. Puntoro Propiedades, Avenida Solari, CP 27001, La Paloma; tel. +598 4479-8529; cell +598 9987-2555; e-mail: info@puntorio.com.uy; website: www.PuntoRio.com. Uruguay Properties.com, Avda. Rivera N 6666, Montevideo; tel. +598 2601-8531; e-mail: info@uruguayproperties.com.uy; website: www.uruguayproperties.com.uy.
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Voila Inmobiliaria, Calle 24 between 19 & 21, local 006, Peninsula; tel. +598 4244-9794; e-mail: voila@inmobiliaria.com.uy; website: www.voila.inmobiliaria.com.uy.
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Carmelo
Inmobiliaria Gabriel Conde, 19 de Abril 235, Carmelo; tel. +598 4542-3451; cell +598 9954-2674; e-mail: info@gabrielconde.com; website: www.gabrielconde.com. Inmobiliaria Buzo & Cia, 18 de julio 1073, Fray Bentos; tel. +598 4562-2413; e-mail: buzo&cia@gmail.com; website: www.inmobiliariabuzoycia.com.uy. Inmobiliaria Paysandu, 18 de Julio 938, Paysand; tel. +598 4722-5747; e-mail: ipp@adinet.com.uy; website: www.inmobiliariapaysandu.com. Inmobiliaria Cnepa y Cnepa, Uruguay 1501, Salto; e-mail: SaltoVentas@canepa.com.uy; website: www.canepa.com.uy. For consulting on ranches or land: Joaquin Silva Gallino, tel. +598 9973-5945; e-mail: campos@canepa.com.uy.
Fray Bentos
Paysand
Salto
Relocation specialists
CCM Soluciones (Andrea Cavallo), Dr. Manuel Albo 2741/207, Montevideo; tel. +598 2712-7086; e-mail: andrea.cavallo@ccmsoluciones.com or ccmsoluciones@ccmsoluciones.com; website: www.ccmsoluciones.com. If youre relocating to Uruguay, youll likely be interested in the services of CCM Soluciones, especially if you dont speak Spanish. They are a relocation assistance company, who can help you with any settling-in chores that youre facing, from hooking up your phone, to getting your drivers license, to finding an elementary school for the kids.
Tourism contacts
Montevideo Centro de Informes Ministerio de Turismo, Colonia 1021, (street level), Montevideo; tel. +598 2908-9105, ext. 130. Centro de Informes Ministerio de Turismo, Local T.12A, Tres Cruces Bus Terminal, Montevideo; tel. +598 2409-7399. Modulo de informacin al Turista, 18 de Julio y Calle Ejido, Montevideo; tel. +598 2903-0649.
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Uruguayan Chamber of Tourism, Martin C. Martinez 1865, Montevideo; tel. +598 2401-6013. Ciudad de la Costa Tourist Information, Aeropuerto Internacional de Carrasco; tel. +598 2604-0271 or +598 2604-0329. Minister of Turism Office, Km. 155, ruta 11, Atlntida Country Club, Atlntida; tel. +598 4372-2082. Tourist Information Office, Calles Roger Ballet y Calle 18, Atlntida; tel. +598 4372-3104. Piripolis Asociacin de Turismo, Rambla de los Argentinos, Piripolis; tel. +598 4432-2560. Bus Terminal of Maldonado, Sarandi y Avenida Roosevelt, Maldonado; tel. +598 4225-0490. Information Center, Minister of Tourism, Gorlero 936, entre Calle 29 y 30, Punta del Este; tel. +598 4244-1218. Parada 24, Las Delicias, Rambla C, Williman; tel. +598 4223-0050. Plaza Artigas, Avenida Gorlero y Calle 25, Punta del Este; tel. +598 4222-6519. Jos Ignacio Tourist Information, Plaza de Jose Ignacio; Mon.-Sun. 8 a.m. to midnight (high season) Liga de Fomento y Turismo La Paloma, Ruta 15, Km. 0, La Paloma; tel. +598 4479-6088. Oficina de Turismo, Artigas 209, Plaza Independencia, Mercedes; tel. +598 4532-2733.
Costa de Oro
Rocha
Mercedes
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Oficina de Turismo, Mercedes Terminal Shopping Mall, Don Bosco 734 y Plaza General Artigas, Mercedes; tel. +598 4532-2733. Minas, Villa Serrana Treinta y Tres Oficina de Turismo, Batlle 465, Minas; tel. +598 4442-9796. Oficina de Turismo, Zoologico Municipal, Leonardo Olivera y Lavalleja, Treinta y Tres. Informacion Turistica, Manuel de Lobo, Barrio Histrico, Colonia; tel. +598 4552-8506. Oficina de Turismo, Avenida General Flores Y Rivera, Colonia; tel. +598 4552-6141 or +598 4552-3700. Fray Bentos Oficina de Turismo, 18 de Julio, Fray Bentos; tel. +598 4562-2233, ext. 138. Oficina Municipal de Turismo, Avenida Treinta y Tres Orientales y Rincn, Museo Solari, Fray Bentos; tel. +598 4562-2233. Paysand Oficina de Turismo, 18 de Julio 1226, Paysand; tel. +598 4722-6220. Information Center, Minister of Turism, International Bridge General Artigas, Paysand; tel. +598 4722-7574. Salto Oficina de Turismo, Uruguay 1052, Salto; tel. +598 4733-4096. Information Center, Minister of Tourism, International Bridge, Salto; tel. +598 4732-8933.
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Veterinarians
Maldonado Clinica Veterinaria Sienra, Dr. Luis Enrique Sienra. Roman Guerra 721, Maldonado; tel. +598 4223-1258; e-mail: LSienra@adinet.com.uy. Veterinaria San Martin, Dr. Diego San Martin, Dra Anna Raymondo, 3 de Febrero 646 and Rincon; tel. +598 4222-5995; e-mail: diesan@movinet.com.uy. Montevideo Veterinaria De Boni, Carlos Quijano 1173, Centro, Montevideo; tel. +598 2908-3985.
Additional resources
Here are some other references that I have found particularly useful when learning about Uruguay. CIA World Factbook For general facts and information on Uruguay including economic stats, history, flag description, and population, see https://www.cia.gov/library/ publications/the-world-factbook/geos/uy.html. The Southrons Guide to Living in Uruguay, by R. David Finzer I consider this book absolutely indispensible for anyone who is seriously considering moving to Uruguay. Its loaded with practical information and real facts about what its like to live here as a resident. And even if you werent moving to Uruguay, youd enjoy this authors brilliant, refreshing style, humor, and straightforward approach. Its good reading. Its available on www.Amazon.com. Uruguayan National Statistics Institute (Instituto Nacional de Estadisticas): www.ine.gub.uy. The Uruguayan government maintains this site to display the official national statistics. It includes everything from rainfall to unemployment numbers. Its in Spanish only. Uruguay Total: www.uruguaytotal.com. This Spanish-language website has a huge directory of contacts and information. Its organized by topic and easy to use.
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Uruguayan Embassy, Washington, DC: www.uruwashi.org. This official website is a good source for Uruguayan news and government information. Some parts of the site are available in English. UruguayUruguay.com: www.uruguayuruguay.com. Again, this English-language site has a lot of nooks and cranies where you can spend a few hours. It offers flags and maps, cultural tips, and info on everything from climate to football. Uruguayinvest: www.uruguayinvest.com. This website has comprehensive information on doing business in or from Uruguay, plus, three very practical guides that you can download, on immigration, taxes, and purchasing real estate.
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APPENDIX B
Three Unique Spanish Verb Inections
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APPENDIX B
Three Unique Spanish Verb Inections
The most peculiar oddity in Uruguayan Spanish that Ive found is the conjugation of the second person singular (e.g., you have), the imperative (Stop!) and the subjunctive (not used in English). This is sometimes labeled the Voceo form of Spanish, but since Voceo has three major varieties with loads of variations within each, the term in itself is grammatically meaningless. With the second-person singular, the inflection is formed by taking the infinitive, dropping the final r, and adding an s with the accent on the last syllable. Verb To have To stop To come To want Infinitive tener parar venir querer Uruguayanpreferred t tens t pars t vens t quers Instead of this form t tienes t paras t vienes t quieres
But heres an important exception: Verb To be Infinitive Ser Uruguayanpreferred t sos Instead of this form t eres
Heres how the imperative works. Its almost the same as the second person singular above, but without the s at the end. Verb Stop! Come! Infinitive parar venir Uruguayanpreferred par ven Instead of this form para venga
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And to wrap things up, theres also a minor modification to the present subjunctive form. Its just like the standard subjunctive, except with an accent on the last syllable. Verb To speak To request Infinitive hablar pedir Uruguayanpreferred que t habls que t pids Instead of this form que t hables que t pidas
And of course, there will be exceptions. As I mentioned in Chapter Two, dont worry about using these until youre comfortable with themyoull be understood. But in the meantime, understanding how they work will help you to comprehend the spoken Spanish in Uruguay.
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APPENDIX C
Maps of Uruguay
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