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\pard\li466\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18
\cf0\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-213\slmul
t0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-2
13\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-640\slmult0 \fs46\cf0\f0\charscalex10
0 {Healthy Hair: What Is it?}\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-333\slmult0 \fs22\cf0\f0\cha
rscalex100 {Rodney D. Sinclair}{\super \fs14\up4\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {1}}\par\p
ard\li466\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-360\slmult0 \fs20\c
f0\f0\charscalex100 {Shiny hair with a smooth texture and clean-cut ends or tape
red tips is generally perceived to be healthy. Hair}\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-240\s
lmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {texture and shine relate to hair surface prop
erties, whereas the integrity of hair ends relates to the hair cortex.}\par\pard
\li466\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Hair can be straight, wavy
or curly, blonde, black, brown, red, gray white, and its natural variations are
important}\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {to our
identity. Manipulation of the normal structure of the hair shaft is epidemic an
d dictated by culture,}\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscale
x100 {fashion, and above all, celebrity. Although cosmetic procedures are intrin
sically safe, there is potential for}\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf
0\f0\charscalex100 {damage to the hair. Loss of lustre, frizz, split ends, and o
ther hair problems are particularly prevalent among}\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-240\s
lmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {people who repeatedly alter the natural style
of their hair or among people with hair that is intrinsically weak.}\par\pard\l
i466\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {This may be due to individua
l or racial variation or less commonly an inherited structural abnormality in ha
ir}\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {fiber formatio
n. Hair health is also affected by common afflictions of the scalp as well as ag
e-related phenomena}\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex10
0 {such as graying and androgenetic alopecia. Hair products that improve the str
uctural integrity of hair fibers and}\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs18\cf
0\f0\charscalex100 {increase tensile strength are available, as are products tha
t increase hair volume, reduce frizz, improve hair}\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-240\sl
mult0 \fs20\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {manageability, and stimulate new hair growth.}
\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-293\slmult0 \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Journal of Invest
igative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings}{ }\fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {(2007)}
{ }\fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {12,}{ }\fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {2\uc1\u8211X5.
doi:10.1038/sj.jidsymp.5650046}\par\pard\sect\sectd\sbknone\cols2\colno1\colw57
06\colsr-0\colno2\colw5653\pard\li466\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li46
6\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-306\slmult0 \fs18\cf1\f0\ch
arscalex100 {INTRODUCTION}\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charsc
alex100 {This review aims to help the clinician to understand the}\par\pard\li46
6\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {complex interplay between the v
arious medical and bio-}\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscal
ex100 {logical factors, scalp care habits, hair care procedures and}\par\pard\li
466\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {environmental factors to hair
health.}\par\pard\li706\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Hair is
an important component of body image. It is one of}\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-226\sl
mult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {few physical characteristics we can change and
manipulate}\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {to th
e dictates of culture and fashion. Hair cosmetics are}\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-226
\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {widely used to alter the physical and mecha
nical properties}\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {
of hair, which are dependent on internal structural organiza-}\par\pard\li466\ri

0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {tion and protein constituents.}\par

\pard\li466\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs18
\cf1\f0\charscalex100 {HAIR STRUCTURE}\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\c
f0\f0\charscalex100 {Hair consists of an outer hydrophobic lipid epicuticle, a l
ayer}\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {of flattened
overlapping cuticle cells surrounding the}\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \f
s16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {elongated polyhedral cortical cells. The normal cuticl
e has}\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {a smooth ap
pearance, allowing light reflection and limiting}\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-226\slmu
lt0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {friction between the hair shafts It is responsib
le for the lustre}\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100
{and texture of the hair. (Draelos, 1991) The cuticle may be}\par\pard\li466\ri0
\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {damaged by frictional forces like br
ushing. The cortical cells}\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\chars
calex100 {surround an optional and often discontinuous central}\par\pard\li466\r
i0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {medulla. The cortical layer determ
ines many of the mechani-}\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charsc
alex100 {cal properties of the hair. The surface of the hair is covered in}\par\
pard\li466\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {a covalently bound, mo
nomolecular layer of a unique,}\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\c
harscalex100 {branched, fatty acid \uc1\u8211X 18-methyl eicosanoic acid (Figure
1).}\par\pard\li706\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {The cortex c
onsists of closely packed spindle-shaped}\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs1
6\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {cortical cells filled with keratin filaments that are or
ientated}\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {parallel
to the longitudinal axis of the hair shaft (Dawber and}\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-2
26\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Messenger, 1997), and an amorphous matrix
of high sulfur}\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {p
roteins (Dawber, 1996). The intermediate filament hair}\par\column\pard\li0\ri0\
sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\
ri0\sl-306\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {keratins (40\uc1\u8211X60 kDa), c
omprising 400\uc1\u8211X500 amino-acid resi-}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \f
s18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {dues in heptad sequence repeats, form hard keratin pol
ypep-}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {tide chains w
hich pair together to form protofilaments}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18
\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {(Dawber and Messenger, 1997). The keratin chains have a}\
par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {large number of sulf
ur-containing cysteine residues. Cysteine}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs18
\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {residues in adjacent keratin filaments form covalent disu
lfide}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {bonds forming
a strong crosslink between adjacent keratin}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \f
s18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {chains. (Feughelman, 1977) The disulfide bonds contrib
ute}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {much to the sha
pe, stability, and texture of the hair. These}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \
fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {disulfide bonds remain intact when the hair is wet al
lowing}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {the hair to
resume its original shape. Other weaker bonds link}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmu
lt0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {the keratin polypeptide chains together such as
Van der Waal}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {intera
ctions, hydrogen bonds, and Coulombic interactions}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmu
lt0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {known as salt links. (Feughelman, 1977) These we
aker bonds}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {can be o
vercome with water.}\par\pard\li240\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex10
0 {Combinining the outer, intensely hydrophobic layer and}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-2
26\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {the cortex confer the physical properties
of lustre (shine) and}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex1
00 {volume (body) so essential for the appearance of \uc1\u8216X\uc1\u8216Xhealt
h\uc1\u8217X\uc1\u8217X}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex
100 {(Figure 2).}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl253\slmult0 \fs18\cf1\f0\charscalex100 {HAIR PHYSICAL PROPERTIES}\par\pard\li0\r

i0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {When wet, hair can be stretched by

30% of their original}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex1
00 {length without damage; however, irreversible changes occur}\par\pard\li0\ri0
\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {when hair is stretched between 30 an
d 70%. Stretching to}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100
{80% causes fracture (Dawber and Messenger, 1997).}\par\pard\li240\ri0\sl-226\s
lmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Hair is porous: damaged hair is intensely so.
Water}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {absorption c
auses hair shaft swelling. And when soaked in}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \
fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {water hair weight increases by 12\uc1\u8211X18%. Wett
ing and}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {subsequent
drying in a predetermined position are basic to}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0
\fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {hair styling. Wet hair has higher combing friction
than dry}\par\pard\sect\sectd\sbknone\pard\li466\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\pa
r\pard\li466\ri0\sl-346\slmult0 \fs10\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {1}\fs14\cf0\f0\chars
calex100 {Department of Dermatology St Vincent\uc1\u8217Xs Hospital, The Skin an
d Cancer Foundation of Victoria and The University of Melbourne, Victoria, Austr
alia}\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Corresponden
ce: Professor Rodney D. Sinclair, Department of Dermatology, St Vincent\uc1\u821
7Xs Hospital, Victoria, 3065, Australia.}\par\pard\li466\ri0\sl-173\slmult0 \fs1
4\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {E-mail: sinclair@svhm.org.au}\par\pard\sect\sectd\sbknon
e\cols2\colno1\colw7413\colsr-0\colno2\colw3946\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs1
8\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-333\slmult0 \*\tx440\fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {2}\tab
\fs16\cf1\f0\charscalex100 {Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proc
eedings (2007), Volume 12}\par\column\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\
pard\li0\ri0\sl-333\slmult0 \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {&}{ }\fs14\cf0\f0\charsc
alex100 {2007 The Society for Investigative Dermatology}\par\pard\sect\sectd\sbk
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}}}}\pgwsxn11880\pghsxn15653\marglsxn666\margrsxn80\margtsxn346\margbsxn80\cols2
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\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \

fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\s
lmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\
sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li
186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par
\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18
\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmul
t0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-2
13\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\
ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\par
d\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0
\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-173\slmult0 \
*\tx840\fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Figure 1}\fs14\cf1\f0\charscalex100 {.}\tab \
fs14\cf1\f0\charscalex100 {The f-layer \uc1\u8211X 18-methyl eicosanoic acid is
intimately bound to the}\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-200\slmult0 \fs14\cf1\f0\charscal
ex100 {exo-cuticle and intensely hydrophobic.}\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0
\fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213
\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri
0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\
li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\p
ar\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs
18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slm
ult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl
-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li18
6\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\p
ard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\c
f0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0
\fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213
\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-266\slmult0 \*\tx840\fs14\cf0\f0\charsc
alex100 {Figure 2}\fs14\cf1\f0\charscalex100 {.}\tab \fs14\cf1\f0\charscalex100
{Healthy hair as evinced by shine and body.}\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \
fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-293\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {hair. Com
bing wet hair is more likely to stretch brittle hair to}\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-2
26\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {its breaking point (Draelos, 2005).}\par\
pard\li426\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Hair shafts, when dry
produce static electricity. Static can}\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\
cf0\f0\charscalex100 {cause hair shafts to repel, creating flyaway hair. Moistur
e}\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {reduces static
and frizz (Draelos, 2005).}\par\pard\li426\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\chars
calex100 {Hair shape, especially in cross-section influences wave}\par\pard\li18
6\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {and curl, light reflection and
therefore hair shine, sebum}\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\char
scalex100 {retention, and ease of grooming (Draelos, 2005).}\par\pard\li186\ri0\
sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs18\cf1\f0\charscal
ex100 {COSMETIC ALTERATION}\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\chars
calex100 {Successful cosmetic alteration requires chemical processes that}\par\p
ard\li186\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {alter the normal struct
ure of the hair shaft (Harrison and Sinclair,}\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-240\slmult0
\fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {2004). For a permanent change in the hair, the chem
ical}\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {reaction of
coloring, perming, or straightening must occur in the}\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-226
\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {cortex. Bleaching, perming, and straighteni
ng alter the physical}\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex
100 {properties of hair. The f-layer is removed with any chemical}\par\pard\li18
6\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {procedure and the internal disu
lfide bonds of the cortex are}\par\column\pard\li3960\ri0\sl-200\slmult0 \fs20\c
f1\f0\charscalex100 {RD Sinclair}\par\pard\li3960\ri0\sl-200\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f
0\charscalex100 {Healthy Hair}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\par
d\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par
\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0
\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18

\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \
fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmul
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lmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-2
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sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\
ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\
li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \*\tx666\fs14\c
f0\f0\charscalex100 {Figure 3}\fs14\cf1\f0\charscalex100 {.}\tab \fs14\cf1\f0\ch
arscalex100 {A significant degree of weathering to the hair shaft.}{ }\fs14\cf0\
f0\charscalex100 {Most}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-200\slmult0 \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex1
00 {weathering is self-inflicted.}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par
\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0
\f0\charscalex100 {broken in hair styling with permanent waves. Excessive or}\pa
r\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {repeated chemical trea
tment, poor grooming habits, and}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\c
harscalex100 {environmental exposure produce changes in hair texture and}\par\pa
rd\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {if extreme can result in h
air breakage. These changes can be}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0
\charscalex100 {seen microscopically as \uc1\u8216X\uc1\u8216Xweathering\uc1\u82
17X\uc1\u8217X of the hair shaft and}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\
f0\charscalex100 {contribute to rendering the hair structurally weaker, more pro
ne}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {to tangling, and
rougher in appearance (Figure 3).}\par\pard\li240\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\
f0\charscalex100 {Different types of hair have varying affinity for the differen
t}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {coloring and wavi
ng methods. Damaged hair also has a}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f
0\charscalex100 {different affinity for hair products (Brown, 1977).}\par\pard\l
i240\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {In addition hair strength an
d resistance to damage by}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscal
ex100 {exogenous factors show racial as well as individual variation.}\par\pard\
li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Inherited structural abnormal
ity in hair fiber formation are}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\ch
arscalex100 {rare and beyond the scope of this article.}\par\pard\li240\ri0\sl-2
26\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {In people of African descent, permanent h
air loss in the}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {for
m of hot comb alopecia and possibly also central}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult
0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {centrifugal alopecia are recognized, rare conseque
nces of}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {hair straig
htening procedures (Sinclair}{ }\fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {et al.,}{ }\fs18\cf0
\f0\charscalex100 {1999). Traction}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0
\charscalex100 {alopecia is potentially reversible hair loss that occurs as a}\p
ar\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {consequence of certai
n hair styles (Sinclair}{ }\fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {et al.}\fs18\cf0\f0\chars
calex100 {, 1999).}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\s
l-253\slmult0 \fs18\cf1\f0\charscalex100 {WEATHERING}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\sl
mult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Weathering is the progressive degeneration fro
m the root to}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {the t
ip of the hair of the cuticle and then later the cortex due}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl
-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {to routine everyday wear and tear.}\par
\pard\li240\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Although all hair exh
ibits some degree of weathering,}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\c
harscalex100 {longer hair, subjected to repeated insults, inevitably shows}\par\
pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {more severe changes of w
eathering (Figure 2) (Gummer,}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\char
scalex100 {1999). Features of weathering include damaged cuticles,}\par\pard\li0
\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {longitudinal fissures known as s
pilt ends and transverse}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscale
x100 {fissures resembling the nodes seen in trichorrhexis nodosa}\par\pard\li0\r
i0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {(Dawber, 1996).}\par\pard\li240\ri

0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {The hair shaft documents the histor

y of the cosmetic}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {p
ractices of an individual (Gummer, 1999). Hair grows at}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-240
\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {E}{ }\fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {1 cm per m
onth, and so the tip of a hair 24 cm in length, is}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmu
lt0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {in fact 2 years old (Gummer, 1999). Therefore, n
ewly growing}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {roots
have different properties to the hair tips. The older part of}\par\pard\li0\ri0\
sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {the hair shaft, particularly the tip
has undergone over 700}\par\pard\li3693\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li
3693\ri0\sl-306\slmult0 \*\tx5346\fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {www.jidonline.org}\
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}}}}\pgwsxn11880\pghsxn15653\marglsxn373\margrsxn133\margtsxn346\margbsxn80\cols
2\colno1\colw5720\colsr-0\colno2\colw5653\pard\li480\ri0\sl-200\slmult0 \fs20\cf
1\f0\charscalex100 {RD Sinclair}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-200\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\
charscalex100 {Healthy Hair}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\par
d\li480\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0
\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-333\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {washes, the appli
cation of hot styling implements and other}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \f
s16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {cosmetic procedures such as bleaching, permanent color
ing}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {and perming,
and may show features of weathering, whereas}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-226\slmult0
\fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {the root may be less porous and have different chemi
cal}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {properties (G

ummer, 1999).}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl

-240\slmult0 \fs18\cf1\f0\charscalex100 {SPECIFIC CAUSES OF WEATHERING}\par\pard
\li480\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Bleaching}\par\pard\li480\
ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Bleaching oxidizes the existing m
elanin in the cortex. Darker}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\cha
rscalex100 {hair requires longer bleaching times. Red hair is more difficult}\pa
r\pard\li480\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {to bleach than brown
hair. The oxidization reaction destroys}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs1
6\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {some of the disulfide bonds within the keratin and can}\
par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {damage the cuticle
making it more porous (Bolduc and}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\
f0\charscalex100 {Shapiro, 2001).}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\p
ar\pard\li480\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Permanent styling}\
par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Permanent styling
is achieved through the use of permanent}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs1
6\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {waving or straighteners. Both processes involve denatura
tion}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {of the struc
tural disulfide bonds and as such have the}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \f
s16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {potential to cause significant damage to the hair (Zvi
ak, 1986).}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {They a
lso remove covalently bound surface lipids, changing)}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-226
\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {the surface of the hair from hydrophobic to
hydrophilic}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {to a
llow the interaction of water and styling products}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-226\sl
mult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {(Gummer, 1999).}\par\pard\li720\ri0\sl-226\slm
ult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Permanent waving or perming changes the shape o
f the}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {hair so tha
t the new shape persists through several shampoos.}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-226\sl
mult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Structural disulfide bonds need to be broken (
Borish, 1977;}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Gra
y, 1997). The neutralization process may be more}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-240\slmu
lt0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {damaging than the thiol reduction and free radic
als may}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {cause som
e of this damage (Borish, 1977). Newly grow-}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-226\slmult0
\fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {ing hair will not be affected and so the perm eventu
ally}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {grows out.}\
par\pard\li720\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Chemical hair rela
xing or lanthionization is similar to}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs16\c
f0\f0\charscalex100 {permanent waving, but the hair is permanently straightened}
\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {instead of curled
.}\par\pard\li720\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Hair straighten
ing needs to be repeated every 4\uc1\u8211X6 weeks}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-226\sl
mult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {and only new regrowth needs to be straightened
, otherwise}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {damag
e to the hair can occur (Ahn and Lee, 2002).}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-213\slmult0
\fs18\cf0\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-253\slmult0 \*\tx3240\fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100
{Individual and racial variation.}\tab \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Mongoloid hai
r is straight}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {and
is more commonly dark brown in color than black. It has}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {a circular cross-section. Caucasoid hair
has an elliptical}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100
{cross-section and may be straight, wavy, or curly. The color}\par\pard\li480\r
i0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {may vary from red, blond, brown to
true black. Negroid hair}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charsc
alex100 {is identical to Caucasoid and Mongoloid hair in amino-acid}\par\pard\li
480\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {composition and distribution
(Khumalo and Dawber, 2005),}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\char
scalex100 {but has a larger diameter, lower water content, flattened}\par\pard\l
i480\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {elliptical cross-section. It
is usually black or dark brown,}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0

\charscalex100 {tightly curled, low in shine when compared to Mongoloid}\par\par

d\li480\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {hair and high in sebum. I
t has increased grooming friction,}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\
f0\charscalex100 {which combined with low tensile strength makes it more}\par\pa
rd\li480\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {difficult to manage.}\pa
r\pard\li480\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs1
8\cf1\f0\charscalex100 {HAIR GROOMING}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\c
f0\f0\charscalex100 {Shampoos are detergents designed to remove sebum, sweat,}\p
ar\pard\li480\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {fungal elements, de
squamated corneocytes, styling products,}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs1
6\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {and dirt. Conditioners are used to moisturize hair after
}\par\pard\li480\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {removal of sebum
to leave the hair soft, smooth, hydrated,}\par\column\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmul
t0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\s
lmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-2
13\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\
sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\
ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\
li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\p
ard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\p
ar\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\c
f0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs
18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0
\fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slm
ult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213
\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl
-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri
0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li
0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-280\slmult0 \*\tx666\fs14\cf0
\f0\charscalex100 {Figure 4}\fs14\cf1\f0\charscalex100 {.}\tab \fs14\cf1\f0\char
scalex100 {Cosmetic products restore the optical and physical properties of}\par
\pard\li0\ri0\sl-200\slmult0 \*\tx1493\fs14\cf1\f0\charscalex100 {hair after wea
thering.}\tab \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {960}\fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {}{ }\fs
14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {1458 mm (72}\fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {}{ }\fs14\cf0\f0
\charscalex100 {72 DPI).}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0
\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {and low in static. Many differen
t shampoo detergents and}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscale
x100 {conditioning agents exist and are reviewed in detail else-}\par\pard\li0\r
i0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {where (Draelos, 2005).}\par\pard\l
i0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-253\slmult0 \fs18\cf1\f0\cha
rscalex100 {HAIR CARE}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex10
0 {Modern cosmetic products are formulated to cleanse hair of}\par\pard\li0\ri0\
sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {detritus, restore and improve cuticul
ar and cortical function}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscale
x100 {and reduce detangling and grooming force. Intensive}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-2
26\slmult0 \*\tx1320\*\tx2506\*\tx4173\fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {conditioners}\
tab \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {containing}\tab \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {poly
-quaternium}\tab \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {polymers,}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-240\
slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {dimethicones, and gum extracts are designed
to obviate}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {the self
-inflicted excesses of chemical and physical}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \f
s18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {damage. Intensive conditioning can temporarily \uc1\u8
216X\uc1\u8216Xreplace\uc1\u8217X\uc1\u8217X}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \f
s18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {the f-layer, improve moisture retention in the cortex}
\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {restoring some of t
he diminished physical properties of hair.}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs1
8\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Improvement in hair shine is a key benefit of modern}\pa
r\pard\li0\ri0\sl-226\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {products (Figure 4).}\
par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\
cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-186\slmult0 \fs14\cf1\f0\charscalex100 {CONFLICT OF INTE

REST}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-173\slmult0 \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {The author rec

eived an honorarium for consultant\uc1\u8217Xs services from Procter &}\par\pard
\li0\ri0\sl-173\slmult0 \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Gamble towards the preparati
on of this article.}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\
sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\
ri0\sl-173\slmult0 \fs14\cf1\f0\charscalex100 {REFERENCES}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-2
53\slmult0 \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Ahn HJ, Lee WS (2002) An ultrastructural
study of hair fibre damage and}\par\pard\li320\ri0\sl-173\slmult0 \fs14\cf0\f0\c
harscalex100 {restoration following treatment with permanent hair dye.}{ }\fs14\
cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Int J Dermatol}\par\pard\li320\ri0\sl-186\slmult0 \fs14\cf
0\f0\charscalex100 {41:88\uc1\u8211X92}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs14\cf
0\f0\charscalex100 {Bolduc C, Shapiro J (2001) Hair care products. Waving, strai
ghtening,}\par\pard\li320\ri0\sl-173\slmult0 \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {conditi
oning, and coloring.}{ }\fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Clin Dermatol}{ }\fs14\cf0\f
0\charscalex100 {19:431\uc1\u8211X6}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \*\tx3613\f
s14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Borish ET (1977) Hair waving. In: DH Johnson (ed).}\ta
b \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Hair and Hair Care}\fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {.}\
par\pard\li320\ri0\sl-173\slmult0 \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {1st edn. New York:
Marcel Dekker, pp 167\uc1\u8211X90}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs14\cf0\f
0\charscalex100 {Brown KC (1977) Hair colouring. In: DH Johnson (ed).}{ }\fs14\c
f0\f0\charscalex100 {Hair and Hair Care}\fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {,}\par\pard\
li320\ri0\sl-186\slmult0 \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {1st edn. New York: Marcel D
ekker, pp 191\uc1\u8211X215}\par\pard\sect\sectd\sbknone\pgwsxn11880\pghsxn15653
\marglsxn373\margrsxn133\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\
sl-306\slmult0 \*\tx480\fs16\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {4}\tab \fs16\cf0\f0\charscale
x100 {Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings (2007), Volume
12}\par\pard\sect\sectd\sbknone\pgwsxn11880\pghsxn15653\marglsxn373\margrsxn133\
pard\sect\sectd\sbkpage\pgwsxn11880\pghsxn15653\marglsxn666\margrsxn80\margtsxn3
46\margbsxn80\cols2\colno1\colw5426\colsr-0\colno2\colw5706\pard\li186\ri0\sl-21
3\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\r
i0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard
\li186\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-280\slmult0 \fs14\cf0\
f0\charscalex100 {Dawber R (1996) Hair: its structure and response to cosmetic p
reparations.}\par\pard\li506\ri0\sl-186\slmult0 \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Clin
Dermatol}{ }\fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {4:105\uc1\u8211X12}\par\pard\li186\ri0\
sl-240\slmult0 \fs12\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Dawber RPR, Messenger AG (1997) Hair
follicle structure, keratinization}\par\pard\li506\ri0\sl-173\slmult0 \*\tx4600\
fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {and the physical properties of hair. In: R Dawber (ed
).}\tab \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Diseases}\par\pard\li506\ri0\sl-186\slmult0
\fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {of the Hair and Scalp}\fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {.
3rd edn. Oxford: Blackwell Science,}\par\pard\li506\ri0\sl-173\slmult0 \fs14\cf0
\f0\charscalex100 {pp 23\uc1\u8211X50}\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \*\tx16
13\fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Draelos ZD (2005)}\tab \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100
{Hair Care; An illustrated Dermatologic Handbook}\fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {.}\
par\pard\li506\ri0\sl-173\slmult0 \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {London: Taylor and
Francis, 217 p}\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {D
raelos ZD (1991) Hair cosmetics.}{ }\fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Dermatol Clin}{
}\fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {9:19\uc1\u8211X27}\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-240\slmult
0 \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Feughelman M (1977) Morphology and properties of h
air. In: DH Johnson}\par\pard\li506\ri0\sl-186\slmult0 \*\tx906\fs12\cf0\f0\char
scalex100 {(ed).}\tab \fs12\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Hair and Hair Care}\fs12\cf0\f
0\charscalex100 {. 1st edn. New York: Marcel Dekker,}\par\pard\li506\ri0\sl-173\
slmult0 \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {pp 1\uc1\u8211X12}\par\pard\li186\ri0\sl-240
\slmult0 \*\tx3080\fs12\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Gray J (1997) Cosmetic hair treatm
ents. In:}\tab \fs12\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {The World of Hair}\fs12\cf0\f0\charsc
alex100 {. J Gray (ed).}\par\pard\li506\ri0\sl-186\slmult0 \fs14\cf0\f0\charscal
ex100 {London: Macmillan, pp 79\uc1\u8211X108}\par\column\pard\li3960\ri0\sl-200
\slmult0 \fs20\cf1\f0\charscalex100 {RD Sinclair}\par\pard\li3960\ri0\sl-200\slm
ult0 \fs18\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Healthy Hair}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \
fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-213\slmul

t0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-306\slmult0 \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Gummer

CL, Dawber RPR (1997) Hair cosmetics. In: R Dawber (ed).}\par\pard\li320\ri0\sl186\slmult0 \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Diseases of the Hair and Scalp}\fs14\cf0
\f0\charscalex100 {. 3rd edn. Oxford: Blackwell Science,}\par\pard\li320\ri0\sl173\slmult0 \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {pp 466\uc1\u8211X82}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl
-240\slmult0 \*\tx4733\fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Gummer CL. (1999) Hair shaft e
ffects from cosmetics and styling.}\tab \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Exp}\par\par
d\li320\ri0\sl-186\slmult0 \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Dermatol}{ }\fs14\cf0\f0\
charscalex100 {8:317}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100
{Harrison S, Sinclair R (2004) Hair colouring, permanent dyeing and hair}\par\p
ard\li320\ri0\sl-173\slmult0 \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {structure.}{ }\fs14\cf0
\f0\charscalex100 {J Cosmetic Dermatol}{ }\fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {2:180\uc1\
u8211X5}\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Khumalo NP,
Dawber RPR, Ferguson DJP (2005) Apparent fragility of African}\par\pard\li320\r
i0\sl-173\slmult0 \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {hair is unrelated to the cystine-r
ich protein distribution: a cytochemical}\par\pard\li320\ri0\sl-186\slmult0 \*\t
x2173\fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {electron microscopic study.}\tab \fs14\cf0\f0\c
harscalex100 {Exp Dermatology}{ }\fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {14:311\uc1\u8211X4}
\par\pard\li0\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \*\tx3080\fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Sinclair R
D, Banfield CC, Dawber RPR (1999)}\tab \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Handbook of D
iseases of the}\par\pard\li320\ri0\sl-173\slmult0 \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Ha
ir and Scalp}\fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {. Oxford: Blackwell Science, 239 p}\par
\pard\li0\ri0\sl-240\slmult0 \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Zviak C (1986) Permanen
t waving and hair straightening. In: C Zviak (ed).}{ }\fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100
{The}\par\pard\li320\ri0\sl-186\slmult0 \fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {Science of
Hair Care}\fs14\cf0\f0\charscalex100 {. New York: Marcel Dekker, pp 183\uc1\u821
1X212}\par\pard\li3693\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li3693\ri0\sl-213\s
lmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li3693\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li3693\ri
0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard\li3693\ri0\sl-213\slmult0 \fs18\cf0\par\pard
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