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D ressingtheMan is the definitive guide to what
men need to know in. tQ dress well and
look stylish. without becoming fashion victims.
Alan FLusser's name is synonymouswi th taste
and style. With his new book, he combines his
encyclopedic knowledge of men's clothes with his
signature wit ancl to address the funda-
mental paradox of modern men's fashion: 'Why,
after men today have spent more money on
dothes than in any other period of history; -are
there well-dressed men than at any time
ever before?
According to Flusser, dressing well is not all
that difficult; the real challenge lies in being ahle
to acquire the fight person-al-ized Instruction.
Dressing well pivots on two pillars-proportion
and color. Flus,ser believes that '"Permanent
Fashionibillty,J) both hi,s promise and goal for
the reader, starts by being accountable to a per-
sonal set of physical trademarks and not to any
Jcind of .random, seasonally se.rved-Llp collection
of fashion .flashes.
Unlike fashic;m. which is obliged to cha:q.ge
each season. the face's shape, the neck's height,
the width, the arm's length. the torso's
strucwre, and the foot's size reJnain fairly con-
stant over time. Once a man learlis how to adapt
the :fundamentals of permanent fashion to his
physique a:nd complexion,_he's halfway home.
Taking the reader through each major cloth-
ing das15ication step- by-step, tW.s user-friendly
guide helps you apply your own specifics to a
series of dressing options> fro1n business casual
and fotmalwear to pattern-on-pattern coordina-
tion, or how to choose the m0_st flattetihg doth-
.ingsiihouette for your body type and shirt collar
for your e.
A man's physical traits represent his individ-
ual .roadmap, and the quickestroute toward forg-
ing an endn ring sty1e of dress is through exposure
to the legendary practitioners of this rare mascu-
line art. Flusser has assembled the largest and
most diver-se collectien of sty.lishly mantled 1nen
everfound in one book Nlany nevet-before-seeh
vintage photographs from the ern of Cary Grant,
(conti11ued on
t002
(aontim1ed fr(:)m front j1a.p) .
Tyrone Power, and Fred Astaire are etn.ployed to
help illustrate the range and diversity of a1,1then-
tic men's fashion. the Man's sheer rpagni-
tude of options will enable the xeader to expand
both d1e grammar and verfuiage o.fhis petmanent-
fashion vocabLuary
For thosemen.hoping to find
fillm.ent somewhere down the road, tethering
their journey to the mind-set of permanent
fashion will deiivet them there earlier rather
than later in life.
ALAN FLUS S'ER ls the President of Alan F1usser
Designs, a company he founded in I979- He
received the 1985 Goty as Top
Designer and the Cut.ty SarkAwardin1987for his
first two books' ''ilni.que contribution tQ the Utera-
tute of menswear." He attracmd natiohal attention
for designing Michael wardrobe in the
movie Wall Stret;t, as well as acclaim for hJs work on
the HB 0 m0yie Barbarians at Gate and the 6lm
Scent of a He is the author of four books;
Jnduding Style and the Man, clothes and ih.e Mart, and
the Mq:n. l-Ie has two daughters and lives in
New York.
Jacket design by Joel Avirom and Jason Snyder
&ant cover photograph: Getty Archives.
Back c:::over photographs:
top: l ondon; Culver PJ1otqs;
bottom: courtesy of Polo Ralph lauren
Author photograph by James Murray

-www.harpere0.ll.in:s.com
Mah
e
ALSO BY ALAN fL USSI R
Style and the Man
Clothes and the Man
Making the Man

Mantesh
PERMANENT
FASH ION
2
HOSIERY
1-IARMONIES
170
THE PO\ER
OF COLOR
16
FOOT
DECORUM
186

PROPORTION:
T HE fOUNDATION
OF STYLE
34
ACCESSORIES:
THE MAJOR IMPORTANCE
OF 1/[INOR THINGS
210

THE
PREROGATIVES
OF PATTERN
FORMAL WEAR:
BLACK- AND- WHI TE
T I ~ T T
232
Mantesh
THE SUIT
78
BUSINESS
CASUAL
254
ODD JACKETS,
TROUSERS. AND
WAI STCOATS
100
GLOSSARY
277
THE DRESS
SHIRT
120
BIBLIOGRAPHY
J06
NECKWEAR
144
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
307
Mantesh
Mantesh
4
DRESSING
THE MAN
J IWHft; I,AS
,"lcrtltly \/(nl
ll.'tt):,' fl()l,l)P.)rt
Almt
Male adornment has in p<1rt. because of the cultural shift toward personal
expression and individuality that took place in the latter third of the twentieth century. During
the 1950 . the typical businessman literally hid behind hi gray flannel uir. The era's political cli -
mate mandated fashion conservatism and uniforrnity. ln some circles. men who dared to dress
diFferently were viewed with derision. as outsiders. Fortunately for men's fashion. the tradition-
toppling sixties provided the jump start for males to shed their stereotyped personas. By the
dawn of the new mHienrtium. a peacock had stepped out of the gray Aannel cocoon.
One positive outgrmvth of the sixties tw-bulence was the legitimacy that the period gave
to clothes as badges of communication. Masculine attire vvas svvepr up in the quest for broader
social freedoms: conformity came to be regarded as almost an infringement of personal! iberty In
the image-oriented eighties. men dre, sed to look wealthy and powerfld. By the nineties. sophisti-
cated men looked upon fashion as another means of discourse in an information-driven '"'orld.
However, i.n one of fashion s less forhmatc ironies. when asked to name those public
figures \vho now exemplify this ne,,found interest in male decor. American style gurus and
menswear professionals come up relatively empty- handed. Likewise. fashion journalists from
other Westernized countries are equall y baHlcd. unable to produce even a foursome of domes-
\\II t.UM f10t\UR\ " f,IIHW
llroAir
1'.
SJ'r>rl"rtn11
(\XTitO:SY J. mU:Xt:t. J K.
lhtln;r Mon
rAikiJAlC,._l"',
Mqtl,., l'fnurt
ntr.u "'TAIAh
'J'IJtNIU
T R(JIUl ll. f'JflN
,frthllrtl
r.
SpcwtJ!IItm
r!rl.ll
FlJfi"ufrr
LEFT:
Mencifstyk
circa 19JOS
1
cap tared
head-to-toe.
OPPOSITE:
Men cifstyle,
circa 2oooJ pictured in
celebrity hea.dshots .
Mantesh
tic male fas hion exemplar. under the age of si.'ty And no one is tqring to come up with such
iconic elegantes as film legend Cary Grant or Italian industrialist Gianni gnel li ; justa couple of
high-:Byi ng social or busLness magnates or even the odd Hollywood leading man with an affin-
ity for the random sartorial flourish woul d do.
How is it that almost three decades of unprecedented fasb ion consumption. so
few capable practitioners of this ma culine art form have been bred? If d:ressi ng well were sim-
ply a matter of donning the latest designer duds or owning an expensi\'e wardrobe. fashion
nabobs should be in abLuldance. My quick response is that learning how to dress welJ is much
like trring to build a classically beautiful place to live. amount of professional decoration or
priceless fu rnishings will ultimately make much of a difference if the :floors or \val ls that they
:.1re to adorn shaky foundation. ln trying to survive in ::u1 increasiJ1gly competitive Jrena,
the men's retailer decided to ride on the coattails of the high-profi le designer brand.Je:.:t\'ing the
customer I i ttl e cho.ice bur to base his dressing style on the shi Fri ng sands of fashion. U nfortu-
nately. when the style '"' inds change. and they always do. the trend-captive man Found himself
standing omewhere other than terra firma.
Lec. 1 rn ing how to dress '"'el l is not as diFficult as i r may seem. Mud1 I ike the newly fashion-
able pastime of golf. stylish dressing is
an acquired skill that can be honed and
impro;ved with correct practice. /\s J
Cormer low-handicap go.lfcr. f am often
srruck by the Fact that the vast majority
of participants in both activities spend
an inmdimlte amount of time repeat-
ing the wrong techniques. h 1rthcr
tbe same faults into their
swings, ori n this case. in to thei r closet .
\iVh il e the go I fing enthusiast
can engage a recognized profession;1_l
+or instruction. d1e +ash ion foll ower
lacks a body of objective experD\ to call
upon fo1 indi,idual gu.idance. Al1)' go'l f
pro will confin11 that v.rithout the
proper grip, stance, and balance- the
Fundamentals-a]! the practice iJ1 the
world will not enable the most dedi-
cated goJfcr to fulfill his potenrial.
Developing a Aattering mode of dress
is no diFferent: without a working
knowledge of the basics, a man can not
achieve true stylishness.
-- -
PERMANENT
FA SifiON
Mantesh
Dressitlg,vell rests on two pillars-colot ari.d
propon ion. Once you learn vvhich colors enhance
yoLu complexion and why specific proportions flatter
your physique, you are home. And does
i r take for a man to grasp these two critical ae. thetics?
Nor nearlr as much aptitude or savoir faire as you
might think Cmsider rhis: the classic m.ale tu:xedo
confers ins tan r;;u1eous elatl on aU corners, yet this old-
world regime is composed of only two colors, black
and whjte. lf such a simple color scenario qlll help any
m.an appear debonair, you don't need m be smne kind
of Kandinsky to look your best.
As for proportion. here's the kind of mind-set
responsible for the current state of sartorial confLls.i.on.
'Men. tlS as women, invatiably i.nqu.ire whether tie
widths wi ll become latger or smaller. F-Tovvever. the
aJ1S\Ne r lies not in the world of fashion but it1 the realm
of personal architectLue. The vvidd1 of a w:an's .necktie
should relate to that ofhis jacket's lapels. which, in turn,
are govctned by the size of the coat's shoulders. (See
chapter 3, "Proportion: The Foundation of Style. ")
Should a1nan be broad-shmddcrcd. a slightl y wider necktie wi ll harmonize better with the jacket's
ti-tUet proportions: if small -shoul derecl a na1-.r.ower necktie vvould be the liJ.ore flattering choice.
Fashion should be accountable to a specific set of physica1 trademarks and not to some random.
seasonally served-up set.ofashioo Hashes.
\ tVith this. indiYidual i.zed app1
7
0ach, bo'w to dress vvell begi.ns to take on a cer-
tain logic, if oot clarity However. men intent upon improving their dressing skills are often
stymied by the lack of access to intelligent and personaLized instruction. UnforwnateJy: no mat-
ter hovv sophisticated a store's merchandise, without a and experienced sales
staff the right clothes have l-ittle chance of ending up 011 the right back in the right \(\.ray.
Due to l.J.llStablc financing, debt-ridden balance or stocld1older pressures, many
larger retailers have been from th iJli.Jng about the long term. And with profits
squeezed by increasing overheads.. sa.lcs training and service are the first to suffer. Most retailers
me reluctant to invest much in educating :a new hire. Although the exceptional retail eJ- or indi -
vidual sales might take the initiative to lean1 about the hi story and traditions und.er-
lyi n.g fine rnenswe:;tr. he or she is not the norm. Nowadays. the distinguished salesperson is
either promoted up to management or hired a,;vay by.a competitor.
l'artiarhtrly at the top end, where expectations for professionalisn1 and superior service
are justifiably h.ighcr, retail expertise has sunk to an all -time low. }vlost better-quality retailers
have t raded up to more expensive mer12handise, ceding almost all responsibility for the education
- - . .
--- - - - - --
Mantesh
7
PERMANENT
fASJ-II ON
OPPOSITE 0. LEFT:
Two paragons of ,.seasoned
simplicity": Sig110r Agnelli and
Doug Fairbm1ks Jr. blanketed in
the quiet asserrive11ess of a
two-color ensemble.
- -- ---
8
DR ESS I NfJ
THE MAN
of its sales staff to their suppliers, which is like letting the fox loose in the henhouse. As expe1i-
enced veterans retire or are pushed our to make '''ay for a more youth-ful and efficient sell -
ing Staff. Itl Cll 's cl othing floors become increasingly bereft cif those qualified tO jnstruct anyone
imetestcd .i.n the finer points of this masculine art fortn.
vVith most selJers' incomes derived primari ly from commission., fash.ion advice is too
frequentl y prejudiced by t he p rospect of a sale. It's rare to find a salesperson inclined to dissuade
a customer frorn buying an ill -fitti ng or w1Aatteri.ng garment because of tbe pressure to sustain
or increase bis fjgures. Too ofte11 , personal opini on and friendl y smile are respons.i.b.l e for the
fashion-challenged's sluu1.ki ng cl oset space. And the econon:Jic reali ties currently operating
in men's retailing, there is not n1uch reason to expect immediate i.Jnprm'ement.
'vVhereas rhis might sotmd like chapter and verse liom any period in t\ventieih-century
menswear. such vvas not always the case. T he tv.renty-year span bookended by the tvvo worl.d wars
marked theh.igh poi.ntofAmerican men's retaiLing and fashion. This was the lasttimethatthe man-
ufacturing, retailing. and editorial sectors of the mensvvear industry worked together to the
del.ivery of what it prcnriised: authentic style and correct taste. Even though the I920s and J930S
de of considerable econon1 ic uun td dar Ame rica, they produced the gener-
ation it1 the t-vven:tieth cenhuy But the lesson from th.at bygone time vvas. not how well kitted-out
the well -to-do ,;.,,ere, but r;;) ther that the mc, m's dressing tastes were not th:rtar behind.
During that peri od. the American male was
the beneficiary of some very favorable sartorial cir-
cumstances. The period by catapulting the most
important single force in m.odern men's fashion onto
t be -world stage. Whi.le still not yet ] ing of England,
David \i\lind$or was regarded in Americaa5 the undis-
puted King of Fash1on. The yeUov\r-haired heiJ to the
thro11 e. Yariouslv knovvn as the Prince of \ tVales and
J .
1ate.r as d1c ofvVindsor, visited the United States
in 1924 and made front-page news . . .Plmtographers
trail ed him from the Long Island estates of America's
wealthiest families to lunch with President Calvi.n
Coolidge, with detours to the races at BeL11onr Park
and the polo 111atches at Meadowbrook.
The Prince qfwales: The Beau of the Twentiet11 Century.
1\s British menS\i\rear's greatest u aveling
salesman. young Prince of'vVales ap.d wh<lf he w01e
\.vere matters of deep interest wbe.rever he. we.nt. On
September l O, r924, 1vlcn's \iVear magazi.ne reported,
"The average young man in America .is mote inter-
ested in the clothes of the Pri nce of\Vales than in any
other individual on earth." T he travels of this sartorial
Pied l)iper elevated rhe new men's o rder to center
stage. \ Vhen the rock market crash came. \\'h icb one would haYe expected to S\\'ecp fa:h ion
it .had the opposite-effect.
\ iVai I Sneet might have laid an egg but Fashion didn't The Grear De pres ion rcLUrned
style supremacy ro the hands of the lucky fc\\' " ho could sti ll aFf-ord co dress'' ell. General business
condi tions did the of the thrc11hcr by eliminating the chaff or those followers of Fas hion.
lc;:nL.ng the kernels. those men of inAuentiaJ positions in finance and societr ro do the leading. The
new cafe society"s dressing habits. wate[i.ng holes. and social acti\ities monopolized the attentions
the -fashi on press. Thei r intact fortunes <lnd inbred se nse of security emboldened these men to
imprmise <md break the fashion rLJ e . Ironicall y. despite the Depression. or rather. of it.
the next decade proved to be the most important per.iod in rwentieth-cc nmry menswear.
The intet\:va, period signaled the last rime thm the introduction oF a new men's Fash-
ion (or a different wa) of rigging out an old one) gra\ itated down from the upper bracket to
the lowe!'. In other words. before the hot poll oi could sign up for it. the had to sign off
on tt Any fash ion innovation first required the approval of those men considered reliabl e
arbiters of popular taste. Only when a ne\\' wearable \\as adopted by a sufficient number of
these style setters would fashi on bibles such as .-\pparcl , \rts or Esquire magazine tecom mend it to
the greater buying publi c. tvluch like the French vinegrower's Appell ation Contn)lcc. c8ch new
item of apparel faced a rite of passage before it could be ccr6fied :18 "authentic fashion."
If this system did not foster a high enough level. oF cl1m; umer trust. the retailer v\as i 11 tum
expected ro assume final responsibility for hi.o.; establishment's fashion crcdibi lil:)z As Appctrel I \rts
ad,ised. " 1 o merchant can devote his time to better use than to emplo) it in a constant effort to
ti nguish between real and bogus t:1shion. A man who GLilllOt buy with confidence will nor buy at al l. ''
This point of vie-w became a regult.1 r theme o( the periodicRI's momhl y 6di11gs in the 1930s. Stores
.selling men's apparel that lacked the conecr pedigree or that ended up prematurely out of fushio!'1
Camels Hai1' Coat
Mahare1.jahs. of
original usrs
I
Adopted by British
army officers f9r,vear
after polo games
I
Worn in
E11,gland on
furloughs
Noted at
pol.Q matches
and society
I
Brought
ro U.S. by
American
socialite
travel.ets
I
Worn at
Newport
gatherings telilr;ti.s n:tatches
Coconut Straw Hat
Bahamian tt:aw
w0ven by NassaLt natives
I
Sold by
1t[ary Wilso11, Nassau
Purchased by British
and Anierican
sociali res and won1
in Beach_ and
Newport
Thence.
national
pqpuJ ari:t:y
Norwegia11 Slippers
Norway to London
To NassaLL
To Palm Beach
To N(:wport and
U.S., hatlonwide
EXAMPLES OF H OW I930S T AS T ES
BECAME PERMANENT FASH f ON.
PERMANENT
Fil S /liON
favor could expect the victim to promptly
transfer his loyal t)' else,vhue.
By the thirties, nevl men's fashions
appeared fast an.d furious. Formal evening
and d:1y attire were supplauted by more
casual garmentS; such as the dinner jacket
the three-piece lo unge sui:t. and the dress
hi rt with attached soft coUar. 'vVith the
advent of i11creased leisure time. the odd
and ensemble, active and spec-
tator sports\:veat attd all types oflightweight
rewrt garb pressed the.i r way into vogue.
The thirties Jiiale
ately needed both info[med and individual
And an'lazingly, that is e--xactly '"'1hat
he gor!
for all America's sarto1ial shortcomings to follow and fo r all the legend of England's
supremacy in the field of hlen's d o.thcs, durir1g those i11tervvar years, America evolved in large
part through a process of cuhural mimests into the best-dressed ll<lt ion in the "'INorld. Pictures of
gents aTtending sporting events or simpl y enxoute t o work corroborate this. Old newsreels and
periodicals reveal a SLtrprising number of well -dressed chaps. with the average Joe very much a
part of the equation.
The question a1ises: 1:-low di.d the hapless American .male end up on top of the
styJe-leader board? And ho,vwas the of masculine elegance so widely disseminated dm:i.ng this
decade.? Three factors hel ped the-Ametican
mal e step out Fmm uninfonned mediocrity
and up the proverbial ladder toward sty'le
supetiority- rhe prcvalenGe of credible role
models. "bespoke" fashion, and _generally
accepted stancL1.rds of taste.
From the early twenties through
the late t hi rties. t hat elusive but convenient
"the average exposed to
more vis ual "aids'' in the fbrni of stnartl.y
attired public t1gmes than he could shake a
stick at. Well-dressed sociaLites, such as the
13.iddles and the Rhinelanders, and fa!Sh iOll-
savvy business leaders, such as Charlie 11.LtbJ1
and NUlton Holden, just t\vo of the
many trQta of society helping to lift the t aste level of rhe masses. T he silver screen
presented scores of male stars winging about glamorous environs. Fred Asraire.
SETTiNG THE STYtE BAR
OPPOSITE TOP:
Three of society's irifluential men:
Y.Villiam Rhinelander Stewart,
the Duke of Sutherland,
and Chadie Munn.
OPPOSITE BOTTOM:
Even the average joe
sho..,ved a certain style.
ABOVE:
Hollywood set the stage-
Cla1'k Gable, out shopping.
Humphrey Bogart. Gary Cooper. Dougbs fai rbanks. Clark Gable. Cary Grant. Adolphe Mchjou,
Ra) t\'1 illand. 1)rrone Power, George Raft. Jimmy Stewart. and Robert larlor were regularly profiled
at\\ ork and home upholstered in aU sorts of decorous fi ncry T.hcte vvas even a British conti ngent
called the'' ll ollrwood Raj." composed of ud1 Engli h gallants as David ivcn. RonaJd Coleman.
Errol Flynn. and Basi l Rathbone. who paraded arOLUld town like peacocks from Piccad.ill y. \Vhilc
leadi ng men occupied center stage, England's adstocracy consistently ranked among
rhc swankier sahibs in rhc ciYilized vvorld. had tbe tradition and t he time to flaunt the Empire's
inHucnce 0\'Cr mJ.lc habiliment. Daily tidings oF the Prince of vVales \1\TCl'C broadcast worldwide
along with the ocial and sartorial escapades of his dub-elegant confreres. Much like today's
omnipresent billboards. the landscape Furnished C..'\t ensive opportun.ity to observe and imitate the
.
g01ngs-on.
Basil Rathbone, part of the "Hollywood Raj,"
sho1vinghis high style.
The second factor rcspon ible for the
emergence of o many dome ric -,,ells was the
inl-lucnce of 'bespoke" taste. which wa to say.
the 'London Look.'" Ta.ilor and Cutter. Britain's
weekly trade gazette, trumpeted that "a man
can't make love with conviction unless he is
wcarjng a coat cut v\ithin half a mile of Pic-
cadill y" \Vith the world's economies depressed.
men's styk took its lead from those 'Ncl l-
st::trchcd stalwarts with suffi cient cash to have
their clothe tailored on London's legendary
avile Ro": The English drape" suit and all raj -
ment .. Briddish" were regarded as the quintes-
sence of masculine sophistication.
The thirties represented the last epoch
in which a gentleman's ideal w::ts to be attired in
"bespoke E1shions ... Men's dress sti ll represented
a form of class-consciou.me.ss, and tai lor-made
clothes ranked as another of those vessels oFdi.s-
ti nction O-Jnong the ch1sscs. th men's modes
molded by the eGte palates of the international
businessman. Europe's titled aristocrxr and
lloll ywood's cinematic royalty. the general taste
lcvd had nowhere to go but up. and up it went.
Even todar seven decades later. were
one ro conYene the world's be. t-dn:sscd men
under one roo the majority \\'Ould still show
up mantled in some form of custom- made clotb-
ing. Despite the culture's need for immedi<: lte
gratification. the most sophisticated dressers.
p::tsr o1 present, continue to go to t he effort and
expense of bespoke tailoring. Unlike coda)( when
fashion is something formulated by a designer
or a store. back in the thirties. the style seeker
learned that genuine stylishnes was an extension
of himself not the other way around.
The third catalyst serving ro heighten
rhe American male's receptivirr to Cashion \\":15
the medium of established taste. Historicall y.
taste in masculine atti re tended to rdl ecr of
. -....
- ----- - -
t he commu11ity's social leaders. In t he 11ineteenrh cen-
ttuy. mal e decorwn.\vaslargely determi ned by the sor:ts
of the landed gentr y, while that of the new royalty and
tbe upper cl ass domLnated the eady 192 0s and 1930s.
DtU ingthe thirties, person:oll taste and expres-
sjon had comfortable lirnits within which to operate. lt
still 1ight or vvrong to we4r cert..L.i n cl othes for cer-
tain occas iohs. Once a gaJment was classified as sltch,
there vYas no need to qnesti_o n its legitimacy or appro-
priateness. "Authentic h1shion .. involved little specula-
non or p0tennal hazard: in principle, it ,nothing
mort. adopting apparel that had al1eady been
correct and so6aUy acceptable.
Up through the late I9) 0s, pivotal variations
iP male attire v'lrere relatively fevv. making it far easier t o
recogniz<" and foll.ow the of fashion. ivlen knew
fi 'ughlr v,ha.t to wear for most occasions. ln fact. at
e.a.'r in rhe United prior to t he Peacock Revolu.-
non. there was an LLnspoken consensus among t be
u"ell bred as to what constituted good taste in mascu-
llite decor. lt w.as part Brooks Brothers and part Savile
Rt:m a dictum forged by the land's EnglaJl d her-
uage. wi th gentlemanly etiquette presided over by
Uoston's Brahmins.
But by the late SL'Ities, tbe
.. ebellious offsp ring of t he m.iddle
c J.SS had forced taste
m take a backseat t0 the ne\vly
licensed f reedo ms of youth and t he
'rrcet. nowh with the Ritz, up
wirh rhe street.'' prodauned Paris
ENGLAND' S ARISTOCRACY:
The Duke ojWestminster (above)
and Mayor Metcalfe
(accom.panied by his 1v[ft}. 011e of
the Kfng'sfo1'emost of style.
coururier Yves St. Laurent. \ Vith the cbntinuj ty of
taste broken and social custom.s no longer
offering strong guidance for appropriate dress. the
concept of objective st andards -f0> r sartodal taste was
abandoned. Toda)r, one man's good taste 1s another
man's "pizza tie'' (a term 5om novelist TO'rn vVolfe).
VIe have now arrived at that point where rhe
book's subtitle. "lvl asterlng the Art of Permanent
Fashion." some explanati on. The hnki.n.g of per-
D RESSiNG
THE lvLlN

mtmem with ji1slzio11 may wel'l strike. ma11y as an oxymoro.rt. Particularl y today. \vhen fashion is
taken. to mea.n. a .CC.)lll11litment to risk and change. mating it d1c idea of permanence i.s
bound to cause confusion. if not dmvnright controversy. This is not an oversight bltt rather an
atte.n1pt to provoke the inquiring mind.
The idea of permanent fashion operates on two level s. First, it syitibolizes the current
paradox of modern men's fashion. which is. that mens\'vear has enjoyed three decades <.:1f
w1precedenred .grmvth and freedom to configure and reconfigl.Lre t he sartorial tastes of several
generations. yet the re are fe'''er genuinelr wel l-dressed men 1tow than .bdore. There has been
nothing permanent about recent fashion. And second. permanen t Fashion is the book's
prospect us, its .m.issiori to .its teaders. For those hoping to .find sartorial fulfi.llmcllt some-
\yhere dm;vn the road, tetheri ng t heir joumey to the mind -set of permanent fashion will dd ivcr
them there earlier rather than later in life.
Moving towaH:I such a requires the creation of a classicall y stylish W<:lrdrobe and
the knowledge of how to wear it to best personal ad van rage. For n wearable to as fash-
ionabl e in and year out . . it must possess Ln.herenr merit. useful.ness-. and all -around good
taste. And while t he evolntion of one's personal look 1s a work- in-progress. tmderstanding
GOOD TASTE IS PRICELESS
.. . BUT IT DOESN'T COST A THING
AT BROOKS BROTHERS
Good rasre i:> an .ingredie.nt thar gots intO everything
we scl1 here at Breoks Brot hers. Tr costs .no more now
than it dld.in l sui: when-we started in husincs; ... and
it clldn't cost n cent tlten. It's something we put in
everything we maite
1
nncl demand i n we
huy . .. nn intangible quality that helps i4entify quF
merchancl ise as Brooks Br:others.
W!! invite' yciu co drop i:n and cli5covcr tl1at 1s
no addftion:il charge fur the name Brooks Brot.her;.."
0Jir.0WJI Make Rendy-Nlndd St.tiss, jmn $16:5
Our .. J 46"Suiu,$125t4 j.ISS
BOSTON Ati...\i<'rA CF!l CA.GO
spi. FP#<ICISOO L.!)S
vvh.ich colors and proporti0ns strit yew the best e:md why
fertilizes the sarto1ial soi.l in vvhkh 0ne's permanent
fashi onability can b.lossom.
Some may feel that establishi ng rules for gpod
taste may iflhibir self-expression. It's my op.inion that
Dl ey provide the only chance For genuine ind ividuality:
Real innovatioh has always taken place with an a\vare-
ness qf. than an ignorance of the rules. After all.
.l1ovv can you push the envel ope if there is no envelope
to push? Knowing rhe basics of setting a proper table or
writing a decent letter preve nts getting bogged down in
the small stuff Finally. good fo rm makes for a level play-
ing field on which has real n1eaning.
Therefore. for me n ro develop the confideJ1ce
and skills to take a new look out for a spin on their
0 \'\n , they need visual reinforcen1ents. Less i.ncliJled
th<:m the opposite sex to risk victinlizat1on by the
caprices of f1shi on, feel niore st yle-secure when
surrounded by like-attired numbers. \Vhereas the thir -
ties provided an w1 interrupted vi.sta of yvell -clad coves.
the paucity 0f such .male paragons novvaclars is perlu1ps
t he principal cause. for the species's current con.tm-
dtL1111. Jn an attempt to redress th is. Catch-22, Dressing
the Mi7.'11 has pressed into .service largest and most
diverse collection of stylishly m:mtlcd men ever to be assembled rwo co\'ers. Hope-
fully. the sheer magnitude of options; presented here wi ll enable the reader. regardless of his sar-
torial persuasion, ro expand both the grammar and range of his permanent vocabulary
However, one smaJ I ca,ear before we proceed. Though these pages arc Filled with men
' 'rho demonstrate an c.xception;JI feel for clothes. I am not tl)' ing to turn the proverbial "ape-
man into an Adolphe 1\ lenjou. The best- dressed men consistcntJy demonstrate the greatest
degree of self- knowledge, which. for Olll' purposes. means a superior LUldcrstandi ng of tl1eir
physical manner and appearance. Their style deri ve::; from an evolved itnvard eye rhat guides
them tmvard those cuts and colors that best articulate rhei r physiques. At such a rarefied level.
an indi,idual's bodily a\vareness becomes an almo t unconscious dynamic. much like muJtipli -
carion fur c1 mathematician. \Nhile Dressing the 1\ll mz's visual content goes a long '"a)' toward
preparing the reader to take that next . tep. teaching such a high level of style consciousness is
not its primary goal.
The great dressers oF t he past be a pleasure to look at, but they should be regarded
as sources of inspiration. a means to an end. They developed a 'vorlung knowledge of the basic .
freeing their fashion intelligence to experiment and shape these fundamentals inro a more per-
sonal rendering of the art form. ' trctdLing a fundamental here. bending a rule there, the
sophisr:ic:tted dresser aspires to a more poetic, less studied expression. As art critic Kathleen
Campbell has stnted
1
''The perfect art is that which conceals art. "
In my t hirt)'-odd years oi designing and writing about men's .style, I h8ve come to realize
that men possess more naturaJ talent for persOiial decor than generally given credit for. vVhen
:1fFordcd the opporttmity to gertlrsrhand ad\'ice, they rurn out to be surprisingly quick studies. Hav-
ing created custom clothes for a diverse audience of men. I have ret to meet one "'ho, in the privacy
of the fitting room. will not express an interest in wanting tGiook better. I believe rhat men not only
t0 expand their capacity for self-adornment but that they have never been more ready
DaisakLL Ikeda, third president of rhe Soka Gakkai. a Buddhist world- peace organiza-
tion. states. "Our lives are ruled by impermanence. The challenge is l10w to create somethi1igof
e.nduri ng ,aluc \\'ithin the context oF our impermanent I ivc . " Dressing the 1\lan: 1\ fasteri11g the Art C!_{
Permanent Fashioll aspires ro do just that. Although the responsLbility for its realization lie
squarely \Vi thin, permanent fashionability is ,,vithi n t he oF any interested man.
PERMANENT
FASHION
r8.
DREssrNG
THE MAN
exist benveen a man's m.ost visible and.expressive body part, his face, and the clothes surround-
ing it is a prereqt.Lisi te of fi he dressing. Oscar Schoefrl er, Esquire rnagazi1:1e's legendaty fashion
editor. once vvarned, "Never underestimate the power of what you rveru. Aft.er all. theJ:"e is just a
small bit of you sticking out at the neck and cuff Jihe rest of \e.rhat the V\rorld sees is what'$
draped on your fran"ie. '' AJ1d whiah .colors end up fratning this < sm.aU bit of you'' can1nake d1e
difference between this of expression being brought t o life or not.
Cbl oJ: influences first .impresstons more than any other aspect of attire. It can establish an
emotional l ink bet\veen object and observer. When the fae is surrounded by tonalities thatinvjg-
orate and iliuminate its presence, its abi li ty to provoke immediate and marked reactions is ampli-
Fied. women learn early 'On of role of the face iJ1 the dressjng game. The pretti.est
woman's fuce is usua]Jy a canvas to whj ch both nature and art have contr.ibuted. Unfortunately
for the n:tan, ''fen:Jinineu artifices such as cosmetics are not rea:listic options, leaving tile male
countenance more vulnerabl e to outside siege than those fortified facades of the fairer sex.
J-lowever. r11en need to knovY hmN to vveat color .not .so tnuch for its beauty or alJu.re but in.mder
to heighten the face's expressive capacity in the commLmication process.
Although a lot is known about the effect of certain colors on the heartbeat and rate .of
little h.:1s beeri taught of late about t he transforming effect of cl othing colors on a
mah's appearance. The on1y time in this. ce.t1tury that 1nen had ready access tOsuch information
was du.ri n.g tl1e heyday of men ,s el egance, t he 1920s and 1930s. Thjs was a period in vvhich the
drab stiffness of the Victorian costume was being rep.laced by the colorful informality of the
evolvi.ng and fl edgling sportswear fashions.
Among t he century's fashion peri 0dicals, Esqui1'e magazine established itself as the
leading arbiter of American rnen's style. Beginning in t he fall of 1933, Jts editorial department
vvould dispatch style scouts ro the far corners of the globe in search of those dress innovat ions
and style cues m.estlikely to develop inro long:-term fashion trends. But before Esqtdre roJl ed o.Llt
its fashion findings to the public at large, AppmelAJ'ts, its sibling publication, would first present
their conuuerciaJ prospects to i.ts professional audience. the mens,<Vea.r indusrry
w hen a new color became important;, Apparel Arts would introduce it by inventing
sobriqu.ets hke "sandune'' or brownstone" to rmnanticize its appeal. Leading illusti'atots Nvould
be commissioJ1ed to portray the new color"s style currency and wardrobe possibiJities.
point-of-sale and window display layouts 'WoLJ.d folJ.o"w so that retailers could learn how best to
present. promote. and se.ll it .
As suppli ers .. solicited wholesalers and manu-facturers geared up production .. Apparel Arts
announced which Ltpt.on1.Lng Esquir.e :issues wo.uld feanrre the new color "story.'' Depending on
its perceived impor tance i11 the larger fashjon firmament Esquire vi'Ould sornetitties devote an
e11tire season's coverage to promulgating the color story. Style histories discussed \iVh.ich
ceJebri ry and what water:inghole pioneered the tony new shade. Newspaper ads linkilig the
color to, say, one's complexion woul d appear. such as the one on the foll0wij1g page. "Color
vvheeht .inch1di ng the ne'vY shade vvere .devised t:o coordinaJe n1en's c;ornplexions with the latest
suiting fabri cs ::t nd fmni shings. By the time the heralded new colors finall y hi t the shel ves. both
the merchants and the masses \\' ere appropriate!) primed.
The sheer pace of change in Fas hi on between the wars compelled the editori al world to
exalt the hmv- to aspect of masculine style as in no other period in menswear before or As
::1 result. a 111an 's complexion and his choice of clothes became an ongoing t heme in each sea-
on's ryle presentation. Men were in rructed on how to incorporate colors such as town
browns and rustic greens into thcjr city wardrobes and encouraged to take personal advantage
of less popular shades I ike pi.nk. lavender, and gold. Nm surprisingly. the peri od turned out the
most colorfull y cl ad 111 ale in the twentieth century. not to menti on the best dressed.
vVorld I [ sidetracked the exuberance of the '''ealthy fashions of the
thirties. This, Collovved by the gray Banncl conformity of the Fti es and the social upheavals of the
sixties, left later generat ions of style-conscious males pretty rnuch on their own in divining 1:1.11 indi -
vidual d othing palette. f n the early eighties, offshoots of several commercially succe."sfi..tl color books
fo r '"'omen were broached for men. Unfortunately. their methodology was o tortuous in detail and
demanding in time rhat most men decided to ignore their entreatie of sartorial cnUgbtenment,
resigning them elves to the predictable sa11ctuar}' of the dark blue or gray business rnantlc.
Sll ljtief\\C t'ltl t'l lllitl' ttl h.tl rl Mtl tlilttrldllj; ttllll IJi
tlhi lllull lr.\l ttl tm , ,(l tfln "Ui l ti ll nt. lu, fr:...::nu\
.iJOlthl tull ltoUII'Ol'IJirH>\l 1b
lrall!ll :nnh l) t'-1 uf ln.l:an nul u,,,ft
T HE P OWER
O F C O LOR
P EX 0
wll h app.ciJ,trialc .."'iht'- HI lnltrlr filr Utt' .ult tiUwk., tllll''" i.ollf1-h w':t.) l1t1 lrl
t.-l H; l,ut$. ,lthtt. 11tCIIQ.jt!J VQ ).UUc:th )r rn.ul\'
as J;UMtet. fQr .,.-uhanut,q O"l"ff..nrt"' in 11Ht .. "'-I..,Ctl"tl tf1,.. '*"111 1t
tiMII iu Uit' c-nhlf,. 11f htrh lu t'\'l' t')
l.'.:l f(" tCftl'lllttU \l lir!ot Cat\
1"' h iirnd uubtNwn,::
Magazines keyed fashion co lot stories to d@rent complexions.
20
DRESSING
TH.E b'AN
THE ABC SOFA PERSONAL
COLOR STRATEGY
ecping in mind t hat the face is rhe destination to vvh:.ich one's artirQ should escort
the beholder's ;Jrtention, i-F too mucl1 or too 1 ittlc; repartee occLLr.s bet\i\'ccn it and the stu-round-
ing colbrs. the eye is diverted and one:s personal. pi:ese.nt:Jtion is weakened. Tv.vo color
techniques mu.stbe learned ifthe male'l'\comrnunication center is to be.assuredofoptimal ani -
marion and inAuence. The first involves the relationsbip betvvcen the aJ1d an out-
fit 's level oF contrast. The colors of :;my given ensemble shoLJd exhibit the same degree of
contrast as manifested by one's skin and hair tones. <1 person's two primary color signposts.
Bold stripes lighting up Tyrone Powers higl-vcontrast complexion (left). and monotone sh.adings dampening it (right) .
The econd approach re,olvcs around highlighting each face by repeating one or more of its
natmal pig111ents i.n the colors vvern below.
Starting with the first principle-while the rainbow of 's complexions encom-
passes a great variety oF shadings. tlle field can be scaled dow11 into tvVG basic formats: cont rast
or muted. ff your hair is dark and your skin light . you have a contrast complexion. If your hair
and skin toiiC arc similar, your complexion vvould be considered muted. or
Having now matriculated into one oF t he t\VO prevai ling male color -Fraternities, you
might \1\rondcr how such a diversit-y of facial a1id hai r colors can be so neatly djvided into .just
t'NO p.rofi lc?s. Although me mbership in the- contrast club. substanti<:lUy outnumbers that of the
muted. both complexion types cotJt.'lin one important subgroup. The higher- contrast contin-
gcotshares the spotligbnvith the medium- contrasts. 'vh.ile the hmelight partl y shad-
owed by the Light-b rights.
ln an effort to simplifj' the subject our
discus.sion will be limired to the more graphic
dark-light differential. Sirice relativel y few men
have knm:vlcdge.or experience in this area.
if the reader can cmne avvayvvith a rudiment;,uy
understanding of the larger conrrasr pic-
ture. he '".UJ be ahead of the pack.
Look at invigorated
facial tones as they interact wi th hi$ bl,ick-
and-\1\rhi.tc t<egaUa. \iVbe11 a m.an's
skin and hair tones are in such powerful Goun-
t.erpo:int to each other. surrounding t bern vrith
contrast ing colors of equal strength serves to
en I ive n the fan:-'s tural vitality. Converse! y,
tht e. dampened drama oP Mr. rower's
visage when Yisited by the monotone shadings
ofl1is tonal khaki turnont.
Alternatively .. \Voody Allen's muted
colmtenance of sandy haj r and fair-toned skin
requires the nurturi ng effect of a softer. more
monotoned color for mat. as provided by his
be1ge polo shi n. Encasing a low- intensit-y
compl exion vvithin a hi gher-contrast setti ng
di.lures the face's natural pigmen in
addition to di stracting the viewer's eye. As
cOITtpl exions are over-
lvhclmcd by aggressive color CO(.Wdi nation,
these ski 11 tortes demand more attentLOlJ and a
-
vVoody Allen uses black eyeglasses to call attention to.
his low-fntensity complexion.
21

OF COLOR.
22
DRESS 1 NG
THE M AN
lighter touch. And because d1e man with a complexion of average conbast can tolerate J fu ller
range of color coordination than hi muted counterpart. he also enjoys more latitude and mar-
gin of er ror with colors.
The photograph below illustrate<; the importance of such color strategies. llere are two
models with different complexions but at-rired in the same outfit. \t\lith the fairer- hai red man,
because of his tonal complexion, the necktie's stark black and white stripes jump out. jarring the
eye and leading it away fiom his face. Conversely. with the darker-haired model. the necktie
high..,conua.st format actually invites the eye to look at his face because of its compatibility \Vith
his black hair and light skin.
Learning color management can produce immedi ate cLvidends. Take the example of a
light-complexioned man in pursuit of the classic navy blazer. Armed \\'ith the knowledge that the
blacker the bl azer. the more it will contrast wid1 and thus weaken his lighter cornplexion. he will
concern himself only \Vith brighter. rjcher- hued blues. By cirnm1scribing his range of choices, he
will not on.l y save time but be rewarded with a superior purchase.
Same outfit, d{fferent
On the lift, your eye goes to the tie;
on the right, you1' eye goes to the face.

The second color technique Focuses on the enhancen1ent of the face through repetition of
one or more of its rones in the apparel. This principle c::m equently be found inform-
ing the presentation of ari art piece or the choice of eyeglasses. A pjcttue tnatting or frame \Viii often
be selected just to highlight one of rhe painting's key colors. Sim.iJarly. a blond man rends to opt for
gold-toned spectacles. "1Ule the salt-and-pepper brow favors the more silver- roned rims.
The early menswear magazines thought it was i m portan r that a man know the wl1 ys
and \vhereForcs of proper complexion and dothing coordination. Take this gent with brmvn
hair and a slight ruddiness to his face (below lift) . Following the second technique's. imperatives,
;
tht:: ob\ious choice of suit shade would be that which repeated his hair color. thereby drawing
the ob t.:rver's attu1rion to vvhat was bracketed in between- in other words. his face. The fasl1-
ion editor employL'd the same logic relative to the necktie-it's no coincidence that the tie's
reddish GISt just happen to pick up its wearer's ruddy facial pigmentation.
By sponing a scarf around his neck in the same pale bu.e as his ashen skin and hair tone,
this next gL'Ilt vouchsafes that hi s visage won't vanish from view (below righ0. And to prove that
Echoi11g the hairs color w1der the face
does wonders for ones complexion.
Ti-f. POWER.
Of COLOR
24
DRESSTNG
Tlf E M,iN
the rradition of augmenting one's facial coloring transcends even social station, here'$ the fut urt'
hng of England coloni.zi ng his auburn- tin ted face i 11 a sea of rubescent
Eye color fo1Jows skin and hair as the next most i mponanr faci:J11ndicawr. especial ly
\Nhen a man .happens to lo0k out behind the baby blues of a P:c1LJ Ne'vvman or a Frank S.inat.Ja.
Nothing brings. an azure-eyed countenance into 1noreengagingfocns than a bluc-tcmed shirt OT
1 ike- hued necktie cavorting just below the chjJJ.
The last facjal feature to consider is any special p-igment like rosy cheeks o r suntanned
ski n. Tn trying to enhance the face's glmv and primacy, t he ide;1 is t o pl Hy up such colorations. br
keying them to apparel in close proximity. such as a scar necktie. or spon shirt. Because the
bPo.nzed dc,1fkcr hue increases its level of clothing colors should be stepped up
incremCJ1taLi y in strength. This is 011e re<:tson why warm-weather dimes te nd to bring Gtlt the
peacock i11 a man.
Captured jn the auhtmn of his life. here's our man 11oni F1ed Astaire. stilJ chore-
ographing himself into sa.r-tOt'iai.PerFection. t hat age lightens one's hair and skin tone.
fred enacts the f in:>t color strategy by :1dopring a muted toupee with tonal clothes to type. I-J is pale
blue Brooks button-down and soft- hued tweed jacket ensure that his remain cente r stage.
rlumbi.ng the second techniqLlC typic:l! Astaire pomp.11e highlights his cheeks' slight pinkish-
ness. with a lilac scuf and pocket sqLtarc.
Let's look at some typical in;:-tle
comple-xions to see Jm,..v these color
ted1.11iques can be ;:-tpplied to improve
them. Think of rhe 'fuce as tbe plcttlre
and the clothes as their frame. \.Vhik t he
Fn.u11e should be <.lt[racdve in i.ts o\vn
right, its primary funcri01'J is to help
the viewer's eye on thatwbich it contains.
\Vich a neLLtral- mned subject. the fnu11e
needs to recede ihto -rhe background
vvithour its ability :co def1ne t he
<;ontent's borders. \i\/ith a more graphic
subject the fr:!une must bcsrrongenough
to delineate its wit hoLtt dis-
ttacting from it.
P::lQSITE & RIGHT:
Proper and
rlriug coordihatio1t-
Fml r\staire and
thr P ince cifvvales
nliuate colors with their
lwrr and skin tones
wnce their appeara11ce.
25
THE POWE R
OF C O LO R
TREVOR: MEDIUM CONTRAST
.........,.._sa medium=-contrasr complexion, Trevor e nj ors the most latitude of any type rela-
tive to his selection of clothing colors. AJthough still darkJy stylish. Trevor's black hair and
sw;.uthy skin appear almos t in shadow when framed by the monoroned gray ensemble (above
The lack of opposition between the gray suit and gray chess sh in underpl ays the higher
of counterpoint found iJl Trevor's Face above.
No\\' observe vvhat happens when the gray shirt i replaced by\\'hire. The relief yielded
by its lightness against the suit's d:uker background illuminates Tre,or's face and skin. The
tonall y accessori zed suit makes his tanned skin look lackluster: the high-contrast one makes it
glisten. Because of his hair and skin's substantial distinction. Ti:evor .is ft:ee to expet'iment \>Vith
almost an)' medium-to-strong color coordination. confident in the knovvledgc that it can onl y
strengt hen his own complexion.
FUMIHII(O: HIGH CONTRAST
__ om pared to the rainbow of European complexions. the classic FarIa tern coloring is
generall y confined to one high- contrast fornl-at-lighr skin and dark hair. Here's a handsome
represcmativc. Although he is \Vel! rurned out by most sartorial standards. Fum ihi.ko's mono-
chromatic coord.ination can never fully underscore the boldness of. hi s hi gh-contrast complex-
ion. Like t he dampening effect of l)Tone Power's klutki outfit shown earli er. its sobriety
actuall y diminishes the drama w1folding (below lift).
However. set sud1 dynamic good looks amid the garnishment of a blue-bodied dress
shirt with contra ting collar. dark na,y suit. and ada hing burgundy siH< necktie and.
presto. resplendence results, All it took vvas a si mpl e change of facial scenery to t ransform
funiihiko from pedestrian to prince.
27
TH E P OWER
OF C O LOR
28

TilE MAN
JOHN: MUTED COMPLEXION
--
I though less graphic in content. d1e mured or toned ,isagc demands more ,-igilancc
and skill to enliven. Due ro irs lower tolerance (or roo noi.'i'' or m erl\' qLtiet color mixes, the
' J
muted trpc ill\ ites anonymity iF not handled \Yith nppmpriate care.
Just as vvatercolors need c.1 lighter frame to complement whc.1t thcr enclose, so docs
]ohJ1's low- key fran tage. 'vVi thou t a cOJl rrasting dark hair sh;..1de tO coun terbalancc the opposi -
rion underneath. John's muted complexion is bullied into submission br the starkness of his
black-and-\\ bite outfit (bclull'
J\lternati,eJy. \Vben rhc less contrasti ng warmer shadings of his rvvo- tonc sport jacket
and knit shirt enter the picture. suddenly. Jolu1's dough)' skin shade picks up luster whiJe the tint
of his hair color gajns promi.nence. Once ;:t.gain, whcneve1 the face can be bracketed below in
the color as the crop above. it's bound tO end up t:hc clear beneficiary.
Q



..
0
II
0
EDWIN: LIGHT-BRIGHT
( of your clorhcs-e\Cll il they arc exquisite!) Or luxuri ous to the touch-
make rour hKc look more dulled and aged than orhcrs. it certainly because their colors arc
probabl) incompatible " irh your o" n. Ed"u1 is a pcd"c:ct case in poi nt.
J\ s ment ioned earlier. k1w-contrast complexions ,,re highl r susceptible to Further \\'ash-
ing out by cateless color-co.ordinarion!-1. Edwin need$ ro pa) !-lpecial artcnrlon to those cDiots
capabl e oF siphoning off additional pigmentation from his fair skin and bl o11d - turn ing-whire
hair. ln the left picture. Edwin wears a midnight na') ;;uir "irh a pale blue dress shirt. The suit's
near- black shade ol na'}' coupled \\'ith the icc blue dress -;birr" ork to drain color from his face.
In the picture to the right. r dwi n's dark 11:.1\)' suit lw-. been changed to a brighter. \\'(l l'1llCr
shade of l1<1V) ' " hi le t he cool blue of his dress shirt is now a dL'cper shade ofblue. Although the dif-
ference is subtl e. with richer tones now throwing more :ll"oli nd his 1:.,ce. [dwin's blue eyes
sudden!) to lil"c. and his ashen skin appears Bush and in,igoratccl his tic pulling his
hair color into the mix his pocket reinforci.ng his eye shade. the OYeraJJ
is mcasurabl) ad,a.nced.
30
DRESS CNG
THE NiAN
ALEX: LIGHT BRIGHT AND BLOND
norher classic male complexion is fair skin crowned with golden
blond hair. Once again. the surest \vay to ensure your visage its rightFul due
is to buck it up with the relevant pagcanrry a exemplified by these two
fas h.ion plates (right) . whose spott jacket and suit ensembles cl early publkize
rhei r gil ded crowns.
Likewise. AJex. who has built his dressing St}'le around hjs distinc-
riYe coloring. makes sure at least one item in each ensemble reflects his
gold-toned c01nplexion. In his fir t outfit (belo11' left). Alex looks classy. yet
nor enlightened. since his white shirt and bold striped tie do little to
enhance his specially-hued cotmtcnance. In his next. by pressing in to sen'-
ice an array of colors more congenial to his own. he elevates his face to a
higher level of stylish ophistication. As long as Alex continues to wreathe
himself with those v1arm golds. rusts. and browns found in his hair. his face
vvill remain center srage.
TOM: MEDIUM CONTRAST
hen rou are as debonclir as Tom here, there is an abLmdance of riches to work with.
lll<lking it a chaJienge to rendc.r him in sub- par raiment. 1 lis plaid LLit"s Ughr- and-dark pattern
synch ronizes well with Toni's ovvn medium-contrast features. His conntenance would suggest
t:i tarting with a bl.ue dress shirt to play up his bespectacled orbs of cobalt blue, and redd ish or
burgundy necbvear to vvork the same magic on his sl ighdy ruddy skin ron e.
Although Tom's no slouch when swathed iJ1 this first combination o-f somber gray shirt
and maroon necktie (above l c j ~ that look pales by comparison when juxtaposed ro the next one.
Things can't help but perk up when a strong blue hade of shirt and a ,ery pink tie are lobbed
into the proceedings. Once again. echoing skin tone and eye sh:1dc i_n clothing helps lift the face
from smart to smarter.
AFRICAN AMERICAN:
MEDIUM TO HIGH CONTRAST
rymg to apply the contrast- muted paradigm to the
African-American compl exion requites .so me expl anation.
T he fact char the ave rage Afri can-American face. vvhether
black or light brov\TI, cx.h_ibits little contrnst between its bajr
and ski n tone \\,.ouJd seemingly qual if)' ir as a mttted faciaJ type.
I lowe,cr. when a dark face. regardl ess of shade. is smrounded
b) a white shirr. considerable conrrasr results. Therefore. for
che African-Amerj can man to get the most our of his clothing
combi nations. he shoLJd approach t he enterprise as a medium-
to high-contrast compl exion, the degree of which is dictated b)
his indi,iduaJ fa(e's relative depth of color.
Ralph Lauren didn't put the black modcll)rson Beck-
ford (cJppositc) in this highest of high-contr:lSt mamlt::s because oF
his bh. 1nd countenance. Beck:ford,s ext remely da rk skin produces
nemendous contrast with any clothing colot. Th.crcforc. the
brighter and more dramatic the shadt: ofhi s clothing, the better
he looks and the more radi&omt his skin tone .
... tepping down one rung on the contrast ladder. t his
nc:-;:t man's medjum- brown faciaJ rones do not produce che
same tark effect as Beckford's. Conscquenrl): for rhis medium-
contrast compl exion. choosing clothes with a definite, but not
deafening. intensity vvott.ld be appropriate. Integrating his strik-
ing blue ercs into his ensemble is certainl y a good way to start
Thi.-: third African-American man's skin shade is yet
another gradation down in cont rast, making his well-chosen

sport jacket and matching T-shi rt ham1011 ize graccFuJJ y wit h his
coloring. lf one were holding up each of the rhrce model s, ski n
tones against :1 white hirt. the amount or cont rast yielded
would provide a dependable yardstick for determining rhe ideal
amount or contrast that should be likewise used in the clothes.
DRESS I N'G
THE Jvl r\ N
lnappropriateJy scaled clothing is d1e root cause for the contemporary m;.m 's current
bck of sartori al distinction. Obsolescence in mens" ear is built upon the manipulation of the
classic proportions. sometimes in vYays thar do nor flatter. as flared bottoms, o,erly "houldcrcd
jackets. and quare- toed shoes attest.
lt is said that the quaLity of a chef can be judged b) his consomme. Likewise. a man's
dressing skill rests on his ability ro wea r the simplest clothes to iJldividual perfection. This is
essentiall y a in proportion. T he rirst step in evolving <l distinctive yet long- rer111 dress ing
Sl) tlc Fo1 each man to master t he st<.U1dni'd scheme of tai lored suit white dress shirt. solid
neckti e. \vhitc pocket sqnare. wit h dnrk socks and shoes. This is not to suggest that he adopt
such formul aic attire. aJrhough ir ca n come in handy for certain
\Nhil e this cl assic outfit docs not constitute a stud) of all possjble dressi ng proportions.
its curri culum is fundamental to moving up ro the next level of sartorial sophistiGltion. The
relevance oF this specific s:;t.rtorial paradigm is that'' ithin it resides a series of mini - portraitures.
which. when knowledgeably rendered. fo rm <1 choreography oF ideal dressing proportions unique
to each man. Once fumi l iar with how best to exploit each for maximum personal ad\ an one
can usc them <:lS the blueprint for futLu-c explorations. As stated earlier. genuine innoya-
tion has aJ\\'ays taken place with an awareness. 1ather than ignorance. of restraints.
Breaking down this ensemble into a corporeal map. you discover that in order to tra-
verse it smartl y. fi ve major intersecti ons must be negotiated-the neck, shoulder. waist, wri st.
and ankle. Each contclins a network of lines and curves that when correctly connected to oil e
another enhances the overall aesthetic. Applying rhc whys of its collar decor to you r face. or
jacket lcngd1 to your body, improves ) our for less ritualistic rai_ment. such as
or casual attire.
Fortu natcly, the face's hape. the neck's heigh r. the shoulder' width. the arms length.
the rorso's structure. and the fOot's size remain fairly constant oYer time. eYen allowing for .. ome
weighr Auctuation. Unlike fashion. which is obliged to change seasonallr learning hm' to
well docs not have to be a case of stalking a constant!)' mO\ ing targer. Confining one's
focus to those physical characteristics found betvvcc n hat and ho c will faci litatc one's masterr of
,-;calc and proporti on. Once these rul es of for m rdati ng to his own unique physiognolll)'
arc understood. a man has every reason to feel confident about gctti ng his arms around th is stuff
Ler's examine in more depth the archi tectural logic and fashion rationale at work here.
THE SUIT JACI<ET
llil c fj,brics and patterns usuc, tll y attract the C) e first. the suit's anchor ir
in time. r\ $Llit c:..xneme in si lhouette is more likely to go out of srrlc bd()r(' it falls apart. ]Jl
assl:'ssing cl suit jacket's potential Life !'pan. (i,e clements of design require j:mrticuJar attenti on:
these arc the garment's "bones." SJ1ould the co;,1t's architecture confl ict '"ith that of rhc
or d.eyiatc too far from rhc archetype. the coat's staying pov\er wi ll be significantly vveakencd.
THE JACKET S HOULD.ER .1\s its widest dimension. the shoulder sets the mood lu r the
rest of the jacket. Si nee t he jacket's shou1ders ft;;une the head. if they are n1o nat-row. the head
\Viii appear larger t han actL.t <l l size: conversely; iF cut too wide. the head wil l appear dispropor-
tionatcly small. Notice the differeti.e in the shoulder expression between Dollg )!'.'s sui,t
and that of 1\lastct C-. ary (Jnlfo,Pingpage) . Doug's shoulders arc built up to offset his wider het1d,
v.rhlk Cc:H)p's arc nJ.rrovv t.Uld more .slt1ped to h;,lnnoJlizc" ith his thiJlJler face and Jo.nger fr;:tmc.

SHOULDERS CUT TOO WIDE
DIMINISH TH'E HEAD.
THE CORRECT
WIDTH PRQPQRTION.
S.HOULDERS CUT TOO NA RROW
MAKE THE HEAD APPEAR
LARGER i'HAN IT IS .
., -
) /
P ROPORTJON
ABOVE LEFT:
Douglas Fairbanks]r.s shoultlers are built u.p to his wider head.
ABOVE RIGHT:
Gary Cooper's shoulders a.re narrow and sloped to balance with his
thin.foce and narrow .fiarne.
OPPOSITE:
Dean Acheson in a natural-shoulder suit silhouette.
The nant lal -shouldcr suit udopted by the h')' Leaguers in the J9'0s came to
be identified "ith America's upper class and irs pruxipal puneyor. Brooks Brothers. Here is
the late secrcrarr oF state Dean I \cheson i 11 L) pi cal New England his Brooks
Bmthcts naturaJ shoulder :.111d fullr roll ed butron-dovvn vvhi spering thei r patrician provenance.
Compare his row1dcr sleeYeheads with those lightl y pu[Ced and contoured confections
.;;marring up Gaq Cooper's shoulders.
L.Jn less a mc.u1 is extreme!) slope-shouldered or so self-consciously short that he \\ants
hio.; shoulder line ro produce :.u1 ill.usion height. sharply a_ngled or co.nsp.icuously buil.t-
up j<lcketshoulders should be The)' look artifici<.ll and arrivi st e in taste. s1gnaling that
their wearer i to appear rnore imporranr than he feels.
39
PROPORTION
40
DRESS ING
Tl-11: M AN
JACKET LENGTH The principal criteri on go\'ern ing a jacket"s length is that it be long
enough to cover the cLu-varure of the buttocks while giving the leg as long a line a..;; possible.
the ideal measurement of a man's jacket can \"<try b) up to
1
2 inch -vvithout compro-
mising Its any more variation play havoc v:ith t he hip pockets by mo\' ing t hem out
oC proper balance with the ''hole. It is quite t1ormal for a jacket to be lightly longer in front
than back i 11 order to hang properlr
Due to the longer ::;wathlngs of the 1980s, d1c so-caiJed Armani era. the m8jority of
men wear their jacket and jacket sleeves far too long. +o rcshorrening both their legs and arms.
This is cspeciall r evident in the Far East. where the aYerage person's torso is longer in relation
to his legs. in compari son to the average person's build in the \ Vest uch a man needs to pay
particular attention ro his jacket's .l ength to help him reproportion his longer torso with his
RIGHT:
The longjacket
diminishes the
mans leg line.
.JACKET LENGTH
IN RELATION TO
THE TORSO:
DIVIDE IN HALF THE
DISTA NCE FROIVI THE
COLLAR' S SEAM
TO THE FLOOR.
'

..JACKET LENGT11 IN
RELATION TO THE ARM:
.JACKET'S BOTTOM
SHOULD LINE UP WITH
THUMB KNUCKLE.
barter leg ]j ne. In t he illustration on the previous page, examine the length of the jacket and irs
diminishing effect on the man's leg line.
methods for determining the correct jacket length originated '"'ith America's devel -
opment of ready-made men's clothing, which needed general guidelines upon which ro establish
lts standards of fi t. T he first employs the arm as a guide; when your is dropped at your side.
the bottom of the jacket is uppo ed to line up with the outstretched thumb (above lifi). Though
generally reliable. this formul a has one drawback: arm length vari.es f rom person to person.
T he second approach (previous measures the distance from the jacket's back collar
(at the pointvvhere it joins t be coat's body) to t be1ioor. vvJ1id1 Ls t hen divided i n half This is the
procedure taught in most tailoring schools. Either of these two approaches can be influenced by
dimensions unique to the wearer; a top t ailor will use neither. trusting his practiced eye to t ake
in the whole picn.ue before deciding on the jacket's ideal length.
THE WAI ST BUTT 0 N T he '"'aist button is to a suit jacket what the fulcrum is to a see-
saw. If incorrectly positioned. a delicate balance is lost, calling the garment's pedigree into
immediate question. The button functions as an axis: raise it too much. and the torso become
abbreviat ed: lower it too much, and the torso is elongated at the expense of a longer leg line.
vVhen the waist button of a coat is fastened. it should di\'ide the body so that the torso
and legs appear at maximum length. Observe the navy suit's elegant silhot.tette by following the
4J
PROPORTION
The placeme11.t of the coat's waist butto11 should divide the body
so th.at the torso an.d 'legs appear at ma.x1num length.
I i 11e riom its trouser bottom up to the jacket's
waistline. The nousen;' Ful lness smoothes the
transition between the botton1 top h::Jves
of the s uit, stretching out the overall Figure. and
the coat's W3ist button ple1cer1ient enhances the
iUusion of along lcghne \Vh ile bel ping to ;,trticu-
late its inhabitant's chest an<;! shoLJders.
The correct pJaccmcn:t of crirjca.l
detail occurs V2 inch bdow the nat ural wai::;t. To
find your natural waist. place your hands aroLmd
the smallest part of yow torso and then pre..lls
dowt'1 at the sides into the hollm" above the hip-
bone. t his all - important burton func-
tions as the coat's center point, a top a,ile
Rm"-trJined tai lor wii J grab the waist button in
the- final fitting and puU it from side to side to
tna.ke sure the coat has enough room to move
gracefully on the body.
ln an effott to dd8ng the overly
tai lored SLUt jacket. along v,rith culling its guts
out Giorgio Armani lowered .its vvaistlinc and
extended its Although he a more
Huid-looking jacket with differellt feeL
he doomed h,is early low-waisted along
with their numerou." wannabes, to lives of quiet
obsolescence in their ovvners' closet$. (Of coLusc.
tbanl.s to Giorgio. J.ll tailored clothing is much
more nowadays. llls positive im,lo-
vations, on babn(e. transcended any
excesses.)
THE GORGE AND LAPEL WIDTH
The gorge 'is d1at point 'vhe1e colbr :md lapd
meet to form either ;,i stepUke "notch.. or a
pointed 'peak'' The positioning of t he
gorge on cbc chest shotdd be a li.mctiori of
one's build. not fashion! Dwp it too low. and t h.e
tr.uncatcd lapel 's line makes chc short man appear
shorter and the hea,y n1an look. heavier. If he is
short. a man's lapel notches should sit higher up
Gar)' Cooper's lapels play down. his height.
on his chest. the longer lapel line emphasizing
, crticality. As Coop's lm,er-sitting peaked
bpds illustrate. the taller man's lapel notches
GU1 rest a bit lmver in the d1e t area, condens-
ing the upper bodis length 'IYhilc extending
breadth. 1\.vem:y years ago. this clement of
rhc coat's design rarely came into question.
I lowever. once again, \VhiJe i njcctlng more
svvagger into the conventional man-tai lored
jacket Armani and other lovvcred irs lapel
gorges along with its waistline. loosening un
t..: \.. L,.l c i
both its classic demeanor and it hold on styl-
ish longcYi ry.
In order for a buttoned suit jacket's
v" opening to smooth!)' escotT rhe Yie\\'er's
ere LIP\\ ';lJ'd toward the EKe. t he jacket's lapels
c.md the neckrie's width shOLdd harmonize.
i nee the bread:tb of the jacket's shoulder
guidcs its lapel width. a broad-shouldered
man will nattlrally regLtiJe a -fLl ll cr lapel For
proper balance. Like the singlc- bteastcd
norchc!' on Gary Cooper's three-button (sec
page 38) or on Dean Acheson's n,o- burton
coar (sec page 39 ). the single-breasted lapel
should cover between !\Yo-fifths to th rce-
fi frhs of the d istancc bet\Yecn the jacket's
chest and shoulder line. \\'hich usual!} results
in the average notch lapel measuring from
33/s inches to -+
1
.4 inches in '"idth.
\.Vhile peaked lapels need more
breadth to accommodate their upsweep
design, the) should nor be so broad as to
become conspicuous, such as those gracing
Doug Jr.'s chest page 38). ln the itwari-
ably dapper \lr. Fairbanks's case, his dra-
matic shaped lapd::. fall more into the arena
of period stde than of cle:L"sic taste.
43
PROPORTION
The proper tapering on the jacket sleeve.
THE JACKET SLEEVE Properly cut jacket sleeves
lend a oim, wel l-formed grace to the arm. Full at the
top. or sleevehead. and tapering down to the vvrist bone,
rhe sleeve's converging lines should conform to the
broad shoulder and narrowing waist of the jacket.
leeves that flap around the wrist not only Jack smart-
ness, but give the illusion of heft.
The b;md of line11 between jacket sleeve and
hand is yet another styli stic gestwe associated with
the we'l l-turned-out man. lt used ro be said that a
jacket sleeve vvi thout a bit of visible shirt cuff below
made the hand appear as if part of it were missing.
THE SUIT TROUSER
,_,., ul t trousers should extend the line of the jacket.
Fuller-chested jackets require fuller-cut trousers. just as
more fitted jackets mandate trouser.
The proportions of today"s average suit have recovered
from the hip-hugging jeans mentality of the sixties and
the tight. low-waisted seventies fashions of the Pierre
Cardin era. Today. most suit trousers are pleated for
comfort with a longer rise, allmving them to reside at
the wearer's actual \vaisr. and full er at the knee than bot-
tom. follovving the natural line of the body
LLke the navy blue suit trousers seen earlier
and the gray flannGJ ls of thistrayeler sui t
trousers shoLtld be worn on the wa.ist. not on the hip.
Not only does the waist then appear smal ler, but by
raising the trousers' fuiJ ness, it can better filJ up the
jacket's bottom opening, thereby lengthening the
overall figure.
45
PRO PORTION
Suit trousers should extend
the Une ofthe jacket thereby
le?1gthe11ing the overallfigure.
DRESSING
Tl:l t JV1AN
THE DRESS Sl--IIRT
ust as the suit frames the collar. maki:ng it tile Focal point of the shirt. t he shin coll ar fl:ames
face. mal<i ng it the of the ensembl e. The choice of a dress shirt should be guided
first and foremost by the appropriateness of its coll.ar sbape to that of the \Vea.rer's Face. Think
0J the face as cr pi cture ;;md t he collar as its lran:1 c. A small pi cture requires a Like-.scaled frame.
just as. a small er m::1n vvith delicate features rtc'g uireS a collar of rcstra..ined dimensions. CGn-
Yerscly. the content is more expansh e. t he frame nu,Jst <;o rrespondingl r enlarge.
THE NECI(TIE
he necktie's correct width has always been determined by t he jacket's lapel. A man \Vitb
narrov, shoulde rs has. less chest to drape a lapel across; therefore. the lapel's narrmvcr d..i me n-
sian dictates that ti e vvidth foll ow suit Conversely. a n'lm1 requires the sery-
ices of a .more geneL9us lapel and rhus a nc_cktie. As the cwerage
notch lapel ranges .in '\:'iridt h fro1u 33/s inches to inches_ at'!. equivalent ran.geoFhottom \Vidths
:..Yill l m1i1uJil.ze most neckti.es from the Yagari esof high fash iort.
T he secret of t ie aesthetics lies u1 compress-
ing tJ1e knot so that it can dovetail high up into the
inverted "V" of the collar's co1werging side . To
enha11ee its staying povver, adimple or inverted pleat
shoul.d em from under the middle of rhc knot. If
the tyi11g procedure is not executed -v,rith an eye
t O\l\:ard producing a taut knot. the knot will not have
the necessary spring to arch out f ron1 the coll ar.
Jnstead of looking crisp and distinguished. it will
hang like a fish. w'ldermioingthe coin position's
dignity. \tVith tbe preferred fmtr-i.n-hand smanlr
wedged higl1 into the collar and irs din1pJe lined np
directly under tlle upside-dm:vn "V" po.int of the
collar, a plumb une is formed, convey-
ing aut hority on the part_ as one who is i 11
con1mand of his own stvle.
J
Necktie wid'th should relate to lapel width.
THE POCI<ET HANDI<ERCHIEF
would be bard-pressed to find a pi entre of the Duke of \Nindsor. Fred re. or
any well -dressed Adam from the th irties in which some form of pocket square was not i11 e\i-
dencc. The Last American politician to be considered St) I ish. President John F. ken ned). ne,cr
left the \Vhite J Jousc in a suit jacket sans pocket linen. Although most men arc intimidated by
st1ch vcsdgial raiment. no man can consider hi mscll. an elegatlte vd thou.t knowing how to rig out
the simple white pocket square.
Bur in terms of proportion. one way to en.surc a n:-ttural effect is to angle the hank out-
w:;trd toward the shoulder. with its points irregularly arranged. \
1
Vhcn worn Vlell. this eye cue of
sartorial refinement can add more than just polish: br echoing the slant of the jacket's lapel. it
rei nforces the breadth of the v .. chest ellld upper body. Jean Cocteaus casually fuded
pocket hank and unfurled jacker cuffs were trademarks of his unique dcg;:tgc dressing style.
PROPORTJON
DRESSING
THE M AN
THE TAILORED ANI<lE
om hat crease to trouser cuff. the
art of male habiliment can be divided into
a series of mini -portraitures. the most
southern being the rendezvous of trouser.
hose. and shoe. To effect a permanently
smart aesthetic below one's knee. certain
rules of proporti.on must be respected.
Once again, it is the body rather
than fashion that should rake the lead-
the general rule of thumb being that the
trouser bottom shoul.d cover about two-
thirds of the shoe. Narrow trouser bot-
toms make large feet loom even larger.
while wide trouser bottoms make a small
foot appear even smaller.
This symmetry in scale between
trouser bottom and shoe remains an
immutable linchpin of permanent fash-
ion. Just like the slipper-type evening
shoe vvorn under cufBess formal dress
trousers. the round- or slightly- quare-
toed oArford. or blucher lace-up with a
welt-constructed sole. ranks as the id.eaUy
proportioned shoe for suit-driven attire.
The shoe's leaner line is enhanced by its
beveled waist. the center portion of the
sole that joins the heel to the toe. a feature
of all dress shoes as opposed to the square
waist used for stouter outdoors types. like
the Norwegian modeL The si_nuousness
of the shoe's form suggests its dressieJ"
intentions. whil e its sturdi er (nonglued)
"Welted soles offer the correct balance
under the weightier-appearing cufffed
trouser bottoms. For n1ore on shoes,
please see chapter 1 o. "foot Deconm1."
Trouser bottoms should harmon.ize with shoe scale.
PROPORTION AND BODY TYPE
hether short or tall. port1) or lim. most men
aspire to look lil<e some idealized vcr ion of themselves.
Although the model male fashion fi gure has changed
over time, fo1 the past eighty or so years the principal goal
has been to affect a tall. red, slim-waisted
appearance. Therefore. that archetypal physique \viii
serve as a reference point for the principles that follow
The rules for downplaytng girth or maximiz-
ing height can be helpfuL but they should always be
viewed as a guide rather than as dogma. There are m.any
well-turned-out men who consistently dress against
type. I can recall one portly patron of New York's
famous ' 21'' Club sitting down ro lunch in a butky
three-piece hetland vvool sLLit tailored out of the most
enormous estate plaid. "Wbjle its sc:oue violated every
canon of aJ1atom ical logic. the man looked positively
regal because of its impeccable cut and customized fit.
Back in the t1uxties. no group of swells was
alleged to have exuded more collective swank than the
Brazilian diplomati.c corps. Contrary to conventional wis-
dom that swore short men off double-breasted jad<ets,
these 5 feet. 7 inch ple1,jpotentiades not only preferred
their lounge suits double,. breasted but also finished than
off with another sartorial no-no: leg-shorte1,jng cuffs.
America's own guru of gesm.ral elegance. hoofer Fred
Astaire, alway sported cuffed uousers, and he stood
barely 5 feet 9 inches.
Dressing for your body type is a subject pep-
pered with misguided prescriptions and arcane rules.
For example, heavy men are advised to avo.id double-
breasted jacket , supposedly because they add bLJk.
However, j n reality, if the jacket's peaked lapels roll
below the waist, their long diagonal slant will do more
for a man's avoirdupois than any line produced by the
single-breasted model. Similar!)' triped suits, which
tend to elongate the figure. should not be automatically
The long-rolled, double-breasted lapel can
dow11play girth and maximize height.
)0
DRESS ING
TilE M .AN
NORTJ-1 AND SOUTH LINES
HELP THE 5'H0RT, STOUT MAN
A PPEAR TALLER AND T t; I NNER ..
eliminated from contention just because a
man is talJ. The important thing is for the
cale and strength of the stripes tO harmo-
nize \Vith the particular body t) pc: narrmv-
to mediLtm-spaced stripes for the thin
physique; slightl y broader less pro-
nouJKed lines for the fLLIIet' figure.
SCALING THE HEI GHTS:
TIPS FOR SH ORT, HEAVY MEN
vVithout question, correctly cut clothes can
definitely aid t he short, stout man in
appearing taller J.nd thinner. \1\lhen an
ensemble's north and south lines begin to
replace those preYiously moving cast and
west. tl1ev sb-etch out and narrow the cor-
,
pulenr physigue. To .elongate the figure. the
eye needs to be distracted from the vvaistline
and led north to the shoLdders a.nd south
belo'v d1c knee$.
vVhether tall or short, the hca\'icr man. much like the thjn rnan, should always drc.ss
"large." Jacket shoLdd be cut with tra.ight-hanging or slighrly shaped body lines so the)' appear
to hang loose from the shoulder downvvard. Close- fitting clothes reveal more than rhey con-
ceal. There is nothing like the look of a stuffed ausage to call attention to a man' heft.
In general. short men are short. physiologically speaking. because their legs arc propor-
tionally short in relation ro their tor o. Therefore, for a jacket to endo\\' such a physique" irh
the illusion of greater height. it must create the jmpression that the leg Jine is actuall y longer
than it really is. To accornplish this. the jacket's length needs to be kept on the short ide, vvhich
is tricky. because the coat's length must remain as short as poss ible ?-nd yet cover the seat or hi s
prlnts. If too short. the jacker \viii saw him in half; if too long, it\vill abbreviate rhe appearance
of his legs.
Along with a shorter coat. the torso can be optically elevated by raising its shoulder
line. The slightly higher shm.Jdcr give the added illusion of elevating the torso while elongat-
ing the leg line. Tllis is not to recomrnend squaring the shoulder. since you want to a,oid the
appearance of two right angles bracketing the head. Ninery-degree angle, punctuating the head
of any height-challenged man only emphasie th:lt which be wants to diminish- his phrsique's
lack of stantcsque distance from the grow1d.
The nvo-button jacket with a medium "V" that opens down ro the
waist is more Hattcring to the short figure than the higher. closed fronts of d1e tlu-ee- button coat.
quat figures should jackets with stubby or hoLT- rolled lapels. because they accentuate
breadth. Thj.s includes the low-gorge designs
of recent fashion. Lapd notchc for the
short-legged should rest high on the upper
chest. for a longer lapel 1 iJ1e. Peaked lapels
with their upsv.rept. pointed ends accentuate
verticality more than the notched ,ariery:
Jacket sleeves should finish to show a half
ir1ch of shirt cuFf: this heips balance off the
sleeve and shorter jacket length. The coat'
sleeve should taper down to the wrist bone.
so there is no e\.cess material jangling about
the hand. creating unnecessary bulk.
Ianting lines minimize
Take the double- breasted jacket: whatever
extra thickness the double- breasted's over-
lapping layer of cloth may add across the
midsection. the slimming effect of its asym-
metrical lapels more than com pen, ates for it.
The DB's dia,gonal ly runni11g lapels lead the
eye from the center of the torso, and
their upcurving pointed ends elongate and
-
THE WELL-CUT DOUBLE-BREASTED COAT'S
SLANTING L INES HELP SLIM ALL BODY TYPES.
narrow the amc. Addi.ti onaJly, the classic si.x-on-two double- breasted create an additional "V"
effect the r=ront of the jacket. which helps sculpt the torso and slim the \Vaist.
\Vh.cn it comes to jacket derailing, less is more. Extra like the change pocket, tend
to bulk up and horten lines. ( unlhppcd) hip pockets create less thickness and
clutter than the Aapped vari er)'. although the hacki ng (slanted) Aap pocket can chisel av\'a)'
breadth frorn the hip. Flap pockets are preferable to the patch design. whose ex,rra layer of fab-
ri c adds heft.
Like irs front. the back of this body t) pc's ideal coat should promote a straighter line by
nging Erom the shOLdders vYith a mini Ill lUll or contour at the\\ aist. Viewed from the ide, the
nonvented back cnn lend the corpulent hip a trimmer line; however. from the back. its one-
piece expanse docs little to break up the heavy rear end, particularly if the jacket f1ts snugl y.
When tailored to lie tlat. -ide vents e con the viewer' eye up the coar's sides. suggesting a
longer leg Li11e and overall impression of height.
A.., for the trouser. because the short man aspires to an illusion of height, he must wear
the suit trouser on his natural waist, not bel ow it. Pu hiJJg the trou -er waisr down below rhe
bell}' is this body type's most common and counterproducri\e tendenc). hortening the
trousers' front line and forcing the pleats to open destroy the suit's potential vertical Auidiry.
The man with a prominent mjddle needs full trousers that hang straight from the
waist. By sitting higher on the w::tist rather thanlm"'er on the hip the elevated fullness
SI
PROPORTION
52
DR'ESSTNG
THE MAN
al o works to smooth the transition between jacket bottom and trouser. \1\/hat is to be avoided
is the impression of rwo legs pouring out of the jacket's oversize bottom cavity like two straws
in a creating a visual break that divides the figure in hal F. Following the same logic, men with
shorter legs should wear self-supporting or suspendered trousers since a belt's horizontal line
interrupts the suit's vertical
Pleated trousers offer the man wirh a prominent middle m.ore fuiiJless in front so the
can hang straight from the waist. 1 f designed well. pleats also divide Llp the stomach
expanse. The reverse-pleat style (facing the pocket) may be more flattering for this f igure, because
they tend to lie flatter than the forward- pleated model (facing tbe fl y) . Tiouser legs should taper
modestly fiom thigh to bottom and sit on top of the shoe with a slight break.
Although conventional guidance advises against cuffs due to their horizontal elfect. if
the trousers are pleated. the cuff's weight knifes the front leg crease vvhile better anchoring the
pant's bottom to the shoes. The cuffs mass also helps forge a more balanced transirjon between
the trousers smaller bottom and larger shoe. particularly important for the heavyset man. who
needs Jarger footwear to counterpoint the volume above. The width of the shorter man's cuffs
should measLue 1% inches. lF uncuffed bottoms are preferred. they should break slightly on the
shoe front \Vhilc angling dov.r.Jl\Va rd to the heel to prevent them ilapping about.
In the matter of m:1terials. to discourage the impression of bull<. soli ds and vertical pat-
terning should predomincuc. Colors should remai n in the medium- to dark register, because
lighter colors tend make a stout physique appear larger. The n1ission .i.s to stretch out and
more long. easy Unes. and the less contrast bervveen the two halves of the body. the lengthi er tbe
THE MAN WITH A PROMINENT
MIDDLE NEEDS TROUSERS
THAT HANG QUITE STRAIGHT
FROM THE WAIST.
appearance. One color from top to bottom. d1e suit's ultimate color lesson. should generally be
the coordinating benchmark For this body type. Smooth fabrics such as fine worsteds mit1imize
t hickness. as do up-and-down patterns such as fine pinstripes. herri ngbones. and windovvpanes
longer jn the warp than woof
TIPS FOR THE SHORT, S LIM MAN like the heavyset frame. the thin physique
should always dress "large." Closely fitted clothes serve to accentuate the narrow frame. The
n1ajor difference betwee11 the short, stout body and the short. thin ooe is that t he latter's leaner
scaffold can entertai n more definition to the torso. especiall y around the waist. In order to con-
struct thi , lightl y hourglass shaping. the short. slender physique needs more breadth across his
shoulders and chest and fullnes. Lll the upper trouser.
The ingle-breasted, three-button jacket would be welcome here. as when worn w1but-
toned. each side fo.rms a panel down the front that creates an illusion of verticali ty. The double-
breasted model with lapels rotl ed below the waist would also serve to elongate this body type.
Flaps or patch pockets add weight to the jad<et's proport ional ly smal ler hip. effecting a better
overall balance between the top and bottom halves of the jacket. The height-challenged man,
whether wide or narrow. should a\'oid ensembles in '<vhich there is a pronounced contrast
between Lipper and lower halves. Hovvever, the thin man can wear lighter colors to better advan-
tage than his corpul ent confrere. Fabrics strong vertical Unes, such as some pl aids and win-
dowpanes. as well as more textured A::tnnels and are very sympathetic to this body type.
TIPS FOR THE TALL The higher the tree. the broader its branches: ergo. the ix- footer
and above need full-proportioned cl othing for both naturalness and style. As this guy has
plenty of ve rtica1Unes. he needs to produce more hori zontal ones. His suit jacket should affect
an easy-fittiJ1g deme::mor, particularl y around the torso and waist, with ampl e breadth across
the shoul ders and sufficient length for symmetry and balance. Tl1e rule of thumb on jacket
length: short jackets on short men. long ones on tall men.
ince this bod)' type's shoulders aheady tower high above the floor. rus jacket's shoulders
should slope gent ly downward. The only reason for any extra padding or thickness would be to
build them out a little .. A..Itl1ough slightly augmented in scale. the tal l man's jacket shouJders should
pitdJ forward ever so slightly, contri buting ro the suppl eness and softness encircling his upper strata.
As for jacket model, this man can wear them all. Double-breasteds are helpful to the
cause. because the horizontal t hrust of tl1eir lapels can build out a man, especially if fastened on
the natural waistline, not below it. Another 'Option wouJd be the si ngle- breasted. three-button
jacket with generous width notch lapels that sit a fract1on low on the chest. such as those of NLr.
Cooper's illustrated earli er (sec page 38).
Details like the patch and llap pocket. an exua ticket packer. or turn-back sleeve cuffs
inject a sense of stylish clutter tl1at impedes the eye from making long. vertical sweeps. Here's
one ca e where a belt's horizontal personality could come in interrupting the occupants
Ye rtica1 roulade.
53
P R.OPORTION
Details like a ticket pocket, pocketjlaps,
and sleeve help break down verticality.
Trousers should be long in the rise and tai -
..._
lored '' ith deep. for\\ '<lfd-facing to bring a
comfortable ii.tllness to the front. f'aturall r. trousers
positioned any lo\\er than on the n:nural "ai.stline
\\'t)uld spell sJrrorial disaster for the long oC leg.
Gene rously cut thighs need to taper gently down to
1 3;
4
- i nch cull-;. which are to rest on the shoe with a
generous bteak. And should thi.s high-rise gent be
able ro aiTord the custom mute. his prominence
,.,ould prolic handsomely from the doubl e-breasted,
.;h;.t\\ !-collar \\'aisrcoat's str<ctight-fronted design (see
page 91 ).
dorhcs only setYe to exag-
gerate a rail m;ms length. To achic\'e a more natural
pmporrion. long- limbed lads need hJrgcr-scakd
term. prcfCr:Jbly those haYing some weight te'\nue
to them. like tlannds. cheviots. <utd surface- interest
woolens. If stripes ::liT fcJVorcd. they'll need some width
ror symmctT)' and softness for reRnemcnt. The hori -
zont:11 K1rl11ation of checks. OYcrplaids. ;,md boxl ike
dL'signs has alwavs been ofbenefitin the beam
J
mcnt. High-profile Gary Cooper cnlisr.s the p;1tlcmcd
sport coJt CL)ntrast trouser ro chip m,ay at his clon-
ga ted plumb line.
TIPS FOR THE ATHlETI C BUILD t\n
athletic physique is defined by rhe clothing industq as
a man" hose chest measures eight inches or more rhan
his waist \Nirh such an e'\aggcratcd V -shaped torso.
the goal would be to forge a more
rd;nionship bct\veen the highly
upper half of the body ;md the di.sproportioniJ rely
small er lower h<li-F. \\'id1ouc sacriRcing d1c mcr<l ll
'-
letic image.
at the top. expansi,e shoulders
and chest mean char d1e jacket's must be as soft and nantral - looking as possible. The
jackers length is critical and should. i( an) thing. err sl ighrly on the long side. \ \'hile its dimen-
sions need to balance the shoulder's bulk. it<; c\tra length must nor shorten rhc leg's line.
The .single-breasted. n,o-burron modd "irh generous lapels positioned on the upper
chest will help pby do\\'n the shoulders bre;1dth. " L) notto pby up the :..llread) top-hea' 'Y look. one
\ -
Tarl men Uke Gmy Cooper can wear larger patteri1S.
should aYoid any lUlncce . ary waist sup-
pression in the jacket. lust as the jacket
shOLJd be genrly shaped through rhe
waist! inc. the slce\ e houJd I ikewi e taper
gent! y dmYnward to the wrist. Jacket
detailing should be kept at a minimum to
accentuate the vertical line. although -Rap
or patch pockets can add weight to t he hip
for a better balance with the shoulder.
The suit trouser for the athletic
bLLild should be cut as full around the
hip and t high as possible. fitting as high
on the ~ l i s t as comfortable. Its Full ness
worlc to fi ll up t he jacket bottom's large
cavir; . and its high-waisted placement
translates to a longer leg line. TrolL"ers
, hould taper down ro a cuffed bottom
that rests on the shoe with some break
puJI.ing the eye all t he w:1y down to the
floor. fLJ ier-scale foonvear plus the
cuff's mass aid in countering the upsidc-
dovvn pyramid effect of tbe upper body.
Trying to emphasize the up-
and-dovm while playing down breadth.
smooth-faced fabrics. such as worsted
stripes. herringbones. and even wi ndow-
panes longer in length d1an width. will
do very nicely here. Assun1ing a broad
tace and thick neck. verrical- pointiJ1g
dress shirt collars, such as tabs or straight
points, are rhe ticket to ride here.
55
PR OIIORTLON
s6
DRSS1 NG
THE MAN
INTO THE FITTING ROOM
__ .._.._rc is ;.mall - roo- poignant example of why today's fashion-c011 cious male does not
dress better. As thi conteniporary photograph graphical ly illustrate . even the most class ic
clothing can be compromised by poor fit. Whi le th is bbck- and-white shot projects an LLnmi s-
takable aura of elegance. the poor fit o[ the model's jacket and shirt col1;1r. not to mentfon his
dress shirt and jacket's voluminous cufCs. is <.me more reminder of the need for self-sufficiency
in all matters sartorial. particularly f it.
Once inside the fitting mom, surrounded by mirrors. tape measures. and the like. most
men relinquish questions of styling and fitto the store's salesperson <Or tailor. Years ago. when men's
fashions were Jcs ficlde CJ11d tailors were trained in the protocol or proper dress, this was a
reasonable act of faith. However. today's firt:i ng tc.1i lor is oFten obligated to alter clothes Ln conform-
ity with the wishes of the suit's desig1icr or
An example of a. bad fit.
the store mvner. \Vhile the independent-
minded tailor with real expertise can be
found, the preponderance of noor tailors
are simply duty-bound cogs in the store's
assembly Une, anxious to get you out with
as few alteratio1is as possible-hardly peo-
ple to deter to in matters concerning taste
or correctness.
Fortl.Ulatcl): the correct fitting of
a man's suit is not the arcane science that
it i often made out to be. lt is something
that can be learned . .. incc a man's suit is
made to fit a standard form and oo tvvo
people are bui lr exactly aLkc. only one
man in a hw1dred is likely to step into a
ready-made suit and find that it needs no
alterations. Once :1gain. the rnore knmvl.-
edgeable you can become about how your clothes should Ht in relatiOj1 to your unique architecture.
the more likel)' you are to walk out \Vith an elegantly tailored result.
As tor the when first putting on a ready-made s1.1it to be fitted. make
sure you ha,e your wall et in you.r pocket and your keys or cell phone wherever you normal.ly
keep them. No sense in haYing a breast- pocket billfold produce a bulge whe11 che suit G111 be
altered to bide it. It is also a good idea to wear or bring along a representative shirtvvith
the correct sleeve length and collar height to help in t he f itting process. Dress shoes 'With the
proper heel height can aid in establishing the correct trOLtser length and bottom v\idth.
I NCORRECT FIT OF JACKET COLLAR
...
t
STANDING AWAY. BUNCHING IN BACK.
Propel fitting can do much for an jnexpensive suit. w.h ilea poor fit can scuttle the
cxpcnsindr hand- tailored creation. If a three- thousand- doiJar suit's collar bounce. off your
neck as you vvalk. the suit's value will be .se\'erely compromised. The jacket collar that creeps up
or stands away From your neck is tbe fault of t he tailor. unl ess you asstu11cd a posture other than
rour normal one during the fitting. After slipping on the and jacket. rand naturally in
front of the mirror. and not as if rou had just graduated \Vest Point or a1c anticipating losing
ten pottnds.
Having already established that the jacket' "bones" harmonize with your O\vn. rou
should begin the suit's fitti 11g at the top. In addition ro the shoulder's relationship ro the head,
its width ncecL' to be generous enough to permit the jacket's fab ric to fall From t he shoulder in
unbroken line alJ the \Yay down the sleeve. Also needed is enough fullne s across the back
and chest fo t the lapels to lie flat vvithout gapping open.
This part or the fitting procedure can GlLLSe all kinds of problems. because there arc
those men. frcqucmly accompanied by like-minded won1c:n. who feel that for a man's jacker to
fit t0 it should be meaning it shouJd look as if the fabric were painted
on the body: For starters. there should be sufficient fullness over the shoulder blades for a slight
break. or fold of to extend up the back from below the armJ1oles. L:nless the wearer
doesn't mind donning a -Aawlessly fitting straitjacket, these folds ensure that there is enoLLgh
room for moYemcnt and comfort
Fifty percent of all tai lored jackets need some kind of collar alteration to make them
hug the \\'Carer 's neck. \Vatch that the coll ar does not stand m:vay or have horizontal ridges
bel ow the base of the neck a sign that the collar must be lowered br cutting a\\'ay the excess fab-
ric under the coiJar (t1bave) . Tr there arc tension lines pulling acros!- the shoulder blades, the back
is too tight and must be let out a little,
S7
PR OPORTiON
DRESSING
THE MAN
FULLNESS T HE BlADES
Al-LOWS T HE JACKETTb DR.APE
C()MFORIABILITY AND
THE ARMS T O MOVE FREELY.
The jacket collar at tbe back
should ahvays be at such a .height th<olt at
least half an inch o-f shirt coll ar shows
above it. This vvay the jacket not onfy
looks best but hangs correctly. it any
hjgher, the coll ar would chafe against rhe
neck; were .it lower. the jacket -would look
as lf i.t -vvas sliding off your back Since
many fabrics fit and drape this
is a comnwn alteration that can be com-
petently petformed by most store tail ors,
Once the jacket's shoLuders
1
chest
and neck are deemed .satisfactory, continue
the inspection dmi\rnward. The waist
should be slightly suppressed. responding
to the natural curves of the body under-
neath. You cu1 teU if the fit is roo tight by
looki ng for X-shaped lines forming on
either side of the fastened waist button. IF too pro11ounced. d1e waist should be let out. \ t\fhetJ bur-
noned, it should have enough room for you to sit down although no style points are lost
for unbuttoning a jacket vv.ben seated. The tailor can usually adjust the waist to your l.ild.ng, but be
c;::areful n ot to have it raken in to the point where horizontal appear in the smaJJ of the back,
.JACKET COLLAR NEEDS CORRECT AMOUNT OF SHIRT
TO BE LOWERED. COLLAR SHOWING,
.
. .JACKET COLLAR NEEDS
TO BE RAISED.
"X" MEANS
THE .JACKET IS
TOO TIGHT.
CORRECT
CLOSURE.
mgging on jacket's h.ip and pulling the rear Yent(s) open. Back vents should hnng in a straight
line perpendicular to t he Roor.
The jacket .slee,es should also hang straight. with no horizontal wri nklcs or breaks form-
ing on the upper arm. l Fa 111:111 carri es his arms eith.er too much to the front or back of the coat. the
<ilec,es will not lie smoothly. and they should be remoYed and rotated accorcLngly A good tailor
"''ill rccomme11d such an alteration (and ch8rge
you for it) . The jacket's slce\c should taper to
the vaist bone. wirh a bottom opening mca,o.:-
Luing around si'\ inches in diameter. or no
larger than to frame the shirr's cuff.
"lvlost men wear their jacket sleeves too
long, either because of recent fashions or their
tailor's lack of sophistication. As for the correct
lengd1. a man's arms ought to be his guide. The
jacket sleeve should ro where the wrist
brcal.;.s with the hand. If the arms are on the
short side, inch of shirt cuff can peep Out
below the coat lccvcs: if lil<.e Gary
Cooper's. 3/ 4 inch to 1. inch will give the arm a
better proportion. The band of linen bet'v\ecn_
sleeve and band is one of the deuils that deli ne
the sophisticated dresser.
:8
{)
-o
I
DRESSING THE
NO LESS THAN A HALF-INCH OF' SHIRT CUFF'
SHOULD SHOW BELOW THE JACKi:.T CUFF.
MOST MEN WEAR THEIR COAT SLEEVES TOO LONG.
PROPORTION
60
DR.ESS I NC
THE Mi\N
o-
:
THE TROUSERS' WAISTBAND MUST BE COVERED BY THE VEST.
WAISTCOAT The fitting of any tailored waistcoat should be done \\'ith its back strap fas-
tened-. The adjustable rear belt gives shape to the vest's waist I i ne and discourages the vest From
riding up the torso during the course of wear. The \\aistcoat's chc.:-st should be full enough to
all ow its vvearer to sit comfortably with no hin t of looseness rhe Wi:1ist. Only a small segment of
\\'aistcoat, re\ eal ing no more than the top butron. should be visible c.lbO\ e the jacket (sec page p ) .
The vest must be long enough to cover t he trousers' -vvaistband, stopping in front
before its points extend below the hipbone. A delicate balance must be forged between the
trousers' waisr and the depth of the \'est's "V'' points: the whole edifice vvould CJTU11ble should it
expo e a patch oF shi rt or belt buckle.
arc the recommended antidote for the gap that typically develops bet\vccn
suit trouser and \'Csr. They raise the trousers' wa.istband so it remains covered by the' est. \\'hile
bringi.ng the trousers' pleat.s and Yest's points into better harmony with each ocher. Vests and
belts should choose different dance partners. A strip of leather encircling the stomach adds
more bulk to an already layered waistline. and bdtcd trousers also tend to slide down the hip.
frequentl y reveali ng the undesirable presence of a belt buckle.
Top-quality have slits on either l-id e. the back 'en rs extending below the
front so as to keep the trousers' rear v\aistband from shm'\ing v-r hcn it$ wearer bends fo rward.
ll igh-class railor- n1ade \\aistcoars haYc slightly curved fronts. echoing the rounded shape of the
single-breasted fronts (.see page 15; ). The \est's button stance is designed so that irs bot-
tom button is left undone. a custom dating back to the eighteenth ccntt.uy. when Ed\\'ard V 11. a
corpul ent sovereign, forgot to bunon his after an unusuaLl y vigorous repast with the oversight
ultimatelr taken and handed down as a style indicator.
TROUSERS \Vhen fitting trouser . the cardinal rule is to wear them as high on the waist as
comfortable. lli p-pos.itioned pants wi ll m::1kc the crotch hang too lov\ and lo.ok sloppy. More-
over. the cLu-varurc of the lLip rends to spread pants pockets and pleats. Like rhe jacket' arm-
hole. the trousers' fork should fit as high as hospitable jf it is to Facilitate
muH'ment comfortabl).
\Vicl1 pleated trou et ... the hip and thigh musrbc cut full enough
so that t lte pleats lie flat :.md do nor pu.IJ opc11 whe11 standing. The fLinc-
tion of the pleat is to respond to cl1e natural of the hip and seat
\\hen sitting do\\'11. l C }'OLl <UT llOt prepared tO \\car trousers \\ j th a more
generous front. stick with d1c plain- front trouser. vVhcn one is St:ltldi_ng.
the t rousers fmnt leg crease should bisect the kneecap t.md finish in the
TROUSERS SHOULD BE WORN
ON THE WAIST, NOT BELOW.
middle of the shoe. llouser creases should err toward the inside of the
knee: those fulling m the outside create rhe illu. ion of breadth. omething
most men prcrer to avoid.
lf it is ro be vvorn on occasion with suspenders. 111akc sure the
trou cr is Fitted \\ ith them, since suspendered trousers can change the fit
of the \\'aist. back rise. and inseam. Th cl1cm on in the standing. sitting. and
positions. llouser.s intended to be wom exclusively sus-
penders should allow more room in the vvaist 1-iO that they can
from the shoulders.
Today rherc arc several schools of Lhought on the length of a
trouser. Ln the Stares. they oCte n worn to rest with a slight break. or
"shi \'Cr." on top or the shoe. In this case. they should be long enough to
/
cover the \\'hen a man is in stride. with a idth that conceals the
shoelaces. Pbin-bottom [I'OUSCI'S should slant downward from rront to
back so as to not away at the heel when the man is walking. IJ cuffed.
THE TROUSER CREASE
SHOULD INTERSECT THE
MIDDLE OF THE KNEE
AND B ISECT THE MIDDLE
OF THE SHOE.
their width should be neither so narrm.y nor so wide that it atten-
tion to itself For rime-honored balance. the proper width of trou er
curTs shoLLld be 1 5/g inches for a man u11der 5 feet. ro inches. and 1 3; 4 inches if taller.
Another approach is that of the Europeans or. more specificall)'. theM ilanese, ,.,ho wear
their trousers cut and Cl little on the short side. even showing some sock. In this case. t he
pants sir just Light!} on the shoe. Signor Luciano Barbera. head of an Lralian menswear company
that bears his name. Gills ir the "mid-Atlantic solution." since it is halfwa) bcrween ELuopc and
America. Although he doesn't want to sec your socks. he docs to see your shoes.
CUF'FEb BOTTOMS SHOULD REST
WITH A SLIGHT BREAK ON TOP
OF THE SHOE.
THE MIDAl'LANTIC SOLUTION CUFFLESS BOTTOMS SHOULD
SlANT TOWARD THE HE.EL.
DRFSSING
THE .M.\N
but the spare-;r outfit.'' hile on others he "'ill not be abk to get enough decoration. Regardkss
of the c.1ppro:.1eh. the to -,vvitch from one Ill ode tQ anotlwr is an cssenti<l l ski ll in man's
rii'SL'nal. On the front. a dc:--rcrit) for harmonizi ng pattemed clothes can lend
ver:-ati I it) to a wardrobe o( modest means as wd I as i ncrcase the number or combinations whc n
eli ng wi rh I i 111 ired luggage.
The hi:-toq L)f pc.uterned 1-'ashions and their rise to sartorial sophistication has irs ori -
gi 11s i 11 the carl} L9J.Os. when lllt'll begc.1 n to experiment with a vari ef)' ofks.s formal g:1rmcnts <lS
a result of -;pending so much ti me ih t he funct ion-dri n:- n gear of \iV:u I. Patterned artirc
al:-o represented a !-rom the stolid Vicrorian dress oF rhe prewar years. The ne\\
lounge com's caS). tlowing line' inspired men to loosen up ;1nd .smdl the roses.
\\ 'hilc the da.-,h i ng Pri nee o( cstabl ishcd ma nr of rhe styles that came to be iden,
rifled with the era's "man abotlt tO\\n: perhaps his mostdcCiningcontribution ro popLdar t<lStc
was his insatiable appetite (or pattern mixing. Throughout his life. lhe Prince was routinely
in anr numbc l of :llldacious COJlSOl'tiums of checks. stripes. ;111d piJids. And he
wore them all "'' ith an <lplomb dcYoid of arrogance. 11.>rmaJ and fastidious wirhour a hint of
stuiTine"s. \VhiJc his interest and affinity for clothes ,,as no doubt e'\ceptional in the annals of
modern mens\\'ear. his particular fondness pattemed attire \\as as much a function of his
13riti.shncss as his roral birth.
T he [ngJish spent considerable time on their countr) estates. and their dress
ABOVE
The J'Outzg Pri11ce ij\'Xlales in ro}'al attire.
OPPOSITE:
rcnected their outdoor lifc.sryle. with large-patterned.
splash)' hued suits as the fcl\ored regalia. The cottish
in Aucnce of Balm oral Castle and other 1'0) al hunting lodges
paved the way for the introduction of indi' iduaJ district checks
and clan into Ji,ing. Hosts and guests were regu-
lady ki rted our in local I fighland fare of tarrans. tweeds, plaids.
and arg) les. As the phil osopbet and confcs-;cd Anglophi le Andre
laurois once obsencd. "There is something affected and delib-
erate abou r the casual ness of shaggy fabrics in "h id1 a con ri ncnt
dresses, " hile the English kno,, how robe truly casual and there-
fare trul r elegant."
As For rhc noblem;1n s seat irscl ( of color and
pattern \VCre strewn about to warm up the typicall y coJd. cav,
crnuus manor house into a place of li ... ed- in warmth and casual-
ness. The typical English countr)' room \\'as an eclectic amalgam of
heirlooms. antique tapestries. and chintz-covered fi.tmi ,
tltlT. puncruated by overc; ized shocks of fresh flowers. T hus the
[nglish country squire tolllid himself sLtrrounded by a plethora of
visual "timuli .
Howe' cr. unJikc other roung men of rcgaJ birth. the
(uturc king of [ngland dc,ored a considen1blc part of his ado-
The Prince qfWales had an insatiable
appetite j0rpatt-er11 mL'dng- here are four.
LEFT:
Prince Charles
carries on the royal
pattern traditio11 ..
RIGHT:
The Prince ofvvales
checkedfrom
/1.ead to toe.
lescencc to the Fitting ;,Uld donning of \'ividlr colored and elaborately decorated clothes that
bon:- some myal. military. 0 1 family sign i:ficancc. Such a diverse and extensive wardmbe
requited d1e ful l- time sc1Yices of four 111en just to l> rg:a nizc and t1e:1.nsport it ,., hen the Prince of
'vVa'lcs
the stri ct dress requ irements of his youth, wit h its disciplined and ne:-lrl y retishLs-
ri c attenr ion ro detaiL it's IJO wonde1 rhatas soon as he "' 'as old enough, the Prince tbrevv. off the-
shackles oF his parents' Edwardian ln doing :-:o. he created a vvoddwide a11d
demand for his l.i berated dress. which t he French later -termed "chic ratigue.'' denoting an easy.
c:1.sual sty! ish ness.
\Vith aFil uent h') League coll egiares taking their fashion cues from vacat io.rts spent
attendi ng the n.!>wing races at Oxford cambridge. Anglomania was at a fever pitcb.
they brought home interpretatio1i s of the \\O rtl by the dashi 1ig Princt of \iValcs. men
fmm around the globe turned to the British heir for cluc!-i on h0\-'1' to dress for sport and o::wel.
Pretty soon, fashionable men everywhere began to realize t hat cor=nbining t\vo or more
,,yithin an outfit imbued them with an <lllra ofdistinctil111 and urbanity.
MIXING TWO PATTERNS OF
THE SAME DESIGN
arrowi ng the working C:.lll\'<lS to the i meraction of the suit. dress shirt. a11d necktie
greatly simpliFies rhc partcrn-cOL)rdin;lting tutorial. The fi rst step roward pattern- mixing
prmvcs is lea rning how to mate two like- patterned garments. as a striped tie witl1 a
striped dress shirt, or a checked necktie with a plaid suit. \Vhen combin ing two patterns of the
same design. d1e ize of each should be :1s different from the other as possible. otherwise the
simi l;;, rity vYill produce an optic2l ill usion of movement or ,ibr<.ltion.
Cary Grant ensures the visual compatibilit:) or his two !'\tripes by varying their spacing.
allov\ ing the viewer to eas il )' di.sti nguish one rrom the other. The .solid necktie's subtle diaJoguc
Grant keeping his stripes
tiifJerent settles.
THE

OF PA
68
DIH.SSiNC.
TIT E l'Yif\ N
with each stripe enhances the overall
ease on the eye.
Ever the style setter and cyc._r
comfortable with hi.-: c1L1thes, Fred
Astaire was certainly no stranger to shuf-
fling around different patterns. Here he
chooses the pcJfcctdancc partner for his
fow-in-hand; h..i s button-downs
closer-sctstrLpe arrangement has no dif-
Ficulty follovving the lead of the repp tic's
larger-spaced-stripe design.
Al.ternati velr. herc:s a lesson in
how not to mate two sttipes. Although the
overal l ensen:tble is artfull y arranged. rhc
tie's bar-stripe design a1nost duplicates
that of the suit's. fOrcing the eye to \\ork
ove1timc and strai n for focus.
ABOV:
Fred.Astaire achieves compatability
with -two stripes of varying spacing.
BELOW:
DoN'T 1nate two two stripes that are similar i11 size.
MATING TWO CHECI(S
L tylishl r combining two checks requires a bit more sa,oi r Caire than combining two stripes.
However. the risk c:1n be held "in check'' by once <=!. healthy dose of contra..'>t
bet\Yeen the sGtle of each pla)'cr. folio" i ng closely in r. Lauren's (tzl>lH'dqfi). r. Agnd I i
(trbol'e right). men's innovator or estlblished legend. takes 11 0 chances 011 his two
checks cb hi11g. keepi ng them about as dif-
rerenr in size as a fiat is tiom a Ford.
I r th assemblage to Lhe right cloe-;n'r
make you squint. plcm;e collect rwo hL111drcd
dollars and proceed to the ne3rest optome-
trist \ Vhen two similar-srzc checks are placed
in close proximity. can b1eed confu-
sion. lm onl),. docs their lack oF congenialitY
'- '
undermim: the ensemble's overall effect, bLtt
with the situated right below the
face. li fe is unnecessaril) difficult for the ob-
'
r s eye.
DoN'T wear t11'o checks t!zat are similar in scale.
70
DlU.:SS I NG
THE MAN
MIXING TWO DIFFERENT PATTERNS
hile tile agency of o;;cale W<1S used ro two like patterns. in the case of two
unlike patrcrns. scale mtL<;t be emplorcd ro harmonize them- bttt \\ith :.1 Cl) nvcrsc rule
applied. Two si 111 ilar patterns necessitate' arri ng ro avoid oppos ition: however. coordi 11at-
ing rwo diffe1-cnt p;1tterns. :' uch as sr,ipcd suir ;l!ld a check shirt. or a plaid jacker and a
necktie. keepi ng them close in size.
The shirt-and- tic merger bclm\ illustrntes this point. A dominant- patterned dn:ss
shirt requires a necktie with a dcsigt1 at lc:l!'lt equal in .SGllc: otherwise. the strength oC rhc sh ir t's
aesthetic \\'ill eclipse that of the necktie's. This open spaced striped (bcloll' dema_nds
large- figured print necktie for proper pattern parit}. The that the tie's color rcli ccrs that or
the shirt (urrhcr ad,ances the combination's
This next S\-clte boulcYardier (bch>ll' ,-;ght) emph<lsizes his distinct bold suit by mating it
\\'ith '1 11 equally spirited necktie. Notice ho\\' rhe spaci ng of his necktie's stripe-; melds'' irh the
size of the suit's plaid. \7\' hen in doubr abl)ltL coordinaring a second prominent pattern with a
(j 1sr. choose u larger rather than a small er dc:-,ign. , pt'C\ iously demo nstratcd. the arrangcmem
of the rwo patterns il' further abetted b)' the necktie's rcpctftion of the gn rnct-colored
Dvcrchcck in the su.Jt's plaid.
Like guidelines. there arc cxceprions. The bi&,rcst chal lenge in combining two
pmterns ham10niousl) occu rs" he11 Olll' design happens tn be partiCLdarly small. PicKing two small
Keep the sc(rles equal to harmo11i.ze two dt[fere11tpattcrns.
patterns each other. whether si mibr
or 110t. wil l wreak ha,oc on the eye ol the
beholder. Y<.m rare!} sec a on Lclevision
\\caring t\\ o small patterns. because d1eir
\ ibre1ring cH.ect distorts the camen1's tixus.
ll.) safeguard optical clarity when
coordinating one small p<lttcrn wirh <l
second, one design must be signiFicantly
larger. Consider t his next coordinatiOt1 nf
two small patterns right) , and )'OU wi ll
immediately that i. ts miniatun.: scale
forces the eyes to work overtime ro <Woid
blur. 1\lternati\ el). the mini- houndstooth
composition manage!' to a ,isual har-
mom. beGlLL"c the necktie's foulard moti
'
arc \paced h11 enough apart to distinguish
themsdres from the suit':-; diminuti\ c
check (apposfte
lOP
illl pafferm
cnuu Jascord.
BOTTOM.
~ T pattern
::ta to be relieved
c lurger one.
71
T ,/'JE
PREROGATIVES
OF PATTERN
MIXING THREE PATTERNS
J on\'cntional taste has guided us . afcly to this \'antagc point, but sealing the next peak
of patterning wil l require a bit more sartori al rope- from this point reward <lnd risk go
hand in hand. The safest route to the happy rendeY\'OUS of three patterns ''"ithin one ensemble
is wl1cre each design d i fn:Jm the others.
Following the same tra.il that helped us unite unlike patterns. we again rei) on tl1e
medium of sc1l t tO our footing. Obsene l)rronc Power's. strategy (apposite). By main-
taining a consi:\tcnt of contrast and scale nithin his
ensemble's compone11ts. he makes the overal l cnterp1isc appe::tr
relativclr elfortless. in the to the right,
the dimension of the suit's herringbone pattern. the size of
the dress shirt's check. and the width of the necktie's stripe
acco1d in proportion :.md weight \Vith one another. Even the
border of the pocket handkerchief reAccts the bolder stature
of this multi patterned rown outfit.
OPPOSITE:
Tyrone Power wearing three d@rent patterns.
RIGHT:
Using t:he sam.e scale to hold together mu.!tiple patterns.
-.,
I ?
THE
P Rli R 0 (; J\ T 1 V r S
oFPArrERN
1
; -!-
DReSSING
THE MAN
MIXING THREE PATTERNS WHEN
TWO ARE THE SAME
e encounter an e\en more demanding slope when rwo ofthe three players share the
same such as two ru1d a check, or rwo checks and a stripe. In this case. safe passage
can be assured only by separ3ting the tv,o like desjgns in size vvh ile selecting a11 unlike pattern
that is' isuall) compatible with both. In this example. the two stripes are kept at arm's length by
virnu? of their differing scales. whtle the necktie consorts with either stripe.
Ditto For the check-on-check class ic bdow.
The dress shirt's smaller check is app.eali11gly framed
within the suit's bolder check. \ t\/ hen sporti11g a tri-
umvirate of patterns in which two share the same
design. the odd Olle out .(in this case. t he neck-
tie) must take its cue from the more promi-
nent of the two partners.
Notice the of a larger-pat-
tenled necktie in harmonizing .111any of these
multiparrerned compositions. Of al l neckties,
the opcn-grouncllarge-spaccd motif affords the
greatest possibi li ties for textural har-
mony. Multiple-patterned ensembles
often require at least one larger-scaled
design for proper balance. and these
bolder-all-over neckties ;ue indispens-
abl e fo1 accomplishing just such an
:1esrhetic accord.
TOP:
,Correct balance- large stripe, small stt'ipe, large paisley;
LEFT:
Correct balance- large check, small check, large stripe.
MIXING THREE PATTERNS
OF THE SAME DESIGN
he air continues to thin at this as \ 'Ve leave solid
ground and rule of tlwmb, guided nov, only b) intuit ion and experi-
ence. Brandishing three plaids or three stripes ral ls very much withjn
the parameters of traditional elegance; however. such an enterprise
is fraught wjth the risk of contrivance and self-consciousness.
\t\lhethcr such a conYergence strikes the observer as the ununit of
' tylc or the edge of arrogance depends on the " earer's skiU.
Once agajn. scale becomes the blueprint for success. Follow-
ing the technique for dea1ingwirh two like patterns. scale must nO\\'
work overtime to i111pose a sj mil ar discipline on rh rcc. Sometimes
these creations go easier \Yhen graduating in size from small out to
large, begin at the base with the smallest step and proceed on up.
-n1ke a look at Basi l Rathbone's graduated arrangement of
checks (top). Starting\vith his shirt's small tatte1sall. he bui lds u.p to the
jacket's larger houndstooth d1eck. and rhc11 extends things outward to
the jacket's larger plaid pocket square. Likewise, Prince Charles (cente1)
jumbles around three plaids with a display of aristocratic aplomb.
The same basic geometry appli es to succcs -fu lly choreo-
graphing three stripes (bottom). Once again, such a linear scenario
fal ls \err much within the mainstream of sophisticated ra..o:;re. and.
like the plaid trio. its fortune rests squarely on the skill of the
wearer. ln melding three stripes. start with the small est at the base
and then branch up and out l.n scale. By bui lding upon each trtipe's
graduation in size, the arr;,u1gement is infused 'vVith dimension and
proportion. mi n1mizing the potential for contrivance .inherent in
such repetition.
TOP:
Graduating checks fi'om shirt outward.
CENTER:
Prince Charles in three checks.
BOlTOM:
Graduating stl"ipes fi'om shirt outward.
DRf .S .S /Nl:
Tll NIA N
MIXING FOUR PATTERNS
a\ing now arri\-cd at the summjr of pas-
tiche. we haYe reached the point ''here inspirJtion trumps
imitation. Collecti,clr. these next toffs probably ,iolarc every
rule pattern mixing in the book. lobbi11g a fC"' of their mn1
.in For good measure. This super-secret worldwidc Order of
Dandies (:.1 ll1m \Molfc <1ppcllation) dress almost cxclusi,clr
for themseh cs. undaLmted b) an outcome that might contra-
Ye ne cOil\'Cil rion or raise eyebrow. They relish t he challenge
of a fine matcb. Is t hi.s. c.lrt or si mplr ,aniry?
rred J\staire (center once compared dressi ng well
to putting on a sho,,-he had to rchc:.use in order to get it
right. I Jere arc just a fe" of the fdlo\\-s \\'ho ha' c practiced
long and hard, a.nd ha\'e e\err th i ng to sbm\ for it
Luciano Barbera (apposite is one of those fcv.- con-
tcmpor:.uy men whose personal tc.1stc and code of conduct set the
standard by '' hich ma.ny in the business of menswe<:1 1 measure
2:cnuinc elegance. let's rudr one of the nuestro of mix's" 0\\'11
Ll (.._l ;
t\Jthough he is S\nHhed in foLu- dilicrcnrlr pat-
temcd garme ms-windowpanc jacket. striped oxford shirt.
checked tic. and foulard pocket of them
calls attention to itself Granted, in 1\ uch h:1nds, such dcuils of
dress become dements of design. Barbera undersrands that in
order to don four different parrcrns without O\erly
dccorcd. the clothes must be \\'Orn with a slight and
looseness. Dressing at this rarefied altintde pjvots on something
of a paradox; the more imagination and taste one puts in to his
appearance, the mQre sub de rhc rcsuJts should be.
Although not quite at the same level as these other
duee pc. ll'agons of men's srrlc, )'OUng l)Tonc Pm\cr may
have been the hancL'\omest man to kno'' hLm to wear clothes
'veU. Here he mantled in motif- four oC them. allied b)' their
munlaliry oF scale and degree of contrast. \\lhjk he exudc.s
"nothing but naturaJJJess," the melange h;]J1gs togethc l' superbly.
\Vhc rcas rlw LlLU-\.C of \\'ind,or would knock <lbout i.n combinations of garments that
110 orhcr I'I'IOrral (()Uid concci\ l? or Fn'd (vpposftc cmlct) innate sense of St) le endowed
everything he wore \\' 1 Lh grace :.111d charm. Few men co-t Jd sport such a cons(>rtium of apparel
:.1nd not Fooli"h. Shall we our nn limb and spcnd:.1rc that a fifth pattern L,c.; prob;1bl)
graci his
.... ....
Thic.; couldn\ end with1.1trr gtling to t he well one [;; 1st time with a D-
uf-'vV snap (opposite bottom). [yen though \\'C alllu1o\\ thar he h,td li ttlc to amuse hi msd F with
besides his cloth.cs. hc1"t:'s yet anothct inimitable cotKoctiun in the DLLkc'.s sccminglr incx-
h.wsriblc of sui gcncris. patrcrncd pcrspic:J.cit). This guy \va.c.; a onl'- mnn institute.
OPPOSITE T OP:
Tyrone Power
in fou.t' patter11 s.
OPPOSITE CENTER:
Fred Mtalre donnfngfour
6ua.ybe fiFe-
if his socks wen visible).
OPPOSITE BOlTOM:
The Duke ltwd
on planet "pattern."
RIGHT:
Luciano Barbera
as !fl1e lvere
wettring 11.othi11g u:n.u.sual.
77
THE
PJU ROG:\ Tl \ ' SS
Of P J\TT/.!ftN
"I'll throw in a je1111 extra pinstripes."
8o
DRESSJ NO
THTi Jvfr1N
garment or ensemble that a compkrc yet variable envelope for the mal e body.
Although the community congcnjtally disposed t G se:lson<lllr remodel it in the
name of"modernism," all this inventi on has managed to proceed without radical ly undermin-
ing the suit's eminence among hierarchical male
The Peacock Revolution accdcrated the mo,cmcnt aw<l)' from tai lor_:diaated taste to
dcsigJlcr- inspi red as the basis of mens style. The popuhuiry L)f the Pierre Cardin
hourglass suit in the se,enties. follo\vcd by Hugo Boss's ai1pl a11 e-shotddered power suits and
Giorgio lovv-gorge in the eighties. transformed the busiJ1Css suit from the
standard-bcaler or conformity a.11d membership into a vessd of cuxrenC) and Fashjonable energy.
By the having establ ishcd lrsclf as the contemporary clothier's h igh-pmfile
caLLing cclrd, the designer sav\ suit sales begin to eclipse botll national brands as well as the top
retailers' own private-label offerings. vVhereas previously men tended m t>ay aJJ egiance to one suit
.shc1pc and dressing sryle. by the end of the eighties. fashion's ne,vest exponents began to
exper.i ment with clothing silhouettes t he way women did with makeup. thinking nothing of buy-
jng three new sui ts <1 season. from th n;:e different designers, in three different cuts.
For most of the last cent ury, the corporate wlifonn ,irtttt..tU)' guart..H1teed the suit an
\Videning audience. HD\YC\'Cr. the hltest\vorkplacc freedoms have encouraged more comfonabJe
and coll egial garb. \IVith bw>iness 8ttiie no lo1Jgcr by strict soci:.Ll codes. casual dress novv
shates the 0ffice wid1 the tailored uniform.
Despite the suit's current bad press and steady decline in units::1les. more -f1-fteC1l -hund red-
dol 1m-and-up sLLits were so1d. in the l'a:st ,e years of the t\iVentieth century fl1<1h duri1ig rhe preYious
thirt): The sophisticated dresser understands thar \\
1
hile no longer n1andatory corporarc E1re. the
suit is here to stay \tVith the classic dtcss suit now pressed into servi ce more for ceremony than ordi-
n<:U'}' day wear. men want their mi.lorcd attire to be no less a talisnli:U1 of snccess than their cars. wines.
and \vatcht;s, and when a man needs real sartorial firepo\i\er, he looks for tl1e best armaments money
c.u1 tai.lor.
Anothc1 contJibutor to this colhweral t rading-up is the m:.:TtLuation oF the contemporary
male's lc, el. T he style-conscious man has graduated riom d1e h.igb-tashion suit's cycle
ofdisp0sabilit}' rm:vard one wi th a longer life exp!,::cte:ulcy and thus, value. Old-,vorld verities such a:-:
hand,vork and :.,u-tisan cra:ftmai1...;hip are making their '"':1)' back into modern fashion parlance.
And bespoke rai.lo1i ng is by no means dead . .s till serri ng the .s tandcud for today's rap tie.r
of rcadj -1na.dcs. so that d othing lTJerchants assure you that. except on close inspection. their
hanging product is111distiJi1guishable From custom-m<lde examples.
T nstcad of shedding value. the tail ored sui t has actually returned with Interest. Even
the Cucci-Prada colony portrays jts po.snnode1J1 t\vo- pieces as tonics rather than tyra1111ies. tbe
lone garment capable of transporting the1 1 mban knights from day to night. uptovvn to dm.vn-
CO\.vn. Despite the ne\1\ hm1tc corporate regime of <::asuaJ dressing, when success is in the ai.r. no
ensemble can del ivcr such a message more poignan dy than the well -raiJored d res.s SLlit.
THE SILHOUETTE
orty years ago, one could break down rhe dominant suit si lhouettes into three or four
"schools" of custom tailoring. In [ngland. they call it "bespoke." 111 Italy, the word is sartor!tt.. In
France. it's known as taillctw. Each generic suit shape could be identified by its national custom-
tai loring tradition, which fil tered down into a vari ety of rcady-ro-vvear suit styles, several of
which emerged over the long term robe almo t i1iimune to the vagaries of fashion ..
The first archetype silhouette w'as the so-call ed Eng! ish look, which took its lead from
royalty. who in turn were invariably clothed by one or more of Britain's legendary of avile Row
tailors. The Briti h style modeled itself along the lines of them il i tary uniform as exemplified by
the long- fitting. hourglass-shaped hack.i ng jacket. Adhering closely to the body. with subtle
emphas is on the chest and a soft shoulder. the siJhouette's marked waist. slightly ~ l r c d ski rt,
and deep side vents, tritnmed s.leeves and tmuser line gave a man a firm, almost regal bearing,
especially if he happened to be arisrocraticall)' lender.
1\ second generic suit shape vYas popularized b)' Brooks Brothers in America, which
became !mown as the "1vy League look" in the 1950s. Characterized b) a tluee-button. single-
breasted jacket \Nith nanu:al shoulders, undartcd fronts. Aap pockets. center vent, and pl_ain-fronr
trousers, Brook.-;' "Number One Sack Suit" vvas the first ma_ss- produced suit, its shape undiHer-
entiated and unse:-ry. offering the wearer a soft-spoken. calcul ated anonymity. The American suit
makers were the first to learn t hat the less there was trt c.l garmenr. the better one felt in Jt.
The third basic tailored expression became the Continental or l.:.uropean look. Conti-
nental style revolved around Italian and, to a lesser extent. French fashion. Virtually the polar
opposite of the shapeless American sack suit the ELuopean cut relied on severity of line to project
.its style. Ch<l ractcrized by high squarish shoulders cl11d a .shortoveralllengrh. the jacket demanded
smalL high armholes to give the chest the length that short jackets denied it. Cut close through the
chest and hips. the coat was usually si ngle-brcastecl two-buttoned with high notched lapels and
slimming llaplcss pockets. and a ventless back. Its trouse1s had a lower ri se vvith figure-hugging
legs. The European's wedgclike torso and lean-fitting trousers turned many a young male into a
walking phaJ I ic symbol.
The last or fourth t)'pe of suit style was a blend of merican and English. Brooks
Brothers and avi le Row. Long the st:::t plc affine dressers, From F1ed Astaire to Gary Grant. this
updated American suit combined the Rov,;s trademark smartness \:vith the understated com-
Fort of the sack suit. Introduced ro the Gotham gent in the middle sixties by :Vladison Avenue
retailer Paul ... tuart. this shaped. two- button suit was later offered ro the general public through
rhe fashions of designer Ralph Lauren.
Feantring higher armholes and a smaller chest ,;vith dart'ed fronts for a more shaped
waist. the updated American suit's longer rolled lapels opened the coat's front to reveal more of
8L
THE SVTT
DR'ESSTNG
THE Mi\.N
the man's fLun1shings while emphasizing his V-shaped tor o. Whether Americanized by a center
vent or anglicized with side vents. for several decade . this soft-shoulder hybrid \Vas the keynote
of traditional American fashion. breathing fresh air into the East Coast hry League look.
For years. the terms "EngJjsh" or"American" seemed frozen in time. denoting a particu-
lar style of suit and manner of dress that cut across continental and LLLihtral diYides. To be
de cribed as" Italian" in one's sartorial procliviti es was to suggest t hat a man preferred his clothes
fitted and worn with a certain aair. Today such references h:lVe lost all practical meaning. The last
thirty yea rs ofgloba'l fashion have transcended national b01.mdat: ies and indige-
nous tastes to such a degree that those standard suit si Lhouettes have been compl etely unhi_nged
from their former territorial or rruloring moorings.
Today, Le Styl Anglais is more popular abroad than in England, where only an aging
landowner or steadfast client of a avile Rovv tailor might stil l adhere to the old 13ond trcet bro-
mides. One would be equally hard-pressed to find the authentic sack suit for sale in lvlanhartan.
The former European fig, with its tight fit and wedge shoulder. has eYolved into a slope-
shouldered, side-vented. softly scuJptLued three-button affair, more Anglo-American than Conti -
nental. more Metropolitan than iilanese.
Therefore, rather than getting sidetracked by fashion's latest of moYing suit sil -
houettes, arriving at d1at stilt shape relevant to permanent sty! ishness will be made much si mplcr
if one basic silhouette can be employed as the start ing point. ln fact. such an assumption is t'H)t as
big a leap of faith as one might think. Due to a unique confluence of evenrs. for the first time
since menswear's golden age. present-day suit makers agree on the suit jacket's most defining yet
variable feature. its shoulder expression. 13y the dawning of the nvenry-first centuq: Italy's lead-
ing fashion designers. England's avile Row tailors. France's top retailers. and America's sartorial
elite basically agree that the sine qua non of tailoring sophistication is a suit that brackets the
wearer' head with gently sloped, natural-looking, but defined shoulders.
This is not to suggest that men's uits have become so homogeneous in cur or detailing
as to be indistinguishable from one another. 1 lovvever, it is to affirm that the real differences in
today's top- rung suit sill1ouettes have seldom been less remarkable or more subtle. And if you
thrO\"'' into the mi.x the fact tl1atmost better suits' shoulder lines now appear to share more sim-
il:uity than ever before, then, wl1ether a ,r:nan favors a suit shape that is sLightly boxy or fitted,
full er cut or tapered, the exercise becomes more an expression of personal rasre rather than ar-
terial correctness.
Therefore. assuming that the suit's propo1tions accord with those of the wearer and
this "international silhouette'' can be used as a constant in our discussjon. \Ve are freed to focus
on tho e models. details. and fabrics that translate into permanent fashion. at least for the fo re-
seeable future.
CLASSIC SUIT MODELS
TOP:
GJry Cooper demMzstrates the classic
urroniug of a three-button suit with
its center button closed.
BOTIOM:
Cocteau shows the larger "V"
openitzg of the two-button suit.
THE SINGLE-BREASTED SUIT The single-breasted
t wo- pi ece is the mainstay of most n1en 's suit wardrobes. Early
single-breasted suits were usually three- button. mostly with
notch lapels, and always vested. FolLovving the Lines of its t'..vo
progenitors, the riding jacket and then later on. the morning
coat, the single- breasted lounge coat made the transition from
country to city when its cunred fronts were cut away below the
waist button. As the curve prevented the bottom button from
fasteni.ng, the top button was worn undone to balance the trio,
giv1ng the low1ge suit a distinctl y degage air.
An alternative mode of wearing the three-button coat was
to fasten its top t\vo buttons, ald1ough the lapeJ had to be designed
to roll high enough to pem1itthe top button to be d osed. Compared
"vith the openness of Mr. Cooper's singJe-button
fasten ing, this arrangement doses up the coat,
somcwhat formaUzing the presentation. Its two
upper buttons aLo form a vertical line in front,
promoting a more up-and-down dynamic,
thought to add length to a man's torso. Here is
an elegant Apparel Arts stripLing tal<ing in all
measure of three-button stylishness.
\M:1.nn weather fOLmd men remov-
ing their vests. and over time, the matchi11g
vest's high ''V" front began dropping lower
and lower. Not surprisingly, the three-
button jacket's high- button stance was like-
T H'ESUIT
vvise lowered, in the two-button suit
model. Ultimately eclipsing the three-button in
popularity. the two-button with its open front not
only exposed the wearer's furni shings to better
advantage, but its darts and defined wa1stlinc gave
occupants a trin1mer look. \1\fho says that the con-
servative nvo-button bu iness suit neces a.rily tifles
self-expression? This classic dark worsted doesn't
seem tO have inhibited Jean Cocteau from
The three-button
suit with:its top
two buttons closed.
imposi11g hls stamp of individuali ty on it.
DRESSING
TH!. MAN
'

THE SINGLE- BREASTED PEAK LAPEL SUIT ln the 1920s, the peaked lapel
n1asterm.inded the metamorphosis of the male torso. Throughout the interwar period. whether
for single- or double-breasted suit jackets, overcoats, or blazers, pointed revers or lapel peaks
spearheaded the popularity of the V-shaped male chest. The acceptance of the single-breast ed
dinne r jacket with peaked lapels i1:J the late t wenti es ultimately spill ed over into daywear.
By rigging a single-breasted jacket wit h a double- breasted tever, this lapel treatment
vi rtJ-tally neutralized the double-breasted edge in formality This opt1on offered particular relief
in the sun1Jner months. su1ce siJlgle- breasted styles eliminated the warmth oftlie 0 B's overhtp-
p.ing fronts. Rarely found on ready- to-wear racks. this mildly offbeat suit model rernains pretty
much confined to the cu."tom-tail ored crowd. Bespo ke and vest ed with walking stick in hand,
tv\iO of the I :Lome Country's better-upholstered public servants. Si r Anthony Eden and Sir
Samuel Hoare, show their take on the smartly stocked city wardrobe.
l!
- ....
......
LEFT:
Sir A1tthony Eden and
Sir Samuel Hoare {n single-
breasted peak-lapel suits that
spearheaded the populat'ity
if' the V-slmped male h r ~ s t
OPPOSITE TOP:
Adolphe Mtnjotdtt a natty,
classic double-breasted suit .
OPPOSITE B01TON :
The Duke cifKerzt in the
"v '' [ 1' i
.I\.ent., a onget'- me vers on.
THE DOUBLE- BREASTED SUIT Prior to \Vodd \\
1
ar II. single
suits SL)Id in almo:-.t equal numbers. f\.s the dri\ing
(orcc behind tailored in the twcntic .... and thirties. the double
brca"n:-d ,'\U it's most popular rendering "a:- the on t\\ o button from.
with broad lapels marking a high \raist and stl'aight ta.i ls hugging
o lindrical hips. Long, "ide trow;crs supponcd th i" col umnli ke shape.
"ervi ng as the base of an athletic si lhm1ettc Ctllll C to define 111 asnJinc
"
rhc period.
0 0
, \ctnr I\ dol phc tvlcnjou.s wardrobe posed tn ha,c been a
\ 1rtual of men's fe:1s h ion. Reportedly. it i ncludcd at least one
p.lckct rrom C\'Cf) f:llllOUS EuwpeJn tai lor up through 19)6. l !ere's one of
1
11., killer I) B\ natt) in e\ ery nu:1nce. from it" contoured shoulders
and 'llloothl) dr<1pcd chest do" n to his full cur trou-;cr..;' S) mmctrical and
centered crease
\\'hen , \mcric:t':-; elite adopted famouc; dr;1pc cut JS rheir
O\\ n. Ill'\\ emerged. One model in particLJar spi r-
il.cd lt'icl r tO the top of the the "iX- Or fom button from \Yith bpcJs
\.-..1gncd to rol l down below the \-\rust ;]nd on the bottom button .
...
k.n0\\'11 t he "Kent." it \;1,1;11\ named rhc Prince or \A/aJcq's )'Ollllgcr
brot her. Pri ncc George. the Duke of Kcm. who \\':1.S gcncr;1ll )' Cl'edited with
mtmduction in the late twenties. Lkcausc it:-. longer bpd line extended
through the \\:1isrlinc. less cmphasi" \Vas pbccd on the \Yru:-\t. rhus giving the
\\e<lrcr an illusion of height. Not did the Kent seduce the superbl)
its sty! ish swagger curried p;lrricular OJ'\\ ith the short:md stout .
. \s to its stvle rankin!:!. the doublc- brc;1Sted suit is to the -;ing:Je-
1 L' L'
\\hat rhe pleated pant is to rhc plain front. incrcmentallr more
't\ li-..h. The DB's pt1inted. diagonal lc.1pd:-. up :111) wor:-ted \\ ool \\ ith
.1 .,J,ghtl) dres-;icr panache. Because rhc j;Kket's mcrbpping fronts look
tidier\\ hen squared up. one oC their front butto11.s shmdd be fastened to
(.'\:plolt the model'-; inhercm Like t he pinned dress shirt coll ar or
;;uspcndcrcd rrousc1. the DB suit rLquires a bit more apJomb to effect a
n:.ntrr:.1l styli shness.
l\ 'kn arc crc.attues of k1bir. \ Vhen 1cemen returned from
\\1 )rid \ Var II . 1 hey opted for the single-breasted it. h:.wi ng become accus-
rnmed to its comfort case of wea r during their milirar) sen icc. As a
rc-,ult rlk' fifties" irnessed the populnr decline or the DB. \ Vith the c:-.ccp-
unn or a Fe\\ random periods of limited the double-breasted's
princip:.1l proponents h:J\e been the custom milnr.s and their st) le-con. cious clientele. Although its
comes goes. as long as men 1egard Lhl' dress suit as a srmbol or male elegance and
;lllrhorit). thL suit'' ill a.l\\ays irs inclusion in the top-echelon \\ardrobe.
SUIT JACJ(ET DETAILING
ABOVE:
Side pockets line up with the bottom bttttoH on the
coat'sji-ont. Notice the D-tachflnlshing.
B01TOM:
Patch pockets are considered the nwst CL1Stuz!
of the three classic suit pockets.
SUIT jACKET POCKETS suit pockets were
jcm:d. or Aapless. ln 1921 the Prince of \Vales started yet
another trend b)' to for his coat's lower
pockets. Although he \\a.s not the first to wear them. his
<l doprion their vogue for his of r=ollowcrs.
Rl.'gardl css of their style or size. the jacket's side pockets (or
the top edge or the f1ap) line up with the bottom
button on the coat's Front.
Fh1pped pockets add a layer of fabric to the jacket,
therefore making it les" sleek and dreSS}: This is why top-
pedigreed tuxedo jackets feature jetted rmhcr than Happed
pockets. !3ener- quality fbp pockets arc .. double-besomed." a
railori ng term for a narrovv wei ted edge sewn above and
bdo\\ the pocket's slit opening. only is this the most
expensive type oF pocket Aap construction, but also shouJd
the \Ycarer decide m tuck his tlaps inside the pockets. these
two vvel ts gi vc the pocket a more 1-i 1rished appt-arance.
, \lternativdy. lhp pocket:- arc dressier than the :{ewn-on patched variety As such. the open
orflappcd style of pocket can usua11) be round astride the
sportier t\\o- piece or light-colored solid suit. Lince patch
pockets add anOLher layer to the j;.Kkefs Slllfacc. they an: con-
sidered the most casual of the three classic sui l pockets. \ Vere a
navy or dark pitlStriped dress .sujr adorned with pard1 pockets.
it would be fro" ned upon as a sartorial O") moron. Here's a trio
sported by the \Vhite House's only president to do ti_me in the
mens\\ear busincs'i. haberdasher I larry lium;,1Jl.
The extra change pocket situated abnYc the lo,vcr
hip pocket. whether rl1pped Or jetted. has been J
derail <1 sui rs custom tailored genesis. tvlovie srars
such as rrcd ;\staire had many of their suits
made with them. thus introducing the ticket pocket Lo the
male viewing public. As a rule of thumb. the !lapped cash
pocket diminishes a suit's dressiness. while the besom style
heightens i t. Years ago. if <l customer "<lnted a cash pocket
added to a read) made suit. most better mcns stores ,,ere
equipped to accommod:1te him.
I
B
FALL
OXFORD GRAY SHARKSKIN
NAVY WoRs a ED c .... STR!P
I
MEDIUM-WEIGHT BLACK-AND-WHITE
GLENUROUHART PLAID WITH BLUE 0VERCHECK
Unless indicated, all suitings are coustructcd withji11e merino wool }'arm at1d two-plyflllings.
MARI NE BLUE f:?IRD' s EYE
WITH WINDOWPANE DECORATION
CHARCOAL BROWN DoUBLE-BEAD STRIPE
WINTER
CAMBRIDGE GRAY
WORSTED FU>.NNEL
NAVY WoRSTED FLANNEL
CHALK STRIPE
TAUPE GLENURQUHART PLAID
MARINE BLUE MICRO-NAILHEAD
rr :.;.,
;nl.!_ll t II .1
II U I ,.
,ill f! II
8; .t.CK- AND- W HITE PLAID IN TROPICAL WEIGHT
WITH REO 0VEACHECK
SPRING
M EDIUIY1 -GRAY W ORSTED
IN PLAIN WEAVE
LIGHT-GRAY TROPICAL WORSTED
WrTH PEA RL CHALK S TRIPE
U GH'lWEIGHT NAVY WORSTED WINDOWPANE
GRAY Pick-AND-PICK
BLACK-AND-WHITE TROPICAL
SHEPHARD' S CHECK
COLONIAL TAN PLAIN WEAVE
FAWN G LEN PLAID WITH TONAL 0VERCHECK
C REAM DUPIONI SILK
RIGHT:
Casl1 pocket.
BELOW:
-\ugled hacHng pocket.
l
\
The angled Aap or '' h:Kking'' pockcL so call ed bcclllse or irs
oa.l connection to the riding o r "hacking jacket. i.s a nother ri mdess
suit- pocket option. Rarel y fou11d o n non- l) ritish ready- mades. irs prese nce
to project :1 slightly t\ngli cizL'cl if not bespoke, slant. r\ [wo,irc
det2i ling of the house or lluntsman. the lamed \aYi le Row tail or known
their riding jacket inspi1-cd cur. rhc tlap, diagonaJ chisels breadth awar
from the hip \\'hil e adding <111 t)f height to the wearer. \.Vith its
sporty roots. the lanring. h<.Kking- "r:le pocket \Yorks better \\'ith . inglc-
breastcd clothes. al though its angles harmoniL.e handsome!) " ith those of
the peaked-bpel. single- breasted suit modd Occasionally accompanied b)
a like-pitched cash pocket. this arrangtmcm better left to rusticate the
sport) countrr suit.
8;
THE S tJlT
88
DR.ESS I NG
THF. M tiN
JACKET VENTS Vents hme a military
heri tage. \Vhen men traveled on hor eback.
their coats were designed For comfo rt in rhe
saddl e. A single slit in the coat's back permi t-
red its tails to fall naturall y on eit her side ofrhe
horse. J very practical reason v' hr even todar
the long single back ,ent: sti ll adorns most
modern riding jackets. As the male suit jacket
must be long enough to cover the buttocks.
rear vents m::tke the nouser pockets more
accessibl e. There are three choices in jacket
venting: Ycncless. si ngle center vent, and the
double-vented side vent.
Th.e Ventless Back In the late seventi es, the vent-
less :;uit was a mrity Over the next ten years.
the men's designer business catapuJted the
plain- back suit into mainstream Fa ' hion. estab-
li shing it as the most popular rype of jacket. a
status it retains wdar Although its origins are
Erequenrly traced to the Italian
suit of the sixties. nonvcntcd suits are as
time-honored as the British side vent.
[kt\\'een the wars. English tailors
ruled men's seams. the majori t:y of
bespoke lounge suits and. in par-
ticular. dinner jackets. were tai-
lored without vents.
ABOVE:
The long single back vent adorns most
modern ridingjackets.
LEFT:
The ventless back bunches up if forced to accommodate
a hand in search of a pocket.
The nonvcntcd jacket hugs the hip. giving it a clean. trim contour and a
dressier mien. implkity of line and form. it functions poorly ln
order for the wearer to reach into a trouser pocket or to sit down. t he back
must bunch up. frequently leaving a crease. Advocates choose to ignore such inconven-
iencc. bec-ause of its supposed sexier allur-e.
The Center Vettt The center-vent ed back. an American predil ection. rose to promi-
nence in the dars when ready- to-wear clothes were first arri\'ing on the ceo e. V/ ith
the evolution of America's natural-shoulder (ashions in the fifties. the cent er-vented
jacket became a featured part oF the lv) League lool. Jnitially designed for horseback.
the single vent lacks any sty I ish Form \\'hatsoe' er when not in the saddl e.
lf ::1 m::tn 's hand is in search of a jacket or trouser pocket. at the slightest ntg the sin-
gle \ 'Cn t pulls open I ike <l garage door. re\ eal i ng \\hat it should be covering. This center slit
ABOVE:
The single vent pttlls open to expose a
ma.n's de-rriere, on.ce a hand is placed
i11 a trouser or jacket
RIGHT:
The side 11e11t permits access to trouser pockets
whfle co11eri11g the buttocks.
amacts tUldue attention to rhe man's expo, ed der-
riere, and. if cut high enough. the yent encourage a
fringe of disordered shi rt ro join the spectacle.
As the least expensh e vent to manufacture
;;md. until recentl y. the most common style of rear
venting. the center-vented treatment usually con.fi_rms
the garment's ready-made provenance. The Italian
cognoscenti never succttmbed to its middl ebrow favor,
and Savile Row tai lots avoided it like the sanGria!
sophomorism it is. O:ffeting a bit more fi.mction than
the non vented arrangeme11t, the single slit's only saving
grace is that it can occasionall y be employed to better
conceal a prominent hjp than either the ready-made
ventless or side-vented jacket back
The Side Vent Side vent.;;
offer the wearer the high-
est unjon of function and
form. notto mention flexi-
biJjty. Should a man try
a double-vented coat and
later decide that he doesn r
I ike the vents, rhc back
can be easily converted
mto a vcmless by sewing
rhcsidc vents closed. As for
function. when the wearer
is sitting down. the ide slit
all ows its bad< flap to move
thereby minimizing creasing. And when one accesses a trouser
pocket, the double vent's back Aap permits smooth entry while conceal-
ulg the buttocks. \tVhether single- or double-breasted. the side-vented
coat can be worn buttoned and still provide ready en tr<mce to the jacket
or trouse r pockets without disturbing the line of the jacket's back.
ln spite of its overwhelming upside, the doubJe-vcntcd sce-
nario is the least popular of three back treatments. l_;nfortu-
nately. because side-ve nted coats demand better design and t:o1iloring
to fit well, the public's negative opin ion has been fed by the all -too-
common e.'<ample of side- vented coats whose rear bottoms either
kicked out or stood avvny from the wearer's seat. Along vvith the pub-
THE SurT
The side vent minimizes creasi1'tg whe'/'1. a
man chooses to sitdown.
Uc'.-, lack of clothes have never been ent husi -
astically l'mbraccd b},. rhe manufactLuing or sector. The fact
that doubl e arc the most expcnsiYc rype of jacket back to
manufacture and also the most li_keh- to in\'oh-e additional alter-
'
ation for Lhc seller.
Il o\\'cvcr. "hen its side slits fit properl r Jring flat and per-
pendicular to the ground. the double--vented jacket offers a poste-
rior guard of practicality and propriety \i\/ hile t his rear design
dispenses its duties with chm. its benefits are not limited to a
man's hindquarters. Side vents le8d t he observer 's eye up either side
of the coat's back, sublimin,, [l y imbuing t he wec-ll'er with an illusion
or greater height. \Nhen the man is in stride, the SLtbtlc concert of
motion between the re;J. r Yents above and the trousers thighs below
lend Auidity and grace to the male si U1ouette (an attribute th<lt f-red
Astaire exploited to the hi lt for his on-camera dance routines) .
The side vent's height constitutes another of
minute details that rdlect a man's personal taste. In general. its
length shOldd not e'tend above the top of the jacket's hip pocket
tlap or below its bottom edge. If the pocket is jetted. the vent
length general!) tak.es its cue from the pocket's height. although it
can finish lower. Side vents cur above the height of a pocket Aap
tend to mm e about. calling undue attention to themsel ves b)'
svvinging open li ke an unlatched gate.
D RESS I NG THE jACKET SLEEVE Buttons on jacket sleeves have passed through
,ogues. Cenrruies ago. the}' \vere employed on jacket cuffs so the vvearer could unfasten
hi slcc\'C to permit his ruffled cuffs to be through without wrinkling them. These cus-
rums :111tedare Frederick the Gre:..1t's order ro hcl \e burtons put on the sleeves or his soldier .
uniforms to encourage rhem to u e their shirt cuFfs instead of jacket sleeves as handkerchiefs.
Jacket-button logic has historical ly operated as if it were a Glbalistic language No l)nC
knows for sure why four buttons on a suit jacket's c; lccve conver superior sartorial breeding. but
th;1t's hovv LoJldons master h:J\'e rrimmed suit sleeves since tirnc immemorial. And
bec::tuse t hey have mentoFcd ever)' civil ized country in the fashi oning of fine mcns tail oJ.ing.
[ ngl<lll ds Row remains the arm of the fas hion papacy in such lll atters.
of rhejr number or functiona lin. suit buttons shmdd be set close
L' I
together. their edges "kis, ing." vvit h the bottom button finishing no more than % inch above the
bottom. (Note Captain Eden's cuf(burtons. in rhe il lustration, opposite.)
THE SUIT WAISTCOAT
__.___U tailored men's \est::. descend rrom the origi nal postbO)
waistcoat of nineteenth-centurr E11gland. \!\lorn br the postboy, or
postilion. who rode as a guide on one of the pairs of horses attached to
coach, the garment was intended mai n I)' to pro,ide warmth. so it
was usuall r made of a woolen fabric. front and back. and cut high
under the armholes.
The Wclisrcoat is teclu1ically the most challengi ng garment to
construct sarisfacroril ). s a high point of the rai lor's craft. it is
requ.ired to lie Hm as a on a surf:1ce as contoured as n potato
as well maintain a "touch fit" that is 110\\ here tight. The waistcoat
has sunived because it added gravitas ro the singl e-breasted s uit, held
a tic in place. kept the hi.rt neat and tidr and lent an effjcient appear-
:l!lcc to vvorking in shirtsleeves. It was not only W(;l.rm and decorative
but utilitarian. since the wearer ca rri ed a gold watch in one
waistcoat pocl;:ct and his watch fob in
with a gold cha.i n extending across its fmnt to
con the t\\'O.
Pri or to t he Second World vVar, most single- breasted as well
as 11lJ_I1) double- breasted sui ts were \YOrtl with a Ycsr. However. historical
conspi red against tbe waistcoat. heaci ng and the
;urival of cather fashjons in the late rwemie.s the
shedding oF superlluous clothing. The double- breasted suit was the
first to di spense vvith its customary "ai.srcoat. and then '"'artimc
fabric rationing all but the :'Ui t \ CSt a dcathblo\\'. In the
1960s. three- pi ece suits began a slmv rccO\ ery, but- the inclusion
ol the \'est i ncreascd rhe s rcrail price. diminishing its
commercial \'iabiJ it). l()day the vested suit is a or
things past and accessible on I) ro those able to afford one cus-
tom made.
The addition of rhe right "odd" w::1istcoat CJ_J1 transfOrm
enn the most predictable mo-piece, as sho\\'n here by Captain
Eden's white linen .single- breasted waistcuar with small notch col-
lar. Foll owing suit. the peaked- lapel model (c1bo11e
righO provides an ideal setting For more? meticulous \\aist decor as
\\ Orn by one of rhc dream machine, mu-;t dcbon:1i r leading men.
Randolph Scott.
THE SUIT TROUSER
1e most fortuitous development in recent trouser occurred in the eighties,
vvhen pleats and suspenders returned dress trousers to the t1attering sancrua1y of the man:'s nat-
ural ' 'vaist. vVhether plain-front or pleated, forwe1rd- or reverse-pleated. narrow- or ful.l -legged.
should a suit trousers' rise be .so low the:1 t their \vaistband is obliged to rest betvveen the wearer's
natural \iVaist and hip. the ideal balance between suit jacket and trousers will be doo1ned.
Although plain-fran t trousers have .staged a comeback. today's suit n-o users are pretty
much a pleated affair, their shape dictated by the natural li nes of the ful:l across the hip
and thigh. tapering down to bottom. Pleated pants look dressier, and their pleated
fronts provide greater comfurt d1an plain--front trousers. Hips widen when the \Vearer is
seated, and pleats this shift more easily and with less wear to the trouser. Objects
placed in a front pants pocket are beuer concealed within the pleated trousers' liotlt.
The dassicall]' designed pleated dress trol,lser has two pl e;1ts on either sicle of its tly-a
deep one neai the By and a shallower one placed toward the pod<et. This design fostered a
working rehtionship bet\veen the two pleats, as the smaller one helps the larger one to remain
dosed. Having more than two ple;, its on a trousers front intetferes. with this symbi otic function
and is simply a gimmick of fashion.
COLORS AND FABRICS
s rece.ntly as ten years ago, 1nen still spent the majotit)r of their clntbit1g budget on
fall-weight suits. Nmva,days, courtesy of high prices and fears of global \i\rarming, 1t is them id-
vveight. eight-month two-piece that monopolizes most of their funds. Perhaps the single largest
beneficiary of recent textile and manufacturing advances is the three-season suit, the wm-k-
horse of the male suit wardrobe.
\Nhether Lmtouched by hun1an hands or completely hand-tailored, today's $750-and-
up suits are confections of m1rivaled lightness. suppleness, and performance. Never before has
suit provided him with such comfort along with a sense.oFwell -- be,ing. Advanced textile
technology has enabled the top Italian and British mills to fabricate worsted wools that look
and hang like cloths. almost their .weight. Yesterday's rzoarse wool yarns made tailored
clothes feel heavy and boardy; conversely today's high- count worsted yarns make dress suit
jackets as Lght as cardigan s-vveaters. 'vVhil e vintage suits in oJ'd films appear Lmpeccably suave,
\vereyou to s1ip one on today, itwuuld probablyfeel more like an -overcoat than a suit.
The orthodox Yiew held that suits bould be in neat patterns and quiet tones. rmging
from midnight to shte blue. from dark charcoal to light gray. Blue and gray5 ''ere considered
the business basics they facllitated the transition From work to after-work activity. In
the fall. a rich-hued brown suit in cheviot or tweed could be added to the rotation.
\iVhile this limited color palette continues to direcr the selection of most men's busi-
ness suits. d1ere arc more options than e\er before. Let's focus on rho e classic suitings that
should form the backbone of the well -dressed m:m's tailored wardrobe.
THE CHARCOAL SUIT \Nhen it comes to starter
suits, the dark gray two- piece gets the professional 's. nod.
\"lillie 11<:1\')' is more formal. charcoal complements more men's
complexions. Tn the case of the young man. navy's starkness
frequently accentuates a pubescent face.
The d<1rk gray dress suir e mpowers the knovving
wearer with LUlrivalcd flexibility It can be accessorized with a
vrbite dress shirt and dark tic for uptown. black mrrleneck or
T-shirt for downtown. Such fasJ1 ion -Auidity makes the char-
coal two- piece the blazer of male suits. As the
1vWaJ1esc's most vvorsh ipc.::d worsted. the percnni.al.l y srylisl1
charcoal affords the maturing n1astcr of the uni\'erse a neutral
canvas on which to rough our the morning's vestiary possibili-
ties, readi ly accommodati11g a larger , ariery of colo red or pat-
fur nishi ngs than any other single suit shade.
Ralph Laurens birds-eye gray dress suit:
THE NAVY SUIT At the tLun of the ccntul} if a man owed one suit. it was usual -
lythe old .. trust) blue serge." Its navy jacket topped white tlannels. making the first nation-
ally accepted \Veckend leisure ensemble. Coming into own as dartime wear for the man
who needed a bridge between the in formal and formal. the navy two-p ieee ,.vas the first
lmmge suit to be accorded the stants of a modern bu iness Lmiform. Recommended fm
tovvn wear with a bowler hat. yet spruce enough to wear when taki ng a ladr to an evening
concert. rhe dark blue dress suit could transport irs owner from day to night, weekday to
weekend. even showing up at semiformal occasions when black tie was not required.
The quintessential power suit color. navy was the color called upo n for t he
t-Aichael Douglas character Gordon Gekko to deli' er hjs infamous ''greed is good" speech
in the movie vVall Street, not to mention all seriOLls-minded American president ial candi-
dates. who seldom appear on national rdevision wrapped in anything patriotic than
the color t.Ult hem of navy suit. whi te shirt. and red tie. lore cnrichi ng than stark black,
more cercmonbJ than charcoal \Yhether in twill or plain n ounces or 8, a navy
suit shows off rhe average man to best
ABOVE:
Ronald Colema11 in early lounge
coat formality.
RIGHT TOP:
james Jvfason in his stripes.
RIGHT BOTTOM:
The stylish Ralph Laure11 in
striped repose.
THE STRIPED SUIT Of all men's swnngs. none has ever
mntched the glamour and populariry oF rhe sniped sLut. At one ti me
or another in rhc thirties. rhe striped suit probably graced every pair
of male shoulders. from rhe humble to the most famous. from the
uncmpiO)' Cd w the d1airman of the board.
Although its had ro be positioned perfectly for maxi -
mum effect, rhis pattem's innate appeal derived fro m irs vertical line.
Elongating any physique. the striped worsted qLLickly establ ishcd itself
as the patriarch of aU patterned drc:-.s suits.
The ,ariery sco.ie of classy
suiting stripes are endless. They can be i 11
single. double. or triple tracks. against
plain or fLilC)' backgrounds. Lines can be
faint or bold. from subtle shadows to hair-
lines ro pins. up to pencils or chalks. in
spacings ranging from narrow n..) \vide.
vVhen the Prince of \Vales launched the
dayri me vogue for hadowy d1al k stripes.
he devared the sni pe suit to new level of
consciousness.
The striped jacket and matching
trow:cr formed their own partl1etshjp
around the turn of the cenuuy when the
lounge suit started to replace the black
jacket and odd sniped trouser For busi-
ness dress. The montage of striped S\\ ells
here illustmtes the proposirion that
when executed knowledgeably. the two-
color taiJored el1semblc can add up to
more than just a simple two-color look.
THE PLAID SUIT \ iVhile the Victorian
era entertained tart;ms and the tum of the cen-
tury ho ted checks, it v\ 'asn't w1til the L920S d1at
plaid clothi ng revolutionized the rules of urban
style. following the English trend in which "coun-
tty'' began to impinge upon "town" i11 matters of
male dress. ,\Jthough some checks 1 ike the hound-
stooth enjoyed a career. none would
become as endwinglr scylish as the glen plaid.
For the sartorial romantic. the glen pl aid
suit conjured up images of strolling in the fresh
and radiant Li ght of a spring morning. charm
stemmed from the overall I ighmcss ach icved
throllgh a refined play of vertical and horizontal
lines that intersected at rcgLtb.r intervals OYer a
houndsrooth check. "'omerimcs thin th.reads of
bright color (red. blue. rust. pin1) were woven
through the checks.
AJthougb the glen plaid could rlattQr
almost any physique. tor tailors, plaids posed
challenges additionc.1l cosrs. Thei_r
hoJizontal and vertical lines had to march up
exactly. requiring slightly more fabric than the
solid or snipcd two- piece. However. the plaid's
higher cost and complexity o( production
invewtcd it vvith just the right allure to secure its
position inn1Hsculine t3shion mythology.
THE WINDOWPANE The \VindovvpJnL'
worsted has ahntys featu red low among the
The man who raised the plaid suit: The Prittce cif\1"\Tales
1 h' "p , .r11r. l ,,
tS OW1t nnce 0 vva es.
rank and f il e. while its standing wirh the well -starched set has ne\c r been hi ghe r. Rarely found
hanging aYerage retail climes. the windo\\'pane suit.'' hen it did make one of its r;ue
appe;:Hances on a selling rlooL, tended to overstay its '"'elcome. A.-. a result of i.ts commercial
abilities, most men remain unfamiliar " ith the windowp;1ne's in. ider charisma.
for the initiated. the pattern's individu:.1liry and popular neglect arc two of its main
attractions. the third being its salutmy effect on the male ngtu-c. Longer in length than width,
its upright rectangular formation subtl y elongates. unlike the stripe. which \vorks its magic in
more conspintous \<vays. Another plus is its facilit) for combining \\'ith a second
or third pattern. The windowpane's box setti ng varied pattern mixes
DruisSH!G
THE MAN
thJn the glen plaid's ground. However. the willdowpane's dearly deJnarcated out-
line gives e.Yen less margin for error in matchiJl g.
\ Nhether in J chtucoal Hannel enlivened \\'ith n chalk-toned vvindowpane or.a tropical
\VOrsted embellished with a colored ovcrcheck. this e rudite pattern is. like Cacse1r's vviFe,
susptciun.
THE GRAY fLANNEL Though the shrink-
._
ing demand for winter-weight wools has dimin-
rshcd the appeal ofth rs icon of male refinement, .the
cla .. -;sic gray llan nel suit remu.i m; a paragon of cool-
'"'cathcr stylishness. Ever since the famous I9')0s
novel The in the Gray Flannel Suit immortalized
t his doth as a symbol of <Co rporate recitirude. colle-
giJns, Jd cxecutiYcs, Jnd i\ Iadison Avenue clothiers
have reg<n-ded it as :J , .,ardrobe staple.
Soft rather than :o;tl f( with just a plnch of
texture, rhe best gray BanneJ eschews at1y hint of
sharpne:-;x or nevvncss. exuding that sl ightl r wom-
in, old- money look associated with genteel taste.
Owing to advanced texti le technology Englar:td's
;Ind italy's top weavers nnw turn out
'"orsted with the authentic "English +1an-
nel" look.
Like the \Vorsted. the medium-
gray flannel is dJc perfect foil for accessories of aU
backgroLmds. \Vhethcr a soft-spoken button- dovvn
or st:J.rchy spread-collar, dr<;ss shirrs nccbvca.r
of every description are welcomed by gtay Hanners
sumptuous repose. [ mbu.ing its a rda.. "'ed elegance, the vvell-cut gray flannel grows more
ll:ttterjng with wear (see page +3) .
THE B R o wN SUIT Perhaps no other mJlc vestmer1t has been more maligned over the past
fifty ycar5 than the brovm suit. Firs:c. there was the old British saw about never wearing brovvn i.n
town. Churd1tll once impugned it as the nit:u1tle of a cad. The khaki-dad legioJ1s of the post-\IVodd
War em eschewed brown bccaLJSe it reminded them oF mi li taq' service. while th<S i,r brides felt
thatrhe shade aged them. Finally Charles Rcvsons highly publi cized quip about brmvn making men
l.ook l. ike "'shit" pretty much resigned it to the wardrobe of the nonconformist.
Brown's reprieve from suiting obl ivion came during the tenure of Ronald
Reagan. whose personal affinity for the disgraced color rerurned the brown dress suit to public
currency: rorn1nately for the modern S\lleJI reared on a srcady diet oF na'i'Y or charcoal, just a& the
twentieth ccnturr about ro close its
books. fashion restored rhe brown sqit to its
smte of masculine Folio\\ i rw
v
dosel) on the heels of the marrer .;er's par-
tialirr for walnut- toned mer black
'' irh their na' v or charcoal suit. all 'orrs of
I
bm\\'n suddenly starred silL)\\ i ng up
on the of the better-shod.
ln 1939 Esquire presented :1 "thought-
ful sh!d\' in charcoal bro,Yn." inrroducine
J v
an outfit it judged "c.umosr pettccr fo r main-
taining a due degree of formality for definite
town occasions.'' Back when jmu-
nalismfocused on individual dressi ng strategies
as opposed to generic fashi on. a rna11's com-
plc""ion. vis-::-1-vis his dothjng's colors. used
to recci\ e exrcnsi' e em erage. As a result.
chocdate-. blond-. red- . or sandy- haired men
were conrinu:rl l}' encouraged to consider
brown as one oF their staple wardrobe themes.
\Vhilc there arc those diehards who
refuse to consider a bro\\'n suit. there is no man
"ho cannot wear one to personal advantage.
T he dark brown suit offers man)' Yitnte.s. rhe
first being its freedom fmm dependence on the
predictable blue and gray. The second is rhar
the dark brown suit is every bit as dressy as the
naY\': like clurcoal. the richness of brown's
J
darker bue harmonizes wdl with dress .shirrs
of aU shades. from gold to green to tan. \\'ith the
of the dark brov.n worsted and
medium-blue dress .shirt attracting consider-
able :reclaim.\ Vhether in a winter or summer
weight plain or pin.stripcd. doubl e- or si ngle-
breasted, the brown suit wi ll alv.'ays
be a povver plarer in any male wardrobe aspir-
ing to permanent styl
The dark broWtl suit is every bit as much a power suit as navy or charcoal.
ABOVE:
Ray Mifla11d sll'athed i11 silky gabardine.
BELOW:
Sir Anthon)' [den i11 wher1
a soupron qfsltwt was viewed as a
touch of class rather than crass.
GAB ARDINE For rhe ulti mate in I ight-colorcd sui r fa re,
i11g bears colonial tan gabarcline. Since its introduction in the
thirries. tbc cbssic has consistently ranked right up there on
rhe I ist or idealized dress suits. Cosrlr tO weaYe. expcnsi\'e ro tailor.
and problematic to press. the rop-qualit) ne is neither <cl
wintcl' nor summer suit but an intcrsea.son opt ion for t hose with
deep-enough pockets ro aFford its ddicatc and limi ted
"earabili t)'
\\' hile noL as SLL111ptuous as irs \\'OOI con(rere. the cotton
gabardi ne rwo-picce oilers a .soothing alternative to t he l)' pi c::l ll )'
dt'}'. firm- feeling u opica l worsted. The fine cotton gnb::tr-
dine "uit "ill wrinkle. but sarin)' freshness and cool suppleness
offer the humidifi ed cpidcnn is a princclr measure ofcomforr.
SUMMER STANDARDS For when the seasons
'
changed from cold ro \\arm. so did the te.xture or lllcn'.s tai lored
ck)tltc:-.. Fabrics became more buoran t. drier to the rouch. wi ch
incrc:::tsed pomsi ty for better air circulation. Voiles. ai rtex wen,cs.
and open-mesh dress shirts helped male torsos. \\'hilc
Palm Beach worsteds. cotton seersuckers. and nubby silks helped
layer bodily zones for hot- dimme Cl1mfor t. G;ntzy si lk grenadine
and li ncn neckwear com plcted t he su d:Kc- i merest picture.
\\' ith the disappearance of the hand laundry and the com-
mcrcial i/.ation of the process. the 111<-ljority of these
highe1- mc. 1intenance summer materials went the \\':1) of the two-
toned spectator shoe. I lowe\er. a few of the are sri II avail -
able for those interested in unearthing them. Jlthough they <lrC t:1.sr
becoming extinct due to t he public's lack of exposure to then1. 'v\' har
has rendered rhem i ncrcasi ngly lc::;s commercial mer the years arc
their surface properties. such as sheen or texture. ' vhich todar arc
either misundersrood or neglected. The following arc classic suit-
ing-." hose particular were bred to prmide the wearer with
comfort ;;J nd coolness. <1 nd still do.
Seersucker is , \merica's most icoriic summer suit. "\ Nh}
should the \ 'Cl') cheap remain the pro,ince of the 'err rich?" asked
Esqnfrc magazine in , \ugust 1936. This rLun pled- looking cotton li1bric
first became :1 srmbol of the rich and sociall y secut'C beFore the aver-
age man Fi nall) e: 1cccpred it as somcth i ng other t han a poor man '.s .suit.
,\lrhuugh not an C:\pen.siYe t:1bric. the all -cotton seersucker will go
right on ticking " a) after other luxury gam1enrs ha,e tossed in the
towel. Tbdar in medium blue. brown. or gray and white oxford stripe. Singlc- or double-breasted.
v.rorn '"ith a necktie or polo shirt. the seersucker suit offers a bem- benter stylidu1ess trans('cnding
both lovv and high fashion. (Sec page ro;;.)
One of the few sLunmcr suits capable of holding irs crisp good looks has always been the
vvool mohair suit. Toda)( vvhcn fine baby mohair is mixed \\'ith superfi ne merino ,,ool. a crcnse-
resistant fine blend results. leaving the old moktir suit stilT md old-fashioned by comparison.
Unfortunately. because of the dulled ILtstcr of mohair's swtacc. its sensibility i5 frequent!) identified
wirh its older emhusiasts. the"' hltc-on-'"' hitc-.shirted. bLJbous \Vindsor-knotrcd
Sjncc its debut on the Ri,iera in the late twenties. the pure silk dup1oni suit has al" ays been
the last word in sumJ11er chic. From its well -bred bcginn i11gs. the silk suit ,.vit h its natural glossy
beauty :md superior draping quality wa .. a status symbol, an aristocratic gam1cnt made only by the
prestigious cu$tom tai lors and top m:u1uf:lcrurers.
Todar only one mdl in ltal) weaves thi..., Lm.ique
fabric in its original quality and narrow width.
Tl1e classic shades arc cream. brown, blue, and
elephanrgray Combining the bcstofnantraJ fiber
vvorl ds. this shantunglike nubby silk material is
drier yet more luxurious to the touch than carton.
resists wrinkling better than .linen. and
\Yith more Auidity than fine worsted wool.
Pri11ce Charles. backdropped by the tropic
ptt:radise of Hawaii's Btg Island, immaculately
rigged out itl silken Savile Ro11' dupioni.
TH
THE ODD JACK.ET
B;tllk in the Nineties when eil.lly American
6rat battled w.ith bogey arrayed in
.red coars (\!sed to wurn non-player.s of im-
pending dnnget) Brook,-; Brorhm began to
make odd jackets>.ready-mnde, Over this
pedod of furry to fifty years; we h.rv.e inrro-
ducel:l ;t[ld populh.riied .in country more
of tbc mn:ious British materials, pcrrhap.s,
than an; btber establish ment. That th<:se.
Englisb and Scottish rwedds cheviots
C:Jn suU oe Imported by us in exclusive col-
ori ariel .. as clearly demonstrated
by ow cum;pt ... is n. ofgmrifi-
dltticin to oum:lvt'S illi)d pur customer!; alike.
l])iil wll/wriJ ;, <rlr Ilr,:w Jnlll
b'"Kl(l:/ "".scu! .J4U if our
nr(
-!J<r (J;U'!}r1'from t'tf(Jt I tm"
In t he period foll mving \\/orl d vV;:rr 1. d ischargcd veterans
thronged to depc:t rtmetit stores and. haberdashers to make up for the
deprivation suffered in the distant trenches of ElLrope. The era offlam-
ing youth was unfolding, never before the American man more
inclined to try sontethi11g nevv and diffe.1ent. The postwar obsession
with sports and outdoor activities encouraged fashion experimenta-
ti on. wirh the main are na being spotts dotJJes. The New York ekgance
of the period meant looking wel l h1rned out but comfortable. From
thjs tin1c forward, the virtue of comfort vvould be an evolving constant
of men's In a few short )'ears. the CQntentporctry sport coat
would become the hallmruk expression of modern men's clothing.
for sporr have a common progenitor i11 the Norfolk
jacket of tht mid-nineteenth cenrury: Forty years later. ir reappe<:lred
with .its original detaiLi11g iJ1tact. The later Norft) lk jacket of 19 r8
111 ight be caUcd the first A mei-ican sport jacl.;:et. although it was
rm"red fror1l the N01foli< suit of Hcu-ris or Donegal tweed that manu-
adve rtised as "a thorough!)' serviceable suir for men who are
young, e ither in age or spjri t. and vvho want to be distinctly well
dressed. eve n on their outings." \ Vhen paired \:vith white Ha11nel
trousers and a natty straw-.s kimmer. t hi.s summe-r outfit passed muster
at eve n the most sn.obbi.sh vatati<:) n resons.
Along with the dark blue serge $Uit jacket whit e flannel
slack "u rl ifonti'. o:f fashionable resort wear, the afil Ltent A rnerica n was
accumulating an impressive of Norfolk sL!its and odd
knid<erbockers that he could 1'11LX and l11atch. As the Great vVar had
not undermined British supremacy in the real m ofnTaBcLtline strlish;-
ness. London was nto.rc than its capitaL Duririg the Anglomanie:1
of t he 1920s. jacketings r. hri lled connoisseurs and
neophytes alike. The rough. woolens of cheviot saxony. and donegal brought a breath of
fresh air to t he slec k \VC> rsreds then popular. Scottish and lri sh n veeds. countrified yet civiLized,
represented the apex of ill t@brics ;::t.ssociatcd vvitl1 rhe Brit1sh sportsman. with the well - worn- in
tweed looked upon as the epjton'le of aristocrat ic aplomb.
1\'\'0 silhouettes came to define the earl y sport coat: the EngLish drape, with its broader
shoulders. fuller chest. slightly shaped waist. and close- fitt ing hip. and the Am:erican Ivy League
ack coat, an unpadded and undartcd. straight- hanging jacket with p.l..i.able soft roiled
b pe1s. and a three-button front. An elegant exampl e of earl y American sport jackets i:s shown
above- the Brooks Brothers Shetland sport coat. complete \Vith its charact eristic t hree-button,
two- to- butto n front_
ln those days. fo r a Fasllioll t o start off on the correct focn. it had to be seen \vorn by the
right folk. American postwar prosperity created overn ight 1n1llionaircs, resulting in "ne\1\_.,
money Fol lo\\'ing "old'' down to their r:avolitc warm-we::tthcr \V::tterlilg hnlcs. \IVith ;1 sbcial
son that demanded multiple changes of \\ ;udrobe and a concentration of socict) s leaders in
attendance. PaJm Beach became the founta.inhead !"or 1\meri ca n resort fash ion. Rcprcsenta-
ti,cs from national pu.blicarions and _ports\\ car manuf=J.cturers flocked to this elite turl to
report on the latest lcisul'c apparel of the upper brackets.
I lowever. it wasn't until I923 that fashionable den izcn, began t o witness some of thcjr
'-'
regulars donning jackets that could claim to be epamre "odd jackets." Profiled (bC'lony i11 pre-
vai li ng plage is one o f its northern habitues. York socialite ilton I !olden.
FASH I ON PROF TLE
"Milton Holden, well,know11 socialite, appears
at practically every authe11tic spot inseaso11-
Sottthampton, Belmont, New York, Palm
Beach, Meadorvbrook, etc. Here arefour
Esquire- Apparel Arts photos take11 in
February within a Jew days' time showing
how correct clothes ha.ve labeled him a well-
dressed man with fashion leadership. "'
ABOVF:
Rene Lacoste sporting the first designer logo.
OPPOSITE:
Accompanied by his wife and a friend a suit coat),
Antho11y Drexel Biddle t'n a. sport coat
was one of the era's lege11dary barometers ojmer1 's jasltiorJ.
13y the latter part ol=- the t\\ enties. the
-;porting jacker. trimmed of its countri fied
deuiling and worn wirh separate trousers in
contrasting fabrics such as flannel or gab<'lr-
dine. bccaril e the ideal expression oF ca.sual
elegance for competitors and spectators ali ke.
I it " as rh is garment. as adopt ed by
the upper crust for the sport of tenni , that
bcgat the designer logo. Dubbed Le Crocodile
br the spa ns press for his tenacity on the
court. hend1 tennis champion Rene Lacoste
had his s\'m.bol embroidered on his blazer
I
jacket se,eral years prior to its debut on his
legendnry \\'hitc pique sport shirt.
1 ftherc was C\'er ;]11)' doubt about the
aptitude of fullCricas le1ders of male styl.e to
hold their own at the proverbi81 card table of
intemarional (uduon. a gu) who could
do it in spades: Anthony Drexel Biddle. scion
of the Philadelphia Biddies. Tbe hue Douglas
Fairbanks Jr. once told nK that in the 1920s
and 1930s. t\\'O men monopolized the rop
rungs on everyone's best-dressed li.st: \iVilliGm
Rhinelander tC\\'art (the famil r"s Rhine-
lander l\ I an ion hosts tlagship
sto1-c) and our man Biddle. Behold Americc1n
style at its mosr pabician in one of my all -
time- Eworite 6.:t.llhion candids.
Although Biddle's male confrere
relic!-l on hi.s suit ro doubl e as a sport
coat. Biddle brooks no such backsliding. Tony Biddle wJs not only a prominent ocialitc; he also
was one of those rare barometers of male fashion who could singl e- handedl y reaLgn its bound-
aries. strenuous workout. himself up with tovvcl -curn- neckcr-
scarf lobs a seersucker -;port co:J.t mer his tennis swearer. and exits the court in full - cut
loose-cuffed ten ni s whites astride bespoke spectators.
\!o longer the ne\\ kid on the block, the sport coat became the centerpiece around which
the citr's leisure wardrobe assembled. Now Found in most better urbrtn wardrobes. a vvcll-
blended gray and marbe a morning or tra\d jacket in a countrr homespw1 look were relied upon
for less fo rmnl occasiom. such as a 11 afternoon's socinl call or a few rubbers of bridge in the evening.
THE ODD JACICET
ABOVE:
Brooks Btothers pleated-back
LEFT:
Henr11 Fonda i11 action-back tweed
and sport-detailed flannels.
BELOW:
Clatk Gal?lc i11 a desig1't.
___ he term "odd'' for a sport jacket \vas not occasioned onl y by its lack of a m:1tching trouser:
1he \\'ord also fits because of rhe garment's 1ndi,idual izcd detailing. In r926. the outstanding sport
coat at Palm Beach wa .. -; the .solid tan gabardine sport coaL Ushering in
the E.uKy-back jacket era. here's another of the Brooks' many
contributions to permanent Fm;hion. tbei r pl eated-back gabar-
J inc -;port wi rh a stitched belt the back waistl inc n nd fcRu
plear-: abme and bcJo,, it.
In the photograph abO\'C, a \ Cl')' routhful Henry Fonda
comFortabl )' furl .;; rramc tm the st:1gc. courtesy of his jacket's.
"bi S\\ it1g ... Function::tl bcl lo\\'s pleats run from
the belt up to its rokc. Freeing the arms mo' emenr ,, hilc fadl-
imring d1e rotatiun of his shoulder. :\oticc the consort ing of his
tweed jacket's edge-stitching"' ith his fbn nel trousers' cor-
respondingly jauntkr open lap-our side scams.
The most popular fanq - back jacket of the
.
n me
was rhe shirred- back \Yith one piece of material
bL't\veen the yoke and bel r. \ Vlwn Clark GJble '' alked
across the \\caring one. this model catapulted to the
front of the pack. 1\r firsr. this back treatment was confined
to gabardi ne. but as it gre" in accept<lllce, such
as wool. I i nen. and t\vced soon saw ::1ction.
Likewise. offbeat pocket t:rc;ltments vvele li-cqucnrly
em plored to in jeer bi r of social pluck into rhc odd j:Kket's
rusticity Ba$cd on the way Hol lywood filin director Cel)rgc
Fitzpatrick is upholstered. you'd expect him to be a chap of
cc1sual but eccentric bonhomie. Cert;:tinJ) hi splayed shirt col -
lar and foulard cascading from his one- button jacket's inYcrted
pleated breast pocket would support such a hypothesis
Another pocket permutation plaring to gentle pre-
tense is Gable's asymmctricallr angled <1nd gusseted
breast pocket. \Vhile merging form and function. it al so
seems to ht.Wc resoh-ed tbc challe nge of how ro accommo
date t he bul k of pocket square and pipe.
l r has been sajd that tbc horse imented
male sports clothes. 1\ s a result of the British
p<Ission for all things equestrian. the doth coat was fo1ccd to
be cut awav :n the from for freedom of rnm:cment, c\ cntu-
'
ally inrlucncing the t:.1iloriJ1g of suits \\'Ort1 in to\\ n. By d1c
mid- rhi rries. the hacking jacket moved out of the fields and
into the cit} shO\\ ing the influence of riding in its
extra length and ll ai 1. sla11ti ng Hap packers. and t\n:h'e- inch
side ,ents. Straiglll from the borse's mouth. here's an
Brooks rend it ion oF the classic English lidi ng rig.
The thirties also vVitnesscd the adoption or
mili tary apparel identified 'vvit h r hc Com111onwcalth's
coloni es in As i:1 a.nd 1\ fric:J. The firs t of these was the mid-
length inspi red by the SU111111Cl' uniform o( the
Eng! ish <11'111) during the First \ iVorld \Mar. Fastened b) a row
of buttons. it featured a yoke in From and back. lour gus-
seted pockets. a bclr. and long slccYes with cuff,. Different
design offshoots of this garment ha,e enjoyed periods of
rc\ i\al. and \\'ith the ne\Y business'"'casual modc raking hold.
ABOVE.
Film director George Fitzpatrick's very
"oddly" detailed sport
BtLOW:
Clark Gable with pipe and pockets to go.
TOP:
Brooks Brothers classic haddngjacket.
ABOVE:
Sifarf.or bush jacket-
the alternative sport jacket.
RIGHT:
The stripe sport coat as favored
by Princetonian.s.
a simplifi ed version of the classic safari jacket cotJd
,en' weH be in tbc offing.
I .
Although \Norld \Va_r I 1 pt,tt a dam.per on
nc\V .sport coats. when t he vvar ended. the first article
of appa rel to l'eflcct a sense of ceJcbratio11 was the pat-
terned sport jacket. Back i_n mtd=ti and cxtrcmdy
sporn;-mi nded. the fa5h ion-conscious man had no
intention of letting his nevv sport coat be mistaken for
a suit jacket. and rhc:refore bold-patterned jackets
returned stronger than ever.
In the late Forties. pri.marily on Ivy Le:1gue [am-
pu$e$, the exuberant sniped Shetland jacket loomed as
heir apparent t-o the bold plaid. About the same time.
authentic madras pl.-ti.ds vvcre making their \<vay into
fashion lexicLm college and countr) dub set. \N'ith
Esquire's" Bold Look'' ofl9-.1:8. t he American
destined to we:1r clothes that would express his new
optitlli.s n1. l1owever. no one ctmld have predicted the
conservatism of the fifties .. when the gray flannel suit
practicall) became <l stat e of mind.
From the seventies onw:1 rd. desLgner-dJivcn
exploits subjected the sport jacket to n10re experiments
and me:lll ipulations than any other piece of tailored
111en's clothing. The recent
i nrc rest in altcrnarivc busi-
ness attire has reuwigo-
rated the sport
jacket, investing it wirh a
neiV import<'UKe.
THE BLAZER
ust the Fancy-b:::tck sport jacket" as reach_ing its peak oF populariq. rhc burgeoning appc:::tl
/ of the plain-back blazer loomed on the horizon. The overwhelming acceptance oftl1e blazer
marked the decline of the fancy-back jacket, :1nd by 1938 the plain-back jacket became the lead-
ing odd jacket style.
The first blazers had been parr of English cricket club as\\ ell as other sporting
environs si nce rhe 188os. These sport jackets were custnmaril)' decorated with stripes in rhc
club's colors. omc \\'ere .so bright that they became knL)\\n as blazers." :oHd serge or striped
blazers with Aannd trousers and straw boaters became a farnili:H" Edwardian sight. Thq were
subsequenrl r joined br Yersions of rhc English naYy's reefer jacket in double- and single-
breasted models \Vith gilt button and club badge on the breast pocket.
A few English lads soak up America's swing mt.tsic between races. Both the Cambridge a11d O::iford crewmembers sport
their colors atop Oxford bags 'While the clzapp}' on the right opts for the updated reefer blazer.
A roundup cifsame of Atnericas early
bla.zers as pictured on Palm Beaclls
older attd younger denizem.
\ Vith bl Lte a11d white as the of nautical dress. navy
blazers and vvlute nousers rn?.de a dashing sports outfit for the \Vealthy
Ame.t'ican m.an of the 1920s. Being cla.o:;s-conscious, he adopted it a.s
another means of distinguishing hjmsdf 6om the masses. Whether tn
a solid color and piped at the edges or in bold regatta stripes. the light-
weight blazer became a summer sensation.
By the thjrties, tl1e bh12er began to be seen in different
soLi d colors. The stand,ud shade of dark b:l.ue so long associated
white trousers was now being by brighter and
gayer s.hades such as n.>bin's-egg bhte. deep medium hl ues. or pur-
plish blue&. vVhether i.n nne of the nevv blues or its second- nmni_ng
favorite. dark green. the blazer became the bridge worka-:
dar and weekend wea r.
The blazer ranks in cL-essiness som.ewhere between a suit
m1d a sport jacket . and its formality tan be influenced by simple
changes in modeling, detaili ng, o.r accessorizing. As the double-
breasted bl azer projects a sl i.ghtly hcightened.aura ofdress;up over
the s ingle- breasted modc.l , so do Hap pockets ove r patch, peaked
lapeJs over notched, side or no \ents over center, aJ:id dark trousers
over light.
THE BLAZER BUTTON Embl8zoned vdth its typieal metal
hardware, the 11avy blazer remains 8 h1erarcrucal t)rpe of garment
\iVhile many meH appreciate the gentility in1plied by the traditional
gilt blc1Zet: button .. in roday's les$ ceremonial world some men feel
uncomfortable with Sttch conspicuous d.isplay. \Vhile tl1e dark brown
horn button is LL"il,mll y the Brst nonmetal alternative considered, its
dLJiish chatacter l.acks the personality .11ecessary to offset the dark jacket.
The mosr rraditional blazer bqtton is brass or gi lt vari ety. Unless your family has its
own coat of arms or you are entitl ed to vVetu a dist i.nguished club buttol1 .. the classiest choice is
the plain, flat. English gilt blltton 'vVith 8 shanl<. that must be anchored into the doth. Alterna-
rjyely, men with gray hair or those planning to wear predon,j nantly gray- toned trouse1's will often
opt for the button in a dulled n ickcl or shade. In the case ofa brighter bl-ue
tropical \Vool c_w linen blazer, off-vvhite moilicr- of-peaTl buttons arc always an option.
As to the idea] nmnber of buttons fc.1r the blazer's Front and sleeves. penor'la.l taste
tends to defer to LTadi tion. To begin with, the number o sleeve buttons is related to the. coat
Front's button arrangen1ent. \Vi.tb the mosr popular jacket modd being the l\?iro-button single-
breasted. fol\.r sleeve bi,.tttons a.re the norm, et.lthough two are equally Thtec sleeve but-
tons on a two- button coat seem sl.igh rly out of balance. whereas with rhe three-button model,
th ree o r four sleeve bL1ttons harmonize h::lll dsomcly.
Judging the correct number of buttons for a double-breasted blazer is guided fir t br
its St ) ling, second by tradition. and tJl ird by pcrson<l l taste. The classic double-breasted blazer
with flap pockets i. traditional!} trimmed with six front burrons. t\\ o thnt button, t\VO that
donr. and two upper display or dress bun:ons, a formation that pretty much demands four
sleeve burrons, as by a preening Prince Charles
The well -sdccted n;l\ r blazer ofFers an almosr chClmclconlikc ver ari lity. \tVhcther tn
the country or traveling around the worl d. 'virh long or short pants. Han nels or jeans. ascots or
neckti es. short slcl'vcs or french cuffs. t he classic navy blazct remains man most accomJilOdat-
ing tail ored companion.
Prince Charles practices his
Napoleonic pose in a.
classic navy blazer.
Oot
TRO
' iVA
11.2
RES$ING
l-1 E Nll\ N
THE ODD TROUSER
the earJy the odd trouser had .. est;;;1blished itseJ f as an essential part of every
well - dressed ma-r1's wardrobe. :However, in 1925 .. Amer1can coUege .men vacat ioning in England
vvere confronted by voluminous pantaloons worn hy the Oxford and Cambtidge Lmdergradu-
ates to camoutlage the.ir knickers, vvhi ch were not allowed Ln t'be classroom. With pleated
v.raist.li.lie, baggy Jmees. and bottoms measuri11g from 22 to 26 inches, the Oxford bag ignited a
fad that swept the coun try in the space of a year.
Although their popularity went into decline
the foUm-ving year. the Oxford bag initiated a vogue
that would last forever-fuller-cut trousers.
A,;glomania at an all - time high and the Ivy League stu-
dent a major source of fashion irmovation for America.
d1ese pajan1a-width bottotns left the sryle.-tonscious
young American in favor of wider-cut slacks. Here's
the soon-:-to-be exemplar of English fashion, Jack
Buchanan. takh1g a pair of bags our for a spin.
As the t hirties began. many young men
began orderiJ1:g an exrra pair 0f trousers to nn.atch
their tweed t hJee-p-ieces of jacket, vest, and pi gs
foLus. or knickerhockers, a style that .f:lourisbed on
.golf Links. vVhen the trouser vvas donned with the
vest and jacket, the ensen1.ble coLtld be u-sed fbr busi-
ness ..and then split up for sport or other leisure pur-
suits. This development resulted in Jnany young men
revert ing ro odd trousers For casual wear because .they
vvere more serviceable than the sport-only knickers.
T he ne\N trouser Fitted dose at d1e vvaist
-vvhil'e hanging freely and easily over the hips. 1\.vo gen-
erous pleats \vere R-zed into its lTigh waistband to give
E11-gland's answer to America's
Fred AstaireJashion plate
jack Buchanan i11 Oiford bags.
extra ful11css across t he front, while
the trouser leg wai\ long enough to
break shgh tly over the in,..; rep. It vvas
thoLtght that the cuffed bottOm and
crease fore and <-liT significantl y
ip:lproved the line of a trouser, abol1sh-
jJ-:t.g baggy knees and fr inged hems.
Along vvith tweed . 1annel became a lead-
ing bottoms 6bric during t he interwar period. It
was first used in the nineteenth century strictly for
underwear. bur by the L88os. Aannel was wotn for
golf cycl ing. and tennis. ln the twentieth century,
f-lannel was recognized as a stylish cloth. and in the
late 19.10s. the vvoolcn mills in the '"'est of England
created ski llful mixtures of black, gray, and wi"Ute
that added light and dark highlights to the plain
gray cloth. establishing the gray Han.nel trouser as a
worJd,yide commodity. Among tl1e yoLlJlg blue
bloods from British societr gray Aannel slacks came
to be known as grayers.''
Charcoal flannels dealt
the sporting k ..nicker. or plu
fou1s. an early bl ow. vvh il e col-
ored and striped flannel pants
relegated it to chasing golf balls
over the countryside. By the latt'
thirties ~ hionable Americans
abandoned knee- length bot-
roms both on and oFf rhe go IF
coLuse. and the knickerbockers
went into ful l ecl ipse.
Gray ult imately loos-
ened white's srranglehold on the
upper-class weekend regiment,
because it looked more appro-
priate in winter than white. As a
result, it -vvas not long before rhe
gray -flannel pant Found its pri n-
cipal role a the companion for
any type of sport coat. 11ere's a
19-J.Os French menswear maga-
zine's depiction of this "trouser
of trousers''' vin:ually unumitcd
choice of ~ n c e partne1s. Rang-
ing in tcx ru rc fro 111 rwccd to cor-
duroy. in pattern fro.m solid to
Mens ready,made jlannel trouser swatches
foam Brooh Brothe-rs
Su.1't'Clunded b)' friends, the grayjlam1el t:rouse1 is th.e
blue bla:er ofcool,weather dress slacks.
rq
; SSINCi
: 7\J,o\ N
nnd in color frvm gre<;n to fu" n. the medium gray worsted oouse.r i d'lc blue blazer of odd
d
Today's less tradition-s;:l\'\} male is sometimes confused \\'hen the senices oL1medium
gra) d trouser arc n.'CL)l11mended for a non-gra) solid or patterned sport coat. AI though the
blue bb1.cr has long been paired" ith gra} someho\\' the inherent styli shness of such a
combination loses irs rclc,aJ1CC when the non- blazer jackcr trow;er ensemble being con-
sidered. No doLLbt. such an mersight is occasioned br the pragmatic bur instinctive!)' female
of marrr ing the pants color to exact match found in jacket. Untortunarcl). this
sensibi lity o(ten leads to rhc less sophi..,;ticarcd colo11 ization of t he sport jacket \Vith :1 navr or
dark brown dress suir- rn. 1u ... '\c r shade. This is one of those rimes where the obvious is nut ::llway!'
t he more hould you be considering a new sport jacket and are havi1igdifficul t)' visual -
ABOVE:
David Ni11e11 in gabardine trousers.
OPPOSITE TOP:
The ge11trt{ied C01'duro11 sport trouser.
OPPOSITE BOTIOM:
The Duke of'Vi11dsor nursing his pipe attd baby cords.
izing it with a medium gra) trouser.
move on.
The fir.s't: alternate to the
classic charcoal gray dress trou.scr for
the blazer or odd jacker is ci rhcr a
sli{rhtlr licrhter shi.lde of oriJ\' or a ren-
J ; r
from the tan E:un il y- in a
wool cmc rt. gaba.rdi nc. or em all')
twill. Because tan produces sl igh rlr
mot-e contrast t han grar under t he
average sport coar. it rcgi.s tcrs a !' light
dmp in rdati\e dre siness. Various
shades of cordLLroy or classic olive
drab chinos follmY next on the dress-
do" n meter. " ith blue jca ns rcsid i ng
belo''
One trouser rabric t hat
both the white and gra) Aannel a run for
its money back in the rh i rties was wool
gabardine. The silk): smooth
offered a texu.ual change of pace to the
rough, woolly t1anneL Sti ll regarded as
one the most ILL'\\trious lengths ol
"' o rs red eYer to grace a 111 ak thigh. it's
shown he1e on a ma 11 wi rh rhe leg-
cndar)' gift of "gab." the wcU-Iightcd
David Niw:n in rustic dishabille.
tl1e 1930s uni,crsit}
lll<U1 donning sport jnckets and slacks
almost every day for class. it's litclc-vvonder t hat t he
col lege c;;1mpus pioneered many of the nevv dress
trouser fasb iOj1S. Ln t he earl y thirties, Glenurqubart
pb1id .slad<S gained acceptance among Lm.i-
versity students. When wor:n \Vit h solid jackets.
they rnarked an emphatic d1ange in the balance of
pattern between the tradit ion;]J tailored sport
ensemble of solid bottom and patterned top.
l n r933, bavi ng gained acceptance at
and other Eastern ceUege campuses. CO\'Crt cloth
started t he trend for stmdier. more rugged types of
slacks fabrjcs. As another tan alternative to the
omnjpresent gray -A.annel, covert's gray-green hue
WlHked well with tweed jackets. and especial ly
\.VeD with t he blue blazer. [ n.itially tailored From
topcoat fabric that proved too heavy For comfort.
coven cloth"s endm.ing populari ty \>\;as assured
wben it was fabricated into lighter-weight trousers.
Al'ready familiar with t he ribbed hardi -
ness of Bedford cord and cavalry tvvi ll i11 the sad-
dle, t he paddock set cha.tnped at the bit for anr
oppGrtu.,nity to sport the cord trousers on tcrr:;1
firma. l n regular \i\'cights and variegated ribs. cot-
ton cords were pe1-fect fo r campLIS or outdoor
activities. H.cre we observe t wo of t he fai thful
cbnsidering . .-hich suds ro sam pie first on a Satu r-
day afternoon's tailgate
Following on the heels oF rhc 'ivider-\V<U(:;
corduroy's popularity. what better way to step up its
warm-weather comfort level t han to step down it.-;
\Veight? The DLtke of vVindsor keeps on one
of Arnold Palmer 's gol.fing nemeses. Sout.h Afric:a's
Gary Player. 'vVhile always resplendent, the Duke
tones dovm not only to avoid any backs"vi.ngdjstrac-
tion but also to accoFd wi th his light-color complex-
ion. Details worthy of note a.t'e his low-fastened
tweed sport jacket '-.vith short side (Ycry fred
Astaire): cuffed baby cords: and nionk.-strap shoes.
\\lit h the coLl ege ma:n ret-:urning to classes
afte1 mil ita ..ry service. the arrinu on campus. of <1
military type of work fabr.ic in rhc fall of T9-1-S came as no surprise. Chino cotton trousers in olive
drab became d1e new uniform. remaining a11 inrcgr:1l part of the collegiate rnai1's wardrobe for
the rest of the Forties and ioro the fifties. By the mid-fifties . gripped by the emerging gray liannel
conservat ism. sport slacks .gained 3 back but lost their p.lcats. cuffs. and swagger. tape t-ing
down tO Li / 2 inches at t he bottom. The plain-f ront model maintained a dominant position
throughout the next several decades. courtesy of a , cries of fashions that pushed the trouser '
waist down to the hip: d1e fif6es Continenta.llook. with its lew- rise pant: the sixties h ip- huggi_n g
blue jean: and the low-slung suit trouser of french designer Pierre Cardin's seventies si lhouette.
I ronicaUy, the century's last two decades witnessed the remrn of the t:lllored trouser to
nearly the height .of its pr:e-World \ Var l l stylishness. \ iVith t he drapey swathings of ltalian
designer Gio rgio Armani and the 1980s miru- reviYaJ of the 1930s look fu ller-cur trousers
made a comeback. And along with its softer mien. rhc sometirnes suspendcred. al-ways longer-
rbe trouse r resumed its classical positi on ing on dJe male's natur;;l l waist.
As the new millennium picks up pace. men's tail ored trou -e:rs are dividing into two
camps: the "updated classic" as represented by the fuller-cut, pl eated-front torm: and the
"moderne." as configured by the harder-edged, pJain- front. trim-fitted -shape. The modcrtlists'
slack "de leek'' reflects their preference for pared- down. uncluttered sifnpli city. for the fashion
vanguard. this cuFAcss bottom's lov, rise and condom like contour otter a sexy antidote to the
loyalist s' large r-volumed sill1mtctte. For t he fashion savvy. tb_is dernier cri seems vaguely tcmi-
tuscenr of a former leg-hugging ocial equalizer. the blue jean. except that now its chic can be
dispensed in any one o-f three shades of black.
CLASSIC ODD TROUSER MODELS
"-v"' t men's dress slacks <lfe made with belt loops. vVh.i.le trouser \Yaistbands and
belt loop djmensions are not immw1e to fas hion. t hose accommodating belt 'vidths ranging
from 1r/
4
inches to 1
1
/ 2 inches -vvill always rcm;;un impervious to obsolescence. Along \\'jth the
traditionaJ plain- and pleated- Front trouser models. seYeral lesscr- knm,yn odd slack models
continue to ct.uTy favor witl1 the better-slippered buck. \Vhether n ;UTOW or FLdl cm, the foll ow-
ing v,raistband beatmeJ1ts have maintained their fashion authenticity and insider currency since
their jnceprion back in n1enswear 's pre\var heyday.
THE DAKS SLACK The Daks waistband \Yas invented in 1932 by Alec impson. the eld-
est son of Si-meon Simpson. founde r of the English llouse of As an avid golrer, Alec
shared the irritat ion felt by fellow go'lfers when i_p1peded by one's braces and disordered shirt i.n
the course of a swing. Trained as an engineer. Alec decided that there must be a better way to
WITH THOUGHT S OF SU MMER rnrhincl,
we 0ffer you a few suggestions from
vast at'ray of appropriate
clothes. The left-hand figure seems com-
fortable in a double-breasted suit-worn
without waistcoat-at 6.12 .6. The saw-
edge straw hat and the whangee cane add
a touch of seasonable light-heartedness.
Right, the Daks trousers are in hGpsack
'(30)-) ; the striped sports shirt (3Q/)
being neatly topped by a foulard scarf.
The Slach- the
first self-supporting
beltless trottser
construct a sport trouser and came up with the idea of a "comfort- iJ1- action slack. the first sci f-
supporting beltlcss trouse r. In memory oF his he named his creation Oaks, an acronym
combi 11 i 11g "Dad" and "slacks."'
f irst, r-ubber pads we re sewn in ro the waistband to hole! the shin in place. Then, on
either .s ide of t he waist .. self-cloth tabs vvith buttonholes -vvere designed to connect to a con-
...
cealed band of elastic running t hrough a tunnel loop around the inside back of the waistb<111d.
This permitted the tab on either side of the waist to pull forward and fasten on one of the t\\'0
side waistband buttons. bringing additional tension on the waistband for support.
Although sporr- i nspired, the genui ne Oaks top waist design is expensjve to manufac-
t ure and therefore t ypicnll) found only on higher-priced ready- made or custom- milored sui t or
spo1t trousers. Heres one of the earlie$t ads Fo r Simpson\ bcltlcss classic.
THE SELF- BELT Bet\reen the v,rars. the demand for 1ighrweight sports clothes encour-
aged innovations in beachwcar. The sci F-bclt design remm ed the bother of having ro pack a
separate waist rigging. \Vhcn cotton slacks \\'ith matching tops sauntered into vogue For resort
wear during the late twenties. the convenient and easy- to-fasten seiF-bdt model ga.incd
furthe r acceptance, cvcnmally infiltrating gene r:1 l and dress trousers. A matchi ng
ODD
T B .. OU
\ iVAI
sepatatc or attached hdlf self-belt was
USLiallypn. 1Yidcd with eiTher a plain or
con'red D-ring, as modeled here by
actOr Errol Flvnn.
I
THE HOLLYWOOD WAIST-
BAND The popLJ.at'ity fo.r h_igher-
trousers in tl1e Hfties spurred
the re- eFr:Jcrgencc on the \VesT Coast of
a model initially created 1n the thirties.
Apdy tenned the "T-Iollyvvood.'" this
model featured'a one-piece
front and back. 'Nitl.1 narrow be.lt loops
po.sitioned bel ow the trousers' top.
Jvlodeled here by "OJ' Blue Eyes." the
Hollywootfs design and
lo,vered bd t loops necessitated nar-
bel:ts. -vvhith were ro hdp it conform more dosely tO d1e we<:rrer's waist-
line. One v:1riati on on d1cme \Vas style such as Leslie Hmvard to sport his belt
buckle oFf to the side. pu:rpo.neciJy for com fort butprobably al.so for svvagger.
TOP:
Errol .Flynn. wea1'in.g a:
se!fbelt tweed troi1se1.
LEFT:
Frank Sinat;ra st.wrounded
by a Holl.ywoo.d-st)lle
waistband.
RIGHT:
Leslie Howa-rd sp01'ting
his se!fbelt stylishly
to the side.
THE ODD WAISTCOAT
t her th<H1 coming upun an odd 'postboy" langui shij1g about one ol Londcm's anri-
men's emporiums. the last time anyone -;potted the genuine odd wni.stcoat for :-,ale on
American shores ,,as back ,,hen Brooks, Chipp. J. <lnd lii plers still basked in i\ lad ison
gloq: The odd ,,aistcoat \\as one of the chromosomal P's trump cards in his lor-
mer dars of peacockcrr
J\ cursory suney into t his Ameri. Glll tr;;tdilion begins in 1928. the Gatsby era. with a
lil1t'1l in pastel shades of tan, gra). and blue. ft \ .VJS apparent!) in such favor that the
trade paper j\ fens \\ 'ear decreed that "the linen 'odd' vest is an item in the ward robe oF
e\er) man \Yho :.111} pretense whatever at foUowing the fashions." By the
smarr countrr attire spawned a ne\\ w:.1istcoat. the tattersall vest its colors cho-
sen to harmonize with the :-Kcompanying ho1sc) jackets. Younge1 men who had never worn the
odd waistcoat berLli"C '"'ere cauti oned to remember that the loude r its hue. the qui c:te1 its
style should be. ''For instance.'' wrote a Mens \\ 'et1r editor. ''t he t;;ltre rsall check is almost
in the single-breasted model. while the plainer. more consctTative
colors mar be ' porred in the double- breasted model."
B) the 19-!-0S, <l semi-sports outfit ,,as not only acceptable for city \\'ear
but according to Esquire. "it to be The 11ew det:.1 i ling oF semi-
sports clothes \\'as an outgrowth oF hunti ng and ridi 11g togs. Unfort unatel y
despite the separate \'est's nJtiona1 sponsorship. the per \\'as
waning. During d1e \\arrears. it was dealt an insurmountable blow " hen
the \ Var Production Board dLcrced that doublc-breaHed suits could no
longer be manufactured \\'ith 'ests. \Vhilc the checked. plaid, or brightly
roned solid odd ves t 1emai ned :1 fixture on mall } hJ League campuses up
through the sixties. the Pencock Revolution u-;hc,ed in the shaped suit,
eflccri\'cly killing it. By the early se,rcntics. the peacock had distmced him-
sci f from the postboy.
[\en though the current ,,orkplacc has the sport j:.1ckct
Cor dress-dmrn dut). unl ess t he is similarly mobilized. the sepa-
rate vest is not liJ.:ely to be seen storming the front lines of men's fashion anytime
soon. This is a shame. because the snapp}' odd weskit could al\\ a)'S be depe1ldcd
upon to inject a bit of\\'himsr inro rhe wardrobe.
The tattersall waistcoat em semble.
I I C
Ooo]Ac
Tn o USB
lSTC
"Since you asked, sir, I tecommen.d a plain white sl1irt
witl1 that su.it and a no-nonsense tie. "
Throughout most oF the nineteenth century. all gcntlenicm's undcrclothirig was made
of linen. The word "linen'' bccatne a generic ren11 for a tnans undenvear. The dress shirt func-
tioned exactJy like tbe modern T-shirr br keepilig sweat mvay from the outer garments while
pro recti ng the body From the coarse outerwear m<1terials. HoweveL propriety demanded that
only its coll ;,1r and cuff be hence the term 'showing linen" mea11t that vvhire at the
neck and hand was a sign oF gentility. As recentlr as the late 1940s. it was as shocking for a man
to expose his dress shirt in polite society a!) it would have been for a vvom8n to walk into a
restmLrant wearing no over her brassiere.
<... L'
The modern dress shin's shape developed dnri11g Vkto6an tim.es as men don ned tight
vvaistcoats. fo'rerunners of the modern vest, thqs rendering the :full- cut shi.rt obsolete. Once the
HltTent dress shi rt's body shape \\:as establ.ished. the col lar became its most distingtt.ishing and
Elsl_;.ion-setisitive feature. In Uho. a hcmscv\'ite in Troy Nnv York. changed the face of
J Janna Montagut: \:Vas the wiFe of a h.1stidious blacksmith who insisted on a clean shjrt
every eveni ng to arrenq his ci\ic engagements. Vexed by the daily drudgery of laundering. she
I iberated both the s hirt and herself by cutting oFf the calLus. binding the edges and
and attaching .strings to hold them in place.
At first, Mr. Montague .,IVas disturbed b) his detflchable coUar. but the idea caught on
among his fr iends. and soon Th)y housewives \Nere snipping away. The o\\'ner oF a general store
recognized the commercial possibilities of this simpler shirt and started some in
his back rt)Onl. Almost overnight. Troy abounded vvith shops cl amoring to tt.un out the detachable
collar. [n fact. American sh iiT-makinggiants such as Clueu Peabody and Phillips Van Heusen fi rst
began as separate-collat' manufucntrers in the Tro) area. Septtrate collars rose to the pinnacle of
t'"a."hion in the years preceding the First \iVorld VV;,u. when the commercial artist J. C. Leyendecker
created the m<lle eqLtivalent oF the fmnous Gibson girl. the legendary Arro"v Collar Tv! an.
As sportswear came i mo being during rhe second halF ofthe n century. so did
the 'Separate double, or turricd-down. coll ar. However, wru- forever changed its destjny \ 1\fith
five \ll.ill ion men serving tkt'i r government- issue soft shirts. the vvar
dce:1lt a blow to the stiff collru from which ic nevet 1ecoveted. By the 1920:.; , a-itiGS
la,mented that the United -tares \vas alone in its espousal Gf the shirt for town
\Year. By the early 1930s. sof1- double collars were accompanying the new dinner jacket. a dt:vel-
opment that sparked considerable debate. Advocates of the stiff tollar regarded it as the key-
stone of classical male cleg;Jncc, the last b2stion against slovenliness.
U L
A youthful Anthon),. Eden (preceding page) dons a dress shiJ'twith a stiff. attached straight-
point collar. Notice how rightly knotted allrl therefore. smalL the ,knot had to be to fit into it'5
starched e1'1virons. The knot's positioning tlp, into. and directly out from under the stiff collcu's
inverted ''V', -point became the cr.iteria of smartness for the emerging :mft-collar fashions. as
the tailcoat mentored the dinner jacket's evolution, the older .stiff-coll ar,s design 3bet_-red that of
the newer .soft deconLm. Even todar. a dress shin appointed with a pwposdy tied
neckie 3ffecting :.1 crisp knot si tting high in its collar is stjiJ a.n expression of an authoritative and
polished practitioner.
PLAY YOUR BEST LINE
ne of most important but least unde rsrood Functions of male attire is to the
viewer's q 1e the Unde,standing the subtle balance rhe1t shoul d ex ist between a
m:.111 's most visible and e'\prcssive body part- his the clothes that lead up to it is a
prerequisite of fi nc dressing. By , .j rn1e of its pro xi mi ry to t he r=acc and irs con Figuration of angle.
scale. <llld mass. no article of m<tle apparel is better equipped to enhance a man's countenance
than the appropriately shaped dress shi rr coll cl r.
The triangular sector formed belm' the chin by the "V .. opening of a burtoncd suir jad<.et
constitutes the cynosure or a man's cosnlmc. Sc,cral dy1w.mics work to direct the '
focus Loward this area. First of all. iris d1rcctlr uoder :1 m'"u,s most ani mated featu re. his Sec-
'
oncl this triangul<lr encasement is b) contrasts between the darker jacket and
shirt, silken tic and dulled or matre etc. gain. keepi ng in mind that t he face is t hat desti -
ll<.ltion where one's dress hould be escorting the attention of the beholder. think or the face as a
picture ::1 nd wh<:lt sunounds it as rhc frame.
'vVhcthcr or not the. color or pattern of a dress shirt coordinates perfectly with an outfit.
irirs collar is too small, the head wi ll appear large: if the collar sits too lm\ on the neck. it \\:ill make
the neck look longer than it is. The choice of a dress !\hirt should be guided fi rsr and foremost by
rhc appropriatencs1-> of its coUar to the
\\ eatTI's rather t ha11 the ,icissihtdes
of or "'him.
Ghoosi ng t he appropriate shi rt
collar requires a bit of experimentation
and a li ttle common sense. A pic-
ture requjres a compar:1ble frame. just as
a small er man with delicate Features
requires a coll ar of more restrai ned
dimensions. Conversely. when the con-
tent is more expansive, t he frame must
enlarge ro aftord proper balance withouT
disn acting from the intended focaJ
point. Just as large t;;lblctops beg for
ample pedestals. heavyset or big-boned
men require more ful ly proportioned
For e.\.ample. former President
Clinton compe11satcs for his larger jaw
with slightlr spread \Yhilc balanc-
ing hi s Ful l face with generous!)' scaled,
v
THE CYNOSURE OF THE TAILORED
MAN 'S PRESENTATI ON.
Founder qf'Black enterprise
magazine, Earl Gnives employs a long
poirtted full-scale collar to balance his
lionesque visage.
long- pointed ones. Both Conan O' Brien and Dmid
Letterman pos ess pronounced jaw! incs and favor dress
shirts'' ith brgcr-proportioncd collars on camera.
T ht length nnd spread of the coll ar points
should compl ement the head's contour and size. Long
straight- poinrcolbrs. those 3 inches or more. with li ttl e
spread between rhei r points. \\'ill extend and narro\\' a
"ide countenance, just as the broadly spaced poi nrs of a
spread coll ar will counterbalance ;1 long a11d narrow
l1Ke. Long- necked men require taller colla.r.s with wider
neckbc111ds that laisc the coll ar's height. whi le short-
necked men need lower-sitting coll ars \\'ith a more for-
" ard lope. The tab col lar or other pin-affixed collars
pn)\idc the additionaJ height thar can diminish a long
neck! i ne. The writer Tom \!Vol r:C presents a fairly srri k-
itlg image \Vit h his lchc.1bod Crane-height
almost Victorian in thci r sri ffness and grandeur, but
they do camou!lage his longer neck.
Collars .should also counterbalance the f;.Kial
structure by ejrher sorrcning dominant or strengt hening its We;Jk ones. Long-pointed
collars th8t are either pinned or buttoned down will help to coumennand Faces with angular
SMALL COLLARS MAKE A LAROE
HEAD APPEAR LARGER.
features and strong lines. A Ful l t hat .sags around
the chin or checks dema11ds a stiffer collar to counter-
act the effects L)f age grm it). \ Vhile soft burton-
down collar<; arc classically tyli .sh. they are too ortcn
fa, ored b) rhe double-chinned set, who should
avoid them in I ieu of,, sl ightl )' firme r collar.
T hroughout 1 980s ;:111 d llluch of the J 990s, ill
an effort ro give men a more Gl."ual air. fashion designers
Lmfornmately tried to neutralize the dress sh ids nad i-
tionally dignified and ordered format. Dress shj rt colbrs
were .shortened. lm,crcd. and softened to such a degree
that their original stylistic precepts we re either distorted
beyond lecognition or lost completely. Abbreviated
button-do\\ n coll ars could no longer roll. shortened
straighr-poim collars losr contact with rhe shirt's chest.
and spread collar.s sat so low on the neck from t heir
diminished colh:tr bands t hey vvcre sapped of :;:dl
rhcir inherem llair.
MEDIUM TO LONG STRAIGHT-POINT COLLARS
WILL NARROW A WIDE COUNTENANCE.
SPREAD COLLARS COUNTER
BALANCE A NARROW FACE,
Other than the Jermyn treet or odd bespoke product.
nowada)S most men nre wearing dress shirrs \Vith coll ats roo
small for their face t hat sit roo low on their necks. And. '' ith the
spread collar's ren1rn to the fas hion forefront. those men vvbo
have adopted the so-call ed or full -Vlind!'ior tic knot have
succeeded only in e:'{accrbati ng the problem. as its bulbous mass
inYariably fo rces the coll ar's already truncated length points even
farther off the shi rt's che T
forhtnatel): tO\:va rd the late 1990s. dress shirt aesthetics
began to follow that of suits br returning to their
roots. Fueled by an I tal ian reviYal of classical clcg::uKc and rhe emer-
gence of artisan- made cl othes. bigh-c11d menswear stepped into the
new millennium on bespoke footing. A plethora of ready-made
dJess shirts are now beginning to 1-' eanue coll ars that no longer h.ave
to apologize for their style-defining presence.
Tom \!Volfe's t:alkollar
cammiflages his long neck.
LONG NECKLINES REQUIRE
HIGHER-SITTING COLLARS.
iS I NG
Mrl N
ON THE FACE OF THINGS
nlike less ,isibl e accoutrements such as hosier\' or shif't cuFFs, the shirt coll <ll. is <111
J
integral and highl y of personal style. All sophistiGltcd d resse1s have <. UI"i\cd at
one or more collar styles tbat best hi ghlight their unique feattue.s whJe adcLng n bit uf dash
along the The foiiO\ving men hmv tbeir physjognomy and a( style inAu-
cttccd their choice oF colbr.
THE STRAIGHT-POINT COLLAR
,;ccausc the srraighr- poinr collar was the colJ ar shap.e gracing mos t milltary- issued dress.
shirts since

1, it has long been the foundat iun of the mndcrn mans dress shirt wa rdmbe.
As t he most stylisticall ),. neutral of al'l coll :: 1rs, t he
str::tigh t- poi nt coHar can be worn wit h kind of
sui t or spo1t jacket. Ideally, its collar points should
finish bet\VCCI11. 3/4 inches ond 33/ s inches in length.
The narrow opening between irs points favors a
rou.nde1, oval-shaped face. rarher than a nar row one.
Here is rt man who chose to ti tle his autobi -
ography Lr Tt.Jol< Nine Tiii!Grs. As one of
great early Leading men. Adolphe vvas also one
of its lead.ing dandies. Jl etc he is tailored to hi1:i own
measure in a with jusr rhc righr
amount ofcakulated disobedience to pla) the hanied
poli t ical boss in Frank Capra's The Mtul Behind the Presi-
dett t. I-:1 is collar's casual deport111cnt not only de fangs
his aggrcss i vel )' .stri ped bespo kc su itiJl g but also serves
to elongate his OV<D contours.
11= you \vcre fceJ i ng unensr that rh is. coll;. lr
presentation was overly consider the
ne\:t victim. Here's a dJess shirr perJormauce rhat is
dcfinicclr layi ng an Engl and's ll oward
pictured tak i11g stl'oll on deck as he returns to
ELuopc aboard the SS Berc,ngaria (and, let's hope. to a
Leslie Howard i11 a collar stylt
accentuates his mtrr01vjac
glXKI Jcrm)'ll .)trcct I low he has ro en me up \\'ith exactlr Lhc wrong collar
For his Face is <l nyonc'.:; guess. Its long ::md \ ' l'l") perpendicular lines pick up whcle or his
r:lce k;n c otf. rendering his a I read) gaulll e\en more bnk. If there C\cr \\aS a prj me C111 -
d idatc lor a rt. \ la.stL' r I lm' ard \nmld be it.
THE SPRE1\D COLLAR
lh ..' '-pn.'.ld O:\lhJr the kc} srane of rhr rngli h bespClkl! look slllCC the doub)c col
lar ro nm 11 during rlw 1920!-i. intrl1duction "id'-'1} auribmed to rhe famous
<.11- probabh due hl alk:ged t:rc-alinn oC the knot dml \\as supp 'ed to
i I. In it fGlll) lti-.;} oungcr hrlll her. rhe nuke nf Kc.Jir. who first p0pulanzcd
])l'G1liSC or lht: inht:l'i.:'llll) d r\''iS} nnd L'legant Dl.'::tring. it h.L become
mosf implll't:lllt dress CL)IItlr .\, .spread \:11') gre;:ul} 111
hL' !gh t. pur m lengll1. :liH.i open there are usual I} sCh>r:II model. Ihnt
wilJ llanc.r :lily ma11\ head shape or profile If ani) for \:lnt't). some \c.:r
.sinn ul sprlr11J cdlar be a fixLnre 111 all mcns
\Yard robt.:s.
\ lrlll'ugh Prince perfccl mb]caux of ro)al
b, being caughr wirh his Cinger in hi ear. hi-. collnr
reclllre pot (top The height, point Jengrh. and of hi.
Turnbull & \:-"er glen plnid coll<1r Pl'inr..,; arc pcifecd) '} rnmetric:.1l \\ id1
the conrour.s or hi-; I.Ke '-otice ho" the. collar\ rouch hb che..-t
I'Clllt:li11 i11g under hi' coat's rront. e\ell \\ht?n head
wrned, one o( the 'rrcad\ p1anical adv<.lntage." O\l'l' In
the: drmplc o( hi, knot falJ, Jircnl} u11der rhe
"\ "po1nt ;Jt chc coiL.11 top , \nd ju.st for good nor icc tb::u hi ...
c cuA-ha-. not rcccdl'd from ,icw, l''\cn when hi-. 31'111 e:-;:rend'. cour
tCS\' nr tb longer !'Ice\ L' and cJo,e fit of cuff around hi' "ri't
' ._
lkc.lll'L' rhc majority of ltalia11 men are lllO!-t
fanq 'cr.., Jon of LIK -.pread colbr. FabJO Borelli. one of lml} \ nl'\\
gencratton of scions. j.., 1111 c'.ccption. A ... t:1p .... r ..
do'' 11 almo"t tl1 .1 pLHlll , the $prcad collar 111 fan. tlw onl) po,,ible
dcs1gn to such a conrom:
ha-. L'mplorcd l11ghcr-sirring 'Pf(;'.1d ro betlcr
F1-a.me " l11 lc t i 11 ken ng \\ i th rrad 1 tiL'll wi rh L) piGll I t:&l i.tn5prr::mmi1
Pont think minutL' rhm Ius cnlbr', :-light bo" ing. the
minutd} .mgle ur hi' knot. ('\en the pcakmg ('lr hi .. de\ under
bl:ldc h.1ppcn tl1 bL l.:'oinCidencL'. Tt) rhc conrr:Ir). 1his demon,tr:ltton of
noblesse IH:gligctKe 1., .llh'thcr rcmindcrL)f:.m culmml prcdi ptlsl
rjon bv l r:tlr".. :-t\ k ro conrinualh rc'h'rk rhc c .. mon ... ofrng
u '
I i-.h r.l ... lC \\ hu ,,,b r har the male j, an} lcs drcorari' c minded
--------------------------
---------
-
han fi?m.1k: lit,,, L'\ cc ltkc ... of 'l) I i.:-h habil i llll'IH. LTll'-' not i 11 r he.:
elm he-. lhem cht!'' but in ho'' rht:} '' ont
llerc. rhc -.prL'::td collar ,:um \\ irhJ,or knct' champiun. the I.HL'
acror .lnd Jllthor 11oughb rnirbanb. Jr. ThL lllnlllL'IH Clllbr Jnd krll)[ hit LL)JJ
d n luruor nnmediarch e1doprld ir. l.'\('ntualh bcr.Jmin\! its ...,nu h1irb.tnb's
J '- .._
cnthu''' m 111.1\ haH" h.1d nmch to do'' ith the klll'L and cnll ar's .Kccptancc b) rhc
beau monde as" nh it-. alleged rhL I )ukc l)r \\ 'i nd-.lH
....
1.! 9
TIH D Rf.SS
SIIIRT


OPI='OSITE:
\\ 'dl-proport(OIIt'J spnad
collars as li'OI'II b}' Priuet'
Chtrrlts cmd Fa(,;o Bol't.'lli
LEFT:
Dt1ug Fairbanks witb spmul
collar tlllcljitll \ Vindsor kuut .

j
r :. II\ l
l .\1 \ N
TilE COLL
"ulbr shitt t",d). \riJ Lllll.tr stgndltnl lllllllh -r ... lup iJJ Pllt: uf the \\nrld' m' t t
it!' tllll11iker. the .. ,J,,b .. u)lbr I frttlll'U' \rrd\\ t:n11.ar ad .. 111 tht t..lrl h' 11
C\.'111111'} l!clpld ll) t'lcutc ll' llrolbr liltht p.ulth..:t'll ('fda ... ,cdr"" H">
.\s .1 .llt.tdu!'d ,oll.lr the duh cniiJrbeL".mre m "l p P J.uf ,flu
... h.tpl':> 1u be \H'J"il ptlllll.'d IL' l.'lll"\\..' pl.tp ..\J p.trucul.trh \\dl under dtL' Jc\ tdc thlltt II
\ltlt,,uglt dw cnll.tr r.uLh c.l\tH'l!-i mHtmg thr..: ma'- t: tfu, huld hr fh m
\ it ruri:m !\l)Cll'l) '"a11 l)ff.hlOil dl} hl' lcmnd uh tht cu-.tum t.uf, rt d 'll
Ilens o11t' \mtTtnl
11ftl5t J1slt fmralllt' Stltrtlll t t'S,
4\ Iilwul Jilfdrn. Jp1mill .. 1111
carl}' imoc,ttiou, a slwrr. st[f}:
totlttm:Jt cf,, r,)nu:
Tl-IE COLL;\R
tgun Ill thl' JlJ(,(), \Jthough it' pnpul.trin h.l:- \\:111cd due til(' or
m.-IIL' J:1 ha,lt the t.Ib coll.l r 11 .., a fd\ 1,ll"lt C ll ( k iII g t h :t t ('X tra Ill L.:.liKC 0 r n;H L j 11\.'S'\
..
T lt .. tah \..llll.1r tutht be the tk" knot h.l cPml1)r-rablr in ih l'Fk'tl
mg '-pect.tll.tb-.la.'lL'Il rl> c.tch Luh.ll'r the tic\ km't tu huld tlw (lllhu,. pt)illt" in 1 hnt.st
mg cull:w .mJ rJtckrie knot higher up llllLI .. :r d11.: chi11 l t,llg r1tl' l l "ckurne
rht: rnb l11ghcr po moiling "hile the t\mnd or \ i..;agc 11s lt..)rrgitLII...lin:ll
,, mnwtr t )nguull) a 't'f-"''CCial br.t':- srud d culbr I<l d11.. ncckb.md \Yhilc Ctmnccting 1
cnll.1r t,Lh'\ '' irh pre .1rrachL'd mb
lnlbr drc " lun a nr a burmn :nkl
bmwnh ,lc w.ualh substlllll\:'1..1.
1 ltl\H:\Cr ,1\ "trh mt,:st uld \Hlrld ,,c,u
.tbk 1 he ung111.tl bra's 'tud :;ull pn,jcct' :t
tn'll polt"iltcJ llph tic .. nton tl1.1n it' Jc,,
\ t4iu.JI mc.xil.'ru urrog3le'-
Hnt.lin'. .111 \\t.'r tn 'l\
'
suprl'lll,t(} ',( \ nllnc.t\ I red \'ram: w.t"
tlwtr l1\\ n tLlrt} rhe"pi.tn artJ huofcr l.h.k
nudt.m.m In be cnllcd :t .. Hnch.man .. \\
J \))mplmtl'lll. the
knL.,_, lu ... \\.1\ .lround J fi room \ nd
...
tha' Hu h.m.m gtl\ t"ould outfit
"
\\llh th. ocst ot"thcm
jm:l.: Hudwuau, the
always natty
,md Britams tmsncr Ia
Ameriuts fred ,\stlllrc.
L---- -
T
I j I
'rllr.DRlSS
S If nrr
I)l.NNED COLLARS
t one pt)tllr during the half nf all \mcrican men \\Ofl: du. .. Jr
cll llnr pinned. fod.l}: It" nuld be surprising to flud unc.: man in .1 hundrL'd o appumtcJ
\nnw llll'H lfth.lthe pinncJ C"01Jar ru.SS) : 11101\l IUL'Il ar'-' imirllld3ted b) lt"i ob!Jgatuf} nggmg
hr ,hi n ..:maJH' to bt: rlw pinnnrle ,_,r carnage tin 1s nor
t r:1pping w hide bdtind. L'tllik,, 1 hl t:t l t :m ;1) or hul wn du\\ n. rhe pinnl!d coll.1r"s
()J' Ctlls ill n:l:lli(lfl l't'l l'llL' or its C:>:t?cution. \\Laring it \\llh dt.>mandt, .lin
rJc pr.htkL'. "l)fi1C tll.111UllJ dt:>\'lL'I'it}. illld ;1 bi1 o( p:tt it'lll'C.
runctiu11i11g lllLIC"h likt' thL' t:Ih, thl pi1111Cd \-\)liar l';li l'.:i the ric knot L1p Oil illl' llCCK -.hort
Lning dw ltl1 tg_llcd-=. The puitll '' t:n \\ C')rk w countt.'rpoint the rounded or O\J) con
totm .. d nr chin. Hack in their hl'htl\ in the thirties, strnigln-nninr collarc, \\C'rt Gm hed at
, , ..._: r
bet'\\ ec-n 3 inche.' ond 3' 2 inches long.
rhem n3rural for
\.
pinning up. The mo"t common app.1
r.nu' "a ... a pbln gold .... Ift:q pm. llC\l
was a :-;on or :-,I ide mcch
i111i!'lll; while the aftciunado a bar
''it h sh:1pcd end,., Ull!ilJ'C\\'tX-1 10 fit
through colla! dcts
Tht next step in 'ur:h collar :Kcou
tremenr wa' m a(quire one dccrm11c..-d
'' ith a 'porring molif such .1!> a goli
dub. pol ..., malice or riding O\.lp
following dte 'aml'
nf . ..:h neck rigging. lhc pinned club
rr.m ... 0nc quieth 01110f dte
ordinrtl) beneath the
1 ic ku0r. rht' n_,m1lk'd Ct,JI.tr t .. lt:' .ue
rite "e<1rcr':. '""JII.1r ltcighr. trs


LEFT
.''lllk.s Fifth i\l't.'nuc: former dUJ;rmarJ, thr fl'iT
-
Plrilip B. j\ filler, dmmiug his sigmzture
collm 5tcum! h}' a simp it-gold pm.
-
--------------------------- -- - ]_
....---------
I
1 Riclt,ml Mrrkit1.
t,;, ned to .
-#: 4 ..
A...f.O. J:IU.J'rr\,
. .. ;1;; wwt
. 'It;
.. ,u;,. 11\.RAJt
l ftt:r rmrndcrllUtline panicubrl} well
\Hth rht: quJn.- or angular j:m line \\"id1 no ...
to curl up. bend 0\ cr. or go .tSke\\. the rounded pm
collar trnn &md rid} throughour the d.1y.
\rtto;,t \\ ntlr and York roiT
Ptdutrd pins lu' collar to perfection (rigl!O.
Tl-fE BUTTON-DOWN COLLAR
ntta.1fh popul.lnzed b} port ... men htstcrn uni' men during tht:
and ll)JO-. the oxford ,\mcril:a\ CI)Jit rilnll itltl IU o( pcrntallCtH
drc \ htrt fJshtOtl Sfnce \\ C.'lrld \Vnr 11 . r llt'LJpC:lll have descended upon tlw
door rep uf lt'i hrme. A\l!rtuc. to lo:1d up 011 this uni\.]liC AnH.'nran Utuil
rt.:ccnrl} nu elegant male could t.rn(url stripe witlwut at lc<lsr one 1\rollks pink
tl"\tord gracing hts clo"l.;t
\\ rth dr..: tgner men \\t:ar helpmg to blur the disrmctton :mll penn1
nrnr t:Bhwn Brook<> ha! fun her muddied the \\:Her.; b) abdicating f\Jic a.' the ptl'tcc-
of \mcnCJ tr.1d1ttonnll"dsluon \s goe.' Brooks . () goe. rlw buttt-.n-down The 1\1 l caguc
l k \\.1. the l.tsr parrictJn men\ fi1shion to establish it"elf betorc the mors of!\ mcric;1's
upper -cLt di placed in the uphca,al nf the 1960!' Pcacack RcYollllion. \Vcrc H 11ut 1;w
- --
l
- -- --------------------
- -----
the \ i"ion .md m1s uf IL1Iph I .mrtn
Ka'... \'eq O\\ n ,Jwuldt..T '1' It \hlUid
h.t\L' lu-. alm,J nuter 1\n,Pl. Brurhtf
i llLl' rll1rial ccltp"L"
rradiwm.tlh (hd l nntmt 111 I. h.nl
i11n,uc da !11Tll:'11), Lxh )'\.:Jr. .1 'm til r,ucril- ( (
nnt.4 ltnlian ml.rchHH\ up tl"iCI\\11
1.1ke 011 1 ht! h l.t?nguc look lT\ l ))J
ll nng.L:\, I & \menc.Ui "iftCic[1 dl in
pl 'n or Palm
\ Vltt."n :J necktie thl hutwn
..
dm, 11 collar prLljCl."l' the :o;:tmc lrhl of
.... inc-.!- as the hl.lh'r llr \\t;it.'Jlln 't\ It!
lt:1lcr. t'\t' uf ir, more fiequcm rocnn-.pir:unr ...
I ike Llll' blue bi.IZer. [ht: buncm dll\\11
c1n bt> dn?s..,cd up or do\\ n :1hhwugh 1t tn
t"O t l!'-nn lllL)rc omlunabh '' ith l1kc lc\.t-un.:d
"LKh llmmd ur "' l..'td fn rhr burtt. Ill
dnw11's all 'l)'IL' \\.1!\ ,!Juuld
its pl im.; brk kngth h) rnll t>h'r .md
pl,t: r:I-.wtl.
-----------
ABOVE:
Scquestad .uniJ irs cir:.o 1950, the
buttotJdowJI is jllwkcil br otlrrr ll)' Lraguc
both1 jldt's, sl!} i, 5houldtr tu wd span _jc;ckct. m![ird
smr.f]mwt'ls.foulmJfallr-inhwd. ,1,ll>Jkiu \'rst.
1111d s/ri'Llll ttlt'Ctast'ns..
LEFT
uhtl like rhm:fi1sJu'on
unlmtttltzt'd. ,,bstn.: Bnrbtras sldglu
..
tlf/umd. Nm btli/Jt'riH ,,, brlfl.tiiJ his
.
lrt 5t't'mS ftl trmrtd 11 blind l')'i: tothasr <1U his
J1dm t15 wdl. Barbera ...' 51.}'/ ish
Jut bt'c'' parrlr inspired br his Cl'lll1tr}':' ol!'lt
at'srric. Gmr1ui .Agm1li 6-r.rpagr :!Jo)
..., .
--
- 1
I
"' CRO CtofFC"K 8LUI! BA"llSTE
1.
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ETON BLUE ENlXJNEND BROADCLOT>-t
\mH fANCY BOND STREET STRIPE
C t t M B ~ V GRAPH CHECK
L!Gt-flWEIGI'iT F.ANC'r" WEAVE
BLuE 8A'n5Tff.
HIGH-COUtiT MULn-TRACY. BLUE
BROADCLOTh
OLIVE l11NI.CHECI\ POPUI'f
0PCrtWF".AVE l IOHTWtiCHr
BLUE O>tFOnu
COTION/LUiEN PASTEL BLUE
MADRAS STRIPE
f1t lfr1t f ilii
( OFHIFLQV/1 R BLUE
PoPL.III
,


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'
,,
'
0!l .. iFT BI..UE P!14CIL.-5TR!PE BROJ-\C>Cl..OTH
CAMBRIDGE BLUE C.-.rm Sl?JPE 8ATIST
r
. '
CRIMSON HAIRUHI! CtiECK

1-
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FITTING TJ-IE DRESS SI-IIRT
th rht:"' ex\:epriun ;..)(the wh0 t\ll
d11..' t1..
1
rhl..' fir of rhcir dn . ..:s' mo:-l
men \\C;Jf roo tight iu the neck roo in c .
...
nnd hXl tl.JIJ.uound The explanm ion thi.s n ...l

"hri11k rlw collar .sizt and


kc' '' mo't manulacturcn ... 111,)" cnuugh cttFr

,, idth a l.ugc ... izcd watch to drhe rhrough.

,hirt u.;de'" \\ ih the top bunon f\\O
should be .1blc ro ide com tortubh bet\\ ccn l he neck and
I
rhe coll.tr or,} fl('\\ ... hirt \lo:.r fine .. ltirr :tdd all
l'\.U'il hnlf inch to the collar r1..1 al111W i(lr
.1geduring the fir r \\a.;;hing' Should the
drt:'- shirt ftr W perfecTion \\hen fir...,l tl'll'd 011. l'l'l'lll'll
nor risk bemg 'Lmnglcd bcf0rc ro") long
.\-..the WI"L):-. th..! shrrr should l.it'
5EMl-'SPREAD COLLARS
SHOULD HAVE NO TIE SPACE
AND POINTS LOI'fG ENOUGH
TO BE COVERED BY THE
JACKETS /'IECKLINE
fun.auh \r a mmimum it :;hould be cut full t.:lll'ttgh ro :tlh)\\ Llw ll) sit without cotKt'rn
\\ fwm \\ ill.(}lpl' opcR r\Cil mXlll:ll.shrinkagc 1JI' \\l'lght galll' shottld nnr
ili.."l'Ch' che t o1 \\ ai't. The :-.hi n'.s (l\ cr.1lllc h shoukl be rhat \'( 1u c:m rai..;e \ 'Our mIll' " u h
...
(lLTt it pulling out of the trowcr rop.
\\"hen n necktie is worn the collar\. point.s tlltght tl) .1blc m rcm:1in in t0uch "irh the
hu-r' bod} no m.Hl'cr ho'' the wc.an:.-r llll'll' hi ... hc.1d Sl.mi spread to cut.1\\ .1y should e
no th.' p:tccabme thL ric"... knor. \\ith po1nL' lung robe bv rhc neckliue.
'\nd finLilh nu nf the colbr, ncckband out n\l.'r rill' knnr
\\ hether barrd or rrl.'ll('h cull
rhc bin nun tit .lround ihe '' nsl
., th.u addinonJiltn,glh required ll'
the cul'f from pulling bhck wh1:n
rhc nrn 1 e'\rendccl rtnt ir.
dm, n d1t hand. hurt cull and hand
... huuld mm e :l"'d.lllt!. If tlw hand can t-1i de:
thn,ugh thl' cufT opening \\ nhout 11rst
nnt:l,tt>nmg 1t tht' cuff\
'' httl l.trgl!
------
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IF THE SL.EEVE l.Et4GTH ANO CUFF FIT
CORRECTt...Y
1
THE WEARER SHOl)C..O BE
A13LE TO EXfEND HIS ARM lf'l ANY
WITHOUT THE CLIFF
PUU.ING AWAY fROM THE WRlS-r.
0

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DR.ESS Sl-1 I fZT MODES
{1:\l men arc r;ntght tv tlw dre's slun a a harmomzerof the uit and lll:Ck
tic \\he' ll tltc g.n g,_., 1he IH.>L"ktic into a rior of the drt:,., \\.lS
forcPd t \.1 t.1k1-. a backsc:lt \\' hik the 'l"bd dn.' "hin pro\'ide), :1 blank can\a ... ou \\hach tc.l
------- - - ---
imprmisP theaccompli,1t0d frequemh optlrnrht
shin tn c the foLal p HIH h:J \\ hicb tilL
necktie suit ja\rket llll!Sl rltcn pa) Jl.'fercnce
The f ngli!'lt cia's'} tl!!lll is rcspc Jllsihl\; for rcahgtt
llH:'I lt ll ,. rurnishing:-.. Ill rjme..'i, 111U"f uppt't' I ngltsh
llll'll t ) pically "orl" on I) 1 .. tiL' rh.u d1c) \\ere emnled tn
b} 'irtUL' .._,r a publi-.. 'ldmol. milimq regiment or pri\.HL' dub
a((i I i,n inn. the- 1) piral [ngl ari.stocr.H CllJO} ed no more
rhan a or so of these ht
era' at cdkcrion "3!:\ thereion.: h:u
TOP
Punctttilting 11 plam
backdrop. the shirting's
bold srnpe lights rtp
both center stage t111d
1\Ir. J-lo111ard's l'isage
LEFT
\ \' ith "polka dot
dress sl11rt and a
breast packet
pattcnnrd .srlk.
Douglas Fairbanks}r
tmmps up his so/rd
.suit cmd tic.
limittd. -f(, he ronk ll'\
ing ht-. "('mbcr "Or'-ted .... md duh
tics wirh ')llappicr- k,,_,king drc....:..: ..;hin
bcgcm acculllulming more dn.,.,, 'hirt' rhan
lt!nnyn ltkc "a' 1lc R1.J\\
bL'ltm.' it. an ro
lhc cr:Jft t,fbL"spt'lkL'
A::. nt?xt piC! ure.. an:e"1 du'
, pirircd :-hin nltcrnariH' ran ll'nd
-.m;l ro r he wilorcd '' i l hout
compromi.-.ing the boundanc" L f ,ood tJ. te
lkc.usc rh1" m11ar on .1 lugh dt.grce
o( cnuntcrpGint hin and 'Ill'.
j[ t ('t JQ\'01" dll' htglh"'r l'Oiltr.l'l (0111
plc\lun. I lo\\'C\ r. n !len !ng :-ouch -;1 tn )1\.iintlt ion l' no
.... a Cc" \.1f nl'"i \\ardn.A>e ..
I h.::\ r Ll) d r d i 11111.: r
Iktt cr culbrcd and ll"l'king quire .. urc of himself: rhe
.lLll)rTrt'\Or ddth Hat pre:-

cmaril'll b, c:1sL JrL''' -.hirr in the leading rt..ll'.
' ..
--------------------------

DRESS SHIRT f\ ESTl-1 ETI.CS
n addition ro tbrrcring d1c dte drl'' 'hin dllluld t) with an ourfit'_... sqk and le\'d
..
of formnlit} \\'hile \.iiffering collar ,t Ct)lllh'tl? \af) 111g degrCt.'' of dn.:s' up so Jtl certain
,hirt fitbrin .. fhe rica red "ould lllH normnlh pa1r a butron-d,m n \\ ith an
dct!:lllt mn, nor would lw marc dn>" -.ltirt "1rh contrastlllg "hire collar wiLh a
... .
c.bu.tl t\\t:ed 'Port jackL't. Although rhe attitude of modern men\ t;1!'hinn
obfu,c.-ntctl mall} o( guidt:'lim_ ... ., that ,.l(l...'gu.lrlkd glluJ sc,eml thnt :11-c .st ill
rcle\alll in "hether a particular 'l11n will add <11' from nn cn.;cmbk's
imcndcd dre,,i
\ ,bin' nr the collar. irs lllt)st prominent and defining feature. The
nffer rhe collar. the more lormal1t' lntcnriun-. more t>pen rhe coll.a.rs point' rhc l.lre.ssicr
rhc prc.!'enranou . \ conrra:-ring "hirl? Cl.)llar aurnmat icnlly adds ccrcmOn). while most tab or
pinned heighten the solid or patterned dre"' .;.hin' pruprict\ 1.\ofrcr collar Cl)ll
such the buuon- down or u nsrarchcd long po11n rank lower on rhc formal i r; .scale
The cuff al..;o COil to the overall d"fcG. Tht formal sh1rt's stit"C '\lllgk cuii which
<c.
accompanies the whire r1c Jnd tailcoat prc\Cilh the lllo-,r formal arrangcmcn t \ Vhi le L he
f rc..:nch cuff the hand more than the Sl<lndard buvton vartt'[\'. the double-button curf

;mtr .. mb the tngle-buuon in wrisr dl.'cnrum .
....
f .1bric 'l'rvcs as the next indic:nor 1.1( Cnrmnlil'\. \moothcr L)r more
'
nrl' drc' icr broaddlJth ranks ab,mt t:qually with" hitc-on- \\
1
hite broaddnth in
iq. '' hile "hire ro) al oxford run:-. a dusc

,nik' summer inches (lllf rlw


pmpoinr. \\ luch the same ro tbt.: rcguhlr white nxrord.
\ for nomdurc solids. blue brnadclorh registers bd<)W white-on-" hiLc but abmc the
\\hire oxford in torm.lln} \Vhilc blue L'lll1-on-cltd :1bnut equally wirh white pinpPint o:\:f0t\l.
pink. pan.tcubrl} in broaddorh. is nor lar behind. ft llluwcd bv \ dlnw t)r gold. ran. and then green.
A }
fhc or a fany --hining is derermined b) the amounr of whirc in the
ground \\'hite ground di,play n mon:: id ious air than a en bred ground !:1bric. mak
ing them n step up on the fDrmali:Kldt?r. !11 n stnpc 11r dwck wlh..rc is the
ground the bdder pattt:rn denorcs the .... dn.::-S) l-iner srripl'' ;trl' lllOI'L' rlremn11i.1l il.
not than widely "P1ccd ;;rripc". \\ hile:: the dJc dlcck. 1)r plakl i11 pallt'rmd
-.hwung. the Jre!'sicr the ((feeL l n gutct';ll. n wdl t h:lll t ht:
o;;amc running\ cnicall).
-
TilE OR.HS
SlllR'T'
)R f." S"' :-.: G
Hr. M-,z...
L
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S I-1 I
ltlmugh pure trndttionall) been color of choiCe I{ r a dr\:"' 'ihnt
medium rnen\ fact?" thnn l)um \',hire drain J\\,l\ \\hJt lutle
na1uml rolor lllt'll {:'Xtrdc kk' {,i,Jn "ill ad' i c rnale tt) dun :1 blue drl'"' "hln to
the :-:;wdru's -.trtHlg ligl11 ing. "hich tend' tt ll.uJt.n and \\CJkcu tbL"
a a mnPc.:' l'xpen-.i'c :Htm ltl thr: irem plxed on it mediUm
blu'-" t..:nl iH'th :tl l men rnnL\"i. r\ 11) dor Lll' n. pi.Kcd un llf nc.tr a 11 nc llt mhq medium b-lnc
:'hin wnrn1crnnd richer t\tl(';l't half of a JlJ:lJ]\ dll!C'n
.... hnuld h.k:lll} he itt '!JtlK' 'hade t)f blul" or in :1 predominant)} blm: panern: The l pr\J\
1
dc tht:
mo:'l \CI'!i:Uile b.h . .-kdr ... )p rl) a 1:1ilorcd ,hn-r gatL'fnld)
"-.uurnll1: 'nme blue ,Jffcr n'mplcxions moru help than t'lhcr:-;, bm then.: an: m
'L \l'ral <)f n1Ldium hlul' tltnt notabh imigorate C\Cn mnn. kin lOne nnd lu"t'-'r
' ... .
The trick i:' rind the dt?L'f'C.'t ol-blue tlt:1r highlight!' the face without from
it.. \nd It_: ...(, rH.ll be misled b\' l1\t.'fC:l.St. .llllll)Sl ru\nl that have been JlTlllllOh.:d of
I '
l.nc \\ith ,olid The} art? ret another nni\'C :.Iberr.ltilln frnm good t.Jstc
and pt..:rmancnr red by dw irJLhl'u ,.\ Jh ..:c-d for -.bon tl!rm Jl)\ dt} and pro in
, \ 111n11 "ith .srroil!l in hb Cl'llll1kxi(l!1 G11l L'llJ.O\' ,1 lnrgcr nlO\!e of colors. mclud
t I '- V
ingdL'l'P t1JtW blue-. like dlL' \-\cdg\\Ol)d -.hade.> fotl111..1 in l'\\ 'l ph hnJaddnlit
rn}.1l 1:\l(ltTL ur cnd-un l..'nd cnthlll:->. l air ... hairl'd men'' irh nultl'd r.111 hal
<llKC their tone" '' ith ,l,t't blttL'' ,ud1 a-. md mint
,,j,o,l u-.c \\hnL' to reduct: the blue's intt?n.sity. \\' ith t.m.thcdcrnh ofhluectJn
bL tl play up the hcightcned colnr contrasr bct\\ccn ,l....iu and hair
Cream or ran can be though thl!_,c dtl mure f'-H.
the muted than rhc cnmpkxion Pink is .1' too fcmminc .1
far ho" L'\ '-"r. d1e ptnk butttm dP\\11 :1 lindtpin ,,f hultlc fort::
lor fift) }CUrs. Pink tlancn th1.. dweked Yi:-agt' \\'hen bcdu:-kcd \\Hh "comr.lstmg
"hit'-' L'olbr. and p;litTd with a dark gr.ty l't' :-.tnpcd ''or.srcd. the pmk end on end drl'!'
.-.hi n , >I' b r, wdclut It d l l't t:"Ollt i nw: .... t.s :1 perc 1111 ial (a, reo Crill' Jenn n . L 'er
)cliP\\ t..lr guld toi1C' <ll'l' highl) de!'irablc bur .;rrnilarl) unden:lht(d -.hin
L.;nlikc blue. 1 he'' dl, han: a drawback \ ILn ,\It h ,,,lin'" .skin nt?ed to -.t-ecr de1u ,11-

nul their dwmp:tgnc "F"'rklc Glll impnrr an cl.lll .md \ielliq t('l .lll} suit from the
thn.'ugh thc \!rav.s t_;t)ld j .. fn.:oucml} u,cd :I' .111 .Kcem LOior in mnm p3ttl:-rned ncrk
"" '- 4 "l
l iL=' M l j fa lllilll ha:o. lied..' of blond j l'Cht)i ng It Ulldt''l' l he d1i11 i:' illl oppnn liJlC \\:1\ ITI Jllu

mina1c Lhe In t:h:L, rhe bold \'clkl\\' \ll' gl1ld 'l drc.'' .:-hin .md bhllcr "ilh glldld
.

PA-\TTERNED DRESS SHIRT
__ ...-omplexu.:m .aL o rhe dtLlile l)t" t_1ncl' the :1mnum o( (l}lllJ"<l.!-t
ftntnd 111 rhe .tboH" i.he dcg.rcc nl.(l'lllra.sr bckn' h:1irlinc.
pm penctl. ... h.ldlH\, BengaL , .. tricgarL'--1 ... rripcd cnju} ptlpulnrin on
dw circuit In the dlL't-k t"amil). the pin. mtnJ:nurt graph. and bo'\ t:Jttcr .... Jil
af-;l) h1uhl} (igurc_, \\ ithin rhe cor1Jl11nrc lh.l.1rdn)<llll.

\\ hilc it\ roO\\ n Lt1ll Jll.tll) simplt bluL' and "hitL' 'ifl"lpt.:d dn.;:-.s .shirt'i the ,,1111c
C.lll bt ,JKI ior duN_. dr'--'"''}' mini ... rh.n t'IYc('L .1 prL'dl,min:mrh b;KkgrnUtlLL
'mall f:tnq blue l'heck nppcars like .1 '()ltd from di!'ltallC'L'. ... tnuring [he fi11e ch,xk
fcr .1 blue soltd lcud-. an .1ir 1.lf with n.;k t,l-ru,,lnc"s "'lnpc' or check'
"Hh red .K(l'llt .. '\'liii u ruddier L"Pmplc:\il)n. whik) L'lll.)\\' l.ll' f3\c,r the 1:1ir :-.kinnl.'d
ur blond mJn Lu bonk \lr !'limplc grt'l'll graph chec-ks un whitl.' grl1ttnd-.
an. n lt .. h. under rhc das,Jc l'J"a\ \\'l.)f",h:d su1t.
r 1 b ,
\\ i th il '' h lll' ground srripc or check. a co1Hra'r i ng \\ h 1 tL' ftll b r 1' .1! \\'3\'" .111 npt il,n. and
It' lu tllrical pro,enance ,Jmuld nor be Thl' '' hitc col!Jr drL'':- -,IHrt'- h:1rl..

buck w the d:t) :s of the .. collar. -ltkb). unl) the
nJUildcd. club l} pe (prcfcrablr rinned) 1.ll' \
open .IImtl"t (ll[:J\\3\ mndcl nrl' "t' Jj,h cnnugh il,
4 ..
hold their tm n \\hen C(Hltrasrcd again:-.t n different
...
color or pancJncd ,lurt bod). ContrM) to
uplntlHl the cunrrn ting \\hirt.' coll.1r Joe' llOl rlxluirc
a mJtdmle \\hire I n:nch cuff ro maintain it' pt:digrl'e .
1lrhough a d\lC' mon:: m catch rhc c?} e. \\' !tile the
m.Jtdung I r'-'nch culT L atcl'ptable .. 1 buuon
cutT h.l" no place at the cud of a ,J('c' e rn a
\l11rr" th a contrasting\\ hire collar.
------
Tu r D R.FS.>
SHIRT
..

DRESSING TI-IE 1-IAND
hi n culT usuall} C\ oh nh collar lc-. and durmg
tltt L'L'llllll"), curt!- ,111J colbr!\ rnnn} famrcs I d .. dlc
blttlll. .;inglc Ctll lnt: till.:' cuff n.::ctangubr and uA1,
I
rlhed. The cuff could ai.M' DL' or double hut It ''.IS tltt: Ia ncr
that came ru ig11il) fonm1lit} "eparmc cufi-., lske rhe dctarhablc
'"oll nt. n ,uiJ be l'l'\l'l''l?d '' ht."n '..111l' edgt. wa'
In thl lllllL'h .. 't:IHh (('llllll'). thl' cuff \\i})oi orlL'Il left unbununoo .lt
the :md could hang h:1lr :tn incl1 bckm the :'llt:c\e a thrm'
b,Kk tn the dap \\hell dw -:hirt \\:1:- cothid\;-rLd .1
pmtc(t i' c b) l.:'r again'il rougher In mudcn1 nrf( t"anun
1\,lkm:-l irs forcbl':ll, ,tc.;thcric "irh ndded thar a hmt l,f hin
linc11 bel('" Glll make 1hc ;Jrm kmgcr. prO\ 1ded JKkc:'t\
kngrh is Cll r rcct. J\ with "'H'rl <WllS .shpulJ .th\:n!\ d11 ..
'"'- 1 r .t;.
l)l.h;111d ..
\mcc rhl' i 11 :1Cl.orth1Kc \\it h a mnn facial C\lJfC"
drama and ctnpha'I' 1h1.:' h:md an n ... o.,harc of JC..'-
focu' and cumnl\l'f<\) J ILrL nh>st rentt\\ncJ daJJdroftht.>
carh (\\ cnticrb (('Jlllll): pnct r )1\nnunzi) (t..lp). .... huonng hi'i
cuC(, .. ln11nmacul:ne rh'- 'riiTculbrand cul"fdc.\:lfC h1s
w pnruc pcliccttun.
T he dcb.HL' bcm ccn 'ri IT 'l'pntarc collar ... and ,ofr LJI1C'
had much nf irs 'ream b, rhl.:' time bunon-dtJ\\ n comJoj,!'.rur Fred
.J
\-;t .. ltl'l' .1ppcarcd in tht ncx1 pil.ture . .t\merira, O\\ n ma,rer oi -.tage
5crcctl .. lth.1 "orr st\ lc liked hi' Hroob bunnn dm, "ith ju t
e\cnrhing Of\ drl'SS\ wLdding c1rdig.m lie even
\..- '-r
pinned Li1L' collar dL)Wil jlL"t tLl . ho" it" ho wa' bns!- Perhap:- ir \..llll'
jaunn tll .1 .. \qajl'c'!' Fulded ... tun cuti.
pia)!- t lw pcrfrct tn ht!\ coll.u, unprcdi(t:Jblc roll (a:urcr) L1kc:- 1he
clothes al" :1) s appcarL'd In PL'fpt'LLtal morinn
Thmk 1 he .shirr cuff" :-imp!) a milormg comn' ance
10 join rhc ,Jcc'c ro rhc" rist? k:m C\xtc.m Jidn'r (bnrr,mr)
CL'llllltl'\ 111<111 did for the jazz Yiolin. deuttcd
rhc orn:1mcnr <lr Lhc "1 ;,r wan an dr'-'-"ing hi ... h.md "ith the ... 11m?
crcati' in he imcstLd in ... 'j,ual.

THE SHIRT MONOGRAM
O\' ncr hip
hen laum-lq ":1!' fjp.r scnr tHrt ""(till hnn11..'. rhe 11hllll11"<lll1 was used tn mnhcnticatc
lu the heHi:n l'( men"_.; t:1,hwn. br.llL''. iniualcd belt bth:kks. :1r1Li
S I C'
embroidered pucker b.llldkcrcllrL'f, ''ere pllpuhH gifr, (rom w u:-hcr" "hilc rLgardcJ .1 ....
of .ll"fc"ri)n (rom rhc ltKhl\. 'lli11C men Cllll'ldlr rhc drspla) 1Jf i11itials
,OiliC'\\ prcrcllliolb. \\ h ilc l.H her..; .lpprcc i.HC ll' :1 \ ig11 n r i n"ln id i and Cjll<ll j l} .
"-111cc d,c: drc'' 'Ll.' until \\ell rnro the 1930'
lllCillOgr.llll' \\(.'rC Su.l!IL';.ttL'I"L'd rrom \ ic\\, L'lthlr l)ll thl bllttulll of the 'lh 1rt\ l;.ll l 01" thl'
uir \c't .\:- thl? began w d1'.1ppcar and men n..1 remmc thcrr )Jcl-.cr.;. 111 publiC. Lhis
In de qe cue bcg.m w acqwrc it' P\\' ll cadu:r.
l )j..,crt:riL"m i.-. to gp(Jd ra!'itC.
or con,!JicwJu.,h nlncLd initiJI.-. an: indr.;crcet.
r J r
Di pl.t} mg one\ m 'lll'gram n collar or cutrclearl)
dccbre' the lack uf t:1ire. in
nll'ht martcr: ... t>f mak dl-coration. Icy,," u . .,ualh morL'.
J
I or th<. to create a rouch
...
of cla' . 'n lc shl'uld bt simple and
'- I
m.!l l.trgor tlr:111
1
inch high. [oq
shmlld be itunte\.1 +inches to the kJr t)f rhe
hin pl.Kh:t'" ccnrut: I (tilL' h1.1s .1 pockcr. ini
rial'i are u ua11} ccmcrcd on it or P{'!'iriLmL'd in rhe
middle of It upper \\ elt. cr initialing is
Jonc D) hand. \\ ith rht: puncru
:ned b} tm) periods. Bccau<ie llf the marking\
dimmutJ\C scale. it' frequc.ntl} in ciLhlr
a darker hJde or a different cuklr fn 1111 the .-.hin
ing If the fabric j, lilllC\. the mono .. "'mtn li)'>U:llh
J C't I
t'cfJOc 011l' of j l" O)lllp011Cllt . ._ l)J11(' 111eTI
hme cl t:ntrtlc? (Oior . uch .b L'old or purFJ!t: which
0
c.;ene" to ddincate their
1} ronc 1\J\\ monogram j, .,o !llllllltC
( ugge't111g 11 s origin) a.;.; tn beconte a
point of It-; appcanmcc rellcCls t:hc [ng
.
h hand \rncriGm pre'-irlcction for the con
picuou!' pocket pl:lccmcm . 1bout 9 inches do'' n
from the neck point. thl rurupcnn
mans escutcheon penchant fur disci

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I..} I
TH f. D k E.S'
SHIRT

nH ,\L., :-.:
-- ----
plincd Uroppcd JU"l bdo'' rht: d1rt:n line t,f ,i,.ion the munogrmn' ln\h'Lllu
mdr nppt\1 r rough I} 14 inche-. from point or -l lll ) .tbm c t ht nou l r'
(If the two .tddrcsst'" rhi IClcalt.' '" def1nitch tht.' more 1f not\ luc

\\ hen the Com int.'nt.:JI '' lu:- mgle brea"teJ j.J.ckcr unbuttonc:d. a \\ ai'l llh:l dlll1
C(llllllJl:"tlCl'' bcnnen rlw coar\ open fronts and lht.' nt.'d..Lit:\ Tht: nl'cktlt: unf&?tlL"rld
in rh} t h m "it h the n1.1n \. g.ti l. t:lll .tcro:-:' till ,birr' from permitting 11Pdung mor:L' lhJn 4bUl1Jl\Oil
oi monogr.mt tn peak through. tthmu supc:rfluou!\ distrJCllon ... . rhe .. c lJh
on .t s' rllbnli'lll their tm 11

Tlw

kmg
<h:kno" IL"dgcd ih hercLliraq ttl. cC('l.'ll
t'\ rr ... d \\ it.h ent)ugh
.
of these '.1ll't -trained bd..; m L)bsen e such
form 1-ir,th:md. ( ')uarrcring initials on
. -.....:. ...
the ,Jtirr\ t1UtL'r j, cu,tom
pL'l-uli.tr ro slh)\\ biz l') or nnorher nfTecm
Lion of rhe pn\ ik:g\.:J \\ irh mo much ume on
d1c1r band' . \\ hcrhcr such .. ma("b
l,f the titled rhan rhc Lht::uric.al. nnc-
t hmg i:-; lor h:1llmarking l'ncs ,hirt .deL'\ c
'-'
011 it" lore:1nn ccl't:.unh rcinfon:c-. it"
bcsp\'kt a nut likd)
O\'Crlt.lclktd b, tho,t: :'O inclined.
'

- -
I u tmd I
(n1m t t em r
..
DRE5.SI1\ G
Tllf.
impbc.1ble re ... i:-tance to dcmh b) 1-: .... hinn deaec maJ\? Jh m '"' Mnou d1.1llLngl:
tn dmc. \\ hile the has the for:t:mmt ba!'.tJun n-. r.tp
1
d
handing d1is l(.>rnk'r ndjunCl uf rn.t1t dcgancc ib pink lip in\ nmg numblr
of les' throat COil.'ll"aini ng lO appl} t:u the job ! t is incrca'111gh l 1 \tlt
mcntn of:tullh'nq \\ithmu a ned tie lu "umeofficcem&ronmenh thl! ban." nt.cted
c l1:1-. ben, me mho! l,f., llC\\ maJtagemL'111 le
l11 .111 ironi(' l\\ 1 he longtmw ptlllCLWr l:l'irpor:nt.> confonwq ma} no\\ bl:
ib uhimatc- undoing \\' hethcr hHC'-t Jip in t:henccbic\ \\ill pcnnancmh .ther n'
I.' to \V1dtuttt the tailurL'd lll11fonn to 111onopolt:r..e 1he bnd c:.1pe .. tlH!
rL"'k illl'Untempumrr lllL''ns v.ill certainf) change h'nppc.Jr.ann\\Jllmorc
dl:tlll'\\.'r'-lguif) rhc ... dl,ir\? 10 e1nbr.tcc .1 .mrbonratl\c.: imJg-t 1\.:rltJP"Ill
time. man 111:1) C('111C tu regard the 11cckLie as pn.,of uf hi' mdh idu::Ilil). that 'itt'- hrm
.1 p:1 rr fro 111 t h(' l.'fl m d.
CRA\IATOLOGY
-...,_, inct:' :1 ncckric :-h ...)lJid be n' the tlllch, ..:ilk lhl' fabnc of dmict:
Jdc;1lly. rl1l' qu:tlities o( :1 (jlll' silk rie prlkillce a SCU'i:Uion nlll unllltt dun u( ,jIll
The term that th\? indw .. tn ro a h1bric\ \\cigh1. and lt.cl '' i:&llled u ....
baud a
The mori( llr pan ern. rlw rhl: o(" tlw P"' dml
0"' of rite indiYidual Dcs1gn mor.il ... cr:l\arol<>i-1: began tt.l floun.;h in tlw fl)3<.)
L
pl\n .. 1 great dh rhc pauerned nt.>ckrie. kingdwu d}e \\0\l..'O' and pnm'
1 n

L,f the II r"t. the jacquard loom di fTc rent color rh read, direnh into t hl' f'Jbnc.
'' hile in '-L'Cond. p:.nrcrns :1rc dire(tl} onro ra'' <'I' d) ed
\\l O\l EN N ECl(\\lEt\R
u!'e
1
r alh.m s highl) LleruiiL'd hilc l'I'P\ tding an lllC\Hnp.uable nchnv .. , '-
1
f
hand. thl' ,,
0
, L'll til1 b the nc ultra of male plumage. The" mg pnK"<-....,,
:.1 eulur\ inn3tt" illl"llrporatmg ir into cmnplt!" ... uri:ltL' m.tl
1 J I j ,- II k Jk \Jtll')tt'll ""'en' rc'fL''C'nt a ... null
ing 1h: """ 'Hm t l 'll r 1 n 1n n t w c o :1 llCL til '' ' .. e l r
pt=rct:nt!lge of rhe tot-al nL"ckwear produ(cd t':lt:"h c:1 r. rhe}
hand rmforcd dC\rha and bcm.-]1-crafrcd foon\ car.
h<I\ c returned w t:.var .tlong n id1
""
llcre. a cia ,j, examplt:> of hon Engl:md came ro -.er rhe in imernarional
men '1 k fnr tht:> better ofrhc rwcnticth c<.'lltUr). ThL' i\lacck,:fidd ntxkrie. a group of
parrcm' m.1dc from 'mall '' of . .;quare .... and cirdc.:-. e.:'pcciall) fashion
able among \\Cil Briri"'h men in rhc carh 'mall \\Crc fir.,.t
I
m.1dc in I of gra\: black and white. ,1\'ing a marot.h.:'fr)r efFect acn."""'' rhc :-urtncc
&,.; .... ""' ... ,
tlfthe tiC The} \\ere the 'Ptcialf) uf dw texrile frnm lacde.,fidd.a :-;mall town in l.an
Gl hire. nonln\Qt
....,
\mung the '' orhfs _,anorjaJ literati. rhe ;\.lacdt. ,fidd lk'ckrle conri nuc.l' w en jo) i
long,[.mdin{! repur:ttion a:' the quinrcsscncc of upper d.N, ar'tL it i:- 1 he
onh gc11re of rradmonal neck\\ ear to rcmin ir, ori\.inal mctanhorical iruaaen. Referred to a
i

N CJ.:.n
- --
uc-" 111 tht' ... jJ\t'l"\ ib 'cncr.1bk ctrL't'l. d1c llbligawr)
lc.mg ttl' t"l,r dJ} attirt. meaning mlwr da) Liml' \' \llltrt
d lth\;-, w obnt it" (Onmam. thl' dn..:-s\ lhYktil.' 11, tlnc sen
r
bnJ.tdtnto include the ._)fl>rhcr lc,,
r rom ro) aln w rodt.o. here-=- a pictori.1l !Jistoin (tlflJltlSilt', bdt
1
tl'. uud 011 P''S.c) t..l (
thl \I.Kdc,fldd'. fi"C ro ... anorial 'tardom. blginning "ith rhc lbn'll "\.in,la!'l de l
\nrl1llll\ nrtxcl Blddll\ and I k'll) \\l1lld' 1\.nbcn \hmLgomcry l { .lll)Pl.'l'.
\\ lulc dtt'rl' .1rc :t lll} riad of", 'h'll neck ttl p.H l)nh a (ul h.n c t 1111l'
of corrcctJic .... s aalll J(leni\Jn i11 the l)I1L' tJr the mo.st
ft'rlLi\\llCd ... the "nitill-.fidd til'. )'Ut anmhl'r ((.lJlll'lhllrlun or rngland.;; kgcnd;1!'\' Bond '-' trccl
.. c \.. ,J
"n lc tn pcrm.111L'Ilt Ct...;hj,111 R1'111g tn prl111litll.'ll(Y bc,h.:ic tr" sth er con
m rhc \\O\en \\;1:-. al,o the to\\ n th.u prl>duccd \pnab
iadd on Lhc outskans of LundPn.
llw ""pHal,fldd Lrigin;III) dt-.wtgui:.hcd ll"L I( (rom the- \ LKclcs(rcld by irs
r ::md Llrgt.r rnuti[,. which \\l'rc .trrattgLd in "t.'tungs t'r t\Vl' . or
., 'L.- L c_.
tour ('Ptllbm,Hillll!\_ This more l} pc l)f silk tlC\tgn (l.111Sllllltl''\ the backb<.'lll' l}r
Hntam' htgh ciJ. \\ll\CJ1 ncck\\car 0:o made in rht' 'mall l.nndon rnwn.
\\ .. l\C'll ncd.tJc5 of tit.: L] ,, rt' tld\\ m:11lltt:Kwrcd all 1ncr the wn1ld
--- --
l
I
N .I:'C:k WF.t\R
THIS PAGE
Gr1ry Coopu drtssing up d 5port jtrckrt
\l'tl /J t1 J\ I ITt'Ckt it.
OPPOSITE
Ca'1' < ;,clmt-rosstd al,lltltm Jo\1'11 slurt
wit II ti dttllblt .suit a
nL'rkt it.
llcr..: I >eau \chc son rLh\: un the firm lund "' lu" i.ltl r1\. h d
tab lollar 111 dm\ npl.l\ hi, -.agging .. \d11Jt. the r1J .,
111
c,
0
f1
11
.,
nccktw pl.t) hi d1plom:urc urb:uun
E REG IMENTAL CANARD Bnthh Ln dl'rJ\,llt
11
rt ,
1
......
llll'Jll.tl stripL's h.I\c been contn1u lll'-1) u ... ed 111 tiC Jt.,ign '-IIKt: rhe
I '},2( Hd(xe rill' d.n .. ur lllll\ I h.lkl all fL'g.unem lnJ n
C( ,Jc)r ,._-h,mt. uf t heu ')\\ n. 'L'CJI Jt ll "i l\ pt al1n dlt: mt "'" ltrktt , (
rhi' c11Till!r:-.
I ngl ish rt.'gi Ill ore Lll'conned ''It h "itT I p :'1 nH hur
ctlm' g.JH' ri'L' h \\h,ll kncJ\\11 .Js the rcgmlcntal

l iL'. \d lith rl'.1 I UJ'e:. (t ,Jurt.d 011 thl' di.lgon.tl ,) .ltUfi.! Ul L p.u
Dtcm Achrsonuc:,lriu .. a
IJ'J'e '"ckt;t'.
ble from gn ,, ... h uni r\11'111 de ... ign. X ftl!l" n l CJ\Ihnn h
men "ore tlw tiC'-. of l bei r iormer . md (rt."quemh no orhct
( "\nc pnim nf long "ilJnJmg (()Jlh:.'lltl('IJl ben\ n'll bbdc, fr,,m
the uther ... ide of tiJt herring pond \\a" lhe culnlllst-. .tlltl!cd -.,trhH1 tl
\ inlnt inn o( ha\ ing 1 hLir :-;rripc. ... rllll COUilh'l' ll) of the king men roil(')\\ mg 1wh.lr1Lc I
PfL'(C'dCflt .111d tic_qhLfiC logit, til \ll'ipl':-. from ltf1,houldc-rdt.l\\1l i0\\3rd the nglrt \lJC
1 hi' dir\.Yti ... liiCPirKidcd" it h dll." male jad-\ct\ nallct"r our right (thu .. pr'-'\L m
the coat'" fronr fnnn \\itll :1 '"l1rJ from hn.ldt rdl)
'-' .... ...
()nc lllllldr ... d \ t'jfS t1\.Jl), when l),onk ... rlr ... t intmducn:l rhL LngH ... h lk' H'l
i ft '- 0
the in lll the tlJl' ) hnd theirs (lll i11thc opp\>,ire dll't.'Cllt'n ught h
l<m left). Fnglidlllll'll
l L' nruin Brit ish
b "- \.-
lll('Jlll\ \ C'T}
their prcciou:--
lll::ch or I \ mcric:ll1 II ere j,
I . R Tiiplcr\ pb) on '' m l? r the
''t\meri...-:lll ...
. \t (lllds \\llh the prt'\:Jil
1 ng. tastt;' l't 'r "hi IllS) . dn .. ''IL qri pt;d
Jll'd .. \\CUI' h.lLl bent l)ll1 n( r-:1\-lH. 1: ll"
t'Hlll'' rime I cr. a
ni ltal )\ tit: designtrs

up C\11l\L""I11Hlll:ll
.trmngcmcllh .llld cokw tllmhiu.l
11011" qripc.J Jll'd.\\c;tr j, in a rcn
:11 l.,;lJlCC I )....::-.igner r B:uher.1
.....
(ptigt" 1-JS) could h:l\ c dw,cn .lll}
t\ pt (lr nccktll' fc.11' thi-. nllrl1t, bw
l..
Famous Stripes ... in the. !Pa;'
umtJUi1lly smarl duipu am! a(htDI colM comMrr41t'"'! if
1hr Engltth srJuxsl1ir.s
1
a: lid ''O.m Bovs," rrrrwnlun
jorTIUPLF.ll.. Ami in "I'P
of fJIIUrns fur bme, grry tl1" lrrOr:m .tuitt. T/:11 Jl<ll rt:nl rni.ll-
thrJ mY lopsjor thai pjt. bt T&Jr&.EJt mAkr .rour
Wml f'OLD0 .Sll.X TlUOUQHOUT, .1-Im
onfCJ'lfli by maiJraa: C'C!kn of IIWU. EuJr kctlOU &U ... a.blc
JiRTRrPI]R & ]]
-
---- ---- ---
--
h.: tlptL'd ti)r a 'tnpc \umld be tl' fiud
.111} thmg a[i\ c or prcdinabk J.bnttt ll'
\\lud1 j.,. prob.tbl) \\h) bt: j; "'It' the pn1p..:r
dm.:crmn uflu ... uipc .... lugb lcti ro lm' right.
... ._
\norhcr rca.,on t'Or thl' 'tripe\ h.Ibitu.tl prr.:>cncr
under rht: bcncr .1rrmcd ch.in j..; diagom1l d\ n.lllliC" The
<- I
sman undcr .. tanJ, lim that angk!\
. '
b 'd' al o \\I.Jrk.' to .:-lim it. In ... triphl necktie\; (:l!'-1.',
parrcm m.tgic4tllr snftllL'"'
rn. m tht [JCe m .1 ... ham.1gl' much br it:\ ntccs
I cumpdling illu"lr:Hit'n "In
men l)r lofikr ... ocial plarr-.ut...; rend w lean wward the
'trtpc ir!' mEuuarmg '"agger Bd<n\: fdm :tct,)l'
... tripe tu hi..; C;\pan:-c ,)1-
biUt: \\hale cJch of ir..) fortY fi, e degrees
0 l
rhc !I.} mmctq (,f hL' double -brca,tcd r. Hl)l )k
t:ndmg \\ iK Bcnn.1 on the left. Rl)Jlald '-'lll'agc.s
"'- 0 L
thl' br,.lad repeat of hi' n.ccktic ... rripc ro harmonize with
ht" -.;port Jacket'.... pbid.
1
STRIPED NECKTIES CHISEL
I
AWAY BREADTH AND SOFTNESS 1
FROM THE FACE. J
1..------
- ----

1Hf 1\I!\N
-rl t E p LA 1 D E tif \ilk ur
\\lllJI. t hL' pl.1id nt"ckrie ha ... :1l \\ attmned r he traditional

i"t b, 'irtue o(it!' rkh "cutu,Ja heritage ill' plaid
\\\.'1"(' mndl L)r \\ rol. t)f tbl lllOll r\ :l"'I{)Cl:ldon "11 h
l.lrt.lll kilt.-. 1 lo\\ CHr. l he mu hemic J I ighland "t:rc
inro \'t'I'Sit)ll\ r\)J' 10\\11 \\CHI'
the pbid frum11thcr &tt.!doie mottl-., 1s i1 mul
lil.l)L't'cd dt..':'lign. "hich crcml.'\ 1hc illu ion of
\\'lwn m:11cd \\ irh :1 :-rripc nr ditTm\'nt :'!Calc
dwd ... the pbid\ \.kpdl or rilld jll'l'h.ltlccs :1 alld
ntt.\JlCl'd tin\?ss. I lc'TL:. a 111;111 kll\.1\\' ho\\ II Jlli:lkc n
.suil shin JflPL'ar plain. jlqwcr':- lugh
com lll'cktic abP :-;a\ rs his\)\\ n st r0ng ((llllplex-
inn (dnrk hair nnd lighL -:kin) frl'lll nppc:tring le s
SOLID NECK\YEAR :-tatcmcm might
"l'l'lll :-.omc" har t.lf an L1Xrnwmn. hllt t ht..: 111orc
a man\ in Llnrhe< the mnn.' "ol1d 11cckrie.' he's likcl} Lu
d\\ 11 like the lltxcdo' chic which depends llll only two
ors. the necktie h.:.'cotnL'!- 'Inu:1lly tndispl'nsabk i( llllC
rlw ::tsJ-ctthctlL'S:s the kir
Dnugi:Js and ( 1\gndli. 1. .. Per-
m:mL'lll F:1shiun."') l;enrgc I ra.siL'r. esquire':, l;t,hion pundit
bi.Kk
necktie. ::ts di,J Banw\ ' '\.t'\\ York\'" ner .
...
rrc\.{ mah boPk l\11 slwwing
un il1lllll' of cla .... sic grJv llanncl c'r r.111 en em
t ._ J \.
blcs by his grcn:tdme lour
i11 -hand pinned just askC\\ intn lw blue drL''' .... hirt . The
perenJJiall) suign.: cntcrwint;r 1\ubhr Sht)t'l !l
tin11 of and Stllrd black ''men .silk.:
' '
tllldl'!Ubtt'dh niiUHJmhcr thnt-t.' n( P0rtt.:r lrcr.sln' ttl. and

Ulingrun n'rnbincd.
- -
The ratinnalc a \\':lrdrwhc: rcpl('fl' "it h inTl:'fC!>tjng ... olrd nc..>d.me.tr 1.!' thL
tl'l'll prt..:rog:Jt ih' thl'" ai'ici0nadt' the p.HLern lln -pautrn :-rairGl'l'. rhc nt.>cktll:
oftt..:n becomes IJi, bcq rriend St,mctJtll' Jc,cribed dw 1\riu,h 3ppr:o.Kh w
'
lllfllf' ,1, that \\hicb the brgcq IIUJllbCr of \\ithotll dJ..,hlllg ) llf thn t'
men inclined tL' push rite p:utrrn cmell'pc. the 't)lrd tic ,3\ld a from ll\l;J h
ambi 1 iou" del{ il m.

,
\\ 0 Q L t
1
E C K \V EA R The- ll.tli.IIJ:- h:n l.' i mere' d "t' lc
k.1nn.t l Ln their de...;ign "irh ClllC lmnd
....---------------1
t
ht.:\ tn mundarc rlw rie \\(\tring world in a ot"

mtrll..,lH' prim... \\ In \\ l[h t hl. Jrlwr l\' prol.lth.c
CJhJUgh h1gh d.l'- tWCktics to kc0p frlllll drO\\ ill dH.ir (l\\ 11
C\.lOlllll.'J'(I.tlcftlm nun ., rhc (r'-'111
.. m aha be lTl:''-htLd '' ith till' li'h m.tk\ cur-
rent JpprlYI.ltlon of \h.: llncckwl.ar
I \lrtun.nch rbc. oubidc ''odd. L':Kh ol-lt:th \ Lltic"

e..nnt.tHl" pod ... et, of so(i.llly pr{'minl.'nt. q} lt ..... 1\'\) bu'ii lll'':-.llll'Jt
,, ho w be p.t. ... _,ion.trc .1bou1 app.tl\'1 L,r L:xccptinnal qual -
It\ .md undtrqmcd r:a..:tc. \\t.!rc ir nul this
(.gment in tht" h.11i.m men" ma rkl.'t. ma m 1 hHl I tal i:111 men
.. .
\Hntld not bl pri' to ,ud1 ra,rt and \\ carablc:-..
otto be confu,ed "irh rhe I? '' Olll countr)
llL'(kllL' of I ngh"h nntorict"'-. tlw; i:- ,1 tmalh animal.
"J I
I tmd n in lllt'l p wor:-tcd (,bhmcn. or blends of (,,,h
ntt:l'l.' aud ,,lk. clw. sm:tll ""inuou:- "rrif-, uf L.Ktik ddight

JtllHhcr ht}Cf of ridlltL''' intri th(' cJr 'port
I krl \HIt:nc the embodiment of ltaliJn brio. i\gndl1 '' ho like'i hcrnngbotle wPol

tie -.n much th.ll I H.: \\e.u..: it O\L'r c.1-..hmL'rc Lllllks perfectly kosher rn me.
I ong .111 .td\c,carc on thi:- !'ide <.,( thL' t\tl:mt ic lclr tlu' (t)Gl -" eathcr ned, t hl'
L
1.1 r flO\\ the wool tic\ tc..\Lural GKhct :1:- well as it$ change of...;ilkcn pace
DRl:SS l'i\',;
HH M -1
-- - -
l) I NTE D N
l' rm.t printed Clhrk' anuall) 'ihl)\\Cd up man\ throat t1l tht." form off 1m1Jl
"ilk muflkrs in rhe latl' cenruq II \Ul-..n't un11t th ... llJlrJ.., that thl'
fir,! gf'oJllCtric pnntt>d )Jl :1 pure> sill,. :\\ jJI bl.!gnu to 111:1ke the rllUlld'\ of the '--ultur<;\
l"rnm tberL'. tlw tr.111:,iti11n to almo.t automatK If\ mk
''hat limited Inn (c.nn;ll iH the st:unped method uf making p.m(:rnu .. i dmh
"ns 111 fcrinr rP tl) "em. ing i 11 U.l t "
Bc-c.lbl'-c 1r ts t't' thl" nnd em accPmmpJan.: decorn
rno11f, cf C\cry ,.ui ... t). pnm ar\! rhe ll( m!c.k
\h'ar P.} tht ltJ(,rJ:-.. rlw f'-'P('fl nf printl'd "iilb 11' tile \a t .\menG1n markt.:t a
\ eri tnbll.." in qu:mti n dn cr'tt} n( f.'lbric '' hJCh u1 turn prumpr.. d fi1r
thl"r 111 11li\Olt j, in rhc produft iou ptucr:-s.
In rhc tcduh;Jiog) rlh. prim de'-Jgrwr \\Hh a \11
rual bl.mk l"am .1 ... on'\ hich he ntdd 1\.'corcl and iu,tanr.:meousl} reproduL"c or nil
impul'c". i-n the name of \\l!nrablc an ur \11npJc thr lll't rt: Ulh
\\:l' Lh:lt ;li-ter p,,,o of mckues as comer
_,,lJ iun shHTl't''. rht pnnu;d Jh.'tktit und\!rmmcd
it!'df :h of mule \\ hde dc:bJ,
i 11g t !Jt.> taste of C'Jlttn.; cult lll'l.: f m
...
tl!l' mO!TlC'Ilt. :--hould ,1 man \\.am n"') .1
neLbic "ith rcl'-onablc of ue then'
I( Hl''C'' in. r he" m t'O de1-ign tie \H,uJJ gcul't aJh bl.'
t::' I '" '-
[he btt.
That . .tlwrt .1r, :1 of (igu
nn ih' mnti fc; and ut print ttt.: rh.u t r4m
tlw of fa.lmm Ltkc 1 h ''til cut
....
gra) tlmnll thc.:tr-.n lr
b, \ inue o( rbeir 1nl\11lrt...,l:.ctble d l.t,h!

C H.-\ R VET pRINTS \\ tth rht" ;tfHliL:ill m
t bt. 1 q ].1.'b Lmd t q b more Jnd moll rime
\ m ul'.H ion. dn.: sing l}(.,Y.unc .1 prml.1pal
Sl.'lli'Cl' in:'pimnnn. l11.:r \\ eah h' I ur\.1
p,:m .1 '1Jmmct) lol1long ric t"(IJl(t::lh"C! h\
rht' Em1ou-. P..ui.::i.m ,Iurr and cr.1' .u makt:r Chan N
l"hi' li\'IH .1nd bn"c:A ncc.knt fc.uurcd Jlll'rtl:. th.u
.
.... tl' c.1pmrcd lhL' holid.t\ mood ,,f n t!ll\lrtlll'
-- --------
\kan\\hile in the !arc tht: "hir'- 'llil began 111 g<llll <KLtnt.lni.'G i11
"" , r
J'Jim Hta'-h and around 'c\Cr.ll -, ncull':tl roncd "till "Oilk'
,trongcunrrast .md hke their ,m:ut tl)t'k w dw t:hancr tic
l1h Jm:b ro \\,ttt:r. \ltln'llgh till' 111an geucr.tllr <1\'('l"lcd bold Jh.'Ck\\L"ar.
'-' ... '
non [CI rht ru .:. Jed the PJ\l'lr or th '"''- \\ dl drc"'L'd 'tKicn lllL'I1 \\ hl'"l t'rd in:tril) held tkl:->L'I) hl
.. mall.md con,cn d[l\ in t hell Jh:Ck\\ r. I r:- ..:.-h K \\ 111 their ll n ru'>S\ m lllChal.m [
...
fo Jdt..!ht of rhctr m.1m .tdmtrt the "-:11:11'\l..'r:-; t:Kdn.ucd "it.h ;111
' r '- '-
kmd.., off'Jnt"\ 'uiL'. frl m ht1Uilli'r u .. 1rlh tP 'trine:-.. tll f1bJl!, '1/L' \ll' dt,tgn The l)rig-
r * '- ._
trJ.lll.luner pnnt' btc:tmcthe tlr:-ot and rhe !.1 .... 1 buld- ftgurcd ntxktit ll.l')l11
upper da:'l' \\ ith rhc t':\Ct'plilHt l,f [mi lio Pqcci'o.; l.1rge alJ tWer p1i111 tic' in rhc
ftJ)\.'' elected llcnne' :111d thl' ,>dd Lauren :md l.;arn..:.-k \ndcrs\lll ncckric
prmt (n\o oi" \mct'tl:i:-. l,( the p.lst). tilL' prc...'Pt'IJder.mcc nl" figured prim
ncdare' cmrld prubabl} be termed nJcc
RI1dh) pcrsoualir)' tllld Fnd 1\llm
hosr l17cjimwus Amos ii A ml}' ttmm.
N I ( K WT.-\
Up to thdr 11t'Ck in chan't'1S, tlzt:S(' kllc.'ll'
lww tc>l'JIIt'rlaiu millions rith wit mrd imdli{!nlcr
..
words that cmtlcl ctptly dt'.suibr thdr llt'Ckll'ctlr
--
TilE PAJ..,l1
lr7lt1on .md It' .L''oci:ujon '' trh t.l:-tc, p;u:-k) l'lliO}' .1 'F'L'ri:1J stalll'
111
the ,,orld of lll'chHJr. In hi:-.
"-'<.:''' ) ork (On,ul rant It lim \ loll0' t.lpi 111.'d 1 h.n t:t..'nain lll'lk
lll' h.11..1 rhar .. h' I cngtK' ca-..-hl'r: bcc.u 'L thL'' 'h.!llificlt t'-..1 breeding
l,"dUCHIILlll { )f J11 tht: k)ttd lk'Ckrie.'. he d<.:'l'l11l'1.1 r',IJ'k'\ tilt" lllll} pcrml''lblc
nne It \\,b the .. li.mlic .. ut rhc upptr llliddlc d l''l'" I'rcud thought'
d1ar J p.u lc} p.1ncrncd ric'} mb,,lized 'irilit\ -.ttlCl' it ... perm.
nw mmit- prm ... K1r nch l'r color
ntl.TilCt: mh.l1ormaJ ill\ :tJkl rhL't'l.:fur'L' (.l n rc.1l it!' full
onh through rhe pruned medium. Jintlll\ '-)tl.'W;-Jl't o(( hi-.
1111\:Jng pro\\ 6:- "tth a dre.:-:-. do" 11 L lhlmbk of qrjpld o.;hin. glen dwt:.k
'PPrt J:Kkct .m i (lHir ("L'c al'u \\O\L'I1
paJ,Ic\ page )
CLUB AND '"'P 0 R TS In rhe tnrmdu(tiPn l\1 his bnnk Tb, rhc cmi-
twnt 1 ngh-.h co,tume Ju,rorian }<111ll'' l.a\l'r pni mcd tllll that rill' carl tL''t
rt.'(\,rded ct of porting ro thl' I /mgari Crh:kd Club.
\\ htch \\.h around b) .1 gruup l)t") llllllg L 111\L'f'iltY
mJcnL" \\ho cnJ ;} ed both the ga111e nnd .llll:ILL'lll' I hq \'ro1.dd
JciH.feZ\Ilth ;a thl' Blenheim J h)rd on i'cmlt \trl.'c:t. rhL""fLaCtcr a
nl" (r1lur' '' .1' adoprtd that could nll:d \.m :1 lbg n nd llmrn ('' cr the
P
m 1JJ.._ Ft dunng their mmcht:" 1 ht"'' cho,c hi.Kk. a CliTUt \ I'L'd . md
\. # '-""'
g,)IJ. outofdarkm.:,s. thn1ugh rirc. imu light" In when
the\ (,line ro :1dopt a ric. it naturall) emb,,dietl rite' me >rs.
\nothcrcategon motii ... th<H bcg:111 \\'lth a
"'- . ... "'
m1l\.1tllm ''a' the allon:r spon tic. I ir.;t g<1jning (11. pubrit\ in d11..' I..'Jrh
"- j .,
1 9.2Ch. It \\as 1 ucd m ... m.1ll (If subwn pat tern' printed
m '' 1..10l chaiJ i I ach theme prtl\ illcd it''> liCHH Cl'" \\ i r h .111 c\:Cll:o.c h,
''('.If 111.111 f&gurcs that signified tHll..'\ .1s .1 pl.l} cr.
g( 1! fer. :mJ n 011
It took thl' cdcbr.lted r n. .. nch dl ig11 er lle111'i d't )ngn). ;l pas-
lliltatt hur'r lmcr hl put rhc rit:: h.Kk i11 thl: ..... ltltlk \\hen l1c
TOP
Jiwmr Stemm ;, ,, pm'slt'}' ul'rktit.
BOITOtv1:
fanll\LIS cqw,trian futl kn1tc i11 the 'Ti,day. - -
the d.u 11.: llcrmc-. rae has brand1cd our Lu tll her paltnl rcc-., ekphant' and b.1l
h J tc11lo'' ing around the \\uriJ C\l'n amollg nll'n "111-. ll<.'nnalh C''cl1c" ::\11\

)f tdlnufi.1blc .u11re In nmd1 the :,amc \\cl) that the llcnnc ... lie":. n.lrru\\ "ill tit f.1:-hion
anJ llhl't tlll' n"" ph) ''-luts. tlu" icon' "ctmtngl) comr.trinn im.1ge '' l'rb tl) ih .kh I <'r
th.: 1mc tmcnt (llmmunit} and other uil"\. its C1miliar J dc ... ign a1g(lt l1n' nt.11.k it dw
\HJrld nkl ho, 'dub nc.. (:--.cc: Jlso Pnncc ric page 12.R)
----
I
I
..
'1 l;
-u L i\fA r-.1
T l.l E ASCOT J h._, thl' mn"' ufnet"kuc It-, nJme dlrr\i. fr un
hdll nnnuallr in \pril -,mn 1-1 \hhough n adhere\ llll rt. do d hl dtt.
t.arl i L.'r 1) pes of ncrk\\ car th:m the r in h.md t hl' .hcot '\till bdong\ ro tht gc.:nn: 1 h . .t ltll m
dll' ru:H fro11t \Vurn 'pccilkall} '' 1rh d.J} tlte .l'ct'Jt '' found 111 ru:h
:.Ilks tJf .-.ubdttL'd Cell( 1rings in.:i il'lllalh the genrJeman n ho \\ p.:h, .. 111d11l!!'-' 111 i
,lijl.'\\clr) rhe opr)onunit) lLl wenr n pm t.>r n pc:1rl
a cots .1 rt:' \\urn ftw !i-1rmnl d.t) c ... pcci:dl} \\ edding. Jnd ro11. J'=
ngutur al hunting owing. rhl' Fhlinted cndt'd blade., .trc m a -.impk I nt:t \\lth tht t.:nJ\0
c.>H'r the t11 a on cl1e che l the \\boll -,t.t"urcd b, a cr.n n pm n
pearl. prder.1bl} J quorc f1om .1 19J 3 <..;a:tJtt dt Btm 1im. 'oOt."T} "' htgh .trhnl r oi l ,
JtHit. 1 ur a m.m to \\Car the. hcot proper!). along" ith the nobilit1 nfhi" m.mn<:r t1u: .uuhunq "i
his g.ti!. :md Lhe l)f mf', .. ), an deg:mt beanng much nJntr.tl pr..:.'il'lkl' .m.
l, much for rhL' joe being nblc tO muck 111 unc
r '" '"'
rll E Bo' v l -IE ThL bcm tie deri,,s fmm the ccnturie -old knl'''n .t ... ht.: 'h
1
d d
bolt or\\" \\ tn.lll) rime . lrnund the fle'lk and in front I \t.>ntualh rht.
stock,, ,1, tn a ha11J around rhe rwck '' ith tied up Ill rhe uf h JJ \t
d1c t.:nd (If rhe h cl!nrun. there'' ere La lca'il two dt!"tinct mtdd ... t,fb{l\\ nc' tilt

tarll} and t ltl:' hat \d ng The "arliLT t) ''a' dtaractenzed b\ brl.Md tl.tru:i ... h .. [X
----
end',, "h.ll! bo" riC>d up "ith ct :>m.tll knot Tlw
I manufacturer \\d,h \ '' irh orlwr
[
11
gl1 h firm ... called rheir tl11'-tk which
'-'
\\,1. a more accur.l.tl! dc ... cnprion of form
Luc-r on, rhe burrcrtl) w.IS 1110'-litled into a
"irh qu.tre end:- and rhe 'batwing .. \lrhough
rhe dTcct "a' rhc it '' .1' "ith llllKh
Jt:Ss The butterfly '' ing' to be in
,, idth' ro .1rcom mol.latL' \":lf}' iug (\)I! a r heigh t.s. wh i It: the
.,tr.1iglll C'lh._b or the ban' ing fir llll''t CdJbr '>ilL'\ J ll
\mei'JCa. dw .. 't} le came to be knO\\ n a .. " r he dub bu\\: AI rhlmgh
rhc:) can \\Ort1 intcrcharlgc;lbl}. tlh' thr'lk ends ,houklnol
2
4
inche_, or bLIcss d1::tn .2
1
4 inrhc' Ill'' idrh. while dw
bat\\ ma'_ t .. tb" c.m 1' 1 h1 2. inchL''
b
Bo" can be ''orn 011 both :1nd
Ja) or C\'ening. and are (Orren" irh '-tnglc-
or dl'ublc brc.1sred jackN'. t\s rhcr more. ,hJn(J\'IH
rhnn &.he ltmucr it not lltli.'Otnnum ro find
.::-
sumc form \\ai ... tcoar in :lrttndancc The bow til' tends lll
be adopted b) rhu .... c men "husr prnfcs ... itlll' rcquirL' w
lean O\er frcqul!ntly. such a' doctors .. mcl ''aitcrs.
In \meriLa. the lxm ric retKhcd ib ol" pt)pubr-
H) 111 rhc nud thinics. [Jucatcd bcm de lor till' n'llcgc
man "cnr omcrhing like rhi!>. a 'ulard bow fDr a L\\ ccd
""
Jacket. a plaid buttcrtl} fur his ')inglc-brc.btcd gabardine !-llit.
.md m:t} be J rcginw11ntl bat\\ ing '' ith j:1ckct <md
gr:t\ tlJnnel' Jn the l.are 1960s. lhc bo\\ ric ancd a' Lhe
feet fotl for mo't inuginath c and ourrngeou of cok)r
'-' ..
cumbi .md de,tgns
\<\'raring tile Bow Tic In the hnnds uf :111 1.!':\PI..'I'it.:tlC\.:d pcu.:ti
tlunl.'r. the bm\ s final .:bnpc can end up inilucm:i11g dw nutfrts
Le Corbrtsic:r qitlg IIi$ b,,w tic iu
aaonlcwcr ll'it!J IIi)>
O\t:raiJ im.1gt! rTJ(,rc chan its fabriL nut L - f
d1 t:r;Jct from .111d bccau:-.c t[ is usunll} th,: llh.l::.t prl'Hni- j
nent item of doth mg. i[ musr ah\ >' bc GJreli.tll} prcsen1 I krc' l he architeC't It' ( :urhu.,icr (at
rt
1
p) hir.. slip of Mlk to Ci.lnlorm "irh it:-. more t'rdcrcd '-'11\ irom. \sk(.''' c..:rwugh to rclll!tl
tt.s bcncf.tcrnr\ h:mdmork. the bo,., s suggc h .1 man in control PJJ\ ironment. of
hi, 0\\11 l}lc .\ltcrnari'elr (bdou:J. he 1._ c.-apmrcd m lt''i .tustl.'rt rdlc..'cted l>01h 111
hjc; fact.ll L'Xpn: '-tOn and b} hJ!'!lllL'rc C<l'-U:ll (L lbr a11d bl 'w !\:orieL in ra ... the
of rl \\ htch t1..1 mmimizc thl' from,
-- ----
----
16!
0
....., f'
a a

Tt-tE BOW 11E SHOULD F1NISH .VITHIN THE OUTER EDGES OF A MAU S YES AHO DE L r o.- 5 F t.
lll\\t':tr,lblm tir .... qJi"ltl) t\\ni .. -.qc idtrLL:I fJr,t ih \tdrh!\h uld,ht
C\te!ld ht:}L'nd the ourr .. t.>dgl' ,,f.l pcrlinn\ . md dl'ltnitt.h bqtHh:l rill: btt.tJt.h .. (h, ...
n)II.J r \:- \\ i rl1 \'rher r h'-' ,hj n \:'oil a r .;la;u ld Fr.unc.' 1 he rie" l.nnL 111 Jl'\\ 11-o \\it h
.... 'lllL' n .J],ir 'tT.1igln pt;>im lW st.'llll spre.Jd co!I:ll" '' 1!1 aaonunod,nr ht
.1\ 'iZI...' hu\\ tTL'.

I nsuriug rh!? bti\\ \width up\\ it hin rhl' L"nlhlr ... 'lllL.'r cJg'-' c l 1h lCtc t
wda). thanb to l11c graduated 'tl'l1l that 'Hpl'r cdeJ tht: ongan d t '\,Kl h '''
tiC llnn'l Ull) btl\\ tie\\ itlllHll II\ ing it dll 0 .b ro he- I[ -.n bt sh tn
ened "'nough ro "ith \l)ur t'" 11 fact.tl 1 h1" ml"'.m" rh.n 1f .I(tt; r \C\U h.t\l

aJju ... f,d it h1 nee!.. :.i/t'. ir:, bl'" ;.., 'IIIItclo ''Ide (a ,-\,lll11lun plt>blc.:m) chc.. k h '-c
that it L.111 be m.h.lc "lll:tllcr l<J fu C\)J'fL'Cih.

I I1L' o.) nd l"nJKtrn' tl1 t; 1\ l) ( th(' bo'' r he brm ru:- \\ 1'- tJila Jt,,nhL.J J' .1
. ..
tkiT GnnridClll tllllll"l'h \\ llh rc'pcct .. IbJJJt\' l hlf\..' I"' Jll\ pntn[ Ill
Lhl' brm lit: tll1lc ::> plan 1.,111 iltg II }Hii''t.lr Pl.Kt' a llUlhL'tnltk.dh -r rr'\j Ut.:U
bl)\\ lllldlr \Our chi11 .lu\.1 \OU .til I I\ tdu.1l1t\ llw h.md nl'J bn\.\"' 111\Jl'IJ\ lo ,p..., t d
0
.. ,, g.iH" )<'HI tlhH suhtle m .... dun ..1plmnb
le" men \\c,lr \\ilh mt>n! !\.mgfn1d th.m the fn:nch 1 J .lllt r
..
l'hilippe '-:c)jreL llerc hl' dub brm '' ith under ... t.n'-"<1 d4111 -h,nd 1:Kkct .Jfp . tt .. :t
'' m tCl1:lt. l)11br mini dot DO\\ -.pm of f..ml.ud .11 \.11'-''l. .md 'tU z tllr: idll dw ,bft.; t
tun cig.tr. lJnJI,c llt'llfl nr irs lll"'l SIICL'illft 'llh.' )l1ll .ln.: mun .. m.ch I'tl fmJ flll n \\lth rt.d per
.. .. ..
lllnl ..,qlc frt.. m thu:-;e \dw hnHIh \.d lung c.'nough rtl h.n c l'b \.1'\ ._,u Jf .lJld thc.u appr lpn::un.ln
f(H tiH .. i11 "')rd ... thl n\L'r ftfl\
- - -
Ph1l1ppe N lti t s!Jo" ~
hu Galltc gout
N f c /.: \\ I .A
DRI:: '' r N:tr
TH r i\1 :\ ';-..


T}'itlg the Bow T;c L'-'arning to knnr riK' b(m tic i" m-n tht: daunting m k )OU 1mght imagine tt
requires Ill> tm>rl' 'kill rhan tying' ot r 'hllC.!' . Onl' "m to i.:- to f1r5t rn nnw 1\.UlL' .tround hlUr
tr,..;J I Q ..
lhigh. SirJo,, 11 and our legs.\\ r:1p the bcm an,und) 0t1r thigh jusr abV\\:' dw knl.X' :\m\
yottr l') L'S tit: it J.<.. H1ll \\ 1.)uld roLl I" \.. ('llf l'.',) OU 1ind l hm . .!It h ugh 11
ll\:I} cctain nc.srltetic }'Oll haYl manipulatL'd the bl-,w t1Hl1 J re(o_f.nizablr knut
\Vi1 h n ...;nil ''TappLd .. tbnttl vn11r knee. rhr bl)W GHl BL)" be wncd 11mld It le-11
1, ,op in )'tJttr and the rtght lm'p in) 011r right. r\\O loop:-. 111 nppn ne din:t:
t 1 1 he knot:.'' hdt.' pulling rhL' two t,tb L'nrb rc.-.hnpt.:.s a.nd the loop
.. \ Crt'r t:mDJ iarihing y1ttr<cll \\ lth prl1CP!'-.. lhl\\ 1ry knouing it lmr neck bm
without shirt FL'r Ill)\ lccs. the :-;h 1 n collar c<,mpl icatc-. rhl' le.trning The big
here i 1 h:.H in ,rJer ro get e:tlh nf dtl! be"' tll ,.:omc \)Ur equaUy m "idth and ltngth l'JlL
blallc tllll'>t "t.lrl out Ct)ur L1r .-.o inches l,,ng('r dt:lll thl orhcr \\ "hic:h ,jde} ou cht\l'":t fd lllJU
llmg,r rca II} up tp} oLL
-
--- ------- - -----
------------ -
1-H E F 0 UR-I
1
- H . \ D term in lund" l(x L h\:. ipkuot nnw \Hll'll duuugh
om the \\oriJ came im.' 1cmilbc .u the end l'r Lhc nitwtl'l"tHh Ll'IHllf}. The cx:1,.:t dtri,,Hion
of the term 1 .. 'ull un,cLLil.:d time. it \\.b tlllltJgln t0 bL a rcferLTKc to rhc h)tJr-in
Club timrh.lcd 111 England in the nint:tC\:'nth cumuq b) young nten who in c:lJTi:1gc
r;J(lllgand then adopted t) pc ofknot ror their lit.'' l)r, itt.-Pllld haYe rl?fcrrcd lll the \\:1) l)Jll'
hdd the rem of a four hot c "-arringc tit.'\\" tour in hanLI knm qui\."kcr w l'Xccutc. nnd
ccm Jdcrcd more ma:\culinc tlwn the dccnrou.; blm tit..
\\I tit 1t' and .... rhc dL''1gn ckN? rtJ tilL ann( p.1int ing
hPWt'\Cr knotting it l'L'St'mhk-. :ll'tll(.sculpwn. .. manwr in \\'hiLh a ne is kncJthxl oflcr.., rhe
rncan:' ofimpt .. ing onc"'s indi\ idunl st.llllp 0 11 ir ( Lhi" !i l1l'ukl eV<
1
hl'
mro .morhrr mnnitcc:.mrinuufonc\ pc..'r'L'm,J :-t) lc men'' CIT intn1duccd [l1 rhc dr ... cipl i ti L' o(
ncckti: decorum b: thf'ir :it m.ljl>nl) Cl11Hilllrcs to rcgarJ this indoctrina
unn a ... ... aero 'tllKt. h.ne ncr rn i!'itcd this pruclJu1c in ;.1 crcariH' manner. l
dem.m designer Lunann Harbcr.1, one ,_,f Italy"' tllL)"l raqcm:1kcrs. -.nnw
rihmghr. on h1s wirh the necktie: "The tic iullow_.. culture. In the 1-i(rics. I wor('
abm ne In rhc,ixtie-.. I tried a In the
1 h.1d cl big knm that s:1id. 'Don't mc .... s \\ith me '\.c.m I find that "hat I
\\Jilt 1!- .1lc .. , fu,,cd l)\Cr knot'' id1 a ,l.,.ft plc:1ting. It I" '11nplc. It is dccbrarivc. Ir right.
I "ill I \\car 111) tit in the decade? \VIm t\$k me then_"
\!though 1\\0 the \Vindsc.lr and mdsnr sui! enjoy limited f()ur
111 h.tllcl n:main-. the prcK'JTcd ktwr lilr I:Ki::d L) wurld\ mosr ckgantl)
<lttlrcd men. The four-in hand\ principal adV:lllt':lgc tlwt it 1.., the .simpJc,r knnr to c:-:ccutc
Jnd it rlllnm:r (rnme rl(.:; into all :-;hirt colbrs \\ ithuut pushing its awar (rl)!ll the
bod\ like the \\idcr bt>died \\'iw.lsors. <..Jn a purcl) architectural basis. il:Hrers
more rnc-n' faces rhau \\.im:f,{.1f\ horiZltJlLal gcomctr}. \\ hich lonl' ttlldcr :1 L.lpered
dun 1 h\.: fnur in hands set help.; rhc prc-.cnrarjon
than rill unmctriatll} t.1tic and \Vithl,l)J" pre ... entaLinn.
It' h,bnd the half-\\'indsf'IJ', c.m :1lmost hl' i!"onl) whelp n thin prl)tlttCl' a
l.trgt}r knot llo\\t:>\er hould a fulkr !...not be ir's better Ln ll"l the Prince ,\lbl'rt \cr
tnn .t four in luupcd ;.1 St'Cllnd rime. I hi.., nqkl'' it p.lrti(\d,lrl)
to .. hurt it results i11 :1n ;thbrL'' tic ILngth "ith
'L
thcu 0\t.Iture. luoping rw Oh.:r the n:lrr,,\\ rnrc bt Lilkcn nut to pull the
knot roo nghtlr othCf\\1'-t' or tl.l.' Sl.'Cf'ltld lnop "dl be dillJclliL. Like the four ill lt.tnd
knot. lite Pnncc: \lbert\ ell\} llliJll"trkal Ct add-that IPllch so import:llll ill COilH.'ying
lonk or 11 mchabnc('_
the appropriate \\idth nf:-t tic the princip.1l criterion hn.!-
th rrl.mun l11p tt'\ thl' lapel llJ1Ce .tgaill, t:1shinn mu'l w rhc o( its
prat:utimh.:r-. \\',Jth-. bc..t\\CCn )
1
:t and -t-'
4
''ill gene-mil) longf'' \ Jli:Hl
\\llh "houldcr h:1 chest to drape a and ib nano\\er dinll'll
"-H n dtctate.., that the tJe foliO\\ su11 CCHnl'rc;cl}. a 111.111 who ha!'l brl):ld rt'quin dw
--
N I! c K \\' L .o\
-
-

l
tHE" TYING ,AIMS TO EXECUTE A TAUT KI'IOT WITH A DIMPLE UNDERNEATH.
__j
(,ltting the kn"n to tOld rhi:.- \\a} i:- important. i(i tightened properly. t\\0
:-illL"' uf crea..,\. \\ill deepen. blo:-,oming our Lhc knnr. tr rhar it
It j, nnportanr upon fir.:-t knouing a nc'' ric ro rq ro makc the knot dimple
pmpcrl} .1; the neck-tie' lininJ anJ .. ilk cn..:a..;cmenr (cmn a "mL'llH)ry" rh:.n" ill in rhc dim-
f le .... lnrm.nion the nexl time.. out. Thi." i:-; her rc..':bull wh} nwt\.' "t':lS\ Hlcd pr!l..:rit ioncrs of thi5
,tn h.:nd [O !1.1nd 'L'\\ n of wtnelt silk The \\ll\'L'll rc.xrurcd di-.
Cl,ur.:tgc undue ,}ippngc of the knot. nnd rlw handmade anide gn.:at.l'r
1 hth ten 1011 can bt- impo"cd on the knot:\\ ithout ruining rhc fabric
\\ &rh rhc parriaUr complcrcd knOl qp .. pcndcd rrom rh" .. neck. place both rhttmb.!i Jll'l
bdo\\ the knot under eirher ide oF top blaJc...: '' irh d1e lorct"ingcrs rt:sring. Jirc..:rl) above. Pull
do\\11 martl} )ou \\ ilJ find thar the tic\ top blade'' ill .,ran tn buckle: in the middle ju:-;[ belu\\
dt(' kn n fitrming .1 slight com ex cmit}. It "ill com inuc to
du on the upper blade j, pulled tiglu L;tnd) guided Lo
fln.1l de,umnion b} tl1c of rlw rhumb and forefinger pf
nne h.tnd (,t.., opposed to the Eu of the palm)" hilc the other
hand hold') tht.> bnrtom blade 111 place. the knot. arri' ...::-
appearmg more rda..xe"l and ueed i "g lc..;s fi n.1l
Jdju-.nncnt
If tht.> l) i.;o, not e\cnn.ed "ith :u1
llm .uJ producing .1 rnur knnr. tht> tie ''iII not h.l\ c the ncccs
an .1ruund its. klltH to arch out from the collnr. as if
pmsrd .n artl'lltnm it,\111 hang.lrlc n dead Ctl\h com
prmnic.mg the "t.tmre o( the \\ nh the tie
..
pn ltl Hkd up uuu Lollar. JunpiL:
\11\\ Jrd t:'{'lllP ,...,ttion .. 1 4iublrmin.tl.mrhl)rii}
- --
- - - -
)
A "TAUT KNOT LETS THE TIE
J\RCt-! OUT F'ROt-: ll-iE COLLAR WITH
MINIMAL F'E.RIOOIC Ao.JUSTMENT

1
I
I(,-
NlCKWLitR
DR. t>Sl N l
TH.Fti!AN
I
-
-
T il E N ECKER C II J E F .mch..'nt time .. a m:m has J\ ... fdt tht. lil t ""'T\ h.' \h. r
:ll'("lltlh.i hh 1lt!ck. the cxplo,ion fll.mmllru 'JlOrt't\h'.tr m dw JI.JlO" the 1 u h
nc("kcd !'lf'llrt shirt in,ptrcd n \';lriLq wappmntth( ned. I ifl);u JH'J'
ui:Jr r,l:;hion .It \\,liLTing holes, the !\Car(\\.l' and 'lliiJJ;; du">d} tdL"IlUfh;J \\Jth
high''} le J \ ... illtcrmuiumtlna,d .tcc.."cler.Jtl'd the .. h.1opnun ofltght\\t "PPfh\\l: r 1r
'''"'nt lnng the llt:\\ 1/.llltdtcozt begnn lltrnmg up around dw ned .. , of rrurtl t n1 J ,Jill
F'OI..DING THE NECKERChiEF
tOLOINO THE NECKERSCARF

, '
.. '
, .
. ,
' .
. ,

TYING THE NECI<ERSCARF WITH A LOOSE F'OURINt--.MIO !<NOT.
.----- .

\m\.'riCUT1'i from I he '\\.luth o( rrancc l() till' C.uibbt.':lll's
n ft,h
1\h.'l basiL n( :-pnn 1.1ki11g
.. ...
h.tpe 1 he mnrc common rhl' neckerchief. .1 -.plid Cl,jl,r
t.\r partt. n1cd 'qu.m! o( -.ilk. corwn. or nrlllr t \\
knomd m .1.:-cor ta:-l11on around lhe neck (tJppt
1
.'itc,
wp) \t lllle pOI Ill in the mid rhinics. l)l'hLr dun !(,r
\h'.tr I:t, C\ en I kll," \lOO hl.":td of .1 m .. 1ll '-t'l'lllL'U to

fc.1ture one 'crsi m (.)r anorher l ,f thcsL' c.1-.ual nc" k-.cu \c ... .
lake l'aq <;rum here. l1km, hL' h.t ... a stan in the
'
deb 1nnrr dcpnrnncm. bu[ drape a ncckcrdlicr in a t hm" -
our sq lc a mund:mc knit polo and wund neck
pullm l'l' and pre, to. chic.
The ccond :.carf 'n lc was the neckcrtic. "hich "as a

.. ,tk qu.trc nn.,und the n('ck "irh it:-; cnt.f.,Jpn,dy rkd in
a four 111 hnnd lc (oppasur. m./Jlc tmd bl,ttl1111). 0Lhcr 1 ha1 1 rhe
l'Jd uropc.m. ur c pcci:1ll} ... pnning loul.1rd
n l:Ot Jl \ ;1 r.Uit) hl fj 11d a man \\'Cari 11}.!. cl llt:ChTch ll.J
.
anpnorc. I or 1110::-1 men. f) ing 'omcthing rhc neck
r..mack.-. of the- rhe (cmininc. l)r bctth. 11w .. '' .t bit
biZ&liTC c:uKe most mtddle-m;rcd t\meric111s ut) wnruh-
r
ng RO) and <lll} number uf John \\l;l } Il e L)Pl:'
!'.\\ athc lm neck decor nC\ the\ r. klc herd on tlw bad s.
' I
v\ err the neckcr. Glrf ever ro ::- L.lg(' :1 iL)Il "nmL'-
...
back. thc ne\\ mode in c.lSual office mrirc "dl become
....
tt5logu:.ll "PL'>n"or. \\ nh 311 manner of rid(:."" de,ccnd i ng
.._
nn rht> modern \h'rkplace. a tll- alternate neck treat
mc1tt' uuglu pn..1\ 1dc n wdco111C rein:( from to\\ h:n promi ...
to be m ern rdatncl} blanJ bu cmering (\t.'l.
pngc
--
ABOVE
CnT)' Gra11t w'al'ittg a
BELOW
Animating the oprn nccklim
with a scaiftirdlikt aJour-inhcmd.
T
---
DR I. s .. , r\(,
iT u r M A :'II
1 ht! c' nnd p:Htt.rn of .1 lll.m lw,l' tht anonul s nw 1h t n r II
l\Hl t,xruml om:po ts g} n:itcmungat fl, rpntr.:rn fmnd lk rt1 th .. ,)
ht'lll.: t tc:\ upper :tJu:i It>" s?r /..\ th:' bt:glll to m.'t\hlrl \\ nh c:.tch pn tlt 1 t
tnkt: 111 tb, picture. I t.:\\ .1n1q capturt.d :\bnhatts 11'- llltl\ \\JtJ n u h
sl} <h Pete ruo .:.u It i" nu surpn'c th.u he knc\\ hu\ td l:tnpl the diiLlllu t
upt1111:1l cfiL'Ct lie's mpltl} t>d yuitl! .1 It\\ he.: but \\l: \\Ill iocu'i, n It d t. i nu1 r
'11it.111g lu-. .lllkl\:'
----
Jn stnp1 a nr Jre. dut1 tt1td hosr
armt Anra rdtat5 m lmr.ar ftJ'
11
-

Jn.,, suit
b, J "lurh' md llf nm} and" hire :Kn .. ''"l)ric!' .. \\.ld

t red carn.tnon \Oll CL'mlJho'l \our 0\\ ll arwr
J
noon \\t:dd111g ,\hJmugh s,llid mn1 dr'-''' lh
\Hmld be dw of choice ,r .1 vf
fonn.tlm "irhtlm .1 parrcrn bdcm the w.1ist w
thl t"O'tWlll'\ l"\\ L'lliah-L'', the b(lt tlllll h.1l r

is ll:ft m
lmpll'llh!IHlll .... uch .1 rchtri(li1Ship is lh.H
"itKb J d:nu1t mg rn,k. 'J(, bct!in. tld matrh
.... ... J
rrou-scr r:uhL:r th:m th'- .sh,)L: fnut\\'<.'ar
h'-l JCr") pcrcci' a unir ult .scpa
r.ue rhcm fiom rhc !'>n 1pping thl' C) t.: at
t!JL: lt:g bmtnm Ot: C ..,Ctlning ir all the
\\,1\ d(l\\11 to the llom: \\ irh :t nan suir and black

na'} "L>cb app1..'ar richer than black. \ \'i l h a
d.uk gra} Stilt and bro\\ n ear, ho ....c
\\ ould th\.' mnre lbh coku: \\11 ile apprnprin rc I( 1r
lornlai \\t:at' and pracdcall) oblig.twrr fpr those
s\\,ttltc.J he.1d to roc In rcgubtion hlnck. black
..
-.hould b'- .wuidcd .lt \Jther time'. noir" [fall\
the aukle imo :1 bl.tck hole.

'' hich n could bt:amif\ .

-
1
..J.
Pattcmt:d hose ltelp intc,grr1U llllcl the. top
fltld bottOcnt hall't's o{Ms t'tlstmb!t:.
--- --
THIS PAGE
Saclul Guitr)' in silk dress ho$e ~ d crocodile lace-ups.
OPPOSITE:
Tite slrcen C?.{Deau Acheson$ atrtl A l'erill I farriman's lrosc
connerr rhr:1r dim1er clothes to rltdr formal shors below.
\ 111.111' .tbo nctx1.' m be nunp.Hihk in \\ith it' t\\l) lll'ighbor:-.. the
up tJJrs rt\.>wcr and thm 11-'r.1ir' 'hoc: \' , gL'Tll'l':ll priTkiplc. tlu: mt rc rlh' t
flnt:t or llh)J"C .. rlw L_,,'-
ilk drt''' hn"tt'n. \utlt ir' inhercm 'himmct: Ct'lltilltiL'" tn bL' the .111klc: l'lllbd
It hment hoKL'Iin rhc Cl.)gno,(l.'rHi l'f.tt"tcr -.i:-.: Lhic r:tkc llllLC l"l( Lhl' \\llfll h' '-.Khat ;ui
m b ule,ardier,oftltL' ln .. nclt I I.'" (l"ltlll.'lllP'lran mend\ ll(dti,
-,hL-ernc ... l'I"tlpJ.k ... bm it dllL'' complcmcm rile ... uhtlc lwacr fnm ht:- (Tll(l,dtk ..;hl'L'". I ih. -
\\ i e ,.>b,cn c l ard111nl .1.-- piCtured here" ith t\\ u prL,mimlll "dl-drc:-."cd '1 uc,m\!11
ufdwird.l} I c,m \cht'!-l,.lll.md \hrrll J dtcir,ill ... - laccd l.tpcl!->.
J \\11 uou,t:r 'C:;lllh ,md culmin:uing \\ irh thctr 'ilh.:k.... .llh.1 :111 unbroken ,eL umlbllu
..
"'' snipe oflt\!ht in plnmarc.-. each ot" dw ("Hilrit "Hit th12 llL'\.l '\nricc hu\\ \If I brriman':-
lm"c t:'con: hecntiL".,m hi:- rrou,Lr dm\ 11 H hi:- pmcm lc:uht'r L'Yening .. ht)C'.
I ( O.SJ nrY
ll i\R.\IONI5
DRE G
r rJ E. .'Ill .A
I
-
As wifh lJJciJiuo \ 'i$(oOillii tw.i Frank rhtrk ;;illi'.
tltt' st,rk !t1 a bm1un
frc.mstr cmd sliLit', it tlrtW 5lrcliY .'CIJIIC' t!(rTit'rr pnlpmn'.i-
----- ---
The bulkier 1 h( mnCit, dw mwa Sh?p up -.ud .. \ ,,.ul
wn ho:,c.' would lnq '' ith .1 p.1ir of hc.n} tlmmd \.-k., .md .t t''"' L't..i "'P 11 Fl J rot
in bn11..:.arh thL dirc.'Ctl'lr I uchilin \ is-.-tliHI\ tbnnd trOlt"t:'r' .1rc \\ 1ttl ll -.e JU

"ide. chnn k.) ... t i ng .tg.H u ho'' 1 he :igc.nq of re"nm .. run join d1tl( rent!''''' h ns f
:m Likt'\\ rwt uul) dol>), 'ung I rank 'ii1:Jll'a\ :-p '1 n h '"" lu1h ht' 0JmllJ tl\ ll"i.:P.
cnar-.\:r run "i th r h.n of i nf(,nn:tl blnchc.:r hKe-up... but hi-. arg' lc-. \\ ang ll tht une
bent .1:-. his
--- - -
S QE_
soc s
ECK . EA
\' lllClltl 111cd prL\ IOUd\ the llll'll llll)l.., llthlll ;1((\..':-.sorit..::-> :l" (Uillf<ldt's in
th. struggk Jg.un ( ... Jfl(lrl.ll ntcdincnt) \\ IH n:.Is hosier} h:t" long rul(iikd il!' h)giL'Ilir 1"1..':-;potl
-.Jitllth ... l 1 gu.trda,In o!"thc .111klt: n hlnk ,,me tunc h(illT'C it oHdd dch'IPp intP ih "lC:tlnd;lr}
rmll11ll . .:rufappard -, 111.111 tll.tlw
n 11mg lu hl 1 igcnr \\ nh lu" fout'\\l .1 r \\ a th t h 1 s 'Ill 111 plclc"L.:. \\h) c.-,uld nt I Kis il' r} \ ':1 r
t: I r llh.l p.lttt rn' .alo; , prumntc..: h.nmom bt:l\\ ccn ditYcrclll senor' uf
1 uttn-- \\ hc.:11 n lk\\l.'3r mouf .1s dnt\ . tnl'cs .111d "pii,ll' ABOVE
(I I n: t b n 'W lppear Ill tinl gauge\\ 1lll drL"' lw .. itT\ 111Cil \\ere rur
tl r t l"ptn J t l t.lkL full td\:lntJgt:: lr rJu :lC\."t:\'-1.ln lllL't'C:l mg i:JJ
t nh t11 c.: L ll cmblc
Gt111' Ctlopcr dons
compltmflllaJ)'ItllSf ,wtf
{<lur i11

Bogg uSts hJs parr JM1ll"1 ro
d:realus hos ciMrucra.
-
----
rh the Jf lnnq ho't'
a(U1unu...J tl:n u{l percent oLt.ll men 'l'(k pur-
'-em (.J t J.' a princip.1l cb.:mKrcr. tht
, -=k.. be) ond the :-nnplc
of d l.llllh'l.IC \\lth the neck ric t' l 'll:ll
c' lbbor.m..u .tnd ro ,},
thl' t)thtr pb}
ll1c: pictun.> prnii lc rh i' r
cdc:bnn nnd rt leading .. rar ... J \ licr tit.:
Ut: tlw ho:-c\ 111\) r lmquem .St.lgC partJKT i-:
thlJlt: mhc:r th.m the 'hirt \:- dw 1.-.
treqm:ml\ olrd. the i5\ 6c:L 10
!'ohn-r 111 Cl'lorur parn.:m a-. ncxr n'n illu'
lrJt1 ms .. rr.ne
\\ Hh ho.,ien llC'\\ CllJ.l '\ Hl'' its Ill'\\
. ;:;,
tJndmg nrlwr btt pb}l'f' "lit
111 "mg., ro JDirl the 'hm' .. \ n odd
pt,rr J.Kkct CJil impr'tl\ c: :..om..: ol
mnt\' 1mpmb.1blc r ,uti lll."'S. I lt.:rc\
rclaxmg Ill .1 md:mgc \\OOit*llS, Iii."
h.md \\ O\ ell '\\Ctnl fl.'dmg com
fi..lrt.tblt pl.1) ing oppll..,ltP a t \'11 ecd j:1cket rrnlll
rhc Jml.'
fht: cnn. 1"))0$ -.oundcd .1
dc.nlt knell fi,r men\ ho icq.
lrr r the fbnnd mnn tried hi\ to

IL>nk lllvn mou uppre ... mg 3.11) IIKimation
tm,nrJ t:t"luun or md1' rdualrt\ Then the
I
pr.tCllt111 mir t f tilt \mcric:m m,lll's br.lill .
. md l'hq lHn.' plar du jm1r '"'as a choice
bcnH:cn bbck n.n) .md brfl\\ 11 strctdt sud.:s.
'l'tne I .1 t ( ll,1sr l'\'Cn inlli.ncd the
rn Jdt.r fJ..,hll)(l fl)r dspcnstng \\ ith "ocb
.Jit 1gcrhcr umt: -.om:hcrn Gunpu't'' <.'\ L'll
h td 1{'kh_.,.., fr.ttcrnn tl'"\. but a.;, cc,ol ... 1, it
' .1' lt > ge1 Jrt"' ' d up md bctrc } our ankle".
f '\\ gu .tcru.1ll <: 111 H:d '' ennng
...
\\ u,: JUil 'r ta."'d l
------
t8 J
H nsrrnY
f1 ,, n M o .N r L s
etmcemiug the waangof ,_ th sllottJ. Unl.--you can pia, basket
ti:.tl 1M _ts pOWer forward Keith an Hom cal{ or knee--high port btl!it u
unifor:mlf Hbwever. 'Yidt Wlonrd shons finWHng at differen! lu!lghts idlove me
their hottt>.al opu-nillgs r:eqwre mote mass just at the bue a thl! bod} for
proper Other tlwlloling dre ROd altogether the Ottl) St) mh *mati c ti an nnlck
50Ck with clther-a rib top that can be rolled o\ cr or a loose-fitting pair of hulk) half Mll:b "tth
the tops folded down. (ln auk.kts look plttt) tYfish under long uuusers prondiog the
trouser featur.e.s a ful1 and casual cut) Vvom here b) oel Co\\tard (oppMtt) and pictured tn dif
ft.,ent periodicals tro1n the the anklet t.s stiJJ the most chic wa) to tt!:ttn and
shorts. Unfortunatel): the sports "'as ant)ther in a long line of sn ho!.1e11 asualtu:s
flJH \ ,'i l t-:G
TJI r l\1A
r
RIGHT.
The Dttkt '1' Vimisor nncr missed
em opportumty to pnra.de his colors ..
or irr rlns Cr.ZSt, /Jis stripes. 1 Irre he shows
thtm t1fwtth pinwalr: cord trousers ami
iiJit! ~ I t is t)'picallr audacious llfndaw-
panc affairs dirt!ctmg tra.fl1c.
OPPOSITL
America'sJmntT ambassador ofmetf's
fashion. NeimrJtJ .Marws's own
mmswcar cxpen, Dernll Osborn
fl'eJJ i11c gr,mdwr ~ t l t c Taj Atalwl
cannot l!umb/t: this mans dedfcatiOt1 tO
pcrs .. mal aJormmmr A more spectacular
rxample '!flwrmouizing headwrm,
ltositt-y. ancl heart we lttli'c }'Vt 10 St'C
- ~ - ~ - - - - - ~ - ----------------- -- --

\. , llh II l /,1
--
OLE
OF COMFORT
I
J) R E \ 'I I\ ,;
TiH: !\ N
he shoe' \\Cil? nu.tre than . con tructed from leather or\\ ,od J ughh
sh.lpcd \\ ithoul de:-.ign.Hilm to the right or left foot. tile) \\e:re 'ieettred h1 or f.
1
'i
tcnjng th:u kept: them frllln ufT I cathcrpro\cd durable readil) nd m ph
.1bl..? than '' lJd. \\ 'l n n ., bee a me l:'IH:l(l.sl"d, il!.1thcr\ prom n \\ u'-
one Ll Jl 1e (C,, CO\ t..::ring:-. dm t .tJJnwl'd :11 r lOci rcul.te \\ h tie the fnm m.t\1111\1111 prouc
11011 rlw

1 hough the <::J rh mg" "crP l?xp,,scd to unl 110\\ n 10 all but d l: mo\t
u( moden1 n11m. durabilit} m tltOdlrn hoes j ... ,,m a I-.e, fentun.: .\ \Hl1 madl .and
prnpcrl} ltH;ketlnfrer pair ,,flem her siH'e..-. c.1n prnvidL" e\l'r.lf of llne n tee.: lop
dr:l\\ cr loot\\ e:1r ha, (tlw top pan of rhe shoe) made from n l nwrc th.m t:\h:ht.::
\h'cb \)ld These hide-. b.n t' :1 fine grain taking a high poli,h. The ,oft al,u made ot
leather. "Ill uld bt> '\velt\Jd" Lo the J'l.'St of the sht>e drnm ....tmctton d.th::s back t 'the ftfteemh
ccntltf} in Europe .1111J c)f .!'it:\\ ing a srrip of leather in the t..Jgc of the
anJ the turned-in eligc u( the upper. Thi. irocc's an dcg:uul) dur.tble '-hl c in ''hich
the l)lc c:.1n be remmcd :llld rt'pairl!d '' irh minimal dumagL" to the -.hot>'. uppt;r
The of the be!'it d10es 'c.:gl't:tble ran ned for .md l .. the1r
'-litche' hidden in n -"J.>L'Ciall) rut cllaJlllel <1r0u11d the 'ole. lnsoh:.s :111J sh mid al'>rJ he
oCic:nher tilt') per pi ration WirlhHU condp(ting he'at altcm mg tht
font ll ..' rht' 10 !11(Jid Ill tb .. 1t:1pc. \\dl -c.rafrcd are mnde ftum b}Cr>
lc:Hilt' r 11.1 ilcd together \\ i 1 h brass pillS. :l sand" ich i 11 crfcct 1 hat prO\ ide..; the grt.>:Ht.'"ll...ll!'hmn
ing suppllrl, and :-rrcugth Fill.lll). lhl ,!J,tpc of the fir.SL dns' 'hdtdd folio\\ the ron
it elf -srraigln till dw in,ide ;md cun ccl on the 0ut. ide." ith rhe in-.rcp pointing ttmnrJ
ra1her than the shoe's cl"ntcrlint. If the hht (the form on \\IHch t.ht: lh>t.' \\;ls
rm; rhc f'oor "ell. thcrt'" ill be little need t(1r dw ritual 111 that ' u'u
all) '' ith rhe e:-.:pcricnc:c
In hi;-; lif(.cime. a m:ln may wnlk r I).OOC'rnile.s .. ::-\1J\\\ ndt.r th:lt I cmur-dnJJ
\'im:i, all arti._t of il11p\1IT:l1Kl: :llh.f :t lll,lSI\.'1' of called dJl' a maSt'Crplt!L't! o(
t11gineering :-111d a work ol- art." hs inpt'.:sible to 'pend wu much J tlneh ct.lftcd
n [ling i r 0 ( 'hlK'' Unl ih m:ms 0\\'ll t \H) cuiTld \\ l)rk, l' ( .lrt rhe-,e llC'\\ .lrll Ctct:-. \\ lllunprm e
"ith age.
PREVIOUS PAGE:
Adolplzc Jo. feujou in front oflt isfootm:ar stab ft-.
Gien ltis rxpansc shoes, tl(ll tc1 mot troll
his collertiou ofrjJing boots, wlroe1er rlu rc:nn
clotluslwrsr'' must ltc1l't' had him it1 m{Hd.
_j
--------- --- --

STEPS IN TIME
hl louk pf 11Hxltn1 nwn, :-ht,c:-; h b lh\,1\.' .1
rdation,lJip W dh:' Cll[ u( rh\: .\l dw lllrll l,f dll' f\\l'IHit:rh
ccntun. ,IWL'' "nh 'h:trpl) hll':\ L"t11llpk
. ...
rnt:mcd rh'-"' narro''-bonum pcg._\.!'-'d li"IJU.scr. B)
[ftllbCI':' p:n cd l he \\'3} lor iJll"' tlX f 1t\.f ''H'l' \\ i th I[." l'l llllld.
bulbl>ll!" tt1t:
H: 1 '"I 19 IJL'\\'1) I ibcrarcd 't'l"\ icemen gm l' tlw oxl"urd 'lht'L'
.1 tremcnJou. botl"l. opting it' L"UI11ron after '\lOillping <Ki'O''-
[ urtlpe 111 ,ufi(xatlng cotllbjtt bu(1t'. \cCL 1rding tl' Equircs Euqdll}lt'
dwP{20thCt'llll11)'\fl'lls Ft1slriou. -The \\'dl man of the posl\\',11'

period LlL"'GJme a' comt<.1n (Otbcious rb ltc "a"
\\hen the fll"'pular "ttir dC'maltLkd 11h)\.krn
,mJ lllOI"L t.:'Oillllln-:tblt f0l1t" L'ar. th\. high -tup !'>hoc\\ L'nt l he or
(he ... ntT high tlrting ,hin
... "-
and it\ t:I,tidiou:- naiTP\\: plain bottom a., \()\ crcign
of.1ll silll('lucne'. \\'irh 'uch .shcnt h
111g tht: clllkiL' ,111)'! hing [h:tJ1 a I" I l(dliSl' ' [lll'd
n.tlh dim ''uuki Lon:--tillliL' .s!lrtorial
J'ltJin,bottom trousrrs anJ
slim-fitting bendwwdes.
Bct'\h'Cn rhc 1'\\P \\tlrld ...... 1 ridnl \\J\'l' ol a.s io,lL\\car
1\tcppcd h) the IDil:fn)nt -1-hc of tndn} ('l..t'='l\- ,lhK' ltlt)t..k:ls "ere llrsL indi,id
U3l cll':tl'Illcl"'l !J, unC' llf BriL1i11\ u\\ 11 custulll lmt as l:ngl[sh "l\ ik Ruw :1nis:.1rb
.
e i.1bli the bt'tlchrll:H k lor t;ult.m.?d nwn':o, during dtc ll).!l)s and 3d' Lt)tldnn\

lnd cobbk'r:" scr the hi':.!h-das." lh ll)2l), o.;hoL' and
I
.lgrL-eJ that the \\a\ to dl hoe-. \\as thruugh "st\ kagc rather .. Thi" lluol\'st-l'lll ncrioJ
... , t..: ....:.,. r
uf men\ td.-.hit'n produced rhc half brogue the we blucher. the pbln H>t'' mnnk fr,nL
rlw \\ mg tip bud .... kin. the I.Kc up dw L"nrTc:-plll t ... Ill k'. rhc "hi fl' bulk. tlw \\'t:t:ju n
shp on . l'r iiJr ... pori

<lllt.ll\l'lling \\C.ll'. t\ltlllntgh the l1t ter h;llrL)r the
CCilttlll COillTibmed U t'lllfiL''i [l) dw dns,jc i('ltHWC,ll' 111l.'ll.!' i11 ...
'
tral <llldltmtic.IIl) I.I"ihil1Jl:tblc male l( ot\\C,tr a uf l1ctl tl!ld Lk:nd L'lllk
In the fitll of l<J48.1Jquire the Ill'\\ head tel-rue "f;uiJ I onk" Thi'
Ct
1
1ltrlhxl bur rctrtil promotion t the cothlliL'I'IIlg . \ ml'J'ic.ul "ar hero nt.lll
rfi.: .. t the til'\\ \\urlJ PrdL:r b} \\l.':umg bold"-r )niom:d :111d ckllhl'' 111
nr"ler In kL:cp 111 !'I up in btHh --n1le :111ll design. I rnm thruug.h
the IJlter hnlr uf rhc tlw fit plelw ,,(tell '':1lkc"l .1n.1und in lt.mging.
n.uura1 --houldcr r..uir'i .llldltlrl'd b) gunboat izc brogue.-.'' ith hL'm d) dcL:tiled "ing
__j
ll)U
flRIS'\1"<
fiH AI-\"
\ \ etcran \ ltii'Opt tht'} lwgan 1.1t ing tWtli.: uf the halLll
1
'' lnht:
"n,lunmar It I hi-. ugln finmg ,jlhuw..:nr ulnlfJ.(,l.I.'d "rth tht: .. hlp .. dc ,.

k. un t'
\H!llllt" l)\c'l" rht. JW\t rhirn r1r)' \mL-"f"icm men h flu'tJtllll \ll
1
hrng .mel lunl'' car tD makt dh.: male b1Jd\ .md ((,t t 11 11 , nl rn lltr b u
ll.'.lllcr \\ 1th ll'- lo\\ er 'amp ptlUllrlr tm and ._IJppcrltl e pl.uh1nn tht l.gfu \ 1gl t lul
1
;
11
'hoc \\ilS the lugic1l (tllldu .. ton hJ tlw L'ra\ n.HTO\\ lmnl m \:( tunulth
11
J
12'ight ie . \\hen C.,H"rgi >. \nn.mi 1111n1 lu('cd t,,, fulll'r h.luch "'Lilts. .. l\h' dt: btgtll u
t:-ort rlnl.trgt>r fit tl1e ''dt cnn \ngl( \u L rh:.an dtt"' '-hoc
\\ hilr.:- fhc 'lxtJes Pc.tnld l{l'\olrrtion sp.mn("d .t plcthnltl ltl\ln c ptLI.lll f r
L ho'c o)ll('l.-mr" of pop "ulnrn.: ki r ch. ud IL
1
r 1 h.m ( ardin \-blum h1L: hf m uf lt)(>t-\ ,, htrh
'l't\cd .1 tlh_' lll'pirati,m (or (;,n X\ "p1lgnrn tue )c.u, .1ud d1l nt t
\h'rc a '' .1 relanJ nf malt "lllW llmH:' er \\ rth r he &m ning o( the He\\ Ct: mun nult
ll1t1l\\l!.11. ir:,cJftrcaJingorl t:1milr,lrh .. 'll':lUl. roiiO\\ingdo llllht: h .UH lc.:J'"<fdttN.: h.ll
ln\\cd nr-.,tom .. crl'.llcd rn I d\\,trdi.m Lngl.md more fine men ... 'h'l't' wd.t\ t:"b ... tcJlh
proportioned. hand la'\tl'l.l than at wne 'incc thl rrm.:lnmn ll'pplmg '1 tit.:
COLOR
hile black .. hf,rs h.th' ah' np been con .. de rigueur drv'} 'uumg:-.
dark bn''' n equal re(incnwnt. ifrh'l superior of thc1r lthl r. biJd. Jrt: "
,hn1.> "ill ah\.lp la(k the amiqucd brm\ n\ patina :md changing lu!!hltgln-.: lu\1 .1 .... ttl\ .trtl
de placed on a poli .. hcd mahc lg:tll} rahlcrtlp acquire' an r\ t: :lUfJ. ll)p <.pulm
bnJ\\ nlearlwr slwcs invc:-l .111 nh .111 rm4mgiblt
ln 936. the k:.ulwr .1m il]uing pnJCL'"' "a .. final I) refined hl rhe ('lHnt "hen. n 'PLU rt::d
acceptano; of rhc- bro\\ 11 'hlll' r'-'r drc'') \\Ur.ted \H'ar I krc j, the ednnr" IC:'JXHl'L h J
fmm 193(1 ,\p}'tlrd .\rts on thl! of'{ l)rdm.nmg ht'-'"n
I \\it h 1111\} .. uits:
D II.\ R :\ l R. E.; It was CtlSftJIJlal'}' rears ag(.) hl ll'ear 0111}' blLick shoes witlr &1tlnrk blur swt.
111 n:UI1t }'t'ars thrrc /tasl1ecn tl daidcd trmd ltHI'clrJ browns/roes, tl )f tl:i' /ig/ll (at1, brll tJr
dmk an rique brow11 slmd.:. Siuct' tlrcsc tire' aJUJl15( JS cwrk as a pair shoe.. their
aclaptiOtzJor uc:ur with dczrk blue suits blccWil. quite
At tlu prest'mtimt.', dark broll'll shoes an. co11sidc.red torratmrd satijuttOI)'.for
wear with a dt1rk blue suir. U!!ht mn slroes tlri' uot nmsMercd appropriate.

---- ---------
I C) I
f OOT
DI C:(H C M
PlJTTING 1.l)UR
BEST FOL'T FOR\\1;\RD
THE OXFORD HOE Thel)'Jord (rom the O);L)llian . . l h.,lrbllOt with ,,de
lrb th:n lln;r gamed popularity ar l)xfc,rd in 18l10. The ">tdc slit dcHloped
mto J sH3' beL rh.u C\enntalh m(wed .b .... bc!!:.lll ltJ rebd


... r ........ i:t '""
.md .111kl<! lngh bunt .
...
The plnm c1p l"{k' axfiJrd b ba"i..- -.hlk' -;n lc !l.)r Slll:llT. tH t 'rriLtl}
t'lxm.II W\\ n Dc:-igncd tl) nwl:!t the ll.>r .1 nlllrc ,n lis h. I ightcr wctgln shoe t h<111
rhe full brogue nxfllf\.1 rlti, oxford \\ .1-. l'llC of rhc c.1rl) :;t) ll!...' ro t:1kc rhc. pi<Ke o( btxHs.
I he 11.: c r.tp't\ punched hole. smncLimc!- br t\\l' natTl>W rm'" of srirch111g \\ nh a
n1und tJr hghrl} :-.quare plain roc or" i1h a 111\.'dallion dt:coratit)Jl. it j, the l)( hu'-t
nt:" \,,trdrub 1 hi-. tll\\ n .:-hoe\ t:>nll<lllCL'd b) its beveled \\aisr .. the CL'tltt::r pl>r-
tu.llll>f that J0111" rhc frorn: with a oralll igh[\h?ighr dwcs l)pposcd (t)
the '"1u..Irc \\,ll"t u ... cd fur more .... rout type:- :-uch .b the Illl'nk or '\.orwcgtan.
19 3
Foor
D C:GOIHJ.\1

nu: ;\I' N
---
--
., .... . *"-
, o . .. u
.. "
. ' ...


- -
THE \Af I N G- TIP B R 0 G U E Tlw 1'lxtord rrimmcd "ith perlorauon-t stitdl
ing . pinki1 1brs knnwn rlw brogue comes from I rei and and the h llrghbnds
ir haJ nu hcd and ''b made n( lhick. untanned deer hide'' irh the fl:rr mrnct 111e \hJrJ

'"brogue .. en t"iom rhc iC" brJg. which mcanr ttl &m a ... wa.-. dnnc in d1c
ing oflcadkr. 1odenl brogues 0n't borrowed much m1.rre Lhan the name from rhe ancient st)le
exccpr tor pum::hjng" rhm art:: known broguing!l. The imitation thar dt.,.-or:nt:
rodm 'bn >gtiL'S once" ere acmal hole-. or m:lde to let water L:kun out carh o. t

shoe....,, whkh werL' ot1en worn" hile lording a !'ffcam or cra-:-.:ing 111<1fS.hy l.md
The Lradi rional wing-tin dre...;s :-:hue i!' h1rmal dum the phun nr dcLLmut,j
r
(.lp-tqc: modd. lt.s broguing bulkier. lc_ .. , .apptaranct. .md it"
larger propnrtiJns alk1w lor :t nwrc match "nh icr lxrun.:d !abnc.; :.uch a ..
lln111lt'l.s. l.ht.:\"kl[.<\. or t\' " The wing tip i 11:lll1l' rn .. llll I r ... [I. II? l"ap ltkc tlnr spread
wing" al- pnil1rcd in rht.. cc:1ltc:r and hl\\ard the rear \\ilh hcmrh perJun:nt>d
idC' -..ca 111.:-.
-------


Tf r E BLUCHER \vhen general Cebhard Lcbcrccht 'on Bli.i.cher. nne o( N:tpoleon 's
more formrdnblc oppon:nL'. Llccidcd that troop\ hLnct -.,hoes than the low-cur
the\ \\Ore with gaiter'. :1 boot" ll h s1de pieces lapped oYer the fronr. They had a
inner edge and lacing aero'S the wnuue. \ Vhcthcr or not tl11, l(lotwcar gave his inlanrn men
... f.:t '- j
.m ad,amage j, debatable. But Bliichcr'.s wdl-shod force,... did help \Vdlington rr::tmplc the Frcnrh
at \ \aterloo
Success imitation. <llld after Blikhrr participalt'd in '-'apt'lt.:oll.; dc(car.
the c;;hoc beanng ht"' n.Ime was adnprcd U} annie' rhroughllut' Europe During the I8')Ch. the
blucher C\Ohed into a tnnd) sporting and hunting 'hoc, bm it \\'llSil't until the turn or l ccn-
tll') thar ir a .t IO\\ .)hoe ror toWil rrom t:ilrlicr shms h) dw
\\urd C.XlCJl'lJOJl of it\ OYer the \'amp. the blucher ortt!ll itas :1 wnguc lilt' in (lllC piece
\\ ith the forepat1
the ITIOdcrn blucher j, a llHidd for town . .SpOrtS. nJh.l .shlll'" or
height BcGmsc at t;traps lend a sltghd} hcm'ier :tppl:ar:mcc l han cln.;ed dtroat bee-up.
rhc blucher i a h:p ckm n in drc -.,i11ess from 1hr oxford. ir.:h higher in,.nk' tend ro invor
its from fitst.:ning. "hich permits more ghc. ewer rhc rlwn ''it h tlw
fitting baltj pc (shan for lhlmornl. the cnsrlt' in ;)codand) oxford.
---
___ j
19)
Fo<'>T
DliCORU.\1
D.Rt lNf;
l HI M .... l'i'
r -
-- --
THE DR rs s s Ll P- ON Back'' hrn :1 m:111\ choict ofdothl'' wa:. dictmrd rn of
..
fnrmal i l). ng a ,( i p nn s hoc'' i 1 h d res.:- t"kH he:-" ould h:l\ t' bu.n fru\\ upon .t'- n t:-tu\ p.t ..
Hut wilh current mt:n-. (ul'leJ b) comcnience :md lht lp nn "J
an equal footing \\'irh for r.ulortxi dothe'.
ThL: imroductil'll of the cu1. lraltan 111 rht: mid t1fttt: h.1 ...
"-' ._
tcncd tllLIace-ups from sn lc The l'l:llnng b, d1e American bu-.ine :-,man lihl"
, r l.. ..
n:nural -.lh)ulder .;uit' with hbck \\'eejun' in rhe p1r'agcd the gdt bm:kll'd l,ucn
loafer'!' infiiLrarion ()r \Vall 5rreer\: in the C\cntie' In the t.'ightt("' tlw '''-k
...
rc\caling lo\\ rl!nchcd :1 kind ur ubiqmt}
t\ (a.s:-.cllo:l of :111\ shal)e. llr color\\ U cnsuaf.,.IHw .lTl\.i r
. ' ..
11c' t?r i11 ten'-kd f\ 1r d0nning under r he ClJ (frd uf lhc dnrk: n:n} or gm} \\ l: r'"h.:d llln\
('\ l'!l" dip, on!' (:111 .St:.lnd h\ -IJdl' wid1 the nnic:tl in the :rtnkk pro
t <l t '
dtpanmt.tn. h} nrc us11a1l) appo111ted '' irh the tnllo" mg lan up l&l..e
\\L'It .sc,lcd brHTom." bcrrcr fo11t :-'-:ak and -:tamre. m-.pJr'-"ti \J111p
de and 1"1\ l.'rall dccor:n j, e under ..

. .. .. ..
ta
. . . ....
- ,. I
, =- . ..


,, . '
THE 5HOE j. Ilall. hn'lt makLr to \1CL111in.
muLh of ht' to dc-.igning W<l'- m pur \.tll and t.the oil lt1 dll.'
urging he imented a ."lttlc? with or clastic Elbrk 011 \.irhl'r 'ide. \\irh
"itrttch.lbk nf rubberized cloth 1hat a trim!) firred ankle. his feminine? bch)l
de crib db, Olh.' of the ()uccn\ ladiD i.l' "the comfon t)( Ill\ life." As he de, doped this llC\\
I
bmnch of lhc "t} lc spread to. \mcrk:t. bel'Oillillg known as the ''l:ongrC:\:' g.tircr .. 01'
.. Ho"ton b lOt.
ft,Lb) rhl' d.tstJc sided men\ gl'lh:!r.lll) coni"ined 111 the \\c1rld of thL'
l.1.t,wm ltoL aficiomtdo r\ I on grime chnmpion uf 1 hi' 1 r.lllit iom1ll) lw"pnkt. St) lc ,lr 1 h{'
r dean nf l nglio;;h t ;e<'rgc l :l(':rnrle} cd d 1 is model. hcG.Ili'C hc.? tell IU' u d
"ft. ... tgn produced a bttrer Fining -;lip-on. '"li'itumillg dte cxpo .... ed .side with "mall
lt'.ltlter panel' r one \\:1} tl iurrhcr relining it. I ur thm . ..: i11 the kno\\ ClltlUglt tu
':lmH; upon .1 gtl\,d p:ur. dtc .. on \Cr}' .sl) I ish tt"' the siHK'
.:unundnun nf comfort \CJ'll'
FooT
[;)f: C 0 R l ,\1
-------
From t"r or(einal prim ad
tf"Tia t1me monkfnmt slrnes shL'Il'll /zen;
madt' bJ' ufimrous Ltmtftm bookmaker,
are from to a bntwu
DB;tH i Nt>
THE AlAN
a ITl'Ct'Sed f"a!{slroc, (Uicl a pigt..kiu slror ...
TH 11 10 N K- 5TRA P S H 0 F. U11c uf fc\\ {'f app.1rd to t.:trn n.tmt. hon
tl}. d1t. mcll! k frun t lKtuall y pn trt' after :1 q pe of fi-,on\ cnr \\lun fi1r uut ttrh'" an
run Jl Lcgl'lh:l I I dm t I he sn k t'irigi !tin r' Ill 1 he lt.Jit.lfl \ lp, Ill
thl:' fi!"rt.'t'tll"h CCIHLIJY .\ I ... :-.o imJ:trc-.,cd h\ the.,tmJ)It(ll\
; t. '"- fl. l
r>f the tnt.mks sh('""" rhat he was \\'Hh :t pa1r lit:. wok rhcm b:t(k ll.' Lngl.md ''hl:!t'
tht: !;11 lc \\a> adl n1rt.d.
r
The modern modd i. :1 lm\ fitting strapped \\Hh .m upper l"vm
posed of rhn.'C t\ bro:h.l .tLnJ'' the [n_,lCJlc; du\mJ!h .1 5.llldlc hud-.lt: (lll
dw sh(ll:, our,idt.: The nwnk-,trap, broade-r than w-ed m mo"t Jon h 1e'
\\hen a d(lSl'r fir is dl'_,irahlc. .1 more l-om1on .. lble fit around dw .1nkiL" rhJn

l) pic:tl up .shoe.
I 1c, ntCL'' the tnon k \ 'ltpcrb1) propo11illlcd -..mttrtllC"' .md p.m 'du
a:; "ell as it' (urmalit). bt>t\\tX'n rh:u tll a slip un .UtJ J
lao.:' up .... hlk'. rs:.L'11li;_tll) pl:till ll)L', the tll(ll1k tlliJdd \.:tn 't..ltne bnlguing. IJ(lf11
bb(k c1lf tn bn,,, 11 rt'\llr!'cd c:1IC dlf' Jlll)tJk'!> fr'Om It to
In I h t:'t-l) n a d i' cr.!\e ran '-"'C (l f L rl"lll ..;e r ...
' 0
-

-
-
TH L. ...... ED r H ..... TE lr ... Jcncr.tlh c )n .. xdcJ rkn tlw L.. \ _ 'tghring ll( m.tlt' ("\tl\'11ll
ttc \\ 1thni m, methmg dun poli"iht."d kmhcr \)L'-urrcd "hui11g the 192-4 l ntcn1atinn.1l
r I Hn.ltchc .1t I l.mJ\ k:-h..l l\\ brook rn Club. -1 here. ,ega I (t?cL \J( the
'If ''Clt:I) \\.1 rrc.ncd t() the first ll.lllllcl 'Lilt ..111d brrmn bllck..,kin
h , t:n'(; mblc !he l\('l\c.."r6Jn h' [lc 'trtorial pn)dl\ 1ncs ''ere aln::ad\ legend on bu[h
\ \tl,mtK t:1 .... hton \' t:n.: agh.1'f ar hi, ..;upptLcd brc .. h .. h oC good rasrt' 111
p rt..'h .. 'r"e calf (.1 .. 'ul'dc "a' then termed) \\'tth -;un. th..'l les""C\
t\ Jc 'CO !It''- 11lc.J the nn..\ rt'<k . a ntal'k or grc.lt l' ffcm i nacY .. \ 1.111\ men Ill j.-
._ J
tllll quc'llll ned the ,fuJQ. 1:,,hion pedigrcL' "tdr..''-tcppmg rhcm oi rhcir rhaL o;nch
la(klu ... l:f ear ... J.diGllt' and l)ther" rhem .. brorhcl-crccpcrs
199
FooT
DrcoR..uM
i
HrounsueJe or bttchkiu shoes ,,m b, wow ,111 }'l'ar rorwJ
i
fu t:ulu f lUnd t ht; r\ , t
Gil( 'hoc hJO r.n.ht al ill t1
b.ro\\ n Jl "--nul \'at In "l
mnt 10 ll) tn cod I h.:.nJt ritll t .. on ti L
cnrrlct dntlte' tn \\L1I '' nh thun
I hmt:\CJ fit.,hlon ;uinh-r..., J i1 'pu.oJ
the ucdc ... u nmt'lilatd\ .1h It :ltlgh n
\\ nsn I tum! t a I.Ut>!
LI1Jt th lntt) t1u.lll) '-J\\ the

\\ htn rhL '\tttdl.! c;h,,l fa.;.h
aon fin,tl1} did lur H rrnhd m
C't.tll"ptCUOll plenttuJt p rf nHt'li
cnp we un ttl\\ 11 faq, ,r hu .. ntt ,
unmg mbhtr oled b]u, ht.:r>
rhi? countY) and ml h1!!h "'
C'} det Ill.' '-pt

B} llJP rhl bJ\)\\ n bu {.
ktn .il11.. t h.,1d !\0 inflltnth d f ngf1 h
n i ng t hJt Ol \\ l:.'IJ dn: "'t'ti
lkir t:on,idcred hi.-.. \' ardmbc nun
pi etc "idmur .. u ka .. t um: p.m l )n
oppo:-.n-e .. horc dll' 'L 'IIt.'n
"pon sml'll .n \ kad( ''' brd ,1 .tnd
Piping Rock Club!- on L<)ng j,land \\ere '\.) of the bill\\ ll l\\t.'c.!d J.ld Ct nd
gr:n tl:mnd- tron,cr cnmbi11atim that he \\ho .. bdcml;!ed .. itn.1n.1hh tlmslwJ nlf due;

e.n-.cmblc "it h .1 p.tlr l,f thrIll'\\ buck--kin
\ VhiiL dti!' timck,, '} ml:h.'>lvf .. Kratic Brittdt m,tc am tlung \\llh n
;lppear mon: st)'lish, rhc brown h.1ppen:-. to he suitnhle fur :til 'l:l"<\Jl'l
.sh.tded f<')r 1 ight L"nlored 'Pr111g doth i ng, n nd rich i 11 nt.H -.o r\?fnllmrnl lrw" Ill H. t \h: igln
\\Or't"ed:- llnnnd .. ( )1Kt.' .;mitn.n. matn hmr .1 tlJtt..th time h. thL
I t,..
,:; hi 11 \' Ll n f \-(,11\ c n t i llnal mn l c lll" c:t r
'
-- -
--
THE CROCODILE SHOE The ilrsr croc-udile kath0r
shoe men \\41S mrroducl.'d in he :spring o( L()tlrll''>! o(
one Df I ondon's knQwn boOl m;1ker'. It nll'r ''it h
in tJnt wdl-drc.:-:!'CJ '' hu adontcd
... '- r
tt for .md mfonnnl \\ear larn
.
I rhe hoe back hume tu in.Higuratc rhc E1ll
'-
fashion l.':lsPn
l ikc.- the bro'' n buck kin ho(\ Lf )codilt.: karhcr in a
dark hmtC} wnc .ltl(lrd_, \\ ltethLr in :1 lllunk
"lr .. tp mudd tell rl1e \\Cekcnd, pl.1in cap t)C ltH'lO\\ 11.
or tJ,..,cl lu::tler lcrr rlw hole. the
t::r1 KocHie .. tlw norm:1lly nwt 1 r, shl)d ..,,iplt t i.::lll.: .1
r:tn: opporllllllt) t\J Cll!''CL l1imsel( it1 S) bnriLIL ..,hccn.
,!OJ
FOOT'
D r: c I'll( lJ.\t
DRl"SSTNG I
Tflf M.A.-.:
---- --
T HE N 0 R \ V E G IAN Hy lllid t hirtie . \meric::tn!- h:1d adoptt:d t'\\ o lctrure
inspired ... huc.s. J -.l,p-01111loccasill \ll" \Vl''t'jllll nnll n lace -up mcxiel \\ith moccn in fr,,m '-.1JieJ tht
Nurwcgi:m. I lw its the i"orweuian fearurc'i .1 \crnc.ll h.md r.,lJti"h
r
do\\'n the (t:nrcr ofit!i \Viti! lcmlh' r upptt'" and thick sole . the ru!;_gt'lf :O....:onH
gia11 \\'as buil r (or dw ,d,l), the n1l st famou!' pttnre) or of cl1c '\:unHgi:m qrtaet "hnc I"
the 1-rL'lKh !'hvcmah:r J \\'c$LOtl . \Vhen the broadcr-.shonJder:cd dl1rhing ni the Lnc
II r ..... r clllghr hL)Id. \\ t' ... 'lon 's black scmi-cha,:-c lac.:c-up "a' one of tht? fe'' qua hi} hnr .. capable oi
bala 11ci ng rhc fttllcr-:\calcJ .
..
T H E S L P - 0 N 0 C C :\ S I N \\'he 11 were rh:u1 tOrthcommg on' t>gt:IJJ
"ould pass the timL' b) :-litchitlg tngcther nme of .. "gl.lll
10
-
"t'n: expurtl . .'d rorsah.: lO Great Brit.lin . wd dunng rhL' 1')30S \menC:lfi!' wunng london dJ'
((1\cr<:'d Osk' impmT-<1 Gl='ll:ll t'll1 with a fllmt
dw :md mn the Indian "h(1gaH tl11.:: nh II"' b1gho'"'
a ca ... Pr\.'vJ{lllSI}. thc- Indian moo::a ... m :lppcarL"d mo,lh a' soli_, .,fed L."":unp
11r a bc:1dcli bedroom slipper. ='on\ l'ginn dt.?signct-.. w.:rc rhe fir't rn cop\ the ":\,Jtl\ 1\menc.m,
idea oi itherting a plug l)l'llatlwr L(l con:r the the t1mt and then h.md ntd11ng tt hJ a
Cl)Jllblnation .sole :md uppL'r.
--
-
.203
f tJOT
D L\ ORU,\1
\\' uh rhc hdp of rhc.loc:1l indttstn. dlt' began producing lc1surc
"Iipper th.u turned up at ;man Continental .md sekcn:d Curopc.111 \ ,..,lli11g
brouglu them humt: and rc adapted the ungm,ll \ llll.'ncan lnd1an
nncnttOil I Ierc\ a man\\ ho rare!; srood on cercmon). the'' ell-heeled Jin11n' '-,tC\\an. luafing
a hour 111 J p.1ir of\\ ccjun'.
J n the r111d thiniei;, the G. I I Jh,s com-
p<1m rt.'giStcrcd the name -\\ eejun." "hich. nlc1ng
"ath at.'\ mtKGl in roe and diamc lJKI cutout pmtcrn.
6cc.unc one of the mo"t n.xognized models of this
popular ne\\ genre. rtl,o km1'' n penn) ... rs.
lnm.tll} \\urn n in ;md amund thc
homr thl' \\eejun lc on the } c,tr
round '' orkhlH-..c of many 1 Jh:n's r;t,ual :-.ito!..'
\\drdrl'llx- bolrr maker ... I :\I. \\{:-_'-H1ll and
John I obb produce rcnJmon" lh,'lt cnmt? cln.sc
h.l pL'ntlh.:' from ht:.1\ en .. po. tble
A fiTq
a
I
J
DRI ,_:. f Nu
HH ..
h:h lllUll} ufl:,llPOP,; hO\\L'\Cr, i1 j.,

hl're in rr' fimll . the m l'\


I
.mkle buot. l tnt he \\ t_,_,, !"rom lndin
.
b\ Lhc HriLish Lhcv dubbed i1 '\hukka." :1r1cr the
I I
pl:l) illf!, pcrilid in pulo. l )ftl'll unllul.d :111d fiucd "irh
a ur rubber .... ulc. thi' fidd c.111 ir\:'qth.:ntl)'
bl fonnd ens("t il1Ccd a p.1ir L,( llm11lt:'l' or
in either .slllol'lth tnn calfskin or a n'''e1 :-.h.1dc l}r
"uedc. l(irrcd out in 1} rolcan ('hapL':Hr.
land coat. and [ngli ... h rhi,
t:btditlh aitircd roiT the lllll' rll<l

1 ionnl
'-'

-
--
I
_J
L----
)f Jll"'bdtn
n.: k
thl ... rrinm11.:'d "irh :1 btt l,,- hoPe nHilillltL'' to
'
\\ in bn..1wn leathl'r g.rar ''r black ...
\\lth Jug '-Ole tTil: drm ll0" ll urbanite. tilt' (;lKCi I' ,UJI Clllt' 1..1l:th1..
tl.rr.L1bk in tlut of W\\ 11
]n 1<)66 rhe I Jf lt:llldcdh rc\ intcn.,t in (anh.ltt!-
... .
,,hu:h h.t. 'Pd\\lh.:-d more imir..1ril'th [h,m :mr other :'l') lc l\( mak H) carl)
ttl'' \\,til 'neet imeqmenl rook h"l appl,illling tht.'ir Cl'rporare ch.1Jk "ith Titrn
bull & \:-... L'r 'Pf""ll1 llcnne' 111d l;ucCI ..,Jip on'. \ L" IT
dl'l,tgn.; '\lit'\ iH? l he or high l:tshfl'll. I.'IUt llll"'l!'L' t h:it1 thin\ ) l:ltl'r. (
o( h.t' .;r} Je mi1t:agc [\., "P 1 rt'. Duuglns Fa1 Jr. i 11 rh i-; i(l)ll t ll ml -
inn hip

- )
FOOT
DECORuM
Dorcglc1s in Gucd lof!{trs.
J
DR r s., I SG
TH! MAN
I
I
--- --
Famed costume desig11er Adrian,
cosstted itt the classic white buck shoe.
THE \ VH ITE B UCk ".l1 oC it1t.>n\e.lr bluer qpafit?d po"t\\,lr tnnJ tl'''..trd
relaxed sryk than t\mt?rKall "hire bucks. Tlk'ir JpptarJUC<t lent thun thJI
I iH:d i Jl cha racrer $0 chan1(ll'ri'l it nr l he ("I 'Uill f} ':- nnmraJ ...1mulder fil,luon l mqud) \ml n
can in r heir undcr-.t .. tttJd Llw \\ hitl" buc..k,kin cl'.ford lan. llf' \\ll"h u' n . .:d n1hh r
soles r 1rsL 'IL't"\l'J ,)', tv dmht?' \H'fll 10 tht
r 9 Larer c..'ll rc.,ourccful comtmtter' acd rlmt t .:-t:Hnl; 'ucde' comporrt<d tl1lm
coualh "dl on !-illlli111Cr under lighn' l?tQht {!abardme l r l'f
"1 4 I ._- '- '
trnpictl \\L1r:-rccl SUir'
Hrotlk, li'Cd lf..) make tlw ,ine quLl non uf"himbut:k' 111 rng1.md 1 ht:\ \\ciT
thL perfect Cll111panion tL1 t h, 1 well-" orn kh.1l..i pnnt, ur madm, 1\c.: rmudn ... L tch
tin J\1-tt'i,h i:-; )l'{ ;1!1udwr c t'u of tlw compml) \ n1!>.h t l d.i\t:'r '-fIt
...
old-nu:1rd hernaoc. HcrL' '' l lt)lh 'Ot1d's !"tlm\:'d CChtume
b t' ._.
\dnJn mg tht c. lh
:-pnkt!n luxurr \\'0rll in bw.b
-----
--
- - ----------------------
John Lobb daim, ll.) han" designed the firo..t :-hoL
fur cracker .1round It":-. rhat the shoe\
rra-.ring dJrk counrcrs, l,Hsal strap. toe cap.
anJ tacings wcrl' initi.1lly dc,Igncd \\U\. bcGlu..,c the)
had to'' idi,t::md most '' during rhc ngon. 1.11 'Pl'HT.
In the j.lu age. the ,IJoc "a.:> ktw'' n "rhL' currc-
'ipondcnr " iL" rwo tOJh.::d rcm1r a.ssoci:ncd wi11
chnrncrers \\Ito acted a t"Orrc,:.;pondcm:-- in
.lt\\,lSoriginalh de:-igncd in brll\\'11 willo" c.1lf
J '-'
and \\ hJtc buck or reverse calf suede. \\ i L h black box calf
often . ub,nrutcd for the bra\\ n lear her. \11 essential
the tltirncs or holidar 'ports \\ ard robe. t t\\ t
toned lace up\ unusual contra r l)( tcxLurc col{w
tuall} bL'c.1me knl''' n in rht: .... "tht> spcn:ltur ,.
Iixla} the real (an be acquind only
ol the bespOkl! -,!Joemttkl'r c.)f. lllUtk'l'll
commerce. h.t,e replaced this
autht:nttt. ''hire "irh a nnd :-,hin} ")JiritcLit: lrat her,
effecu'd) dimnmring the d:tss from rhis summer cb ,jc_

Gmrgt Cersl!u-irr nud Jniug lkrlin 11'iuging it iu
14
t."Ofl't'5pt.lltdiugu spatcllors
... -
DRL"'SIXo
liH J\LHi
[
r 11 L I) RE SS SL IPP ER Its to pinptHlll the exan Wlll' or place \\hen .1 I }J\JU ;\rh n
l\ pe ltm 1.,; h'ntttr'Ld ouhtdL hi' IHHl1l' or d11h '''Jthcd in a pJtr ,f dtg nr 'hpptr
.'t!t.-h .tn l'\"f.l ... ton h;l\t ld du,t.:h on the ht.:d' .of the mndt:nl dmner Jn ... llt (.;
1
1,
pub]it' \.'XCUI'!o..!t)JI'
lnl dw m hlr nppard wagm.H cJ ll\ ro} or I ugh sout L) Jn..._, J, r mu1 m h r
.utght dw publir \ tde from lite CCIit ,,f a one uf a ktnd furbd,m tht urn.lmt.:nh:d
\I ben .;lapJ:.wr n\ ith tlw JH'ra1tc m(m Pan llf n:. l'ltth , tl:g.un .tppt:.ll \\it tts
Jlt!'ider d11C. 1.. }m a} ... , llt:('dl'd cuniiJt!nn in CHH' s O\\JJlJ.s1e abuut Ul1\\ mpathlit\ t p
n 1l H r1:s iu l p.1ir \ 1f 1 he..;e tlu i't 1 r.1 ..:m lid r h&? Jl prhs nf an} 111.1 n !'>
. \ dippt!r i-... a gl:'twric 1 ype n( "ihLlC 1 tul a pan icuhu :-.t\ IL' tndudmg :t \\ 1de \ :triLn nf
\\ hflh tttJ hel1l\\ the .\nldt.> auL on L,nd held h, tlw f till
'' idtnua :U1) 1:1S!L'11ing The pu111p .l lippe1 .. t:'\ rht: ( )J'ieutdl b.1huuchc \\iLh turnuJ up H1\:
To break .. n trcnn .Lhl old !:1-:luunc.J h li!IIL
'
l ... Iipper assoctation m.mu1"Jrrurlr.. the
pt. a :-.lip- on
I kre\ Cecil HcJit.'n :md ht'lt:t: t uaordm:urc
well maHng merll at tlw H.tll m the
II of I mnrc drca 19}.;. 'hung Hcmt'lll' c.: n rmblt '"
\\onh t!xantinalion. as iL murL' '\."UJt::-
rt lllllw. Lih;> nne of hb lcgCJubJ] photogr,tphk 'II
1 Ill' "ottld imbue .1 mentbi?r rhL bt.:. u
tllllntle "ith a l'"fgbmllllr lkJt.lll1 h. 'i
Llmh' Jlluch dw dung Jm, n due\:
llOJ'Illalh Ull!'datl"d \\ t'3r:Ihfe, of Ullitnpt:.::lrh,tblc Ll'{L 1
I
bcspt)kL suit. T anJ a parr of hl.trl dr ...
pump ... . -, ht tiuurc :-.ir rran ... ct.:ndeJ mnc plact
nnd , qgtw to bl'come I ilL' much of'' hat toudwJ.
pc:nnnnlntl)
LEFT
Crdl JkdtoH nwakinl! (iln 1't'tmou in opt'm pump!.

T 5/mt. unA nllt.
OPPOSITE;
Dul'id Ni1'm \l'ith tH'o got;geotL' dlid
motlt,__t:rammcd m hn'.



TI-lE POCKEl- 1 IA.
DKERCIIIEF
11 \ l.t} l \pparel \rt5. the men\ ( t:,hton btb1c dcdarl!d rht: hnndkt n:hH:f :.u1mJt::
l!t,hlfm chauge- In od word . ''hun dt-:og:mn: penuchc.aJI} retun1rd w fllrdi1tin i men t:t h
It 'Ill. !:10 lHd rlk pufTufp:Ull'rtlllllllans brt.a-.t pockt:t \ \\tth J l'lt"h tiL.:
l-t\'tld 1 ,,r c<1ll.tr b:u: the jn.:-k.:t f\ cht''ll hnnukerL.htef .tdd,.. .1 wnrh til= t: n.
I'<.;
n r t A N
I luPin\! the cnrh .1J11e \\L'fc cdnl-lidLred an L""l"'lll:t.tl antd liml'
;
t i1n. tl t he ..,j\:ICL'i1th iutellccnl.ll gmnt J r:t"-'inu:'; ro \\ ipt:: '1 u1 flll\t'
llll )(lur \HlS" bnl)l"i:'ll. I gr.tduall} brc.11m::: more ornate "tr\lllP,
.1:-i rokrtl-" t ,1- L"tmpte\ loH? ot Iter h eq n.: .. pecrabh..: m.1le .1 h.lndkt.rdlll t' and H1
rhi:-. it i" collsidcrl'd :1 ,,( gcnttliq and M
l11 cighrccndt (Ctllllr} l:11gbncl. the pPpular tts coucmnn.mt .trt ul "- '"
taining :1 hn1ugln men\ h.1uk.<: i1110 thl' d1:.1\\ing room. lhe muctt.:s.::mh tl1c ordt
llill') fanner in tilL I >eLp w;b mopping his bnm \\Hh ..1 ...-nnlm \\.'f 1m1 Hf tbt
origin:tl silk print llllJWrted fn,m lndt.1 I ht 1ra
litiuu tnr cuiPrL-d gr.tdualh
From tlte 1930s
right up to todar.
pockt:t handkcrcltic:Js
l't'ntuin symbols q[
sa r 1\J ria 1 gw t if if)'
l
loped '\t.)Uthwcsl aJqng \\ 1th t lw t:U\\ b.o\
rht .. Roaring 1\,entu"' 'a'' a ,i1.1rp n'c:
in handl cruhtd. ,,,.., the P1'11lCt' c I
mtH't.' SL' Ii "h drc''l?f harmon i:1cd h," h.mk .md
. '
lit but did nor march it' iabnc B\ dtl
r hi rt ic!\ \\ell men carnl d t\h '1f dtt.:''-'
app:trd uple ...
lmmcdmtc to .1 t'-
cmcia1. h.J hlnd ofr th.u
_, tll't'Zt' or ro map up -;prlled champ.tglH I '\ur
\\ orld 1. ll1fll"l'l"" \\ th

pocket, thdr lundku
thid:..; "trhin 1heir coar slce' e\; """ tlw
i.1d:l'l ,, id1 it!- bn.:!a't pockt t .. t ht
irnck d1t "nne f\ lr bkm IH "' \\.1 "' If( h
rue ked :m .:n ur thl. unfbpplll ft,;.ar trlnht.: r
ptKket tiTL' -.)nt: lor .... hm\ln "\\J..., ptrma
mm h e.J in lhl' J.Kkt."t' brt a'l plX h t

'.:-c 1he ad\cnt llf rhc rm.:n It ungt
.. uit in the btr ninetcl.nth t:t."tHun .11J rr.1d1
tionnl h raih.lfl'd C:\lfll' h.n c JlUI'l'.d .1n .tppn

--
\ p&tt i breast pocket mu to displai'
c: pockn
l
,n.uch antrkd pocket 11ot lor ciuarct tc' ur p.tir rcadi11g !!Ll''L"'. but Ll Lii .... nl,n H bit tlf
l:J ::.::') L,.. L"" f I
imt'h \\ uhom 'onw ttlnn 1..1f rigging. an pt lCkct
the nur lit in(ompktc
I 11 the bilk} Llll petiod r.( 111<1lc..: nne \\ nuld hL' h:lrd prc,,ed to find :1 or
unt.: nf the "bo}': without cl prupcrlr dn.:-:,cd (hc:-t pnckL'I. F1lr each ol- rhesc
dn.:. " the plKkcr hank .1ffordcd )C'l opponunir) l"\1 exprt.'\'- his ll\\11 indi,idtr>llit}
f ht.: pi..ll;.b_ t h:tnLlkt::rchicr iS part of IlliiHtiWL' uf maleS[} ic rh:H CCIII\ 1..') S llH ll't' th:111 )ll'l ll'a
tht rn.mn\.'r IJl \\ hi-h 11 i.s cd c.m be d1s1 it' ,:o;dcctiull.
l )n rlw it,Ucm mg page. cl1c I )uke ni \\ i nd!'or ':-; i me chic in d 11..' ca'l.' ;md n,nu
mint \\It h \\ hich hl "c. lrl' dorht' p11Ckct dccc.Jr i nd udcd -, h,Jugh the l ) ukc folded hi:-- tl} he
\\on them .lt ,,dd .mglts witlm1 tht breast pocket ()rhcr C1mcl1 :1dd\d 11
t\\ 1st ( Jf) t mnt Ill\ Jored lw;, 't' di-.crectl} th.H it !ilk' rnrnt:r sla IH!\ tU\\ .1 rd I:Kt>. l"olll ran t n
CWlom.ll) Jngk puintmgout rt)\\.trd the I red hknltt \\c..lr 111:1
putr tlmt .1llegcdl} inhm..:d. (Jar} L\1opcr Sf1(H'tcd his :tl" ir '' ltid1 hnb
nubhcd h.1ppll} \\ tth curled up :md cctsunll} .l'>ke\\ th.:d .. rit:".
\ I.Jic hahllimcnt i.._ n dml} 11111111.1C'\ lh:u publici} tr:msmit i pri' .\!('
\\ htlc pLrmancm f:t"htoll' like rhc shrphrJ'<> chL'ck necktie. d1c GJmd hair pol<' co:1r. ,,r hl.h:k
cnl(up.:rn pump-. arc .1 of thi ql, ... tk l.mgtt.lg ... \ bctl'\.'r kno\\n ...:11es -.o 1hc
\\ hn.: h.mdkr-rlltic{ fi."'dm mu't 111L'rl .1\ ntd dOJ111ing one. thm d1q "ill dL, It
'r both I mJgL:' \\here t:ht handl...trl"ht ... .f j, so dt,n it appc .. lr.. rc.1d} LU balloon
IIU.ll l lr pni l'd J, .1 m1Jlc napkm rl.'lll fl>rc ... r :n 111:111\ of the plllt'IH t;d
To the 1.: .. snplu"tiCJ.t\..'{1 man. thl pnckct 'tlll.tn.' 111.1} ..,lTill :111 crfete llnuri:-h. )t'I" a C.lsU.tll} (oldcd
1\t

CLOCKWISE
FROM TOP LEFT
Dt4hc Jus,
Cary Gra11t trrcgulmIy auglt!d llli.
f-red Astt1in pt![TJ-.lded his,
a11d Ga'l' Cooprr plopptd .
-----
\\ lll[t: ha11dker.chicf the :md
tn lend sui l .1 llll 'n.
c.'f>C'l't\ c loc.lk
mo'r arc paired "id1
,t.-.hd "hue. blue 01 "h1te gr0und pattc'J"Ilt.'\.{
h1n'. rhi' color aflord..., the ... irnpl" "hire
hJndken:hicf :1mplc opporrunif) ro pn'' idl all the
b.L,ic pnmp rhc tl r'-t nrdt.'r lll.
busint?"" j, tl' learn h,)\\ to :;pon lHlc l)l'
tiW'\:' \\ 111! L' llUI I lbl'
rhough [he lnll1ing of ;] hnnk
mtnJful L".m .. . like the n ing L'f a bow Lie. rlw lllll"t
. ....
impw ram dung ro remctnb.t.r t'> dun it:-; dcplHt -
mcm 'hould nppc.1r un mdied. d"f(..,nlc ... ,h con-
rnbutin!! to the aph-.mb. PaniLularlr
nf It' 'tar1 counterpoint w rhc dJrk ..;uir.
the \\hire linen qtr;lrc no.d.s ro be
"uh 1l" pornEs neither
'
c\an nor tlnnened if "ith n n.'lling iron.
L .1 ha1rcut,. rhc "-lJLLnrc.., <l i'L'
th:ll d\;l mll dr.m attcnrldn to rhcm .. ch cs.
l)llC \\3\ [I) r!Jj.; h.h:k vf \-l"lllll'l\;lJICt.' IS
. ..
tt, the h.mk i!1nh tOW<lrJ rhl:
"- I
houldcr Thi. po:"itioning noL onlr rcintorct:.., till.'
dsagon.IIIiJlc nf Ule j<h.:kcLT' bpcl bur :tcCt.'llltl:llt'"
the dtt: t\ \ ... hapl .md "houldcr.< brc.11..hh.
AlthDugh lo11g tHllL'\\ hm
clu .. \l]LL1J"C '"T\ .. h'lld pupularll) back in 1 he
19)U" \\hen C\crnl of ,\mt.'rici\ tdc.:\i.siun
tic" to cn:.a!-c rbcir' in .;uch a manner

' rnlman . 1 htJ'f11l'l. h:lhCI\1.1'-Iwr.
aJl,pted same sq le. d1c rrcnd !:tiled ro Ctldurc.
prob.tbl} bc.'Clrl'>t ns purpo..;eful c:omm-
\ .:ned the .111 under!) iug spnm.mci t )
r he best sii.C H. the pul'kCl h.1lldkPrchic(
. I n
b t 1l: I 6 to J ti inch quilre. and. like tlw
hand stirchl.'d edge t'l" n railoreLI jnckt:>t lapd.
iv rxpn"t.: d pntm :md ctlgt.!.-t nt:C\.1 to bl' rolled :md
"intchc..xl b} hanJ rd1llcrnem llerc nrc
11ft..\\ stu fi,ld rhc o:;olid linen
C-011Sp1cuous pockr:t dt'cor
detractsfrom tlu H"lwk
'------------------
Tht st[ft .. TV"Jold.
1
.L -
-- -..,

DR f\h:
TJf r Al.H\
---- --- ---
-----
\Vhilc dw white hath.ikcrchief ,,jfla)\\::l)s bl' mailable to f31J back upon lt1\ mmt Pll
10 the :-ulid coil) red hank. Altll\)Ugh the pocket handkerchief can rake its coordmate.c; fr,m
1
'-
eral within rlw tailored Cfllllpnsilion. the ltt .. \ cnl11r and pant:ru usuall; dctennme
it clwi(c. lkcau:-e hdp rhe 1bscner\ C}e td\\an.:l the mcrrh nwrdJ
u:ning. or worse!. :t rie and h:mdkerchief is not only a "ign of an un ure drc.:\str bm a)'"",
n 'ure \\:1\ to lead d ll.'' l'\' c.' acn'"' thr bod\ :md a\\ a\ from the face. 1 nllowmo thi' logtc .1 -. lhd
I I ,J I
cDiorcJ h:tndkcrchicf only be tn:Hed wiLh a paucrned Tl1:'Cktie. nnd it "hould nm
hl' {,(the s<1111C culor: thc grnunJ 1Jf the IIL'cktj e l)ll dv" oppo..,itl.! pag..:' an tdn lf
in((,rmcd to :111 Esquire r<. .. qttCI') . drc:1 19':16.
l\ I.Hing tics hnllks or li.."Xturcs ;llso helps keep them From apprarmg lU
hrackcr the chest. As a general rule or dllllllb, a I ie".s !-iilkcn lu'>ter calls ,J pod l't !'quare
like linl:'n or cutt'-''111. Ct)I1\er.sdy. a \\ll<'lr linen necktie \\ith a dulled surflce requm.:-. ahc
upbc.::u or a 1\ ((ltllnrd h:mk !\hltltld fit cmnfunnhl) into the pod .. u \\ithnut
L ___ J--
----
---
j
-----
------------------------------------------
L
\Vearing a matching handkcrchiif
and necktie is a sure sigt1 ofatl
wrsophisticared dresser. A solid pocket
hank should echo a color in the nl!cktie,
shin, or jacket.
- ------------------------------------------------------.
FOR I IAN DKERCII J r f'-
Gentlemen.
Kindly suggest colors and of handkerchiefs (dress) tCl
wear wirh combinadons of plain color white. blue and brown shuts \Vith
blue and white vertical stripe; with wide light brown stripe on whirc: and
with solid color brown suit; grey suit (dark): or with a spon combination
of unmarchcd coat and linen trousers.
Very tnrly yours,
Denton. L F. C.
Breast pocket hamlkcrchicfi may be 4 similar s!Jude to either tht tit wont. iii
color, or the colors cifits .figures or stripes. Altcrnatildy, it may be. of a srmilar shade h, the
sllirr wom, or its srrip!S or
If it 1.: possible to srcurc a IIaudkuchiif wllicll contains colors tlutt arc l,oth in
the shirt mJd tie, tlris fteqctently a smart combinatiotJ.
It {s undesirablt to match tlu colors txacrly. llS tllis looks stwlird.
I
L ____ J
,1-
- I
A CCESSORJ
, I I
- .
DR.fL.
nu M l.,.
l

--
'--::tggJ ng bulk1 ng n up Ht fl rP hu, ing
nnt: HlU might \\.mtt) Jl"i ulumt:
plwnp1111! 11 111 Hur
pocket
lu afFcG a nJtural bot lht
smoother ... u, "qunres rcqum.: h1t
in furlmg the
perlq. Jt attcnuon lmt \\ hen
khrcd up in 'Oilk 'r.: r"nm of dll' puff
fuldt '' i th or \\ l tlwut ars po11H -.hm\
in\!. the !'lhould
'-'
re-;r in d lL' brc .tM pltCkct m 1 :\It gin
angle \ ... "1tl1 luwn Lt. .1
dmgonal fo t.cr' .1 ft,.., (".tku
hned. jaunq '\\.Jill
ignnr lhrber.1 de h.: rl\
.
configur(!d h1 pnntt:d ftmlarJ tn
put I kn \\e '"c the mac,tm of nu\
t'ir"t i1 rccrangtdarly in the T\' m.mncr lll(king it mer nn\.-e more J1w. Jnangc
llh.' ll t Cl'l':lf t'-' till' cxtm \ nluml' .'hapL' ncedLd to re111:1111 upright "hiJe .IIJm, mg thl: pat
tt:rllL'd bl:.lJ'l.kt w propt:tlr It) tlw pocket\
,------------- - - -----------
I
I
L_
--

OPPOSITE TOP:
Contrast trxtun:s:
dry twecJ.fackct, wet silk hanky.
ABOVE
Luciano witlr frirnd and podttt ltanlJ.
folJeJ his way. (Set also pagt 145)
219
DRl :, ,:., IN l:
l /H i\1 r\N
And to conclude this pocket pontiflcation
ott a celebrator)' note, legendary social
critic Ltlcirts Beebe toasts cafi sodetys
mostj{m1ous parade grocmd, El Morocco,
b}1 sporting (ts sigruzwre leopa.rd motif.
-
-
BELTS AND BRACES
_, uspendt:r, ha,,lt>nge,irh.\.:d :m :tir uf-;uptriorit} over bdts like the 'bghr :.lrTngancc felt b)
cl man proud ro dednre him,df a hut ro admir ht: likes bu\\ ling. ThL'
t:1H'rt:-d rhcm mcrrhe ("nu.lcr bdt. '' hiLh tltt.:)" 41 hie inven rion: they I iked their p:lll-
takHlJlS Lighd} dra'' nand ultra-rrim. l-r;mcc is gt'Jh.:'ralh crtdired as rht birrhpb.ce tl rhe
nr nwdern :;u,p(ndt!r. originalk made t"rlllll line :-ilk ribbon in a mulrintde oC CLllors and patterns.
fhe 3111..-it.:Jlt l'i\aln bt. and belts g<.'t\'(' ri-.c to\ L'l"\ di!)t JI KL" periods Llr
u "upn"JltaC' WL'I'L' l'ill' rir'\L Wl'M:Jbh.:c; to be rc.ld} made in
ic.t. being f.,,(,ioncd and \ended to rile early (olnnt-a-. b, tr;l\cling pc.Jdl..:-rs. they tll1
longt.r m be n11 artifact for paundn uld lllt'll. su.;;pcndc:r'>. or .. braces" .1.., the English
called them r\?igncd ... uprcmc in the L'nircJ \r.ltl'' dunng the yc<Jr.s pnor to rhc first \\t,rld
\\:u J Jm,e,cr. :tccording m Dquirt5 Ct'lllllr}' J\Jcns "'The dnughbll)' o(
\\\\I ,,o,c J co.tr:-oc rarn with hi.' khaki uni!"orm. and when he rewrncd in 1919. he
"
dc.Yldcdl) bdr .. '\Jcvcnhdl'ss. bract:!' t"lmrinucd w domin.ltt .. mcn,wcar thmughmn
the t\\ cntic. '' ith thL' th.n l11gh rise. (ull cur tTl1llSL'f" with pleats dr:1pcd best when
held up
rht.ir ''"t'rwhdming acceptance. a gcnr rl'vc.tlcd h1.s only r1l his
\,tJct nnd tht: \\OITl.lfl ),p bnmght hnml'. [: \po-.ed bratT.S :were a 'OU_(CC or cmbatTJ'I'\J11l:Jlt fol'
l10111pan>: the) were st male undcn' car. a' cstigc l)f the \ tLtnrian
era J J,mc\<er ... 1' lighl'\\t.'jghr arrirc durin}!, tl1c da1111g Jau. ,\ue. \'Oung men bt.'\!.:lll
"- \.. \. b I '- '-1
rcmL\\Jng thctr \est' Jonning belt". According to E.squird clltycfopcdi,l. dudng summe-r
mumh. 111 the hue t\\Cnties. sales oCbdt" uutnurnbcred .:-uspendcr" four ro one.
Dunng the 193lb, the ,J( the .:-;uit wirh the inlllli.'ll(L' o( Sm ilc
Ro\\ fi>rmalit) rcntrncd "u"pender' ro finor. but the lime lwd cnme fL)r rhc ,,eJJ-wardt\)bcd
man toO\\ n .1 dct"tJ,,n ofbcJr, decade\ full :1nd loo,cr .. cut rrouscr<; cnt:tJUragcJ
Lllrcr-. tU cqtup them \\lth belt loop.s rhe popubrit) n(knicker.' and knlckt:rbi..'Ckcr also
nrmcd a bnou to rhc bch mduqn \11tl. n' a rcsuli o( tilL' interest in rc\l'I''-L' calf
r I L
fnonH.:ar br the Princt: of \Vnles, the \\Prlcl';; Ulh.li"plllt'd fashion c11ordinating anti
bclr'\ the \l1gue. \\ith dmmt'i" and sucdl made ro with thr' newly
"ucde spurt "hoe.
\\:u II dtc pn:)\.luct iun l )f bl)til and I 11 lt.t.l
1
, E.'qufrc
nugannc nl<.1ng ''irh 111;1nuf.1cturcr.;;. the !\old Look. an :tllL'Jllpt to
the \mericnn man to coordin:ltl! him:-cl( frnm hat tu in H lm!'k}'. conli\.knt 111:1n
ncr r hl luok fe:tturing large proportion strong color the bcginnillg nr the..
end of ( hcgcmnnr mer .\mcncan male ... l!'os aud .\111eric:J\ own into tht.
morac;s medi\xrcil) "0Llll l(lllo\\cd suit
2.11
.-\ ccrs . .,.cHo

---
Dllb -o-:-.c;
HH l\Lu:
-
1111 ring tl H? I LJ')lh. ld lu\\ t.d ''it h another pn.unotit'll rcrn
1
t d "\!r J In
c''l1!t.1S.I tn the former. more dH? \lr. T look \\&1 kJn.tnd
110\\ ror lllllWI .l:J..'lp:Jrd fLaLltring dmJ. and 113ITo,.J\\ dr'l:!'l\ t ,
suppl)rt 1lw11' ,1 i mmcr. pia in frum t I lwt undt,tiuglll hcd sl\ lc hd ped ro quicrh prupd
the \llJL'l'ltall man lllil) the gnt) lbnncl <r:t \s nwn rtArurned from the \\ar .tc"'''r unt:d tu the
il'c' uf u bdt. rut'k .1 rhat cxtt>ndl.'d lm tlurn \tar .. 111L h1p hdd
J
tmuser ll( tht> \.:olllincnral. L:Jnl.tb) Stree1. Ptl"ITC L.trdm <111d H1ut knn er:t rdt
gnted brao .. > tht' priv-:nl' hn'lion" <,(the ilt Ro\\ aficionado .111d l?lldJh-s
{lthe \VAsP .. p.lrti(ulnrly \irctt
The brot1ght the slu" blll rl:'tttrn u( tlleJJs rruu'-l?f!> frc'llll their hmh
I '
pt.'' it iu t 1 i ng dll d1 (' hip 10 t s:am:tu:lt')' Ll the lll an".., "ail'i r . \ of e\lnt" '-uns:pm:d ttJ
rcpb.:c rhc -d..:imigbr fit o( tilL' pust \\ith iongL'r n L' plc.n(_d frt.lllt
trou ... crs. In I lolly" ood mm il" ,\mcrir,lfl c;g,,fo, l,ir,rgin \rmmu JJllh.idu(:eJ
hi lt1l'"t'r. mnrc r<Hual L\' tlte IJshi,Jn pubJic m:1king it cc,ol lt>r men U..J lnok Jl1h:r
in dwir :1ppcnra1Ke. The \\'urh.i" idL succt>" ol Ralph Laun.n'\ rran!ipl.lmt.d \nglomant..I
al-ll hdptd ru cducnc men in of the h'ritit'' c,f l1!d \\orld ra.;rc
\mcri(a!l men's (:t:-hiun ha ... :-.kl\\h w rl'connt?Lr "ith "omc ,(its prt:\\Jf her
s .....
it.tg\!. DougLt" \\Oil nnl},car for J,j, o((;t";rdon <..;ckko. rlw rt:ptilt.mm,iJc
trader rnglisb WIL11 mher 'mile RO\\ 11\t:f\ in
Lhc llJ86 film \\i1/l &.,freer. P"olluwin,, l )l)tii..TI:J,' lead. a nl'\\ )f HH.:'tl hxamt? eu.unun .. d
C" t" '*
uf tit(' inhemm :-111<11Tlll'\:-i .llnng \\'lth cur( links. pl'lcket watches and ntl nmnnu ,lf
rn:1k nnl<lllll'llL
THE BRACE SUSPENDER l),GH \\ 'ildt lllKL' _,t:ued .... Ciorbcs ,Jmuld hang from 1 ht
,Jwuldcr. nor from rhc In rhts. ht (Ompldt'lrcorrccL \belL can nc,er m.ud1 the 'u"
pender in allowing rhc plcJ.tcd troll.sl'r w ful!"ill il\ J1tnnion 'C\.'1Jring the
rc:1r on either of back sc:1m while andwring the tmm dit'cctl) T\\Ll
-
I

--
-
m.
11
n ple.lt' 'll9-''-"'llders .'lllO\\ rhc nnrumlpull oCgra\ it) to ketp dtL' pant':- fnmt b:1cl... crca t
t.lut Jnd in The 'crric.1l luw.-. :1ppL'.1r nwn: defined and \\ htlt Lhc
rn.1u eN p hi tlL"ming on rhc '' a:i 'r uulme ... t lie 0\1:' r.11l ll>l>k '' i rh llh >re clcgan t p lOll'
t 1rigm311) Jik\. bdr ... \\ert 111 t:\..Kt ... i/.t'' :-oth.-lt .b )2., inch., \('on
rrnllul alltm l.'d dll su 'pendt:r \ hack and .1d j u:-tabk Crum len.rs to COITfXrl) po i
0
uk-d .. ro the'' l::lrer\: height. Tlk frLHH lc' L"i"' mtam tr) 1L,r 111 tlw hoflm,
b\ thl' ch ,r pn.aubtratKt' and r.1pcr of the- ".ti,tltn{' If -.cr rhc bl)ltl'ln nf the
cht-...r. double l.nt.:r of ribbon bu]k-' np tht tol'..,tl. "lulL dw gilded buckle!'" ind up di,r,Kt
w the "enrt'r's (;Ke lodm. .m. in ()lh.? '1/..L' w ulkr
"
men It'd' mg 1 under - :et.t i l) " i l h bucklts up a r, llll 11J t hcf r 11ccks. I km e\ cr. if .1
c.1n"r .Kn>mmodau. \l'U . 1 :...htrl" rcp.1ir -...ht..'F' ha Ihl' prnper machim.:q to I hem
worn ... lmuld h:nc l'''' re:1r br<lll' burrnns imm the
tWll"t.'r cetucr &md in 11-om L:\\O linLd up" ith of rite (the one'
dnse't to rl11: t-1\) Jlld another t\\ 0 pt1,iticmcd ju't fi,n, .1rd of thL' side 'L'JllL \\'hell !>ll'pcndcd
the rrou L'r .. : mmn pk.H lic ... 'nh "hik the fnlllt crLa,e r(rain:-. ir:- kni(clike line.
BUlh)ll!' l'[ ro fur {Ll the ... ide or dw li"Olht'rs lll.lill pleat not Olll) fat! ro andh)r it proper!} but
reduce the rcn,inn on the 'houldtr hich rhtn (mm t hl' !'hPuldl'r. TrLm,cr' ... huuld
.th\.1\. b \\l.lm Luger at rhe \\ai,t -...o thL, Clll :t('tltally bt: ,u,pcndl'tf" from the
ncpcnl"Hng on ra,tt:. bunon ma} be wom l'n the im;idt. ,,r llllt:-idc l.,r
thl" \\,lJ tbnnd In the carl} )C.ars, '' ht:n F'rmocol dkt;llcd brace' be cmKe.llcd. Lhc ,.e,t or
bunonc:-d jJcktt .tecompli .. hcd thut ha11dily. l'\:uurall). it n.,mhH't3bk: trl 'lrure
lhtm tu thl (iLlt. 1de ot" the wai,tband .. 1\\ .1} lTum r ht In rhi ... portrt.lit t1( t l:oL1pcr nn
the ( llltl\\ mg page ht-... are affi:\cd L:O the om side: n( '' b.1nd F)rnbabh bccltl::iC: he ''
..... .... .
"e-trmg a' c t llo\\ cr "hen men :'! ... l g"i ng \ c ... tlt.:'=- rhc swpt.nder but ron ... "ere mo\ ct.l
our of tght to rmade of Lht;" '',ai,rb.1nJ
"
"'cldle "ro <-m. bdr. hould ncH.r br "orn "ilh ... . ;Uld bdt lotlP' .... hould not
\\trh 'uspcndcr butwn. I though 'ome mtn likt. tll a bdt or
u. r \\ Jth ont.: pair of u:-petll..lcrcd pam \\ rth em pi) bdr loop ... l)lll' or rhl)'('
dudgt:' born tf c that t ll\\ both com em iun and go< d I ( .1rc
gomg to be \\Orn ideall} the pcmt \:;hould be 111;1dl' '' nh ancxtcn ion \\ni ... tb,md. ll) !'i11h>Oth
rhc tr JU! er npt.n front. alnng "i rh 'ume kind nf adj u "' .tblc stdl 1 I( r aJJiL ionnl \\ .1 j,t 1 \ilm
'"'h'U \H m '' tthout .. \\ hile must r l drc'' an m;H.ll' tube b\.'!m. (h1l''ll.l h.lp
['be: one of them_
Tht fml.'"it qu.1l1l) m<:a.ie of r.1) nn. rcp1.1Ci } 1.> wq L""'.l r , sdk l'l1t ,,, .
are rut m 1
1
1 mdt or 1
1
_ inch stnp' \n\ nantm er and the) "ill b111J .. lll} '' 1Jcr and the' "1ll
nnnher c \\ nh clip .1rc proh:1hl) for l:1nn "ork but lll\f under n sutt u(
l.lt th 1 ho't. of ncd:nc .... dk Glll be comfonnble but .trc m1rlwnric tlllr durable \m
I
pattern gr.tcmg J su.'ipcnder strap lll1uld be \\ O\ en th:111 .1s on h 1 he "O\ en
dl:-...1gn p, ... c.: rhc o,trt:ngth uf dmrJcter tn .:umc\ tht appunen.mcc".. lim:agL:
A (:CT."S0lt
----------
OPPOSITE
Stl5p(ndtrs tiSd co arruch w omsidc of rrottst:rs
ill l't'SHI't.'llriug
RIGHT.
P(.rJ:cr po.sitimred levers witlr guh:rrd su.spmdas.
"ith knitrt.d \\'l'rk well wirh lc>tmnl wear: they ::J.re ,oft0r. 111L)I"L' pi inbk .
Jnd It: ' bulk\ under n w.1brcoar or ( )ualiLY bnKcs :.lJ"L cu.stot11anh m.1dc \\ ith
........_ J r
end in an cfhln to 1111 derate price. IIO\\C\'l'r. rllgland's \ lbLn Thurston sri ll
turn.; our the Rt lis Royce of Lrou.;er espcriall) if} ou happcn ro lind tt' lund-finished
111 "hiLc cargur The "hire C\'C'ntunll) crl'am. it11p:1rting 'Jil ,1gcd patina. Lih
\\Drkmg leeH old-fashinnt:d white cargm j, onl' nf thn'L sanonal bt\lla con-
m.mng an cducntLx1 palate. the corren pusitjoning , _ _l d1i' bracc.s k'
BRACE }\ESTJJ ETICS Sine!.! -.hare the '\:111H.: \erLical pl:.1nc as Lhc tic. rhc:.sL l\\0
arc coordinated flr!'t .. b) the c,;!Jin am1 Th\? C'\pLril?nct'd drc:-,er
\\Iii uc;.e the color or pattern m (rnme r he compl}si t ion. ur 'l ripcd
rd more vt:n triltt:) rhan a patt\..nwd pair \s 1 he: m.ljllrit )' ol" rncn Gn or pJrtenh.:d Ill'lk\\ L':lr.
tht: !\t1ftl! Or tmple "tripcd ribbon Call pick up uncof the tic\ CtJII.li'S Wilh\llll L'Oil1pL'lillg witltlltt'
trc\ 1gn
Patterned braces cot"rdimttc bell r "irh he (lr stripl:d In
tht t.:ruil d1e\ c.m t:1d1er repeat one of rht: tic\ colors or look lo rhc trouser nr shirt !"or com-
pamon.o;;hrp llll\\C\er: smcc suspender arC' hidden under the \C"t or thcr elljtl}' 1
freedom to complement all or none (,f the tor:'lo!' nt-ce ..... ories. on the
prnLtttl Hh:r" per onai skill and ta'itt:
l
.-\ CC E5SORl E
DIU 'I.)

rl l E DRESS BELT -1 he d111iLe n(
bdt 'hould be dict;lll'd fln,t br the t1'lnr
'
b) tlw hue of the j:Kket trou')cr
\\llid mixmg ll.':llllLr color s.u..:h :ts a hn'\\ n bdt
..
0
/1
"11 It .1 bbck ,!Joe :wd 'i\{' l;cncr,lll). ,Jrc's
,JH.Iuld b(t>(,m equ;1l shrh..ll dwn
tilL :-.uit. \ &u-kl'r bdr impans a
J'lw 111\HV rill (ontra.;r hc.:lt a11d tl'flll'l..'r
tl1e lilt' \\ hc11 "ell the
l"l''''r pf d1\? drc'" bdt llw transirilln
till' '':1i't wit hnur inrerrupti11g llc.n\
nf tltC' C1l:H rnnblr.,.
l\ot h tilt' Jrc!>S bcJt\, L'"tcrilll' at1Ll und\: r
A BELT"s 5HOULO FiNIS!-t
BETWEEN THE TROUSER S FIRST
t.NO SECOND LOOP
,jl.k' should be con.strucred """ nne lled lc:ll ht: r iII :J " id I h \ af} j ng fi.om I I 4 ... lO I I llllL'he

\\ hen buckled, it-. end -;hould ('Jllmgh ll' ilni'h 1 hrough fir:'I belt luop \\ nh mt
l'llllllillg pa,tlhL' 'l'Cl>lld nuddl:..' .:-hould be o.;jmpJe ill in cit:hcr ,iJ\'ef tlf gold dcptndmg Oil
t lw C< 1lor l d. the ing it'\\ \ monogram 1f
dl'.'i shnuld bl' d and \our 0\\ n
,
I bell:- arc either b' thl..' 'imuoth
'
dulled .... u( fine grained such :1' pin c.li nr
(,aby ur (rll!ll the :-.ubrfe from the

<ltt" ... kin l)r a ur bub} CTOC\'dilr. I lt''"'-'Hr. here\ the
I )ukc using :1 gtldl?d D-ring huckk to drc'" do\\'11 hi'i
wr W:ll!"t into 'emi - ... pon bdt d1:1t .tCC<Wd"
mo1\ .. ' \\'ith hi' patterned u1'Ll11ble\. mform3lil) TJke nnh:'
,JC ho'' b\ heping tht..' nccktit:' mp horr. Ltnd,r
h:1 ... length to through the ll'p\ undl:r
kll1P .1 nd sccu rL rhc "hole arnmgL'IiK'IH nuo t lw
\\.li.,th<md. \, u-.tul. rhc l\..1 wrn riiL'\Jrda
tHll') inll" :1 mini -ponraillJre ic
The D u kc 11ppom ritl..l; his 11'11 isr as tml}' he mttld
(Set" also rl1r bMrom JcitiJ

"""'-"" mce \ Ktonnn .. 'I} lidt men lta\l. tt'rllk-\f tu ord all bur the Illl''-l di!-CI'cct .md u
3cce,snrte \\ nh the cx(;e.prion of he finger ring. 111.111' Jt ,,cln has 1:nhercd b} function
the lll\Hll'\ dip tic dip. Cl'lllar pin. kcr ch:Jill, ndrlud'' si111T scud, .md \\Tt\t\\,nch :1rc llliliraria11
tll't. dccor.nivc I l<mC'\L'f. .1 C.ll1 'till \\<.::<11' an armr L)( iL'\\dl'} \drill Hit
Hl'>:lllC'I thl: !unit' ofgol1d u.;rc .
.:"
In pre \\urld 1 d.n ... 1 hip :1nd cigarl'tre c1sc were con,idcred e.s.se1Hial :tcccs
.1 t.'Ct:lCJ'.lllon d mr bel ic' 1..'d a d ri 11 k :u a ci\'arct rc .:tl"tcr \\ere f\\ n n ( t h"' rl1 I'L't' bc.:-;t

rhmgs in I he demise of wbaccu C'\ en 1 he mnst I ish of smnking impkme11L'.
\\ hile rlw ha' gone rht: ''a) nf tlw ''"niL 'lick. (h,nhe ntntttcm. 'L''- -rill in fa!'lti,'tl.)
The re\i\cd fc" :-;Jnctinnl;!d ill'tlht.l(,dt"-cmbc!II.,htnL'nt Cltdd:'ignit')
rhc \\l.'an:r husinl?'' and .soc.al srattl". \\'idt tlw rerum l'r cui"!" u ... thl: Ct.,llcett'r\
\\Ti't or pockcn,:tiCh. and 'deer'' riring in:-LniiiiL'llb, lllnrc men bccmw cofltYTl'r' 1.1f' image
JC\\dr: rhnn in <111) other pcrir1J p( rhc Cl?lltlll').
l.HE FrNGER RING The llll rhe 111<1lc l.itwer lwQan IL" Cl\iltt.cd th ...

I I!'PWHI!i \\IHl linked th ... m tl1gl'rhcr into :1 necld:Ke <1 a ft,nn of (1t1Tl'IIC). The md
.t., uf(ici .. tl "LJI:-, and b) the l'nd n( \Iiddle
\gr:"t nug Lxc..ullc pt1rular th,lt dTerc \\l.'rc 1.1\\., lt11biddttlg
tlern.m "ith I ttt k ur 110 >pcrty aml men bch '" d lL' r.u 1k n( k 11 iglu-
h, td w \\ one During the hue Rcnais,ancr. the an o( heraldn
'-' I
amnlduccd a\\ hlllc raft<'( "ignc:l rillg crcstul "ith 1 he cnm nt"
.trm J(ld:l) fr.ncnlit} pin' and sdmul Gtrl) ou tr.tdition.
\\ orld \\ .tr II the double ring \H:dding ccrc>mtJll) \\ :1" a rar
l
at bm b) lhe middle ncar!} lJO percc11t u( t\mcric.m lm:'
b.lnJ, h.1d ll'\1\l'd tht: old-\\llr!J CUsr0111 or \\Caring get! ... ! 01'
pl.nmum band
\'i l{w linger is ttstt:lll) Jlllll\', Pll
}L1ttllgL:r men.\\ l10 should 'ilh:k wirh lllnmmr.:nt.
\k
1
t\.' orn.m: lllllll11rtrn.II 1 ingo; haH:' s het'll cnn.,.i ... lc.rcd
gaudw .md .1 'OCIJtt.'<l \\ tth met I" ho a II\ ing h) c
( )rg.mt/ 1tic '11.11 ring:;. d,p;, ring . or fa mil} ere' I . md
mtltt.ln Call bl \\Ofll Oil either h.md rhc 'lglll'l ri11g j,
I
l -
t\ rtl.lllH' ltl the !)imple \h.'dding band o1 Jl''' ring.
\\ ht:n cngr.l\cd \\ nh the imtials. H th.n nne could
h.ul from t:h.n 'iJdc (,f tht: rmcb \\here forcbe.u-, r:11led up('ll
their ll\\ n c.1l to notJrizc nr pared )tttl.llld
Rogtirt iu douMr. ringtd undtrst,lfr.urrnt
.,.,-
D.R :..\ s 1 =' c
n n 1'
f
----
C U F F LI N KS AND DRESS J E rhc golden age ofjewd') '' '\pauncd
ninctl'clll h cctHllf}' LO the beginning of the 11rst \\ uh the later an nomc.m and
:ll'l dcco pcriud:- prvduci11g '0111C. G'\lr:turdinaq dt:sign and craft lUJJFhip r d,l) 3 patr of
Fd"ardi:111 cuiTimk:' or an ('.lrl)' l:anicr t:mk \\atdt a man one of the fe,\ opportumuL-.:
1

anuallr an of be:HII) nnd antiqttil) "it bout e1iciung Lhc di. apprm mg luql of hi
some fanciful tale tracing th,: origin or rccallmg n.s cdcbrnn.>t.i U\\ner
011 h Kl':-. the nn .sriq1 1L' of a s(Yntll..11tn nd cdlenibll.!.
' I
It -.:1iJ that ward1i11g a gtnt undf1 ltts cuff links t'\C'f} bit Cc)r a
\\oman as (nt' ,1 tu hc<t r L he 1 'l'lvr d, l\\ n the back of Reg.lrlflcss of Ill) c no
rorm ur shinsk:e\ ('closure n 111:111' hand hcll.:r I hnn (] \\ I J"('IlCh cufr ftCCC'lllJt'd
b) the glaJnc1uruf it' buaunlwlc cu\l"ring lit1k.
The mosr prl/cd pfcuf(-link ilJ'I h:l\e rdt("d on .til J(:mrstdt:-' we lll\C\
thtir and lineage. -1(, Cull) l!xpklit tht> cufflink\ potenu.tl ,idt
shfluld bc:1r :1 and connect with a chain or link, 1 he rcnson iris \Cl nnmed. \\'l:anng ruff
link' Lhat clip on one c.-..:posL' the supcrstrunure. and sugge t rou could afford unl) thr
\!Old l)r on the nur.;idc. ThPugh it admitrcdJ) ro lmk rrcnch (uff \\ 1th a bar
._ ... ..
that pushc' rhrnugh it." four burr,)nlwk ... on I} half of each hand L'nd ... up cmbdln.hed
ABOVE:
\rnund 19)1. along ''irh the nc" backdrop of Palm
Heach, \\'lllle di1111Cr drcs:"- .sn1d!' and matching cuff lml..s
\\ irh colorLd '\toties crL'atcd a .s.rir. CufC!inh \\ iLh brighr.
1L1btc'. l'11lcr:1ld.:-;, (.)J' .... arc. ,uJI h 10
lor d.1\ wear ;,nLI n:sen cd ft)l' aftt:'r-dark nr
.
Ia tcr c\ en "cll -d rcN.:d man should all :muyuc l",f
'llld' \ pmpL'I' drc:-' set nf jcwdf} include:- pair of douhle
.s1dcd cuft" linb t\\ o or rhrL'I:? marching .:-hin and nu tc\\er
rhan rhrcc w:ti.stcnaL button .
\ n \ mcncan tJwcmion. rhc 1 ie hnldcr or <tdds a
roL
1
ch llr cum rolled t\ tic dasp rhc tte undl!r crln
trol. preventing. it (rnm tbpping in the breeze or :tcling a-. a n:tp
kin while dining In additif,n. a(fixing dw til! t'l rhc .. hin\ from
helps 1('1 m;1itlt:lin the arch in ncckband Tic bar
lllC:lSLII'C of" p.lll:lChl' ... men\\ ho JllU!-1 lllCk their
Ct)lll' tn .. hnlh.i" till (' their ll\)ll\L'I H>ps. :1 b I rrJ \hm}

c:
111
t thctr" dlwn" ro .1nwrc ca.;u.JI .tir
Canting tltt' tie clip d!lwnward cfficrs a casual
elan attd att ecceutrif charm.
In the .,j,uc:-. tie em mto dedme the
,t\

wider nc \\,1-.thrcm n offcentL'f"hen clipped to the


-lL,d:J\. bar.' hL '-tmplc and under-.ratcd. though a
wl
111
n,tl":ll (\IlL'

add .1 bit of irrc,cvencc r,l the haghbro"
OPPOSITE
Cary Gram iu ll'l'il:flrtt'd rrctrch cr!ffs.
, (1
-'
DRf! .'d" l;
T fi [T M A I''
TIMEPIECE
AN D \i\l IZI T\J\IAT C 1--1 E
un u11a t ely. 'h' e 1110\ ed be} t)IJd the Victnrian taboo on publtc o( a tnnl p
1
cea.: (.
1
t niL' gent Ieman \ cnnccnh ''ere nnt 'lii'PCI"icd to include the of rime) On 1hc uthtr
h.1t11..l: till ac.tor Peter ( rItHllt: 111.1} h:n t: rarried a bit 1 ;,o i:1r \\hen J t, ,,In ht
l'd .1 '' :nch 1J11 b0t h "rist'. ht? rcplieJ. 1 1fc J:o. lOt> shon L"O ".1'-Ung prt.nuu ....
gl.wri11g :lt Llw 1'1.1\t.''
Ll rl r L'l iLllll't l C rcq I ti rl'd l he pnd{l'l \\:11 ch I() :lCLO Ill pa I he I a ilcn,H. \\ l:nll' .1 thlll drt''>S
dl'l.."tnl'Ll 1ppn)pri:H1.' \\ear 1 ke" clmm
pncht \\:ltch :Jchtc\n.l 'i:-ibilit) during rhe Lhintc' a' n hccam'" thl; umfunn
l'hllh .tnJ C\L'ntng 12 ... , Hbck and \\ hitt: lttqueltl' -)
l )nc llll'asuremcllll'ra Lirncpiccl\ qu.tllt) and drc ... thmnc :-. L
mam men \\Car I )ick 'LJied "risn,:ncltc!- '' idt bu!-inc. .... :o-uiL' (.1lnug, ''Hh ,h1n
\\hlhL (li(J-:. .ll'l' t:itht'f [l10 :-lhH'f t>l' ltll1 !till'(' at rhc \\l'i,t). 0H?r!cizc \\3tCht:' do lnde for lhl'
man\; m cr.11l :-n .md t:ncum

bran(cS in\'ariabl) !lcccfcrall: the (m, mg of
rhe <>hin:, cttii
1 '( h.nc the1r
Ll\\ n \\ ht:n it tn "n-.r d 'n''
0
\ lrhough thcr Jont general!\ faH'r t ht>
f-rench l'll f( thC) do like thru barrel cuff,
[I) fit ... .u d1l \\ n..,l . le:n ing lml >
for :Jll} 1hit1(1 but the mo t slt"udcr
.;::,
"risf:\' ;uch I ral} \ {)\\ n .. nukl inJ'l'r"
cro,\nl.'d the -Ral..l' of' rilL

.. back in dw h.t ... hetn "on
t t.llJ'ng -..tnnri.1I and nthc !'\\ N
3' I 3!' am ('Ill' c.m rrmcmbcr \\ ''
'-' .
c1do .. rc.-.nhPd h1 "}'h'Hung
his rn e1 his ... htrt \ufT alil'f "lud1
all lt:ll) m'lte.
L_


----
THE Bl1LITl>NNIERE
n of timner da) ... , the w<.aring '-l .1
IJpd \\J.S a"} mbo1 of gnKiuth lh ing .. 1 tnburc
n., the bd\ un \ llllf arm. a'" dl to) t..'ttr hL':-t or ho:-t

.. 'har .... it \\"3.'- rwthing to ,, man
..
.t bnlHL1tmicrC' loda). rh.m 11.1\ oring the
...
odd l.1pd an -old b<..1) .. ar .. n c 'omc clitl'
r"'
1
pn..'lom cuming ttpnn t u' grace 11<..' l t' oi male
rcltlll'JliUH l' ,1 J":ll"lr\
\ fC\\ blade ... abom ro" n :-till in--ist on m.tin
tJtning lhc Pkl . randlrd' not appt.aring in coaL
.tnd lfl.' '!Uns.nnrr )brk an:i'l .md d.md} Richard
\ lcrkm 1' ont of the h\."lldour'. ]1 'i rllt:' ... uit.:'.... "cit
brl.W>l '' .1 ... dc.>rgnt'd m hold a pocket I mndker
dud rlh.' l.tpcl bunonhok '' ns nude m :KLC'm ll1l)
d.ttl' .1 flm l.'r \lthou\!h n bouronnicre is no
'
.:xpcctu.i or C\iCI1 comt:nrionnl to&l). 111nn
th.m not, tht: mau "l1o one (ulr-ill-; rhc
pmmi c: l,fgcnnltn sugt.c..,ted b) 'th:h
the ronccalcd oJIIar button. the stem
..__ __________________ _
of lapd b lUtonniL:re hould l im i.;iblc. dudlL'" are Fimdwd with L:1ilor
mg dct,ul required [0 proper!} 't.1gl:' the J41pd fl1)\\ cr\ a\\ orking buttOllhuiC 011
rhe J.h . i.<:f lt.ft l.1pd of nor lc,:,' rh.lt) 1 inch tn :md loop t)r rhre1d to hok1 Llll' flo\\cr\
tt.m on thl.lJpcr-- undcr.!'ide. Rc!-l't pinning. .1 flower ro the nut-.idc l'r rour bpel. rcgLu"t.11e .... or
rlu '-'ct.JillCOl,lOn lr nor onl} make_, } ou look lih :111 u. her at j wl'dding. i1 .lppLar!' if the
tlc \\cr 1 \\c,trmg \llll If }Ollr L..11111ot propl'rl} the? bmnonnit..n.\ there no
going t'llt of )Ollr\\3\ m Jcm 'Hsl tt
Bt:(Ull'ol: bouronnicrc natur.III) .llll':l(t' Lhe ere. iLs shuul\1 \.krlfttd siillpl}
.mJ Jt,t lltrth rht. bl.."'i flm, crs arc rhos(' tll.lt prm idl' a p.l n In tla r spu t nr h l l t lOll o( (l}J ll m:-. I. I i kc
carnatrun ('f J'hc . mnll c:mwrion\ b;l\;e i"tt:' im., mw.t l.tpd
''l11k t' nor:so l.trge a"i tn mrn\hdmthc.J\t:r.lge "tdrh lapt'l. lk(au.;t.: it' b.l'l' em in
rht" butronhtllc: \\nhmu stem h.nlllg to be in dw buttonl11)lc gu.trd. n c.111 flat
L '-
.tg.lin r rhl: l.1pd
T IRn '<em .... robe an imprc 1 har the \H.'.tnng \)f bm:h polkct sqt1.1re .md bnu
rnmlh.:n. t t.hc cqtm,JltYnofgildmg the Iii} Thi aberrant nntiou 'uppnncd b) ncithC'r aflL)
n.tl tndttJL'n nor ht tllnc.1J pracncc 1 1 pcrft:ctl) proper to \\C.lr hl'th .1 pucker h.mdkcrLhit..f
.mJ .1 flo\\L'f :.c. t \ aden.ccd of the gentlemen in book
..,.,-!

Dlt.L.'>.S IN G
11-I AI"' I"
f
TELLING TA J L. Tl-1 E F-I I STORY
ht. rrrilco:u ".1:- inaugur.ncd b) th'- l.mmu" ( ,eur_;e Bq :m -ncau Brummdl
\\ 'bile lHhcr t.bndie!' or!Jis ci:l} \\()J"C colurrul CU!It.!- and ft)ft.'\l'lllllg dk t..:llltlh:ll[ \Jr
Bnlllltllell d{11111ed a blur Lail co:H bl:1d lm.:'ech\:'". \\hire wa1 tcu.n :md .,_hin
1
1l,
11
g
with .1 "bin: ned. doth :u1d ,1 () i tlt.:h 't :1 rclwd CtJII<I r ofh is u" n i m "nuun 't!ar tl11.: end uflw. n:
1
gn
a:-. rhP (bnd; dcrintt iH. all lUJ'llCd t1 '0111ber ancl loL"Icd bad *\in.:l..'
The t:1ikoar h:1s ch:mgld 'en litd, sitJ( it: :.1!'1 a ridingcu.H dunno 1he
L I ..._ &... l:'
p:t n or dtc cigh ll'l'lll h lTllt II n. I kGHISI.:' I t.s II Hlg frulll'' prm cd rumhcrsnme fbr \\ afkmrr ,}'. \\ dl J't
.. ....
riding. it!' llli.Xicl \\as (lll baLk. I llWdrrn taikom dnto;, nut hunon Ill rrunt
and -:till rhrce buun11:-. on cnher 'licit.? o( il ._honer front'' uh a \.Cilt .md buth llll the;
b.Kk. :1 'C!'t ige llf a when '' u"ed h..' attach a\\\ ord or Gutt(m back rhl' bon, 1m of thr
I
ro:H when \\alkingnr ndtiH.!.
... ...
, \' tlJt.' quill l l.'S!'C'tlliaJ ") mbnl or the l.ngli,hman'!-1 formnllt) tbl\ ganntJll
..;cnt,:.; rhe ..::--am smndard by dh.: Briti"h gemlt!man l(x m.1lc elegance \llth.n \\a'l nt:t!dt'd \\a'-.
(,x the t:liiPr to appl) 1t.; pmpl)rt illtlS m r hl! '' L'<lrcr\ frame. :md pn..sro- m crag..: llll'll turned inh'
tlh'l\ i(' like Adulphe \knjL)lt, one l)( llnll) "t)ud\ l{:1ding p:tragons of
TI-lE TAILCOAT
iko:u-. "ere orKc akin to Fords it \\':1!'\ a puim o( pride d11t the modtl sddmn changed
Cut ()11 :1 lin.: to rhc knee" idl the rn1Jll llni,hing abom cllc the r;ulcll.U fit
,_
. .;nugly ro the chest rfir \\ere buttlllH:'Lt t\ man hcighr IL>ok:-o in a tailcoat fca
wring fullnc'' :Kro"- the elk 'L obligator: jX':Jkcd !-hould nor be Ill
t h and should be C1ccd in ci l her ,Jl k or s:H in "irlu1 cloth Lollar: The \.had,
lclwth rc ... t about :.minch bch.lw 1 he bend t)f thl..' knce Tl!t: t.lr rhc coat (Uru "hglnh
I:'
t'\cr tin. htr" running down tl") the r.uJ, "ith norhing but dw m,} .. tt..rtul unobtru.sJ\C
an lO hold d1cm tu the f1gure
ThL coat's o )lbr should em cr shirt f(lllar':-; rear :md the 1\'ar b:md ofl.,(l\\ lh:' '' IHir
rc\C:lling :1 mch or rlw \\ ingct)llac \Vhcn,,IH? j, \\'lth r.1i cd tht
... 1 1 J l I 1 dr -oJr fium pvi nt .. h mid fin
(\),11 nnt pull up rr1 rL'\ La t 1c ":li,TCO.ll" "1\.ll' 1,: I Ill_ 1 h. l.:..'' L .. '
l
- 1 I 1 I , I " :1. r -o:n c;-.1" nd' bdl l\\ 11 l1lt: ttuk Mt '
j,!J bd1 . .t\\ t hL' n:uura "tliSt 1111..' t l<ll Ill) pan 11 1 1t " lltt: ". 1:-. L L
J 1 1 . m , hr the:-\\ tt.hh t ( thL innnal
'dl!L'\ arl..' cut narro": ) L't not mpcrcu 1 1:11 r lt:) t.:.mnot d.>lil ' l 1. __
shin'.-. cuff. kngrh .:-hould bc enLmgh to .1lkm the L''l.dt hJ t:\tc:n..i
:1b1 1ut ,\ 3
4
inch. ,:o;lt.:l'\ (.' c.trric lI1N.h ,, t button:'
0
THE DRU5 VIAJS:TCOAT" S POUlTS
5HOULO MltVER PTEHD B"E'LOW THOSE
0,. "TH
tME 80 fQM QF "ft4S TAILCOAT
SHOULD UNit UP Ym"H "ff ..
BACK A fot.t.M' S KN.
Frtd n tilrs a 1'f'st deng red _
jttr rlu' l,rmcc of\\ ale;
. .
THE FlJLL- Dili SS \AISTC0 1\T
ormul drc:"' dtcr.Ht:' a \\hire bir .. r c b.Kklc (piqul.:)
1n etdwr smglc- or brcn.-.ted dc:-ign. The most rradirional
mudd '' the . I collar '' i 1!1 l h b111wn The
....
b tnL!m edge" of dw dn-., lapd, c.111 either be wundccl or
'\ 1rl1 rhe front gcnc.r;lll} cndi11g in twu S} lllllll'tric1l point:-.
though there.-.., orne tlc:-..:tbilil) lterl\ as detlll'll'trmL'd b)
1
h'p I Jar.
\\'lutt. Tic . md faib him,..elf rrcd .t\swirc llcre lw a rcp!tca o( rhl
model dut rht: .. tl .)hin ath.l < :uni:-- h:lL1 dc\nc up
it"'r I fa-, I fighn '"' rhc Prinlx of \\';lll' which legend goc1'1. Lh<?y
polncl) rdil'eJ ro m:ake for Freel.
The dt:cp c pening must bt ('lit
tix ir' narn.m from ro co' rhc .)hin bib from bot rom
.md \\ai rb.md "irhour irs l'\' n bt)lfOlll
...
bt'1 ond the t.11ko:n =- end pnmL'-. prt!\'..:'111 the 't . !'rom
pullmg up. tlw cur recti) tailored' crsion provided :1
ing lJb rh.n huttoned LO rhc trt1Uscrs'
1

Fine arc:ss I''.StS lzmlf a tt1b
rlwr 111 to tlte trousers.
---- - 1
Nothing so quit-kl}' gil'es th!! ll'dl dressed ma11
a11 attach of rlz, 1'apvrs as the sight <?[the waisftom
showing bmrarlz the fr,mrs ofa taflr.o,rr.
DRL,Sl''
1 1/f M .. \ N
f
-----
FULL- ORE
:til,,rcd 1ium mntdting cloth the dre's trowtr reqwrc" rh.m
tll)l'lll.d ri..,c .111d 'li"J'C' Ih.h?rs 10 'It pt'i1pcrl) undl.'r the htgh rut raiknal Jnd
'hon .... ted drc':- ,,..,.,L It \\,lsn, ltH'Ilothj,,g that l\1enj,lu rnlo2d hi-. amthmg
r.tplt) It Ti.1ok Ni11L' Tmlws. <.)b:-t:rH' d1e height ,,r his w.ai:.;tcoat \\hich sets.
the -;tagt the propnniL'Il" lligh drco'
1.1\lllsCI's LI.:-LI:lll) !lllgkd t'OW:Jrd I 11) lll tiistriblllt' the
rul!lll'.SS 11ll\\ :trJ with \'Crrical Ull "\t':ll11 side .lS Tlt)l '1"(;1 dJS
turh rhe line dwuld :.1 lll;lll dHH'SC ru a lmnd imo om
lul l ... I rL '' tTou:-cr' brLak .sl igh d) :u 1 in!'tt:p. and
:-htlllkt be 1 "id1 l\\ l> ll:tiTLl\\" plain braid, set dnse together
THE FORMAL DRESS Sl1IRT
AND BOW TIE
dinnci j..., another item hn.Jt'b no de\ i
rrolll tradition ro run her ren Ill' dw \\'C:lrcr s \ jo,;agl'.

ir lcawres a (prdcrablr w nnal'h) wing
cullar. a stilT bib front th<lt :K((llllllll)datc.; either one or t:\n.l
(dcpc.?nding \.Hl height). and ,jngk culf-;.
ThL' \\ tdth or the btlSl)lll, biblikc in boikd plain
linent'r ... uiT pique. L:'o\ nor rt' under rlw .... ''hilt.. tL"
length lO 'toP shnrr Llr d1L' trtlll'-t'l',' If It' Ol;lrchl'd t"rt>UI
\..!XlL'i1LkJ tltL wp ..... ''hen a lll:tll .snL ir \\(JUld bill(m
like 111 l-ull\' ind, Ltke dw \C\l , rlw \\Cll m:1de (ornllJI ,!tirt lm-. .1
tab th:H at'IJxcs to a burron on the tmu ... cr, iw.;idc ''ai..;rb:wd.
ThL' set l11. the (11ll:1r .tnd bl'" til' j.., h} h' thi.:-
...
ekg<liKc. Designed tc..) .;it high on
the neck. the dramatic "111g to
sh1l\\ 31
4
ind1 the taiko:n\ rl":tr ('l'lbt: or
1
/
4
inch mnre thL' (urmal Lllrlh.ln" n
t:"ulbr !'hirl \\ hcther in 'L'I11j hut ttrll)
The llc:ighr l{tlzr taik.,at
ll'aistliur is rile: lmdzpiu L"!f this
tuscmblls disrinctf,c clrgaucr.
-




A PRtlPERLY MADE DINNER SIHqT HAS A
-AB THAT f'ASTENS THE TRO\JSERS
,.0 KEEF l'r F"ROM PULLING UF
----
------
THE BOW TIE ALWAYS SITS IN FRONT OF"
THE WING COLLAR"S WINGS.
nr ban\ mg !o.hapc he \\hiLL' ptque hem\ elllf, nrc :tl\\ a)' "OJ'n in fn,tll of rhc \\ ing cvllar tab ..
11('\l."r bt:hind fn..1111 the 1:1ct th.tt ing' nl the lriginaJ :--cpa rate cullar"' t"ould
ltt'h'r h.n\: tlt kncJttc..:\.i b(m. d1c t:tb 'Pring hdped to push the bm\ l'ie lt)l"\\ m\L
\incc thc.,c 'rud'. :wd lll."t'd tP be precisclr lincd.Ltp. rln: ,,J,itL-ric ki1
twght be .omc torrn tJ( \ ictnrian T(J the L"0IllT<11'}. "hen npprupriatd} wi
ll'rl!d the outfit i c.urprisingl} .. \ 111.!. 11n1 h.t\'ing I\) \\\'lr'f) .tbmrr tlw ck't h\.s i11g
put .1111.111 \.",111 .Uld Oil 11101'1? import:"! Ill SliCh a:- tilt' J,,C:HitHI n( the b.ll'.
STUD ENSE
m C" lmg m .1 mnLching of am iqul' drc.: ' l.:r:dt cd during the l.nc 11 i IWl\:'\..'11 t h lW
t\\t"nth.:th 111 U1L:ttJ1c.r l..,f pearl 1S knr.H gnld tlr !..ltht:r pr"!CiL lli.S llllttlrial:; itr tit
\\JJ'Iluat birtfrLHlt and L.uff '' ould be lllUilC\ \\ dl , \ ..,lim guld pn..:kt"t w:uch "it II
tint." le} ..:h.w1 \\OUIJ "'mgmcnt 311} l(:u-m.II prt.''1Cllt:11ion Cnmpleti11g the piourc. dn:.-!' ...
1muld Iw bl.td the calf m or"' f1111.: nblwd Llll ron lidc" irh or\\ it hom dncb I ur for
opt:r.t pumps or plJm tnc in bl.lck Gtlf or pat em leather nrc m.mdarcd
llt:oJlhH,lropttorb mdudL' thl' "!ilk opera h.u or top hal pJircd '' 1rh .t or
doubk bn:.1 t<..'d drt: dH. .. 111 bl.lck or midmght \\ ith matching cPII.u:
I
FORJJIIL\V
DRf;,:.fNG
TfH ,\fl\1'
---
--
( )b\ ii)IISJ). :111} Cll:lfVs'l)l"n ror lllll"il DC lung L..'llllllgh to CO\erthe tntlcoat b l1 Jtll \\hldl
ts ''It) thcIungcr thl man\ coat. th.: dn:ssicr it wnd ... tolr)l)k

d
1
e mw.
1
,
01
gm:
0
f.
1
11 tonnal
("l>.ll j, .shorter lcng1h .. \ 11h:.l)JC' single hreasted, A} from modd \Hth r.
1
gtm-,huuld r: ..
peal.cd Ltpel.s. cc1llnc \Vith \\hilt. and cc,rn:-.pnnd.ing ,,hnt tiL muf
fler.glml?' linen handkct\:hk{:md mmi carnatiou.s\\clleganrc ,
8
ne\<:dnrbehmd
SEM I -FOlZMALWEAR
dol phc jnu "as once "lu..:l hc.r J k' though r the dmn.:r Jnckcr \Hmld endmt>
lie replied, L
1
( cour ... c iL -.i ncc this Ia"' \ cstigc of upper-cia:-. ''a a \Jnboll"'f gr.
1
cic)tb lh ing thar 11aid tribute tc1 tlw l:tth l)ll rour .1n11 :b \\ell
r J o
\.s rhe n.llllL' the dinner \\:I\ dun a lcs form.tl dmmg
\\ ClrJl iu rhc pri' <K) pf nne\ home or club The original d,,ign dunng the
nineteenth ar the of thr l'rin-:c (later h.ing) I dwnrd \ I) ,du
w.111 a more :1ltcn 1:11 i\ t' 1 (l d 111c i 11 rhau rhe rail c\ ening com \\ n b n'
..
bodKr'LlillC r.11L I Icrc i roy:1l wilnr 1\)nlc'.s ledger rccordmg th\? Prince of \\ales origm.tl
order fnr rhc riF.S[ dinner jad.:.ct.
The Ll1IlSC.ll'll' j, that the fu,t 111Pdd or tillS l( raJC:0<1f brc:!l "uh n
...
roll ("t1lbr (shJ"l) in black \\t)lll "irh bl:lck silk on the lnpl'l This same Jacket
had been sported._,, a jacket .. in ... ill.. 'civet b) dw I nglt-.h gemn Ir ..
:-;ilk lifted from 1hc Laiko.H' l.tpel'. ladie_, did n01 -.moke and u1.1 tLd
that their hu,bands confine tl11 nnxillll.; .Ktr\il) .md j<Kkct to another nJom I rom that ttmt.
rh rough rhc early bbl'k- tiL" au i rL' w:1s dtemL'd ac("cpmblc in the pri' nf ones home or
dub. whcrc<l!' thL' t:Jikoar L'blig:HOr) pol ire s('CJCl)" 111 public
lur the low-down how the wilcrtt" manngc?d 10 acqmrc tin:
tuxedo,'' please to the gJL,...-:ary lllmc,cr. the term "tll\.cdt.,: ofren .lbhre\i<Jtcd ttl .. tuck.-
or c\cll \\OI:..,c. "tux.'' i1-> thankfulh oll1r111cd tt' rlw L 11i1ed tt

tl!nncd the d ir 111cr j<lcket here abt\'lild. rare!} m:xcd"'. I?\ <.:n in -111!\l'do !'Jrk
'\.t.'\\ York.
ThL Il)2.u:- produced 1-irst tiiH,(fici.ll designer Lhc Prinrc of \\aft, later
Kinu and c'cntualh the IJukc l,( \\ in,Jq,r and .1 bitl)l.tm.th'rtck he ".1"
t"t '
to rhrnw orr the (.)r gencr .. HIOil I \("11 Jt,,
:1bd rem iun i 11 19 the l' rinn had '" "'rn \ff t ht bc.:)ilcd from l'\ cning ,htrt :md
(nllar the more (wnt dinilL ...r 'hin "11 h ,t,ft_ :n1J-:hl;d tlJntdo\\
11
.
coli:! r I k al.-.o piciiWl'l'ed the wai,tt"O:ll fun\lar in \\ nnncr diml':- g, rhc end 1)1
-----
/J'R
.!.t I
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/
-
y
/
-- -
-
, .
L
tltL'l<J30 \\ ith dw cott:'rie t.1rrup1l i'\\d[., legging :1routtd in rht: h1r ..
e t !t.Cnll ti 1rnml trnpprng5. dw dinnl!r jnckcr bc.:gan 111 rc.:plncc rhe tailcllat.
?\:o other era could ha\c produced !lw:h ,1 Em:h
---.
I
Ifmrr Pools ldgcr rlu'}ir.st I
ord,r)or a Ji11ner TtLXt'.dn JcLker.
rt>p of rhe dinn.:r C\OhJuun '' .,, b)' rlw pertccrion 0C
rhr outf1r H mtcndtd to rl.!pbce- the uf 111.1le elegance. dw LailcLl3r ,md whill. Lie
1\rno. the culmm ...tnun of the dinner facket\ dc-.:rgn in the hue n1cn':-- }'t!t to
unp'o\e upon the gt.:nm" oCirs original Jc,,ign or the flfits acc<.'ll
tn:mcnt'J The nc" dinn1:r jacket pt'ojcrtcd :r lcHI ol- ;lth.i da .... s equal w of its
., ' .,
__ ,_
DRJ ,_\4 Nli
r11 r J\1 \ "
JACI(ET DOG1vi A
, rill' dt'.sCL'lldant l'f 1 he r,1ikoat.
din11cr \\ith up\\.ud bpP1s
imc:'h :1ll lllL'Il with a11d height. \\'ith onh vne
L
\\:ti-.t bllllt)ll ltJ l!t.,IL'Il. it ):11 (tf Cltlll!lll'r
bLtlld CO\CI' tilL' lr.t.Ht<;t'n,' \\:tisth:llld.
I nr ho dtm't ohjvn to \H.: arillg tltlir jacket bur ..-
IClllL'll. I h, dn11hlc dinner ,qual
tiutl "llilc \\ ith tlw nr
t..ttllllllL'rbUJld. l'lallkLd b} l\H) nr C.ll'(> '\llCiL'I) 's ll10fc ttOig_llC
:tt\' ..;:uin husb:llld 1\,ner \\ tdl Ill
" LlllJa. l),,ug Fai rba 11 k, I r in gw-.grai n (, nen
'"- '--- "- I
\ Vhilc dlL -.ILl\\ I CL)IIar dinner jacket s a 'Omt?-
" h:H 0ld-world i than the peaked bpcl. the cu n c of irs
l:tpLItL'Itd" Ll) t:n<.'r the ITh1rL' angubr ph}'iognmn) '-nll rhro'''
<lrchitl'L"llln: to rhc '' ind hL thm c..'ld-bl')
I ;lrh L'IT the peg tu.\t:dll:- in gk1.'')
.s.trin \r unc polllL rhc Ru" .. nt decided th:1t the'
lhtllcd ribbGti -..tlk gn.i.sgr:ltll CL)IlW) cd :1 111orc
pcdigrcl'. IIP\\e\'CI'. <1S long l)lll' npl\ ror :l llr
mudd trimmed
ABOVE
Tlte S. B. dimwrjnckrt wit I. ptaktd inpr:ls.
OPPOSITE
Cflle Portrr aud DClli_g fair.bauksjr
u1 D B. Jwurr jaikm ..
111 -..HIIlt grosgrai 11 , '' ith cirhcr 'ha" I t'f pr..:::nkeJ bpd ... per
Nud ComrrJ ill cr .mavit}'
. - ----
mancm 1:1:-;hion j, :b..;urLd.
Dinner jackc-r modd, dur i .. ne m 1 hl:'"t'
four cl.l''ic :u(lll't) or boa:.;t ,uch inf@rnul emhdll',h
mcnh .l' rwtched Pr tl.1p P'-Kket..., de' oh \! inw
. ..::cll1H11ming bod1 .ll''thcnc
l<wil and ll'i n!'()flli\C ll( dcg;tll((' rhe \\holt;' idL'!l
r
tl a (nrmal :-uit '' it ....df fn .. Hn rl1L
L1 I b u 'i IlL'"' '-lll r. rw t rl' pl t' i r
-I he babncc 0r thC' dinner J.hkct \
ing t\'111illll't 1:111-1) ..:rr.1i,ghtfon' .1n..1-J '' eh pulkl't \r
<t "hi 1 c I i nl'n handkcn:-hief .md ;1 \\l,)rkmg hutt\mholc un
the krr l.tpd m hold bouronmcrc 1 )oublt be
(jLttcd) hip .... can be eirlwr plmn ,...,r rrimmc:-d m thl:
,jlk a.; the lapd. like rhe tht> 'lllgll:
j:tcht t.1b.> '' ..... r and fnur 't't
I
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----
':llt:c\ c bunons, "hich C1J1 cuher simple black hlrn
ur cmcred in the lapel' facing (en her gro'-gntm or
o;atin to match)
incc formal aHatt hdd 111 dm1aLt:
controlled em 1rons. a finished or uniuw.lwd tmd
\\l?ight (q' 2 to I O' z huuld take .1
m:Hl c01nfonablr through ea.sun" of d1e \Car
Like r he tailc :u, dinnel' dorhe.s arc trimmed in facmg
of, :tl) ,,flu.,.rer, rhcretoJ(! so a llllt ttl mt:'r
sr:w: the sheen quotient. th,; jncl,et bar
shuullf be in a dt died or m:llle fm1sh ubtl trxturrd
...
e cl leers such as barathe.Js and miw hciTingbtme:-
">r quit'L moid afienar:wn '\hrJe
nddi11g surf.Ke m the fonnnl an,emble
\Vhcn it comes 10 col<'r the \\ 1lr h.:d
cluth i:- limited to black or midnigiH blue In the
...
111idnighr blue began to replace black bccau e
undL'r anilki:1l dark blue retained it. richne:-s "hilL" blad

.sumcti mc.s c uiY n ruo;r nr a rrificta1 cast The term .. blue"
conjured up imjgL'' l)( the -.hank nf C'\Cning. ''hen ronmnce i.lnd
r;Jmbultnic)U\tlc .... \\CIT in lull .,, ing. \Vhil e midnight blue
cnal's orilTJnalh IOt'k matchtng (:.Kings, bbck or s.ltlll tnm
Ct 4 \.. \,__.; \..J; I
111ings h<l\L' bl'L:Il "orn c;inn: (he rhirtic-..
Back i 11 rlw day' when thL' bon Yi' rcquirt:"d more tlmn CII1L
dinner jacket. ir W:l\ not unusual rv find him a
i11 llll)h;lir or :-;ilk. rht dulled sheen ofbab) mohair and
fme ,n,r'\fcd "no! i.s l111l' of the le\\ ra. ... rcfuJ c:-..ceptmn' rule that
norrnalk tn parn:m1 s1dt of the track I lc.rc
<.

1\ rtdniglu .blue fonnalwear ..
LEFT:
Signiorc 1\gud/i shiUt'S.
-
Dl
l ER] CKET _ L TERN;\TI \ IES
"one .hetml rhe .. or:i:1li.HI\.icr, wid1 : r' ft1r un, thL' \)r
c- r
dinner pcket Paired'' ith rhc tr<.)u:-;er. nonmatching
1
,tckt.>t un\.lgJtc: '' ofrt.:n .1 'arintim1 ('111 rhe 'ch l't -:-. llH'king j:1ckct theme .wd t radit ionall)
((ule-. ... grand .1Hnir-. '' a' ih ronl(,rm" w l)lll' l,r dw
.. ..
mcnnoned n ... Elbric can illl'{ \\it h a\.h i?tlturc. ll'l the ['ludlt.'SS n( "l'lll rmn1 his
..
1 cmdon hnusc w her .m rh.Jril)t. our man } nirbanb: .1 ..... Iun-f:1Cl'd "Ill' 'king
1'\kcr and slipper 111 tm:.
an apllJmb thar Lmlr dw gcnuiJlL' tl,ff Glll art i!'r :md
Ce -,) H nton "quire' to the I ngli .. h prcmicrt o( G1m lkt\\
Beaton\ c \\11 formal i dll'ir "-'her (n,rb. the coupl,.: gi:HllllliL
245
r () R ,\J A I, \V Elt
- - -
LEfT
D. Fmrbauks ftJ smoki11g}atkct and monogrcmtmtJ slippas.
--
RIGHT.
Cedi Beaton drt55i7lgfor him(clf
l.-f6
D R [ '1.'1 I l.
n 11. ' l A 1'>
L

-
Tl-I E I3LACJ(-TI E \\fA I. T
Ill undcrpi11ning high dinth::r clothe" \\as urjginall) to be in\J.
1
bk
I )J"t''' ..:tud-.: hid the evening slltli ltolc'. :1nd the formal trou.,.,n um
side r\'lllll\\ ing in the t:1ikn:11 ',:.; (l,<'l"lCps. tilL' dinner j.tcket tlw
:-.en icL's o( till' dress \ or (llllllllt:rbttnd tC'l ;llld smoorh ._,,crt hi! t"<lge" L1f th..: ,fun,
bl,'-t.Hll :11 h. I 1 he cxptlSL'J ti'Oll'iL'r "ni:..;t hand -1 he '' ai!'1band tn.)uscr not onh und-.>r
mint." 1 hL form"' Jlltt.:griry h1 11 lntlk' I bush lc:lgliL', .. 10 a phra-.e from d1e d:J) ... "hen
lllH"Ci t v
....
Tht> din11Cr jackt.t with pL'akcd bpd!', likl" taJio.lat prcdccL" ur ... , n
\.hn'ttizl.'s bcucr wirh the drc-..s \\:Ji!\tcn:n. -,incc the ,t .. lo\\Cr point" echo dwc ,I[ the emu
.lhl'' \\ h dw l:tpd d i nncr j.Kkct Glll en her 'n lc of" at .. t dld-'r
Cun't'tl cummrl'btmd 11'itlt
sqf( plf.ate,l dimtu shirt.
rlw rumnh.!rbund\ '-un C' \\eiJ "nh the
Ia pd... rounlil.'d -.hapc. In ortkr w keep du:ah .. "'r ticket:-. .n the
rca'-1). quali1) bme a little pn l .. ct ..
behind their '' hid1 IS ,\Jw the tummcrbund ....
\\urn wi 1 h it' PL'i nri ng uP'' :.lfd
01'igil1<11k the ''ai,tl'a:.u \\a imper:HJ\t:
.. . ....
'' 1rh a dinnt.r jackl!t. Onct. rlut royal twcakcr of rr.1diuun deLtdtd
fL1 t LlS'- 0 11c t)( h1, imo rlw (orm::tl ring. dw
a-. the, \cl\ '' l11ston. '\.1t1tr.1lh. rbt' Prince':- imprimatur brought
' I
ovcrntght ro the ''hire \\ai'lco.tr and black dmner-
j;Kkct n)mbi n:ninn.
Proust tliK1..' that \\,1-; lll"\Cr f.1r .t\\:1\ (rpm
'-
!'impliciry. Tlw JHwdr) ,l(:lll odd-..::r,kwcd \\,listL"o.uur panLrncd
cummerbund is t\) be cn..:our.1ged. 'n long a:- jt'.., limited w tha.
,jngll' lll)lll'l,h Ml(lfl? th:lll OJ1L' ..:ont:f<hlillg :lCl."C '01")
..
into ti1L' t '' ... ) (ormat fragment' iL' J(>rm.ll mto
ks-. llllp\.1fl.li1L piLYt'!'. Ppnhcrmt.,ft:'. 'incc d1r bl.tck tiL'
rcgti11L'Ill" .tlrc:H.h btwdcr' on the prcdicr.Jb!c?. km111ng a bo" uc
and matching \l'-.t l)r ..:t1111111erbund impo:-.L'' on tlw \\L'.H\."f n
CVl'll morL' ..:o111 ri\ cd. look
Hy limiring } our 'lkcrion lf.l on I} dH."C component
prcdomin:mrh b) black. 'ucb .1.:- thL ''li't("Orll cum
nwrh.lllll.c.lrL'" ... ltin.c.x P'-'cker 'q
1
mft>. hil\t"Cthut"Cd thar dH
,
111
gll: dnl h'p ,- d '"l ,11111c\. rem=tlfb a parr of rhc ''hole I J Ll\\ c>\t'r:
"lll:' ll rht (l)llt r.
1
:-;t b<.)\\ riL" ,, r'lrtJ\' n in under rhc dun \\ 1rhout
bel ill' (r:lmcd b) :1 dark ..:ol0r. n .. h l'tH on H"' O\\ n makmg dw
1::"
11\..:k look gift Jt ..Jso dlstnadS from the.cksired fOQit
Jo .tmbr:k-e or as personal badinage
fUr unn tire
The tunalitJes-:apable-ofenn.:hmg thi already dtam30C
equ:d dew of and nchne . such al\ pltttn bottk
.mJ gold lf a pttttn is chnsen.rt sboukl simple two coJQ.r; in whicll
bluck or like a cb.K' and "iUte pnlb dot ora ... Wh1rttUiO
DRl 's r 1\'t:;
TIH \ f.lN
- ---
FORJ\!tAl __ \1\IEJ\FZ TRou
lllilCr Ll\)ll!-iL:f:-. adht'I"C' IIJ dw s,une principle of prt\pOrtiC1Jl and "-11 hng a10 tull 1n.: c..
\\ ith L)Jll' eXCt.'pt in!). a slighd} "ttfcr de..:orntiH:: band t'i.-place ... the rrn.tl lUM: r,
t\\ '- .small l'l1 ib Lnner kg If rhc jacklt'i lnpd facing' .m.: sann the lt.'\Wn. nf thr
side. trim :-.uit. llcJ\\C'\Cr. iJ" thl' .m. ltlllllflld Ill cl
L '-
11nrnm('rb.llld rru:-cd ribct-lcct '"tmtd ltkc.: du:
taiko.lt ll'l)ll "LT. i r' bounm is er l"t rlTcd 1 he I t\'1J t'\ Mairl:' 1 inger Rng\.!1 ... mn\ H.: slwll \\ r
t"llll! ai th :lll JcpiCtiUI I of l !JI..' fll nless I radi tkm j 11 \\ htch b.md lnt mbt: r:"' 11\ tll ... it.:!t
rr:Kk hi' \hJdin\., b' com inLing him that f."l."hJl>ll thm drrs' hL ctdk>d
t"' J .. -:1
FORMAL WHITE-TIE TROUSERS
BLACKlliE TROUSEJ':S
---
------- --------
THE BLACI<-TI E DRESS SI-IIRT
nnd morC" is "hire C\C'ntiH! -.hin "uh wing J. dc.\:rtbed

1 he a:-. rhe un,tarched. n collar ,hin "ith .,n(r iTt1llb and double culT.
, cr nnmhcr ,,trrori.tl conrriburit'll !'rom the .. t,( \V.llcs ...
.
\\ h tle eirlwr f1.ll'l urrl :>1 un doc 10 l hL fl.lur di nncr jacket nll 1dd-.. the" i 11g col
),11"\ htgh polllL" hnnllulllZf' p.tn \\ dl with I hJt u( the lapd
Ltkt> hfn. mp
rwndo\\n l"olbr 'birr.'. ''herlwr
'-
pleawd or marrdb fr"mrs are con,rntctcd "ir h .t
n de gn furndo\\ n collnr dinner !'hin' nh' a)'
rake I and t\\ll or tlm . .:c thL
mnnbl.r dtcLtrcJ b\ the
. ....
must \lf t or m:1de \ er!'ion' ntak"
'
t look htc m:ll.l scienti.'>(S:" it h nne t" j,t 1l
the ht.-nd .md d1e cnlbr's limp.
to rull ml.'r rhe bO\\ tie. ( )riginall}. lfr" ing
Gitlllt.: offering n \l1lnety of dill""..rt:lll height'
Lmd contt1t1r.s dmt ensured its hro:td wingvd
men in 'plendor. L'nftll'lllllatc..:l).
t'JlO.' f.J,hi"m to \\l.'ar it ...

Jtmchtd colbr became homnuenizeL.I IT'Jr bro:Jdl.'r

rhu.-. fixlt-m.ng mosi ofi1-.:. fimcrion and all
mdt\ idual rclint."'menr I i :., 110 \\01 11.:fer that 't:\ 0rnl } l .. a1
bnck. tht. \\ ing colbr\ emn'io.dmed remain' \\t!I"C
pu.-.hc,l lU "U) [(if the l r.m ... tcnt iri\ o
k,u_.,. col1.1dt formal shm \\ 1th a Cmn hutw11 d, l'illrl..'

Bonum right i' <111 r!-x.'1mplc nf.uint
.l pleakd [rum dinner ''it h n '' i11g
cr)ltu a mutt nf a if l u er \\ .1c;
----
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l
THE WELL-PROPORTIONED TURNDOWtl
COL!.AR DINNER 5r41RT AND BLACK BOW TIE
0
FLACIO COLLARS ENDING ON THE
WRO.NG SlOE. OF A !"OFUiiAL BOW
'
0
TIHY WING COI.J...AFUi OVERWHELMED
ev A Bl'lW TIE
I
I
I
I
I
I
DIU_,"
THE:
Tire autht'lltic \Vindsor kuor
the Drtkt's tlH'Il pt'rsmwl St)'k
Thf bt'tWS own bow.
---
THE BLACJ( BO\\TTI E
he scmi-(unnnl bl .. 1ck blm 's tl'\turc the j.Kkcr .... L1pl'l E1ring' a ... ;um
buw for satin a nbbcd or ncbbk \\C'HH' \,1riario11 I:Kings ltc; bmtedl\ OJ
r n J
bnt \\'111g j, J m:H rcr n( pcr-.lmnl \\ hi I..-: llll'"l mea cnngc- .11 vhc? rlmughr ofhn'
ing w kiH)r o"n bo'' ur. 1t' r.lrc to t"l)J11C \\l..'ll -turncd our lLJH '' ho nmnm \ LILk
r.
o( !!l'omctrical ill the Citll',llL'J knl'l i:-- bnrh .. d rram. humJJ1IZII1g dw
L'llSl..'lllblc it lollk il1l'rc: md1\ Jdu:1l ( "l'L the :-l"l:dt)n (ll1 bo'' ric' 111 d1.1ptcr < "\('('I
\\l'.lr.") The bo" \" idrh sh\)tdd ntH bC)l1mi the .. -,JII.lr\ \\ ing'. "lwe:ui Cl'llm .. pcrunc
\)r rhc man-.. t:Kc. I( ;1 \\ 111d-.Pr knell C(Htld he rorrccth .uuJbutcd to the Pukt II
''ould be rhc nnl' empln)ed Jtj, bl"'' 1 niter rhan lhc bulb1u ... f<.,r ll'llj! nt:'
Cl'l:dLtL'd lO him

TI .1 G T I-I E
1\ND FOC}T
b\! 'htX' as a' Ji,nnt:l from nt nwle '' C'.ll' a:- the di nn(r jacket frnm a
LJkt urhl'r llf ''hilL .. L''r hLKk . .'11tdin. the slwc mu"t i111ht1L' the drc. ... s
.. .
tTOLISl:r \\tth n Ct:'rt1111 .:\\\;}Ilk \\hilL' atTonJiug tht> L'IIC\llgh C lllll;>rL l\l help
d.ti1Ct:: lht: lJig}H ,1\\.l\ "-\,Hill:"tillR'S wiriJ a bu\\. \Cl <:lh\<1\'S
, r r .. ,
npp(.uring more like .1 'Iipper than .1 .:-.lnw. thl is rite {ml} W<l} tn ltni!'h
nff furmJicn,(.mbll"
\. \ l''Bge of ccun d rt's'. tlw pump rcmai the .:'l ,It i rem mctl \ [l,J liLm
hl cntl."r t1r,I prt:lf} much :1:- il kl.t tilL ninL'IL'L' lllh. \\.ith ribbld !'ilk b)\\.
tl1l upct-J ,[,pplt the :1' 'lllllL'\\ h.n This
ince 11 h:1 been tlu.: foundation(,ff(.,nn.tl hJl't\\car ,jncl rhc turn pfrhc LCillllf)- 11w
more ... uignt.: tend tu thL' dulled calf,LI ion
'
u\ er its lear her peer
.\ltholll.!h tin.: more Ct'mcmiunal t'r the
'-
t \\ n d.ts,ic we'. tlw p.trcnt lear her It)\\
(lit \)xl0rd tlnl make deb11t on tlw
ulll il 1 hl' carl) 19 \\rll :Jrl(:r r c' ca1i11g
ptunp\ \\'it!t ib plain clt> ... clr crtJpp('d
c;olcs. ,Jtli(.:ltt.:!} bt\L'kd \\.Ii-.L. glt''CIIkL:. lit
this lon11.d I:Kt.: up i.:: l :mJ
dmtctng. '\;( 1trcc bt.':.-pt.Jkc ... hoc's "ilk nn
old wuriJ lurbclcm rard) tuda'
I hl' C:lllC lum,clr dt'llTling dill
nc1 clothes pri\.lrc ocnl-:J()Il'. the more ltkcl) he
i!' to .ld npr era I nlrernal'i' l' :- t} !t.:.' t )f I he
dub t'll'g.mt C'lk'r.l pump :llld \I hen -.ltpp"'r nwtdd!o>
lt:J\ lcmg .. f0nnnl :'1-hol's Thl' Ill(' t
't.r,it11l t ,( tlhlancr .1n: thu"c
maJt Ill .I J.1rJ n.lvet ,Jm .HIIJ embmldt.'rt}d \\It" i1 llltltlt>gr.lm nf I he
\h'.trlr nntt.tJ.., or J (mtil} or dub ( ll'"t 19.!) "J j,Jcal
\\ r.tppmg ttl .til tlw; pnli\h arc L1( '-rti1J bbck 'iiik finl
U\L:l" tht ".tlf t.:llth_,n tL .. Ic nr :1 :.t'>tLd ht,SL' \\ ith
t!Hht.r <1 d ( Clllt ,r ur t:ontr;:tsnng dncklil...e
-- ..
l
Hltcm Jrr$$
udlr Jilk 14$.
1 -I
_').
Dn1 s. 1
THE Milt\
he '' hi tt.:' me'' j:Kkct repre!\eJHed 1 he f1 r:-,t r:td ical change in malt." t:\ enmg "'ear and
rcl:t'h ed Slll'h btU:ld n:lt iorwl th:H it ";ls immediate!} adopted fur rhe of
hdllinp:-: 111t:lllbe1.s. \\' hilc it .1 cmutrm rlw tlw me
jacket \\:1!'1 Ill\[ lO 111:111} those rhar didn't happen t I fL' dmt
oi , \duni.!'.
AmcriL'an m:1lc ripl' l"dr somctl11ng alotlg mure romemional that
1\.'L:lincd the :1ntl '--l>lur o( jacket In IV34. [S,]lllrt' wrned the 111glnmnre of
\\:lrlll - \\C:lthcr intl) a mid.su111111er night' un\ldmg the "hill dmner J:lcket
\\ith L'OIIn1: PrL''L'IHl'd in bod1 'inglc and doubll' brt':I.Sted m,,dd:-, it recei,cd .Kt:.oladc
from hablltll'" c,l cxdw.i' t: C\TI'}'\\ hl'rc.

------
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- -
- - -
______________________ ......__ __ --
l hhc bn,kc the ruh:lr b:11Tier. nthe r rdlo red di 11fh' r s.onn l'l 'llrm f1 r-. 1
gamt.AJ populariq m .t cnlur calbJ ll.s hcrt? i 11 rile nJmpan) o( t.hi!' blond-on
bkmJ ith mcu buck in to\\ n II\ 1\\ \\':lilting to .-. hm\
'
\lft1lldr rnctu -.umanneJ. tht: IlL'\\ \h:l't..' \rd-
CHllW .llldmon!'. to c.lll ... e the I \...,Jic
(,rf,rtc ltj1) \f formcll on rhl' I rench 1\.i\ it:ra bril
ham h pnn r.I}
\\e ,,,11 ue\cr k!H.l\\ \\hcthcr thi'\ blat.er trimmed
(,th," nglrt) ''a'> rn b} the ani'L Uqmrl ... .,mf( tlr an actual
P.1lm IX'.t("h rltJ!t11lte. \\'h.lt an l'Xtr.mrdtnnnh ltsh

Re' cr-.mg
-.;::" . .. \...-
rha.: '' h1b: t''lll .llld uudmglu blue bt,nnm \\ tt' thl' m.xt '"'!!JC.11 !.tt'p in
,,
(.l(t,"lSIOil Cc1JI111g ftlf ,111lj it' cllfClld:lllt alL.L<'
-,prp, .trt.' lC\\ .ll\J far ben\ .1,.'('11 Wl" l't.'IC\ a'llll m iglll bt.: rn sugg,t::-if'
thf' propl r drc"'' .1 ''cddu1g Dr otl moni.d \lilting
\\h 11 .utlrl' ico nprinn.tl h the Cmgr.uu
bung rht "<. n tL.''- m.m 4un: .Jd\ run U11g up fol'
.m p"-..1 illll in :1 "ulid n.n \ 'itut '' httl Jrcss -.hjrr

n.lH Aitd \\ hitl chc(:k til \\hit ... h.tndktrrhief and hl..1ck
-:.tlf "hl h . .: '' J .. mJ "'lllll\ .1 prcr11 t.:tfe .md },.;h l1t.t.
l __
_l __ -
-.
- '
DIU q-..:
In 1 t ll'<h t t 1 from the cl.l .. "od .11.1d tgrn t1 q lat. Jlt"\\ ca .. uul Hll' tr{ .. d
.1JI t:ll-.tled k.t\ tng Jll,lfl) 1111?11 w f111d .1 "-l\ le ,( u(fi ... c at[lfC t ,
11
J J
1
t
1
dJc1r lTt.drbtllt\

1 r
t rl
r!u: t'lllLTgt...'llCL'Of('I'Il\atll'so.;;llflfl 1 t\ t t p r
t.lllt ch.mgt.: 111 husmes .. l:t"lmJn 111 our til1ll' I \.Cl.'pt blue cnlbr IJl r u t
111111
1:! lhl: \\ r
11
CtJII.11 cr.l\JI \\ai,tcom. and bl.'en lhl' ltmlCr:-.llmc < f nllt. L
11
,
1
J ._, i .. , ,
llt.'.l rh o llU mi } l!ar:- \\ 11 h t ht. lCJ\lllt:lt 1t 111 of corpW.Itc d rt. , Ct dv .. t lu g l n I tf
4
(
11" ll\\ 11 c.l!:!U.tl I rid.t} d, hn' rlt 1\\ rl'pl.lc{d t mdi11ounl bu ... 'int " .11 lt. 1\l l h: d.
1
J
\H'l'k percent 1)( \mcric111 pffke \\orkm;;
T HI \-.;
Rel.txing t h 'ct ,q )(ll";J.lt' ..:'\h.k ".ts ttlll .. 'llt.k:d to d i mmtsh tho c btt: J"dr lu\..tl harnLr" th:u
,lf'irClttr.lgcd a t1 1urc Ctllkgiill \\llrkingtmllL)sphell I nltL"rout lf.lppt'.lnngnld f.t,..lm.
1
td "'
lllll \\.lilting t1J pl.tee 111 rhe path (tl.\\ll:tt 'l'l'I1H:d h] e.1 \\ .. 1\-t 111.111 g r
guru.s t';lg('rl} jlltllpPllllll t d1\.'s-. dcm 11 h.md,, ngnn 11:1\ing the l :1 u.ltn:11d \ nl
t.e.tl, the} ueglcc1ed Ln .mal)ze" hcther the \t,l...,teruf the L Ill'\\ duthe-. mJL:h. nud u '-l
qf ir:- 'inllL'" bu Ca'LJ.ll has l:OtnpltcarcJ the II\ c.:\ t r lllt f1 \\ l Ill..
thnught thlm ... chc-" Immune to 1:a.hHm \\ lulc nr-t.: j:unmed \\ltb upLJt ('t ll.tr h1 t<
and (,tsu:Il <::l.1cks. l''xecuti\e-. l...ccp a 'llit and .1 coupll' of nccktH:.., m tht tr ( f h.l: h r
tmpr<.)mptLt .. '\t cnmpaniLs. old l'l:OllOlll} (me.nnng 'lilt' .md tt J
-.t iii Jll,llld.Ht ll') \\it h uld cconolll} dieJl!!- It!) i11g ro juggle J\Hl drc.: "' n t jl \\ ull
lllixing intern:d \\\lrk ''irl1 cilt:IIr lm:I11g \\urk h.1s lc{Ltllnll} men ''ith a!'!inki11g fcdang that th
l)ld ruJt:, li:l\L' bt'Ln dinH' n out. n ith nnthing to put in thL"ir plrKe
. \It h{ rhc in it i:1l e\idcncc i.'> l.1 rgt:l) .l!teccft.,r.tl the drt:.s do\\ n plll'n muH'll
.lppc(11':-. w be si,Kking Thl' tcrh !-C(tl1r meltdll\\11 fl'lll\)\Cd '\(.)lU(' or rht' 111( 11\.lllllll bduud
casu.1l d There i ng i nd iPn 1 h.n dre ... 5.ier dorbe, nrc h.KI. 1111 ' rht
'-' '-
\\ o rk l.h."c
\ \'hiJe (\ nic:- arc nur C1.JI1\ incccl or a true tO\\ JrJ lllnt1..' pc lt-.hcd drc'

orw Lhing j, certain Tht dor-com cr.1Z1.' lll)k nfflikt. a t'l'cker <md J lu .. rt.J tht.
bnrh ,lJld .:-anonall). Th(' l.'ll crufca"u,1l "hl'tih then .. Jf1t.:r
b, (orp()rntc C:l!'ll<ll c111 bL , ic" cJ as a gtl\ \ mo\ t.ment the mag "l h '' '
dl..':-;irc LO lt,uk and feel cnm(orwblc drl\cn .;;qlc Jm: cnnw Dfagc mtld{tmzmg tht:
.-.agt.'l)(!'utKiiOIJ,IJldCt)llllt rt. \\'ithalllC\\ t:hhion\3Cut1Jfllt..1ftll '-". ttJI
cl H hl':-. IIL'"l\\ haltg 11L'XI tl) slliL". t.iPl'!-Sittg othL'r up lr dlm 11 rlw tJC(.l I( n dcmmd" I '
bdil'\ t: t hal Lhc- sit in j .. tll)\\ (I) ... u...-L"ttlllb l' dJt? one l!<o. J df""Jlll In nth r
,, ... 11\ tu he t.ntgh rn wr11 h:Kk till' clock
PREVIOUS PAGE
J.,--amiug how to ll'ear i1 suit
witlzout a fft' i11cnascs thL'
corporal' casual options.
-1 he ch.
1
llcngt.:s po,td b} n (.:buaiLL'HTtlr.ltt! clim.ll(: huuld nut d1"
tr:lG tncn fn)IIJ thl' goal n( becommg more lneJah.: .1buur "h I thtrr
nw.m. Ikcna..c conunnt: tt. .,d dn.:,, f' ,J
iL, fi)r llh>"l ''ell bu. lllC'"t'' making one\ da1h Jr" " nwr d c.m
" 1 1 L t h mul'' (Jnc .. I tn'-'ll md
'l'Jl-;JllH' ,Jll)ll l'l' Jll'i\l cb nnpnt t.Hl 1' L ;::
J prc:o>ent:uion ... !...ilk \\ h1lh mam dt.-dtL.Itl.' thc.:n ... d L' t
-
---
rhr<'ttghtlUt tllt.'lr L IJ1(:l? clt.lthc. :ue mo:-t po\\ crfullh ..lll\'t'rbal rot'!.; of CUI111J1Lillir.t
u
1
.:m \\In ;;houldn'r rhn bect'llll' an ctTtx:rih in one\. snateg}? .\nd \\tth
tht: (.t ... u.ll phcmltnt:'non helpmg Lo lunhcr t'' :til) --rigm.1 fl'lllll men put rmg
uno\\ h.tr rhl.:' rime h.1' ncH'r been nH.wc prupitiow.
In l!nlt mw' arrn\.' rhe thl? illeal orbusinc_-.s .1ppwpriate

,tltlfl.' 'huuiJ be tD indudc (he dl)\\ll (\pl iOJl \\ hL'l her lll:ltChing till" s11lc or 1 he
d1enr '' 1th .1 k ti1rnul oud1t tt..1 mnl..:c him l)r Iter fetl rnun: :lt c:hC l'r utll rl1e
md bmgut.''- h-' cnnnn.mdeer rht! simmiun. c.Pu.11 ..
rhm c chc\H.J L' one more in bu:-inc-. ... mall:\ ar,cnal. The bl :1
tppmpnate t)lt. n( dre:--. .1ncl a\\ a1\l10lw bit ll( 11g_o1k' fnm1 '' l)lk tu wt.:ckend
1 1.1m thmg ttl b'-'l"\\cen
GUIDELI ES FOR BUSINESS-
1\PPROPRI I\TE DRESS
1 he fii.,t 'nck .ntirc dwuld bl prefer their
prpfc siunal klokilJg well gr(1\Hncd l:a-.unl Ll res ... ing i:' Ill) L'XCttSC ltH)king
n 1111pleJ. or 1.111" J'hcd
\\ ht.'n in doubr .h ro the ,lttirc for a IIICcting. 0pt for .1 'uil.
Drc .,. d1..1\\ n \\enri ...,'till nt.'\\ to the (nrpor.ne md :-tillll(lt a-.
profc,\IL'tl.ll ,lfld a the cia sic
lfun,Urt: .tb,\ut an ucl"n ... ton-. lc\cl offormaliq is the safer bet ll}
111g up lltlt do' nu pa\ .l complimcm to) our dit:nt. cohort, l_)r cum pan}. hut} nu
.d\\,1\ .. h.n e dw ('puou of rt:"mo\ mg onr.: or me 'Ire .lrtid,:, of Lbth111g.
Dn.''' rn lme \\lrh hmr "-Upcnor" and more th.w )Our 'ubordiJJaus lk
(.u .Ju] nut rt drc 'l!lto;lldt :1 rdnxed th.tt )'" ' nulnnglr ll't'k like -..)Illl'Pih.' "ho
Glll nn .mrhl'rtt) iigurt?
\\1ilh:h:t" \DU LhOls(' to \\c.:ar w \Htrk make 'llr' the, h,lH.' the

tLrt It\. dt.u \OU louk 111 .t f1tlt: snit glmd nt,Jterr.ll nnd
ht Bm the. be"t qualil) )'Ju c,1n ntFmd 1 1kc om:' cdth ... lllnll t.lothing .111
m \our lianu't;
l
I
lh o;l N'HS
CAlif Al
...
-)Cl
DR.):,J SCi
THe i\lAN
--- ------
-----
Bu!-incss cas.ual t) picalJ) dtm n into muhiple cntLgunec; dtnntmg


ing of lllfl11:1lit'). SUCh :'ts .lLli\ 1..' C:l!\U<II. "POri) ca:;ual, or .snl:liT C:ISU:ll. a_., dw trend 1
known i11 [ngl:tnd. In thr l)f simpltcit} and I ant 10 di,
1
de dw cnt\:r
pri'c it tiLl t:wn up cas11nl and n bu,jnc ., La1\ual The dr
0
, up
rangr.s (rlllll the Jres l,:d d{m n uit m an t:n,cmble of ,lparah: .. fur
111
cJ
ni\)tllh.f the tailured ol 11 IHYktie. \\'ith thu; j.tc.kct driHm option thl.' 1111'1'10111'\
h> l'\li11111Ul1iCalC the- dcgn .. or :1\lthurit) and as lhl' tmdittlmaJ ...
uniflll'lll bnr a \\:1\
:\ d 11 busi 1 H:"'S C!ISIJ!iil l'i l hm rwo-piece ofli.ce an ire rankt11g beJm, rhc:
.. d out Cit in drt's!-lil res!-. httr t' tlw [1f'l.:..'iscd atld :spon. 'hin lunl l nnnnJ) to
\dwt \Vall Street Llr rhc \Vhanon IIUl) hme nni'dr rln.sor1crl b) jttti,mllng the and
neck tit uniform. 1 he ld1:1ki polo .shin unift'lnn into the 111..'\\ (ummun dtc.'\'i dm' n
\ \'hilc cnrp1 mltt' Gl,ual attire '':1s imendcd to ben more comfortnblt nnd 1es-.
aht:l'll<Jti\L' [Ll the ch:tS'\1( Mllt :111d rcgilll(", it "3!"-1 also to COJl\C\ cUl Ullage ofbusJ
nc:-:slikt intcmiDn. But commq tn popular thmking no combination of dre 'pam .md \lun \\til
l'\Cr [in rhc aurhorin .'\c:tk at :11n \\eight that t.lfthe da!!sic bu!'!lne-, l'll"l'lllhlc
r J 1 r
\ \'ith that Ill""' ted. rlwrl? arc man} ":l) make the par4tdigm more C\l:-
uti\t? lot)king and bu,tnc-.slikc. "hich "ill be ,Iddrc.,:.ed lml:r. llo\\t:hr dre' up bu lllt''-!ot
c:1su:tl olrcr-. the h ighcr probnbilit) l,r rcm.1ining buth snnoriallr :md ..:oculi} rdc\Jill m cr the
kmgcr term wh1ch is wh) it i.s L'mph:1sizcd in this chapter.
DRESS-- UP BUSINESS CASU1-\L:
TH.E THIRD v\'ARDROBE
___ L.-f'"orc men,'' cckcnd drc.s!' stepped down ton pair,,{ .md jc.ms. 1L1 gu) \\ tJfc
out st he would usuolhr step l'lll in wh:tt used robe tt:rmcd "taJl.,red port. \h.'CU'- 1 (
C b J I
hL didn't dono "1'01T jacket .Imlllcckric, he m:u:lll}' shl''" L'd up in rhrcc outfit c" mpn. L'd
ora 'f"PITCLJUt or '-WC.arcr \\ irh h;lt"llWllizing \.11\: ' p:tlll\ ,llki OPL'Il 'Pltrt 'hin ur
bu!\i tlt'SS Gt."u::U ,, retllr upda1cd vlr.siorl t'( 1 har 'l)lllt'\\ h:1r old mix-and march
rormula. with the IJIIip l)fitKrC':I!"\l'd \.'(llllflU"I and e.xpre,:-itm.
-ri>d:n. dPst:t" ,tl "it h ft"lr t bt \H!>rkd.n .md lob dotht.'
for the \\cckL:1d In pulliug tiom thl' pinstripe: Jlt)r the jean-. :-1de nf the cln,t'r dre'>-, up
c:tsunl ;1 dre,,rng qvle and a wHrdrobc th.tt bib 'onll'\\ lk'l'l? Ill one that
- d 1
1 1
"'th Hn .. quuin '"eaten; Jnd
:-;pJtly ... 1111..1 trou ... ' t:
I
'"" - . -1 ' , par.u .. , re-.,mn!., 'tnt! .. 1 .. 111'
-.hin-.

tr) ing LG .lY'-cmb e outflt, 1n.1llllll1lll.W .. 1ca c c ...


I
J 1 1 I llrll'lltc?d '' (lrk erwironmcnL
men nc:\ cr l:tlt to earn 111 allt.'SC Lbl\ c) :->Lilt
--
-----------
--- ----
--------

LOR1 TG U.P ):YOUR DRESS- U I)
BL- NESS ROBE
Up bu"illt''' l."a,ual forrC' .I lll:tll to ("(lOrd j 11:11 L' tailPrl'd l'fl 'CmbJc, lll:tdt" rrom d j 1--
fertll tilbno fhe c.L-.it.:'t: to pull her unm:Hdhd ''-'p:u:nc.:-; i:-- the mellium of
colur \good ntk of thumb" hen lummnizinl;! is to keep two in
rhc >.;1me t"l..ll L)f CHnil): <1pp nJ:,,-h :-;impliCit'' tht.. melding and t l.'-tW I h ' rdds a murc
(Cllltt mp 'lrl'lq 1magc J or example. p.tiring thi:-- nn' )' Ctlrduro) sp,Jrt cuar :md n:l\ y k11it
;I more IUlldern mo0d th:m t.tking rhc ..;;lllll.' blue j:.Kkcl and wcaring.1 color
,hjn (nghr) \\ tth ir' gr:n ng I."OilCt:p[ Olll' (un her.\\ caring L';l(h piClT j ll a di
h.m.tltn tt.md, t,, achie\ e a more traditional mn,Jl.l, .1s Hlll (,In 'il't' from 1 his beige
.
pead1 knit Pl'll) . md d.1rk bn''' n -.l.lC'k l'll.,t:mbk (Jar .
\nu \\Jnt to .lCLCk:tcnc EbhiPn rempo. kctping all three pieces in the same
LL "-'r packs up the p.h:L' b) nL"quinng a prcdnmin:111rlr bbc-k
.\flm: moJrrn.
l.ess modern.
,_(1

Bt'S1l'H5
CAst .. u
Dnr ... 1
nJ r !\I 1
I
I
J
-
tht'llt..,el'c' hend ,., ltmt in nne cuk11 n,>, unl} rcdu\.ed marg
111
t1f
'-'1'1'01', it unil(irttlt'd them in a kiud or Sll"t.':tlllii!Jed C'tJOI. Acce" ori.dng .! "tWl In .1 mun \t11fll:d
1111bll\.'!" ir" it h sll'cknc"' and nmdcrml): a" C\ ide need b} charcoal md.mgc of
gr:1} tunknt-ck l"\n gr.J) tl.11111d. \\ in tlw nt:\\ millennium 1S that men hJ\L'
k.tnwd he''' tp embr.Ict lhcir exi,ting \\:11'\.lrohl.' ns
\ lol1kiug oudla rdiLs lHl :1 nn41in off{,rmaht) w Ct1me\ J
pri llll' l'oi 11 L ot-LO tKcrn " lwn 11g d, H\ 11 I Lilli form or robe:-. cf am hnrit} itgw c" ru.
ju\.lg( -.. bm en(()rC.t.:llll:'nt (1r dcrm nre u::-ual1) m <.brk. ">olid Ct)lor-, na\' or hlac.k
ume-. 1111:\l'll \\ith \\llit .. . "liits .trc- 11picall) b) 'hurs
ft.;:\ nh :m \lllld Ll,l,, illi!Jck and \\ lme \hb<."'llgh t"')"
\..t1JI'il .. ler hint!. ... l11d lllllst nt all co!ur comhlllnt1un illch lugh ct)ntl.lSI
llDL lbt 1 (!J' l:'n 1:1cial Ct
.

. \" di::-:rus. a man., C\ unpfc:\tnll and
''lllle sri II rhe main cnmpru for
,,dec! itJll or clothing (OJ or, :md I he1r Idea) Cl t lrd liLt
ti1 111. EH'li tbuugi1 hued h.1nnon1e\ happen t\1
ht in' that i. no tC1r the light

skinned ro up mnmled 111 a C'JCt'piR'm
nr dark color:-. Likt?'\ lf}"ir1g tn :1 lc
mPil h1l oiTice iJnJg\. 1" no tn -,nf:n nl'rgc .1
in .1 tuned .Ipp.tnl
...
<.. )n the urchitcl'tural side. JU'>t as
can dimrm'ih -hnrtt.:r
lll\:'!1, darhr nnuscr-. \\'ill mike 1rt npp<.-.tr
In en"h ing n n1rpor;uc Gl 'nk tlf drc '
that bnt h tl:urL"r' and prllje:ch .. 'nu
must nPt '-tra' roo far fl\ )Ill tlm .. e mdn idu.u gUide

J' 1 h:u dt( t:m .. nuc cnJ....1r :.t V\t'f :tlH.li hL:C
LEFT
J Icn$/ww lt1}trsfriotr a 5U(LT5gii/
rnmmctwu bctwcnl,l bn1nu ;portja1kLt
11.11d ramd umfnlt'L"k ttsinggolllhutdluTinmd
skiu ltllre/p detcrm;nr rbr idrul
...
tWitlrtllt t!{col1f1'tJJt to .lwn bc:low.
OPPOStTE.
Ki:('jJitlg rl1e (t'l"r sclrt'mr
rcztdrt'ts tip the cJ;semble's anJ in ellis CU.St"..
tltt suits modrrnitr.


ntr lN
r
I
----
P I.ECI NG TOGETI-IER Tt-I E
ORE - Ul
1
BU ., fNE S-CA UAL
\t\1 A RD I' 0 BE
lw up c!l ... ual "nrJrohc .trnund l\\\
thE' 1 hrt'L' piere and dw nornie ,uiL <:nufir mn .. t men ha\(. )t;
encl! d1n\ 11 a sui\ dt:llltt'Hilling up 01 sport t;mn \\ith tlw dar! Lulurcd "'PL'rt
ith"kt":t \\ Oftl \\it" cl (ttl 1111d ll or ,-... ,llatvd knit rl :'llld 3 pai I Of ,JJt"k'
1\n::lWt' it\."\')\ rhtlarge;;t pt,nion c,( tl1c bPd). jJcker 1 he culor dnx-ttonti.Jrthl'
l>l 1 he team. \ .; co.11' nrc apprL1primc in nH.Hit c.1sual bu,mc ;-s 'l rting' n htgl quJitf}
l
I
"ell jackt!t 1 cntiLal lf) tht.: drt' up
Cl'iUal \\Jrdrolx 'tnn \\llh .1 l< xnurd
dark oliJ or ubtir pan:crned splln (OJ.t llli..Hlt
u f l pO\\ L'f llCUl raJ ,f1Jdt'' of llJ\ }
lbrl bnJ'' 11, or raupc ( ; m1mkk1 ung" ,m;
tiJI J f<.1r muJ 'H .tnng ... "t 1 'nd
'' ith at the bcgnmmg
thl spl.ln L'tl::tr fiHKiioning J'i dw.
c::tp:-;u]c col1x t":Imil) ccmcrpiccl' 1>.urrnund Jl
'' i 1 h rd:ncd J oiJm, ing the gmddu1r
o( (t..)Qrdin:u n' o of the gJrm<:m '
l:n lmrmon iz ino rhe ux.,u.-.er \\it h 1 he j.lcku 1 hr
.
btHlOll.:- or JlltU '}tOn often \.""011}(' Ill 3
complemem:.u1 nmn-ast s.hndt.. -.o its J 1:m
t'llt"-'' th:u rn.ms('r: chtht'll 111 tht: .um.' llln.tln

"ill match rhe prl'lT} \\ dl \\ ith t lw i.:lckct
and rrPtbi?r in a "itmbr hul' 1hc ... hin G.tn
be in or: loth. it ..
h} } Llllr o" n l:t''HllJ
I( the :-hirt muhi olur't.'J.
c,
11
c ,}(its ,::, )lllfS -.lmt11d c_cho tb.n ut" dw IKkci
and 1 rPmet: L)n!,"' \\.n to hoot up u.;u.tl
ro cmplO\ a p:111ern on p.-Hll: n1 l
,, l1i -h with .1 ri.:-k hut c.m prHducc..
h.mJ!-, )Jilt' dt' idcnd ... _
ln\.: mg 'lh.h .m uuual \..1p,ult '' .trdrubL ,t.ll't "it h .111lltbnlid.
) II p.utt rtl:d [\Hl J.1L."k{'[ Ill .l prcdomin.llll :-h.tde. \\ ith l.lll cl' It' 'L'I..l)lli.Ltq
( ,f, r \11\:r gr.t\ ... uch 4L' rh.m.:oal Jlannd truthl'r-. .. 1 gr.l}
j ' .,fn.: h kmt .,(lin .mJ perh.tp' a and t.lll panerned "'" c:-n -.pon 'hin
"til \\Jnt t 'PI,ltt the t.m L.,f the jacket\ color 'dwmc \pair llt-Cm n ("O\ en t n'll'l'r'
tn i r m d I mg roll.trtd knu ,Jllrt ''mdd imr,khKc ir '\.'till gr.1) (nJ,,r
1 ul \JJ 1 \ \\L'atl:f\t;'t 111 ch:trco.d gr.t\ or i1 in bru\\ 11. :.111d) ou'n: "ell \.hm 11
.. .. .
thl: dr," up ca u..tl nJad \\J thom bcmg fi.,r ed l\) nmke n bl.17er pit 'll'P
t:u .1 .. od ll.r' JJL"kcr d rn PUL ii 1' tlw inc'' {.,-the n r dot 1 h le

hrt t...d rl.t\\ hf.tzcr .tnd tn . .tll"icr loordillntiClll \\ould be high t'1ll dw list '\.l'\.1
n gin t lim\ .1 I\'"'\ .. r.trch fl'll\lll1 m .._,.(the bl.""r lnok pcrhnp' a p<ll tt:ml.'d nr ll'd d11rk
IUl p U t (CJ lt that CtluJd be pmn:J \\ nh l hl' bl.!ll."r\ 11:1\} .md gr;l} :Kl"t'""'rlf..'' ltkc I ht" \-11111rh:l
uaun ( )nt.: .llt.t,;rnarl\e h .l thl' da -.ac 'P ,n coat" ould he '\.!r'iLlll l'r tilL. ,ackct ,
lak thl: FKklf. \\lndl L.lll multu.bk to :lL"COillllhllhHc .1 sptYtl'lllll
dl \ 1 lltL'rtl. tlh.' .1 ... d11, modcn1 a sLmbbgc uf d.trk huc"i
A slurr ;acklt am be JrcrscJ up or dowH.
., I' .,
_ ... ,'
Rt $1Nf.
CA."I A
DRC" '
1111 \I '
''''-JICI \-.II,, .111Jtlltl I''' \\CI(ll '.llllltlll II'\
!till,..! ''U'\1 \ \\1111 ltq'l pttlllt' till' I
Cmdlgiiii.Jiwll )'lt"kc1 'll't'ollt'l'
an \1',1)' fLl drtS' up rht
dnsr. dl,,l'll /,,t,k
II J I
---------

1rh dictating dt!(Ortllll. th! spPT C\1:1r mu.'t bt!Cl1111C mtrc Lhan
.t \l.''"\.luf nulc rc-,ptn4tbilit} Jt I wed' to (Ombi m '" c0mlt'n "ith .. !'ltkc protu
,ol \\ hlrt'J' 'ou updJtl the rradino11.11 'uit painng ir '' 11 h n or r try
mg m rhosc -.rrairjacker. ... fro111 the or
l"rtttrpri'c pa.ddcLt torm.tlity belie" tl'>da) \ mudLrn
'cr a tile and t'Ollh:'mpr:waq jnlkct I( the T hrce bunlln. si nglc-brc:Jstcd
mudd '' i[h cJft n1lkd hghd) p.1ddeLI <llld notch lnpd::. its <;o(t
undcrpm11i11g' .md threl.' button fi'Onr. it c1n be'' 1l1'n in bunnn one
'
butt\.,nt..-d .u the\\ at l. dt'lll\? up" nh it\ t"o uppi'J' bulln11:-. or lct-r open. like a cnrdigan .:-\\carer
"1rh nwn.' \\ hilc mo .. t llll'll l]Uic:k w rcmtn c rhli r jacJ...l!t" upun
uno thtufftcc rhi dc.mdld .. c garment might them t<.l rhcmun.
\nd th(' ..,;mtou:- (ard1gan .,,,catL"r. the comourcd :-p0tT can be \\tlrn
IIKrcmcnt&llh lllflgcr. \\ hen mared '' i11l .1 'aricq ofloug kn i r'. :b Lll nkne(b or
11 kt'\ l' ll.'ngth .. drop lo" er 1111 rill \\l'i,t. Thi:-; .1dditinnal :-lee\ c length I me' up
l:wtt'l'r \\ nh rht..' jackt:r'-. kngr h .. md wgct her t hq pr01111 ten nwrt' rllaxcd bt'd) l.mgu.1gc
\\ 1uh. the older man tu f:tH)r dw d.l''ic t\h' bunf'll rc IIC\\ l!r three buttorJ
Jackt>l mudd (,1ltl1mglt the j.Kkct pr<.'datt:d it, either p..:dccd)
.1hk I Llouble brea.,rcd )Jt:ket
.tl'-ll m opUl111 . drhough. bccm.;c- Jl
1'- 'k b\.nt-r hntnmcd up. it tcn'-h
li..IU\<.' .1 pt.' "tlm:.
\\ htk Jll JclCket ITilldd:t can
be 'n lr hi\ \' ,,m ro (\.m\l'\ a mon.
I
ra u.1l bu uw 1n.mncr. at\
Jt,m r rh.m " I"Wt \JilC \h:,u-s
rh.u dt,ungm .. he." both the appard
.m 1 rh" mJn
The llll'' SI'Drl cod I nuds to
combmt su e:attrW:t ..

witlJ brmnGUkc J'rotocol.
'
Dll t t. I '\ c
l HI \-I 1\
UNf-f lNG I NG TIZADITION:
DRESSING 00\\! N THE SUIT
_, s :-.man scr h.t" lwen :"'puning suit!i '' uhout rk. hw man} )t"_;u-... .1 .. \\L. nlhtnc both
C,H'\ l ;rnru J,trl. .. 1\om 11'1' }llcquditH' l 'na"'''" 1:u:h r (opJ''"IIc) .il-qurttmg
t .. '' i1 h aplnmh "-tuch :t '{1guL" h.HJ pn.'\Jl1usl} !wen a,nrt,wd w rhc 111'11
arena (I( or 'l't'ri,Hor hl'i\\C\L'r. oncr lt.1Ifnn (.,n,rgto
\rnu111i fJ\.>111 ib unbLndi11g bDx-nl n hltt'ines ... in the
tt '' ith11ut .1 de b(.)th :t lugio:nl :J thJ
\ \'hi the 11111,:rnet im gn''' up not ha' i ng l\.J \\ Hlll t.o \\ ork 111 ''-''
'\.'1kc.s and jem1s HKkcd in ,!Jjn.,. and tku fit true w mnn} ungtr men ha\c
rcdb(O\ l he sui r. The \\ell ' l.'lll sui 1 slill hn, ,.x rbdirional men can nv r aJil.ud
to htJc blhind tlw "lilt- rh<.'\ nc...:d ru n:itl\t''rll il .
.
arc m:m} Ill'\\ '' <l}' to\\ c-:1 r .. u i 1 h d.I). it h:b undergone :1 makl'('\ buth
and consrructil1n. lnden 1 t...:d 1110log) h:1' prx!un:d Iabrie" and llll)f't.' .. upplt" dun
'' nu1J h:n!! been bdic' cd unl) .1 d(c.ldl .1g\l
\\ rrh cl COJl'ti"UOtOil Wing
lighter p.tddmg and thinnl'r intt.n:1cmg'
furmt..:rl} hor :md rca rkt h c d t.td,l (,j ru1iug
:nnhorin drm11loadcd it ... di into rhe

ulrimar(' !'tufT\\ ear.
Lc:Irninc-! ht l\\ tu \\ .a -.un \\ n huur
...
a t i\.: affords 1 he bLI'iinc lliW more
l)pponunirr ro hi. r.111gl \lfo . .,rp 'mtt."
c:bmU optiLm;-; . \c(C...'-'uri.zing. the '' 1th
'met h 't her than ir"' n1-.rum:u'\ fnre lt:.ld'
..
it :ma) f"ro111 it!' roml'i. hLmcHr lmbmcing
-.uC"h :-.f) lei:- not abow tlu.: \\.1\
men c d re:-,t..'d in r hl' p.;:Jl\1 It .1bnw np n
up "hokes tor the" ,,111 dr'-'' in
d lt' rm Lll\?.
.............--------
LEFT
Heres Cm1' Gra11r nn-rching tlzr-. sa rio rial bt1undar1tL
OPPOSITE
Hou1itr attd daugllto}arqudiur iti rslaud.fim".
Hfa.k Cci$}1111fl't' tlll'lft'lh'Ck
black a mlwlwt' pl,uli $It 11

raH, Lmtrcn
Let me the backd1op classiC gray bultneas
swt to hdp illustrate some of the more pracnced aasual tech
mqucs. Without the dosed shin collar and necktie
glamour to highlight the face atld 611 up the \uid under the
chta the must still frame the tce-
\\1thout disna:tingfium it 111e button-down collar accortt-
such a mission. of bo" tts &stened .. c:lown
pomb help 1t to stand Up around the neck When
worn under a racket. ItS m placf' snappy
dan up the face more than other sporr bin collars.
l.ayerii1g a dark T-sbirt t.tndemeath adds vaswal intemt
whiJe helping 611 tn the space left bj the open roHar.
\s a nile. dosing a collar cmates a
.mage bcc;se rts relative neatric."Ss hdps tHe face to
;appear more iauporram: (see ptge Ul2) eamp,.st)ie tollm
should be a\'Oided af the idea is tOr the shirt alllar to .afd
ja<\efsopen

neck. leaving the .thtuat uncovered aod the wearer
laxiking dLShev.ded.
Lt1ce\\i5C' a knit Jldrt buttnned at the neck imari
abl) a tidiery less .iisuaalool However.. rs soft knit
colbr can be easil) the jackets sturdier
collar rt ends up gcthllg tm;:ded oot of
and &o;ng down thr neck en-fins the face praonce This
can be awidedb, rnattng a JPOtl awt With only diose 1mit
!httts Rlillfewith m&sraua..eone1*"-sclf--:eo0at.
which SitS on.thr neck mudt h'h awown sport-shin
... me dt.rted mod: tunJt
knitcoiLmliRe
tbJMt:hy Oftfw ...
eltt:attJ N of

a .a .-Jld&eti.
..... 'Vt t;
........ -.
D.RfS.SI'CI
TPl F i\1 .\
I
In lhl' ru ... h Ill expand th .... ... nnonnllmundanl' ( r ihl" "ttll Ct"rnun tr Pl
pled upun h w mstancc. t I"} mg to mnl ... ..: a \Ull j.td ct double J'- J -..pun 1:1. -krt ull} It \t"-1;. ",
11
\\ tth nLither \uir n)m' tend to rl't.un thetr probh' 'u1ut: of their fabnc e;.nu)( flh ur
[Kl'!'l .md rhttr tlattt r. poli:-hed buuon' lltl cxrc:ptiun-. to 1 hrs ntk \Hmld be tht ctt ...... I ctttttlll
g.tbn rd lne or the htrgl.!r-dun micro scale t: !1\UI\ J.Klt: t p.trticulLtrl\ 1 ( .lppnint tad\\ uh .. porn..: r
hnrn 'it) lc and p.ucb t) pt pocb:t!i
()pmt lW tlappcd p.udl [llXh.: t'- c.m .tbet .1 \ Jspt.r...IHt"ll"' ti u
'' i 11 t er -.:tilt of cordun ') llt' 1\\ \H"'uld .:&1'\o pnJb.1bl) rl11.: cut 1 Ji.,. \\ c .1nng .1 LtU1\ t.:ruh t:
,jngiL" (II((\\ ith culT linl...". :--pt)rtmg unl) trtp h:tll (lc'll U'iualh u1c.b up f.tlling, 111
bn t h sl') :111\1 "il ir.t t ion.
l'atclz undJ1ap pi1rkcts permrt
1his catt4m smt jad:n ra assume
tlw CLlmposure sporr coat.
DRE -DO
bile a dark spott jacket can make an} man look more professiomd
bustn\: auual remoH5 the protective wrapping of such taiJored refuge to reveal
neath Built on the fOundation of the $pOrt shirt-and-trouser ;(ajC
m dressiness from.a h{!.tb-qu:dity or sport shirt atop dark wooJ trousers to
'"ell pressed khakis or fean below a Ane gauge. long ... sleeve. cut-and sewn knit:sl'ltC
h.>ng as fabrics and pattems are up014 arriving :tt a
should not test the coordinating skills of the avernge fashion-pressed male-
Taking a page out of the t\\--o .. suit' story. the le$s contrast gc!nerated by.
tound abo"e and below the waistline. the dressier and more elongating the effuct. ltt ge ..
dark rolors worn under- the chin tilt the shirt-slack scheme toward the dresstet ide of
L41Sual spectrum Just as most shin--and-trouser cootditiations acquire an increased ..
when anchored b) a deeper-toned bottom.. sequestering darker colors on the lower half
body tends to produce a raUer. sltntmcr outbne
\\ ithout a j:tdcet the top layer. the shirt takes
the hrrt component- to c01111ttahd authority. it should be preemb:l} c:trt
either one pit-ce or with a collar- band. These twa construetiotts help the ool1ar to
around the neck, better presenting the face.
Ideally. thtdte&-do\\n business-casual shin should haw long lcteves,sincee\'CA
up lt."C\'es canvey a more profussionaJ look than half leeves. lf:tavore.d. shor-t smcs rhar-
ro just above the elbow g.vc a more dignihed -vers-.o
the of Windsot: plF 76). Although the) till c;ommUrtkaJe an attitt.uk <lfleiSUte
knit! become lligbtly more business-appropriate when-paired-with dress tt01tsfl'S.
The long-sleeve. collared knit pullover ha.., rcce.ml.y beCOJne .,..-.C!-
rne to the conventional woven sport:shirt.
neck. mock tuttle: or rollued mudef can lend w ca&ttr.al the
sophistication depends on the fabax and. &msW.
types. UoJn dms to feat1B; tP khkis. Like-itt -wo m
shtrt houtd Ill',.. and
One way to rnject mdiWdsabty mto the. & is 1:0
and tilt the must it to
or stnptd ._,fc;{ .olhl ii'M: *115
the shin a paftftiUtt ihe soJ14 bdttoa. -
li
While ttxtua:


-
flh{L .... tJ of ... ,,plu,rKah:..-d In \\inter. tlni 'bed knit.' or n nd} hru,hcd ,, 1)\ (jill
'' erh \.'"Wd'- ur !l.mnel p.1nr ... t 'ottl'Ht 1 .111 t.:'\cdlent natur.tl l:tbri(" (l>f trou.;ers. blll n
\ 111 t:\ J nmre L.bU.1I Jrnrudc dun 'H'l,J Jn tht: 'pring .md summtr. litH.'ll HI)USer' crm bL"
ttl Lht ma\ . n
1
art of heir i:- in tht"ir \\ rink!i11g lo\\ n

l u..,nw"' lx"Hll\111" "hnuld be pre:-. ed ('fl p w c'\uJl' .. .. m
1 he p.tncnwd \H\\cn rop hl'lttOm an:- bL"drock l)f rh..:- dv\\ 11
.. -. uutfh tntn.ldth .. .mother cr ing lnuk. The th:cklii1L' o( l he
f ,h, rt um from tllh.l....-r a sp, lrt :--It l"nil.1r cw <tdd :1 subtle tuu..:h ()I. i nd j, idunl i q.
I nr..:rmg .1 \ t'f cudig.ln \l.''l nn Jth.)tltl'l' ttL"hni"'lllt:. Repenting a col,lr
irum t hL' .:hll t , p.n te1 n " lHlld bl.' rhe m<l!"l d i '' :t} 10 i (" 1 1 hi rd brc r i 111 i' d1L' '' hole.
\\lui"' "lum.uJ,... 11L'Cd n,, dr-.,tppenr bentmh t{w a image. In} c'r eatl'r-: 111:1}
h lt:ft umu lcJ
h 1111. nrtLlneJ. t ille undcn .1lued
hur tn the I
tsh ' (.btul '' Jrdrolk' "ouJd bl.' dw
J.' <'tortlw 11\.:Ck&:'f'c:nf lr :-ub ltinnc
n lut. under .1 !-tut t.:Jcket Pr pt111 co.H.
1hc most humdrum o(
pH.:Ct' mto .tn cn,tmblt: of con:;idcrabll'
dn \\ ll h lc.s!\ pracnct and ... kdl rcqtu
ttl til..' .t brt\\ ut tbt: fi:llded 1 n ._t
h1\lr m h.111d knL't a 'P lt nf llair rn
dtt un.ltlt'fh.1t.d tUrning thl typi
\.II ltu k Jrt.'' :\ bu ... uiL>< - Ll'-UJI outfit
uuu '-pt.cul .md de\.Htng a
1mp
1
t htrt .md ('ILJttf1 uno .tn
mbll' uf 'urpn .. ing 'l) li hnt. ..
OPPOSITE RICHT
Drt'JS(J down business (t1mal
c,m look
I
I
I
,-..
- ,
lhstNE
c t\.)1 ,\
PRJ). J
I H J 1\J \
Rl ZING -rJ-lE - DO\i\1
13USINE S-CASUAL OUTFIT
It h sP h:\\ tu hdp com L') &.J Jrt:-.,ed up bcanng tach uccl\.--..;.,un bntm
th:u llllllh II ILl I\' 1111pnn ant. neC.lll!oit.' or l he beltl'd \\ ,1isdme'" \ l'iibdin rdatmg ft Ill ( JihL'f IlldPJ
d, 11. t.J 1 t L'Xllli'l' l<
1
dw I{ 'Ol" ear bdc>\\ i llllllCl''iLl tch :.lL'h the udlr ... l'\ L'l :til hnnnum 1
1
1 t.:
" 1:-.c\ wing 0111.:\ hair Wilt i 11 tl H' d ll>icl' em pro!TI(lt"" the u1u 'it.' ( '" .t: o d nh
r,)ll 111 'ic'' L?r t&J tin: conlmuntcal!un' remer. Jlj, t:Kt rulcrawag
h,Jirltllur :u tlw \\:ll1-1tlint!and rhL fuut i:-..mOihc?r h1ghh. rt:,( -.trat.l'trn
J
I brcm 11 Je.nhcr bL'It.., a11d hnm n 'iliC'dL 'hoe" r;we l11e Ll.\lc leH::I tf.tn\ "lH
fn lor rhl.' :md o1hcr clnhing nfictt'ltl:ldo:'\ nu '>Jgnafit:-. ont,
dun .1 pa1r ofbro\\ n -..uedc \ rorn \\ Hh JC'tlllS or :::1 "llJl. 'PL'n "'ilun or ptln J:1d.(t till"' ft. r
lllt'f !11hLlJ or \\'ind't)J'd&.)llJ bCC0Jil(' J '\lOll of chic
,
bl.tt:k .:liJigator bdt \\ith a p:11r o(black ._}jp 1111p0-it' J lll"'-'l (
"'} IL" p:1nicularl) i( rite hair lwppcn'\ tO 111 dark acct)rd llo\\t.'\cr uule-. .. 1h\;: ,,uttit
a S!Tong bind: morir (:lltt1.,ometimt'- d<\\\11
lc.nhtr ilrc bttL&..T kep1 111 the wn rnwr. bro'' n rn r.mneJ -s d
die k:uher. '1111plt. pin liz:t1\.l. \\c.lring l1..lp qLmliq 11}
rhing .,, lll'll prcJxirrJrt}
rhc t.'Xct?pt iu11 r \) t p rc ... pt i( m '' ot dd bl rlm:-.e men t n ing w a lllllfl.;' dn\\ n
tO\\il black :md \\ould not be rhc dll.llCt'' t l appomt
hi, chino . tlw ion an) I} h.:' be '-\\ :uhcd in lower-ri't'. 11m fnmrt.d kh.Ilt" bl.Kl..
lc>athl'r rc,onatc!> a llllll'l' nwdcrni,t mamra rhan brm\ n
should complcmcnr rhc l utfn a.' a" lmle and drt: ' du\\ n bw;J
lt)a..H\H'nr nn exception A m .. m ... :-hoes h1s hl.lt.' llllJfC th.m .un
odlL'r ite-m ... ,( dothmg. and llo_lthing more pl rl) nn 3 11Lln\
st} lc th:111 or broken dn\\n Tit ..
r
I
'IHl ( o( l''ll1l"'\ ,hoc' bro:1dca-;b hm' ) ou mnn.1gc dca.ul"' t."'lle
cia requiring muimen.nKt'
The tl.h.1iti1Jilal d1:-rinaion bcnh'Cil dr('"'" .md
u:-ed h) bl rhar the fnnn,>r 1.1 t.:d Up. \\ htlt
the I:Htt.'r:-lipptd nu.lod.l) . .. ... t
.. nrl?" ing tip or cap Hk' mlmJ\\ n '' uh J lug
Chunkier ., "hangc dtt wnc
A dn:ss,iowiJ tr.rsionou a
drc.sml up cf,1Sstt.

tJf .m nudlr frLHll dft.'.' ... up w d1"'""
do\\ n ho\\ dn: '"' dtl
..
uppL'r :-brx."'... dt: ... tgn tf It C.Jllllt'H lx-
pt'lhhL-J hkc fini ... ht" nr ucdc. 11 t:JIJ, 111tn th\. molt' c.t!>tl!ll .llC!!nn (an
t\.m of LllUt"'l' bting rcn!r ... e c.tl f",.km '' 11 h k;H her "ule ... )
\' tlw ... h k' gci." more !'Ub .... r.mn.tl '0 'hould ... ck rlw Lhirlcr rht? snck. the m,lft.'
If' mrcnmm fht. thin blaLk or nm'\ dn: ... , \ariCt) h.l\ c 110 pi.Kt' ide- l.u-gcr propnrtillnl'd
Ltkl' drc ... s ho ... cn:-ual hu'e mu ... t be kmg to rm c-r bare skm "hen llflC. leg :uc
.:rP In gezwrJL -.hould be in the )I, mil? .1s llw tt\lllscc \ lnlrkolor pat u,'rnt:d socb Glll
en her p.trmen' uh l he m.>tbt."r .md lux tnne "it h .1 :!btl\ c l he-''
D -- I N G F 0 R T I-I E J 0 B I NT E R VI E vV
1b intcn IL'\\ "ln not penn it n great deal Cll" timL' lll crrare the right impre..,.,iull l'cnplc rend
tn "1/C }OU up in the fir..,t thirl) "L'Ctmd"'. "hkh r:m inllucnL"c ho'' hq lll imcr:Kl '' nh
ou In the pt'nCL'' uf gJtht.>rmg the intervil'W<'r o.>n.:-:6l)U,Jy and
JUdgments on } \.lUr ,isual and 'l'rbal cuc'i. The com pel I i 1 h )11\ crbal indka
t )J"' art.'\ nur dur hl-" allcl c \ t:rall
- '
housmg uht. righ1 "Jut hcs .l job 111 ten icw h:h a h' :l) ' d3ulll i ng. h<l\\ i ng up
appmpnatdr h.h ht.>L"nmc (,en nm&\' t'f :1 'Iince corpl1f;Ht' drc,, ClHI
rmm. to bt' in flux .. \.s husnk-; mrirr...' llCJ\\ allu''" a hro.tder nf pcr.:>nnal c.:xprt:s:-1un. it
lll\ ILL'' 111 m. mJrgin for t'rrnr. The c111didatt' \\ ho o;hm\:- ur, "caring right 11M}
.. ... v
g.nn .1 '"' nnpl'tlt th .1d\ .un.1gc
\n} .lpplicJrJr for .1 job imrn b}
Cm1iliurizing \\ irh the C< m
...
pan 'hu me.' it compem i!:m ,rnd t "10ll.t} Ill\ igating .1 pro,pc(ti\ e cmplu) cr
\\ orkpiJ.:\: 111C<11llllg u-c.. dre-.f\ c.udc shlmld .tlso be p.-lrl or the prl'l i lll111:1ru.:<...
irt 'mg '' dl .md m.1kmg ._t pn.:'t"'lllati m ) ou \\ .mL ) nur choKe oF d<'l hl's w 1 n .., .. "tth
th pr 'pt'L'U\\.' org.ttnl .. culturf'. \lrlmugh it al\\ !J}' ro err uu tht:
JdL rf.t LXc..utJ\t:" happen LO be p.-triiJILO nnd turtlencL'ks. ,Jhm ing !Lp Ill .1 thnx
<>uu Jlh..:l up
1
\\\'ould 111H Lv pnttiJJg}lntrh q foot fnnL1rd.
\ppmprtat"L" llltt' nIt'\\ . a tire \Cill.h thl.'! mcssngt: t h;tt It ere j._ <lit a,,plic.lltl '' ho dtd Ius
hornt \(irk l hmk .1bout rhc\\AI\ tl1c on 11llt.'nte\\11lg \'Oum:l) 11) t., l'hjuthrl) "t.'l'
\ ntr '1(thr dll' l'"-'" uf a \\hal \l)ur clothe!' lllJ\ nnnowKc \ott
I \.,. .f
<\u"l t tht m.ttl tn ing rn sh11n1m up d1l' c.trCL'f pl de \YHhin his CXI!o.ting L' llnp.tn\
d t \OU J.c;pm. ro llllld nor the OTIC }Oll cutTL hme
l--
- '

Cr ,. refel"(.'llCcJ dcfinmon-- c1ppear lD '" \Ll L.\l'
<\Cl ORnll'l" ru o\T'S \ sene" of n:u-ro\\ fold- 111 n
dwt dtosc of .10 accordtnn.
\tlit:'TI.r surrrJ: \ l.lcclco;!>. pull-on tnb fronr shoe
ariguuu:.d b} Princl' Albcrr \ 1ctoria 's Prince
Comorr (' 1()2)
\ll {.,)\ R \ lh l11. such .1, polka dots, rhat
.mel n:gu1.trl) OH!r the t'ntire :-urf:lCl' of .1
(II! potgt> )
ALl AC\ \ of the ... s1mdar to rhc
faund tn the \ndc.m J Hghl.mcl..: UJ Clul\'
Pcru It 1s u dJppl!Xl .nnmJI whu.-.c Utldcrco:u is dClwnr
\Ct') fint= h.ur '<err olt and lustrous lb wool can
b.: from a grcJn.trietrofsoft grars. ru c;cL,
und bm'' n . from pure '' hirr- m a ntst} black
\MF1 JL\:-.; \. b) Brook-:
me 19l9 11uBn 1( ts. Jbm-e :Ill. di_tinguishcd by ir<.
n.uur.d!US$ dothi!s should be wont for comfon :md
uncon ciou .. c.a"e 111c wc.1rer :<>hould look hkc
.tn,lno other no m.:men\h..tt the OCUJStOn or "h:n he
h..LS on fh,,. cannot be wuh th.u
bavt urnethmg abum rhcm rh.tr foreign TLl
v.carer s h.1bJt lirspnsiuon, or
natural clothes, like n:uunl P"opk, .1rc :tl\\ars
rhc rmm ( rr Dean . \d1'-'"on. pag,, VJ)
\ rJQ.L'lNG Also culled boormakcr'o; f'lni"h .. A
prott.>s.; of i!ppl)lng t.tin v. .1-..:, or uil tl1 Jeathcr
.tfJu,\ mg It to be .tbsorbcd or "'Cl, .Htd Lhen rubb111g rhc
le.1thcr \\lth ll doth or hruoihmg ir. Begu111ingaround
Jttr1qumg produced :.1 dchbcrarclr \\'l!athcrcd
p..uinJ.. ermchmg a "hoc s appearance \\hilc pa\mg th1
wa tor the nch bro" n acccpt:tncc for tO\\ n and
bu mc.c; \\car (Sec p.tge l91 )
ArRnN fhe \mcncan term for tht: wtdc ends. front
nd b.at.k. af a long uc r\Jt;o a nu'>cd or flat scam
round front or "amp (Sa pagt:' 1 CJh)
\tH. 11 1 h houom c1mc of a shoe from the heel m
rh 1--:zfl ,f thl.: fot"'l
\RG't u \ mulnco)orr.;d titamund pancrn .somcnmcs
"JW m.crpl.ud usuafl) 111 '\\ oul ong.mally kmttcd 111
l.ngl;md on hand 11 ts UO\\ made ll}
und prunanh tu .md .li\\e:ner-. I GJnk
lll.ltr.l. pJgc
:\R c ll ' C(llltrn:ti!JO C} c- the IO\'>Cr Ide
of th to \\ luch the lec ... r of a 1adet or
qo n If an'<'! dn'!d} n i.ot known :t'i a lugh
.1nnhol af 1t flrsloosel tt .,. kno,vn ao;; a hH\
;JfmhLlft'
A r T \ "quan: ended ue {.ltd uf c.:quaJ
\' fth '"rn for (nnn.tl d:!\ \H':tr Ocnv111g it
rum from \q:-ut th Englt h r..tcetrad \\hcn
taa: finr \\iUn. The. , ot .coust5b of t\\O kmu
RY
The first is a smglc knm. while rlw second '"a Gordian
knot with one end over the t'thcr and hrld 111
pl.tci:' with a J\lso, a dtro\\-over nctk for
sponswcar. ( .. "u Caf) Gmm. page 169.)
A .shadt. llf purple rhar of the
t'ggpl.ant.
I\ \Ct.: r.u.A rs The t\ o plc:.u:- it1 wpskks of
Lrou.;c:rs 1,\ .. :m:cl bei'\\C.:t'll rhe front plc.us .tnd rhc sid(
l!,:un:. (S,!' plc.ucd trow;cr illustrnlion, top nfpagc 61.)
B Vl.N'r: J\ siuglc upeuing or sfit :u dw ha\:k of n
Cl( varying nn 1 h..: srylmg
oC dtl..! jackcr. (S''" page 89,)
\\' J\ mndern kind cl formal \CSt
uuroduccJ in londt'n in 19.23 rnaJc without :1 back
.uh.l hd .. t in plncc h} ofhands. ia:.-tcncd with n
buckle or Inmon, :lcmss the bat:k at the waic;diuc. An
innmation of the DRF.SS SOFT cr;1 popuh1riud bphe
Pt iucc of \\'.1les allowing tnr more comfon and
coblntss for male formal "\\car. 1 Iawes nnd Curtis, d1c
:-.hirtmaker, w have invented
the
ni\CKS riTCJ J The tailor\ a kj nd of 10ckstirch.
diiTcl'ing fru111 others br covering the whole l,f the
...ud:u:c Getwccn the swchcs. wirh thl: exposed
011 du: 11Ke of l he mnteJ'i:!L t\ "dl-ti.1rtncJ
ghcs a of SCam.
HAl IOI.t.AR: A !ugh milirary cnlbr thntlll.l) bl.' \\Orn
n.u or llii'IJCJ up buttoned. The 1.'\)ll:tr is t1 b:tnd nf
m:ttcial :about three and a half indres wide, on a
rain(o:n or rnpcn;lL The name dedvc-. frlllll
IIAI.?-.1.'\CAAN
HAL J\ shoe" ith a lact:d front.
derived frum Hal moral in .:mlnmi (&r Oxford
page 19:;.)
BAI.ANCr MAin.:'\: l;uH.h klr the workmnn 111
the \;mou scctium of clothing rogclhtr corrcc-tl) as
well as inJtCiltions ro the CUi"fl't' th.:lt this h:1 been
d<JilC In trlllSt:rs, 111!\W.td or clt .Jk m:trk!>, sm.tll v
marks nrc Clll :a Lhc knr.:c :md hip for the lllllllg up of
the rcspccrhc p.trts lnlhi" way. the JMI \NCr: of the
Wh1.)le g:trfllCIH IS pt'C,\l'f\TCd
1\A Li\NCE- A term lC describe rlw lt.thg of :t
g.1rmcnt
BAll pan of dJC shOt' just: bchmd tlu toC'i
HALM \CAA A Joost fitting co::u on the
nrtginolnulit:tJ} \'Crs-ion worn b) dte Pmssi.tn \rnt}
N;uncd rl)l" Bnltn:tiOilll ;If) c. .. nc.lr
-:cotlau\1. tl rnghm shoulders and a
do\\ n"\',Jlar: bmh coll.u anJ coat art: c.:tllcd
hat for shorr
sof1 p-caUco;s Sc\Jtrl'ih for men
rn the nmeu!t'nth u1 honor of Qul!t'U
.. --
-
-,-Q
- ''
DRJ. )JNG
Ttl M.\,,
\ t\l\lt i-1':, )!rCat cas de nr Hal moral, wht!re 11 \\'11!;
lnqut?udy worn Also liun o ha.nr.cr."' or
... l:umn}. :tfttr a IHrn i11 one uf J(!,lJcn Hunts poems
gi\N I>A:-INA A large. b1 ighcly colored
''orn tic\1 :tround dtt! ncd:. Ongmall) mndc uf ilk
rhq\\'en imported from lndt:tan rhccarh eghtccmh
ccntUJ) and worn hr rh,, Arnencan cowbo) Also a
I Iindi Wt)t d !'or t} ing nnd drcing doth
BA!-:Dt)ll f R s I'RI rr: A tH.1guna1 snipe .tppt::aring on I)
nun: lwlow 1 he lll''s knot.
BAil.A1 II I i\ A rcxnrred \\'OJ sted doth ui a broken
H ll I NG \\ hicl1 :1 ptbhldtkc surface 1r
b m:uJ, in wool for L!\'euing dothes and S1U:
riJr llt."L'kwt'a r
HllOUR COA'l; i\ da'>Sic Engli)h hunung 0\crro:u
with a '>tand up hmwn corduro} nllbr an\i thmat l.adt
dt!mil . made frl)m dark greennih.kinnf Cm pttnn
cotltm linl-'J in a briwu couon pl:ud Its
multi pit. and ''catht?rproof construcrtotl make
it dti' squir..:-'s choice for coumrr 01 ell) \\('af_
BARl I: 'I COR:-: All owr nf mimawre
'-"
pmpunions charJctcri;ted b) small, f:usu "corn"
used for rwccd and othct woolen fahrics
"I hi!'! t\\ pattern b} comr.tstmg
the WARP and WET r thrlaJ.;, (Sec l lumphrt.'} f\ogurt,
pagL' 180)
B \RRH CUFF: A single cuff anached 10 n
:md C1stc11cd with n button and .1 buttonholt
BARR"\ MORT GOt.I..AR; A attacht.>d drcsb shirt
coll:tr with kmg poilus. first worn br John more
in the btl' 1910" and rhen adopLcd br llollywood
:wd ot hero; in California. it later becmnl' knlm n as- 1 he.:
C.tlilornin colbr.
I J:.1\ four-in-h;1nd ric in ''hich th\:
l'Uds ar\.' of equal\\ idtb and parallel
BAll TACK: A stirch made in hcav'' \':tru w rcinforcl'

rht: slip stitching that jomo; the bod} of thl at rhL
front bl3dc l'nd.
H,\SKf. r A ''ariarioJT of a f:1bric in
"bich two or lllOrc yarns arc worked lTI 1 he W\RI' and
WEFT to proJucc a pWrt!d basktr t!li<.ct.lwncc
1 he n;unc It is used mainly in shining" and spon
j.tckt.'lings. (h:tord doth is:t type \H':t\c.
B,\SQ!.If 1\li lUl : A d1,.N.' ilrrhtg,
with no "isor c1r brun. ns worn in rht. .. qtt<-" coun1
(Sec the Prinl"t.' of p:tgc 8 far left phNogrnph)
l\A:o, rr: li1 't.'W loosely or r\'mpornr:iJr
m pl.tn:: with long, cusil) n.-mmcd In men'
tailoring. it j., u:-u::J!I) tv rcmp('ltanlr hnld dtl"
p:trb of:t g:trmclll so that it em be tried on
n,\S r1 P F 1'111 The tiN fininl! in thC" crcauon of a
tnh.' custom t:tilored j.1i"ker nrr.:m tf'} on i
prt'p:tr('d dirL'Ctl} from a patt('rn b) dll
tmlor This coat hz U" wchd 111
:-c.uns ftlHH edge:- in. collar on.
llld, Ollt' 011, nftcr \duch II I
usuall\ ri ppe'd ap2n ro be mad m cl n :r ffli r;
nd\':l.nced and p mnanent fin ng
I\"- II A find\ :mvcn shr.:r.r ll" mred fo1u
1
n:
cotton or tnhPr fiber:. ud li r 1 mu m d
1\apn tc a french fim lmen \\I
111 Cnmbrai and fmr pmduced tht 1 th (
UJruner" m the ... hm F:ilin l?t.di ld )
HA1TLE )A<..KET A \\t;Ust-lcngtb mglc t
"oolcn J :td.et wiuch wru rcgulau n fi .t d c.: L:
in \\orld \\arll lhe t'l"t wedL r 't\'llran
sportS>\ l'nr m a '"':meq of fi hn
r
BAI"\\INv tit \\h tTilPht
square ends resemble th:tl nf bar "JUg bei "
I' as dub ho\\ in Ammc.a IllS n hrm tl\
shnpo to dte bune.rfl} bo\\ arr. Hr rh n :1ln1m"rll
lo" u 1 m d With a I:ngcr l.nl)r \\ ll 1a\ l f; und
111 ribbed sdk or for('\ t-rung fir 111 il
pancrm:d fabnc fur <hr "car (5tt (Ufi 1 i ) )
l\1 A\ if R fur fiber of a fum &Ino th 1UJike t
u..st-d cxrcnStH!l} m the Jn:.tnufJctUrf' of :li 1t lut
TUn'
HEnFORf"' CORD A "JSter dot.h r ptqiU' t 1 cl
\\0\CtlStuTd\ fAhnc 1U 2 nb \\e:J\C \tlh 11 CU. !..-d r

corded efTccr It ''"25 first u cd lo maJ.c l C. r the
Booford rn.Iuia henct: the namt: It ongmJl
CO\ ERT CLOTH Bedford cord com JQ
\\O(')I couon. or blends ( . .\u the entcd SJ rt m n
page liS)
Br 1 1 t E The bad: nf .a w:,usrroat' 1th rounded
co1 ncrs" length extend" be}ond rh. edt'- J tU t
its rorcpafl'-
Brwr. \ natural or und) e,JcoloJ \!..:" p. h: t nt'
of 1 a.n.
BrLL B01TOMS Fbres ot pants \\Jth fhred fi tin
suggesting 1ht :.h:tpe of a bi!U Ongmall the I r
''hire trou cr.s worn bj ml\"\ al l:n \\
rulor\ panr-..
B OW!- PtE/. T dc'-1' fold at the 1dc f t r
coat to pro' tdc cnr.t fullness for comf n t fmn
Fonda. page 1 h)
Hn LOW PO Ll lro tcmtcd .1: n p 1\
p!nch st)ic with oadtptr c rh I
dtl pocke-r to c.\:pand 11tc e "tdt JUCL" gt'' the-
:tppe:tr:aiLt:c of old [nghsJt firt: bgfnHl bdl lV.
Gable I.o-)
A trnde rtame for Cupr:tm mum nn Jl
U. urrlh found m top t'nher a t. lor
hmng'
.\ mlsleildmg lC'..rtn Uft l t
percent handt:rnftcd shoe on J ben h h,
crafr-snuuL T<Hil' it means a .. , pt..'T m awdnllC' nude
hoe hand l.lstc-d 'With ltJnd wehr-d ul
BENGAL 'TRJrE5 Ahem:nmg !impe!- ot e-1
u"ualh "hue nnd Th \ \\Crc <'ngm
\\d
ro world mnrkt"r.s from India d rc
found 111 (Str 1-aH and wnmer 1 t1
-,hitt r-abnc-p g:netold)

ppeJ
11
BE"RrT \ bruulcss.. tnm dTtct cap of fch \lr

BERMl D'l IIORH \\:llkmgshort." ofdtc t}lc- \\Ortl
an Iknnud.l hrcndmg to Jbout the brc.tk in the kntc.
"'
th 1r 1de r.tngc &om t\\CHt) tu r\Wnt} U\'O
rnchc (11t'4 pagln 2 :md 1 -l}
Bf OM A t.ulonng term for d.n in.;cr made "nJt
a rurnm edge the plxkct opc.ning It a-.
cnlkd a dl1ublc bos.lm ifbflth top o.nd botmm
W\ \Wit" .tnd .1 "hen a
tl.tp I .ufdc:J
Br rc Kl t:waOIII made. a rcrm .tpplir I m 1 ngl.tnd to
.urlcfc, to ('rder
Ui\5 Cl)r-,; TRl no. Scr. nrstu rxT l or-:-. rRL'-.;:"1 !I.JN.
81 kJ ,..., \bbrc\l:trcd- nle ir,,rn
\HUncn o:
Bt LLl l OC:.:J.:
BIRD UL \ll
'--'
mJdl: from u sm;.1U gcomctnc p.urcrn '' ilh n dot
.t bird' c\c. Tfti ... fang ;)olid is a
(.1\- nrc ot bespoke utlors and t hc1r murL' . t}
parr m. ( rt \\ nncr m tltco -.:mtt J-abno
fi,IJt"d nn. 9J )
Rb .(l 1 .\ p.1lc.- tnnt: uf tan suggc,ri\"' of 1hc: color oi n
slaslnl .. bra" n bi .. cuu (Sri' 2 53)
fll \\IN<.. I M f he back of.1 pckct \\ 1th a G ''I 1
or 1 !" \ 1 ruru I' lEA 1 s:xt-cnliu1sr from m
.._
...,:;u tlmt ou .1ch stdc wwnlly with a srtrdu!d on hnlt
belt 111 b;tck (Srr 1 o6)
1St M K \\ ncu fh..: Black \\atd1 or tli.J.ck G11:ml. \\,l'i
mg.mafl) a grcmp uf c .. 1rs b) The
km f f to chcd: mmblc,omc I IighLmcl dans
Titt' \\ J parnnti.tdmtd of TART AN or I'U.I 0 It
1 the umf. nn tnnJn of the Unnsh t\rm} :. 4.2nd
Ht hbnd R.t:gamtnr the C:unphdlt.1nan mums dtl'
dl " .md .. , futc 0\L::rch\:ck Popul.u m men\
c It unnbmc mo JL blazer color , na\) >1nd
1 tlu: reb\' .mother hlazcr po tblllt)
nunt Or Bnu h bwdc tlus CXtnl nt the
J41ckt-t shouldt: r bi.IJ, C'nmtruc(ion ongmat rng
uth lfn r.ulors m rhc \\e, .. , r nd or London Ill I Itt'
bt r lr 1 .1l d1e BmLh tcrrn filr tht hroadl r
l"r J f 1 f Jl R I 11 !\N h knot \\ lruh u'iunll) hangs tu
du. fl-onr ol the under t. nd ofJJ ncckuc '\!No. rht> c11dc;
of .t ncm ru
Bt -'1/fR r hl: t'l! t bl.u: r-.; u.erc bnght J;Qtrlct 1 lcX\.'t \HlrJJ
h) tuclcnt mcrnlx-r uf dw l.ad) r-..litrgaret Boar Llub .11
ambndg lm\ r.:rnt A 1ukmg n:te1-enu w a "bl.1/. o(
l1r " applied to bnghd srnptd boauog Jb.lu:t
hkh popul.u- 111 d1 1 8 llu t} rohcr.:d
t1 ut th l')J \\1th the modem bLazer , rmg
1 n- Imtl Jnt} tl cl c 1\mt h a\'\ RH HR. bm r onll'
11 t rum (Set page J '')
nurrn
tl d
<.; T lb: t rm d cnpm of a 111 '"'"'"h
1 n ; a5 .tnd cum Ut when wet
B l 1 n r If :\ smdt
BLOt" \n Llld mcrhod of hand pnnttng
rr,llll i:.trn.d (lf mct.ll blt!Cb
BLUCJH:R \bee ur ,lwt.: \\itlt a Jo\\ thro.tt
front O\'t:r rhe patt'trnt!d alter the rmlH.tt} buutc;
\\0111 b, Gene-ral <..lchh:1rd I ebC'rcchr \Oil Blucher \\ho

J'ru,"i.ln .trtn} again."t
1
.tpolcon. \lso known .1.,
.:1 nr fUn (.'lu pages 1--;.
HJ lJII 1 ,\n nwdc up in w;u:ll W:J} bm
flrw.hld \\it hout outside sllt,-luug
1\('1 \1 NlGK ;\ honz-t>rl!:U c)pcning :11 rhl tlp oi a
knit wd pullm cr.
HO,.\TLR.Su l-U'fNIT
f\011.1 D l>ltiiH" An irwlcg:uu rec111 l{,r ,1 stilT bcsomcd
..:\'l'll rug :-.hirt. 1.. )ng111.1ll). rht fr\)ms hall robe
borlcd ro rcrume the.: srarch fllr ".t:.hing
HOJD l.oo" lmroJucLJ br 8cjuiu magazine m the
ot the 1 ook \\Xi :t son W thl" J.td:
of nc'' tashions during and just arrcr \V\VII. 3.tsmg H
ou appeal of the: large \V!NDS1JR knot :md
nd spread-cnllar dre-::s shirt,
dcpartllll'lll ro roc luok oi owrsizcd
.tpp:u-d suit lh-kcts "it h prtmillL'lH
. lh,uldt:r.!', .lggrl'''J' c- paw.: rued llt.'C kwc.tr, masSJ\'C
k'H:In_ .md thtd: ru ucm.R (,,mwear \ldJOm!h
I '
Bnld lcok ll Jtll)lllt:mrun ncx[ dcc:td.: iT
unhill.hed L:l!HI.' Crom its r>rooks
[kothc:n; ilc inittariug
Jll\I'UWUI'J spit';1l illh1 I ht! 1<))0!' rl N It\ I 1.00 "
! hl 1\)60- 1'1 \COCl\' Rl:VOil n I 0 N, and the dt.spl.lSahJ!'
ltt!lhioth (>f the 19-os
B1) In T 11 \ cnwboy- uc m:lt.lt \: f
leather or hea'} brJided wrJ with metnlups fu tcnt!,l
wuh a 'llidc dcvkc
HOI TAn length of \\On) doth from tfrc loom.
rullcd or ioldc:d Holt:. \-:Jr}' in lc:ngth 311}'\\ hcre from
6fq ro t:\'Cllt}tnl.!ter:s .md ,,jdth from thrrt} moto
"ir"t}
13oM HER J \C Kl r A \\ :11-.r length '' nrn b) C
\1r I oru: ptlots adapted f,..,, Cl\ 11J.m pllrpl1. m
lc.11 ht: r '' uJ1 lwl:pskin lining or m .1 i:tbnr \\ uh :3 prlc
f:tlmc lming.
fhl
1
1 FoPtwc,1r thor cXtL'Illh am ltl'lglu ab<.nc rhl.
.urklt.
B'IU,\lJNu I he :uJJl'oithc:grear ltal1.11t h.tlm.tkcl\
CUiltrthutmn roth!! TlULBl h.u l:rnHI} \\Hh
..:h 11':1 tC'rtsttc Lrt:tngle patrh h the n ("t't Mtltu11
lluldl'n p:tgc 1 )
B'-> rr Ll tltH N A dc...1' nf grcLn rc'\t'mblrug
r hat n1 t fT .1i11
Bl'\Tfl r II AI' D fll \ tit hapt" Hit 1 rnatktd
under the knut th.at do\\n n1
the h 'I'L' nf.a horde; pcruut .a \\tdl'r hoJ.inl
nt r , c .1 norm.1l knnt
lk)TfOM Tht. S<Ctllm of o :o;ok from
H tOt tu till' brcJ t ,j 1hc ht d uot lilt tht h, 1)
\
.Hit>
Dnr ....-51 ,.u
rru M 1 .....
llOU I I 1 n1111 dH I rt.'ncll \ ... ord b11Utir mcan
11
tu a
bh:kl"" o"ringlct .. A umdL) )am.utd fnu.sh:trccr
prdduc'"J on \\hereby \"t'l") f;llJall. dra\' n out
curl) lnnps 1r1 the! indi\'tdunl thread appear on rhf'
surfncl' of rill n:ucn:tl
BnL N ll t 111,1 I dge!> fllllshcd \\ ith or odu J
of COH'rmg
Bot 1 ONN II RI. 1. \:OrufkH\t: ,, ur 1du:r
flm\el \Hilll on the bpd of a jnd.t! orolllcrco:u (.Srt
201 .2'31 236)
UOW Til .')n 1\,tgC!I I bO 64
1\0WI I R .\u nr Kill
1\o.x U OTII. A la<'tl\'), C'I'IJ'.'It: doth. ()rigm:tll)' m bulT or
1:111 cok,rcJ M 11Tr.JN lt'ied li1 tlw )VCtt.!O:ttmg tmdc
1\b('lus<.d fflr llll'll\
Uax I' 1 r A r '' plcar with fo!Jcd facing i 11
nppo:-it( u<ovd 111 pockct:; o( shjns :tnd
jnckt:ts or thl' b.Kk yoke of :t shirt itr fullnc s :rnd
of lllO\ O:lllCill
Bo:..: TO[: Tht.> !'Uppnrt u:.ed in,.idc the shoe to hold the
of the 10(' \I'UaJiy rigid. but mar be ::oft Or
llcxtblc
BRACJ BU rT,)N /\ :.pt:cbllr shapt'd burron domed nn
the sidl! :md ro 1 T1c wat:.tb:md. pcrrnin i ng
suffkicm sp;Kl' for dw 's lo0p h1 move fr<'d)'
Cmm w (S pJge l:LJ )
1\JL\Gt: p,rjfi,J, tum fur (Sr. pagl? .22.!.)
Bltr\DFORD Oneo(thrl'l.' prllh.:tplc
Tlll'Lhuds or WORSTED l A.RNS Origll1:1! illg in
Ymkshirc. liogbnd. rhis or spinning wool ill!\)
rnrn rhc and Llwroughlr o1l ir
before It b CI'OlbcJ. '' hjdt produ('cc; a ,mullth,lustrous
prnuscd for\\or:acJ !'littings. Thi!>Jiiicr' from
S{('ltl, \\ hich lS. Jl") spun.
HIM 1 I} \Vovcn, knitted. or pl:1itcd nmtcri:tJu,c:J for
trimming or binding Oiren u:.c:-J for roruulwc:ar
lfOU!iCfS SU pagt.'s 2.:,!8. 2.)1.
BHr . "llw amt.lUnt offt..1lding. rrc:.bing.or M, Juva- oi
the troustr horrom "ben it :wd .Sit!> 011 the top
of r :.hut' page' 4-8. (, r.)
HHt.t:t'll An [ngli:.h \h>rd for
bm r .. ... i-. whar Ct'\'Crs dwm Tlw
word Cir.st in rngl:md tn rh($iXll'l'1llb
nrigi rete ucd to krwc l.:ngt h twusc 1"
"nh buc.kle1\ for dcc<'mtion l .1ttr. brccclws were!

lt:ngthcncd :llld cnnn. mean
HRI 1 Ks Colloqui:tlt!'m fur br ... :1 1cnn for
t rou:;e r.s i rn plying trim linc.:-
BIU 1)1 1.:.: \ bridiC' j.. aau:tU} comn..'lllwg gt:t.r hkc the
bndle in a mourh it:. here i ru-.1
...
jnd:et's princjpk "tur.:-c a f suppon \t ...o. a nrm
appJietl fur p.1dding :t piCCl' of lll!liL!rJ<t.J from the UCC'l:
Ofll\l the C:ln\n' a.lllll).!. tlw in:.idt. crc.t.sc or rolli the

lnpd tt> hold or .:'0111 rol rhc ;:he't.
UJ tii'IH\\ARM onvnu t t
mtfu.Jr) origin 1t1 kne <Jr aboh ., lcugtl \ t:h
bod\ lmt! .tnd a O.trt. t \\.lnJ du: ll( rtnm
"1th epaulet-.; It JS u u.Uh af .tEL r
Ch.Hd) hn ... "u 1 th
r
runmng \h1rnJ.Se 11 cmu .anc; 05 nun \\ \RP
thrtad .. .., tl1c fl UINb pr'-l(iu 111g c: llcm lu t r 1
cotton l1f pol} lllcnds It u u tJ m luru un t; h
11
and (Sa rht. ll.I.It J abn t i M 1
URc l frum the lmltan brou-.xrr mt>;uung r
pnck cu Mm fignn.: " A ltc3\'\ :111d ftgur tll
unll) 111 all-o\crrlr 1gm uf r.uscJ figure or A .c
l)) \\Ant throacl-" m JA Ql !\Jm
\\l'iJ\ 1ng to fonn 1 he paurrn
Blll1GUr. IIJstoncn.IJ) a rough uurdum h c If
UJilni\ned lc.athcn\1th lhong lo urr.: \\ '"' b ' :ot
a11d lmh pt.;:as.mh (fmm Lache J h[\() lbd
brogue n hea\'y oxft.llll.i lihOt' "' nh a IJrgc pPd r.ucd
dcstgn on toe and border '5L".atm mu \\IN 1 il (\i
194)
BROI L"' 1\ 1\rimh rerm for wnbrcll
BROWN TO!': A combinntJOll of d cp lud f
enrrh-made rod. et 1If \\ rth l\ertnnt.: ,f gr.
Coined hr Dqmu\ ... Apparel \ru" m 1941 t<. "'" l
rail r.:.olor blcndtng \\ ttll all cmnpll ll "" nJ pr m trd
:ts a n<'\\ to sell brown.
H1WM.M11. l 11 ORC.l UR1A ,. Bcnu Jirumm,l
(178 J8:.40) An ear:l} uinct.ecnth ttntUf) I ng{t I
d.llld\ \dtosc du::mtcs on male dn: !\UIJ cndutt '

l'":-L'IHI:ll mdc of lhe \\ell -rlr.e<: ed gcntlun:m Pn rt 1
" J he lh:1.111." 3 gtmJcm:lll''i nppCi3CU1Cl' dt !ed OU
dtc riclmes of the m.1to:nal ,,nfu b:tl r"cn rl 111gl
the dnthcs were often b.tdl) mnde til fittm and not
:th\.1}, de:tn. \Y1th Brummd male snh bt. .. am
m:uttr of tmpt."ccnblc Gt and cut exqu n dt t tl nd
tllltll!lrubre [\en fu, prefi n: n e t 'r thl
color blue would erulure tn the cxt<'nt tft:u tlu: n.n
t.11it bccamC' the urufomt oi mtlhon .. through mu h l t
Lhe 1" entieth a::ntun

BRl "lJIN(; \lso nnpptng .1 hnisluug procC'
\\ htrc cin:ular pull up the r cnJ to I rnt
a iun} urf:Ke dk!r:eb) r.usinp. aN !\I' un l nnt J
\\ owH fabrics.
1\Lit:J\.,1..:1 'l'ft napped lt:.athcr of utcr or ell tur fine
gloh: J; or m qu!llm . hoes ( J tgr .!Ol J
BL \ '\\ dl '-nl.)\\ n lttU hrttgue I'H tm'l m I Ul
shot' with a lugh roc cap
BU(ili'l 11H:: :smp of au Jl.ld tr
the back n('ck rh:n ghc!' !1 fim.,h to thnl iJ n ol
thC' "l:tl. (In cu<:tom tmlonng whr-n the luungaun :o.
four rn fiH mchc bdO\\ the .mnhull" n a rdrrreJ t
., .. half hnoo )
Humn RR1 Thoma, Burbern c:' unm cirapcr m
lngLwd hie upon a me'rhod of chl"nn-. II treanr g
('Ot ron fnbnc ,o that It rrpcUcd Wd!CJ"\\ htlc n-m:un I
porou In t'h 4 ht ad\crUst.-d .. PRt"lLll g 10 t th
I ka\ IC"l .R.lin.s and Hurbcrn umlonn
dcparnncnt dc ...tgt\N u r;un rc"tsl nt c,,n,wn .... me
tre1lcll .:o.Jt th:tt tssued to mun: th<111 hnlf nul lion
111 the ol \\ \\ I Sa H GOA I
1\L Dl det:p n.:h red SUg&C'itiVe l'f
burguud} \HJJ.C ( 'ch ct: .,Jtpper, page I ''2 )
ftt "IlL ll"L '\nmhcr renn for or alrcrrng
uu ,ackeb orourcn\-e;:u:
UL HL \f :\N \ nun tailor v. ho undcrtttkts
nnd rr.p::urs:
Bl .. u r \( RI.f \ belted bn::ml."d slun t:u:ket
\\1th four PH\. H l'1.lt.$.ET' and tlJp m tan co non
Of.Ul.L'" r l,.o.>\IJ.AR[tl !'.'T;. (Sct page I
L\t rrrFFL.1 A aow TIE cut wnh thbrlc shape.-,] or
fl.ued cmb ned "nh a sm:lll knot aud a wide bow '' ll h
hro.td cuds l.il\\!11 It 11:unc m 1C)04 due ru the
, t the opera \'tad.mw Ruttrtjly Unnl that tame. 1 ics
f;u;hmn..:d m bo\\ \\en' called l;RA,ATS
pagt: 2.4 s 24- )
Ht T rrRNt T e of a bm\\11 color thar \\il"
n:: ue<J 'ult rhe J c: of rhe bark of a bLtncmut or
\\Jinut \pphcd to a coarse \\'\Jolcn
l.1l nl.. once cxun"'' eh \\Ofll m the Southern states of
th l
UL (}0\\ s COU \R '-17 p.Jgl' 134 fred Asr.;urc,
f"J&<' 1-J 0
Rl.: T'f :SHOll GLARD fhc loo. "'-= o;u:.tnd of 1:\\ IS tee!
thnad ou ofdll' k:fl lapel
bummbol m t<cure the nou roNN 1 E:R
Bl NH::K The lfsrc::ad allcn':!nce given t(s :t
burton htrt \\ ll to .1 g:tnncnt rude; 1Jl the US(' of l he
button ;u vtdl .1 m promonng ft.wer \\ rmkles
th 1 hutt011ed
Bl r n !..; iAN{ l 1 h hetght dastance . md or
J Cb.lt fmnt button to tts from l'dgc and
".tL t (su p.tgc J 84)
llt rr lt,; Til ROt uJI DCSJgn;mng the or on
utt.r.:-1 .JT r J.Kkct an'' ludt burtons tn
buttonhole' thruugh the .tnd nm CO\cre!d
nh o1 tl from
'1\l r Tl T n \n mt"rlappmg bmung stuc.h
b n .1 hm nr b) h.1nd thlt re.;cmblcs a cabll' m
\ ttcr :tnd Ui:k (<itt p3gc lD5)
<. ;\lJ f...l"l l..ctthl"r from rhl! ktll of.t )Oung
.a ft.'"\\ ruy nr \\CC'ks, hL \\ cn"!hmg 'il>.-rean
r k prcc.cs d fur U.'l Ill r .tnd uthcr
I rlll rgffi d
"UJUR I\ It lU.R Su u.a.ltR't'"\tnRf r.uli...AR
( c\M RIO ,f RU <; t "X:fOIUl LR\1"
\ U l \ lrght \\: llou1 h t:rn based un dh coh r of the
c;uncl
\ 1 L H :\In hl1tt I r m ..1 &>nmd r-.m!?Jng m en lor
fi m natur.d t:m t bm n \ \c;n \\Mm and
l1 \ rght ' tn I It Jch JU dun c..t hmcrc: fhc
hr cart 1 I ur m fmm tlt under o lt pf a
rr n (rn J) amd taunJ m th ( hm "'(;
higbland. l "Cd eirhcr brir:sclf or rn wJth
wool ior ro:u ... stur5, .1ncl , .. ,ea,crs
CAN'\ A Ouginnll} n cltnh mack from hemp
und u:rmcd from the ward mnrwlm A genet.!
cln. lf)c:mon of srmug. c:o,uscl} , .. '0\ en t:'lbrics
u.su.tll) rnat.!c or The lcrms and duck arc
u"ed imt:rdt:tnt!cnhl}: but ... Cinv:.v,'' rd.nes to
hc.a' ier con-.tructions.
CAl' A \'isorrd I:,Lmc h(:adpi('..:c \\ nh :1 rounded crO\\ n.
cut in on C'tghr ptcc .. " wp or .1 Pill" P"-'CC-lOp
St'. lc. In tht llritish P.1rlinmcnt p.tSSl'll :1 law
tl'<.ftllrlllg all lWt!r 1 he ag ohix (b\11
lt' w.:or :1 \\'()tolcn ""Pun S11 nd.tys
Til(' law, h stimulate rltr wool trade, wns
rcpc.llcd in 1)4Jj', but dw with bonnwtal rrour
hritll or \":lf}'tng has sin.:c bccn rhc
IH"'.t<h! n1 of lc i:.ure. (St't' page f.(l)
...
C,\Pl An Ollh'r gMmcnr \\id1\.lUl .,.fcc\Cs but wtth bllts
.H for dlC a.rms
C.I\RIHGA.N A k111d of knitting -md1 Al o a knitted
'' c:u.cr" ir hlllf a collnr or lapels. madl! \\ nh or
'' tthout Named for the carl of
Cardig:m who c..lislikcJ disturbing his <"Oificur bur" ho
'-'
did knd the Charge of 1 he Light Brigade 111 the
Crm11.:an \Var page
CARDING. J\ .. for Wllll pm
spinuing Till' fibers arc .turom:lticJIIy pl:tcL'd 10 propt.'r'
:alisnm,nt :urd tlw impurities The
) ams aro.: pm m:m.lgl!ablc form known jJs
rh;H :1pproximah!.' dtr .stzc of:-r mau'-: thumb.
1 he binhpl:tn ot' the l'c.u:ock
Rcvuluti1111 111 ingmg I ominn \ two blq.:k street
parallel ro Rt'gl!nt London.\\ mnn} shop.s
in the imroducJd clotlut1g a.nd later::
st}lcs as Onrcd lacb, brighd} pancrncd s.hms :mJ
adapt:ttaons of \mcnr.tn "'estern dorl11.
CA II J'OCI(fl' t'C'Th:I\ETJ'Ollo:II
CA511 MJ IH. lmt< wool frmn the underco:u of the 1\ ng
haired K.tshnur go.n, '' hkh is \\Oven or l:nincd smo
"-Dlt f.1bnts .trc luxurious to thL: hHh:h l o"hmc rc
llf"it ''on ncd:um \\hen d 11.' pt'Oplt: uf K.1shmrr "cwt. H
uno cxqtuor;tte 111 tl1c cenrun the
and J rendt S( t\l\'Ctcd h.l\\L
thnr the' lmll.uNI c-.pcci:J.llr m swtl trtd
-, hulk l'f wnol1s ;1 p<tll! "arm gtm nnd d, c
lnutr 1 h.m :1Tl}' mlwr ot' du: mrr.:t Til)
Is .md. mmc rh:u1 \H:!ulcn
cno;hmc: rc ns tltt.' cmnbcd ).tnt! c.anntH :o.pun \\ uh
Ulfccmc or unp<rfeC'l fibct \\ orsrcd c;ashmLrc) .Int
)1dd;; c .trc.tndy lrghr tn.nr:nJ.l tll.u ts rc .. mmn 10
I'U (tho.! ofltttlt nuhs ofiu7.z on .;url.tc
(lf dw f.thrtc) used txJust\Ch lor .mung.-. nml sporr
\Voolcn ca-;luncn: 1., lnfmr lc
Qcun nnd b.tll c:asil'r th.ur woNted C"".t<.IUlwrc \\oolt'n
c t r u t.'d pnm:ml} for 1 .uhi \\C:ltt .-..
Co\ t " \ W'nl.1tccl l<'w \arnpcd
CAV'\l I fit tift felt h:tt \\ idt a Jllll\ ht.d
CTO\\ n tml.1 flnpp) bnm tumt>d up .;til lmunJ

IJ R I \ S I ..; (,,
llfl \J\r\
aftt:'r :'1 slnnmtbl}' plumed afliur fn.lrn the
It \\ llfll b} tlu:: \\CUJ"iJ em .all") \\i1tLft
{i und unrncdhltc fa\Or\\lth ccn:tm rake' 111 the Bnuo;h
J'Ovnh) lmu.1Il} "POrtl'd wtth on tin left s1dc
and up hrim on the 11glu Ill order tu haH more
incdom \\ 1dding n S\ltt.lrd. mnH bbdc
upped the tlurd and soft cuckt:d hIt bct'n
knLl\\ n CJ\ C\ cr (.Stt' man 111 polka dpt
tll', p:tgL' 1)8 )
CtWAI rt) TWlll A fab11C made \\llh a
dmgon.tl corcl Sll!l'P {HI a (,3 dcgtd: l\\ 11l iur
trou .. er.' 111d hrrcchL'<:, hcth::f' 1 he .lS'>t)\Iat ron "nh
1\mish C'.l\.rlq o(ilccrs. Alrhuugh ca\1111) twillts dw
n,,guuln:lmt: r h, l'.:-- go\erumctll n:tmt.>d Jt
htcuu't: t1fi1s qunlity :uru
ri.imc clut

C1 1 1 \ IipL of cfCr:ot suntlllr tn
dJ\m:u k with ..1 railof"s chall. usunll) fuuud m
l1:umtl dm!J, "ath .1 light orwhitl' l',,Jor spaced
'l npt' "l!t 1111g ( $er the -!'ui1 I nbncs .. g:atcfuld p.1gtJ 79)
l'IIALLI A hght'\\ eaght. IUIC.!iplln. ria Ill '\h'n\ c \\ on;r('()
\\ ool t:tbrtc nrigm,mng 10 l arouud 1831,;1 Its
tl.1f11t' ClllllCS from a llindi word nw.111ing w the
lbuch - h W':l" ilr-.t as a ncckwcnr prim cloth for
.-mnll overall p:mL-rns of a sport ur p:tislr} :md
rh\!.11 Jd:1prcd by r he 113tural "' h(llilJcr !iCt in the Ill 50s for
OLid Vt.''l!t, tromcrs . m\1 j .. u:ker:-. (&r page 1)'1)
.... IIA M liRA) A fine. pl:liu Wll\ cu EtbriL wi1 b a snft
mil izing u ''hit!? cow'n WJ\ n I' and cnlurcd
I I Ll.l NG .m .. l fmtatJ rrimMil}' in shirt i11gs 0rlgtJ1;ttcd
111 r,:tmhr,li. rrancc. (St'l""bW and "Spri11g" i11 1hc
hShir:r Dtbncs" g.udold.)
:n \MI'lfS i\ pale o;uedC' cnlm tilHll du. t.lltntd
!ikin0f 1hc [mopean gl'l;H of dw :.:unc llttmc:
Cll \NNI l 1\ .;Jamed groO\c cut around dw uudcr
cdgl of" IH'JL' m cutll."cal thl! 5,1k's
Cll.:\HM 1 usr A lighrwclgln, richluoking. ,oft 'a lin
"irh :t subdued and ;t dull It n
registered nnml of Bi:mchini Fcr:ricr, .md Comp:tll}
CIIA H,\'1:1 A "C't\..: LCchlllc:llh h1m\ n n-gmtr. n
.. . ... -
rm.mt. gl\ en it during era of II): lro.m
about 171 s to 1-.l:;. Jurmg rhc rcgctK) nl llull("lpc, .
Dukroi OrlL':m,. Mndc from :t dingnnnlnb \H!:lH'. tll!'-
:-;ol1 duiJ tit. silk drapt.:S \'Cf}' wdl Chat'\ l!t C'l Joik dtr
PMi" :;ldllfulul'C: nfth1 t:1brrc
:1 '"dl .15 hldd fi!!llf'cd. spaL"ed-prim n..:..:ktic:s. "hti."h
the lllllllt' C.lhlt' LO .. (Srt' p;tgt. 1-i-.)
l;llll '>r:.-\ noo1. J\ plain toc,i. ... i.:-atcd
bocn, simrlar ro rho..; JODIIPUTIIIOOT hm
Popula1 in thL' T'J';u" and when H'r} n.ll'rc,\\
tn111SCI"S \\ CJ'L' in\ Oglli'.
Cnr Nllt A \ant with a .:m pik pl'otrudm all muud
.It right anglc.!i 'rrom the rrcnch word for-l:tu'J]>tlbr,.
CJJ 15'1T.RIIIl D.,\ plain back. :-lightl} slmped O\crcu:ll
m enhasrngk Jl} from or dnuble tt;d
l>t)1c. In d:11 k grn} bl11e or bbck it may !l:l\ c .t mat" hmg
H:l"c' orsdi coll:1r nh! Is n.uncd lorn Hlllt.'t(cnh
ce.uruq i.:Jrl nf< hcMcrtlel..l (..'ia patl!
CH \ I )1 \ f'H"i'lh uun(utfi bnc ( Jln un e 1 ,
'(t-ol) Jll,Idc from dw , .. ( t h
dtr.; hc-t>p fotmd in th ( ht mt lull f
tr dnumaJ \\c;t). u; aft h bon p ncn
" I
eland It
h.J o;s tv. til amc-rscct.ed b t r 1 dt. 1r. n n
) Jm A grnm1 tmrgh t \ d the d 1 t
charancr t qutntQ cnnall) [ nf:h h (:S J
Cu 1 \ liON wr "' 1 n up ud dll\, n v.tp ftt>c1
forml'd b; rt"nnmg t dtrr.;ctl 11 of tb '" 1ll t r gular
mtt n.1ls hrr.nugl lllt' 1h1 b u U\111
p:mt>rn l!i found m topcnnt .md (Sa - _
rutd 73)
Cill!NO A durnblt dose \\O\cn ton 11 tabm
ongtnall} m lngl.md tc
lnt.t Ill rhe,11 exported >lg;Jtn to Llulla'l (r m \\ iu r; tt \\
UCluglu for U!iC b) the U "- 'tanc ned u tht.
btforc \\ \\ I Jnc ruunt- hm \\ ...
dcrhcd from rht: th.1l rhc fal n "
pu.rchatit:d in dun:. Du.d 111 J:ktll n \\ 1hc nl
inbnc nnd drc d1:u \\.ouJd o.:nlt rand rhc u , 1f
nuhtJn "enr \lso the naant of 01 \\:t h:1W f 1n
p:tm made of duno duth.
Cl IROML TANNJ N{ . 1 ht: l.llllltng oflt>.:uhcr h\ a n, 11
of rhrommm C::li:pci sl\l :m.:ll ' ira lc:
ml'dmd than 'cgetablc
C Ill R HOOT Srr. p:tl).L 204
AnY oi cndurmg \Jive .utJ amrn. t
!l"-ll.1lh unden;uttcd d('S'Ign and muph:
dcmtlfng It u,t,rd to be th.tt lf an Ht m uf .tpp.ud
rcnuinrcl ia.:.hionabh lor st."Vl n \ c:at"' u could bt:
'''nsillt:rtd a "cb:\;-.il
t..:u \I{ I D WOR$1TO .\do cf} \\0\ L ll t:1bn of
\\ith rhc nnp rcmtl\c.'t.l .md rlllmughl
s-court!d o tlu:- wca\:C ' dl .. .drh- \1 th1c l .. cd f ... ,r UJt 1
CLTI'I'[D I Small cmhroadt: rod fil!urc:"' n dh.
t:u:e uf a fubric from \\ bich the Ilu;m- lx-'t" en the:
ha\c bLcn dtppcd 1\n old and c'o:pe.tN\
pmccss rur WL::n mg finl' p.tttr.tllt" I rru.tdd nh
no" illmos e du<-J\d produ ed m
SwJt7..crland
.... r OC'K. A l:mucd ur H me I J 1nn
the ('utsidc.lildL' uf the !;ock (Set r-.l J
Cu n TJ E. \ ti( prime.! m the chrucn roh.: r
emblem of;1 club 1.3r group 1'h1.. dub tiL" cr<duro
to 1 he nwmbcr of rhc 18So l xetcr l nm tng
tt:uu lJ.xiord tn \\ ho rook 1h' !'Ofnp<:d b. nd'>
t,ff
1
h\.'11' ttl\\ 1ng ... :md tied them .1rot111d du:u nt"rl
in 1880
1 UB B(.)\\ f,/>TWlNG flO\\ flit: \mrri.'an IUUll gr\: 'll
to
3
b:tn\ mg-!thnpc btl\\ tic \Vluh:: \\hen nt \ntl
TA 1 LCOA T: hla.:k or mtdm!!ht blm: \\Hh c:hnm:r J .. Let
(: r. 1 c:- rop of p:t,gc lllJ Phtlrpp
1
rct
page 1 bJ.)
CO"- r \n \\Hlt '"''m f :n'
\\:lrtlllh 1)1C. fabnc. and \4f\ \\tth Jtl
COAT lE NGTI L The dl a_-.; me-asured trom rhl"
ofl:tr undcrrhc Cctllfi of the lu-.k l,f rn n -.1 f

1
.:rdcr s '""011 u: do'' 11 to thf' of \ center
bWiiliiL p:1gt:> 40)
1..\.lllAR :H1A.CIIFD HJRr J.'opulanzcd \\r\\ I
thts h n tJn..i.uJ slun "nh lmNI. fused. or
roi!Jr .ur;:rdtt.-d to .1 neck banJ
l..OU.-\R rAND The dimcn. ie>rt of.l collar
b.md m frum
O.ltl:.\R r n s '(r 'iLLlTITl> .._OLLAR..
\..(.'M flf"'l!. 1..'\ST \ LA Tor f.mn of n ,ftoc \\it h
waddt and length but wtrlr
timug he(l Fhr a I) \\:ldth sltoc
\\-llll C wt.h h hcd
CtlM OJNt. \n form of .:-Jm11tlg. r he
of arr.1ugmg 111 p.rrnllcl altgnmcllt n"lllll\ ing
.1010 \honer thnn dw desired lcngrh 1 he is
...
'imooth )3m \\C.a,ing
l.t.l':'IT:I l:.NTAl LOOK In counterpoint ro \ nwnn'
an Lr \Gt.: E f.t h10ns thiS \mcnc:.1n
of' P"cudu 1t.1han look a
han "hapcl} '"'d'-" \t rtr\.'d "llll 1:u:kcr and l:tpcrcd
cufficss rmuscrs
Ct1N\t:RTrnu Cl m Luffi rhar can buuon or rake'
c:ufflmk
DLl r \ medium .-.baJc ol

CORm:n <-TtUI'I \ t)J.lC of shirting fJbru: 111 which
arc bunched Ill \!V(.'f11) 'ip.h7ed im..:nJls
on the r.,bric surfuce. gi.mg a dimtfT'IIOII
l 01 UO\ N A bnd oi lc.nhc.r inr focm' ca1 m.Kk fn.i m
"phr horsd11Jc or from the mnel"hidr. horsl!'s
rump N11mcd for Sp.tin ''here i r wao; II
made l.mucd wuh 'cgctnblc mau:nals, &t LS durnble
but H np ,rau
{ lROl no., \ lurd W(":tnng cur Fll.ll NG ptlc f.1brtc
mJtlc: of rottcm '" iclt runkcn lme-o n111ning length\\ 1sc.
"><> ailed bcr;.tu e It \lo.tS ungmall) made and
" rn b) the hum"men oF d Hourbnn kmg of
I r;mcC' dm J of the Frt!nch n:tme of the
kmg dot lt Jt, n" p;tgc 1 Pi )
l RHI ;;1' :.... UI: N r A spcct:uor (.Sa p.t,gr 207)
( ., \r\< KCOLL\R \ !it)1eofcoiiJ.rfc.nurmg.Jhtglt
llt'Lk b md "uh a stcft" dosure. wom b) Ru".luau
l o ack rrt ups
\lft flufi} whltl! fiber.> irorn thL' :;cedpods of
th cutt 111 plitnt I ii'!it I nO\\ n C1fm luclh around 300
I l onon "i ltl.'iaderc:rl mn- aucl lit!!
I ngcr n fiber: thl" bs.:nct the coaun qualm
L ll"'h 'N fL-\:N u A Ntll spon shm f.tbr11.: an'' hi ... h
th IJCk rn-1 t Ffl LIt;;{, thre:td .m: nappa:l m crc.u 3
\\ lh eft.ect lah \ t db In oltd strlpd. 1r
pb d (Sa \\tnt r-an the Slurt fabn1.s" g.lttf\tl,i)
IT"'l"' r, \B,\k.DINE .A. duculc salk} !\mumh umng
I' be tt m fabric \\ tth .1 prepondcr.mu o( \\ \I 11
thf J In :t n n t\\ dl cft't:n h mg d
dugiu :d 1m r :\i,tl s
-.WI! L A 1!1bric- "ith a ,lt,agonall) src..ocp waled
'urfaccc.m<.l'lj b) rhc Rrand \HI r
thrcud<: TWILL IS une.Ot th._ three basic \\'C:lVC'.'i
\ 'ou Nr ' r r M: \ fM l'valu:mng rite qu.1l1t} uf
won I \nth gmJc..c; r.angmg irom 8o" or hghtr for
mtrinn \\llol to lo\\ cr ck "I ht ducker
)'nrn. rhc lowl'l' dw gr.tdc mnnbt:l': the lugltcr the grade
uurnhcr. r!w the ynm
Cuu:-n ElL,\ pi\."CC or lll:ttcrul or
thl" DaCk part or thL :-hoc uppon
1 he oilter lto.:l dw r
Ct\tJ){:,f : \.)nc orrhc llriii<IP) in i1
kuh ll'd or .;wear..:r. 'i'lri' s1 mtl:tr m
I II LINt: Inn WO\Cll flnril
l:l>VIiRT l li! 1\ rnidweigiH OVt!r\CMting
froJrn two y.aru" nf colt'lr!\ 111
W.\RI' and inglc color in gi,ing at\\ illcJ.
mot tltd ;rppc.tr;tncc. Derin.:d frl'lm rhc rrcnch romttrr
and "tth rllt' ridtng at worn br
guing imo or "coun:n .. where thl'
gaml' take:. refuge. Coven clorh" dJs)oic h:hlc is <1 tJ.n
with a cast Usl'd toda) in it.\ nnginallo hl
18 ounce "'-'ighr torTOT'COATS :ts \\cll.ns lighrer
W('lglu or spor1 tmu<ers.
\ \ R u r r r L' i\t
C/LJ/ht:s dl1Jl't IH<lkC: tflc lllllJl dJI}' JIJ<lfC thc111 d
I11d11Call dctlldtu/ respect. l ie CLW, lwwct'cr. do
Hwch /t1 lomJJh111d it. - Brothers

l nn COA 1: A knrl' kngrh. s.ltowcr ptoof fJ
fronh d wpcoat in \'FNITIJ\N I'Wl Ll. gcncrnlJ}' of :1
p:1lc color aud often with mmng '"h.ct coll.tr nnd
\\llh three <.1r four ruv.o; of.sttrchc.::
c&ghrhs of an mch ap.rr .n Jts slccn! cufi and btlttom
hem rl he: Slltdungs :tl"!! laold\)\Cr'i frurn flu: LIJIIC \\hCn
l"t!'infor\:erncm \\ J!'t needed tr;, protecr r hC' Co!ll cdgt.:"
from wear 111 rhc rhidlt
{ 0\\' IJ[I L \11 uld CliptC,.SlOII illl" .J I"Clllll\lld COrlll..'f
slun cuff
RAVt\T .\ rcrmfor:tmd3t<dert\cd iwm thr lench
cnmztr In the ccullll"} <.;m.lfian mut\7Cil.u
cmplorcd b) the fr1nch gmcnunc-nt wore
sr:an,. around their nc,k!\ I rcnclm umcn tlmk ur
thas kind of \\luch mtnl:acrndupttd 11ll'
fa.sluon to I ngbnl1" tlj{' ,snrf \\.ts tlllcd n
cr.tvmr It w;p; the {lflgm (If thl' modern nctktlr:
t IU rr Fmm tlw frf'nch' rb llh.'.rn1ng .. lll fuu
nnd curl dlri,_,c,l from Lwu rrisp111 \\nul rq><'
nnklf m.mc rl '" obtJmccl w uh ,,}ugh
tw1st >uu knnwn .1s pc t\\ "t pm Jlld Jlrcrnilld
nght l1and .md left hand rw1&red y tnt" m tht l-' 1 u
.!-1
DRL ...
ffH ;\1
1r ''as popul.mud for mcu&wcnt m the 1 ')80s b'

luls.m .. Jgncr <...,orgu.> Arm.uu \\ trt a t\\ all or
plau1 \\ \.'il\ c aep d11th!i arc dr) hght. and dmpey
I' en though th pm .trc \\oorstcd tt not of be l
1..1ualit} \\'t,ol can bt cuarsc to the ruud1
(. JU 1'1 l>l ( IIINL \ \C') fine lighrnl'sghr slk madt
'dth .a crC'pt.: \\ n h o1 ro" dl
\\AilP ,lJ1d CI'Cp< (\liJlH salk I IL11Nl.
l RJ \\'NI \ Pullm ur S\h!atcr wrth :t rouud nb kn11
nt>rl, '.uncd for lmn shins w:or n h) mcmhc,-.; of
rt\' ing team:. r" (Srt11......aq page 169)
CIUMI' Tlh' n.nur.Jl wmmc!ts fo11ud 111 wool iihc1s
L1111 f, )flit it)' of w:n snd Ka tc10 n II pcdor "ool TlrL
IliOn cnmp 1he fiHL'f the wucl
l.RI M"ON A Jlcp tn 'hid purpli!ib 1vd m a' 1dd red
t:olor.
l;R 11 1 r I.-"T A m:ucrial h:tnd nudt or m:tdune kntt b}
hook!'; hum rhc French word mca11ing "tu I!O(lk
.\n thar mhs otT on :m nrticlt:>
(If :tppard of\\ hich dll' 1Jl!llCrial j.; said lQ "crock"
r .A srirch M'lllt:tllliCS u cd
uhsmutc fur 1 Eli II'!, [hin
or ro frar on r he edge.
CHl>TCJI I he f.)fk or :l pa'irof Ll (lli'L'P; th-: anglt'
ftmnt:d h\ rnr11nt! of l'H.l lll' branclll'
' ....
CRO'I'CJI 1.1 Nl NG. t\ pk;,:c oilining pi:Ktd at t
fnrk ro co,er the junction of li:'ur
CROTl;J-1 fill CE , \ pkcc of 11 1111 to the
LI'Oltst'r.s :u the fork. whc.m the m.ttNi:tl i.'
not widt. enough
Gnu\\:--:: The rounded se,rion oi dw rop:mlc oJi
the skc'e
C RO\\ FOOT TWILl: A 'at in wea\l \\ ith a broken
t\\ ill efi';.n.
CRl 111.1> llfv.n.r:s [nglish ..;bng forbadlr m.tdc
bunonlwle!>
CUUAJ-: !I EEL: A broad low or w11h
a st:r:uglu brc.1s1 :tnd a curved back line
Cut r ::,: -, ht: rurn ... up of bot tOms. whtdl "c.r\,
oircn turned ttp in ond muddr wc-:nhcr. Kmg
J d" :m:l VI I (then Prince of\\ ale<;) s(:mcd dw f:tsluon
fCir ptnmnmnrl}' turning them up in the t8,Hh. PTU:o.
b thc.!:!.A\'lU 1-:o..W tl:rl!l rt)f
1 n:mstr t ll rn ...
CuM r.11 Rntrr-.: 1"1 \ of :-.oli\1 or paltt'rnto.l 'Ilk
made wirh or wil hout up.,vard-f:win!! ph;:Hs 111 pl.tco: of
n form.tl wai,tcoal \\ idt a Jinnl.'l' J:tckcr
Originollr a snsh \\urn in (llinJ1 kamarbarrJ).
brought tu the \Vr..-.t b} the Hriri:-h lbj In thr
cununct bund c.unc to the fore an aac soq thl'
\\hue pker. \Vhilc rh\.'! me'' jn-:kcr's popuJnril)
w:1s sh011 lived. ir did t'pen the doM for rlh
dinner J:hkct :tnd helped mak('
ounrncrbunlf nms<Jous. (Sl'f page ;..t6)
---
-
Cl R I -\l \ hangsng np Pt n t 1 1 t
\\ 1nband muill) f dt \:I bn th J
llmng. m W' a.Llcan hm\h r tht tr u
l TO I M.-'1. Of f Jt,. u rm pplJcd t
h' cortfonu h then l u
1nd" sdual ru mmcr' fl"'ct 'I' bod 1 1 [
lor tlu as Ill !' nJ
Cl.., \ ttnn tl'il.-d n m: l.u- b uu ,
\\ hach rht: numb r f 1 t: dl pt r n h rhr
1 tliU 111g mKlum: I hu m.ulun h vu g 4 n dl
JlCr mdt IS a J.:J cut ma.chtnt .md llw r ult n f. h u
a 1::J em doth
CtrTII.N!) llpr.,;tr lrutlnn
\\'ll\'cll orl:mncd falmcand e\\Jll i.IZ h}land, r
madunt:
(.t rA\,A"'' In cLn \\tar a JLJ\\ m trmn
wtth t:ul:; C'.tt"!nJing tO the bre..U. nf rh kn , m b k
and a cmc button siuglc hre:t h:d fr m ' rh n t iu.'ld
Tha coat J' cut .m.a\ on 4 mn hn
fmm thr \\:list rn irom tn dt Jr m ,, be W d. r
oxford &fllJ worsted wnl1 br.udoo or pl tn tdgt Jnd
\\ orn '' irh a m.atchmg pale gr.a} '' lutt: b If'' ..
CL TA\\Al' l..OU.AR TI1c formal da) " r shrn tJ
pomts th:u. coompanu d the f, rmal
cur:t\\ 3) tnsernblt. 'Iod::j) thl h.:nn ' a g ntiJt.:
dc.o;cnpnon fl)r an) lun collar" h , e pntna re
l'Xlrcmcl} sprc3d or upcn ( tt page 26 nght
phuh,gmph)
" !)'' I'OCKI T JAC \ 10\J1i!UI t) oth
pnckeJ .; 1dc-stitd1 rack runnmg fl'om ro c;1m li
:1 jt>t ted po lll rcmforrc tt.'l ends frurn bre.1J tng
..)uch :1 tailoring det<ul i!. cmb!cnr. t1" ul the fine t
qualiq in ll.and.madc dothutg 5 Dougt>l ... J a
suit pag{' 8C))
11 B l.AI'rL .. A pmmed sn le of I.Jpcl5 u UAII) c.: n an
doublt.-brenstcd coat:.. suit .ortnpcaJt
somenmt5 styled m smgfc sun o;nc:
dlustnmon pages and '))
\\ "h 1 BAND The first !odf suppomng bc:Jrlr "
trous\.'r ill\ emed m JQ)2 bJ \Icc tmp!o n I Ir.
n.mu:d n M Daks acrumm combmmg (bd 11nd
in mcmorplflm f.1rhcr ( p.:l!!C1i-)
DAND'I J.)M l'opubd) thought ro mritn r
cxlubmom m but m fru:t u onl) mean
In the Lime.: of ncau Bmmmd
<bml} \\':1 a rc:u:ttdll ng:unst lht: .. nd
mac::Jroni..; or the crghtee:u:h ccnmn , .. Jm h.td been
I )ppi:..h !bt'} om.l all bnund Brummd produced n
drc>sing of -uch C\:CfH} dtat n renun JJtnd
cxco replanng n '\\Jth nl:'.ltnt:"!--.:: "Hnplu:Jt\ nnd ,ar I
rnnc." ..
D.-\RT r\ -han -.c;un usro to gt\c requrrcd !.h pc t ... a
paniculaJ p.tn of garment: \ cur,).( h"h .. m t.ui
p:u:lancc O\\ mg it:' rumc u lt' rough ll
ft. h hcmg 'nde:- m rhe m,ddlc rh.m n1 C1th rend
l)[:J:ft">TAU:I:.R: 1\ ,.tifT-bnmmcod ft l"ecd T nh
c-ar tl:1p..; Lh:u are Lt<?d up an thC' crown n l m u;,e
pula.nzcJ dunng Q_UCln \ 'icrm:.t' rt:gn un comsh
c:.s&u "here deer st<tHting \\a.' t---opular
[lE \U BOSOM \ mort tan:hoo pLun Ur ph.arcJ
b sam of a dmt Oes1gned pnroarih for formal and
cmtfomul ua:Jr (.'i .l.) )
[)Fs 1M \ "tunh rwtll fabric 111 cotton or n
bfcrui 'f fiber \\lUl a :s.oltJ \\ARr and \\hitc Fll LING
{kmm ''a first about two hundred '\Cars .agtl in
"'-i unc" f and us n=unc a corrupuon ofru
:-..; mc.s. fhc \\ord 1s nnorhcr corruption of
G(JOdr. hahan s:ulnrs fmm dte port ofGcntl:t
tltl* t'1r:o;t w \\-C:tr the t} pe
U1 RD"' \ bo\\ lcr \ h.trd -t1m h ic.lt h. a with ,,
rounded .tud a SLJI1: curled brim "Ihking
tl!' namL (rom the Derb' .1 hoc;e .trc t:,t,tb"shd
.u Epsom DcJ\\ns ml-&0, it custmn to wear .1
bt "l'-"r at tlus .md other races m England lu th.:

L mti!<l t:;ttcs the sutTiut also h:1d
'' nh ho c parucularlr the Kcnrucb
In I so bnduwncr \\ illiam Coke (hcucc
th rumc I\alh t okt: or .. Bill) cock) commis,ioncd
}.tmc L.od the wnc:rnblc.! london hatter. to levisc
omctlung rugged fi.1r lu:; g:unckccpers, \\hoM" topper
kept gcmng knocked off,,hcn the) \\crC chJ!!ing
pqachcr Lad adopted nne of thmr 0\\ n cightCl'Hth
r ntun ndmg h:.1h nnd h:HI the protot} pe m.tdc up
b i1 Soutli\\.Hi; fell m.lkcr named n \\lcr. Tlw I I'CJl('h
lrke to poult nut dull 11 be: rightly btl!..:J a
hcauhcu lfl(C rhe n:tmc of the fdt 111akt:r
\\ ho budt r he lock protot) pe. be tore ht. :.ngl rt
1 1 l;()\\ llr 1 ock London still c:tlls j r a ( okc. (Su
p-Jgt: 88)
OJAG lNU \\EA\EA rccprv.lll\\t.':J\'C\\ith
n 11 table hncs th.u appear. Ill mall)' fabncs su..:h 15
w t,n [\\ cd anJ \\aNted sutrings \Vh;:n c.tiagon.tl"
1 spokton l 111 the rrade at i.: undcrnood to mt!:ln n
rs:teJ dodnnth J \\l"JI defined nght h.md t\\ rll face
uda :t thL" tnnd.:trJ Sl:"RG.
l1L\MO o \ m1ll \\c:p.;e that progrcso;co; JU<;t '\o far
mJ then rc\-Cf""e'i .tnd then l'C\Cr5CS tlu: TC"o crr;h n to
makt JOUI un c:tdt uthcr TI11s we.wc can
m.tk.c man dtlTl!rcrn on:s of thamond lake
udtl.l'i the phc.tsam !'i c...1 lor ultmgs and 1ackcungs
D1 til \ dctJchnblc bosom rhat could be
t\.cr the body of the that been me an 1l p 1rt
f \\.:tltl'r\ umfunn rn the 1
Dr \I Pt r The' rncal gromt: fonncd undc1' the iour
m h nd or \\ rndstr Hi'' ucclkmwJcdgc.tbh
( pag 167 .lll)
[ J N l R 1-U .. .K.E.T .st.( H XI 0 )
fll HARGf PRIN fiSt. fhi." prot:<!SS 1f unpnntmga
p n m n :apr 't ru !\ d 1:J I lm \"Hh bll'a hmg
m 1 The h mrcal dischargt:thc d c Lim
ere an!!th p u m
[ m \\nh p!!ddi thu
It pc I m c.-t\ Jll-mcr
r np 111 w \CD r 1lor ct:io:: P.i

I )O[Sh.f<". I hi.' lD!: ,jJt f the .. kan ol .1 dl'tc.lnrnb.
or used for t'r ... r lcarhcr goods 1\lso .1
ct .. _,scl} labn ... \\ ith 01 .laghtl) surfurc.
used for or .;porv:mear:
I 01 tAN "1 FrV \ full--t:ut slcC\C th.u IS \'cl') '''dt at
the annholc
Dt>SI G.\1 1 \\'1 f:p '' hanJ-s.-o\lrl:d !tome pun n'ccd
en b} in Count} Dor1lgnl
lrctmd No'' '' P\en b) :1 of the
f.'!bnc is irs cnlmful nubs.
l1l>t IH.l IHtL\STCn: \ JoublcdlCstcJ j.tckcl
'' 01 omer(mH C'ltt hl all(l\\' 1.l\ l.!rl:tpping :1t
irom ... lm.iug "irh tW-(l vcn ic:tl mws u(buttom anJ a
ingfl ru\\ of bmmnhole5, '' ith ustl:l!ly n singll' burton
nu tlw unJc.:rsiLic to tl1c fabric .. m d1<> \nhcr side.
Dot nu: L..0Ll.AR' .i\n old lt.'rlll for .l turnc:J del\\ llllr
fi1ldcd C'111lar: J.$ l)PPl'St:J to tlw upturned sltlglc
'' ing \."olbr St} I e.
DOUTII.E CUFP :::!ec fRENCil CUI F
DOUI\Lf KNIT. Double t:.Ked f.1bn( that lms the
of tWJCL"-knini'd jcrsc} lauric I)oubl<.>-knn
br re.1:.on af irs rwo ntcdlc con't rucdo11 is n
more doth th.ll1 needle or
wmcnrinnnl1cr.;c) i.'lhric un circul.tr muclnncs
n:D: Si!r p.tgc
DOUUI.I WARP Thjl) t"ill
ruetion lor lll!ckwcar .. '('ry iitll bodied.
silk rh.,t pro,idel' the grouud t(,r mall)
sp.IC..:cl and nil on r flgu rcs.
DJt.\P[ The m;tl111t'r in which a :lflllt'llt from
rht 'ihouldcr or wai'r ror dte Lngllsh dr IJ.1l'
(or English lounge) is au intcnclcJ "l) lc fe.uun.: 0i
men's j . cktr;, or omcrcu;HS pionecrc,1 i11 the carl)
b) the Pdnc(' uf\\alc!..,'s m:wcrrd: tll1lor
I rcdcnck inspired by the \.UARPS t 0\1, it as
h} acrms chc:-t nnd mcrthc
houkb bladt ll form tht vtt'lJcal \\ nnkkc; lor form
comfort. and the tmpression of rnu:.cularitY The
draped domin.ucd men' L!Uiorcd tnsh1ons
t1woughout I'HO.,.md 1930s llr.: word
from the I rcnch t!r.zp. me11ning Mdoth .. (Str llnugln,
hmb.mks und U,tr) Cnopcr p:tgc 38)
IN A
I ighteuiug .11 .1 pan or :t g11rtncllt
lo<,s(!ncssc.'l:i$t:" .1 drnwn nglu .. , ns ru
gather tlw m.uen11111ore ur lc .. 11poa1 itsclf.
DIU SS; Rdl-rs to tbiH or the l rotch fork oi n pur
l,( trou!irrc; \\here tlw m:tll' gu11t.1IJ.1 Me pl.1 .:-d Bclorc
bncfs '" lu.tl muST mc..:n wore smpC'ndcn; pulltd
the truU'mr hgh up mtO rl1c t..r'Otch IH!CC.\Sit:mng rh:a
rhl' uppt.'r thrgh .trc:t of a slim fimng tramc.:r bt:
dcstgnt.: I to acrommodnrc tlae or "le-ft cJ;-c, cd
(Mo'>t men dresc: on Lhl' left)
DR.I:S'i or1 f d\\<trJ \ J I I rescued tncn' s-tyle from
rt'i \ Ktora:m I rruglu mcm.tfm h) promuung
\\ h.n he fLnnt:d drcr;..o; 11oit roft \Hth
loungc1illlto; pleated frum culhrformal
Gto
1. h
ll't uJstlad of st4lrchca fnmt ont s "ir h o;r IT,., us,g
a:oll.u" dtnnt.r tarkct$ 1aslconrs l>.1cldl!'>
\\Jt'ih': tu full bad.cd tmco;
DRILl \ co tf'il.' mutcnal wnh .tl\\ ill "e.ne
t up\\,trd tm,ard lilt' left M 1 \A<..J J ht nJJuc
I rom ns u c f tr rht umfi.mn
of the 1\nuo;h lrln) an trop1cul clunarcs
DR\.>1
1
nu ddTc rcnti! in fndlC'i b<!f\\ ecn tit('
nW:t'iurcmtmt of .1 stm dwo;t and su11
tfOUM.!fiS. \\!liM [\ fmt lllf..!ll "iUUS :liT. i
ll' .Hrnnml""tm: 11 mdt drop tfi'r c:-.::unplr .:1 .:12
111 h com cJ.cq 311 I a indt t rwl!'t , ''at 'it) arhl<tlc
cut:!! feature .1 dmp uf indt("" or more
Dl' c 1\ mu:a dllrable J:tbt h. t:tiiiSlfliCliLn so called
be-t-:t\1 <' 1t 'ht!d:. \\,Utr.IJkc a du,k d, ,c_, Onuiu:.tlh .1
t>
pl.uu do.;tl) woven fitbrk tc,..CJnblmg, 1lu: liglmHtghr
cnm.1s U!>ed for sail:. Used sporf'menr. Jlld
''ark cluthc:;
l UT1-f.l. COI,T , \ thrl'l' quart:et hngrh. k10 l:: 6mng
tth a huocl [tst .. ntd wil h loop-; an,{ toggles of
\\Ood {II" horn In .t ''onlc.n fabrk,tt \\.Is
b) the lhl) al Na'} tl1c.' coat :m"1 bC"c.umc the
wear of IJcld Montgomery m
\\ \\ 11 In the 1')50!> th l\"'1 1 EAGl E I
J c.::tmpu i.1 luon -1111? name cOtnl'.S from the Hclgl.lll
'capon town oi nuf(d
"" \VtND. Ole l'RINCL 01 WAll" pages 64
and
DUNwAIU!:I: )\ CCl:lr"c 1wilJ tlriginal!y JH:tdc 111
:llld ukcnup for \\enraboard ship b' -.nibr"
iu till' Th, "ard nc1\\ rdcrs to :1
p:m of \Hlr k bot tom!' or jean!' in btu\, denim
DUl'IONI 1\ lu\mimts l::tbric 1111dt:
from 3 double srlk ilber from t'\\ o cocotm:-. nc:-.rcu
mgcchcr (Srr M Ullllllt.'rft in rl11. "SUit r abrico:" gar..: fold
page
[liON1; [so:-: A color likt> that of cbom \\Ood
-
[CRU \ beige or pale ran 'hade of ilk or
Iuten
EoW.\RDJAN: P\.'scripti\C of f.tshi\)IIS f:t,orcd b) King
Edward VII (reigned 1901 1910) and. oisub:-tqmnr
r.,shion_.. b.t l'U on rhc I-.. !>Ul,h a:. long
:tnd
I'GCSII r 1 1.. 1\ n off.,., hitc, the o( :111
[lSI NIIOWI R JAGl\l J \Vuisr lcugth j:trht of<,liH
drnb wool \\'l)fll b, (),,ighr !)
'
othLrs iu nllllt:'ln :.cn'tL"c in \V\\ I I Luct \:tfilllJS

of tlu :;cylt> .tdaptcd for civtli.m we.tr
J NO ._lfWI\Rf'
I N D ON r.Nn u IJtTI.:-.:G t\ rcnn w a \H':l\'t'
of rdtern:u ino '' hitc nnd color co w \ RP t bat fonn
0
1 minu .. culc cht.>ek effei"t. used in Cit" M IW.A \
lU OADC.l) n 1. and ux htltD drcs.s :;hirrmgs
J NGl N I I: RED MOTJ I A me-t if dt:ll .lppc!<trl' inn
parw:ular !KlSifiOillHI ,1 1H1l)
IN .. 1 JSH l.t\( J, The hsgh" t sed tn: u rd M J
1
Lt \\
1
rn cu:lu J\cl\ \\JUl u pt;nd.cr nd
1
\\.lJ!;tband curH.:' up"" rd m rhe b.1d fiOJ hug
ll >tch at tlu. C&: m-.r bach floC :.im fhr- tdt:Oll , , t
It oust"r \\ lu.n \\t armg a on JHtLJ\ :at
fN niL r \ JarL tU\>t btu
wl"'r ,f an t: liStgn un1l1 mt
1 1'1."' LLOPF lltc ouu:r heU f tl n , l!.llt' dt l
\l'>tblc IntO '> htch thr mt rluung .... 11
1 l'i\UH r t\ or orn.uncnt r 1 u n li
onto the: huuldr."T o{ a1 ganncm bon \\ d fr m
md rtnq uuai mns (Srr. s..1fa.rt Jda:l p.tg{" 1 olt)
I Rfif j n upngln <;LtUCC rcqumng ;I <ltiJJ tt-mng I r
the b:tck ll!ngt h and u lengdlL"Tlrn f u front
1 he opposite of iTOOl'1 Nc.
Dllll.Il \ Jnd.tl wnh ..l cnma ttppcr and .a n p
lor h' AS cmgmall v.um b,
dockv.nrhr m Sp:un and I r.mc
E roN 01.1 A R i\ rounibl i"l ul c<tll:u- .rcquu d ,
p.m of the Lrnn :tchoo1 umform ( fr p 1 :;o )
LXTrNSJON WAISTuAl'\D A bcJdr:' ,,Jc c J tr U r
rop \\here the left front of the \\.11 tband ext ruif n
10 fimr mchcs across tlte ro l.l ten 1Hth nh r
buuonholc and burtun r1r hook .md e\ 'm l tltl
of the front ( rr 11lu Uil.Uun
page 6! top page 2.68.)
l "'r H t 1 .t\ mall hole or pc:rforn mn m:tdc l rt"i I\'C a
l.1n or as m a shoe
r, [UT COI.l. \JL A drC!>S} co1br O:t}IC \\here small
huks nc situated nc:trthc edgl mtd\\il} up rhc coll.u-
an:ommodate :1 galtf or c.r colbr bJr th:u
:.Hom end The.st cmh are uswlh m the
of tin} ,qnan.:. or ball . \\lu!.!h c.ut h g.mn hL.J
"1d1 a small shme. md1 m; a cabochon rul'} 1r

r \1\RJ C Thl" comprt:hcnsl\i:' tt>rm Ill dtL'
crade \n\ ktnd of :uncle mad" from ;t .:umbuuucm f

tcxtilq"3rns Cloth "hirh r.mb nl"xt to fabnc m 1
dc..h ripti\ e bro!u.ittes: em not be u'){'d to denotl" l.ti:t"
carper. or knmed goods. bur all of rhr c .trc f:.tbna
that ts. m:ucriaJ., mndc \\ ith tc:xtJic fibe-rs or prn
I AC 1fhc hcncr lookmg or .tnt<-nded upper c.tdr of
d{1rh
r 'h"' l NC The luting or ('(Wcrmg JT the edge or ,nlwr
pan of n g.trmcm. I em on tht" lnpcl nJ .a
llinncr jlhcket 1.42)
J <\ltU: A rib \\i:;lH! li.tbnc\\ltbacotdltf"tflict
.tehte\ cd b) wtng pmt m rhc lllll"'it.. Ut. n ttl
rhe WAR I' I ht> oppo.mt- oi RI:I' usn! tor bpd
fonn:tl cYo:.-ning dodtl.'"' other trtmnnng'
and ncd."'''"1T. fr ongin:tll) a ht od \\UntO\ nun A
tcnn later :tnunl \ctlmg ( S pa.;c
r.-.t R I '1 Uoth a pbre otnd :1 dc.stgn The
.. m.tll. nts;i!cd r<:Innd ru..:kcd .>IT rhc .. llf cmLmJ
1111.' dcstgn '"a i:'olorful kmmng pattern wnh
no' band:- oi wlnr in a fl :t\\ 1\ oi conti:;tm:atJnn
gnn.st .:s 6-ltJJ\ bad:.ground du-
p-.utcrn \\ere first made b) the 1s-h1J crofu:rs or
renam Ht.:.-:Jnn-g that Hdm.m f:mncrs
\\ cr IIl a:onomtc trouble. the nuJ.-c of \\ md .. or
donned 'De .lS rhe Cilpi.Un of the R...wal and \ndcm
\.Jo.lt t'lub m S.unt \ndre\\-; m thl
.. ,\.:Jter arui the tdand -s cconoun into ronurd
( ,-r PrUicc of\\ ale<: page bonum nght )
FtiHION '\t \R mdi.!Iltunun;; dtt:
rull.tr Jnd sh uldcrs of a fuJI fa$h1lncd g.mnt'm
slu wm,g n was knmed ut t"t1C pien" and tll\n
r.;c;hwrung D1C.1Jt; the proccs .. of mcre:hing
or dt:cri!a. Ill \\ tdth vfk nlrred f:iliric h}
'onnnllmg rnph:mt.nl ot tbc- S
Tt:l.l
f.iiT Lcrm .1pphed m a culor clur:rernms It"
ongU1tl .:tfrcr ro sunlighr. \\:Her.
hle-.1dung. rug bc;1t. en:.
F ruOR.\ :\ {Oit fdr har idu crca.<:c and
61 roUL-d bnm It mkes u:-. n.unc fi-am the drama f"idcrJ
{r 1) b, \ actoncn 'ardou (.S Btddlc, pjgt:
FLU 1 "l\, C\\ mg one pmcc of m.ncnal.ll\ edge
upon another: thc 'it'\Hl tdgc being cithcr r.m or
rumcd m .JC@rdmg ro m.ncrial or the pw posl' to

FnTI}. , The pmrc..;. of combmg fi1rpanidcs or
ther fibers b) kndtdmg then fthrmking nuo one
mhd fC'Gl: of mat.cn.1l l"hrec uuncc" t.lffur make .1 hat.
[ka\ er w s once usaf but Of\\\ umsth nurn:1 has
l place
E fLUNG S \\EfT In W("..l\ mg. me prn mnnmg .1[
ng. lt tlJ rhc length ur \\ t\Rr yarn
ff"l rcnn appltcd w gr.u:ics of wool or con on
tn '"- mg. a'C l2.0s, I)Cl.'-
f I GERffl' LrNL.> n-1 lengt:h l1fa th.Jt CXll.'ndc:
t 1 th tip frhe finger ormrdw21 berv.ccn the htps
omd knt.-c
F f..,.l H P"'t. l reJung .t covenng t:hc surf.-tct"
unprn tt .:tppcar.zn c b bfCllching J1cmg.
pnnnng \ r '\\ tt It b 'S:tid that tC.'itllc
bhn .rrl" m..1d Ill r:ht fint'lh11l}'!.- .tS no ):.trd of doth
' ompJ trl} free from dcfcru
fJ lUR\H"c Bulk} h.tru:I-knn :v.c.ncrmadt:
f n; tuntl It r '' Jtl'r rr:pellcnt "ool ut Emq t r
d1arJa rt"liC oi \ran I land off the 1\J\ of {,:tl\\'li}
10 ltclJnd l)ngtnalh f-r: m In It who
' -.re h.tndknn swc.-:trcr!J m t p-;utcrn md.Jcaung
lr\cd..
I L\IR \ urpiu f v.adth pur m bc.lo" the \\'3l.'it nl
mnl"nt l gn .m mrcnu rul
t tdc r du; ct ttn \ !me bapc fmm \\;}1 l
J ( h l pAg1! lOS )
11 th \\ m i' r.t:" d lous 1 '\1. \ n
ll n r u u t.:d \ .trm LU phun art HII
rh :t pp<".d urfar c 1 tht' \\ :t
f \P \
nng fi r tht= m tth of a pf'\.d..t!t
rt.ARES. J;H l
ll..AT BT: \scat \Hth Jt:,.s fullncs than .1v1:rJge
the to t110 btg 111 sc;ar
fliGHT J \CKET \\:tl.H-IengLh jm:kct oCk.-ttht ror
other \\tth a shccp!'kin hn1ng and tnmnung
fuqcncd with a .,ftd, fibnmcror with bunons
rtOA1'': W\Rl' thr(!aili that arc 110! mechnrtJC'.aJ1}
mcktd uuo the ofjn"qU!lnk-d destgn th:Jt
musr "'cro Jloar- .:wcr the" If T on the
l:udt \.Urf:tcc nfa "ovt:n fubric
I L."' 1 RO;:o..;T A dt:Ntre in which a pbckr.:1 ur uf
[1bri.: .:cwcr.s the buttons or zipper. on coars.
.lnJ
FOH \chain {)J' riblx.H1.hanging from a pock.:r ,,,m:h
cunue.::ring it "ith an onmmcnt It 1:; wo1 non the
left 'Ide ( th,.- ,.unc -:id\. of whtch J man c.lfricd
his 'word. rhe ward1 was caster' to locarc '' trh hts
n)!lu hand than with hi5 kft:). (Su page S-tand 91 )
rooTWT \R The win an old boot or

shoe is tkd to :t hone} moon car 1S a rtminder of .m
and.:nt cu:-wm. In An1o Saxon th<" shoe haJ
4
the importnuc.: rhac a. wedding rmg dot:' m modern
Th.: would pass her shoe tO thl' groom
dunng the ccrcmon} :md he would st nkc her he:td
"irh it :ts a ,,fhis fururol! authar.it) u w;tcmng to
his pou;o,t' to w:nch her
FORK Str. CRCl rcu
FO!l.:'\fAL; r hu ll..:rm .tppllcd to clothe.-.. and
for on or form:tl \)CO.'iions t.l ikuar" or
clauter jackers for cvenmg: cm.n-..':1} t:oat.<: or oxford
ptckers ,,.ith trouser.' tor d:!)'IUllC
Fotn\'AJU> PlEAT A ItnU!'Cr pleat th:n fold, Ltcmg
fl} 1.;sociatcJ wuh EngiL'ih tail(!nng. ,tl> opp;; ed
to dtc rcu1 'i.!d plc.tt chlled Lhc l onunenul
plcnt. \\ hach hh:es u:m-arJ rhc pocket.:.. (Sur Errol fh n11
page 118.)
l OL LAim Ton Frcndunan aJoulanf L" a "'ilk
h:mdkcrchn:f fou.la.rd ,., a nnll dorh for
ned.:\\ or scarves usuallr made ln a laght .. !1k tabrtc
for multicllforecl parte' ns and often shnpeJ
hke ttardrop or. h,trru::t mcmt'S lnt:rtAiu,ed to
111 1R9o hy the partt\er of llrof'k&
r rr.1 ncis Lloyd. (."cr pucktt (qu.1rc

rOt R IN II.!\ NT) One of SC\Cf"'JI name-, for dtc -o;hp
knor (1hc knot- hCJng another) 11.' cd m kncn
tht! "long at du.: c.nd of the mnctcem h tcntUI) .md
.-:trl) '" tmtJcth fi10r m l!.md thought
to n ['('f renee to the 1-lnnd Club fmrudcJ
m f ngl111d 111 the Ct'ntucy b oung rncn
\\ho mdulgcd m cmn..tge r..ICmg nnd "ho Jdorrc .. l thr
l.at1d oHn01 for therr llt.:s rr c uld rd4 r
1 the I') pe ofknnt h) dtc dri\ c: r \\hen h held the
rctl1 tlf .1 pulled bl four hor>c m ,, m;anncr
re mbloo a knm wnh l"\\Oiung u.11hng cuJ
p..1ge 1 C6 and r6-)

l >.;c.
HI AI
I mo N I hl' lcat.hct UM!d 111 tht! lowt:r pan ul d1c
qiUlrtl'r or h:h .. k J'WTJUJl of thrt slwc,; l f'J'l R
l J'I:NCJJ ncn li.)M\.. A l"liiUI'IHg orgmng HOUH'rs
1hc .tppcarnnet. of normalsu.c th:u do nm h.tvt:
t unugh lcugd to make cuir \\ rdth" pmpt rl}
I RENt H L n ll1c doublt: lcugth turmd bJd '"uff
of a dn.:.; .. o;hm, fnst<'lll d \Hth l.'Uftlmks
I JU N II Tl PI' I. c. 1 hc fi111slung of rltt IJl'iJdtHnds of
!l nc<"ktll' \\ ith the '>arne as the 11IHIl of the- til':
rn:o.rc:1.l nj a h111ng: a mort.' {'Xpcur>t\e :tnd sJallcd
to :J ll(
I HI 'tllhmtr -,umng1> in till' \\ t.: rc
t:
laslu 111cd nfalooscl) wtncu. cnsp wook:11 1:1hra&:
<':tiled "tr\-.ru.- \s rt "dghcd I must q uunl-e' fl) rh"
\Jr.! u ,,,1s .:.trccl) light weight lull it\
nccuUIItt:d lOr 11.5 cnnlnc' nullt>d 111 8 to 10
ounCl' \\ur reds. dus f .. ttha of 1 It\. mud an high m asr
cloth lllUI.l'S a pc.r .tnt tO wnnkJ(' prone
tropic J! s111ri ng-.
I RON"I n Tht..: pleat.) in dt\! !Op!;idcs uf trousers
t h:n run an line\\ uh front (Scr. p:tge
61 )
C.AHDIGAN :'IT ITCH )\ h:tsic loop !ilrtlCillrC 111
buii..T nb kmrrmg r:. produced b) plain netdlcs kruuiug
\\hit( the rib tuck \t thc rwxt counc. the
rJccurs 1 hr 1:1bric h!t:- d1e ...ante .tpp\.araWt' ou
DLllh -.ides. rhcrc bting :m cquolmrmbcr ot 1111
d1c f:tl't' .llld rht- o)f l:tbrie-
FULL I term appliLd ru sweater .. and
.:;:munu' compktd}' knirtcd ro thdr lrubhcd
hapc 011 rho.: . .Shapiug j, done hy :1dding or
:suhrrncring srirchc:; to widen or the i.1hrk ill
dc.trcd The pt\J..:ess is used for .soc:k ..... ,
ttndl'f" rar. orhcr :sport:S\\ c;1r
I u ED COL LAR: .i\ ("ollnr b) :m inrl'rliniug
l:umnatcd through h\!:&t and w thl' top
and or the under.,idc Gbric to pn!\'l!nt wilrrng
and wnnkl6.
fU\1 NC.: Bondmg the inner and outer shell of n
garml!nr b) "dding rhc r.wo lay!.!r:- together The most
common mcd1od of tailoring co:u irnrw. wda). 1
intcrltuiug j, cl1:ued '' irh :1 bonding .1gent and
to the ttJuJerstdc ni the surftJCc fabri'-' wnl1 heat .111d
gi' iug the clmh more sh:tpl' :md :-.tabtlir).
l11 e:-;pensl\'c dotlll'!ii r''") se,tious ,,.,,nld be
sewn togctht!r b)' h.iiiJ
l.:n\ BAIUtl N E A t\\ ill in or t\h' pl)
comhtd )':tl'll 'onu.tinte" :1 thrl'e harn<'S" \\l',l\l'.
l.h:tJ':lCl<'ITI.c.l b)' di.tgunal twill line" in eitlwl' .1 .J) <)a'
\\ Hh mort.' \\i\RI' tlum
WII Ar tightly WO\l!U w make it .1lmost
\\:ttc pronf lJsu::tll} in :.olid rn \\OOI
(Jr wocl blL'ml. thi' ddicne but luxumm!>1) sdk) <lc.rh
ts popul.tr for mtdwcight :-uittngs (,f (.'lrr
DaHd Nivl n. p:tgc 114)
GA 10511 l), crshoe of or ruhbcnud
\\llh .1 rubber sole dos!'d iu front b) a z1ppea 01
buckle.,
\ d:ul n!d qm..o u.-: nnn raJ u d
11
th.U I Cfmpart.d Ill ,fur tn th fruu f ;t
r
(St<.c bou1 nru rrc pagL !f ll J
(u\U . t 11u .p;u:mg fun nt"L'dlta fa krum
1
tnJLhmc luch the- thr lu fin
11
tlf t h\: I mth .d f.ilin fh h1ghc rrh g u r numb r
of needle per gJ\ n th thmn r rhc fJbri
LuH Nflll HUITPN llutu. non J \ pi lt-1 t '"
d1c opcmng madt> b) th ufl illt.<l hm nt t d c
tJpt:nug Jun sit C\c
<.;u.J.Jt c..HJUU A lu\\ .murt 1>ho \\Ith (l dt-d I n
thai pass Llrrough ltatllcrluop m.srt>;td ut lt:t ::md

bndward :md fon\ar.1.1cro \.lh Ul!ilCJ
smn,tunrs lll!ln amund rhr nn' lc A L-liW"h re .. t
1
tht } Jti(.' U<>IUlll)" mJde \\ulmus n tongue II \\t1. r a( .1
tl'lnguc 1 useJ. "' ll"lLlll) ftmg\:d TJ pte em ghillac
IS named afrcr rhe hrgbland s:cnaJJr'> \h Yt rt tllt"tn
viM I' I JIRBU A t H."tcd thrtad uJublc tor
makmg r:mcd ruuund h.mdm;u.lt buu th I
Gl M l'J NG 1runnung and c..rmult.mcou!tl de.
the edges pscccs Int >;ho maler J !> tiJ
\\ ith a gimpmg madunc: m ,,Jud1 ld.'J t l \\Jth
\'.lr"lous panem.; .md d{'1;!gn can bt- fined
GINGJII\M From thL rnfi?11ft vludJ
bcc:unc dte h c nchgumgan. A d} cd m thr- \.un fi bn
:111 l"X:tct rcplicn cf madr.a" constmcwm n a m.tm
t hrrnds in WI FT :1$ m rhc \\rf\RP GeuLr.Ul .hown m
ched:s or pbuk (Set Da\ id Nl\'en pngc 20'J)
EN I'LAW A four b\ fourand '\\0 b\ t\\ tWlll
tffcn :in both \\' \ IU' I'ILLJN(, dtr< u n' 'fhr
['lncy owrpl.:tid uf GLJ NL RQ.1 Ht\R1 l'l.Aill
mi :-.ing ill n glen pbid (Scr .:!.h8}
J.i.:,Jl.JRQ_U !I ART l'LAI D .\ \\ ooJeJt or\\ nud <Uitmg
or ruatenal mndc'\\Jth the c\t:T populllr {!! u
plaid wn h nn ,o, erpl.:ud effect '' e 111 both\\ <\I, I ;znd
1 I LUNG direcuom Tlus i unc of the.- dt trt t dud"
onguutll) :.doplt?d for In en \\ear b) nmcwcndt
c..:lltUI'} l:tndO\\"lll"n> It \\.1 a i;t\ uf
Ed\\ ard \ 11 I \\ he.1 he! was lhc Pnuu: of\\ 1l " (.vc
rhc I-abril-" gatefold)
:o-;ATI\ E .1\n cxprc -.ion coml-'i m
Jur111g the and 1q1os mc.uung h' dopr the
indJgc.nou ... dn:-....s of ::tn} lncJI r or the
1-u rc1pl'an it mcnm \H'rmng rhC"co;padnllc f the
rho! ber. tot tl.e Bn qut
loc.rl or 1 hl' seaward o:h rc of rhc: Rt\1(r:t, r \rnenrnn
ir tr:tn:-.hucd trtW hke f ..anbbt.Jn td ndcr
of lkm1Ud.1 .md 1
GonGT -..C'nm thu JOmnhe J:t.;ket 'colbrm bp
( '\u pages .p. and 43-)
l.l RAIN The marL.;n\!' that arc left un the Jlmmod
"'
..;urf.Io. r of a aftcr rhc r<"mt)\ .d of h. 11"l .uh..r
\\Hh 3 p:m"rncd sur.fac(" pn: duud b' pnnnng r
cmbu for footwear
G:tuNITI GRJ\'1 A darkt h .Judt:
gr<tmtc

Li 1u h . r: ( <.R \l) Thl' \;f.;l1..: of doth ,,Sit "ornt'"
from loom pnor to bleadune d) mg. or flni luug rtw
mmw from rhe Fr.cru:h "hu:h to
n:ftrtt naumtl illL:duth bctnrc tlni,hutg btc1
nngltctzafto -gra} "
GR! "t[ A ned,,\ car fabric wtth n gau?.cltke
qualm nude on .1 pcqwrd loom'\\ nh rhrcads .. --ro -.mg
from to ;t black silk bee \\Orn in
r rnncc- during rhc: caghtcenth ccmuq Fsrs1 \\ o\'Cll
m halt \)II h:md looms cltc sumplU\JitSll:.-s
of tr!o open tcxmre has c:-rnb!Jshld dw; !ioltJ rnlor w
"-' u t:.tplc 10 the ui the "'''rid':;
tl cugno!iccon
Thi dulled, nL -.ilk jo; ll:>a-1.1:' .m

.tltcr:ll.tti\S: to the himc.r:11 ttin for trimming 011 loJrm.d
t'\cnmg dorlu:o; neckwear, auJ It
onron:ual in the \ges :111d gained popularit) in
f r.tnce tlk rarn \\ ns 10 m::tkc 1:abric. and i
nntcd fur n< pronounced F rib cffc..:t 1 ike
FAILLf the h:t'm nnpltcs n hc-3\1 or dtickgr.Un line m
the cro dtrccuon of the gooJ, (Src p.tgc.. 2.4;.)
lrl ARU l.-0 \T cwd111n O\cr..:oat p-atterned after tltt
Jon r coat \'>i1rn b, the grcnadli.'T guardc; m It
tc; color: double-bre:tsred oat with n h:tli bllr.
an m\ l!rtcd pleat from benn.'i'n the houldc.r
bl.ldcs r dtc homm1 hc.:m. and det..-p folds :1t rhe sides
l ;uM "' n L A name .;ometimc.." applcd m :a
JOLLARD R!t" tlk t$lcft ,t.ghtl) h::u:sh by a cc.n:un
gum c.\udcd b} the tlk\'.orm a-= removnl lt:.,t;'it'll"'
\\CJgln ,1 gum mill[;, WU\Cn wirh parr of rhc u
mrnct w be boJlcd off at'tcr wca. tng Tht' proccs:.
pn1ducc :t [C . .'\tlli"Cd surhtCCSIIIliJar to d1c fccJ of'
Jrh.lcnr madcltr
rt: M \HE \n Qld fa!ihionl d tte'rm for casual
"rth tlHI.k nabbcr
<.rl "'i \..ll 8 ( HJ K. Tht" The
( o1gach from thi' Clbpool Jre.t m wesr of cml ..md
\t nmund 18-4. h \\i:t5 nclopted b. an .\mcrtcan
dub ..ts rhetr lwl:ry and the n.1mc changed Its
W .\R I' ..utd WEfT ttre gcncCIII} arr . .mgcd in rhrcc colors
\\,men In .a l'.\0 up f\\O dm-.n rwtll. An d1cck
\\olth row nf altcrn.mng coloro; and, uo;unll) n
\\h tl" background l 'rd tor sumngs sport ,.tckct!i and
trou t:N (c;a ]tntrll) Stewart page LS9)
{,l N F I .... r 'rigmalh, :m t rrr.a thid.ncs<; of r.1bric
.tdded ro llt'tJtrjiJzc du: 1mpaa of.J recoil on
the hoqrmg iad d Nownd.t)S It 1 .Iddccl a.:
1m ph as .a ...!cn,ratt .. c ti. otrttre
r{ "U TAl \ d.uk gray r;hadc. stmilar to ,h.u:.i, or'
cl c nu. r.U f gun b:trrd
bL S)f r \ fahrrr M'rtton .u the !fC.:trn of n
&J1TT1cnr to til " L"Xtr:l fuilnl:" forc..t.'S} muv\!rnent and
n nc ac :.1 rt'tnf"'lrCs.."Dll"nt \ho :m cxna l.t)Cfor
p c f cltd m rrcd 11t rhc borwm J tmng oi
!ird ">C;un L r rernfor m m fnt U<;e of tJtc gu t, a
,f htgher qualm, 11lurr makmg ) the c ntcr
ccnon i \\ cll IT .1dc t h:t:t the
l.u:k i n I and UH.dc rncmh th ,_oil r JOimng the
from: bJ J t dt nell end
II .. 1 \t;._l 1"; "llxk" is !;hon for
dcsgn:niu_t! .t --rtdtlll hem;'-" il'r ordiTI:.tl') rond or lmdiC"
parh riding r.uhcr dmn for rncing ur hunung A
longer than tweed Jacket f(,r rrdutg :.1
lmr.;;c \\ ith 3 wa1st lmc n three c.1unncr inch
more "'spring" or llaJc ut the hip ro for\\ 1ddt
\\hen sitt mg .1 :t hor:sc, ,1 deep ccntcn nt to open
ll\ 1.'1" rhc. huN' (the original!i had \v:tterproufcd tntl
Jinrng). thn<.- nr iOur buttnu from siH1TI lapd..,
and .slamt:J ,jde O.tp Or'\\tdHJut n .;l:tlltr.:d
t iLkct J:,r C:i"} The h.tcking stlhoucm
n':ltl} iniltll!lh.Xd rile urlugh dass f nglislt
t.ulur111g (Su p:tgL! 1 OR)
11.'\t;._I:-:G roc"rr ,\ htplcqJ flup po:kct .u dt( :-.idt of
.t r:H:kcr thal i!> sl:tmcd or cut 011 !l an .mgle .. '\\ trh
the Jbp ou .t hacking j:Jckc[. {Sa p:tg .. 88 top)
f I,\ I RCLUlll 1\ stiJ{ wit'} f.1bric Usll;lll) mndc uf a
couon or linen in lhl WAH.I' aml hor.sch:ur (uc
in rhe horse's JnJJlc) in the: rtLLI.NG .lS .111 imctlamng
or .sriffc..nm!! mar..:rial. Tc.1c.hy, mohnir ol" forme; {tf
hur-.eh.tir an tt_,cd in the filling.
II '\I Rl.l N STRIPES \ C:l") llllHO\\ stripes in one rhrcad
Lhack11e.s:-. rh:u resemble IUlirmadc brwca\ingsinglc
threads in color to wntrnst with the b.td.grow1d of
...
\\llrsttd WOll or corron shirung !\lore '-limcn.,tonal
th.m a 'oliJ. tlu: tlnl. [1ncr li11cs :;cr uff r hl \\ cme1 a
\H!II as gi' Lug ltim a $liglulr dangatcd l'lli't (s,, hirt
''' bNttJilt;)
J Lur UACK t\ rtwasun.:mcm tltl' widc:-.r pan of
the jackc1':; bl.aJ"' (rom rlu: (Ctll't sl'um 11th('
puin1 whcrt rhc :.lccve"s back St'Uill1!1H'r"C\7ts the
armhole.
II '1 1 .st 1 EYl: rhl' slurt or- oahcr g.tnmnr
cxtcndmg .lpprl1Xi m.uel} 10 rlw c I bl >\\ (.:-u tht! Duke of
\Yiudsor. p:1gc 76)
tfALF WAIST!\ t.tkcn at dnw;uo;rJmc
from thl' hack cents:r to the coat" from
cdg ..
HAlF \VJNn OJL A kuot brger tlt.m 1hc. four rn hand
but sm<tllcr dutn .t full \Vim:J,or: ttcd in the manner of
a loci. knta ''r!l paru.tlluii-\Vmdsur ktwt
IIANI'I liANIH.L 'Thcwudu fecf<,faf;tbn-.. \n
c;.;pcaten"t'd tndi\'idual c.m dcrerrmttc (pJUIt) nnd
ch rmuc-1 of a fabnc lmudlmg. pnll111!t w0kmg or
tt
I IAN I> nt OCK.I n nn-: term .tppltcd m rnatl"nnl pnrncd
b, hnud "1tl1 11 or .t wood metal

I IAN ltNCKI P rite tcnn l'pltnl to lt:md Mhclung al
the <>dgtc of 3 jackt"t l.tpcl vent pttckN ot t rou cr
.nus 1lu: fur top qu.llll) tlalort d
dothcs page 2t;)
II!\NL1 ROLJ 1 n HIM handkc.:rdurfor
orhcr arttdr rollcd und tJtL .. b) band In o1 nccktt(;
1 he c ndc: fol ... icd tutder a qu;>tnt>r i Ill h .tnd
Stttdh:d h) h.1nd producmg n oft mil off.tbnc ltdd b
&rn:gu1. r sutclh' found only on h1gh qunlir.,
G L 'J:ot
)nr '"Nl.
fU M'\ N
II \1 l)W n 1 N ()J1 .1 lot Ill 6per.1h d h\ hand
ami four I he firu,.;hcd fabm: .. sud1 as a !1o\ccd ur
lmmc'>pun h .., IITC'gul:umc, th:n t.nh:mcc tl ..
nddmg har.:tctL"r:.tnd appcJI
II RM<JN1 llu:: plc.a!'lllg cfTl!cr JdllC\ cd b) tltc propL"r
n lnt on shtp bt'l ween aud courd m.u hill of
f.tslunn dct.ld" .md m the :u nl

1> .Ht m:
II \ltNI 1 he iramc on a loum thar ts ro
'it'p.tr.uc rile WARJ' fHlm the 1 Ill IN{. ro .11Im\ th\:
slnlldt. w p.1-..., bct\\CCil tluun There .It'"' .Hil'.t'it tv.o
un .1 lnnn1 dabor:nc \W.l\'t); I'('{!Ulrc
mnrc tiH' c.x:nnpl, ;t b.r,r .. cy, lonn 1 C<jtlll t"S
iour
ll...ruus 1\\ IJ.n Ill\ rradcnwrkot\\lnJicnlll.lh'tl.ll
"f1Ull, drcd .Uld \\'(Wr.,!O b) hand hy fltl' of
I Ism, nnd I P\\ is nnd d11:r dw Outer
islnnd:; of
II \1 IICI\\ , . tile l1kt. bow on rlw hat's
J
msJCic .. 1 from rhe dr.m:otnng rhat
mtd Ill nr tltP hat tJgJH Oil the hat bo\\S
areal\\a)c; \\Orn ou tht.lcft hnr a remmd.:r
of the d.tp \\hen till" plume or lr)\ c rokl'll \\ a1> "nm on
tlw heart .. lt for 1(\\ nnJ awH) liom r he SWllrJ "ide
f(lr .. nfet}
-----------------------
Rl ' LI. nr
Cft1thl':' lh11t 1J'C IOOirendy tli"C dcstint'd (0
bctOIJlc old 1 heir t fmc. Toda)' 's pencoch is
/OJHOJT01t' 's j'elllhcr duster. - Hn.>t1hs Brothers
-
llfAD Ft1ltWARD. \Vht.n a human figure\ head i'}
earned tom .trd slighd) fmu1 the normal 11'-'tltlllr
require.:; an .Jit('r:nion llf "horrenmg the p(k!!t's colbr
:tnd :t 'lighr 111 ils bJck li>ngth
II EM. The llnish pru,fuccd hy turning b:.1d. rhe r<l\\
c.dg<' of a m:ut.:ri.JI :md :-c'' iHg it br hand or mac hull'.
III JUUNGIJO.Nr A ribbed rwill \\e;l\t' in \\hllh ;m
cqualmnnb\.'r ,,f rhrcads right and kft to 1{'1'111 .1
:tigt..;tg p.llt 1't'J1 :>imibr t.l rha1 Ll( a fish\
(Nc1rr h J\ 1111.: nc:m lluriug). A puptil.t r tor
clmhing (Sa Bubb) p.1gc I
J tusr. Su H.I'-'L
J II Gil 'iHOUlnt It\, ,\ fipurc with ... houldcrs
squ::t I'Cih'ss 1S greater than the norm.
ll&GJ 1- W...,\ n R I' \Nl s Jlams th:u ch on I) tu :t pmnt
:1bm c t ht: ankles
1 ll) llllJJtl. \ fam:1l luuking snfr felt h.u \\ nh u
t percJ crm\ n .md :t edge. bnm In hla.:-k
nr d.trk blue 11111.1) \\l)rn \\ith .1 dinnl r j:tckct m
t Cl lurs \\ nl1 J hu inc o;uJt a l
King I d\\ rd \11 ,-Jm brought n b
W I o ndnn a ;m nhcrn:nJ\ e fonn;J t '' n h t l r
popul:mt.cd Ut tl c- 11.)-JO;, b .. Bntnh Tt. gn rn.1n
(I ru smmr 1111111 u-r) \ml!Ofl} ldrn ' 1 1
I IOP\AC:l lNG Ungmall . .1 I " 1 1 rrlap (;iffi
b} thl' prd:cn of ..1 gc n -raJ dt nJ u t ,f
luo tl > \\ n u falm, m .1 b. ili ' ur i r I l'a\
1\\o tltrr.ui.; ufbmh \\ U I nu \\:ARI n t 'th r
mstt.:a .. l of mtl} one u mg rough t turs>d .m1 J uurl
in :.utung Jac:kctmg, and othrr "Pf n. c: r
J IOl "ND.c> I Ol.lTJI UHCJ;. \ mrdmm t cb .J
p:ttte.nt \\JUl JDggcd eJg ., rt 'lt"mhl111g th 1 e ol dug
rootl1 and 1s not pl"rfcul) quar< (St't' 1 1 ,
I it Dl.lll RS T Jf I n .\ fO\\ n 111 'orl [ ngl .d rlt.:l 1
tlh cemer of 1 cncr Brirt"Sh \\it.r'\too h un
mdu'>r 'l
IIUD'tUN UAl <OAT '\ doul fe- \H t. I n
ou 111 ''hire or v1T whnt. "uh m r thn
\\ sdc colortul huriz<Jnt.JI 5trrpe.-. amunrlthc h \\ r part
II UN rIll G REJ. N A deep o;hru:fc ui green v. J th L1 nt
} ello\\ c.ru.t
Ill.: NUNC.. l'lNI-i. Nut pml. but ':iUftt:nh Jr
of !\C;trlcl <. )rigmalf) all [ng!.'!.h huuung raghb
b(longed ao rhe kmg nnd those t:akmg p rt 111 a hum
h:1d ro W(:;lf the kmg\ lwC'n \\Inch \\a.! '-1rlct I 1e
.lllthcHtJC huntmg piuk dn '" &ud tu t: lffit: fr.om n p o;tc.
111.ule up of malt en nus bcctiD. mtxed \\ tth tm tn aad
IN!.,.\ 1 :s rh'-' t!\'lr:J cloth lei1 m $c.:tm "Ju, h en.thlt:
e11fnr.gcmt.'nt. ornettnw' ailed
I A 'I\ I ., he distilnce m from tht" aot h
forL w the bl1ttom oft he t \L\:0 cant on a
glon ti1Jt sewn ia!tidc out
IN -uu: TlK' foundnuon Jf the a p1ccc ofle: the:r
ben' ecn one :md me L\ utth ot n ntch tlud
cut to conform cxnctl) ff' the 1zr- and lupc ot thL
bouom of the LA.,,. of "hoc .\)o;<1 th p.m t the
between tihc '' El.T .md the outo;ulc
I The bnd2c mer the tnp .of the foot
[ S 1 A R I !!t. rrotn the )ralt6111 rerm for In umg
"utl:t) .. !\ knmcd d!'"'S" Lhat gw the cffil.f oflx mg
inlntd in rhc p:mern m '01tdcoiLlrs,
.'thO\\ Oil or tJn iabnc
IN 1 1 IU LNT ,'\G. A doth llf ntJh.'ll.tf o; \\'11 her" 'Cll rh
btx-h cl:tgannou and the expa,t..-d utstdt
"' 'L h _;
fi,r sulfnCS! "hnpc or I 110\ ant1. w .1 t e pllYil' w
nm I oftell WP\ J Dr al \\\')OJ hJcnd
instdr the.' of thl' ric ro 1'C ll bulk .and
,\ tcnn appherl u1 ad "t'h kmncd t bn
produ\:cd on :1 circular 1ulllung mnduur. lmcJ "nh
long :md short
..
1:--.1\ E.RJ.;I. s \ H.mn in nonlm .t .. mbnd wht<n
rcrnpcr.nurc<. dL'm.'lnd w:arm pnnL nts Tht> Jt I dut
n:uue j,. a brea.o;u:d. (o:lt '\: Ut pc.a cd r
not du-d lapel .md .m Collpc ndm!! Tl' thl"
c1 bt,-.w,; n prmci:uon LO the ann!> .. n.t upprr In
u '' J a fn\nnh: of thl \ ICtnri.tn tr:n clcr In
Lbrk omtOilfh fubnL"' n uao nn dLgant
at.tt I ilrc the DEER: T \t.kfR. tt b .d o
po...-ryphall '' ntt h.:rlock llolrnc
l:-o\ tR1 fD rLL>\f A pll".tt \\ith fullnt on tht:
du: of 1 ho.x pl .. at (S G fitzp.unck s brcoJ.s!
pock<'! ro-)
The rmrupb or rctlc.:no.n of nutltJpk
.mmnl-d b\ u.Jng .t \.lncn of ... ol..>r.i m the " \ R I'
.mJ 11 u 1 NG 1,.1f a fabnc Gnl'} Cbopcr\ uc page S)
h l r M .. L r 1\Jtothcr rcnn f(,r t\mntcn\ naturnl-
,ft utdcr f.!shron L,rc:u 1 li)O, .t:. b) Bmt.,ks
Jnd ftmntf un . \ mcri.;.a '.s h'} L.:ague college
cS \ kmd .. ,f in whtch rhe
n .. Hur.tl \\ tddt houldt rs '" rnughr h:mgmg . tn,l h.lS .t
LL.!Dtl'r n:m Tnt. trou.:oers .UI.' piJin rrom .md qraiglll ..
hangmg nude\\ lthcmr l'L[AT' 31 f11t: WAISTU \ D
I \.SllT ()ngtn.tlh a ruffie on the t'f a m:lll,
Jun .1 nf oi ned.:l\t:ar for fommhnar "tth n
nt:db.md nnd ruffic., hclo'\ u
h Q.l o\RO amcd .Ifit:r joq:pb l:tril' Jacquard n
r rcndmun bom an 1 \\-ho In imcntcd .1 lonm
th It u;;.....J CJrd-: ro 10 dmh
pul n 111\'ltcd lum w P:lns ttl detllllll.:otr:'ltr.: it. and b)
t )6 the:- I "'tn \\.tS p;arcntcd To&n laCC}uard h .1 rcrm
J to m} mottf p&Jttcm or inmcarclrwovcn
I:Wnc: lrom ;Ind brocade to cl.unn .. k .md
l\M \H "\ HORn ',honsen,lmg.+u nm.l dugh. shorter
rhan nl:HMUfJA (,H('RT::t fmt the snlc ,,j liNts

(! un I on the tslJnJ of ltm:.uca m rhl' 19.!0'1
J \ I'( \ nc.:k\1-t..'.tr fobnc \\110 an arr<mgcmcnt oiilue
fi nncd b) ltght mcd1um and dnrk haclcs "rn
s(\ n I r
IF 1 \ \ \\.11 t length Jac.k<'f at den rm or otltcr
n 11l tton \\lth p;aocl sut-chmg and chest bctght
P tLh pOd> 1$_
JrR"l 1 fl r 11 \. kmucd f.tbri.: made from h-'p\ rll:u
tnt nne ...It 111 unc dtrl.s..'"t"ton \\ tth the result that the
[ hnL fu, 1 pp r.mrc un the .md a\\ !toll}
dtfli r m rtt n the rc' <-'T e 'itdc m.1dC' of wool cotton,
'IT hi nd offtbc.rs: for c;portswcar: :tth:l
mdcN ar h dcnn n" name from lhc ,,.f:tnd
h n. .ulu Jar t\\nrt: inbnc
Jfn f Sa rf'(' In tJI\: f rem:h jrttr. lO ltu,lt
ti1rth ut tn throw ut Th\! tnrlor \\urd "tctrtng
tnl .ut t 1d t'T prpc dat h t r otltcr tn:.ttci'J.J! .n
r J.. m h \\ln,g th Jrt.>dgc Jct:rmg.'l m.l) lt
pi l,u H p \\t"ff olt m UOtn tf pu.:-kcr
\Vlw:n I' d' n th td dtt' p tcr 1'1
d uhl h m1 1r duubk JCttcJ p.tgc. 8b )
}1 ,, t R El r r ' \ n.un gt .. '11 bz t;ulur t(l thr.-
hu n pl;a l d u 1d th l.dt fl1n.:p;.trt ol a man
I br: .u r w;u tcn.1r o .t t , keep tlu:
J rtf.'.Jth r p fmm d v.m,Jrd
rJ'1J\ :\
f luc 1
n n m 1 trt ut palm1tl .e rrcc th I{ .t\c
IJ fth d tt tre pl.utcJ rnt , h 1t In \\ n
as Pun,unu h:u' i\1-o, n bro:td bnrmned pbntcr f.
of hat
ll\'1 In \ n:trru\\ .-.lumldcrcJ smglt brcao;u:d J.ad.ct
wnh .1 four bunon fium .1nd snug iimng paut an)
garml'nr or dressing St) lc tending m p.arod) b)
C\::Jt'''Cr.ltlon the In lc::tguc lntlk.
oc-
Jomr PUR. BOOT .\ ll'ath,r bont "Hit a strap and
buckkl:t tcncr or clnstic for '' cnr c!ipt'C'I31l) "ah
lc:HH!I'UR\ {<lt:L' page q.)
In P 1 r l't.: 1 ong ri,ling truuscr.s t1:u"d owr 1 he lup.s nnd
lllll'h'\\ liom knc\.' ttl .mklc. llr.;t 111 f:11gl:tml wltc>ro.:
1 her ''err frmH the: :j i .HL' o( hptt r. I n,Ita
whnsl: loc.1IS' J:n ured rhcm over tlu. snJ;'lrl('J:. but more
e rrort (()Jl'ollrning, brt!'chc .... nnJ li.!".ltrtl k";lt her ri.lmg
r.Jgc: 4. uppt:-r nglu picrum)
Klr t\ llmdi- UrJu \\Ord mt.aning .. or
'\:.mh-(olt,rcd .. firs! khak1 dnth \\J."i
so.tkcd in mud and trNlc:,i ,lrr Khaki h::t:. conw to refer
ro bro\\ 11 '''11.'' and oll\ t: \\ hach 1mlir ..
h,t\e ltntnd ucoc-fulln reducing\ ''ihilit) .tg.uno:t ground
and folt.tgc lu the nmt.[cemh ccntun. the Brrttsh tn
I ndtl "ore rhe firsr khaki u111fnrms.
K 1 LTII \ sh.m I tougue of iflllgcd lc.1t hcrthnt L'- drnptd
c.wcr rhc ino;rcp ,,r J shoe, cmering tlttlacc." :md t1'Cict
k:IPI'I.n. A wadc-wid!h twckuc dwl bccum"
hbllJ(wahk in the :o.i).;tics th:lllh LO ;\Jidud Ftsh l'h<.'
hu, a of the Jt-nm n rrcct tn
I
l.undon, Titrnbull aud Ass\:'r. "hl't her
dJc moniker came from n:tme nr rhc tn!"


'\ ltkh rl'"l'tnblcd a "ktppct" ll;,h
K.NI E "1 ht knn llf,l rrou::;er .. wht h 1.
<1Ch'fl11ll1Cd U) hah utg Its i n'>eam and dtt'll mc.t rmg
t\m m\;h.:s nbuv<' rhc resulung fold lwe
Loose p.mtc:
met the knee .md fa rcncd \\ tth :a band :md bu"l.le
nbo\c onginallr wt'm tor golf and then nthcr
"ports n:unc from D&cdnch Kmckcrbt"Ck,r
ficriuous-:lUthorof \I IiS1n'1 York \Hilh:n
b) I rnng) rJu, rour<. arc- lull CUt
t h31 pnudll'd fo11r inches bdol\ the knee plus rwns .md
plu were .. IC('ordlllgl} J).lgc u6)
l..A n STI 1 Ct 1 \ cross ron:>t run it'll" u h
:thcnmtc plnln Jt.:n:e) uu J fine cut
tnnchine Used prun fm kntt spoq \I11T't ni
mCI\l!rll'('d ctlrton )'nrn
I AMn 'i The mrnen.tlmndl' of!Jbcr
li m l.tmb .. np to , H'll monrh!' old 1 ht' fiht rs ,IJ"C' ,oft
.tud h.t\C "Upcrwr spmnutg prf'pcruc-.
L-\PLL I f.1cmg oi :t J:t ... kct ur coat tnmt th.tt p.trl<..'l
;1 1ackct or rn;u front JOllied\\ tth tl1c coiiJr th.rt '"\\Urn
turned I
1 \I'PUI JAM \ wclkd tun
mad b) pte \ltlg tfu: C.:Jnl to 00(' .. Ide lb '" 0 l dgero
I tng l.:tppcd m r t ..tclt other .111d firusltld btt .1 row of
l 1p tu"h., of' tr} rng \\ idth u cn:het b) I mud ur
nu lunc If tl1c bp c.:.un ts ldr and nm sut h'\i
UOWil Us C.11Jr.: ._j lll .. Opt.'ll lap t! IIH J'Jw, sc.ltn J f!Ufing
Gtv 'i
) Iu:s l.l'H .

the odd ).iCkct ur tYJuscr mOri! (See
llt"n11 FonJn, page 106. I tumphrt1 Bogan
L 1\Sl A lorm of Wc)Od or metal !)luped likt.- 01 rOOt 0\ er
\\luch a <:hoc I" f-as.hioncd In :;hocma.bng. cl
pJirofindtvtdualln'>LS 1s hand carved b} a :o.pccialla!tt
m.1kcr from blech, maple. or bc.am wood into a
prectscl) comour\.d of the Ot\rotmr :t ftact
protnlSlOllS, indlntations and nil The utlc chm:cn for
tlw book\\ rut en on clw lift.: of john Lobh tile lcgcndJf)
t .uglsh hears 3 pun l.iUt Onnr.s.l rrst
l AWr, Origiu:.t.ll) fr\)lll tht! dry C,ll Lton. r ranee :t
J:1brJC USCd ({ll gntllll'IJI:S WOrn hr dtc:" dcrg}' .,,It"
prcscHt d.t)' bwn is n ligluwl.light nm'''' ut I men fitbli\.
uf t hc- gmdc, usu.1!1) of Ntmn
prn :llld gi\'CII a
Lf. Set 1'UXEDO.
Ll n \ Sl'lll i.uu om a tic mac him L haL f\.'prld uco.s hnnd
sltpstitching in ncd:nt! mnnufacnarl!
lJGNE; Unir of I r('nch origin. equal ro
1
11 in<"h, used u1
mc.t:-uring d!l" width of hat b:.mds an"l bindings ufhats.
LINE.; The swnd:ud me.tsudng buttons; the t:\'lclfth
p:trt of an md1. LJGNt )
Lt NE:N. A strong. rarn or lnbric oi smooth-
suri.tcL'U llax f.1.brk:. thaL ,-.;nnl:h.!!'i casilr Tht.: fiber is
actually llax. Menri01wd in the Bible, linen was \\0\l?rt
tnLf(' than four tlll>liS:tnd years
I.ININGS UscJ to rL'inforcc ;md ;tb:.orb
afford smooth fit w of tlw
.md 11.J hdp 11 rctam tts shape. MaLcrials Cor
linings :He lenrher on all of fchHWc.lr.
l.l:-:I{.S-M-IH- l.lNK.S. The term <1pplied 10 ;t r:mern or
purl or t:'lllC} -knirring sritdks produccll on n "J'l'l in I
mndtinc known a:\ alinks-and-linb machine th:lt knit"
\'enically r:uhcr r han horizonrallr. This the stitch
used fN alpac.r golf-rypc (s,, alpacn \'CSL.
page 163)
LISU \ fincqualiry of riglulr twil.ted.long swpk
couon )r:trn that is passed near a ga:- ll:unc tL) rcrnll' c
tht> fu:t.z and gin it a sleek Original!) IISl'd m
now nscd for fin(' knit . lr i!'i "o
it fina made in Lisle (now I.Jilc). I ranee.
LOAr'JJR: A brrmd n:1me of a
shoe \\'it h a broaclllar heel registered Llr Ncul<"mll
"hops, Inc (sc,, p:tgc .2tl3)
l!)DEN! 'Tht! oli\'c grt:I.'JI of the "l}rol. which
urig&n:ul!d in the sixrctnrh cunwry Tlw .. \\IHl
first m.1dc t hi:- grt.:en ::.IMdc of doth in dw .
mlllnt:tiuous Jist net \\ere Lodlrc r.:-o, lnomr ng
the materml from the rough and oil)' won! of the arc:t!\
mountain Bl.'ncr doth t'frcn some
c.1md hair tn it and i!' \\"atet prol'lf wirlh.mt being
treah:d
1 unrN c0 T. 1 he f.l\oritl! co:1t of "h')
League." A mglc hrc:t!-Leti co:tt with a butmwthro11gh
milit.try <tJII:u. chest yola. l:tslt pod:l'tS. ,ic"p
imt rrcd plc.m m back and n:;pednllr stitdtcd 'l'l 111
shoulder' dcsigu fc:uuring an in th\.lO\\crr.tn
of the nmtholt foncnn1ation ::and mam-u\er It il.:
madt from D Stfr fleece..: fabru: tn Aur.ma (
narm sho\\er--proof ltghtY.'CJglu grc n lodt..'tl
doth \\om b) pummcn fmmrhc 1\ 1 f. r for
walking. shooung ;;mJ dmlllg,
SU.Hl fhe bntJkng(; of cl th II tfu r Lid
uater method in ordcrm pmcm shnnb,ge nd re;Idt
m b em up. 11u. diJ doth to bt' 1
bcm L"en an upper and Ia} rr of' dath a.hrn
dncd naturall} Jlnd n.fu:rward ln LalJ ll)Jr; ultr
PQ\\cr 011tgmall) a01o:rblureclorll\,';;lf\" md \\flU
London mcrchanq; m be submmcd ID-.l cnrm trm
mcrhod of e:ontro1 NOVo .uJ:n thr 1
:l(tplacd at the :.<.>at of prothJL n( n hur rhc u nn
London hrunk" rc.m:ttu;; a widd) accs.pu;d o;mndatd
LoNe. fRONT llAI.ANCF An excei's ofiC"ngth m riw
from of gamtem gannent to nppc;u- full
<11 fronr -cr.ens:c edge "hen buttoned. :1. dcfca common
on clothes \mm by figure
LoN& NfCK. A neddu11.: dun rcquarc luglu.r
placement of collar (Sr.i" page 125 )
LONu-nOLL C:OIJ . .I\Il A. hm rollar set lu\\ 111 fmnt
\\ith four inchr long and adt:quat..: fullne5!> 1:
permit 3 rolled effect
l Ol'll' 1 NG: The hand fru;tC"ning of S\\t"atcr !tcatnl; rn
high qU!l.liq :>\\t:atcrs; al-a .doni! ou a lo p111g lllilt'htnc
m simul.ne n handmade :1ppear.mcr.
LOUNGf :-.UfT n1e e.u'l} n:Jml' ro :.t ACJ I.e IT
with siuglc- ()f dotthle-brcasrcd sn soft f.1imc for
wear.
I.OVAT.
1
:tmLd a(tt"r Lord.l.O\dl who
ofhaz) blue soft grec.n nd t.1n and
gtn}. du= lhathiTCd mne<i found an the
of the Highbnd
l.t)W-SWPE COllAR The upper Jane of :m Jttuciloo
..olbr th.tt h:ts a forward <;lope .md .J lcm band
shirt coJbr in tllu t:r.:mon pJgc 49 )
IEl.D Sa pages 14- 49
fo.tACI\:INAW' A rype ofhe.a\l napped\\ JoJ bbnl:cr m
big orchccb used 1.0 bancnnth du:
ArnC'rk:m lndiau" around Fon Mndcin2\\ hdugan
nll bJ.ml.:ct. m:uainl was al. o turned mro coat for
lumbtr[ach. Tl1e ryptcal cont was dC'nblc lit a
length" ith shawl :md an cl! arounJ
bdt that bcc4tmc knmHt.ts ... M:rdnn:m
The tertn rn tnglnnd tNln, fir
called a ... Mac -for bhon Ycaa ago it \\.1'1
term o[ten applied to rul) blad: \\Jtt>rprouf
ln r823. Chadt:S Malammh .> \;l.tS!!OV.
.:-hcmiSt, patented :t medwd ofoondntg
he tween two l:t) crs of cloth to m.Wt th fim

\lAD A HA I I LR \ phro..q:o .. pp}Jt-d
111
l ';l r.n
\\ rlli.un I Ie.un MIHL'r. a f;unoul' Engh.h hanL" h
o;uffcrcd UJtsrrolc and \\em ll1911!' tls. r bemg c.:trried
bareheaded through the street!. of l ondnn on

10
the I J owe Gammon$

D1u: 1
H M 11\'
"\pring'' '" tl1c "Sua l.1bnrs l!<tcfi.,ld J{r)lph L1unn
, ... 181! 9) )
Nl\1' I hl' fibrous I'Ut g\cn to .1 dcnh 111 ilmshmg
sud! liS n:wncl .md doeskin ..... urf.'l.::c flbl r:. an: ral .. ed U)
n'hll\ mg t.."'fllllden; C(\\ crcd \\1Ul metal poults or t<.a.;cd
burrr.
AI'I'INv $u 1\Rl. ')IIIN{.
NAl I J \ wcaH' ofhc.I\ h'J
cmplo) mg M.'Hr.tl colors to nchtc\t.> n pl'bblcd
ll"t'd 111 llt'Ck\\Car: Tlw word is I r\!nch .md n11.:.ans
.. b f:'ll J l.!d "
NA'I't It'' 'llhJI ll)I: R Stt I\TJ llA . md
\\\ .. ) Ull t \ .. \\t1rn 1f1 tbc Hriu-.h Nav). dtis d>lur IS
\ m uall) black
Nt:.A 1 .\ Tt'ltnuseJ in tht! rr:tdi.! fo1 rdernng
to a tic p.mern \\ irh =-m.1llrcgular
flgurnuon page 1
NH \ND 'H llt:r A :.hirt \\ ith a narrow bnnd ctrdmg
the neck and buttonhole ... at tht w be
:llt=trhcd LO .1 Cl"">il:tr.
J:Ch:ERCH II r \ squ:'lrl." bwttcc.l or in :.1 unt
fa.d11on ar.1und t usuallr madt of coth>n. silk
I men. or n wool- blend (Su I6tJ)
N1 CKI RTII: (\ folded and around
the neck" ith the cuds Lied in :1 rot..:n- JN IIAN!l or
otlwr knN ;1J1d worn with npen mxkld ... pun shin
It '' usual I) m.td'- of cotton. <>ilk linen. or a wrml
(.Set p.tgc 169)
NrcK'JII : Tlw sL:ttJdard term tt!ied (M male n('ck\H!:tr
im111 ,unuud 1840 nnwnrd. dlf: word
"ncckdl'l h.-li.,fo or more of 1:1brk 't'\\' 11 in
:1 shaped scar( or band w<>a r unJcr r ht n >II a r fold or
4r'Onnd the- llt..X:k and knorrcd iu
EH RU .1\ jnckcr oi shapelr
lines buuon!.'J high ro a --mnding-balld named
lor lnd m's former prim.: mini:.tcr Jnwall.lrlal Nehru.
NILTIJ{J\1.:. Tht. tc.nn applied to color that mm.tins
none ol rlw primary colorl' l"nd) ed lint!n ;,
c:<.Jmpk
t Htt 01 J informal jot..""k,:t wtth ;1 bliX plc-nr
at eac:h in irom. yoked. tWQ 1>imililr bux plt:tr" in
and .111 all :tround hdt Cnnsidend the "rnrt
1:1lkcr
NonwrrJI \N; nrsr populari7.cd b) l JlS: :t
shoa. rhi, lntcradopttd h} 'isrling
in tht. .... rwo tnot.hls bcr:HJW
pllpubr a sli p-cm mtlCt.oL"iu we ca:;ua.l t h.11 '' .ts t:".1llcd
.. ,, 1 f J UNS ":md :t rnodd "uh ;1 <.pliL, Ioc dc ... ign
and morC.J'illl fronr 1 hat kntn\ 11 3, the
Norwcw:m. NLlrwcgian were h:md
sewn hr Norwegian thl!tr off
{Sre pngc .:w.l)
Nl ')"J'CH l.AI'f L 'tl'p cullar: a lc fi,r s1ngle
brcasred coats fcarunng an b.:tpcd' pt:ning ur
step cffcn "at the puint the collar of :1 jilckct
or com ncct <; Lhc l:tpd hottom)
H !\ kt\ut or t .. ngl m \ m pbn t: 1 b J .. mt f
incrcllo.c-s or uf tt:n ton dunnb the f lfl
nubbc:d \.lm gtn n trri"gular u-nt rc
labnc t
Ongmall\ m :i "-ttrpr r b
h ftihc:mum anh oo:umgs c. f cruJc
lmo;ct d ml 1bda} a r.1mcoar t u ' n (abrrr
\\+JUJ ro;mng; uf otl ( u LILkJ 1 )
01 1\ E A sfft tone of grttn \\"Jth ... hght \ 11 \\ h
1 It that ot an unnpt; o] n c
( 'M lHU. \ J-rcuch rerm (rnl'dtuug" Judo\ 1 pphed
tQ :t fabm dted unHJhn r11 a gr..1danon llf h:otde ("irr
R.1nduJph :1\cau's nt:, pagt! tfl)
)l't.;IV. !tAT A ro!l3fl.t;tbl, h..1t "\\Jth a firm
brim fCJr L..-tr cmcrrd \\Hh Jull \IU ,r
otlur matd"i:tl
OJ'LRA l'CMI' 5o pagt :!)I
01'11 tA 1 h._. hope of .t I'AN'AMA rotht:r tra\\ Jut
wHh a full crown and a ndgt' front .fi nr r
b:td (St't pageJ8!)
01 TOM!\ 4 OfTurl.tsh ongm . \\ '' n
f.1hric of r.t1s.cd crusswt'>C 11ru m:.tdl" nr aU r
i.1hnc., u!'icd for nccl.wt>arand form.Jh,t:.Jr 6 mgs
OUNc fS I'I:R ''t:ARD One ofr\\0.3CC'-"Jll000l tpl!ltl n
for 1 he "e1p,ln of .a clorh It r ad a"
-.)unce!l pt.!r lmcar ..rtrd ... nnt ptr c;qu;rre ;wJ
Ou rstAM The t:rrtt:.t:r lr..:ngth nwASurtmlltt r 1 ('n
ir,Jm t h<' top uf wJmbnnd to the trouser b,ltturn
0\'1 RCOAT \Vnrn1 outer gartnl-nt frt t1r
't} le ll r than.1 topcoat Tht coat
c:1n be rmccd b:1.d: ro the 'iC\ cntcemh C<'ntUJl "hen
ancu:nt B1iwn mndedo wtth a ptc.:c crf,, I doth
Lhnt doubled a.<> .1 mantle b) d;J} and a blanket b, rught
0\ERJ'l.A m A pattern m \\ ruL"h il block hgurc rhuJ u
superimpn"c.d upon a :muller pl:ud r othc:r npe of
de-ign (S l uct:mo J:trkct
OXFORD UAG In n::t4-"lJOJl pinq the dmtnptpt:
tmuser leg'' orn b, niL nt\t.Nr>
Mudcnt '' idenccl thL"'1r trou;;cr lcp- tlmt W'\
resembled a patr of deph.nnt s legs tlu
f.1shiun for'"Oxfor-d ha!!- grnduall) Jtl'd nut lhi."'
'' orn for .. omC' wnc on the golf courM farcnmt..nl .and
prl!hahh pbFd a roll! in the C"\ nm .. tl dCJill!oC of plllli
fin1rs m f:a\ 01 ni fm golf J red 6uch:anJn
p:tgl' 112)
OxfORD N.11ncd tun.J ford lJm cNltl dIn'' .. h"
with t\', ormo1-c 11et. of <1lllt;"'i .. mJdc Ill I
JH,l t..lllR. or Gl u 1 r. "'} p.tgt" 191} \I ,, >1 r1un
or bn'ikCt \\ l-a\c .shirung 211 OlltoJJ faro rnJu, l!'({ b;
rltm1'h wc;aer.' "\\ hn h.1d nugr.atdd tl lnglan.:l t Ilu:
umc of thL: re' oc.arion of d1l Ed1ct ,f ';tnl tn
1 he cloth l} JX' ofb;.t!'let \h:<n \ rth a tlh
ph \\ARI' and .J bull-.1. rounded m l JlliM
\:Jrn oi \"-lu."ll "ILC to [ht- \\:ARI' \"ant Broub l\rmll n.
popubn:r.cd Lhc tJ.bnL in ns buttllll dm' 1 roll m
bec.onnng l'\llC: oftltc sanun2l t\tlll., of th l'' nt 'tl
C".l!ntlln (set rrcd p:t_gc
'f t-:.r1 h'R.n .\ J.rrk gtm MlJ.Jl of b)
t.Ung o.;:O un fU' 'pPrttt.; .. nfblr \\ l11tt.. S" tl 1:;
p nr) aud hlJ I. '-lhd '\ oul<> ('lS t. :-- r r'" m) \
tgl ft. r Elf.! gn ...n rru u.tnk: ll l..Imbndgr:: h\ \\.1\
t dJ ua tttn.uu b\ th
( tl 1r th ur &h"mt} wlors fL..tmbndgt: .m laf!IH
(b <'l "hal..: tf 1 .. "f\. h.tnrd ..trl: J.ul {hlue) ( tht.
I[ f b g;m.f-.fd)
lll nR \hn fsth.'iiM.k
PHJ t (ll ... M I )Of I I hr rorUJ applr"1 to J t:\h} uuttnn
r-L.r "ttlt d1e lo\\l!r burnm plt.cnl tbu\C till'
JnJ th_ uppcdt rtt!Jn ct Jngh b\ !OCI
I th Jq1l o;; (&l p.tg \4)
I'\ 1 I ,..,.t. 11 ttddltJOtl.IJ! .. ,- of tabu.: {lf IJh; h
f hl J;l\.(' or fl\ I m.tpt: tO p:trt'i 'lf l
k t uu.-nr
P\J l l \n mrh . ..ttt" :tlJo,crdcsrgn '!>uggr.ung .1
pmt" "lltll \\(1\ en or pnrucd
r mHm thr pan of \Hlulc.n "'h.m Is m.tdl ;n
lor I d.md (the hl\\n so n.tma.'li m \ tt"b,n:m
h r at t.._ '"" tan produa) 1 h ..:c 'cLlrtt.'h "h.m 1<.
"' n an tum dd.tpt.I%1 lJh I .:-a-; It me.: re h.J\\ oi
l r ur1 Jcn mon .-.ngmalh m.t.lc tn J.:ashrmr: lnc.ha
In rh !Jt Nlt.h thl" '"'-1 .1d.tptcd a pnnt
Jr. "S' ... tor nll."tl fmc 1r ( u twck.nc pagt 3q)
o\J \ '\!' r he ntfl" lccnrh '"I.."'Cnlu.n repl.lC('Il)CJit
,r d u glndurr ill>Utt Cl.lJN:.cing ,,f.t butrun front or
pt!flm r 1 rp uh a Jr: JW tn"!! rl.tsnc \\ us rband
f 1u l m td ufcuu 'lit. sail ur other t:il.mi:< prim.ml)
titr Ill .11 'fitr {,1uttgmg J he \'-'prd 1 tJf
llmJr nrtg10 <t the !!annenu \\en. bnmght u.h:k to
I rt. unnng munl:>e.r:; of dtL; BmJ'h ILJ
r Br H lln U \ bmnd uf d tit
h I I lm 1k 1 h ( mpanl Ongut :dl} a "11tnn1L'r
uftnt! fTbJJ rrJI r.angmg au \'>I. aghr fnun- tet '8 ount.C!o
n p :tut '' \\ th ..tcutnJ \\,\Jtf' :lfld MI..)H\rR
rnrs "
I \ umnu:r r,;uttJng rn:.trcnal tlt.tt
m r lUOCco; m J pl.un "'-':l\l
\\ trh rt \\ \ltP .tnd \' itr5t\ d f ll U M (St't
. r 1 '-utt l.tbn, ... g.tft>h ld )
r I \ u \ \ r r-c f I nfJttl'd ,lJJ I umh.tpt:J 'itr.m
Ju hrr.t h"ugnl b JnU \ tu the pun of
I n&t J (t It ud plur I f( m Alu (f of the long
f 'L fl'' F It 'Jutlf.l) pi 11 1r thnJd
' ru fs n tm I 1 Lcu1Jnr 1 ( )ngtn.tttllg 111 f u.tclor
t nhu " l F'i: ru rJ c. r l\\ nu ri.d ,!oc.. not u nh
l m I an 01 bur I Jn.lm.Jt tc.. I rhL .mtf got
hr r\.'IIIt
'I
rd p.ntt I h< rt ltr \ Jnt.JI n
J 1r ' u l Jnt.tf nr dura r au d t
n \\ lr.g - n. I l J
pr d n } 1 lng_Jn 11 \
m l" t Jm ffnm n r i t
f ... t l
J nth\: 1lt It lrt ,f
\ f tor lt Jt rtl
t th r
thJ
d n .m,ll
I .\ /'
in
I'\ Ilk\ \ !.l'Jl frorn tht [ l;unu pJrk 1
n \\ md bnal.tr ltl,t' g.tnn nt nit r
luo!.ch lrmn ! ht slmuldt.:r and shp owr rlu l11 .:..f r h
.1 itt datuJt4tnd .1 dt.t\\ '>lnng tw mmalh
mn\ll uf .1 lrghNctgln m.1lt; n.tl
P\..., J II \ 'Cl'} ton, uf .1 c(lor
JJ\ Tr 11 It H 11.1 I \ pnd.d llllldl' b\ Utrhtng J pn:cr of
Ill <II c n:tl 0.1 t lht." nut of .a g;, rnw rn '' ir h " r\\ 1 r! LH :t
lbp. This (XJckct COJI\C\., ..1 { L'iU111 nut.'n
f>41J:!C H6)
l'r \ J h. KtT \ heu\1 brca..;tt.:d d.1rk blu
wu\.!IC'n '""'rn hy !\:till)ts h ... Jto.; I rom
tltt l'>tnLh wnrd py f\>r a h<. .w\ c.tl,t ' ,
In thL c:td) p.u1 c)f tht! Lt:lltttry l.1lUnr
\I fred ,!'O.r"ill\, .1 E.sluon g Jll_,lU,ght 111 tin
nun\\ uhc,ur .a ro.u illlU hnught a rccflr Jlk('t
from .t n, the It hnd hl!cmnc pupul.tr n
tin: L:nnc.d Tlntdnl
l 'r \CliC"K R1 \ Oll1ll>i'li <. \ ltNA 81 1)J RH r f hl
11.HJJC glh'll TO the CX1.1tJC .llld do ht'\
of 1 he 1 q6w rh.n nmdr: men lol)k like .kfltk ... A tht
for uu;; d:tnJificd gn.: \\
kno\\ n .1" th,, ikHlluuon
J11 H.. E j') 1. J.tpLJ nit (JTl Ml llfl\\ trd c:J.mt tnl11F,
t1 n poi11t nnd ll'aYlug ''"I)' it n.trnm hL't\\.:cn rl'tt:
.uH.ll.1pd fimnd on \:ll.)ubll
L"O:It:o bm somclllnt', in hrc "(l.l!s I
' ' }k v( t.11koJL l.1pd gr'OI!..o, stm' ur. fllll't tm.:l.ct.., .1 mun
fi HtltHtf d rl'SS} IDok. Plgt t<-t )
f'ru. Ill ''lli phrase ntC'a:ttHtg km pJstll .. -
flt,c, c\eu gr.11n nr lc.nhl.'rltl.i" surf:ll.:c 11ft,
dull 4ll1t in) labn. woHrtltkc .1 H\:11 t1 but'' rth Htb H
flnc .111 tlmoJ-1 !ifllnnt11 f.1cc IS pmdut'cd
l'r HIt F W[ \\ \ dud1 \\ uh J 1cmgh( ntd urhu;
f. mw.iln dt her n spcu.tl ur lu!-!.hl\ '" 1"'" I
\.1m" th.tt hnnk \\hen wer
I'll.. '\ dl'>cnptwn fnr tl1at of .1 rR 'l r 1
outt: r ll g ltnl cxttndn1g fmm lhl' mhJdlc of th htp
pc;cl c.: 1 do\\ n h J PC!! hlp tmu t. r; ..tn 1m full
tuf \\ tdc OH"Ifht.lups nncl rap .. r w \1\\ b Htnn ...
Pr "'l r''' t;. r r \ pcc"Uf dr\l'm:m \\fUJIJ .i f.trtcr r\' k t
or 1 ep.lrJh: JJ,ltrt " Jle,ckr't .1 m.ut=-
J.td., l ro lmu t: ) 11(' ;11' lll(Jfi. rl 11
Pt 'l u t PJ I t;'\ \ t..'l'} tim ... mpcs m \ nr tlun: \\ -\ IU1-..
\\ lei 'uggt ... rmg tlm .. c d1 ;t\>il d'} :l rh d 1 n nwn " auir
i tlh UJ J ,.)urtu blt:nd ,,rcontt '"' '"'" t1 ....
b.t unJ (su th r lmn ,g 1\..!IJI
I :wreu PJt; u-1 }
PJ l u \ Rr u l 'I 1 pu c.rmatt. c It r.tt h.'l'ttU\ 1 1
"' ,tft \ hch pt<mut t \'<lt.c.'f Jll f ...... L1 r
rhh u h n tnt1 , h.
I 1 J. "\ Jl I f 1 \ t rm Jflplt \1 i ..t t1L Jt 1 nrn-
\\1. . .t I' It It iugt, f.J ll l, dtrt..LJ 111 htt n t i!nbr
(\ff' umm r trl thr- "'Ult J fnld )
I' I [C.[ D'\ I I' J1w l"nn upphcd Ul ll fabrrc th.H hil!
Dl'<'ll dh d alil r If ha. .. bee 11\\ OH'Il th opp! ltl' r
l AR Ill Lli
Ill INC. 1 he fornt:tUtln of grot!p'> of ...hon 1r hr l
1
hb<r- on t ha surfa\;e of 3 lrrhru: that :m: l:tngk(i
tog 1lwr m lite sh.tpt' uf:r tilt} h.tll cnlled 1 -r.ull P"h
ln! rmmcd \\ Jat.>n I he enciH)f n h:ttl") 01 \\ miJ) ltbtr
brc.tk Iron du! ftb!lc surfitcc Wit4lil} from\\'(' t
p 1M \ <.:0 J H 'N \ l,Hlg :,lnplt gmv. n tn
\uwric.m outlml..'c.:t numt!J aftct' l
1
am., C ,,unr)
t\ 1z, 111::1 ( n:.ucd b) Lg; pt!.lll .md
\rlll.:ti..<IO l'tm:tl:llf hlfl c1nl} fi1und tn trn r
qJJ.ll111 lurtmg"
PIN Ch. \check apprDaduug that of .1
smaller than 11 d11 rl. produo..t d h}
rhc t'nd m end Wt"':l\"C o( ah.:mlllllg mlorc,l thrv.ld'i
uo:cd for sumngs spvnsvc.lr and -.hirunga.; sumng
p:tgc -I bortom.)
1'1 N 1'
1
0 1 Ukc n anw's a F. pauurn but sm:tller .1
snull dor nppru.-xtm.nd) rhe iil7-C of a ptnhl!ad, usuJJiv
found 111 \\Orstcd m.ti11ngs !;UJting page 145)
I'INl'OIN I OXI OIW A qpe at ,.Junmg th:tr is liglua
an wc1ghr .md linn in '>r;mcbrd oxliJfd dodt
PtN W\I.J.' with .1 \l!l"}t1:u:rJW wale ot nb
(5tt n:n pngc 1.-;q)
PINK \ :-.ttlt of reeL
Pt NC Tlk nHring of d1c mnrcrial m a
:'.igz.1g, tuoth de.."Hgn LQ fr:t} 111g.
PtNNI"I) COLL\R Am collar su'-h n. a mum! )r

'tr.ughrpoint -=ollar ru-e to bl
hcl..lu1 phhc pin. If dw (oll:.u Ita..; a
natural tiber luting. rathcnhan lihing rlw pm's lwlcs
will do'c up tn dw wibhing process. (St:r 1 H 229)
I' IIUI'ES Fine 'itripc.s the wtdth of a pin scrnrch
resulting from the u l' uf whire, gray. 01 orher).trtl5 in
sencs lf1 the \\'ARf' ufa \\OR."TLD I \1\RJ<. ..
rhc "Sun I .rbric.:, .. g.ncfokL)
l'ti'TNt.., A ll<lrmw (Ord. U!it'd 10 fini:-.h JI
dccor:nt' tht or a garment.
l'IQ! t: ,\ rib, nr wale f:1brk its r.1isc,l
from -.dvage to\ sornclllllt!'i
W(l\On w forl'rl :t hmw1 (vtnb or w:t11le ..JlTt:ct 11 used
..
l(w hnsomo: of f01!l1.1l !ihirts and \\ l he
\H1rd b dcrhed from dw rcft>n. pth"
or "rh.u whu:h picrrls.-
Pl '\l-:Kn A s, p.tr:th.' .,rrip ofrubnr st'wn onto n slun
from nr g:tunclct 10 .;t:cun: the bummholc .wd
prO\ ide and finish (.)(t :;hin pngc 2-.l)
I'LAI D hoxM>c di!Stgn fi1rmcd b} smpt'' oPYnnous
\\ttlths nuuung \crric.dh aud honzonmlh on .tl":tbnc.
C >rig1n:tll} the .. plaid- \\a.; a ltmg doth'' nh
c.tn.tn (mtllll) in hlark and dtldt)
worn owr the left b) d:t\ nr mp,ht the
cor w I .. h ph z
r m ,., trom thl
Pt \I ftt JrT
rL"-1 "r r
am t rnm 111 f .111
d c J I 1 l t t. art p
llldt; r T1 M CODtlUUUig
PLr 1 \ fold nf m tt.:rul p d r t
h lltn l\- tl c n tTi n, p
1
I d\ .nd a an utt tt u c.: r \ldtn J pit; t
111 l'rtc.:d l do\ thr- md t t l n
IIHUiu,gL:tn< Ill u ro; f I t 1 tl u
wit.bting nf th r. I1Jp "'h u rt d \I J1 r c- 1
\l:numllm \\ju?Jt t.ntdin (. u 118
t
Jitl A'TF JJ 8t)S<t!o.f !\ ofr luu L s m mt J t
qu3rter u rhrc-e quaner-tnon t ld na nUig
tt"P shun I d t v. rt:r f
tnd Y. \'fJJth dnt 11 nor c.:Jil J nd r l1
p gc !. 4-h
PLLGbiN<. Thcpw c,o(m hI ntl
furi'mg du .... h ... nJ. tlf rht> buu n Lin
tt on rhl" other ._Jdc w Jth .a piUJ:! t t L ,,_,
Other mnrcnnl t; nh nuln h1 'r b
r
button< \\-'JUt metJI ... dldt. f n 1 plu :< ,, 1
hnlc: \\til It(jl he th1 on dtl' urfac:L I U1t 1 l 1
I' I 1 Ot.: It\. '>u KNlc J::l fWt) t I R
Pn A of n um JU v..hh.h rn r owt tr.u J
nre tw tog&.:Ul('lt 111\ rcrm 1 u d 1 t u ..{
1
r
d Js.>tfic.twm. ior tl\:.unplc ph pl) 1 pi r..
Pn ...: 1 T . \ b:.1g mad!.! lor h uc n t nh t
1'0 Il' I TO rnt Jl.l \ r [ I IU J r
\\ 1d1 h Tht het\\ ccn the l\\ tJ, uldl r 1 t
\\11lchJ,Jcfillt:dasdt.1tprunt\\h rcrh<"i r h. fJ r
:>l':tm lllt!Cn- the top at rh 11 ... k am rf t:Il
runmng behind rbt" bad, of til!" \."Ull:u r r d
other houlder 2long \\lth tl1c hnlib m t
[hc.;c t\\ o tsurc..-n1C1lt':i LCLintt'-'1 th \\ dtit I th
Jackl t shouldm;o;
I
t t "un
1 'OLKA nor 11H carlH! .. ;;r l..n u n t l '
nee I.\\ Llrtgmdll) reputed It mb u
God (Srr pnge 11)8)
PbLO COA 1 \ dmiblc ur 'utglc- hfl' c;red '
cJmd s h:nr nr s11ft '' ath n r 13.1!1
pat.ll pockets '"nh ilaps -s.fcc i' :-utr.. m .. l h r t' Jl
:tround belt Thrs Amc:nL .m dm.c; r.. Jll;e<il 11 b
rr.1<.r.d h.l Brmunc. h.h'.-.tnhan pol fidd h h
pC'TUil!; SI.JOCl) g"' ndcmcll bnd tl car J fi r
'' tdl nct1ung h rhr...J\\' \.tr rlll"lr h d
co.n -chull:as .md l f t n r t
Bmthl!r.; as bn!Ch cre4it d "nh mtroJu Ill! d 1

1..":\lat f.,t "' .J\\ .I} imm p1 ill!! h fLh.
Po:-..t.a F. A hghnn!ight ilighth n =t IT J rl
'Ilk m J .. JuJc r" um :or al .J
t.ulon.-d spon,-nc.tt. I' " 1d t be tf
rorruprmn of rh.: Clum ' pr bt m..: \
pw1 slrl 11.1tl\.t. unuld .. til.
------ - -
l't1 "R llC\'l \n.urtt l>t>n"\! fit.rihh\!d
nmd.: ''aha Jngh round neck '-"r Rl-' t\cd 111
1qbo tn'm a type 1f S\\t.:Jren,om b) ho"
c: uh twrnnerh ccntur}
l'aJI'U :\. pl.-un tight f.. WtJ\'CJl t:tbnn' n h prououm:cJ
rib .. ftWd tn. . .J b) u .... .:md \Rll pmcc,
tl1:an \\ n r l ru.1U \U'"Rl.TIU7 .. E.n fQr higlu.rr lll'ilcr
p< pltn has .1 tcr n"\."turc dun broaddNh II \US
l ngm.:lllv a IJbm. fur o; .md tht'
s... dcm nf fc'Vm the { rqm "lwn dw
l:tlu i \\.1'1 w htgnolt,. a cirr (sec mnrntr'
In htn rahm ... fi
(
1
(m.K l If. .\ -.pdl4 ltat JO h_.l ur f..tl,ric ha\ 111)! 1 fl.ll
rnpl1cJ "ro" tt .a pork pic 111 ... \
I lt::.td urn">llmt:.. M) r.:rmcd E!.JilO'Ffll:Jg:ll.inc wlnrh
tt tn rhc t-<no:; lmqaH) the hat"s lo"
dn" mu..srh IK1\H'\Cr. It"'' olved IIHO an
<."'ttubfl.,hed Lhhron for W\\ 11 .und .cmapw; tn .1
of "n)op; and latt-r hc('omrng a gtn.t.'Ttc r.rm in the
h.1 t b u 11("5!;
or \\ALE-s LHECJ:.. The rramc "iJch hut
m nrrcctl upphcJ t11 rhe Ol.NU RQ..LHAl{ 1 .1nd
'lnHI.Jr chnk '' uh u rolored 'Hrcheck 11tt' au!hcnttc-
Pnncc of\\.Ut:E cl1cck dr:.s1gn d h} Ktn!;! hh,arJ
\ H gr.mdf:uhcr fme f.unons Oukcuf\\ mdso1
\\hi: Jl he \\.t<; nf

as b\c"t'f) 1:1r his :;ltootrng:.


,J.t \lwrgdd11.: lnltt;t un cotland Dtcstdc. It rs oi
muLu p.mcm tel the but TJt!,l rl} (\\icc 11
IT. on r pc:tt with .;oJ,, r;s of red bmw n on .1 \\hue
grnund '' uh .1 !!Wtt gr:J} uuxc.hl.'d.
l'RINCl. t'l \\ .u I. A !'hort.lno'r:'-larung
ragla.n I C\ed mgk n} thmt tupcoat wnh .I
ruhb\ fJCllk Ltpd and .. ttsh pcn::l:.et.; Titt' tnn nf rlus
c.uar r that lhc Pouct: of s.m rhc ortgHl.tlsu A
\\tn uf swn w fdmhurgh likt:d 1r
.md \\Cut msnit and bnughnt
Pa l"'llT rancrn appltcd tu fabric b} mean nf !OCJ"CC:ll'i
llr" or tmpn. ton
fl l!.H r \pcr<iall\\itlulnrgt:.r1ic:-tt than
\Cr.tgt' 1 CJU"r ,f 'eat on o.n .1mf t rnuscr-..
rnt Nf 1 u lint m.uendl made ftorn n twn up .md
m ' do' n \tAtlP taL:c:cl m1ll \ha>oe \n
c'" nun I n_glt!'h "ttr:tni f:.1bnc m tn "
t \Jll.md J urpfttm hade
1 h1 term'' Ut nhd fmm the f wttr.ll'f'l411tlllJ
wlu h m an'" ,plnm ..
I t H \n niJ r rm for 'iiUC si an '\ ttl'i t(o u.,
It ,l}!\14 It \ pk \ t\t'U f.abn In n soLd "r
r.t!t rn fnr: th b-.md of 3 <tl:rm:V r fdt h:.Jl \ Jiltll.tr
f .... rt \I; .1: \\- () rn 0 n illl \ 1IJ 'ntL ol. ( I " p 'Sto l.!,.l.2.J
r l rlil unJ lcJ mal :a hKirn dr fur r. nn:ll
mn gronrl r L'Jltlri 1 aud ball, non l.ci
uc n tm p uup ugur.ui."lf I he h'rnt ''-il flr'<lr
d dumtg tl llil-11"' tl :tn i""m \\i1cn fm rmt""JI mJ
tb uu! ailed vm tlun led
I 1tb r l t; lr h 1 b, ugge'>t<-d tb.u dun I
it 10 home tltppmg np :md d 1 m a
U .1 :\ ntnrilc tlnur... oundt:d hk .t \\".llU:l
pulllp. i\lt!H:.tugh the pump :1 ;r Jt
.tdoptcd h) tht. .unifi..mts,:d mnn t."r\,1nt n rhC"
1-l.ws tbl' lm\ hcdcd shp nn \\lth flJt hu\\ hnall
cJUt red ...oucn as-n srnan Iipper fllr th&: f !>hiouabl
dl"t's,.cd bd ship qfLnndun L1tLI tl \LtmbrJ
\H'ilr for mi.'Q forcrnnd .rlTo!Jno.. and \\1 rn wnh hri" he-.
..
(St.e page .. 208 .!'if )

"lu" to tr(',lh.' .m ontnmctltal


nn (,VC' l'Jl)
f'UIH. j\ o;utch Ill k.nmJng Hl \\hiCU I he ).ltn I!\ ruJI..:d
tr<:1111 tin of the f:thric rowa,d tlu: n. dJC; nc\\
lnt,p:. .ut' Th..:. wvi'rsc uf the pl.un kun st itdt
ir pn:du..:cs horizunt;J I rm' f 11 nwd 11m kuu riu,g purl
stitch,., ,HI! produ.:c.d un .1 Hnl.s Jmh machl"ne
Putti'LF .. 1\ bet\\Ct:It hluc and n-.d rlu
cdor rh;tt ts aSS\)CJ:ncd \'>1 t h 1 hi! gunm.ms wou1 hy
''nt}Wrurs ( ( H1Jme was .uctualh crunsuu
Q!_: '\It rt:lt Titt CNnpkte and upper p.tn nf .l
hoc th:tt ;l,ins the ' !'.111 r
' R u L I: L) 1 ., 11 t n
the doilzes )'Oil HL't'cr tP('llr.
- .. - ..... --- -. -
H.ACI \N r\ luO..'t:.' fh.rmg rope oar with full ..:ut -.It-co\ es
c:ncuding at an nnglc from armhole to llw wll:tr
m fooru nnd o;inglt trd \Hth .1
huuonthmugh fmm:. uotclti."d l.1pd Jnd turn bJd
\'uff.., arnrd for Lord R.agla.u E f1!!h h g<-ncral m
nmcan \\a mputtd t\.., ha\1.' "liAA( "tt..J
that Ius troop' .:ut hnle:s m thr.ll' blanker.; ar1J the:: n
Hlh-h tht> folds rnto C)lmdnt fl,r thctr
:tnns to pi\H\!u them fn"'m tht bm,r H..1f.tdinn t:"ulJ
\ raothi!r goc" tlut I nrd R.1gbn h.1d f'11lor
dl: 1g11 ,1 C.OJl that d tsgmsc.-d rhl' Jo-. "(.li ou..: qf lm
1nn" rn
R \1 ON \ ll.'xnlc fiber m:hiv l-;.,111 n.:g
t:dlullll\1.' b} the\ pro"
1 ltc. \\ \fO -1.nun"",\I;J..-If1VI!1ltCd II] 1)..2.J m Kltmuh
J t1f{l '' bu rhottgln rite hb r hntlln .. w
Rm f'J H. \ .,hurt l rct,at or J.nkr.t
usu.tlb m:tJc of 1 h , llth l)\ o;c am.an
( ir fttMl."ned at tlrf' '.tJl'.; tt mr.tlh pla .. Nl
hmttm41 \\(1\lld Jlut he ... uJghl 111 nggmp.ltnt "hen
tluft s til r;_....,_.-Ja> It as tltc hJ\1 Brut h Rm111
.r\-y \lffi(cr " pd .. l:t ami ftul!bl'.ar oft hl doubk
br'"..1: bbzcr mudd PntH C' { harl r-.tg<: I II )
'\1:.' t .. angle !r dL uhlt: hre.t. t ... J htttd
oHr t.M t \I "ltU :t m ufflc r
liiiRJI'E..Sc't p,tg\.'1'1
Rrr Ill r..- \do d) \\ll\'('11 nbhcd fnhrtt; -with.-
rr.w L'Nt vtlccr fomtL-d b,- rfu. rut r
, ll
-.
tlu: "Akl m regular I'll\\" of P.1n ll ulnrl .. 1 lat ted
la o.tnpt"c; '' rth the rth runnmg 1lu I 1bnc an
Jr '' U'iL'd lar ucd:"<".tt .tnd
orlt llh tctm onginntcd m !.!lglnet mh &:l'ntun
f J,111t:L from nf.
I' r I' I A 1 \ t hu1 appearr. agatn und 'l! un m a
ttbaiL . thn tht munhr r ol 1 hrcaJs or ttiLho rcqutr(t]l(,
pic 1e tllll.' Jt:s1gn
RII'R ''I !l:,l I'\\ H.H . th.n ha\t prC'\10u I)
f.,bncatL:d hll1 th.:H'r worn, The\' .uc thtn
Ulli'JH'In1_ ttl nlwt' r,,rm 'if'UII afh.l \\O\'t:l1

Rl II 1 tNT Ct)N:o\'1 lf t.o \ 1m'1hod of
,, nt.daic. in tlliJtnrl)
''J2lh l'r Jc:.s1e l.tHgsdinf f11 \\ htdl riH: cut
and rhr: bws ._mjmerltntng.ln' h'ld
h) .1 rl.'"ilwm "lip 'urch -.o rhal ii1ushcLI ric
'>tn!lt.-hls and fl'<;\lH'f'i \\hen knot:tl'd ,\lJ ltnc ttcs rm.
em u11 rht: hw-. hclpu1g them Lu htm prc>pt.'d) to tlCll
mist \\ IHn hung fmm rhc nt!d.:. and to rct.tm thl!Jr
f\.''tltt::nl\ a ft{'J- ll1111 mg
Rn T llS \ llOI her fN lapds ,lC[ll:tll r the fncmg of
the: l.tpcls which folds back to show the rr.wrsr c;1dc uf
rite collnr and l.tpd-.
Itt \ J'lr u \ 1 RQUsrR 1'1 L.t\I thJriolds or face"
out tO\\'ltrd dw pocket, l>ngln.dlrcallrclth,
Conttncntnl plt:ntllS lll rhe r IJ'\Hlrd
ple:tt 'I Itt t'C\'Cnc pleat proJul"cs a r HcJUH!f' irom
I h,m dtc il H'\\ilJ\1 p 1<.'31:. (Sec page I J I \\'0 bo1 h llll
phnr ogr.tphs.)
Rm 1 l"G no en ;\ h1gh leadwrf,ul,r w l11 1 bt
leg c-.pl'ci.JJy I(Jr hor!>Lbuck riding
RISl Tlw dist:tnc .. ll-om crotch tu dw '"P of
1 Rul rrt-.' \\'\I,TT>ANfi, a' tn lo\\" rise and high
rise uou,crs or tht! the
leg's \)Unl and
R011 COL I !\R SHAWI L>\1'1:1..
Rt..Wl sou \ hoc !>ok m:t:dc l,rhcmp '"'r hruided
flbcr.s .amJ hdd rogcrhcr wnh 1 hrc:tcl adhc.!SI\1..'
L
Ru't.Al. ox 1 onn A lu'itrous.. high "'-'Uill (lrtgin:tl!)
lllglis!J clotb .1 II \l>f.: IT
WJ \.\ 1 d(',ign of fine two-pi) } (."irt'' \.\ ill
the "'Slurt [abri ..
Itt I I 01 r IH Mfl:"' fht tcrm 'rult ,,( dm111b' IS dlriHti
iri1m rhc rmcu:tH prao:ticc of U!'ing the thumb n., :-.
lllC':.t!;UI'iug de\ icl!. Jn mnrL nwd,rn rimt'!', 11 cumt'
tn be kmm n .1s :t guiJfng principle\\ nit" td<
.tpplioui<m oncc agatu urn mrcndcd to mkcn .t:o
g\1:-pcl \\ hile r11uch ii.1ss has bt:cn m:ull.'" ahoul tilt> t'ttlcs
that govcm pmrcrdt\' !'.lnrk has h!.!t'll said .1hotn tht::
les." Cfl\tlllrlllD th:u pJ.un, oJd
iashtonc.J good juclgmtnt" L\r01k l)rOlhcro; 1)3q
Rl ';SI r \ .:hHh d)ixl "ith bark m a dark bro\' n
1\Lj,; 'll r \ .;nfcl} t:ulvrcd cvar (r;.Hht:r th:lll.l .,,ut)
\\ n h hanging ltghtl) mmmd
.md undann1 fr,,ms (whn-h mlntb the
h:ll; lru lc ,11 the fir,l b1 dtl'
l \ I agur.H m lhc L.lrl
has1 of Hn nls Bmthr r
f. Jr th rh. u ,,. n car
ll)_ 'UU
0 tlU I
'\Vfll \HOl '\ l;{ceJ ,_, rd :i uh trtp
leathcrmcJ UlJ.m b-p n !h m cnl rh t f
th fih .,r ln ug I r u h a, bn n r
black on "lutr p.l$' _ C.)
!oo '\I AJU JAt < .. lT \(( nt.: H J ,.c. 1 fl
ALf \JI'O J
1
ff'PTR fhr 1ipct..klud II - t u -d r
otht: I f11bn produced b) fled fl b_ck uJ \ fall
bnm 11 ,md whht.
.. DAJ ear <La ole \IUt .,,,..
uppct m Ur1 tn and .a bud. led rr.1p c''lcndtng frtm d
bm:l. o\ cr the jw:wp. 'lnmt:umto.: 1hrn are n o 1
tn front
SiA 'N L>t :-. J \ suit u:lh.n\ h.tdt' fiR :lJ p<. nng
un rhe f.1sluon ccm a .t nn\' Wthardm Muu.:l titr p r1
COIIIcd h) Bqurrr., #\pp.ard A. f" mund
Tllt p:uuned proe' of ldmpte h"
'>hrml..l}:.'<! Ut:ll guaramt,w that .. Ltbnc" r tdu:tl
furrher \ull he Jc,c; 1lun J pt r em u d
primanl) fnr. drcs!> hirt. J he hrand namt 1 l\ th .i b
the :-,anforized Compam \dnd1 1 .t ubi 1d1;u I
P<.:Jhnd\
AT J A dfl:tel} wo ... en shnt) f.abnc pmdu '"...:ll .t
\\Ca\'t'th,u pennirsasm:nt} ofdw'\\l\IUend il p1 .,,bfc
10 llu:u 011 the faa: of the good! rt!,uJung JU g!t '} fi ce
anr.i dull llmsh b."lck Mad.: of qfk ur' nthenr r .unn
i"nr nc .. laveal' :ntd :1s trimrnmg lor ar :1'
:111 ahcrn,mvc 1,) rhc.- dulkr nbb,:d gru."!!f'l'" {.Vt
tlt!cltt:it., of lame" Mru.on p.agc q.t and I IOU5 beebe.
p:tgc 1:0.)
ILE Rtm, Tht" tnmou.'> fa.shton t: tab!tc,hmmtlnult
h) the rnrl of Burlmglon ;md n:unt.>.d ft t lu.s nft
Dnror h) :n tle Toda} 'J 111 tht.: \\ L l l nd nl
London on\\ hrch mam ct\l>h m t;ul 1n an: hxuu:d I
until Brummd ;t tnr ni '-1 )Kf .. \ I
l.1!loring 111 the Iauer p<trt or the
dttl S:J\ile Rm\ bec.1mc J \\dl raalllr"-d
:t reputdrltm 1\'l dtl' d.:
\ dmh rh:n dl!tl't:s.at tunH from rhr \Cf!
higt; gr.aie \\ODl m \cnnnm the
hc11!i to Engli::.h tlm.m u .;uch ct [d\\.trJ \I I Ill d
tn l'll rltcr-coWill"' fhc mun (
:1ppltcd l\1 \\Uok<tt fuhn s nf 111u:
stotk 111 f.'lncy yaru ._}Iocr$ on tlt .. o:rdc or fl\h cd. ll!it
;wd trnU:-ct
sctMI'rt. \ q p<' oJ""\.l''l.C sallth.u rc en d 11
from kdrrr. \\ htch rn ch p en .:-ur up ' h.lppi
1lk I!> cut uno .. hoa lcugth" nd nuxcd """ odu:r
fibcn> in spun salk method llf m:tkmg \.lm Jl .,
but trregubr Ju.,ta.>r
;:, "'
'L 01 ..-u c..R \I' \ petblc gt:Un1hat t:. m tnmt
hem" chrome- .mnneJ lcad1Lr '' tth u dccph
cmhm.:ld pcbblciJ tku t ret:uncd C\c:U tt r
rhc:- bLcu L \STLD c n!!mall} mad Ill d.md
I ngland for shoe' of lht' l\NO{ l I 1\-p h
Lt.::'l(lltrc:J c:uri..,"t. knJ' mt' ,rux_. ' "f1l rtU1J! jgpl,
'C T H T\\'l:1'' Twe-."\\c. tn!!dc: m .1 J:\H" up .wd two
nHU ut pl.un \\ lntt" nth .t PH u :-.:{i .,f "' ,, k d) c<l
\ . .:um rrc ifuggt :md trtt'gular
'\ R.ff"{ rRit.:fi'SG 1.1hnc h) me 111 ut'a
m .. h u1 \\hhlt ...p<! ... tfic .m:J" .1rc trt".Itcd to Qh\td
uhmng m ttt..r r he c.olurtng m.ltl.!rt.tlts f\.m:t.J
tfm,ugh thl: n m tlu pan of till t:1l nc tmJ'-'' r h"
.. f .lrc.t" L!.:h .:clor m th'-' dcs1gn rl'qum. .1
-, p.1r.1t1.; crcetl
'-n (st \ND l't.R Tc..i'-' I ht' \'4!I) finl''\t loug l>!plc
cnooJl ltt. .. tn.tu- .UlJ r;trun8 gro''" orig1t1t1lh-1n 1\nu!>h
cnkmutl r.Jan {o; w lfh' l .mbh.m lollJ) 11 r.uscd 011
11fr LhL' mudit.':in cna..,T nf m Jmh

Jnd u1 dtt \\est "r t nun i!i.


a ul.thl.! t uh m lugltc-.. 1 quaftt) shtnurg:>.
!oi.l \ M 1 h U p.:1n !'lf n \dlCf.: dae uf t\\ U
nf m ll'c n
r. \I utt..nw. '< t \..Jcntrn.fl nH'I h til(<'\' mdlt.:"" of
:.id.:lmotul millCruJ inr tmu crs nllu\\ ing for t hl
C p;ttl$ti.'D Ot \'then \\ i!> "eltcd
\I I R t < K.Elt \ f.thnc afwmm (rotiwr
blc.n.J: lmh "-rmklt'tl "-10pt:.s1tl.ldlln alrenng he
lC'fl."l\1 'II ll r.hc \\ \Rl' dtn.JJs f tn.l dt'iCO\ .:red b\ rhc

llnnm an hrdt.t J . ." .1 stlk tnbrtL' rlw \\urd 1 licnwd frum
tht: I ftnds trtahr (Penmn slJrr tt sld.:.tr. mc:.tnulg mtlk
.md ug;u ) o\nrhum Drcxd p,,Jdlc 10c;)
\1:-u U1tW \ luLlJl fr"m clu. II iithrk :a!>
of tht; N L C K Tl E '\l[UJttd ti 1 {{lp
thruugh \\h1cf1 rhc uc', c11d ,:!111 bl :tiTu ro l11li,.J1t
tU pl c ln tha.: .tlHit.ncectlr n >elr lul'll d1t l.tb,l
uhcn t1 'iJmc pu.rp l<t LJU::LfltJ
tl rt"Jnf r. t h .tr lu 'P:t Oi' dac1r
undt r'in:l ' , the tl(.' nnur back :-.&;.1m
"Jl F 1'-\ rl L1 !1i; \ \\0\-C.Il UCStgn IU thl .tmt.: 'b,td\
h kgr mnd af du: iahnc
'I U rJ PM {, .'o fJtf"p.;( H l fl'I'J l';<.;
ll\ fJdtlt oft hi'" cdgl"5 ( f .l f.abrJC. \\'C.I\\,'11 uf
I \ t r ! \ ':il m u u.tlh- m bngbt c 1lor;; fur
nJ rc tnl:O' Qr til prt""\Cii1 uura\'t'hng l he
\\41 I ma: rl .rnarh,f tn wea\ltng 1._. tndtL.U' thl"
J tr rcr r y.rnJ f dm e- lfmun mh 11 c"l l1hn
lu .._ .._ 1 r fiK J b) l.1w ' tuan., rn"rk
tlJcrr n nw qr ttndt: mark nr r'rcqmm httL'r\.tl" 1.11\ the
l i!' 1.. In the word\\ .1!1 "J,gc
1 h h.trnn;iL'1tOU!Ig hltd ti.._ r.nh r
than "hm 1 w funnnh' \!llr n \l Nl
'"-1 I r \ ttff tr;t\\ Y.ICh fl;.u bnut m .:ufor n 1 ...
f'Ol."ll;ml d In I .fiR \\ lu, h ("'UJOH.'.d tfiL prn..tkg
run tnen1mt> nghr ll bt \\ ,__ rn \ nh :t dum jn kt. t J
\\ Jl ... I I p r ..Uld lrl.I! r; (\a r ' I I
1
n m)
"' R .E \ mtll j; ., rn J t.ahnr. rh 11
url'.t._'- .md dJagJJn:.J n1 ... n tu tll td.i: of(;tbr a.; \)!1,
a \ , u eJ llh l lrt ,n;rJJ from dh' I tun "' trtl
I 1r lk IMCd
\ m\il th.a: r (n: tf, .. dtr
t tt L"i1m ff...un mr.ndm
td OhT
I ht
th" Joiumg uf f'\\o ._,f(tlmo: a I' h :
ltL.ltnt.'s,<; tO m:d..---c iunJ fiar curf h tlch J Ill I hr
scrgiug of a ru.tr w .1
TN 51 rn I \ Inn. -tlr IIu.;r mucm \lcL
'>('\\ n tn .11 the armhole.
1 F{ till liE UnlmcJ ll!.!l.."k\\l'.lr \\ uh d r
told" of Ghnc dn: uu>st l:ill d .ltld c\.t'ith uc-
IIA !IE I he lOO\: of :1 ooJur .tpprua.:h rng the d 1d cud
oF tlu.: \t,ll "c ":nl.
.!'ill \l"ti\\ '>Tilii'ES \nmdr!!ttnct. o;hadU\\ 'ltl 'P'' t:ftett
pi'OJuc .. :d by ing .llum.1t mg tlf
!tlld fefr JmnJ f\\ N }ilrll lii dtt! WAR I' (St\ 1 .!11 IU tlk
'>J111 t r g.n-di,ld brtUOIIl )
'\If \1)0\\ \\Il\V! Thcdilct on m tnpl: r
h) tlat! umutJtal(' duplu uu:m o( tla"
'' t(mnauon afn:r a dcflruttt n.: pt<nr 111 Jarl.e.r tnnc
or of cl1:u .f\-" the -prw.mmu t rdln:J
h<!mg crua upun tlu.: ltglu\: r p.u-t nl tlu: f lm
I r kmtRd oflit.:l\) \hll \utn nl
.1 pi:Uu riblwd !.tttdt P c...tllt!J m i"f rh
'-h:Jkcr :-ni ongin:trt>d ir
H \M l\l 1 TO''IIltuu ,\ lt111\b l!lmng the am t.mm.: ...
of n buttonhole bur J10l L"Ut tlm)ugh
11 u-:t.. 1 ill.' >;t\!d pl.nc or
a l':'{tt.:mdmg trQm th\ lwd fot ".u.J ill
anch
II A I' I k A pattern guid." ur CIU"h!d 11IIt.'l' tht'l:f lot' J
gtt1J(' u' gi\ 'llg t ht" desired t.vnwuno dtt.:' t'Famt 1 1
g.tnm:ttt \lu' .. " worLcr who pcrf,,tm-.. dm 1 m
b, mnuninJ! rhe front wrth sht.m.
"
>\RK Kl'-.i; \ dl'ar fan:-d dr\: ") fdbnc- n
t\\o tom:-s-ni"prn (lf t\\ dl \h.:.J\l' th:n '-tmul.JlL'"' r he
uf 11 J-ail" 1ll thl' Suu f thnc: "g.udi lJ )
I..H \\\ L l \1'1 t \ lapel cut 111 p1 r- \\ rrh sc.. m
tn l"t'nt.l'f that iol1o"' 1 he tront 'rt'mng ot tit
-smglc ur tfuublc brt'J.t:1cd r.td:tt .md t\lll'i b.tl
"1thout ii(.HCh\:c; pc.tb f lr:' J man.., Jinn r! 1d. t
11te ouh th.:tn:nh c w the pt: l1pd J" f. r-
dw d.t'>!llt dmutt ktt. t 1\\,.Jrd p.1g :!4.1
rtf. Ri1"'(, \ \CJ.1 \\.lflU Ol.ill'- "1Uh.f\ l:IT In
or thnt f1:1" bet. 11 ranm ... t WlJh HS "'\lt\1
ttll tdht:J mg to rbc
'\lin HI HU Cll pi.Jid 1 hl:
flliiJl\.l;)tt(')fl Ur(}IJ \dttdl dtL (.'llltr( S rJ\: 'i ,1,1( S\ 11f"14J
norJt, Ptsmu n.: t 1 he ol"tgtn ,t rh, i\J t rn
Jat .. b a.;kh\th 'St:'\Cilht'ntltt:\'111\111 y,Jt tlll \lo.t:
1 1 d h\ the lu-phL"nls- tor the 1r pln,,t .. tn tht I ''" 1 11 f
In tltf' ure;u I n tlf Jk;;J rl p \th n r .acJ
t:rn.mor1 .111d "il' dl nh: .:i I :u nnn 11 1 R r \n
nh pn.pm1t,Jtro:.;:d '"h .. d pltt nt r 't\\ ill w .a
\\ht n '\ tpuag ,nJ \tdnng h u u I!\ t tttr
md fi lllr ()f\\ llJf or cmtr .1.-'iUng .u lur an"' 1t J
mnug .mJ tt au\Cr. .. ...,UJ,Ulttr 111 till" Suit
lt1bn.... Pnn -.- d \:\ tfc-, 66)
, ..........
r1 A D A "Oll pnzcd (,Jr tt,s lightnru aud
\\ .tnnt h from f1t.'1'p 011 \: d off tfu: IU.Udll'rJl I;J t
of 111 h\'tl.wd a lcs. tl.md hct p
ltk\: punac ShL tl:md C\l\\.fi ltld lu: tlaud
l ollu :tn the :-.m . llt:st or t:bcu pc\.1 .
Rt'"'t"tllblmg 1"\\t>t.:d 10 .tppc.mmc< but sufr'"r 111 ft r I
odd jncktt'i m he d:md wo I b, c.tmt .1 t pll' uf
the 'HCJl"l\ lVI LtA .t: l"l 11J tltl'
t'.lrl) I )l.l\S COUJ'tl''i' Umoks nmtllL r (.Su
J.rckcr pagL' 1 oS)
SHIIUUN, .. \ ruammg. .... ,f,,onl
Jh.n Ul! 1rn\\Jl up M.l M.to anakt the: mottcn.tl bct\\ctn
dwm s.t 11111 hr g.JI ht:nugs (.Sre l Inrl .. t.nblc page H ,(,)
SIll 'R I II A( " BA l A C I In :t tntl Jt"l'd J:ld.l!l i1 lad. Hf
hadt IC'rlgth >wr dat: -...lmu(Jcr 10 tit\: b:h k nf the
:md llohnuldcn cammg <] rolb r to dr:ag dunn rmm
b.tck 1h..: rw..,l :111d or :t c0at ro lnmg ()Umard .md
1\\ n) from 1 he .;cat
SUOH f IRON I BAI ANCI In a t.lilon:d Jnc.J.ct ,1 JncJ uf
from lcug1 h 111 tlt'-' h.,fance C\J tht" gamlt:nt causmg dtc
garment to pull fom-ard fn1m Lhc figur\.' and to appear
shorter m from. 1\ defect common to erect figure
causmg a bad.: ccnrcncm to open
Nf..l K \ nc,Jdlllc that :tiU\H'r
plaC'cmcnt of collnr
u rfH LIN I 1 he Gnishc:d , mdinc of d1c
run t111 :1 g.1rmcm rhrrt j, nawr.JI t'tC.
'IIU 1 Ill .. \11 imph.uwnr Lhat rill IN(. prns
bt't\H'Nl \\' tu) ro pnlUu(e ::1 wnvcu (aL,nL
HAM. The .sen in running from the :trmltolc F>
bolllllll or the coat jPIUIIlg du.' fiont ro dtt ba(k ofco:ll
\ Sec page 89
u r SI ,. \ lighrw'"ighr CPW>n nv1 LI n1.1tcnal wuh a
calcndcnztd )!1:1/.c fimsh usl'd pockl't ..:rc
'-'
1 Llli.JUJ r 1 r: Th'" outhnt- of a garmcut t'lr .md'it :ts
womb} au .;uch as shupclr or flowing
Stt h A fiber cxrru .. lcd b) dw silk" ,1nn m fonmng :1
c:oconn "ht'h is and \HlYcn imo fabric. The
"II.: thrc.td is :1s .-,trong one of cqu:tl daamctcr
in srcd Stlk cxrrcmdy ri! . .,llknt .mu r"t'-:il'ts
wnnkles. 1\ tltrct-tont ll..'ngth strcn:hcd to tlu rc ami a
hnlf icm \\ill o;ubslqm.ntly to 1t:. t'nginallcngth
1 L" 11 ,\I, r 1 1,\ 1; I< w r r: R; A :.1 i I { I ugh c 10" 11 cd
hut with ll rolled ldgL' brim mndl' 1flu:-.ltOU!> o.:ilk
plush: US'Cd (Of\\ hit' tic fi,nnaf \\'l'olt: h
1
h.tW
or lgimucd m Chinn .1 round r/-5. \\ hLn n Cn nmnc)C
horflr produced .t wpper t"t>t' a ll!!un
'"lw tlw with him b.te'k tJ I r..:tlh'C
tNGLT lllt[I\S'J"J n ThL hmn to .llilckct
w:uMco.n. or outcrcoat w1th .t.singl{' :;ct of
st.'\\ n a short d1Hmu:e from r he of OtiC .. tdc \lt the
from .111d bunouholc:- 'c" n w corrcspondmg
posuaons llO the other iJc
INGI.l Cl!l 1 [ lw emiT of.t :;hlrt cuhlr 5oft or .
'ihtrclt d o( ducJ...ucss J1 Jllll) \\lth C"Ufi
l111b, or hun.tms
ll I ( ( fl ) J I t '-II' t d ,.,. I
h d u .. umkrt o <' 111 r m t
tcm u tghrh u
1h n dt qu .. n
J n nc.h h rt' tzrd h\ hah
'IZING ( HOP,) h
.tn m h JnJ \\Jdth b
'\ti.JM IT
th
\1...\ Jll' l hE I pocket 'OCt m 1 d t' t ft r
't rtlt.:al ur dr. ga'llLil p )_In m th 1 1 t:t tl h d J
gothroughtoLhenc\:tb)r.;r f II m,gutJuJ
found on r. or uwn t..lt
1 n \ f. I' 11 c H flu: ptt Ill n ot 1lu: h tg f t 1 r
Jd er slct: c fu f1 n' ani I \ flltt. h a t m t
'\ c fon'-ard tu nut m ' u lu \; l!l l 1
n.aural hang o( rhc "e.trt. r nn >\ nomt I ll 1
1 th llnn hangs 1h.l11t fn nd 1 t th
nuddle of thl." tad .. cr lnp P' I 1.::1
san ELt'-S l -umH.I\"' A J nm d (: I rl
fromcd n :. T \Ulh bunon I ttl' " tb t
someflnli!S a ''-'h n t und r
J:lCkrr or C\ <"'n r lt ualh 111 " 1 t. lh r. r b
( u pagt. 169)
"11 t I R :'\ r.unc:,J:ll uf utled l:l rr n or r h
Jll'
ff
nd
falmc \\ nh snap or bun n nd .t 1.. rJur '
luud stnndmg oolbr
1 1 J' ON \ notllace!d )t.: C'&th J ' UL,Lt:d I

11'1'1 H \m foot'"\ .tr u rul-bcrJ \\lUI HU
fustcmng Lhat as <.]Jf'Jled on the f.., 11 .tnd h ld 11 plot
"nhour Ill)' f.'ll> ..h.::nulg; frmn the tcnst n ilJ'( 'ttl :1 the 1
U I' STITt. H \ mnh 1d 1i '"" mg t t fu-r tl h If
Jn\1 blanket of a dlat pcnnm n m um lrL l I
and rccm er} b the pre.."" fl('l(! ot
spnnc or expn"t-d lo p uf d ft unJ r th 11
end 11u<:luopofmrcadl'dnmnupmt rh In t f
dH! uc durm.g wear: the ;un n m oop)n ng
addmg to the OC" nnd hdpmg Jt h 1.: , t'
.:tJ"C h md stH } d
.\ \\1th "h ulllcr:. h '
llH'rc than .n:cragc "'I opt> to 1 ht: m
'l OlTiiH:Ol..l A lnr coll .. r wtth nmfl tnp d
Ifill'!! rfn Ur Or put til rhc p JCJ '"I 'i
c,11.J1 collnrpomt rn ",t ,n stifftn n thu nt ng
If fn>m L.,trhl:tg up ord{ '.\ n ttn dun h \C
,sun" 6.1r l:mndtrtn,g
-..u 11" \ d,,th .ddcrr c:m5cd b) r. htupd rn.-d
plnrc m a v.am
'MOf.d:-.;G Jt\c:t.rr Sun xEnl
flRlM HAl Fl"lt ot t:ID.n h t' nit o1 r
bnm dl'"tgned to be mmrd dO\\ n tn fr. ut r '
..
and up in b:;d ..
I d


h &lh un r
'NlAf...ffi :\ Or!>np m
und ,1 mbber. ,.,oft:. for 'po:n nJ aro.1 "
)
H { H \ rnl! C ' oft utislmy: r!,
1 g d .. 1 , 1 i" f fh l..rn t n :1 ptlt
Jl \ b .. i I ke "UCJL
\ l \ I -\t indc!lo: lt red bad.a{ h
\ ln:Jb\ tbt: f n_g.l1m , funr.1J ,_('U..tU:..c- ft
\\.1 .. \.ltdvifthcsun.,r.l\'>
f .trr .u .1 gn: n h ,Ju: n .t .ttreM:nt n rhc
f fl .,_c; c\1'J mcJ b rtte prt..HihU.k th.u rt{'H
I lpJ IH.Hl&\1' L h.lr r 1\ red l ,J.I\ 1!1 .1 '\ lkll
r. t\ dl ,u.uing .. n \ v h tf ;JO,
' -\ r \n .l 1ktc; L. b 'X doth Um n "". m r
t Till r-. cxtund .bl')\'t." rht ;lli: f<t<ihwd ,tt
ur buu '>OJ. .mJ .1re hdd UJhhr
rh c; 11 ! dT shoe v. tb strap md bud . k--..: lbt
\ .m tannn l 'lpJm rJ ,fus tkttL.'(.' lugh
\ nob lonUL.rJ mud .md W:Jtt.r)
..,r, r l '! < It ""' th!&: \\h n r :y '3!.5
ch u I t m 1rr .;n c:d m orJ r f \\ Jh:
\
1 hg gr. n ll \\ ur.n g' n:d
n l1r a r \ JJ r t: ' at \\ JUtt ut
n tlK: .:uunn l.trd "'E .. ,tnod '"'h
th t Tt. d C.Jugh h t.Ul.thglu Ilh
\' d .tnJ spc'"n"cr Mu:J the ft. ult1ng '-!\I,
r i..t \\ n the 11 - lh bum :f
1 r H l \ I .. 'itllln ,nuJI tll 1\l'l J .ttt m!i
:J ft r .. {. 1r I r l" rigut.alf ,J .:n ru thl"
r J ' l:i l rn.. r lU rhc. f.t , l nJ ,f 1 ond.Jn \\ hen
tfu lfu tMl t \h " fttrn rl,1f1U' ctd\d
.it m 1-J:- w -- 1 tfu lttn m lit! f I '"" , .. " ,,Jk
p u mg u:n .... .. 1'>2)
r
I
\
\ t -pc of mrc-rcrr.u h uddn Jc: ''!.ty'
u t tlu: fr:nm lntt a rngbn
r r t lt:.mc ... xh .-u 111 from
rl t um!t tl!ll
\ hu1 11 pn , ! u lltll .1pphrd r 1
i \ 1 d- hlf [h u !1. t llp It J.ll
I
t 1 f bru: rh .1 \\; t11.p 11p. 1r l .tm
J p..i."!f n J t"\ lu dLr.
h L! pun ., tri rn 1
J H r h I t U P bUt h lJ 'l
1 L-\. "rc 1..11' t )
H
J.. \\ 1 L !I 1rr ftl t 1f 11. 'ipl.IU uth Jfll
t n t bnc
!r m:r I fi l .u HC \ ()ttft
I[ \J I
' t
m :.fun Itt 1f IX'r t r Jturt
umL ;::J I ft In I.') .t
(,
rm f. 1'


n {L1'Jn
f . q
r
mthuh l 11
{ f n::J \ OU'i
p c: -l
(j

il n I
,,
Uf'O<'"
(
F
d tr IC1l hr
d t I i
'
u .J
f th t L t t
n f
'
!;
lv u tth da ar uro; sull tmlfl'd' ..._u,dJ thn.mgf
dt sr nng> dn-! d .. w I \k III '' lu h
\\ t,; pmmpd)_ r.;.lbi the 'ltl Ill kid. I ha "'tho 1! 1\o
r 1ut tmtform tod.n !-":UlJ "" lu It tht Lind ,f tu:
< lll \H .'\tt NU H t \Pil
S.1o '!'INti \ lc:mrng pn.,tua thilt rcqtttre
the c .11 to h.n l'>l shoncr fr mr bJI m , .m 11. n ro.:r
lmgrh. The oppn..-rth ul .m c:; pn m
n \lt.H:I rc11NT L\Jll tr pagr J .!6 md 1
l P \ f:"L.,.Lt'rH.t' \\ th J p.tn or bad;, t l1' tht>
lhs m vi 1 ft)r.nt.u ... flln h ltlll ftchlk--d
mcol. pearJ. n calor,cd .wm'. ur 1 rc.J
\:.t Ill'\." l"agt
!)L f.ni lcaLhtr tfuu h.1-. been f(l l 11rK n.1p l'r
h!h o.'t ftJII }J 110 the flL-sb othlllC'f of tht: sku flu
\\ tu-d ,,. tn'm rht h'(."rt..h uanw tt1r
''\ dc11 .. "' lwrc rh!! prru:t'>:'i \.lng_tn..Hed
l N'HO f St'{ '\OL-\.RI
St:crrRH"' \\ HliT. 1\n ahcniu 'n b\ addmg more sii.JfX'
.tt the WJI"tltne of n gannr:nt
'-t r. \ L.maJuH n i\11 J.lt:kc
.. Y.tth Mrking bLttr mhotcs
\ t I;.J L'\1 01: R.' .Srt p:tb'lt! .:.22
'" -\.tLlnnNII t:O!\ r rite old F.l.shh:mfXI t(. r a
T\11 f.IHT
I U f El h 1 pl.un .1nd u m ltllh
i.1bra .. \\ ARI' .md r 11 r P.(, an 1lm(1 J 1f thL
cmuu faffi: m '" fr,,m du. l'crst.m ''ord tufi.Jr nu
\\u\ cu.
I \II l.:t.t:\1 1: \fl," \\ !\11 UW fAll l LH f
1 "tl \N I ht h:Jh wnrn pl.ud tot
\:c-Ulltn but oul) tha "utttsh 1 h)3hlotu d \. y, '"'
.. f 1 ful cro .;-cht.'<"'lcd pl.nd ns J nu ans 1 f
tdt nrtl1aunu I \\or.! formcrh !ipcllcd tdf.fa m
\\J fro:ln tbr r ngh!llt. wh '1 \ltk it f m th
1p:un,:b term nl'lt,tM T h gJ\4. tht naml h.
l tn.m .t...., t':tt .a-, the thu t t>Uth IU'-ln I he
l.Wih \\Ufi Urt;m [n d.t) aud ,fq1t Uthl r thf'!lll m
Ln an JC.ut l al\!d( Hid (ntl\\ knn\\n J, ,._orfnnl'l)
rh of tL.lllllcc:ned to dum
thr d n I hghlund ..
f n'l ft.' !:t I '\ chCL kJ: d p;UWtll f rmcJ b\ \ rmnl
mt.f b uwnt;allmt w udlh HI r. l, ,,,J,tr"!<< f.)n t1ght
I 1 I t r:'CJ6 fttr.h:u I I Jlh: h und".J J
h 1 m ;dar m l -;nd m Tuttcr.>i.11l h <"' nuaalh
1 ntH ' ..-s:m:l\..l\a h.u ' ro ilJL f, '" bl.mk<t

It r.l lc. h.: r.rct('tLSU pl:tt,f u dun fane h ,mg Jr nght
-4 ,_1{ \\ lni."h bt,.,.m( ktJo\HJ ., t.Jtlt.. r" U " h w: Dna
Uk I b\ p rr h ndtnJ! '\\..iL';J1. .m toda\ the
rJ tern I fi tttJd ill 1Jm ( 1 \&!J'\ l} pL U
Jtr T 'I (s W \'-.;. r rr 1 \\ mrer ;ancf
un me-r u tlt !shu:t hhn IJ )
ltU .. ,. Dl'f t IU m N nil' r.Lm 11 uf f lt or UJ\\ h r
"I'<' , .. d \\ 1d1 ., il tt r 1p .1 nd :m l'\ cu hl tglu . tlh sdt
)U l'Ottl\. I' IE
J I Ill T J I 11Je fur.:c tnt: Ufc: d 1 p and
111ch proth runus. rhat 1 (Ilm .. tlf..J jh r
t.:.UJ \Hdl t ud \Hthour l n .. .1tmg
1 P\T L. R l Ill<: ur ftu. llf.t f.tbn. \\It 1 her o;m , 1 h
mugh ur rrcgubr Ongmalh :1" f:tbn (1h
\\ orcl Jem trom Lill lrttru tatura me.1uang \d }
I HI ...: ND llll N A ""'"n \\rth unc\dl
t Xllll .d )lr!J hl t'fit.ctc,f.t dod1
1lt Ro 1 I he part ,,j tlao:' "hue .ll rlu l N '1"11 I'\\
the'\ \M l' l.}pl th
IHit\,\1 l !\Tt u A orfhu uidt stuplfdorh
JUndacd t lhc lt,;H llltllcr rullnn\ nh t hunonh lr .11
cHcltlt:.H can be qmppcd rltr.: to J:,.,, n
tC3 a butron on tlw opp(l'>it(" undc: r et'fl:tr" h1 n
<; c..1lbr '" mritcd up round on rugged p H1
J''- L:ct" .tnd Ult\."ndcd w t hu frn111 r.tJJJ or
mid J.\du.or. pag .l.C11 )
TIL KET l'OlJ(E r Bnush tailoring lorn o;mall
p0rkN lhU,lll} fl..ppcd. plact!d abn\c the rcgul.tr
po\;kcl the right of :t man\ swt COlt or
O\crcn;n 1 ntrt,ducl.'d ut rhi.' lara.: "fur .1 r:ulm.td
ucl.ct :1nd used at imcn CH!r .. in.:c AI -.o Lntm n :Ll" 1
pOtk,t (,'it't' 130)
fll l 1 II' .\ lua.dcd f'astcnc1 used w cl1p rl1c
t\\n 1.li til.. h) th(." :.hirt lnttrmmeml}
the fi.J.!{}.). (Sec' pag<. .uS)
T1 r Su f'otgt: L! 1 :mJ cop} on 1 ht. l
1
n 1 t 11m o.t'
page 12.2.
TIT. rl\r....h: \ dc\'icc o( 1\\0 pans
an out< r decomti,e head hacktJ bra pin r h:n
through t11c and top l::trcr of han pl.trkct
coJuto:rmg to a pmth IJpr: fiHrcncr undcrr1C'.uh
1"1 1'1'1 NG. rill' liuint! ull the b)ndc and
end uf .1 nc uftcn m:n .. hutl!. the hade of dw tu:
..
u.;l If lop-tlr.n\ N 1 c" 1 1 F s u-.c silk tippmg m .. <'r .1
lllhCllC \Jso, I irptng Ollt:\ h:H. lOU Up )'OUr
IJd:t} becnusc 111 thL day:s of dii\:llf} thl! kmgln
rc.mo\cd hi ... hdmcf )f rais\?d hi;\ .t:-
lc,lgnwut that hl" '' ,l.S aulong li1e1hb
I 01 \ uff. sh.1pcd pic.:-1.' of leathe-r pl.tc1d
LHtwcc" :1 shoe\ lining :111d tip w m:Hnmin ir.- conn.Hu'
ami prrnmnent
10! 1"111: fn)lu tbt grN1nd to rhc
-.udi1cc of-t he ole ;tt rhe np of tlw hC.
\dm:h g1"'' the fi'L' .l'.l1ghrh mrned up cffo.:c:r
1l.lN 1 11ll' qunlit' or' :1Ju, .. of n cnlo.r l,glucm:d \\ 1th
rhc uf" h1tc 01 b\ t h nJ.1m m oi
hlud. or gr.t\
J ONl.ll \ lrnrhlf 1l.1p IL' th(' HlSh.lt' ot outside
of a ''PP''r tu prc:rc<"t tht. lacing .u.::t fnlm fnltmn
pressure and perh'tr:trion h} object-
T\. I I I I '- I 1 II \
lltl 11 I .1\T J
\\0\t:U OU )llg b;rnl1
"I' wd f n-1.t nt m th 1 1U r \ ... r 1
1 1 rpru f mtlt- n
umt !mdt:p
l. Htrut. I r' m th I l
t lLC'" m \\\\I r
'' r wo he;. .snd m11. mi
:n \\cr rud t.an: f
tht fi:d rtLltcn I a.' JilU
b.td h!t!h h.mn c: ll.tno bu u

\\ nh pa..,dl ibp. \ . m m" r; Lli t l
thl hangm
0
ft:qupn
b nt I Jolh ood rtLld t rlli :m.;

md 1 ..
.._
rnL-\1 (JI('r[ Th m t c pt 1 1 I
cu tnm madt or,hl \ h: t p;t r c
:nlu.: r '" d m: 11p from th
''1lk .llwmm" rdut fit1.1l m 1
the LJ\'i r pnon.tJ ctelting rht: hr.-.r C.r 1 h
I Rl l 1 \ \ )ouch h.:h h t \\ trh "-hi li
ongrnoll, worn m fngl nd b J h rr 1, r
Cc f:h'<' du M mr4crpJ4 .tb lut l fl
Hng:tfl \\ Juch \\.1' :uhpic.d n m h I
Trslh) ( p. gt I i9 )
l1 I U L l <\ .. ;,rrd 'f '>tnng .uou11J lh I
cndmg rn .:1 bunnn bl dt> f th
\\OU}d :InCh\ r butt 11 II bt J 1 r
hnt [rum! ulmg vff \\1ten b1 ... IUJ.F,
1 noru u. .. \ oR.s rrn \ .. run'n b u tr
\\UTHr.:d '\Uttlllgm:ti.lA] "c'ghmg U l
uunre" per' ard made 111 :1 \ ru \ t1t pl.un
with 1,\ l ph nr nglc rl. ' ttl
Jnd TILLJ"lt. ( cr- pnng" mlf '-itttnnh
f-alu:-Jc" ... l!,.ml'i,fd )
Ttt\ 11.: stR r.:uu. gamu nr fn m rh ;
but unt <"m mng rhe ti.ut \ ten 1 -.1
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pamcuhri) b\ -.ulm '-OtdiJ:
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t n.:d. n "" I , rton r llt nLlcd
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m 1 t ' 111ft: lrpmpn!l t: tha.n taaf f. r lnformnl
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\h . .l\ tnf! uno .l tJhrK ... '\l!iJ..t woolc n r \\ ur .. 1 J uf
'
.,, tit.:\ lrtl!i 11-r nude oi rwo l. ,lot' duuhlcd .or
C\H"tcd t I' llh.'tn llntlftLd .pp .n.u a:
11 Ft'" Jl U \ rtntgh fdt lr\-tll1Uf !..11
\\nla .l<olntrplr i.!p.1.nd kO\\N 1 n trr; )\\ lmrn turncJ
Ui' tu lJ(k md ,{own tn fn:n1r llnJ 1 urd l) p ,,fbaud
Jccurttt..:J v.uh .1 fiJdwr bru>th muunt .1!'" ''"L;ttc.U '\lth
th .. \U!ilri.!Jt 1) ml {S J1<1!!<' .!O.f)
L t rt;R lloubiE bn.t'l"t.'l:l ftmg O\ r Jtt. '1 \ r U\ hell"}
I\\ rt I l If M ll [\)'"' \\ irfn1 big c-rr rbk ..:olin I \\Hit
lapds .tnd ."1 lt.l1( u1 .111 .tT"(mnJ lwh h ,,,, mtl"'(t lu\ 1
h\ l1 lf.N linn Ill the tS(I)S lh thl" tttnl ltJ tftl'

r.ntun dt.ll uo Wlnld r:,t
\H-ll (b: or;sctl ttht'ntr .1t h$t UU' l l'lti.'J m lu \\.mJ,<'I'
l N TIU <. I El) \ It> 1 tn u "t"U h) I hL Oll"ll \\ l'..t.r
11 tl dt.'M7Tibc n: up padded !Hit full} lined
t tilurcd pckt.t J tctlll ri'tcn rnr.:-undt'J"lhu..l tu nh: .111
.. tr lm:kmgiui.ulonug 111 i.l!;.t hs.tJu
tln:r'C ,., uo lming tn ro' cr up tt!'t insidt s n op n
nueriur uircn rt.quin .. -:.. more t'1\.u.tjng .1nJ.
tlmo.; tlJJn :.1 1\tllt ltncd Jat:ko.:t
'illT
.ftort., or p;mt" i11
ll'l'fR fht: top t!IO\t pan lf -h11,
:.luJL' t <"OilSISt ang of (lllC ur IJll..ll"t: p trr:-. luwn lmmg
hh.ing 'dth undL'lln) mllnr.
V 'I11C' lt.;"l IIIII i,.l ltppel p I rt Uf :.J
In th .. nw ;:,11 .111d pJn "r
",,, to tire n.11
\ Ell i \:lHI lh old ... and tl
1;"\ fC ui '-hvv lc adll.'r i.anmng. "\\ hti!h U!.t.: UJtUro}
or l''<tt'ltCl . \\ith .. lt..
\ cg< r.tb.lc t.tnrlhl'-
\II\ l fl J"' \ .,fh\rr p1Jc f.1hrtC"\\tlh J Ntun JIll I"'<<,
lh..tr n'-tmhlt: \doq:t u d f,u .. malmy J.h.kr-. uttt
<iplm h 1r {St )
\ t NI Tl \ lith \\olf",tc,ll" rll dl th \\htfl! th, \\!.PI
t .1hnu: t 111 on dn:: urt:.h.:t 11 t h ..lrt\1 1 h, \\ 1 f 1
l!'i ru rlw td. Jlu: tt.tnk ts tmm d1c
UJhl.uttc ll:Jts .. d w silk \t ncua.n .. .l Lh th < l r lrtl'Hc
\.thh rhJt \\J"; nt.1dr.: 111 \cnf, l: T ht ll01h t"'>!lJ 'tlrlt
h ;1JII1 d \\ ur ... tc ... l.u\..1 tn,td\ 01 'l I I m I n
WL,,;t,t ,.., tl\nl fi.11 -utt . )t 'I 1t5 .111d 1 t \1 "
\r>qJ '>t 11.lrmutd"ilflC( fiitc mh
U lltliT Tel lllfiJ{ rl lrL;('"[IQfll{u 111 g.lrtlll:llt li"U.llh
tnmt 11 m UJ'" ;ln;l ( 88)
\ I t \ oU1 t \ lc.,_ .. }tlrJIIt nt f....,J t bt. urpt: r b td
l n,iut_r h' tltt" \\ .u t u tt.:tll 'nl unJN J '-l.HJ IMk r
m t '' t \l"t l.:n mn 1 , \\.Jt tc t ' rn h}
J r 111d ng U1.trl I I ( :u r<ft.,lm l'rn I"' a
u l tht..""f 8 Mt) I {Ill f dh H f.t. .. !ttf"'lll hL
h "t:J tl)r k..t\\ l\: IJUb to 1 f,WtiCIO f,
I r Uh \ rrh .. dulhl f ll,l!lmJ \\ u \\ tr
\ r r 'H J.J \\\I tr p<h r.t mthc
ct 1 \ II l :;JI vt .. \ r <;I l \Clf
l ' I'\:

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J ,J \\ h.h tht>r fnrt d r I \ I m l
H.lc.: f g:tnt t'llt ( I JJ )
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1
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h..J run JlfC'o j(!U h bt l1 nt.ldt: tnto \ .J T II Of (.J h 1
\ oru i'r<Qm fim: hard d
n:\\.'tl!e rnt r \\ \ltl' rhrl'.1d' tln pbtn tuhru:-
1
twl and rlf) Hccruht I 11 twtrnc s
OUt.: dt \lllll'i .1ft" madr.: \\ u:h doubk Ill rr\l:Ul
m<l \\. n1 prunanlr t(,r ''. rm \h .trher \ l o1 npt
1
1
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'HI llil.l Jt: n \ 1J
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11
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'' oi a g:trmcnt betn
\LIT)
.... 1 here lwrdlr ,1nythi11g nt the 1\'tlrld rhat
:mnc man cclml(lf 111akc a linle worse a11d sdl
a little thea per aud the peoplr ,,]w CL"lnsidcr
b rJ
sr 1.:' ., (' pa c;: 9
\\ r s r or l " I !'! n F u
rcputatt :m n adt.m c U"tn h t.n
. oa )It d "'u:h did J1
3rOUHd [I'{IUJ .md U \bt:Jdn
It igh Irm th r
t11 n: dtmLJn mn h th
flanncl (.'lu lJ r 1;. per p.1
\\ HJl <:'Rl" Tlu h..u:J m 1 tru r r
prt(t' ,lfoHc are this 11ltl11 s pr.:y. '' Rrtslan
l1..1s d agmul rib;, !, pmmm tt 1
boldh 111 :.1 k1ncl oi r 11 d ff
IJ h ( wiup t m h ch n d
\\ .\l 'i I 8 \N Jl Jl1c ti ip 0 f narcnal rn nnmg .mmnd t ht.:
rop nf the Tn.OUSI u .:md formtng a lo trou cr
tops usually 1:1Cl-d :.md tm:erl.tc:('d nnd zhcu sc.uncJ w
the watM line nf
\\ Al"li1 1.1 N 1 .'\ 11 im i.:.iblc lm:ing hnt !.t:tt> wais-t
ts m:tde
''ARt Y.trn tn.tlQOrn .md
h) thl' \\ t 1 1 The 'varp prn gene rail)
\cfllc:nlhtn adot.h org:tmtt:nt as\.1ppos(;d wthc
Fl UJ. u } Jfn. or\\ c.fr whu::h crosswu} s from
<ichngc Lu
\\A rc..H Pl"'lCh.I r !\ small pocket m r.h" srdc from of.1
man l; tTousers. of tht: \h:lt st}lc- to c..trq .1
\\Oltdt l...11lcd a fob p lCket-
\\ J 'V IN<;, 111\: rnh: rrro::sing a r tWO t-. of ).lnl tlll
\.' ARI' \\ltr. .. h run:s dt\\n tht: length of the doth nJ
the 'v' 1 T '' hu:.h nms ncms ... rlu Whhl1 In knuu tg
lrom 11. t 2l
\\ Hl 11 "\ ..-hronun
bla .. k to \\hut: ..;.c.tle
colur' of the pearun 111 " ...
t to tht: slmrt
\' lit Jf ON WH fT[ In" h:-tm ppl
\\ hitt: figttfc'- or:stnpes 1 \\ h tr..
o:lruwt .. th It l
...
WHITJ 1 H. f he term fi r
\'\ 11 KJ c.. 1 he .atulm .1 fibc; t t
frum unc :s<"cttoo of -dt\: 1 h.
pcr'$prr.m 'fi I' Oatl"porRJ .tJ tl L: h 1
t \lUtdt o;uriJ c of th :iarlt tl
nno,phert'
\\ I IlO\\,k-..;; f (f -\\ mer HJ rn
l.1bri-(; ld ' c:
\\ INI S\. Rl '\n Jlt :f d t
\\lth (l{ tJU'<; dut are ru
, ,1ll.ar but l( r .
UT5l h) the Dol,
\\ 1"'-![!-,(llt 1 r .\ brgt.> nccl.:t11: knm utt.i an a
nunru.r \\ nh l!);tr.t loor" lr io: insp1red l) but fal!it'l)
ttnbuk'ti m tltr [lul:e of" tndror (Sr( flt,ugla.;
L.1irktnL p:tgt l.lt.J pag(! 2SU )
\\ l.l ll I. \R. S?f 2:JU
\\.11'.\a riP pagt! t14
\\V(1L- I timu Ul.(' (0\trJng t:oat ufslti!cp
t.nhcr .mmul< 11Im \\uWJt knm:ed or filllrll"
pro l({u tad from tiber
"(.ltlLl n e; l'fllet:<>::. of ...unlllg .scouring.
blc.nd..ing. otUug conJing. :mtl r;pinning prn c1i :.hon
t:.lbic!i \\:JMt .. n1d rev.urLcd '' ool. "tbru ... 1 ka h;wc
bt-cn t'ltrdcd .n1J fmm w<.tol in'' hich .u1rth111g
bur a par.;tlld po!itwn of tbc iihen; "' nonct.tblc
d1 uncr from \Hltsicd) ;am Ht '\\ h1ch wdol flbc1:;
mat kedl)
\\OR:..'- lNG lit rr Nltt'LPi J.1ckct sleeve buttonhole:.
th.1t .:tetwlh unbutton (Sa page 1 )
\\,'lR'HHl BHJur.: smooth imndcd tnbric in
\\ hch the nructurc and coiPr dc.1rh dell ned .

' \ mg til the and smoothness of both the
pn1 nd mtcrbd11g
\'" RHID \1 M combjng.
tlro\\ mg. and wot..o;red int ) .m1 lor
m.mutt:lurc mm cloths
\\ORHJif' "1..\RN:o:i M:1JL' frcm ti1mhmg the \\lt'llcn
(rhcr> th n clu.1 fi,, pJt.1JJcl til t::Jt"h nth<-.r, then dra\\ fhg
,md ugltrl) tht! 'i1nooth )lrll. rmmc comc.s
from 11 little vtllagt" 111 Nt-'rfoU:, \\ar-;tc:td
\Vt'JHN 1 u .\ da!'i nf 11cd:wc,3r fnbru:: in the
JUttcrn 1fl p.trt of wca\'c d.S nppo .. cd m prum.
crobmtdttrlco; anti lund pautt8 \\here llu. pntcm t<J
.1p-plrtJ the f:ilirk 1.'0 \\U\'<'11 \ 11 rc:mlt of rile
\Cn JUt 'r.n" more tc'\;tured thn:kcr i:tbru:, uus
ncckur fu bach. thus miling .1 her ter 1 han
- -
--
d1c prinud \\ lu, h musr rdr on ns inner :urnatul'\'
for its fir111 nnd 'it.llllrc, (St't tlr,.)
\VRAI' COAr A loose fimng. n1.sua.ll} bdltd
b:nlambc-lrkt' with turucdup Ctll1.1t inrmduccJ In
and lloUp,ikd during tfw-e1rlr usu II\
in C;\Mfli-lAlR or flecee
)A IU > Unit o ... equal to thu'tl !ill\Jnclu. m
.\llh!t;k.t. the Fuglhh i'l.ll M<lTH.IaJd CS\abJi .. hcd b)
th<! g.l1.'Crnmcm. h) two fll.Jd.s on n meud
rod in rlt" the I luusr of
I '::trl iamcm. or n.q q me tcr.
)ARN-D'l ID .\ fnbt'I0:\\0\l'll \\lJh )"anlS that lt;t\t:
:1lre:hlt lot.oell :1:- op.pu:-ed to piLc:c:-,dp.:d, where rh.
fabri\ tS fir.sr WU\'Cn and then dyed.
)'OKl The fubnc Q\'Cr thl! houldr:rs n:ncl jotnl!'d
w thL lowe p.Lrt of the g:umcm a' 'iC:un
:.nos:\ the "he:.'f or ba.:k (Srr t,;l.trk G.1blc, p.agl" 106)
ZEPU YR ,\ )"dnt offight\\'dglu W(.iRSTI:ll, .ottr:n
blended '"'ith other fibc1-s: also. pplic5 to a s-heer. soft.
woolc.n f.'tbrlc The name. is From Ztj!hyrus. god
(>r the wcs [\\ md.
ZOOT -uJ r Outr.Jgtou!i snit worn b HJttng
hipstc.r_.., in lhc ll)40ll.
rcf(rn:d lu 4l\ .. tilt? bndgc of the ho<,dlt Jml'
Jmd hca\'ltr padJt\1. sq(ll1rc :1 1 :tpcrcd \\ .1i'>t,
:wd cxh:ncled :tltnoo;t ro tht: knees. koggcd
tr('llo;cr, mcasuring:\lmv t th1rq rwu inches .u the
;tnJ ring dm\ 11 1\l twch:e n-;1 flftccn inlhL-s nr
bt.'ltH'llll, Jlt:kl'd up alnmsr rn t:hl.' chest by
B \Vom wirh cquaih btZlrrc
lrkc st-..: foot kt:y r:hnms. :;nakc roll collan.-d slurt ...
tutd wtde bornmcd head \War th1' t:t,lorful coo;tumc
au carl} rebcllion of h." "
t\juths ag.1iosr the conformt!.>t order
. -
ELECl-E 1) 131 I3LI OGJv\P I IY
mr.:r il.lll I Magazam cdc; .'\F l n.l'llOptJia o(Tcx
ulcr l'rrnn .. -c ll.Jil tl)C,u
ll:trd) T/lt. I:11gltSlmum'S- Sui1 Q!_lartrt Uo t..,
1994
\llgtlom Umbconu. rlrr '" I.JIIc'S l.lJ1fl
l uiwrse . .!<JOO
Und11 1\L'rt. IU.f}ll l Jrtsi A 1\n rtll!.<i,
lbkur: \\ m i.ll n lllnr} Dll1'fioun'1' Wtar \\ t 1
ll}C,$
HLrcruh. Jphn, .1nd cduurs Magazm<
F.irlwms jill' Alcn, I l.trpLr & f<Jl\\. 19(>6
Uorcr t, 1\tm'(" .r\ Gmdr to Q_uafit}'"' Mc-ll.nl'l'ar
Norton, J 98).
lmmrrrtl}'Sflitab/f;. fknrmrs t!(SI)Ic iul!ruwm
\rtrn. Nt1rtnrJ JlJlJO
Hril{gland. J\ S .. td Tire: i\lt.'lcftrn 1;zilor. Ou!Jrttrr, Clotl!lrr, 3
\OillfiiCS. L:JXWJl
Buzz.tcr:tri ni. V1 ttor i:t t.le. Ekianu .md St}'lt'. Til'il llundaJ
1e.ars '!f.\ 1m's Iitslrimu. Lupl'ru u: Co_, ll)ll.l
. ,\ fcrrh:,ITrs / Jnfi !'diton. 1986.
B} nfc:, 'tht \liclc lmllgt" .Mms litslrionsi11 1J1 ir.drr,
nllo 1:110. B. 1: Hnt..s(onl. 1 LJ'N
CIJailll, hall\Ois Tlrl'lluok ti{Tics. t\bbl\illt-. 1 q9o+.
Chcnnnnc. r-arid. J\ J rasllimrs rl:111HI131 ion.
19.n
I )nnncr. Jane. r.ul1iou i11 tiJ( T11'1:111iu a11J Tlurti,s. lnu
All.m, II.J7 3
fl us .. c r. A b n CIMI!a au,ltlw .\1an: Tlu Pn'trc1plrs
.\fc'ns nr,$s. Vill:1rll. 19X;;.
. J\ l,lkin ... tlrl' Man \\:1.llah}. 1981.
.Sty!L iJIJd the Mun: f luw ,w,! \.\'lrmw Bur Fi11r
Clorhts. I brpl.' rCull im.. 19 ") 6
lulledllrl. Guiliano ,\ftru liars. Zanll [Juoni. lfJ'H'l
< Tlzr: Tt.:: TrmJs,wd Tr.uliritw.
19'.)1 i,
1 jiurgttti, Cristinn OCI.t\O, IJt)'i
t\nu:tln \ttt'IH}'_Iil't' 1'i:ur:s Fnirduld
Bonks. 1975
J l.trt \' riJ Tirs \ f);A PuhLt .. uon

X
,udt."f: \\ Mm tn MfL Rwl ola
J lull.mdl"r Annl mend Suu fm f :.rw1
Hrm f IIL)Jlf 19<14
ht" .,...,. Paul A U:i.!r.lrurtt J l.1.rmun 1
l,) U.1k1'a l.uJrmLl Olg.1 J lcriu.-n .;11 ,l 1du
l .1 ntan'l\';.L Th, PrdMTa} l.nry. fCIJ r.fur .il il:dmm f bntl n
J
I .IH"r l:tnlc!i TJu Ut1ol: !!.f"trll<lCil L nn mtr } '\rrJ
1
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nmJra \\ e-td(nidd .& hhcoJ n 1 c
L.cmus A J
l'rJrJJI. 1998
I C'llr r: K:Jthcnne Murn nJ Ul \ t (. r "
Chas-lc:- '-\ Bcnnl"U PuhJacnt1 tn I') JC
lunc, Ah'iPn Tl:r 1.. )v.l ht ' lJ -.
Mel CuiiJl J lllti. Rl:uah 1")').1
TIII'.ManL!{ra!lucm -1 h mL & Hmhntt .....
Mnlossi t.:tinunmo. OrtOJundrcJ)i..JtHr{ltJLa., \1i%u ll:
_g.JII.:t rleomnd Lb:t.ra f'9Q
Rich.ud farold 1-..ur.s:b Lmrd
Alt'ns Nrlc rntlrr CtrliUf) R rnoJ. 19 <J
Ia} ')ht:!T). Ul!JJJII''ll't'r J\nght Hml .!t 1.1li
r Drtsl.fM :,um::s ".lrtll r lll"'
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