JAKARTA & BALI CULINARY PROFESSIONAL NEWSLETTER

NOVEMBER - DECEMBER 2009 | FREE

Let’s Talk
TURKEY
RUSTIC ROASTS
The Accidental
Baker
 presidents’ message

TASTE TASTE
team contents Dear Culinary Members,

We have had a tremendous year and this seems a great Our pastry chefs have done really well and will also be
time to thank the entire culinary community for the representing us in Lyons, France, home of pastry. The two
editorial consultant 5. President’s Message incredible support we have had throughout the year. young Balinese pastry chefs who will represent Indonesia
Sarah Dougherty Chefs who have given their time to strengthen the have worked very hard and are at the top of their
6. Short Order - What’s New association, the suppliers who have sponsored our events profession. We applaud their skill and all the mentors
contributors and competitions and the young chefs who have brought and supporters they have had within the association and
Kora, Marco Rucola, Katrina Valkenburg, 8. Talking Turkey at Hu’u
new energy and optimism to the Indonesian culinary beyond it. We also acknowledge the generosity of our
Es Dee, Kayti world. sponsors who have made it possible for us to compete.
10. Oscar’s Way
coordinator & marketing International competitions are costly to enter and we
10 With a New Year approaching and still many great
Miranti Amandya, Natalia Iswara 12. A Modern Man rely on our sponsors and friends in the community.
events on the horizon we have good reason to feel very
photographers 14. The Culinary Journey of Christian optimistic and excited about the culinary world we We are pleased to see the association is such great shape
Dewandra, Sarah Hinckley live in. The aim of the BCP and ACP is to create an right now and encourage new members to join us in
environment where we are always striving for the best supporting our young chefs club which has proved a
graphic designers 24. The Accidental Baker and we have been recognised internationally and at home popular and highly successful program.
DeKa
in this quest. This feels very satisfying. With both of us
26. Wine Tails as Indonesian nationals heading the sister associations
distribution
To all of you we wish a very happy and festive New Year,
Gede Sudiartawan, Arif Junaidi we have every reason to feel proud of the standards of and to those celebrating Christmas, a very Merry one.
12 28. Café Couture:
excellence we have achieved. With the brotherhood of
Local Inspirations
office chefs from around the world we still have far to go and
BCP Secretariat (attn. Kathryn) yet it is safe to say that our future looks very bright. Vindex Tengker and Made Putra.
29. Hatten Turns 15
Travel Works Communication International
Jl. Kesari no. 60a, Sanur 80223, Bali, 30. On The Rocks In the New Year our Indonesian team will represent all of
Indonesia Asia in Chile after winning the Global Chef Asia trophy
Tel: 62 – 361 – 284095 32. Chef’s Xmas: in Hong Kong. Bali has the honour of taking Indonesia
Fax: 62 – 361 – 270189 Culinary Christmas and Asia to the prestigious final leg of the Global Chef
E-mail: media@balichefs.com competition, and for us it is a little like sending a team
30 33. Global Chefs
Website: www.balichefs.com to the Olympics. We will be cheering them on. Simply
reaching this level of competition is a prestigious honour,
34. BCP lunches
which is well deserved, and it is a first for us. The WACS
World Congress will be held at the same time and so
37. Young Chefs Update
many of us will be there to watch the event.
38. Chefs Day Out

pre press & printing by Cover photograph of southern style Turkey
PT. Dian Rakyat with all the trimmings
Prepared by Philip Mimbimi from
TASTE Newsletter can be downloaded at Nutmegs at Hu’u
www.balichefs.com Photo by Dewandra Djelantik
Taste Magazine
In this issue we asked some of our chefs what they would New Year’s Eve is normally a wash out in Bali and KuDeTa is
like for Christmas, so you can see what’s missing from your packed to the brim so we might head up to Ayana, stay the
list. If cooking at home is on the agenda, we had Philip night and party at The Rock Bar. As everyone else is partying
at Hu’u cook us up a fabulous USA style turkey dinner. our chefs are busier than ever during the festive season, so
Oscar at St Regis cooked us some roasts that would make we’ll look forward to catching up again in January.
great alternatives, and Danish sandwiches for boxing day.
Of course we’d have to put them on Kayuapi’s incredible
wood-fired bread and to be patriotic we’d wash it down Have a very happy new year,
with some mimosas made with Hatten’s Jepun. Some of
Katrina’s wine cocktails would make a nice start to the The Taste Team.
day, or perhaps it would finish us.

4 TASTE | November - December 2009 November - December 2009 | TASTE 5

 short orders
Festive Baking
at Carrefour
“Christmas is always a very busy time for bakers,” explains
Denis at Carrefour. “It is a time when customers are
looking for traditional products associated with so many
treasured memories.” Always anticipating the demands
of his customers, Denis has been busy testing festive
recipes from around the world. To sample his culinary
delights of the world, drop in to Carrefour’s bakery. If
you have a special request this jolly baker is happiest
when his customers walk away happy.
Contact Carrefour on (0361) 8477 222
Place Your Bets
Canggu Club is fast becoming the venue of choice for the
big race, which all Australians know as The Melbourne Cup.
This year the club starts the revelry at the indecent hour of
10 am with live race coverage, champagne, buffet lunch,
fashions on the field, sweepstakes and rumour has it, a sly
bookie or two.This year, in addition to the single entry tickets
available to members for Rp150,000 and non-members at
Rp250,000 (including champagne cocktail and lunch), the
club is offering VIP tents. For $1500, companies, or friends,
can book a private marquee on the lawn and invite ten guests
to enjoy the race, enjoy lunch, complimentary sweepstake
tickets and race books. Company banners will be competing
for space among the race colours and fashionable fillies.
For bookings contact Canggu Club on
cup2009@cangguclub.com
KuDeTa Joins Mozaic
on Miele List
Mozaic has until now been the only Bali restaurant
recognised by the judges of the Miele guide. Joining
them now in Asia’s top ten list is the stylish eatery
that becomes the hottest party venue when it counts,
KuDeTa. Bali’s Mozaic Restaurant Gastronomique and
KuDeTa have been voted among the Top 10 Restaurants
in Asia in the 2009 edition of the Miele Guide. The
Miele Guide claims to be Asia’s first truly independent
and authoritative guide to the region’s finest restaurants,
written by food experts. “We were aware we were in the
running and went to Singapore to collect our award, it’s
great,” says Donni at KuDeTa. Looks like New Year’s Eve
will be busier than ever at the luxe venue. For enquiries
contact: lany@nirwanalestari.com
6 TASTE | November - December 2009
short orders
RATIONAL Introduces
Full Service Centres
We are seeing more and more of the shiny, smart RATIONAL
®
SelfCooking Centre showing up in the island’s best kitchens and
now to support the buyers, RATIONAL have introduced technical
support and service centres to Bali and Jakarta. RATIONAL
Partners, PT Gastro Gizi Sarana and PT Wahana Boga Nusantara
(Lotus Food Services) can respond to service calls, troubleshoot,
carry service parts and offer service maintenance contracts to all
RATIONAL users and customers for CPC, CombiMaster (CM)
®
and SelfCooking Centre (SCC) lines.
PT Gastro Gizi Sarana (02 – 1563 7373 or gastro-mariska@
centrin.net.id)
Lotus Food Services (0361 – 701650 ext 206/non food or
kitchen@lotusfood.com)
Millie Chan (Sales Director for Asia Pacific)
RATIONAL International (+65 9770 9820 or m.chan@
rational-international.com
What a Barra
Executive Chef Dorin Schuster of The Legian came across a
local product that he felt was so good he approached Lotus
Distribution to act as the local agent. Farmed Java barramundi
is raised in open sea water with no antibiotics or hormones.
It is farmed in circular floating cages held off shore ensuring
that they are still in sea water until they are farmed and flown
fresh the same day. Lunch at The Legian is always a treat, the
barramundi fillet served by Dorin is proof that local producers
are working together with chefs to satisfy the local demand for
high quality products.
For more information on Java Barramundi contact Lotus
on (0361) 701650.
Hatten Launches
A New Look
More than just a locally based wine, fifteen years down the
track Hatten are expanding, improving and updating their
tropical world wines and giving them a slick new face. At a gala
event held in Sanur the new labels were dramatically unveiled
one by one. According to sales and marketing manager Gigi
van Kuijk the time had come for a fresh, sleek look. Sadly
the beautiful artwork of earlier labels has been laid to rest but
the new look Hatten is contemporary and in keeping with
the company’s excellent growth. For more information on
Hatten’s growth read our article in this issue.
November - December 2009 | TASTE 7
 Talking Turkey
at Hu’u
The Americans have made the turkey their own in many ways. No sooner is the
Thanksgiving season over than Christmas comes around, and despite all attempts
to modernise the Christmas dinner, turkey still holds pride of place on many festive
tables.
As turkey season approaches Taste decided to go to the source and asked Philip
Mimbimi of Nutmegs Restaurant at Hu’u to prepare his idea of a great turkey
roast.
Chefs have all sorts of tricks up their culinary sleeves but when it comes to down
home cooking, surprising how many reach back to their mother’s recipes, Philip is
no exception.
He says in his neighbourhood there were a lot of Mexican families, so after his Hu’u will be offering a thanksgiving feast
family sat down to the traditional roast, they would rock up to the neighbours with all the trimmings and a traditional
who enjoyed their turkey stuffed into enchiladas. The protein-rich, low-fat bird Christmas lunch. For bookings Ph:
has a lot going for it and whatever way you slice it, the turkey is a sure sign of a 736576. Jl Oberoi, Petitenget, Seminyak.
celebration.

Cornbread stuffing CORNBREAD STUFFING Corn kernels fresh

Egg Garlic roasted
Sourdough bread Butter
Bacon, cooked, chopped
Giblets, roasted METHOD:
Salt Combine all ingredients and a bowl and
Pepper, black fresh ground mix well. Mix in the eggs to bind. Place
Parsley fresh in a well butter casserole dish and bake
Thyme fresh until firm. Cut and serve.

CRANBERRY SAUCE METHOD:

Cranberries, frozen Sweat the garlic and shallots in some
Butter butter. Then add all remaining ingredients
Shallots, minced except for the pink peppercorns and
Garlic, minced parsley. Simmer over low heat until the
Orange juice, fresh squeezed cranberries have slightly burst open.
Cinnamon stick Add cornstarch and thicken to desired
Star anise consistency. Remove from heat then add
Stock peppercorns and parsley. Adjust seasoning
Salt and taste. Serve room temperature or
Pepper, black fresh ground chilled as condiment.
Parsley chopped
Pink peppercorns, dried

November - December 2009 | TASTE 9


OSCAR’S WAY
Using different and more economical cuts of meat isn’t about cutting costs
as much as it is about producing more flavourful dishes. While the mouth
may enjoy the smooth, buttery texture of wagyu, around the world people are
looking back to the days of a simple juicy steak and a flavoursome roast.
1 Many Executive Chefs get too
busy to cook, which is why Oscar
Perez prefers working in a smaller
hotel. The Danish chef who has put
St Regis Resort, Bali on the map is
one of the most enthusiastic cooks on
the island and far from ready to hang
up his jacket.
He can wax lyrical for hours about
food and following our discussion on
using a wider variety of meat than
we are currently seeing on five-star
menus, he offered to show Taste what
could be achieved using lesser cuts of
meat and local products.
“There is so much innovation
in food now, genetically produced
breeds, molecular gastronomy, the
reaction is a trend going back to real
flavours and textures in food. It is
bound to happen,” he explains.
For inspiration for rustic dishes
that are full of flavour, he harks back
to his Danish roots.
“In Denmark we are very proud
of our local food and so almost
everything we use is local. The breed
of cows we use for steaks and roast
beef is the French Charolais.”
Naturally here this breed is not
easily found so Oscar uses Australian
angus from 1824, Australian wagyu
and his favourite, dry-aged US beef.
He is also very impressed with the
local wagyu product, Tonketsu
from Suntory. His pork is local,
from Mama’s and the results are
10 TASTE | November - December 2009
2
astoundingly good.
He is a great believer in supporting
local producers and believes that
local chefs should do all they can to
encourage and support them.
His local pork belly is first braised
upside down in water at a low heat for
about 30 minutes, then turned skin-
side up and bathed in salt and some
herbs and returned to the oven. LThe
results belie claims that the local pork
is too wet to achieve a good crackling,
this pork is as good as you will find
anywhere.
In Denmark pickles are widely
used and in winter they are served
to cut the fat in meaty dishes. To
accompany the pork he serves pickled
red cabbage and pickled cucumber,
mashed potatoes and a rich jus.
For his roast beef he chooses a
topside, a cheaper cut with very little
fat. His technique is to cut off the
surface fat, lay a layer of fresh thyme
around the meat and then wrap the fat
around the roast. Braise it for colour
and then slow cook it in the oven until
it reaches the desired done-ness. Let
it rest and slice it to see the beautiful
results.
The beef also gets the Danish
treatment with a Danish version
of the mustardy vegetable dish,
piccalilli.
The beauty of all this roasted meat
is the leftovers, the makings of two
legendary Danish traditions; the
1. Crisp pork belly with red cabbage,
pickled cucumber + natural jus
2. Oscar in his kitchen
3. Side dishes ready for service
4. Traditional Danish open sandwiches
smorgasboard and the Danish open 3
sandwich. Oscar has trained his staff
to create the perfect sandwiches with
traditional toppings.
St Regis is a truly international
kitchen and to show the versatility
Executive Sous Chef Balinese Agung
Adriawan prepares a traditional
Javanese beef stew which is normally
made with second-grade topside.
For his Semur, he has experimented
with beef shank instead. The meat
is marinated with a spice mix of 4
coriander seed, garlic and candlenut
then simmered slowly in sweet soy
producing a fragrant Asian-style Osso
Buco that falls apart on the fork.
“Diners are excited by what’s
new, and having access to luxurious
ingredients, but then tastes go to the
other extreme. I feel like we are coming
back to wanting more flavour in our
food, more rustic food,” he says.
He says he is lucky to have learned
home-style Danish cooking because
many younger chefs aren’t exposed to it.
He has experimented with translationg
these dishes to a restaurant menu at
St Regis, presenting them in a more
modern way, and found it worked well.
He inspires all his cooks to be
creative in the kitchen, under a very
disciplined system that is not different
to the one he rose through the ranks
with, and he says his Balinese staff are
among the best he has worked with.
Ph. (0361) 77 37 30
November - December 2009 | TASTE 11

A Modern Man
The man responsible for creating Bangkay at the
Nikko seems very much a traditionalist and Nikko is
committed to quality and freshness before innovation,
the chef behind it however has very modern manners.
Stylish presentation
at Bangkay
Masayasu Haruyama hails from
Tokyo where he decided to take on
a skill in preference to a profession,
a world he saw risky as Japanese
executives are at the mercy of their
companies and live or die by their
success.
He started as an apprentice and
spent plenty of time peeling vegetables
and washing dishes at a large hotel
before deciding to take a job at a
small restaurant where he was able to
be involved in the process of creating
food from delivery to service.
“In a large hotel you are exposed to
only one area at a time. I wanted to see
what happened from purchasing to
the arrival of the food, to butchering
and sauce making before choosing
my specialty,” he says.
Masayasu has transcended the
traditional world and made his
way through many countries, been
exposed to myriad methods and
found inspiration in all sorts of
unexpected places throughout Asia,
the Middle East and Australia. He
is a man of the world yet still bills
himself as a Japanese chef firstly.
For over 17 years he worked with
Hyatt. In Indonesia, Guam, China,
Egypt, Dubai and Australia. He has
worked with the best and learned
from many of them.
Clearly motivated by success he
happily talks about the man who
introduced teppanyaki to America
and championed the knife throwing
theatrics that are most often associated
3 4
with. Benihana may have made it
famous with their theatrics but the
teppan grill has been a traditional
style of cooking in Japan going back
to the ‘40s.
In Masayasu’s world anything
can be adapted and incorporated if it
works. The basis of his cooking remains
traditional in that he seeks harmony
and freshness above all things.
“The enjoyment of textures from
hard, soft, smooth, crisp, tender and
mellow to include hot and cold, sweet Chef Masayasu
and bitter, sour etc, all things must be
in harmony in Japanese preparation Nikko Bali Resort and Spa
and that includes the presentation as Jl Raya Nusa Dua Selatan
well,” he explains. Ph. (0361) 77 33 77
Any influences that work in
harmony are acceptable and he
admires the style of Nobu in stretching
the limits.
The time he spent in Adelaide in
Australia has had a profound effect
as he found there an abundance of 1. Teppan style theatrics
fresh produce and also discovered the 2. Butterflied prawns
many great wines from that region, 3. Succulent beef with garlic
many of which can be found on the 4. Harmony in flavour, presentation and texture
Bangkay wine list.
1
“Basically my style of cooking is
fundamentally Japanese but as I have
learned new things it has changed
slowly and I have adopted some
western methods,” he explains.
The changes though are subtle and
completely in keeping with a Japanese
philosophy. Bangkay restaurant is
the stage where he currently appears,
where to next is anyone’s guess and
for this chef that is wonderful.
November - December 2009 | TASTE 13
 Grilled watermelon, Mahi Mahi,
lemongrass crème fraiche, coriander

Christian, for his youth, has

had an inspiring journey. From the
THE CULINARY JOURNEY OF north–west coast of the United States
he was lured by the opportunity to

Christian
work for the recently un-retired “Chef
of the Century,” Joel Robuchon, at
the MGM Grand in Las Vegas in
his eponymous restaurant. Serving a

Hinckley
Christian in Amandari’s The Amandari, Ubud, has recently engaged
organic garden
the services of a fine young chef, Christian
Hinckley. In honor of their twentieth
anniversary in October Taste Magazine
talked to Christian about the value of tradition
and the particular exciting challenges that
are created in upholding the great reputation
of a well established much loved resort such
as The Amandari, Ubud.
BY KAYTI DENHAM
very sophisticated menu of traditional
French Cuisine in the desert that is Las
Vegas gave Christian his first taste of
the slightly bizarre world of high class
dining in unexpected surroundings so
it was no wonder that he felt Bhutan
was a natural next step!
Christian admits he has made
some unusual choices but explains
they are progressive, the journey, the
other way round, he says would have
been very different. The atmosphere
and tranquility offered in Bhutan
would not have prepared anyone for
Vegas, yet the unusual synthesis of
twenty four hour a day ‘glamour’ and
the demands of a French master chef
was the perfect preparation for the
more independent position of chef at
the Amankora of Bhutan.
Here in the landlocked kingdom,
“The Kingdom of the Thunder
Dragon” the absence of neon lights,
fast cars and furious living gave
Christian the challenge he was
searching for and the ability to create
exquisite dishes that combine high
quality ingredients with a simple
approach to preparation that provides
guests with satisfaction and pleasure
rather than just awe.
The move to Amandari seems
to combine the elements of both
Christian’s previous positions. Ubud
attracts an eclectic variety of visitors,
many of whom have come to rely on
the welcome of the Amandari and
return regularly to enjoy the beauty of
the resort and the comfort it provides.
Christian understands the needs
of his guests well, their desire to find
the familiar, but also have the choice
of the unusual, to be able to depend
of the best quality of ingredients, the
freshest produce and make choices
based around personal preferences.
With this in mind he is approaching
subtle changes to the menu with
great care, his love of fine ingredients
and dealing with local producers has
brought him in to contact with the
best suppliers on the island so he
can make good judgments about his
markets and his customers.
A gentle shift will begin with the
lunch menu and only when he has
reached his idea of happiness will he
consider the next change.
Christian understands very
clearly what it is like to ‘need’ your
‘comfort’ food and has his own
particular favorites. A big fan of
Japanese food he also enjoys the
Indonesian menu, especially, and I
have yet to meet a chef who doesn’t
enjoy this, Babi Guling. Though
Christian is the first chef I have met
that likes to drink Guinness.
No stranger to Bali, Christian had
visited with his family previously and
loved it, being in Ubud amongst the
tranquility of the forest and close to
the ‘natural’ Bali is a dream come true,
and with close friends from his earlier
journeys also living and working
on the island Christian is looking
forward to embracing the best of both
his previous ‘worlds’ in the always
glamorous and only very slightly
remote resort of the Amandari.
To illustrate Christian’s feel for
freshness and flavours his selection
for Taste includes the piquant Tuna
Tartare with truffle mayo and teriyaki
glaze, a beautiful Mahi Mahi dish with
the lightness and aroma of lemongrass
and coriander and a really superb
standard, the Spaghetti Carbonara
with a velvety parmesan cream, basil
and summer vegetables. Through his
intelligent choices Christian creates
the perfect way to celebrate the essence
of the Amandari.
Ph. (0361) 975 333

14 TASTE | November - December 2009 November - December 2009 | TASTE 15

 then shaped by hand and rested half
an hour more before being baked. It
takes almost three days to make this
bread,” he laughs.
This process however is no
laughing matter to Olivier who
has done enormous research and
consulted experts from all over the
world to create this bread.
Using mostly local flour he tops it
up with whole grains of sunflowers,
flaxseed and soaked wheat kernels
for his multigrain, whole wheat and
whole rye flour from Australia to
make the rustic loaves and raisins and
walnuts for his popular fruit loaf.
“The local flour is not ideal for
this type of bread, so it takes time
and skill to work with it,” he says. “A
good baker knows how to work with
for him. Trying to instil the same 1. The rustic texture is a result of the
passion in them and make them feel slow process
involved has been part of the process 2. The wood-fired oven is kept at a
but with the bread being baked in constant temperature 24 hours a day
a big open kitchen overlooking the 3. Coffee wood for firing the oven
philodendron garden, it makes for a
pleasant working environment and
he feels the bakers are happy.
Olivier claims to have the most
ecologic wood fired oven on the planet
as the coffee wood consumption is
very small. It took three people six
months to build the “blue oven”, it
weighs fifty tons, the twelve tons of
refractory mass requires four tons
of insulation mainly vermiculite (a
natural mineral) to keep the heat in.
An almost 24 hour a day operation
with very little wood used to keep the 1
oven at the constant temperature of

The different flours, and the flour does 264 degree C, this is truly a labour of

Accidental Baker
1 Time and again I am struck
by what happy people bakers are.
According to BCP member, Denis,
baker at Bali’s Carrefour, Denis, it is
because what they create gives people
pleasure. Perhaps it is that simple.
Former chef, Jean Philippe Ollivier
is one such baker, a man so obsessed
with his bread that he has rebuilt his
wood-fired oven eight times in the
five years since he embarked on this
latest leg of his culinary journey.
The results speak for themselves,
bread that is so wonderful to eat you
can sense the incredible commitment
in every mouthful, it’s crusty and
chewy and full of flavour.
“I had been working as a chef for
over thirty years and first came to
Indonesia twenty two years ago,” he
explains. His first job in Indonesia
was as Executive Sous Chef at Bali
Hyatt.
“I was the opening chef / F&B
manager at Amanwana and over the
years I have been part of many other
above: wood–fired bread at Kayu Api opening teams including Maxim’s
below: Ollivier with his philodendrons Restaurant in New York. My last
job was Executive Chef and F&B
Director at Bali Intan Resort. When
the second bomb went off I decided
to take a break,” he explains.
He built his original oven to make
bread purely for himself, but he got
hooked, literally.
“I really wanted to have Warisan
as my first client. When I took my
samples to see Chef Doudou he
placed an order straight away. At that
time I was making the bread by hand
and it nearly killed me filling that
first order,” he laughs.
The wood fired bread is created on
a natural starter, sea salt and reverse
osmosis water. The starter is kneaded
at slow speed and then proofed
for at least eighteen hours at room
temperature before being chilled,
six hours to cool it down from 28
degrees C to 4 degrees C, ( the starter
is cooled down by using -18 degree
C ice pack) it is kept in a cooler at 4
degree C for at least 18 hours. The
dough is kneaded again at slow speed
and rested for one hour, cut and
rested for another hour, loaves are
vary so the baker has to be in tune love, and bread lovers have responded
with it.” – from restaurants to households,
Kayuapi is using over 4 tons of Kayuapi’s wood-fired bread has
flour a month, although he won’t say people raving on like lunatics –
exactly what his output is. He doesn’t perhaps it’s in the dough?
advertise or seek out customers, they
all come to him through word of
mouth.
“My concept is to make this a café, Kayuapi is located on Jl. Kuwum
the bread has taken over for a while off Jl Raya Semer, Krobokan.
but I am in the process of making the Ph: 7877476.
café,” he says although he is not sure
if he will ever have a sign. “At first I 2 3
was a little scared I think and then it
became a selling point,” he laughs.
The main feature of the café
will be his incredible collection of
philodendrons, as old as Kayuapi,
which he names as he takes you
around. The menu will feature rustic
specialties like his tomato tart and
another of his obsessions, very good
coffee. The café overlooks the open
bakery.
“Experts have come here and
told me I was crazy, others too, but
I believe in keeping everything very
natural. I don’t want to put processed
food into my body and I won’t feed
them to anyone else, this all feels very
natural to me,” he says of his food
philosophy.
Training his staff and letting go a
little has been yet another challenge

16 TASTE | November - December 2009 November - December 2009 | TASTE 17


advertorial
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the supply chain system must pass
stringent specifications at every check
point to be eligible for the branded
beef program. This is true for both
the 1824 Premium Beef and Wagyu
brands,” he explains.
AAco is one of Australia’s original
producers of Wagyu beef with three
highly sought after brands based on
Rieber Thermoport Pacojet
marbling and genetics. Master Kobe,
described as the very best beef money
can buy is in high demand from
leading chefs around the world. It is
produced from full blood and pure
bred Wagyu cattle and has a marble
score of 9 or greater.
Kobe Cuisine and Darling Downs
Wagyu are produced from full blood
Wagyu bulls crossed with beef cows to
produce a flavoursome and uniquely
Australian product, ranging from
marble score 4 and up.
All cattle from AAco’s branded
beef program are identified with radio
frequency tags soon after birth, which
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packed as 1824 or wagyu brands can Polyscience Thermal Circulator Microplane Grant Sous Vide Bath
be verified using DNA, which allows
efficient traceability back to the
animal’s property of origin.
Free from hormone growth
promotants and antibiotics, AAco’s
wagyu spend approximately 365 days
at AAco’s world class Aronui Feedlot,
eating almost 4,500 kg (10,000
lbs) of a specially formulated grain
ration before leaving at a weight of
approximately 720 kg (1,600 lbs).
Aronui feedlot is recognized as Bamix Thermomix
Australia’s leading Wagyu Feedlot,
currently feeding 17,500 head of full
blood and cross bred Wagyu.
Apart from the sheer size of its beef
production and land holdings, AAco
also brings a wealth of experience to the
Australian beef industry, leading the way
in environmental management as well as
being a member of “The Greenhouse Gas
Challenge”. AAco stake its reputation on
the flavour, tenderness and consistency
of its beef brands.
The products that meet your most demanding needs. The
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 The RATIONAL
Behind A Great Restaurant
Jonny Schwass opened the doors
of Restaurant Schwass in October
2007. After twenty years as a chef,
travelling the world, he finally felt
ready to return home and open his
own restaurant. In a very short span
of time it has become of of New
Zealand’s most successful restaurants.
Recognised widely by the New
Zealand press and finalist for Cuisine
Magazine’s Restaurant of the Year in
both 2008 and 2009 as well as the
winner of South Island Restaurant of
the Year at last year’s Salon Culinaire,
Restaurant Schwass has made a big
impact in a short time.
With a small kitchen and a small
team, Jonny Schwass prepares 90%
of his menu with a RATIONAL
®
SelfCooking Centre , which allows
him incredible flexibility with his
menu and which, he claims, has made
him a better chef.
Taste interviewed Jonny about his
restaurant and his experience with
RATIONAL.
Q: How many years did you work as
a chef before the opportunity to own
your own restaurant came up?
A: I have been cooking for twenty
years and only in the past two have
I been confident enough in my own
20 TASTE | November - December 2009
personal style to open my eponymous
restaurant.
Q: What was your approach to this
very personal venture?
A: The restaurant is called Restaurant
Schwass because it is a very personal
one, I write the menus, design the
wine list and have final say over all
matters regarding the restaurant, I am
very lucky that I have a talented and
loyal staff that allow me the creative
freedom to change the menus often. I
am constantly inspired by ingredients
and the availability of great produce
gives us the ability to develop the
menu on a daily basis
Q: How did you plan your kitchen?
A: It is a small restaurant that seats 38
downstairs and has a private dining
room for 16 upstairs. The kitchen is
designed for three chefs to be able to
produce great food in limited space.
The only reason we can do what we do
in the space we have is because of the
RATIONAL SelfCooking Centre .
® Sales Director
Q: Why did you choose RATIONAL?
A: It is the best unit on the market,
no question. I couldn’t imagine
running my restaurant without one.
We produce nearly 90% of our entire
menu with one piece of equipment,
The RATIONAL
®
Centre 101.
SelfCooking Apply the finishing touch to your hotel, villa or restaurant with exciting
new products from Hospitality Essentials.
Visit our Kerobokan showroom to view more than a thousand sample items
Q: What are your favourite functions? or pick up a copy of our 2009 catalogue for the complete solution to your
A: Overnight roast for pork shoulders, interior and exterior needs.
steam for anglaise, sous vide and
low temperature cooking, the
ability to set to half power for long
slow cooking, ability to prove and PT SOURCING BALI Jl. Gunung Salak 31a, Kerobokan, Bali, Indonesia. Tel +62 361 780 3981 +62 361 744 8025/35 Fax +62 361 430 683 sales@sb-he.com www.sb-he.com
bake bread 5 minutes before guests
arrive, the ability to move quickly
between cooking programs during
a busy service and the self cleaning Custom Made Stoneware Ceramics
functions.
Q: What has proved the greatest
benefit of cooking with RATIONAL
technology?
A: We have not wasted anything
through overcooking in the past year,
custard bases, breads, brulees, trays of
duck confit, 6 pork shoulders roasted
overnight. When you understand
the basics of the RATIONAL you
become a better chef and produce
better tasting food, and that’s what
keeps our guests coming back.
Millie Chan For detail contact: Wendy Thomas
wendy@kevalaceramics.com
International Partner Business
(Asia Pacific)
Singapore Mobile: + 65 9770 9820
Kevala Ceramics Manufacture and Wholesale
E: m.chan@rational-international.com
Jalan Mertasari No. 21, Suwung Kangin,
W: www.rational-international.com
Denpasar, Bali - Indonesia
p. 62361 720718 f. 62361 722674
e. sales@kevalaceramics.com
www.kevalaceramics.com

Customised Design from
Hospitality Essentials
The design team at Hospitality
Essentials have worked together with
some of our leading hotels, restaurants
and villa owners to design and adapt
individual ideas to create unique
and practical accessories suitable for
commercial use.
A wide range of clients regularly
approach the company with ideas/
materials and it is then left to the
talented design team to merge these
into practical and suitable accessories
for use in hotels.
“The process starts with an idea and
often this will start from a material
already in use on the premises or an
existing motif within the hotel. Other
times it is about incorporating natural
elements that reflect the design or the
environment,” explains Tali Philips at
Hospitality Essentials.
design update
The design stage begins with a
consultation and is then drawn up by
the designers and samples of various
elements of the design are presented.
The range can be as large or small as
the client needs it to be.
Hospitality Essentials is now
working with clients from across
the region including Dubai and The
Maldives to create customised designs
that are exclusive and practical.
In addition to the customized
designs, the company also works with Hospitality Essentials
local designers and producers to add Jalan Gunung Salak 31A
to compliment their own collection Kerobokan, Bali - Indonesia.
designed to. A visit to the showroom in T: +62 361 744 8025/35
Gunung Salak, Krobokan is a chance F: +62 361 430 683
to meet the designers and gather C: +62 81337 872 575
ideas from their range which includes www.sb-he.com
everything from rugs to ceramics, Distinctive Accessories for the hotel
service essentials and display items. industry
Sea Coral
Collection
As nature continues to inspire Jengggala, we have recently ventured into her realm
of color effects and depth with the new Sea Coral Collection. Bright and colorful
is not the theme, but rather a glossy rich brown mixed and flowing with the many
shades of sand. Considering Jenggala’s close proximity to the famous beaches of
Bali we didn’t have to travel far to study the color effects of sea coral. As the glaze
is applied by hand and left to nature’s forces in our kilns, this
collection allows each piece to mirror nature as the glaze effect
draws the glossy earthy brown glaze to flow and melt into
the golden varied sandy glaze. This mixture creates an
added form on to the ceramic shape as well as new
hues of color as the glazes mix and fuse together.
With an emphasis on the decorative, each piece of
the Sea Coral Collection is completely unique, one
of a kind, handmade piece.
Established in 1976, Jenggala has a special research and
development team whose work is formulating glazes and
body as well as application techniques. There are over 200 glazes in Jenggala, and
more than 30 years of experience in glaze application techniques. Jenggala proudly
launched the Coral Sea collection.
November - December 2009 | TASTE 23
 News from Doctor Rocket’s Organic Farm
Raw Nature
By Dr. Marco “RUCOLA” de Leonardis
As Thanksgiving is very close by and Christmas is not far away, it’s time to start
thinking of what is going inside the bird. This is why in this issue I am going
to write about the herb Sage, whose most common use today is as flavoring for
meat and poultry stuffings.
Sage is native to countries
surrounding the Mediterranean Sea
and has been consumed in these
regions for thousands of years,
especially because it has impressive
therapeutic properties. The scientific
name for Sage, Salvia officinalis, is
derived from the Latin salvere, to
be saved, in reference to its curative
properties.
The Romans used to say:
Cur moriatur homo cui Salvia crescit
in horto?
‘Why should a man die whilst sage
grows in his garden?’
Sage was in so much demand
in China during the 17th century,
appreciated for the delicious tea
beverage that it makes, that the
Chinese are said to have traded three
cases of tea leaves (camellia sinensis) to
the Dutch for one case of sage leaves.
According to medical herbalists,
Purple Sage, is the preferred
medicinal variety.
Its power in boosting natural
estrogen production make it
particularly beneficial for the night
sweats and hot flushes of menopause
and generally helps the body to adjust
to hormonal changes. In the form of
an infusion (15 gr of leaves in 250 ml
of boiling water), thanks to the volatile
oil thujone, sage has an antiseptic and
antibiotic action and is very effective
for the cure of all affections of the
mouth: to relieve sore throats and,
as a gargle, to encourage the healing
process, especially for mouth ulcers
and sore or bleeding gums.
As a tea (to make it more palatable,
infuse 15 gr of fresh sage leaves in a
liter of boiling water for half an hour,
add 30 gr of sugar and the juice of 1
lemon and then strain), sage has been
administered, taken internally, to
24 TASTE | November - December 2009
Tricoloured Sage
Golden Sage
both calm and stimulate the nervous
system. Research published in the
June 2003 issue of Pharmacological
Biochemical Behavior confirms what
herbalists have long known: sage, due
to the cholinesterase it contains, is an
outstanding memory enhancer. In a
trial of 42 patients, sage extract was
compared to placebo in patients with
mild to moderate Alzheimer’s, and
found that the cognitive function of
those taking the sage was significantly
better at three months. For culinary
use sage, being highly aromatic, is
best used fresh, when its flavor can be
described as a mix of rosemary, pine
and mint. Because of its strong flavor,
it can overwhelm, so should be used
sparingly. Unlike the more delicate
herbs, it can be added at the beginning
of cooking and pairs nicely with
other strongly flavored herbs, such as
rosemary, thyme, savory, and oregano
as well as the lemon herbs. As I was
mentioning at the beginning sage is
a must in the preparation of poultry
stuffings, most notably the big bird,
Sage Flowers
Purple Sage
the turkey. However, in European and
Mediterranean cuisines, it has many
more uses. Burro e salvia is a method
of frying sage leaves in a mixture of
olive oil and butter, until they are
crispy, invented by the Romans,
and still used in Italian cuisine as a
condiment gnocchi and pumpkin
ravioli. It blends well with mild
cheeses. Try a little sage on a grilled
cheese sandwich made with fontina
cheese and dark bread. Marinate goat
cheese with olive oil, peppercorns,
garlic, and some small sage leaves.
Or add one-quarter cup minced
sage leaves to an 8-ounce package of
cream cheese and let sit for at least
an hour before spreading on bagel
chips. It is the herb of choice in the
preparation of liver pate, mitigating
its rich flavour, thus giving the dish
a subtle sublime finish. Try covering
a pork roast with sage leaves before
roasting; or gently separate with your
hands the skin from the breast meat
of a chicken or turkey, rub a little
butter on the meat, then place a small
sprig or two of sage under the skin
on each breast, pat down the skin,
then roast. Sage leaves can be washed
and patted dry, dipped into a batter
made with egg yolks, flour and a little
of culinary sage are edible, as well as
beautiful, and have a more delicate
flavor than the leaves.
At Raw Nature we have 5 varieties
of Sage: Garden Sage (Salvia
variety and the most widely used.
Purple sage as mentioned before is
the preferred one by herbalists for
medicinal use. Mammoth Sage is ideal
for the Japanese tempura, as the leaves
bit of milk, and then fried in olive officinalis), Purple Sage (Salvia are bigger and thicker than the Garden
oil until they get crispy and golden, officinalis “Purpurea”), Tricolor Sage Sage. Golden and Tricolor Sage make
like Japanese Tempura. Sage honey (Salvia officinalis “Tricolor”), Golden striking garnish for their “painted”
(about one-third cup minced leaves Sage (Salvia officinalis “Aurea”) and appearance. Sage Edible Flowers are
warmed with three-quarters cup Mammoth Sage (Salvia officinalis really pretty as well as delicious and give
mild honey) is a wonderful addition “Berggarten”), as well as the Sage a striking finish when sprinkled on the
to tea or biscuits. Sage cider vinegar Edible Flowers. pasta dishes served with burro e salvia
makes great marinades. The flowers Garden Sage is the most common sauce or of crostini with liver pate.
Saltimbocca Alla Romana
INGREDIENTS • 10 large fresh sage leaves, chopped
• 4 thinly sliced veal cutlets (can use chicken or pork, as well) • 2 teaspoons salt
• 4 slices thinly sliced prosciutto ham (Parma ham) • 4 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
• 8 fresh sage leaves, plus more for garnish All-purpose flour, for • 2 loaves stale white bread (about 36 slices), crust on, cut into 1-inch
dredging
cubes
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper • 2 bunches fresh flat-leaf parsley, coarsely chopped (about 3 cups)
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil • 2 large eggs, lightly beaten
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter • 2 cups chicken broth or stock, cooled
• 2 tablespoons dry white wine
• 4 cups homemade turkey giblet stock (use chicken stock if Turkey
• 1/4 cup chicken broth Giblet stock not available)
• Lemon wedges, for serving
DIRECTIONS
DIRECTIONS
Make turkey giblet stock Melt butter in a large skillet. Add onions
Put the veal cutlets side by side on a sheet of plastic wrap. Lay
and celery and cook over medium heat until onions are translucent,
a piece of prosciutto on top of each piece of veal and cover with
another piece of plastic. Gently flatten the cutlets with a rolling pin about 10 minutes. Add sage, salt, and pepper. Stir to combine, and
or meat mallet, until the pieces are about 1/4-inch thick and the cook 3 to 4 minutes. Add 1/2 cup chicken broth and stir well. Cook
prosciutto has adhered to the veal. Remove the plastic wrap and lay a for about 5 minutes, reducing to half. Transfer onion mixture to a
couple of sage leaves in the center of each cutlet. Weave a toothpick large mixing bowl. Add bread cubes, parsley, and eggs. Pour remaining
in and out of the veal to secure the prosciutto and sage. Put some stock and broth over mixture. Mix to combine. Bake stuffing in a
flour in a shallow platter and season with a fair amount of salt and buttered pan at 375F until brown. Drizzle with turkey drippings
pepper; mix with a fork to combine. using a turkey baster during the cooking.
Dredge the veal in the seasoned flour, shaking off the excess.
Heat the oil and 1 tablespoon of the butter and in a large skillet over CRANBERRY SAGE SAUCE (makes 2 1/4 cups)
medium flame. Put the veal in the pan, prosciutto-side down first. INGREDIENTS
Cook for 3 minutes to crisp it up and then flip the veal over and sauté • 1 cup (200 g) sugar
the other side for 2 minutes, until golden. Transfer the saltimbocca to • 1 cup (250 mL) water
a serving platter, remove the toothpicks, and keep warm. • 4 cups (1 12-oz package) fresh or frozen cranberries tops of 9 stalks
Add the wine to the pan, stirring to bring up all the delicious of fresh sage,
flavor in the bottom; let the wine cook down for a minute to burn off • orange peel
some of the alcohol. Add the chicken broth and remaining tablespoon
of butter, swirl the pan around. Season with salt and pepper. Pour DIRECTIONS
the sauce over the saltimbocca, garnish with sage leaves and lemon
Wash and pick over cranberries. In a saucepan bring to a boil water
wedges; serve immediately. and sugar, stirring to dissolve sugar. Add cranberries and sage, return
to a boil. Reduce heat, simmer for 10 minutes or until cranberries
TURKEY STUFFING
burst. At this point add a few strips of orange peel.
INGREDIENTS
Remove from heat. Cool completely at room temperature, remove
• 2 sticks butter
sage stalks and then chill in refrigerator.
• 4 onions (2 pounds), cut into 1/4-inch dice
Cranberry Sage sauce will thicken as it cools.
• 16 celery stalks, cut into 1/4-inch dice
 wine
tails
By Katrina Valkenburg
I’m going to start this article with
a confession: I’m a wine snob. It all
began when I was lucky (or unlucky)
enough to meet and fall in love with
a wine journalist some 25 years ago.
He taught me about all things vinous
and from that moment to this day, I
have drunk my way around the wine
world, speaking both literally and
metaphorically.
Before moving to Bali, I was used
to receiving upward of ten wine
samples each week. Some were, of
course, outstanding examples of their
ilk, others were more run-of-the-mill
and it is these I’m going to discuss in
high-wine-priced Bali.
Although I would suggest that
there are few rotten wines put into
26 TASTE | November - December 2009
bottles, there are a number that I’d
pass up on if it weren’t for the fact
that there’s often not much choice.
What to do with a pretty ordinary
wine if you’re used to drinking well
(beyond one’s means in my case) –
and I’m not talking about wine that
is oxidised by being left out of the
fridge for days on end?
The answer may lie in the new
trend for winetails – cocktails made
using wine as the base. This word,
coined by the makers of Yellow Tail
in Australia, has taken a hold in the
cocktail crazed United States and will
no doubt become a well-used term
globally within nano-seconds.
The Spanish have long been
turning simple wines into something
plus cocktail recipes that Yellow Tail
recently emailed to me.
We just had to try them.
AUTUMN PEAR
1 serving
Ingredients:
STORMY WEATHER 1 serving
Ingredients:
• Ice
Unfortunately, Yellow Tail wines and • Ice • 1 1/2 ounces dark or aged rum
a couple of the more exotic liquors • 1 1/2 ounces riesling, such as • 1 1/2 ounces shiraz or cabernet
weren’t available for our experiments Yellow Tail shiraz blend
so we substituted them with a couple • 1 ounce pear brandy or pear eau de • 1/2 ounce freshly squeezed lime
of well-priced wines courtesy of vie juice
IndoWines and had fabulous barmen • 1/4 ounce amaretto • 1/4 ounce tequila
Gopha at Nutmegs whiz them up. • 1/2 ounce freshly squeezed lemon • 1 dash Angostura bitters (optional)
The results were mixed, perhaps juice • Ginger beer
in part because we had to substitute a • 1 teaspoon simple syrup Directions:
couple of ingredients but of the five we • 1 pear slice, for garnish Fill a cocktail shaker halfway with
tried, three were excellent, including the Directions: ice. Add the rum, shiraz or cabernet
two above. This exercise woke me up to Fill a cocktail shaker halfway with shiraz blend, lime juice, tequila and
the endless possibilities of wine-based ice. bitters, if desired. Shake well, then
cocktails. Even if you have only the Add the riesling, pear brandy or pear strain into an ice-filled highball glass.
rudimentary ingredients of a cocktail eau de vie, amaretto, lemon juice and Top off with ginger beer.
bar, with a little imagination you’ll be simple syrup. Shake well, then strain
Katrina Valkenburg is a wine educator
whizzing up impressive winetails to into a chilled cocktail (martini) glass. consultant & writer.
titillate your taste buds in no time. Garnish with the pear slice. Email: katrinav@mac.com
far more palatable, Sangria, as
have many other European nations
who began making mulled wine
as an answer to storage and quality
problems.
tasting notes
Yellow Tail is the largest imported Leyda Neblina Single Vineyard predominantly Syrah (Shiraz) with a hint of Cabernet
brand into the United States Riesling 2008 Sauvignon and Petit Verdot to round out the palate.
(approximately 10 million bottles This extremely well made Chilean Riesling is a real
annually) and its reach is globally surprise with fresh and tangy fruit flavours balanced Tabali Cabernet Sauvignon
by a gentle sweetness and firm acidity. With so few Reserve 2005
humungous due in part to its fruity
Rieslings available currently, this wine should be a Very deep ruby red in colour and showing all the
appeal to the virgin palate and its classic aromas, this Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon is
must on all good wine lists.
value for money. a real find. Ripe fruit with hints of eucalypt, mint
Yellow Tail employed the services Viña Von Siebenthal Carabantes and blackberries it has good body and length and a
of a mixologist named Trudy Thomas, Syrah 2006 velvety smooth mouthfeel. Again, best matched with
beverage director for the Camelback Deep red in colour with aromas of all the red berries, rich red meat dishes.
Inn in Scottsdale, Arizona who liquorice, white pepper and mint, this hearty red wine contact: Anom Adnyana
began developing cocktails using will stand up to the meatiest of dishes. Named after anom@indowines.net
the company’s wines. She then put the Spanish priest who first brought vines to Chile, it is PT Indowine 0361 8477232
together a little book comprising 40-
November - December 2009 | TASTE 27
 café couture
Local Inspirations
Bali has too many restaurants to even count, and that’s not including the ones
which come and go before anyone has even really noticed. But now that western
imported products are getting harder to find and more expensive to ‘source’, maybe
we should all think about the good local alternatives to western food.
In Sleepy Sanur (which is actually
not snoring that much anymore) try
LA PAU on the By Pass….not too
far from Natrabu where it started its
life in the parking lot on Fridays and
Saturdays from 10 pm ON. Now
located in its own leafy garden, LA
PAU specializes in home cooked food
from Minangkabau or West Sumatra.
Metrus, (who claims his name is from
menderita terus or suffer constantly?),
learned to cook from his mom, one of
the long term cooks at another Padang
restaurant. Metrus serves a selection
of traditional Padang dishes and of
course has rendang and sambal hijau
but lots of other things as well. New
items are vegetarian Rendang Nangka
(breadfruit) and Buntut Asem Pedes
(hot and sour oxtail). Monday nights
there is (usually!) great music from
the Tropical Transit band who have
been entertaining expats for years and
Fridays features a blues band. Lots
of beer on music nights!! Closed on
Sundays. Mon-Sat 10 am-11 pm.
Over in Renon, to sample
quintessential Sundanese food, try
Ikan Bakar Cianjur. It is an assault
on the senses with some of the worst
acoustics in town, but also some
of the best fish. They have a large
selection of deep fried or grilled
fish, several really nice veggie greens
including something like ferns and a
fabulous tahu in a sauce that is truly
scrumptious. That’s the good bit. The
bad bit is the noise and the fact that
there is not a non smoking area. So,
28 TASTE | November - December 2009
go early and sit where you can’t see
any smokers. Service is fast and prices
are very reasonable.
In downtown Denpasar, there is a
hideaway restaurant next to the old
Samudra called AYAM RICA RICA
and they also have a branch on the
road from Iman Bonjol that goes to
Kerobokan. There is a selection of
great hot pots, the food that finishes
cooking at your table… beef, seafood,
veggie only with lots of chili and
kangkung. Their soups are nice and
the sambal mangga to die for. And of
course, ayam rica rica from Menado
and lots of choice in grilled fish.
Service is generally ok unless
you go in when it’s full, and then
its better to choose another night.
Prices very reasonable.
On the Hero side of that street near
Ayam Rica Rica is MIE BANDUNG,
one of the small kiosk places lining
that road. This place has really tasty
Mie Ayam with no extra seasoning
necessary. They also have a vegetarian
MIE HIJAU which is nice. Noodles
and tea for 2 comes to about Rp.
40,000. Of course you have to be up
for street side eating, but some of us
look forward to a meal at a place like
this….a nice Sunday lunch place.
Checking out the local cafes is
a culinary adventure that provides
inspiration and an introduction local
ingredients you may not know of, but
which can add new elements to many
of the Western dishes we cook.
Looking to the local food on street
level can be illuminating and in
our increasingly global community
influences are crossing more than the
street, they are crossing oceans.
Clever cooks and fascinated foodies
are discovering there is more to
Indonesian cusisine than nasi goreng.
Hatten Wines
Bali’s Own
Fifteen years ago, consumers were somewhat mystified by the launch of a Balinese
wine company, fifteen years later the wisdom of such a venture has been dignified by
unrivalled support and international recognition.
Hatten was born of a small family-
run company producing Brem, the
local rice wine. The Owner/Director
of Hatten, I B Rai, an agricultural
engineer, had the idea of harvesting
grapes, in the north/east area of Bali.
The 14.5 hectare vineyard has been
successfully farmed ever since and the
company buys grapes from other local
farmers in the area, turning this into a
thriving area for grape production.
The hiring of award winning wine
maker Don Buchanan, formerly
associated with prestigious Australian
labels such as Lindeman, Krondorf,
Arrowfield, and former Australian
Winemaker of The Year, has been a
significant shift for the wine company.
“When I came in they asked me to
completely overhaul the winery but
not to change the wine at all, they
were happy with it,” Don explains,
“so of course, I changed everything,”
he laughs.
The fruit is what determines the
wine and there are slight variations
with each crop. Don’s greatest
contribution to the wine itself has
been to fine-tune the balance.
“In the tropics growing grapes and
creating wine is quite specialised. We
have to put the vines to sleep after
I.B. Rai with the original oak
barrels used for wine production
we harvest otherwise there will be no
down time and they need it to recover.
So here we artificially create the ideal
conditions,” says Don who has made
enormous changes to the winery since
he has arrived.
Physically the way the wine is stored,
fermented, filtered and bottled has
been the greatest area of innovation.
Hatten’s winery now boasts some of
the most up to date equipment in the
world and the company is planning
further innovations including an
increasingly ‘green’ future.
“The wine we create is in a new
category known as Tropical World
wine. It is a newly recognised style of
winemaking and our Alexandria wine
has won several international awards
in this category. Despite our small
size we are now recognised as one
of the world leaders in this category,
which includes places like Vietnam
and Argentina,” explains Don.
He is committed to the quality and
varieties of wine produced by Hatten
and claims that their biggest seller,
Hatten Rose, is perfectly suited to
Bali. “It is light and refreshing with a
relatively low alcohol content. Perfect
for sipping with grilled fish while
watching the sun set over the beach
in Jimbaran.”
He believes that the sparkling will
be their fastest growing wine as this
is a world trend and he believes both
the Tunjung and the Jepun sparkling
are excellent value and good wines in
themselves.
Value has been the greatest
advantage Hatten has had in the past,
however with the company’s new
look labels they are heading into the
future with the assurance that Hatten
can also deliver a quality wine and
the customers are responding with a
resounding yes!
THE CELLARDOOR
Komplex Dewa Ruci #3
Jl. By-pass Ngurah Rai, (Simpang Siur),
Kuta, Bali
Tel: 0361-767-422 Fax: 0361-768-418
www.hattenwines.com
info@hattenwines.com
November - December 2009 | TASTE 29
 Exotic cocktails 2 1
on the rocks
on the
When it came to creating the
ROCKS
menu for the resort’s spectacularly
located Rock bar, Marc stepped
up to the bar and created a drinks
list to, ‘match the moments of the
sunset’ which is a huge drawcard for
He may have hung up his chef ’s jacket but the cliff-face bar.
Ayana Resort’s Food and Beverage Director With his own Michelin star,
Marc Dobell is still a cook at heart. an illustrious career and his years
in Cannes creating some of the
world’s most extravagant parties,
this is a man who knows how to
turn up the volume.
“When I first arrived here in
April 2009 the owner told me they
1. Another day at the office
2. & 3. Rock bar bites
would open a new bar on the cliff to
open in July. I thought, that can’t be
true! In May and June I still did not
believe it and then one day, it was
there,” he laughs.
The stunning new Rock Bar was
designed by Yasuhiro Koichi of
Japan’s Design Studio SPIN, whose
works include NOBU Tokyo and
NOBU Hong Kong, a virtual
cliff hanger with extensive glass
bars and hideaway terraces. The
sophisticated bar menu has also
been tailored for the venue with
bites that sing of the location.
Fast becoming one of the must
see places to visit, DJ and live
performances are regularly featured
and New Year’s Eve is expected to be
a huge night at the Resort.
“My idea for the cocktails was to
play on the classics, the location and
the sunset, the most spectacular time
to be here. I bought in the martini
club menu for a little sophistication
and created a range of cocktails
that are fresh and fruity,” he says
of the large size cocktails that sit in
fishbowls to great effect.
So this creative F&B Director
together with his staff, who he
describes as among the best he has
met in his extensive career, refined
the Rock Bar concept which has
proved a winning addition to
Ayana Resort.
Dava’s wine dinner on Nov 6
introduces new chef William.
Another rocktail anyone?
November - December 2009 | TASTE 31
 chef’s xmas
Culinary
Christmas
Taste asked some of our leading chefs and contributors what
they would like for Christmas. While there were a few surprises,
most of them wanted something extra in their kitchens. For our
part, the staff at Taste would like some time off, to get ready to
bring you a bigger, better magazine in 2010. We hope all your
wishes come true!
Chris Salans (Mozaic):
Professionally for Christmas I wish
Santa would send me a blast freezer/
chiller. They are very difficult to get
and cost a fortune. But if I had one I
could also do miracles with it!
Personally I wouldn’t mind a set of
synthetic wicker furniture to put on
my porch and around our pool. It
would allow me to invite more people
over to our house!!!
Christian Hinckley (Amandari):
Thanks for the note. Tough questions.
Here is what I want.
1. Personally I would love to receive
1 pack of sour patch kids (American
candy), 1 bottle of Red Hook IPA
(American beer) and dinner and
lodgings at Michel Bras in Laguiole,
France.
32 TASTE | November - December 2009
2. Professionally I am hoping for a
thermo immersion circulator. To
better help with sous vide cooking.
Penny Williams (Alila Manggis):
Christmas, Christmas Christmas....
I wish that Farther Christmas would
drop down my kitchen exhaust a
handsome, muscle rippling thinly
clad gentleman, that can whip up all
my favorite dishes, keep the fridge
stocked with veuve Cliequot and
desires to obey my every command.
Professionally I would love a set of
Japanese knives. Very sexy!
Andrew Skinner (Bulgari):
This Christmas I would like an
envelope “with a little bit like a get
out of jail for free card - but a get out
of work card including 1 week full
global chefs
Bali Wins
“Our chefs have a great chance
of winning this event and the more
Christmas dessert by Vincent Stopin at St Regis. Photo by Dewandra
support we can gather for them,
Global Chef Asia Crown
the greater their chances are. The
competition is one of the most
prestigious international events in the
culinary industry and will require
In one of the most triumphant
discipline, practice and culinary
moments in Bali’s culinary history,
skill,” explains Andrew Skinner.
two of Bali’s chefs astounded the
Preparation for the event is vital
Asian community by taking the
to ensure that the team is confident
crown for Asia’s Global Chef.
in their bid. It is an intense level of
The win lines them up to
competition with the eyes of the
compete against the world’s best
world on the chefs who have come
in the internationally renowned
to compete in this highest level of
Global Chef competition in
international competition.
Santiago, Chile in January 2010.
Chef I Wayan Wicaya is
Balinese chef Mr I Wayan
Executive Sous Chef at Bulgari
Wicaya and apprentice Alexander
Bali Resort with many years of
Tanuhardja, both of Bulgari Bali
experience behind him. He is a
Resort, took the honours earlier
talented and creative chef who has
this year at the World Association expertise to the team for the upcoming
board, sleep in pass and unlimited of Chefs Society (WACS) Global challenge and will travel to Bali in
been in the industry for over twenty
relaxing on a Balinese sandy beach years explains Andrew Skinner.
with my 2 girls and wife.
Chef Asia competition held in Hong the coming months. Those who
His commie, Alexander Tanuhardja is
Kong earlier this year. have been asked are ranked as high-
For people who have never played
“This win is very prestigious for level competition judges who have
the first student to receive a sponsorship
Monopoly I am sorry I cannot help if from BCP as part of the Young Chefs
you don’t get it !!. Indonesia,” explains BCP President achieved culinary accolades including
program. Since his graduation he has
Made Putra. WACS Asia Director, John Sloane of
Preparing for Chile will involve Resort World, Singapore.
secured employment at Bulgari Bali
Professionally I want 2 new shiny
Resort and is currently president of the
Paco Jet machines............ these little many hours of practice once the key Currently BCP is finalising its
Young Chefs Club in Bali.
babies are the ultimate in delivering ingredients are announced. The event sponsors as the challenge is a costly
the lightest, silkiest and smoothest ice will be held in conjunction with the one to stage and the team relies on
creams and sorbets ever!!! For media and sponsorship enquiries
WACS World Congress, an event corporate sponsorship. Throughout
contact Natalie at
that brings together the top industry Indonesia many companies have
Philip Mimbimi (Huu): c.o. Travel Works Communications
professionals and press from around expressed interest in supporting the International
A. For myself, I’d like some new plants
the world. high-profile event, which will bring Jl. Kesari no. 60A
in my garden at home (and time to
A number of foreign-based chefs international attention to Indonesia Tel 0361.284095, Fax 0361.270189
plant them?) E-mail : info@travelworks-bali.com
B. At work I’m dreaming of a wood have been asked to contribute their and to Bali.
fired grill with ample amounts of
mesquite, and apple wood!
Raul Deschu (Padma):
Profesionally I’m after a supplier that
has anything on stock at any time,
and lower import taxes!!
Personally, this will come as no
surprise to many chefs, I’d like more
time with my family.
Happy Cooking!
Katrina Valkenburg our wine writer,
isn’t asking for too much, “easy - a
RoboJet!”

Wendy (Kevala) & Phillip (Hu’u)
Slow Roasted Pork Loin
Ray (Samaya) & guest
Boys at lunch
Yannic (Mannekepis) & Enrico (Oberoi)
Ayu and Elly (Unilever)
Girls at lunch
John and Raul (host chefs from Padma)
Claire (Villa Coco), guest, and
Penny (Alila Manggis)
Best of British
at Padma
Despite language difficulties (mainly
the accents) John Taylor and his newly
appointed Executive Sous Chef, Raul
Deschu, overcame cultural differences
to showcase what is fast becoming a hot
culinary trend, retro British food. John
and his talented offsider (aka sausage roll)
showcased their stylish whims with an
extended ploughman’s lunch buffet that
included tiny pork pies with quail eggs
that had everyone filling up their bags with
bungkus. EntrÈe involved a ravishingly
rich oxtail soup with a puff pastry top,
followed by slow roasted pork with all the
trad trimmings. With the guests feeling
pretty porky themselves by now, dessert
was no less than golden syrup steamed
pudding. Try walking home after that!
Venue: Padma Hotel, Jl. Padma, legian.
Golden syrup sponge pudding
Markus Wayan Sudiana (The Bali Khama),
(The Westin) Hidayat (Megah Food Trading), and ICA guys
Warm Bedugul Strawberries
Fresh at Flying Fish
One of the increasing numbers of local
chefs who have moved into the top position,
Executive Chef Wayan Wenten pulled out
a string of fresh flourishes to entertain the
BCP members and guests at the September
lunch. A dazzling number of seafood
appetizers were passed around while guests
enjoyed the beachfront location. Cigarette
sized shrimp spring rolls, oyster shooters, a Chris and
dazzling arrangement of freshly made sushi Leony (Holiday Inn)
was just the start. Dragged away from the
Adrianto (BGI), Markus (Legian Beach), Oyster
glamorous deck guests were then served Bevan (BGI), Markus (The Westin)
with Tasmanian salmon dressed with fresh
Asian flavours followed by a generous
portion of the impressive local wagyu
fillet served with tempura prawns. Happy
endings are made of Flying Fish’ signature
dessert of warm Bedugul strawberries in a
syrupy vinegar sauce with toffee ice-cream
and a crisp shard of honeycomb. Way to
go Wayan!
Venue: O-CE-N at Outrigger, Double
Six beach, Legian.
Tasmanian Salmon
Hans (Taman Safari), Made Lugra (The
Assorted sushi Samaya), Wayan Wenten (the host chef)
BCP Membership 2009
NAME
Arry Afianto
David Smith
COMPANY
Alam boga
Alam boga
Hendra Noviar Amier Alam boga
Vynna Indra Alam boga
Penelope Williams Alila Hotel Manggis
Christian Hinckley Amandari
Olaf Aistleitner
Adrianto Mulia
Haryanto Mulia
Ni Wayan Santo Asih
Arena Sport Café
Aromaduta Rasa Prima, PT
Aromaduta Rasa Prima, PT
Aromaduta Rasa Prima, PT
Dienly Wong Asri Indonesia, PT
Simon Yap Asri Indonesia, PT
Winyoto Asri Indonesia, PT
Alexander Erich Aston Kuta
Attila Koermoeczi Ayodya resort
Adrianto Bahana Gourmet Indonesia
Pramudya Bevan Bahana Gourmet Indonesia
Daud L Pakpahan Bali Bird Park
Ketut Sukamara Bali Golf and Country Club
Endris Yuliawati Balivillas.com
Isabella Lin Balivillas.com
Peter Rieger Balivillas.com
Agus Wiryawan Banyan Tree
Torsten Schubert Banyan Tree Maldives
Sugihanto Sachid Bapak Bakery
Mouelhi Issam Best Western Premier
Franky Alexander Buana Agung Lestari
I Wayan Budiarsa Buana Agung Lestari
Nyoman Sudiarna Buana Agung Lestari
Andrew Skinner Bulgari
Heinz Von Holzen Bumbu Bali
Dennis Langlois Carrefour
Bayu Lagimin Classic Fine Foods
Dhany Parwanto Classic Fine Foods
I Gde Rastarama Classic Fine Foods
Kib Roby
AA Rai Gunawan
Dharma Teas
Discovery Kartika Plaza
I Nyoman Candra Discovery Kartika Plaza
I Nyoman Wirata Discovery Kartika Plaza
Iwan hari Cahyo Discovery Kartika Plaza
Made Sebastian Suanda Discovery Kartika Plaza
Ni Made Suwartini Discovery Kartika Plaza
Johan Meyers DP Kitchen
Terry Deweer DP Kitchen
Eko Putranto Ecolab
Ernst Jaeck Grand Hyatt Bali
Saptono Grand Hyatt Bali
Wayan Widiana Grand Hyatt Bali
Sang Ketut Jiwa Griya Santrian Hotel
Hugo Declerck HerBali
Anik Purwati Hocatsu Bali, PT
Ida Ayu Sutamaya Hocatsu Bali, PT
Mahesa Dentha Hocatsu Bali, PT
Leony Rossalia Hartono Holiday Inn
Jason Vito Suwantika Hu’u Bali
Philip Parfait Ekoto Mimbimi Hu’u Bali
Arie Sumartini Ikan Segar Bali
Bill Marinelli Ikan Segar Bali
Rositha Wardhani Ikan Segar Bali
I Nyoman Parwata Indoguna Bali
Sarita Sanowi Indoguna Bali
Thierry Brocard Indoguna Bali
Wendy Jane Thomas Kevala Ceramics
I Gusti Nyoman Jaya Kori Restaurant
Ralf Schmidt Kori Restaurant
Markus Reichl Legian Beach Hotel
Bruno Militia Live Shell
Ayu Suharyani Lotus Distribution
Bill Busch Lotus Distribution
young chefs
NAME
Henny Santoso
Jeff Matthews
COMPANY
Lotus Distribution
Mandara Spa What’s
on their
Yannic Van Meckeren Mannekepis Bistro
Jayadi Masuya Graha Trikencana, PT
Hidayat Megah Food Trading
Ketut Sumatra Melia Benoa
Christopher J Salans
I Made Sudana
Juergen Domani
Katarina Sari
Mozaic
Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
mind?
Stefan Mueller Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
Christian Gerart Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa Ever wonder how our next culinary generation thinks ? Just take a peek at their
Darren Lauder Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa
views on some culinary matters.
I Gusti Agung Alit Subawa Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa
I Ketut Mudana Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa
Ni Ayu Winarmi Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa Where do you think the hospitality industry in Indonesia is heading ?
Reto Victor Torriani Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa Indonesia has a rich culture, nature, and also signature food, that’s why
Wayan Wenten O-CE-N Outrigger Resort Indonesia has to be “One of the Countries you must visit before you die”.
John Taylor Padma Bali
- Alfan Musthafa -
Ketut Pong Atmajaya Padma Bali
Raul Deschu Padma Bali
Wayan Nurisa Padma Bali What are the new trends in the world of food and how can Indonesia
Ian Roberts Pamerindo incorporate this ?
Kadek Widiantara papa’s Café I think healthy food will be the biggest trend. In Indonesia people always
Carlos Vinas Barmona Pica Tapas
use fresh root herbs and spices and other fresh ingredients. So healthy food is
Dewi Rusmala Pica Tapas
Jimmy Julianto Pica Tapas already part of our culture. - Jatu Rizki Putra Anurantha -
Neeta Malhotra Queens tandoor
Ing Gerold Eichinger Raja Bamboo, CV You are seeing a rise in health issues. How do young chefs feel about this ?
Made Budiasa Pendit Sanur Beach Aerowisata As a young chef, I am aware of health issues. The Indonesian Young Chefs Club is
Sven Hollinger Satria Pangan Sejati
an active organization which considers these issues and the solutions. - Kris -
Denny Rahman Shalira Spa
Jean Philippe Petit Shalira Spa
Nyoman Puja Siap Bali
Rick Bolt Smart Energy
Enny Kudung
Mr Robert Jansen
Soejasch
Soejasch
Next BCP Lunch
Tutik Yantini Soejasch Venue : The Legian
I Made Manahara Sukanda Djaya, PT
Izwantini Sukanda Djaya, PT Address : Jl. Kayu Aya, Seminyak
Rusli C.J. Lokman Sukanda Djaya, PT Day/date : Saturday, 28th November 2009
Brandon Huisman The Bale Time : 12.30
I Wayan Sudiana The Bali Khama
Jacky Ames The Beach House
Nigel Ames The Beach House
Aprin Sukarno Putra The Laguna
I Made Linggi The Laguna
I Made Putra The Laguna
Ida Bagus Partama The Laguna
Nyoman Wijana The Laguna
Ridwan The Laguna
Dean Keddel The Samaya
I Gede Juastra The Samaya
I Made Lugra The Samaya
I Wayan Sudarsana The Samaya BCP Christmas Party
Michael Shaheen The Samaya Venue : Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
Ray Clark The Samaya
Markus Krickelberg The Westin Address : Jl. Raya Nusa Dua Selatan
Budhi Setiawan Tedja Tirta Sakti Mandiri Day/date : Saturday, 19th December 2009
Ni Made Kariani Tirta Sakti Mandiri
Shirkandi (lulu) Tirta Sakti Mandiri
Renaud Le Rasle Ubud Hanging Gardens
Ayu Arsanti Unilever Food Solutions
Elly Gultom Unilever Food Solutions
Puri Danandari Prodjo Unilever Food Solutions
Claire Quinn Villa Coco
Made Witha Witha Bakery
Helmut Walter Schafer
 chefs day-out
fwun
ith the
No matter what age you are it is
impossible to resist the attractions at
Bali Safari Park, undoubtedly a big
part of the attraction for groups who
are choosing to entertain their staff
and families at the Gianyar park.
Whether it is the animals, the rides,
the shows or the restaurants, the 40
hectare landscaped park has more on
offer than most people can enjoy in a
single day.
This is the third park in the family
run company, the other two are in
Java. With decades of experience with
caring for and breeding animals, the
park has a huge variety of animals and
carries a strong conservation message
as well.
The main show at the park is set
in a Sumatran village and highlights
the relationship between villagers and
the elephants as natural habitats are
increasingly threatened. The animals
38 TASTE | November - December 2009
ima l s
an
are wonderful performers and the
people aren’t bad either. It’s an
extravaganza more like you’d expect
to see in a US theme park and the
Bali Safari managers say it takes a
long time to stage one of these shows
and therefore change them once a
year or so.
For corporate outings it is
increasingly popular as the appeal of
the park is so wide. In addition to the
amazing collection of exotic animals
that are housed in beautiful park-like
surroundings and best viewed from
the air-conditioned safari buses, there
is also a fun park and a water park.
Food and Beverage is managed
by ex-Hyatt Executive Chef,
Mahadi who oversees a number of
themed restaurants and food outlets
throughout the park. These include
the Tsavo Lion Restaurant where the
lions are mere metres away behind
glass. Uma Restaurant is set up as a
food court with private and public
areas capable of catering to large
numbers and small groups.
Professional management and
devoted zoo keepers together with
all the latest methods of keeping
happy, healthy animals has resulted
in a park that is world class and
attracting numerous experts in zoo
management who have all given the
park the thumbs up.
This year some of BCP’s members
will escort a group of children from
a local orphanage as part of the
International Chefs Day, an outing
that promises to be as fulfilling and
educational as it is fun.
Bali Safari Park is located on Jl By-
Pass Prof Dr. Ida Bagus mantra,
Gianyar. PH: 950000.