Bixby

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Contents [hide]
1 Bixby product User/Support Community
2 FAQs / Troubleshooting / Why is that?
3 Forum
4 Bixby Product Statement and other Details
4.1 Specifications
4.2 Bixby Official Manufacturer's Statement
4.3 Model & Serial Numbers
4.4 Part Numbers
5 Motherboard
6 Electrical Components
7 Supplemental Performance Data (Unofficial)
8 Manuals and Guides
9 Thermal Images of the Bixby 115
10 User Videos
11 Air to Fuel Ratio
12 Exhaust Air and Intake Air Routing
13 Convection System - Moving Hot Air
14 Startup Mode
15 Normal Run Mode
16 Automatic Ash Dumping
17 Shutdown Mode
18 Error & Warning Codes
18.1 Light #1
18.2 Lights #1,2,3&7
18.3 Lights #1&7
18.4 Light #2
18.5 Lights #2&3
18.6 Lights #2&5
18.7 Light #2&7
18.8 Light #3
18.9 Lights #3 & 4 , or Lights #3 & 5
18.10 Light #4
18.11 Light #5
18.12 Light #6
18.13 Light #7
18.14 Light #7&1
18.15 Light #7&2
18.16 Light #7,1&2
18.17 Light #7&#1-3
18.18 Light #8
18.19 All lights flashing, up to your selected heat level
18.20 All 8 lights flashing
18.21 Other Codes

[edit]Bixby product User/Support Community http://www.bixbyenergy.com/stoves

[edit]FAQs / Troubleshooting / Why is that?

Bixby FAQs. Click here for wealth of info on running Bixby stoves

[edit]Forum
iburncorn Bixby forum <-- excellent reference and assistance - factory rep
moderated.

The best of the iburncorn forum: Over 30 pages compiled by Quark, packed with
troubleshooting and related information about the Bixby stove. This is a must-see.
http://www.scribd.com/doc/4601998/FAQ

[edit]Bixby Product Statement and other Details

Bixby scientists developed new MaxYield� technology (patent pending) that drives
air into the burn pot as a powerful vortex to increase oxygen supply and achieve
an amazing 99.7% combustion efficiency. The result: a reduction in fuel cost of up
to 70%.

The Bixby Biomass System now brings MaxYield� to the home. For superior biomass
technology and a better-engineered, better-built stove, count on the biomass
leader. Count on Bixby.

Maximum burn efficiency for lower fuel costs

Starts with just the push of a button
Easy heat output adjustment from 8,000 to 50,000 BTUs
Large fuel hopper holds almost two bushels for less filling
Reliable fuel-feeding system design prevents jams
Self-cleaning burn pot automatically removes ash
from Company web site

Factory 7 year limited warranty[edit]Specifications

Installation: Install in accordance with manufacturer's instructions

Heating Area: Heating area will vary depending upon floor plan, heat loss and
geographic location of home, stove venting configuration and climate

Shipping Weight: 350 lbs.

Electrical: 120 volt AC (all loads shown are combined) -Normal Operating Mode: 1.6
Amps -Ash Dump: 4.6 Amps -Ingition Mode: 8 Amps

Tested and Listed By: OMNI-Test Laboratories Inc.

Tested To: ASTM E 1509, ULC C1482

Dimensions: height: 33" width: 28" depth: 30"

Deluxe Trim Options: Nickel Plated or 24k Gold Plated (Doors & Vents)

Warranty: Click on thumbnail at right.

Having trouble with a US dealer not honouring the Bixby warranty stated or
implied? See Magnuson-Moss US Federal Act http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson-
Moss_Warranty_Act . See also http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?p=120758 .
[edit]Bixby Official Manufacturer's Statement
Bixby Energy Systems manufactures the Bixby Maxfire and Ugly Black Box (�UBB�)
heating stoves that qualify for a tax credit in the US under the American Recovery
and Reinvestment Act of 2009. A printout of the Bixby Official Manufacturer's
Statement at http://www.bixbyenergy.com/Certificate.pdf is required to facilitate
tax credits under this Act.

In Canada, Jammer advises that the purchase of a biomass stove such as the Bixby
qualifies for a Home Renovation tax rebate as announced in the January 2009
federal budget.

[edit]Model & Serial Numbers

Courtesy of Quark:

Model 100 S/N:<3000; Model 110 S/N:3000 to 3852; Model 115 S/N:3853 to 9674; UBB
S/N:2000 to (2999)

[edit]Part Numbers
Detailed list of part numbers for all model stoves, courtesy of Quark:
http://www.scribd.com/doc/13176940/Bixby-Service-Part-Kits

[edit]Motherboard
The Bixby MaxFire is a thoroughly computer controlled stove. The computer program
can be reprogrammed for future upgrades. Bixby regularly posts firmware upgrades
and Beta-test versions on the [Bixby Download Webpage]. In addition, almost all
the operating parameters of the stove are adjustable through Bixcheck software
which can also be downloaded free of charge from the Bixby website. The stove uses
a �Motherboard� / �Daughterboard� combination. The Motherboard controls all of the
stoves functions with exception for the igniters. The Igniters are controlled by
the Daughterboard (also called igniter board). Putting the Igniter circuitry on
the Daughterboard keeps the high amperage circuits off of the Motherboard and
allows the Motherboard to be protected by a small amperage fuse. Each Igniter is
also protected by its' own fuse. The Motherboard controls the stove in four
running modes. a) Start-up mode b) Normal running mode c) Ash Dump mode d)
Shutdown mode.

The approximate time breakdowns of the four operational modes are: a) Start-up
mode 17 Minutes b) Normal Run mode Indefinite c) Ash Dump mode 1 Minute d)
Shutdown mode 30 Minutes

Maxfire Model 100 - 115

Top half. Click to enlarge

Bottom half. Click to enlarge.
.

Motherboard Pinout (115/110): http://www.scribd.com/doc/3144205/115-110-Mother-

Board-Pin-Out

Supplementary Pinout for Motherboard J3 for computer cable.

Bixby procedure for replacing the Maxfire motherboard:

http://www.scribd.com/doc/7635914/Replacing-the-Main-Control-BoardMaxFire
Bixby procedure for replacing the daughter board:
http://www.scribd.com/doc/3349970/Replacing-the-Igniter-Board

UBB and Maxfire Model 120

UBBImage taken from Maxfire/UBB Service Manual at

http://www.scribd.com/doc/3155803/Bixby-MaxFire-and-UBB-Service-Manual. Click on
the image to enlarge it. See the Service Manual for additional details.

Bixby procedure for replacing the circuit board of the UBB:

http://www.scribd.com/doc/3349984/Replacing-the-Printed-Circuit-Board-UBB

Motherboard failed? This is rare. If yours failed, you could have an electrical
problem in your home. See BixbyFAQ#Miscellaneous_Problems .

[edit]Electrical Components

Mag sensorThe Motherboard uses 8 sensors to control the various stove functions:

1. A Magnetic Sensor below Feeder Wheel senses 4 magnets that are pressed into the
Feeder Wheel as the Feeder Wheel rotates. The stove will reposition the Feeder
Wheel so each hole will align in the correct position at the proper time. FAQs on
Bixby Feeder Wheel

2. The Exhaust Fan Tachometer gives the stove�s computer feedback as to the actual
speed of the fan. The sensor provides a modulated resistance signal in the order
of ~1000 Ohm as the fan turns. The signal drops whenever metal is in proximity to
the magnetic tip of the sensor. The signal is used to determine if the Exhaust Fan
is working correctly. The Exhaust Fan uses this input to run an exact speed. FAQs
on Bixby Exhaust Fan

3. The Ash Drawer Switch lets the stove know if the Ash Drawer is in the closed
position or not. If the Ash Drawer is not in the closed position, it will cause an
error (#5 light blinking) and the stove will not do an ash dump. Eventually fuel
will build up in the Burn Pot if the Ash Drawer is not replaced or closed
properly. After 20 minutes the stove will shut down to prevent a build up of
unburnt fuel.

4. The Door Switch tells the stove if the door is closed or open. If the door is
open, it will cause an error (#4 light blinking) and will shutdown in one minute.

5. The Exhaust Thermocouple is an unshielded Type K thermocouple wire used to

measure the relative temperature of the exhaust. The Thermocouple (TC) is also
used to adjust the Convection Fan speed. If the temperature of the exhaust is
getting too hot (losing efficiency), the Convection Fan will speed up to put more
heat into the room. The increase in the Convection Fan speed will aid in lowering
the exhaust temperature. If the exhaust temperature continues to rise to a
critical temperature, then the stove will move itself to a lower heat level
setting until the exhaust temperature has lowered. This action is called
Temperature Pullback. If the temperature still does not come down, then the stove
will shut down with a #3 light blinking. In addition to all this, the stove's
firmware continually monitors the recent history of changes in the flue TC
readings. It does this to detect faults such as onset of flue blockage. If it
detects such a blockage (through a sustained trend of continually decreasing TC
readings), the stove will shut down with a #2 and 3 light blinking. The later
versions of the firmware (as of ~version 2.6) also monitor the history of TC
readings to dynamically make corrections to the air/fuel ratio. It is called "lean
burn" correction, the parameters of which are user-controlled via BixCheck
software. Finally, the TC is also used by the stove's firmware to detect ignition
(i.e., a heat rise) during startup mode of operation.

FAQ on Bixby Exhaust Thermocouple

FAQs on Bixby Convection Fan

6. The Burn Drive Limit Switch gives indication to the stove's computer that the
paddles are in the run position and the ash dump worked correctly. The switch is
activated by a cam that is on the burn drive motor. FAQs on Troubleshooting Bixby
Ash Dumping

7. The Hopper Snap Disc

is another safety device that senses the temperature of the bottom side of the
Hopper. The #3 light will begin blinking if the Snap Disc has been activated and
the stove will shutdown. The Snap Disc will automatically reset as the stove
cools.

Bixby procedure for replacing the hopper snap disc:

http://www.scribd.com/doc/3349966/Replacing-the-Hopper-Snap-Disc-115

8. The Igniter Current Sensing Coil checks both igniters for current draw before
the stove starts up. If either of the igniters is bad, the stove will show an
error code. To test an igniter, unplug it and check with an ohmmeter. The
resistance of a good Igniter will be 22 to 28 ohms. FAQs on Bixby Igniters and Air
Pump

[edit]Supplemental Performance Data (Unofficial)

Table of feed consumption, ashdump rate, BTU output and default calibration
settings as a function of Bixby stove heat level setting operating under version
2.02 and 2.06 stove software. Click on thumbnail at left to enlarge. Warning: it
is approximately 300 kByte.

ref: http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=6308

[edit]Manuals and Guides

The following is just a sample of the manuals and guides available at Quark's
Corner's Documents at http://www.scribd.com/people/documents/1077507

Owners Manual (115): http://www.scribd.com/doc/7467935/Owner-Manual-115-2020866-

Rev

Owners Manual (110): http://www.scribd.com/doc/7467929/Owner-Manual1102014413E

Owners Manual (100): http://www.scribd.com/doc/7467925/Owner-Manual100200530-Rev-A

Owners Manual (UBB): http://www.scribd.com/doc/7467911/Onwer-ManualUBB2056754-Rev-

B
Service Manual (Maxfire and UBB): http://www.scribd.com/doc/3155803/Bixby-MaxFire-
and-UBB-Service-Manual

110 Troubleshooting & Adjustment Guide Portrait:

http://www.scribd.com/doc/3153009/110-Trouble-shooting-and-Adjusting-Guide-
Portrait

115 Troubleshooting & Adjustment Guide Portrait:

http://www.scribd.com/doc/3153035/115-Trouble-shooting-and-Adjusting-Guide-
Portrait

Bixby downloads (manuals and software): http://Bixbyenergy.com/downloads

[edit]Thermal Images of the Bixby 115

Click on the thumbnail at right to see a collection of thermal images of the Bixby
115 stove, captured by Aircooledboy using a thermal imaging camera worth over
$50,000; not a toy. The images show the front of the stove at different heat
levels. They also show the insides of the stove taken from both the left and right
sides. Also included are images of the outside pipe and cap. Note that the camera
"sees" radiating heat surfaces and not moving hot air. For this reason, the hot
air from the vents isn't represented in the images. Note also that the images were
apparently taken without the optional childproof safety screen provided by Bixby
to prevent burns from the window. Warning: the images are approximately 170 kbytes
in total, but they're well worth the download, even over a slow dialup connection.
To see these and more individual images in higher resolution and temperature
information (how about a 351 degF door handle???), see
http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?p=89728. Enjoy!

[edit]User Videos
Belenus' stove starting up: http://video.google.com/videoplay?
docid=2983895483554167048,

feeder wheel in action: http://video.msn.com/video.aspx?vid=70196bd3-8de8-49ff-

9b71-8dfc4cf81acb, and

during lean burn on heat level 1. Note the excessive rising and falling of the
flame as fuel in depleted before the next fuel drop. Click on link then click on
square to go full screen:
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/zlaEHcV9dL7f1YJvLjek-g?
authkey=Gv1sRgCKbb36n9s9uH4QE&feat=directlink

Scoops' stove, weekly cleaning: http://vimeo.com/2720094 (password= bixby)

Jawquin's stove, showing a good flame at Heat Level 4 burning a 50/50 mix of corn
and pellets: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GFSVLzRM-RA

Miscellaneous:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=arUEQ1q4sIk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZ8ZYLAkwOA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C5GhN51DFgk&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ad0YEGRYjxk

[edit]Air to Fuel Ratio

Maxfire trimpots
UBB trimpotsTwo trim pots are provided on the Maxfire to optimize the burn by
adjusting air/fuel ratio under varying external conditions. To gain access to the
Trim Pots for the 115, remove the left side panel (when facing the stove). The
Trim Pot on the right is the �Feed Rate Adjustment Knob.� The one on the left is
the �Exhaust Fan Adjustment Knob.� Trim Pots both have a range of plus or minus
30% from the preset rate which is built into the software. [ Guidance on Making
Trimpot Adjustments ]

Air/Fuel ratio adjustments in excess of 30% may be made using BixCheck software.
This software also allows customization of other parameters such as ashdumping
rate so that a wide range of solid fuels can be accommodated.

Update: With version 2.71 stove firmware, it is possible to use BixCheck software
to optionally give the MaxFire ashdump control by trimpot, as with the UBB. In
this mode, the Exhaust Fan trim pot will control the Lean/Rich ratio while the
freed up fuel trim pot will control the ash dump rate.

[edit]Exhaust Air and Intake Air Routing

The combustion air enters the stove through the outer pipe on the Bixby direct
vent piping directly into the Converter Box. The direct vent pipe is actually a
pipe within a pipe, the outer pipe is 5 inches in diameter and the inner pipe is 3
inches in diameter. The Converter Box keeps fresh combustion air separate from the
combustion exhaust allowing the Bixby stove to use a direct vent piping system.
This box diverts the fresh combustion air to the 3� intake hose that routes into
the Ash Drawer compartment. Here the combustion air is then routed to the air wash
channel, up through the 109 holes in the Lower Paddle and into the chamber created
between the Upper Burn Plate and the Lower Burn Plate. The air in this chamber is
pulled in though the Upper Burn Pot vortex holes aiding the combustion process.

The fresh combustion air in the Burn Pot is used in the combustion process and
becomes exhaust. The exhaust rises to the top of the Firebox, past the convection
plates and tubes and then into the Exhaust Tube in the back of the Firebox. Thus,
the convection plates cause the exhaust to travel up and over the length of the
tubes then down the other side. This increases exposure of the hot exhaust to the
tubes which helps to increase the efficiency of heat transfer.

The heat absorbed by the Convection Tubes is what heats the room air. The top rear
of the Fire Box is open to the Heat Exchanger. Hot air, which rises, is pulled
down into the Heat Exchanger towards the Exhaust Tube. This action allows the flow
of the heated air time to provide excellent transfer of heat to the Convection
Tubes.

The exhaust is pulled through the Exhaust Tube by the Exhaust Fan. The Exhaust Fan
blows the exhaust into the Converter Box where it goes into the inner 3� pipe of
the direct vent system. The natural draw from the hot exhaust air exiting the
stove and the Exhaust Fan are what drives the air movement. The combustion air is
drawn in by the Exhaust Fan pulling out the exhaust. This can be accomplished
because the MaxFire is a completely sealed system. If air is pushed out of the
stove, then it must come in through the intake pipe since the rest of the system
is sealed. FAQs on gaskets for Bixby stoves

The Bixby stove is thus a negative pressure stove which is safer, by design, to
operate than a positive pressure device. As explained by Tallcorn
( http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=8190 ): If the exhaust pipe or
exhaust chambers plug up or the door glass or latch fails, combustion air stops
flowing through the fire pot and the fire goes out. Positive pressure stoves blow
combustion air into the burn pot. Exhaust passes through and leaves the stove
pushed by the combustion fan and natural draft. A blocked exhaust or stove or door
glass and door failure doesn't stop the positive pressure blowing air into the
burn pot, keeping the fire going and exhaust goes out of the stove where it can.

[edit]Convection System - Moving Hot Air

The convection air system transfers the heat from the stove, into the room. Room
air is brought in through a Standard sized 16x16x1 Disposable Fiberglass Air
Filter on the back of the stove. The 275 CFM convection fan blows filtered air up
through the aluminized Convection Tubes, which are heated by the exhaust gas. The
air which exits from the upper louvers is heated as it passes through the
Convection tubes. The small amount of heated air that exits from the lower louvers
is air that has passed through the Convection Tubes and past the sides of the Fire
Box.

Convection fan speed is governed by the reading of the exhaust thermocouple. The
default speed profile can be customized using BixCheck software .

Tip: You can use a longer disposable air filter if you wish. It need only be 16"
wide. If it is significantly longer than 16", then you can rotate it 180 degrees
(i.e., put the top half down) when the lower half gets dirty. This increases the
life of your filter.

[edit]Startup Mode
When the stove is plugged in, it goes through a P.O.S.T. checking all of the
devices on the stove. The LEDs will light 1 to 8, flash a code, light 8 to 1 and
flash a code.

Igniter & Airpump. Click to enlargeThe Bixby stove ignites itself when the ON
button is pressed, without use of starting aids.

While not easy to ignite, corn does burn well if the balance of fuel and air is
maintained properly. The Bixby MaxFire uses an Air Pump and two powerful 500 watt
Igniters to ensure a fail safe ignition every time. The Air Pump is a dual
diaphragm Oilless Linear Pump that feeds an equal amount of air to each Igniter.
The Igniters use a 2500 degree F carbon coil to heat the air coming from the air
pump to 1400 degrees F. This amount of heat results in the corn reaching its
�flash point� within two to three minutes and igniting. There is no need for any
starting aids other than the tip of the user�s finger pushing the �ON� button.
FAQs on troubleshooting Bixby igniters and airpump

The Start-up mode runs for approximately 17 minutes from the time the �On� button
is pressed. The stove will first do a Diagnostic Test of its operation and test
all of the sensors. The stove will also run the ash dump mechanism 3 times and
move the feeder wheel to a position where there is a magnet over the feeder wheel
sensor. If there are any problems they will be displayed as blinking lights on the
control panel. These problems can be decoded from the chart in the Owner�s Manual
or from the chart on the Hopper door. We will look at these dialogistic codes
after we finish discussing all 4 running modes. After the Diagnostic Test, the
stove will start feeding corn into the Firepot, after a minute the air pump will
Start-up. 15 seconds after the air pump starts, then the stove will test both
igniters. After the test is done, then both igniters will be engaged. There should
be a flame in roughly 3� minutes from the point of starting the stove. If there is
no flame within 10 minutes, the stove will shutdown and try to restart. The stove
will try to restart 2 times before it flashes the #2 light (did not reach
operating temperature) and shuts down. When the stove lights normally, it will run
at pre-set levels for the first 17 minutes. At the end of Start-up mode it will be
on level 4, at which time, it will change to what ever level the user has set. The
purpose of the Start-up procedure is to get the stove up to operating temperature
and to stabilize the flame.

Note that the above timings and heat levels are default settings which can be
changed using BixCheck Software.

The stove may also be ignited manually using a starting aid. The [Bixby User
Manual] provides detailed instructions on how to do this. When starting manually,
FreshSqueeze suggests temporarily increasing the exhaust fan rate to help reduce
the possibility of blowback http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?p=112905 .

[edit]Normal Run Mode

During the normal running operation of the stove, the stove will run at the user
preset level. If a different heat setting is chosen, it will take three minutes
per level to ramp up or to the selected level. The two minute delay gives the
stove time to adapt to the new feed and Exhaust Fan rates. The feed rate and
Exhaust Fan settings are modified by the Trim Pots. The Trim Pots can make changes
plus or minus up to 30% in each direction. The stove will automatically do an ash
dump after a preset amount of feed cycles. The higher the heat level setting, the
shorter the time between ash dumps. Likewise, the lower the heat level setting,
the longer the time between ash dumps. FAQs on Autostarting and Use of External
Thermostat to Regulate Heat Level

[edit]Automatic Ash Dumping

How it worksThe Bixby stoves automatically clean the burnpot by dumping ash at
preset intervals governed by the count of feed wheel revolutions. The intervals
are user-adjustable on the Maxfire using BixCheck software so that the stove can
be configured to burn very low ash through to very high ash fuels. The UBB
provides a trimpot for adjusting the ash dumping rate. Click on the link below to
see a short video of the ash dumping process viewed from inside the ash drawer.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ad0YEGRYjxk

Update: With version 2.71 stove firmware, it is possible to use BixCheck software
to optionally give the MaxFire ashdump control by trimpot, as with the UBB. In
this mode, the Exhaust Fan trim pot will control the Lean/Rich ratio while the
freed up fuel trim pot will control the ash dump rate.

Burner assy
Additional ashdump infoSketch (at left) of 110/115/UBB Burner Assembly. In
reality, the upper burn plate of the 115 Maxfire is not quite as shown. It is
actually split into 2 pieces to make easier removal for routine cleaning. For
additional details on the ash dump process: http://www.scribd.com/doc/3168679/Ash-
Dump-Process

The model 100 uses a different dumping process. According to Howlinsounds

http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?p=125287: "It has a deeper lower pot and
when it is time to dump, the upper arm activates over top of the burn, fills with
"new" fuel, that new fuel ignites, the lower arm dumps, then closes, then the
upper arm opens and drops the new burn to the bottom plate." To this, Tomorokoshi
adds: "The Model 100 has two motors that run the plates separately. Burning
normally happens on the lower plate. When it gets to be ash dump time, the upper
plate moves over. This makes an "enclosed" area - although both plates have the
little holes in them. The burn in the enclosed area ignites the fuel that is now
dropping on the upper plate. Once the fire is going up there the lower plate drops
out everything, closes up again, and then the upper plate moves out of the way,
dropping the new fuel ignition down. This method actually has some interesting
properties, at the expense of efficiency. Some amount of unburned fuel gets into
the ash drawer. It does a cycle about every 45 minutes at level 8, and the
clinkers are about 3/16" thick."

FAQs on Troubleshooting Bixby Ash Dumping

[edit]Shutdown Mode
The Shutdown Mode is entered when the �Off� button is pressed or an error is found
by the mother board. The stove will stop feeding corn and will increase the
Exhaust Fan speed to keep all of the combustion exhaust going out the exhaust
pipe. The stove will run at this speed for 10 minutes to allow time for all of the
fuel to burn. After this 10 minute period, the Exhaust Fan will run at 50% and
Convection Fan will decrease in speed for 20 minutes more. At the end of this 30
minute period, the stove will do an Ash Dump and completely shutdown.

[edit]Error & Warning Codes

The 8 heat level indicator lights on the Bixby Room heater (e.g., model 115) are
also designed to act as potential problem indicators. Whenever one of these lights
begins to flash, consult the Bixby manual for reason and recommended solution.
Additional information is available below.

Table of the most common codes. See below for more codes and for details.

[edit]Light #1
Power failure during Room Heater operation: Push the �Off� button and then the
�On� button to restart.
[edit]Lights #1,2,3&7
From Tomorokoshi http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=5430: "When you get
the 1237 light combination, does the stove turn the air compressor on? The 1237
code is listed as an "internal fault", which is that the igniter current was
detected at a time when they are supposed to be off. The stove then assumes that
something went wrong with the igniter circuit and turns the air pump on. However,
if the stove is running for some time and then it happens, there might be
something else. Can you look into: 1) Is there a pattern to the shutdown problems?
How often they occur, etc. 2) What kind of electrical circuit is the stove plugged
into? 3) What operation is the stove doing when it happens?"
EtOH reported problems with random 1237 shutdowns
( http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=5430&start=28 ) with the compressor
remaining on after the shutdowns until the stove was powered off. The problem was
corrected with a new igniter board (http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?
p=92969) with thanks to Tomorokoshi at Bixby for prompt and accurate diagnosis.

[edit]Lights #1&7
See Lights #7&1, below.
[edit]Light #2
Operating temperature not reached: Push the �Off� button and then the �On� button
to restart. Verify fuel level in the hopper. According to Tomorokoshi
http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=10672, this error occurs when the
nominal flue thermocouple reading drops into the 50s or 60s, depending upon the
board temperature.
From JET http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?
t=5663&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0: "Was it just a small white plug in the
upper right hand corner? If so, that shouldn't snap into place. It doesn't connect
positively and can come off." (i.e., Ensure that flue thermocouple wire (white
plug, brownish wire) is plugged in place at the upper right of the board, it can
come off easily.)

[edit]Lights #2&3
Empty hopper or potential blocked flue warning. Check hopper for fuel. If fuel is
present, flue (exhaust) may be blocked. Clean the exhaust portion of the Room
Heater and the attached venting. See Maintenace and Cleaning Procedures for
details. If problem continues, contact your Bixby Dealer.
From Corny http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=5157 : "A failure with the
2&3 lights blinking usually indicates that you were running too lean if the flue
isn't blocked and the hopper isn't empty. Solution would be to turn up the feed
rate or back off the exhaust fan rate. If your pellets are very long, it could be
that the feed wheel pockets aren't filling completely and you aren't getting the
proper amount of fuel, hence too lean. If this is the case, smaller pellets would
help. If the 2&3 lights are blinking (with the new 2.06 or later firmware) but the
stove is still running, then that indicates that the stove is trying to compensate
for a too-lean condition by increasing the feedrate. Thus, there are fewer
shutdowns for this condition when running the new firmware. " A 2&3 shutdown can
also occur when running too rich as the flame is snuffed from an overfilling
burnpot. See Bixby Adjustment for details and advice on optimizing the setting of
the air and fuel trim pots.

If the exhaust fan speed was irregular before the 2&3 shutdown, you could have a
loose flue thermocouple connection at J18 on the top half of the motherboard, as
explained at http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=9976 . If the stove shut
itself down because of this, the Bixcheck Flue Monitor would likely show a sudden
zero thermocouple reading as the connection is broken at J18.

[edit]Lights #2&5
From Tomorokoshi http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=5312 :"Check the ash
drawer switch. Where does it close relative to the drawer position and the latch
closure? It might be on the edge. Usually this would lead to a #5 only, but if the
drawer is actually open, because the air flow changes a bit, it could lead to a
cold shutdown before the ash drawer timeout. Likewise, the exhaust fan speed is
increased a bit if the drawer is open, but if the drawer is actually not open,
then the fire could be blown out. Another possibility is if it shut down with a
regular #2, after which someone left the drawer out for around 20 minutes - it
would then capture that error as well."

[edit]Light #2&7
See Lights #7&2, below.

[edit]Light #3
Exhaust system or hopper area is overheating. Reduce the feedrate (see
troubleshooting section of Bixby manual). If problem persists, contact your Bixby
dealer.

From Tomorokoshi http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=5663: "The #3 light is

used to indicate an extreme overtemp. How this is done, however, can lead to a
misleading indication. The idea behind an overtemp is that too much fuel is being
loaded into the stove. Perhaps the feed motor is stuck on. This method to deal
with this is to have a thermal snap switch (aka. Hopper Snap Disc) in series with
the feed motor. If the temperature is reached, the switch open up, and power to
the motor is turned off. However, this is only half the process. Somehow the
computer need to know that the circuit opened up. To do this, there is a detection
circuit on the control board. It effectively measures if the feed motor is using
current when voltage is applied: if no current is used when it is expected to be
on, then the circuit is open, and the #3 overtemp shutdown process happens. Note
that there are now any number of things that could cause this: an actual overtemp,
a malfunctioning snap switch, the internal feed motor thermal cutout, a motor that
uses less power than expected, a system voltage reduction, a general wire
disconnect... or a fault in the detection circuit. If you look carefully on the
control board, behind the metal tab that holds the trim pots is the main
processor. It is the large chip on the board. To the right of it, just below the
metal crystal can, are four components. The third one down from the can is R36;
it's designation is upside-down relative to your view. That R36 resistor sets the
sensitivity of the detection circuit. It's original value was 100 K Ohms, which
has a color coding of Brown-Black-Yellow-Gold. After tracking down issues like
this, it was changed to 10 K, which has a color coding of Brown-Black-Orange-Gold.
When the change was made, boards with the 100 K resistor has a 12 K resistor
soldered on top which made the total resistance close to 10 K. If you do not have
the second resistor soldered on, look at the color bands. It can be difficult to
tell the difference between the colors. If you have an ohmmeter you can measure
the value if the stove is unplugged. If you determine that you have the 100 K
resistor, a board exchange will take care of the problem. You will also
automatically get the new software."

From JET http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=5663: "Another likely cause is

a bad thermal snap switch (aka. Hopper Snap Disc). This is located just to the
left and above the feeder wheel motor, behind the left side panel. There will be 2
small black wires with pink connectors on them. If you have an ohmmeter, then you
can check to see if the snap disk is open, it should be closed. If you don't have
one, then you can put a jumper on the brown wires that go to the snap disk and try
the stove again to see if it is fixed."

From http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?p=80082, Tomorokoshi reminds us that

"the convection fan shutting down (can) trigger this problem. A noticeable radiant
heat from the stove, unusual quietness, and unusual "hot" smell are all symptoms
of the convection fan shutting down. If it shuts down, then the hopper overtemp
switch can open up.". In the same thread, DLS mentions that a dirty air filter
could also cause an overheat shutdown. <Troubleshooting the convection fan>

[edit]Lights #3 & 4 , or Lights #3 & 5

From Tomorokoshi http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=5312: "A #3 light all
by itself means the stove was operating too hot and opened the snap switch on the
exhaust manifold. This cuts power to the feed motor. This is detected when the
feed motor is attempted to be run, which makes the error show up. However, there
is another way to detect the stove running too hot - via the thermocouple in the
exhaust. The test and safety specification the stove complies to limits how high
the exhaust gas can be. If the stove approaches this temperature, it will try to
do the high temperature pull back mode. If the stove is not able to pull back in
time, which is about 5 minutes, it will display the #3 and #5 lights. This was
done so I could answer exactly this kind of question - instead of chasing around a
#3, which is really hard to do. By the way, a #3, #4 is the same issue except
during startup mode. There are a few things you can do: 1) Is the stove in a warm
room? Ambient temperatures in the +80 F range can be trouble some. Use a fan to
get the heat out of the room. 2) Wait for cooler temperatures before going as high
as level 8. 3) Check the fuel fill of the burn pot - if it is high, the pullback
mode will not be able to do anything if there is a large charge of fuel. 4) Watch
the stove - there is only a short window to catch it. When it is in pullback mode
the LEDs should flash like they do if the thermostat is telling it to be cool. 5)
Attach a thermostat to keep the ambient temperature in the room a little cooler.
Once it gets cool outside, it should stop happening."

[edit]Light #4
Room Heater door is ajar (open). If the door is perceived to be open for more than
one minute, the Room Heater will shut down.

Switch1
Switch2
LatchMake sure the door is tightly closed. If necessary, adjust the door latch by
tightening the 2 doorlatch nuts (visible when the door is opened). If the door is
tight, then LET reminds us that "the door switch can also be adjusted. I've had to
adjust several from the factory with 'hair triggers'!"

There have been isolated reports of the #4 light going dim or out when it should
be on. Enerjet once corrected this problem by unplugging the stove for a few
minutes then plugging it back in. http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=8722

[Bixby guide for replacing and adjusting the door switch]

[Bixby guide for replacing and adjusting the door latch]

[edit]Light #5
Ash Drawer is ajar (open): Make sure the ash drawer is tightly closed. The Room
Heater will not start if the ash drawer is not closed. If the ash drawer is open
for more than 20 minutes, the Room Heater will shut down. Close ash drawer and
restart the Room Heater.

Mimadman http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=7254 suggests that a stuck ash

drawer switch would cause the #5 light to stay on. To free it, he says to spray
WD40 lubricant on the switch, then work the switch with one's finger until free.
[Bixby procedure for replacing the ash drawer switch]

From Blume98 on adjusting the switch http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?

t=7254: "Take ash pan out and look in. You will see the switch (at the back, left
of centre). It has a nut on each side. Loosen the nut you see, then back off the
nut behind ash dump motor a few turns, then tighten nut in ash pan compartment.
This will bring it out a little. The light should go out when you put drawer back
in."

[edit]Light #6
Exhaust fan failure. Contact your Bixby Dealer for service.
From Quark in the case of a #6 error when the exhaust fan still runs
http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?p=110078 : "..Then it is either in the
exhaust fan sensor or a mechanical failure. Since the exhaust fan sensor is
positioned between the exhaust fan and the motor that drives the fan, it doesn't
care if there is an unbalanced or dirty exhaust fan.

If one has Bixcheck software , connect to the stove, open the Monitor and look to
see if there is any reading at all. If there is a RPM reading but it does not
somewhat match the set RPM, the problem could be mechanical. The sensor is mounted
over the cooling fan on the motor shaft enclosed in the cage that connects the
exhaust fan and the motor. Check the cooling fan blade to make sure it turns wih
the shaft.
1) The fan hub set screw may have loosened. 2) The fan itself my have loosened on
the hub. 3) The fan may have shifted on the shaft. 4) The sensor itself may have
loosened and shifted. 5) The cooling fan blades themselfs, need to be inline with
each other. Not bent out of position.

The software expects to see 10 blades of the cooling fan for each revolution of
the motor. If one blade is moved out of the sensors range, it wiil not count that
blade thus the motor will run faster. A similiar condition can exist if the
cooling fan blade becomes loose on the shaft.

If the Bixcheck Monitor does not see a RPM but shows a set RPM, look a for loose
connection to the main control board, and if it is tight and in place, replace the
exhaust fan sensor.

In this situation, because the stove has been unplugged several times - do the
following. First replace the receptacle. Receptacles do wear out. A receptacle
should have some amount of friction as the plug goes in or out. A $5.00 receptacle
will last a lot longer and give a better contact between the receptacle and the
plug than a $0.50 one will.

One other thing to try mixed in with all of this - The voltage spike caused by the
plug being kicked out may have scrambled the program somewhat. There is a big
difference between a spike caused by normally unplugging something vs a rapid
unplugging. Try downloading the program again, it only takes a few minutes. Just a
suggestion."

In the same thread, Jammer mentioned that a bad exhaust fan bearing can cause
vibrations affecting sensor readings causing a #6 error.

[edit]Light #7
Firepot mechanical malfunction: Push the "off" button then the "on" button to
restart. If malfunction continues, allow burnpot to cool then clear the jam. See
Bixby FAQ section of this WIKI for tips on clearing jam.
http://forum.iburncorn.com/wiki/index.php/BixbyFAQ#Burn_Paddles_-
_How_to_Clear_a_Jam
From the Troubleshooting section of superceded BixCheck manual: The burn paddles
get stuck and a #7 error is produced � clinker looks normal except for perhaps
being too tall Explanation: The ash content adjustment of the fuel parameters
determines how often the ash dump is performed. With corn, the default factory
setting is 32 (Note: It's since defaulted to 14 on the 2.06 version software). If
this (32) were changed to 16, the stove would run for twice as long before
performing the ash dump . This would allow the clinker to become too big, and it
would jam the burn paddle mechanism. Remedy: Reduce the ash content of the
selected fuel. By judging the size of the clinker that jammed the mechanism,
adjust the ash content proportionally.

The burn paddles get stuck and a #7 error is produced � clinker is warped, folded,
has marbled appearance Explanation: The material in the clinker is soft and
somewhat sticky above some temperature. If the stove is operating such that the
clinker is too hot when the ash dump process occurs, then as the paddles move in
the clinker material, which initially is sticking to the paddles, gets moved and
folded over while at the same time the relatively cool paddle freezes the clinker
into a shape that may interfere with the paddle being able to fully extend and
retract. Remedy: At this time, run the stove cooler by reducing the exhaust fan
speed or by increasing the fuel amount. Reduce the Ash dump Fan setting for that
fuel by perhaps 20% to 30%.

Unexplained operation Explanation: This stove is rather more complex than what
would normally be expected for something that just burns stuff. However, when you
look at it, if you are used to burning wood, a typical wood fire in a fireplace
insert requires interaction every hour to keep things working well. There is a
fair amount of software and calibration information that need to be correct to
have the stove run well. With most stove operational issues, the first thing is to
connect up the monitor and see what the calibration information is at. Improper
calibration would primarily cause combustion problems. It is also going to be the
case that as time goes by, new software will become available for the stove that
may solve software problems as they are found. Remedy: Connect to the stove using
BixCheck. Verify the calibration. Consider updating the stove to newer software.

From Blume98 when no jam is apparent http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?

t=6606 : Try shutting off the stove then unplugging for a few minutes, then start
up again. If the problem repeats, check to see if the ash dump motor is running
when you hit the start button. If the motor runs and the arm doesn't move, then
the gear or shaft is broken. If that's not the problem, remove the arm from the
motor and see if you can turn the shaft. If it can turn readily, then the motor is
bad.

From LET in the above thread: "The switch that the arm on the motor hits to stop
it could be missadjusted, I have seen a couple of them come loose and move back.
The other thing is if the brake on the bottom of the motor is stuck off then the
motor will coast past that switch and give the error."

[edit]Light #7&1
Left igniter failed. Contact your Bixby Dealer for service. The Room Heater will
continue to operate, but will take longer to ignite from a cold start.
Note from Corny: Check the Left Igniter fuse and white connector on the sister
panel. See also the related #7&2 code.

According to Scoops http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=9976 , a 7&1 error

code can be cleared by an ashdump or by opening & closing the ash drawer.

[edit]Light #7&2
Right igniter failed. Contact your Bixby Dealer for service. The Room Heater will
continue to operate, but will take longer to ignite from a cold start.
Note from Corny: Check the Right Igniter fuse and white connector on the daughter
board.

Note (from LET) http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=5527 : The 2 & 7 lights

can be confusing sometimes, the indication that you really had is #7 (jammed dump
mech) and #2 low temp, because the lights flash together at the same rate it
looked like the igniter was out. To prevent another jam turn up your feed about
1/2 mark and try that if it still does it go up another 1/2 mark on the feed. When
the stove runs too lean then the cookie will be too hard and sometimes jambs the
mech.

Note from Oldschool http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=5335: "I shut the

stove down and killed the power. I checked the fuses they were OK. I also checked
all the wire connections, I did find a short black jumper wire on the igniter
board that seemed loose and when I pulled on the wire it came out of the terminal.
I crimped a new terminal on the wire and placed it back on the board. I started
the stove back up when the air pump started I pulled the tubing and the pump was
supplying air as it should. The igniters worked as they should and the stove
started great. No error light on. So maybe the 10 min power kill or fixing the
loose wire fixed the problem."

From Rona http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?p=101648: Switch the left and

right igniter wires on the daughter board. If you then get a #7 & 1 code, then you
can suspect the right igniter. If the code remains #7 & 2 as in Rona's case, you
know that your igniters are good and that you can suspect the daughter board
(EDIT: or some other cause. See the report from Bix user, below).
(

Bix user ( http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?p=104278 ) repaired a sporatic

#7 & #2 problem by adjusting his drive limit microswitch. He explained that random
inapropriate closings of the switch caused the cutter arm to engage and to stop at
inappriate times and places (#7 error) causing poor burns that failed to reach
temperature (#2 error).
t

Belenus suggests that the airpump and air tubes should be suspected when igniters
blow frequently on a stove http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=9326 . The
tubes might be pinched or partially blocked, or the pump might not be pumping
effectively. He says "Without an flow/pressure meter and pump specs, it ain't easy
(to test the pump). See how long it takes to inflate a basket ball, balloon, or
some such thing to a given diameter (perimeter), then compare it with a pump at
your dealers. For the tubes, you can blow through them by mouth to get a
judgement. If you feel equal resistance from both tubes, they are both likely to
be free of restrictions."
b

[edit]Light #7,1&2
Both igniters failed. See Manual Lighting instructions in the Bixby manual.
Note from Corny: Check the Igniter fuses and white connectors on the daughter
b
board.

[edit]Light #7&#1-3
Internal error - possible ignitor electrical fault - unplug Room Heater and
contact your Bixby Dealer for service. See Light 1,2,3&7
[edit]Light #8
Feeder wheel failure. Open hopper lid, remove feeder wheel cover, clear jam and
restart Room Heater. If this continues, contact your Bixby dealer for service.
[ Feeder wheel troubleshooting ]
From Tomorokoshi http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=5115 re. #8 light
during startup while the corn is feeding correctly: "In the previous software
(before 2.06), the system would shut down with a #8 light after 7 or 8 moves
without finding the magnet. You were therefore alerted after the failure of the
system. In 2.06, the light starts to blink after the magnet was missed for
something like 2 or 3 times. This gives you a 5 or 6 move time opportunity to
clear a jam manually before the system shuts down; it's very little warning, but
it can give you notice if the system is regularly shutting down with a #8 light.
The really bedeviling situations are when it shuts down with a #8 and there is
nothing there - it can happen when merely the act of removing the cover lets the
material fall away. .... All right, Rox, I forgot about the startup case, so you
can get the credit for that one. When the igniters are turned on and the current
is checked, there are a lot of other things happening and the part of that
involves various timers and status variables being reset. This leads to a false
indication at that time - it's nothing to worry about. "
i

From Enerjet in response to Darkharbour, whose feeder wheel consistently stopped

with a #8 code approx. 4 minutes after hitting the ON button
http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=8776 : "Did you look at the (feeder
wheel) sensor just as an observation, looseness, wiring. Did you check the 4 small
magnets that are pressed into the bottom of the feed wheel? I would clean the
holes with a toothpick and look. Possibly the press fit was loose and when you
cleaned the feed wheel one of the magnets may have fallen out. This would cause a
loss of feed wheel position 1 out of every 4th cycle. That may be the reason for
the delayed malfunction, as the system doesn't set the code on the first few
intermittent losses of feed wheel position."
i

[edit]All lights flashing, up to your selected heat level

Terminal block
Motherboard1) If your stove is connected to a thermostat, the flashing lights are
normal and they indicate that the thermostat is not calling for heat. 2) If your
stove is not connected to a thermostat and if the stove is not on heat level 8 in
overtemperature pullback mode (see All 8 lights flashing, below), there are two
things to look at according to Tomorokoshi:
http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=6189: "a) On the bracket for the
control board assembly there is a terminal block. Installed on the terminal block
is a metal jumper. Check the connections there. b) Coming off the terminal block
is a white wire that connects to J6 of the control board. Check the connection and
make sure it's plugged in."
m

See also Bixby#All_8_lights_flashing on over-temperature pullback.

S

[edit]All 8 lights flashing

1) If heat level is set to 8 and stove is running on a thermostat, then it could
be that the thermostat is not calling for heat and the stove is consequently going
into idle mode (heat level 1) until the thermostat again calls for heat. 2) The 8
lights also flash in cases when the flue thermocouple exceeds a nominal value of
250. This indicates that the stove is in overtemperature pullback mode; i.e., it
is ramping the temperature down as a safety precaution because the high
temperature threshold of 250 nominal thermocouple units has been exceeded. The
stove will shut down after 5 minutes if the thermocouple reading does not return
to an acceptable value (below 250?) within 5 minutes.
t

From Ashdump ( http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?p=111634 ) re.

overtemperature shutdown in the event that the overtemperature pullback operation
fails to lower the flue thermocouple reading sufficiently below 250 nominal units
within 5 minutes: "I usually run into this problem when my stove is dirty because
more heat escapes through the exhaust which passes past the TC giving it a higher
reading. I would clean out the stove again and see if it happens."
r

[edit]Other Codes
The power light on the power board (visible by removing the left side panel, when
facing the stove) flashes when the stove is adjusting heat level in preparation
for an ash dump. This applies to stoves running 2.06 version software or later.
See the following thread for tips on access through the side panels
http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=2158&highlight=magnet+side+panel .
h

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