Bicycle Repair Manual

CHRIS SIDWELLS
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I SBN 978-0-7566-3394-3
9 7 8 0 7 5 6 6 3 3 9 4 3
5 1 5 0 0
REPAIR
MANUAL
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C H R I S S I D W E L L S
Intr tr r trod od o uc cti ti i tion on n oon 7
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LONDON, NEW YORK, MUNICH,
MELBOURNE, AND DELHI
Senior Editor Richard Gilbert
Senior Art Editor Susan St. Louis
Managing Editor Stephanie Farrow
Managing Art Editor Lee Griffiths
Jacket Designer Lee Ellwood
Senior Production Editor Vnia Cunha
Production Controller Louise Daly
Produced for Dorling Kindersley by
Editor Pip Morgan
Designer Peter Laws
Original edition designed by
Edward Kinsey
Photographer Gerard Brown
Technical Consultant Guy Andrews
First American Edition 2004. Published with minor
revisions in 2005, this edition fully revised and
updated in 2008 in the United States by
DK Publishing, 375 Hudson Street
New York, New York 10014
08 09 10 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
BD58806/08
Copyright 2004, 2005, 2008
Dorling Kindersley Limited
Text copyright 2004, 2005,
2008 Chris Sidwells
All rights reserved
Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved
above, no part of this publication may be
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ISBN 978-0-75663-394-3
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Sa Sa Sa Safe fe ff tyy ty a aand nnd eeff fffic iciency are closely
linked ed ed e . If IIf I y yyyouuu our ge gears ar rre ee no ott sh shhif if i ti ting ng
co orrectl t y, f ffor or o iinstanc ce, they will not
only y aff ff f ec ee t yo your r rid idiin i g efficiency, bu b t
al al a sooo t tempt t y you o ttoo look down at them
wh wh hil il ilee ri ridi d ng ng tto see wh w at at iiss ca caus usin ing g
th tt e pr proob o lem. mm As a resu sult t, , yo y u u mi m gh ght
ta ake kee yyou our ey e es off w what is happening n
on on oon t tthe he rroad d aheadd and expose yourself
to to to o t tthe e posssii sibi b lity ty t o of f a collision. The
Bi Bi Bi Bicy cy cycl cl clee e Re Re Repa pa p ir ir M Man a ual will help you
aav av a oi oi oiid ddd ssu su s ch h pp pro r blems by demonstratting
ho hhow w to to to t mai aint ntain yyour bike regularly
an an and d co c rr rrrecctl tly. y.
Unders rstaaand ndin i g g te tech chnology
Mo Modeern r b bik ikes es mm may ay s ssee eem complicated,
annnd d the teech ch c nnolo logyy t tha h t manufacturers
us se ee may y be bb m mor ore e so s phhis isti tica cate ted d th than an
ev everrr.. Hoowe w veer, cycle l components work rk,
as aas as t they allllwwa wa w ys yy hav ave, according to
lo lo ogica al pr pr p innci ccc pl ples es, so s t there is no reason
fo fo for yooou u uu to to to to bb be daaunted.
Be Be Befo f re rr y yyyou ooo b beg e in to service a
partic cul ular ar com mponent of yo y ur bike,
fi f rs rst t be be beeco co come me fam aa iliar with the part
by by by ttur u ni ni iing nnng n t to oo the ee relevant sec cti tion o .
Kn Know owwwin in ing g g g ho ho how www a a a pa partt wworks mak kes it
ea ea easi si sier er er tt to o o ma main in inta tain iin.
Ab bbov ov ove e e al al all, ll bb bee e confident and patient
wwi wi w thh w wwha ha hat tt yo yo yooou uu are doing. Even if you
do do n not ot t thi hi h nk k o of f yourself as mech hanically ly ly
mindedd,, you u ma may come me tto o en enjo joy y bi bike ke
ma mm innntena anc n e e afteerr a while and will
ce ce cert rtai ainl nl nl nly y en en ee jo jo jj y y th the trouble-free
cy ycl cl cc in ing g th th that at rew wwards your efforts.
Co Coll llec ecti ting ng iinf nfor orma mati t on on
If you buy u a new bike, e make sure that
you ke k ep the accompanyin i g owners
manuall, so that you can refer to it
alongside this b bbook. Do the same with
an anyy y new eq eq equipm pment t th that at y yyyouu bbuy y.
If your bike is not new, obtain a
ma manual f fro r m a a bike sho h p or or the
ma m nufacturers W Web site. Manuals will
he help lp yyou ou ttoo be be aawa ware re ooff th thee pa part rtic icul ular ar
ma main i tena na nanc n e requiremmen e ts o of ff all the
components on your bike.
If you want to learn more about
bike mechanics, there are many
magazines available that contain
tips on specific components. However,
the large ma majority of people who a are
si simpply ly iint nter eres este ted d in in lleaarn rnin ing ho how w to to
maintain their bike will findd everything
they need to know in the pages of the
Bicycle Repair Manual.
Us Usin ing g th t is is bboo ookk
Th he different main ntenance requirements
of the mosst commonn types of bike kes are
listed at the beginning of the book.
These requirements are covered in the
step-by-step pages that are specific
to the components fitted to each type
of bikefor example, suspension forks
for mo moun untain in bikes..
You will also find a timettab a le for
servicing the parts of your bike and
a troubleshooting chart to help you
identify and solve problems. The book
helps yo ou to spot danger signs a aand to
ca carr rryy ouutt ro rout utin ine ee sa safe fety ty cche heck cks. s. TThe hese se
features detail what you need to do
and refer you to the relevant step-by-
step sequences to explain how w to do it.
Understanding your bike
will make it easier to
maintain. Identify all the
different parts and
components to help you
see how they work
together as a whole.
GETTING TO KNOW YOUR BIKE
Modern bikes, such as the hybrid bike (below), ww
are designed to be light and user-friendly.
Each part performs a key function in the
overall operation of the bike.
The frame is the skeleton on to which
all components are fitted. The fork holds the
front wheel, and connects to the handlebars
so the bike can be steered. Suspension forks
improve comfort and control over rough
surfaces. The drivetrain is the system that
Wheel (see pp.989, 1027) 77
The rims shape and high-tech
aluminum increase the wheels
strength. Wheels with disc brakes,
shown here, can have lighter
rims than bikes with rim brake brakes.
Hybrid bike
Advances in technology have
refined the design and improved
the performance of each category
of bike part, producing a machine
that is easy to ride and maintain.
Derailleur (see pp.50 05) 55
Derailleurs are designed tto
cope with the wide rangee
of sprocket sizes required
to climb and descend the to climb and de
steepest hills.
Pedal (see pp.7885) 55
Clipless pedals allow more
power to be transferred to
the wheels because the feet
are fixed to the pedals. Flat
pedals, and toe clips and
straps, are simpler,
but easier to use.
me Frame (see pp.1213)
mproved welding techniques allow Impr
thin-walled aluminum tubes to
provide a relatively cheap, light and
responsive frame. The thickness of
the tube walls varies to cope with the tube walls varies to cope with
areas of increased stress. areas of increased stress.
transfers the riders energy, via the pedals and
cranks, to the rear wheel. It also contains a
number of cogs, known as chainrings and
cogs, which carry the chain.
The derailleurs change the bikes gears by
moving the chain onto different chainrings
and cogs. Derailleurs are controlled by the
gear-shift levers, which are mounted on the
handlebar to allow quick and easy use by the
rider. The brakes are controlled by brake
The basic bike
10
n Drivetrain ((see pp.5677) see pp 5
Stiff materials maximize the
amount of power the drivetrain
transfers to the rear wheel. A
triple crankset increases gear
range and a flexible chain allows
quick, easy gear-shifts.
High-tech machine
Many years of design refinement have produced
an adaptable hybrid bike, which combines
technology from road and mountain bikes
for use in an urban environment.
Gear-shift levers
(see pp.449) 99
Ergonomically designed d
gear-shift levers were
developed from
mountain bikes, and give vee
easy, precise gear-shifts.
For or For For F kkkk ((((((see see ee see see e se pp ppp.13 13 13 .1384 84 4777)) 7777
Forks are designed with varying
thickness in the tube wall. Tubes
are thin in the middle and thick
at both ends. This reduces weight
and absorbs road shock. Some
forks also act as suspension
systems, further reducing shock
and improving control.
Brake (see pp.10835) 5
Disc brakes offer sensitive,
powerful braking that is not
affected by weather conditions.
Other bikes have rim brakes, O
which are still very good, w
although they require earlier a
braking to slow in the wet. b
Tire (see pp.1045) 55
Modern tires are made from
rubber compounds that roll well
on the road, while adhering to
it when cornering. They often
have puncture-resistant bands
of material, such as Kevlar,
beneath the tread.
levers that are also mounted on the handle-
bar, and use brake pads to press against the
wheels rim, or discs attached to the hub, to
stop the bike.
11
Anatomy
of the bike
Understanding how the parts on your bike fit
together will help you perform maintenance
tasks successfully. Although your bike may
differ from the modern mountain bike (right), tt
all bikes fit together in a similar way. For
example, the quick-release levers on the
wheels below perform the same function
as axle nuts on a bike with hub gears.
The main parts and their components,
and where each part is attached to the bike,
are shown on the mountain bike. Take the
time to study the illustration, since it will
act as a useful reference to help you follow
the steps later in the book.
Mountain bike
The mountain bike is a good example of
how parts fit togetherits frame, wheels,
drivetrain, pedals, derailleurs, brakes, and
gear-shift levers are similar to those of
road and hybrid bikes.
Rear derailleur
Jockey pulley
Derailleur plate
Barrel adjuster
Cassette
Cassette body
Cog
Lockring
Saddle
Saddle cover
Saddle rails
Seat post
Saddle clamp
Frame
Seat tube
Seat stay
Chainstay
Down tube
Rear brake
Cable-guide tube
Braking surface
Brake pad
Brake arm
Rear hub
Rear dropout
Hub
Quick-release
Bottom bracket
GETTING TO KNOW YOUR BIKE 12
THE ASSEMBLED BIKE
Bike parts are designed to bolt together
in the same way to allow straightforward
maintenance by following a few key
workshop principles (see pp.267). Most 77
parts use Allen bolts, so for many tasks an
Allen key multi-tool is all that is required.
Drivetrain
Right-hand crankarm
Chainring
Front derailleur
Chain
Tires
Tire bead
Valve
Tire
Inner tube
Pedal
Pedal body
Foot retention mechanism
Pedal axle
Front wheel
Hub
Spoke
Rim
Bike controls
Gear-shift lever
Handlebar
Grip
Brake lever
Anatomy of the bike
Steering
Handlebar stem
Top cup and bearing
Spacer
Stem cap
Head tube
Top tube
Steerer tube
Bottom cup and bearing
Fork crown
Fork blade
Slider
13
Quick-
release
GGGE GGE GE EEEEET EET ET ET TT GE EET GGGGG TT GGGE EET GGG T ET E GEE GGE GGE GEEET GETT E GGE TTI TIN TIN TIN TIN NNG T G T G TTTT G T G TTTTOO K OO K O K O K O K K O K O K O KKK O K O KKKK OO KK OO K OOO K OO KK O KKNNNNO NO NOW OW OW OW NNNN W NNO NOOW NOO NNN Y YYOO YO Y UUUR RR UR UU BIK IK KKKE E 14
YYYo Yo Yo YYouu u ca a ca can bbuy a bike for almost any purpose,
bu butt ev e en a simple utility, hybrid, or folding
bi bikke will still increase your fitness, save you
money y on on train or bus tickets, and have no
nega gattive impact on your environment.
As As long as the bike is of good quality,
you willl oonly need to keep it clean and
checkk it it rregularly for signs of wear. Hybrid
bikes, utili litty bbikes, and folding bikes are all
dependabble e le m maachines that are suitable for
commuting tto work or school, day-to-day
transportation, or simply a relaxing ride on a
bi b ke trail or country road.
TTh Th TT e hybrid bike
LLLii LLLLigh gh ggghtw tw twei eigh ght materials combined with road-
bbbbbbbii bi bbbbbbbbbi bbbike ke ke ke pp ppeerformmance and hardy mountain bike
ttttte tte tee te te ttte ttte te tech ch ch ch chh ch c nnno nolo lo ll gyy mmake hybrid bikes perfect for
bu bu bu buu bu buu bu bu bbu bu b mmmp mmpp mmm y yyy uur u ba b nn roads. They are ideal for
co co co co co co o co ccccccc mmm mmm mm mm mm mmmut ut u in ing, g, family y ri ride d s, fitness riding,
to to to too to too too too tto tour uur ur ur r uuuurin in in in i g, g, gg, aannd car arrrry ryin ing lugg gage.
Th Th Theee ut ut util ilit tyy bbbi bikke ke ke
Ut Ut Ut Ut tt Ut UUt Ut UUtil il il il il il liiit t it it ityyy y bi b keeeesss s ar ar ar arre e e iideal fo for loccal commuting
an aaan nndd d d sh shh shoort t t rriddde ddes. They aree equuipped with fat
ti ti tt rrees s th th thhaat at aat abbbs bs b orb road bum umpps but will drag
on on oon lon nnggg g jouuur rneys, making t the hem tiring and
uuncomf mffoor ortaaaable to ride.
Thh TT ee foldingg g bbike
Iddeal l fo for r co commmm mmuters, and for people with
li i li l tt tt t t lee le s sspa pp ce c i inn n which h to sto tore re aa standard bike,
ffoolld dingg g bi bikess ccca ca can go go any ywwhere, esp pecially
oonn p pub bli lic c trraansp sppor or orta t ti tioon. The fo old lded ed bike can
bbee e easiilyy rreas assemmb mble e ledd into a s seerviceable
mmmaaachinnee wwithhoutt th thee e us usee of of tools.
BBiikkkeeesss for
ggggggeeeennneeerrrraaal use
Urb Urb U an commuting
Wit W h its head-up, traffic-friendly riding position
and easy-to-operate gears, the lightweight hybrid
is is is ideal for urban commuting.
Bikes for general use 15
UTILITY BIKE
FOLDING BIKE
Regularly maintain
and lubricate the
derailleur gears (see
pp.523, 545). 55
Check the gear cab bble le es s

for signs of wear
(see p.39, pp.489). 99
Check the brake

cables or hoses, and
pads for signs of wear
(see p.39, pp.11415). 55
Check the tires for

signs of wear (see p.39 39 39). ) 9999
Regularly change the he he

chain (see pp.645). 55
Regularly lubr rric icat ate

the hub gears (((se se seee
pp.589, 6011).
Regularly y cch c eck k th t eee

gear cable ees s s for sign gn gns of
we wear ar ((sse see e p. p. p.39 39 3 ))). 9999
RReguuularl rl rly yy ch ch cheec eck k tth thee

brake cont ttro ro ol l l ca ca cabl bl bles es e
fo for r r si sign gnns s s offf wwwea ea arrr
(pp.1 1114 1441 1 1555). ). ) 5555
Regu g larly y ch heck th t ee

brak kee pa pads ds ffor or or sssig iggns ns n
of wear (see p.38)). 88
Regu g larly clean n an an anddd

ggrease tthe e ccha hain in ((se seee
pp pp 2 .28 89, 9, 3 330 0 0 111). )).
Regularly check and

lubricate the pivots and
the locks that allow the
bike to fold and unfold.
Regularly check hub

gears, even thou ou o ghh gh gh t they
are shielded fro ro om mm thhe
elements and so need
very little maintenance
(see pp.589, 601)
Pay extra attention to

th ttt e outer control cables
(((se se ee s e e p.39, pp.489). 99
Tire Tire Ti Tire
Rea Re Rear Rea
dera dera deraille ille illeur ur ur
Brake cable
Front
derailleur
Chai Chai C nn
Frame
hinge
Rear suspens pens pe pe ion on o
Large chainrings
Hub ub ub ub and
derailleur ur g ur gear ear
syst st stem em em
Hub Huu gears
Brak ake le e ver ver
Folded bike
Unfolded
bike
ESSENTIAL MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST
Gear cable
Chaingua uard r
Handlebar basket
Spru Sp ung s ng ssad addle
HYBRID BIKE
GGGET GET GET ET G T ET ET TTTTIN TIN TIN TIN TIN TING T TTT G T G T G T T G OOO K O K O K O K O KK OO NO NOW NOWW NOW NNOW YO YO YO YY UR UR UR R U BIK BIK BIK K BIK BIK B EEEEE 16
sport If ff I yy yyyouuu wwwwwan an an n a t t to to t ttttak ke e up cycling as a s
eans of oor h hh hhob obb o by by byy, rra aatthheerrr thhan simply as a me
cialized tr ttr tr t aannnssppppooorrta taaati t ooon,, , lllo look ok for a more spec
a bbiii bi b keee kk , su su suu s ccch hh asss ss a ra race e-level road bike,
mo mo mo mo mmmouun un nnttaa t iinnn b bbik ik ke, , ooor aa BMX bike.
ted, they AAs AAs As ss b bbikkkkees ess b bbbbecc e oom om omee e more sophistica
weight nnne ne eeeeed edd ed eed eed mmmmooorr o eee ca ca aaare r . Fo Fo or r example, lightw
kept pa pa pa paa parrt rttsss s wwweeearrr qquuuick kkly y, , sso they must be
ms ssc sc s rrru ru upu pppu u pulo oousssly y ccle eaan. CCarbon wheel rim
ot work re re ree re rr qqqquuuu q ir ir irree ssspp spp s eec ecia ia aal bbr br rak kee pads that do no
and wwwwe weee wwell ll ll o ooonn n n mme meetta taal. H HHyyd draulic disc brakes
ention. ssuu sussp sppp ssp s eeennn e ssi s oon onn ss sssyystte te e temms ms need regular att
ying your DDDDDooooo nnnnoot ot ot ot oo l llet et ett e tthhhis s stop you from buy
a joy, ddddrrreea eaaammm m bbbbi ike kke k . JJuustt stt st ass riding it will be a
s will mmmmaaa maaiin nnnnta taa taainnnin inng it it t ttoo eexacting standards
ence. bbbbeeee be p pppppppaaar ar arr aarttt t of off of thhhe he h w wwwho oole cycling experie
TTThhhh Theee e rrroooooad ad d a bbbik kk i eee
res make LLLi Li Liigggh gh ghh g ttwwwwweiggghhh g ttt mma ma aa m teri r als and narrow ti
y touring, ro ro ro oad d ad d ad a bbik ik iikeees es e g gggggoo ooodd dd fooor fitness riding, day
position aaan an an an ndddd dd d cco ccco o c mmmmp mppppeet et et e it ttiio io i nnns. Th T e aerodynamic
great ff af aaf af f aaf f af af af fffffo fo foo fo fo fo fo ffo fo foo ddd rd rd rrd rd rd rd rd rd rd d ed ed ed ed ed ed ed ed ed ed bbbbbbb bbbyyyyy y aaa ddr dr drop op handlebar offers
ave such sp spee eed. d Road bikes are so light and ha
e, with a a range of gears that almost anyone
mountain li ittle training, can tackle the great m
France. passes made famous by the Tour de
Th Thee mountain bike
w you Full l-suspension mountain bikes allow
s rugged to b break new ground and ride across
able and terrai ain that was previously unthinka
ble. at spe peed e s that were once unattainab
The BM BMX bike
n and Thesee bikes are built for acceleration
e very agilee bbike handling. Like some of the
ntirely firsst t bikes, BMXs are made almost en
er in a from m steel because it transfers powe
way th hat no other material can.
SSSSSSpppppeeeeeccciiiiaaalllttty bikes
Roa Ro R d r ridi inng
road-bike Thi Thi h TTT s r s r s road oad d bi bike k represents the ultimate in
fessionals des des des d ign ign ign ign gn gg , a , a , a , a aaand nnd is is ss the the type of bike that prof
uus use use use use se uuu in in in in n in in in ii th th th th th th tth thhhhe T ee T e T e T ee our our ou ouu de d d Fr F ance.
Specialty bikes 17
MOUNTAIN BIKE
BMX BIKE
CCaliper brake
20-speedd gear-
shif shift sy t s stemm
Road race
tire
Clip Clip Clipless less l
ped peda pedall
Gyro Gy
head head head headset
Sing Sing n S lle geari ea ea ng
Opposite site t
transmis smis m sion sion sio
Alum Aluminum inum
drop
handlebar
Rear deraill aill illeur eur eur eur
Rear ar r sho sho ho h ck ck
Carb Carb Carb bon-f on-fiber e iber e
fram fram framee
Cross-country
tire re re
Disc
brake
Susp Su uspensi ens on ff fork ork ork
ROAD BIKE
Regularly y clea an n andd

lu lubr bric icate th thee bi bike ke (see
pp.289, 3011).
Make routine s safety

ch c ecks ((see e pp.3 3233).
Ch Chec eck thhe braakes

(see pp.1 116 161177). 77
Make sure e ggears aare

wo working perfectl tllyy yy (see
pp.52 2 3, 554555). ). ). 5555
Check fram mmee ppr p otector

paads d for w wea ea ear r r in in inn t tthe he hhhe h
lo locati tioons s wh wh wher er eree e cable
ou oute ters toou o ch carboon- n-
fiibber fr frames (see e p.33 33). ).
Set up uup p tt tthe e sus spe ppe pensiioon

systemmmm ( (ssee ppp.1 11440 44 -1 11,,
1501111). ))
Regu guula larrl r y y clea aann n and

lu lubr b icccat at a e e thhe suuussp spensionn
(see pp pp pp.1 .1 1442 423, 14 14 1445). 55
Inspppec ect t al all l pivo vo vots and

seals re re reggu gula la larl rl rly. y. y.
Check brake cables es o orrr

hoses, and pads reguularl lyyy
(see pp.389, pp.11441555)). ). 555555
Replace the cass seette

every six months ( (see
pp.667). 77
Se erv rv rvic ic i e the he heaadse et

regu guula larly (see ppp.9001,
92 92 923).
RRegularly ch cheeck k thhee

bbo b tttom brack ket to o se seee
that at a it is runni n ng g f ffre re ee, e,
bbut t not loosse (se seeee
pp ppp.7 .7 .767). 77
Re Re Repl p ace the pe pe peda dals ls s

if if f if ttthe he heir axles are re re bb ben en enntt
(((se se see e e pppp.801). ).
Ad Ad djju j st the h b bbra ra ake ke kes s foooorr

mini nima m l travel b bbeef efore
the br bb akes es c cccom oo e e e on on on,
since thhe e st sttee ee eell l ri ri rimms ms,
thouugh gh gh g vvver er er e y y yy st st stro ro rong ng ng,
do n nnot ot ot m mmmake go go good od od
brak kkin in i gg ssu surf fac ac ces es es ((se eeeee
pp.122 22 223 3 3))).
Straight handlebar
Carb arb arb arb ar on-f on-f -fiber be be
fram fram frammeee
Stunt peg
De Deep Deep secttion t
ca car carbon fibe ber rimms
ESSENTIAL MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST
Setting up an
adults bike
If the saddles height and angle are adjusted
and the position of the brake levers on the
handlebar is set so that they are within easy
reach, then riding will be more efficient and
comfortable. A novice cyclist should try
setting the saddle height a little lower at
first, and work toward the ideal once he
or she is used to riding.
Adjusting your riding
position
Remove your shoes and sit on your bike,
supporting yourself against a wall.
Set your crankarms so that the pedal farthest

from the wall is at the low point of its revolution.
Put the heel of your foot on the pedal. Your leg

should be straight when you do this. Ask someone
to help you check.
Mov M e your saddle back if the depression
on your leg is in front of the axle. If it is
behind, move it forward.
Undo the saddle clamp under the saddle. On

modern bikes, you will need an Allen key; on
older bikes, use a wrench.
Repeat Steps 4 and 5 until you are sure you

have the position right.
Place the widest part of your foot over the
pedal axle. If your shoes have cleats, set
them up so that your foot can easily adopt this
position (see pp.845).
Set your crankarms parallel to the floor. The

depression on the side of your leading leg, just
behind the kneecap, should be directly over the
axle of the pedal. Ask your helper to check.
STEP LOCATOR
222222222222222222222222222222222222
5555555555555555555555555555555
33333333333333333333333333333
66666666666666666666666666666666
777777777777777777777777777
1111111111111111111111111
4444444444444444444444444444444444
1111111111111111111111
444444444444444444444444444444444 5555555555555555555555555555555
Toolbox

Allen key multi-tool
Wrenches
Screwdriver
TThe kn knnee aaligns ns ns ns
wit wit w h t tt h he h ax axl xle
18
Setting up an adults bike
Raise the saddle if your leg is not straight
when your heel is on the pedal. Lower the
saddle if your heel does not reach the pedal.
Undo the seat pin clamp bolt. Raise or lower

the saddle, tighten up the bolt, and try again. Ask
your helper to see if your leg is straight. Do not
lean on the foot that you are testing.
To make absolutely sure the saddle height
is right for you, go for a ride with your
cycling shoes on and your feet in their normal
position on the pedals.
Ask your helper to ride behind you and make

sure your hips are not rocking from side to side
as you ride. If they are, the saddle is set too high
and you need to repeat Steps 1 and 2.
Adjust the reach of the brake levers if you
have to stretch too far.
Undo the brake cable (see pp.11819) and 9

screw in the adjuster on the lever until you can
reach it easily. Then reclamp the brake cables.
Set the brake levers at an angle to the handlebar

so that you can pull them in line with your arm.
Make sure that the brake reach allows
you to apply the brakes using the first
joints of your first two fingers, while holding
the handlebar securely with your thumb and
remaining fingers. You should be able to hook
your fingers over the brake levers. If you have
to stretch too far, you will be unable to apply
enough power.
19
22222222222222222222222222222 33333333333333333333333333333333
7777777777777777777777777777 6666666666666666666666666666
Setting up a
childs bike
Before a child starts riding a bike, adjust the
saddle and handlebar to suit his or her body.
Set the saddle at its lowest point, as in Step 1.
Buy the biggest bike possible at first, then
keep adjusting it as the child grows taller.
Childrens bikes are usually measured by wheel
sizefrom 12in (30cm) up to 24in (60cm).
Adjusting the position of
the saddle
Set the saddle on your childs bike at a
height that allows him or her to sit on it
and simultaneously to touch the ground with the
front part of each foot. This is the ideal setup.
Raise or lower the bikes handlebar by
loosening the expander bolt that holds the
stem into the bike. This bolt is secured by either
an Allen bolt or a hexagonal bolt, so use an Allen
key or a wrench to loosen it.
Knock the bolt down with a plastic mallet to

free it up if you need to.
Grip the front wheel betweeen your legs to
steady it and then pull the hhandlebar up or
push it down. Do not pull the handdlebar higher
than the safety limit that is marked on the stem.
Once the handlebar is at the right height, and the
stem is lined up with the front wheeel, tighten the
expander bolt.
20
11111111111111111111111111
22222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222 1111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111
STEP LOCATOR
111111111111111111111
22222222222222222222222222
33333333333333333333333333333
11111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111
22222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222
3333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333
Toolbox
Wrenches
Plastic mallet
Adjusting the height of
the handlebar
Setting up a childs bike
Loosen the seat pin clampit has either a
quick-release lever or a nut-and-bolt fixing
that requires a wrench. Either pull the saddle up
or push it down to the required height.
Move the saddle forward or backward
by loosening the nut that secures the seat
clamp. Tighten the nut again, but be sure that the
saddle is horizontal to the ground.
Adjust the e s sad add dd d d le le eee
and hanndl dlleb ebb eba eb eb e arr s r s ssssti til il til ti llll
further if y yoou ou nnee nee ee eedd ttt d too, o, sso o so oo
that your ur ch hild d ild ild i dd cca ca cca aann s n s n s nn siit iit it t t in in in in n
the id deal e r rri ri rr dinn in ing ggg p g p p g gg oos osi si os ositiiio ttio tioooonnnn
neith the her t r t r t ttoo oo oo ooo uuup up pr upr pr uu rr uprriig igh ighh igh gh ig ghtttt, , t, t, t, , no no no or nor o no or or
to too ooo st st st st trret ret retttcch ch che che he e h dddd. d. d. dd.
21
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3333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333
Your bike needs to be
kept clean and well
lubricated to avoid
mechanical problems.
Learning to make
cleaning, lubricating, and
checking a regular part
of your bike routine will
lengthen the life of your
bike and its components.
ain and If f If If ff yyyyy yooou o a aare g goi oing to regularly mainta
uy a rre re re e re ee re repa ppa pa pa pa pa ppair ir ir ir i y yyouur bbike, you will need to bu
ools to to to ttt ol ol ol ol ol ol ol oo k kkit iitttt itt or as assemble your own. The to
arry out sh sh sh hhhh shooow oow ow ow ow ow oo n nnn n oop o poosite will enable you to ca
ain your al al aal al ll aaa l l ttth th th h th t e eee e es es es e se sseent n ial repairs and to mainta
tools bbi bbiii bike kke ke kkkke kkk aat t pe pp ak aak ak k performance. Add other
ur bike as as as aassss a r rr rrrreq eq eq eeee uuuuuuui uuuu red d when specific parts of you
owever, ne ne nne nnne n eed ed eddddd edd mm mmmmmmmm mmaai aaaa nntenance or replacement. Ho
when tr tr tr tr tr tr ttrry yy y yy yyy ttto tttt f fffol oollo ow a few general principles w
uus ssin innn innn innnng gg th th th th tt e to tools.
ally WWWWWh WWh W en eeeee u usi s ng tools on a bike, especia
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over- an an an nd dd d d bo bo bo bollt llts only ly n nnnee ee e d to be tight; if you o
bt, buy ttti tigh gh gh gh gh ghte te tee teee teeeennn nn th thhh th tthhem emm, th th they y ey ey wwill shear. If in doub
the to to toorq r uue ue uuue e uuu g gauuuuuuuge gg s th thhat a accurately measure t
ts cco co orrrec eec ec eecc ect t le leve vve ve ve ve v ll offf tig ig ghhtness on a bikes nuts
urers aaandd bo bo bbbb lt lts. s. s.. s.. SSeee ee eee the e c component manufactu
in nnnst st s ru ruuuuu ruuct ct ttio oooooons ns ns ns nss ffor r rrec ecoommended torque
se se se se ssss tt tt tt tttinnnnn in in i gs gsss. .. In In In In In In III fac acc ac act, tt it is is essential to keep all
e, ttth th th th ttttttt e e e in in nnnnnnst stt st stttttrru ru rrrrrrr ct ct ct tttio io io io io i nns t ttha ha h t t come with your bike
tto ttto to to ttttto tt ol ol ooo s,, s, aa aaand nd nd nd nd nd nd nd nd nd ndd nd aany ny nyy cccom omppo ponents you buy.
Bu Bu Bu Bu Bu Bu uuy y y y y yyyyyy th th the e e e be be be bb st st-q -q -qua ali lity, precision-made
to to to to to to to to to to to to to to to to tto to to too to to to too to tooool ol ol ol ooool ool oool ol o s. s. s. s. s. ssss TTTT TT TThe he he he he he he hh y y yyyyy wi wi wi www ll ll ll last for many years if you
and ta ta ta ta taa ta ta ta ta ta ta ta ta ta ta ttta t ke kke ke kkke kkke kee ke kke kkkee kk ccc ccccaar ar aaar ar ar ar aarr are e e e ee e e of of of of of of of off ttttttthe he he he hem. mm. m CCC Chheap tools will bend a
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ca ca ca ca ca ca ca ca a ca aaarr rrr rr rrrrrrr rrr yy y y y y y y y yyy oou ou ou ou ou ou oou ou oou out ttt t so so so so so so some mm m mai aint nten e ance jobs properly.
Th Th hh Th They ey ey ey ey eey ey ey ey ey ey ey ey ee cc ccccc couuuuuld ld ld ld ld ld ld ld lld eeevveen n da dammagee the components
th thh thhh thhhhhhhat at at at at at at at aaat at at yyy yyyyou oou ou oooooo ww wwwwwwwor ooo kk k on onn oo . . .
TTTTToooooooooooolss
WWWo Wor W kin kin kin ing g wit thh to tools
WWWWhe Whe h W n n u usin sing y yoour ur tools to o
mmmai ma nta ta tain in in or re rep eppai air your bi ik kee,,
ggiv giv giv g e y yy e oou ourrsel s f p ppllen enty of roo roommm
an and and nd aaaaaaaaaaa al al lwwway ys woor rkk in a neatt,
wel wel wwel wel wel e we l-l l-l l-l l-l l- it it iit it env env en iro ronme nment. nt nt. nt n
24 CAR CAR CA CAR CA CA CAR CAR CAR CCAR CAR RR CAR R CA AR ARING ING ING NG NG NG NG ING IIN IIN NG IN IN IN FO FFO FO FO FO F FO FFOOOR R Y RR Y YY R Y YYYYYYY R Y YY R Y RR Y YYYYYYYYYYYYYOU OUR OUR UR UUUUUU OU OUR UR UUUUR UUUR UUUR UUUUUUUUUUUUUU BB BB BBBBBBBBBI BI BI BI BI BI BI BBBBBI BBBBBI I BBBI BI BBBBI I BBBIIIIII B KE KE KE KEE KE KE KKKE KKKKKKKKE KE K
Tools 25
Crank
puller
SPE SPE SPECIA CIALTY LTY TO TOOLS OLS
Essential tools
Start your toolbox with the two
multi-tools, the wrenches to fit
the cones, needle-nose pliers,
cable cutters, a pump, and a
workstand.
Pumps and Workstand
Wrenches and Allen Keys Drivetrain Tools
Pliers and Cable Cutters
Spok p e keys e keys
and spoke
ruleerr
Chain n
meas m uringg
device
Cabl Cable pu e pu p ller
Ben nch h vise
SSo Some me e m maaintenan nce ce a and nd r rep epla laceme m nt tasks
rrequ qq iire specia ialtty y to tool o s that a y you ou o wwill not
use e e vverry oft ften e . OOthher tools, suc uch h as the
cabbblee ppuller e , ar re no not essentia all buutt t wi w ll
ma ma makke ke k s somme jobs e eaasier.
Track
pump
Hollow-axle crank cap tool
Wrench
Bottom Bracket Tools
Bottom-bracket remover
Peg
spanner
ow-axle Hollow
tool cup t
Chain
tool
Crankar
m bolt
wrench
Chain
whip
Cassette remover
Allen key
multi-tool
Allen keys
210mm
Plastic mallet
Mallet
Wrench multi-tool
Wrenches
1318mm
Frame-mounted
pump
Shock pump
Workstand
Needle
-nose
pliers
(wide)
Needle-
nose
pliers
(narrow)
Cable
cutters
CARING FOR YOUR BIKE
Workshop principles
Cutting cable housings Using a wrench
Put the long axis of
an Allen key in the
Allen bolt to make the
key easier to use, both
for repeated turns and
in places where space
is tight or restricted,
such as putting a
bottle cage on the
down tube.
Use the short axis
of an Allen key to
make the final turn
when tightening an
Allen boltfor
example, on a
chainring. You can
also use this technique
to start undoing an
Allen bolt.
Always use the correct size of wrench for the
nut you are tightening or loosening. Hold the
wrench firmly at the end to maximize leverage.
Make sure that the jaws fully enclose the nut to
prevent it from slipping.
26
Four key principles govern the work you do
on your bike. The first is neatnessfind a
place for each tool and return it there when
you are finished with it. Second, do not use
too much force to tighten componentsthe
nuts and bolts of lightweight parts can easily
Use needle-nose
pliers to hold cables
and keep them under
tension. Buy a small
pair with pointed jaws
for tight areas. Keep
the jaws clean and
grease-free. Lubricate
the pivot with light oil
occasionally.
Fix a cable crimp
onto a brake cable to
stop the ends from
fraying. Push the cable
crimp onto the end of
the cable and squeeze
it flat with your pliers.
If you are gentle, you
can use the inside jaws
of your cable cutters.
Cut a brake cable
housing between the
spirals of the metal
tube under the sheath.
If the spirals become
compressed, squeeze
them with the inside
of your cutter jaws
until they are round.
Cut a gear cable
housing through the
wire under the sheath.
If you need to, squeeze
the wire with the
inside of your cutter
jaws until its cross-
section is round again.
Using Allen keys Using pliers
shear. Third, remember the order in which
you take components apart. Finally, keep
all of your tools clean and dry.
The guidelines below provide you with
general principles for some of the most
common tools or operations in bike repair.
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ou ou ou ou ou ou ou ou out ou out out ut ut ut out out out ou ou ou oou out ouut u oou oo ttt es es e ees es essssss ess es es es esssss ess es e se sen ssen sen sen sen een se een en sen sen senn sennn sen se en en se se e se en ee sen ssenn ssse s nn sssss n ss nnnnntia ti tia tia tia tia tia tia aaa tia tia tia t a tia tia a t a tia tia a ia ti tiaaaaaaall r l r l r l r l r lll r l l l l r l l r l l l l lllll epa epa epa pa pa pa aa pa pa aaaaa pa pa aa pa aaaaairs irs irs irs rs rs rs rs rs irs s rsss rss me me me mm mmmmm me me me me me m mme me m mme mmme mmee me meean aaaaaans ns an ans ans ns ns ns ns ns aaans ns ns ns aans ans ans ans ns ann an ans ns ns ns aann aaa s th th th th hhhhhh th th th th h th th th th tth h thhh th tt at aat at at tttttt yyyou ou ou ou youuu ouu ouu yyouu youu yo y u y ccccccca ca aaaa ccca ca cca aaa ca a ca aa ca ca a ca a cca cccan k n k n k n k n k n k n k n k n k n k n k nnnn k n k nn k n k nn k n k n kk n k nnn k nn k nnn k n kkkkeeeeeeee eep ee eep eep eee eeeeee eeeeee e
yo yo you you you you you you you ouu youuu yyou youuu you you ou ouuu you ouuuu yyouu yyo yyyyy r b r b r b r b r b rr b r b b r b b r b r b rrrrrrr rr b rrrr ike iike ike ike ke ke ke ke ke ke ke ke ke ike ike ike ke ke ike ke iikke ike ike ikke ike kee at at at at at at at at at t at at at at at at aaat at aat attt at tt aat tt at at pe pe pe pe pppe pe e pe pe pe e pe pe pe pppe pe pe pe pe pe pe pe pe pe pe pe pe e pe pe ppp ak aaak ak k ak ak k aaaaaak k aaaaaaaaaaaa per per per per per per er er er pper per per pper er er per er er pperrfor for for fo fo ffo fo fo fo fooo for or or r forrr for f r fffoor or ff rrrrr fo f r forr fo mmman man man man man man man man man man man ma ma man man man man man man mman man man aa man an man an man man m nnn man m nnnnccccce ccce ce. ce cce cccce ce c If If If If ffffff If ffffffff yo yo yo yo yo yo yyo yyo yo yo yo yo ooo yo yo yo yo o yoooo yo yoo yooo yoo yyyooo y uuuu h u h u h u h u u h hh u h hh u h u h u h uuu h u h uu uu h hhhh hhh uuuuuu hhhav av av av av av av av av av av vvvvve ve ve av av av v av aaav vv ave ve vv aaaaaaaav a th th th theee
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tha thha tha th tha ha ha ha ha a ha ha aa thhaaa ha ha a ha th that i tt i tt i t i t t t i ttt t tt i t i t t ttttt ttttt tt s w s w s w s w ss w ss w s w ww ww s w ww w s s w w s w s w w s w s w s ww s well ell ell ell el el el el elll l el el ell eel e or or or or or or or or rrrrrr or oor r or rrr ooorgga gan gan gan ga ga gan an gan gan gan gan gggan a gan gan gan nize ize ize ize ize ze ize ize ze ze ze ze ize ze ze ze ize ze zee zee ze zee ze izeee i ddddd a dd a dd a d a d a d a a d a a d a d a d a aa dd a d a ddd a d a d aa d a a d a ddd dddddd nd nd nd nd nd nd nd d nd d nd nd nd nd nd nd nd nd nd d nd d nd nnd nd ddd nd d nnnnd dd n equ eq eq eequ eq equ equ equ equ equ eq equ equ equ eq equ eequ eequ qq eqqu eqq equ eeqqu q equ equ qqqu eeqqu uuuuipp ipp ip ipp ipp ipp pp ipp ipp ipp ip ipp ipp pp iipp ipp ip ipp ipp pp ipp ippp pp pp ip ip pppp pppp ppppppppppeed ed ed ed ed ed ed ed eed ed eed eed eed ed eedd eeeeeed eeeeed ed eeeeeeee wwwwwwwwi wi wi wit wit wit wit wwwwi wwit ii wi wi wwwi wwwwwww h a h a h a h a aa h lll ll the the the hhhe e hh
tooo too oo o ls ls s s ls s ls yo you you you yo you you you you you ou you ou uu you you you you oo you you yo you you you you you you youu youuu ne ne ne ne ne e nne ne nne ne ne ne ne e ne ne ne ne nne ne eed ed ed d ed ed edd eed ed ed ed ed d ee for fo for for fo for for or ffoor for for fo for foor for or or for for rr or for for or rr for foo for for oor foor ff r yo yo yo yo yo yyyyyo yo yo yo yo yo yo o yo o yo yo yyo yo yo yo yo yo yyo yo o yyyo yyo yyo y ur ur ur ur ur ur ur ur ur ur ur uur uur ur ur ur uur rrrr ur r rr r r r r pppa pa pa a par par par par par ar par par par par par par par par par par par aa par par p r pa ppar par par pa p r par r pp tic tic tic tic tic tic tic tic tic tic tic ii tic c tic t c tic ic tic ic ccc ic t cc tti ula ula ula ula ula ul ula ula lll ul ula ula ula ula ula l ula ula ula ula la ula ula ula la ula ula ula ula uula ula u a laaa llaaaa ula ula aa uula aaaarrrr r b bbbbbb r r b b rr b r b rr b r b b r bbbbbbik ik kkke kke kee ke ik ke. C . C . C . C Crea rea rea rea rea re re te te te tte aaa
wor wor or wo wor wo ksh k h ksh ksh ksh k oop op op ooopp tha tth tha tha ha ha hhhhh tha tha h tha h tha aa tha a tha ha t t i t i t i t i t i t i tt i t i i t i ii t ii t i t i t i t i t i t i tt i tt i t i t iiiis d s d s d s d s d ss ddd s d dddd s d dddddd s d s d d ss d d s d ddd s d s d s ddry ry ry y rry ry yy r wit wit wit wit wit i wit wit w h p h p h p h p h pplen le en len len ee l ty ty ty ty ty tyy y y oooooof of oooof oooo lig lig li li li ht ht ht ht hhh and and and and an aaa
fol fol fo o low loww l w th th ttttthe f e f e our ou ur oour u ke kkkkey w w y w work ork rk ork rk ksho sho sho sho s p p p p p p pprin rrin in rin rin ri rrri rincip ip cip cc les lesss l ...
CARING FOR YOUR BIKE 28
Cleaning your bike
Although a bike is a very efficient and
durable machine, some of its more delicate
parts are at the mercy of the elements. Grit
and dirt, for example, stick to lubricants
and act as a grinding agent. Clean the parts
regularly to keep them running smoothly
and prevent them from wearing out.
While cleaning your bike, check all the
parts and components for damage. With the
wheels taken out, you can look at parts of
the bikes frame that are usually hidden
and examine each component for signs of
dangerous wear (see pp.323 and pp.389). 99
The process of cleaning is straightforward.
First, remove old lubricants by applying a
degreaser. Then wash the dirt off with
water and detergent. Finally, rinse, dry,
and lubricate the exposed moving parts.
Removing dirt and oil
Remove both wheels from the bike and put
the frame in a workstand or hang it up.
Place a chain holder in the rear dropout to

keep the chain tight while the rear wheel is out
of the bike. This allows the chain to run freely so
that it can be cleaned thoroughly.
Apply a degreaser to remove any old oil and

grit. Spray onto the crankset, the front and rear
derailleurs, and the chain, covering each link.
111111111111111111111111
Spray the chainrings, crankset, and front
derailleur with more degreaser if there is
still stubborn oil and dirt (inset). tt
Dip the sponge in hot, soapy water and wrap it

around the chain. Turn the pedals so the chain
runs through the sponge.
Use the same sponge to wash the rear

derailleur, the front derailleur, and the chainrings.
55555555555555555555555
Clean the rest of the wheel, including the
tires, with a bigger brush and soapy water.
Work the bristles in between the spokes and

around the hub. Rinse with clean water and dry
everything with a cloth.
444444444444444444444444444
Cleaning equipment
Plastic bucket
Sponges
Degreaser
Cloth
Hard-bristled brushes
Cassette scraper
Cleaning your bike 29
App A ly ple pl nty of soapy y water ter er
to to the rest t of o the bi bike k wit i h a
different t sponge. Staart at the the top
and work down.
Use diff fferent-sized, har rd- d-

bristled bruushes to work o th t ee
water int too the placess th that at
are hard to reach.
Rinse se with clea ean n water

and dr ry the bikke with h a aa
clean cloth. .
UUse a sp sponge ge g to to wo wwork rk r

soaap into o intr tri tricatee p part rts, s,
su uch ass betw tw tw et eenn thee brak rakkkeeeeee
arms and nd ttthe t ppads. ds.
Rep pllac lac ccee thhe wh whe heels an nddd

sp parin ngl glyy g ap ppplyyy a llight t t oi oil oi
too the he e ch hain n a an n and tt the he he
mmoviing ng p pa art rts ss of thee e
frront t t and d r re eaar deerai ail illeu euuurrs. rs. r
66666666666666666666666666666
Use Use a har har hard-b d-b b -b -bris ris ristle ttle tled b b d b d rrus rushhh on th the the the e ca ca ca c sse sse ssette tte tt tte
so s tha tha th th t t t t t he h deg eg deg deg egrea rea rrreasse ser ser ser re each a es into the
sspa spa spa s ces cces ces ces be be bbetwe twe tween enn the the tthe co ooggs. Allow a few ew
i min min nute ute ute utes f s f s f s or or r the the the de de degre gre grease ase aser t r r too w work orkk, a , a , and d
was wa was w h i i h it o t o t o t off fff wit wit it with s hh s h oap ap apy w y w y wwate ater. r. r.
33333333333333333333333333
Use se a cas as asse sette e scrrap ape aper to to gouge ge e g outt ut out out o an an an aan anyyy
di dirt and d nd debbrris th th that at hhas h ac aac ac cccum cum um mula ula a ulated ted ted ted
betwee ween the he he cog gs.
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Dribble light oil on to the
pivots in the front and
rear derailleurs once a week.
The jockey pulleys on the rear
derailleur also need some light
oil where they rotate around
the jockey pulley bolts.
Make sure you flush out any

old oil with degreaser first.
Oil the chain after riding
in wet weather, and clean,
dry, and lubricate when cleaning
your bike (see pp.289). Except 99
in winter, or in bad conditions,
use light oil from a spray can
or bottle.
Hold a cloth underneath the

chain to catch any excess oil.
Grease open bearings
after regular cleaning
with a light grease specifically
made for bikes. Bottom brackets
and hubs need most attention,
but headsets need regreasing
less often. Riding regularly in
the rain shortens the interval
between lubrications.
Dribble some light oil inside the cable
housings before you fit a new cable. This
makes sure that the cable runs smoothly inside.
Poor gear-shifts are often due to cables running
dry inside their housings. The same is true of
brakes that are hard to apply and slow to return
to the ready-to-use position.
66666666666666666666666666666
33333333333333333333333333333333333
4444444444444444444444444444444444444
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222222222222222222222222222222222222
55555555555555555555555555555
11111111111111111111111111111
55555555555555555555555555555555 444444444444444444444444444444 3333333333333333333333333333333
STEP LOCATOR
Lubricating
your bike
Regular lubrication helps a bike to run
smoothly and prevents excessive wear and
tear. Each time a part of the bike is lubricated,
remember to remove the old oil and grease
with degreaser first (see pp.289). Applying 99
new lubrication on top of old does not work
because lubricants attract grit and dirt to
the bike and form a grinding paste that
can cause damage.
The lubricants needed vary from light
spray oil (dry lube) and heavier oil (wet lube)
to light grease manufactured specifically for
bikes and anti-seize compounds.
30
Applying oil and
grease
Spr S ea ead an nti ti-sei eizzeee com mpound nd
on on tthe seaat pi pin in and d st stem tto
prevennt the tw two wo co co compo ponnents ts ts fro fromm
binndi ding w wiith th tth the s sea eat t tu ttube be be b or o ste ste te st ere re ererrrr
tub tube. . Alt Alt Altho hou hough yyou you c ca ca c n u usse e ggre gre g ase ase
in n pla pla place ce of f an ant ant ant a ii-s i-s -s -seeeiz eizee, , alw alw alw lways ay ays us use a e e a
cco cop op ppper er-b -ba -ba b -bassed sed sed ed aan anti ti- ti-sei se ze ze ze com com com om c po pou pound nd nd n
fo for for orrrrr lu lu lu lu lu ubbri br bri bricat c t ating ing ing gg co co comp mpoonents mad de
wit wit wit withh c carb arb arb bon on n fib fib fiber. errr
Smear grease on all new cablles an nd n ,
occasionally, on old on ones.
Place a blob of grease o on the nnipple en ennd o d f the

cable, then pull the cable le throuugh your our thum mb
and index finger before e fittingg it. We eaar
mechanics disposablee glovees. s.
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66666666666666666666666666666
Lubricating your bike 31
STE STEPP LOC LOCATO ATORR
55555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555
33333333333333333333333333333333
Making routine
safety checks
Every week or so, check the bike frame for
signs of wear. Before going for a ride, run
through a few checks to reduce the chances
of a mechanical failure: brakes that cease to
work, a loose handlebar, a tire blowout, or
slipping gears. The checks will help to avoid
many of the accidents caused by equipment
failures. Safety checks help the management
of a bike, allowing the timely replacement
of parts or the completion of non-urgent
maintenance work.
Making frame checks
Inspect the frame every week or so and
look for metal fatigue. Run a finger under
the down tube where it joins the head tube. A
ripple in the tubes surface could lead to a break.
Check around the area where the chainstay

bridge is brazed to the chainstays, particularly on
a steel frame. Cracks may form in the metal here
because of the heat of the brazing process.
1111111111111111111111
Apply each brake fully
and push the bike forward.
If the lever pulls to the bar
before the brake stops a wheel
from rotating, adjust the travel
or replace the pads.
Apply the front brake. Tighten

the headset if you feel any play
in the steerer assembly.
222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222
Lift the bike, slowly spin
the wheels, and check the
tires for cuts, splits, or bulges.
If you find a bulge, or are in
any doubt, replace the tire.
Check the tire pressure.
Remove anything stuck in

the tire, as it may cause the tire
to deflate (see pp.1045). 55
333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333
Hold the front wheel
firmly between your legs
and try to turn the handlebar
from one side to the other. If
there is any movement, check
the stem and steerer bolts and
tighten them if necessary.
Try twisting the bar upward

to look for rotational movement.
1111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111
Making pre-ride checks
11111111111111111111111111111111111111111 2222222222222222222222222222222222222222222
1111111111111111111111 2222222222222222222222222222222
333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333
44444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444
Making routine safety checks 33
Monitor all the parts that are riveted to
an aluminum frame, especially the cable
guides or the front derailleur hangers. The rivets
form potentially weak areas where stresses in the ntially weak areas where stresses in the
metal may develop into cracks.
222222222222222222222222222222222
Run through the gears
and make sure that they
are properly adjusted. Gears that
will not mesh properly after you
change them can be distracting
and, if you look down to see what
is wrong, potentially dangerous. If
the gears are correctly adjusted
and the chain is still jumping,
check for a stiff link.
5555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555
Protect carbon-fiber frames in areas
where the cable outers touch them. Buy a
self-adhesive protective patch and peel off the
back Place it on the frame sticky side down back. Place it on the frame, sticky side down,
under the cable outerit is very important to
prevent the cable from wearing down the carbon
frame. Check the patches regularly and replace
them when worn.
3333333333333333333333333333
Chec ck that all
quick-release
levers are in the
locked posiition, and
wheel nutss are tight.
Look for thhe words
lock and unlock
on the leveers lock
is outermosst when
the wheel iis secure
(see pp.10223).
444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444
Maintenance
Schedule the work you need to carry out
on your bike by developing a maintenance
timetable. The timetable on the right
provides a good template, since it shows
the tasks you should perform on your bike
and suggests when you should do them.
Your schedule depends on how much and
where your bike is ridden. A heavily used
off-road bike requires attention at much
shorter intervals, while a bike used for
infrequent, short road journeys will need
less regular attention.
However, work carried out as part of
a maintenance schedule does not replace the
safety checks that must be carried out
before every ride (see pp.323), or regularly
looking for danger signs (see pp.389). You 99
should also check your bike and lubricate
the drivetrain every time you clean it.
Chain for wear (see pp.6 645) 55
Gear-shift performance (se ee pp.469, 525)) 55
Inner cables for fraying and o d outer cables for w wear
(see pp.469) 99
Crankarms and chainring g bolts s for tightness
(see pp.689) 99
Oil chain (see pp pp.3 301)
Oil jockey pulleyys (see pp.54 .54--5) 55
Headset for r looosennesss andd eaase of ssteering
(see pp p..903 3) 33
Action n of qu uick--release e levvers (ssee pp.1023)
Wheels s for b broken en spo po okkes a and tru ueness (see pp pp.10 1067 67 7)) 7777
Handllebar aand s stem for cra ackks ((see pp.947 7 7))) 77777
Inner cab bless ffor fray ay ying ing ing an and and outer cab cablles for weear
(see pp p.1112215) 55
Pads f s or or wear a annd nd ali igggnmen nt (see pp.116 63, 128 289) 99
Hyd ydra aulic hose ses es for w r w wear, k kiinks, or leaks ((se see pp.1301 0 1)
Brake leverss, , arms, , d discs, and and n ca calipers fo f r cracks
(see pp.11 1122 223, pp ppp.1283 33)
Disc and d ca caliper b r b bolts f foor or tig ghtn h ess (see ppp.13011))
Oil expossed ed cab bbles by y wi wipin p g with wet luube on a rag
Fork and shock exterior sur rfac faces es for f cracks
(ssee pp p 14 .1424 24 45, 5, 150 1500 51 51 5 )))
St tanchions unnde n r s r shoc hock booots, s, iif fitted t d ff , for oor cracks
(ssee pp pp.14 1 01 11)
Toop caps ps, p crowwwn bollts, and sha haft ft bol olts ts for for
tigghtnes esss (see p ppp.13 389 8 , 1423, , 1445) 55
Teflo on oi oil o on fork rk k stanc nchions and sh sh shock ock o body,
and on all l s seals ((sssee pp p.1404 47, 7, 7, 150 1 1)
S
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MAINTENANCE TIMETABLE
EVERY WEEK
C
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Maintenance 35
Bottom bracket for sm moot ooth r r h unning, play, and bent axle (see
pp.727) 77
Pedals for play, and clipless ped dals als for play and release action
(see pp.803)
Rea Rear d r dera er illeur pivots for play (see pp.54 545) 55
Cog Co and chai hainring teeth for wear (see pp.66 669) 99
Oil derai ille lle eur r pivots (see pp.301)
Oil and g d g grea reasse inner and outer cablee bles ( ss (see see pp pp 30 .30 1 1)))
Oil clipl pl pless ess pedal releaase se mmechanisms (see pp.401)
Cha Cha ain in on on n a heav avily ily us us d ed bike (seee pp pp.40 .401, 645) 55
Hub Hub H s for play on a axles, roughness, or tight spots
(see pp.1003)
Rubber seals on hubs for splits (se ee pp pp.1003)
Cov Covers, if f f fitted, on headsets (se see pp pp.40 . 1)
Oil Oil th t e seals on hubs (see pp.1003 3))
Discs for we w ar and ca allipers ers f for allignme nm nt (see pp.13011))
Grease inner cablees and oil oil iinside oooute uter c c r cabl abl b es es ((see see pp p .30 301,
11417) 77
Brake pads of heavily us used ed mouu m nta nnt in in bikes es es (((see pp pp.1202 2233))
Fork and shock ck for play y (see see pp pp.14 .14 1405 05, 1 , 1 , 50 50 50 0 111))
Fo ork stanchions to o se se seee i e if o ff oil il il lin lin l e v e v visi isi is ble ble ble ( ((see see pp pp p.14 14 . 05 05 0 )) 5555
Fo ork and sho hock seals s s ffor cr rack ac s aand ndd sla sla slackn ckn ck es ess (see seee pp pp p .14 .1405 5 05,,
15 1501).
(Play, y absen nccce of ooil li ines n , and d ccracke cked s d seal eal eals s a s are re all all ev evide idee d nce nc ce of of f
worrnn seals, whi which shouuld be re replaced ed by by a a tra ra traine n ined t d t techh e nic i nician ian ) .)
Fork and shock sag (see ee pp.14 14011, 1 , 15501)
Turn bike upside down an andd store o ove vernight so oil il caann
redistribute in fork
Freehub body and freewwheel for play (see pp.667) 77
Rear derailleur frame fi fixxing bolt for play (see pp.545) 55
Cleats for wear (see pp pp.845) 55
Jockey pulleys for weaar (see pp.545) 55
Oil in hub gear, if equi quipped with oil port (see pp.589) 99
Gre Gre G ase ase be bearings in peddals (see pp.801)
Cha Chain in ((see see pp pp.64 45 5)) 5555
Inn Inner er and and ou outer ter ca cable b s ((see see pp p .469) 99
Cogs on a a he heavi avily ly use u d b d bike ike ((see ee ee pp pp.66 67 7) 77
Bea B ringss in in open-beearing hu hubs b for r wear (see pp p pp.10 .10 .10001)
Bea Bearin ngs gs aand bearinng surfac fa es in headsets for we eaar
(seee se ppp.9 .903)
Gre Gr ase oppen- e bea bearin r g hubs (see pp.1001)
Gr Greaase headsets (see pp.903)
Handlebar tape and grips (see pp.947 7)) 7777
Gre Grease ase br brake ake bosses (see pp.1201)
Inn n Inner e and outer cables (see pp.1121 2155)) 5555
For ork s k stee teerer rer fo for c r crac racks, ks, bby removing the h e head eadset set
((se see pp.903)
Fork oil (see pp pp.1425) 55
Seals on forks and a shocks, as a par rt t of biannual service
by trained technician
EVERY MONTH EVERY SIX MONTHS
Troubleshooting
The symptoms of some of the things that
can go wrong with your bike are listed in
this troubleshooting chart. It explains why
a bike may be showing these symptoms and
then suggests a solution, referring you to
the pages where you will find a detailed
sequence of steps to guide you.
If you still find the problem difficult to
solve, consult the How They Work pages
for the specific part you are working on, so
th thhhat you can understand it better. However,
sooooomme meti timee m s the symptoms confronting you
ca ca ca cc n n n bbe be dddue ue to a malfunction other than
tth th thhhe oon onee e su suggg g ested in this charrt. t. If, a aft f er
co co co o ccco c ns nsul ulti t ng t tthhe h relevant pageess in tthe he bbook,
yo yo yo yyo yo yy u st stil ill i lll ca ca a cann nn nn nnn n ot oo solve ve tthe p problem em,, ask thhee
ex ex ex ex exx ex exxxx ex ex e pe pe pe pe pe pe ppe ppe pe pee pe pe ppp rt rt rt rt t rt rt rt rt rt rrt rrt ts s sss at at at atttt aa aa aa g gggggggggggggggoooo oo oooo dd bike ke ss sho ho hopp fo for r r he helpp.
PROBLEM
When you apply the front brake and push the bike
forward, the headset moves forwar ard r d rela ela elativ tiv tive t e t e to t o t o he
head tube.
You hear a sudden snappi ppi ppi p ng ng ng noi no noise com co e from m a whe whe whe eeel el e
while riding and/or the he he whe whe whe h eeel goes o out of truue.
There is side-to-side de de pl pl pp ay ay ay a of f a h hub on its ts axle, e or o wh heen en en
turning the axle iiin t n t n the he e hub yo you f u eel eithe th r a rrough gh ghnes ne es e s
or tight and loose se see sp sp spooots.
When pedalling ng g for for for forwward, the e casse ssette spins ins s, b , but ut ut the ere re is nnno n
drive to the bi biike. ke kee A AAlternatively, th he c e assset ett ett t e s sspins b bbefo e re ree
the drive is en nnngag gag gaged ed or there is s muc much s sside ide ide de-to -to-side de playy y innn
the cassette.
The brakes a are re e ha aard to apply, , an nd nd/o /or /or /o sl slugg uggish ish s to to too re relea lea lea eaase se se.
You have to pu pul p l l t the e bra bra bbb ke ke e e lev lev lever er a l a l a ong ong wa wwa wa ay b y b y b y b y efo efo efo e re r the he
brakes engagge. ee.
The two brake p p pads ads ads do not c cont ontact act act th the brak aking ing surf rface ce at
the same time.
The brake pads con on ontac tac tac ct the h brakin king s g sur urf urface ace ac wi witho t ut pul pu ppp ling
the lever too far, bu bu bu b t a t a t are re ineffe fecti tive at t slo s win wing t g t g he he e h bik bike. e.
The fork regularly reaches s the the the t li li l mit mit m of of its t travel l (botto tt ms ms out out out ut). ). )
On steep, smooth descents, the re ear ar aaa whe whe h l el el lif lifts ts und und und nder eer
braking.
The front wheel judders up and down when cornering.
A rear air/oil shock regularly reaches the limit of its travel
(bottoms out).
SOLVING COMMON PROBLEMS
S
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W
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E
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L
S
36
The chain will not shift onto a smaller cog
or chainring.
The chain will not shift onto a larger cog or it it shh shift ift ifts b s b s b but ut ut tt
does not run smoothly on it.
The chain shifts cleanly, but jumps on the cogs when
pressure is applied to the pedals.
The chain rubs on the inner then the outer side of the
front derailleur cage. On a bike with a single chainring,
the chain persistently falls off.
Troubleshooting
CAUSE SOLUTION
Either grit has become lodged inside the cable
housing or the cable lub ubric ric ricati ati ation on on has h dried up.
The cable has ss sttretched or the relev evant ant t d derailleur is
poorly adjustted ted.
Either the c e c chhain has a stiff link; or the cha hain in n orr
cogs, or boooth, h, are are wo worn; or a chainring ma mayy
be bent
The bottom b m b brac rac acket ket is is wo worn or or its itss ax ax axle le may may may bbbe be
bent.
Strip down the cables, flush the housings with degreaser,
clean the inners with degreaser, lubricate, and reassemble.
(See pp.301, 469) 99
Unc UUnclam lam lamp t p t p the he h cab cab able le at at the derailleur, pull through a any ny ny sla slack, ck, aand
ret re igh gh gh gg ten ten t . T TThen h sse et u t upp t p the he der der derail ail illeu leu leu le r. rr. ((See See ee pp ppp 552 .52 5 5) 55
Che Che Che h ck ck ck the ch ch ch chain for a stiff link and remov ii e it i t i t if f ff ound. d. . IIIf I nno ssstiff link
is is s s fou fou ou o nd nd, re re re reeplace the chain. If the problem perssist ist istss, s, rep rep rep e lacee t e tthhe he cogs.
If ff the th t ch ch chain aai ai ring is bent, replace it. (See pp.629 9))) 9999
If f the h t bo bbo bottom bracket is is a cartriidge dge ty typpe, replace it. it. t IIf it is a a hol hollow l -
axl x axle b e b bott ottt o om bracket, replace the e ccup and bea earing ing un un u it ts. If i it i t i t isss a BMX
bot bot bottom to bracket, it may be possible t e o replace ce ac th th he b e e earings i if t f they h are
wor worn, n or to replace the axle if it is bent nt. ( . ( (See See See S pp pp pp 7 .727 7))) 7777
The The The h he he d adset is loose e or or wor ornn.
A spoke may have brok okken. en
The hub bearings are wor worn or, r, r, r in in in the he ca ca ase se of of f tig tig tighht t
and loose spots, the axle iis b s b s beeent.
The T freehub body is w wwworn orn rn o .
Str St ip ip and inspect the headset. Repla place ce ce bea be be rings if worn, regrease, and
rea reasse se ss mbl m e. ee. Ins In Inspec pect the cups aand nd races; if they are worn you should
let let a a goo goood b d b d bik ik ike h sh shop op rep rep replac lac lac ace t e t e t e the he he whole headset. (See pp.903)
RRe Replac ace t the he hhe spokke and and d tr tr true ue ue u the he the wh wh wheel eel e ee . ( . ( . ( (See SS pp.1067) 77
Rep Replac ac ce t e t e he e bearinggs oor thee ax a le. (See ee pp pp pp p .10 .10 .1001 0 01)))))
Rep Re lac ac l e t e he he freehub b b body ody. ( . (See See pp pp p .10 .1001 01 1))
Gri Gr rit a t a t and nd dir dirt i t is i s i insi nside de th the t cablee ho ho ho h usi using or the
lub bbricati tioon on on the the in inner cable es h s h has s dried up.
Th The he h p pa p ds are re wwearing down o or t r the e cable has h slipped
thr thrrooug o h the cla cla cl mp bolt.
You Yo r b r b bra rak a es es are are not centeredd.
The Th rre is grease on the pads ds, f , ore oreeign ignn g ob objec jects ts are ar
emb em edded in them, or they are re e wea wwearring u unev nevenly. You You
mmay even need a different comp mp mp pooun ound o d o of b ff rak r e pad. d
Strip i dow down t n he ca cables, f , flus lush the housings, g an and c d clea ean t n the he he he inn inn nner er er cables
withh degr eg eas aser, lubbricat at te b e e oth, and reassemble. e. (((See See pp.30 30 301, 1, 1 11 11 111 1 22215) 55
If the he pads aree not t too o o wwor ww n, tak t e up the ext extra ra a tra tra ravel vel by by un un n u cla cla l mp mp pi p ng
tthe br brake akes, pulli ling t g he e cab aable le le e thr thr h ough t h the cla clamp, mp, an a d tighte ten ten t ing ing n . I . I If
th the pa pads ds are are a wo worn, n, n, re re repla pla pla ace ce ce the th m. (See pp.11 11023, 12635)) 55
Fol ollow low th th he p e p e p proc ro edu dures res res res fo for c r entering the type pe of f bbrakes kes on on
your b bike ike ( . ( ((SSee See pp pp p 1 .11 .1 02 0 3, 3, 128 1 35) 55
Rub th the p e ads dss wi wi w tth eme eme me m ry ry y ccloth. Remove f ffore reign ign bo b dies wiith h t
nee needle dle--nose pl plieers. Fit tt new nn pads if ff they y are worn unev evenl enly. y. y See See eek k
advice from m a b a bike shop op op o reg reg r arding di diiffe ffe f rent pad compounnds nds n .
(See pp.1102 0223, 3, 3, 12635 35 335)) 5555
With air/oil forks, not enough air r i r i is i s s i s n t n t the he h system.
With coil/oil forks, too light a spring ing ng i is is fi fi fitted.
The front of the bike is diving under b r b r b bra rak raking ng ng ng
because the fork is not stiff enough.
The forks rebound is set too fast.
Insufficient air in the shock, or too much dampi ping, ng, ng ng
means that the shock is not returning from each
compression quickly enough.
Pump i in m n ore ore re air. Rep R lac lacee e springs ngs wi w th th heavie vie vvi r-duty sp spprin rin ri gs. gs. gs
(See pp.1 11403 033)
Pum Pump i i p in a n air ir, or o incre reease ase ase s p ppreload, acccordin in ddd g to the typ typ typ y e o e o e of f f f f fork ooo
on on your b biike. ( (See pp.14 14 14 403)
UUse th the rrele elevan antt adjusster to redu duce c the the s speed edd of of of f th th t e f e f e or or orks rebound.
((See pp pp.14 .1 1 033))
Set Set Set up up u th tt e sag g on the sh ss ock ag again. I . I If t f t f t the he he pro pro p oble ble bleemmm continues, use
the the the da da dampi mpi mpi p ng ng g adj ad ustmennnt to ssspee pee pee peed u d u d u d p t p t p t p he e ee act action io ion of the shock.
((See See ee pp pp pp 1 .15 .1501 01 0 ))
37
Regularly check all the brake pads for uneven
wear. This is a sign that they are not contacting
the braking surface evenly. The effectiveness of
your brakes is compromised because not all the
pads surface is in use. Install new pads and adjust
your brakes correctly (see pp.11823).
Regularly check for worn or missing teeth on a
chainring or cog. The chain can jump when you
apply pressure to the pedals, especially if you are
out of the saddle, and you may be pitched
forward and crash. Replace the chainring or cog
as soon as you see this sign (see pp.669). 99
38
The more you ride your bike, the quicker the
various moving parts, particularly tires and
brake pads, will wear away. Replacing the
parts as soon as they become worn not only
keeps the bike running smoothly but also
reduces the chances of an accident. You will
save money, too, since worn parts have the
effect of wearing out other parts.
As you run through your safety checks (see
pp.323), look for worn teeth on cogs and
chainrings, worn brake pads, split or frayed
cables, worn wheel rims, bulging or split
tires, and worn tire treads. If you spot
any danger signs, take action as soon as
you can. You must replace a damaged
part before you next ride your bike.
Spotting danger signs
Cogs and chainrings Brakes
Cables
Rims and tires
Cogs
Chainrings
Brakes
Worn teeth Worn brake pads
Checking for danger
Regularly check the tires,
rims, brakes, chainrings,
cables, and cogs so that
you can spot signs of wear
as early as possible.
Spotting danger signs
Check the whole circumference of both tires
for bulges in the tread or the walls. Tires with
bulges or distortions are very likely to blow out
if you ride on them. If you see any of these signs,
replace the tire (see pp.1045). 55
Check all cables and cable housings for signs of
splitting and fraying. Frayed inner cables can snap,
leaving you without gears, which is inconvenient,
or without brakes, which is dangerous. Change the
cable before you ride again (see pp.469, 11215). 55
Worn or split housings reduce the effectiveness of
your brakes and allow dirt to get in and clog the
cables. Change the housing as soon as you can.
Look for evidence of deep scoring on the rims
of each of your bikes wheels. Rim brakes will
gradually wear out the rims, especially if you ride
off-road or in winter. Eventually, the rims will fail
and you could crash. Cracks around the nipples of
the spokes where they join the rim are a danger
sign, too. Replace the rim if you see these signs.
Check each tire for splits or cuts in the tread or
side walls. A large split means that the internal
fabric of the tire is damaged, so the tire is likely
to blow out. Smaller splits and cuts will let sharp
objects penetrate the tire, causing at least a
puncture and possibly a rapid blowout. Replace
the tire if you see any splits or cuts (see pp.1045). 55
39
Cables
Look closely at the tread of both tires for signs
of wear. If the tread is worn, the tire has lost
structural strength and can break down and
distort or bulge. The result can be a blowout
during the course of a single ride. A tire that has
been skidded and lost enough rubber to develop
a flat spot can also be dangerous. Replace the tire
if you see either sign (see pp.1045). 5
Rims and tires
Split brake housing
Frayed gear housing
Split tire Worn tread
Worn rim
Split or frayed cables
Bulging tire
Preparing for wet weather
Keep water out of the point where the seat pin
enters the frame. Mark this junction and remove
the pin. Pull a piece of narrow road-bike inner tube
over the frame. Insert the pin through the tube to
the mark and tie-wrap the tube to secure it.
40
These steps will help you to prepare a bike
for a rainy winter, a particularly wet climate,
or if most of your riding is done off-road.
The mud, sand, and water that your wheels
spray up into every part of the bike combine
to form a damaging, grinding paste. Salt, if
used to treat roads where ice is likely to
occur, will quickly corrode your bike. Regular
cleaning and lubricating helps with
protection, but try to stop the mud and
salt from reaching the delicate parts
of the bike in the first place. The overall
aim when protecting a bike in wet weather
is to prevent water from reaching the
interior parts and washing the lubricant
off the exposed parts.
Place a cover over the headset to provide
protection. You can fit a protector to the headset
without removing any components by simply
fastening the velcro.
Shielding exposed components
Sealing the seat post collar Sealing the headset
Derailleur
Pedal
Headset
Seat post
collar
Mudguard
Chain
Protecting a bike
Fit mudguards, insert
seals, and lubricate
the exposed parts to
protect a bike from
wet conditions.
Preparing for wet weather
Lubricate and clean your chain as often as
you do in summer and after every wet ride.
Apply the same light lubricant that you use in
the summer and then apply a heavier oil, which
will not wash off as easily. Only coat the rollers
and insides of each link with heavier oil because
it attracts more dirt.
41
Fitting mudguards
Fasten a mudguard to the seat pin and you will
block much of the spray from the back wheel.
For the front wheel, fit a guard that clips onto the
frame and is secured in place with tie-wraps. Full
mudguards, which attach to the fork and rear
dropout, give almost full protection for on-road
biking but get clogged up off-road.
Dribble oil on to the pivots around which the
front and rear derailleurs move. Use a heavier, wet
oil rather than the oil you would normally apply
during the summer. Every time you dribble oil like
this, first flush out the old oil by dribbling some
degreaser onto the pivots and letting it sink in for
a few minutes.
Apply heavier, wet oil to lubricate the retention
mechanism of clipless pedals after degreasing all
the moving parts. The heavier oil will not wash off
as easily as dry oil. Regularly clean off old oil with
degreaser and apply new oil in order to prevent
the accumulation of grit and the consequent
increase in pedal wear.
Cleaning and lubricating derailleurs
Cleaning and lubricating
pedals
Weatherproofing the drivetrain
Cleaning and lubricating the chain
The drivetrain is the
heart of your bike. Fine-
tune and regularly service
the system to ensure that
the gear-shifters, chain,
crankset, cassette, and
derailleurs work together
in perfect harmony.
MAI MAI M NTA NTAA TAINI INI IN NG N YOUR DRIVETRAIN CABLES AN AND SSHIF HIFTER TERSS
CABLEESS AANDD SSHHIIFFTTEERRSS
Cabl les e and shift ter e s en enab able le tthe he rrid ider er tt to o oo op op op op o er er er er erat t at at at teee e e th th thhe e ee ge ge eeeeeaar aa s. s. s. CCCCCCCab ab ab ab aaab able le lle eess s s s
are under cons nsta tant nt tension on a and nd nee edd to to t bbbbbe ee e e rrrrrep ep ep eeplla la lla aace ce ceddddddddd rrrr rrrrrrr eg eg g eg g eg eg eg guuul u ar ar ar arlly ly ly ly ly y rrrrrrrr
and kept t wwel ell l lubr bric cat at dd ed. . Th Th They e must st t aals ls so o be be bee iiins ns s n pe pe peeecct ct c ed d ed ed of of f ofte te te te eennnnnn
and repl plac aceed if f th they ey ey ssho h w signs ss of of of f weea ear. r. SShift t fteer er e ss ss re eqqu qu uir ir ir rrreee
on nly ly oocccasional l lubrication of f their ir iinn nner w wor or r o kking ng gs. s. .
Howw tthheeyy wwooorrrkk
AAn inn nner cab a le conneect cts s th thhhhe eee ge ge gge g ar aa -sshi i hift ft ft ll lev ev e er er er t ttttoo ooo
thh the e deraille le l ur, an nd d al alllo lows wssss ttt thee he h rr rid id ider eer e t ttt to oo o o ch ch ch chaan an annge ge ggge gge
ge gear ars. s MMov ovin in ng g tthhheee ge geeeeear ar ar aar ar-s -s -sshhi hi hifttttt lllev ever er er e ccau au au ause se se se ees sssssss th th th th th th ttthheeeeeeeee
fr fronn o tt de ddde dera ra rail il ille le l ur ur ur t tto oo sh sh ss if if if if ftttt t th th th th t e ee ch ch chai ai i ai ai ainnn fr fr fr ffrom ommmm ooonne
ch ch ch hai ai ainr nr nr rin in inggg g to to tto a aaano no no nno no oth th th thh tt er er er er eer, , , or or orr or or or orr or tttt tt ttthe he hhe hhe he he rr rrrreea ea eea e rr rr de de de de e de dd ra rrail il illeeeur r ur ur ur u
tooooo to s sss sssshi hi hi hi hi hi i hift ft ft ft ft ft ft ft tttttt tthe he he he he he he he he eee cccccc ccha ha ha ha ha ha hain in in in in in in in n ffffff fffro ro ro ro ro rommm m mmm on on n on n on ooneee ee eee e co co co co o co co ccccc g g g gggggggg to tto to tto to a aaanno no no nno no noth th th th tth t er er er err....
Pu Pu Puu Pu Pu Puuull ll l ll ll l ll ll l in in in in in in in in in nggg g gg g ggg th th th th th tthhheee e eeee ge ge ge ge ge gee ge ge ge ge g ar ar ar ar ar ar ar ar ar ar ar ar ccccc cccab ab ab ab ab aaaabbble le le le le le le ssss ss shi hi i hi hi hi hift ft ft ft ftt fftt ft ft ffttttssss sssss s ss th th th th th hhh th th th th th t e ee e eeeeee eeee ch ch ch ch ch h ch ch ch ch cch ch haii ai ai ai ai ai ai ai ai ai aaaa n nnnn nn nnnnn nnn
fr fr fr fr from om omm om om omm o aaaaaaaaaa ss sssssssma ma ma ma ma ma maa ma ma maa m ll ll ll ll ll ll ll ll l ll ll ller er er er eer er eer er ee tttt tt tt tto o oo ooo o o a a aaaa a aa la la la la lllarg rg rg rg rg rrg rg rgg rgggggggger eer err eerrr err err c cc cccccc ccha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha hha ha ha hha haa hain in in in in in in innnnn in in in in in inriii ri ri rri ri ri ri rri rri ri rriii rri rrrr ng nng ngg ng ng ng ng nng ngg nng ngg ng ngg ng nnngggg
or or orrr or oor or orrr o c cccccc ccog og og og oog og og og g oog og og ggg;;;;;;; ; ; ;;;; ; ; re rrre rre rre re rr le le le le le le le eeas as s as as as as aaas ssiin in in iiin in in ing g gg g gg th th thh thh th th theee ee ee ee e ge gge ge ge ge ge ge ge ge ge geee gee ggeee ggg ar ar arrrr ar arr ar ar aar ar ar ar ar aar aarr cc ccc cc ccccc cccccccab ab abbb ab ab ab ab ab ab ab abb ab ab abb aaaab ab a le lle le le le le ee le le le le eee le le le le le ee le le lee le
sh sh sh shhif if ifff ifts ts ts ts tss ttt tthe he he he e he hhe he he he ccc cc cccha ha haaa ha ha hha ha haaain in inn iin iin in inn inn innn i ff fffffffff fffro roo ro roo ro ro ro ro ro ro r mmmmm mmmmmmmmmmmm aa a a a aa a a aaa la la la la la la la llaarg rg rg rg rg rg rg rgg rg rggg rgggger er er er er er er eeeer er eer errr
to to too to a aaaa sss sss smma mma ma ma ma ma ma ma ma ma mma ma aall ll ll l ll ll lll ll ll ll l ll ll ll lll ller er er er er er rrr er r eer er eer r er er r c ccccc ccccc cha ha ha ha ha haaaa ha ha haa haain in in in in n iin in in in inrri ri ri rri ri riii rii ri ri r ng ng nnng ng ng ng ng ng nng ng ngggggg oo oooo oooooor r rr r rr rrrrrr
co co co co oo co oog. g. g. gg. gg TTTT TTTTThhe he hhhe he he ee he h ll ll lllllll lef ef f ef ef f ef ef ef ef ef f ef f ef f ef ef ef f ef ef f eft- tt- tttttttt- ttt- t-- t- t- t- t-- t- t- t hhhhha hha hhha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha aa ha ha aa ha ha ha ha ha ha ha hha hha aa ha ha ha a ddd nd ndd nd nd nd nd nd nd nd nd nnnd nd nd nd ndd nd nnd nd nnd nd nnnd nd nd nd nd nnn
sh sh shhhhh shh sh sh sh shhh sshh sh sh sh s if if if if if if if if if if iif if f if f iif ftte te te te te te te tte te e te ee te e te tee te eee te e t r rrrr rrr rrrrrrrrr co co co co co cco ccooo co coont nt nt nt t nt nt nt nt nt nt nt tt nt nt tt nnnt ttro oo ro ro ro ro o ro ro ro ro oo ro rro rolls lls ls ls ls llls lls ls ls lls ls ls ssssss llls s tt ttt tt ttt ttttthe hhe he he e hhe he hhhhhe he he he hhhhe he f fffffff fffffffffff ffffro roo ro ro ro ro ro roo rro ro rooo rro ro ro ro ro rro rroo ront nt nt nt nt nt nt t nnt nt nt nnt nt nt nt nnt nnn
de de ddeera ra ra r il il iil iilleeur uur; t t ; t ttttt ; t ttt ; t tt ; the he hhhe e he he he he e hhe rrrrrrrrrrr rr riiig ig ig igg ig ggg ig g ig ig ig g ig ig gg ig ig igght ht ht ht ht ht ht ht ht ht ht ht hhht t hhht ht ht t ht ht ht ht tt ht t-h -h -h -h -hhh -h -hhhhh -hhhhhh -----h -hhhhhhhhan an an an an an aaan an an an an an annnnnnnnnnn an an an nn an n aan andddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddd
shh sh sh s if f ifte tter rr co co co ontt nt n ro ro rols ls ls t ttthe he he ee
reeear ar ar a d ddder er erai ai a ll lleu eu eur. r. r
Co Co Con Con C tro tr rolli lli lling ng nng ng ng the ee the he he the e ge ge gge ge ge g ge gear ars ars ars aaars rss ars rs
TTh The he he ccca ca able ble le le le bles s a ss a s a s aand d nd d nd d nd d shi shi shi ssh s iifte te te fte fte ft fte ee fte fte errs rs rsss rrss rss rssss
on on n on a b a b a b b a bb a ike ike ike ik kee ke ke aal all allow low low ow low ow low th th th th th th th th th th th thh th he r e r e r e r e r eee r ee r e r e r e rride ide id ide ide ide ide ide ide ide ide de de idde i rrrrrrrrr
to to to too eff efff eff ef eff eff e ort ort oor ort oortles es es lesss e l sl sly sly sly sl sly sly y sly sly y co co co co co co cco co co cco cco c ntr ntr ntr ntr ntr ntr ntr r ntr rr trr nnt nt ol ol ol ol ol ol oool ol ool l
th the e th th tthe the the the ge ge ge ge ee ggee ggg ar ar aar ar ar r ar r ar a ssys sys sy sys y sysss ssys sys sys sys sys sys sys y tem tem tem tem em emmm tem te te t mmmm tem temmm temmmmmm.......
REAR DERAILLEUR CABLE BLE BLE BLE LE BLE BLE LE LE LE LE LE LE BLE LE LE LLE E
b Cab Cab Ca le le le cla l cla c mp mp m
Att Att Attttach ach h ac aa es es ess the the the ca ca cc ble ble ble le to to to to to to th th t ee
rea rea rear d r d r dera era eraill ill l eur eur r
Rea Rea Rea Rea e r d r d r dera era eraill ill illeur eur eur
Mov Mov Mov o es es s es the the the ch ch ch chain ain ain fr fr from om om one one oone ne
cog cog cog cog oo to t an an anoth oth other er er
44
Fro Fro Fro Fro Fr nt nt nt nt der der rail ail ail ail a lleu leu leu leurrr
Mov Mov Mov Mov oves es es es s the the h th chh ch chain ain ain i
fro fro fro fro fr m o m o m one ne ne e cha cha ha hainr inring iing n
to to o to ano ano ano othe th the ttt err
A clamp connects the cable to
the rear derailleur. When the
shifftee te te te te te te teeerrrrrrrrrrr is iss is is is is is is is is is iss pppppppppp pus us us us us us us us us us us ushe he he he he he he he he he he hed, d, d, d, d, d, d, d, d, d, d, dd, ttttttttttttthe he he he he he he he he he he he e cccccc ccab ab ab ab ab ab ab ab ab b ab ab abllllle le le le le le lee
pulls the rear derai iiiiiiiiill ll ll l ll ll ll ll ll ll lleu eu eu eu eu eu eu eu eu eu eu eu euuuurrrrrrrrr rr r in in in in in iiinnnwaa wwwww rd rdd,,
moving the chain from a
smaller to a larger cog. When
the shifter releases the cable
tension, the springs on the
rear derailleur pull the jockey
pulleys, and the chain, back
to a smaller cog.
How they work
Gear-shift levers are often
combined with the brake levers
on the handlebar. On this
Shimano shifter, the brake lever
also acts as a shift lever. When
the rider pushes the brake lever
inward with the fingers, the
control cable attached to it is
pulled and a ratchet mechanism
is lifted. One click of this
mechanism equals one shift of
the front or rear derailleur,
which moves the chain across
the chainring or cogs. The
ratchet mechanism then holds
the cable in its new position.
When the rider pushes the inner
shift lever inward, the ratchet
mechanisms hold is released and
the pull on the cable ceases.
COMBINED BRAKE LEVER/GEAR-SHIFT LEVER ANATOMY
Ratchet
mechanism
Holds the
cable
Brake lever
Pulls the cable
Inner shift lever
Releases the cable
Cable housing
Counteracts
the cable pull
Cable inner
Controls derailleur
Lever hood
Attaches the levers to the handlebar
Cable
Connects
the lever to
the rear
derailleur
45
SHIFTING GEAR
In this Campagnolo
shifter, the rider
pushes the inner
shift lever to pull the
cable and move the
derailleur. When the
rider presses a lever
on the inner side of
the lever hood, the
cable is released
and the derailleur
moves back.
Gear-shift lever
Pulls and releases
the gear cable
US_044-045-cables_shifters.qxd 11/2/08 12:26 pm Page 45 (TEXT BLACK plate)
STEP LOCATOR
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MAINTAINING YOUR TRANSMISSION CABLES AND SHIFTERS 46
Drop handlebar
gear cables
Keeping gear cables clean and lubricated,
and replacing them if they fray, is very
important for smooth shifting. Change
them as a matter of course at least once a
year, or more often if you are a heavy user.
Lubrication reduces the effects of friction
between the inner cable and the cable
housing, and helps to keep out water and
grit. If the gears become difficult to shift to
a different chainring or cog, the cable is
probably dry and needs lubrication.
These steps show how to fit a new gear
cable to a SRAM shifter. Fitting cables to
gear shifters made by other manufacturers,
such as Shimano and Campagnolo, will be
slightly different, but the order of each task
in the overall sequence is generally the same.
Replacing a
SRAM gear cable
Insert the new, lubricated cable into the
same hole in the shifter that the old cable
emerged from, pushing until you see it emerge
from behind the lever hood.
Pull the new cable all the way through the

shifter until the nipple fits snugly in place.
44444444444444444444444444444444444444444
Use the shifter to move the chain to the
smallest sprocket if you are fitting a new
rear-derailleur gear cable, or to the smallest
chainring for a new front-derailleur gear cable.
To do this with Shimano and SRAM shifters,

move the inner shift lever toward the center
line of the bike.
To do this with Campagnolo shifters, push

down on the lever situated on the inner side
of the lever hoods.
111111111111111111111111111111111111
Toolbox
Long-nosed pliers
Cable cutters
Oil
Parts of gear-shift units
SRAM shifter
Gear-shift lever
111111111111111111111111111111111111 3333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333 444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444
Rubber brake
hood cover
Brake lever
Drop handlebar gear cables 47
Dribble a little oil into the cable outers
and insert the cable through the outers.
Make sure they are firmly seated in the cable guides
on the frame. If you are fitting new outers, cut
them to the same length as the ones they replace.
Ensure metal ferrules are fitted to both ends of

each outer.
555555555555555555555555555555555555555555
Pull the cable through all the outers and
cable guides, and reconnect it to the
derailleur by tightening the cable clamp bolt.
Refasten the cable so that it is in exactly the

same position as it was when you unfastened the
clamp bolt in Step 2.
Ensure that you pull the cable tight through

the clamp bolt before you fasten it.
66666666666666666666666666666666666666666666
Undo the cable clamp bolt on the
derailleur, then release the old cable and
push it through the guidance boss on the derailleur.
Note the path by which the cable enters the

derailleur and how it sits in the cable clamp. You
must replicate this with the new cable.
If the cable is frayed, cut off the frayed end

with a pair of cable cutters, to allow it to pass
through the guidance boss and the outer cables.
222222222222222222222222222222222222222222
Remove the old cable from a SRAM or
Campagnolo shifter by rolling the rubber
lever-hood cover forward. Push the cable from
behind the shifter and watch where the cable nipple
emerges from the side of the shifter hood body.
For Shimano shifters the cable emerges from

under the hood cover without rolling it forward.
Pull the old cable from the shifter by its nipple.

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STEP LOCATOR
444444444444444444444444444444444444444
MAINTAINING YOUR TRANSMISSION CABLES AND SHIFTERS 48
Straight handlebar
gear cables
Looking after and replacing the gear cables
on a mountain bike is very similar to a road
bike. However, mountain bikes are often
subjected to harsher conditions than road
bikes, as they are often ridden through dirt
and mud, so the cables must be replaced
and lubricated more regularly.
There are three main kinds of straight
handlebar shifter: the Shimano Rapidfire,
the Shimano Dual Control, and the SRAM.
Replacing a gear cable is similar for them all.
Replacing a
Rapidfire gear cable
Remove the old cable with long-nosed
pliers and put the shifter in the smallest
sprocket or chainring position.
Insert the end of the new, lubricated cable

into the hole where the cable nipple sits inside
the shifter.
Check the route of your existing cable and

follow the route when fitting a new cable in Step 4.
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Cut both the cable and cable outers with
your cable cutters to the same length as the
old ones you have removed. Make the outers long
enough to allow the cable to travel freely inside.
Dribble a drop of oil down each cable outer.
Fit a ferrule to the end of each cable outer to

ensure that it fits tightly into the frames cable
guides (see pp.267). 77
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Toolbox
5mm Allen key
Long-nosed pliers
Cable cutters
Cable pullers
Tweezers
Parts of gear-shift units
Gear-shift levers
Handlebar clamp
Brake lever body
Shifter body
111111111111111111111111111111111111 22222222222222222222222222222222222222222 3333333333333333333333333333333333333333333
111111111111111111111111111111111111111 1111111111111111111111111111111111111
Gear
indicator
Ring clamp
Barrel adjuster
Gear-shift
levers
Shifter cover
Shimano
Rapidfire
Shimano
Dual Control
SRAM shifter
Star nut
Brake/gear-shift lever
Gear-shift
lever
Cable port
Barrel adjuster
Straight handlebar gear cables 49
Replacing a
SRAM gear cable
Push the cable into the hole until its end
shows through the barrel adjuster on the
outside of the shifter body.
Thread the cable through the first length of

lubricated cable outer.
222222222222222222222222222222222222222222
Replacing a
Dual Control gear cable
Thread the inner cable through each
length of outer cable.
For the rear derailleur, unscrew the barrel

adjuster to about half its range and then insert
the inner cable. For the front derailleur, insert
the cable into the clamp.
Pull hard with your cable pullers and tighten

the cable clamp. Cut off any excess cable.
444444444444444444444444444444444444444444
For the rear cable, put the shifter into the
smallest sprocket. For the front cable, put
the front shifter into the smallest chainring.
Open the cable port to reveal the old cable inside

the shifter, and remove it with long-nosed pliers.
Push the cable into the cable port until the

cable nipple sits in the cradle inside the body.
Follow Step 4 of Replacing a Rapidfire gear cable.

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For the rear cable, put the shifter into the
smallest sprocket. For the front cable, put
the front shifter into the smallest chainring.
Remove the old cable from the derailleur, then undo
the star nut that holds the shifter cover in place.
Grab the cable nipple with tweezers and remove

it. Insert a new one through the barrel adjuster and
seat the nipple into position. Pass the cable through
the outers and reattach it to the derailleur.
11111111111111111111111111111111111111111111
MAINTAINING YOURR DRIV RIVETRRAIN AIN FRO FR NT ANDD RE R AR AR DER ERAIL AILLEU LEURS RS
FRONT AAANND REEAARR DDEERRAAIILLLLEEUUUUUUUUUUURRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
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but only if the e tr trav avel el oof th the deraille leur u s s is is s set et u uup p p cco co co co co ccco corr rr rr rr rr rr rreeec ec ec ec eee ttl tl tl tl tl tl ttl tlyy. y. yy. y. y. D DDDDDDDD Der er er r e ai ai ai iiiiiii aai aillllll lll ll ll eu eu eurrrrrr
pivots and jocke keyy pu pull lleys mmust bbe e ch ch c ec ecke kedd fo fo or r rr rr we we we we we we eee we ee w ar aar ar ar r ar ar ar ar aaaaar aa a aaaaaa aaaaand nd nd nddd nd lub ub bbbb ubri ri ri rri ri i r ccca aaaaaaa ca ccaaaaaaaaatte te tte ttt d. d. d. d. T TTTTTTTThhhhhhhhhe he he he e hhe hhe hhe he hhhhhhhhe hee
front derailleur r mmus st be properly al alig ig igne nedd wi wi iith th thh th thh ttth ttttttthhhe he he hee hhhee he h ccccccha ha ha ha ha ha ain in nnrrrri ri ring g ng g n s. ss. ssss. s. ss. s. s
How theeyyy wwoorkk
The front and rearr dderaailleurs cha hang nge e th thee ge ge g aars. T Toooo
change up a gear, thhe sh s ifter r is i useed d to to pp pul ull on t ttthhe he he ee ccc cc cccab ab aaaab ab ab ble le le eeee,,
which causes the fro ront t n dderailleur r to to p pus ush h th th heee h ch chai ai iiiinnn nnn nn nnn fr fr fr fr fr frr fr frommmmmmmmm
a smaller to a largeer chainring g or tthe hee he rrrreea ea earrr r de deraille eeeuuur uur ur ur uuur ttttt tttto
push the chain from m a a sm smal a ler tooo aaa llar arge ge gerrr co co co og. g. g. gg TTTTTooo o oo ch ch ch ch ch cch ch ch h cccc aan an a gggggge ge gee gge gggg
down a gear, the c cab abllee iiss re rele eas ased ed, ca causiin ing gg g tth h th t e e sp spppppppppprrrrri ri ri rri rr nnnnnnnng ng nnnnngss s s iin in inn in in iii
both derailleurs to mo move ve tthe he cchhain t to a smal l al alle e le eerrr rr cch ch ch hhhhh ch hh ch ch ccc aaaaaai i aaai iiinnriiinn in nnnn ii ggggg
or cog. Each derailleur mo move vess arounnd a p piv vvot ot ot oot ppoi oiinnnt nt nt nnt nt ttt nt nt nn ......
Adjusting screws ensure thhat t tthe he he derraai ai aai aill lleu eurs s rs rs s dd do nnnno no no oo no noo no nn tttt t t t t t pu pu puuu pusssssh sh ssh sh ssh sh s
the chain beyond the largest st c cchha hain inri riing ng ggg ooor r co coggg, g, oo oorrrr rr rrrrrr pppppppu pu uuuu ppppp ll ll ll ll ll lll iiiiiiiiiitttttttttttt
beyond the smallest. This s rang ngge e is is is cccall allle le lee leddd d thh thhee e dde dde deeraaaaa raaaaiiiil l iii lle le eeeee lle llle lllle le e lleeuuuur ur ur ur rrr ur r uuur urrrr uurs s ssss sss ss sssss
travel. Once its travel is set et uu up, p, p, p, ppprovide ed th hee ca cca a cabl bl bl bleeeeeeeeeee
tension is sufficient, t the he d deer eerai ai a ll lll lleu eeeur wi will m makkee e e a aa a a si si si ss nnnnng ggggg ng gggggg nnngleeeeeeee lle llle lle l ,,,
clean gear-shift for eveery ry cclii k ck ck ck oooof f f f thhhee shh s if iffte tee te terrr.
Wor Wor Wor W kin kin kin nnng w g w g w ggg with ith ith h th th thh the s ee s e s e shif hif hif hifter ter ter ter ersssss
The The The e fr fr ff ont ont an an and r d r rear ea ear a de de de de derai rai rai rai raille lle ll lle l eurs urs urs urs urs urs
wor wor wo k i k i k in h n h nn arm m arm m arm ar ony ony ony onn onny wi with hh th the the the e
sh shi hi hifte fte fte f rs rs rs s to to o to pro pro pro o pr vid vidd vid vide e e e e easy asy asy, q , q q , q , q quic uic uick, k
and and dd ac ac a aaccur cur cur curate ate te at ge ge gear- ar- arrr shi shi sh fts fts ts f s
whe whe hee wh nev ev ever er tthe the he e ri rrider derr ne ne nneed eds d eds ed th th th h them. em. m. em em
To change gears, two jockey y pu pulley ys tr transf ssfer er tthe e cha ha aaiin nn in in o onnt nt nn o o
a different cog. They mo ove ve inn th the e sa same me p pplla la la anne ne ne aa ass s th the e cch hhai ai ai aa nnnn
and are spring-loaded to p pre resserv rvee tthee te tens sioo io ion iiin in tthe he c cccha ha a ha aaain in nn..
Two derailleur plates enable le tthe e jockkey y pu pull l ey eys to c chha h nng nge ge ge geear ar a
upward, while the plate spri ring g eena abl bles the he h joc oc ooo ke key y y pu pulll lley eys s
to change gear downward. d.
REAR DERAILLEUR AN NATO ATOMY
Cab Cab Ca Cab aa CCa le lle lee le leeee leeeeee
Pus Pus Pus Pu Pus Pu Pu Pus PPPPPu P hes he es hes hes es es s hes es es s es sss e h aan an nnn an anddddddd
pul pul pul ul pul ul ul pul pu pul pu pu pu pu p l pu puul p ll pp lllls ls ls lls s ls s ls rea rea ea ea aaaaa reea ea a rea rea aaaa reea a rr aarrrrrr
der der der err de der er de er eer dde eraail ail ail aill ail aaaail ail ail aaaai leu leu le leu lleu leuuuu leuuuuuuurrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
Re Rea Rea Rea ea aaaaa Reaa R rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
dder de der er der r der der rr der rail ail ail ail aai ai ail ail ail illl ail ai aail aaai iil i ai ill ai ii le leu leu u le le l u le le eurrrr
Mo Mov Mo ovv ovvvvvvv Mo Mo Mov ov ovvvvvv oovv Mo Mov ovv oovvvvvees ees ees ees ssssss ees ees s es eeees es eeees s ees s ch cha cha cha cha haaain in in in iin in in
fro fro ro fro fro fro froo ro f oom o m o m o m o m mmmmm m m o m o m m o m o ooo m o ooooo mmm m m o oo mmmmmmm o mmmmmm o oooooonnne e nne ne ne ne n cog og oggg cog ogg cog cog co co og o ccogg c g
ttto to too o o o tttttoooo tto too o ano ano ano ano an an ann anno o no oo ano an annno anno no ooo nno nno an aan an ano an an anno no nno anoth th th th the he he he e he the th tthhe tthhh th ttth th tth th tttth therrrrr
Joc Joc Jockey ke ke key pu puuulle e ll y spri pring gg
Pre Pre Pre Pr ser ser s ves th the
ten tensio on i n in t n the h cha chain
Joc Joc Jo Jo key ey pu pu pull lle lleyy
Pul PPul Pu P ls ls an and d pu puushe she she shess
the the ch chai ain
Joc J key ey ey pu pu pu pu p lle ey c y cage age age e
Hol Hol Hol Ho ds s ds ds th the he ee jo j cke ck ke kk yy
pul u ley llle s
Cable clamp
Attaches cable to
derailleur plates
Cable
Pulls derailleur plates Pulls derailleur plates
plat tee Der erail aillleur
cable puull ll to to to to the the t Tra Transf nsfers eers c
ll lle eeyys yy joc jockey k pull ll
Pla Plate spr spring i
Pulls der der dee ailleu leur b back ac
as cab able le is is is rel rel leas ea ed ed
High and low
adjusters
Limit travel of
the derailleur
50
Whe Whe enn p n p n ulled, the c cccaaabl a e m mmmmmove ove ove ove o s s s s the he e ee e ooouter er arm arm, w which acts as a
lev evveer r on on a pivot p poooin oin o t to p o p p o p oo p pus ush sh sh h u th theee e e e front deraill i leur e ca c ge ge g awa awa w y
fr fro fr f m t the he bike. Thi hisss m s oveess t s t s the hhe he e cha ha aain fro fr m a small ller er to o aaa
lllar llar la la ger ge g ch ch cc ain ainrin ri g. g. WWhe W n t tthhhhe he e ccca cable e e e e is relleased, ed, a a sp pr sp ing ng on on th th theee
der d ailleurs inner aa aar r aarm p m p m p m uuull lls tt s hhhe ca ca cag cage b e b e ack ac to towar rd t d t d he he bik b e. e. e
FRO FR FR FRO FF NT T NT T T DER DERAILLLLLEU LEU L R R A R A AAAANAT NAT NA NA AT N OOOMY MY OO
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plates esss t ttto oo sswiin i g g in in in iii wa waard rd d rd r ooonn fo fo foooouuuuur ur uu p ppiv iv i ot ot ot pp pppoi oi oi o nts, c cccau au au uusi ss ng g t the he he he he e he he he he he he he ee he e he he hhe e hhh
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Fro Fro Fro Fro Fro Fro Fro ro Frooo Fro FFr Fr Fro r Fro rooont nt nt nt nt nt nt nnnt nt tt nt nt der dddder der der de der der der der der der r dee dd aaail ai ail ail ail ail aaai ail aaail ail ail aaaaa leu leu leu eu leu eu leu leu eu ee leu eu eu eu eurrrrrrrrr
Tra Tra Tra Tra Tra Tra Tra Tr TTra Transf nsf f nsf nsf nsf f nsf nsf nsf nsf nsf nsf nsf nsf ff nsf sf nsf ns eers ers ers ers ers ers ers eers eer e th th th th th th th th thhh th th th th th tth tt eeeeeeeeee
cha cha cha cha cha cha cha cha cha ch cha ch chaaaaain in in n in in in in iin in in n fro fro fro fro fro fro fro fro fro fro fr froom o m o m o m o m o m o m o m o m o m o m oo m o m o m o m o m o m ooooooone ne ne ne nne ne ne ne ne ne ne ne nne ne ne e nnneee ne n
cha cha cha ha cha cha ha ha cha h ch cha ch ccch cchha aainr inr inr inr inr nr inr inr inr nr inr inr nnrring ing ing ing ing ing in ing ing iing ing ing i to to to to to tto to to o
ano ano ano no ano ano o a tthe the the the the the th the the th the the theeee theeeee he the t rrrrrrrrrrr
Cha Cha Cha Cha Cha h Cha Cha Cha Cha Cha Cha Cha Cha CCCha Cha Cha ha Cha aa Cha ha CCCCCha CC ainr inr inr nr nr nr nr inr r nnr r in iin i rr iin ing ing ing ing ng ing ing ing ing ing ing ing ing ng ng ing ng ng ing ing ng ng g ng ing ggg i gg inggg
Car Car Car Car CCCar Car ar Car ar CCar Car Car ar Car Car a Ca Car Ca Car aaaaaaar ar ar Car aa CCCaaarrie rie rie rie rie rie rie ri rie rie rie rie rie e rie rie rie rie rie ee ri ie ieee r eee ri sssssssssssss
thh the the the the he he the the the h th tth ch ch ch ch ch ch hh ch ch h ch ch hhhain ain ain in in ain ain ain ain ain ain ain a nn ain nnn a nnnnnn
SSSma Sma SSSma Sma Sma Sma Sma Sma Sma ma SSma Sma SSma SS ll ll ll ll ll ll ll l l l l l cog ccog c TThe The TTThe h ch ch ch chain ain is issssss iss re re re re re re re re r tur urrrrrr tur tur turnned ned ned nn d nn
to to tto to to to to to o o oooo th th th th th th th th he the he th th h th th th th sm sm smm small all all allest est es es e co co co c b g b g b g y t y t y t tttttttttttt y t thhe he he he he h
pla pla pla pla pla la la pla pla pl pla aaa pla pla pp tte te te ttt ssp spr pr spr spr pr pr spr pr pp ing ing in iing.
Lar Lar Lar La ge ge ge ee e eee co co co cog cog cog cog co cog cog cog co co co cog cog co co co co The The The The The The The The The The The The The The The he The The Th T cccch ch ch ch ch ch cccccc ain ain ain a is iss mo mo mo mmove ved ved ved ve ve
to to to to to to to th thh the he he he he he he he hhhe h thhe thhhhe la la la la la la la la la la la lllllaarge rge rge rge ge rge rge ge rge e rge rge eessst st st st st t st st st st st sst ss cog cog og by by by by by by th th th tt e p e ppull ll ll l ull lll
of of of of of f f ff f ff ff ff f of f th the the the th the the the the the th th th the the th tt ca ca ca cca ca ca ca ca ca ca ca ca ca ca ca cca a ca cable bl bl bl bl bl bl bll bl ble ble blll bl bl bll bl bl ..
51
Derailleurr
cag cag cag cageeee
Mov Moves es ss thee the the he the
cha cha a cha chain iin in in in
Piv Piv Pivvvot ott poiint nt
Act Act Act AActs s as a fu fu ffu ff lcr cr cr crrr crum uuuuuum
for for th the a eee rm rm rm m rm
Cab Cab Cab Cab b able le le cla ccla cla cclamp mp mp mp
Hol Hol H dds ds thee theeee ca ca ca ca able le bl bl bll to to th th th thhe d e d e e d e deera era era rail ill il eur eur eeur eu e
Cla l mp bolt
Fixes derailleur
to the framee
Hig High a h a aaand nd nd lllow aaadjus justers
Lim Lim Lim imits its its i tr tr trraaave avel o l of t tttt f thhhe he ddder erail ailllleu leur c caage
Ou Ouut ut ut Ou er rr arm arm armm
Act Act Act Actss a s aass s s a s le le lever ver er
Cha Cha Cha Ch inr inr inr inring ing iing gg
Eng En Eng Eng Eng gage age aaggg ss
the the ch ch ch chaain n
STEP LOCATOR
MAINTAINING YOUR DRIVETRAIN FRONT AND REAR DERAILLEURS 52
Front derailleur
Front derailleurs shift the chain from one
chainring to the next. There are two main
kinds: braze-on derailleurs (below) are fixed ww
by an Allen bolt to a lug, or protrusion, on
the bike frame; band-on derailleurs are
attached to a band that goes around the
frame and is part of the derailleur.
There are two important maintenance
jobs for a front derailleur: setting it up after
fitting a new control cable and adjusting it
when it is not shifting properly. You should
also clean the derailleur regularly to prevent
the buildup of dirt, which interferes with the
way it works and will quickly wear it out.
For the derailleur to work perfectly, the
lower edge of the derailleur cages outer side
should be no higher than 2mm above the
largest chainring. The cages outer side must
also be parallel with the chainrings.
Correct shifts depend on the front
derailleurs traveling a certain distance per
shift. High and low adjusting screws on the
derailleur will control this travel.
Adjusting a front derailleur
Shift the chain onto the largest cog and
the smallest chainring.
Pull the front derailleur cage away from the

frame. The lower edge of its outer side should
clear the largest chainring by 2mm. If it is more
or less, undo the frame-fixing clamp and raise or
lower the front derailleur.
Line up the cage parallel with the chainrings

and tighten the frame-fixing clamp.
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Pull the gear cable through the cable
clamp and tighten the cable-clamp bolt.
Cut off any excess cable with your cable

cutters and put on a cable crimp (see pp.267). 77
Repeat Steps 2 and 3 if, after a couple of rides,

the chain will not shift up to the next chainring,
since cables can sometimes stretch slightly.
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Toolbox
Needle-nose pliers
5mm Allen key
Screwdriver
Cable cutters
Parts of a braze-on front derailleur
High/low
adjusters
Front derailleur
cage (inner side)
Front derailleur
cage (outer side)
Cable-fixing clamp
1111111111111111111111111111111111111111
2222222222222222222222222222222222222222
33333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333
4444444444444444444444444444444444444444444
55555555555555555555555555555555555555555
Frame-fixing
clamp
Pivots
Front derailleur 53
Undo the cable-
fixing clamp until
the cable comes free.
Look for the low gear

adjuster (usually marked
L) and screw it in or out
until the inner side of the
front derailleur cage is
about 2mm from the chain.
You have now set the
starting point of the
derailleurs travel.
Take this opportunity to

clean the guide in which
the cable runs under the
bottom-bracket shell. Use
degreaser, and then wash
and dry the whole area.
Put a little dry lubricant

in the guide.
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Screw in the high adjuster (usually marked
H) to bring the outer side of the front
derailleur cage to about 2mm from the chain.
Unscrew the higher adjuster to allow more

travel if, when you shift to the largest
chainring, the chain does not move onto it.
Check the action by shifting a few times

between all the chainrings.
55555555555555555555555555555555555555555555
Shift the chain across until it is on the
smallest cog and the largest chainring.
Repeat Steps 2 and 3 if the chain will not shift

onto the largest chainring.
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MAINTAINING YOUR DRIVETRAIN FRONT AND REAR DERAILLEURS
Rear derailleur
Most rear derailleurs are indexed, which
means that for every click of the shifter,
either up or down, the derailleur will shift
the chain from one cog to the next.
Occasionally, you may find that the chain
does not quite move onto the next cog
when you make a single shift, or else it skips
a cog in an overshift. In either case, the rear
derailleur needs adjusting. You will also need
to follow the steps in this sequence
whenever you fit a new cable (see pp.469). 99
To ensure that the rear derailleur works
faultlessly, pay particular attention to its
jockey pulleys because this is where oil and
dirt can accumulate. Degrease and scrub
them every time you clean your bike (see
pp.289). Whenever you lubricate the jockey 99
pulleys or the rear derailleur pivots, make
sure you wipe off any excess oil.
Adjusting a rear derailleur
Shift the chain onto the biggest chainring
and smallest cog, then undo the cable-
fixing clamp so that the cable hangs free.
Check the cable and fit a new one if it shows

any sign of fraying (see p.39). 99
Screw the barrel adjuster in or out, until it is at

half of its range.
11111111111111111111111111111111111111111
Shift back to the smallest cog, then
shift upward through each gear. If the rear
derailleur does not shift all the way onto the
next-biggest cog, screw out the barrel adjuster
until it does. If the derailleur overshifts and skips
a cog, screw in the barrel adjuster until it stops.
4444444444444444444444444444444444444444
Toolbox
Needle-nose pliers
Cable cutters
5mm Allen key
Screwdriver
Parts of a rear derailleur
Jockey pulley
Barrel
adjuster
Derailleur
pivot
Jockey cage
Cable-fixing
clamp
11111111111111111111111111111111 22222222222222222222222222222222222222222222 333333333333333333333333333333333333333333 444444444444444444444444444444444444444444 5555555555555555555555555555555555555555555
54
Rear derailleur
Use the high adjuster (usually marked H)
to line up the jockey pulleys with the
smallest cog.
Once you have lined them up, rotate the pedals

forward while adjusting the H adjuster until the
chain runs smoothly.
Pull the cable downward through the cable-

fixing clamp and reclamp it.
222222222222222222222222222222222222222222
Prevent the jockey pulleys
from making contact with
the bigger cogs by screwing in
the adjuster that butts onto the
rear derailleur hanger on the
frame dropout. Remember to
make this adjustment if you fit
a block or cassette with bigger
cogs than usual.
555555555555555555555555555555555555555555
Shift onto the smallest chainring and
largest cog.
Push the rear derailleur with your fingers

toward the spokes. If it moves beyond the largest
cog, screw in the low adjuster (marked L) until
the derailleur stops at the largest cog.
Turn the pedals to see if the chain runs

smoothly. If it does not, adjust the L in or out.
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55
MAINTAININNG YOUR DRIVETRAIN HUB GEARS 56
HUB GEARS
Hub gear rs located inside the hub casing alter thhe speed at t w whi ich h
the back wheel revolves. They require little routinne maintenan ance c
and, sinc ce they are sealed, most hub-gear system ms do not nnee ee eed d to
be lubricated regularly. The control cables must sttill be inspec cte ted d d
regularly y and replaced if they are worn.
How they work
All hub gears work according to the same basic principle. A system ooff internal
cogs makes the hub casing, and therefore the r rea eaar r r whhhee eee ee eeee eeeel, ll, l, l, l, ll,,, tt ttttt tttttttuur ur ur ur r ur ur ur uuurrr uurnnn nnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn at a different
speed from a single, external cog that is drivenn bby y y the pe pe peeeee peeeeda da da da daa dda daaaaa ddaa dals ls lss lssssss lsssssss vvv vv vvvv vvvvvvv vv vvvv vvia ia iiii the chain. The
external cog g is connected to the internal cogs b by y y a dr rrrriv iv iv veeer er err er eerrr eer uuu uuuuu uu uu uuuuni nni nnni ni ni ni ni ni i nni ni i ni ni ni nniiii nn t, tt, t, t,, t, tttt, ttt, t, ttt,, t, t aa aaa aaaa aaaa aaaaa and nd nd nnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn tt ttttttttttttttttttttthe he hhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhe hh c cogs
rotate the hhub casing at different speeds. Spoke kes ss at at at at at aatta ta ta ta tach ch ch ch ch ch t tt ttttttttttthhhhhe he he hhe he he he he he he he hhhe hee cccc ccc cccccccas as as as as as as as as as s as sss aas aa iiiin in n in innn iiin n in innnnnnnnn iinn ing g gg g gg gggg g gggggggggggggggg gg gg ggggg gggggg tto to to tto to to o to oooooo to toooo to to to to to o to to to ooo ttto toooo to o to tooooo tooo to oooooo t tthe he he
rim, therebyy turning the rear wheel.
A shifter on the handlebar operates a mech haan annis ism m m at at at ttta ta ta tt ch ch ch ch hh ched ed ed eddd ee tttttto o oo ooo o th th th th thh thhh thhhhhhhhhhhhhheeeeeeeeeeeeeee
hub. This mmechanism causes various combinatiioon nns s offf dd diif fffe feeere reeee r nt nnnt nt tt-s --s -s -ss -siz iz iz z iz iz iized eed ed ed d ed ed ed ed ed
cogs within n the hub to engage with a ring gear ar, , , wwhhic ic cch hh ddr drriv iv iv vvves ess es esss t ttttt thhe he he he hhe hhe hhh
hub casing. . Each combination gives a different gg gea ea ear r r ra aatti ti tio, o, o, o,, aa aaa and nd dddd nd nd nd nd nd ttttttt ttttttt thhhe he he he he he hhhe he he e he e
number of gears depends on the number of cogggs ss wi within in in tthe he he he e hhh hhhhub uub ub ub ub bb uub.....
SHIMAN NO NEXUS HUB GEAR ANATOMY
Dri Driver ver er un un un nnit it it
Tra Transf nsf sfers ers ers th th th th the c e c e c e cog ogg og og og og og g s d s d s d s d s d s riv riv ri riv riv rive a e a e a e a e a e aaaaaa e ee aand nd nd nd nd nd nd nd nd nd nd nd nd nd nd nd cau cau cau cau uuuuuuse ses ses ses ses ses ses ses ssse
the the ca ca carri rri ier er er uni uni uni uni uni unit t t t t t t t t tto o o oo en en eng eng eng eng ng ng en en en en ag age age age ag age age ge ge di dif dif dif ffff dif f dif dif di dif ddi di di di dddi fer fer fer fer ffer fe fe fe fe fe fe fe fe e ent ent nt ttt entt nt
cog cog ogs w s wwwwwith ith ith ith i th th th thhhe r e r e rrr e ring ing ing ing ing ngg ge ge ge ge ge ge geee gee gear ar ar ar ar ar aaaar aa
Bea arin rin ings gs gsss
Aidd th thhe r e rot ota ota ota ta ta ta ot tio tio tio ttio tion o n o n ooo n ooooo n oo n f t f t f t tt f t f t tt f t f t f f he he he he he he he he he e hhh hu hub hub hhub hub hub hu hub hhhub b hu h ca ca ca ca caa cca caa ccaaasin sin i sin sin sin si si si sssi ggg
Ring gear
Turns the hub casing g
Carrier unit
CCarries the
different--sized cogs
Cab Cab Cab CCab ab Cab b Cab a le le le eeee eee eee le ee and and and and nd and d and and and and aand and a sa sa sa sa sa sa sa sa sa satel tel te te ttte tel t lit lit tee
Sid Sid Sid Siddd Sid SSide v e v vvv e v e iiiew iiew ew iew iew iew iew iew iew ew i ww of of of of of of fff of of ff ttt th th th tt ttttttt e h e h e h e h e h h e h hh e ub ub ub ub ub ub ub ub ub ub ub
Hub ub ca ca ca casi sin n sin singgg
Tur urns ns ns the hee the the
whe wheel ell
To changee gear, the rider activates the shifter to
pull the c cable, which turns the satellite on the
drive sidee of the hub. This triggers a mechanism
within the driver unit to move two carrier units
containing c cooogs. DD DDif iff ifffe fe feere re re ennt nt nt t c cccccog og ogggg oggs ar ar ar ree e br br br brou ou ou ough ghh gh ght t t in in in in i to to tto to to
contact withh th the r riiin in ing g g ge ge ge geeaaar a ss. ss. WWWWWWWhe eeeeeeeeeeeenn n nn th thhe e e ca ca ccabl bl bb e e eee is is is
released, thheee spring ng ng ng ng-l -l -loa oa oa oadde de de d ddd ddd ccca ca a ca a cc rr rrrie iie iiie ie iiie ie iie ie ie eerr rrr r un un un un un un un un un unit it it it it it it t it t it it its sss ssssss s s mo mo mo mo mmmo mo mo mo mo oove ve vee ve vvvve
the cogs bac ac ack k k to a aaaa dddif if iffe fe fe fe e ferrrrrennnt nt ccccccom om om ommmmmmmmmmbbi bi bb na na nati tti ti tion on on on. .
Pro PP tec e tin tin t g the gears
The T ee hu h h b gear mecha ch ch ch nis ni m i m is f s ully
enclosed to oo pro p tect it from
dam mage a , dirtt, and water. r.
Hub gear a unitt
Contai ains n the thhe co co c gs thaat
allow gea g r chhanges
57
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4444444444444444444444444444444444444444444
MAINTAINING YOUR DRIVETRAIN HUB GEARS
Hub gear I
If the cable to your hub gear breaks or frays,
you will need to replace it. Before you start,
first identify the hub gear units on your bike
from the manufacturers name. This is usually
stamped on the hub, and the number of
gears is indicated on the shifter.
The hub-gear model illustrated in the
steps of this sequence is the Shimano Nexus
7-speed gear, which is operated by a twist-
grip shifter. Alternatively, bikes may be
equipped with SRAM hub gears, as well as
those made by other manufacturers, that
are operated by thumbshifters.
Some older bikes have Sturmey Archer
3-speed gears. Although they all work on
the same principle, the methods used to
change a cable are subtly different. Try to
find the manufacturers instructions for the
gear on your bikeask at a bike shop or
search the Internet.
Replacing a
hub-gear cable
Put the shifter into first gear. At this
point, there is no tension on the cable, so
it is the starting point for fitting a new cable.
If the cable is broken, the hub gear will have
automatically returned to first gear, so move
the shifter there to line up the system.
111111111111111111111111111111111111111
Insert the cable through the chainstay
cable guide and make sure the housing
is well-seated into the guide.
Pull the cable tight and tighten the clamp

bolt onto it at exactly the distance you measured
from the cable guide in Step 2.
Now push the clamp bolt back into the place

where it sits on the gear satellite (inset). tt
4444444444444444444444444444444444444444
Toolbox
Wrenches to fit wheel axle nuts and cable-clamp

bolt
Flat-bladed screwdriver
Parts of a hub gear
Cable route
Lockring
Position of red dots i i f d d
(underneath)
Seat for cable-
retaining bolt Right-hand axle nut
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33333333333333333333333333333333333333333333
5555555555555555555555555555555555555
58
Gear satellite G t llit
Hub gear I
R th h l Remove the rear wheel d h th h l and push the wheel
forward out of the dropout.
Use a flat screwdriver to lever out the cable-

clamp bolt from the position in which it sits on
the the ge gear ar sat satell ellite ite. .
Pul Pull o l on t n the he cla clamp mp bol bolt a t and nd mea measur sure t e the he len length of of
the cable between it and the chai inst nstay ay cab ble le guii g de de.
Und Undo tthe h l clamp to to rremove ve it from m m the the th the ol ol old c c d cabl bl able. e.
222222222222222222222222222222222222222222
ke Return the wheel to the bik
r by y placing the axle in the rea
dro dro o dr dd pou pp tts and pulling backward on
on the thee t e ww wheell so that there is tension o
the the he t ch ch ch h c ain a . D . Do not pull so hard that
th the he he th t c ch hh c ain ai in a be ecomes tight.
EEn Ens ns E ure re re re t that t the wheel is straight

en be bet ett b we weeenn t the e chainstays and tighte
tthe e ax axxxle e l nut ts. There should be
ab abo oout u
1
4 iin (6mm) of vertical
pla layyy i y inn thhe chain.
ft Ru un n R t thro ough the gears, shif

by by shii s ft.. f If f ttheere is a problem,
ng th the hu ub b ggeear may need adjustin
(((see ppp..60 0 .6 1). )
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R th bl t Remove the cable port on the plastic part on the plastic part
of the shifter, where the pointer indicates
which gear the system is in.
g Take the old cable out of the shifter by pushin

it from behind, or pull it out by its nipple.
Insert the greased new cable into the shifter.

Dri Dribbl b e a little oil inside the housing and then
pus push t the he new cable through the housing.
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59
2222222222222222222222222222222222222222
3333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333
555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555
MAINTAINING YOUR DRIVETRAIN HUB GEARS
Hub gear II
Occasionally, you might be unable to engage
a particular gear because dirt has interfered
with the gear satellites action. You will need
to remove the satellite to clean it, and this
means removing the rear wheel.
On other occasions, you might find that
the shift has lost some of its smoothness. In
this case, the cable has probably stretched so
that the shifter is out of phase with the gear
mechanism. To remedy this problem, use the
barrel adjuster on the shifter to take up any
slack in the cable.
Every time the wheel is removed and put
back on to your bike, run through the gears
and make sure they are shifting correctly.
If they are not, follow the last two steps of
this sequence in order to make the gears
run smoothly.
Finally, the hub-gear system has clear
markingslook for the red dots and the
yellow dots and trianglesto help you to
set up the gears.
If a bike is fitted with a Sturmey Archer
3-speed hub gear, it may occasionally shift
to second gear, but without any drive. When
this happens, put the shifter into the third-
gear position and look at the cable where it
runs along the chainstay. The cable will be
slack so that it sags. Undo the cable-clamp
bolt near the hub-gear unit and pull the
cable through the clamp until it runs in a
straight line. Reclamp the bolt and the
gears will shift perfectly.
Adjusting your hub-gear
assembly
Remove the rear wheel by undoing and
removing both its axle bolts. The satellite is
locked onto the hub by a lockring. Turn the
lockring by hand until its yellow dot lines up with
the one on the satellite.
Lift off the lockring to free the satellite.

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Put the satellite back onto the wheel. Line
up its triangles with those on the axle.
Press the satellite home on to the hub.
Replace the lockring, pushing it onto the

satellite so that its yellow dot lines up with the
yellow dot on the satellite.
Turn the lockring so that the dots are

separated. The satellite is now locked in place.
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Toolbox
Wrenches to fit wheel axle nuts

4444444444444444444444444444444444444444444 11111111111111111111111111111111
60
Hub gear II
Lift the satellite from
the hub body, noting
the relative positions of the
two yellow triangles that are
marked on it.
Note the position of two

more yellow triangles on the
bare axle that is left inside
the wheel.
Flush out the freed gear

satellite with degreaser. Let
this drain out and spray light
oil into the satellite.
222222222222222222222222222222222222222222
Shift through the gears until the shifter
is in fourth gear.
Use the barrel adjuster on the shifter to

fine-tune the gear adjustment. Tilt the bike so
that you can see the underside of the hub gear.
4444444444444444444444444444444444
Look for the two red dots on the gear
mechanism. One is marked on the satellite
and one on the lockring. Both dots are marked on
the underside of the gear where the cable runs.
In fourth gear, these two dots should line up. If
they do not, screw the barrel adjuster in or out
until the dots line up. When they do line up, all
the gear-shifts will be perfect.
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61
MAINTAINING YOUR DRIVETRAIN CHAIN, CASSETTE, AND CRANKSET
CHAIN, CASSETTE, AND CRANKSET
With every turn of the pedals, the chain, cassette, and crankset are
put under strain. The parts are in continu ual al ccon on nta ta tact ct ct, , , an an aa d d the mo mm tiioon n
of pedaling inevitably leads to we wear ar ar. . NNo No No No m mm mat at atte teerr r r ho ho ho ho ho howw w ww we we well l yyyyyyyyyyyyou ou ou ou ooo cccccccaar ar aa eee
for each part, they eventual ally ly ly y nnnee ee edd d to to to bbbbbbbbee ee re re re re remo mo mo mo m ve ve ve v d dd d d an an aa d d ddd re re re re re eeeeeeeeeeepl pl pppl pppl pppppp ac ac c acced ed ed ed ed ddddddddd eddd ed ed.
How theyyyy wwwwwooooorrrkkkkk
The chain, cassette, e, aand c ccra ra ra rank n se sett cco co co oooo comb mb bbb mb bb mmbbin in nnn iii ee eeeeee ee e
to form the he he he ear ar aaa t t t off t the hee d ddri ri ii ri iii r ve ve ve vetr tr r trai aaaain, n, t tthe he he ee he e h
part of the bike e t tttttthr hhr hhr hrou oou ough gh gh w wwhhhi hi hhi icch ch ch ch hh aa aa r rrr rrrid ddd iid id iider er ers s s
pedal power is s t tra rans ns nsfe fe ferr rr rrrred edd eed ee i iiiint nt nt nt nt ntt nt nttt nttoooooooooo o o ooo fo fo o fo fo fo fo fo ffffo orw rrrw rw rwwwwwwwwaar ar ar ar ar ar ar ar aaaaar ar arddddddddddddd
motion. The e ppeda daals ls ls dd dddri ri ri ri rive ve e vve e ve ttthe hhe he he he he he ccccccc ccra raa rrra raaannkkkk nnk nkse se se e se se sett t tt ttt an an annn annn an aa d, ddddd,,
via the chain, n, ttur r urn n a a a cco co oo co c gg g atttta ta tach ch h ch cch dd edd ed ed ee tttto o th th th tth tthh t e eeeeee
hub of the reea ear r whhhh w eee ee e l, l, w whi hi hh ch ch cch iin tuu tu turn rn rn rn rnnn rn
rotates the wwh whee eel. l. l
Bikes with h d der erai aill lleu eu eur r r r ge geeee ggg ar arrs s s us us ssse e eee de de dde dde de de dd ra ra ra rra ra ra rr ill il il il iil iil il iil il il illle le e le le e le le e le lll ur ur ur ur ur uu ssss sss
to shift the cha haain in o ont nto diiff ffffer er erreeen en ennn enn en en e t- t- t- t- t- tt si ssssi si sizeeee zee ze ze zee zeddddddd d d cccco co co o co ogs ggsss gs gs ggss ggg
and chainringsss, wh wh wh wh w icc ic ich hh ma ma ma ma ma ma make k u uuup ppppp p th th th th hh th th h the eee e e ca ca ca ca ca ccasss ss ss ss sssss ssss ss ssseeet et ett et et et et eet et ettt et ett etttt etttte te te tee te tttee teee tte te te tttee te te te te tteeee
and crankset. Ea Ea Each hh ch c c ccccom om oombi bina nati tionn on oooofff f ch ch h ch h ch hhhhhhai aaai aiii aaiinr nr nr nr nnr nrr nrrr nn iin inn innnnnn inn iin inn innnggggggggggggggggggggggg
and cog provides es es a a d ddd dif iffee feere re re r nt nt nnt geaar r ra ra ra attti ti ti ti ti i ti t o, ooo, ooo
giving up to 27 di di d ff ff fffer er eer e en ee tt t ge ge gear arrrs s s s th th that att c ccccc cc cccan annnn an aaa b bbbbb bbbbbbbb bbeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
used to tackle any nyth thin ing g ffr from om ommmm sstte teeep eeep c ccccli lii li li li li li li l mmb mb mmmmb mbb mmmb mmmmmmmmmb mmm ssss ss ss s
to gentle flats.
The cassette transfers t the motioon n of off t tt the he he he
chain to the wheel el. It IIt t ccc coonnnn onnnsi si sssss sts of cog og og ogs s s s th th th that at at
slide onto the casse eeettt t ee e e bo bbbo bo booody ddy dy dy dyy ddy dy, , wh wwwwww ic i hh is is b bbol ol ol ol oo tte te teeddd
onto the hub. The cass ssset et t et et t et eee tte tee b bbbbod od od oddd od od o y yyyy yyy ho ho ho ho ho ho ho hho hous uses es t tthe he e
freewheel, which allowws s s s th th th th th thhhhh th th thhhe ee ee eeeee wh wh ww ee ee ee eeee eee ellll l ll to to to tooo to toooo to tto t tt ttttttttttur uuu n
when the cassette is stati t on onnnar aar rrrr ar r ar ry. y. yy. yyyy. y. yyyy. y. y. y. yy.
CCCog Cog Cog Cog og og Cog og Cog CCCCog Cogg Cog Coggg CCogsssssssssss
DDri Dri Dri Dri i Dr Dr Dri Drri ri DDr ven ven ven ven ven ven nnn ven ven bby by bby by y by by by by by y by y by by by yy th th th th th th th th th th th th th th th th th thhh th tth thh t e c e c e c e c e c e c c eee c e c e c ee cchai hai hhai hai hai hai hhai hai ha ha ha ha hai i ai aaa hai innnnnnnnnnnn
CCCCCCh Cha Cha ha Cha Cha Cha Cha Ch CCCCChh Cha Ch Ch CCha Cha CCCh Chh C a CCha ha Cha Cha CCh Ch Ch Ch Chha Chh Chha CCC aain in in innn in in iiinnn iin inn iiiin in in inn inn in
FFFe Fe Fee FF e FFee e FFee Fee Fee ee ee Fe Fee e FFee Fee Fee Fe Fee Fee eeeeeee FFee ee Fee Fee e Fee Fe Fe Fee ee ee Fe Fe dds dddds dddds ds ddddddds ds ds ds ds ddds dss ds dds ddds ds ds dds dds s dddddss ddds thr tthr thr thr thr thr thr hr h thhr hh th thr thr thr tth tth th thhr thhhhr thr hh thr thr thr tthr tthr th ou oug oug oug oug ou oug ou ou ou oug ug ug ug g oug oug ooug ug g oou oug ooug oug oug ou ou ou oug oug oug ug ug oug ooug oug oug oug uuu oug oug oug oug u oug oug oou oug ooug ougghh h h hhh hhhhhhh hhhh h hhh
joc joc jjo joc joc joc jo oc jjoc jo joc jo joc joc jo jo oo j c jo joc jo joc jo jo o jo jo joc oc cc j ccc j key kkey key key key key key key key key key key key key key key key keyy ey ey ey ey key kkeey ppu pu pu pu puu pu uu pppuuu ppu pu uuuuu puu ppu u ppu ull lll lle ll lle lle ll lle ll l lle lle e lle le lle lle e lle e lle le le e lle lle lle lle e l eee ll leyyys ss yyys ys s yys ys yyys ys yyys ys ys ys s ys yyyyys ys ys s yyyyy
EXPLODED CASSETTE
RRRRe RRea Reea ea Rea a Rea ea RRReea ea ea Rea Rea RRRRRe Re Rea RReea ea RRRRea Rea ea Rea eea a R rr dd r d dd rr d r d rr d r d r d rrr d r d dd rr dd rr d r der eera era era era era era eer eer er eera era era ra r eraiiill iiill ll ill ill iiill lll ll ill ll i eur eur eur uur r eeuur r eeu euuur rr eur r eur r eurrrr euur rrr urr
Shi Shi Sh Shi Shi h Shi h Shi h Shi hi hi hiii Shiiifts ft ft fts fts ft fts ffts fts fts ffts fffts fts fts fts s fts fts ts ft fts ft ft fts ft ft th th th th th th th th th the c e cc e c eee c e cc e c e c e c e cccha ha ha hhai ai i ai ai ai hhha hhhaiii ha ai ii ha hai ii hai hai ai hai i a hai hai i hai aai ai ha hai ha nnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn nnn nnnnnn
ac aacr acr r acr acr c ac acr cr acr acr croooss os oss oss ooss oss ss s oss os oss oss oss ss s oss s oss s oss o th tth th th th th th th th th th th th th theee c e c e c e c eee cc e c e ogs ogs ogs ogs ogs ogs ogss ogs ogs gs
Qui Qui i Quick- ck- ck ck rel rel releas as ease l e l e eve eve everrr
Loc Loc Lo Lo ks ks ks ks whe h whe whe w l el el el int nt int intoo
pla pla l pla place ce ce ce c
Cas asset sette te bod bod bod bod bodyyyyyy
Con Con Cont i tai tai tains ns ns ns the theee th th fr fr fr fr f eeee eewww eeee hee hhee eell l l
Hubb Hub Hub Hub Hub Hub fl ffl fl fl fl fl flan ang ang ang ang ang ggeeeeee
SSpo Sp Spo po Spokkkes kes kes
con nn on connec nec nec nec ne t h t h t h t h t b ub ub ubb
to to whe wheel el rim rim i rim rim
Pro Proo Pr Profil fil fil fil filee
Sec Sec Sec ecure ure ure res c s c ss cogs ogs ogs o to too
cas as cas casset set set sette te te e bbod bod b yy
Cog
Sli Slides des on on on onto to to to
cas casset sette tee
boddyyyy
Spacer
Lockring
Holds cogs on
the body
62
How How H w th th th they wor wor wwworkk
Cha CCCha Cha Cha Cha Cha Cha Ch CCCha Cha Cha Ch Cha hhh inr in inr nr n inr inr n inr inr inr inr inr inr inr inr in iing ng ing ing ing ing ing ing
Ca Car Car Car Car CCar Car Car r Car Car rr Car CCar r Car Car rr Car rrrie ri rie rie rie rrie rie rrie rie i rrie rie rie iiee rie rie rie rie rie rie rries t t s t t s t tt s s t ss s t s t s t thhhe hhe he hhe he hhhe hhhe he he
cha cha cha cha cha cha cha aa ha cha ha cha cha cha haaa haain in in in in iin in nn in iin i aro aro aro aro aro aro ro o ar a ooo aro aaaround und und und und ndddd und und und und und und unddd und
the the the the h th thee the h the the hee theeee cr cr cr cr cr cr ccr cr cr cr cr cr ccr crrank ank ank ank ank k ank ank ank ank ank ank n an ank an ank k an nk k nk k a k ank ank an ank ank nnnnkset set set set set se set set et e se set se sset ssss
Ch Ch Cha Cha Cha Cha Cha Cha Cha ha aa Cha ha Cha Cha Ch Chh Ch Ch CCha C aiin in iin iin in in n n iin
Tra Tra Tra Tra Tra Tra Tr Tra Traa Tr Traansm nsm nsm nsm nsm mm nsm nsm mmm nsm nsm nsm sm m nsm mmm nsm nsm nsm ns ns ns it its it its its s its iits its tts its ts its t its its it it its it ts its ts i s ts ts ts its ii
pow pow pow ow pow pow oow ppow pow ow po ow w ppppow pp er eer er er eer eeee fro ffro fro fro ro fffro fro fro ffr fro fro f mmmmmmmmmmmmm
the the the the the he the the he the he thee th th th th th the he tthhe ccr cr c cr c cr cr r cr cr r cccr cr cr ccr cr ccr cr ccr cr cr cr cr cccr rr c ccr rank ank ank ank nk ank ank k n ank ank an ank ank ank ank aank ank kk ank aan aank kkset settt sset set set set set eet e se set set set e set e set et et set set ssset e sss t
Ped Ped dd Ped Ped Ped Ped Ped Ped eddddd PPed ed Ped Ped Ped PPed PPe Peedal al al al aal al aal al aaaaaaaaa
Tra Tra T a Tra Tra Tra Tra Tra Tra Tra Transm nsm nsm nsm m nsm nsm nsm nsm n mm nnsm nsm m smm nsmit it its its its t its ts its iits its its tt itss
ene ene ene ene ene ne ene eene n ene ene ne e ne e en ene ene ene ne ergy rgy rgy rgy rgy rgy rrgy rgy rgy rg rgy rgy yyy gy rgy gy gy gy gy to to to to to to to to to to to too to to to to to to too to to to to th th th th th th th h tth th tth th t eeeeeeeeee
cra cra ra ra cra cra cra craa cra cra cra cra cra craaaaaa cra raaaa cranks nk nks nks k nks k nks nks nks nks nks nks nks nks nnnks nk nnk eet et et et et et et et t et eeet et et
Cra Cra Cra CCra Cra Cra Cr Cra Cr Cr Cr Cr C nks nks nks nks nks kks nks n s kss kset et et et et et tt et et t eet et et
Pow PPow Pow Pow Pow Pow PP ere ere eree ere ere eree ere red b d b d b d bb d b d b d bb d by y y y y y yy y y yy
ped ped ped pe ped ed ped ped ed ddd ed ped ped ped ped ed ped ed ped ped e ped ed ppp ali ali ali al ali ali i ali ali ali ali iii li li ali li ali al al ng ng ng ng nng nng ng ng nng ng ng nnng nnng gg
Lig Lig Lig Lig Lig Li htw htw htw htw htw htw htw tw tw htw wweig eig eig eig eig eig eig eeig e g e g eeig ig ght ht tt ht ht ht ht ht t hht ht ht ht t ht ht ht ht com com com com com com com com cccco ccccccoo c pon pon pon pon po ponent ent ent ent tt ent n ssss
The The The The The The Th Th Th TTT ch ch ch h ch ch c ain ain ain in n, c , c , c , c cc , c cass ass ass ass as ass sssett ett ett ett tt ett ett ett tt tt tt tt tt ttt ett ette, ee, e, e, e, e, e, eee, and and d and and nd d cr cr cr cr cr cccr cr cc ank ank ank ank ank ank ank ankkset set set set sett ss ar ar ar ar ar re l e l e l e l e l e l e l e ligh ighh ighhh igh igh igh ighh igh ightwe twe twe twe twe twe twe ttw tw tw igh ighhh igh igh ighh igh ightttttttttttt
ite ite iite items ms mss ms ms m tha tha tha tha tha tt t u t u t u t u t u t use se se se s the the h the the la la a la lates tes tes tes tes tes te tessst d t d t d t d t d t d t d t d t d dd t d dddes es esi esi esi esi esi esi eeeeeee gn gn gn gn gn gn n gn gg and and and annd and a d co co co co cco co c nst nst nst nst tt ns ruc ruc ruc ru ructio tio tio tio t nnnnnnnn
tec tec tec tec ttt cchni hni hni hni n hni ni ni hhnnique que que que qu qqu qu qu qu qqqqq s t s t s t s t tto m o m oo m o maxi axi axi axi xi ximiz miz miz miz miz mm e s e s e s e s e s s e stre tre tre re tre tre tre tre tr tr tr ngt ngt ngt ngt ngt n h a h a h a h a h a and nd nd nd nd nd n dur ddur dur durrrabi abi abi abi abi i abi bilit lit it it lit lit lit lit lityyyyyyy
whi whi whi while le e le l mai mai mai ma mai ma mmma nta nta nta aaa nta nt nt ini ini in in iin ini ning ng ng ng ng ng ng an an an aan aaa aer aer aer aer aer aer aerody ody ody ody dd ody dy yyyynam nam nam nam nam amic ic ic ic cc pro pro pro pprofil fil fil fi fi fii e. e. e. e.
CHAIN ANATOM MMMMMMMMMMMYYYY
Rea Rea Rea Rea Rea Rea Rea Re Rea Rea Rea Re Rea Re Rea R aa Re Re r w r w r w r w r www r ww r ww r r ww r ww r w r w r ww r www r w r wwwhee hee hee hee hee hee e hee e hee hee e he h e hee hee hee hee hee he he hee hee e hhhhh lllllllllllllll
DDri DDri Dri Dri Dri Dri Dri DDDDriven ven ven ven en en ven en en en vennn by by by by by by by by by by by by by bbby byyyy
the the the the the the the the h th the he co co co co co co co cooo coooo cco c gs gs gs gss gs gs gs gs gs gs gs gs gs gss gs gss gs gss gs gs
Inn nn Inn Inn nn ner er er err er eeer er eeer lin lin n lin n lin li lin li kkkkkkk
Rot Rot Rot o Rot Rot Ro ate aate ate atte te a ss s a s aaaaaaaaaaaaarrouu round dd nd n thhh the he thh ba a barre rre rre relll
Bar Bar Ba BB rel rel rel
Sit Sits b s bbbbbbetw etw etw tw etw t etw et eet een een ee een een een een en en en te teeth of of of of
cha cha h inr inr r n ing ing ing i s a s a s aa d nd cog cogs
Out O er e lin nnkk
Sha Shaped pe pe to alllloow owww o
qui qu qui qui qu ck ck k ck gea a ge gear-s r sshif f hif hif h fts ts tsssss
Joi J nin ning p g pin in
Co Connec ee ts s inn n n er
and a d aa ou ouuter ter ter links ks s
The chain is the key e to o o
transmitting pedal aaaal aaaa powwwwwweeeeeeer eer er eer eee
into forwa w rd m mot ot ot ot ot ot ot otttt oooot ooot ot ooo io io iooo iooo io ii nn.
To To To To TTo To To To TToo Too To Too Toooo To TTo Tooo Toooo TTo TTo To To To Too To Too TTToo TTTTTTToo Too TTTo Too TT t tttttttttttttttttttttttt tttttttttttttttttt tttttttttra ra ra ra ra ra ra ra ra ra ra ra ra ra ra ra ra ra ra ra rra rra ra ra ra rrra rrrrra aa r ns nns ns ns ns ns ns s ns nnnnnnnnnnnnnnn ffffffe fe f r powe we weeeeeee weer rr r ef ef eee fi fici ci iiieeeeen en een en en en nnnnnn en en enn en een en nnntl tl tl ttl tl tl tl tl tttll ttllyyyyy, y, yyy, yyyyyyy, yyyyyy, y, yyyyyyyyyy, y, tt tthe he he e he hh
h ch ch ch ch hhh ch ch ch hh ch ch ch ch hh ch ch ch ch ccc ai ai ai ai ai i ai i ai aa n n n nn n mu mu mu mu mu mmu mmmm st st st st s bb bbbb bbbe ee eeeee st st st st st ss ro ro ro ro ronng ng ng ng ng ng ng nng ng,, bu but t fl fffl fl fl fll fffll ffl fl ffffl fll fl fl ffl ffll fl fl ffllll fll flllllleex ex ex ex xxx eex ex ex eex eex eex ex ex x ex eeex ex ex ex ex eex ex ex eeex ex ex ex eeeeex x eeeeeeeeex ex ex x eeeeex ex ex eeex eeeeeeex eeeeexx eex x ex xxxxxib ib ib ib ibb iibb iiiibble llee llll
eeen en enn enn en ennn en en en enn en eeen en en een en en en en en en en eeen ennnnou ou ooooouuu ooooou ouu oou ou ouuu ouu o gh gh gh gh gh gh gh gh gh ggh gghh gh tt to o oo ffi fi fi fii fii ff tttt t t t tt t se se se se se se secu cu cu cu cu cuure re re re eeee re re re re re e re ely ly ly yy ly y ly ly ly yyyy ly y aro ro roun un nnnnnnnnnnnnndddddddddddddddddddd ddddddddd ddddddddddddd ddddddddddddddddddddddddddddd dddd dddddddddddddddd ttttth th th thhhh th tth th thhh tth tth ttth thh thh tttheeeeee
te te te teeee ttte tteet eet et etttt ett et et et eeettt ethhhhh h h hhhh oof of of offff of tt tthe he e he he e h cccc ccccc ccha hha ha hha ha ha hainn in inri ri iiinng ng ggg ng ng gg ng ggggssssss ss and
co cco co co co co co co co co co co co co cccco co o co co co co oo co o co co o ccco co o co co co cco o cco ooggggs ggs gs gs gggs gggggs gs gs gss ggs gs ggg . To To To To achieeeve v this, , a aaaaaaa a s series of of of of of of of offf offff of of of offff
li link nk nk nkk nk kkkkkksssssssss ssss s s s ar ar ar ar ar aaar aaaaaaaaa ti ti tti tttticu cu cula late teeeee aaaaaaa aaro ro ro o rro ro ro oun un n un un uuuuu d d dd jo jo jo jo jo jjjo joining
pi pi pi pi pppppi pi pi pi pi pi pii pi pi pii ppi pi pi pppppp ns nnnns ns nnnns nnns ns ss, ,, , , , , , ,,,,,,,,,,,,, wh wh wwh wh wh wh wh wh wh wh wh whh wh wh wwh wwwwwwwwww ic ic ic ic ic ic ic iccccch h h h hhh ar ar ar ar ar ar areee su uu su uuu su urrr rr rr rr rr rr rr rrou ou ou ou ooooo nd nd nd dddded ed eeed edddddddddd edd by
rre re re re re rrre re revvo vooo vo v lv lv lv lv lv lv lv lv lvvv lv lvv lv lv lv lv lv lv lv lv lv lv llllvvvin in in in iin in in in in in in nn in in in iin in in n in in in in in iiiin in ngg g g g g g g g g g gg gg g ggggg me me me me mmmme eeta ta ta ta ta tta ta ta ttal l l l ba ba ba ba ba baaa bbbaarr rr rrr rr rr rr rr rr rr rrel el el el el el el l el el el el eeel eel lllssssss.. s.. s.. ss. s. s. s. s.. s.. ss..
63
STEP LOCATOR
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Chains
Replacing a chain is a regular maintenance
task. All chains eventually wear out, even
if you clean and lubricate them properly.
A worn chain, as well as being inefficient,
will quickly wear out other drive parts and
end up costing you money.
To determine how much a chain has
worn, either use a specialist gauge from a
bike shop or measure the length of 24 links.
If the length is greater than 12in (300mm),
the chain is worn.
New chains on derailleur gear systems
are linked with a joining pin that comes with
the chain. You will need a link extractor tool
to make this join. The thicker chains of hub
gears, BMX bikes, and some fixed-gear bikes
are joined by split links.
Replacing a
derailleur chain
Shift onto the smallest chainring and cog
so that the chain is slack.
Place a link in the link extractor and push out

the pin until the chain breaks.
Remove the old chain with the link extractor.

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Remove the excess links from the opposite
end from the one on which there is a
joining link. Leave an inner link so that the two
ends can be joined together.
Close the chain by pushing the pin of the

joining link through the opposite inner link with
the extractor tool.
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Toolbox
Chain link extractor
Needle-nose pliers
Parts of a split-link and a Shimano chain
Split-link pins
Groove
te Outer plat
Split pin
Shimano
chain
Split-link
chain
Inner
links
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64
Chains
Joining a split-link chain
Thread a new chain through the jockey
pulleys and around the biggest chainring
and smallest cog.
Pull the ends of the chain together so that

there is a little tension in the jockey pulleys.
This establishes the length of chain you need.
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Join the chain by pressing the side of the
split link with the pins fixed in its plate
through the two inner-link ends of the chain.
Press the other plate onto the pins that are

now sticking through the inner links.
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Push the split pin into the grooves of the
split-link pins. These are sticking through
the outer plate that you have just fitted. The split
pins open end should face the rear of the bike.
Fix the split pin in place by pushing it home

with needle-nose pliers until you feel it click.
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Loosen any stiff links that occur when the
chain links are compressed during Step 3.
Flex the stiff links with a little sideways

pressure until they become loose (inset). tt
Remove the protruding part of the pin after

joining a Shimano chain, since these have an
extra-long joining pin.
Break off the excess with needle-nose pliers.

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65
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Cassette and
freewheel
The cassette and freewheel allow the rear
wheel to rotate while the pedals remain
stationary. Their internal mechanismsthe
freehub body of a cassette and the block in
a freewheelwill eventually wear out and
need replacing. The cogs on both can also
wear down. These parts will also need to be
removed whenever you replace a broken
spoke on the drive side of the rear wheel.
The tools for removing a freewheel and a
cassette depend on the manufacturer of the
part that is fitted to the bike. Usually, the
manufacturers name is stamped on the
component. However, if you are in any doubt
about which tool you need, take the wheel
to the bike shop when buying a remover tool.
Removing a cassette
Removing a freewheel block
Remove the quick-release skewer from
the rear wheel.
Insert the cassette remover into the teeth of

the lockring at the center of the cassette.
Replace the quick-release skewer to secure the

cassette remover.
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Remove the quick-release skewer and
insert the block remover into the teeth at
the blocks center.
Lock the block remover in place by replacing

the quick-release skewer.
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Toolbox
Wrenches
Cassette remover
Chain whip
Block remover
Grease
Parts of a freewheel and a cassette
Cogs
Inner side
ridges of
cassette
Lockring
Cog
Freewheel mechanism
Cassette
Freewheel
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66
Cassette and freewheel
Wrap the chain whip around a cog, and
place the wrench on the remover.
Press downward on both tools. This holds the

cassette, while the remover unlocks the lockring.
Remove the quick-release skewer once the

lockring starts turning.
Continue to unscrew the lockring with the

cassette remover.
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Check the integral freewheel mechanism,
which is independent of the hub. Replace it
with a new block if it is worn.
Coat the threads of the hub with grease, then

screw the block on by hand.
Lock the block in place by tightening it with

the wrench and the block remover.
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Put the wrench on the flats of the block
remover and turn counterclockwise.
As the block begins to move, remove the

quick-release skewer and continue turning until
the block comes off.
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Take off the smallest cog after
you have removed the lockring. On many
cassettes, the remaining cogs come off in one
piece. If they do not, you must put individual cogs
back in a certain way. Failure to do so will affect
the precision of gear-shifts. Usually, the cogs are
marked, so that lining up these marks ensures the
correct cog orientation.
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67
STEP LOCATOR
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MAINTAINING YOUR TRANSMISSION CHAIN, CASSETTE, AND CRANKSET 68
Cranksets
Removing a crankset is a useful skill to have
because it will allow you to replace an old
crankarm, clean or replace a worn chainring,
or work on the bottom bracket.
Cranksets are attached in one of four
ways. Those held in place by a hexagonal
bolt can be removed with a crankset socket
spanner (see Step 1). Cranksets with a self-
removing Allen bolt can be detached with
an 8mm Allen key (see Step 2). Versions with
a standard Allen bolt can be detached with
the relevant Allen key (see Step 3). Those
on a hollow-axle bottom bracket can be
removed by reversing the steps on pp.745.
When refitting a crankset, keep grease or
oil from touching the axle. The crankset must
be dry when fitted to the axle or it will work
loose. After refitting, go for a short ride and
then try the axle bolt again. If it is slightly
loose, you should tighten it.
Removing a crankset
Detach a hexagonal crankset bolt from
the axle with a crankset socket wrench.
Normal socket wrenches are often too thick to
fit into the space where the bolt is located.
Steady the crankarm with your free hand to

give you something to push against. Work from
below the crankset so that if your hand slips, the
chainring teeth will not injure you.
To remove the crankset, go to Step 4.

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Use a crank extractor to remove the
crankset if it is not the self-removing type.
Make sure that the washer beneath the bolt has
also been removed.
Carefully screw the extractor into the delicate

threads at the centre of the crankset. When the
extractor is fully in, turn its handle clockwise to
pull off the crankset.
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Toolbox
Crank extractor
5mm Allen key
8mm Allen key or crankset socket spanner
Chainring bolt peg spanner

Parts of a crankset
Right-hand
crankarm
Chainring bolt
Chainrings
Spider
Cranksets 69
Use a long-handled Allen key if there is
an Allen bolt holding the crankset on your
bike. Usually, an 8mm key is the size required.
Work from below the crankset so that if you

slip, the chainring teeth will not injure you.
To remove the crankset, go to Step 4.

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Unscrew a self-removing Allen bolt with
an 8mm Allen key. These bolts extract the
crankset as you unscrew them.
Steady the crankarm with your free hand to

give you something to push against. Work from
below the crankset so that if your hand slips, the
chainring teeth will not injure you.
To remove the chainring, go to Step 5.

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Remove the chainring
with a 5mm Allen key
on one side and a chainring
bolt peg spanner to hold
the bolt on the other. You
can do this without taking
the crankset off the axle, but
you must remove it if you are
working on the inner rings of
some triple cranksets.
Cure a creaking noise from

the crankset by putting
grease on the threads of the
chainring bolts before you
reassemble the crankset.
Standard chainring bolts
are made from steel. Be
especially careful not to
over-tighten aluminium
or titanium bolts.
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MAINTAINING YOUR TRANSMISSION BOTTTOM TOM BR BRAACKETS
BOTTOM BBRRAACKETS
How they work
The bottom bracket joins the crank of each
pedal with an axle, which rotates in the bikess
frame. Each type of bracket consists of an axle, e
two bearings, and two threaded cups (called eith ther e
the free cup and fixed cup, or the non-drive and
drive-side cup). With the cartridge type, both cranks bolt
onto the axle, but with the hollow-axle type, the drive-
side crank is fixed to the axle and only the non-drive side
crank can be bolted on. A third type of bottom bracket,
the BMX bracket, has a threaded axlethe bracket is held
in place by a locknut that screws on to the thread on the
non-drive side of the axle.
Each of the cartridge bearings
is composed of ball bearings,
which are sandwiched between
an inner and outer race by
plastic seals. The cartridge
bearings are located close
to each end of the
bottom-bracket axle.
A tubu b lar sleeve fits over
the two bearings, filling
the space between them.
The fixed and free
cups fit over this
sleeve to create a
totally seal lleed e unit.
70
CARTRIDGE-BEARING BOTTOM BRACKET ANATOMY
Axl Axl Ax Axl AAA ee
Co Con Con Connec nec nec c e ts ts ts s ts the thee he
cra cra cra cranks nks nks n an an an anndddd
rot rot rot rot tate ate ate aa s i i s i iinnn
th the he be be beari ari arings ngs ngs
FFFFre FF e cup
Scr cr ccr rews ew ew ew into
the the the thee the th bikes
fra fra fra fraaa fra frammmme m
Cra Cra Cra Cra Crank nnk nk nnk
Tur Tur TTur Tur TTur Tu ns ns ns ns nn the the the tthe h the ax aax ax axle le le le lee
Fixed cup up cu
Holds the bo bootto tto tto ttoooommmmmm
bracket in pp n n lac lac lac lac lac ceeeeee
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HHou Hou H sses thhhhee b e bearrring ng ing ingssss
Bal al al al all-b l-b l- ear ear earing ing ing n
Sup Sup Sup Sup Suppor por por or ppo ts ts t the the tthe the ax ax aaxle lee
Pro id vidiing st s rength
The axle and bearings of f
the bottom b bra racket need to o
be both stronng and reliablee
enoughh to bear the weigh ht t
and power wer of the rider.
There are two ma ain in types of bottom bracket: cartridge- e-bbear rin ingg
and hollow-axle. BBoth use sealed bearings, which can w wearr
out over time. I If f tthiss happens on n th the ca cart r ridge versio ion,
replace the wh hol ole unit, but on on a holloww-axle type
you only need d to to rep place ce tthhe bearings.
How How Howw Ho How How Ho HHo th th th th th t ey ey ey y wor wor wo wor workkkkkk
The drive- e side d crank is
permanently fixed to the axle,
which passes through both
cups. The non-drive side
crank slides onto the axle
and is secured by two
pinc n h bolts. The crank
cap bolt i inserts into the
end of the axle to hol o d
the crank against the
bearing, ensuring that
there is no play, rather
like the stem cap bolt
on a threadless
headset (p.90). 00
Cra Cra C nk nk n
Tur Tu ns s the the the he hhhhhhhh ax a aaaa le
71
HOL OL LLOW-AXLE BOTTOM BRACKET ANATOMY
Ball-bearing
Lets the axle turn
Cup
Holds bearings
in the frame
Crank
Turns the axle
Cup
Holds the h bearings
in place in the frame
Axle
Connects the cranks
and rotates
in the bearings
Pinch bolts
Hold crank
in place on
the axle
Crank cap bolt
Presses crank
against bearings
Cartridge-bearing
bottom bracket
Allows the smooth
rotation of the axle
MAINTAINING YOUR DRIVETRAIN BOTTOM BRACKETS
Cartridge
bottom bracket
Cartridge bottom brackets require no routine
maintenance. Their bearings are sealed from
the elementseven from the water you use
for hosing or pressure-washing your bike,
provided you turn the pedals forward during
the wash.
When the bearings do eventually wear
out, you will have to replace the whole unit.
The remover tools for this job are specific to
each particular bottom bracket, so check
which brand is fitted to your bike before
buying the tools.
If you are planning a replacement, there
are three types of bottom bracket axles to
choose from: square-tapered, Shimano
Octalink, and Isis. The type used in the steps
in this sequence is square-tapered; the type
shown below is Octalink.
Finally, if you are having any problems
installing a bottom bracket on your bike,
ask the experts at a bike shop to help you.
Installing a cartridge
bottom bracket
Put the bike on a workstand and remove
the crankset (see pp.689). 99
Use a pair of calipers to measure the length

of the old axle before you remove the bottom
bracket, so that you can be sure the replacement
has an axle of the same length. You need to do
this because different cranksets are designed to
work with different axle lengths.
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Grease the threads of each side of the
new bottom bracket for easier fitting. The
non-drive threads are sometimes referred to as
the free-cup and the drive-side threads are known
as the fixed cup. Do not grease the drive side of
a bottom bracket with Italian threads.
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Toolbox
Measuring calipers
Ruler
Wrench
Cartridge bottom bracket remover
Grease
Parts of a cartridge bottom bracket
Non-drive
(free-cup)
side
Bottom-bracket axle
Drive (fixed-cup) side
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72
Cartridge bottom bracket
Measure the width of the bottom-bracket
shell with a ruler. The shell forms part of
the bikes frame and will be either 2
3
3
4 in (68mm)
or 3in (73mm) wide. This width determines the
width of the bracket unit you need to buy.
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Insert the bottom bracket from the drive
(fixed-cup) side using the remover tool. Fit
the teeth of the tool into the indentations of the
bottom bracket (see enlargement). tt
Insert the non-drive (free-cup) side when the he

drive side is almost in position. Use the rem remove ove verrr
to screw it in a few turns. Fully tight ghteen en en th the the the e ddr dr ddr dr dr rriv ive ive ve ve ive iveee
side, then the non-drive side. e.
5555555555555555555555555555555555555555555
k Remove both the crankarms ((see pp 68 9 see pp.689)), 9999
insert a bottom-bracket remover into the
non-drive side of the bracket, and turn the
remover counterclockwise with a wrench.
Repeat on the other side, turning clockwise.

Turn counterclockwise if your bike has an Italian-
threaded bottom brack cket et (ma (marke rked 3 d 36 x 6 x x 1) 1) 1).
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73
STEP LOCATOR
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333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333
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MAINTAINING YOUR TRANSMISSION BOTTOM BRACKETS 74
Hollow-axle
bottom bracket
Hollow-axle bottom brackets, such as those
made by SRAM, Campagnolo, and Shimano,
are designed to increase bottom-bracket
strength. The axle bearings screw onto the
outside of the bottom bracket shell, which
houses a large diameter axle that is hollow,
light, and stronger than other axles. Since
the bearings are farther apart than on other
bottom-bracket designs, they encounter less
torque, which increases their lifespan. But
they will eventually wear out, so you will
need to know how to remove and replace
them. The steps can also be followed if you
want to upgrade to this system.
Installing a hollow-
axle bottom bracket
The faces of the bottom bracket shell must
be flat and parallel. This requires specialist
equipment, so get the frame checked at a bike shop.
Measure the width of the bottom bracket shell,

then check the manufacturers instructions to
determine how many spacers are required and on
which cup to put them.
Grease the threads of the cups and place the

necessary spacers on them.
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Push the left-hand crank onto the non-
drive side of the axle.
The crank must be mounted at 180-degrees to

the right-hand crank. To do this, match the wide
notch on the axle with the wide tooth on the crank.
Unlike other bottom bracket systems, it is not

necessary to have a dry interface between the
crank and axle. Put a little grease on the axle
before you fit the crank.
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Toolbox
Hollow-axle cup tool
Hollow-axle crank cap tool

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Non-drive
side cup
Crank cap bolt
Left-hand
crank
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Pinch bolt
Chainring
Combined
drive-side
cup and
sleeve
Axle
Spacers
Parts of a hollow-axle bottom bracket
Hollow-axle bottom bracket 75
Screw the cups into the frame as far as you
can with your fingers (inset). tt
The drive-side cup screws in anti-clockwise, and

the non-drive-side cup screws in clockwise.
Secure the cups on each side by tightening

them with the hollow-axle cup tool (main image).
Grease the axle in preparation for pushing it

through the cups.
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Hold the drive side (right-hand) crank
and push the axle through the hole in
the center of the drive-side cup.
Continue pushing until the end of the axle

pops out of the non-drive-side cup.
You may encounter resistance, especially as you

push the axle through the non-drive side cup. If
this happens, give the center of the crank a sharp
tap with a plastic mallet.
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Grease the threads of the crank cap bolt,
and screw it into place with your fingers.
Tighten the crank cap bolt with the crank cap

tool, which draws the crank onto the axle.
Do not over-tighten the crank cap bolt. Rotate

the cranks and if the axle is stiff, loosen the crank
cap bolt a little.
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Tighten the crank pinch bolts with an
Allen key to fix the crank in place.
The pinch bolts work as a pair, so must be

equally tight. Tighten them in sequence by screwing
in the first a little, then screwing in the other by
the same amount. Repeat until both bolts are
tight, but do not use excessive force.
If you have access to a torque wrench, use it to

tighten the bolts to the manufacturer's instructions.
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MAINTAINING YOUR DRIVETRAIN BOTTOM BRACKETS
BMX bottom
bracket
Many types of bottom brackets are fitted to
BMX bikes. The type used in this sequence
of steps is similar to the type used on many
childrens bikes.
The biggest difference between this kind
of BMX bracket and normal bottom brackets
is that the threads securing it in the frame
are on the axle and not inside the bottom-
bracket shell. The axle has a cup and cone
bearing system, a little like an open-bearing
hub (see pp.1001). The drive-side cone,
chainring, and axle are made in one piece,
and the crankarms bolt on to them. This kind
of crankset and bottom bracket is called a
3-piece crankset. Screwing the locknut onto
the cone needs practice to ensure that the
bottom bracket is adjusted successfully.
Setting up a BMX
bottom bracket
Take out the captive bolt at the center of
the non-drive side crankarm, then loosen
the crankarm bolt on the side.
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Put the newly greased drive-side bearings
back into their cup, then insert the axle so
that it sticks out of the non-drive side.
Put the greased, non-drive side bearings over

the axle and into their cup.
Make sure that the non-drive bearings are

sitting square inside their cup.
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Toolbox
Peg wrench
Wrenches
Grease
Degreaser
Parts of a BMX bottom bracket
Non-drive side cup
Chainring
Non-drive
side bearings
Non-drive
side cone
Drive-side cup
Drive-side
bearings
Axle threads
Spacing washer
Locknut
Drive-side cone
Axle
STEP LOCATOR
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76
BMX bottom bracket
Remove the crankarm. Hold the non-drive
cone still with a peg wrench while removing
the locknut with a wrench.
Remove the spacer and the cone and pull out

the non-drive bearings from the cup, which is
located inside the bottom-bracket shell.
Inspect, clean, and degrease the cone.

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Put the non-drive cone and spacer over
the axle and screw the cone on to the
bearings with the peg wrench. Screw the locknut
onto the axle.
Hold the cone in place against the bearings and

screw the locknut down onto it. Then screw the
cone back a little to the locknut. A bit of play in
the axle is permissible, but too much will throw
off the chain.
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Put the spacer back on the non-drive
side of the axle and then push the crankarm
back onto it.
Tighten the captive bolt in the middle of the

crankarm, then tighten the retaining bolt on
its side.
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Take out the drive side of the bottom
bracket once you have removed the locknut
and cone from the non-drive side.
Hold the drive side by the drive-side crankarm

and clean and degrease the bearings. Replace any
worn bearings and grease the clean bearings.
Inspect the cups while the drive side is out of

the bike. Replace any worn cups or cones.
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77
MAINTAINING YOUR DRIVETRAIN PEDALS
How they work
The two pedals transfer the push from the
riders legs and feet into both crankarms,
which, in turn, rotate the axle in the bottom
bracket. The body of a pedal rotates around
an axle and is supported on bearings that are
either open or held within a cartridge. Thee
pedals axle screws into the crankarm.
Pedals should grip a riders feet in somee
way. For example, studs that prevent f foo oott
slippage will help a rider who makes frequ qu qu quen en enn e ttt
stops, such as a commuter in heavy traff ffic ic...
Some flat pedals are fitted with toe-cliipps ps ps
and straps that hold the front of the fo foot,
although they can interfere with thee ffooot
as the rider tries to remove it. Cliplesss
pedals hold the foot securely, while
releasing it easily whenever the rider w wis is ishe he h s. s.
There are two types of pedals, flat and clipless. . PPedals ss wwit thh op open en n
bearings require regular inspection and lubrication. CCli lippleess ppeda da da dals ls ls
must be lubricated to ensure easy foot relea ase. Clea atss s shho h ul uld be be be
correctly fitted to the riders shoes and regularl rlyy in in i sp peec ectedd fo or we we we wear ar r.
PEDALS
FLAT PEDAL ANATOMY
Converting energy
Pedals als s aaar a e the invention
tha tha ha h t d t d ddefi efi efi fi efi efi efi eef nes cycling. They
are are are ar ar th th th th thee f ee f e irst step in the
pro pro oces ces e ce es es ssss e s o ss o s o s o s o s o s f c f c fff onverting
hum hum hum uumman aan an an an energy into
mmec ec ec ec e mecc eecha ha ha ha han hhhhh ical motion.
Two bearings on the pedals axle
are held in place by a cone and
lockring that screw on to the
outer end of the axle. A knurled
retainer attaches the pedal body
to the axle. The cone
(not visible) and the
lockring can be
adjusted to permit the free
rotation of the body around
the axle, without any play.
Axle
Screws into the crankarm
Knurled retainer
Holds the body onto the axle
Pedal bod bo body
Rot ootate atees onn
the the ax axle e le
Crankarm
Tra Transf nsfers poower w to tt
the the bo botto t m bbrac ra ket et
Lockknutt
Holds ds the the
cone i e in p n p plac lac llacee
78
Ball bearings
Allow the body to rotate around the axle
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79 How Howww How HH ww th th they y wor wo wor wor wor wor wor w kkkk
MAINTAINING YOUR TRANSMISSION PEDALS
Pedal axle
The axle of a pedal is usually made from
steel and the crankarms from aluminum
alloy. This creates an interface where a
chemical reaction can take place between
the two metals, so it is important that you
coat the threads with grease before you put
pedals on your bike. The tools for removing
the axles are specific to the brand and model
of the pedals, and are either supplied with
the pedals or available at a good bike shop.
Most pedals contain two bearings on
which the pedal body revolves around its
axle. These sometimes need replacing; in
the case of ball bearings, they need regular
cleaning, checking, and greasing.
Pedal axles can be damaged by an impact
or during a fall, and a bent axle can cause
riding discomfort or even injury. After
removing the pedals, rotate their axles
by hand, feeling for the tight spots that
are evidence of a bent axle.
Removing and
lubricating a pedal axle
Place a wrench on the flats of the axle to
remove a pedal.
Turn the wrench counterclockwise for the right

pedal, which has a right-hand thread, and clockwise
for the left pedal, which has a left-hand thread.
Steady the opposite crankarm with your hand

to give you something to push against.
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Lift the axle from the pedal once you
have fully unscrewed the retainer nut.
Clean the axle with degreaser and inspect it.

If the axle is bent, it will need to be replaced.
Replace the bearings on the end of the axle if

they are worn.
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Toolbox
15mm bike spanner
Remover tool
Degreaser
Grease
Parts of a pedal
Pedal body
Cleat-release
mechanism
Release tension
adjuster
Retainer
Pedal axle
Wrench
flats
80
STEP LOCATOR
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Pedal axle
Hold the removed pedal, with the axle
upward, in a vise.
Remove the axle by using a remover tool that

fits over the knurled retainer connecting the axle
to the pedal.
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Hold the cone with one wrench and remove
the locknut with another. The cone and
locknut hold the bearings on the end of the axle.
Remove the cone, then the old bearings. Clean

the end of the axle.
Set the new bearings in grease and screw the

cone back on top of them. Then lock the cone
with the locknut.
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Grease the inner bearing to prolong its
life. If it is worn, the whole axle assembly
must be replaced.
Push some grease down into the bearing after

cleaning the axle. To reassemble the pedal, carry
out Steps 14 in reverse order.
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Ensure that the remover tool fits snugly
onto the retainer. The retainer may be
damaged if you do not.
Place a wrench on the flats of the remover tool

in place and turn it to remove the retainer.
Turn the wrench clockwise for the right axle

retainer, which has a left-hand thread, and
counterclockwise for the left axle retainer, which
has a right-hand thread.
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81
MAINTAINING YOUR TRANSMISSION PEDALS 82
Clipless pedals were developed in response
to the racing cyclists need to apply power
throughout the entire pedal revolution.
They hold the foot to the pedal by locking
onto a cleat attached to the sole of the
shoe. The mechanism that holds the cleat is
spring-loadedthe foot is released by
turning the heel outward.
The release spring is an essential working
part and must be kept clean and well
lubricated. Use light oils on road pedals
and heavier oils on off-road pedals. Wipe oil
off the pedal body to stop your foot from
slipping. The mechanism lets the foot pivot
around its long axis during each revolution.
The oil applied to the release spring is enough
to keep the mechanism working well.
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These easy-to-maintain
pedals have a small
Allen bolt on top of the
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Clipless pedals
Toolbox
15mm bike wrench
Degreaser
Stiff brush
Oil
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to to to to ee eng ng ngage ee an an an and d d re re rele le leas as ssse e e e th th th thee eee fe fe fe ffeeet et et et w wwit t it it th hhh hh eq eq eq equa ua ual
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ac ac ac acco o co ord rd rd rddiin in n ii g gg g to to oo t hhowwwwwwwwwww mm mmmm mmuc uc uc uuch h h hh hh hh h mo mo oove ve vee veme me me meent nnt nnt yyyou o r
fe fe fe fe ffe feet et eet et eeee m mmm mmak aak ak ak ak a e e e ddddddu ddu du ddddddd ri ri innng nng ng ng ng nn pp ppppp pppppped ed edaaaaal al al aaaa in n in ng. g. g. g
ROAD PEDALS
Peda Peda Peda P dal bo bo l bo boody dy dy d
Release e
tens tens ten ten ten ten tteee ion i
adju adju adjuster ster ster ster ster ster ster e ster e
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To Top op op op op fa fa fa fa ace ce ce ce ce ce
Bot Bot Bot Bot Bot Bot Bottom to ttom to tom fa fa fa fa f ce cce c
Rete Rete Rete Rete R e RRe ntio ntio ntio ntio ntio ntio tio t nnnn
mech mech m h ch hanis anis nis is anis anis aanismmmmmmmmm
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Back Back Back pla pla pla pla pla plate te te te te te
Rele Rele Rele Rele Rele Rele Rele Rele ele Rele ele Rel e ase ase ase ase ase se ase ase se ase as
spri spri spri sp sp sp ng ng ng ng ngg
Clipless pedals 83
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whe whe whe whe whe whe he he he hhhe he w re re re e e re e re re re re the the the the the the the the the e the re re relea lease se bar bar
ent ent ent ent ent n ent ent ent en ent t n ers ers ers ers ers ers ers ers s e sss th th th th th thh thh thh t e p e peda eda e l bbody ody ody. .
If If If If If If f ff If f If ne nec nec nec nec nec ne nneccceeeeeess es ess ess es eesss ary ary, r , repl eep ace ace a th t e
bea bea bea bea bea bea bea bea be bbea beearin rin rin rin rin rin rin rin nn r nngs gs and and aax a les es ( ((see ee
pp. pp. pp. pp pp. .88888880 80 888 111). ))
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spri spri sp nng
Rete Rete te R ntio nt ntio tion b n b n ba n barrrr
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usi using ng a g a grea rease e se gun gun an an an an an an n an an ndd dd d ddd
a special adaptor tha at i iiii t issssssss
sold with th th th ttt e p e peda edals ls.
OFF-ROAD PEDALS
Axle Axle xle AAA e
thre thre thre thre tt read d ad ad
Rete Rete entio ntio ntioooooonnnnnnnnn
mech mmechanis anis nis nis nis nis nis nis nis ni mmmmmm
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Bot Bot Bot t Bot Bottom tom tom tom tom tom om fa fa fa fa fa fa aaa fa face ce ce ccccccc
Pla P n view ew www
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Top Top Top Top Top o face e
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adju dju djuu djuuu juuuuuuuu j ster ster ster ster ster ster ster sterr er ster ster ster ster ster ster
Rete R t ntion bar
Axle th thread ad ad
Rete Rete e Re e Re nntion bar
Peda Pedal ax a le
Rete Rete Rete ete e ntio nntio n n sp sp n ring
Release-tension on o
adju j dju j aa ster er sterrr
Rete Rete Ret Rete Rete R ntio ntio nt ntio ntioon sp nn spring ri ri ri ring
Rete etentio ntio nn n sp n sppring ring
MAINTAINING YOUR DRIVETRAIN PEDALS
Pedal cleats
Clipless pedals are designed to hold your feet
firmly in place, so it is important that the
cleats on the pedals are positioned correctly
on the sole of your shoes. The right position
also enables you to transfer the maximum
amount of leg power into the pedals.
Once you have set up the cleats, you
might find that your feet try to return to
their natural position as you ride. Alter the
cleats angle to accommodate this. However,
do not alter its fore and aft position because
the position shown here is the most efficient
for applying power to the pedals.
The steps in this sequence show an off-
road pedal (see pp.823), but the principles
are the same for road pedals.
Fitting a pedal cleat
Put on your cycling shoes and mark them
on the outer side where your foot is widest.
This point is usually slightly behind the smallest
toe and is in line with the ball of the foot. The
aim of setting up a cleat is to make sure that
this part of your foot is exactly above the pedal
axle when you ride.
111111111111111111111111111111111111111
Put on your cycling shoes and sit on your
bike, engaging the cleats in the pedals.
Ask someone to check from the side that the

initial mark you made is over the pedal axle.
Go for a ride and check whether your feet try

to turn in or out on the pedals.
444444444444444444444444444444444444444444
Toolbox
White marker pen
Silicone sealant
Allen keys
Screwdriver
Fixing
bolts
Cleat
Recessed cleat plate Recessed cleat plate
In-shoe threads for fixing bolts
STEP LOCATOR
11111111111111111111111111111111111111 2222222222222222222222222222222222222222 3333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333 4444444444444444444444444444444444444444 55555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555 66666666666666666666666666666666666666666666
Parts of a pedal cleat
84
Pedal cleats
Take off your shoes and continue the mark
you made with a straight line across the
sole of your shoe, from outside to inside. This line
must be at right angles to the initial mark and
should end on the inner side of the shoe, in line
with the initial mark.
222222222222222222222222222222222222222222
Adjust the cleats to accommodate any foot
position changes your test ride reveals, but
keep the cleat centered over the axle.
Mark the sole of your shoes all around the

cleat, so that you can line it up again.
Remove the cleat, put anti-seize compound on

the screw threads, and line the cleat up with the
marks you made. Tighten the cleat.
555555555555555555555555555555555555555555
Seal the Allen heads on the bolts that
secure the cleats to off-road shoes. These
heads can fill with grit, causing them to lose
shape and making it difficult to replace the cleats
when they wear down. Prevent this by filling the
Allen heads with blobs of a silicone sealant
available from the hardware store.
66666666666666666666666666666666666666
Place the cleat on the shoe so that the line
runs exactly through its center. Some cleats
are marked to help with this alignment.
Make sure that the horizontal axis of the cleat

is exactly parallel with the line you made.
Secure the cleat in place with the screws or

Allen bolts provided.
33333333333333333333333333333333333333
85
Steering gives you control
of a bikes handling and
direction. Regularly check
and maintain the headset,
handlebar, wheels, and
hubs to safeguard their
reliability at all times.
STEERING AND WHEELS HEADSETS
HEADSETS
A headset allows the bike to be steered. The h headdseet tt m mmmmuuuuus us ss usttttttt
be properly adjusted to allow smooth, safe stteerin ng g aan an nnnddd
to prolong its life. The bearings and bearing su urfac ces sss
need regular inspection and lubrication, and anyt y hi inng ggg
that is worn must be replaced at once.
How they work
The main function of the headset is to enable the rider
to change the direction of the front wheel under any
conditions. There are two types of headsets, threaded
and threadless, and both hold the front fork securely
in the head tube, while simultaneously allowing the
fork to turn freely.
The headset rotates on bearings, which are held in
place by cups, one above the head tube, the other below.
For the forks to turn freely, these two cups press on the
bearingss jjus ustt en enou ough gh ttoo pr prev even entt an anyy pl play ay iin n the part of
th the fo fork rkk kkno nown wn aass th thee st stee e rer tu tube. Th Thee e wa wayy th th this is p presssur ur uu ee
(a (also knnow own n aas loa oad) d)) iis s achiiev eveed varies be bbetw twee eeenn nn th th theeee
three re read ad ad ded ed ed aa and nd dd nd tttthr hr hr hr hrea ea eaaddl dl dles es ess s he h ad dddse se sets ts t . .
THR THR TH T EAD EAD E LESS HEA EADSET ANATO OMMY
Top bearings
Allow the steerer tubbbbbbe ttooo
turn in the headset
Spacer
Sits on top of the be be beearinngs ng g
Fork crownnn
Turns the forrk rk r
Thhe e stem cap bolt at
the top of a threaadl dless
headset screws into a
star washer below.
Some types of threadless
headsets contain a wedge
instead of a star washer.
When the stem cap bolt
is turned with an Allen
key, it pushes the stem
and spacer down on to
the bearings in both the
top and bottom cups,
and pulls up the steerer
tube at the same time.
This places sufficient load
on the bearings for the
fork to turn freely with
no play. T TTThe h stem is
secured in place on the
steerer by tightening two
clamp bolts (not visible
on the h illustration).
Stem cap p bol bol boltt
Pulls the steerer
tube upward
Top cup
Loads the
bearings
Bottommmm
bearings gs gs gs
Allow the he he he
fork to tuurn ur ur
Bottom cup
Loads the
bearings
Stem
Links handlebar aan annd heead eeeee set
Steerer tube
Connects the fork
to the headset
88
Star washhher
Gri Gr ps the st st steerer tube
Ste Ste tem c m c m clam lam a p p bolts
Cla C mp steeem t m t m t m to s o s o tee te rer tube
St Ste e SSt SSt eri ri e ng ng ng g nng g eff eff f e eect ct ct ectiive vely ly
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the tthe ee the the e the the ee the ttthe ee hee fffffffffooo fo ffffo foo ffo fo fooo foo fo fo fo f rk rk rk rk rk kkkk rk rk rk k rk rk rk rk rk k rk kkk rk rk k k kk k aand and and aand ndd aaaan aan nd aaa th th thh th th th tt e f e f ff e ff e fron ron ron on rrr t w tt w t w t w w t w t whe he ee hee ee hheelll. l
Screwing the he top c cup u d dow own the thhre r ad of th h the st steeerer
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thhee fo fork rk kkss tu tu tu tu t rn rn ff fre reely yy but wi w thout play. The cupp, and nd
conseq eq eque uue u nt ntly ly tthe he ffro oont nt nt t ffor ork, is s then loc ocke kked in in pla a la ace ce ce
by by byy aa lockrinng g th thhat aa als ls soo o sc s rews d down n th the th h thre read ddd aded ee
st tee eere rerr. The e ssteem mm iis is atttac ache hed d to o tthe h hea eads dset et by
tiigh g teni ing t the s ssste te te tem m ms s ex ex ex xxppa ppaand nder e bolt, whi hich ch ppul ulls ls
uup p a w wed e gee aand d nd j jjjam am ams ss s th thh th th th t e eee st s em ms q qui uill ll ins ns nsid iddee ee th th thheeee
h thhre read aded e ste teer rer e ...
THR HREAD AD ADED ED E HEA HEADSE ET A T ANAT N TOMY YY
Stem
Li inks the
handle dlebar
and nd heads dset e
QQuill
Fit Fit tttttttss ii sss ns nsi n de the the
threadd ea ed
steere er rr
Loc L kring g
Locks the th topp
cup up in in in pl place
Wed Wedge ge e ge
JJam ams t s hee e qqui quill ll in
the the st steerreer er e
For Fo Fo For For or For For Forr or orr F r FForrrkkkkkkkkkk
HHHHHo Ho Hol Hol Hol Hol Ho ol Hol Ho Hol ol ol Ho Hool lldds ds ds ds ds ds ds ds ds s ds d an and and nd dd nd nd aa d and and aand nd ttu tu tu tuu tuuurrns rns ns ns rns rn rn nss rn rn rn
th th the h th the th the th the th th th the th th theee ffffr fr ffr ffr fr fr ffr fr fr rr fr fr fr rron ont on oont on on onnt t nt oont ont onnn oo tt oonnt nnt on on ont ntt on onn ont on ont wh wwh whh wwh wh wwh wh whee ee ee eeel eel eel ee
To Top op be beari i ri arinngs ng
All Alloow tthe steerer
to o o tur urn ii n n t n he
hea headset
Bottom o beeari a nngs
Alloow w the fork
to o tturn
89
Top TT cup
Loa ads ds dss the h t
beaaarin rin ri gs gs
Thr hrea ead ad ded e steere e r
Con on C nec nec ec ects t the
hea adse d t to
the t fork
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hhhhhe he hea hea he hea hea hea ea a hheaa heaa ea ea ea hhea a hhe he heaa hhea hea aaa h aa hhhhea heaaa h d t d t dd t d t d t d t d tt d t d dd t d t ddddd t d t dd t ddd tt d t dddd t ddd t d t d tube ub ub ub ube be bbbbbbee ub ube ube ube be ube ub ubbbbbbe ube ub ube uub ubb ubbbb ube bbe ee
Ha Han HHHHa Ha Ha Han Ha Han ann Ha Ha Han ann HHa Ha Hannn Han Ha Han Han an HHHa Hann H n HHa Ha Hann Ha an Han H n H nn HH ndle dddddl dl dl dle dle dle dle e dle dle dddle dle dle dl dle dl dle dle dd e ddle dle dle dddle dle dl dle dle e dle ee d e le l bbbbar bar bar ar bar bar bbar ba ba ba bar bar ar bbar ba bar bbar bbarr bbar ar bbbar bba bbba baar rr b rr bar b
SSSSSSSSt Ste ttte Ste Ste SSSSte tte tee Ste Ste Ste Ste St St St Ste te te te SSte SSSte SSSte Ste SSSt St te SSte e SSSte SSSte Ste SS e Stte S e S ers eer er eeer er ers rs erss rs rs rs ss eeeer er ers rs rs rs eeeerrs rs sss eerrs s ee s rs sssss e sss e th th th th th tth hh th h th tth th th th tth th tth t th th th tth th t tth th th th hheeeeeeeeeeeee
ffffro ffro froo fffro fr fro fro fro ro ro fr ffffro fro fro fro ro roo rooo f oo fffro froo f o ro ffro fr fr fr roonnt nt nt nt nt nt t nt nt nt t nt nt nnnnnt nnnnnnt nt nnnnnt nnn wwwwwwh wh wh wh wh wh wh wh he he he he he he www ee wh wwwwh wh wh hhe eeeeeee wwh wwh wh he ee wwh he w e whhhee he whhhee w eeelllll el el eeel el elll el eel ell el el eeeel
Expandeer bool ol olttt
Draws up p up the the h wedge dge ge
Threadless headset
To determine whether your bike is equipped
with a threadless or a threaded headset, look
at the stem. If you can see bolts on the side
of the part that sits on top of the head tube,
it is a threadless headset.
A number of different types of threadless
headsets can be fitted to modern bikes.
These range from the type that has both top
and bottom cups, like the traditional headset,
to others, such as the headset illustrated
here, where the bearing surfaces fit inside
the head tube. All the various types of
headsets work on the same principle and
are taken apart in a similar way.
Occasionally, you need to strip down the
headset in order to check it for wear and to
clean and lubricate the bearings. If you find
any cups or bearing surfaces are worn, you
will need to replace the whole headset. This
job requires special equipment and is best
left to the experts in a good bike shop.
Adjusting and cleaning a
threadless headset
Remove the stem cap bolt from the center
of the stem cap with an Allen key. This bolt
loads the headset to prevent play in it, rather
than securing the stem.
111111111111111111111111111111111111111111
Lower the fork and lift off the top spacers
and either the top cup or bearing cover,
depending on the type of threadless headset.
Clean, degrease, and look at the bottom bearing.

If there are no signs of wear, grease the bearing.
Take the centering wedge out of the head tube.

Clean the bearings, bearing surfaces (inset), and tt
bearing cover or top cup . Examine for wear, put
new grease on the bearings, and reinstall.
444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444
Toolbox
Degreaser
Grease
Parts of a threadless headset
Bottom cup
Stem cap bolt
Stem cap
Top bearing
cover Top race
90
STEP LOCATOR
11111111111111111111111111111111111111 22222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222 33333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333 4444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444 55555555555555555555555555555555555555555555555
Threadless headset
Loosen the clamp bolts on the side of the
stem once you have removed the cap bo bolt lt.
The stem and handlebar assembly are now now free.
It is the stem clamp bolts that securee the stemm
to the steerer.
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Tak Tak h e h ld old f of th th f e front f t fork o , then lift the
steem and handle dlebar b from the steerer. You
ccan an le leave ave th th these ese ese to to to ha ha hang ng ng out out of of th th the w e w e way, ay, su suppo p rted
by bbby th the e br brake ake an and g d gear ear ca cable b s. s
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91
Put the fork back into o the hea ad t tuube
and replace the centerin ng wedgge, bbe bearringg
cover, and spacers.
Put the handlebar and stem backk onn t top op p

of the steerer.
Load the headset by t y tightenin ng thee ssteem c cap

bolt to a point wher ere the hand andllebaar tu turnns fre freelyy,,
but there is no pl plaay in the he headset. et. S Seccure t the
stem in place byy tightenin ing the clampp b p bolt ts.
Apply the f front brak ke and t trry to puuush thhe bik bikee
forward to mmake sure re the he eadset t iis s not not loose.
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Threaded headset
Older bikes and childrens bikes are equipped
with threaded headsets. This type of headset
is designed to make it easy to raise and
lower the stem whenever you want to
change the height of the handlebar and
adjust your riding position.
The headsets top cup and the locknut
that holds it in place are both screwed onto
the steerer. The stem is equipped with a shaft,
or quill, that fits inside the steerer. For safety
reasons, you should never raise a stem above
the limit marked on its quill.
On some even older headsets, the top cup
screws down. Its serrated top edge is held in
place by a clamp bolt on a similarly serrated
lockring assembly. When the clamp bolt is
loosened, the top cup screws off.
Remember to disconnect the brakes
before you start working on the headset
and make sure that you reconnect them
when you are finished. Before the stem
is replaced into the steerer of the headset,
coat the quill with grease (see pp.301).
Servicing a threaded
headset
Undo the Allen bolt in the stem center and
knock it downward with a plastic mallet
to free the steerer. The stem is secured into the
steerer by an expander bolt, which, as it is
tightened, draws a wedge up inside the quill.
Lift the stem from the steerer.

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Degrease all the bearing surfaces of the
top and bottom cups and of the races. You
can access the top bearings by pushing the fork
up the head tube and holding it there.
Inspect the bearing surfaces. If any are

damaged, you need a new headset; this is best
left to a good bike shop.
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Toolbox
6mm Allen key
Grease
Degreaser
30mm
and 32mm headset wrenches
Plastic mallet
Parts of a threaded headset
Fork crown race
Top cup
Bottom cup
Locknut
Spacer
Top race
92
STEP LOCATOR
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Threaded headset
Unscrew the locknut while holding the top
cup still with a headset wrench.
Spread newspaper on the floor to catch loose

bearings that may drop out of the top cup.
Lift off the spacers, then unscrew the top cup

upward from the steerer.
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Grease both the top and bottom bearings
or set loose bearings in grease inside each cup.
Completely unscrew the top cup to remove

the bearings. Set the bearings individually in the
greased cups and screw the top cup back on.
Bearings held in cages can be greased in situ
provided they are not worn out.
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Screw the top cup down onto the top
bearings. Replace the spacers and locknut.
Adjust the top cup so that steering is free.
Pull the fork to make sure there is no forward

movement in the headset.
Replace the spacer, hold the top cup with a

wrench, and tighten the locknut onto it.
Replace the stem and handlebar.

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Lower the fork to reveal the bearings in
the bottom cup. Screwing the top cup
upward allows this to happen. Although most
headsets have ball bearings held in cages, watch
out for loose bearings that may drop out of the
bottom cup. Some headsets have roller bearings
treat these as ball bearings in the following steps.
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93
STEERING AND WHEELS HANDLEBARS
Owners of road bikes sometimes want to
change the handlebar to a different shape,
often to suit the proportions of their body or
because of their cycling needs. Some cyclists
want to replace a drop handlebar with a
straight, or flat, bar. Others may want to
replace their existing straight bars with riser
bars, or vice versa. Riser bars, which are fitted
to mountain bikes, are straight in the center,
then rise up to become straight where the
grips are. They are installed the same way as
a straight handlebar.
The steps in this sequence apply to all
straight handlebars, whatever the reason for
replacing them. However, when replacing a
drop handlebar with a straight bar, it will be
necessary to swap the brake levers for levers
that work with flat or riser bars. Some of
these steps will also be useful when fitting
new grips, brake levers, gear-shift levers, or
bar-ends to an existing handlebar.
Installing a straight
handlebar
Remove any raised pieces of metal inside
the stem clamp with a medium, half-round
file (inset). Smooth the area with emery paper. tt
Place the straight handlebar into the stem clamp

and screw in the clamp bolts. Make sure the bar is
centered before tightening it fully. If you are
fitting a riser bar, decide what angle of sweep
you want before tightening the bolts.
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Toolbox
Half-round file
Emery paper
Ruler
Hairspray
94
STEP LOCATOR
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HANDLEBARS
Most modern bikes are equipped with either straight or drop
handlebars. A rider must be able to rely totally on the handlebar, so
for safety reasons, a handlebar must be replaced at once if scratches,
stress marks, or cracks develop on the surface.
Straight handlebar
Parts of a straight handlebar
Plastic plug p g
Straight
handlebar
Brake lever Brake lever
Clamp bolt
Gripp
Ring
clamp
Shifter unit r unit
Bar-end
Straight handlebar
Slide the grips onto the handlebar while
they are still wet with hairspray.
Push the grips farther on if you are fitting bar-

ends to allow for the width of the bar-end clamp.
Fit grip-locks to hold the grips in place and

prevent them from twisting while you are riding.
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Clamp on the bar-ends. Line them up
parallel with the angle of your stem to
begin with, then adjust their angle to suit your
own preference after riding.
Put a plastic plug in each end of the handlebar

to prevent injury in the event of a fall.
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Spray hairspray into the handlebar grips to
help the grips slide onto the handlebar.
When the hairspray dries, the grips will fit tightly
to the handlebars.
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Secure the ring clamp of the brake lever
to the handlebar. Like road brake levers,
off-road levers have a ring clamp that fits over
and secures them to the handlebar. Some off-road
brake levers have integrated shift levers with only
one clamp. However, some are separate and there
are two clamps to go over the handlebar.
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95
STEERING AND WHEELS HANDLEBARS
Drop handlebar
Road-riding cyclists often fit a drop
handlebar to their bikes so their bodies can
adopt a lower, more aerodynamic posture.
However, the handlebar should never be
positioned so low that breathing is restricted
when holding the bottom of the bar.
Replace a drop handlebar at once if any
cracks develop on its surface. The steps in
this sequence will show how to replace a
drop handlebar and how to fit, and therefore
how to reposition, brake levers. Cyclists with
larger hands and long arms may prefer to
mount the levers lower down the handlebar
than the ideal position shown here.
Regularly replace the handlebar tape as
shown in Steps 5 and 6, and insert a plug in
each end of the handlebar after taping to
help prevent injury in a fall.
Brake levers for flat handlebars will not
work on drop handlebars, and may not work
with all brake types. Check the compatibility
of your components before swapping.
Installing a drop
handlebar
Use a medium, half-round file to remove
any raised areas of metal inside the part
of the stem that clamps the bar in place. These
raised areas can bite into the handlebar, eventually
causing them to fracture.
Smooth the filed surface with emery paper.

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Secure the levers of a Campagnolo
brake/shift to the handlebar by tightening
a bolt on the outside of the hood with an Allen
key. Pull the lever hood cover forward to access
the bolt. The bolt on Shimano levers is farther
down the outer side of the lever hood, so
you need to put your Allen key into a recess
under the rubber cover.
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Toolbox
Half-round file
Emery paper

Parts of a drop handlebar
Brake lever
hood
Drop handlebar
Handlebar tape
Rubber cover
Cable groove
96
STEP LOCATOR
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Brake lever
Drop handlebar
Fit the new handlebar and tighten up the
clamp bolts. Before you secure the bolts,
try to line up the flat part of the bottom of the
han ndlebar with a point just below the back brake.
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Start taping at one en end off
the handlebar.
Wind upward, coverin ng ha half f

of the previous turn wi with e each ch
subbsequent turn.
Keep the tape tight a at all ll ti timess.

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Pull the cover of of thhe
brake lever hoood
forward and place aa shorrt
length of tape oveerr each h
steel ring.
Wind t thhe tape in one e tur rn

from t m the bottom to th he top p off th the ee
levveer hood. When yoou reaach ch thhe
top top of the handleb ebar, secu ure tthe e
tape with el eleectrical tap ape.
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Slide the steel ring of the brake lever over
the handlebar. This ring clamps the lever
to the handlebar.
Attach the bolt in the brake lever hood to the

screw thread on the ring and tightenn.
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97
STE STE STE TE STEERI ERI ERI ERI ING NG NG NN AND AND ND ND D WH WH WH WWHEEE EEL E S S S S HUB B H BSSS
HHHHHUUUUBBBBBBSSSS
Th Th Th Th her er er er ere ee ar ar aare e e tw tw tww twwo o o o ty ty ty ty t pe pe pe pes s sss of of of of o hhh hhub ub ub ub ub b, , op op op op op op o en en en en en-b -b -b bbbea ea ea ea e ri ri ri ri rring ng ng ng g ng a aa aaaaa aaand nd d nd ddd nd dd nd d nd d nnd dddd nddd cccc cc ccccccaaaar aar aaar aar r ar a tr tr tr ttr tr tr tr tr ttr tr tr rrr trid id id d id id dd id id d id id id id dd id id dddddd id i ge gggge ge ge ge ge ge ge ee ge ge ge gge gge e gge ge gge ee ge eee gggggggggee ge ggg . .. .. . .. .. .. Th Th Th Th Th Th Th Th Th Th Th Th Th Th Th Th Th hhhh TTh Th TTh TThh Th Th Th TTh hhhh Th hh Thh T eeee ee ee ee e ee e ee eeeeeeee eeeee e co co co co co co co co cco oooooooo co co co co co co o cco co co co co co co co co co co co coo ccoo cone ne ne ne ne ne ne ne ne eee ne ne ne ne ne e ne nne ne ne ne ne ne ne ne ne ee ne nne nne nne nne e ne ee neeeeee nnne ne nneessssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss
an an an n a d dd d d be be be bear ar ar arin in in ings gs gs oooffff f op op p op open en en en n-b -b -b -b bea ea ea e ri ring ng ng gg hhhh hhhub ub b ub ub ub ub uu s ss mu mmu mu mu mmust st st st st ttt be be be be e bbbe be bbbeee ad ad d ad ad ad dd ad ad ad ad dd ad ad aa ju ju ju ju jjjju ju ju u ju jjju ju ju uuuuu tttt st st st t st sst ttttttt st ssst st st st ttt st st t st sssss d ed dd ed ed ed dd ed ed ddd ed dd ed dd ed eed ddd ed d eed ed ed ed eeeddddd ttttttttttttttt ttttttttt tttttto oo oo o oooooooooo oo ooooo ooooo le le le le le le le le le e le le e le eee le le ee l ttttttttt t t t t t t t tttttttttttttttt th th th th tth th th th th th h th hh th th th hh th hh th th th th th th th h th th ttth th th th th th th ttth h th hhh t eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
hu hu hu hu hubs bs bs bs sssspi i pi pin n n fr fr free ee eely ly ly, , wi wi wi wi with th th thh llllit it it it t ittl tl tll tle e e e pl pl l pl pl p ay ay ay ay ay. . . Th Th Th Th h Th h Th Th T e ee e e e be be be be be be e bear ar ar ar arin in n in in ngs gs gs s gggs gs gs gs gggs gs gs in in in in in in in in in nn bo bo bbo bo bo bo bo bo bbbbo bo oo bo bb th th th th thhh ttth th tthhh thh thh th tth th th thh th tth tt ttt tttttt ttt tttt ttttyp yp yp yp yp yp yp yp yp yp p yp ypp yp yp ppppppp yyp y es es es es es ees s es es es es es es s es es es s es es sssssssss eessss o oooooo oooo oo oooooo ooo oooooooooooooofffffffff ffff f ffffffff f ff fffffff ff f f fff fff ff ffff f f fffff hu hu hu hu hu hu hu hu hu hu hu hu hu hu hu hu hu hu hu hu hu hhu hu hu hu hu hhu hu hhu u huuu hu u hu hu u hu hu huu hhu hhubbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
ne ne ne need eed ed d rr rreg eg eg eg e uul ul ul u ar ar ar rr cccc che he he h ck ck ck ckin in in in n ing g ggg an aand ddd d lu lu lu lubr br br bbric ic ic ic ic i at at at t at at atin in in n iiin n in n in in ngg. gggggggggg
HHHHoooowwwww ttttthhhhheeeeyyyy wwwwwooooooorrrrrrrkkkkkkk
Th Th Th Thhhh Thee e e eee hu hu hu hu u hhh b bb b b al al al al aa lo lo lo lows ws ws w t ttt tthe he he he he he www wwhe he hhe heeel el el el e tt tto o ooo re rre reee revo vo vo vo vo volv lv lv llvee. eee QQ QQQui i ui ui ui uick ccck ck k ck---
re re re re rr lee lee le llle leaas aas s as as se eeeeee me me me me mm ch ch ch ch c an an an an an a is is isssmmms ms ms oo oorrr r nu nu nu nu uts tss ts sss ssec ec ec ecuur ur ur ureee e th th th the ee ax aax ax axle eee
in inntto to tt the hhh b bik ikk ike ee ss s ffr fr fr fram am ameee. TTThhhe axl xle re rema m in ins s s st st st ttttat at at atic ic ic cc
wh wh wh whil il il ileee th th th the hhub body s spi pins n aro round d on on bbea ea e ri ri rii rinnng ng ngs. s. s. s.
Sp Spokes run n from mm th the e hu hu hh b b bb s sss fl f an ange es ss to toooo tttthe he he h rr rrim im im mm
of oof the he h w whe heellasss as tthe hub ub sspi pins ns ns n , , , so so so soo dd dddoe oee ooes s ss th th th th the ee e ee ri ri ri ri ri r mm. m. m. mmm
Th TTT e e dr drivet etra ra rain in tt tttra raa rr ns nsfe fers rss ttt the he rr rrid iddeer er ers s s pp ppppow ow ow ow ow ower er err err e
fr f ommm tthe he eee p pp ped eddal als s to too to tt tthe he e r rr rea ea eaar r wh wh wh whee ee eeeel, l, l, w wwhi hi hi hi ile le leee tttt tttthe he he he he he he e hhe
frrrron on oo t t wh wh w ee ee ee l l iis ess ssen ennti ti ti tiaal ally ly ly pp ppus us us sshe he he hhhh d d d al al al alon on on ong g g g g gg by by by by by by by y ttt the he he he he heeee
rrevo vo vo v lu l ti ti ion on nns s of of tthe he he rr rea ea ee r. r. r. r. r TT TThe he he he gggea ea ea ars rs rs s oooon n n nn a a aa a aa bi bi bi bi biike ke ke ke kkeee aaaaa aare re re re re reee rre
loooca ca c te tee ted d dd on on tthe he he e rr rrea ea ea e r r hu hu hub, b, b, b, eee eit it itthe he he er r r as as as as s aaaa hh hhhub ub ub ub ubbb ubbb-g -g -g -g --gggea ea ea earrrr
un un u it it it i oo or r r aas as a mmul ul ul lti ti t pl pl pp e e co co cc gs gs gs iiin n n th th th th th the e e eeee cca ca ca ca case se se se ee se se s ooo offffffff
de deera rail ille leur ur r g gea ea ears rs rs..
Th Th The e fr fr free ee ewh wh wh whee ee ee el l l me me me me m ch ch ch chan an an an n an nis is is s ism, m, m, mmmm, www wwhi hi hi hii h ch ch ch ch ch hh iiii iss s s s al al al al aal aaaa so so so soooo so ssooo ooo ooooo ooonnnnnnnnnnnnn
th the e e re re rear ar ar hhhub uub ub u , , al al allo lo lo ows ws ws ws w aaa aa rrr rid ddddder er er er er t ttttto o oooo t st st st st stop op op op op opp op p pppp pppppped ed ed ed edd ed edddd edd edal al aal al al aa in in in n in ingggggggggggggg
wh wh wh w il ile ee e th th th t e e e e e e bi bi iike ke ke ke iiiis s s in in in in i mm mmot ot ott ot otio io io ionnnnnfo fo ffo fo fo ffo ffo ffor r r r rrr ex ex ex ex ex ex eeeexam am am am am amm am am am aa pl pl pl pl pl pl pl ppl ple, e, e, e, ee, e, e, e, e ooo ooooo oo onnnn n nnn nnnnn nnnnn
aa a do do d wn wn wn ww hi hi hi hi hill ll ll ll l s ssstr tr tttret et et etch ch ch ch ch ooo ooooof f ff ro ro ro o ro r ad ad ad addddddd. . . Th Th Th Th Th Th Th Thhhhis is is is is is iis is iis iss m mmm mm mec ec ec ec eec ec ecc eccha ha ha ha ha ha haa haaa ha ha ha hh ni ni ni nnni ni ni ni nn sm sm sm sm sm sm sm sm sm sm sm sssm sm ii ii iiiiissssssssssssss
pa part rt rt ooo oof f f th th th tthe e e hu hu hu hu u hub b b b b in in in in in b bb bbbbot ot ot ot ottt o h h h h hh hhhh hu hu hu hu hu hu hhh bb b b b bb b ge ge ge ge ge ge geeeee g ar ar aaar r aar rs s ssss s s s sss an aaan an an an aan an a d d d d dd dddd hu hu hu hu u hu u hu hu hu hu uu hu hhu huu h bs bbbs bs bs bs bbs bbs bbbs bs bs bss bbss bs bssss
wi wi wi with th th th cccas as as sse e se se s tt tt tt tt tte e ee co co o co co co cc gs gs gs gs gs gs gss. . . .
Th The axlee oof a cart rtridge hub b is nott thr h eaded, so thhe e bearings are
pushed o ont n o each e end o of f the axle and cover reed by a seal. Wh Wh W en
th t e hub is assembl bled, the bearings sit in the hu h b body, just to
th t e e outs tside of the flaanges, witth the a axle running through h them.
Lo L ckring gs s en e su s re that everything is held i in place.
EXPLOD LODED ED E CAR CA TRIDGE HU UB
Hub Hub bo bo b dy d
Con Co tai ins ns thee
axl xx ee
Sea Seall
Cov o ers th he
bea be rings
Axl xle
Rot tatees t s t s he
wheel
Cartri tridge dg
bea b rings gs
Sup Suppor port the he
hub bo b dyy
98
Flange e
Anc n hors the
spokes to
the hubb
Min MMin Min Min n Minimi imi im imi imizin zin zin zin zin in in nnng f g f g f g f g f f g f g f g f g f gggg ric ric ric ric ric ric ric ric ric ricccctio tio tio tio ti tio tio tio tio t oo ttt nnnnnnnnn
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par par par par par r p t o t o t o o t o ooof f a f a f a f a fff an e n e n e e n e nn e n effi ffi ffi ffi ffi ffi ffi ff ff f cie cie cie cie cie ie ie cie i cie ciee c nt nt nt nt nt nt nt tt nt ttt nt ttt t bik bik bik bik bik bik bik bbik bbbikkk bikk bik bb ke. e. ee. ee. e. e. eeeee. ee. e. e. e. e The The TThe The The The The The The The The e The e The The h Th Th Thh TThhh Th iir iir r ir ir ir ir iir ir r ir ir
bea bea bea bea ea bea eaa b rin rin in rin rin rin rin ri rrrin ngs gs ggs gs ggs gggs mus mus mus mus mus mmus mus mus s mus muus sst c t c t c t c t c t c t c t c ccc t rea rea rea rea rea rea rea rea re rea eea e reaaaaate te te te te tte tee te te te te te te te te as as s as s as as as as aas as aa lit lit lit lit lit lit t lit lit lit lit lit t lit it tttttt lit i lit lit ittle tttle tle tle tle ttle tle tle tle tle tle tle tle tle tle eeeeee t e
fri fri fri fri fri fri fri friccti cti cti ct cti cti cct ct cttion on on on on n on on as as as as as s as sss pos pos pos po pos pos pos pos os p s os pppoo sib sib sib sib sib sib ssib sib sib ssiibbble, le, le, le, le le, ee le, le, le, e,,,, l so so so so so o so so so so so so so o so so so sso s s as as as as ass as a as as as as as as asssss no no no no no nnno no no no nno nno no oooott t t t t t t t t t t t t t t t t t t t t t tt t tt ttt t t t tt t tttt oooooooooooooooooooo
slo slo slo slo lo slo slo ow t w t ww t w t wwww t w t w t w ttthe he he he he he he he he he eee h rid rid rid rid id rid rid rid rid ddder er er er eer er er r eeeeee s f s f s f fff s f s f s f s f s f ffff ss ff s fffff ss orw orw orw orw orw rw orw orw orww orw orw orw orw rw oorw orw oorw rw rw ward ard ard ard ard ard ar ard ard rd ard rd rd rd rdd rd rd ard rd ard d ard rd rrr ar pr pr pr pr pr pr pr pr pr p ppr pr pr pr ppr ppr pr prr pppppp ogr ogr ogr ogr og og ogr g og ogr ogr ogr oog oog ogr g ogg oggg og ooooo eess ess ess ess ess s ess ess eess ess esss ees ess ss ess ss ess ess e s...
How they work
OPEN-BEARING FRONT HUB ANATOMY
The body on an open-bearing front hub spins on ball bearings
that are set within, and at each end of, the hub body. Each set
of bearings is held in place by a cone (not visible) that is screwed
down on the thread at the end of the axle. A locknut (not visible)
locks the cone in place on the same thread. If the hub is held by a
quick-release mechanism, the axle is hollow to allow the quick-
release skewer to go through it.
Open-bearing
front hub
Allows the wheel to
revolve smoothly
Ball
bearings
Support the
hub body
Axle
Remains static
as the wheel
revolves
Hub body
Rotates
around
the axle
Quick-release
skewer
Locks the axle
in place
99
US_098-099-hubs.qxd 6/5/08 2:30 pm Page 99 (TEXT BLACK plate)
STEERING AND WHEELS HUBS
Open-bearing hub
Hubs are available in two typesopen-
bearing or cartridge. The open-bearing hubs
require much more maintenance than the
cartridge type, since their bearings need
regular inspection, cleaning, and regreasing.
As a result, the ability to strip down and
service an open-bearing hub is a skill that
can be used repeatedly.
The following steps will help you to
remove an axle and a freehub, as well as
regrease and retighten the bearings. They
can be applied to a Shimano front or rear
hub and a Campagnolo front hub. However,
leave servicing a Campagnolo rear hub to
the experts at a bike shop because it
requires special tools.
If you are working on a rear hub, you
need to remove the cassette by following
the steps on pp.667 before tackling the
steps in this sequence.
Overhauling an
open-bearing hub
Remove the locknut on the drive side with
a wrench while holding the non-drive-side
cone with a cone wrench. Some locknuts can be
removed with an ordinary wrench, others with
an Allen key.
Keep holding the non-drive-side cone with

the cone wrench and remove the drive-side
cone with another cone wrench.
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Take out all the ball bearings from each
side and clean them with degreaser.
Replace ball bearings that are scored or have

flat spots on their surface.
Insert a layer of grease into each groove, or

race, where the ball bearings sit.
Return the ball bearings to each race, pressing

down firmly so the grease holds them in place.
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Toolbox
15mm and 16mm cone wrenches (Shimano)
13mm and 14mm cone wrenches (Campagnolo)
Grease
Grease gun (optional)
Adjustable wrench
8mm or 10mm Allen key

Parts of an open-bearing hub
Locknut
Non-drive side Drive side
Axle Spacers
Flange
Cone
Flange
Locknut
Freehub body
Hub
body
100
STE STEP LOCATOR
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Open-bearing hub
Pull the axle out from the non-drive side.
Be careful not to dislodge any of the ball
bearings as you do so.
Clean the cones and axle and then inspect

them for damage. Check to see if the axle is bent
by rolling it on a flat surface and looking for any
irregular motion. Replace damaged cones or bent
axles immediately.
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Fit the new hub body or
the cleaned old one by
reversing Step 3.
Reinsert the axle from the

non-drive side.
Tighten the drive cone up to

the bearings and make sure the
axle spins freely with minimal play.
Lock the cone into position

with the locknut.
Use the cone wrenches to check

that the non-drive cone is tight
against its locknut.
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Insert an Allen key into the 8mm or
10mm Allen bolt located in the center
of the freehub. This bolt holds the freehub
body on to the axle.
Turn the key counterclockwise to remove the

freehub. You may need a bit of force to loosen
this bolt, so use an Allen key with a long handle
for extra leverage.
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101
STEERING AND WHEELS WHEELS
Removing and replacing a wheel is a very
straightforward task, but if any of the
following steps are overlooked, the wheel
may come loose and compromise the riders
safety. The steps are for wheels that use
quick-release levers to secure them in the
dropout (the frame recess into which the axle
fits). For bikes with axle nuts, loosening and
tightening with a wrench corresponds to
unlocking and locking the quick-release lever.
Levers are labeled locked or closed on
the side facing the cyclist when the wheel is
secure, and unlocked or open when it is
not. Check levers are locked before each ride,
and during a ride if disc brakes are fitted.
The rim brake needs to be released on the
wheel being removed. For V-brakes, unhook
the cable from its cradle; for cantilevers,
unhook the straddle wire from the left brake
arm; for calipers, use the quick-release lever.
Removing a rear wheel
Release the brake, shift the chain onto
the smallest cog, and pull the quick-release
lever away from the bike into the unlocked
position. Some quick-release levers are shaped so
that they bend toward the frame when in the
locked position. This provides a visual check if
nothing is printed on the lever.
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Toolbox
Wrenches for wheels with axle nuts

Parts of the quick-release system
Quick-releasse
boddy
102
STEP LOCATOR
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WHEELS
Quick-release mechanisms help to remove and replace a wheel more
quickly than ever before. The tires are the component that make
contact with the ground. Match the tires on your bike to the prevailing
riding conditions and always be ready to replace worn-out tires.
Quick-release wheels
Quick-release Qu
ver leve
dropout Wheel
Fork
Quick-release wheels
Removing a front wheel
Hook the chain out of the way and onto
the peg situated on the inner side of the
right seat stay (if there is one).
Pull the rear derailleur back and then lift up

the rear of the bike.
Give the tire a sharp blow from above with

the heel of your hand if the wheel does not drop
forward and out of the frame.
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Lift up the bike to allow the wheel to drop
out of the fork.
Replace the front wheel by reversing Step 1.
Push the quick-release lever behind the left

fork blade to prevent anything from catching it
and opening it accidentally.
Reconnect the brake once the wheel is locked.

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Release the brake. Pull the quick-release
lever to the unlocked position. If the
dropout has safety lips, the wheel will not come
out of the fork at this stage. These safety lips keep
the wheel from falling out in the unlikely event of
the lever becoming unlocked while you ride.
Use your fingers to unscrew the nut on the

opposite side of the lever until the quick-release
clears the safety lip.
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Replace the wheel by introducing the hub
axle to the dropouts.
Hook the chain onto the smallest cog, then

push or pull the wheel backward.
Line up the tire exactly in the middle of the

chainstays as you hold the wheel straight.
Push the quick-release lever into the locked

position to secure the wheel. Reconnect the brake.
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103
STEP LOCATOR
STEERING AND WHEELS WHEELS 104
Puncture repair
When you are out on a ride, it is much easier
to replace a punctured inner tube with an
intact tube rather than painstakingly mend
the puncture. At home, you can repair the
punctured tube with adhesive and a patch.
It is still a good idea to carry a repair kit on
every ride, because you might be unlucky
enough to get a second puncture and be
forced to repair the tube outdoors.
The main point to remember about
mending a puncture is not to rush any of
the stages. If you patiently give the glue
time to dry, closely examine the inside of
the tire, and carefully refit the tube, then
you will be rewarded with a successful repair.
If you miss anything or pinch the inner tube,
you may get another puncture.
Mending a punctured
inner tube
Take the wheel out of the bike. Place one
tire lever under the tire bead and lift it off
the rim. Hook this lever around one of the spokes.
Insert another lever under the tire near the

hooked lever. Push the second lever forward and
run it around the whole circumference of the rim
to remove one side of the tire.
Remove the inner tube from the rim.

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Take the tire off the wheel, turn it inside
out, and thoroughly check the inner surface.
Remove anything that is sticking through the

tire by pulling it out from the outside of the tire.
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Toolbox
Tire levers
Crayon
Sandpaper
Chalk
Patch adhesive
Repair patches
Parts of a wheel
Inner tube
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Rim Tire Valve
Spoke
Puncture repair 105
Inflate the tube a little and listen for the
sound of escaping air. Locate the hole, mark
it with a crayon, and let the air out of the tube.
Spread a thin layer of adhesive over and around

the hole (inset). Allow time for it to become tacky. tt
Peel the foil from the patch. Press the patch

firmly onto the adhesive for over a minute e.
Make sure the edges are flat.
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Put one side of the tire ire all thee
way back onto the rim im. Slightl tly
inflate the tube, insert th hee valve i innto
the hole in the rim, and d work the he
tube back inside the ti tire.
Put the other sidee of the

tire in place by push ushing th he
valve upward, the hen lifting ng
the section of t tiire nextt
to the valve over the e
rim. Work t the tire re
back arou ound
the rimm.
Che heck thhat the he

tire hhas no not pinc nch nc ed
the e ttube be und ndeeern e eathh it
bef before re fu ully yy lly in infla atin in ting t g he e
tu tub bee. To To ddo this, s, squuueeze t e the tire
toggeth ther and l look aarround d the whole
ccircu um umference of thhe e wheeel. e
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Use a small piece of san sanddpaper to dust
some chalk ov over er tthe patch to preve event nt ex excess
adhesive fro om s m sticking tto t o the he in inside of o th he t e tire ire.
Leave ve the tu ube be for or a a few feww mi mi t nut nutes es tto to mak make s e sure ure
tha att the adh hhesi esive vee has has dried.
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STEERING AND WHEELS WHEELS
Spokes and rims
The steps in this sequence explain how to
replace a single broken spoke and how to
true a wheel, a term for straightening the
rim of a wheel. However, replacing multiple
spokes, replacing spokes in nonstandard
wheels, and truing a wheel that has been
buckled by some kind of impact are jobs
that are best left to the experts in a good
bike repair shop.
It is essential to true the wheel after
replacing a broken spoke because the wheel
rim is kept straight by the combined pull
of all the spokes acting on it. If one spoke
breaks, its pull is eliminated and the rim
as a whole goes out of line.
A wheel jig is needed to true a wheel
properly. This tool holds the wheel securely
in place, and its jaws provide a reference
point on either side of the rim to help judge
how far out of line the wheel is. Bringing it
in line is a matter of tightening the new
spoke until it reaches the same tension as
the old spoke.
Replacing a spoke and
truing a wheel
Remove the wheel and take off the tire
and inner tube.
Lift up the rim tape next to the broken spoke

and push the spoke upward and out of the rim.
If the head of the spoke is broken, measure the
broken spoke so you can buy the correct length to
replace it. If the break occurred in another place,
measure the two pieces to get the right length.
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Screw the nipple onto the spoke. For the
first few turns you can use your fingers.
Go back to Step 2 and make sure it is laced

exactly the same way as the spoke four along
from it. If it is not laced properly, tensioning the
spoke in Steps 5 and 6 could damage the wheel.
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TToolb lbox
Spoke key
Wheel jig
Needle-nose pliers
Parts of a spoke
106
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Nipple head
Spoke
Bend
Nipple Threads Spoke
Spoke head
Spokes and rims
Insert the new spoke, threads first, into
the hub flange from the opposite side from
its two neighbors.
Lace the new spoke into the wheel, under and

over the neighboring spokes. To do this, look at
the spoke four along and lace the new spoke
exactly the same way.
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Put the wheel into a wheel jig and take
up the remaining slack on the spoke nipple
by tightening it with a spoke key. Make sure that
the spoke key is precisely the right size for the
nipples on the wheel.
Stop short of making the spoke as tight as its

neighbors at this stage.
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Use small, measured turns of the spoke
key to tension the spoke.
Rotate the wheel so that the nipple of the new

spoke is between the jaws of your jig.
Note how out of line the rim is, then give the
nipple a one-quarter tightening turn and check
again between the jaws. Repeat and check each
quarter-turn until the rim is straight.
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Push the nipple of the new spoke through
the rim hole from inside the rim and screw
it onto the spoke.
Remove the rim tape to make it easier to fit the

nipple onto the new spoke.
Check the rim tapeif you see any splits, or if

it is frayed, replace the tape.
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107
Trustworthy brakes are
a bikes most important
component. The braking
system needs to be
adjusted and serviced
carefully and precisely to
guarantee a riders safety
in all conditions.
B
R
A
K
E
S
ADJUSTING YOUR
US_108-109_ND035_SectFive.qxd 26/11/07 4:25 pm Page 109 (TEXT BLACK plate)
ADJUSTING YOUR BRAKES RIM BRAKES 110
RIM BRAKES
Rim brakes stop a bike by contactiing g the rim o ooff f th the e wh wh hhhhheeee e e ls ls ls s ls ls.
Pads must be checked to ensure that they con nttta tact ct tthe e rr rrrim im iim m im m im im mm im
fully and at the same time, and replaced whe enn thhey ey are re re re w wwwwwwwwwwwoor or or or or or or r oooor or rrrrr orr o nn. n. n. n. n. nnnn. n. n.
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How they work
The three most common types of rim brake k V- V- V-br br br b ak akke, e, e,
cantilever, and caliperwork in similar ways ys yy . A AA le le leve vee verrr
pulls a cable, which causes the two brake ar armmms ms t tto oo mmo mo move ve ve
toward each other simultaneously. Thhhis is i a act ct ctio io ionnn br br brrin in ings gs gs gs
the two pads into contact with the b braaki ki king ng ng sssurfa ffa f ce ce ce ce oo ooff
the wheel rim. Springs cause the arms to to to mmmov ov ov ov ove e ee ba ba ack ck ck ck kk
when the lever is released. Cantilever b bbrrra akke ke k s di di d st st strrri r bute te tee
the cables pull via a strad ddle wire. Th T e e in innnne ne e ne n rr cca ca aa cabl bblle ee in in in in n in in in
a V-brake and caliper pulls one arm, m, m, wwwhi hi hi ile le le le t the he he eee o oo ooout ut ut ut ut uteer er er er er,,,,
in resisting this pull, effectively pu pu push sh sh s es es es t tt tthhe he hh o oth th ttth th hher er err er aaarm rm rm rmm r . .
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ver ver ver ver verr v ry h y h y h y h y h y hh yy igh igh igh igh igh gh gh gh i st st ttt st st st stan and and nd and ddddard ard ard ard ard ard ard ard ard rd r s i s i s i i s i s i s i iiif t f t f t tt f t ttthey he he hey hey hey hey hey hey hey y hey he hey yy ey ey ey eeey eyy he e hey eeeyyy
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saf saf af saf saf saa ely ely ely ely ely ely on on on on oon oonn an an aan an aan a y s y s y s y y y s y urf urf urf urf ff urf fff urf urf face ace ace ce ce ace ace ce ac ace cc an an an aan nn aan an an nd i d i d i d i d i i d ddd nnnnnnnnnnn
all all all a co co co co oond ndi ndi ndi ndi nd n tio tio tio tions. ns. ns.
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arm by a cable-clamp bol o t. W WWhe he hen n n pu pu puull ll lleed ed ed, , , thhheee
cable pulls this arm towwwar ard d th th the e e ri rr m. A AAt tt th th the e
same time, the cable-guide de de tt tub ub ub b ube, e, e, e, wwwhi hi hich ch ch ch i iiss aan an
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ot ot othe he her r ar ar rm m m m in in inwa wa wa ward rd rd r . . . Th Th Th The e eee tw tw tw tw tw wo o o o ar ar rrms ms ms ms mm ppppiv ivv i ot ooot o aro ro roun un nndd
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ag ag ag agai ai ai ains ns ns nst ttt th th h the e e e br br b ak ak ak akin in in ing gg g su su su surf rf rf rfac ac ac ac ccccce e e on on onn on tt the he he he he he r rrrrim m. . On On On Once ce ce
th th th t e e e e ca ca ca cabl bl bl bl b e e e e e s s sss ppu pull ll ll is s re re eele le le leeas as ased ed ed e , , sp sp sp pri ring ng ggs s arouuuuuuund nd nd nd nd nd d t ttthe hhe hh
pi pi pi pivvo vot t bo bo bolt lt lt ltss s s pu pu pp sh sh sh sh t tt tthe he hh bb bbbbrra ra r ke ke ke ke ke aarms apar ar rt. tt. t
V-BRAKE ANATOMY
Bra Br Bra Bra ra BBrr ke e pad ad ad pad
Contac cccts ts ts ts ss the the the the the the h ri ri ri ri im a mmm a m nd nd d nd nd d d t sto sto sto sto sto s ps ps ps ps ps p
the e tth th wh whe whe whe whe he w el el eeel el
Brake arm
Pivots inward on
a brake boss
Cab Cab Cab Cab ble- le- le- le- - le cla cla cla cla cla clamp mp mp mp mmm bol bo bol bol bo bo tttttt
Att Att Att Att At At At ach ach ach acc es es es s s s s the the thee ca ca ca cable ble ble ble b to tto to to t th th th th t e b e b e b e b e bra rak rak rak ke a e a arm m rm rm
Cable-guide tub be
Pushes the brake
arm
Piv Piv Piv Piv Pi ot ot ot ot o bol bol bol bol bol oltttttttt
Anc Anc Anc Anchor hor hor ho s t s t s tthe he he he hhe
bra bra bra br kke ke arm to
the the the t br br bb ake bo o boss ss ss s
Inn n Inn nn ner er er er er cab ca ca ca ca ca ca c le le le le e
Pul Pul Pul Pul Pulls ls ls ls ls the the the the he th
bbra bra bra brake ke ke ke k arm arm arm arm mm
Bra Bra Bra Bra raake ke ke ke ke kk bo bos bos bos bo bos bo ssssss
All All All All All AAlloows ows oows ows oww th th th th th th th t e b e b e b e b e b e b e rak ra rak ra ra rrak ra ra ra e arm m to to to to to to to piv piv piv piv piv piv p oot oot ot ot o
Spr Spr Spr pr rrin ing in ing ing ing i ssssss
Pus Pus Pus Pus Pus ush b h b h b h b h b b h brak rak rak rak rake a e a e a e a arms rms rms rms rms rms ap ap ap ap apart art art art ar
How HHow How ow ow ow ow ow Ho Ho Ho Ho Hoow How HHHHo How Hoow Hoooooooo tthhhhh thhey eey ey ey ey ey y ey y ee wwo wwo wor wor or wwww kkkkkkkkkk 111
Wh Wh Wh When en en e t tthe he he r rid der er e aaapp p lies es tthe he bbra ake lever, it pulls the
ni ni ni ipp pp pp pple le le oooff f f th th the e e in in in nne ne n r r ca abl bl b e. e. AAs it it leaves the lever, the
br br brak ak akke e e e ca ca cabl bl b e e e ru ru runs ns ns n iiins ns ss n id id d i e e a a ca cable hous u ing, which sits in
a a a a ba ba ba barr rr rr r el el el aa adj dj djus us uste te ter. r. TT Thhis s ba ba arr rrel el a adj djus steer allows the brake
tr tr trr t av av av avel el el el tt tto o o be be be b f fin ine- e- e-tu tu tune ne n d. d.
Br Bra Bra Bra Bra Bra Br Br BB ke ke ke ke ke ke ke k lev lev lev lever er err
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Bra Bra Bra Bra Bra Bra Bra Bra Br Br Bra r Bra Br ra ra ra ra rraaa ra ra ra ra raakke ke ke ke ke ke ke ke ke kke ke e ke ke ke e ke ke kk arm arm arm arm arm arm arm ar arm arm aar
Mov Mo MMov Mov MMMov Mov ov Mov v ov MMov Mo Mo MMMo MMM v M es es es es ees es es es es s the the the the the the he the h
bra br br bbbra bra bra bra bra ra bra bra bra bbra bra bra bra bbra bra bra br br bbbb ke ke ke ke ke ke ke kke ke ke e ke kke pad pa pad pad pad pad pad pad pad pad padssssssss
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Slo Slo Slo Slo Slo Slo Slo Slo Slo Slo Sl Slo Slo Slo l Slo Slo Sl Slo Slo SSSSlo Slo SSlo Slo Slo lo Slo Slo lo Slo Slo Slo Slo SSSllloo l ws ws ws ws ws ws ws ws wws ws ws wss ws wws wws ws wwwwwww do dow dow dow do ddow dow dow dow dow ddoww ow do ddo nnnnnnnnn
the tthe the th the the th the the the he he he he the he he he tth the he he he tthe the the th th th hhh th hhhh th th wh wh wh wh wh wh wh wh wh wh wh wh wh wh wh wwh wwh w wh wh w eel eel eel eel eel eel eel eel eel eel eel eel eee l eel ee
Bra rake ke lever
Pulls s the the
nip nipple ple
Bar Bar Bar Bar B rel rel rel rel rel ad ad ad ad adjus jus jus jus j ter ter ter ter
Adj Adj Adj Adj Adj djuust ust ust ust uu b s bb s brak rak rak rakee
tra tra t aavel el vel el
Inner cable
Lin Lin Lin Lin nks ks ks ks ks ks the the th th br br br br brake ak akk ake ar ar ar arm t m t mm ooo
the the hh br br brr brake ake ake ak le le le lever ver ver ver r
Cab Cab Cab Cab ble le le le e hou hou ou hou housin sin sin sin ngggg
Res Res Res Re ist ist ist ist ts t s s t s t s tthe he he he h
pul pul pul pull o l o l o l on t n the he
cab cab cab cab ble le le le
Nip Nip N ple ple ee
Fix Fix Fix Fix x Fi es es es s inn inn inn nner er er er cab cab cab able le e to to to braake ke lev lev le er er
BRA BRA BRA BR KE KE KE LEV LEVER ER ANA AN TOMY
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33333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333
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ADJUSTING YOUR BRAKES RIM BRAKES
Drop handlebar
brake cable
Brake cables on a drop handlebar need to be
changed at regular intervals, although this
depends on how much the road bike is used.
For a heavily used bike, change the brake
cables every two months; for a bike ridden
lightly two or three times a week, change
the brake cables once a year.
The steps in this sequence are performed
on the back brake. Replacing a cable on the
front brake follows the same principles, but
there are no cable guides to thread through.
Brake levers that fit a drop handlebar
require a brake cable with a pear nipple.
Always keep a new cable in the toolbox
or workshop as a spare. A rear cable can be
cut to fit the front as well. Once the cable
has been removed, remember to put a few
drops of lubricant on the pivots around
which the brake lever moves, and spray
some oil into the tube inside the lever
hood where the cable is inserted.
Replacing road bike
brake cables
Loosen the cable-clamp bolt on the brake
caliper. Remove the old cable by pulling its
nipple from the lever hood with needle-nose pliers.
Note exactly where the cable fits in the lever

hood to allow you to fit the new one easily.
If the old cable has broken, remove the part of

the cable that is still clamped to the calliper.
Carefully unwind the handlebar tape.

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Fit each length of cable housing with a
metal ferrule at both ends. When you
apply the brake, ferrules prevent the cable
housings from being pulled through the
cable guides on the frame.
Make sure that each ferrule is pushed all the

way on. Put a little oil on the end of the ferrule
to help it slide into place, and wipe off any excess.
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Toolb lbox
Needle-nose pliers
Cable cutters
Fine round file

Parts of a brake lever and brake cable
Brake cable
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STE STE STEPPP LOC LOC LOCATO ATO ATORRR
112
Brake lever
Brake lever
hood
Pear
nipple
Brake
cable
Campagnolo Ergoshift
Drop handlebar brake cable
Insert the new, greased cable into the
cradle on the lever in which the nipple sits.
Thread the cable into the tube in the lever

hood. Push it in and watch for it to come out of
the back of the lever hood. Now pull it through
the lever hood from behind.
Make sure that the nipple is seated in the brake

lever cradle when the cable is all the way through.
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Thread the cable through the first length
of cable housing and the first cable guide.
Pull the cable all the way through and insert it

into the next guide, then the next housing.
Push the cable housings firmly into the guides to

ensure there is no slack when applying the brakes.
Use a fine round file to file out any tight cable

guides. Do not file more than you have to.
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Pull the cable through the cable-clamp
bolt on the caliper until each brake pad is
about 2mm from the wheel rim.
Hold the cable and tighten the clamp bolt. If the

brake has a quick release, ensure that it is in the
closed position before tightening the clamp bolt.
Follow Steps 5 and 6 on p.97 to re-tape the

handlebar, with either new or existing tape.
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Cut the new cable housing to length with
good-quality cable cutters. Measure the old
housing and cut the new one to the same length.
Always cut between the spirals of the housing.
Dribble oil into the housing, holding it while

the oil runs down to coat the inside.
Renew cable housings at regular intervals.

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113
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Straight handlebar
brake cable
Replacing brake cable inners and housings
is a job that should be done fairly often on
a mountain bikeabout once every six to
12 months. They also need replacing if they
start fraying and become worn. The hybrid
bike in this sequence has V-brakes, but some
mountain bikes are equipped with cantilever
brakes. Fitting cables is similar for both.
Brake cables also require regular cleaning
and lubricating, especially if the bike has
been ridden consistently in wet weather. All
brake levers that fit onto a straight or riser
handlebar require a cable with a barrel nipple.
Regardless of the manufacturer, the barrel
nipple fits into the brake lever in the same
way. Remember to use ferrules on both ends
of every length of new cable housing. Put a
cable crimp on the end of the cable once
everything is secure and working as it should.
In these steps, the tire is removed from
the wheel to show clearly what is happening.
Replacing V-brake cables
on a hybrid bike
Undo the cable-clamp bolt on the brake.
Note where the nipple sits in the cradle
that is part of the lever and remove the cable
from inside the brake lever by pulling it out
with needle-nose pliers.
Check the cable housings. If they are not worn,

you can use them again. Flush them out with
degreaser and dribble oil into them.
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Attach the cable to the brake arm by
inserting it into the cable guide tube and
then pull it through the cable-clamp bolt.
Keep the cable under tension and make sure

each length of cable housing is properly seated in
the cable guides.
Pull the cable to bring the brake pads closer to

the rim. Tighten the clamp bolt when the pads are
about 2mm from the rim.
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Toolb lbox
Needle-nose pliers
Cable cutters
Cable pullers (optional)

Parts of a brake lever and a brake cable
Brake lever Brake cable
114
Brake lever Barrel adjuster
Reach
adjuster
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Nipple
Brake
cable
Ring clamp
Straight handlebar brake cable
Cut new cable housings to the same
length as the housings you removed, or
measure them on your bike and trim as needed.
Buy cable housing either in a roll or in precut
lengths with inners in a cable kit. The precut
lengths may be too long for your bike, so you may
still have to cut to fit.
Dribble oil into each cable housing and push a

metal ferrule onto each end.
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Pull the brake lever until the brake is fully
applied. This ensures that all cable housings
are bedded in and all bolts are tight.
Undo the cable-clamp bolt and repeat Step 4

if the cable slips through the clamp bolt or a
ferrule is not seated properly.
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Cut off any excess cable once the cables
are bedded in.
Leave about 1
1
2in (4cm) of free cable after the
cable-clamp bolt.
Put a cable crimp on the end of the cable to

prevent it from fraying.
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Grease the new inner and thread it into
the brake lever. When it shows through the
barrel adjuster, pull it from this side of the lever
until the nipple is seated in the lever cradle.
Thread the cable through the lengths of cable

housing and seat the cable housings in the cable
guides of the frame.
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115
STEP LOCATOR
Caliper brake
Maintaining caliper brakes is a question of
regularly checking the action of the brake
lever. If you have to pull it too far before the
brake bites, the brake needs adjusting. Check
the brake pads for wear and alignment, and
ensure that they contact the braking surface
of the rims simultaneously.
How far the lever has to be pulled before
the brake comes on depends on the rider.
People with smaller hands may prefer more
travel in the lever before the brake bites,
because they will pull with more strength
the closer the lever is to the handlebar.
Apart from their quick releases, all dual-
pivot caliper brakes (such as the Shimano
brakes shown here) work in the same way,
regardless of the manufacturer. This means
that you should be able to apply these steps
to your bike, whatever its brakes.
Adjusting a caliper brake
Periodically check for pad wear. If the
pads are wearing down toward half their
original depth, they must be replaced.
Undo the Allen key pad retainer and push out

the pad. If the pad and shoe are a complete piece,
replace the whole unit, releasing the old pad and
fitting the new one with a 5mm Allen key.
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Pull the brake on with the brake lever and
check to see if both pads simultaneously
come i in contact with the braking surface on the
rim of the wheel.
Make sure that both sides are working together

by turning an adjustment screw on the side of the
caliper with an Allen key. This process is called
centering the brakes.
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Toolb lbox
Full set of Allen keys or Allen key multi-tool
Needle-nose pliers (optional)

Parts of a caliper brake
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Caliper arm
Center-fixing bolt
Centering
adjusting
screw
Brake shoe
bolt
Brake shoe
Brake pad
Travel
adjuster,
spring,
and
washer
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Caliper brake 117
Adjust the brake pads so they are directly
in line with the braking surface of the rim.
Release the 5mm Allen bolt on the pad and line

the pad up with the braking surface.
Look for pad wear at this point. Pads that have

been set too low will develop a lip and will need
to be replaced.
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Adjust the brake travel if you have to pull
the brake lever back a long way toward the
handlebar before the wheel stops moving.
Undo the cable-fixing bolt and squeeze the

sides of the caliper until the pads nearly touch the
rim. The brake cable will then move through the
fixing bolt.
Tighten the bolt and release the caliper.

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Press the small button at the side of the
brake lever to move Campagnolo caliper
brake pads away from the rim.
Restore the pads to their original position by

pulling the brake lever toward the handlebar
until the brakes are on and then push the small
button back.
Use a quick-release mechanism when
the adjusted brake pads are so close to
the rim that it is impossible to remove the wheel.
Campagnolo and Shimano caliper brakes are
equipped with different quick-release systems.
Lift the small lever on the cable-fixing bolt to

make Shimano caliper brake pads move away from
the rim. After replacing the wheel, lower the lever.
Using quick-release
mechanisms
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V-brake
V-brakes are fitted to most new mountain
bikes because they give good stopping power.
Maintaining brake performance is crucial
because of the harsh conditions to which
mountain bikes are sometimes subjected, so
knowing how to adjust the brakes at home
and out on the trail is very important.
Pad alignment and brake travel need to
be checked and adjusted regularly to keep
them working properly. Bear in mind that as
soon as you ride off-road you will increase
brake pad wear. Even a single ride can render
already worn pads useless, so change them
before they need it.
Adjustment in the workshop, especially
pad alignment, is best performed with the
tire removed, since off-road tires are bulky
and can get in the way. Wheels must run
true before setting up brakes (see pp.1067). 77
Adjusting a V-brake
Make sure the stopper pin on each brake
arm is seated in the same hole on the
brake bosses. If it is not, remove the pivot bolt,
slide the brake arm off the boss, and put the pin
into the correct hole.
Replace the pivot bolt and retighten it. If you

notice that the brake boss was dry with the arm
removed, smear a little grease on it.
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Retension the brakes by hooking the cable
bac b k in its cradle.
Make sure the gap between each brake pad and

the rim of the wheel is 1mm.
Undo the cable-fixing bolt with an Allen key

and pull the cable through until the 1mm gap is
achieved. Then tighten the cable-fixing bolt.
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Toolb lbox
Full set of Allen keys or Allen key multi-tool
Phillips screwdriver
Cable puller (optional)

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666666666666666666666666666666666666666666
Brake pad Brake shoe
Cable-
fixing
bolt
Spacers
V-brake arm
Cradle
Spring
clip
Pivot
bolt
Parts of a V-brake
V-brake
Press the brake arms together. If they are
not vertical when the pads touch the rim,
rearrange the spacers on either side of the pads
until they are vertical.
Release the brakes by unhooking the cable-

guide tube from the cradle. Do this when you
remove the wheel with correctly adjusted V-brakes.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to tighten
or loosen the centering screw on each brake
arm. The aim is to make both arms move an equal
distance before the pad touches the rim when you
apply the brake lever.
The tension on each screw should ideally be

even, since there is an equal number of spacers
on either side of the brake arm.
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Screw out the barrel adjuster on the
brake lever to reduce brake travel and
make the brakes feel more responsive.
Screw the adjuster outward to reduce brake

travel and create firmer braking. This technique is
quick and easy to perform, and is especially useful
for riding in wet conditions, when brake pads can
wear down rapidly.
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Undo the brake-pad fixing bolt, remove
the pad and shoe assembly, and switch the
spacers around.
Check the pads. If they are worn, remove the

pad-retaining clip, push the old pad out of the
shoe, and replace it with a new one.
Line up the pads so that they hit the rim with

their entire braking surface, and are parallel to it.
Then tighten the fixing bolts.
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119
STEP LOCATOR
Cantilever brake
Cantilever brakes work with the brake
levers that fit dropped handlebars, whereas
V-brakes do not. This is why touring and
cyclo-cross bikes are fitted with cantilevers.
Cantilevers were the predecessors of
V-brakes, so they may also be fitted to
older mountain and hybrid bikes.
Keep cantilever brakes running smoothly
by regularly checking the pads for wear and
adjusting the pad alignment and brake travel.
The cable of the cantilever brake shown
in these steps is clamped to one brake arm
and the straddle wire running off it attaches
to the other arm. On some older cantilever
brakes, the brake cable is attached to a
straddle. This hooks the straddle wire that
transfers the cables pull to both brake arms
and needs regular adjustment (see Step 1
Adjusting a BMX U-brake, pp.12223).
Adjusting a
cantilever brake
Disconnect the straddle wire by pushing
the cantilever arm to which it is attached
toward the wheel with one hand. At the same
time, unhook the nipple on the straddle with the
other hand.
Undo the pivot bolts that attach the cantilever

arms to the frame bosses.
Remove the cantilever arms.

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Angle the pads so that the front of each
pad hits the rim before the rear when the
brakes are appliedthis is called toe in.
Loosen the pad-fixing bolt and place an emery

board between the rear of the pad and the rim.
Apply the brakes and then tighten the bolt.
Release the brakes and remove the emery board.
Ideally, the front of the pad should be 1mm from
the rim and the rear 2mm.
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Toolb lbox
5mm Allen key
Grease gun (optional)
Grease
Parts of a cantilever brake
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Cantilever arm
Spacers Brake pad Allen nut
Brake pad Brake shoe
Cable-clamp bolt
1111 111 mmmmmmmmmmmmmmm mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm mmm m mmmmm mm mm mmmm mmmmmmmm mmmmmmmmm mmmmmmmmmm mmmmmmmm
222222222222222 2 mm mmm mm mmmm mm mmmmm mm mmmm mm mm mmm mm mm mmmm mm mm mmmm mm mm mm mm mm mmmm mm mm mm mm m mmm mm mmmm
Spring
clip
Cantilever brake 121
Clean the exposed frame bosses with a
cloth soaked in degreaser, then lubricate
with a light grease, not a heavy-duty industrial
grease. Use a grease gun if you have one.
Bolt both arms back on to the bosses, making

sure that the stopper pins are inserted into the
same hole on each boss.
Replace the pivot bolts and then tighten them

to hold the brake arms to the bosses.
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Undo the brake-cable
clamp to achieve the
proper spacing from the pad
to the rim.
Pull the cable through the

clamp until the front of each
brake pad is 1mm from the
rim. Tighten the clamp bolt.
Pull the brake lever to see

if both brake arms contact
the rim simultaneously. If they
do not, screw the centering
screws in or out on each arm
until they do.
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Check the pads. If one is worn or badly
aligned, undo the pad-fixing bolt with an
Allen key and remove the pad/shoe assembly.
Remove the spring clip from the brake shoe and

slide out the worn pad. Slide in a new pad and
replace the spring clip.
Return the assembly to the brake arm, line up

the pad so that its entire surface contacts the rim
and is parallel with it, then tighten the bolt.
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Use an Allen key
to adjust the
centering screw on
each brake arm if the
pads do not contact the
rim at the same time.
Screw in to move the
pad away from the rim.
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Alternative
brake designs
Two alternative brake designs are commonly
fitted to some new bikes. These are the
side-pull caliper brakes used on childrens
bikes and the U-brakes fitted on BMX bikes.
Side-pulls work in much the same way as
calipers (see pp.11617), while U-brakes
resemble cantilevers (see pp.12021).
Before buying replacement cables for
either of these types of brakes, first check
the kind of nipple that is currently used
on the bike in question. Some levers on
childrens bikes and older bikes require
pear nipples, while other levers need barrel
nipples. When a new cable is fitted to a
side-pull caliper brake, leave the barrel
adjuster at the halfway point of its range.
Adjusting a side-pull
caliper brake
Loosen the cable-clamp bolt and pull the
cable through until the brake pads are
closer to the rim. This compensates for pad wear.
Screw in the barrel adjuster to move the pads

away or screw it out to move them closer.
Replace pads that are worn below half their

depth by undoing the pad bolt and fitting a new
pad or shoe unit in their place.
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Undo the
straddle clamp
bolt and pull the brake
cable through the
straddle with needle-
nose pliers to take
up the pad wear.
Then tighten the nut.
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Undo the
straddle clamp
Toolb lbox
Needle-nose pliers
Wrenches
Parts of a side-pull brake and a U-brake
Brake
arms
Centering
screw
Straddle-
wire seat
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122
Pivot bolts
Brake
pads
Straddle-
clamp
bolt
Adjusting a BMX U-brake
Pivot nut
Brake
pad
Brake-pad bolt
Barrel adjuster
Cable-clamp
bolt
Brake
arms
BMX U-brake
Side-pull caliper brake
Brake-
pad bolt
Alternative brake designs
Center the brakes if one brake pad is
contacting the rim before the other.
Undo the brakes pivot nut that holds it in

place and is located behind the fork crown. e and is located behind the fork crown.
Ho old the caliper so that both pads are an equal

distance from the rim and tighten the pivot nut.
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Undo the pad bolts, line up the pads, and
tighten the bolt so that the brake pads
contact the rim directly in line with it. Do this
when you replace worn pads, too. y ep pa ,
Inspect the pads regularly. If you find any

ridges on them, replace the pads (see Step 1)
and then line them up as described above, so
that thei eir e r enti ntire re sur surfac face c e cont ontact acts t s the he rim rim.
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123
Line up or replace pads in the sa same wway y
as caliper brakes (see pp.1161 17). . RRep plac lace 77
the b brake pads by removing the p pad b boltts s and nd
fittin ng new pad and shoe units..
Too disconnect the brake, pinch t thee

brake arms together and unh hoookk
the s straddle from the
strad ddle wire. To
reconnect, reverse
this procedure.
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ADJ ADJUST USTING YOUR BRAKES E HUB-MO OUNT T NTED ED BRA B KES 124
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flu flu fluid id id id i fro fro from t m ttthe he he le le le lev lev lev lev le le le le lee le le er
to too to to the th the theee the heeeeeeee cccc ca cca c lip lip lip pper errr er errr
125
ADJUSTING YOUR BRAKES HUB-MOUNTED BRAKES 126
Replacing disc
brake pads
When brake pads wear down, the brakes
will not stop the wheel as quickly. Eventually,
the pads become so worn that they have to
be replaced. Unevenly worn pads should
also be replaced immediately and the caliper
may need to be realigned (see p.129). 99
Although replacing pads is broadly the
same for all makes and models of disc brake,
there are some differences, mostly in the
way the pads are retained within the brake
caliper. Some brake pads are kept in position
within the caliper by retaining bolts, while
others rely on the spring that keeps the two
pads apart to fix them in place.
Only use replacement pads recommended
by the manufacturer of your brakes, and be
very careful how you handle the pads.
Changing the pads
Remove the wheel from the frame or
forks (see pp.102-3), depending on which
brake you are working on.
Taking care not to touch the disc brake rotor,

lower the wheel from the bike by supporting it with
both hands on the axle, on each side of the hub.
If you do touch a rotor you must clean it, or

the performance of the brake will be reduced
(see pp.128-29). 9
Place the new pads on either side of the
spr s ing, which is V-shaped when looked at
from the side. The tabs of the pads should be at
the open end of the V. The narrowest part of the
V goes into the caliper first.
Taking care not to touch the pad surface, hold

the pad and spring assembly between the thumb
and forefinger, ready to put it in the caliper.
Toolb lbox
Allen or Torx keys
Flat-bladed screwdriver
Brake pads
(not visible)
Brake
hose
Rotor
Parts of a disc-brake caliper
Caliper
Replacing disc brake pads
Remove the pad from the caliper. The
pads on this model are held in place within
the caliper by outward pressure from a spring.
Before you can push the pads out, you need to

prise them apart with a flat-bladed screwdriver.
If your brakes have a mechanism for taking up

pad wear you need to fully wind it out.
If your bike has a pad-retaining bolt, remove it

with an Allen key.
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Squeeze the pad/spring assembly together
and push it into the open end of the caliper.
Slide the assembly all the way in, listening for the
click sound that indicates it is seated correctly in
the caliper. Let go once you hear the click.
The pads should separate when you let go of

them. If they dont, remove and reassemble them,
then push them in again, repeating Steps 25.
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Put the wheel back in the frame or fork,
ensuring the quick-release lever is locked.
Bed the pads in by spinning the wheel and

pulling the brake lever a number of times. Ride
the bike for a short time to test the brakes fully.
Some brakes have micro-adjusters for fine-

tuning their actionadjust this feature if present
on your brakes.
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Once the pads are dislodged, and all
internal pressure is off them, squeeze them
together. Use the tabs at the front of the pads
to pull them free from the caliper. Sometimes
they need a gentle push from behind with a flat-
bladed screwdriver.
If you have to push them, take each pad out

separately and ensure that the separating spring
comes out, too.
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127
STEP LOCATOR
ADJUSTING YOUR BRAKES HUB-MOUNTED BRAKES 128
Disc-brake care
Cable disc brakes work well in all conditions.
Even so, check the brake cables regularly
for signs of fraying and keep them well
lubricated. If the brakes do not release
quickly when you let go of the brake lever,
they need to be lubricated. Check brake
travel, too, since excessive travel can mean
that the brake pads are worn.
When lubricating your bike, make sure
that the lubricant does not fall on or touch
the brake discs or pads. Do not even touch
the disc or pad faces, because the grease
from your fingers can easily affect their
performance. Always clean the discs with a
specialized rotor-cleaning fluid.
Check your disc brake rotors regularly
for accuracy and cracks, and clean them after
every ride to ensure good brake performance.
Replace a cracked or buckled rotor at once.
Adjusting cable travel
Loosen the cable-clamp bolt on the
caliper and pull through enough cable, with
pliers or a cable-pulling tool, to take up
any slack in the cable.
Tighten the clamp bolt. This will reduce the

travel on the brakes and is a necessary adjustment
if the brake levers need to be pulled a long way
before the brakes work.
Check the rotor for accuracy by
inspecting how it moves through the
calliper when the wheel is turned. It should run
absolutely straight and true.
Spin the wheel quickly, but ensure you are

holding your bike steady.
Toolb lbox
Allen or Torx keys
Needle-nose pliers
Rotor cleaner
Clean cloth
Parts of a cable disc brake (front)
Looking after rotors
Cable
housing
Brake
cable
Brake
caliper
Brake disc
Hub
Rotor-mounting
bolts
129
Screw out the barrel adjuster to reduce
brake travel. The adjuster is just above
where the cable housing sits on the caliper body.
Loosen the fixing clamp to remove the old cable

if a new cable is needed. Insert the new cable into
the brake lever (see pp.11415) and follow Steps 1 55
and 2 with the new cable.
Lubricate the new cable before you fit it.

Align the calipers with the discs using the
adjustment bolts. Undo these bolts, align
the caliper so that its sides are parallel with the
disc, and then tighten.
Align brakes that are not equipped with this

adjustment facility by using spacers to pack out
the caliper-fixing bolts.
Remove a cracked or buckled rotor by
unscrewing the bolts, holding it to the hub
with an Allen or Torx key. Replace it with the
specific rotor for your type of brake.
Place the new rotor over the threaded bolt

holes in the hub. Screw in and tighten the bolts.
Clean the rotor with a special rotor-
cleaning fluid after removing the wheel.
Spray a little cleaner on either side of the rotor.
Use a clean cloth to prevent the cleaner from

coating other bike parts but also to ensure the
rotor is covered with cleaner. Do not polish with it.
STEP LOCATOR
ADJUSTING YOUR BRAKES HUB-MOUNTED BRAKES
Hydraulic
disc brake I
Hydraulic disc brakes are more powerful
than cable disc brakes, and once correctly
installed, will require less maintenance. A
bike that has disc-brake mountings on the
frame and fork will be suitable for a disc-
brake system.
Cable disc brakes can work with rim-brake
levers but their performance falls fractionally
short of hydraulic systems. These work by
compressing a fluid rather than pulling a
cable. Compatible hydraulic brake levers will
need to be fitted to the handlebar and brake
hoses that hold the brake fluid. Disc-specific
hubs will also be required.
There is no need to fasten the front hose
to the fork. To direct and keep the rear hose
in place, use an adapter kit to let the frames
cable guides take hoses, because the cable
hole in a standard cable guide is too small.
Installing a hydraulic
disc-brake system
Fit the caliper using the Allen bolts and
washers provided.
Switch the washers around to pack out each

caliper in order to line it up with the disc.
App App p ly ly a t a thre hread- ad loc lockin king c g comp ompou oundd t d to t o the he thr thread eadss, ,
ttthe tthe t n f n fix ix the the di disc sc to to the the hu hub u b usin sing t g thhe e dis disc b c bolt olts. s
Toolb lbox
Allen or Torx keys
Wrench
Utility knife
Thread-locking compound
Flat screwdriver
Parts of a hydraulic disc brake
130
Caliper
Disc
Wheel
quick-
release
Hose
Disc bolt
Hydraulic disc brake I
Cut the hose of the
hydraulic system if it is
too long by following Steps 37. too long by following Ste
ds ( Take out the brake pa see

pp.1267 ace ) first and repla
caliper them with a spacer. The
ation use u d here is a demonstra
ached. mo mod m el with no hose atta
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f Car C efully cut off excess
cable from etached the de
sharp end of the hose with a s
knife. Keep d the the olive and
he hose shroud on the part of th
ecting. that you will be reconne
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Join the hose to the
brake lever by inserting
it into the lever joint. Push it
home firmly, but not too hard,
since this can split the hose.
Hold the hose upward as you

work to keep brake fluid loss to
a minimum.
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Squeeze the olive on to
the hose at the lever joint
to make a good seal.
Screw the shroud on to the

thread of the lever joint.
Bleed the disc-brake system

(see pp.1323).
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Move the brass olive
along the hose and out
of the way.
Pry the hose off the brake

lever joint with a flat screwdriver,
but be careful not to damage
the lever joint. At the same
time, gently pull on the hose
to detach it.
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Mount the brake lever
onto the handlebar and
secure with the clamp bolts.
Unscrew the aluminum

shroud located where the hose
joins the brake lever and move
it out of the way. Pry open
the brass olive beneath with a
flat screwdriver.
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131
132
Draining and
replacing brake fluid
Remove the wheels from the bike to
reduce the chance of brake fluid falling
on the brake discs.
Place a spacer in the caliper between the

brake pads (see Step 2, p.131).
Take off the brake fluid reservoir cover on the

brake lever with an Allen key. Be careful not to let
any of the brake fluid touch your hands.
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Repeat Step 4, filling up the reservoir until
there are no more air bubbles flowing
through the clear tube when you squeeze the
brake lever. You will probably have to repeat this
step four or five times before the bubbles in the
tube completely disappear.
Close the bleed nipple once the tube is bubble-

free and the reservoir is full.
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Angle the bike so that the reservoir is
level, open the bleed nipple, and fill the
reservoir with brake fluid. Pour with a smooth,
constant stream to minimize air bubbles.
Squeeze the brake lever all the way to the

handlebar and hold it. Close the bleed nipple.
Never mix brake fluids. Mineral oil or DOT 4

fluids cannot be interchanged.
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Toolbox

10mm wrench
Length of clear hose

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Hydraulic disc
brake II
If you are pulling hard on the brake levers
without much effect on the discs, or if you
are pulling the levers several times to make
the brakes work, you need to bleed air from
the system. The following steps will also help
if you have cut hoses to fit while installing a
hydraulic system, had a leak in the system, or
have fitted a new hose.
Hydraulic disc brake II 133
Open the bleed nipple on the caliper with
a 10mm wrench.
Slide one end of a short length of clear tube

onto the bleed nipple.
Put the other end of the tube into a plastic

container that is big enough to hold the old
brake fluid.
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Replace the cover of
the brake fluid reservoir
but be careful not to displace
any brake fluid.
Refit your wheels and pump

the brake lever a few times to
center the brake pads.
Go for a flat test ride. If

your brakes are not performing
as they should, there may still
be air in the system. Repeat
Step 4 and make sure that
everything is tight.
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Pull the brake lever all the way back to
the handlebar to remove some brake fluid.
Tighten the bleed nipple.
Make sure that all tools are at hand, since the

next steps require you to be organized.
Cover the surface below where you are working,

since brake fluids can be corrosive. Use disposable
mechanics gloves to protect your hands.
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Roller-brake cable
All brake cables wear out, no matter how
much time is spent maintaining them. Cables
for roller brakessometimes called drum
brakesare no different. If the bike is
equipped with roller brakes, the steps in this
sequence show how to replace a cable when
it is frayed or worn out. However, lubricating
the brakes and replacing the internal parts
are occasional jobs that are best left to the
experts at a good bike shop.
If the rear inner tube is punctured, or it is
necessary to take off the back tire to replace
it, you need to know how to disconnect the
rear brake in order to remove the back wheel.
At the same time, you should know how to
reconnect and adjust the brake after replacing
the wheel. Once this is a familiar routine, it
will also be possible to adjust the roller
brakes for brake pad wear from time to time.
Replacing a
roller-brake cable
Push the brake-arm cradle toward the
front of the bike. This takes the tension
from the cable so that you can unhook the
cable-clamp bolt from the cradle and remove
the old cable.
Screw the barrel adjuster on the brake arm in

or out to about half of its extent.
Remove the wheel at this point if you need to

replace the tire or inner tube.
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Tighten the cable-clamp bolt while
squeezing the cable slightly, as your helper
keeps up the forward pull on the brake-arm cradle.
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TToolb lbox
Wrenches
Needle-nose pliers
Parts of a roller brake
Brake
body
Wheel
axle nut
Brake
arm
Cable-
clamp
bolt
Cable C bl Cable C bl
guide
Barrel l
adjuster
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134
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Roller-brake cable
Thread the greased cable through the
brake lever, then through the housing.
Dribble a little oil into the housing.
Make sure the housing is firmly located in the

lever, then thread the cable through the barrel
adjuster and seat the housing firmly into it.
Thread the cable through the cable-clamp bolt.

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Pull the brake lever hard repeatedly (ten
times) to bed in the brakes. The brakes may
be a little tight, as if they are being applied gently,
even when there is no pressure on the lever.
Keep about
2
2
5in (15mm) of play in the brake
lever before the brakes begin to bite.
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Screw in the barrel adjuster a few turns
until you achieve the
2
22
5 in (15mm) of play in
the brake lever.
Pull in the lever after each turn in the adjuster

to check when the brakes begin to bite.
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Pull the cable backward with the needle-
nose pliers while you push the brake-arm
cradle forward and hook the clamp bolt into it.
Bend the cable slightly behind the clamp bolt

and ask someone to push the brake-arm cradle
forward. Use your free hand to tighten up the
bolt so the cable is nipped in place.
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135
Suspension technology
has revolutionized
off-road riding. Accurate
adjustment of the front
fork and rear shock
allows uneven terrain to
be tackled safely and
confidently.
TUNING YOUR SUSPE ENSION SUSPENSION FORKS
SUSPENSION FORKS
A suspension foork softens the blow of a bump on the road d or trai ail.
The fork must be checked for wear and lubricated reg gggularly ly ly ly ly ly ly ly ly yyy. The
oil and springs s should be changed either when they w wwwwea ear r r rr rr or or or or or or or oor or or oor oor r oor ttt tttttttt tttttttttoooooooooooooooooo
alter the characcteristics of the fork.
How theyy work
The suspension fork oon the front wheel absorbs
the energy of a bumpp and prevents the force from
reaching the rider. The forks main spring, which
can be trapped air or a metal coil, is compressed
as the sliders move up p the stanchions. Compression
ends when the spring has absorbed the shock of the
bump. At this point, t the spring pushes the sliders
back and the fork rebbounds. Damping controls
the speed of compresssion and rebound, usually
by absorbing some off the energy of the bump
with an air or oil dam mping mechanism. This cre reat ates es
friction, which slows down the forks moveme ment nt tts. s. ss
FRONT FORK COOMPRESSION
Bunnyhopping gives a a graphic demonstration of compression and rebound. d
As the rider picks up the front of the bike to clear the log, th the fork rebound ndss
because the riders weeight has been taken off the spring. On landing ng, the fo fo ork rr
compresses as the sprring absorbs the shock of the bike and rider lan andi ding ng.
Pulling the handlebar uupward and
moving the body backw ward lifts the front
wheel so the front fork rrebounds.
Landin nnggg on the groound und und nddd ret ret ret ret t et et turn urn urn rn urn urn rns t s t s t s t s t ss t s the he he he he he he he e he e he
riders w s eig ei ei ht hh to the the he bi bi bi bbi bbi bike ke ke ke ke e k s f s f s f s f s ff s ffffram ram ram ram ram am ra ram ram ram am rame a e e a e a e a e a e a e a e aa e a eee nd nd nd nd nd nd nd nd nd nd nd nd nd d nd nd
com mpre pre resse ss ss s ttthe fro fro fro ro fro fro front nt nt nt nnnn for for fo for for fo or for ork. k. k. k. k. k
Reboun ounddd Co Co Compr mpress ession
138
Rea Rea Rea Reaccti t ct ng ng g ng g n to to ttto bu bum bum umm b mm bu uu ps ps sssss ps ssssss
Dam Dam Dam mmpin pin ppi g s g s g s g g ho ho hou hou hou hould ld ld d dd l
pre reven vennnt t t t t t t t t thhe hhe he fo forr f k f k f k f fff k f k ro rro rom om om rom ommm rommm rom ro o
rea reach ch ch chi chi ching nnng the the the ee li li limmit mit mm s o s o s o ooooo s offfffff
it its it tr trrrave ave aavve av a el, l, , but but but butt b th th th th th th the f ff e f e f ee f ee or ork or rk rkk or ork orkk oor o
sho sh uld d st stttttill ill ill l ill ill ill l be be bee b b re re re re react act ct act c ive ive ve ve vee ive ve ve ve vvee
eno en enough ghh to to to to to co ccco o cooope pe pe e pe ppe wi wit wit wit wit wwit it wwithhhhhhh
eve eve ev ry ry bum bum bum bump. pp.
How How How How How How How How Howw th th th th th th tth t ey ey ey ey ey ey e wor wor wor wor wor wor oo kkkkkkkkk
Wh Wh Wh Wh WW en een en aaa bbum u p pushes up the sliders on this fork, a piston
mo o mo ove ve ve vvesss up t the left stanchion, compressing the air. Once the
bbump has as bbeeen absorbed, the air puush shes e the e ppis i ton back and
the fork reb bou ound n s. TThe he dam mpi p ng ng mmec echa hani ism sm iin n th t e e ri righ ghtt
stanchion, which ch iiss fu full o off ooil, l aalso mmove ves up a and down wwith th
th t e bump, cont tro rolling the speed of c com ompression and d rreb ebound nd.
AIR R A RR AIR R/OI /OI /O /O /O L FORK
For F k crown
Tur ur r ur urns the fork
Brake arch
Coon on o nects the
ttwo sliders
Sli Sl Sl Slli Sli S der der rr
Mov MMov Mo MMo Mov Moves es es up up pp and and and and
dow dow dow dow down oooon t n t n t n the hhe he
sta sta sta ta tanch nch nch nch nchion iion ion io
DDam Dam Da Dampin pin pin p gggg
me mec e hanism sm m sm m
Mov Mov M es up up up up p up
and and and and n do dooooowwn wn w
wit with s hhh li lid lider
Pis Pisston ton ton t
Mov Mov o es es e up
and and do d wn w
in respon po se se
to o bum bu pss p
Oil OOO ch ccchambbeeer er er
CCon Con on on CC tains ooi oil oil il
Seal
Kee eps ps ps ps p dirt out
of forks
interior
Rig ggght ht ht
stanch hio on on
Contains n tthee th
dampin pin in inggg
mec echanis is sm smm
139
Air
cha hambe mbe b r
Con Co tai taii a ns ns
ai air
Lef Leftt
sta sta anc nch h ch c ion on on io ion
Con oon Con o tai a ns
the sprin ring
mec me hanism
and and d pi p ston
Sha SSha Sh ft ft t bol b t
Fas Fasten en t ss
sha haaft ft ft to
sli sli ide der der er
STEP LOCATOR
TUNING YOUR SUSPENSION SUSPENSION FORKS 140
Front suspension
A suspension fork works best if it has been
set up to accommodate the riders weight.
When you sit on your bike, the amount the
fork depresses, as the slider moves down the
stanchion, is called the sag. As you ride, sag
allows the fork to extend into the hollows in
the ground, giving a smooth ride. To set the
amount of sag, you can increase or decrease
the amount of preload in the fork.
Damping controls the speed at which a
fork works. To find out if a fork is working
too fast, lean on the handlebar, then quickly
lift up the front of the bike. If the suspension
fork bangs back to its limit, its action is too
quick and its rebound damping needs to be
increased. Adjust the damping still further
after a few rides. The best setup will let
the fork absorb a hit and rebound quickly
enough to be ready for the next.
Setting sag
Put a tie-wrap around the stanchion of the
unloaded fork and next to the top of the
slider. Ideally, the sag should be about 25 percent
of its available travel, though cross-country riders
often prefer less and downhillers more.
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Get off the bike and carefully measure the
distance between the tie-wrap and the top
of the slider.
Express this measurement as a proportion of

the forks available travel. If the distance is 1in
(25mm) on a 3
1
5in (80mm) fork, the proportion is
32 percent. Check the owners manual to find out
the available travel of your bike.
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Toolbox
Shock pump
Tie-wrap
Tape measure
Parts of a suspension fork
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Steerer
Air valve
Stanchion
Fork brace
Brake boss
Slider
Dropout
Crown
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Front suspension 141
Fine-tuning the fork
Sit on the bike, wearing your normal
cycling clothes.
Place both feet on the pedals. Either ask

someone to hold you upright on the bike, or lean
your elbow against a wall. The slider will travel up
the stanchion, pushing the tie-wrap with it.
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Fine-tune the damping on some forks with
an adjuster at the bottom of one of the
fork blades. The two air chambers in this fork
allow further refinements to damping.
Pump air into the bottom chamber with a

shock pump to change the spring characteristics.
Change the size of a valve on the air piston to

control air flow between chambers. This flow is
called air-damping.
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Make damping adjustments on some types
of fork while riding the bike. The controls
for these on-the-fly adjusters are usually marked
faster and slower to indicate which direction
to turn them in. It is also possible to lock out
some forks. This means that you can stop their
action if you are riding over a very smooth
surface and do not need suspension.
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Increase the air in the chamber with a
shock pump if the proportion of available
travel is greater than 25 percent.
Increase the spring preload with a coil/oil

system (there is usually a dial at the top of the
fork blade) or fit stronger springs.
Release air, reduce the preload, or fit lighter

springs if the proportion is less than 25 percent.
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TUNING YOUR SUSPENSION SUSPENSION FORKS
Coil/oil fork
If the sag has been set up correctly (see
pp.14041) but the coil/oil fork keeps
bottoming outthe fork reaches the full
extent of its travel but the spring cannot
compress any moreit will be necessary to
fit heavier-duty springs. Conversely, if the
fork only reacts to the bigger lumps and
bumps, lighter springs should be fitted.
The method of changing springs is
similar in most coil/oil forks, but check the
manufacturers manual to find the features
of the fork on the bike in question. It may
not be necessary to remove the fork blade
from the fork crown; or a spring in both
blades of the fork may need replacing; or
one blade may incorporate the spring, while
the other has the damping mechanism.
Setting up a coil/oil fork
Remove the circle clip from around the
rebound adjuster of the fork by prying it off
with a flat screwdriver. Be very careful. Do not dig
your screwdriver too far under the circle clip, but
put it far enough under so that it does not slip.
Keep your fingers away from the screwdriver to
avoid injuring yourself if it slips.
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Drop the new spring into the fork blade.
Make sure that it sits correctly in the fork
blade, then replace the top cap.
Screw the top cap in with your fingers, then

tighten it with a wrench.
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Toolbox
Wrench
Flat screwdriver
Parts of a coil/oil fork
142
STEP LOCATOR
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Steerer
Fork crown Top cap
Fork crown bolts
Stanchion
Slider
Fork brace
Brake boss
Dropout
Coil/oil fork
Undo the retaining bolts in the fork crown
so that you can drop the blades out. There
are usually four retaining bolts. Some fork crowns
do not have them, in which case undo a cap bolt
at the top of the fork blade to remove the springs.
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Put the fork blades
back in the fork crown
and secure the retaining bolts.
Follow the manufacturers

torque settings when replacing
the retaining bolts.
Reset the sag of your forks

(see pp.14041).
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Start to remove the top cap of the fork
blade with a wrench on the wrench flats,
then unscrew the cap the rest of the way out
with your fingers.
Note how the spring is sitting in the fork blade,

then lift the spring out.
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143
STEP LOCATOR
Air/oil fork
Air/oil suspension forks usually have short
travel and are popular with cross-country
riders. Their spring medium is air, which
makes them very light, and their mechanism
is damped by oil.
Sometimes they have a negative spring
working in the opposite direction of the
main air spring. This helps to overcome the
stiction (the sticky friction between two
adjacent but motionless objects) which is
inherent in air/oil suspension forks and is
caused by their very tight seals.
Changing oil is necessary from time to
time, as dirt in the system starts to cause
excessive wear. If you have increased the
damping on your fork and its action is still
too fast, replacing the oil with a heavier
one will slow it down. In the same way,
lighter oil can help to speed it up.
Changing oil
Remove the cap from the top of the
stanchion without the Schrader air valve.
This is the same kind of valve that is used on car
tires. You can carry out this following sequence of
steps with the fork still in the bike, although
it is easier if someone helps you.
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Make sure that you hold the fork blades
absolutely vertical.
Place a bowl under the fork to catch any spills.

Carefully pour new oil into the stanchion until it
is full and then replace the cap.
Use a calibrated pouring vessel to ensure that

you accurately measure the amount of oil, if the
fork manufacturer specifies.
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Toolbox
Wrench
Shock pump
Parts of an air/oil suspension fork
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Steerer
Stanchion
Brake boss
Dropout
Air valve
Slider
Fork brace
Fork crown
Air/oil fork 145
Pour the old oil out
of the stanchion and
into a plastic cup. This
air/oil fork has an open-
bath damping system, in
which the damping rod
moves up and down an
open oil bath. The oil also
lubricates the rest of the
suspension system.
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Pump air in or let air out of a fork with
negative air springs after you have replaced
the oil with one of a different viscosity.
Adjust the damping of the fork so that it works

at the speed you require, then fine-tune its action
with the negative spring.
Pump air in to make the fork more active over

small bumps. Let air out to make it less responsive.
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Put the cap back on top of the oil
stanchion and tighten it.
Set the sag again (see pp.14041), pumping air

in or letting it out to obtain the ideal sag.
Tighten the Schrader valve if, after setting up

the sag correctly, your fork works well at first, then
starts to bottom out (the valve may be leaking).
Use an automotive valve key.
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STEP LOCATOR
Looking after
suspension forks
Suspension forks soak up a lot of abuse
because that is what they are designed to
do. Although manufacturers do whatever
they can to protect the inner workings, there
are still some things you need to do to look
after your forks.
Chief among them is cleaning. If you
do not clean your forks regularly, dirt will
wear down the seals at the top of the
sliders and allow water to get into the inner
workings and damage them. Worn seals will
also allow oil to leak out, which affects the
forks performance.
Cleaning also gives you the opportunity
to examine the forks for cracks and defects.
You can also look for tell-tale signs of seal
wear, such as the absence of a dirt ring on
the stanchions after a rideyou should see
this ring after every ride.
Another one of your regular jobs is to
check the forks settings. You can set the
speed at which some forks work, along with
other features. You need to check these
settings have not been reset after a tough
ride or after cleaning.
Do not use pressure hoses to clean
suspension forks, since they can force water
into the inner workings. You need to use
a much gentler method of cleaning this
part of your bike.
Cleaning suspension forks
Remove mud and dirt with a dry, stiff-
bristled brush. Remove the front wheel if
there is a lot of mud on the fork, since it will
make the job easier.
Start at the top of the fork and brush

downward. Take care not to scrub too hard
around the fork seals.
Use smaller brushes to get into hard-to-reach

places on the fork.
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Apply light, Teflon-based lubricant to the
seals at the top of the sliders to keep them
supple and help maintain their integrity.
Apply the oil sparingly but make sure you spread

it all around the circumference of both seals.
Be careful not to spill oil on the tires of your

bike. If you do spill any, wash it off immediately
with hot, soapy water.
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Toolbox
Stiff-bristled brushes
Sponge
Oil
Degreaser
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Looking after suspension forks 147
settings dials Check the
k. Cleaning, on your for
ou use a stiff- especially when yo
n move the bristled brush, can
they are set dials. Check that t
hem for riding. where you want th
e outers or Check the cable

ver the crown hoses for wear ov
of the fork.
turn your As a final step,

for five bike upside down
edistribute minutes to help re
fork. the oil inside the
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Wipe the fork clean with a clean sponge
soaked in warm water. Wrap the sponge
around the fork to ensure they get completely
rinsed. Start from the t and work down. rinsed. Start from the top and work d
an the lower Remove the wheel so you can clea

part of the fork thoroughly.
efects while Examine the fork for cracks and de

you perform this step.
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Spray degreaser all over the fork, especially
on the stanchions, to remove the old oil
and dirta mix that could corrode the seals on
f k your fork.
Again, start sp spray raying ing de degre grease aser f r from the top of
the e fo fork rk rk rk rk rk and and an and an and wo wwo work rk rk k dow dow dow downwa nwa nwa nw rd rd. rd.
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TUNING YOUR SUSPENSION REAR SUSPENSION
REAR SUSPENSION
The rear suspension absorbs the shock caused by a bump in
the ground or rough terrain. A shock absorber must be kept
clean and lubricated, and the bushings and frame mounts
checked regularly for damage and wear.
How they work
The shock absorber of the rear suspension
mirrors the specifications of the front fork
in order to increase the riders control of
the bike. The rear triangle of the frame,
which connects the rear wheel to the shock
absorber, can move independently of the
rest of the frame on bikes that are fitted
with rear suspension.
Shock absorbers, or shocks, as they are also
known, consist of a spring medium, either a
coil or trapped air, and a shaft. The shaft is
usually connected to a damping mechanism,
which contains oil and controls the speed of
the shock absorbers action.
When the back wheel hits a bump on the road or
trail, the rear triangle moves up on its pivots,
compressing the spring, which absorbs the shock.
As the spring pushes back on the rear triangle of
the frame, the shock rebounds, pushing the rear
wheel back ready for the next bump.
When riding over smooth ground the rear shock
absorber is in a neutral position.
When riding over rough ground the rear shock is in
a compressed position to absorb bumps.
COMPRESSION OF THE SHOCK ABSORBER
148
Adjusting the shock
The shock absorber of
the rear suspension
can be adjusted to
suit different kinds
of terrain and gradients.
US_148-149-rear shocks.qxd 16/10/03 10:05 AM Page 148 (TEXT BLACK plate)
How they work
AIR/OIL SHOCK ABSORBER ANATOMY
In an air/oil shock absorber, the
spring mechanism is compressed
air that is sealed inside an air
sleeve. The damping mechanism
in the shock body contains oil.
When the bike hits a bump, the
shock body travels up inside the
air sleeve and compresses the
trapped air. Once this air spring
has absorbed the energy of
the bump, the shock absorber
begins to rebound and return
to its original position. The
shaft, which runs from the top
of the air sleeve into the shock
body, is connected to the
damping device. Oil flowing
through holes in the device
slows the action of the shock
absorber in compression and
rebound as the shock body
travels up and down.
Rear shock
Absorbs the
force of a
bump
Rear triangle
Transmits the
force of a
bump to the
rear shock
Rear wheel
Moves up
and down in
response to
bumps
Bushing
Attaches shock to frame
149
Air valve
Controls air
pressure in the
sleeve
Rebound
adjuster
Changes speed
of rebound
Shaft
Runs into
shock body
Air sleeve
Contains
compressed air
Shock body
Contains the
damping device
US_148-149-rear shocks.qxd 16/10/03 10:05 AM Page 149 (TEXT BLACK plate)
SUSPENSION REAR SUSPENSION 150
Rear suspension
A good-quality, full-suspension bike should
be designed with a rear shock absorber that
complements and works with the suspension
fork in the front. Air/oil forks are normally
accompanied by an air/oil shock, and coil/oil
systems are usually paired.
The first step in setting up a rear shock
is to adjust its sag. Take into account the
riders weight, as with suspension forks (see
pp.1401), and then fine-tune its action
by using damping and the shocks other
functions after several rides on the bike.
One simple test to see if a rear shock is
working in tune with the front fork is to
press down on the middle of the bike while
looking at how the fork and shock react.
For general riding, each should depress
about the same amount.
Add the frame mounts, to which a shock
is attached, to the routine safety checks (see
pp.323). Check the bushes that allow the
shock to pivotconsult the manufacturers
guide for instructions.
Adjusting the sag
Measure the centre-to-centre distance
between the shock-mounting bolts, with
the bike unloaded.
Familiarize yourself with the valves and various

controls of your shock before going further.
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To achieve the proportion of sag that
your riding style requires, let air out or
pump it in as needed, then take the second
measurement again.
If your bike has a coil/oil shock, increase or

decrease the pre-load to achieve the measurement
you want. The recommended range is only a guide.
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Toolbox
Tape measure
Shock pump
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Parts of a rear suspension unit of a rear suspension unit
Rebound
adjuster
Shock body
Air sleeve
pedal Pro-p
ter adjust
Air valve
Rear suspension 151
Sit on the bike
and ask someone to
measure this distance again.
Take both measurements

and calculate the second as
a percentage of the first.
This will reveal the
proportion of the shocks
overall travel that is used
as sag. For general riding,
the figure should be from a
quarter, to a third.
Cross-country racers
tend to want stiffer shocks,
so they sometimes go for a
quarter or less.
Downhill racers like

their shocks to move a
lot more. Their bikes often
feel spongy to ride on the
flat, but are really active
when descending.
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Fine-tune the damping speed of your
shock with the rebound adjusterif your
bike has one.
Turn the adjuster on an air/oil shock absorber

but follow instructions on the shock to find out
which way to turn.
Do not set it too fast because this can upset

the handling of the bike.
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Some shocks have additional features. The
pro-pedal system on this one allows you to
control pedal-induced movement of the shock.
Familiarize yourself with your shocks features

by reading the instruction manual.
Ride your bike across different terrains and see

what happens when you vary the settings. Knowing
all about your bike and the way you ride will help
you get the best out of any trail situation.
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GLOSSARY 152
GGGloossary
TTeerms iin italic within an entry
are are deffined under their own
hea he dinngs g within the glossary.
ALL ALL ENN BOLT A threaded bolt
wit ww h a a hexagonal depression
in in in the center of its head.
ALL AL EN KEY K Hexagonal a tool
tha th t fits ts Allen bolts.
BEA BEA ARIN NGG A mechanism that
usu usuuallyy consists of a number
oof bball bearings and circular
channe nnels, or races. It allows
two t me metal surfaces to move
ffreely ly w while in contact.
BLO BLO B CK K CCogs fitted to a
fre freewheeel.
BOSS Thr read e ed metal fixture
on n a bicy cycle frame to which
an n ite item such as a bottle cage
or a pannier rack is attached.
BO OTTTOM BRACKET Rotating
uni unitt t t hat connects the
ccrannkarms.
BO OTTO TOM OUT A term that
ddesccribes the point when
a su uspension fork or shock
abbsoorber reaches the limit
off its ts travel.
BRAKE- KE-LEV L ER HOOD The
body in n which the brake
lev lever ee sit sitss, con connec nectin in i g i g it to
the the ha ha handl ndl nd eba eba b r. r.
BRA RA AKKE K TRAVEL The T di dista stance nce
a b brak rake l e eve ever m r m move ove o s b s befo efo f re r
the brake ke pa pads ds engage the
braking s surface on on the rim
or hub off a wheel.
CABLE CRI RIMP MP A s A mall metal
cylinder tha tha t t iss closed at one
end an nd f d d itss ov over er the the h cut ends
of a cabl b e t e o prev vent ent fr f ayi aying. g.
CASSETTE A collectio ion of
coggs t s hat fit on the rear
wheeeels f s freehub.
CCHAINRING A toothed ring
attached to the cranka arms
that drives the chain an an nd, in
turn, the cog co s and th he r e rear
wheel of a bicycle.
CCHAINSTAY The frame m tu tube
joining the bottom brack acket
shell and rear dropou outt.. tttt
CCRANKSET The assembly bly of
chainrings and cranka arm rms.
CLEAT A plas la la tic or meta tal plate
that fits on the sole of f aa
cyclin i g s gg hoe oe and engaages ge
wit th a a h a cli c ple plesss pedal to hold
thee fo fooot on n th the he pedal.
CLIPLE ESS PEDAL A pedal with
a mech ec anism to o t engage ge the
cleattt on the so ole l of a c cyycling
shoe and hold i iit s t ecurely in
place. ee Called clip ii less because
they r y eplaced p ppeda edals that had
toe clips and straps. p
COG A circula lar m meta et l obje ject
with t h t h eeth that t is turne edd by
the chain. Combined with
other er e ccog c s, it forms a
cassette or or r block. Cogs are kk
sometimes m ca aalle l d spr s ockets.
COMPRESSION The action of
a suspension system when en it it
absorbs an impact fro fro fromm the he
ter terrai rain. n. The Thee te teerm rm m refers to thhee
co compression of the spring.
CRANKARM The lever that at
joins the pedals to the
chainrings and trans sfe fers
energy from thee ri riders legs
to the drivet vetrai rainn of of the bike.
DAMPIN PING The proceess ss tha t t
ab abs a orbs the energy off an an
impact transmitted throu ouggh a
sus spen pen ension system. It cont ntrol ro s
theee sp sp peed eed e at which any form rm
of f f sus uspen pennsion responds to
une n u ven en te t rrain.
DERAILLEUR Device that
pushes the chain onto a
larger or smaller chainr rin ng or
cog. See also Derailleur g r gears.
DERAILLEUR GEARS A s syst y em
that shifts the chain beetw tween
cogs on the rear wheel l ((rear
der d ailleur) and between
cha ch ch inrings attached too
cra ra r nkarms (front derai ill leur);
it all all al ows multiple gearinng
on bik bbikes. e
DOW OWN T N UBE The frame ame tube
tha th t jjoins the bottom-brack ck acket
shell to the hea ad tube.
DRIVET VET ETRAI R N The assemmbly bb
of ped e pe als, crankset, chai in, n, tt
and d nd cogs that drives the th the
bik ike forward by co c nveert rting
the he he riders leg power in nto t
whe eel rotation.
DROPOU OUT A slotted plate ate at
the en nd of the fork blad ades
and an n sttays ays ys, into which the axle
of a w a hee h l is attached. d.
EXPANDER E BOLT A bolt olt that
draws s up up a t aa runcated ccone
or ttriangle of of met metal a ins nside a
mettal a tube in order t r to w o edge
the tube in place. Commonly
found nd inside the stem t of a
threaded headset. tt
FRE F EHU EHUB A mechanism, part
of f the the hu hhub, that a t allows the
rrear wh wheel ee e to rotate while the
ped e pe als s l remain s stat ta tation io ary.
FREEWH W EEL A mechanism
that does the same job a as a s
freehub but can be scre cre cr wed
on or off the hub. b
GEA GEARR An An exp exprression of
the chainring and cog
com ombin binat ation, n li linke nked b d by t y the he
cha hain, that propels the bik bike.
Glossary 153
GEA EAR-S R HIFT LEVER The
conntro tr l mechanism, m usu usuall allyy
on on thhe handlebar, used to
initiaate gear-shifts.
GRRU R BB SCREW A headless,
thr threa eaded bolt that has a
sin singl gle di diaamete ter throughout ut
iits le ength.
HEA EADSE D T The bearing unit
tthat attaches the forks to a
frame and allows them to
turn. There are two varieties:
threaded and threadless.
HEAD TUBE The frame tube
through which the he steerer
tube runs.
HEXAGONAL BOLT OR NUT
A threaded bolt with a
hexagonal head, or or a
hexagonal nut that fits
onto a threaded bolt.
HYDRAULIC A type of f
mec me han nica ic l system tha hat t uses
com co pressed fflui luid t d to move ov
an n ob object.
LOC LO KRING/LOCKNUT A ring
or nut used to tighten onto
a threaded object and lock
it in place.
NEGATIVE SPRING A device
that works against the main n
spring in a suspension
syystem. In compression, forr
ex example, a negative spring
wworks to extend the fork,
hhelping to overcome the
effects of stiction.
NIP PPLE PL P The piece of metal
aattac ached to the end of a
cablle that secures the cabble
in in the th control lever.
PLA AYY A term describing an any
looseness in mechanical al parts.
QUI QUICK CK-RELEASE MECHANISM
A lever connected to a s a skew kewer er
that locks or releases a
component from the frame.
REBOUND A term to describe
the action of a suspension
sys ystem te after it absorbs an
imp impact act fr from om the the te terra rrain.
It refers to th t e exte xtensi s on
of the systems ms sprin ng. g
SEA SEA EATT POST ST A hollow tub tub u ee
tha haat holds the saddle dle and i d is
iinserted inntoo the he sea seat tube.
SE SEA E T STAY The Th fr frame ame tube
jjoining t g t g the hh bot bottom om b bracket
sshell and an re eear ar dro dro r pou poutt. tt
SEA EAT TUBE UBE The The frrame me tube
tha hat h t holds the sea seat p t post ost. tt
SID SIDEWALLL PPart of thee t e ire
betwee een the tread an nd ri r m.
STE STE S ERER TUBE UBE The Thhe tu tube bbe tha that
connects s tthe he fork to to the the the ste tem
and ha haandl ndl nd eba eba eb r. rr
STE STE TEM The compo mponen nen nent t t that hat
connec ne ne ts the thee ha handl nd eba bar t r too
the he he ste ste steerer tube.
STICTION A term m t that
combines ees the wo ords stat at atic
and friction. It t It d describbes the he he
tension betweenn movinng a g and nd
sta st tic i parts at re e rest, such ch h as as
the the t seals and s d taanchions ns ns in
a sus uspen pe pe sion foork.
STOPPER P P R IN IN Thhe Th end of a
cantilever or V V-br -brake return
spring that fits ii s nto a
locating hole o on the h bik bikes e s
brake-mounti inng bosses.
SUS SSU PENSION AAn air//oi /o l l or
coi c l/oil systemm that abs a orbs
the h bumps frrom a t trail or
road. The syss ystem is either
integrated iinnnto thee fork or
connected to to the r e rear wheel
via a linkag gee.
THREADS The sp spiraal g l groo rooves ves
cut cut in into metal that allow
seppar arate te pa parts to be screwed
or boolted d to t gether.
TTOOP OP TTUBE The frame tube
th tha h tt joins the seat tube to
the the head tube.
TR TRA AVEL VVEL A t A erm that refers
to the th the ttotal distance a
com com mponent moves in carrying
ou out its purpose. For example,
traavel in a suspension fork is
the total distance the fork
has available to move in
order to absorb a shock.
Bra Brake ke tra travel vel is the distance
b a brake leveerr must be pulled
befffore or the brak rakes es fully
contac act t t tthe hh braking s g surf urface ace.
TREAD Thhe centr ral al par ppa t of a f a
tire that m makes conta tact witthh
the groun ndd.
VIS S V COS OOSITY A A rating system fo foor
oils, which also refers to the
wei wweight ght. A ligght oil has low
viscosity andd moves more
qui qui q ckl ck y t y han a heavy oil
thr thr h oug ough a h a h a gi ggiven en dam ddampin pingg
mec mec mechan han hanism ism ism. T . T This hi re results in a
fas fas faster ter ter-ac ac actin tti g sus spen pen pensio s n
sys sys system tem tem or oo reduc duc duced ee dampinn p g. g. g.
WHE WHE WH EL EEL JIG JIG A s A stan tan andd t d hat hat hat ho hh lds
a w wwhee eeel s l o t o o hat hat at it its r s r s rim im im run runs
bet be betwee ww n t n two oo jaw ja jaws. Use Used in
truing a whe whe h w el el aft aft af er e rrep r lac cing g ing
a broken spooke. ke. e
A
adult's bike, setting up 1819
air sleeve 149, 150
air valve 13, 104, 144, 149, 150
air-damping 141
air/oil fork 139, 1445, 146
Allen bolt/wrench 13, 256, 152
antiseize compound 13
axle
cartridge-bearing bottom
bracket 703
hollow-axle bottom bracket
701, 745
hub quick-release mechanism
98, 99
nut 102, 134
open-bearing hub 989,
1001
pedal 13, 17, 18, 78, 801
B
band-on derailleur 52
bar end 94
barrel, chain 63
barrel adjuster
brake 111, 114, 119, 122, 129,
1345
gear-shifter 48, 60
rear derailleur 12, 54
basic bike 1011, 1415
bearing 152
BMX bottom bracket 17, 70,
767
703
gear hub 6
headset 889, 93
hollow-axle bottom 701,
745
hub 98100
lubrication 30
pedal 78, 80
bleeding hydraulic disc brake
1323
block, freewheel 667, 152
BMX bike 16, 17
bottom bracket 17, 70, 767
chain 64
U-brake 1223
bolt 152, 153
Allen 13, 25, 26, 152
cable-clamp 110, 120, 122,
128, 134
pivot 110, 118, 120
rotor-mounting 128
stem 13, 88, 90
tightening 246
boss, brake 110, 140, 142, 144,
152
bottom bracket 12, 701
BMX 17, 70, 767
cartridge-bearing 703
hollow-axle 701, 745
Isis 72
lockring 70, 76
lubrication 30
replacement 727
servicing 345, 53
Shimano Octalink 72
square-tapered 723
tools 25
brake 11, 12
adjustment 17, 11619, 1223
alternative designs 1223
arch 139
boss 110, 140, 142, 144, 152
braking surface 1245
Campagnolo 117
cleaning 29, 114
combined shifter 45
danger signs 389
drum, see roller brake
fluid 1245, 1323
handlebar compatibility 94,
96
hose 1245, 130
maintenance 15, 17, 345,
11217
safety checks 32, 389, 133
servicing 345
Shimano 11617
shoe 116, 118
spring 110, 124
toe-in 120
troubleshooting 367
working of 11011, 1245
see also cable disc brake;
calliper brake; cantilever
brake; coaster brake; hub-
mounted brake; hydraulic
disc brake; rim brake; roller
brake; U-brake; V-brake
brake arm 12, 29, 34
cantilever brake 120
rim brake 11011, 120, 122
roller brake 134
U-brake 122
V-brake 119
brake cable
cable tidy 114, 152
cutting outer 26
drop handlebar 11213,
1201
guide tube 12, 110
hub-mounted brake 1245,
1267, 128, 130, 1345
lubrication 301, 345,
11215
maintenance 15, 345,
11415
rim brake 102, 110, 11415,
116, 118, 1201, 122
split or frayed 39, 128
straight handlebar 11415
brake lever 13
barrel adjuster 111, 114, 119,
122, 129, 1345
brake travel 152, 153
drop handlebar 96, 112
gear-shifter combination
INDEX 154
Index
Index 155
45, 467
hood 45, 96, 112, 152
hub-mounted brake 125
hydraulic 125, 127
nipple 111, 112, 114, 122
piston 1245
position/reach adjustment 18,
19, 114
rim brake 11011
side-pull caliper brake 122
straight handlebar 94, 114
brake pad 12, 15, 16, 17
cable disc brake 124, 1267
caliper brake 11617, 1223
cantilever brake 120
coaster brake 124
hub-mounted brake 124
hydraulic disc brake 124
maintenance 32, 34, 1267
rim brake 11011
roller brake 124
troubleshooting 367
V-brake 11819
braze-on derailleur 52
bunnyhopping 138
bushing 149, 150
C
cable, see brake cable; gear
cable
cable disc brake 124, 1267,
128
cable-clamp 44, 50, 53, 54
bolt 110, 120, 122, 128, 134
cable-guide tube 12, 110
caliper brake 17, 102, 114
adjusting 11617
brake lever 116
cable 110
cable disc brake 126
hydraulic disc brake 124, 125,
128
quick-release mechanism 117
side-pull 1223
Campagnolo
caliper brake 117
gear-shifter 45, 96
wheel hub 100
cantilever brake 102, 110, 1223
adjusting 1201
cable 110, 114, 1201
carbon fibre, and lubrication 31,
131
carrier unit 56
bracket 703
cassette 152
cleaning 28, 289
lockring 62
maintenance 17
profile 62
removal 667
replacement 17
tools 25, 29, 66
working of 623, 66
chain
barrel 63
cleaning 289
derailleur 645
gear-shifter and 44, 501
joining pin 63, 64
links 63, 64
lubrication 15, 29, 30, 41
measuring device 25, 64
replacement 15, 645
safety checks 33
servicing 345
Shimano 645
split-link 645
troubleshooting 367
wear estimation 64
weatherproofing 41
whip 25
working of 44, 623
chainring 13, 15, 51, 62, 63, 68,
76, 152
cleaning 28
danger signs 38
removal 69
servicing 345
chainstay 12, 32, 152
child's bike
handlebar adjustment 201
setting up 201, 767
threaded headset 923
cleaning/degreasing 289, 30
cleat, pedal 78, 82, 83, 845,
152
cleat-release mechanism, pedal
80, 82, 83
clipless pedal 11, 41, 78, 825,
152
coaster brake 124
coil/oil fork 141, 1423
common problems 367
commuting bike 14
compression 138, 139, 148, 152
see also suspension
cone 76, 78, 99
crank 701, 152
crankset and drivetrain 13, 68
crank-removing tool 25, 68
pedal 701, 78, 80
Crank Brothers pedal 83
crank puller and bolt remover 25
crankset 152
cleaning 289
removal 689, 72
3-piece 10, 767
triple 10
working of 623, 68
cup
BMX bottom bracket 70, 76
bottom 13, 88, 90, 92
fixed 70, 72
free 70, 72
top 13, 88, 89, 90, 92
D
damping
disc brake 152
fork 138, 139, 140, 1445
danger signs 26, 389
see also safety checks
INDEX 156
degreasing 289, 30
derailleur 40, 153
adjustment 50, 51, 525
band-on 52
barrel adjuster 12
braze-on 52
cage 51, 52
cleaning 289, 52, 54
front, see front derailleur
jockey wheel 12, 30, 345,
44, 501, 545, 62
lubrication 29, 30, 41, 501,
54, 78
maintenance 52
plate 12, 50, 51
rear, see rear derailleur
safety checks 33
servicing 345
troubleshooting 367
weatherproofing 41
working of 10, 12, 445, 501
derailleur gear 62, 645, 98, 152
maintenance 15, 17
disc brake 10, 11, 34
cable 124, 1267, 128
damping 152
hydraulic, see hydraulic disc
brake
lubrication 128
maintenance 1289
rotor 126, 1289
driver unit, hub gear 56
drivetrain 10, 13, 152
see also chain; chainring;
crankset; pedal; sprocket
drop handlebar 16, 17, 967
brake cable 11213, 1201
brake lever 96, 112
gear cable 467
drop-out 12, 102, 140, 142, 144,
152
drum brake, see roller brake
Dual Control gear-shifter,
Shimano 49
F
flange, hub 62, 98, 100
flat pedal 11, 78
folding bike 1415, 15
foot retention mechanism 13,
78, 823
see also pedal cleat
fork
air/oil 139, 1445, 146
brace 139, 140, 142, 144
cleaning 1467
coil/oil 141, 1423
compression 138, 139, 152
crown 13, 88, 139, 140,
1423, 144
damping 1389, 140, 1445
drop-out 140, 142, 144, 152
headsets 88, 89
leg 13, 142
lockout 141
lubrication 345, 1445, 146
maintenance 1467
pistons 139
sag setting 1403, 145
seal 139
servicing 345
Shrader air valve 1445
slider 13, 139, 140, 142, 144
spring 138, 142, 144
stanchions 139, 140, 142, 144
troubleshooting 367
working of 11, 138
frame 10
aluminum 33
anatomy 12
carbon-fiber 31, 33
chainstay 12
metal fatigue 323
protector pads 17
safety checks 323, 150
seat stay and tube 12
steel 16
freehub 100, 152
freewheel 152
removal 667
working of 66, 98
front derailleur 41, 44, 501
adjustment 523
outer arm 51
front suspension, see fork
front wheel
hub 98, 99, 100
removal 103
G
gear 152
adjustment 601
control 445
danger signs 39
derailleur 15, 62, 64
hub 5661
lubrication 15, 34
ring 56
safety checks 33
satellite 56, 58
servicing 345
Shimano Nexus hub 56, 589
SRAM 58
Sturmey Archer 58, 60
working of 56, 58
gear cable 445, 50, 589
cutting outer 26
danger signs 39
drop handlebar 467
maintenance 15, 34
split or frayed 34, 39
gear-shifter 11, 13
barrel adjuster 48, 60
Campagnolo 45, 96
combined brake lever 45
drop handlebar 467
maintenance 445, 60
Shimano 469
SRAM 469
working of 445, 501
grease
applying 301
removing 289, 30
Index 157
servicing timetable 345
weatherproofing treatment
401
see also lubrication
grip 13, 94, 95, 967
H I J
hairspray on grips 95
handlebar 13, 94, 96
adjustment 201, 923
drop, see drop handlebar
maintenance 345
replacement 947
riser bars 94, 114
safety checks 32
stem 13, 88, 89, 92, 153
straight, see straight
handlebar
tape 967
headset 17, 347, 153
adjustment 901
bearing 889, 93
cleaning 901
fork connection 88, 89
sealing 40
threaded 89, 923
threadless 88, 901
working of 889, 90, 92
high and low adjuster, derailleur
50, 51, 523, 55
hollow-axle crank cap and cup
tools 25
hose, brake 1245, 130
hub
axle quick-release 98, 99
flange 62, 98, 100
lockring 99, 100
open-bearing 989, 1001
rear 12, 98, 100
hub-mounted brake
cable 1245, 126, 128, 130
see also cable disc brake;
coaster brake; hydraulic disc
brake; roller brake
hybrid bike 1011, 1415, 1201
hydraulic disc brake 16
brake fluid replacement
1323
installing 1301
lever 1245, 127
piston 1245
working of 124, 130
inner tube 13, 1045
valve 13, 104
Isis bottom bracket 72
jockey wheel 12, 30, 345, 44,
501, 545, 62
joining pin 63, 64
K L M
knurled retainer 78, 80, 81
lever, see brake lever;
gear-shifter
lockring/locknut 12, 153
bottom bracket 70, 76
cartridge hub 100
cassette 62
flat pedal 78
headset 92
hub 99, 100
Look road pedal 82
low and high adjuster, derailleur
50, 51, 523, 55
lubrication 17
applying 301
bearing 30
brake cable 301, 345,
11215
cable 301, 345, 467, 48,
59, 11215
and carbon fiber 31
chain 15, 29, 30, 41
derailleur 29, 30, 41, 501,
54, 78
dry lube 30
fork 345, 1445, 146
gear cable 301, 467, 48
headset 30, 90, 923
pedal 41, 803
rear derailleur 30, 41
removing 289, 30
servicing timetable 345
viscosity 153
weatherproofing treatment
401
wet lube 30
see also grease
mountain bike 1213, 1617
brake cables 11415, 1201
gear cables 489
off-road pedal 83, 845
riser bars 96
V-brake adjustment 114,
11819, 120
mudguard 40, 41
multitools 25
N O P
negative spring 144, 153
Nexus hub gear, Shimano 589
nipple 153
brake lever 111, 112, 114, 122
pear 112, 122
spoke 106Octalink bottom
bracket axle 72
off-road pedal 83, 845
oil, see lubrication
outer arm, front derailleur 51
pear nipple 112, 122
pedal 10, 40
axle 13, 17, 18, 78, 801
bearing 78, 80
cleaning 41, 823
cleat 78, 82, 83, 845, 152
cleat-release mechanism 80,
82, 83
clipless 11, 41, 78, 823,
845, 152
crank 701, 78, 80
Crank Brothers 83
flat 11, 78
foot retention mechanism 13
INDEX 158
knurled retainer 78, 80, 81
Look road 82
lubrication 41, 803
off-road 83, 845
release mechanism 80, 82, 83
replacement 17, 801
retention mechanism 13, 78,
823
road 82
servicing 345
Shimano off-road 83
Time 82, 83
toe clips 78
working of 789, 80
piston
fork 139
hydraulic brake 1245
pivot
bolt 110, 118, 120
joint 41, 50, 51, 52, 54
plate spring 50, 51
pliers 25, 26
preride safety checks 323,
389
problem-solving chart 367
profile, cassette 62
pumps 25
puncture repair 1045
Q R
quick-release mechanism 153
caliper brake 117
hub axle 98, 99
wheel 12, 1023
quill 89, 92
race 70, 90, 92
race level road bike 1617, 17
Rapidfire gear-shifter 49
reach adjustment 18, 19, 114
rear hub 12, 98, 100
rear derailleur 12, 15, 501, 62
adjusting 545
barrel adjuster 12, 54
cable 445
lubrication 30, 41
rear suspension 17
compression 1489
pro-pedal adjuster 150
sag adjustment 1501
rear wheel removal 1023
rebound 138, 139, 148, 153
adjuster 149, 150
see also suspension
release mechanism
pedal 80, 82, 83
quick-release, see quick-
release mechanism
retainer, knurled 78, 80, 81
retention mechanism
pedal 13, 78, 823
riding position
adult 1819
child 201
rim 13, 39, 104
straightening 1067
see also tire; wheel
rim brake 11, 39, 102
drop handlebar 11213
working of 11011
see also caliper brake;
cantilever brake; U-brake;
V-brake
ring clamp 48
ring gear 56
riser bars 94, 114
road bike 16, 17
drop handlebar gear cable
11213
road pedal 82
roller bearing, see bearing
roller brake 124
brake arm 134
cable replacement 1345
rotor cleaner 129
S
saddle 12
adjustment, adult 1819
adjustment, child 201
sealing seat post collar 40
seat pin and stem 21, 31, 41
seat post 12, 40, 153
seat stay and tube 12, 153
danger signs 26, 389
troubleshooting 367
sag setting, fork 1403, 145
salt 40
satellite 56, 58
removal 601
servicing 345
setting up
adult's bike 1819
child's bike 201
shifter, see gear-shifter
Shimano
brake 11617
chain 645
hollow-axle bottom bracket
84
Dual Control gear-shifter 49
gear-shifter 469
Nexus hub gear 56, 589
Octalink bottom bracket 72
off-road pedal 83
Rapidfire gear-shifter 49
wheel hub 1001
shock absorber
air/oil anatomy 149
damping 149
sag adjustment 1501
shock pump 25, 141
shoe, see brake shoe; pedal cleat
Shrader fork air valve 1445
slider, fork 13, 139, 140, 142,
144
spanners 25, 26
specialized bike 16
see also BMX bike; mountain
bike; road bike
split-link chain 645
spoke 13, 104
key and ruler 25
replacement 1067
see also wheel
Index 159
spring
brake 110, 124
fork 138, 142, 144
negative 144, 153
plate 50, 51
shock absorber 148, 149
see also suspension
sprocket 12, 38, 51, 56, 62, 66,
153
square-tapered bottom bracket
723
SRAM gear-shifter 469
stanchions, fork 139, 140, 142,
144
star washer 88
steering
headset, see headset
safety checks 32
servicing 345
steerer 13, 89, 140, 142, 144
steerer tube 13, 88, 153
troubleshooting 367
see also handlebar
stem, handlebar 13, 88, 89, 92,
153
stiction 144, 153
straddle clamp 122
straddle and straddle wire 1201
straight handlebar
brake cable 11415
fitting 945
gear cable 489
Sturmey Archer, 3-speed gear
58, 60
suspension 11, 16, 17, 153
compression 1389, 148, 152
damping, see damping
fork, see fork
lubrication 17, 34
mountain bike 16, 17
negative spring 144, 153
rear 14851
rear, see rear suspension
rebound, see rebound
sag 1401, 1501
servicing 345
shaft 148, 149
shock absorber, see shock
absorber
troubleshooting 367
T
tape, handlebar 967
3-piece crankset 10, 767
Time pedals 82, 83
timetable, servicing 345
toe-in brake 120
tools and workshop 247
torque gauge 24
transmission, see cable; chain;
derailleur; shifters
travel 153
tread 153
wear 15, 39
troubleshooting 367
danger signs 389
troubleshooting chart 367
truing, wheel 1067
tire 10, 11, 17
bead 13
bulge 33, 39
danger signs 389
inner tube 13, 1045
pressure 33
puncture repair 1045
puncture resistance 11
replacing 105
sidewall 153
split 39
tread, see tread
wear signs 15, 102
U V
U-brake 1223
utility bike 1415
V-brake 102, 110, 120
adjusting 11819
cable 102, 110, 11415, 118
cable replacement 11415
valve
fork, air/oil 1445
tire 13, 104
vice, bench 25
viscosity, lubrication 153
W
washing and degreasing 289,
30
wedge 88, 89
wet weather 401, 114
best brakes for 1245
wheel 10, 13
carbon rims 16
cassette, see cassette
child's bike sizes 20
cleaning 289
danger signs 389
derailleur, see derailleur
jig 106, 153
levers, quick-release 33, 34
lubrication 30
mudguard 40, 41
quick-release 12, 1023
removal 1023
rim straightening 1067
safety checks 323
servicing 345
size 20
spoke, see spoke
troubleshooting 367
truing 1067
wheel hub 12, 13, 128
Campagnolo 100
cartridge 98
freewheel, see freewheel
front 98, 99, 100
lubrication 101
maintenance 1001
open-bearing 989, 1001
rear 12, 98, 100
Shimano 1001
working of 989, 100
workshop principles 267
workstand 25
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 160
Acknowledgments
PLEASE NOTE
Bicycle maintenance is potentially hazardous. While the information in
this book has been prepared with the readers personal safety in mind, the reader may help to
reduce the inherent risks involved by following these instructions precisely. The scope of this
book allows for some, but not all, the potential hazards and risks to be explained to the reader.
Therefore, the reader is advised to adopt a careful and cautious approach when following the
instructions, and if in any doubt, to refer to a good bike shop or specialist.
Authors
acknowledgments
Pip Morgan and Richard Gilbert
for their patient and diplomatic
editorial work.
Ted Kinsey for designing
everything so that the writing
makes sense.
Dave Marsh of the Universal
Cycle Centre for technical
advice regarding road bikes.
Wayne Bennett of Dont Push It
Mountain Bikes for advice
regarding mountain bikes.
Tim Flooks of TF Tuned Shox for
advice regarding suspension.
Gerard Brown for his excellent
pictures and Guy Andrews for
getting together the equipment
we needed to show all the
aspects of bike maintenance.
Jo Jackson and Keith and
Barbara Oldfield for help when
the authors computer broke
down, twice.
Finally, all the bike companies
who lent their equipment for
our photoshoots.
Publishers
acknowledgments
Original edition produced by:
Senior Art Editor Kevin Ryan,
Art Editor Michael Duffy,
Managing Editor Adle Hayward,
Managing Art Editor Karen Self,
Category Publisher Stephanie
Jackson, Art Director Peter Luff,
DTP Designers Rajen Shah, Adam
Shepherd, Production Controller
Kevin Ward
Design: Janice English, Simon
Murrell, Dawn Young
DTP Design: Gemma Casajuana
Photoshoot Art Director: Jo Grey
Picture Research: Carolyn Clerkin
Proofreading: Lynn Bresler
Illustrations: Kevin Jones and
Matthew White at Kevin Jones
Associates, Tim Loughead at
Precision Illustration Ltd.
Additional photography: Jill
and Steve Behr at Stockfile
Models: Jay Black, Chris Hopkins,
James Millard, Simon Oon, Helen
Rosser, Rochele Whyte
Cycling models: Hsu Minh
Chung, Jamie Newell, Claire
Paginton, Hannah Reynolds,
Simon Richardson, Kelli Salone,
Ross Tricker, Russell Williams
Accessory, component, and
bicycle suppliers:
Ian Young at Moore Large for
Schwinn BMX; Caroline Griffiths
at Madison for Profile, Shimano,
Finish Line, Park, Ridgeback,
Cervelo, and Commencal; Ross
Patterson and Jon Holdcroft at
ATB sales for Electra and Marin
bikes; Collette Clensy at Giant
Bikes; Adrian at Pashley
bicycles; Evans Cycles in
Wandsworth and Milton Keynes;
Cedric at Luciano Cycles,
Clapham; Sam at Bikepark,
Covent Garden; Richard at Apex
Cycles, Clapham; Graham at
SRAM; Shelley at Continental;
Trek UK; Mike Cotty at
Cannondale; Richard Pascoe of
RicciBike Chain; RJ Chicken;
and Fisher Outdoor Leisure.
Picture credits
The publisher would like to
thank the following for their
kind permission to reproduce
their photographs:
567: Stockfile/Steve Behr;
150: Fox Racing Shox.
All other images
DK Images.
For further information see
www.dkimages.com

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CHRIS SIDWELLS

Check the gear cab bble le es s

Check the brake

Check the tires for

Regularly change the he he

Regularly lubr rric icat ate

Regularly y cch c eck k th t eee

RReguuularl rl rly yy ch ch cheec eck k tth thee

Regu g larly y ch heck th t ee

Regu g larly clean n an an anddd

Regularly check and

Regularly check hub

Pay extra attention to

Regularly y clea an n andd

Make routine s safety

Ch Chec eck thhe braakes

Make sure e ggears aare

Check fram mmee ppr p otector

Set up uup p tt tthe e sus spe ppe pensiioon

Regu guula larrl r y y clea aann n and

Inspppec ect t al all l pivo vo vots and

Check brake cables es o orrr

Replace the cass seette

Se erv rv rvic ic i e the he heaadse et

RRegularly ch cheeck k thhee

Re Re Repl p ace the pe pe peda dals ls s

Ad Ad djju j st the h b bbra ra ake ke kes s foooorr

Set your crankarms so that the pedal farthest

Put the heel of your foot on the pedal. Your leg

Undo the saddle clamp under the saddle. On

Repeat Steps 4 and 5 until you are sure you

Set your crankarms parallel to the floor. The

Undo the seat pin clamp bolt. Raise or lower

Ask your helper to ride behind you and make

Undo the brake cable (see pp.11819) and 9

Set the brake levers at an angle to the handlebar

Knock the bolt down with a plastic mallet to

Allen key multi-tool

Place a chain holder in the rear dropout to

Apply a degreaser to remove any old oil and

Dip the sponge in hot, soapy water and wrap it

Use the same sponge to wash the rear

Work the bristles in between the spokes and

Use diff fferent-sized, har rd- d-

Rinse se with clea ean n water

UUse a sp sponge ge g to to wo wwork rk r

Rep pllac lac ccee thhe wh whe heels an nddd

Make sure you flush out any

Hold a cloth underneath the

Place a blob of grease o on the nnipple en ennd o d f the

Check around the area where the chainstay

Apply the front brake. Tighten

Remove anything stuck in

Try twisting the bar upward

Pull the new cable all the way through the

To do this with Shimano and SRAM shifters,

To do this with Campagnolo shifters, push

Allen key multi-tool

Ensure metal ferrules are fitted to both ends of

Refasten the cable so that it is in exactly the

Ensure that you pull the cable tight through

Note the path by which the cable enters the

If the cable is frayed, cut off the frayed end

For Shimano shifters the cable emerges from