Bon Appetit 2014-12

> Crackling Glazed Ham P.
98
Challah + Babka = Genius P. 101

Showstopping Rib Roast P. 92
DECEMBER 2014
BONAPPE T IT.COM
How to keep all

those guests & in-laws
happy and well fed
P. 96
The Years Best Cookbooks P. 54
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BON APPTIT VOLUME 59 NUMBER 12
THE H
LID
I
AY
SSU
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F E AT U R E S
78
96
Blow minds this

year with saffronflecked lollipops
and other stunner
sweets from
San Franciscos
Craftsman and
Wolves.
RECIPES BY
WILLIAM WERNER
The cooking. The

in-laws. The parties.
Weve got everything
you need to make
it through alive.
RECIPES BY
CLAIRE SAFFITZ
88
INTO THE
WOODS
THE FISH,
THE FOWL &
THE ROAST
Showstopping,
gasp-inducing
centerpiece
entres to secure
your place in family
holiday history.
RECIPES BY
ALISON ROMAN
A double rainbow
of freeze-dried delights
takes our cover cookie
to the next level.
P. 78
8 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M D EC E M B E R 2 0 14
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THE BON APPTIT

HOLIDAY
SURVIVAL GUIDE
106
Andrew Knowlton
treks deep into the
Norwegian forest for
a snowy, dreamlike
Christmas feastin
a teepee.
ON THE COVER
Lavender Shortbread
with Fruits, Flowers,
and Herbs (for
recipe, see page 84).
Photograph by
Michael Graydon
+ Nikole Herriott.
Food styling by
Susan Spungen.
Prop styling by
Theo Vamvounakis.
PHOTOGRAPH BY MICHAEL GRAYDON + NIKOLE HERRIOTT. FOOD STYLING BY SUSAN SPUNGEN. PROP STYLING BY THEO VAMVOUNAKIS.
IMMACULATE
CONFECTION
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B O N A P P E T I T. C O M
SSU
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STA RT E R S
T H E B A K I TC H E N
C O LU M N S
19
43
16
THE BA GIFT
GUIDE 2014
Twelve gift-giving
commandments
to steer you right
for the food lovers
on your list.
34
THE BA Q&A
Funnyman
Seth Meyers on
his chimichanga
nightmares.
BY ANDREW PARKS
36
THE BA
CHECKLIST
Celeb chef stamps,

a charitable tote,
and more of this
months musts.
FAST, EASY,
FRESH
Sizzling shrimp
and other
winter warmers.
BY BA TEST KITCHEN
54
A COOKS GUIDE
TO COOKBOOKS
Eleven cookbooks
for the kitchen
counterthe
bookshelf can wait.
60
THE PARTY
A caviar- and vodkafueled New Years

from our comrades
at PDXs Kachka.
BY AMIEL STANEK
67
THE
OBSESSIVORE
Adam Sachss mad

quest for a fruitcake
worth keeping.
70
NAVIGATOR
Falling for the

new Marrakech.
BY ALEXANDER
LOBRANO
127
PREP SCHOOL
Decoding duck,
braiding babkallah,
and more.
38
134
Getting fancy
with the kids on
New Years Eve.
BY JENNY
ROSENSTRACH AND
ANDY WARD
At the holiday tavola

with the inimitable
Giorgio Armani.
BY TORY HOEN
THE PROVIDERS
Somewhere in
this frosty Norwegian
forest, crispy-skinned
pork belly awaits.
R.S.V.P.
Reader requests and

editor favorites.
BACK OF
THE NAPKIN
IN EVERY ISSUE
14 editors letter
132 recipe index
132 sourcebook
P. 106
PHOTOGRAPH BY ANDERS OVERGAARD
THE H
LID
I
AY
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HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT A RECIPE, OR A COMMENT? E-mail us at askba@bonappetit.com, or contact the editorial offices: Bon Apptit, 4 Times Square, New York, NY 10036.
FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS AND CHANGES OF ADDRESS, call 800-765-9419 (515-243-3273 from outside the U.S.A.) or e-mail subscriptions@bonappetit.com. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
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I should
not admit this, but
I dont actually have a
copy of Mastering the
Art of French Cooking
and I would very
much like one.
S.R.
Editor in Chief
ADAM RAPOPORT
Creative Director ALEX GROSSMAN
Executive Editor CHRISTINE MUHLKE
Digital Director STACEY C. RIVERA
Managing Editor GREG FERRO
Food Editor CARLA LALLI MUSIC
Deputy Editor SCOTT DESIMON Restaurant & Drinks Editor ANDREW KNOWLTON
Special Projects Editor ASHLEA HALPERN
Senior Editor MERYL ROTHSTEIN
Associate Restaurant Editor JULIA KRAMER
Assistant Editor JOANNA SCIARRINO Editorial Assistant BELLE CUSHING
Art Director KRISTIN EDDINGTON
Deputy Art Director MIKE LEY
Designer TIMOTHY MCSWEENEY
Junior Designer ALAINA SULLIVAN
Photo Director ALEX POLLACK
Photo Editor JULIA DUQUETTE PORTER
Associate Photo Editor RACHEL TOMLINSON
Staff Photographer ALEX LAU Photo Assistant ELIZABETH JAIME OSCOFF
Senior Food Editor DAWN PERRY Recipe Editor LIESEL DAVIS
Senior Associate Food Editor ALISON ROMAN
Assistant Food Editor CLAIRE SAFFITZ
Test Kitchen Manager BRAD LEONE
WHAT DO YOU WANT

FOR THE HOLIDAYS?
Assistant Managing Editor FAYE CHIU MOSLEY

Copy Chief GREG ROBERTSON
Production Director CRISTINA MARTINEZ
Assistant Production Manager ALEX DELANY
Research Director CHRISTINE PENBERTHY
Assistant to the Editor in Chief AMIEL STANEK
Senior Web Editor CAREY POLIS

Web Writer ROCHELLE BILOW
Digital Art Director ALICIA BROOKS Senior Digital Project Manager KAITLYN WONG
Web Developer DANYLO BERKO Associate Developer MELISSA FINKELSTEIN
Contributors MONIKA BIEGLER EYERS, MELISSA HAMILTON, CHRISTOPHER HIRSHEIMER, DITTE ISAGER,
REBECCA JURKEVICH, DAVID LYNCH, MICKEY RAPKIN, JENNY ROSENSTRACH, ADAM SACHS, ANDY WARD;
JESSIE DAMUCK, ALFIA MUZIO, JACKIE OURMAN (TEST KITCHEN); RANDY HARTWELL, CARA CANNELLA
(RESEARCH); COREY MARSEY, BEN VINA, SHELLEY WOLSON (TABLET); LILLI SHERMAN (PUBLIC RELATIONS)
Executive Director, Public Relations & Events FREDERIKA BROOKFIELD
Associate Director, Public Relations DAN ALDWORTH
Artistic Director
I know
its not practical
for my tiny apartment
kitchen, but I would
really dig a stainlesssteel KitchenAid stand
mixerwith all of
the attachments.
D.A.
ANNA WINTOUR
Vice President & Publisher
PAMELA DRUCKER MANN

Associate Publisher, Integrated Marketing ERIC JOHNSON, Associate Publisher JENNIFER MCCORMICK PANAWEK,
Head of Digital Strategy CRAIG KOSTELIC
Advertising Directors TAMI EAGLE BOWLING, JULIA HAWKINS, JORDANA PRANSKY
Director of Finance & Business Operations SYLVIA W. CHAN
ADVERTISING NEW YORK
Executive Director, Finance & New England MELISSA GOOLNICK
Account Director STEFANIE BERGER
Account Director, Beauty & Luxury JEANNIE LIVESAY
Account Director CARA GOLDBERG
Account Director ELLEN BENNETT
Business Manager DAMON GONZALEZ
Executive Assistant to the Publisher DANI ROSEN
Business Coordinator STEPHANIE SONG
Sales Assistants JEHOSHUA BROWN, GISELLE CONTRERAS, BRIDGET LAPOINT,
MEGAN LOCKBAUM, ERICA STEINBERG, SUSIE STOKLOSA, ANDREA VOTH
Heading
to Tokyo for NYE
and would love Santa
to get me a reservation
at Sukiyabashi Jiro. Or
a bottle of Chichibu
Ichiros Malt. Or both.
What? Ive been
really good!
J.L.
INTEGRATED MARKETING & CREATIVE SERVICES

Executive Director, Integrated Marketing & Creative Development CAROLYN MONTROSE
Executive Director, Integrated Marketing COURTNEY WARCO VERDIER
Executive Director, Digital Sales and Marketing SCOTT LAINE
Senior Integrated Marketing Director RACHEL DURST
Integrated Marketing Director CASEY MCCARTHY
Associate Marketing Director HILLARY SMITH
Associate Director, Integrated Marketing HAYLEY RUSSMAN
As a
Integrated Marketing Manager STEVEN MARINOS
newlywed, my
Marketing Coordinator KELLY QUACKENBUSH
Design Director CARLOS QUINTERO
Art Director AMI POURANA
Special Projects Director COLU HENRY
Special Events Director NIKKI REISS
Senior Special Events Manager JAMIE RUDOLPH
Senior Special Events Coordinator JENNIFER CASSEL
favorite wedding
gift this year was a
bourbon-of-themonth subscription.
Its about to expire.
Send help!
R.D.
Marketing Coordinator HANNAH MICLEY

THE BON APPTIT CULINARY STUDIO
Executive Chef MARY NOLAN
BRANCH OFFICES
Canada BOB DODD, DODD MEDIA
Detroit ANNE GREEN, DIRECTOR
Hawaii LOREN MALENCHEK, MALENCHEK & ASSOCIATES
Los Angeles CRISTINA THOMPSON, DIRECTOR
Midwest JENNA ERNSTER, DIRECTOR
Midwest PAMELA QUANDT, DIRECTOR
Northwest KATHRYN SOTER, DIRECTOR
Southeast PETER ZUCKERMAN, Z-MEDIA, INC.
Southwest LEWIS STAFFORD COMPANY
PUBLISHED BY COND NAST
Chairman
Chief Executive Officer
President
Chief Financial Officer
PresidentCond Nast Media Group & Chief Marketing Officer
Chief Administrative Officer
Chief Technology Officer
Senior Vice PresidentOperations & Strategic Sourcing DAVID ORLIN

Senior Vice PresidentCorporate Controller DAVID B. CHEMIDLIN
Senior Vice PresidentFinance JENNIFER GRAHAM
Senior Vice PresidentEditorial Operations RICK LEVINE
Senior Vice PresidentDigital Technology NICK ROCKWELL
Senior Vice PresidentEditorial Assets & Rights EDWARD KLARIS
Vice PresidentManufacturing GENA KELLY
Vice PresidentPlanning & Strategy SHEN-HSIN HUNG
Vice PresidentHuman Resources NICOLE ZUSSMAN
Vice PresidentDigital Operations & Monetization CHRISTOPHER GUENTHER
S. I. NEWHOUSE, JR.
CHARLES H. TOWNSEND
ROBERT A. SAUERBERG, JR.
DAVID E. GEITHNER
EDWARD J. MENICHESCHI
JILL BRIGHT
JOE SIMON
Managing DirectorReal Estate ROBERT BENNIS
Senior Vice PresidentMarket Research SCOTT MCDONALD
Senior Vice PresidentBusiness Development JULIE MICHALOWSKI
Senior Vice PresidentHuman Resources JOANN MURRAY
Senior Vice PresidentCorporate Communications PATRICIA RCKENWAGNER
Vice PresidentCN Licensing JOHN KULHAWIK
Vice PresidentStrategic Sourcing TONY TURNER
Vice PresidentDigital Product Development CHRIS JONES
Vice PresidentSpecial Projects PATTY NEWBURGER
Vice PresidentCorporate Communications JOSEPH LIBONATI
COND NAST MEDIA GROUP

Vice PresidentCorporate Partnerships JOSH STINCHCOMB
Vice PresidentInsights & Brand Strategy DANIELLA WELLS
Vice PresidentMarketing Solutions PADRAIG CONNOLLY
Vice PresidentFinance JUDY SAFIR
COND NAST CONSUMER MARKETING
Executive Vice President
MONICA RAY
Vice PresidentConsumer Marketing
GARY FOODIM
Vice PresidentPlanning & Operations
MATTHEW HOFFMEYER
Vice PresidentConsumer Marketing Promotion
GINA SIMMONS
Vice PresidentMarketing Analytics
CHRISTOPHER REYNOLDS
COND NAST ENTERTAINMENT
President
DAWN OSTROFF
Executive Vice PresidentChief Operating Officer SAHAR ELHABASHI
Executive Vice PresidentMotion Pictures JEREMY STECKLER
Executive Vice PresidentProgramming & Content StrategyDigital Channels MICHAEL KLEIN
Executive Vice PresidentChief Digital Officer FRED SANTARPIA
Executive Vice PresidentAlternative TV JOE LABRACIO
Chief Revenue Officer LISA VALENTINO
Senior Vice PresidentBusiness Development & Strategy WHITNEY HOWARD
Senior Vice PresidentDigital Video Operations LARRY BAACH
Vice PresidentTechnology MARVIN LI
Vice PresidentRevenue Operations JASON BAIRD
Vice PresidentMarketing MEI LEE
Vice PresidentProduction JED WEINTROB
Vice PresidentScripted TV GINA MARCHESCHI
Vice PresidentBranded Content & Sales Marketing ANISSA E. FREY
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editors letter
THE CROWD-PLEASER
ADAM RAPOPORT
EDITOR IN CHIEF
FOLLOW ADAM ON TWITTER AND INSTAGRAM AT @RAPO4
Recipes for
tomato sauce
and pork are at
bonappetit.com
/edletter
Potato Gnocchi
Get the texture right: Use a light
hand with any extra flour, and
test by cooking one piece first.
Prick 3 lb. scrubbed medium
russet potatoes (6 or 7) all over
with a fork, then bake in a 350
oven directly on the rack until
very tender, about 1 hour. Let
cool slightly. Scrape flesh into
a bowl, then pass through a
food mill or ricer onto a paper
towellined baking sheet (to
absorb excess liquid). Let cool.
Knead potatoes in a bowl

with cup all-purpose flour
and 1 Tbsp. kosher salt to create
a sticky dough. Lightly flour your
hands and work surface. Divide
dough into 6 portions. Roll each
into a long, compact rope about
" thick. Cut into 1" pieces.
Working in 4 batches, cook
gnocchi in a large pot of boiling
salted water until they float,
about 3 minutes. Using a slotted
spoon, transfer to a pan of
tomato sauce as you go. Serve
with grated Parmesan and
roast pork shoulder. 8 servings
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PHOTOGRAPH
B Y C H R I S TO P H E R T E S TA N I
FOOD STYLING BY SUSAN SPUNGEN. PROP STYLING BY AMY WILSON.
A couple Decembers ago, my wife, Simone, and

I decided to flip the holiday script. Instead of hopping
the hour flight to Buffalo, wed get Buffalo to come
to usher parents, John and Linda, her older sister,
Shella, and her husband, Marc, and his teenage kids.
Wed do the cooking, the decorating, the coordinating, the crisis managingthese are the holidays
after all, and sometimes, as youll learn on page 96,
simply surviving is a reasonable goal.
First we addressed the issue of where everyone
would stay in Manhattan. Then we had to figure
out what everyone woulddo. Museums! Third-tier
college-bowl games! A walk on the High Line!
Most significantly, we debated what to cook.
If youve ever hosted the holidays, you know that
talking about what youre going to eat is as much of an
event as the meals themselves. For instance, would we
do shrimp cocktail on Christmas night? If so, where
would we get the shrimp? Who would do all the cooking? And how might others help out? (By staying out
of the kitchen! as any avid home cook will insist.)
I wanted to make something special but not precious, delicious but not elaborate. I wanted a crowdpleaser. What about gnocchi? Simone asked. Bingo.
Those whove made the potato-and-flour dumplings
know theyre not difficultyoure basically making
Play-Doh. And yet they always impress. Wait, you
made these? someone will inevitably ask.
So on Christmas Day, Simone rolled out the dough,
and I got to work on a braised pork shoulder. As the
sun dipped, John mixed cocktails for himself and me,
Simone popped Champagne, and Linda pulled the
shrimp cocktail from the fridge. Eventually, as we
helped ourselves to tender pork and velvety gnocchi
in a bright tomato sauce, all felt right in our world.
It didnt matter where we were. We were around the
table with family. Thats always where home is.
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r. s v p
. WorldMags.net
.
.
Want us to get a restaurant recipe for you?

E-mail us at rsvp@bonappetit.com, or use the
hashtag #bonapprsvp on Twitter or Instagram.
Submissions become the property of Bon Apptit.
READERS SOUND OFF
Ask
the
Chef
Q: Ive been seeing
squid ink used in
pasta on a lot of
menus. How can I
cook with it at home?
MIMI DW YER,
A: Squid ink is the

ingredient that will
really murder out
your food, as we say
at the restaurant.
Cooking with ink is
like driving one
of those cool sports
cars in matte black;
it makes a dish super
metal, with dramatic
color and a deep
brininess. We source
ink in bulk, but you
can buy it in jars at
specialty stores
[or at food52.com].
Combine it with eggs
for any hand-cranked
pasta dough, or use
it to finish a risotto.
We even spoon some
into charred-eggplant
pure. Count on a
teaspoon or so to get
that striking black. It
stays soft and can
be used straight from
the freezer, so you
dont have to use it
all right away. Just
be sure to put down
parchment paper
while you workthat
ink is pretty gnarly.
DEAR BON APPTIT, LAST YEAR WE HAD A GIRLS WEEKEND

AT THE ARIZONA BILTMORE. THE RESTAURANT,
FRANK & ALBERTS, HAD THE BEST CELERY CAESAR.
IVE TRIED TO RE-CREATE IT A FEW TIMES AT HOME,
BUT IM CLEARLY MISSING SOME IMPORTANT INGREDIENT!
LAURAN D E RIGNE, St. Louis
CELERY CAESAR SALAD

4 SERVINGS Look for celery root that is
firmnot spongyat the bottom end.
2 thick slices country-style bread,
torn into bite-size pieces
2 Tbsp. olive oil
Kosher salt
1 large egg yolk
1 anchovy fillet, chopped
1 small garlic clove, chopped
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 tsp. white wine vinegar
tsp. Dijon mustard
cup vegetable oil
Freshly ground black pepper
1 oz. Parmesan, grated (about
cup), plus shaved for serving
2 romaine hearts, leaves separated
8 celery heart stalks, thinly sliced,
plus all leaves
large celery root (celeriac), peeled,
cut into matchsticks
Letter Rip:
Rage Against the MSG
In our September issue, chef Quealy Watson
of Hot Joy praised the flavor and roundness
of MSG. Based on your letters and comments,
the feeling was not mutual. Keep telling us
how you really feel at askba@bonappetit.com.
1 6 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M D EC E M B E R 2 0 14
Preheat oven to 400. Toss bread

with olive oil on a rimmed baking sheet,
squeezing to help it absorb the oil;
season with salt. Toast, tossing halfway
through, until golden and crisp,
510 minutes. Let croutons cool.
Blend egg yolk, anchovy, garlic,
lemon juice, vinegar, and mustard in
a blender until smooth. With motor
running, gradually drizzle in vegetable
oil, blending until thickened. Dressing
should be pourable (add a splash or
two of water to thin, if needed).
Transfer dressing to a bowl large
enough to hold salad and season with
salt and pepper. Mix in grated Parmesan.
Add romaine, celery stalks and leaves,
and celery root; toss to coat.
Serve salad topped with croutons
and shaved Parmesan.
DO AHEAD: Dressing can be made
2 days ahead. Cover and chill. Bring
to room temperature before using.
I doubt seriously that any

one of you would knowingly
feed it to your own children.
PHILIP KRAJECK,
Rolf and Daughters,

Nashville
Absolutely no. Gives me a

migraine faster than you can
say monosodium glutamate!
Arsenic is naturally occurring, but I wont add it

to my food, no matter how delicious it may be.
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Thanks,
but no
thanks.
Less is
more.
ILLUSTRATIONS: LARRY JOST (SALAD); CLAIRE MCCRACKEN (PORTRAIT, MSG). FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
Potomac, MD
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DEC
ER
EMB
20 1 4
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WHERE GREAT TASTE BEGINS
Those
initials at
the base of
this brass
bottle
opener?
They could
be yours.
See
page 24 for
details.
THE BA
Gift
Guide
2014
Follow these 12 gift-giving

commandments and we
promise youll win over every
kitchen nerd, liquor snob,
and sugar-crazed nephew
on your holiday shopping list
PHOTOGRAPHS BY DANNY KIM
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THE
BA Gift Guide
2 of
7
Avenue Road
handblown-glass
container
Reversible meat
tenderizer
$410; call 212-4539880 to order

2
$45; areaware.com
3
Hario Buono
copper
pouring kettle
Mauviel copper
mixing bowl
The Shinier
the Gift,
the Happier
the People.
$100;
surlatable.com
$14;
anthropologie.com
Frieling
citrus press
$150; bedbath
andbeyond.com
Gilded Cornet
cake server
Liquid
Body flask
$30; williamssonoma.com
$150;
prima-coffee.com
8
Dutch salt shaker

$23; kioskkiosk.com
9
Brass bread knife

$135; alderand
coshop.com
10
When tastefully
chosen, a little flash
goes a long way.
Metal trivet set

$20; cb2.com
Finally: a
commercialgrade
juice press
attractive
enough
to keep
out on the
counter.
J OA N N A S C I A R R I N O,
assistant editor
1
4
10
Behold:
the most
beautiful
bread knife
youve ever
seen
handmade
in Japan,
of course.
9
6
GIFT SETS
DONT
HAVE TO BE
LAME.
Often the words gift basket conjure images of raffia,

cellophane, and pepper jelly. (Why is there always
pepper jelly?) Dont let those abominations give the gift
set a bad name. A box of things I actually want? Yes,
please. J U L I A K R A M E R , associate restaurant editor
WorldMags.net
This is a
two-in-one
tenderizer:
Remove
the base, flip
the spiky
head, and
youve got
yourself a
flat pounder.
Coffee Collectives
Taster package
Four bags of exceptional directtrade beans from the cult Danish
roaster. $52; coffeecollective.com
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THE
Coolhauss Sammie of
the Month Club
BA Gift Guide
Each delivery includes

four ice cream sandwiches
in one crazy combo.
From $55; eatcoolhaus.com
3 of
7
MAKE
IT
PERSONAL.
The key to
getting custom
gifts right is
subtlety: initials
only, barely there
engravings,
and absolutely
no photos.
AS H L E A H A L P E R N ,
special
projects editor
3
Its Okay
to Be
a Little
Selfish.
Penta-Hex brass
bottle opener
The coolest
thing aboutBec
Brittains
hexagonal cap
popper? The
initials etched into
the corner. $53;
sightunseen.com
I love cooking
with my in-laws
during the
holidays, but I
miss my own
knives. Solution:
Send them a
great blade
ahead of time,
then do your
dicing together.
Monogrammed
napkins
These beauties
from Kate
Spade are handembroidered by
Rwandan artisans.
$15 each;
saturday.com
CARLA LALLI
MUSIC,
food editor
Oliva Elit 8"

Stealth chef s knife
$150; messer
meister.com
GIVE A
GIFT THAT
KEEPS
ON GIVING.
Whats better than getting a presentin

December? Getting another one in
January. Food subscriptions are monthly
reminders that someone loves me.
CLAIRE SAFFITZ, assistant food editor
EXPERIENCES
ARE
BETTER THAN
THINGS.
Last Christmas, I gave my wife an empty bottle of Japanese whisky. Worst

gift ever? Maybe, except that stuck inside was a handwritten note
promising a trip to Tokyo. Experiences theyll remember forevercooking
lessons, reservations at an impossible-to-crack restaurantalways beat
material presents. A N D R E W K N O W LT O N , The BA Foodist
WorldMags.net
Long-grain
cutting board
A quality board
will last a lifetime;
brand it and
theyll always know
its theirs. $80;
brooklynbutcher
blocks.com
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THE
BA Gift Guide
4of
7
Mugolio
pine syrup
Sfoglini pasta
$30 for 3.6 oz.;

deandeluca.com
2
Wine Forest
Wild Foods
fennel pollen
$25 for .7 oz.;

abchome.com
Sprinkle on
mushroom
pasta or a
fennel and
celery salad,
or use it to
make the
most delicate
popcorn
youve never
dreamed of.
Make Over
Their
Pantry All
Fancy-Like.
Mustaphas
preserved lemons
$10 for 12.4 oz.;
murrayscheese.com
$7$8 for 16 oz.;

sfoglini.com
7
Delfino colatura
di alici
$15 for 100 ml;
almagourmet.com
8
Emilia vinegar
$45 for 100 ml;
georgepaul
vinegar.com
9
Premium
Kyela rice
Regalis dried
black morels
$17 for 2.2 lb.;

askinosie.com
$25 for 1 oz.;

regalisfoods.com
It might be hard
to justify shelling
out on an
expensive finishing
oil for yourself,
but splurging for
a friend? Thats
what the holidays
are all about.
10
Castillo de Canena
smoked olive oil
Les Moulins
Mahjoub wild
mountain capers
in sea salt
$32 for 250 ml;

tienda.com
$10 for 3.5 oz.;

surlatable.com
Made in
Brooklyn,
these
noodles
bring
restauranttrendy
ingredients
like rye and
cuttlefish
to the
home pot.
A L I S O N R O M A N ,
senior associate
food editor
4
Drizzle
delicate pine
syrup over
ricotta, crudo,
even vanilla
ice cream.
10
7
For a liquid umami boost, add a dash of this
Italian fish sauce to cooked grains.
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GUTTER
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THE
BA Gift Guide
5of
7
SOME
GIFTS GET
BETTER
WITH AGE.
The newest,
hottest, and latest
is all good, but
its one-of-a-kind
vintage finds that
really get me
going. Whether
its a first-edition
M.F.K. Fisher
or a pamphlet
on microwave
cooking for men,
secondhand
cookbook shops
are absolute
treasure troves.
La Praline
Historique
Birch wood
toothpicks
$8 for 3 oz.;
bellocchio.com
$5 for 12; kaufmannmercantile.com
9
Good
Things Come
in Small
Packages.
Actual
size
Stockings dont have to be stuffed with

$10-and-under afterthoughts. Opt instead for
small, thoughtfully chosen (and occasionally
pricier) items to up the surprise factor.
DAW N P E R R Y, senior food editor
B E L L E C U S H I N G,
editorial assistant
Raw honeycomb
$15 for 5.5 oz.;
savannahbee.com
Wide angle/macro
iPhone lens
Kaol mints
$14 for 14.5 g;
kioskkiosk.com
$50; photojojo.com
Bonnie Slotnick
Cookbooks, NYC
bonnieslotnick
cookbooks.com
Rabelais,
Biddeford, ME
Pallars Solsona Navaja

Blanca folding knife
Saipua soap
$165; quitokeeto.com
$10 for 4 oz.;

shop.saipua.com
Combo pizza wheel

and bottle opener
Starter garden
seeds
$18; normanncopenhagen.com
$15 for 6; williamssonoma.com
Various Projects
keytags
$15; variouskeytags.com
rabelaisbooks.com
Kitchen Arts &

Letters, NYC
kitchenartsand
letters.com
Heirloom
Bookshop,
Charleston, SC
GUTTER
10
GIFTS
SHOULD
BE
USEFUL.
Put down the corkscrew shaped like a reproductive organ, and walk away from
the bacon-scented cologne. A gag gift is good for one laugh but not so funny
when youre trying to find space in a tiny apartment for a superfluous object
you feel too guilty to throw away. Spare your friends the indignity and focus on
giving gifts that actually have a function. J U L I A D U Q U E T T E , photo editor
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$28; momastore.org
Twizzlie pops
$9 for a bag of 8;
quincandy.com
Baton lighter
theheirloom
collection.com
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2
THE
BA Gift Guide
6of
7
5
Take risks
when
choosing
flavors.
Vanilla
rooibos and
dark ginger
are two
of our
favorites.
Marou
$9 each;
darkchocolate
imports.com
11
The
Best Gifts
Wrap
Themselves.
Everyone loves
chocolateand the
newest wave of smallbatch bars look as
good as they taste.
ELIZABETH JAIME,
photo assistant
Dandelion
Mazet
Mast Brothers
$8 each; dandelion
chocolate.com
$8 each;
demedici.com
$8 each;
mastbrothers.com
Rogue Chocolatier
Raaka
Comparts
$16$18 each; rogue

chocolatier.com
$4$8 each;
raakachocolate.com
$10 each;
compartes.com
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THE
Facundo
Exquisito Rum
BA Gift Guide
7 of
7
Zalto Universal glasses

$59 each; winemonger.com
$140 for 750 ml;

facundorum
.com for stores
Usagi heavyweight
copper cobbler
shaker
The
only wineglasses
theyll ever
need.
$70; cocktail
kingdom.com
Tina Frey
resin ice bucket
$100; dwell.com
Bourbon cocktail
cherries
$16 for 16 oz.; jackrudy
cocktailco.com
Portland
32 oz.
Growlette
with Leash
and 64 oz.
Beer
Growler
Why these
liquors?
Bacardis
new rum
is blended
from
premium
family
reserves;
the mezcal
is singleorigin;
and the
single-malt
Taiwanese
whisky
is complex
beyond
its years.
$60 and $65;

portland
growler
company.com
Gents
cocktail picks
$195 for 8;
ralphlauren
home.com
This specialedition cart

was designed
with bartender Jim
Meehan and
handcrafted in
Virginia
out of black
walnut, birch,
and brass.
Mezcal Marca
Negra
Kavalan
King Car
Whisky
$96 for
750 ml; wine
anthology
.com
12
When in
Doubt, Ply
Them with
Alcohol.
Booze can be the most thoughtless gift of all timeor the

ultimate sign that someone loves you. It all comes down
to the bottle. Give something limited edition, hard to find,
and a little bit spendy. Tell them the effort it took to find it,
and they may even offer you a sip. A N D R E W K N O W LT O N
Jim Meehan
x Moore &
Giles
bar cart
$13,500;
800-737-0169
for info
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PROP STYLING BY MARTIN BOURNE. ILLUSTRATIONS BY THOM LESSNER.
$69 for 750 ml;

hpsepicurean
.com for stores
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The BA Q&A
So whats New Years Eve like for you?
Well, a few years ago I got the chance to
perform in Atlantic City. But in the end, it
was too depressing for my wifemaking
her sit backstage with some Bud Lights and
a turkey sandwich. After that, we decided
to travel. We were in Mexico last year.
Whats your drink? I love beer, Scotch,
QUESTIONS
FOR
Seth Meyers
The NBC Late
Night host and former
SNL star on office
holiday partiesand
eating like a human
and a little tequila, but right now Im in the

wine chapter of my drinking life. Im no
connoisseur, but I do like spicy, full-bodied
reds and a good, dry Riesling.
When was your last hangover? Not long

agoit was one of those nights where you
end up drinking more wine than you realize.
Thats its own unique brand of hangover.
You just feel overladen with liquid, like your
pockets are filled with gallon bags of water.
Do you enjoy office holiday parties?

See, the thing about SNL is you kinda have
an office party every Saturday night. So
youve already seen everyone at their most
sober and their most inebriated within the
first four shows.
How did your eating habits change when

you went from SNLs writing room to
hosting a late-night show? SNL was a lot
of deliveryyou start thinking a Red Bull
and a doughnut is where the comedy is.
The nice thing about being on a regular
schedule is having better habits. My wifehas
a human job as well, so we start the day
with smoothies, then Ill have a salad midday, and well eat dinner together at night.
Whats the last thing you ate? A granola

bar. Let me look at the garbage hereyep,
it was a Kind bar.
And the strangest item in your fridge?

Eight kinds of mustard. We think its
the greatest condiment. Were weirdos.
Death-row last meal? My moms homemade Chex mix. No one makes it

like her, although I recently learned the
key to her success is just butter.
He eats,
he drinks,
he grams,
he tweets.
Follow
Seth at
@seth
meyers.
Yeah, and Ive waited tables as well.

Im an over-tipper because I know how
stressful those jobs can be. I never
had stress dreams about SNLarguably
the most stressful job in the world
but I still have stressdreams about table
nine needing their chimichanga.
INTERVIEW BY ANDREW PARKS
For video of Seth taking our lightning-round

food quiz, go to bonappetit.com/celebs
THE VITALS
Age 40
Homebase
New York City
Favorite cheese
Gouda
Movie snack
Peanut M&Ms
Airplane drink
If Im feeling
Draper, a Dewars
and soda.
Number of times
hes cooked/
crafted with
Martha Stewart
on TV 10
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P H O T O G R A P H B Y DAY M O N
GARDNER
GROOMING BY MICHELLE KEARNS. HAIR BY BETTIE ROGERS. WARDROBE STYLING BY ERIC JUSTIAN. TUXEDO BY CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION.
TUXEDO SHIRT AND BOW TIE BY RALPH LAUREN PURPLE LABEL. CUFF LINKS COURTESY ILENE CHAZANOF, DECORATIVE ARTS, NY.
Last question. One of your first jobs

was as a pizza delivery boy. Did that
teach you to be a good tipper?
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Hey, lets be Insta

friends. Follow us at
@bonappetitmag.
The reason
so many
Americans
eat
Chinese.
T
H
E
Instagram
Crushes
du Jour
Dear
Peppermint Bark,
I know what its likefoodie
people laughing at you. Rolling
their eyes when you show up.
Why do they do this? They do
it because they hate themselves.
But you know what? I love you.
I love you in your red-and-white
Williams-Sonoma uniform
($29; williams-sonoma.com).
I love you in your special artisanal
Apothecarys Kitchen outfit
($12; theapothecaryskitchen.com).
But really, I dont even care how
you look; all that matters is how
you tastelike a heaven made
of chocolate and candy canes.
C
H
E
C
K
L
I
S
T
@chef
antoniopark
Sushi gone wild
@punch_drink
Where its
always 5 oclock
Signed,
Your Fan Julia
Everything
you need to eat,
drink, buy,
and mail this
month
Buy this Food 52 x

MZ Wallace market tote
and $50 goes to supporting
the Edible Schoolyard
Project. $365; food52.com
Yup, like the
House. And
the thousand
cookbooks.
@pawkhrua
Andy Rickers
cats (and
Thai food)
@zoenathan
loeb
Perfectly rustic
desserts
by
JULIA KRAMER
We Heart the USPS
LISTENING HOUR
Does anyone have an envelope?! The new Celebrity Chef

Forever stamps, featuring coq au vin queen Julia Child and
tapas king Felipe Rojas-Lombardi (among other greats), have
single-handedly revived our interest in snail mail. $2.45 for a strip
of five, $4.90 for a block of ten, $9.80 for a sheet of 20; usps.com
King of the Egg Cream, an

audio series loosely based
on the true story of Harry
Solomon Dolowich, who ran
a chocolate-syrup ring
in 1920s NYC, delves into
the history surrounding
this eggless, creamless
beverage. Learn more at
bonappetit.com/eggcream,
or download the radio
play, featuring the voice of
Lewis Black, at tabletmag
.com/eggcream.
Braise in Me!
As if we could
love these Dansk
enameled-steel
pots any more,
theyre newly
available in a
fun retro green.
From $80;
momastore.org
Cutting-Edge Kitchen Accessory
Crave
($35), now
available
Pot
Three inventive ways to
take your afternoon, evening,
and airplane tea
If Rem Koolhaas designed

a teapot, it might look
something like Joey Roths
updated and rereleased
Sorapot. $285; joeyroth.com
@dennis
theprescott
Adventures in
sandwiches
REMEMBER 2004?
You will when you flip through Ludo
Lefebvres first cookbook, which the Trois
Mec chef recently reissuedwith many
new photoson its tenth anniversary.
For the ultimate knife geek: a strop, custom-made

from Spanish leather by Brooklyn craftsman Michael
Zieba. From $85; info@masterchefknives.com
Tempest in a Tea...
@atelier
september
That
Copenhagen
caf life
Pint
Tea-rrific ice cream, in flavors
like Chamomile and Masala
Chai, combines two post-dinner
rituals into one creamy scoop.
$7; tearrificicecream.com
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Tin
Say no to airline-issued tea bags
and yes to the elegant singleestate teas in Silver Needle
Tea Co.s portable Jetsetter tin.
$15; silverneedleteaco.com
PHOTOGRAPHS: DANNY KIM (POTS, TEAPOT, STAMPS, STROP, PEPPERMINT); LIONEL DELUY/CSDIV (CRAVE); ANTONIO PARK (SUSHI); PUNCH
(DRINK); ANDY RICKER (CAT); ZOE NATHAN (DESSERTS); ATELIER SEPTEMBER (CAF); DENNIS PRESCOTT (SANDWICH)
Without her,
thered be no
Sean, Hugh,
or Donald.
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delight by design
garnethill.com
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The Providers
New Years Eve,

Family-Style
Those all-night ragers of yore?

Long gone. These days, we party
at home with our kids
by JENNY ROSENSTRACH and ANDY WARD
New Years Eve for us has become our

one night toas our ten-year-old daughter
used to sayget fancy at the dinner table.
Because were feeding only our immediate
family, versus a gaggle of relatives, we can
afford to go all Eloise with the thing: passed
hors doeuvres, bubbly drinks, fine china,
place cards. The kids love it because it feels
special, and we love it because were
not succumbing to an overpriced prix fixe.
Heres how we do it.
Drinks
Festive Touches
If its fussy, it
works: New Years
Eve is all about oldfashioned finger
foods. Gougres,
fried cheese
sticks, warm crab
dip, and anything
with puff pastry
make the cut.
Cheers! We
pour Martinellis
Sparkling Cider
for the girls,
Billecart-Salmon
Brut Ros
Champagne for us.
This is the only

time of year we
use our wedding
china. Dont believe
us? The price
tags are still on
the bottomand
we got married
when Clinton was
president.
Good kettlecooked potato

chips for the kids.
Potato chips
plus crme frache
and caviar (the
paddlefish stuff
works just fine)
for the adults.
Chips: Theyre the
easier, saltier blinis.
At the Inn at
Little Washington
in Virginia, chef
Patrick OConnell
grates a whole
truffle over a batch
of warm popcorn,
which is both
appalling and offthe-hook delicious.
We go with the
poor mans version:
Rancho Gordo
boutique popcorn, salted and
drizzled with
a little truffle oil.
The Main Event

Lobster:
steamed, shelled,
and then dunked
in melted smokedpaprika butter for
the grown-ups, and
straight up drawn
butter for the kids.
Mashed potatoes
spiked with fresh
horseradish are
beloved by allno
kid-customization
required.
Dessert
Dark chocolate
bread pudding
is decadent and
delicious, and,
most important,
offers a place to
stake sparklers
the whole
point of any New
Years party
as far as children
are concerned.
Our daughters
write fortunes
for each of us and
tuck them under
the place cards. Its
always something
sweet, like Maybe
this year Dad will
grow his hair back.
Tiaras, crackers,
squawkers, confetti
(because you sure
cant count on Ryan
Seacrest to keep
you entertained).
For more Jenny and

Andy, check out
their blog, Dinner:
A Love Story.
To get our Dark
Chocolate Bread
Pudding recipe,
go to bonappetit
.com/providers
Y REBECCA JURKEVICH
PHOTOGRAPH: OWEN FRANKEN/CORBIS
For
the record,
BA endorses
children
chugging
sparkling
cider on New
Years, not
Champagne.
Appetizers
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BA
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FOOD STYLING BY ALISON ATTENBOROUGH. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI.
> R EC I P E S, T I P S, A N D M E N U I D E AS F RO M O U R E X P E RTS
For a pasta
starring your
very own Parm
broth, see
Prep School,
page 131.
PA R M B R O T H
fast,
easy,
fresh
You might say I hoard Parmesan rinds. I save them all year long, freezing them in a resealable bag.
As soon as that first cold front sweeps in, I transform those long-collected ends into a rich and versatile
Parmesan Broth. I start by sauting a halved head of garlic and a quartered onion in some olive oil, along
with a handful of thyme, a few sprigs of parsley, a bay leaf, and a shake of black peppercorns. Once
the garlic is browned, I add a cup of dry white wine and simmer, scraping the pot to get the brown bits
loosened up, until reduced by half. In goes 1 lb. Parmesan rinds and 8 cups of water. The whole thing
simmers until it tastes robust and has reduced by half, about 2 hours. (I stir every now and thenthe rinds
will stick to the bottom of the pot if you let them.) I strain, and then use the broth in vegetable soups,
instant-supper pastas, and beans in need of a boost. Then I start hoarding all over again. Alfia Muzio
P H OTO G R A P H BY T U U K K A KO S K I
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D EC E M B E R 2 0 14 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 4 3
FA S T, E A S Y,
FRESH
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LU N C H YO U R L E F TOV E R S
Winter Comfort
A warming beef chili gets serious
depth from toasted chiles and a
touch of sweetness from squash
Beef and Squash Chili
ACTIVE 1 HR 10 MIN - TOTAL 1 HR 30 MIN
4 SERVINGS
1
1
3
2
1
1
4
2
1
1
dried ancho chile

dried pasilla chile
cups low-sodium chicken broth
Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. vegetable oil
lb. boneless beef chuck roast,
cut into " pieces
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
large white onion, finely chopped
garlic cloves, finely chopped
tsp. ground cumin
tsp. dried oregano
12-oz. bottle lager
acorn squash, scrubbed, sliced
into thin wedges, then into
1" pieces
L U N C H A L D E S KO
PA C K I T U P
A N D E N J OY T H E
F R U I TS O F YO U R
L A B O RAGA I N !
Good news: This

chili might be even
better reheated,
after the flavors
meld. Better news:
A smaller portion
over brown rice or
quinoa is a power
2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice

2 Tbsp. raw pumpkin seeds (pepitas)
Sour cream, chopped avocado,
and sliced red onion (for serving)
Toast chiles in a dry small skillet over
medium-high heat, turning occasionally
and pressing down to help them make
contact with the pan, until darkened
in color and beginning to soften, about
3 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and cover
with 2 cups boiling water; let sit 30
minutes to soften. Drain; remove seeds
and stems. Pure chiles and broth in
a blender until smooth, about 1 minute.
Once chiles have soaked 10 minutes,
heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a large heavy pot over
medium-high. Season beef with salt and
pepper and cook, stirring occasionally,
until browned all over, about 5 minutes.
At this point, quite a bit of liquid will
have accumulated; continue to cook
until it has evaporated, about 3 minutes.
Transfer beef to a plate.
Add 1 Tbsp. oil to pot, then white onion
and garlic; season with salt and pepper.
lunch that will

keep you satisfied
until dinner. Keep
toppingsavocado,
scallion, Cotija
cheese, pepitas
separate so they
stay fresh.
Cook, stirring often, until softened, 68

minutes; onion juices will help loosen
anything left on bottom of pot. Add cumin
and oregano and cook, stirring, 1 minute.
Return beef to pot and add beer. Bring
to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer, stirring
occasionally, until almost completely
reduced, about 4 minutes. Add chile
pure, season with salt and pepper, and
bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer
until liquid is slightly thickened and
meat is tender, 2025 minutes. Add
squash; cover and cook until tender,
1015 minutes. Stir in lime juice.
Meanwhile, preheat oven to 350.
Toss pumpkin seeds and remaining 1 tsp.
oil on a rimmed baking sheet; season
with salt. Bake, stirring occasionally, until
golden brown, 810 minutes. Let cool.
Serve chili topped with sour cream,
avocado, red onion, and toasted
pumpkin seeds.
DO AHEAD: Chili can be made
3 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill,
or freeze up to 1 month.
Calories 400 - Fat 21 g - Fiber 4 g
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P H OTO G R A P H S B Y E VA KO L E N KO
RECIPES BY DAWN PERRY AND CLAIRE SAFFITZ
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FA S T, E A S Y,
FRESH
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WHY WE
> BLITZ THE BREAD
Using a blender
rat her t han a food
p ro c e s s o r y i e l d s
a s m o o t h d re s s i n g
and whip s in air
for a l ig ht text u re.
KEY TECHNIQUE
Theres Bread in
My Vinaigrette!
And we like it that way.
Sourdough enriches salad dressing
for a creamy, tangy finish
Radicchio Salad with
Sourdough Dressing
ACTIVE 15 MIN - TOTAL 25 MIN
4 SERVINGS
3 oz. sourdough bread, crust
removed, torn into small pieces
(about 1 cup), divided
1 Tbsp. plus cup olive oil
1 small garlic clove
2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
1 tsp. sugar
1 head radicchio, leaves separated,

torn if large
2 scallions, thinly sliced
Preheat oven to 425. Toss half of
bread with 1 Tbsp. oil on a rimmed baking
sheet; season with salt and pepper.
Bake, tossing once, until golden brown,
810 minutes.
Pulse garlic, vinegar, mustard, sugar,
remaining bread, and 2 Tbsp. water in
a blender to combine; let sit 5 minutes
to soften bread. With motor running,
gradually add remaining cup oil;
blend until smooth (bread will blend into
dressing, thickening and flavoring it,
while retaining some texture), about
2 minutes; season with salt and pepper.
Toss radicchio, scallions, croutons,
and dressing in a large bowl; season
with salt and pepper.
Calories 270 - Fat 3 g - Fiber 1 g
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K I TC H E N
D I S PAT C H
The Day-Old
Dilemma
You know that
sinking feeling
when a good loaf
of bread fades
the next day?
I make sure
it doesnt go to
waste with this
sourdough
vinaigrette. But
thats hardly
your only option:
Turn it into
breadcrumbs to
top pasta, soak
it in milk for
meatballs, or use
it to make (sweet
or savory) bread
pudding. And
of course there
are croutons,
which promise
that stale bread
pulls double duty
in this salad.
Claire Saffitz,
assistant
food editor
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FA S T, E A S Y,
FRESH
The ingredient list is short,

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and the cook time is too.

But the flavors? Huge. All it
needs is a bowl of white rice.
We e at
these guys
shells a nd
a ll, bu t yo u
c a n su b
i n p eeled
shr i m p
i nste a d.
D a w n P e r r y, s e n i o r f o o d e d i t o r
15-MINUTE MAIN
Salt-and-Pepper Shrimp
Shrimp That Sizzles

4 SERVINGS
Crunchy shrimp (thanks for the

help, cornstarch!) gets its
zesty, floral heat from Sichuan
peppercorns. Its hard to believe
that a main course this complex
comes together so quickly
1
3
1
1
1
1
lb. shell-on large shrimp

Tbsp. cornstarch
tsp. freshly ground black pepper
tsp. kosher salt, divided
cup vegetable oil
tsp. Sichuan peppercorns,
ground
1 Fresno chile, thinly sliced, seeds
removed if desired
cup fresh cilantro leaves with
tender stems
Using kitchen shears, cut along the backs

of shrimp through shells and just deep
enough to expose veins; remove veins.
Pat shrimp dry. Whisk cornstarch, black
pepper, and tsp. salt in a large bowl;
add shrimp and toss to coat.
Heat oil in a large skillet over mediumhigh heat. Working in 2 batches, fry
shrimp until golden, crisp, and cooked
through, about 1 minute per side.
Transfer to paper towels and let drain,
then toss in a medium bowl with Sichuan
peppercorns and remaining tsp. salt.
Add chile and cilantro to bowl and toss
to combine. Calories 170 - Fat 4 g - Fiber 1 g
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GUTTER
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FA S T, E A S Y,
FRESH
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WHY WE
> S TA R T O N T H E S T O V E
Browning a c hic ken on t he

stovetop before roasting
nets golden-brown skin and
jump-starts the cooking
process so this birds done
i n l e s s t h a n a n h o u r.
FOR COMPLETE
NUTRITIONAL
INFO FOR
THE RECIPES
IN THIS
S T O R Y, G O T O
BONAPPETIT
.C O M / R E C I P E S
S U P E R- S I M P L E
The Whole Shebang

A beautifully browned bird and
seasonal vegetables cook in a
single skillet for an effortless dinner.
Swap in carrots, quartered onions,
or tiny potatoesanything goes
Skillet Roast Chicken with Fennel,
Parsnips, and Scallions
ACTIVE 20 MIN - TOTAL 1 HR
6 SERVINGS
FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI. ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOE WILSON.
3 Tbsp. olive oil, divided

1 34-lb. chicken
1 fennel bulb, sliced lengthwise
" thick
2 large parsnips, peeled, sliced
" thick on the diagonal
1 bunch scallions
3 wide strips lemon zest
Lemon wedges (for serving)
Preheat oven to 425. Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a
large ovenproof skillet over medium-high.
Season chicken inside and out with salt
and pepper and cook, breast side down,
until a beautiful golden brown. Use
tongs to gently rotate chicken, being
careful not to tear skin, and brown
on all sides, 1215 minutes total; transfer
to a plate. Reserve skillet.
Toss fennel, parsnips, scallions,
and lemon zest in skillet with remaining
2 Tbsp. oil; season with salt and pepper.
Place chicken, breast side up, on top
of vegetables. Roast until an instant-read
thermometer inserted into the thickest
part of chicken thigh registers 165,
3540 minutes. (You can also check
doneness by cutting into thigh meat
right at the joint. If the juices run clear,
the bird is ready.) Transfer chicken
to a cutting board and let rest at least
10 minutes before carving.
Serve chicken and vegetables with
pan juices for spooning over and lemon
wedges. Calories 500 - Fat 33 g - Fiber 5 g
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a cooks
guide to
cookbooks
Forget style-over-substance.
Instead, gift the years releases
that are already getting a serious
workout in our own kitchens
GIFT IT WITH
E ric ksons b ac kpocket flavor trick:
Scalia salt-packed
a n c h ov i e s ($27;
c hefshop.c om).
A Boat, a Whale & a Walrus

Renee Erickson ($40)
I dont know who Im inviting to my next dinner party, but I know what Im
cooking. Ericksons book has an Ina Gartenlike blend of effortlessness and
luxuriousness that makes you believe that king salmon with walnut tarator
will practically cook itself. But then, with her forgivingguidelines and clear
descriptionsit basically does. J u l i a K r a m e r, a s s o c i a t e r e s t a u r a n t e d i t o r
Prune
Gabrielle
Hamilton
($45)
Hamilton not
only wants you to
cook like a pro
line cook, she wants
you to think like
one too. Her funny,
personal kitchen
notebook brings her
beloved East Village
restaurant to life.
Ive learned how to
pick up that brunch
carbonara that I
prepped ahead, and
I was scolded not
to leave fingerprints
while plating.
You may wonder,
Do I need to make
a whole quart of,
say, brown butter
vinaigrette at a
time? After reading
this book, yes.
T H E N E W V E G E TA R I A N C O O K I N G
F O R E V E R YO N E
DEBORAH MADISON ($40)
This update on the

comprehensive,
hardworking 1997 classic
packed with new recipes
and revised ingredient
infois the answer to what
to do with the produce
in your CSA box or those
unfamiliar grains youve
been gearing up to try.
Liesel Davis, recipe editor
GIFT IT WITH
C la ssic Micro plane
($13; us.microplane.com),
for citrus, garlic, and more.
Christine Muhlke,
executive editor
GIFT IT WITH
The pro tool kit:
Sharpie, masking
tape, a n d a
stack of plastic
quart containers.
The Meat Hook Meat Book

Tom Mylan ($38)
When I first dove into this, I thought, Does the world
really need another book about meat by some Brooklyn
beardos? Turns out it does. Mylan strikes a perfect
balance between thoroughand thoughtfulinfo on
butchery, deliriously delicious recipes (Duck-Fat Potato
Poutine!), and hilarious accounts of dude debauchery.
Amiel Stanek, assistant to the editor in chief
WorldMags.net
PHOTOGRAPHS
GIFT IT WITH
Victo r inox
5" Rosewood
boning knife
($39; cutlery
and more.c om),
so your butcherto-be can start
b re a k i n g d ow n
primals at home.
B Y M E I KO TA K E C H I A R Q U I L L O S
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COOKBOOKS
OF THE YEAR
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P L U S O U R T O P C O F F E E -TA B L E T O M E S O F 2 0 1 4
R E L C H R I S T I A N F. P U G L I S I
E AT I N G W I T H T H E C H E F S
P E R-A N D E R S J R G E N S E N
N E V E R T R U S T A S K I N N Y I TA L I A N C H E F
M ASS I M O B OT T U R A
Baking Chez Moi

Dorie Greenspan
($40)
GIFT IT WITH
A Japane se sty le jigge r ($9;
cocktailkingdom
.com); t hose
cocktails
wont m e a s u re
t h e m s e l ve s .
Its the holidays, so you

should be baking. Which is
why I plan on giving this
to all the bakers in my life.
Greenspan is the reassuring
guide you need to tackle all
the delicious French desserts
you know (but have never
made) and several you dont.
Since everything in this book
is entertaining-worthy or
giftable, Ill be making gems
like buckwheat and chocolate
sabls all month long.
Lunch at the Shop

Peter Miller ($25)
At his eponymous bookstore
in Seattle, Miller and his
colleagues prepare and sit
down to lunch together daily,
a practice he writes about so
compellingly in this manifestocum-cookbook, itll make you
drop your turkey wrap on the
spot. Many of the recipes are
very simplelike the apple,
almond butter, and Fromager
dAffinois sandwich I now
sometimes pack for workbut
they still feel sophisticated.
Claire Saffitz,
assistant food editor
GIFT IT WITH
A piping bag and
p a s t r y t i p s (Ateco
14- Piec e C ake
D ec orat ing Set ,
$20; surlatable.com),
for those cream
puffs and macarons.
Meryl Rothstein, senior editor
LIQUID INTELLIGENCE
D AV E A R N O L D ( $ 3 5 )
What Harold McGees On Food and Cooking was for chefs,

Dave Arnolds Liquid Intelligence will be for bartenders: a
geeky, science-driven game-changer that explores the whys
and hows of cocktails. Make sure to get an invitation to your
giftees next cocktail party. A n d r e w K n o w l t o n , r e s t a u r a n t a n d d r i n k s e d i t o r
GIFT IT WITH
An indestructible mortar and
pestle (Mason Cash medium mortar
a n d p e s t l e, $ 18; a m a zo n .c o m ) .
Twelve Recipes
Cal Peternell ($27)
Chez Panisse chef Peternell wrote this chatty
cookbook as a primer for his sons and covers
everything from toast to special salads,
egg essentials, and classic braiseseven some
desserts. I let my boys select recipes to try
from the photos, then relay Peternells smart
straight-talk advice while we cook together.
Carla Lalli Music, food editor
WorldMags.net
PROP STYLING BY BOBBI LIN
GIFT IT WITH
Wa t e r proof waxe d c a nva s
l un c h ba g ($48; kaufmannm erc an t i l e.c o m ), fo r a lu n ch
carrier as chic as its contents.
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THE
PA R T Y
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THE MENU
C AV I A R & A C C O M PA N I M E N T S
raise your
(shot) glass
B E E T- F I L L E D E G G S
SHRIMP OLIVIER
PICKLES!
BREAD & BUTTER
C H A R R E D R O S E M A R Y I N F U S E D V O D K A
Champagne? Not your only option.

Ring in the new year with a
Russian-style vodka-and-caviar
menu from Portland restaurant
Kachka. Its an evening youll
remember forever. Or maybe not
by A m i e l S t a n e k
This is a
drinking party not
a dinner party.
But that doesnt
mean there wont
be plenty to eat. On
New Years Eve in
Russia, the table is
covered end-to-end
with an astonishing
display of food
tart pickles, bread,
salads, caviar
some homemade,
most purchased.
Shots of icy vodka
are poured, properly
toasted (Za vas!),
gleefully downed,
and chased with a
fortifying snack. At
Portland, Oregons
Kachka, chef Bonnie
Morales cultivates
precisely this kind of
evening. She wants
you and a group

of your most game
friends to enjoy
her menu of zakuski
(think Russian
tapas) the way her
Belarusian relatives
would. Its about
a lot of little
repetitions, she
says. Its a giddy
and garrulous cycle:
Toast. Drink. Eat.
Repeat. Is there any
more symbolicor
festiveway to mark
the rolling of one
year into the next?
Nyet.
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PHOTOGRAPHS BY JEREMY LIEBMAN
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THE
PA R T Y
> russian new
y e a r s e v e
WorldMags.net
Use affordable
vodka fo r
infusing; pour
t he g o o d st u f f
( t r y Ru ssian
S t a n d a rd )
straight.
HOW TO DRINK LIKE A RUSSIAN

T H E K AC H K A C R E W E X P L A I N S
1 I F YO U WA N T
TO D R I N K LOTS
O F VO D K A , yo u
must eat lots
of food . Fil l ou t
t h e s p re a d w i t h
s l i c e d b re a d
(try challah, rye,
o r l e pyo s h ka
f l a t b re a d ) ,
b u t t e r, a n d a
mix of pickles.
Eat and drink in
tandem during
t he nig ht .
Charred RosemaryInfused Vodka

ACTIVE 5 MIN - TOTAL 28 HR
8 SERVINGS Kachka offers a variety
of flavored vodkas, including this smoky
collaboration with the chefs at Ox
in Portland. For a floral take, replace
the charred rosemary with cup loose
dried chamomile (or 8 tea bags).
Char 1 large rosemary sprig in a dry
skillet over medium-high heat, turning
occasionally, until blackened in spots
and fragrant, about 4 minutes. Place
in a 1-qt. glass jar and pour in one
750 ml bottle vodka (reserve bottle).
Let sit at room temperature 24 hours.
Taste ityou should be able to detect
the flavor; if not, let infuse longer.
Strain into reserved bottle and freeze
at least 4 hours before serving.
Shrimp Olivier
8 SERVINGS Morales insists its
not a Russian party without this retro
seafood salad on the table.
4 large Yukon Gold potatoes (about
1 lb.), peeled, cut into " pieces
Kosher salt
2 medium carrots, peeled, cut into
" pieces
cup fresh peas (from about lb.
pods) or frozen peas, thawed
1 lb. peeled rock shrimp or bay
shrimp
lb. medium shrimp, peeled,
deveined
4 hard-boiled large eggs, finely
chopped
4 Israeli-style pickles or 2 kosher dill
pickles, cut into " pieces
1 small sweet onion (such as Vidalia),
finely chopped
cup coarsely chopped fresh dill,
plus sprigs for serving
cup (or more) Parsley Mayo
(see recipe)
2 FREEZE
YO U R VO D K A .
Bring ou t t he
bottle only to
pour into small
pitchers or shot
g l a s s e s b e fo re
eac h t oast .
3 A L L YO U
NEED ARE
SHOT GLASSES.
Re sp onsib l e
host trick: Get
the smallest
o n e s yo u c a n .
4 H E R ES
TO T H E TOASTS.
Maintain the
rhy t hm: A f ter
a heartfelt toast,
everyone raises
their glasses
and drinks. Then
comes eating,
then the process
re p e a t s . Two
addendums:
N o d rink ing
without toasts,
and no drinking
between toasts!
Cook potatoes in a large pot of boiling

salted water until just tender, 68 minutes.
Remove with a slotted spoon; let cool.
Meanwhile, return water to a boil
and cook carrots until tender, about
3 minutes; let cool in a colander set in
a bowl of ice water. Drain, pat dry, and
transfer to a large bowl. Repeat with
peas, cooking until bright green, about
30 seconds; add to bowl with carrots.
Working in 2 batches, repeat (cook,
cool, dry) with rock and medium shrimp,
boiling until cooked through, about
1 minute for rock shrimp and 2 minutes
for medium. Add rock shrimp to bowl
with vegetables; place medium shrimp
in another bowl.
Add potatoes, eggs, pickles, onion,
and chopped dill to vegetables; toss well.
Mix in Parsley Mayo, adding more to
coat if needed. Top with medium shrimp
and dill sprigs just before serving.
DO AHEAD: Salad (without dill) can be
made 3 hours ahead. Cover and chill.
Parsley Mayo
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS At Kachka, they
make mayo from scratch. But Hellmanns
(a.k.a. Best Foods) will do just fine.
Pulse 1 cups (packed) fresh parsley
leaves, 1 cups mayonnaise, and
2 Tbsp. mustard in a food processor until
smooth; season with salt and pepper.
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THE
PA R T Y
> russian new
y e a r s e v e
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GO WITH
THE ROE
A FEW
POINTERS
ON SERVING
C AV I A R
WITH ST YLE
- Diversify. C aviar refers

only to sturgeon eggs.
Lu ck i ly, t heres a rang e
o f t a s t y, a f fo rd a b l e
f i s h e g g s , o r ro e (s e e
Sourcebook, page 132,
for our domestic picks).
Get 23 oz. per person.
- Mother-of-pearl
spoons are t he g ol d
s t and ard for serving,
but Morales also likes
those plastic samp l e
o n e s u s e d a t i c e c re a m
parlors. Just be sure
to avoid silver or steel.
- To go luxe , set ou t
blinis, challah, chopped
c hives, sieved hard b oil ed eg g yol ks, and
cultured butter or crme
f rac he. For a c asu al
setup, put out butter,
whit e b read , and roe.
Beet-Filled Eggs
ACTIVE 20 MIN - TOTAL 2 HR 20 MIN
8 SERVINGS Save the hard-boiled egg
yolks for your caviar accoutrements.
2 medium red beets, scrubbed
1 garlic clove, finely grated
cup Parsley Mayo (see recipe
on page 62)
cup walnuts, coarsely chopped
cup prunes, chopped
Kosher salt
cup store-bought pickled beets,
finely chopped
8 hard-boiled large eggs
1 small golden beet, peeled,
halved, thinly sliced
Preheat oven to 375. Wrap red beets
in foil and roast directly on the rack until
a knife slides easily through the center,
12 hours; let cool. Rub off skins with
a paper towel; coarsely chop.
Pulse chopped red beets, garlic,
Parsley Mayo, walnuts, prunes, and lemon
juice in a food processor until smooth;
season with salt. Stir in pickled beets.

Place in a disposable pastry bag
or resealable plastic bag.
Halve eggs lengthwise; remove yolks.
Cut a " opening in tip of pastry bag.
Pipe filling into eggs, mounding slightly.
Top each with a golden beet slice.
DO AHEAD: Beet filling can be made
1 day ahead. Chill in pastry bag.
Yeasted Blinis
ACTIVE 1 HR 30 MIN - TOTAL 5 HR
8 SERVINGS (MAKES 80) These are great
at room temperature, so cook them (using
two skillets at a time!) an hour ahead.
1
2
2
2
-oz. envelope active dry yeast

cup plus 2 cups all-purpose flour
tsp. plus 3 Tbsp. sugar
large eggs, separated
cups half-and-half, room
temperature
cup ( stick) unsalted butter,
melted, plus more, chilled, for
skillet
2 tsp. kosher salt
Mix yeast, cup flour, 2 tsp. sugar, and

1 cup water in a large bowl. Cover and
let sit in a warm place until entire surface
is foamy and puffed in places, about
30 minutes. If this doesnt happen, your
yeast is past its prime; start again with
a fresh package.
Add egg yolks, half-and-half, melted
butter, salt, remaining 2 cups flour, and
remaining 3 Tbsp. sugar to mixture and
whisk until smooth. Cover batter and let
sit in a warm place until almost tripled
in volume, 34 hours. (Or, to make ahead,
cover and chill 812 hours. Bring to room
temperature before proceeding.)
Whisk egg whites in a medium bowl
to soft peaks; fold into batter. Melt
about Tbsp. butter in a large nonstick
skillet over medium heat. Scoop in
heaping tablespoonfuls of batter to make
2" blinis. Cook until bubbles form on top
and bottoms are golden brown, about
3 minutes. Flip and cook until other sides
are golden brown, about 3 minutes.
Transfer blinis to wire racks. Repeat with
remaining batter, wiping out skillet and
adding more butter as needed.
WorldMags.net
FOOD STYLING BY ALISON ATTENBOROUGH. PROP STYLING BY AMY WILSON.
Crushed ice
m a ke s fo r a n i c e
presentation, but
its not strictly
n ec essa r y.
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THE
OBSESSIVORE
I t s t h e t h o u g h t t h a t c o u n t s ,
right? Mmm...maybe not.
total fruitcake
No one should ever give a rock-hard cake to people he loves.

Proving hes perhaps as nutty as one himself, Adam Sachs
sets out to save the most vilified dessert of all time
I A M T H E WO RST ,
most well-intentioned gift giver

ever. Distracted by the idea of seeking out that
perfectly tailored personal item, I usually end up
getting nothing. Ive never sent a holiday card in
my lifethough I finally have some cute kids of my
own to show off. What Ive had luck at, and thoroughly enjoyed, is transforming my kitchen into
a production-line facility for the manufacture of a
little holiday sweetnessEnglish chutney or marmalade, sayto be labeled and given away as party
favors or shipped off to faraway friends.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY DANNY KIM
This year, I decided, would be the year of fruitcake.

Yes, fruitcake: that perennially regifted sticky-sweet
brick packed with electric-green candied cherries. The thing is, I really like the idea of fruitcake,
but Id never met one that didnt freak me out. So
the double challenge of rehabilitating this justly
maligned holiday punch line and finding a recipe
that actually tasted good and could be replicated to
deliver to everyone on my gift list was just the kind of
immodest, kitchen-destroying, weekend-consuming
insanity I live for.
WorldMags.net
D EC E M B E R 2 0 14 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 67
THE
OBSESSIVORE
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One thing I knew: I couldnt do it alone.

A mission like this required a mentor. So
I called pastry chef Christina Tosi, owner
of Momofuku Milk Bars in New York and
Toronto and my new fruitcake rabbi.
As the creator of such diabolical deliciousness as cereal milk soft serve and the
compost cookie, Tosi seemed a natural to
ask for advice. Shes cool and funny and
likes to dream up playful takes on traditional sweets. If anyone could make fruitcake lighter, more modern, and actually
crave-able, I figured Tosi could.
In the Midwest, where I was born,
fruitcake is one of the most commonly
traded gifts, she said. Definitely its been
regifted a minimum of three times. Nobody
ever touches it. But no one ever thought,
How do we make a good fruitcake?
Happily, she had an answer to that
rarely asked question: A hybrid panettonestollen meets fruitcake, a Frankencake
mash-up of flawed holiday standbys that
would incorporate the pleasanter aspect
of all. The airy, bready, yeasted lightness
of a panettonebut laden with D.I.Y. candied fruit and slathered with pistachio
paste for good measure and rolled up like
a cinnamon roll. She walked me through
the steps as I scribbled.
Godspeed, fruitcake maker, Tosi
added before hanging up.
he first step was to fix the fruit.

Citrus is easy to candy, and its in
season for winter gifting. I quartered and juiced lemons and
oranges, then blanched them twice to
remove some of their bitterness. I scooped
out the pith and flesh of the fruit and
weighed the remaining peels. Next I added
an equal amount by weight of sugar and
cooked it in a pan until the peels were soft
and syrupy but retained a bit of their bite.
Cherries are naturally sweet and are
better dried than candied. I scattered
several dozen pitted ones on a sheet tray
and let them sit in an oven at the lowest
temperature all day. Id never realized
cherries had skins before, but Tosi had
advised me to peel them. So now I was
attempting to separate the leathery skins
from the rest of the shriveled nuggets.
Peeling cherries is like knitting a hat for
a ladybug. It takes nimble fingers and
patience. Its time-consuming, brainless

work, but it felt good doing something
for the people I lovewhile hoping they
wouldnt regift my offering.
And there was the bonus of getting to
go a little nuts in the kitchen. Magazines
like this one always extol the pleasures of
being suavely prepared, of inviting ones
guests into the spotless kitchen to pitch
in with last-minute dinner prep. I like a
disciplined dinner party as much as the
next show-offy home cook. But I also enjoy
the behind-the-scenes freneticism. I like
setting unrealistic goals, getting in the
weedsthen finding my way out.
I plumped the dried cherries, candied
citrus peel, and a handful of store-bought
candied ginger and raisins in a saucepan
of hot bourbon. (Should you decide to
tackle this recipe yourself, the combination of fruit and booze is up to youdried
cranberries and/or candied pineapple
would work well, as would any kind of
whiskey. The point is to give the final
product a nice eating-drunken-cakes-forthe-holidays feel.)
Once Id mixed a nd proofed a nd
punched down and portioned off several
quantities of Tosis yeasty doughmore
forgiving and easier to use than a typical
cake batter involving baking soda or
powderit was time to roll it out and
spread on the pistachio paste.
Basically, the pistachio exists to counter
the breads tendency toward dryness. Id
planned to roast and crush my own nuts,
but wimped out at the last minute and
bought countless cans of the stuff from the
baking aisle at Whole Foods. Pistachio
paste resembles Martian peanut butter,
and spreading it evenly across the surface
of soft dough heavily laden with bourbonsoaked fruit was not the easiest task. After
a lot of gloppy missteps, I abandoned the
special frosting spatula and just messily
mushed it around with my hands.
No matter. Tosi had taught me well.
However much of a mess I made of the filling or mangled the pinching of the ends
of the loaves as I squeezed them, seam side
down, into their little gift-size pans, they
all puffed up beautifully. Brown on top,
buttery yet light inside, weighted with
boozy fruit and green-nut swirl throughout.
This was fruitcake worth holding on to.
But the point of this exercise was to

share, which meant it was time to start
another batch. The finished products of
my cake factory, brushed with melted butter and cloaked in a flurry of powdered
sugar, were marked for others, small
tokens of friendship, sugary stand-ins for
something more personal. There was
another benefit, toothis one self-serving:
The time spent plotting and prepping was
itself a little gift for the obsessive-inclined
home tinkerer. We dont normally have
room in our schedules to dedicate to these
well-meaning, slightly absurd projects.
Theres value in making time, in giving
over a day or two to the rhythmic shuffle
of baking sheets and the rolling and
punching of dough and dunking fruit into
bourbon (with a glass on the side for the
baker). The ridiculousness of the effort
wasnt lost on me, but there was honor in
saving the fruitcake from ridicule. And
anyway, there were too many empty pans
to fill to linger on the thought for long.
There was powdered sugar in the air,
cakes browning in the oven, and things to
be done long into the night. It was starting
to smell like the holidays.
WorldMags.net
FOOD STYLING BY VICTORIA GRANOF. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI.
To g e t t h e r e c i p e f o r t h i s h e r e c r e a t i o n , t h e O b s e s s i v o r es n e w a n d
i m p r o v e d f r u i t c a k e , g o t o b o n a p p e t i t . c o m /o b s e s s i v o r e
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> C I T Y G U I D E / m a r r a ke c h
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navigator
GET BAS
TA K E O N
MORE OF OUR
FAV E F O O D
C I T I E S AT
BONAPPETIT
.C O M / T R AV E L
the red-hot city
With endless edible treasures, ancient

architecture, and an art and nightlife scene
that rivals Parisits Marrakechs moment
by Alexander Lobrano
It may be
a tourist spot,
but Le Grand
Balcon du
Caf Glaciers
sunset views
of Jemaa
el-Fna are hard
to beat.
Everyone falls for Marrakech, myself included.

My first morning in the city 25 years ago, I got hopelessly
lost in the rose- and mint-scented Medina, the desert citys
Old Town. I soon relaxed, and by doing so, I learned
what Marrakech has taught everyone from Edith Wharton to
Mick Jagger before me: Getting lost can be a beautiful
thing. But now its more alluring than ever, thanks to the cool
modern city that has grown up alongside the traditional

one. Moroccos brightestplus a growing crowd of arty,
fun-loving expatshave given the fabled Red City North
Africas most dynamic food scene. Theres a constellation
of destination hotels at all price points and an edgy design
and fashion movement that lures visitors who come just
to do the galleries and shop. Between meals, of course.
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PPH
HO
OTTO
OG
GRRA
APPH
HSS BBYY N
AA
LM
AN
E JT EKN
TS
K ET N
K
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N AV I G AT O R
> m a r ra ke c h
WorldMags.net
The best part

of the city
may just be its
hotels, from
the sexy and
luxurious to the
authentic and
tranquil. Here,
the stando uts.
The Food
The
Restaurant
Hit List
La Mamounia
Marrakechs
original grandedame hotel
is ideal for
couples and
honeymooners
seeking
inventive food,
a sumptuous
spa, and an intown location.
MOROCCAN
FOOD 101
Al Fassia
Run by a group of
local women, this is
the place to discover
real Moroccan
home cooking,
including dozens
of salads, tagines
(meat, poultry, or fish
braised in a conical
ceramic dish with
various garnishes),
and bsteeyaflaky
sweet-and-savory
pastries filled
with minced squab.
Royal Mansour
Built in 2010
by the king of
Morocco as the
quintessential
showcase of
local design and
craftsmanship,
this nine-acre
compound is the
place to pull
out all the stops.
El Fenn
Fenn is local
sl ang for c ool ,
and staying at
this exquisitely
decorated riad
hotel gives you
an inside track
to everything
fenn in town.
HANG WITH
THE LOCALS
Nomad
With an intriguingly
perfumed location in
the bustling Rahba
Kedima spice market,
this new restaurant
does terrific
Moroccan salads and
sidescarrots with
cumin or roasted
eggplanttomato
and tagines. Profits
from the daily special
go to a local charity.
THE DELICIOUS
DECOR
Dar Moha
Moroccan food-TV
star Moha Fedal has
a superb restaurant
that occupies a plush
19th-century riad.
His tasting menu runs
to refined dishes like
monkfish bsteeya and
foie gras couscous.
GET A ROOM
Fo r a d d re s s e s o f t h e re s t a u ra n t s
and other spots in this story, see
Sourcebook on page 132.
THE MICHELIN
CONTENDER
Gastro MK
If there were a
Moroccan Michelin
Guide, chef Omar
El Ouahssoussi would
easily snag a star
for his five-course
Euro-Moroccan
tasting menu of
dishes like breaded
The Crawl
Food Stalls
in Jemaa el-Fna
At sundown, the plaza of Jemaa el-Fna
becomes one of the worlds most
dazzling markets. Heres the must-try list.
quails eggs with

vegetarian kefta
and pured beets.
is a must. The chicken

tagine with sun-dried
peaches is superb too.
H A R D -T O FIND DISHES
MOROCCAN
FA S T F O O D
La Maison Arabe
Caf Clock
The famous
lamb tagine with
caramelized oranges
and a sauce of the
meats juices, saffron,
turmeric, and ginger
Dont miss the juicy

camel burgers
(seriously!) and date
milk shakes at this
hipster hangout
in the Kasbah area.
Clockwise
f r o m to p
left: Dinner
at Jemaa
e l - Fn a ; c a m e l
burger at Caf
Clock; spa
l o b by a t Roy a l
M a n s o u r;
salad spread
a t A l Fa s s i a .
Fellah Hotel
An art-loving
couple opened
this country
retreat on a
farm 20 minutes
outside of
Marrakech.
Warning: With its
dreamy setting
and huge jadegreen pool,
you may never
want to leave.
SNAILS
MERGUEZ
HARIRA SOUP
Cooked in a
fabulously funky
broth seasoned
with thyme,
caraway seeds,
mint, red pepper,
green tea, and
sometimes star
anise. Get em
at stall Nos. 16.
Dont be timid.
Locals go to stall No. 32,

a.k.a. Chez Hassam,
for deliciously spicy flamegrilled lamb sausages.
When youre jetlagged, nothing

beats this tomato
broth flavored
with coriander,
saffron, and ginger
and studded
with chickpeas
and lentils. Often
served with justbaked flatbread.
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N AV I G AT O R
> m a r ra ke c h
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T H E A R M C H A I R T R AV E L E R
British writer Peter Maynes republished 1953 classic,

A Ye a r i n M a r r a ke s h , v i v i d l y p o r t ray s t h e l i fe o f t h e
M e d i n a . I t s a l m o s t a s g o o d a s b e i n g t h e re.
The Neighborhood
Guliz
Designed when Morocco was a French
protectorate, this orange treelined area west
of the Medina has an Art Deco charm and,
more recently, a kind of downtown-NYC vibe.
Highlights include:
Eat some of Madame

Alamis gorgeous
Arabian pastries on
the spot, or buy them
to nibble over a drink
on the terrace of the
nearby Grand Caf de
la Poste.
A L L - D AY H I P S T E R
E AT I N G
Kechmara
Dining hours in
Marrakech tend to be
strict, so this stylish
nonstop bistro is just
the ticket for all-day
breakfastdont miss
the eggs en cocotte
with Roquefort.
Eggs en cocotte at Kec h ma ra
J a rd i n e l H a r t i
U LT I M AT E C A F
Le G rand Caf
de la Poste
Feqqas at Al Jawda
The terrace of this

charming Art Deco
caf offers the best
people watching in
town. You probably
wont recognize
any of the Moroccan

media stars, but
the blingy buzz is fun,
and the seared steak
tartare with a glass of
ros make for a perfect
lunch after visiting the
lush Jardin Majorelle.
CUTTING-EDGE
STREET ART
David Bloch Gallery

The heart of
Marrakechs upstart
contemporary art
scene is at this gallery.
BEST MODERN
BOUTIQUE
33 Rue Majorelle
The ultimate
Moroccan concept
store, selling home
furnishings and riffs
on the countrys
traditional leather
slippers (pictured
left) by designer
Hassan Hajjaj.
First-rate pizza in Marrakech? Absolutely. Try the

artichoke and arugula version at hip Jack Is Back.
THE SOUVENIRS
Stephen di Renza,
creative director of
the boutique at the
legendary Jardin
Majorelle, reveals his
Marrakech must-haves.
THE
D A Y T R IP
TA G I N E
Akkal does
striking modern
Moroccan
kitchen ceramics
in bold
solid colors.
WHERE
ESSAOUIRA
H O W FA R
110 MILES WEST
OF MARRAKECH
WHY
C O A S TA L O A S I S
JAM
Delicious
homemade
confitures,
including bitter
orange, from
Ain Kassimou.
Quieter and calmer than Marrakech,

Essaouira on the Atlantic coast
is the top spot to eat seafood in
Morocco. The busy fish market is
the place to land lunch: You simply
buy your fish and have it grilled
on the spot, to be eaten at the
adjacent picnic tables. The beach
is also a favorite of globetrotting
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PA ST RY
Modern takes on
classic Moroccan
gazelle horns
from ODyafy
pastry shop.
surfers. Along the two-hour drive

from Marrakech, stop at Domaine
du Val dArgan, Moroccos most
innovative winery, and the
Cooprative Fminine dArgane
El Kheir, which provides work to
local women by producing argan
oil, native to Morocco, thats pricey
when imported and prized by chefs.
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY ELAND PUBLISHING LTD (BOOK); BERND JONKMANNS/LAIF/REDUX (ESSAOUIRA).

ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOE WILSON.
B E ST PA ST RY
Al Jawda
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P. 84
L AV E N D E R
S H O RT B R E A D
W I T H F RU I T S,
F LOW E RS,
AND HERBS
IMMACULATE
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CONFECTION
Its not just about
cookies anymore.
The coolest sweets
of the season are
brought to you
by William Werner,
the brains behind
San Franciscos
ultramodern
patisserie Craftsman
and Wolves
Photographs by
M I C H A E L G R AY D O N +
N I KO L E H E R R I OT T
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G i f t Yo u r s e l f
This recipe makes more
bourbon sugar than youll need,
and thats a good thing. Use it
to top tea cakes and sprinkle
over cookies before baking or
to sweeten your morning
coffee (we wont tell).
P. 86
C H O C O L AT E
FUDGE WITH
B O U R B O N SU GA R
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P. 86
M ATC H AW H I T E
C H O C O L AT E
SU GA R C O O K I E S
Te a Pairings
White chocolate and green
tea are a dream team, but
this cookie can party with
plenty of other mix-ins as
well. Try also adding a
little chopped candied
ginger or dried
apricots.
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F l ex Yo u r B r i t t l e
The thin, shatteringly crisp
consistency of this brittle is
what sets it apart. The key?
Kneading and stretching it
while hot. Watch how at
bonappetit.com
/holidays
P. 86
G O L D E N CAS H E WC U R RY B R I T T L E
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P. 87
SA F F RO N - P E A R
LO L L I P O P S
Pop Star
You dont need a
special mold to make
these. Just pour the
circles a touch smaller
than youd like;
they grow larger
as they pool.
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BA Wreath
Expert
These deceptively simple
lavender shortbread
wreaths will rule your next
cookie swap. See below
for how to pull them off
or watch our video at
bonappetit.com/holidays.
STEP 1
Roll out the cookie dough

between two sheets of lightly
floured parchment paper
until its about " thick.
A b ove : Lavender Shor tbre ad wre aths decorated with ever y thing
from c andied rosemar y to freeze-dried blueberries.
STEP 2
BAKE THE COVER
Lavender Shortbread with

Fruits, Flowers, and Herbs
MAKES 20 For a rundown on some
of the beautiful toppings you can use,
see Prep School on page 131.
until a thick paste forms with no dry spots.

Ideally, glaze should sit at least 12 hours
for sugar to fully hydrate, but it can
be used as soon as cookies have cooled.
Or, you can cover and chill up to 1 week.
Bring to room temperature before using.
Using two round cutters

(one smaller than the
other to make the wreaths
center), punch out circle,
then cut out center.
GLAZE
3 large egg whites

4 cups powdered sugar
tsp. cream of tartar
SHORTBREAD AND ASSEMBLY
1
2
1
cup rice flour

tsp. kosher salt
cups all-purpose flour, plus more
cup plus 6 Tbsp unsalted butter,
cut into pieces, room temperature
cup granulated sugar
1 tsp. coarsely ground dried lavender
Freeze-dried and/or dried fruits,
dried edible flowers, fresh and/or
dried herbs (for decorating)
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: One 3"-diameter
and one 1"-diameter fluted cutter

GLAZE Using a wooden spoon or rubber
spatula, stir egg whites, powdered sugar,
and cream of tartar in a medium bowl
SHORTBREAD AND ASSEMBLY Whisk

rice flour, salt, and 2 cups all-purpose
flour in a medium bowl. Using an
electric mixer on medium-high, beat
butter, sugar, and lavender in a medium
bowl until very pale and fluffy, about 5
minutes. Mix in dry ingredients on low
until fully combined. Wrap in plastic and
chill at least 2 hours and up to 2 days.
Preheat oven to 350. Roll out dough
between 2 sheets of lightly floured
parchment to " thick. Using large cutter,
cut out 16 rounds, rerolling scraps. Using
small cutter, punch out centers. Bake
on parchment-lined baking sheets until
edges are golden, 1214 minutes. Let
cool on a wire rack.
Working quickly, dip tops of cookies
into glaze, letting excess drip off. Transfer
to wire rack and decorate.
DO AHEAD: Store shortbread airtight at
room temperature up to 1 week.
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STEP 3
Dip baked cookies into

the glaze and let the excess
drip back into the bowl. Try
two or three at a time, then
go immediately to Step 4.
STEP 4
Adorn these cookies

however you please, just work
quicklythe toppings wont
stick to dry glaze. Youve got
a minute or so to go wild.
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Mallow Out
To ensure perfectly square
edges, you need a dry
surface and a clean, dry knife.
Sprinkle moisture-absorbing
powdered sugar on the cutting
board and marshmallows,
and rinse and dry your
knife between slices
as needed.
P. 87
B LO O D O R A N G E
AND COCONUT
M A RS H M A L LOWS
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Chocolate Fudge
with Bourbon Sugar
MAKES 32 The exceptional texture and
glossy sheen of this fudge result from the
way you mix it. Make sure the chocolate
and condensed milk are barely hot.
BOURBON SUGAR
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise

1 cup demerara sugar
2 Tbsp. bourbon
FUDGE
Nonstick vegetable oil spray

10 oz. bittersweet chocolate
(preferably 72%), coarsely
chopped
4 oz. unsweetened chocolate,
coarsely chopped
1 14-oz. can sweetened condensed
milk
10 Tbsp. (1 sticks) unsalted butter,
cut into pieces
2 Tbsp. bourbon
1 Tbsp. light corn syrup
tsp. kosher salt
Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon)
BOURBON SUGAR Preheat oven to
150 or as low as yours will go. Scrape
vanilla seeds into a small bowl; stir in
demerara sugar and bourbon. Spread
on a parchment-lined baking sheet and
let dry out in oven overnight, leaving
door slightly ajar. Mixture should feel like
demerara sugar again in the morning.
DO AHEAD: Store bourbon sugar airtight
at room temperature up to 2 months.
FUDGE Line an 8x8" baking dish with
parchment paper, leaving a generous
overhang on 2 sides; lightly coat with
nonstick spray. Heat chocolates in a
heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of
simmering water (do not let bowl touch
water), stirring occasionally, until almost
completely melted. Set aside.
Combine condensed milk, butter,
bourbon, corn syrup, and kosher salt in
a small saucepan; scrape in vanilla
seeds and add pod. Heat over medium
until barely hot (same as the chocolate).
Gently stir one quarter of milk mixture
into chocolate with a rubber spatula. Add
another quarter of milk mixture, stirring
to incorporate (it might look broken and
greasy; dont worry, it will come back
together). Continue with remaining milk
mixture in 2 additions, stirring vigorously
until fudge is very shiny and almost

elastic, about 5 minutes. Scrape into
prepared pan and smooth top. Sprinkle
with bourbon sugar and sea salt.
Let cool, then cover and chill at least
4 hours.
Turn out fudge onto a cutting board
and slice into 2x" rectangles, 2" squares,
or triangles.
DO AHEAD: Fudge can be made 1 week
ahead. Wrap tightly and chill.
MatchaWhite Chocolate
Sugar Cookies
MAKES 24 Powdered green tea gives
these tender cookies an elf-worthy
hue that will stand out, with no icing
or decorating needed.
cup granulated sugar,

divided
tsp. plus 2 Tbsp. matcha
2 cups all-purpose flour
tsp. baking soda
tsp. kosher salt
1 cup (2 sticks) plus 2 Tbsp.
unsalted butter, cut into pieces,
room temperature
cup (packed) light brown
sugar
1 Tbsp. honey
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
3 oz. white chocolate, chopped
than a few hours, let dough sit at room

temperature 1 hour to soften before
scooping and baking.
Preheat oven to 350. Scoop the
dough by the scant tablespoonful onto
2 parchment-lined baking sheets, spacing
about 1" apart. (Or, for neat and tidy
cookies with perfect edges, like the ones
in our photo, portion same amount of
dough into the cups of a mini muffin pan
coated with nonstick vegetable oil spray.)
Bake cookies, rotating baking sheet
halfway through, until bottoms and
edges are barely golden and cooked (top
will no longer look wet), 810 minutes.
Immediatelybut gentlytoss cookies
in reserved matcha sugar and place on
wire racks; let cool.
DO AHEAD: Store cookies airtight
at room temperature up to 2 days.
Golden Cashew-Curry
Brittle
8 SERVINGS Everyone loves brittle, and
most people are happy to avoid the

holiday shopping crowds, which is why
homemade presents like this rule.
For advice on how to pack up this gently
spiced, shatteringly crisp candy, see
Prep School on page 128.
INGREDIENT INFO: Matcha, also called
green tea powder, is available

at Japanese markets and some
supermarkets, and online.

cup cashews
cup sugar
cup light corn syrup
tsp. kosher salt
tsp. curry powder
Tbsp. unsalted butter
tsp. baking soda
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A candy
Whisk cup granulated sugar and

tsp. matcha in a small bowl; set aside.
Whisk flour, baking soda, salt, and
remaining 2 Tbsp. matcha in a medium
bowl. Using an electric mixer on mediumhigh speed, beat butter, brown sugar,
honey, and remaining cup granulated
sugar in a medium bowl until light and
fluffy, about 4 minutes. Add egg, egg
yolk, and lemon zest and mix until very
pale, about 4 minutes.
Reduce mixer speed to low and,
with motor running, add flour mixture;
mix until no dry spots remain. Using a
wooden spoon or rubber spatula, mix
in white chocolate.
Wrap dough in plastic and chill at least
2 hours and up to 5 days. If chilling more
thermometer; latex or other food-grade

disposable gloves
Preheat oven to 350. Lightly coat a
silicone baking mat or parchment paper
with nonstick spray. Toast cashews on
an unlined rimmed baking sheet, tossing
once, until just beginning to brown,
58 minutes. Let cool.
Meanwhile, bring sugar, corn syrup,
and cup water to a boil in a medium
saucepan fitted with a thermometer over
medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve
sugar. Boil, swirling pan occasionally
(at this point, you do not want to stir;
doing so could encourage the sugar
to crystallize), until thermometer
registers 230.
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FOOD STYLING BY SUSAN SPUNGEN. PROP STYLING BY THEO VAMVOUNAKIS. ILLUSTRATIONS BY MAT WILLIAMS.
Add salt, curry powder, and

cashews and stir, making sure cashews
are completely coated and spices are
evenly combined. Continue to cook,
stirring constantly, until thermometer
registers 300 (caramel will be a deep
golden brown and cashews will be
completely toasted).
Remove from heat and carefully stir
in butter and baking soda; caramel will
bubble and foam.
Immediately pour mixture onto
prepared baking mat and let cool slightly.
Wearing gloves (maybe even two pairs
mixture will be extremely hot), lift up
an edge of baking mat and use it to fold
mixture onto itself as if you were going
to knead it; continue working in this
fashion 1 minute. This will distribute the
heat and incorporate air, resulting in a
thin, crackly consistency.
As soon as mixture begins to firm up,
stretch out, making it thin in places, but
keeping it in one piece. (If today is not
your day to sculpt molten sugar, simply
pour mixture onto prepared sheet and
use a spatula to spread it as thin as
you can.) Let cool, then break brittle into
uneven pieces, whatever size you like.
DO AHEAD: Brittle will keep airtight at
Saffron-Pear Lollipops
MAKES 30 Anchor these in short
vases filled with granulated sugar and
win sweetest decor award.

(optional)
Tbsp. finely chopped candied
ginger
tsp. saffron threads, plus more
cups sugar
vanilla bean, split lengthwise
cup light corn syrup
tsp. kosher salt
cup plus 1 Tbsp. pear liqueur
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: 30 lollipop sticks;
a candy thermometer
Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with
silicone baking mats or parchment paper
(lightly coat parchment with nonstick
spray). Have lollipop sticks, candied
ginger, and extra saffron at the ready.
Place sugar and tsp. saffron in a
food processor; scrape in vanilla seeds
(reserve pod for another use). Pulse to
combine, then transfer to a medium

saucepan fitted with thermometer. Stir
in corn syrup, salt, cup liqueur, and
cup water and cook over medium-high
heat, swirling pan occasionally, until
thermometer registers 300. (Syrup will
hit what is known as the hard crack
stage. When cooled, it will be hard and
will snap when bent.) Remove pot from
heat and add remaining 1 Tbsp. liqueur,
swirling pan to cool syrup slightly.
Pour half of syrup into a 1-cup
heatproof measuring cup with a spout;
set remaining syrup aside. Working
quickly, pour syrup onto prepared baking
sheets to make 1" rounds (syrup will
spread slightly).
Immediately place sticks in the center
of each round, spinning to coat (so they
stay stuck in the cooled candy). Scatter a
few saffron threads and pieces of ginger
on top. Repeat with remaining syrup
(reheat gently if it starts to seize). Let cool.
DO AHEAD: Store lollipops airtight
between sheets of parchment paper at
Blood Orange and

Coconut Marshmallows
MAKES 8 STRIPS OR FORTY 2 " PIECES
The key to making even and distinct

layers? Smoothing them out with an oiled
offset spatula and letting the first
layer cool completely before topping.
BLOOD ORANGE LAYER
5
5

tsp. powdered gelatin
cup fresh blood orange juice
Tbsp. light corn syrup, divided
drops (or more) red food
coloring
COCONUT LAYER AND ASSEMBLY
tsp. unflavored gelatin

cup low-fat coconut milk
Tbsp. light corn syrup, divided
cup powdered sugar
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A candy
thermometer
BLOOD ORANGE LAYER Line a 13x9"
rimmed baking sheet (or use a 13x9"
baking pan; marshmallows will be a
bit taller) with a silicone baking mat or
parchment paper and lightly coat with
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nonstick spray. Place cup water in the

bowl of a stand mixer fitted with whisk
attachment and sprinkle gelatin over. Let
stand until softened, about 10 minutes.
Stir granulated sugar, blood orange
juice, and 2 Tbsp. corn syrup in a small
saucepan fitted with thermometer;
bring to a simmer over medium-high heat.
Cook until thermometer registers 230.
Meanwhile, add remaining 3 Tbsp.
corn syrup to gelatin mixture. As soon
as thermometer registers 230 and with
mixer on high speed, add blood orange
syrup to gelatin mixture, drizzling
down the side of the bowl. Beat until soft,
collapsing peaks form and bowl feels
cool to the touch, about 5 minutes.
Mix in red food coloring, adding more
to reach desired color.
Working quickly, scrape blood orange
mixture into prepared pan; smooth into
an even layer with an offset spatula lightly
coated with nonstick spray. Let cool.
COCONUT LAYER AND ASSEMBLY Place
cup water in the bowl of stand mixer

fitted with whisk attachment and
sprinkle gelatin over. Let stand until
softened, about 10 minutes.
Stir granulated sugar, coconut
milk, and 2 Tbsp. corn syrup in a small
saucepan fitted with thermometer; bring
to a simmer over medium-high heat.
Cook until thermometer registers 230.
Meanwhile, add remaining 3 Tbsp.
corn syrup to gelatin mixture. As soon
as thermometer registers 230 and
with mixer on high speed, add coconut
syrup to gelatin mixture, drizzling down
the side of the bowl. Beat until soft,
collapsing peaks form and bowl feels
cool to the touch, about 5 minutes.
Working quickly, scrape coconut
mixture over blood orange layer; smooth
with offset spatula. Let sit, uncovered,
at least 12 hours before cutting.
(Marshmallow will be firm but springy
when pressed.)
Dust a cutting board with powdered
sugar. Gently run a paring knife
around the edge of the pan to release
marshmallow and invert onto cutting
board. Cut marshmallow into "-wide
strips and roll in powdered sugar.
Coil into glass jars for gifting, or cut
into 2" pieces and roll in any remaining
powdered sugar.
DO AHEAD: Store marshmallows
tightly wrapped at room temperature up
to 2 weeks.
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THE
THE
( ROAST DUCKS
W I T H P OTATO E S,
FIGS, AND
R O S E M A R Y P. 9 2 )
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& THE
CE L E B R AT E . P U L L O U T A L L T H E S T O P S .
M A K E D I N N E R S YO U L L B E TA L K I N G A B O U T U N T I L
NEXT DECEMBER. THESE ARE THE
MAIN COURSES GUARANTEED TO IMPRESS
by ALISON ROMAN
photographs by CHRISTOPHER TESTANI
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SEAL THE DEAL
Its all about

making a tight
seal with the salt
crustit forms a
mini-oven around
the fish, keeping
the flavors of the
aromatics inside.
Add just enough
water to the salt
until it feels like
very wet sand. To
test it out, pack
a little in the palm
of your hand; if
it holds its shape
without cracking,
youre good to
go. (If not, add
more water.)
> Watch this
centerpiece come
together at
bonappetit.com
/holidays
( S A LT- B A K E D
WITH CITRUS AND
H E R B S P. 9 5 )
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( BRAISED
SHANKS WITH
BACONPARMESAN
C R U M B S P. 9 5 )
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P O M E G R A N AT E -A N D - F E N N E LGLAZED RACK OF LAMB
8 SERVINGS Two racks make enough for

each person to have two chops. Cut
between each bone individually for single
chops, or cut into double-rib portions.
3 Tbsp. chopped fresh oregano

2 Tbsp. olive oil
3 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. pomegranate
molasses
3 Tbsp. fennel seeds, divided
2 medium fennel bulbs, sliced
lengthwise
1 small onion, thinly sliced
2 33-lb. racks of lamb, rib bones
frenched
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
2 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
cup pomegranate seeds
SOURCING INFO: Be sure to ask
for American lamb rather than

New Zealand. The delicate New Zealand
breeds are much smaller than the meaty
domestic varieties, so the cooking time
(and yield) would change significantly.
INGREDIENT INFO: Pomegranate molasses
is available at Middle Eastern markets
and some supermarkets, and online.
Preheat oven to 425. Mix oregano,

olive oil, 3 Tbsp. pomegranate molasses,
and 2 Tbsp. fennel seeds in a small
bowl; season oregano mixture with salt
and pepper.
Toss fennel, onion, remaining
1 Tbsp. fennel seeds, and remaining
2 tsp. pomegranate molasses in a large
baking dish or roasting pan; season
with salt and pepper. Distribute evenly
across bottom of pan.
Season lamb with salt and pepper.
Heat 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil in a large
skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium.
Cook 1 rack of lamb, fat side down,
until golden brown, 810 minutes.
Turn and cook until other side is just
browned, about 5 minutes. Transfer
to dish with fennel mixture, placing fat
side up, and rub with half of oregano
mixture. Wipe out skillet and repeat
with remaining 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil,
second rack of lamb, and remaining
oregano mixture.
Roast lamb and vegetables until an
instant-read thermometer inserted into
thickest part of lamb registers 125 for
medium-rare, 2530 minutes. Transfer
lamb to a cutting board and let rest
at least 10 minutes before carving.
Meanwhile, toss vegetables in pan

drippings to coat and continue to roast
until tender and starting to caramelize,
1015 minutes. Remove from oven; add
vinegar and toss to combine.
Serve lamb over vegetables topped
with pomegranate seeds.
R OA ST D U C K S W I T H P OTATO E S,
FIGS, AND ROSEMARY
Meanwhile, add figs and remaining

4 rosemary sprigs to pan; toss well. Roast
until figs are soft and juicy, 58 minutes.
Serve duck with figs and potatoes.
H O R S E R A D I S H -A N D - PA R S L E YSTUFFED RIB-EYE ROAST

8 SERVINGS For an instructive primer
on how to butterfly your holiday roast,
go to bonappetit.com/butterfly.
8 SERVINGS
For advice on scoring the

birds and what to do with all that rendered
duck fat, see Prep School on page 128.
8 anchovy fillets packed in oil,

drained, finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, finely grated
1 cup finely chopped fresh parsley
cup grated horseradish
cup olive oil
2 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
1 45-lb. boneless beef rib-eye roast
2 5-lb. whole Pekin ducks

2 large onions, quartered
1 large bunch rosemary, divided
3 lb. small Yukon Gold potatoes,
peeled
2 pints fresh black Mission or
Turkish figs, halved
SOURCING INFO: The rib-eye

SOURCING INFO: Pekin (also known
as Long Island) duck is the most

common variety for whole ducks, and
their size makes them great for roasting.
Many purveyors stock these birds
frozen, so pick them up a day or two
before cooking so they can defrost.
roast comes from the same area

as the standing rib roast, but its a more
manageable size (and cooks more evenly).
It has all the fata.k.a. flavorof prime rib.
Ask your butcher for the bones and roast
them with the meat: Then you can decide
whos been naughty or nice.
Preheat oven to 425. Set ducks, breast

side down, on a work surface and
score fatty areas along backs and thighs
with a paring knife, being careful not
to cut into flesh. Turn over and score fat,
concentrating mainly on breasts but
extending to tops of legs. Poke a few
holes around extra-fatty areas of cavity.
Stuff ducks with onions and all but
4 sprigs rosemary; season generously with
salt and pepper (much of the seasoning
will melt away as the fat renders).
Place ducks, breast side down, in
a large roasting pan; pour in cup
water. Roast, rotating pan occasionally,
until duck fat starts to render, water is
evaporated, and skin is golden brown,
about 40 minutes. Remove pan from
oven and transfer ducks to a platter
or baking dish. Carefully pour rendered
fat into a heatproof measuring cup.
Toss potatoes and cup duck fat in
roasting pan (save remaining fat for
another use); season with salt and pepper.
Scoot potatoes to perimeter and return
ducks to pan, breast side up. Roast until
potatoes and dark meat are tender and
an instant-read thermometer inserted into
breasts registers 155, 5060 minutes.
Transfer ducks to a cutting board; let rest
at least 10 minutes before carving.
Combine anchovies, garlic, parsley,

horseradish, oil, red pepper flakes, and
nutmeg in a small bowl; season with salt
and pepper. Set 2 Tbsp. of mixture aside.
Place rib-eye roast, fat side down, on
a cutting board with a short end toward
you. Holding a sharp slicing knife about
1" above cutting board, make a shallow
cut along the entire length of a long side
of roast. Continue cutting deeper into
the roast, lifting and unfurling meat with
your free hand, until it can lie flat.
Season both sides with salt and pepper.
Spread parsley mixture over roast and
roll up so fat cap is on top; tie at 1"
intervals with kitchen twine. Rub outside
of roast with reserved parsley mixture
and wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Chill at
least 8 hours and up to 1 day.
Let roast sit at room temperature
1 hour to help it roast evenly.
Preheat oven to 400. Place meat on
a rack set inside a roasting pan and roast,
rotating once, until fat is golden brown
and starting to render, 4050 minutes.
Reduce temperature to 300 and
continue to roast until an instant-read
part registers 125 for medium-rare, 11
hours longer. Transfer to a cutting board;
let rest at least 30 minutes before slicing.
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( HORSERADISHA N D - PA R S L E YSTUFFED RIB-EYE
ROAST )
TEMPERATURE
TALK
Overcooking
a precious (and
pricey) piece
of meat like this
one would be
a sin, so invest
in a digital
thermometer
to alleviate
any guesswork.
The internal
temperature
will climb more
quickly toward
the end, and
carryover cooking
will spike it
further, so start
checking about
an hour and 35
minutes into the
roasting time.
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( P O M E G R A N AT E AND-FENNEL-GLAZED
R A C K S P. 9 2 )
ORDER OF
OPERATIONS
Searing the lamb

before rubbing
it with the
oregano mixture
ensures the
meat gets a
beautiful goldenbrown crust
without burning
(otherwise the
sugars in the
pomegranate
molasses could
cause trouble).
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BRAISED VEAL SHANKS WITH

BACON-PARMESAN CRUMBS
8 SERVINGS Theres marrow in those

bones! Scoop out the cooked marrow and
whisk it into the braising liquid, or eat it
on a crust of bread with salt. You earned it.
2 33-lb. veal shanks

6 oz. thick-cut bacon, finely
chopped, divided
12 whole cloves
2 medium onions, peeled,
quartered
2 heads garlic, halved lengthwise
bunch rosemary
bunch thyme
bunch sage, plus 2 Tbsp. leaves
4 bay leaves
1 cup dry white wine
1 28-oz. can whole peeled
tomatoes
6 cups low-sodium chicken broth
1 Tbsp. olive oil
1 cups coarse fresh breadcrumbs
cup finely grated Parmesan
SOURCING INFO: Youll often
FOOD STYLING BY ALISON ROMAN (OPENER); SUSAN SPUNGEN. PROP STYLING BY AMY WILSON.
LETTERING AND ILLUSTRATIONS BY ALAINA SULLIVAN.
see veal shanks cut crosswise

into osso buco, but around the holidays,
we like to braise them whole for a
dramatic presentation. Call in advance
so the butcher sets aside the entire
pieces for you. Theres no need to have
them trimmed; the meat will shrink on
the bones as it braises.
Preheat oven to 300. Season veal
with salt and pepper. Heat vegetable oil
in a large heavy pot over medium-high
heat. Working in batches (do not crowd),
cook, turning occasionally, until golden
brown all over, 810 minutes; transfer
to a platter. Remember: Browned meat
tastes better, and this is your only
opportunity to build that flavor.
Wipe out pot, reduce heat to medium,
and cook two-thirds of bacon,
stirring occasionally, until fat starts to
render (you dont want it to get crisp),
about 4 minutes. Stick cloves in onion
quarters and add to pot along with garlic,
rosemary, thyme, sage sprigs, and bay
leaves; stir to coat. Add wine, bring to a
simmer, and cook until reduced by half,
about 4 minutes.
Add tomatoes, crushing with your
hands as you go, then broth and veal
shanks along with any accumulated
juices. Add water just to cover; season
with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer,
then cover and transfer to oven.
Braise veal shanks, checking

occasionally to make sure liquid is not
boiling too hard and shanks are
still submerged (add water along the
way if needed), until meat is extremely
tender and nearly falling off the bone,
12 hours. Let shanks cool slightly
in liquid, then transfer to a platter or
cutting board and tent with foil.
Strain braising liquid into a medium
saucepan and bring to a simmer over
medium-high heat; cook until liquid
is reduced to about 2 cups, 3040
minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
Meanwhile, cook remaining bacon
in a medium skillet over medium heat,
stirring occasionally, until brown and
crisp, 58 minutes. Transfer bacon
to paper towels with a slotted spoon.
Add olive oil, then breadcrumbs to
skillet, season with salt and pepper,
and cook, tossing occasionally to coat
and brown evenly, until breadcrumbs
are golden brown and crisp, 810
minutes. Add Parmesan, sage leaves,
and reserved bacon and toss to coat.
Transfer to a small bowl.
Spoon some braising liquid over
veal shanks and top with breadcrumbs.
Serve remaining braising liquid
alongside for pouring over.
DO AHEAD: Veal shanks can be braised
2 days ahead. Let cool in unreduced
braising liquid, then cover and chill.
S A LT- B A K E D S A L M O N
WITH CITRUS AND HERBS
8 SERVINGS It can be hard to
gauge whats happening under all that
salt, but these times are accurate.
If your fish is on the smaller side, take
it out on the lower end of the range.
SALMON
1 56-lb. head- and tail-on

salmon or arctic char,
cleaned
10 cups kosher salt (from about
one 48-oz. box), plus more
1 grapefruit, thinly sliced
2 lemons, thinly sliced
bunch dill
bunch tarragon
BEURRE BLANC AND ASSEMBLY
1 small shallot, finely chopped

cup dry white wine
cup (1 sticks) chilled unsalted
butter, cut into pieces
2 Tbsp. crme frache
1 tsp. finely grated grapefruit zest
1 tsp. fresh grapefruit juice
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3 tsp. fresh lemon juice, divided
Kosher salt
1 cup fresh parsley leaves with
tender stems
cup fresh dill leaves
cup fresh tarragon leaves
2 Tbsp. chopped capers
2 tsp. caraway seeds
SOURCING INFO: Salmon will
be closer to 5 lb.; arctic char

closer to 6 lb. Not all shops will have
whole fish this large on hand; call ahead
so they can order it.
SALMON Place a rack in the center
of oven and preheat to 400. Season

inside of salmon with salt. Stuff with
one-third of grapefruit slices, lemon
slices, dill sprigs, and tarragon sprigs.
Mix 10 cups salt and 1 cups water
in a large bowl, adding more water
as needed, until mixture is the texture
of wet sand. Spread a thin layer of salt
mixture on a rimmed baking sheet
roughly the same shape and size as fish.
Top salt mixture with another third
of grapefruit and lemon slices and dill
and tarragon sprigs; set salmon on salt
bed and top with remaining citrus and
herbs. Pack remaining salt mixture over
fish, leaving head and tail peeking out.
Roast salmon until just cooked
through (poke a paring knife or metal
skewer though the salt and into the
flesh; it should feel warm to the touch
when removed), 4050 minutes.
BEURRE BLANC AND ASSEMBLY While
salmon is cooking, simmer shallot and

wine in a small saucepan until only
2 Tbsp. liquid remains, 810 minutes.
Whisking constantly, add butter a piece
at a time, incorporating completely
before adding the next piece, to make
a glossy, emulsified sauce.
Whisk crme frache, grapefruit
zest, grapefruit juice, lemon zest, and
1 tsp. lemon juice into sauce; season
with salt. Reduce heat to low and keep
sauce warm while you finish the dish.
Remove salmon from oven and
using a knife or the edge of a fish spatula,
crack salt crust and remove (it should
come off in large pieces); let salmon sit
5 minutes before serving.
Meanwhile, toss parsley, dill, tarragon,
capers, caraway seeds, and remaining
2 tsp. lemon juice in a medium bowl;
season herb salad with salt.
Serve salmon with beurre blanc
and herb salad.
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TIS THE
SEASON(ING)
WorldMags.net
Need a simple yet

head-turning
party starter? Just
turn the page.
WorldMags.net
Forget about every canap

or thing-on-a-stick that you
were planning to serve at your party.
Forget about platters. Forget about,
like, toothpicks. All you need is a
smoked bone-in ham. Order a good
one (dartagnan.com is a fine choice),
score, glaze, and bake it. Put that ham
on a big wooden board, provide a
blade with which to slice it (a carving
knife, say), and a vehicle with which to
devour it (Martins potato rolls, natch;
order at potatorolls.com). Then watch
your guests turn into a pack of wolves,
leaving you with just a boneand the
memory of the best holiday party ever.
Ham is the star

of our BA holiday
party. Watch
the video at
bonappetit.com
/holidays
The Ham
The Glaze
The Fixins
Place one 1214-lb. whole cured,

smoked, bone-in ham, skin removed, fat
trimmed " thick, on a rack in a large
roasting pan and add 2 cups water (this
keeps drippings from scorching). Score
fat in a crosshatch pattern, cutting about
" deep. Brush ham with glaze (see right)
and roast in a 350 oven, basting with
pan juices every 20 minutes and tenting
with foil if needed, until an instant-read
part of ham registers 135, 12 hours
(a 1416-lb. ham will take 1 hour longer).
Let rest 10 minutes or more before
carving. Serves at least 20 revelers
A sweet-spicy glaze is an impressive

and easyparty trick. Use the formula
below, choosing one of each from the
sweet, spicy, and boozy rows.
With 1 Martins potato rolls (dinner

party 24-pack size, please), 2 Dijon
mustard, and 3 cornichons, your ham
becomes a serve-yourself feast.
THE BASE
CUP BITTER ORANGE MARMALADE
SWEET
CUP
Honey Pure maple syrup

Light brown sugar
S P I CY
1 T B S P.
Adobo sauce
Aleppo pepper
Spicy Dijonmustard
BOOZ Y
3 T B S P.
Bourbon
Cognac
Dark rum
PA RT Y O N A
SCHOOL NIGHT
Holiday weekends book up fast, but

Tuesdaythats when people really need
to let loose. So throw a party!
Belle Cushing, editorial assistant
WorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
O N H A N U K K A H , G I V E T H E G I F T O F L AT K E T O P P I N G S . Warning: If you serve the following with latkes, your family might
freak out. But if you dont serve the following (in addition to applesauce and sour cream), theyll never know what theyre missing.
Labneh and pomegranate seeds Greek yogurt and maple syrup An herby aioli Prepared horseradish mixed with sour cream
A Candy Bowl
Is Never Overkill
Who doesnt like their rugelach and Christmas cookies
with a side of peppermint snaps, salted caramels, and
hand-pulled taffy? Joanna Sciarrino, assistant editor
Three favorites: Bergamot salt water taffy takes us away to the
beach, $7; thesaltyroad.com. Goat milk caramels have a depth
others only hint at, $8; bigpicturefarm.com. Peppermint snaps
mix chocolate and mint (below), $26; williams-sonoma.com.
Drink Like T H E F O O D I ST
The holidays. Every night is
another chance to imbibe.
It adds up fast. So if you drink,
you need rules. Here are my
Dos and Donts of the season.
1 Do drink the punch. Just
remember: It might be all cute
and pink and bubbly, but its
potent. Proceed with caution.
2 Do stick with one type
of booze on any given night:
liquor, beer, or wine. The
exception: a shot and a beer.
WARDROBE STYLING BY SHEYNA IMM. RING BY ALDO. DRESS BY REBECCA MINKOFF. OPENER: SHIRT BY ZARA. TIE BY TOPSHOP.
3 Dont go crazy at work parties.

I like a two-drink maximum.
Keep business business.
4 Do put on a tie or a nice dress.
Its amazing how civilized people
will act (read: not get wasted)
when they look good.
5 Dont start the evening with
whiskey on the rocks. Go lightish
with a highball or lower-alcohol
aperitif. Campari and soda is my
party starter of choice.
6 Do drink Champagne (see No.
11), but feel free to mix things
up (literally) in the cocktail below.
The Jimmie
Roosevelt
A classic
Champagne
cocktail
Pretty much any

candy will look
holiday-ready in
this John
Rocha cut crystal
bowl ($475;
waterford.com).
G I V E YO U R S E L F A B R E A K Before all the craziness starts,

look at your schedule and cross one thing off. Just opt out. Dont
worry: That cookie-swap invite will come again next year, we promise.
Christine Muhlke, executive editor
WorldMags.net
Place 1 sugar cube

in a coupe glass
and soak with
Angostura bitters.
Add a handful
of cracked ice
cubes and 2 oz.
Cognac; top with
2 oz. Champagne.
Drizzle with
oz. Chartreuse
liqueur. Add
ice until almost
brimming. Makes 1
D R I N K U P ! Watch Andrew Knowlton,

a.k.a. The Foodist, talking holiday imbibing
strategies at bonappetit.com/holidays
WorldMags.net
DO AHEAD
Dough (before
rising) can be
made 1 day
ahead; chill until
ready to use.
Get the recipe for

Babkallah
French Toast at
bonappetit.com
/holidays
The Cronut? So 2013. Introducing our test kitchens hybrid baby, the Babkallah. Braided
like a challah for maximum babka-y chocolate swirl in every bite, it will make your original
Houseguest Breakfast Plan (i.e., Theres Raisin Bran in the cupboard!) look a little, well, lame.
Whats even better? Using it to make ultradecadent French toast.
1 0 0 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M D EC E M B E R 2 0 14
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DO THE TWIST
Braiding our
Babkallah is easy.
For a how-to, see
Prep School, p. 127.
WorldMags.net
Chocolate-Cinnamon Babkallah
DOUGH
1
4
1
cup whole milk

-oz. envelope active dry yeast
large egg yolks
tsp. vanilla extract
cup (1 stick) unsalted butter,
melted, cooled, plus more
1 tsp. kosher salt
3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more
G O N U T S ( L I T E R A L LY ) Set out bowls of in-shell nuts for guests

to descend upon pre- and post-meal (or while watching the San Diego
County Credit Union Poinsettia Bowl). Trade up from that bag of mixed
nuts sitting at the grocery store since June. Order from the farm. We like:
Oregon Orchard Ennis hazelnuts, $22 for 5 lb.; oregonorchard.net

Nunes Farms almonds, $16 for 2 lb.; nunesfarms.com
Old Dog Ranch Chandler walnuts (below), $7 for 1 lb.; olddogranch.com
FILLING AND ASSEMBLY
6 oz. bittersweet chocolate,

finely chopped
cup (packed) light brown sugar
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
All-purpose flour (for surface)
cup ( stick) unsalted butter,
room temperature
1 large egg yolk
Granulated sugar (for sprinkling)
DOUGH Heat milk in a small saucepan until
warm. Transfer to a large bowl and whisk
in yeast; let sit until foamy, 510 minutes.
Whisk in egg yolks, vanilla, and cup
butter. Add sugar, salt, and 3 cups flour; mix
until a shaggy dough forms. Knead dough
on a lightly floured surface until supple,
smooth, and no longer shiny, 510 minutes.
Transfer to a large buttered bowl. Cover
and let sit in a warm place until doubled in
size, 12 hours.
G E T C R AC K I N G
Stainless-steel
nutcracker and oak
bowl, $195;
georgjensen.com
FILLING AND ASSEMBLY Mix chocolate,
brown sugar, and cinnamon in a small bowl.

Turn out dough onto a lightly floured
surface; divide into three portions. Shape
each into a 12"-long rope. Roll out each rope
to a 12x6" rectangle about " thick. Brush
with butter and top with chocolate mixture,
pressing gently. Roll up to form a log; pinch
seam to seal.
Place logs, seam side down, side by side
on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Pinch
logs together at one end; braid, then pinch
ends together and tuck under. Cover loosely
and let sit in a warm place until 1 times
larger, 12 hours.
Preheat oven to 350. Beat egg yolk with
1 Tbsp. water in a small bowl. Brush dough
with egg wash; sprinkle with granulated sugar.
Bake until top is golden brown and Babkallah
sounds hollow when bottom is tapped, 3545
minutes. Let cool on a wire rack. 12 servings
Forget Caroling. Be a
Jukebox Hero This Year
Did you know Elvis, Neil Young, and Johnny Cash did
awesome versions of The Little Drummer Boy? I didnt, until
my dad made me a holiday mix tape. Christmas music
by artists I already lovenow a Roman family tradition.
Alison Roman, senior associate food editor
Stream our BA holiday playlist this season at bonappetit.com/holidays
M A K E A C L A S S I C M O V I E YO U R N E W Y U L E L O G
Some traditions youre born into. Others arrive through

marriage. I used to view my in-laws annual binge-watching of
White Christmas as amusing at best. Musicals: hilarious! Then
my wife and I spent the holidays together, just the two of us.
On Christmas Eve, I found myself raptand, yes, a tad misty
as Bing Crosby and Danny Kaye sang their way through postwar
America, wooed the Haynes Sisters, and schemed to help
out an old Army buddy. Sure, the 1954 flick is hokey, but sitting
there with my new family, lights blinking on the tree as Crosby
crooned Im dreaming, I got it. Watching a holiday movie
embraces all the best parts of the season: cozy togetherness,
ritual, and a shared love of manufactured nostalgia that, in
the end, is actually quite moving. Scott DeSimon, deputy editor
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D EC E M B E R 2 0 14 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 1 0 1
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THE RIGHT
BUBBLES ARE NO
TROUBLE
Champagnethe
real stuffis the
one New YearsEve
sparkler that
rules them all. Let
David Lynch,
BAs Wine Insider,
guide you through
the different
levels of the worlds
best bubbly.
N O. 1
Big party. Lots of

people. You need
a case (at least!).
The magic number
for value is $40
a bottle. Look
to the worlds No. 3
brand: Nicolas
Feuillattes
nonvintage brut
($35) lets you scale
up affordably.
Youre making a zillion

things, not to mention dealing
with a house full of crazy
people delightful relatives.
Dont even think about
elaborate lunches, especially
when all anyone wants is
a sandwich. So stock up on
the best meats and cheeses
from the deli counterthinly
shaved mortadella, coppa,
smoked turkey, provolone
and grab a Pullman loaf
and some kaiser rolls. Then
take it all to the next level
with the condiments at right.
N O. 3
Intimate night.
Fire. Couch.
Time to dig
deep. The choice?
Jacques Selosse
NV Initiale Brut
($170): If you cant
close after a couple
glasses of this,
we cant help you.
WITNESS THE MIRACLE OF

G O O D H A N U K K A H G E LT
Spare yourself the waxy taste of the meh gelt. Chicago-based Veruca
Chocolates makes (kosher-certified) Gelt for Grown-Ups, airbrushed
coins featuring ingredients like sea salt. $15; verucachocolates.com
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ILLUSTRATION BY CLAIRE MCCRACKEN
N O. 2
Dinner party. Eight

people. Fancy.
Go for something
more serious. The
Roger Coulon Brut
Millsime ($70),
a deeper, denser,
food-friendly sipper
crafted only from
the red Pinots,
Meunier and Noir.
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Please
Everyone,
Even Your
Vegan Aunt
This one-dish wonder grants you immunity
from even the most gluten-averse, meatabstaining, fat-conscious houseguests.
And the spicy vegetarian curry tastes as
good as ever reheated.
Sweet Potato Curry
1 lemongrass stalk, tough outer layer
removed, coarsely chopped
1 2" piece ginger, peeled, chopped
4 garlic cloves
Kosher salt
cup red curry paste
2 Tbsp. tomato paste
1 14.5-oz. can crushed tomatoes
2 13.5-oz. cans coconut milk
1 lb. sweet potatoes, peeled, cut into
1" pieces
lb. small or young carrots, peeled,
cut on a diagonal into 2" pieces
6 medium shallots, peeled keeping
roots intact, quartered lengthwise
1 red Thai chile, thinly sliced (optional)
1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
Steamed jasmine rice (for serving)
Thinly sliced scallions, basil leaves,
cilantro leaves with tender stems,
and lime wedges (for serving)
6
4
1. Bees Knees
Spicy Honey $14;
mixedmade.com
2. Sir Kensingtons
Chipotle Mayonnaise
$6; vitacost.com
3. Victoria Amory
Roasted Garlic
Mayonnaise 3 for $20;
victoriaamory.com
4. Edmond Fallot
Horseradish
Dijon Mustard $6;
thefrenchybee.com
5. Ricks Picks Hotties
$7; rickspicks.com
6. Peppadew Whole
Sweet Piquant
Peppers $9;
murrayscheese.com
Pulse lemongrass, ginger, and garlic in a

food processor until very finely chopped.
Heat oil in a large heavy pot over medium
heat. Add lemongrass mixture and cook,
stirring often, until golden brown, about
5 minutes; season with salt. Add curry
and tomato pastes and cook, stirring, until
darkened, about 3 minutes. Add tomatoes
and cook, scraping up any browned bits, until
thickened, about 5 minutes. Stir in coconut
milk; season with salt. Bring to a boil; reduce
heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until
curry is rich and full of flavor, 2025 minutes.
Add sweet potatoes and carrots, then pour
in water to cover. Partially cover pot and cook
until carrots are crisp-tender, 1015 minutes.
Add shallots and cook until potatoes are
tender and shallots are soft, 1520 minutes.
Add chile, if desired, and lime juice to
curry and spoon over rice. Top with scallions,
basil, and cilantro; serve with lime wedges.
DO AHEAD: Curry can be made 2 days
ahead. Let cool; cover and chill. 12 servings
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In a classic case of more
is more, a beach-ball-size bowl
of eggnog or puncheven
a stockpot of mulled anything
turns any house into holiday
central. But wait, you say, think
about the children! We do.
We always serve a bowl minus
the booze for the kids.
B O W L GA M E S
Copper punch bowl,

$70, mugs,
$20 each, ladle, $30;
alchemade.com
P R O F I T F R O M FA M I LY T I M E
Who needs Secret Santa? My family plays Left Right Center ($9; amazon.com), a dice game
simple enough for a five-year-old. Everyone ponies up $15, so its one case where the more
relatives, the better. Higher stakes mean high excitement, especially for the person who wins all
that cashIm looking at you, Grandma! Dan Aldworth, associate director, public relations
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FEAST ON SEVEN
FA B U L O U S F I S H E S
Cashew Nut Nog

1 cup cashews
1 cup skin-on hazelnuts
(not roasted)
2 wide strips orange zest
2 cinnamon sticks
2 star anise pods
4 whole cloves
1 13.5-oz. can coconut milk
2 Tbsp. agave syrup (nectar)
1 tsp. vanilla extract
4 large egg whites*
cup powdered sugar
1 Tbsp. cornstarch
tsp. cream of tartar
1 cup dark or spiced rum
(optional)
Freshly grated nutmeg
(for serving)
You dont have to be named Sal to adopt the Feast of the Seven Fishes. But you do need a good
fishmonger. Honolulu Fish Company (honolulufish.com) ships wild-caught fish like opakapaka,
king salmon, and albacore tuna overnight. Now, mangia.
S TA S H A S E C R E T W E A P O N I N T H E F R I D G E Fixing a cocktail isnt hard,

but isnt it nice when someone else does it for you? We like the bottled ones
from Californias Craft Distillers, like the holiday-appropriate St. Nick made
with brandy and cranberry liqueur. $20 for 200 ml; caddellwilliams.com
FIG-POWERED
For more on the

sweet indulgence
of figs, see Prep
School, page 128.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: 2 pieces of

FOOD STYLING BY ALISON ATTENBOROUGH. PROP STYLING BY BEVERLEY HYDE. LETTERING BY TRAVIS W. SIMON.
*RAW EGG IS NOT RECOMMENDED FOR THE ELDERLY, PREGNANT WOMEN, CHILDREN UNDER 4, AND PEOPLE WITH WEAKENED IMMUNE SYSTEMS.
cheesecloth
Combine cashews, hazelnuts, and
4 cups hot water in a blender or a large
bowl. Tie up orange zest, cinnamon,
star anise, and cloves in a layer of
cheesecloth. Lightly crush spices with
a wooden spoon to release oils and
add to nut mixture. Let sit overnight.
Remove spice bundle; discard.
Blend nut mixture 2 minutes. Strain
through a fine-mesh sieve lined with
a layer of cheesecloth into a large
pitcher, squeezing out as much liquid
as possible. Whisk coconut milk,
agave, and vanilla into nut milk. Cover
and chill until cold, at least 3 hours.
Just before serving, beat egg
whites in a medium bowl to soft peaks;
beat in powdered sugar, cornstarch,
and cream of tartar. Combine rum, if
using, and nut milk mixture in a
punch bowl. Top with meringue and
sprinkle with nutmeg.
DO AHEAD: Nut milk mixture can be
made 5 days ahead. Keep chilled.
12 servings
Be Prepared to
Play Santa at All Times
The UPS guy. The math teacher. And howd you forget your kids
friends parents? Avoid beating yourself up and make a batch
of giftable fig-quince preserves. Pack it in cute jars and youre
ready to hand out gratitude. If theres some left over, all the
better. Its the perfect boost for that sandwich buffet (see No. 12).
Get the recipe for Quince and Mission Fig Preserves at bonappetit.com/holidays
A L WAY S WA N T E D A G I A N T S U B - Z E R O F R I D G E ?
I T S C A L L E D YO U R B A C K P O R C H
FEELING PUNCHY?
Good thing. Because weve

got plenty of holiday punches
and mulled goodness online
at bonappetit.com/holidays
Put that deck or unheated garage to use. It can keep your pie
chilled, your buttercream set, your whipped cream cake
safe, your beverages coldand your actual fridge manageable.
Stacey Rivera, digital director
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Meet at the Majorstuen

subway stop in Oslo at
5:50 p.m. sharp, dress
warmly, and come hungry.
So thats what I do.
Soon there are 20 of us
introducing ourselves to
one another, not quite sure
what kind of adventure
were in for. Most everyone
is Norwegian, but there are
a few Swedes and Danes, a
Finn, an Australian, and me.
What the rest of them have
in common is food and
the place they call home.
They also, in one way or
another, make up the Whos
Who in this capital citys
burgeoning culinary scene.
Like Copenhagen before it, Oslo is fast

becoming a destination for people who
travel to eat. In the 15 years Ive been coming here, the change has been astonishing.
I still love brown cheese and fish roe in
a tube, but now I balance that with the
best butter in the world (from Rros) and
langoustine served over spruce vapors at
two-Michelin-starred Maaemo. The dinner
were going to tonightset deep in a fairytale forest near Oslos most popular ski
areais a celebration of that change.
The subway ride takes 20 minutes and
is packed with night skiers. By the time
we arrive at the Oslo Vinterpark ski trails,
there is a foot of snow on the ground
and more coming down. This group is
prepared: Norwegians may not spend a
lot on fancy gadgets, but when it comes
to the latest, greatest outdoor gear, price
is no barrier. Everyone is wearing furry
bomber hats with flaps that cover the
ears, and some, boots made of seal. I dont
ask where they got them.
There is one problem when we step
off the train: the lavvo, or teepee, were
supposed to be dining in is nowhere
to be seen. Dont worry, one of the
lantern-carrying hosts assures us. Its
only a 45-minute walk. Forty-five minutes. And yet nobody complains. They
all just shrug, as if to say, Whats a little
nighttime stroll through a snowy forest?
The mastermind behind our mysterious holiday outing is Cecilie Dawes,
founder of Food Studio, a sustainabilityoriented think tank and pop-up supper
club that brings people together to celebrate food in unusual (and often breathtaking) settings. Theyve thrown parties
on the banks of the Akerselva River and
on an island in the Oslofjord. Tonight,
its inside a teepee on a mountain overlooking the city.
There is a break on the hike in. Halvor
Digernes, co-owner of Fuglen, a coffee and
cocktail bar in Olso, hands me an aquavit
toddy made with apple juice and cardamom and star anise syrup. After downing
two, Im hungry. Thankfully, the teepee
is just up the hill. Be careful of the skiers, Im warnedespecially the kamikaze
six-year-olds who slow down for no one.
When we arrive, we are handed vintage
Norwegian sweaters to wear. The ground
and benches are covered with reindeer
pelts, and hand-drawn menus and recipe
cards are placed at each setting. It feels

like the Red Wedding scene in Game of
Thrones, minus the blood.
Christmas in Norway is a family affair,
and foodwise, the whole country cooks
similar things. This evenings dinner, prepared by Anders Braathen, head chef at
all-day cafe Smalhans in Oslo, is representative of the traditional meal. To start, we
feast on dill-cured arctic char with lefse
(like a potato-based tortilla) and herring
in mustard sour cream on rye. For entres,
families typically serve a whole fish such
as salmon, pinnekjtt (lamb chops that
have been salted, dried, and then soaked
in water and cooked), or ribbe (pork belly
with the ultracrispy skin left on).
Braathen spent all day making a perfect rendition of the latter. Potatoes are
roasted and topped with fenalr, or cured
lamb, and an aged goat cheeseNorways
answer to Canadian poutine. A cabbage
and apple salad adds a touch of lightness
to the meal, while several glasses of Voss
Bryggeri craft beer and aquavit help cut
through all the richness. (What vodka is
to Russia, aquavit is to Norway. Dont ask;
just drink.)
Next thing I know, Im full, a little bit
tipsy, and speaking in broken Norwegian
to chef Esben Holmboe Bang of Maaemo.
Bang is Danish, but like me, he married
a Norwegian; he now calls this country
home. When I ask him what makes this
food the next big thing, he pauses, does
a shot of aquavit, and says, Norway has
been through a period of culinary stagnation, but we are finally waking up. Were
shaping our own unique identity through
the land and its ingredients, and thats a
beautiful thing to be a part of. We do another shot and toast our wives homeland.
It wouldnt be a Norwegian party
without dessert and coffee. Tonight, its
a sweet, creamy barley porridge topped
with sour cloudberries and served with
coffee from Tim Wendelboe, one of the
worlds most respected roasters.
Its almost 11 p.m., and we have to make
the last train. Halvor hands everyone a
bottled cocktail made with aquavit for
the long walk back. The snow is coming
down heavier now. The moon is shining,
making the landscape glow. All the skiers
have gone home. Now its just me and
20 new friends, taking a midnight stroll
in the snowy Norwegian woods.
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Star anise for hot toddies; Talor

Browne of Tim Wendelboe brewing
coffee; host Anne Maurseth of
Oslos No. 19 bar; Jan Svartsund,
chief forager at Food Studio,
working on the day crew; the
teepee; the long hike to dinner;
Smalhans sous chef Jon Marius
Sletten slicing fenalr; Herring in
Mustard Sour Cream on Rye Bread
(see p. 114 for recipe); Aquavit
Toddy (go to bonappetit.com/
norway for the recipe); Beer-Braised
Pork Belly (p. 117); the lift at Oslo
Vinterpark; Food Studio founder
Cecilie Dawes setting the table.
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Smalhans chefs
Anders Braathen,
left, and Jon Marius
Sletten arrive early
to prepare dinner.
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Does it get any
more Scandi than
Food Studio
volunteer Sandra
Arvidsson?
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HERRING IN MUSTARD SOUR
CREAM ON RYE BREAD
8 SERVINGS Purists will tell you this just

gets better with time, so prepare it in
advance of your party.
4 pickled herring fillets, sliced into

" pieces
medium onion, finely chopped
small fennel bulb, finely
chopped
1 cup sour cream
2 Tbsp. whole grain Dijon mustard
2 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh
chives
1 Tbsp. finely grated peeled
horseradish or 2 tsp. prepared
horseradish
8 slices dark seeded bread
or rye bread, cut into squares
or triangles
Fresh parsley leaves (for serving)
Mix pickled herring, onion, fennel, sour
cream, mustard, chives, horseradish,
and lemon juice in a small bowl; season
with salt, pepper, and more lemon if
desired. Transfer to a large jar; cover and
chill at least 12 hours and up to 2 weeks.
Serve herring mixture on bread
topped with parsley.
CURED ARCTIC CHAR

8 SERVINGS
This method works well

with other fish. Substitute salmon
or fresh trout for the char if you like.
CURED CHAR
1 whole large skin-on arctic char,

(11 lb.), bones removed
cup kosher salt
cup sugar
2 tsp. mustard seeds
2 tsp. finely grated orange zest
cup finely chopped fresh dill
2 Tbsp. aquavit
PICKLED ONION AND ASSEMBLY
small red onion, chopped

cup apple cider vinegar
tsp. sugar
tsp. kosher salt
Lefse (see recipe)
Crme frache and dill sprigs
(for serving)
Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon)
CURED CHAR Rinse char under cold
running water; pat dry with paper towels.

Mix salt, sugar, mustard seeds, orange
zest, and lemon zest in a small bowl,
then massage into char. Place skin side
down in a baking dish; top with dill and
drizzle with aquavit. Cover tightly with
plastic wrap, pressing directly onto fish.
Chill, turning 23 times and pouring off
any accumulated liquid each time, until
flesh is very firm and almost translucent,
24 days (it will get saltier and firmer
the longer it sits). Thoroughly rinse char
and pat dry with paper towels.
DO AHEAD: Char can be cured (and
rinsed) 1 week ahead. Cover and chill.
PICKLED ONION AND ASSEMBLY Place
onion in a small heatproof jar. Bring
vinegar, sugar, kosher salt, and 2 Tbsp.
water to a simmer in a small saucepan,
stirring to dissolve. Pour over onion.
Cover and chill until onion is bright pink,
at least 8 hours and up to 2 days.
Thinly slice char and serve on lefse
topped with crme frache, dill, pickled
onion, and sea salt.
LEFSE
8 SERVINGS Like a potato-y flatbread

and great topped with cured fish.
2 large russet potatoes, scrubbed

cup heavy cream
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, room
temperature, cut into " pieces
tsp. kosher salt
1 cups all-purpose flour, plus more
Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat
to 400. Prick potatoes all over with
a fork and bake directly on the rack until
yielding when pressed, about 1 hour.
When cool enough to handle, scoop
flesh into a large bowl; discard skins
(or nibble on them with butter and salt
we wont judge). Mash potato with a fork
until only a few lumps remain. Let cool.
Mix in cream, butter, salt, and
1 cups flour with a fork until a shaggy
ball forms. Turn out on a lightly floured
surface and knead, working in more
flour a tablespoonful at a time, until
dough is smooth, elastic, and soft, about
3 minutes. Cover loosely and let rest
10 minutes. Divide dough into 12 portions.
Heat a dry griddle or large skillet,
preferably cast iron, over medium heat.
Working with 1 portion at a time and
keeping others covered, roll out dough

on a floured surface as thinly as possible
to make an irregular 8"-diameter round
(perfection is overrated). Cook until
dough looks dry and is browned in spots,
about 2 minutes per side. Transfer lefse
to a wire rack; let cool.
DO AHEAD: Lefse can be made 2 days
ahead. Store tightly wrapped at room
temperature.
CABBAGE AND APPLE SALAD
8 SERVINGS Its amazing how much pork

belly you can eat when you alternate with
bites of this crunchy and cleansing slaw.
tsp. caraway seeds

small head green cabbage, core
removed, thinly sliced
1 green apple, cut into matchsticks
1 cup torn kale leaves
2 Tbsp. olive oil
Toast caraway seeds in a dry small skillet
over medium heat, tossing constantly,
until fragrant, about 1 minute. Let cool.
Toss cabbage, apple, kale, and caraway
seeds with lemon juice and oil in a large
bowl; season with salt and pepper.
POTATO GRATIN WITH

GOAT CHEESE
8 SERVINGS
Bcheron is an aged goat

cheesesharp but gooey and oozy
around the edge. If using fresh goat
cheese, it will soften not melt.
3 large russet potatoes (about
1 lb.), scrubbed, cut into
"-thick wedges
cup olive oil
2 Tbsp. fresh rosemary leaves
4 oz. Bcheron or fresh goat cheese
Preheat oven to 425. Toss potatoes
with oil and rosemary in a baking dish;
season with salt and pepper. Roast,
tossing halfway through, until potatoes
are golden brown and tender, 2530
minutes. Pierce with a paring knife,
or eat one, to make sure theyre ready.
Remove potatoes from oven and heat
broiler. Crumble cheese over potatoes
and broil until cheese is golden brown
and bubbling.
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TO G ET T H E
R EC I P E FO R T H E
AQ UAV I T TO D DY,
G O TO B O N A P P E T I T
.C O M / N O RWAY
The Food
Studio gang, plus
guests, sipping
toddies around
a roaring fire
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B E E R - B R A I S E D P O R K B E L LY
8 SERVINGS The closer together you
FOOD STYLING BY ANDERS BRAATHEN AND JON MARIUS SLETTEN FROM SMALHANS. PROP STYLING BY RUNA KLOCK AND CAROLINE MAGNUS FROM FOOD STUDIO. ILLUSTRATIONS BY KARINA EIBATOVA.
SHOT ON LOCATION AT DREYER HENSLEY STUDIO AND OSLO VINTERPARK. CREW FOOD BY JULIE ILONA BALAS FROM MATBLOGGEN AT GRAYZINE.NO. PRODUCTION BY FOOD STUDIO.
make the crosshatch cuts through

the skin, the easier this will be to eat.
3 lb. skin-on, boneless center-cut
pork belly
1 star anise pod
2 whole cloves
1 Tbsp. coriander seeds
1 tsp. fennel seeds
2 12-oz. bottles stout or porter
2 cups unfiltered apple juice or
apple cider
1 large onion, thinly sliced into rings
4 medium carrots, peeled,
cut on a diagonal into 1" pieces
cup coarsely chopped dried
apricots
cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
1 medium shallot, finely chopped
Fresh lemon juice
Finely grated peeled horseradish
(for serving)
Preheat oven to 250. Using a very sharp
knife, score pork in a tight crosshatch
pattern to form " diamonds, cutting
through fat but stopping at flesh. Season
with salt and pepper, massaging into cuts.
Heat oil in a large heavy pot over
medium-high (if belly doesnt fit, cut
in half crosswise). Cook pork, skin side
down, turning once, until browned
all over, 58 minutes per side (be careful,
fat will splatter). Transfer to a plate.
Pour off all but 2 Tbsp. drippings
from pot, add star anise, cloves, and
coriander and fennel seeds, and cook
over low heat, stirring, until spices are
fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add beer
and apple juice, scraping up browned
bits. Add pork along with onion and
carrots, adding water if needed to
cover. Bring to a simmer, cover pot, and
transfer to oven. Braise pork 3 hours.
Add apricots and braise until pork is very
tender but not falling apart, 12 hours.
Transfer pork, skin side up, to a
rimmed baking sheet. Place vegetables
and apricots in a large bowl; keep warm.
Increase oven temperature to 475; roast
pork until skin is brown and very crisp,
2535 minutes (the crispier, the better).
Meanwhile, pour braising liquid into
a large saucepan and skim off fat. Bring
to a boil; reduce heat and simmer until
reduced by two-thirds, 2535 minutes.
Heat butter in a small saucepan over

medium-low, stirring often, until it foams,
then browns, about 5 minutes. Add brown
butter and shallot to braising sauce;
season with lemon juice, salt, and pepper.
Cut pork into 8 pieces; serve with
sauce, vegetables, and some horseradish.
ALMOND-BARLEY PORRIDGE
WITH FRUIT COMPOTE
8 SERVINGS Live in a magical place where

cloudberries abound? Use them instead
of the cherries, as they do in Norway.
COMPOTE
cup sugar
cup dried cherries, divided
PORRIDGE
cup sliced blanched almonds,

divided
4 cups whole milk
cup pearl barley
tsp. kosher salt
3 oz. white chocolate, chopped
3 Tbsp. sugar
1 cup heavy cream
COMPOTE Bring sugar, cup cherries,
and 1 cups water to a simmer in a small

saucepan over medium-low heat. Cook,
stirring often and mashing fruit, until
cherries start to fall apart, 1520 minutes.
Add remaining cup cherries and cook,
stirring, until plumped, 58 minutes.
Let cool. Cover and chill if making
ahead (up to 1 week), but bring to room
temperature before serving.
PORRIDGE Preheat oven to 350. Toast
almonds on a rimmed baking sheet,
tossing once, until golden brown, 57
minutes. Let cool.
Combine milk, barley, and salt
in a medium saucepan. Scrape in vanilla
seeds and add pod. Bring to a boil;
reduce heat and simmer, stirring often
and adding a little water if mixture gets
too thick before barley is cooked, until
barley is very tender and porridge is the
consistency of oatmeal, 4050 minutes.
Add white chocolate and sugar off
heat, stirring to melt chocolate and dis
solve sugar. Let cool. Remove vanilla pod.
Whisk cream in a large bowl to soft
peaks. Fold into porridge in 2 additions;
stir in half of almonds. Serve topped
with compote and remaining almonds.
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Pjoltergeist Restaurant plays

hip-hop, pours smart wines,
and serves Asian fusion mashups like king crab takoyaki
on cartoonish Moomin plates.
Mexican food in Oslo? Yes!
Taco Repblica does great
tacos using sustainable
ingredients. Fresh cheese
comes from a Norwegian dairy
farmer; a Mexican chef
and imported tortilla press
round out the experience.
No. 19s Jesper Hst is

serious about cocktails but
keeps his bar down to earth.
The Oslo Opera House has

something for everyone:
modern dance performances,
classical symphonies, pop
concerts. Tickets are relatively
inexpensive, but the building
itself is such a nice space, you
can just go there and read.
Oslomarka, the citys

surrounding forest, is great for
camping in summer, foraging
in autumn, and cross-country
skiing in winter. There are
public huts throughout, serving
everything from black currant
toddies to cinnamon buns.
For neat design objects

and books, I love the
Norwegian Centre for Design
and Architecture, or DogA.
Hotel Guldsmeden is
the only organic hotel chain
in Norway. Its breakfast of
fresh breads and fruit is reason
enough to book a room.
Reported by Joanna Sciarrino.

For more information,
see Sourcebook, page 132.
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P RO M OT I O N
Photograph by Michael Graydon + Nikole Herriott (cover). Apple, the Apple logo, and iPad are trademarks of Apple Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries. App Store is a service mark of Apple Inc. Amazon, Kindle, Kindle Fire, and
the Amazon Kindle logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates. NOOK Color and NOOK Tablet are trademarks of Barnes & Noble, Inc. Google Play is a trademark of Google Inc.
It Pairs
Perfectly
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edition of Bon Apptit and enjoy the digital
edition every month on your tablet for free.
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BON APPTIT
Statement Required by 39 U.S.C. 3685
showing the Ownership, Management and
Circulation of BON APPTIT,
published monthly (12 issues) for October 1,
2014. Publication No. 504-750.
Annual subscription price $24.00.
1. Location of known office of Publication is
4 Times Square, New York, NY 10036.
2. Location of the Headquarters or General
Business Offices of the Publisher is
3. The names and addresses of the Publisher,
Editor and Managing Editor are:
Publisher, Pamela Drucker Mann,
4 Times Square, New York, NY 10036;
Editor, Adam Rapoport,
4 Times Square, New York, NY 10036;
Managing Editor, Greg Ferro,
4. The owner is: Advance Magazine
Publishers Inc., published through its
Cond Nast division, 4 Times Square,
New York, New York 10036. Stockholder:
Directly or indirectly through intermediate
corporations to the ultimate corporate
parent, Advance Publications, Inc.,
950 Fingerboard Road, Staten Island,
NY 10305.
5. Known bondholders, mortgagees and other
security holders owning or holding
1 percent or more of total amount of bonds,
mortgages or other securities are: None.
6. Extent and nature of circulation
Average No. Copies
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each issue during
nearest to
preceding 12 months
filing date
a. Total No. Copies

1,662,111
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b. Paid Circulation
(1) Mailed Outside-County Paid
Subscriptions
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Including Sales Through Dealers
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h. Total
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1,647,175
91.57%
91.50%
j. Paid Electronic Copies

44,545
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i. Percent Paid
k. Total Paid Print Copies (line 15c)

+ Paid Electronic Copies
1,414,345
1,408,824
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+ Paid Electronic Copies
1,540,461
1,535,690
m. Percent Paid (Both Print & Electronic Copies)
91.81%
91.74%
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prep school
TECHNIQUES, TIPS, AND MORE FROM THE BON APPTIT TEST KITCHEN
FOOD STYLING BY ALISON ATTENBOROUGH. PROP STYLING BY BEVERLEY HYDE (OPENER).
1. Divide the
dough into thirds.
Roll out each piece
to a 12x10" rectangle,
brush with butter,
and sprinkle with a
third of the chocolatecinnamon filling.
2. Roll each rectangle
into a long rope
and pinch seams to
seal. Place side by
side, seam side down,
on a baking sheet;
pinch together the
three far ends.
3. Braid the strands,
pinching near ends
together and tucking
under when done.
Dont braid too
tightly, as the bread
will expand during
the second rise.
E A SY A S 1, 2, 3
FROM P. 101 The impressively decadent chocolate-cinnamon swirl in the babkallah, our babka-challah
hybrid, only looks complicated. Once the dough is done, this ultimate holiday bread is no harder to make
than a basic three-strand braid. Heres how to do it. CLAIRE SAFFITZ
PHOTOGRAPH BY PEDEN + MUNK
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PREP SCHOOL
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BIG ON FIGS
FROM P. 105 The
honeyed sweetness
of fresh figs is a
worthy indulgence.
When buying either
black- or brown-skin
varieties like Mission
(A) and Turkish (B),
or green-skinned such
as candy stripe (C),
look for unblemished
fruits and ripen them
at room temperature.
Figs are great eaten
out of hand but even
better tossed in
a salad, served with
cheese, stirred into
yogurt, or used as
a jelly substitute in
a PB&J. C.S.
SHIP SHAPE
FROM P. 86 Want to send some deliciousness to far-off friends? Our

holiday sweets are easy to ship. Stick lollipops in cellophane wrappers, put
marshmallows in airtight jars (packed in bubble wrap), and layer brittle
between sheets of parchment or wax paper in small boxes. Mail, and wait
for the thank-you notes to roll in. CARLA LALLI MUSIC
A.
DUCK!
FROM P. 92 Roasting a whole

bird can seem daunting (the size!
the fat!), but if youre armed with
a little knowledge, a burnished
roast duck is easily within reach.
AMIEL STANEK
S C O R E I T Theres a ton of wonderful
C.
fat layered between the skin and

meat of the duckmore than youll
want to eat. So its crucial to score
the breasts (1) and legs (2), slicing
through the skin and fat, stopping
before you hit the meat, to allow
some of that goodness to render out.
CHOOSE THE RIGHT BIRD
USE THAT RENDERED FAT
A Pekin (a.k.a. Long Island) duck is

best for roasting whole: It is the ideal
size, has sweet meat and good
fat content, and is widely available.
Store this liquid gold in the fridge

and use to roast potatoes and veg,
sear lean meats (to add richness),
and crisp up the ultimate fried eggs.
1 28 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M D EC E M B E R 20 14
The keyto
holiday
shopping?
Do as much
as possible
in advance.
Order your
centerpiece
meat from
your butcher
a month
ahead.
A week
before, hit
the market
for root
veg, garlic,
and onions.
B.
Brad Leone,
test kitchen manager
WorldMags.net
Check
staples that
may need
restocking,
especially
spices. That
mace from
seven years
ago? Toss it.
And dont
forget to
shop for the
morning
after: Youre
gonna need
syrup for that
French toast.
ILLUSTRATIONS: BRUCE HUTCHISON (DOUGH, DUCK); DENISE NESTOR (PORTRAIT)
Find neat-o
wrappers for
your lollies at
baking supply
stores or at
michaels.com.
TEST KITCHEN TALK
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ADVERTISEMENT
Shop online for an unparalleled vintage

photography collection. Exquisitely printed
and framed.
CondeNastCollection.com
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Images Cond Nast Archive. All Rights Reserved.
PREP SCHOOL
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A BEAUTIFUL
RIND
FROM P. 43
Parmesan broth is a
versatile player in our
kitchen, lending a
subtle yet funky depth
to many things. But
when we really want
it to flex its flavor
muscles, we use it as
the base for this classic
dish from Bologna. One
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JARREN VINK. PROP STYLING BY ALISON ROMAN.
slurp will have you

regretting every Parm
rind you ever tossed.
Capellini en Brodo
The pasta absorbs the flavor of
the broth as it cooks, and the
pasta starches thicken the liquid
to a lip-smacking consistency.
Cook 2 oz. capellini pasta and
2 cups Parmesan Broth (see
recipe, page 43) in a large skillet
over medium heat, stirring, until
pasta is al dente and broth is
reduced and thickened, about
3 minutes (if too thick, thin
with more broth). Divide pasta
between bowls; twist into tight
nests. Add broth and top each
with 1 large egg yolk, grated
Parmesan, thyme leaves, and
pepper. 2 servings
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
T H E STA R O N TO P
FROM P. 84 Upgrade from those Technicolor sugars in the back

of the cupboard. Vibrant toppers like edible dried flowers, festive
candied herbs, and colorful freeze-dried fruits dress up any
cookieespecially our Lavender Shortbread. Theyre easy to find,
too. Most of the items above can be bought in the baking or tea
aisles of well-stocked supermarkets. BELLE CUSHING
THE GOODIES (A) freeze-dried raspberries, (B) candied rosemary,
(C) dried cornflowers, (D) Douglas fir tips, (E) dried hibiscus,
(F) chopped pistachios.
WorldMags.net
sourcebook
WorldMags.net
recipe index DECEMBER 2014

BAKE THE COVER
MAIN COURSES
SIDE DISH
SHOPPING LIST
Lavender Shortbread
and Herbs p.84
SEAFOOD
Potato Gratin with

Goat Cheese p.114
CONDIMENTS,
MISCELLANEOUS
RAISE YOUR (SHOT) GLASS pp. 6064

BLIS WILD STEELHEAD ROE SMOKED CAVIAR $48 for 4 oz., blisgourmet.com
BROWNE TRADING COMPANY SALMON ROE $50 for 7 oz., brownetrading.com
TSAR NICOULAI SELECT CAVIAR $105 for 1 oz., TSAR NICOULAI NATURAL
BEET/SAFFRON WHITEFISH ROE $24 for 2 oz.; tsarnicoulai.com
Parmesan Broth p.43

Parsley Mayo p.62
BACK OF THE NAPKIN p. 134

ARMANI/CASA PLATES $175 each; 212-334-1271
DESSERTS
TRAVEL PLANNER
APPETIZERS
Beet-Filled Eggs p.64
Cured Arctic Char p.114
Herring in Mustard
Sour Cream on
Rye Bread p.114
Lefse p.114
Shrimp Olivier
p.62
Yeasted Blinis
p.64
BEVERAGES
Cashew Nut Nog
p.105
Charred Rosemary
Infused Vodka
p.62
The Jimmie Roosevelt
p.99
BREADS
Chocolate-Cinnamon
Babkallah p.101
Lefse p.114
Yeasted Blinis p.64
SALADS
Cabbage and
Apple Salad p.114
Celery Caesar Salad
p.16
Radicchio Salad with
Sourdough Dressing
p.46
Salt-and-Pepper Shrimp
p.50
Salt-Baked Salmon with
Citrus and Herbs p.95
MEAT
Beef and Squash Chili

p.44
Beer-Braised Pork Belly
p.117
Braised Veal Shanks
with Bacon-Parmesan
Crumbs p.95
Horseradish-and-ParsleyStuffed Rib-Eye Roast
p.92
Marmalade-Glazed Ham
p.98
Pomegranate-and-FennelGlazed Rack of Lamb
p.92
POULTRY
Roast Ducks with

Potatoes, Figs,
and Rosemary
p.92
Skillet Roast Chicken
with Fennel, Parsnips,
and Scallions p.52
Almond-Barley
Porridge with Fruit
Compote p.117
CANDY
Blood Orange and

Coconut Marshmallows
p.87
Chocolate Fudge with
Bourbon Sugar p.86
Golden Cashew-Curry
Brittle p.86
Saffron-Pear Lollipops
p.87
COOKIES
Lavender Shortbread
and Herbs p.84
MatchaWhite
Chocolate Sugar
Cookies p.86
PASTA
Capellini en Brodo p.131

Potato Gnocchi p.14
VEGETARIAN
Capellini en Brodo
p.131
Sweet Potato Curry
p.103
FOR NUTRITIONAL
INFORMATION FOR
THE RECIPES
IN THIS ISSUE,
GO TO BONAPPETIT
.COM/RECIPES
R.S.V.P. p. 16
FRANK & ALBERTS 2400 E. Missouri Ave., Phoenix; 602-381-7632;
arizonabiltmore.com
HOT JOY 1014 S. Alamo St., San Antonio; 210-368-9324; hotjoysa.com
ROLF AND DAUGHTERS 700 Taylor St., Nashville; 615-866-9897; rolfanddaughters.com
THE PROVIDERS p. 38
THE INN AT LITTLE WASHINGTON 439 Main St., Washington, VA; 540-675-3800;
theinnatlittlewashington.com
RAISE YOUR (SHOT) GLASS pp. 6064
KACHKA 720 S.E. Grand Ave., Portland, OR; 503-235-0059; kachkapdx.com
NAVIGATOR: MARRAKECH pp. 7076
33 RUE MAJORELLE 33 rue Yves Saint Laurent; +212-524-31-41-95;
33ruemajorelle.com
AKKAL 219 Quartier Industriel Sidi Ghanem, Route de Safi; +212-524-33-59-38
AL FASSIA 55 boulevard Zerktouni; +212-524-43-40-60; alfassia.com
AL JAWDA 11 rue de la Libert; +212-524-43-38-97
CAF CLOCK 224 Derb Chtouka; +212-524-37-83-67; marrakech.cafeclock.com
COOPRATIVE FMININE ARGANE EL KHEIR Douar Oualja, Route 207;
Tleta-El Henchane; +212-524-79-01-10; arganelkheir.com
DAR MOHA 81 rue Dar el Bacha; +212-524-38-64-00; darmoha.ma
DAVID BLOCH GALLERY 8 bis rue des Vieux Marrakchis; +212-524-45-75-95;
davidblochgallery.com
DOMAINE DU VAL DARGAN Route de Casablanca, Ounagha; +212-660-24-18-93;
valdargan.com
EL FENN 2 Derb Moullay Abdullah Ben Hezzian; +212-524-44-12-10;
el-fenn.com
FELLAH HOTEL Km. 13, Route de lOurika, Tassoultante, Canal Zarraba;
+212-525-06-50-00; fellah-hotel.com
GASTRO MK 14 Derb Sebaai; +212-661-09-61-27; maisonmk.com/dining.htm
JACK IS BACK 10 boulevard Oued al Makhazine; +212-524-43-38-90
JARDIN MAJORELLE Rue Yves Saint Laurent; +212-524-31-30-47; jardinmajorelle.com
KECHMARA 3 rue de la Libert; +212-524-43-35-26; kechmara.com
LA MAISON ARABE 1 Derb Assehb; +212-524-38-70-10; lamaisonarabe.com
LA MAMOUNIA Avenue Bab Jdid; +212-524-38-86-00; mamounia.com
LE GRAND CAF DE LA POSTE Boulevard el Mansour Eddahbi; +212-524-40-30-38
NOMAD 1 Derb Arjaan; +212-524-38-16-09; nomadmarrakech.com
ODYAFY 234 Avenue Mohammed V; +212-524-42-26-26; odyafy.com
ROYAL MANSOUR Rue Abou Abbas el Sebti; +212-529-80-80-80; royalmansour.com
See more of Little Dude on page 96.
INTO THE WOODS pp. 106117

OSLO:
DEN NORSKE OPERA & BALLETT Kirsten Flagstads Plass 1;
+47-21-42-21-21; operaen.no
FOOD STUDIO Storggata 36; +47-98-45-08-41; foodstudio.no
FUGLEN Universitetsgata 2; +47-22-20-08-80; fuglen.com
HOTEL GULDSMEDEN Parkveien 78; +47-23-27-40-00; guldsmedenhotels.com
MAAEMO Schweigaardsgate 15B; +47-91-99-48-05; en.maaemo.no
NO. 19 BAR Mollergata 23; +47-48-02-06-25; no-19.no
NORWEGIAN CENTRE FOR DESIGN AND ARCHITECTURE Hausmanns gate 16;
+47-23-29-28-70; doga.no
OSLO VINTERPARK Tryvannsveien 64; +47-40-46-27-00; oslovinterpark.no
PJOLTERGEIST RESTAURANT Rosteds gate 15B; +47-40-23-77-88;
pjoltergeis.blogspot.com
SMALHANS Waldemar Thranesgate 10; +47-22-69-60-00; smalhans.no
TACO REPBLICA Torggata 30; +47-40-05-76-65; tacorepublica.no
TIM WENDELBOE Grnersgate 1; +47-40-00-40-62; timwendelboe.no
BON APPTIT IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT 2014 COND NAST. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 59, NO. 12. Bon Apptit (ISSN 0006-6990)
is published monthly by Cond Nast, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: The Cond Nast Building, 4 Times Square, New York, NY 10036. S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles
H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg, Jr., President; David E. Geithner, Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional
mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 123242885-RT0001. Canada Post: Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box
874, Station Main, Markham, ON L3P 8L4. POSTMASTER: SEND ALL UAA TO CFS. (SEE DMM 707.4.12.5); NON-POSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: SEND ADDRESS CORRECTIONS TO Bon Apptit, P.O. Box 37614, Boone,
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1 3 2 BO N A P P E T I T.C O M D EC E M B E R 20 14
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PHOTOGRAPH BY PEDEN + MUNK. PROP STYLING BY BEVERLEY HYDE.
IMMACULATE CONFECTION pp. 7887

CRAFTSMAN AND WOLVES 746 Valencia St., San Francisco; 415-913-7713;
craftsman-wolves.com
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back of the napkin
PROMISES, PROMISES
Giorgio Armani
BUON NATALE!
Classic Italian
desserts like
panettone are
simple and
sophisticated.
After more than 40 years in fashion, Giorgio

Armani still enjoys a top perch on the sartorial food
chain. (Literallythe designer owns 16 restaurants
and cafs, plus countless clothing boutiques.)
But despite his global reach and billionaire status,
hes not one for fussy holiday ftes. Rather, he
spends Christmas at home in Milan, where his
family dines on the traditional dishes of his postwar
childhood in Reggio Emilia: stuffed chicken with
mustard, and tortelli alla piacentina smothered in
butter and Parm, just like his mother made. The
tortelli demand a delicate hand, he says, because
you have to take them out of the boiling water one
by one. Also obligatory in his house: dolce, which
usually take the form of panettone cut into
small pieces and served with cream or chocolate.
And given that everything he touches seems
to end up bearing his name, its only fitting that he
rings in the New Year with a good white wine or
his signature Armani Martini (gin, sake, cranberry,
and lime) in hand. Cin cin. TORY HOEN
Panettone
and
presents,
drawn in
Milan on
September
23, 2014
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PHOTOGRAPH
B Y M E I KO TA K E C H I A R Q U I L L O S
PROP STYLING BY BOBBI LIN. PLATES COURTESY ARMANI/CASA. ILLUSTRATION BY MAT WILLIAMS.
FOR PRODUCT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
Ive never made a resolution about

food and drink. Instead, I just follow a
path of moderation in everything.
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> Crackling Glazed Ham P.

Challah + Babka = Genius P. 101

How to keep all

The Years Best Cookbooks P. 54

BON APPTIT VOLUME 59 NUMBER 12

Blow minds this

The cooking. The

THE BON APPTIT

Celeb chef stamps,

A caviar- and vodkafueled New Years

Adam Sachss mad

Falling for the

At the holiday tavola

Reader requests and

PHOTOGRAPH BY ANDERS OVERGAARD

WHAT DO YOU WANT

Assistant Managing Editor FAYE CHIU MOSLEY

Senior Web Editor CAREY POLIS

Vice President & Publisher

PAMELA DRUCKER MANN

INTEGRATED MARKETING & CREATIVE SERVICES

Marketing Coordinator HANNAH MICLEY

PUBLISHED BY COND NAST

Senior Vice PresidentOperations & Strategic Sourcing DAVID ORLIN

COND NAST MEDIA GROUP

PUBLISHED AT 4 TIMES SQUARE, NEW YORK, NY 10036

Those submitting manuscripts, photographs,

Knead potatoes in a bowl

FOOD STYLING BY SUSAN SPUNGEN. PROP STYLING BY AMY WILSON.

A couple Decembers ago, my wife, Simone, and

Want us to get a restaurant recipe for you?

READERS SOUND OFF

A: Squid ink is the

DEAR BON APPTIT, LAST YEAR WE HAD A GIRLS WEEKEND

CELERY CAESAR SALAD

Preheat oven to 400. Toss bread

I doubt seriously that any

Rolf and Daughters,

Absolutely no. Gives me a

Arsenic is naturally occurring, but I wont add it

WHERE GREAT TASTE BEGINS

Follow these 12 gift-giving

PHOTOGRAPHS BY DANNY KIM

$410; call 212-4539880 to order

Dutch salt shaker

Brass bread knife

Metal trivet set

Often the words gift basket conjure images of raffia,

Each delivery includes

Oliva Elit 8"

Whats better than getting a presentin

Last Christmas, I gave my wife an empty bottle of Japanese whisky. Worst

$30 for 3.6 oz.;

$25 for .7 oz.;

$7$8 for 16 oz.;

$17 for 2.2 lb.;

$25 for 1 oz.;

$32 for 250 ml;

$10 for 3.5 oz.;

$5 for 12; kaufmannmercantile.com

Stockings dont have to be stuffed with

Pallars Solsona Navaja

$10 for 4 oz.;

Combo pizza wheel