Sofia Practical Guide

Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
SOFIA
January-March 2009
Including
BOROVETS
Winter Fun
Down the slopes of

Vitosha and Borovets
Metal Winter
Headbang till springtime

No 13
www.inyourpocket.com
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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Contents
Message from the Mayor

Contents
Arriving in Sofia
Touching down
The Basics
Essential reading for those not sure where

they are
History
How the past has shaped the present

Introducing Sofia
Mayor of Sofia
Keeping in touch
10
Let your Mum know how you are
Culture & Events

12
This winter, mostly heavy metal!
The Bulgarian symbol - Tsarevets
Famous Bulgarians Khan Krum and Ralitsa
Vassileva
Pablo Picassos paintings are in town
Where to stay
18
Places to recharge the batteries and catch up
on your beauty sleep
Dining & Nightlife
Restaurants
25
Where to wine and dine
Cafs
34
Feed the addiction
Nightlife
35
Enough to keep any pub crawlers on their hands
and knees
Dear visitor,
Welcome to Sofia.
Our city has ancient and intriguing history. It is a capital, rich in
cultural monuments, dating from
antiquity to present day. The
constantly renewed face of the
city is true to its motto: It grows,
but never ages.
If you are visiting our capital for
the first time, you will certainly
enjoy seeing the Church of St. Sofia, the Alexander Nevski
Memorial Church, the Rotunda of St. George and the
Boyana Church from the 11th century.
You can explore the collections of the National History Museum, the Archeological Museum, the National
Art Gallery, as well as other museums and galleries,
throughout the city.
Most of Sofias main sights are centrally situated and
can easily be visited on foot.
If you have already been here before, now you will discover new and exciting places to visit; great restaurants,
clubs, shops and galleries, which will undoubtedly enrich
your stay in Sofia. I sincerely wish you a wonderful time
in our capital city.
Boyko Borisov
Mayor of Sofia
What to see
43
Essential Sofia
Sofia districts - Boyana and Dragalevtsi
Mount Vitosha
Getting around
54
Making sense of transport
Directory
Shopping
Go on a spree
Health & Lifestyle
Prevention is better than cure
Sports
Get this six-pack
Business
Oligarchs anonymous
58
Borovets
71
62
65
68
Bulgarias oldest winter resort
Maps & Index

Street index
Index
City map
City centre map
Bulgaria map
Sofia In Your Pocket
74
74
75
76
78
sofia.inyourpocket.com
foreWord
Basically people are two types: chilling and freezing. To know
them, you just need a winter, some snow and free time. You
have all these, so you are either: Type A - you have aching
pains, as well as a pair of skis, or a snowboard up on the
wardrobe and you are happy to eagerly spend most of your
holiday money just to go up the darn mountains; And type B
with a closet, filled with bear-skin thick coats and scarves
and thinking of ice only in terms of cooling the booze?
All type A-s, who have already taken this issue out of their
pockets, can jump right to page 71 and learn some very
useful information about Bulgarias oldest winter resort
Borovets. It happens to be quite close to Sofia and offers
good accommodation, cool places to eat and party, as well
as long ski-runs, with a several degrees of difficulty, known
as one of the best in the land. Vitosha Mountain, Sofias
extinct volcano also offers some thrills and rides, including
a superbly lit night ski-run for all those who hate early to
bed, early to rise.
Of course, winter fun is not just for mountain slope fanatics,
you can shred some ice on the skate-rinks in Sofia (see more
on page 66), or, being the B-type, as in I think I need a quick
shot to warm me up, boozing and partying or just bar fly,
you can look around for some indoor amusement.
This winter, Sofia will host some furious metal shows and
if names like Sepultura, Sodom, Kreator, Lordi and even
softer sounding Marillion and The Rasmus, are somewhere
in your play list, then you will have the chance to meet them
in person, on stage (see more on page 16).
For all those art fans, or even for all human beings, a close
encounter with an artist as brilliant as Picasso can be pretty
mind-bending. An exhibition of his works is in the National
Gallery of Foreign Art until the middle of March (see more on
page 17). You can also catch a last glimpse at the projects
of some of the biggest stadia and theatres in Communist
Russia.
As usual, we keep you informed about everything new and
interesting in Sofia. You can learn about the suburban neighbourhoods Boyana and Dragalevtsi, known for their huge
mansions and big shiny cars, or find out about the Tsarevets
fortress in Veliko Tarnovo, which used to be the heart of the
Second Bulgarian Kingdom.
Speaking of history, our famous Bulgarians are Khan Krum,
the merciless ruler and Ralitsa Vassileva long time news
presenter on CNN.
And of course, on the First of March all Bulgarians and their
welcomed guests should put on their martenitsas, so we
can all celebrate the long awaited Springtime!

Mladost 4, bl. 473, vh. 2-3,
pristroika, parter
(opposite the Business Park)
1715 Sofia, Bulgaria
tel.: + 359 2 881 01 02
fax: + 359 2 881 53 32
sofia@inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1312-742X
Discover Bulgaria Ltd.
Printed by Delta High Print EAD
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Editorial
Copyright notice
Editor-in-chief Steven MacAulay

Assistant Editor Vesela Lyudskanova, Mitko
Nikolov
Research Mitko Nikolov, Vesela
Lyudskanova, Maya Kozareva
Layout & Design Krassimir Apostolov
Photos Veronica de Boer, Nikola Apostolov,
Vladimir Hadzhiev
Cover Veronica de Boer
Text and photos copyright Discover Bulgaria Ltd. Bulgaria In Your Pocket 2008.
Maps copyright cartographer. All rights
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Sales & Circulation

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arrIvInG In sofIa
Relax. There seem to be more signs, written in the
English language on major roads, and there are more and
more Bulgarians, who feel confident to speak English.
After all, they have been watching American subbed
movies for years, and even some gas-pumping people
have university degrees. The more you get stuck in traffic
jams and the harder it is to park, then you must be in the
city centre.
By plane
Sofia International Airport (Letishte Sofia), 10km east
of the city centre, is divided into two terminals - the aging
Terminal 1 and the recently opened Terminal 2. The arrivals halls at both terminals boast cafs, car-hire and taxi
counters, information desk, ATMs and exchange bureaux
(although beware that rates here are not particularly
generous, so its best to only change enough cash for immediate survival).
Getting to town: avoid the taxi touts, thronging the arrivals
halls and head instead for the official ranks of yellow taxis
parked outside (OK Supertrans and Taxi S Express). The
fare into town shouldnt cost more than 16Lv (E8).
Alternatively, you can catch the bus - No 84 from Terminal
1 or No 284 from Terminal 2. Both run to Orlov Most (C-5)
on the eastern fringes of the city centre, departing roughly
every 10-15 minutes between 05:00 and 23:00. Tickets
cost 1Lv from the kiosks beside the bus stop, or from the
driver. You also have to buy a separate ticket for each bulky
piece of luggage; otherwise, you run the risk of being fined
by ticket inspectors.
By train
Sofias Central Station (Tsentralna gara), open 05:00
- 24:00, is an unwelcoming concrete hangar 20-minute
walk north of the city centre. Facilities include left-luggage,
money exchange kiosks, ATMs, bars and fast-food outlets.
Beware of pickpockets who hang around the station and the
adjoining underpass. There are coin-operated left-luggage
lockers in the basement (2Lv for 24hrs), and a left-luggage
office (garderob) just off the eastern side of the main ticket
hall (open 06:00 - 23:00; 2Lv per item).
Cheapest way of getting to town is to hop on tram No 1
or 7 (buy ticket from kiosks or from the driver - 1 Lv) from
opposite the station forecourt - head for the subterranean
underpass to find the platform. Either of these will take
you to pl. Sveta Nedelya, well placed for central Sofias
amenities - get off when you see the Sheraton Hotel looming up on your left.
The taxi drivers hovering outside the station are an unpredictable bunch; check that their meters are switched on
or agree a flat fare before setting off; otherwise walk 200
metres east to the bus station (see below) where the taxi
firms are more reputable.
By bus
Most international and domestic buses arrive at the
spanking new Central Bus Station (Tsentralna Avtogara),
200m east of the Central Railway Station. Compared to
other points of arrival the bus station is comfortingly
civilized, with clean toilets, plenty of shops and cafs, a
pharmacy, and an ATM. There is a 24-hour left-luggage
office (2-3Lv depending on size of bag) in the main ticket
hall.
To get into the centre of town from here, stroll either south
down bul. Maria Luiza (15-20 min), or walk 200m west to
pick up tram No 1 or 7 outside the train station (see above).
There is a taxi booking office just beside the main exit.
Street smarts
Street
Square
Boulevard
Highway
Bridge
(.)
(.)
(.)
Ulitsa (ul.)
Ploshtad (pl.)
Boulevard (bul.)
Magistrala
Most
Some international buses arrive at the Trafik-Market terminal mid-way between the main train and bus stations. As this
is nothing more than a parking lot bordered by ticket offices
and caf kiosks, youll have to walk to the main stations on
either side to find any facilities.
By car
Regardless of your point of entry, you deserve plaudits for
being so brave. The first thing you need to do is reduce your
speed to avoid the many police checks on incoming roads.
Follow the lead of other cars (not the ones who overtake
and temporarily drive on the wrong side of the road) and
get patiently in line should you encounter a traffic jam,
which are unfortunately becoming more and more frequent,
especially during rush hour. Parking can be difficult to find
in the city, and you should be aware that the blue zones
cost 1Lv per hour. Failure to pay can lead to clamping and
your car being towed away after 2 hours. Parking vouchers are sold on the spot by parking attendants or you can
just send SMS to 1302 with your registration number (for
Bulgarian and transit license plate numbers), and you will
be notified when the time is up, giving you the chance to
pay for the next hour.
BOOK ON: +359 2 981 46 26,

reservations@europcar.bg, www.europcar.bg
Free delivery / collection
The Sofia
telephone code is: 02
January - March 2009
BasICs
Alcohol
Visas
The archetypal national tipple is rakiya, which usually comes

as either grozdova rakiya (grape brandy) or slivova (plum).
Its usually served up in 50g or 100g shots and is consumed
alongside salad or some other form of nibble wait-staff will
consider you peculiar if you dont order at least something to
snack on while youre slugging down spirits. As far as beer is
concerned, Bulgaria produces several palatable if unexciting
lagers Zagorka, Shumensko and Kamenitsa are the most
reliable of the big brands. Much more impressive are the dry
red wines, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon from Svishtov and
Oryahovitsa, Merlot from Stambolovo, Gumza from Novo Selo,
Mavrud from Asenovgrad, and Melnik from the village of same
name. The Chardonnays and Traminers from Veliki Preslav are
among the best of the whites.
Citizens of the EU, Australia, Canada, New Zealand and the

USA can stay in the country visa-free for 90 days. Nationals
of other countries should contact the Bulgarian embassies or
consulates in their home countries about visa arrangements.
Note that visas cannot be obtained at the border.
If you wish to extend your stay beyond the 90-day period you
should apply for a residence permit from the Immigration
Office, bul. Maria Luiza 48, tel. 982 37 64. Open 09:00
17:00. Closed Sat & Sun.
Customs
If you are travelling within the EU, those over 18 can now take
10L of spirits, 90L of wine and 110L of beer. Most countries
will not allow more than 200 cigarettes from Bulgaria.
Youre not allowed to export antiques, artworks or coins
of numismatic value unless you have a permit issued by
the Ministry of Culture. Due to fears about child trafficking,
travellers with small children may be asked for documentary
evidence of their parental relationship before being allowed
to leave the country.
Electricity
Bulgaria runs on a 220 volt electricity supply (so some
visitors will need to bring a transformer). Standard continental two-prong plugs are used, so others will need to
furnish themselves with an adaptor, if they want to use their
hairdryer/phone/ charger/laptop.
Smoking
Cafs, bars and restaurants are required by law to provide an
area for non-smokers. In practice however this will probably
consist of one or two tables, surrounded on all sides by
nicotine addicts happily puffing away.
Tourist information
The National Tourist Information Centre B-3,
pl. Sveta Nedelya 1, tel. 933 58 45, fax 989 69

39, info@bulgariatravel.org, www.bulgariatravel.
org. The Tourist Information Centre has undergone
a far-reaching facelift in the past few months, and
now constitutes an inviting and altogether quite chic
info-boutique, equipped with designer bar-stools for
tourists to perch on while helpful staff distribute free
maps or search their databases for the answers to all
sorts of queries. They arent authorized to make hotel
reservations on tourists behalf, but they do distribute
well-informed locally-published guides like this one.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Zig Zag Holidays B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski
20B (entrance from ul. Lavele), tel. 980 51 02, fax
980 32 00, info@zigzagbg.com, www.zigzagbg.
com. The staff at this private travel agency, specializing
in individual and alternative holidays are a mine of invaluable information - be aware however that they charge a
5Lv consultancy fee (which is deducted from the cost
of any arrangements you book through them). QOpen
08:30 - 19:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Key phrases
The following is a list of some of the most common words
and phrases a person is likely to need.
Hello
Goodbye
Please
Youre welcome
Thank you
Excuse me
Yes / No
Cheers
I dont understand
I dont know
Do you speak English?
Whats up?
Good morning!
Good afternoon / evening!
Good night!
Have you got?
Where can I buy?
How many / how much?
Good / bad
Expensive / cheap
New / old
Hot / cold
Forgive me!
You are a very pretty girl
Zdravei
Dovizhdane
Molya
Pak zapoviadaite
Blagodarya
Izvinete
Da / Ne
Nazdrave
Ne razbiram
Ne znam
Govorite li angliiski?
Kakvo stava?
Dobro utro!
Dobur den / vecher!
Leka nosht!
Imate li?
Kude moga da kupya?
Kolko / Kolko struva?
Dobro / losho
Skupo / evtino
Novo / staro
Toplo / studeno
Prostete mi!
Vie ste mnogo krasivo
momiche
You are a very attractive man Vie ste mnogo
privlekatelen mazh
May I have the bill?
Mozhe li smetkata?
No offence, but its too
Ne se obizhdayte, no
expensive for me
e tvarde skapo za men
Days of week
Monday
Ponedelnik
Tuesday
Vtornik
Wednesday
Sryada
Thursday
Chetvurtak
Friday
Petuk
Saturday
Subota
Sunday
Nedelya
Numbers
1
edno
2
dve
3
tri
4
chetiri
5
pet
6
shest
7
sedem
8
osem
9
devet
10
deset
100
sto
1000
hilyada
BasICs
Roads & Traffic police
Most Bulgarians turn into psychopaths as soon as they get
behind the wheel of a car, although given the state of the road
network one can hardly blame them. Cow-sized potholes,
suicidal pedestrians and drunken cyclists riding on the wrong
side of the road are just some of the things to look out for
and with hazards like these you need to swerve around like
a stunt driver in order to stay in one piece.
Streets in central Sofia can be clogged with traffic. Road
signage is haphazard and street names are almost exclusively
in Cyrillic, so you need to research your route on a map before
you set off. Finding a place to park can be a nightmare. A lot socalled blue-zone parking areas are run by private companies.
Parking vouchers (1Lv/hour) are sold on the spot by parking
attendants. In order to drive on Bulgarian roads outside Sofia
youll need to purchase a vignette which must be displayed in
the windscreen. You can get these from border crossings, all
post offices and OMV and Shell gas stations. For a car or SUV
vignettes cost 10Lv for one week, 25Lv for one month, and
67Lv for a year. Speed limits are 120km/hr on main highways,
90km/hr on minor roads and 50km/hr in urban areas.
Talking on a mobile phone while driving is strictly forbidden,
as is driving under the influence of more than 0.5/1000 of
alcohol. Foreigners are well advised to obey the rules of the
road even if they see locals behaving otherwise: the police
rarely speak English and are unlikely to show any lenience.
Police checks on major highways are common, especially
when entering or leaving Sofia at the weekend. Policeman are
allowed to charge on-the-spot fines up to 50 Lv.
Basic data
Territory: Bulgaria takes up 110, 550 km2 of land. It
shares borders with Turkey, Greece, Macedonia, Serbia
and Romania. The country is bordered to the east by a
354km-long stretch of Black Sea coastline.
Rivers: The main rivers in the country are Danube,
Maritsa, Mesta, Strouma, Iskar, Yantra. There are more
than 600 warm and cold mineral springs.
Highest Point: Musala (2925m), south of Sofia in the
Rila mountains.
Population of Bulgaria: 7,385,367 (July 2006 est.)
Population of Sofia: 1,377,531 (July 2006 est.)
Foreigners in Bulgaria: 60 000 (July 2006 est.)
Foreign tourists per year: approximately 6,5 million.
Local time: Bulgaria is part of the Eastern European Time
Zone (GMT +2); when it is noon in Sofia it is 11:00 in Berlin,
10:00 in London and 05:00 in New York City.
Religion: Traditional religion in the Republic of Bulgaria
is Eastern Orthodox Christianity. Orthodox 85%, Muslim
8%, others 7%.
Market values
How do costs compare to back home? Here is handy list
of local prices to give you an idea.
Leva
Euro
Loaf of white bread
1.00
0.50
Snickers bar
0.80
0.40
Litre of vodka
40.00
20.00
Bottle of local beer
2.00
1.00
20 Marlboros
5.00
2.50
Exchange rates (as of January 2009): US$1 - 1.40Lv;
1 1.95Lv; 1 2.08Lv
The Cyrillic Alphabet
a
b
v
g
d
e
zh
z
i
y
k
l
m
n
o
p
r
s
t
u
f
h
ts
ch
sh
sht
a
softens o
yu
ya
as in
as in
as in
as in
as in
as in
as s in
as in
as in
as in
as in
as in
as in
as in
as in
as in
as in
as in
as in
as in
as in
as in
as in
as in
as in
as in
as in
as in
as in
as in
arm
bath
van
go
dog
let
measure
zoo
bit
yoke
keep
like
map
not
opera
pen
run
sit
tap
rule
fan
hand
cuts
church
short
smashed
but
yoga
you
yard
National holidays
January 1: New Years Day (Nova godina)
March 3: Liberation Day (Liberation from the Ottoman
rule) (Denyat na osvobozhdenieto)
April 19: Easter (Velikden)
May 1: Labour Day (Denyat na truda)
May 6: St. Georges Day (Gergyovden; Day of the Bulgarian Army)
May 24: St. St. Cyril and Methodius (Sveti Sveti Kiril
i Metodyi; Day of the Cyrillic Alphabet and Bulgarian
Education and Culture)
September 6: Unification Day (Saedinenieto; marking the unification of Bulgaria and Eastern Rumelia in
1885)
September 22: Independence Day (Denyat na nezavisimostta)
December 24,25,26: Christmas (Koleda)
Important phone numbers

Fire: 160 / 112
Ambulance: 150 / 112
Police: 166 / 112
Road assistance: 146
Anti-corruption unit: 982 22 22, www.nocorr.mvr.bg
Telephone information: 11800
Breakdown Service: 91146 or 146 if youre calling from
a Bulgarian mobile
HIstory
History
Antiquity In antiquity, Bulgaria, the land of Orpheus and
Spartacus, belongs to the Kingdom of Macedonia.
4th century BC The territory of contemporary Bulgaria is
conquered by the Macedonians, lead by Philip II and his son
Alexander the Great. During the first century AD these lands
become Roman provinces.
632 The History of Bulgaria as a separate country begins
with the establishment of Old Great Bulgaria (also known
as Onoguria).
681 First Bulgarian Kingdom is established by Khan
Asparuh.
865 Bulgaria becomes a Christian country. Tsar Boris I accepts Orthodox Christianity.
9th-10th centuries The Golden Age period under the rule of
Tsar Simeon the Great. The Slavic writing is officially accepted
throughout the country. Literature schools, imposing temples
and monasteries are built. Bulgaria has an outlet on three
seas - the Black sea, Aegean Sea and the Adriatic. The capital
is moved to Veliki Preslav, which during that period could be
compared with the beauty and glory of Constantinople.
1018 Bulgaria falls under Byzantine rule until 1185.
1185 The Second Bulgarian Kingdom (1185-1396) is founded
after two brothers, Asen and Peter. The capital city of the new
kingdom becomes Veliko Turnovo.
12th-13th centuries Under the rule of the Tsar Kaloyan (11971207) and Tsar Ivan Asen II (1218-1241), Bulgaria becomes
a dominant power in the Balkans.
1393 The Ottomans occupy the Bulgarian capital Veliko
Turnovo after a three-month siege.
1396 The Kingdom of Vidin is occupied, bringing the Second
Bulgarian Empire and Bulgarian independence to an end.
14th-18th centuries By the end of the 14th century, the
Turks control all of Bulgaria. Ottoman rule continues for five
centuries.
18th century The Age of the Bulgarian National Revival begins.
In spite of the resistance of the central Turkish authorities and
the Greek clergy (the so-called phanariots), the struggle for an
independent church, the publication of books and, later on, of
periodicals in the Bulgarian language, the establishment of lay
Bulgarian schools and the official recognition of the language
and culture, become real steps to the revival of the nation.
One important landmark was the writing of the Slav-Bulgarian
History (1762) by monk Paissi of Hilendar.
1876 Bulgarian revolutionaries launch the April Uprising at
Koprivshtitsa. The Turks suppress it with unprecedented
brutality. About 15,000 Bulgarians are massacred at Plovdiv
and 58 villages destroyed. Outraged European allies come to
Bulgarias rescue in the late 1870s. Russia, the chief saviour,
suffers 200,000 casualties in the conflict.
1877-1878 The Russian-Turkish war leads to the liberation
of Bulgaria from the Ottoman Empire.
March 1878 The Treaty of San Stefano provides for an
independent Bulgarian state, which spans the geographical
regions of Moesia, Thrace and Macedonia.
July 1878 The Treaty of Berlin, under the supervision of Otto
von Bismarck of Germany and Benjamin Disraeli of Britain,
splits Bulgaria into three parts: an independent Principality of
Bulgaria based in Sofia, the autonomous Ottoman province
of Eastern Roumelia; and Macedonia, which remains under
direct Ottoman rule.
April 1879 The Turnovo Constitution is passed by the First
Grand National Assembly.
June 1879 Alexander Battenberg becomes prince of Bulgaria,
and Sofia becomes the capital of the new Bulgarian state.
September 1885 Eastern Rumelia declares union with
Bulgaria.
1887 A coup replaces Alexander Battenberg with Ferdinand
of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha.
Recent History
In June 2001, the Bulgarian monarchy makes an
unprecedented comeback when former king Simeon II is
elected prime minister. Unable to ease economics hardships for the majority, however, he too sees his popularity plummet after a few months in power. In the same
election, the countrys Turkish minority is represented
in the government for the first time, and the president
encourages Bulgarians to be more tolerant of TurkishBulgarians. Progress continues under President Georgi
Parvanov, albeit slower than most hope. Membership of
NATO is granted in 2004, and entry into the European
Union follows in 2007.
July 27, 2005 the Bulgarian Parliament chose Sergey
Stanishev of the Bulgarian Socialist Party as the new
Prime Minister in a coalition government with the Movement for Rights and Freedoms. August 15, 2005 the
BSP and National Movement Simeon II formed a stable
government, along with the Movement for Rights and
Freedoms. This grand coalition comprises the three
largest parties. This coalition has a large majority in
parliament with 169 of the 240 deputies.
September 1908 Ferdinand upgrades Bulgaria from principality to kingdom and declares himself Tsar.
1912-1913 The Nationalist Prime Minister, Ivan Geshov,
forms an alliance with Greece and Serbia to attack the
Ottomans and to drive them out of Macedonia and Thrace.
The Balkan Wars are sparking. The alliance soon fall out,
with Greeks and Serbs expelling Bulgarian forces from
Macedonia, and then dividing up the spoils.
1915-1918 Bulgaria joins the German side in World War I. A
Serb-French-British offensive in Macedonia causes Bulgarias
collapse. Ferdinand abdicates in favour of son Boris III.
1919 Elections are won by the Peasant party of Aleksandar
Stamboliyski promising widespread social change.
1923-1934 Democratically elected governments are
toppled via coups that bring authoritarian regimes to
power.
1941 Bulgaria enters World War II on the side of the
Rome-Berlin-Tokyo Axis. The country is the only ally of
Hitlers Germany which did not allow the killing of its Jewish
citizens. It was thanks to king Boris III and to the Bulgarian
governments that no hostilities are waged in the countrys
territory.
1944 After World War II, as a result of the Yalta agreements
between the Great Powers, Bulgaria ends up in the field of
influence of the Soviet Union.
1953-1989 Years of the communist rule of Todor Zhivkov
who headed both the party and the state.
10 November 1989 Under pressure from domestic and
international circumstances Todor Zhivkov is forced to
resign. Bulgaria once again takes the road of democratic
development.
7 December 1989 The Union of Democratic Forces (SDS) is
formed as a unification of 13 opposition organisations.
June 1990 First free parliamentary elections.
12 July 1991 A new democratic Constitution is passed.
13 October 1991 First free local authorities elections.
1992 First free presidential elections. Zhelyu Zhelev is
elected head of state.
3 November 1996 Petar Stoyanov, proposed by the SDS,
is elected with President of the Republic of Bulgaria with a
landslide majority.
19 April 1997 The Parliamentary elections are won by the
Democratic Forces United. A government is formed headed
by Ivan Kostov as Prime-Minister. Bulgaria starts on the road
of genuine democratic reforms.
IntrodUCInG sofIa
The history of Sofia,
Bulgarias capital and largest city, spans thousands
of years from antiquity to
modern times. Throughout its
existence, the city has always
been a commercial, industrial,
cultural and economic centre
of the Balkans region. Sofia
has always been well known
for its mineral resources,
neighbouring mountains and
historical sights.
Mayor of Sofia
Mr. Boyko Borissov is the leader of Sofia City and also unofficial leader of of the GERB party Citizens for European
Development of Bulgaria. A no-nonsense figure hardly
ever spotted with necktie. He today is without doubt the
most popular person in Bulgarian politics. We owe him
special thanks for the speedy reconstruction of the over
trafficked Sofia ring road, soon to be THE place where
local Porsche and Ferrari owners will put their pedal to the
metal if no firm speed control measures are built-in.
Antiquity
Sofia is originally a Thracian settlement called Serdica,
named after the Thracian tribe Serdi that had populated it.
4th century BC For a short period the city is possessed by
Philip of Macedonia and his son Alexander the Great.
29 AD Sofia is conquered by the Romans and renamed Ulpia
Serdica. It becomes a municipium, or centre of an administrative region, during the reign of Emperor Trayan (98-117).
447 The city is destroyed by the Huns, but is rebuilt by Byzantine Emperor Justinian and renamed Triaditsa. Although
also often destroyed by the Slavs, the town remains under
Byzantine dominion until 809.
Middle Ages
809 Sofia becomes part of the First Bulgarian Kingdom during
the reign of Khan Krum.
1018 The city again falls to the Byzantine Empire.
12th-14th centuries Sofia is a thriving centre of trade and
crafts. It is renamed Sofia (meaning wisdom in Greek) in
1376 after the Church of St Sophia. However, it is called both
Sofia and Sredets until the 16th century, when the new
name gradually replaced the old one.
Ottoman rule
1382 Sofia is conquered by the Ottoman sultan Murad I.
Many Ottoman buildings emerge during the period. Very
few of them have survived, including only a single mosque,
Banya Bashi. The Ottoman rule saw a major demographic
growth, as the city grew from a total population of 6,000
(1620s) through 55,000 (middle 17th century) to 70-80,000
(18 th century data from foreign travellers, albeit possibly
exaggerated).
16th century Sofia is a thriving trade centre inhabited by
Turks, Bulgarians, Romaniote, Ashkenazi, and Sephardic
Jews, Armenians, Greeks and Ragusan merchants. During
the next century the citys population included even Albanians
and Persians.
17th century The Vatican establishes the Bishopric of Sofia

for Ottoman subjects belonging to the Catholic millet in
Rumelia, which existed until 1715 when most Catholics had
emigrated to Habsburg or Tsarist territories.
1878 Sofia is liberated by Russian forces in 1878, during the
Russian-Turkish War (1877-1878)
1879 The city becomes the capital of the autonomous
Principality of Bulgaria, which becomes Kingdom of Bulgaria
in 1908.
1900 The City Council approves the emblem of Sofia and
the motto It Grows but Does not Age.
1925 The gravest act of terrorism in Bulgarian history, the
St Nedelya Church assault, is carried out by the Bulgarian Communist Party, claiming the lives of 150 and injuring
another 500.
World War II
Sofia is bombed by Allied aircraft in late 1943 and early 1944,
as well as later occupied by the Soviet Union.
Bulgarias regime, which has allied the countr y wi th
Nazi Germany, is overthrown and Sofia becomes capital
of the Communist-ruled Peoples Republic of Bulgaria
(19441989).
Totalitarian regime
(9 September 1944-10 November 1989) During the
years of communism, Sofia becomes the nations major
economic, academic and cultural centre. From its years
of socialist growth, however, the capital inherited a great
deal of problems, which are at present the priorities of the
democratically - elected council of Sofia.
1992 In honour of the celebration of St. Sofia the Martyr, the
Government chose September 17th as the Day of Sofia. The
flag of Sofia Municipality is also consecrated on that day. The
Day of Sofia is also celebrated like the Day of saints Vyara,
Nadezhda and Lyubov.
According to non official information nowadays Sofia has a
population about 3 million people. Most of them come to the
capital for work and business opportunities.
10
KeePInG In toUCH
Couriers
City Express C-3, ul. Gladston 58, tel. 912 12, www.
city-express.com. QOpen 09:30 - 20:00.
DHL G-9, ul. Prodan Tarakchiev 10, tel. 070 017 700.,
sofcustcare@dhl.com, www.dhl.bg. Q Open 09:00 17:30, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Direct F-7, ul. Rayna Knyaginya 7, tel. 928 98 98, direct@direct.bg, www.direct.bg. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30.
Flying Cargo Bulgaria Ltd. (FedEx) G-9, ul. Nedelcho
Bonchev 10, tel. 080 011 000, fax 973 13 66, www.flyingcargo-bg.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
In Time /UPS/ G-9, ul. Nedelcho Bonchev 41, tel. 960
99, fax 960 98 99, intime@intime.bg, www.intime.bg.
QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Speedy D-3, bul. Cherni vrah 67, tel. 0 7001 7001,
www.speedy.bg. Q Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun.
Tip Top F-7, bul. Lomsko shose 35, tel. 936 99 99, fax
936 98 10, tiptop@courier.bg, www.courier.bg. QOpen
09:00 - 17:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
TNT G-9, ul. Nedelcho Bonchev 35, tel. 070 011 666,
fax 933 91 44, tnt.sales.bg@tnt.com, www.tnt.com/
country/bg_bg.html. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Internet cafes
Garibaldi C-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev 6, tel. 989 42 85, info@
garibaldicafe.net, www.garibaldicafe.net. Eighteen

computers plus scanning, printing and low-rate international
phone calls. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Price: 2Lv/hr.
Matritsata C-2, ul. Neofit Rilski 70, www.ma3x.net.
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 2Lv/hr.
Site C-2, bul. Vitosha 45, tel. 986 08 96, info@siteout.
net, www.siteout.net. Quiet, comfortable spot in a courtyard just off the street. Coffee and other drinks. QOpen
00:00 - 24:00. Price: 2Lv/hr.
Virtus C-2, ul. Han Asparuh 53, www.virtus.hit.bg.
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 2Lv/hr.
ISPs
Bitex D-2, ul. William Gladstone 39, tel. 980 02 38,
info@bitex.com, www.bitex.com. Dial-up services, wireless Internet, leased lines, hosting, web design.
CableTEL G-7, zh-k Lozenets, bul. Nikola Vaptsarov 51A,
tel. 480 01 11/0700 11 011, info@cabletel.bg, www.
cabletel.bg. LAN and cable internet, IP telephony, cable and
digital TV. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
Digital Systems B-3, ul. Triaditsa 4, tel. 981 13 01,
fax 980 68 89, office-sofia@digsys.bg, www.digsys.bg.
Wireless network, cable internet, virtual private networks, IP
telephony, web services.
Megalan Network H-8, ul. Yordan Yosifov 4, Business
cenre Mania, fl.1, tel. 0800 18 400/0800 20 400, info@
megalan.bg, www.megalan.bg.
Power Net B-1, ul. Ovche pole 122, fl.3, tel. 987 65
43/0878 125 880, info@powernet.bg, www.powernet.
bg. LAN and cable Internet, free dial-up, web services.
Spectrum Net G-8, bul. G.M.Dimitrov 36, tel. 489 06
00, info@spnet.net, www.spnet.net. All kinds of Internet
services.
Free Wi-Fi zones W

Sofia may not be the best place in the world, in terms of
communication, but still the days of carrier pigeons are
long gone. There are several free Wi-Fi zones in town:
The park Gen. Vladimir Zaimov, B-5
The park Doktorskata Gradinka, B-5
Central Bus Station, F-8
Shopping Center Tsentralni hali, A-2
NDK Mostat na vlyubenite (Lovers Bridge), D-2
Postal rates
Bulgaria
0.35 Lv
0.55 Lv
Postcards
Letters
Europe
1.00 Lv
1.00 Lv
USA & Others

1.40 Lv
1.40 Lv
Bulgarian main city codes

44
68 Sliven
Blagoevgrad 73 Lovech
2
Burgas
56 Pazardzhik 34 Sofia
76 Stara Zagora 42
Dobrich
58 Pernik
52
64 Varna
Gabrovo
66 Pleven
32 V. Tarnovo 62
Haskovo
38 Plovdiv
94
82 Vidin
Yambol
46 Ruse
92
86 Vratsa
Kyustendil 78 Silistra
The above codes should be prefixed with 0 if dialing
from inside Bulgaria.
International country codes

Austria
Belgium
Bulgaria
Croatia
Czech Rep.
Denmark
Finland
France
Germany
Greece
43
32
359
385
420
45
358
33
49
30
Hungary
36
Ireland
353
Israel
972
Italy
39
Japan
61
Macedonia 389
Netherlands 31
Norway
47
Poland
48
Portugal
351
Romania 40
Russia
7
Serbia
381
Slovenia
386
Spain
34
Sweden
46
Switzerland 41
Turkey
90
UK
44
USA/Canada 1

Bulgarian resort codes

Albena
Balchik
Bansko
Borovets
Golden sands
Nessebar
579
579
749
750
52
554
Pamporovo
Sozopol
St. St. Konstantin
and Elena
Sunny beach
3095
550
52
554

Mobile phones
Globul Mladost-4, Business Park, building 6, tel.
942 80 00, fax 942 80 10, CustomerCare@globul.bg,
www.globul.bg. One of the main mobile operators. You
can buy their b-connect pre-paid cards. For information tel.
089 123.
KEEPING IN TOUCH
MTel ul. Kukush 1, tel. 0888 088 088, fax 0888 500
885, customerservice@mobiltel.bg, www.mtel.bg. Another major mobile operator. They sell prepaid cards for the
Prima network, available at most kiosks and shops.
Vivatel C-1, bul. Totleben 8, tel. 087 123, www.vivatel.
bg. Bulgarias third mobile phone operator, started in 2005.
Phone rental
Intrafonica Bulgaria near Sofia International Airport,
tel. 49 13 330, customer.service@intrafonica.com,

www.intrafonica.com. Short- to mid-term GSM cell phone
rentals, local SIM cards and Mobile Internet services delivered
via GPRS, thus avoiding inflated roaming rates and incoming
call charges. Rental packages are delivered either to your
hotel or to alternative address of your choice. Orders online
available. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Post
Central Post Office B-3, ul. Gurko 6, tel. 980 12
25, www.bgpost.bg. QOpen 07:00 - 20:30, Sun 08:00
- 13:00.
T Post H-8, Mladost 4, Business Park Sofia, tel. 489

81 60, www.tpost-bg.com. First Bulgarian private post.
Pre-paid mobile service

Frog mobile , www.frogmobile.bg. Take your starter pack
and vouchers at a kiosk near you or from a store from the

trade network of Globul. By dialing 1212 from your mobile
number or +359891212 from any fixed or mobile telephone
you get connected to the Customer Care Center.
Petrol mobile. Take your starter pack and vouchers at

Petrol oil stations all over the country. For more information call
333 (for Petrol mobile owners only) or 098 8733333 .
Public telephones
BTC Centre B-3, ul. Gurko 4. You can make international
calls from the metered cabins and pay the cashier on the
way out. Also Internet access available. QOpen 00:00 24:00.
Planetphone B-3, ul. Stefan Karadzha 18B, tel. 980 28
75, planetphone@planetphone.net, www.planetphone.
net. Cheap international calls. QOpen 9:30 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 20:00.
11
12
CUltUre & events

If you can manage to tear yourself away from the fashion
and sport channels to which the TVs in Sofias cafes and
bars seem permanently tuned, there is a huge amount of
high-quality culture awaiting your enjoyment. Tickets for
all events are extremely affordable by western standarts,
so theres really no excuse for giving such a rich cultural
menu a miss.
The Bulgarian symbol
Art galleries
Art Gallery Paris B-4, ul. Parizh 8, tel. 980 80 93, info@
gallery-paris.com, www.gallery-paris.com. Charming little

gallery representing younger-generation Bulgarian artists,
especially those working in expressive, figurative styles.
QOpen 11:00 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Galeria Akademia B-4, ul. Shipka 1, tel. 987 81 77.
Prestige group shows in the gallery of the Bulgarian Academy
of Fine Arts. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00.
Goethe-Institut Sofia B-4, ul. Budapeshta 1, tel. 939
01 00, fax 939 01 99, info@sofia.goethe.org, www.
goethe.de/sofia. Challenging and off-beat contemporary
art shows, in the German cultural centre. QOpen , Mon,
Fri 10:00 - 14:00, Tue, Wed, Thu 14:00 - 19:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
GreenCat Gallery C-5, ul. Varbiza 6, tel. 0886 154
526, n.maneva@greencatgallery.com, www.greencatgallery.com.
Krug + B-4, ul. Budapeshta 5, tel. 988 25 79. Cuttingedge work in one of Sofias coolest spaces. QOpen 10:00
- 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Lessedra D-3, ul. Milin kamak 25, tel. 865 04 28,
georgi@lessedra.com, www.lessedra.com. Dealership with contemporary Bulgarian and international art
on show. Specializes in prints and graphics, with a good
selection of i tems for sale. Q Open 15:00 - 19:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Maksim B-2, ul. Lom 11, tel. 988 10 62. Contemporary work by leading Bulgarian painters and sculptors, in a
beautiful split-level space. QOpen 11:00 - 18:30. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Rakursi C-3, ul. Han Krum 4A, tel. 981 26 17, gallery@
rakursi.com, www.rakursi.com. Small private gallery
specializing in contemporary Bulgarian art, representing sizeable stable of established and emerging artists. Extensive
collection of paintings, graphics, photographs and sculptures
at all prices. QOpen 11:00 - 19:30, Sat 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sun.
Sculpture park G-8, ul. Aleksandur Zhendov 2, tel.
948 20 36, culturalinstitute@mfa.government.bg,
www.sic.mfa.government.bg. In the Sculpture park outside the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, over 90 works created
by Bulgarian sculptors from the 1930s until the present
days, are displayed along with other monuments. QOpen
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Shipka 6 B-5, ul. Shipka 6, tel. 846 71 13, fax 946 02
12, info@sbhart.com, www.sbhart.com. Located in the
upper storeys of the Bulgarian Artists Union building, this
hosts a wide variety of shows by artists from Bulgaria and
beyond. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Sibank Galeria B-3, ul. Slavyanska 2, tel. 939 92 80.
Tucked away behind the National Theatre in the headquarters of a major bank, this gallery concentrates on big names
from the contemporary Bulgarian art world. Expect the kind
of head-scratching installations and conceptual works that
are in short supply elsewhere. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat,
Sun 15:00 - 19:00.
Tea E-2, ul. Dimitar Hadzhikotsev 10, tel. 865 84 26.
Contemporary paintings for sale, and frequent one-off exhibitions by the more off-the-wall artists. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00,
Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Tsarevets - Kings On The Hill
The hill of Tsarevets is a famous landmark in Veliko Tarnovo

and one of the Bulgarian symbols. It holds the memory for
the capital of the Second Bulgarian Kingdom and the great
Tsar Kaloyan. Within its stone walls used to be the castle
of the Bulgarian kings, his bolyari (who were the nobles,
next to the king) and the patriarch, who was the head of
the Bulgarian church. Only one of its towers remains to this
day. It is called the Tower of Baldwin the First (no connection
with the notorious brothers) because the Latin Emperor
was held prisoner there and found his death, by jumping
from it, as the legend says. He fell captive after the big
battle of Adrianople in 1205 when Tsar Kaloyan defeated
the knights of the Fourth Crusade.
The ruins of Tsarevets reveal a densely inhabited medieval city with numerous buildings of various purposes.
Some parts of it have been restored, including the church
Ascension of Christ, which crowns the top of the hill.
To commemorate the glory of the Bulgarian Kingdom, a
spectacular Sound And Light show with colourful lights,
lasers and music is held on a regular basis. It presents
the different periods in the history of Bulgaria and is a
unique experience for tourists and locals.
The Hill of Tsarevets is open for visitors from 08:00 to
19:00 from April to September and from 09:00 to 17:00
from October to March. The local historical museum offers
guided tours in English, French, German, Russian, Spanish
and Greek Language. For Information and reservations
call: 062 638 841, 0885 105 282, 0885 105 275. Admission fee is 6Lv, the guided tour is 30Lv.
photo Regional Historical Museum V.Tarnovo
CUltUre & events

The Red House (Chervenata kashta) C-4, ul. Lyuben
Karavelov 15, tel. 988 81 88, info@redhouse-sofia.org,
www.redhouse-sofia.org. An early twentieth-century mansion now serving as a cutting-edge cultural centre for Sofias
arty set. Theres a meaty menu of exhibitions, small-scale
concerts, video screenings and drama. QOpen 15:00 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Cinemas
Arena Zapad F-7, bul. Todor Aleksandrov 64, tel. 920
99 99, www.kinoarena.com. Biggest of the multiplexes,

with 15 screens, on-site pizzeria, ice cream parlour and more.
Near the Vardar metro station. Another branch at H-8, Mladost-4, Business Park Sofia. Q (7-12Lv). PK
Cinema City B-1, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 101, tel.
981 19 11, fax 981 57 77, marketing@cinemacity.bg,
www.cinemacity.bg. State-of-the-art multiscreen in the Mall
of Sofia shopping complex, surrounded by fast-food outlets
and other places to spend your money. Also includes the Mtel
Imax cinema, where you can sit back in your 3-D spectacles
and have your brain scrambled by the twenty-four-metre-wide
screen. Q (7-12Lv). P
Cineplex D-2, bul. Arsenalski 2, tel. 964 30 07, www.
cineplex.bg. Nine-screen cinema on the top floor of the City
Center Sofia shopping mall. Not too far from the city centre,
and with loads of eating and drinking opportunities in the mall
itself. Q (6-12Lv). P
Euro Cinema B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 17, tel.
980 41 61, fx_cin@hotmail.com. Well-chosen menu of classy
European flicks and non-mainstream choices. Q (4-5Lv).
House of Cinema (Dom na kinoto) A-3, ul. Ekzarh
Yosif 37, tel. 980 39 11. This is the place for the real movie
buffs. If it won a prize at an obscure European festival, it will
probably be shown here. Q (6-7 Lv).
Ticket offices
National Palace of Culture D-2, pl. Bulgaria 1, tel.
916 63 69. QOpen 8:00 19:00
Orange music store B-3, Orange Center, 2nd floor,
ul. Graf Ignatiev 18, tel. 985 41 41, orangemusic@
netbg.com. Qopen 9:00 21:00
Ticketstream B-2, ul. Tsar Samuil 50, tel. 981 38
59, www.ticketstream.bg. QOpen: 9:30 18:00
Kino Vlaykova C-5, ul. Tsar Ivan Asen 11, tel. 944 39
23. An old-fashioned, single-screen cinema in the leafy Ivan
Asen district, screening a mixture of art films and Hollywood
flicks. The cinemas bar also serves as local pub and snooker
hall. Q (3-5Lv).
Odeon C-1, bul. Patriarh Evtimiy 1, tel. 989 24 69. Showing old movies and nothing else, this is a great place to sit
back and enjoy a big-screen nostalgia-fest. Q (4-6 Lv).
Music, opera and ballet

Bulgaria Hall (Zala Bulgaria) B-3, ul. Aksakov 1, tel.
987 76 56. Home of the Bulgarian philharmonic, this is the
top place in the country for symphonic concerts. QOpen .
Closed Sat, Sun. Open 10:30-13:00, 15:00-18:00 Closed
Sat, Sun.
Music Centre Boris Hristov B-2, ul. Tsar Samuil 43,
tel. 987 35 92, boris_chrisoff@abv. The house of the
famous Bulgarian opera singer is an art centre housing a
rich museum collection as well as a stage for young talents musicians, opera singers, artists, actors. A spacious concert
hall is arranged with a gorgeous grand piano. QOpen 11:00
- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
13
14
CUltUre & events

National Musical Theatre B-5, ul. Panayot Volov 2,
tel. 944 50 85, fax 944 13 42, operetta@otel.net, www.
musictheatre.bg. Best known for operetta and musicals,
but occasionally features dance performances too. QOpen
08:30 - 18:30. Closed Sun. Tickets: tel. 943 19 79
National Opera and Ballet B-4, ul. Vrabcha 1, tel.
987 13 66, fax 980 91 22, sfopera@geobiz.net, www.
operasofia.bg. The jewel in Sofias cultural crown, featuring the best local artistes and guesting prima donnas from
abroad. QOpen 09:30 - 18:30, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 18:00.
Tickets: tel. 987 13 66
National Palace of Culture (Natsionalen dvorets
na kulturata - NDK) D-2, pl. Bulgaria 1, tel. 916 68
30, fax 865 70 53, drumev@ndk.bg, www.ndk.bg.

Mammoth-sized cultural centre with a 3800-seater main
hall and numerous smaller concert spaces. Hosts all kinds of
high-profile musical events. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed
Sun. Tickets: tel. 916 63 69
Theatres
Aleko Konstantinov Satirical Theatre (Satirichen
teatar) B-3, ul. Stefan Karadzha 26, tel. 987 66 06, sati-
rata@slovo.bg. Comedies both classical and modern.
Beyond the Canal (Malak gradski teatar Zad

kanala) G-8, bul. Madrid 1, tel. 846 20 20, mgt@abv.
bg, www.theatreoffthechannel.org. Studio theatre offering
anything from small-scale contemporary productions to film
projections and jazz gigs.
Bulgarian Army Theatre (Teatar Bulgarska

armiya) B-4, ul. Rakovski 98, tel. 987 23 03, tba@
art.bg, www.art.bg/tba. High quality classical and contemporary drama.
Ivan Vazov National Theatre (Naroden teatar)
B-3, ul. Dyakon Ignatiy 5, tel. 811 92 19, fax 987 70

66, info@nationaltheatre.bg, www.nationaltheatre.bg.
Sofias grandest thespians tread the boards.
National Opera and Ballet

January
08.01
09.01
10.01
11.01
18.01
23.01
19:00
19:00
19:00
16:00
16:00
19:00
19:00
24.01
19:00
19:00
25.01
16:00
16:00
29.01
30.01
31.01
19:00
19:00
19:00
19:00
Giacomo Puccini opera La Boheme

P. Tchaikovsky ballet The Nutcracker
Sergei Rachmaninoff opera Aleko
Nikolai Rimsky-Korsakov ballet
Scheherazade
Scheherazade
Scheherazade
M.Theodorakis ballet Zorba the Greek
Scheherazade
February
13.02
19:00 100 years from the establishment of
the Bulgarian Opera Fellowship
14.02
19:00 In the embrace of the cello concert
of Svetlozar Radukanov
15.02
16:00 P. Tchaikovsky ballet Swan Lake
18.02
19.02
26.02
19:00 Gala performance - 75 years from

the birth of the singer Stoyan Popov
16:00 Copplia ballet in two acts
19:00 Copplia ballet in two acts
19:00 P. Tchaikovsky ballet Swan Lake
March
07:03
08.03
10.03
12.03
19:00
16:00
19:00
19:00
17.02
Jules Massenet opera Don Quichotte

P. Tchaikovsky ballet The Sleeping
Beauty
13.03
19:00 Jules Massenet opera Don Quichotte
15.03
16:00 Jules Massenet opera Don Quichotte
20.03
19:00 G.Verdi opera Nabucco
21.03
22.03
25-28.03 10:00, 11:30, 19:00
Shegobishko on the Wonders Island
(Child education program)
29.03
16:00 Miroslav Danev ballet Legend for
Sibin, the knyaz of Preslav
Performances take place at National Opera and Ballet
B-4, ul. Vrabcha 1, tel. 987 13 66. More info at www.
operasofia.bg
CUltUre & events

Famous Bulgarians
Khan Krum-The Sober And The Merciless. The
name of Khan Krum evokes national pride and fear in the

delinquent ones. He started his rule in the year 803 with a
serious territorial enlargement, adding Transylvania to the
lands of the First Bulgarian Kingdom. Feeling threatened
by the ambitious neighbours, the Byzantine Emperor
Nicephorus I started two consecutive campaigns against
Khan Krum. Declining all peace offers by the Bulgarian
Khan, he conquered and pillaged Krums capital Pliska,
drowning Bulgarian lands in blood. However, his triumph
was pretty short, because on the way back to Constantinople in the summer of year 811, Bulgarians and Slavs,
led by Khan Krum himself, ambushed and vanquished
the Byzantine army. The Bulgarian ruler spared all prisoners and sent them back to their families. Nicephorus
I was not as lucky, because he died at the beginning of
the battle and ended up on the kitchen shelf, as Khan
Krum made a cup of his skull, and used it extensively for
proposing toasts at glorious court parties. What did he
pour into the cup is unknown, as he was a really mean
sobriety activist - he destroyed all the vine plants in his
lands. He also cut the tongues of liars and broke the
shinbones of the thieves. These rules were carved in
stone and obeyed by both Slavs and Bulgarians, and are
recognized as the first written legislation in the Bulgarian
Kingdom and also the first serious step in the unification
of the two major Bulgarian ethnic groups. Khan Krum
also made a new administrative division of the kingdom
and took away Thracias sovereignty. Krum died from a
heart attack in 814 under the walls of Constantinople,
but first he pillaged the European part of the Byzantine
Empire and tortured the capitals citizens with all types
of siege weapons and the good old shock of public and
pagan human sacrifices.
Ralitsa Vassileva-Those Blue

Bulgarian Eyes. If you have
ever watched CNN, you know for

sure who Ralitsa Vassileva is. The
blue-eyed news reporter with a
name too hard to pronounce, has
been on air for seventeen years
already. Most of you may not know
it, but she is from Sofia and started
working as a news anchor in 1992,
two years after she started working
as a reporter for Bulgarian National
Television. She has interviewed numerous celebrities and
important politicians, among which Mikhail Gorbachev
and Henry Kissinger. Watching a Bulgarian present the
world news has always made us Bulgarians feel a little
better and important.
Sfumato Theatre Workshop (Teatralna rabotilnit-
sa Sfumato) G-8, ul. Dimitar Grekov 2, tel. 944 01

27, fax 943 39 35, sfumato@mbox.contact.bg, www.
sfumato.info. On-the-edge experimental theatre from an
internationally renowned company.
Tears and Laughter (Salza i smyah) B-4, ul. Rakovski
127, tel. 987 58 95, fax 987 36 14, office@salzaismiah.
com, www.salzaismiah.com. Quality, often challenging work
from Sofias oldest drama company.
Theatre 199 B-4, ul. Slavyanska 8, tel. 987 85 33, fax
988 53 19, theatre199@infotel.bg, www.theatre199.
org. Top place for contemporary studio performances. Gets
the name from its 199 seats.
The Martenitsa Celebrating

Spring In Red And White
The first day of March marks
the beginning of the colourfull Bulgarian tradition of
wearing martenitsas. These
decorative tassels are worn
by old and young, men and
women and even animals.
It is believed that they bring
good health and Bulgarians
wear them from the first of March, until a stork or a swallow
is seen, and then the martenitsa should be tied to a blossoming tree. They are traditionally red and white, as the
colour white symbolizes purity and the soul and red stands
for life and passion, but all other additional colours are fully
acceptable as a further decoration. Generally, even a Mickey
Mouse pin with the red and white tassels is considered
a martenitsa, but the traditional one is just with the two
tassels, named Pizho and Penda. The legend traces the
origins of the martenitsas to the founder of Bulgaria, khan
Asparuh and his brothers and sisters, who communicated
with threads, tied to the legs of falcons. As Asparuhs brother
Bayan was sending a bird, he got mortally wounded and his
blood stained the white thread, making it the first ever martenitsa, which was given by the khan to his soldiers.
As usual, all friends, relatives and colleagues present
each other martenitsas on March 1st by saying Chestita
Baba Marta, as the first month of spring is believed
to be a grumpy old woman with wild mood swings, just
as the weather in March. Bulgarians wear them all over
the world and you can wear them too, if you want to be
healthier this spring.
Name days
In Bulgaria, ones name day is considered as important as
a birthday. It is customary to buy treats for family members
and colleagues. Take note of the dates below and ingratiate
yourself with any Bulgarians you meet by buying them a
shot of rakia on their name day. Either that, or exploit your
own by getting lashings of free drinks from your friends and
acquaintances. When in Rome and all that.
1st January Vasilyovden - Vasil, Vasilena, Veselin,
Vasko, Vesela
6th January Yordanovden (St. Jordans day) Yordan,
Yordanka, Dancho, Danka, Bozhan, Bozhana, Dana,
Bogdan, Bogdana.
7th January Ivanovden - Ivan, Ivanka, Vanya, Yoan,
Yoana, Yova, Zhan, Zhana
17th January Antonovden Anton, Andon, Antoniya,
Toncho, Tonka
18th January Atanasovden - Atanas, Atanaska,
Tanas, Naso, Nasya
1st February Trifonovden - Trifon, Trifonka
10th February- St. Haralampi Haralampi, Valentin,
Valentina
13th February Evlogi, Zoya
1st March Marta, Martin, Evdokia
4th March Gerasim
9th March -The Holy 40th Martyrs - Mladen, Mladenka
10th March Galya, Galin, Galina
19th March Daria, Nayden, Nayda
25th March Blagoveshtenie (the Annunciation) Blagovest, Blagovesta, Blagoy, Blaga, Evangelina, Vangel
28th March Albena, Boyan, Boyko, Boyka
15
16
CUltUre & events

Rock and pop
Turn up the heat with some blistering guitar riffs and
pounding thrash metal drums. The biggest names of
extreme metal music are coming our way, along with some
pop, love and progressive rockers
Sepultura
Sofia, club Blue Box tickets: 35Lv
Anyone who has ever listened to metal music knows this
name. The titans from Brazil are still strong, even without
the Cavalera Brothers, who left the band to do whatever
they want. We dont care. The two new guys, along with
the two original guitar players are still too good and heavy
to be true. Tickets are limited
06.02
Sodom and Grave Digger

Sofia, Hristo Botev Hall tickets: 30-40Lv
These ancient German thrash metallers have been torturing
our ears and touring the world for almost 30 years. They
sur vived hard trends and hard times, but will you survive
their show along with the heroic power metal band Grave
Digger?
07.02
Kreator, Caliban, Eluveitie, Emergency Gate

Sofia, Universiada Sports Hall tickets: 35-45Lv
Not enough Metal? Finish the triple thrash metal treat with
the German veterans Kreator, who are as old as the Creator
himself. See them play some classic German headbanging
tunes along with the powerful youngsters Caliban. Then go
sleep or see the doctor for your pierced eardrums.
08.02
The Rasmus
These platinum-selling Finnish pop-rockers will show you the
sensitive side of playing heavy music. Especially suitable
for girls in black make up who love boys in black make up.
And eagle feathers
12.02
Marillion
This classic progressive rock band from Britain will spread
its artful sounds and messages in our capital. Although
their enigmatic leader Fish is no longer in the band, they
still can play tight and good.
21.02
Samael, Keep of Kalessin, Noctiferia

Sofia, club Blue Box tickets: 30-35Lv
Discover the darkest essence of evil music with these cult
Black Metal Bands from Switzerland and Norway. Just dont
go burning churches, because in Sofia they are made of
stone and are well guarded.
31.01
Live From Buena Vista

The Havana Lounge Sofia, NDK Hall 1
tickets: 20-70Lv
We really doubt that any of the original Buena Vista Social
Club is still alive, but the name, or should we call it a
brand still sells, so if you are a sucker for Cuban music,
it is your show.
06.02
James Blunt
Sofia, NDK Hall 1 tickets: 40-70Lv
See if you are more beautiful than this best selling
breakthrough artist. His sensitive songs will melt even the
coldest hearts, so if anyone had any love problems around
Christmas, then a ticket for this show should straighten
them out for good.
22.02
Lordi
Sofia, Hristo Botev Hall tickets: 30-40Lv
After winning the Eurovision, these monstrous masked rockers
from Finland will try to scare or please you with their metal
sound. Just dont bring little kids and grannies at this show.
06.03
Sveti Trifon (St. Trifon)

Sveti Trifon (St. Trifon) is known as the patron of the vineyards all over the Balkans . The holiday originates from the
Dionisian Celebrations in ancient Greece. Early in the
morning every wine-grower goes to his vineyard, turns to the
east and makes the sign of the cross. Afterwards he cuts
three sprigs from three different vines and waters the spot
with wine, holy water and ash, kept from the Christmas fire.
It is done for ensuring a rich harvest. These sprigs are kept
in front of the icon in the house. In the evening all the men of
the village sit together around the ritual table in the vineyards
and celebrate the day with lots of wine. In some regions the
men dig a hole in the middle of the the vineyard and bury a
bottle of holy water in it for prevention of hailstorms.
Nowadays the feast is also known as Trifon the Drunkard
because of the large quantity of wine being drunk that day.
It is celebrated mainly on 14th February, although some
people celebrate it on 1st February according to the old
calendar. But, of course, there are people celebrating the
drinkers holiday on both of the days the more holidays,
the better.
CUltUre & events

Exhibitions
The exhibition The Cultural Revolution A Road To
Socialism, Russian Architectural Avant-garde in the
1920s 1930s is in the National Gallery of Foreign
Art from 05.11.2008 to 20.01.2009
Until the 20 th of January, you will have the last chance
to see a very interesting exhibition in the National Gallery of Foreign Art. It consists of 119 different projects,
blueprints, sketches, paintings and pictures, presenting
the avant-garde of Russian Soviet architecture from the
beginning of the 20 th century, namely the twenties, just
after the October revolution. Although the purpose of
such megalomaniac building was to praise communism,
some ideas and concepts are timeless and important,
outside the political doctrine. Some of these projects
remained on the architects desk, but others were built
and will be there in the next two thousand years.
The exhibition, named I do not seek, I find - Pablo

Picasso is in the National Gallery of Foreign Art from
17.11.2008 to 15.03.2009
Some painters have become a symbol and an epitome
of art, becoming immortal with their work. Such a symbol
of modern art is Pablo Picasso, who is among the best
and most famous people to pick a brush (and not only
since he used all types of art expression). You can never
be mistaken if you visit an exhibition of his works and fortunately, here in Sofia, the National Gallery of Foreign Art
hosts a display of 86 works by this enigmatic superstar
artist. 44 of these are graphics, 18 are ceramics and 24
are paintings and prints. The most famous is the Portrait
of Paul his first born son. These works of art, being it
crooked, strange to grasp, or just pure genius come from
museums and private collections in Spain and will be on
display until the 15th of March.
17
18
WHere to stay
Sofias accommodation scene has been transformed by
a rash of hotel building in recent years, and there is now
a big choice in all categories. The advertised star ratings
are reasonably accurate guide to quality in most cases,
although they dont always mean that all the rooms in
particular establishment are up to the stated standard.
Hotels invariably list their prices in euros, although you can
pay the equivalent rate in leva if you wish.
Symbol key
Cream of the crop

Grand Hotel Sofia B-3, ul. Gurko 1, tel. 811 08 00,
fax 811 08 01, reservations@grandhotelsofia.bg, www.

grandhotelsofia.bg. Quality writ large. It is bang in the middle
of town - on the doorstep of the National Theatre, the City Art
Gallery, within walking distance from the Bulgaria Concert Hall
and the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. The staff are professional from top to bottom, the rooms are huge, and the classy
furnishings are built to last rather than just look good. The
spacious bathrooms come with both bathtub and shower. The
ground-floor Grand Cafe, facing out towards the City Garden,
serves up some spectacular cakes. Q122 rooms (52 singles
150 - 235, 53 doubles 180 - 265, 17 suites 230 - 585).
PTHARUFLEGKDW hhhhh
Hilton D-2, bul. Bulgaria 1, tel. 933 50 00, fax 933 51

11, reservations.sofia@hilton.com, www.sofia.hilton.
com. Enduringly popular choice with visiting businessfolk,
with a handily central location and the attention-to-detail
service that you would expect from the chain. Rooms come
in a soothing combination of blues, yellows and greens, and
the generously-proportioned bathrooms feature both shower
cabin and bathtub (so you can wash yourself twice at the
same time!). Guests have free use of pool and gym, and all
rooms come with coffee and tea-making facilities. Q245
rooms (singles 168 - 312, doubles 310 - 332, suites 486
- 1200). PHAUFLGKDCW hhhhh
Holiday Inn Sofia H-8, bul. Aleksandar Malinov 111,
tel. 807 07 07, fax 807 07 08, info@holidayinnsofia.

bg, www.holidayinnsofia.bg. Dependable standards of
5-star comfort and service from an experienced chain.
Rooms feature flat-screen TVs, wireless internet and
bathrooms with separate bath and shower. Located near
the Mladost business park its a popular choice for business folk, and the centre of town is only a 20-minute taxi
ride away. International cuisine in the all-day Brasserie and
InCanto restaurant provide excuses to linger on-site, as do
the fully-equipped gym and 19-metre swimming pool. The
range of conference facilities on offer make this a choice
venue for hard-headed get-togethers. Q 130 rooms
(singles 70 - 115, doubles 90 - 135, suites 160 - 175).
PHAUFLGKDCW hhhhh
Kempinski Hotel Zograf ski G-7, bul. Dzheims
Baucher 100, tel. 969 22 22, fax 969 22 23, kempinski.zografski@kempinski.com, www.kempinski.bg.
Five-star comforts can be taken for granted here, although
the hulking, high-rise nature of the place will not suit those
who want a cosy intimate retreat. Rooms are currently
decorated in onyx-blue and green, although some floors
are being gradually refitted in beige. Now part of a German
chain, the Zografski was originally built by Japanese investors in the 1980s, and youll still find a few uniquely oriental
touches here - notably the Japanese garden centered on
the pavilion-style Sakura restaurant. Q442 rooms (90
singles 260, 90 doubles 280, 15 suites 410 - 430, 1
Presidential apartment 1920 - 1940, 2 Vice Presidential
apartments 970 - 990, 244 Double delux 300 - 320).
PHARFLKDC hhhhh
P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
O Casino
H Conference facilities
T Child friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet
L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre
G Non-smoking rooms
K Restaurant
M Nearest metro station
D Sauna
C Swimming pool
6 Animal friendly
W Wi-Fi connection
Radisson SAS Grand Hotel B-4, pl. Narodno sabranie
4, tel. 933 43 34, fax 933 43 35, info.sofia@radissonsas.

com, www.sofia.radissonsas.com. Occupying the prime
site opposite Bulgarias parliament and the Aleksandar Nevski
Memorial Church, the Radisson offers the kind of understated
luxury that the chain is famous for: soothing colours, deepmattressed beds, classy marble-floored bathrooms (featuring
both bathtub and shower), and electric kettles in every room.
Standard rooms on the south side of the building are perfectly
adequate, but its the business class doubles and junior suites
on the north side that come with fabulous views of Narodno sabranie square. Notwithstanding the surrounding nightlife (both
Flannnagans Pub and the London Casino are on the ground floor
of the same building), the hotel itself is nicely quiet. Q133
rooms (singles 130 - 205, doubles 156 - 220, suites 260 290). POHARUFLGKDW hhhhh
Sheraton Sofia Hotel Balkan B-3, pl. Sveta Nedelya
5, tel. 981 65 41, fax 980 64 64, sofia.reservations@

luxurycollection.com, www.luxurycollection.com/sofia. Sofias longest-established luxury hotel, and part of the
Sheraton chain for a decade and a half, this urban landmark in
the heart of downtown Sofia combines traditional five-star frills
with high-tech amenities. The building itself is a showpiece of
1950s architectural style, featuring sweeping staircases, long
and spacious corridors, and chandeliers on every floor. Classic
rooms are contemporary in style with blue and orange decor
and classy bathrooms. Executive rooms boast near-antique
furniture, flat-screen TVs and coffee-and-tea-making facilities.
Spacious ground-floor lobby areas and a chic cafe-restaurant
provide the icing on the cake. Q188 rooms (singles 310
- 355, doubles 320 - 370, apartments 420 - 435). PO
HARUFLGKDW hhhhh
Upmarket
Anel B-2, bul. Todor Aleksandrov 14, tel. 911 99 00, fax
911 97 61, hotelanel@hotelanel.com, www.hotelanel.

com. if you want to stay in a top-class hotel, which has more
character than the international chains, then this modern
building on the fringes of downtown Sofia just about fits
the bill. Its stuffed to the gills with contemporary Bulgarian
paintings and sculptures and has the feel of a top international gallery when you first cross the threshold. The rooms
themselves come in bold blues and browns, and theres an
exotic on-site Spa centre with a water-surrounded caf-bar approached by bridge. Q58 rooms (8 singles 270, 31 doubles
290, 18 apartments 320 - 370, 1 Presidential apartment).
PTHARUFGKDCW hhhhh
Art Otel C-2, ul. Gladston 44, tel. 980 60 00, fax 981 19
09, office@artotel.biz, www.artotel.biz. A joint BulgarianSpanish project occupying a re-vamped 1930s apartment block.
Fine textures, unusual shapes, leather furniture, fireplaces and a
Where to stay
smattering of contemporary paintings justify the hotels name.
Just a block away from bul. Vitosha, the location is as central as
they come, and some rooms on the upper storeys come with
excellent roof-level views of the surrounding cityscape. Q22
rooms (5 singles 105 - 145, 10 doubles 110 - 150, 3 suites
155 - 160). PHARLKD hhhh
Best Western Hotel City B-4, ul. Stara planina 6, tel.

915 15 00, fax 986 20 00, info@sofiacityhotel.com,
www.sofiacityhotel.com. Relatively new structure with spacious modern rooms, and the range of services that you would
expect from a four-star. Rooms are smart and shipshape and
the staff members are eager to please. And it couldnt be
better placed for Sofias historical centre. Q61 rooms (10
singles 119, 42 doubles 130 - 150, 9 suites 180 - 240).
PTHARLGBKDW hhhh
Best Western Hotel Europe G-8, ul. Liditse 1, tel. 970 15
00, fax 970 15 11, info@hotel-europe-bg.com, www.hoteleurope-bg.com. Contemporary building in a suburban street
offering rooms decorated in cheerful citrus-fruit colours. Some
have large bathrooms with bathtubs, although you cant always
bank on getting one of these. The top floor Sky Bar has fantastic
views west towards the city and south towards Mount Vitosha.
Q42 rooms (18 singles 110 - 125, 18 doubles 130 - 145, 6
suites 160 - 185). PTARFLBKW hhhh
Best Western Hotel Expo G-8, bul. Tsarigradsko shose
149, tel. 817 81, fax 974 30 90, reservations@hotelexposofia.com, www.hotelexposofia.com. Located mid-way
between the airport and the city centre, this is an elegant
business hotel with a state-of-the-art interior and impeccable
staff. Expect modern design touches and arty pictures in
the rooms. The only problem is that its located in a rather
non-descript part of town, so dont expect a beautiful view.
Q99 rooms (singles 98-127, doubles 108-138, suites
177 - 197). POHARLGKW hhhh
Casa Boyana G-6, ul. Ivanitza Dantchev 23, Boyana,
tel. 805 08 00, fax 805 08 05, hotel@casaboyana.com,
www.casaboyana.com. Brand-new boutique-style hotel in
the mountain-side suburb of Boyana, close to the National
History Museum and with great city-facing views from the
windows of its restaurant. Rooms come with Italian furniture,
bold colours and swanky bathrooms, and the attention-todetail staff are as helpful as can be. Q16 rooms (7 singles
105 - 115, 7 doubles 105 - 125, 2 suites 145 - 165).
PAUFLKDW hhhh
Central B-2, bul. Hristo Botev 52, tel. 981 23 64, fax
986 45 61, central@central-hotel.com, www.centralhotel.com. A relatively new hotel in a convenient downtown

location, this is reasonably good value for the facilities on
offer. Rooms are decorated in modern, functional style; most
have showers rather than full-size bathtubs. Q28 rooms
(12 singles 65 - 95, 13 doubles 80 - 110, 3 apartments
120 - 175). PJHAREGKDW hhh
Central Forum G-7, bul. Tsar Boris III 41, tel. 954 44 44,
fax 954 33 33, central@central-hotel.com, www.centralhotel.com. Recently renovated block in a part-residential,

part-commercial area about 1km southwest of the downtown
action. The rooms are not all that spacious but come in stressreducing creamy colours. Unusually for what claims to be a four
star, most rooms come with shower, so youll need to fork out
for a luxury room if you need to soak in a real bathtub. On the
plus side we were rather excited to see electric kettles in some
of the rooms - something of a first for Bulgaria. Q51 rooms
120 - 140). PHARLKD hhhh
late Plaza Hotel

Mladost 1, Sofia
corner of Aleksander Malinov Blvd
& Andrey Sakharov Blvd
phone 974 4948, 0886 83 12 82
sales@elateplaza.com,
www.elateplaza.com
Central Park Hotel C-2, bul. Vitosha 106, tel. 805 88

88, fax 805 87 87, reservations@centralparkhotel.bg,
www.centralparkhotel.bg. This newish 4-star hotel enjoys
an enviable city-centre location right in front of the National
Palace of Culture and a stones throw from the main shopping,
eating and drinking areas. The rooms are comfortable and
well-equipped, most coming with views of the nearby park
and (in some cases) Mount Vitosha in the distance. The
restaurant does a good line in modern European cuisine,
complemented by a strong selection of wines. A full range of
business services and secretarial assistance is offered by
the business center. Q77 rooms (37 singles 165 - 170, 37
doubles 170 - 185, 3 suites 240 - 260). PJHAR
LGKW hhhh
Crystal Palace Boutique Hotel B-5, ul. Shipka 14,
tel. 948 94 88, fax 948 94 90, reservations@crystalpalace-sofia.com, www.crystalpalace-sofia.com. The

Crystal Palace emerged somewhat controversially from the
conversion of a nineteenth-century apartment block, which
involved mounting a huge glass-and-steel superstructure
on top of the historic building. Conservation issues aside,
its one of the best hotels in the city as far as service and
elegance are concerned, offering sunny, spacious rooms
with repro furniture and all the creature comforts. The
health-and-fitness club, moodily lit and decorated in coffee
and cinnamon shades, is the ideal place to wind down after
a hard day spent closing deals. Q63 rooms (singles 160,
doubles 180 - 200, suites 240 - 260). PHARF
GKDW hhhh
Dedeman Sofia Princess F-7, bul. Maria Luiza 131, tel.

933 88 88, fax 933 87 77, sofia@dedeman.com, www.
dedeman.com/Sofia.aspx. If youre the kind of person for
whom size matters then the Princess is probably your kind of
place. Its the biggest hotel in Sofia, it also boasts the biggest
casino in the Balkans - so its the perfect place to throw your
money away in lavish style. Rich colours, tasseled curtains
and fluffy cushions give the rooms a satisfyingly luxuriant
feel. Q 601 rooms (singles 87 - 96, doubles 107 - 116,
apartments 152 - 230). POHARUFLGKCW
hhhh
Greenville Hotel & Apartment Houses G-7, ul.
Atanas Dukov 36, tel. 819 19 19, fax 819 19 18, hotel@greenville-sofia.com, www.greenville-sofia.com. A
3-building complex set in leafy parkland south of the centre,
offering a mixture of standard rooms and studio apartments.
The rooms are light and luxurious, with flower bouquets
and oil paintings adding a homely touch. Q113 rooms
(singles 160 - 180, doubles 180 - 200, suites 240).
PTHARUFLGKDCW hhhh
Les Fleurs Boutique Hotel B-2, bul. Vitosha 21, tel.

810 08 00, fax 810 08 01, office@lesfleurshotel.com,
www.lesfleurshotel.com. A style-conscious boutique hotel
in a prime downtown position, Les Fleurs looks as if it has
jumped straight from the pages of an Italian interior design
19
20
WHere to stay
magazine. Artistic flair extends to every detail, from the floral
motifs inlaid into the hardwood floorboards to the glass-bead
table lamps, flat-screen TVs, and swish bathrooms with cylindrical shower cubicles. Balconied top floor rooms have great
views of the city centre. All rooms are irregularly shaped, and
the corridors bend their way across the building rather than
leading directly from A to B. The dodgy-looking black uniforms
worn by the front-of-house staff make up the only element
of the hotel that doesnt quite fit. Q31 rooms (14 singles
150 - 190, 15 doubles 160 - 200, 2 suites 250 - 290).
PJAGKW hhhh
Light A-3, ul. Veslets 37, tel. 917 90 90, fax 917 90 10,
sofiahotel@light.bg, www.hotels.light.bg. Classy modern
hotel in a quiet cobbled street that seems miles away from the
bustle of central Sofia. The public areas are boldly contemporary but the rooms themselves have a chintzy cosiness - note
however that some come with a shower cabinet while others
have a nice big bathtub. Q31 rooms (10 singles 90 - 110,
18 doubles 115 - 130, 2 suites 140 - 210, Studio: 170).
PJHARFLKDW hhhh
Maxi Park Hotel & Spa H-8, bul. Simeonovsko shose
110, tel. 892 00 00, fax 892 00 50, reservations@
maxisofia.com, www.maxisofia.com. If you want to
stay in the middle of a fully-equipped leisure complex
then you cant go far wrong with the Olymp, plunked in the
middle of a landscaped park dotted with swimming pools
and gazebos. The rooms come in fresh colours and brave
modern shapes, and many of them have good views of
Mount Vitosha to the south. Its a 15-minute drive to the
city centre from here, but with a restaurant decorated in
the style of a nineteenth-century Russian parlour, and a
glass-roofed cafe area stuffed with potted plants, theres
plenty to explore on-site. Q62 rooms (singles 96, doubles
126, suites 180 - 220, studios 126 - 156). PHAR
FLGKDCW hhhh
Park Hotel Vitosha H-8, ul. Rosario 1, tel. 816 88 88,
fax 962 29 25, reservations@vitoshaparkhotel.com,

www.vitoshaparkhotel.com. Brand-new Scandinavianstyle designer hotel full of light colours and nice wooden
surfaces. Rooms are fitted with cooking facilities, and the
on-site wellness amenities are perfect if youre in need of
a bit of pampering. In park-like surroundings on the southeastern edge of the city. Q170 rooms (60 singles 89, 80
doubles 119, 24 suites 119 - 139, 6 Vip studios 100).
PHARFLGKDCW hhhh
Residence Oborishte G-8, ul. Oborishte 63, tel. 814
48 88, fax 846 82 44, contact@residence-oborishte.

com, www.residence-oborishte.com. Supremely comfortable and relaxing establishment made up almost entirely of
two-room apartments, with warm rich colours predominating
throughout. The just-married apartment with an inviting bathtub by the wide double bed almost had us rushing to the registry office. An informal make-yourself-at-home atmosphere
adds to the welcoming feel. Q9 rooms (singles 90, doubles
100 - 120, suites 130 - 160, Junior Suite 120 - 150, King
Suite 140 - 180). PARW hhhh
SkyWay Hotel H-8, bul. Simeonovsko shose 166A, tel.
819 21 00, fax 819 21 99, sky@skywayhotel.com, www.

skywayhotel.com. Brand-new hotel in a freshly-renovated
building, located in the middle-class-dream neighbourhood of
Simeonovo, close to Mt Vitosha. Connections to the airport
are reasonably speedy, and the city-centre is a 15-minute taxi
ride away. The social areas combine ultra-modern straight
lines with ethnic garden furniture and house plants. Rooms
are decorated in bold colours and are almost spacious
Hotel Avalon
El Tepe No. 4,
Bansko 2700
Bulgaria
Tel (00359) 74988399
Fax (00359) 74988398
www.avalonhotel-bulgaria.com
enough to play a round of golf in. Theres a cosy on-site
restaurant and a business centre with PCs and free internet
connection. Q85 rooms (79 doubles 115 - 130, 5 apartments 170 - 190, 1 Presidential apartment 220 - 240).
PHAUFGKW hhhh
Sofia Plaza F-7, bul. Hristo Botev 154, tel. 813 79

79, fax 813 79 12, office@hotelsofiaplaza.com, www.
hotelsofiaplaza.com. Its about time there was a comfortable mid-price hotel in the vicinity of Sofias main railway
station, and Sofia Plaza seems to fit the bill. Its 50 rooms
have been squeezed into what is essentially a tall thin building, but the result is cosy rather than cramped. The rooms
themselves feature blue carpets, peachy furnishings and
fabrics, TV, minibar, and enough desk-space on which to park
the average laptop. Apartments come with kitchenettes and
extra fold-down beds. Q50 rooms (46 doubles 80 - 110,
suites 200, 2 apartments 210 - 250, 2 Studio: 130).
PHARFKDW hhhh
Sveta Sofia A-2, ul. Pirotska 18, tel. 983 50 33, fax
983 17 23, marketing@hotelsvetasofia.com, www.

hotelsvetasofia.com. A recently renovated nineteenthcentury building on a characterful, pedestrianized shopping
street, this is as pleasant a downtown location as youll find.
The rooms are decorated in bright blue and yellow, with light
and comfortable bathrooms. Note that regular doubles have
showers, luxury rooms come with proper bathtubs. Q76
rooms (singles 90 - 130, doubles 100 - 140, triples 120,
suites 160 - 170, Vip apartment 250). PJHAR
UFEKDW hhhh
Triada G-8, ul. Venera 5, tel. 970 67 67, fax 970 67 10,
info@hoteltriada.com, www.hoteltriada.com. Relatively

new building offering big, light rooms decorated in different
nuances of blue. The top-floor sky bar has excellent views of
Sofias mountainous surroundings. The hotel offers perfect
conditions for business meetings and seminars. Q62 rooms
(9 singles 89 - 99, 48 doubles 119, 5 apartments 140 150). PHARUFLKDW hhhh
Tsarsko Selo bul. Simeonovsko Shose, tel. 816 01

01/0899 914 493, www.tsarskoselo-bg.com. Found
on the busy Ring Road at the foot of Vitosha mountain and
about 20 min by car from the centre and from the cabin lift
(depending on the traffic), this hotel complex is built on 50
000 sq. m. featuring 3 apartment blocks and 8 villas among
lush green areas with artificial lake with fish, tennis court,
football field, outside swimming pool and even a chapel. The
rooms and apartments, with kitchenette, are not too big,
except for the Suite De Luxe which is huge. They are decorated in beige, green or crme colours and hold a king size
or twin beds. The bathrooms are either with shower cabins
or bathtubs and some hold a bidet. The junior suites come
with private sauna for two or more... The hotel complex has
a SPA centre with inside swimming pool, Jacuzzi, Finish and
Herbal sauna, Turkish and steam bath, relax room, ice room,
solarium, fitness hall, massage and cosmetic shops. This is
WHere to stay
a preferred place for sports teams. Q156 rooms (singles
54 - 62, 132 doubles 67 - 75, 24 apartments 87 - 103, 2
Presidential apartments 154). POTHAUFLB
KDW hhhh
Vega Sofia Hotel G-8, bul. G. M. Dimitrov 75, tel.

806 60 00, fax 806 60 09, sales@hotelvegasofia.
bg, www.hotelvegasofia.bg. This swanky modern
4-star lies 4km south of the centre, although its location
at the intersection of broad boulevards ensures that you
can speed in and out pretty effectively. Rooms feature
coffee-coloured decor, neat modern bathrooms with tub,
flat-screen TVs, and desks offering a reasonable amount
of work space. Superior rooms and suites have small
terraces and tea-and-coffee-making facilities. The spiral
staircase, linking the lobby area to caf and restaurant,
adds style and sociability to the hotels public spaces. The
state-of-the-art solarium, fitness centre, and massage
facilities are an additional major plus. Q77 rooms (singles
115 - 135, doubles 135, apartments 165 - 195).
PHAUFLGKDW hhhh
Mid-range
Alexander Palace H-7, ul. Nartsis 1, Dragalevtsi,
tel. 967 11 84, fax 967 31 46, alexader_office@abv.

bg, www.svetasofia-alexanders.com. A small-sized
modern building in the mountainside suburb of Dragalevtsi,
a 20-minute drive from the centre. Rooms are spacious and
the staff seem like a cheerful, helpful bunch. If you want a
relaxing, secluded out-of-town location, then this fits the
bill. Q18 rooms (singles 26, doubles 26, suites 44).
AFLKD hhh
Arte B-3, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 5, tel. 402 71 00,
fax 402 71 09, reception@artehotelbg.com, www.

artehotelbg.com. Opened towards the end of 2006. Arte
occupies an excellent position on a central boulevard,
but is well enough sound-insulated to ensure that Sofias
notoriously screechy tramcars are unlikely to disturb your
beauty sleep. The owner is a bit of an art collector, and
the selection of modern Bulgarian paintings adorning the
hotel hallways and restaurant pretty much justify the establishments name. Rooms are contemporary in style, with
white walls, flat-screen TVs, and terracotta- or chocolatecoloured accessories. Note that breakfast costs an extra
10 per person. Q25 rooms (3 singles 110, 10 doubles
120, 2 apartments 150 - 160, 10 double de-lux 130).
PAGKW hhh
Atlantic H-8, ul. 19-a 2, Simeonovo, tel. 961 34 00,
fax 961 21 32, atlantic@mail.orbitel.bg, www.atlanticbg.com. Located in the relative seclusion of Simeonovo, a
suburb on the lower slopes of Mount Vitosha, this extremely
plush place braced by a pair of fancy turrets makes for an
ideal out-of-town retreat. Bathrooms are on the small side
but rooms are otherwise extremely cosy. The top-floor restaurant offers great views towards the city. Q17 rooms (6
singles 50 - 55, 6 doubles 64 - 69, 8 apartments 75 - 95).
HARFLKD hhh
Bulgari A-2, ul. Pirotska 50, tel. 831 00 60, fax 931
14 77, bulgarihotel@yahoo.com, www.bulgarihotel.

net. Small and friendly spot in a picturesque, cobbledstreet quarter of old Sofia. The tangerine-coloured rooms
are on the small side, but feature TV and, in most cases,
a tiny desk too. Some bathrooms boast a bathtub, others have a Bulgarian-style non-partitioned shower. If you
can, try and reserve the Melnik room on the top floor: its
glass-covered balcony has the feel of a conservatory but
comes with skyline-level views. Breakfast is served on glasstopped tables filled with seashells. The hotel is gay-friendly.
Q13 rooms (12 doubles 85, 1 apartment 160 - 210).
PJARGW hhh
Casa Ferrari Bed and Breakfast C-1, ul. Lulin
Planina 16, tel. 0898 43 67 00, fax 980 84 14, info@

casaferrari.com, www.casaferrari.com. This centrally
located small hotel is situated on a quiet street within walking distance of Sofias main tourist attractions. Decorated
with classic Italian furnishings, an atmosphere is produced
combining luxury with relaxed charm. In addition to the three
tastefully styled guest rooms, is a large, bright breakfast
room, an ideal place for getting the day off to a good start, or
reminiscing about your trips highlights. The married couple,
who serve as your hosts, are congenial and very helpful in
planning the most effective way to see the sights in Sofia.
All-in-all, the Casa Ferrari is a very pleasant home away from
home. Q3 rooms (singles 60, doubles 85, triples 95).
PTJARG hhh
Diter C-3, ul. Han Asparuh 65, tel./fax 989 89 98,
hotel@diterhotel.com, www.diterhotel.com. Located in

a sensitively-restored nineteenth-century house in a quiet
but superbly central street, this is a real find. Rooms come
in mood-enhancing blues and oranges and are equipped with
minibar, TV and safe. Generous provision of desk space is a
major plus, as is the provision of state-of-the-art massage
nozzles in the shower cubicles. The T-shaped room no. 302
(a single) will suit the idiosyncratic travellers down to the
ground. Q21 rooms (7 singles 72 - 88, 12 doubles 98, 2
suites 98 - 108). PARK hhh
Elate Plaza
Elate Plaza H-8, Mladost-1, corner of bul. Aleksan-
dar Malinov and bul. Andrey Saharov, tel. 974 49 48,

sales@elateplaza.com, www.elateplaza.com. Five
minutes drive south from the airport in a residential neighbourhood this is a smallish comfy and charming hotel.
Rooms come in different shapes and sizes, contemporary
in style, decorated in wine-red, with light bathrooms.
Suites have bathtubs. An informal make-yourself-at-home
atmosphere and attentive staff complete the picture.
The fitness centre is an additional plus. Q19 rooms
90 - 120). PHARUFLGKDW hhh
Kapri G-8, ul. Han Omurtag 76, tel. 843 50 73, fax 944
27 72, kapri@fog-bg.net, www.kapri-hotel.dir.bg. Mediumsized and rather intimate hotel in a quiet neighbourhood 2km
east of the centre. Rooms are nicely kitted out in soothing pale
greens and light brown furniture, but theyre a bit on the small
side - the hotel is in a converted family house and everything
seems a tight squeeze. Q20 rooms (8 singles 50, 11
doubles 65, 1 apartment 80). PARKW hhh
21
22
WHere to stay
Kolikovski Hotel C-2, ul. Hristo Belchev 46, tel./fax
980 95 69, hotel@kolikovski.com, www.kolikovski.com.
Located on a cobbled street barely seconds away from bul.
Vitosha, the Kolikovski makes an immediate impression with
its sensuous colours and twenty-first-century-baroque design
deatails. With dark purples and matt surfaces predominating, it makes a nice change from the pastel colours on offer
elsewhere. Although primarily intended as a business hotel,
its definitely the kind of place you would want to end up at
after a successful date. Rooms are reasonably spacious
and feature TV, minibar and desk space. The superior
rooms also have an electric kettle. Q33 rooms (14 singles
100 - 125, 15 doubles 120 - 145, 4 suites 150 - 170).
PTJHARUFLKW hhh
Latinka G-8, ul. Latinka 28A, tel. 870 08 48, fax 870 08
Out of town
SPA Hotel Bankya Palace bul. Varna 70, Bankya,
tel. 812 20 20, fax 997 70 64, hotel@bankyapalace.
com, www.bankyapalace.com. The Bankya Palace
was renovated in 2005 and some parts of it are really
state-of-the-art. Rooms are not too spacious, but are
light and decorated in fresh colours. Most bathrooms
are with bathtubs. The on-site Spa centre offers a large
number of superb remedial, recuperation and relaxation
programs (including aromatherapy, chocolate or honey
massage, wine-therapy and thalasso-therapy). The complex has its own bowling hall and a big outdoor swimming
pool with mineral water. Q73 rooms (19 singles 42
- 53, 41 doubles 53 - 69, 14 apartments 84 - 111).
PHARUFLBKDCW hhhh
56, office@hotel-latinka-sofia.com, www.hotel-latinkasofia.com. Sleek and modern outside, comfy and charming
within, this is an exceedingly good mid-range choice indeed.
About 3km southeast of the centre, its only 5 minutes walk
away from the huge expanse of greenery that is Borisova
Gradina park. Rooms are decked out in mood-enhancing
primary colours and come with telephone, cable TV, internet
connection and mini-bar. Ask for one of the top-floor rooms
with attic ceiling if you want a bit of atmosphere. Q26 rooms
(10 singles 50 - 55, 15 doubles 70 - 75, 1 apartment 80).
PALGKW hhh
shopping mall. The deep carpeted rooms are decorated in

warm colours and come with a lot of desk space. They also
come in irregular shapes, which makes a nice change from the
perfect rectangles on offer elsewhere. The hotel restaurant
looks semi-tropical with its rattan chairs, wooden decking
and house-plants - appropriately enough, it is home to an
enormous green parrot. Q17 rooms (4 singles 75 - 90, 5
doubles 85 - 100, 4 triples 95 - 110, apartments 135 150, 4 luxury 100 - 110). PARGKW hhh
Legends G-7, bul. Cherni vrah 54-56, tel. 961 79 30, fax
Renaissance B-2, pl. Vazrazhdane 2, tel. 957 11 12, fax
961 79 33, info@hotel-legends.bg, www.hotel-legends.

bg. Situated in the Hladilnika district 4km south of the centre, Legends offers all the business-class comforts but has
the added advantages of medum-sized-hotel intimacy and
medium-range prices. The bronzy-brown rooms come with
desk space and bath-tubs. An internet connection for your laptop costs an extra 5 per day. Despite the neighbourhoods
relative lack of decent bars and restaurants, transport links
are good: trams no. 9 and no. 10 will whisk you into town,
while bus no. 66 powers its way up to Aleko on Mt Vitosha.
Q49 rooms (3 singles 64 - 74, 40 doubles 76 - 86, 2
apartments 94 - 104, 4 Apartment houses 104 - 114).
PALK hhh
Lion A-3, bul. Maria Luiza 60, tel. 917 84 00, fax 917
84 01, office@hotelslion.bg, www.hotelslion.bg. This
stately nineteenth-century building overlooks a major road
intersection mid-way between the train station and the centre, and is a great place from which to observe the constant
pulse of pedestrians and traffic if you get a front-facing room.
Many of the rooms have characterful architectural touches
you wont find elsewhere, with bay windows in some, arched
windows in others. Dcor is a bit hit and miss though: some
rooms are inoffensively yellow, others have boldly stripy
wall coverings. Q33 rooms (12 singles 65, 13 doubles
80, 1 apartment 110, 3 single luxury, 4 double luxury).
PJARKW hhh
Lozenetz E-3, bul. Sveti Naum 23, tel. 965 44 44, fax
965 44 45, info@lozenetzhotel.com, www.lozenetzhotel.

com. A contemporary building in a residential area just south
of the city centre. Rooms are light and spacious, although
some of the bathrooms are a tight squeeze. There is a small
but relaxing garden attached to the restaurant. Q31 rooms
(singles 62 - 74, doubles 85, suites 85, superior 68 - 80).
PHARLGK hhh
Meg Lozenetz D-3, ul. Krum Popov 84, tel. 965 19 70,
fax 965 19 71, reservation@meg-lozenetz.com, www.

meg-lozenetz.com. Inviting mid-sized hotel in residential
streets just south of the centre, near the City Center Sofia
957 18 52, renaissance@online.bg, www.renaissance.

yes.bg. If you dont mind a bit of kitsch youll quite like this
place, with its loud colours, copper engravings of renaissance
paintings and retro furniture. Panoramic view of Sofia from the
top-floor terrace. Q29 rooms (14 singles 55, 14 doubles
65, 1 apartment 90). PHAKW hhh
Scottys Boutique Hotel A-3, ul. Ekzarh Yosif 11, tel.
983 67 77, fax 983 32 29, scottyshotel@yahoo.com.

Small, intimate but superbly central hotel in a renovated
house with 16 individually-decorated, colour-coordinated
rooms - the one with zebra-print bedspreads being one of
our particular favourites. Bathrooms are roomier than most,
although some come with showers rather than full-size tubs.
Relaxed atmosphere and attentive staff complete the picture.
Gay-friendly. Q16 rooms (2 singles 55, 14 doubles 65 95). PTARW hhh
Budget
Aris F-7, ul. Knyaz Boris 203, tel. 931 31 77, fax 931
00 19, info@hotel-aris.com, www.hotel-aris.com. Tucked

away in a quiet leafy street but perfectly placed for the train
and bus stations, Aris is a welcome addition to Sofias growing range of civilized but cost-conscious hotels. Rooms are
functional but comfortable, with soothing colour schemes,
reasonably high ceilings, TVs and hairdryers. Apartments
featuring fold-down sofa-beds are perfect for those travelling
as a group or a family. Q18 rooms (12 doubles 55, 4 triples
66, 1 suite 66, 1 apartment 77). PJALW hhh
Brod H-8, Simeonovsko shose 66, tel. 968 19 80, fax
968 19 84, hotelbrod@yahoo.com, www.hotelbrod.com.

A suburban hotel of recent construction offering excellent
value in this price range. All rooms are neatly kitted out in
a mixture of pastel and terracotta shades - luxury rooms
have good-sized bathtubs, while others come with a simple
shower unit. Simeonovsko shose itself is hardly Sofias most
inspiring street, but youll feel quite at home here once the
friendly and helpful staff have told you where the local cafs,
shops and bus-stops are. And taxis to/from here arent going
Where to stay
to break the bank. Q44 rooms (13 singles 45, 27 doubles
55 - 70, 4 suites 80). PHALGK hhh
Harmony E-1, bul. Arsenalski 4, tel. 866 53 77, fax
866 25 37, sofia@hotels-harmony.com, www.hotelsharmony.com. You wont be drowned in luxury here but youll
certainly find everything necessary for a pleasant and restful
stay, and the small scale of the place makes you feel looked
after. Its right next door to one of Sofias most popular indoor
and outdoor swimming pools, which you can use free of charge
the first time, after which a small entrance fee comes into
operation. Q16 rooms (singles 55, doubles 75, suites
85 - 95). PHALK hhh
Madrid G-8, ul. Dragovitsa 12, tel. 944 89 52, fax 943
31 44, hotel@madridbg.com, www.madridbg.com. Intimate hotel in a quiet area just east of the city centre, offering
simply furnished en-suite rooms and little in the way of extras.
Difficult to beat at this price. Q15 rooms (2 singles 20, 10
doubles 28, 2 triples 33, 1 quad 40). PJAW h
Niky C-2, ul. Neofit Rilski 16, tel. 952 30 58, fax 951
60 91, office@hotel-niky.com, www.hotel-niky.com. This
superbly located and friendly place has a lot of admirers,
so be sure to book in advance. The handful of single and
double rooms come with modern furnishings, minibar, TV
and WC/shower. However the majority of rooms are roomy
apartment-style affairs featuring kitchenette and bathtub.
The garden restaurant, famed for its grills, comes into its own
in spring and summer. Q22 rooms (3 singles 40 - 45, 3
doubles 45 - 50, 16 apartments 60 - 105, 1 double luxury
50 - 55). PARUGKW hhh
Pop Bogomil A-4, ul. Pop Bogomil 5, tel. 983 11 65,
fax 983 70 65, hotelpopbogomil@dir.bg, www.bulgariabedandbreakfast.com. Welcoming and intimate place in

an area of cobbled residential streets a few minutes walk
from the city centre. Rooms are on the small side and feature
mix-and-match furnishings that might not quite make it into
the pages of a design magazine, but everything else about
this hotel seems tidy and comfy. Some rooms have bathtubs,
some have showers, so ask in advance if youve got a preference. Breakfast costs a few leva extra. Q10 rooms (doubles
30 - 33). LW hhh
Red Bed and Breakfast C-4, ul. Lyuben Karavelov

15, tel./fax 988 81 88, info@redbandb.com, www.
redbandb.com. An early twentieth-century villa houses the
Red House cultural centre as well as this charming B&B. The
rooms come in a variety of different styles: some feature
soothingly pale decor while others are kitted out in sensuous reds and greens. Toilet and bathroom are located in the
hallway, but you do get breakfast delivered to your room.
The top-floor terrace is a great place to hang out when the
weather gets warmer. Q6 rooms (singles 25 - 35, doubles
40 - 50). RKW hh
RotasaR G-8, ul. Liditse and Kosta Lulchev (at the
corner), tel. 971 45 71, fax 971 45 74, hotel@rotasar.
com, www.rotasar.com. Smallish hotel with a cosy feel, in
a residential neighbourhood 2km east of the centre on the
way to Sofia airport. Rooms come in different sizes and colour
schemes but are all equipped with a small TV, minibar and
bathroom. Colourful contemporary prints in the rooms and
hallways add a bit of character. Breakfast in the downstairs
restaurant costs an extra 3. Q18 rooms (8 doubles 42 49, 7 apartments 62 - 82, 3 studios. PARKW hh
Shipka G-7, bul. Totleben 34A, tel. 915 14 87, fax
953 12 30, shipka_hotel@abv.bg, www.hotel-shipka.
Borovets
Tel.: +359 750 3 20 45
Fax: +359 750 3 26 07
reservations@iceangelshotel.com
www.iceangelshotel.com
com. Twenty minutes walk southwest of the centre, this
Defence Ministry-owned establishment is a bit care-worn
and institutionalised at first glance, but its far from being a
boot camp. Rooms are adequate and come with TV, fridge
and WC/shower: those in the lux category have the added
benefits of plush carpets and jolly colour schemes. The fab
subterranean fitness complex looks like a training centre for
special agents: saunas, steam baths and gym are free for
hotel guests, while a plethora of wellness treatments come
at an extra charge. Q135 rooms (singles 34, doubles 43,
apartment vip 92). PHRFLKD hhh
Sofia Garden Bed and Breakfast C-3, ul. Angel

Kanchev 21A, tel. 987 05 45, art-hostel@art-hostel.
com, www.art-hostel.com. Located in the same centrallylocated nineteenth-century building as the ever-popular Art
Hostel (see Hostels below), Sofia Garden offers simplyfurnished but characterful rooms with wooden floorboards,
distressed chairs and wardrobes, and high ceilings. Toilet
and shower are across the hallway. Theres a communal hall
with homely ceramic stove, and a small kitchen complete
with kettle and toaster. Room price includes breakfast
coupons, which you can cash in at the excellent Kuhnyata
na mama canteen-restaurant just down the street. Q9
rooms (4 doubles 26 - 36, 2 Private rooms 14, 3 Dorm
rooms 10). ARW h
Apartment hotels
Apartment House Dunav A-4, ul. Dunav 38, tel. 983
30 02, fax 983 38 04, reception@dunavapartmenthouse.com, www.dunavapartmenthouse.com. A range

of delightfully light and spacious apartments with parquet
floors, neutral colours, kitchenette, TV and WC/shower.
The 2-bed family apartments on the top floor come with
attractive attic windows. Breakfast can be delivered from
the nearby Tabiet restaurantif youre too lazy to cook your
own. Handily located in a downtown area characterized
by quiet cobbled streets. Q14 rooms (14 apartments
58 - 88). Rates fall dramatically the longer you stay.
PTAR hhh
Apartment House Iztok G-8, ul. Atanas Dalchev 6, tel.

970 01 00, fax 970 01 28, aphouse_iztok@yahoo.com,
www.apartmenthouseiztok.bg. Fully serviced apartment
block on the southeastern fringes of the centre. The smallest studio apartments are no different to a mid-price hotel
room, but providing you steer clear of these you should have
no complaints. Expect lam floors, warm colours, and modern
bathrooms with tubs. Breakfast is brought to your room, and
theres a strip of garden complete with kids play area out the
back. Q32 rooms (4 singles 110, 4 doubles 120, 5 apartments 190, 8 business studios 135, 6 family apartments
150, 5 big family apartments 170). Rates fall in proportion
to length of stay. PTARLKW hhh
Apartment House Sofia G-7, ul. Golo bardo 2-4, tel.
960 28 88, fax 960 28 60, info@aphouse-sofia.com,
23
24
WHere to stay
www.aphouse-sofia.com. Tidy new block in a residential
area just south of the centre, offering comfy apartments
ranging in size from 2-person studios to 2-bedroom family
flats. All have laminated floors, pastel-coloured furnishings, TV,
kitchenette, and bathrooms with full-sized tubs. Apartments
are serviced daily. If you dont fancy self-catering, you can eat
very well at the Carrera restaurant on the ground floor. Q (28
apartments 120 - 180). Long-stay rates are substantially
cheaper. PTARLK
Hostel Sofia B-2, ul. Pozitano 16, tel. 989 85 82,
Apartment rental
Internet Hostel B-3, ul. Alabin 50A, 2nd floor, tel. 0889
138 298, fax 989 94 19, interhostel@yahoo.co.uk. A
place that always seems to be full of nice and friendly young
travellers. Clean and tidy rooms ranging in size from a single
to a six-bed dorm. Its a bit difficult to find at first: enter the
shopping arcade at Alabin 50, look for the plain white door
on your left, then head up the stairs. Q From 9-10 per
person - dorm room, 25-30 double room, 30-35 for studio,
35-40 triple room. R
City Hotels Ltd C-5, bul. Evlogi Georgiev 85, tel. 0888
509 199, office@rentinsofia.com, www.rentinsofia.com.

This firm have around 30 apartments at their disposal, of
varying sizes and at various locations around town. Judging by
the one we saw, furnishings are tasteful, colour schemes are
soothing, and kitchens and bathrooms are fully equipped with
modern gear. Apartments are serviced on a daily basis. Q
The prices range from 40 for one bedroom apts, to 60-80
for a 3-bedroom family dwelling. Prices decrease according
to how long you stay.
Variety E-3, ul. Yoan Ekzarh 20, tel. 963 31 51, fax 866 15
57, office@variety-bg.com, www.variety-bg.com. Variety

offer well over 20 properties in central Sofia and the inner-ring of
suburban districts, with short- or long-term apartments ranging
in size from 2- to 4-bedroom. Interiors are neat and tasteful,
some feature a very high standard of interior design indeed.
The apartments are fully serviced and secure. Q Prices vary
between 40 and 70 depending on the size of the apartment,
with discounts for long term stays. ALW
Hostels
Art-Hostel C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 21A, tel. 987 05 45,
art-hostel@art-hostel.com, www.art-hostel.com. The
original idea behind this little place was that it would be a
hostel-cum-art gallery where people could meet and exchange
ideas. It doesnt always live up to its cultural mission but its
quirky, friendly and central all the same. There are two dormitories equipped with double-decker bunks, and a communal
sitting room with soft furnishings and occasional exhibitions.
The weirdly decorated downstairs cafe-bar is reason enough
to stay. Price includes a modest breakfast (served at a nearby
cafe-restaurant, not on the premises). Q Dorm bed 11,
mattress on the floor without breakfast 5. W
Be My Guest C-4, ul. Ivan Vazov 13, tel. 989 50 92,
bemyguest@mail.bg, www.bemyguest-hostel.com.
Centrally-placed hostel with a rambling collection of rooms
and a cosy if cramped living room. The dorms and doubles
are functional in the extreme but funky ethno furnishings will
make you feel at home. The 5-bed split-level apartment,
decorated with kooky paintings, is well worth getting hold of
if youre travelling as a family or with friends. A basic breakfast
is included. Q 10 -12-15per bed. PLW
hostel-sofia@yahoo.com. Sofias first-ever backpackerfriendly hostel is still going strong, with two floors of pinefloored, bunk-filled dorms (ranging in size from 12-bed to
4-bed) in a central apartment block. It still has the feel of a
cosy private flat, with teddy-bear wallpaper in some of the
dorms, lounge furniture stuffed into the hallway, and a small
but fully-equipped kitchen. Breakfast included. Q 10 per
person. PIKW
Sofia Guesthouse C-3, bul. Patriarh Evtimiy 27, tel.

403 01 00, info@sofiaguest.com, www.sofiaguest.
com. Spacious and relaxing hostel with fresh-smelling, airconditioned dorms, a healthy number of toilets and showers
on each floor, and a big sitting-room-cum-socializing area near
the reception desk. Plus theres a basement breakfast room
and TV room. Use of internet terminal and washing machine
for a small extra fee. Breakfast included. Q 10-18 per
person. PAW
The Rooms A-5, ul. Pop Bogomil 10, tel. 0898 260
316, fax 983 35 08, theroomshostel@yahoo.com.
Quiet little place offering individual single and double
rooms, most of which have an en-suite WC/shower. The
charmingly odd furnishings include some genuine antiques.
The cupboard-sized socializing area (really just a corner
of the hallway) features a lovely crimson sofa that is very
easy to sink into but is virtually impossible to get out of.
Breakfast (often featuring the typically Bulgarian banitsa
cheese pastry) is available for a small extra fee. Q 1015 per person. R
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Hostel Mostel B-2, bul. Makedonia 2A, tel. 0889 223

296, info@hostelmostel.com, www.hostelmostel.com.
Lurking behind an unlikely-looking metal doorway, Hostel
Mostel is one of Sofias hidden treasures, occupying a reconstructed nineteenth-century inn which plonked surreally
in a city-centre courtyard. The simple, mattress-on-the-floor
accommodation is neat and clean: individual dorms can be
booked as private rooms by twosomes or threesomes for a
few extra euro during the low season. The spacious groundfloor social area, including pool table, internet terminal,
kitchen, and oriental, cushion-strewn divan, is a major feature.
Q 10-15 per person. W
restaUrants
New restaurants are opening all the time in Sofia, but
there arent enough good chefs to go round and standards
tend to yo-yo as a result. Service is traditionally on the
slow side, but things are picking up in this department.
The prices in brackets refer to the average cost of a main
course.
Symbol key
P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
E Live music
S Take away
T Child friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas
L Guarded parking
O Casino
M Nearest station
R Internet
6 Animal friendly
Armenian
Egur, Egur B-4, ul. Dobrudzha 10, tel. 989 33 83,
egur@abv.bg. Armenian food, superbly prepared and
presented with old-school elegance, in a restaurant, owned
bys Bulgarian-Armenian jazz singer Hilda Kazasyan. No-holdsbarred carnivores should plump for the Caucasian flame-grilled
kebabs, although theres plenty by way of subtly-spiced
stews and loads of vegetarian options involving aubergines,
peppers, courgettes and other tasty fresh things. Theres
an extensive list of both Bulgarian and international wines,
expensive vintage tipples included. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(20-30Lv). PJA
Bulgarian
Bulgari B-5, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 71, tel. 843 54 19,
fax 846 84 46, bulgarians@abv.bg, www.restaurantbulgary.com. For an elegant dining experience, head for
this historic house crammed full of sepia photographs of
old Sofia. The menu focuses mainly on classic Bulgarian
dishes although theres a number of modern European
choices too. The bow-tied waiting staff seem to know
their business, and the upstairs no-smoking rooms are
genuinely secluded from the rest. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30.
(10-25Lv). PAGW
Divaka C-3, ul. Gladston 54, tel. 989 95 43. The

Savage is extremely popular among younger locals for
its relaxed informal atmosphere and good, inexpensive
food. Theres a big choice of huge salads, the grilled pork
and chicken dishes are dependably delicious, and even
the vegetarian shish-kebab is surprisingly tasty. There
are other branches at C-3 ul. Hristo Belchev 16 (a bright,
minimalistically-decorated place that looks like a smart
canteen for yuppies); and at C-3, ul. 6-ti septemvri 41A.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. (7-12Lv). P
Etno B-3, ul. Alabin 35, tel. 988 75 75, etnoegur@
abv.bg. Spread out in a large basement in the heart of the

downtown shopping area, this is a rather elegant take on a
familiar down-on-the-farm rustic theme. Starched napkins
and fancy cutlery adorn the tables, while garlic and corn
cobs hang on rough whitewashed walls in the background.
The menu aims to provide down-to-earth home cooking
from around Europe (Im sure we saw a Wiener Schnitzel in
here somewhere), although the accent is on Bulgarian meat
favourites - its a nice change to see Bulgarian grill-snacks
given the serious cuisine treatment. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(5-15Lv). PJAIG
Hadzhidraganovite kashti F-7, ul. Kozloduy 75,
tel. 931 31 48, info@kashtite.com, www.kashtite.

com. Hugely enjoyable theme restaurant located mid-way
between the town centre and the train station, consisting
of four large rooms, each designed in the folk style of a particular region of Bulgaria. Traditional musicians drift from
room to room during the course of the evening, ensuring
that no-one misses the show. The lengthy menu covers
just about everything in the Bulgarian culinary repertoire,
and the list of rakias will have you scratching your head
wondering which to try next. QOpen 11:30 - 02:00. (1015Lv). PAIE
Halbite C-3, ul. Neofit Rilski 72, tel. 980 41 47. One of
central Sofias most enduringly popular beer hall-cum-eateries, with a predominantly Bulgarian menu - but without the
kitsch touches you get in some of the more self-consciously
touristy places. Expect instead a relaxing jumble of roughand-ready wooden tables and chairs, a generous choice of
domestic and international beers, and rock or blues on the
sound system. Very popular, so be sure to reserve at weekends. Theres another branch at C-1, bul. Praga 18. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00. (5-15Lv). PGBS
Chevermeto E-3, bul. Cherni vrah 31, tel./fax 963
03 08, chevermeto@chevermeto-bg.com, w w w.
chevermeto-bg.com. Despite its location in the basement
of the greying Hotel Hemus, an evening at the Spit-Roast
Lamb comes across as an entertaining journey into Bulgarian rural ethnography. Traditional textiles are draped across
every surface, and folk groups perform nightly after 8pm.
The sizeable menu includes just about everything in the
Bulgarian culinary repertoire, so there should be something
here to suit all tastes and pockets. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(9-22Lv). PAILE
25
26
Restaurants
Magdanoz (Parsley) B-1, ul. Damyan Gruev 28, tel.
981 14 30. A friendly restaurant furnished with wooden
sitting and beautiful garden. The chef prepares delicious
salads, soups, meat and vegetarian dishes, desserts. They
offer also a nice lunch menu. Try the bolyar meat balls or the
mushrooms filled with cream and yellow chese. QOpen
08:30 - 23:00. 6B
Manastirska magernitsa C-3, ul. Han Asparuh 67, tel.
980 38 83/0899 94 94 00, www.magernitsa.com.. Sheltered in an elegantly decorated nineteenth-century house, the
restaurant offers an imaginative approach towards traditional
Bulgarian cuisine - the owners have collected traditional
recipes from Bulgarian monasteries and reproduced here. Although the menu is so long that it takes an eternity to decide
what to eat, it features a lot of things you wont find elsewhere
and has plenty of choice for vegetarians. Service can be slow,
but you wont find many finer settings for a long leisurely meal.
QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. (12-18Lv). PJAB
Pod lipite D-5, ul. Elin Pelin 1, tel. 866 50 53, www.
podlipitebg.com. One of Sofias longest-established and
most enjoyable traditional restaurants, with a suite of rooms
done out in the style of a timber-beamed small-town tavern.
The menu is extensive and doesnt really have any weak
points - the succulent shashlik-style skewer-grilled kebabs
constitute one particular treat. Vegetarians can assemble
a handsome feast from the courgette-, aubergine- and
pepper-based dishes listed as starters. Service is brisk and
enthusiastic, and live folk music is a feature at weekends.
The place gets packed out even at lunchtimes, so its wise
to reserve in advance. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (8-20Lv).
PILGBSW
Pri Yafata B-2, ul. Solunska 28, tel. 980 17 27, www.
pri-yafata.com. Traditional Bulgarian cuisine served up in

a suite of rooms decked out in folk textiles and nineteenthcentury domestic nick-nacks. Its an excellent place in which
to sample the standard Bulgarian repertoire of grilled meats,
backed up by an array of healthy salads and some superb
spicy bob (baked beans Balkan-style). Some of the cheaper
wines are a bit rough though. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00. (612Lv). PAEW
Czech
Cheshki klub B-5, ul. Krakra 15, tel. 944 13 83. With
Fun
Happy Bar & Grill B-3, pl. Sveta Nedelya 4, tel. 980 73
53. If youre the kind of person who likes bright neon lights,
laminated menues and electric guitars on the walls, then this
is most emphatically the place for you. Expect to dine on grilled
chicken and pork dishes, followed by an array of excellent
sweets. The large choice of alcoholic substances ensures
that this is a popular venue in which to spin out an evening.
Its a huge place thats constantly busy, so be prepared
to squeeze in wherever the wait-staff can find you a place.
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. (6-12Lv). PJABSW
Greek
Kumbare B-3, ul. Saborna 14, tel. 981 17 94/0897 806
390, office@kumbare.com, www.kumbare.com. Pretty

much everything you would expect from a Greek restaurant is
here in abundance, with a succulent repertoire of grilled lamb
and fish dishes accompanied by luxuriant salads - all prepared
under the watchful eye of the head chef. The loud and exuberant music will soon put you in the right mood to dive into the
selection of ouzos and retsinas. Chandeliers, flowers, and
Ionian columns create a winning Mediterranean ambience, an
impression enhanced by the sharp-looking team of young men
in starched white shirts that make up the wait-staff. Kumbares
position on central Sofias main tourist route ensures a constant stream of diners - so youd better make a reservation.
Oh, and just in case you were wondering, Kumbare means
best man, and is also the name of a traditional Greek dessert
prepared from cake fingers, mascarpone and nuts. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. (7-34Lv). PJAEBS
Hungarian
its plain wood furnishings, plain tablecloths and busy waiters,

the Czech Club is one of those reassuringly old-fashioned
places that seems to occupy its own bubble in space and
time - Ruritania in the 1950s being the most likely coordinates. The prices are stuck in the 1950s too - you can eat
handsomely here for the price of a salad in some other Sofia
restaurants. The menu is vaguely central European padded
out with Bulgarian grills. For something authentically Czech
order the goulash or pork served with knedliky - fantastically
filling sliced dumplings. The well-kept Staropramen beer is
another reason to make the trip. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30.
Closed Sat, Sun. (6-10Lv). JGBW
Pri Latsi B-5, ul. Oborishte 18, tel. 846 86 87. Authentic
French
Devette drakona B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 8A, tel. 981

88 78. Ignore the gaudy signs advertising the Gentlemens
Club on the ground floor of the building and head upstairs to find
one of Sofias better oriental eateries. The excellent, if familiar
repertoire of pork, beef and duck dishes has never disappointed,
and the dcors quite nice too: soothing shades of Burgundy
prevail, and apart from a pair of enormous vases each big enough
to house a fair-sized panda, theres a reassuring absence of fareastern kitsch. The no-smoking corner is relatively well secluded.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (4-12Lv). PJGS
LEtranger A-3, ul. Tsar Simeon 78, tel. 983 14 17/0887

523 376, bistrot_letranger@hotmail.com. Homely bistro
offering very reasonable food - good place for a quick lunch or
a more leisurely three-course meal. The chef is a Frenchman
who owns the place together with his Bulgarian wife, so its a
real family restaurant. Good service and meals that live up to
expectations. What more can you say? QOpen 12:00 - 22:00,
Sat 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (14-22Lv). PA
Magyar cuisine, prepared under the watchful eye of Laszlo

Sendi, former manager of the legendary (but no longer standing)
Restaurant Budapeshta. With no more than eight tables spread
over two floors, its a delightfully cozy and intimate setting in
which to enjoy some truly excellent food - try the rich, creamy,
paprika-laden Szekely goulash, followed by shamloi galushki
(fried dough balls covered in syrup). Folksy Hungarian embroidery on the walls and cheerful wait-staff provide the finishing
touches. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (7-13Lv). PGBS
Chinese
restaUrants
Kitayski Drakon (Chinese Dragon) B-2, ul. Ivailo
19, tel. 0899 006 061/983 60 34, vel@vel-bg.com,
www.vel-bg.com. The food is of course Chinese and they
have lots of spicy dishes. The menu is impressive with more
than 200 dishes, most of which have the choice of small or
large portion. For delivery you can order by phone or online.
They have another restaurant on ul. Slavyanska Beseda 3.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (4-10Lv). PB
Magnolia B-2, ul. Tri ushi 2, tel. 987 11 20. Bare-topped

tables and a minimum of dcor provide a suitably functional
environment in which to feast upon cheap, filling and wellprepared food. The menu sticks to tried-and-trusted pork and
chicken favourites - with the welcome addition of some fiery
Sechuan dishes you wont find elsewhere in town. Last time
we were here the staff were playing a sequence of pounding
techno tracks that seemed to be on a permanent loop - if
this was intended as a digestional aid it was certainly a new
one on us. QOpen 10:30 - 24:00. (6-12Lv). PS
Indian
Kohinoor C-2, ul. Han Aparuh 3, tel. 0882 53 25 41,
info@kohinoor.bg, www.kohinoor.bg. 1st street off Hristo

Botev at the Five Corners lies the Kohinoor. And, like its
namesake its a real diamond. The menu is as predictable
as most Indian menus and the food is great. Huge portions
too. Nice spacious downstairs restaurant with great space
between the tables and an excellent bathroom. The bathroom
alone is worth a visit. The food is brilliant. Service comes
with a real smile. And, with a bill that is actually a pleasure
to pay, all in all its worth a visit. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat
17:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (8-15Lv). PJ
Taj Mahal B-4, ul. 11-i avgust 11, tel. 987 36 32, taj-
mahal.bg@gmail.com, www.tajmahal.bg. Very good tikka

masalas, rogan joshes and other familiar dishes in a relaxing
three-storey location. There are plenty of vegetarian options,
great samosas, decent naan bread and other authentic extras.
Although the soothing orangey interior doesnt go overboard
with theatrical touches, the same cannot be said for the
background music, with sitar versions of rock classics looping
through the meal. Most expats agree that the food and service
are some of the best in town, although the bill can be a little
difficult to swallow. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (15-18Lv). PA
International
Bistro Zita A-5, ul. Iskar 86, tel. 846 43 23/0899 190
586, bistrozita@abv.bg. This small restaurant is one of the
few in the neighbourhood. It has two rooms, each with 4-5
tables and 2 tables outside. The seating is wooden and the
chairs have pretty cushions. The music is chill-out, there is a
TV and the bathroom is clean. The staff are English speaking,
welcoming and fast. They offer salads, grilled meat (try the
ribs or the banski starets), fish, spaghetti, pizza and toasts.
They have an interesting choice of alcoholic and non-alcoholic
cocktails and milk shakes. QOpen 8:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun.
(4.20 - 10.00Lv). JGBSW
Butchers C-5, ul. Sheynovo 4A, tel. 0887 104 378. This
place does indeed look like a butchers shop at first glance,
with a bloke in an apron standing behind a counter stocked
with Spanish hams, Mediterranean delicatessen goodies and
fine wines. Behind the counter a private-looking passageway
leads through to a back room filled with distressed furniture
and bohemian-looking wine-quaffing patrons. The menu is
composed of whatever the chef feels like cooking that day:
expect gourmet cold meats, exquisite quiches, and other
Franco-Hispanic treats. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. (5-12Lv).
Decoding the menu

Starters and salads ( )
Shopska salata ( ) sliced tomato,
cucumber, sweet pepper, onion and grated white sheeps
cheese
Ovcharska salata ( ) tomatoes,
cucumbers, peppers, onions, mushrooms, ham, egg
and cheese
Snezhanka () made of strained yoghurt,
cucumber and garlic
Kyopolu (Aubergine puree) () salad of mashed
baked eggplant, peppers, loads of garlic, parsley,
vinegar and sunflower oil
Sudzhuk (), lukanka (), pastarma
() traditional Bulgarian dried salami with
various spices, salt and pepper
Soups ()
Tarator () cold soup with yoghurt, cucumber,
walnuts and dill. Especially popular in hot summer
Bob chorba (bean soup) ( ) well soaked dried
beans, a variety of vegetables and plenty of herbs
Shkembe chorba ( ) tripe soup cooked in
milk with garlic, vinegar and chilli
Zelenchukova supa ( ) vegetable
soup
Meat dishes ( )
Kebapche () grilled minced meat rolls
Kyufte () grilled minced meat balls
Shish Kebap ( ) grilled skewered meat, onion
and paprika
Meshana skara ( ) a Bulgarian version
of mixed grill
Sarmi () cabbage or vines leaves stuffed with
meat
Kavarma () meat and vegetable stew, usually
served in individual pots
Banska kapama ( ) chicken, pork, veal,
cabbage, and rice
Gyuvech () a dish of vegetables and meat baked
in an earthenware pot
Lamb in oven (St. Georges way) ( )
lamb stuffed with pluck and rice, cooked in the oven,
served with green salad
Vegetarian dishes ( )
Sirene po shopski ( ) white sheeps
cheese baked with eggs
Chushki byurek ( ) fried peppers stuffed
with egg and cheese
Kashkaval pane ( ) fried, breaded
yellow cheese
Banitsa () flaky pastry filled with white cheese
Kiselo mlyako ( ) world famous Bulgarian
yoghurt
Deserts and sweets ()
Crem caramel ( ) dessert prepared from
fresh milk, eggs and caramelized sugar, similar to the
classic French crme brulee
Baklava () flaky pastry stuffed with pistachio
nuts in syrup
Kadaif () shredded wheat stuffed with nuts
in syrup
27
28
Restaurants
Cactus C-3, ul. Hristo Belchev 20, tel. 986 74 31/0888
801 452, www.restaurant-cactus.com. Despite the distinct lack of desertson the menu, Cactus earned our seal of
approval with its mainstream European mix of well-prepared
steaks, chicken dishes and pan-fried fish. Low-key lighting and
solid wooden furnishings give the place a relaxing pub-like feel,
and theres additional seating in a bright covered yard out
the back. Good-value all-you-can-eat buffet for Sunday lunch.
QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sun 11:30 - 15:00 & 17:00-23:00.
(9-24Lv). PJAW
Mediterraneo B-5, ul. Oborishte 9B, tel. 944 95 82.

Hidden in the courtyard, in what looks like a cosy garden
shed, is this very suave and comfortable eatery specializing
in southern European cuisine. Theres a generous choice of
pastas, veal-cutlet dishes and fish on the menu, backed up
by an attractive range of desserts. Also, its one of the rare
restaurants in Sofia where they automatically put a bottle of
real olive oil on the table. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (7-25Lv).
PJAEGBSW
Comercial C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 27, tel. 0897 931
couple of kilometres southeast of the centre, Moderato is

worth the trip if you want to savour some of the best pasta
in Sofia, and a top-quality choice of Mediterranean chicken
and fish courses. The second floor seems to be the better
choice in terms of interior - light colours, enough space
between the tables and relaxing atmosphere. The service
was extremely attentive. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (12-20Lv).
PTALSW
291/0899 845 085. Modern European cuisine in a modern

European setting: think whitewashed walls, moody lighting,
minimal furnishings and comfy cushioned benches. The fresh
pasta is very good, but main courses are a bit more hit-and-miss
- lets just say that the duck with orange sauce will get to your
taste buds more quickly than their not-quite-there-yet attempt
at British-style fish and chips. Oh, and portions are on the small
side too. However service is excellent and the location on trendy
Shishman street means that its the perfect place for a bite to eat
after shopping for frocks - or before hitting the downtown bars.
QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. (10-15Lv). PTJA6GW
Cookies bar & dinner cafe C-3, pl. Slaveykov, tel.

488 17 22. A stylish place, where you can have either lunch
(they offer daily lunch menu) or just drink a cup of coffee. It
is a French-style place, with small tables for two and 3 comfortable bars. The caf is airy enough; the staff is a little bit
bored, but beautiful. Theres a large choice of dishes, good
Mediterranean meals, soups, salads and, of course, cakes
and cookies for dessert. You can just sit here, listening to
Italian music and observe the crowds and the trams outside,
without hearing them - the place is situated at the corner of
a very busy area - just in front of Slaveykov square. QOpen
09:00 - 00:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 00:00. PJ
Elate Plaza H-8, Mladost-1, corner of bul. Aleksandar
Malinov and bul. Andrey Saharov, tel. 974 49 48, www.

elateplaza.com. Glass-fronted bar & diner, stylishly designed
in white and dark red colours, with comfortable modern
furniture. Alongside the traditional Bulgarian specialties,
the restaurant offers a huge international menu of salads
and starters, well-prepared steaks and chicken dishes. The
service is helpful and friendly. Its a superb place for a relaxed
drink in the evening with its wide range of wines and spirits.
QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. (8-25Lv). PALBW
Checkpoint Charly C-4, ul. Ivan Vazov 12, tel. 988 03 70,
check_charly@abv.bg. With pictures of cold-war Berlin on the
walls, and copies of Rabotnichesko delo (Bulgarias communistera daily newspaper) used as place-mats, youd be forgiven for
thinking that this was just another ironic post-communist theme
bar. Its actually a great restaurant, offering superbly prepared
chicken, duck and steak dishes, and some delicious vegetarian
concoctions on the starter menu. Theres live jazz at the weekends, and few diners leave here disappointed. QOpen 10:00
- 00:30, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. (15-25Lv). PJAEGW
Kushtata s chasovnika B-4, ul. Moskovska 15, tel.
987 56 56/932 75 95, reservations@clockhousebg.
com, www.clockhousebg.com. Occupying the ground floor
of a historic nineteenth-century home (which does indeed
have a clock tower), the House with the Clock is probably
the most elegant place youre likely to eat in downtown Sofia.
Expensive china, liveried wait-staff and an ambitious hautecuisine menu have made the place popular with Bulgarian
celebrities and the foreign business community - you wont
get in here clad in jeans unless youre a supermodel. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. (20-25Lv). PJALB
Moderato G-8, ul. Atanas Dalchev 6, tel. 970 01 11. A
Otvud aleyata zad shkafa A-3, ul. Budapeshta 31,

tel. 983 55 45, www.beyond-the-alley.com. If we were
to give prizes for atmosphere, this restaurant would be the
undisputable winner. The eccentric name, which literally
means beyond the alley, behind the cupboard, is indicative
of the places quirky nature. The combination of art-nouveau
interior design and friendly informal service has made Otvud
a firm favourite with Sofias artistic elite. The menu is sometimes a touch over-imaginative for its own good, and youre
advised to stick to mainstream meat and fish dishes if you
want to get the best out of the place. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(10-20Lv). PA
Seasons D-2, Hilton, bul. Bulgaria 1, tel. 933 50 62. As
youd expect from an expensive restaurant in an international

hotel chain, standards here are consistently high. The modern European cuisine is as well prepared as they come, the
service is flawless, and the setting strikes the right balance
between comfort and elegance. QOpen 06:30 - 23:30.
(20-30Lv). PAL
Trikrakoto pile B-2, ul. Denkoglu 3, tel. 986 26
53/0884 587 418. Situated on a quiet street, not far from

the bustle of bul. Vitosha, this tightly packed suite of rooms
with no-nonsense wooden furniture is a relaxing and informal
venue for lunch or dinner with friends. The name means
three-legged chicken which explains the strong presence of
chicken dishes on the menu. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. Closed
Sun. (8-12Lv). PJAW
Troyantsite B-5, ul. Shipka 46, tel. 944 19 34, www.

troyancite.com. Relaxing restaurant on two storeys with
soothing creamy-brown dcor and eager-to-please staff.
An international menu of steaks, grilled chicken and freshwater fish dishes is augmented by a well-chosen selection
of Bulgarian specialities - the dzholan (leg of beef baked
in a pot) and grilled buffalo meat balls are hard to fault.
Vegetarians should opt for the zapekanka (tasty cheese
and spinach bake). QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. Closed Sun.
(6-12Lv). PJABW
Uno Enoteca C-3, bul. Vasil Levski 45, tel. 981
43 72/981 46 13, enoteca@uno-sofia.com, www.

uno-sofia.com. Modern European cuisine of the highest order, served in elegant surroundings and backed up
by a truly international selection of quality wines. With
irreproachable standards of service and a conveniently
central location, this ranks as one of the best restaurants
in the city. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (12-35Lv). PJA
LGBW
Restaurants
Vishnite D-4, ul. Hristo Smirnenski 45, tel. 963 49
84/0899 866 730. This tiny, four-table restaurant, located

in a residential area just south of the centre, is a firm favourite
with Bulgarians who know a thing or two about food, so its
wise to book before heading out. Expect flawless service,
elegantly-laid tables piled with classy cutlery and glassware,
and a small but well-chosen menu of modern European dishes,
prepared with flair and imagination. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(18-30Lv). PA
Vratata (The Door) D-3, ul. Kokiche 13, tel. 0889

235 866/866 90 05, vratata@restaurant-vratata.
com, www.restaurant-vratata.com. The restaurant
is situated in a 100-year old house. Very elegant, cozy
and stylish place where, as the owners say, East meets
West. Varied cuisine such as game dishes, different kinds
of European, Greek and Turkish meals and a number of
sophisticated salads and desserts. The wine list is rich
with Argentinean, Italian, Spanish and Bulgarian wines.
The staff are polite, without being slavish. An interesting
and intimate detail is the key. Each client puts their key for
The Door over the fireplace. There are different keys varied
from big and old to small and ordinary. The atmosphere
reproduces the aristocratic, bohemian face of old Sofia.
Among the clients of the restaurant is His Majesty Simeon
Saks - Koburg -Gotha, of the Bulgarian royal family. This is
a place, where you can find elegance, personal treatment
and good cuisine. For sure you will be back. QOpen 11:00
- 24:00. (15-60Lv). PAIGB
Zhadnata lamya D-3, ul. 13-ti mart 2, tel. 964 06 40.
The name means Thirsty Dragon, which we took as an immediate invitation to down several flagons of the excellent
Czech Starobrno beer which is served on tap here. The food
is a mixture of Bulgarian and central European meat dishes,
but the real pleasure of dining here comes from the friendly
service and homely dcor (note the fabulously eccentric
picture gallery lining the walls), all of which adds to a highly
enjoyable atmosphere. Some of the Mexican dishes on the
menu are a bit disappointing, so its best to stick to the
mainstream meat offerings and the Bulgarian salads. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. (6-24Lv). PB
Italian
Alga B-2, ul. Lavele 11, tel. 980 24 89/0888 81 19 80,
alga@abv.bg, www.alga.free.bg. Somewhat hidden behind
the BulBank building at the bottom of Vitosha Boulevard, this
cute little Italian restaurant is well worth a visit. Its run by
Georgio & Russistza, a man and wife team and their Sardinian chef. They will give you a very homely reception before
you tuck into the complimentary olive pesto and homemade
bread. There are only 20 seats, so booking is highly advised.
The restaurant has a very romantic air and would be a lovely
place for a special occasion. The food is superb and the
service is excellent. They have a fantastic wine list to go with
the simple yet exciting menu. There is a garden for the summer months which quickly removes you from the downtown
hassle. All in all, a lovely place and well worth a visit. Prices
are slightly above average. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (8-12Lv).
PJALBS
Gioia B-2, ul. Tsar Samuil 60, tel. 986 08 54, festaitaliana@abv.bg, www.festaitaliana-bg.com. It is
the perfect place to enjoy Italian cuisine with ingredients
imported directly from Italy and desserts, prepared on the
spot. It has a decade of serving clients, behind their backs.
They have both a Bulgarian and Italian menus and the staff
speaks English, Bulgarian and Italian. It seems the owner
is quite concerned if his clients are satisfied by food and
service. The restaurant has 60 seats and is calm, with a

friendly atmosphere. The menu offers fresh pasta, fish and
seafood specialties and the wine list ranges from 30 to
70 Lv. Gioia is definitely on the leading spot in Sofia, when
thinking of Italian food. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. pasta (1435Lv). PAGB
Japanese
Sakura G-7, Kempinski Hotel Zografski, bul. Dzheims
Bauchar 100, tel. 969 24 20. This rather charming place
is located in a pavilion in the garden of the Kempinski hotel.
Its approached over a very picturesque bridge that you might
expect to see adorning a set of willow-pattern crockery. Paper
partitions, low tables (you can kneel on cushions or sit on a
stepped depression under the table) and nimble waitresses
swishing around in kimonos help to set the mood. Assuming
that you havent the time to fly to Tokyo and dine out there,
the impressive range of sushi and main courses is authentic enough. A full meal with sake will set you back a small
fortune by Sofia standards, but for a great evening out with
a difference, its money well spent. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30.
(15-30Lv). PALGW
Sushi Bar B-2, ul. Denkoglu 18, tel. 981 84 42. Conve-
niently situated just around the corner from the fashionable

shops of bul. Vitosha, this smart but affordable oriental eatery
offers a lengthy menu of different types of sushi, all excellently
prepared and accompanied with portions of fresh ginger and
wasabe paste. Ordering a set menu will allow you to sample
a broad range of what they offer. Noodle soups and teriyaki
dishes also available. QOpen 10:30 - 23:30. (3.50-37Lv).
PAGW
Lebanese
Tazka C-1, bul. Makedonia 48, tel. 951 54 29. We took
both a vegetarian and a carnivore to this friendly restaurant
and both came away very happy indeed. The animal lover
feasted on starters like houmous, baba ganouj, a delicately
spiced aubergine and tomato salad, and fatayer (spinach
pies), while her companions bloodlust was more than satiated by the fatteh (chicken, chick peas and herbs covered in
yoghurt). The arak (an aniseed-flavoured spirit which turns
cloudy when you add water) went down very well indeed. Live
music and belly dancing pulls in the crowds at weekends, so
be sure to book ahead. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon.
(18-20Lv). PG
Moroccan
Annette C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 27, tel. 980 40 98/088
513 9676, www.annette.bg. A combination of North African

music, flickering candlelight and star-shaped lanterns should
lull you into the perfect frame of mind to enjoy an authentic
Moroccan menu which takes in tajini, couscous and some lush
healthy salads. Finish off with Moroccan mint tea with cedar
nuts, or a lengthy puff on the narghile. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(8-18Lv). PJAGBSW
Pizza
Classic B-3, ul. Serdika 14, tel. 0878 656 401, clas-
sicpizza1@abv.bg, www.pizzabg.com. Classics simple

recipe of serving palatable pizzas, fresh salads and a handful
of Bulgarian dishes has already proved a hit with locals who
dont want challenging cuisine, but still expect a bit of finesse
as far as service and presentation are concerned. Reasonable prices, friendly service and dependable standards.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (6-20Lv). PJA6GBW
29
30
restaUrants
Fast food
Bakehouse B-4, ul. Ivan Vazov 12. Bright and clean
bakery-cum-cafe serving up banitsa and byurek (Bulgarian flaky pastries) filled with cheese, spinach and other
savouries. Wash them down with a carton of airyan (salty
drinking yoghurt). QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 18:00. Closed Sun. S
KFC B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 28, www.

kfc.bg. For delivery call 933 99 99. Also at B-3 ul. Angel
Kanchev 2, B-3, bul. Dondukov 5. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,
Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PJLB
Kuhnyata na mama C-3, ul. Racho Dimchov 3.
Queue up at the counter for tasty dollops of home cooking

from Mums Kitchen. Slightly pricier than the other fast
food places, but usually worth it. QOpen 09:00 - 21:30,
Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. G
McDonalds RocknRoll D-2, bul. Bulgaria 1,

next to NDK, tel. 0884 000 305/960 40 20, www.
mcdonalds.bg. Restaurant with Juke box, McDrive, found
just next to NDK (National Palace of Culture), under the
Lovers bridge. On the 14th of Feb they organize 24 hour
RocknRoll marriage with McDonalds certificate, a Cadillac drive and surprise present. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
PTJAGBS
Mimas C-4, bul. Vasil Levski 68. Sofias first real
takeaway burger joint and still the best. Its packed at

lunchtimes and remains the venue of choice for after-club
munchies. Burgers come with a wad of deliciously greasy
French fries stuffed inside. Doner kebabs and felafel fill
out the menu. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. JS
Trops Kushta C-4, ul. Gurko 38, www.tropshouse.

bg. If you want a crash course in Bulgarian cuisine
then this ever-reliable order-at-the-counter canteen will
have mass-catering versions of most Balkan dishes on
display. It may be lukewarm, but its cheap. QOpen
08:00 - 21:00. JG
Tsentralni hali B-3, bul. Maria Luiza 28. Head to the
top floor of this covered market to find an array of counters
serving sandwiches, pizza slices, basic grills, and Chinese
noodles. There is no quicker and easier way of stuffing
your face. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PG
Don Domat C-2, ul. Tsar Asen 34, tel. 984 12 70,
don_domat@abv.bg, www.dondomat.com. The name

of the restaurant comes from one of the characters in The
Adventures of Lukcho by Gianni Rodari. This small chain
of restaurants all have a cozy and relaxing atmosphere,
careful service and a varied menu. The owners have taken
care to suit all tastes. In the Don Tomato travel section
you can find dishes from around the world,Don Tomato
weakening is for clients undergoing a diet. They also offer
a wide variety of beer and wine. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00.
(8-12Lv). PJGBW
Krivoto D-2, bul. Bulgaria 1, in subway of NDK, tel.

0885 878 485, krivoto1@abv.bg, www.krivoto.com.
The newest pizzeria of the Krivoto chain is located in a key
position in the subway of the NDK. Here you can enjoy lovely
music and good food. On the menu there is a rich choice of
pasta, pizza and other main courses. The staff are polite,
smiling and uphold the standards of the Krivoto chain. The
pizzeria has outside seating for 50 and inside seating for
150. The interior is quite simple and clean. QOpen 10:30 24:00. pizza ( 4-8Lv), pasta (6-7Lv), main courses (6-18Lv).
PJAGB
Miss Kapriz B-3, pl. Garibaldi, info@misskapriz.com,

www.misskapriz.com. Bright and breezy city-centre pizzeria
popular with lunching shoppers. The pizzas are ordinary in the
extreme, but if your priority is to stuff yourself with low-cost
food in a pleasant environment, you cant go far wrong. For
delivery you can order by phoning 9 12 60 or online. QOpen
10:30 - 24:00. (6-15Lv). PJA
Mon Ami Hipodruma, ul. Bulair 1, tel. 850 60 60/0888
71 88 77, cgs@abv.bg, www.pizza-monami.com. The
main salon for 50 is arranged with wooden tables and bench
seating. The garden area for 70 has wooden seating, a
fountain and big parasols. There is a barbeque and a show
kitchen. They serve pizza and international dishes. Try the
sach (vegetables or meat roasted on hot plate) or the Veal Oso
Buko specialty. No English menus and the staff have limited
English. The cuisine is good and the atmosphere is pleasant.
Order using sign language or use decoding the menu section
on p. 27.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (5-16Lv). PABS
O! Shipka B-5, ul. Shipka 11, tel. 944 92 88, oshipka@
oshipka.net, www.oshipka.net. Rich and varied choice of
pizzas and salads with a few grilled meats and Mexican dishes
fill out the menu. Reasonably pleasant staff, fun surroundings,
and a satisfyingly tangy lasagne that had us coming back a
second time. For delivery you can order by phone 988 87 88.
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. (5-10Lv). PAEGS
Ugo C-2, bul. Vitosha 45, tel. 988 18 92, ugo_@abv.
bg, www.ugo.bg. With matt black tables illuminated from
designer lampshades this is as groovy a place to tuck into
pizzas as youll find in Sofia. The pizzas themselves arent
any better than elsewhere though; they might have Italian
names but thats as near to the Mediterranean as it gets.
Huge salads provide lots of veggie options. Other branches
at C-3, ul. Neofit Rilski 68; and C-3, ul. Han Krum 2. 24 hr
home deliveries at 986 40 00. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
(5-17Lv). PAGW
Victoria B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 7, tel. 986 32 00,
www.victoria.bg. This is many peoples favourite pizzeria in
Sofia due to its generously proportioned pizzas and reasonably high standards (the dough tastes sort-of Italian even
if the toppings dont). Soups, pastas and grilled Bulgarian
staples help to fill out the menu. Tends to get crowded, and
you might have to wait for a table. Also at G-8 ul. Ivan Asen II
66. City-wide deliveries on tel. 911 00 and tel. 0887 911 000.
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. (6-27Lv). PJAB
Russian
Moskva B-3, ul. Lege 2, tel. 980 24 24/0896 860 340,
moskva_@abv.bg, www.moskva.bg. This is the sort of
place which will make you feel totally decadent almost as
soon as you walk in to be welcomed by a crimson carpet,
cherry curtains, elegant staff and live music being played on
a grand piano with violin accompaniment. The music, posh
surroundings, first-class service, and excellent food all combine to create an atmosphere that will transport you back in
time to imperial Tsarist Russia. You are only to be reminded of
the present by the latest bathroom technology and a waiter
hinting the tip is not included in the bill. Expensive, but not
excessively so, and although some of the wine costs far
more than a main course your nazdrave will produce a dull
sound, definitely not the cling of crystal glasses. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. (6-35Lv). PE
restaUrants
Ruski klub E-3, ul. Lozenska planina 22, tel. 866 50
74/0888 626 994. An unpretentious doorway on a quiet

residential street leads through to this cosy little place where
youll be soothed by friendly service and lilting Russian
melodies. Embark on a round of vodkas accompanied by
selyodka (marinated fish) before moving on to the gorgeous,
home-made pelmeni (meat-filled dumplings). Whether you
have any space left for classic Russian dishes like Beef
Stroganoff or the excellent range of sweets is up to you.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.
(8-30Lv). AGBS
Vagabond G-8, ul. Svetoslav Terter 5, tel. 944 14 65.

This is one of those warm and intimate places where you feel
as if you are dining in someones living room while a family
friend busies themselves in the kitchen. Sashed velvet curtains and curious murals of balloons in flight provide added
atmosphere. The menu is European-meets-Bulgarian with
a healthy number of Russian favourites thrown in: a round
of vodka with marinated herrings on toast is the obligatory
way to kick off the evening. The pelmeni are excellent too.
Recommended main courses include Chicken Kiev and
Moscow Cutlets (cheese and ham wrapped in pork then
breadcrumbed), although theres a lot more besides. Mains
are served with an optional variety of weird and wonderful
sauces such as a delicious green sauce flavoured with
spinach and basil. Q Open 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.
(8-26Lv). JIGBS
Seafood
Captain Cook C-1, bul. Pencho Slaveykov 12-14, tel.
954 90 98/0888 181 068, www.captaincook.bg. Fish
dishes in Sofias mainstream restaurants generally leave
a lot to be desired, so its nice to have specialist places
like Captain Cooks around. Its in a slightly out-of-the-way
location, but the delicious range of grilled and pan-fried fish
- both fresh- and saltwater varities - should make the trip
worthwhile. Fish is priced by the 100g - so dont rush to order
until youve inspected whats available in the chiller cabinet
and asked a member of staff to plonk it on the scales. Rather
pricy, but absolutely superb quality. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00.
(10-35Lv). AGB
Tambuktu B-4, ul. Aksakov 10, tel. 988 12 34, info@
tambuktu.com, www.tambuktu.com. A concrete firstfloor cabin stuffed with palm trees and fish tanks, this is a
flamboyantly kitsch setting in which to enjoy good-quality fish
and seafood. The food is prepared in front of the customers
and you can choose the fish from a special window display.
The service is adequate and helpful. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(25-30Lv). PAW
Serbian
Pri Miro G-8, ul. Murphy 34, tel. 943 71 27/889
512 964, www.restaurantmiro.com. Both Serbia and

Bulgaria share a similar culinary repertoire of grilled meats
- its just that the Serbians do it with more style. The
cevapcici (grilled meat rissoles) and pleskavice (minced
meat patties) on offer at Miros are infinitely more succulent and spicy than any thing youll find in a traditional
Bulgarian joint. Aj var (a relish made from aubergines
and hot peppers) makes the ideal accompaniment, and
theres an irresistible range of fiery plum brandies to wash
it all down. Both service and atmosphere are classy, and
an extra personal touch is provided by chef and owner
Miro himself, who likes to circulate among diners to see
who is enjoying what. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. (10-12Lv).
PLGBS
Out of town
Boyansko hanche H-6, pl. Sborishte, Boyana, tel.
856 30 16, fax 955 04 61. Situated in the heart of

the mountainside suburb of Boyana, not far from the
historic Boyana Church, Boyansko hanche is a longstanding favourite among visitors, not least because
its one of the handful of places in the capital where
you can enjoy a reasonably authentic programme of
folk songs and dances. Performances usually start
at 9pm but not necessarily on ever y night of the
week - so phone beforehand if youre going specifically because of the music. The menu of traditional
Bulgarian fare with international-looking steaks doesnt
pull too many surprises, but doesnt inspire many
complaints either. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (8-15Lv).
PTRILEB
Chepishev H-6, ul. Ivanitsa Danchev 27, Boyana,
tel. 959 10 10/0889 051 115, chepishev@netissat.

bg, www.chepishev.com. Consistently good food and
no-expense-spared interior design have helped make
Chepishev one of the citys landmark restaurants.
Traditional-style fireplaces and natural materials such as
stone, wood and wrought iron lend an air of cosiness and
originality to the main dining room. Theres a panoramic
summer terrace too, although proximity to the road
detracts slightly from the desired romantic effect. The
menu changes frequently, but always includes a choice
of traditional Bulgarian dishes based on old family recipes, and a well-chosen selection of modern European
fare. The home-made bread is a must. The wine list is
one of the best in the city, and the restaurant famously
claims to possess the biggest whisky collection in
Eastern Europe - with over 800 brands listed, were
not going to argue. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (9-48Lv).
PAILEW
Lebed ul. Samokovsko shose 83, Pancharevo, tel.

992 30 45, fax 992 34 65, info@restaurantlebed.
com. Five kilometers south of the Coral Swimming
Complex, Lebed (The Swan) was opened in 1961 as
part of the preparations for that years World Student
Games, and has enjoyed near-legendary status ever
since. Once the place where Bulgarias top pop stars
used to entertain diners, it fell into decline until recent
refurbishments provided the old bird with a new lease
of culinary life. The menu (providing you can negotiate
your way through the spelling mistakes) features a
lot of seafood and freshwater fish, although prices
are on the steep side and staff are not noted for their
speed of service. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (10-40Lv).
PALGBW
Vodenitzata Dragalevtsi (next to the chairlift), tel.
967 10 58/0888 818 518, fax 967 50 07, info@
vodenizata.com. Housed in an old mill near the Dragalevtsi chairlift, Vodenitsata is one of those restaurants
thats a destination in its own right. The stone clad
interior is crammed with folksy ornamentation, and the
cuisine consists of superbly prepared and presented
Bulgarian classics. The breezy garden, complete with
water features, turtles and fish, is a great place to while
away a hot summer afternoon. Every night a folklore ensemble provides a thrilling repertoire of traditional songs
and dances, occasionally featuring nestinari dancing
on live coals - dont try and join in no matter how many
rakiyas youve had. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (10-20Lv).
ALEB
31
32
restaUrants
Wine, beer, rakia or boza
what to drink in Bulgaria
Bulgaria has some typical drinks which can be found
only here, and some that have a similar (but not the
same) equivalent abroad. If you come to Bulgaria, we
recommend you to try some of these:
Alcoholic drinks:
Bulgarian wine, which is exported to many European
countries. It is very tasty, with various sorts, some of
which are typical only for this region. We recommend
Mavrud (this sort of wine cannot be found anywhere
else) a strong dark wine, suitable for red meat and cold
winter evenings. Despite the good quality, Bulgarian wine
is not expensive and is very appropriate for a present
from a holiday in Bulgaria.
Bulgarian beer: many regions have their local beers,
most of them with a typical genuine taste, so we suggest
you choose from:
Blagoevgrad
Strumsko pivo
Burgas
Burgasko pivo, Slavena
Lom
Almus, Shopsko, Sofia
Mezdra
Ledenika, MM, Varna, Haberman
Pleven
Storgozia, Ataman, Pleven
Plovdiv
Kamenitsa (Light, Extra, Dark, Red and
Soft), Astika
Shumen
Pirinsko, Shumensko
Sofia
Kmetsko (Light, Wheat, Red, Dark)
Stara Zagora
Zagorka, Ariana, Stolichno
Veliko Tarnovo Nashensko, Balkan, Bolyarka
Rakia is often compared to brandy or tequila, but its
not like anything else. Usually most Bulgarians drink it
in the evening, before or during the meal, accompanied
by salad or pickles. It SHOULDNT be drunk like tequila,
but slowly, sipping, with delight. Most common types
are grape and plum rakia. We recommend you also try
the fig and pear rakia, if you have the chance, which is
unusually aromatic.
Almond liquer (which is slightly similar to amaretto,
but different). It is quite sweet and is recommended
unlimited consumption; however reasonable drinking is
extremely pleasant.
Mastika (similar to ouzo and absinthe, but should be
drunk in a different manner: either with ayran or tarator
(see Bulgarian food section), or with mint liqueur (VERY
good cocktail for sea evenings, however very strong and
can be dangerous for inexperienced drinkers. Actually it
doesnt give you a feeling that youre getting drunk; you
just suddenly realize that this is a fact.) This drink contains
anise and has a sweet flavour.
Swiss
Chalet Suisse G-9, bul. Botevgradsko shose 50, tel.
0884 249 450, info@chaletsuisse.eu, www.chaletsuisse.

eu. A must visit place for all cheese lovers. In case you are new
to this kind of cuisine, no worries, the friendly staff will help you
out and maybe even the Swiss owners themselves. They offer
traditional Swiss cheese-fondue, Kirschli, swiss salads, Beundnerfleisch, deer steak, baked apples and more. The restaurant
indeed looks like a Chalet with wooden seating. Once inside you
will forget the surrounding neighbourhood blocks. Not far from
the centre, on the road to Varna. After the Eko Petroleum gas
station turn right, you can not miss it. QOpen 19:00 - 24:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. (8-25Lv.).
Vegetarian
Dream House B-3, ul. Alabin 50A, tel. 980 81 63,
dreamhouse_bg@yahoo.com, www.dreamhouse-bg.
com. This bright and cheery first-floor restaurant is initially
a bit difficult to find: once youve entered the small shopping
mall at ul. Alabin 50 you need to pass through the white door
on your left and proceed up the murky stairwell. Dishes range
from a deliciously delicate bamboo soup to savoury spinach
balls, and tofu in various sauces. Flavours are on the bland
side - our biryani needed a jug-full of chilli sauce to help it go
down. On Sunday afternoons theres an all-you-can-eat buffet
for 7 leva. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (7Lv). PAGW
Kibea C-3, ul. Dr. G. Valkovich 2A, tel. 980 30 67, www.
kibea.net. Theres always at least one meat dish on the

menu at this upmarket healthfood restaurant, but its the
exquisitely prepared vegan and macrobiotic dishes that get
top billing. The cool minimalism of the interior provides the
perfect environment in which to focus on the classy concoctions which have made head chef Elliot Prag something of a
local celebrity. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (7-40Lv).
PAG
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Soft drinks:
Boza (actually with Turkish origin, but the Bulgarians
drink it for so many years that it can be considered local).
It is prepared from fermented wheat or millet. Its colour is
beige and its taste is sweet-sour taste (some foreigners
find it quite peculiar).
Bulgarian yogurt (this is different from any other yogurt;
people have tried to export the world famous lactobacillus
bulgaricus (named so because it was discovered in
Bulgaria); the result was a different taste.)
Ayran (traditional local drink prepared from yogurt, salt,
water, sometimes pepper). This is a very refreshing drink
good both for heat and chill.
34
CafS
Art Club Museum B-3, ul. Saborna 2, tel. 980 66 64, museum2006@abv.bg. Hidden away in a semi-submerged annexe
of the archaeological museum, this is the ideal place to take a
breather between bouts of sightseeing. Alongside coffee and
cakes theres a full menu of salads, snacks and alcoholic drinks,
making it a good spot for a leisurely lunch. Dont leave without
taking a look at the downstairs no-smoking area - with comfy
chairs positioned beside artfully-lit Roman gravestones. It looks
like a cross between a lounge club and a recently excavated
tomb (although whether any wait-staff ever make it down here is
another question). QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PABW
Before & After C-3, ul. Hristo Belchev 12, tel. 981 60
Laguna (Vienski salon) C-3, ul. Hristo Belchev 13, tel.
980 30 01, www.laguna-bg.com. Welcoming two-tier caf

whose in-your-face kitsch furnishings will leave you grasping
for words fit to describe them. Our editor compared this place
to a mid-seventies Dr Who set, but his glamorous assistant
was too busy screaming to take any notice. This is a great
place to come and pig out on pancakes but not everything in
the picture-book menu is quite as it seems: the non-alcoholic
fruit cocktail drinks taste as if theyve been poured straight
out of a carton (but then with names like Virgin Sex on the
Beach they seem destined to leave you unfulfilled). QOpen
10:30 - 24:00. (4-10Lv). PJG
88/0889 966 689, beforeandafter@abv.bg, ba.clubcabaret.net. With art-nouveau wall decorations, and furniture that wouldnt look out of place in nineteenth-century
Paris, this place is a world away from central Sofia. Expect
coffee strong enough to give an elephant heart palpitations,
luxuriant hot chocolate, and an appetizing range of salads and
snacks. The place is frequently taken over by tango lessons
in the evening, which helps explain the alluring photographs
of buttock-waggling dancers adorning the walls. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00. (3.50 - 7.00Lv). PTJAR
Lavazza Club B-2, bul. Vitosha 13, tel. 987 34 33/0887

979 890, www.clublavazza.com. Situated in downtown
Sofia this place is already crowded since early in the morning.
Its two floors, charming garden and young pretty waitresses
obviously make it a preferred location by everybody from
young couples to business people and foreigners alike. The
menu list offers a big selection of coffee, cappuccino, cocktails, sandwiches and fresh pastries and creams. Yummy.
QOpen 07:30 - 23:00. PABW
Bulgaria B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 4, tel. 988 53 07. Tak-
coffee and juice bar thats perfect for jump-starting your day.
Ciabatta sandwiches, muffins, cookies and more. QOpen
07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
ing up most of the ground floor of the Grand Hotel Bulgaria, this
is a comfortable and rather stately place in which to overdose
on caffeine and sweets. Slightly more expensive than average,
but well worth bearing in mind if youre planning a posh citycentre rendezvous. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PTJAW
Coffee House B-4, ul. 6-i septemvri 1, tel. 986 66 12.

Modern-style coffee-shop with a decent line in drink-in or
takeaway espressos, lattes, mochas and the rest. Mouthwatering cakes and freshly-made sandwiches are superior
to the standardised fare on offer at some of Sofias other
high-street coffee shops. Vivid comic-book murals by graphic
artist Yasen Zgurovski give the Coffee House an absolutely
unique vibe. Also at H-8, Business Park Sofia. QOpen 07:30
- 20:00. PJBW
Costa Coffee B-3, ul. Aleksandar Batenberg 10B. This
lovely place located close to the entrance of the City garden
and Ivan Vazov National Theatre is part of the world famous
coffee shop chain. Excellent coffee, cakes, easy listening music and the usual set of cafe snacks. QOpen 07:30 - 21:30,
Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:30. PJABW
Fix Mix C-3, bul. Vasil Levski 24, tel. 987 31 71, fixmix.
culture@gmail.com, www.fixmix-culture.com. City-centre

juice bar boasting over 30 different fresh-fruit concoctions. Drinks
with names such as Berry White, Macy Grapefruit and Tangerine
Cream should appeal to the music obsessives among you. The
interior is as fresh and funky as the drinks, with citrus colours
predominating, and a mixture of house and break-beat music
provide a suitable snazzy soundtrack. You can choose to rotate
on one of the silver swivel-stools at ground level or flop in one of
the sofas situated on a raised platform. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PJGSW
Jimmys (Sladoledena kushta) C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev
11, tel. 980 30 99, daskalova@jimmys.bg, www.jimmys.

bg. This stylishly furnished little spot is the best place in town
for grossing out on fresh, well-made ice cream. Some of the
fancier items on the menu feature ambitious flavour combinations that dont really come off, so its best to stick to the
scoops you can see in the chiller cabinet. The mouth-watering
range of cakes and hot drinks will not leave you disappointed.
Home deliveries at tel. 854 88 88. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00,
Sun 10:00 - 24:00. PTGBS
London Minute B-2, ul. Pozitano 7. International-styled
Lucky (Vienska sladkarnitsa) C-5, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 21, tel. 943 33 44/0889 506 251. Bright, roomy
and rather elegant caf with a generous choice of fancy
cakes and other sinful goodies. Floor-to-ceiling windows
make this a good vantage point from which to observe the
traffic pulsing across the Orlov bridge. Waitresses dressed in
fetching Bulgaro-Tyrolean dirndls help to complete the picture.
QOpen 08:30 - 22:00, Sun 10:30 - 22:00. PJAW
Onda Coffee Break B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 8, tel.
987 49 20. This coffee bar is a bright, comfortable and really quite groovy place offering order-at-the-counter lattes,
macchiatos, muffins, cookies, and other comfortingly familiar
concoctions. Surprisingly for Bulgaria, the sandwiches in the
chiller cabinet are actually edible. The upstairs lounge comes
with a great view of the Russian Church and its pimply bouquet
of domes. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. (5-10Lv). PJGW
Starbucks caf C-4, Corner of ul. Gurko and bul. Vasil
Levski, tel. 986 32 94. When you enter the newly opened
Starbucks caf you may forget that you are in Sofia - it looks
exactly the way it looks all over the world and what you expect
it to be - coffee aroma, young staff and loads of delicious cakes.
There are seven tables outside, where even in winter you
can enjoy your coffee break, despite the awful traffic around.
QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00. PJGBW
The Bookies C-1, ul. Dospat 37, tel. 851 90 87. Great
little place directly across from the NDK, off Vitosha Boulevard. One of, if not the, finest gardens in Sofia. Beautifully
enclosed just off the boulevard, the garden was designed
by the owner and she has created a real beauty. Wooden
2 seater swing, a couple of trees, plenty of sundry flora
and greenery augment the directors chairs and sofas. Its a
beautiful sun trap too with some great shade. They knock
up a fabulous Mojito, amongst other cocktails, and they do a
really top coffee. The garden seats about 40. The bar inside
is a lovely little place. It seats about 20 and has a real coffee
house atmosphere with bookshelves on the walls. The locals
will greet guests with open arms, and much fun has apparently
been had down The Bookies. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat,
Sun 09:30 - 24:00. JBW
Nightlife
Sofia is simply swarming with quirky watering holes, cool
designer bars and dance-till-you-disintegrate clubs. Just
try not to get carried away.
Bars
Adams Bar A-5, ul. Vrabcha 28. This is a small heavy
metal pub in the centre of the capital. The heavy sound of

thrash, death and black metal makes the stay there a real
feast for the connoisseurs. Friendly staff, extensive variety
of cold beer, foosball and darts guarantee the great mood
of the guests. Usually between 20 and 22h it gets quite
overcrowded.
Adams restaurant B-2, Tsar Samuil 103 (The corner of

ul. Pirotska ). This is a bar-restaurant with heavy metal music. Its location is very central - in the middle of Pirotska street
market. The cuisine is very good, especially Tripe in butter.
The atmosphere is friendly and cozy and food and beverages
are not expensive. Just the opposite of luxurious.
Apartament 52 C-3, ul. Parchevich 52, tel. 0896 652
087. Sinking into the comfy corner sofas of this lounge bar is
a pleasant way to end a hard day pacing the mean streets of
central Sofia, although there never seems quite enough going
on here to keep you for more than a couple of drinks. A good
place to kick-start the evening before moving on elsewhere.
QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. JAGBW
Apartment C-3, ul. Neofit Rilski 68, tel. 0886 655 093.
Theres nowhere else quite like this spacious, high-ceilinged
nineteenth-century flat, each room of which is decked out with
the kind of artworks and furnishings that youd expect to find in
the home of a slightly wacky friend. Theres an internet terminal
in one lounge, play-your-own-vinyl DJ decks in another, and a
space devoted to film projections too. If you want a drink, head
for the kitchen to see whos in charge of the fridge. Theres
usually some form of exotic daytime snack food on offer: recent
choices have included houmous with pitta bread, and platters
of sushi. Be sure to try the delicious homemade chocolate
desserts. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. JGBW
Barabar B-5, ul. Shipka 43A, tel. 0886 787 982. This small
but perfectly formed caf-bar may well be a 15-minute walk

east of the centre, but its cosy-living-room atmosphere makes
it well worth seeking out. The vintage Bulgarian film posters
on the walls make a great change from the beer adverts and
commercial logos cluttering up other establishments of this
ilk. The Bulgarian-Scottish bar crew serve up excellent toasted
sandwiches too. On Fridays there is live music. QOpen 09:30
- 24:00, Sat 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PE
Basic C-3, ul. Neofit Rilski 55, tel. 986 36 72. The wel-
coming array of deep white sofas will lure you into this stylish
little spot just off ul. Rakovski - just make sure you dont end
up squatting on one of the cube-sized pouffes otherwise youll
have backache come the morning. Theres an appetizingly
wide range of cocktails and spirit shots, and the designer
toilet is cool enough for even the sassiest of supermodels
to feel proud to drop their pants in. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. AP
Baskerville B-2, ul. Denkoglu 16, tel. 986 60 62, an-
ipink@mail.bg. Take it easy, there are no mysterious dogs

in this friendly and tastefully furnished small bar. We can
imagine, though, Holmes and Watson sitting here and having
tea while looking at the retro pictures hanging on the walls.
Not the best place for a raucous Friday night out, perhaps,
but perfect for a cosy intimate drink. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00.
PJGBW
Bilkovata C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 22, tel. 986 49 05.

Hardly anyone remembers the herbal pharmacy which once
stood here (Bilkovata means The Herbal), but the basement bar on this spot is one of the most frequented places
in Sofia. Its sparsely furnished, smoky, and overcrowded at
weekends, but a combination of off-the-wall background music
and gregarious drinkers lurching around help make it one of
those cult Sofia locations that you have to visit at least once.
QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PJBW
Blaze C-4, ul. Slavyanska 36, tel. 0888 354 004. This
brash, tight squeeze of a DJ bar has been around for years
and never seems to be in danger of going out of fashion. If you
are dying to meet young trendy locals then youre in the right
place here. Getting a drink at weekends can require superhuman patience, and waiting for the toilets can take some times
so long that youre on first-name terms with everyone else
in the queue by the time you finally penetrate the porcelain
sanctuary. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. PW
By The Way C-3, ul. Rakovski 166, tel. 980 38 36,
bytheway@faria.bg. If you really care about the quality of

your cocktails then this split-level bar is the place to come.
The setting is stylish and cosy, and the high proportion of
beautiful young things among the clientele makes it the
perfect place for people-watching. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. PAW
Cappuccino bar & dinner B-2, ul. Pozitano 8, tel.

0896 645 362, www.barcappuccino.net. Despite its
short life, Cappuccino seems destined to become one of the
most crowded new additions to Sofia. Preferred for business
lunches, dinners, parties or just for a cup of coffee or excellent cappuccino, the interior is a mixture of expensive Italian
furniture with a classical combination of midnight black and
crisp white, delicate lighting and enviable sound system. The
long menu specializes in Italian dishes, complemented by an
excellent selection of wine from all over world and a variety
of cocktails, among the well-founded reasons this place will
be sure to please even the most capricious visitors. QOpen
08:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:30 - 24:00. PAGW
Cargo B-3, ul. Saborna 11, tel. 986 46 46. A relatively
recent addition to the Sofia lounge-bar scene, offering pretty
much what you would expect from the genre: moody lighting,
furnishings straight out of a lifestyle magazine, and a pair of
DJ decks standing proudly in the corner. The dark tones of the
dcor and impressive range of spirit bottles behind the bar
make this an excellent place to sink into a sofa for a couple
of hours. QOpen 08:30 - 05:00. PAW
Casa de Cuba E-2, ul. Tsvetna gradina 1, tel. 963 22
97/0885 455 633, casa.de.cuba@gmail.com, www.

casadecuba.bg. Cuban and other Latino music bursts out of
every single loudspeaker this bar invested in, making it practically impossible to have a four way conversation around a
small round table. The interior aims to provide an atmosphere
of pre-Cuban revolution with hundreds of miniature B&W
35
36
Nightlife
pictures showing the heros of these days. Seats are from
comfortable to the wake me up when the bar closes category.
Cocktails like Mojito and Cuba Libre could be mixed to the
more traditional recipes with a little more alcohol. The place
is spiced up by the cigar smoke picked from the pura menu
list. The waitresses serve at pace the 60 in- and 20 outside
places. QOpen 08:00 - 01:30. PJABW
Club 703 C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 23, tel. 981 97 75. With
its dim lighting, wine-red walls and hypnotically revolving ceiling fans, 703 has long been one of the best spots in the centre
for a relaxed, leisurely drink. Black-and-white photographs of
mid-twentieth-century events and personalities add an air of
class to the place, although the vintage Lucky Strike posters
overlooking the non-smoking section seem to be a deliberate challenge to ex-addicts - who will probably be biting the
furniture in frustration. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PJ
Chillout Bar & Dinner B-3, ul. Triaditsa 5, tel. 980 02
03, diner@chilloutbg.com, www.chilloutbg.com. A large

lofty space with matt black walls, slender silver pillars and
soft-cushion sofas, Chillouts new city-centre venture looks
like an inviting cross between medieval khans reception
chamber and twenty-first century living room. With the same
menu as its sister bar on ul. Baba Nedelya, Chillout is a good
spot for downtown lunch, although its the prospect of evenings spent gurgling ones way through the cocktail list that
holds out most promise. QOpen 08:00 - 04:00. PAW
Chillout Lounge D-6, ul. Baba Nedelya 6, tel. 953 35

04, club@chilloutbg.com, www.chilloutbg.com. Drinking in Chillouts black, red and blue interior is a bit like living
inside an abstract painting. The place certainly lives up to its
name, however, thanks to the moody sounds emanating from
the CD player and the laid back, glamorous-without-puttingtoo-much-effort-into-it clientele. The drinks menu includes
some potent and inexpensive cocktails, and food (including
toasted sandwiches and savoury wraps) is served until about
10pm - at which hour DJs turn up and start upping the tempo.
QOpen 08:00 - 04:00. PJABW
Theres a huge menu of cocktails and spirits, and a selection

of light dishes if youre hungry. The service lags, especially
when the place fills up with Sofias fashionable set, but then
youll never be short of beautiful people to look at. QOpen
10:00 - 02:00. PAW
Nero E-1, bul. Vitosha 180, tel. 953 10 01, fax 952 04
39, nero@nerosofia.com, www.nerosofia.com. The bercool black and white interior looks a bit cold and unwelcoming
at first sight, but once youve settled into your designer chair
youll find this place as comfy and relaxing as style bars
come. Its certainly the only place in Sofia that has a huge
vinyl-upholstered foot inside the door. The food menu includes
some excellent pastas and risottos, although portions are on
the teeny side. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. PALGBW
Opera B-4, ul. Rakovski 113, tel. 988 21 41, opera@
mail.bg, www.opera-bg.info. This classy designer bar in the

basement of the National Opera is well worth looking in on at
the weekends, when DJs spin plastic and revellers flock round
the bar. At other times it looks like a furniture showroom, with
rigid lines of fancy chairs and couches and not many people
sitting in them. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PAW
Orisha bar & dinner B-2, ul. Solunska 50, tel. 953 32
94/0886 31 88 91. This is a warm and welcoming place
situated in the city center, near bul. Hristo Botev. The menu
offers a wide range of cocktails from all over the world with
vodka, whisky, rum, gin, tequila and champagne. Most popular
of them are Bronx Perfect, Alabama Slammer, Original Singapore Sling and a favourite of the American writer, Hemmingway
Special. The names of the food from the menu are long and
descriptive, with exotic sounding words. Seafood and chicken
dishes are predominant. The bars name is interesting. An
Orisha (orixa) is a spirit reflecting a particular aspect of God
in the belief systems of Candomble in Brazil, and Santeria and
Luccumi in Cuba and Puerto Rico among others. A friendly
owner as well as house and chill out music add to the cozy
atmosphere. An excellent place for business meetings and
private parties. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PW
McCarthys B-3, ul. Alabin 50A, tel. 0878 666 130,

info@mc-carthys.com, www.mc-carthys.com. Finally an
Irish bar run by authentic Irish men. Just 10m from McDonalds
(on bul. Vitosha), turn right into the arcade, the first door to
the left - you will see the sign. Climb the stairs and you will
dive right into the clamour of the cheerful crowd. It seems
that time has stopped here - laughter, dancing and singing
replace the hectic life outside. The place is cosy, decorated,
the owners claim, as an old style Irish pub from the 70s,
no annoying TV-sets to keep you from singing along. Large
windows present you with a spy view to the Court House
and the busy Alabin street. Pints of beer, great atmosphere,
cool people, live music on Sundays. This place is simply a
must experience. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00.
PJEW
Tea House (Chay vav fabrikata) B-4, ul. Georgi
Mediterrani C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 37, tel. 0897 931
Toba&Co B-3, ul. Moskovska 6A, tel. 989 46 96. Head
291. Were not sure what they have to do with the Mediterranean, but the combination of whitewashed walls, black
couches and mellow music put us in the right mood to embark
on a relaxing evening of alcohol-oiled conversation. Initially
a bit difficult to find: head into the courtyard of the Mamma
Mia pizzeria and dive down the stairs to your immediate left.
QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PAGW
Motto B-4, ul. Aksakov 18, tel. 987 27 23, motto_bg@
hotmail.com, www.motto-bg.com. The red-brick walls,

comfy sofas and designer lampshades of this roomy bar and
diner attain just the right mixture of snazziness and comfort.
Benkovski 11, tel. 0887 051 080. Located behind an

unlikely-looking metal door (look for the sign hanging above),
this combined caf and art gallery is the perfect place to wind
down over a brew. Yogi tea, of which innumerable varieties
are available, seems to be the house favourite, although
there are several beverages of a more alcoholic nature to
get acquainted with too, Antique furniture and oil paintings
combine with post-industrial design touches to produce a
slightly distressed, bohemian vibe. Theres usually some form
of non-mainstream music on the CD system (world music, jazz
or similar), and an irregular programme of off-beat musical
events. Indian-influenced vegetarian food makes a welcome
appearance on Thursday evenings. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00,
Sun 11:00 - 18:00. PE
round the back of the National Art Gallery and youll come
across this curious little caf-bar, occupying the cast-iron
pavilion in which the mercurial Tsar Ferdinand once kept his
butterflies. The cocktails arent that great but who cares; everything else on the menu is perfectly drinkable, the wooden
chairs add a dash of Parisian-caf charm, and when DJs turn
up they usually spin something more interesting than Top-40
teen fodder. QOpen 09:00 - 06:00. PB
Tunka Chervena Linya (Thin Red Line) B-1, ul.

Vladayska 27. This bar named after the movie Thin Red
Line used to be on ul. Graf Ignatiev close to bul. Vitosha.
Nightlife
They moved to a bigger place on two floors. One floor is up

the stairs and has a rectangular bar. The other floor is down
the stairs where most of the action takes place. The place
is murky and is decorated with movie posters from the Lord
of the Rings, The Abyss, The Raven and others. This bustling
bar offers all kinds of alcohol and entertainment. There is a
pool table, table football and a flat-screen TV always tuned to
a sports channel. The music is alternative and rock from the
90ies, sometimes they play hip hop, but you will definitely not
hear MTV hits. The service is good and the stuff is friendly.
QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. PG
Bitburger C-3, ul. Stefan Karadzha 20, tel. 981 96 65,
Upstairs C-2, bul. Vitosha 18, tel. 989 96 96, upstairs@

uno-sofia.com, www.uno-sofia.com/upstairs. First-floor
bar overlooking Sofias busiest downtown shopping street,
with comfy lounge-bar furniture inside, and a line of stools
along the verandah providing the perfect vantage point from
which to observe the goings-on below. Theres a menu of
fancy food, and a list of cocktails that runs to several pages.
Glamorous without making too big a deal out of it, this is just
what boulevard Vitosha needs. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Sun
10:00 - 02:00. AW
Flannagans B-4, Radisson SAS Hotel, pl. Narodno sabranie 4, tel. 933 47 40, flannagans.sofia@radissonsas.
com. Unusually for an establishment located on the ground
floor of an international hotel, Flannagans succeeds in being
a lively and welcoming venue, even if the prices are a touch
more expensive than elsewhere in town. The draught Guinness and Kilkenny are well-kept enough to keep you coming
back, and the menu of quality pub food is better than the
fare offered by many of Sofias international restaurants.
Major international sporting events are given the big-screen
treatment. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. PAW
Pubs
Amsterdam C-3, ul. Hristo Belchev 38. A small metal
club of 6 tables in a quiet street in the centre of the capital.

In summer outdoor tables are also available. Varity of beers
is offered at normal prices. However the menu is available
only in Bulgarian, but the owner of the place (usually residing
there) speaks English and enjoys communicating with the
clients. If clients are hungry, they can order grill dishes, or at
lunch time they can try the lunch menu (soups and cooked
meals). QOpen 10:00 - 22:30.
fax 980 87 99, bitburger@einet.bg, www.bitburgerclub.

com. German-designed beer-hall with German beers on tap
and a loyal clientele of German-speaking expats. Its also
popular with the rest of Sofias international community,
not least because its one of the best places in town for
watching big-screen sporting events. Theres a good choice
of international food on offer ranging from wrst (German
sausage) to big juicy steaks. Weekends are traditionally live
music events. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 03:00.
PAEGW
Irish Harp B-2, ul. Sveta Sofia 7, tel. 989 92 26, www.
irish-harp.biz. Smart but slightly lived-in, and with friendly staff
always ready to ask whether you need a refill, this is the kind of
pub that youll find yourself drifting back to whether youre eager
for ex-pat chit-chat or simply in need of a relaxing drink. Murphys
and Guinness on tap, and the fancy drinks and cocktails arent
bad either. With several TV screens tuned to sports channels,
this is an ideal place to catch live matches, or simply nervously
await the incoming football results on Saturday afternoons.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PJALEW
37
38
nIGHtlIfe
J. J. Murphys B-2, ul. Karnigradska 6, tel. 980 28
70, fax 980 08 60. Restrained lighting, lots of dark-brown

wooden furniture, and a variety of environments (you can
either prop up the bar, watch football on the big screen, or
sit in a quiet corner) all help make this place a comfortingly
familiar home-from-home. They pull a mean pint of Murphys,
and if Bulgarian cuisine has left you pining for Sheperds
Pie, this is the place to tuck in. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
PEGBW
Magelan B-4, ul. Parizh 10. A very small rock pub (about
3-4 tables) hidden in a basement of a building, just opposite

to a noisy former restaurant called Barbeque COOP (reminding
to us for the communist times). Quite a rich menu in Bulgarian
is available in the pub, with a surprising variety of skillfully prepared and tasty at quite low prices. Nevertheless the lack of
ventilation, the atmosphere is cosy and friendly, maybe due to
the guitar, narghile, extravagant interior and mainly the young
English-speaking staff. QOpen 20:00 - 02:00. IB
Clubs
4km Party Centre G-9, bul. Tsarigradsko shose 111,
tel. 870 07 75, office@jetcat.bg, www.4-km.com. Cavernous club in a renovated military installation on the way
to Sofia airport, with a huge main dance-floor and a smaller
lounge-like bar. Attracts international house and techno DJs
at weekends when admission fees rise accordingly. However
its miles away from anywhere and there are no other bars
or clubs in the vicinity - so youd better check whats on here
before forking out for a taxi and waving goodbye to the rest
of your wallet at the entrance. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Admission: 10-30Lv. PLB
Alcohol B-4, ul. Rakovski 127, tel. 0888 655 500. An
unmarked passageway on ul. Rakovski leads down to this

vast barn of a place, regularly filled to bursting with adrenalinecharged, hedonistically-inclined Sofians. An anything-goes DJ
policy keeps the dance floor constantly packed. If it gets too hot
and crowded you can always head for the chill-out room (to the
right of the coat-check), where you can sprawl on oriental divans
and puff away on a hookah pipe. QOpen 18:00 - 05:00.
Babbles C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 22, tel. 980 65 79, www.
babblesclub.com. Ultra-fab designer bar which looks like a
space-ship, a childrens cartoon or a kooky Sixties film set, depending on how many drinks youve had already. Its the brainchild
of owner Kremena Halvadzhian, who also happens to be one of
Bulgarias top stylists. The lively atmosphere is backed up with
house music supplied by popular Bulgarian DJs. If the cheerful
colours arent enough to cheer you up, you can resort to a classical cocktail or straight drink. QOpen 17:00 - 00:00.
Black Box B-2, ul. Pirotska 5. Boasting three dancefloors,
chillout area and V.I.P. lounge, Black Box is something of a
haven for hard-core techno and drum & bass freaks - so
if an after-work dance around the handbag is what youre
after then youd be better off heading elsewhere. Most of the
clientele appear to be under 20, but then Black Boxs sanitychallenging sound system and light show are something that
you have to be in the flush of youth to endure. The club is only
open when a specific DJ event is scheduled, so you really need
to interrogate your in-the-know Sofia friends before making
tracks. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00.
Brilyantin B-3, ul. Moskovska 3, tel. 986 31 12, www.
briliantin.com. The name of this club is a tribute to the
dancing skills of Travolta and Newton-John, as Brilyantin
(Brilliantine) is the name by which Seventies musical
Grease is known in Bulgaria. However youre unlikely to
see any latter-day hep-cats jiving away in their best rockand-roll frocks - Brilyantin is actually one of Sofias prime
hang-outs for stylish young professionals, wannabe media
types and expensive-cocktail conoisseurs. Matt black surfaces, the odd mirror-ball and a crowd-pleasing mixture of
retro, house and dance-pop are the order of the day. Hard
to get into at weekends - when you might have to reserve
a table or arrive soon after opening time. QOpen 17:00 04:00. PJA
Casinos
Casino Hawaii D-3, bul. Cherni Vrah 31 Hemus Hotel
Sofia, tel. 963 37 63. Located in the Hemus Hotel, this
casino offers table games - roulette, black jack, Caribbean
poker, and slot machines. The staff speaks English and
alcohol is free. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. P
Casino London B-4, Radisson SAS, pl. Narodno
sabranie 4, tel. 980 70 75, fax 980 30 66. Roulette,
black-jack, poker and more. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
A
Casino Princess F-7, Sofia Princess Hotel, bul.
Maria Luiza 131, tel. 933 87 00, fax 931 00 61.
Southeast Europes answer to Las Vegas. Just dont go
crazy. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A
Casino Rila B-3, Rila Hotel, ul. Kaloyan 6, tel. 981
80 67, fax 981 82 48. 10 total table games, restaurant.
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. AK
Casino Viva B-3, Sheraton Hotel, pl. Sveta Nedelya
5, tel. 986 35 01. Good choice of slot machines and
table games. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A
Palms Merkur Casino F-9, Botevgradsko shose,
bl. 2, tel. 0884 684 830, botevgradsko@lip.bg. Good
choice of slot machines and electronic roulette. QOpen
00:00 - 24:00. PO
nIGHtlIfe
Buddha Bar B-3, ul. Lege 15A, tel. 989 50 06. There
are so many Buddha bars around the world these days that
the cross-legged sage is beginning to look more like the logo
of a multinational leisure business than founder of one of the
worlds great religions. The Sofia version offers just as much
oriental kitsch as its namesakes but still succeeds in being
a relaxing drinking spot - especially if you choose the chillout room with the hookahs. The DJ parties held here feature
ethno, house and dance music. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
PJALGB
Cabaret C-3, ul. Hristo Belchev 12, tel. 981 60 88. The
club is snugly sheltered in the basement of an old Art-Nouveau

building which lends a particular old-time atmosphere reinforced by the stylish furniture and lighting. Musical styles
include latino and retro-pop, drawing in a slightly older crowd
than some of the techno-temples elsewhere. QOpen 19:00
- 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PJAGW
Club Liqueur B-3, ul. Pirotska 5 (corner with George

Washington), tel. 0888 888 358, www.clubliqueur.
com. The place plays retro, rock, evergreen, R&B and dance
music. The decoration is modernistic with columns wrapped
in silver, the bar and bar plots are illuminated, the high chairs
are with leather seating. The overall luminous effects are
state of the art in red, green and yellow. Occasionally there
is live music. There are also special alcohol promotions for
each day of the week. Just ask. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00.
Admission: 3-5Lv. The club offers:on Monday Students
party, on Tuesday - Black party and on Wednesday - BG

music party. Sunday no admission fee, Thursday ladies go
in for free. PJEW
Club Sugar C-4, ul. Graf Ignatiev 1, tel. 0899 103 617,
www.sugarclub.eu. Sugar is maybe the only exclusive Fri

& Sat R&B and hip hop club in town. It has two rooms, with
different DJ playing but sometimes, you never know when, there
will be only the main room open. The crowd is quite young, so
you might feel either in kindergarten or in heaven. There are 3
video walls projecting all night movies or documentaries about
R&B stars. The 2 bars are aways full and hard to get to, since
the drinks are quite cheap and this certainly inspires drinking.
People are definitely there to dance and show off their new MTV
moves or if you are lucky electric and break dance style. Wear
your party or gangsta style clothes to make sure you catch
the eye. Excellent and welcoming surrounding for people of all
races, fun is guaranteed. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00. PJA
Escape B-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 1, tel. 0889 990 000,
www.clubescapebg.com. Escape boasts a huge dancefloor, four bars on two levels, a bone-grinding sound system
and an energized, foxy clientele. Thursday is retro-disco night,
while top-ranking house and techno DJs twiddle the knobs at
weekends. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed,
Sun. Admission: 10Lv. PJAL
Chervilo B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 9, tel. 981 66 33,

maria@chervilo.com, www.chervilo.com. Ten-year-old
Guidelines to Bulgarian lifestyle, bars, clubs and discos

1. Try not to stare at women that are accompanied by their
boyfriends, no matter how beautiful they are, it might be
taken as an insult.
2. Try to avoid conflict if you notice Bulgarian people stare
at your wife/girlfriend, or at yourself, usually they will be
just curious. Dont forget some 19 years ago the majority
of people didnt even meet foreigners from beyond the iron
curtain, so you are still new and exciting. Bravo!
3. Dont try to act overly macho, particularly in more provincial towns or cities. Unless of course you are Mike Tyson.
4. When in a bar do not shout or insult the waiters or other
staff members, it may be taken very deeply.
5. If you feel that someone is in some way being threatening or intimidating to you, it is often best to befriend
them. In many cases locals feel threatened by foreigners
and try to show themselves as tough but when you act
as equals and friends they will often almost immediately
drop this faade.
6. If however a conflict situation rises, leave immediately.
Do not stay around and add on to the fire. Bulgarians are
very social and family driven and under a common goal a
big group of people is summoned very fast.
7. Good icebreakers are compliments on the country: The
food, the football, the women, the inventions created by
Bulgarians such as the Cyrillic alphabet and so on. As additional benefit you might get an interesting story or two.
Make them talk, they love it.
8. Strong drinks (vodka, whisky etc.) come in quantities
of 50ml for a small and 100ml for a large. In some places,
unless you specifically ask for small you will be handed a
large by default.
9. Rakia must only be drunk with shopska salad. Dont ask
us why, it just should. If you order one without salad you
may well be looked at as if you are from Mars.
10. The Bulgarian for cheers is nazdrave, which literally
means to your health. If someone proposes a toast (and
this could happen innumerable times during the course of

the evening) you have to clink your glass with absolutely
everyone, no matter how many are sitting round the table,
making sure to look in the eye at the point of clinking. If you
fail to make eye contact, they will think you are disrespectful (or just an uninformed foreigner). The custom comes
from ancient times. In days gone by kings, khans and
other important figures would look deep into the eyes of
the person they cheer to guess his intentions. Then they
would bang their glasses so hard, so that a drop of each
drink gets into the other (mixing the drinks would guarantee
they are not poisoned).
11. Be prepared to mix your own drinks. Whilst in England
a vodka and coke means a nice mixed drink from the bar,
in BG it means 1 vodka (most likely large) and 1 coke. Mix it
yourself to your own perfect proportions. Cheers.
12. Bring a gas mask. Many Bulgarians are heavy smokers although this becomes less with new generations.
Some bars can be closed in and stuffy places. Combine
this with a crowd of 40 a day hardcore smokers and you
get quite a fog.
13. Take advantage of the hospitality of the Bulgarian soul.
You might be invited to dinners, parties, cocktail parties,
promotions, etc. Generally Bulgarians love foreigners.
14. In bars you can not bring drugs, guns or other forbidden substances. Pretty much like most places you have
been in your life.
15. Big fat silver chains that you could anchor a boat with
are an absolute must. That is if you want to appear young,
cool, like a gangster or simply need to anchor a boat.
16. If you are going out on a Friday night to a bar and
want to blend in like a local, it is essential that you
havent shaved for at least 3 days. Dressing entirely in
black is a bonus.
17. Girls, for you to catch the attention of Bulgarian men,
just act natural and dress sexy.
39
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nIGHtlIfe
Gay and lesbian Sofia
There are now several centrally-located gay venues in
Sofia. Most are friendly places catering for a wide clientele
rather than special interests. Up-to-date listing of parties
in bars and clubs can be found at www.gay.bg.
One characteristic of Sofias gays and lesbian community
is that many prefer to visit mixed clubs which are known
for attracting a tolerant, open-minded crowd: Chervilo,
Escape and Yalta (see our main Nightlife listings for
details) are good examples of these.
Adonis B-2, ul. Knyaz Boris 122, tel. 0898 305
932. Cute little place specializing in Balkan folk-pop,

popular with transvestites and a younger crowd. QOpen
22:00 - 06:00.
Club 18+ C-2, bul. Vitosha 18, tel. 846 82 54. Newish club on central Sofias main street with different DJ
styles on different nights. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00.
Essence B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 29, tel.
0899 998 666. Lesbian club with a wide spectrum of
music. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun.
PGX
Exit Club B-6, ul. Lavele 16, tel. 0888 140 133,
www.exit-club.com. Bar & Diner. Cosy place with a
variety of alcoholic and non-alcoholic cocktails and a
DJ-party every evening. Not to be confused with the Exit
Club on ul. Suborna, which is completely straight. QOpen
08:00 - 02:00. J
Chillout Bar & Dinner B-3, ul. Triaditsa 5, tel. 980
02 03, diner@chilloutbg.com, www.chilloutbg.com.
One of those mainstream but gay-friendly places that
attracts a mixed tolerant crowd throughout the week.
Dedicated gay DJ party every 2nd Saturday. QOpen
08:00 - 04:00. PABW
In Da Club C-2, ul. Samuil 33. Dedicated gay club with
3 floors of music. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Vital B-2, ul. Alabin 5, tel. 987 19 67. A key meeting
point of long standing, functioning as a cool caf in the
daytime and transforming itself into a DJ bar from about
8pm onwards. Club nights on Fridays and Saturdays
frequently involve strip shows, cabaret and DJ-driven fun.
Nice garden courtyard. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00.
veteran of the Sofia clubbing scene that shows no sign of

going out of fashion. Alongside leading Bulgarian techno DJs,
the club frequently hosts star guests from abroad, and attracts a correspondingly hip crowd. It is divided into three halls
and though the major club nights are held in the Main Room,
some infectiously off-beat DJ events take place in a smaller
space, the cute Baby Box. QOpen 22:30 - 06:00. Closed
Mon, Sun. Admission: 5-20Lv. PJAEBW
Life House B-2, bul. Vitosha 12, tel. 0888 241 016,
www.clublifehouse.com. The name says it all - this is one

of the top venues for house music in Sofia, with top local
and international DJs doling out the beats. Design is postindustrial and service is of the kind usually experienced in
Sofia clubs - slow but genial. QOpen 23:00 - 06:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Admission: 2-15Lv. PA
PR G-8, ul. Cherkovna 87, tel. 0895 500 500, www.
prclub-bg.com. Only a few months old and already seen

as something of a jewel in Sofias night-life crown, PR offers
stylish interior, six bars and an amazing lighting rig. Enjoyable,
all-inclusive mix of house and retro-disco rhythms, enhanced
by the presence of some of Sofias most cheerful and friendly
staff. QOpen 23:00 - 07:00. Closed Sun.
Pulse Club A-2, ul. Tsar Samuil 50, tel. 089 852 01 50.
This small and cozy night club offers a nice environment in
which to escape from the outside world. Designed to keep
you on the dance floor, the club consists of one bar and tables
facing the dance floor. At the entrance of the club there are
three bed - like sofas, where you can chill out on soft cushions.
Make sure you don`t leave your drink unattended ( even on the
bar ), as your half full beer bottle will be gone in no time and
of course the bartenders will know nothing of its mysterious
disappearance. The cloakroom is tiny, so don`t rely on having your coat hanging nicely. There are theme parties every
Friday and they not only fill the place with a pleasant crowd,
but they are also an atmosphere and experience you should
not miss. For more information check our culture section.
QOpen 22:00 - 08:00. Closed Sun.
Retro club Gramophone B-3, ul. Budapeshta 6, tel.
981 14 10/0878 146 353, retroclubgramophone@
gmail.com, www.retroclubgramophone.com. One of the
most popular Sofias downtown clubs, opened again with a
new interior and a new program. The long bar is loaded with
different brands of imported alcohol, including Johnnie Walker
blue label. Lighting is with grade colours, fires burn down at
the level of your legs and large white wings are spread high on
the walls. From the DJ desk, already located next to the front
door, you can hear different genres of music, depending on
what day of the week you have chosen, for visiting the club.
Overall, things look like this: hypnotized Monday, evergreen
Tuesday, retro Wednesday & Thursday, light house Friday
& Saturday, retro Sunday. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PJB
Salsa plus B-4, ul. Aksakov 31, tel. 980 40 80/0888 50
80 80, salsaplus@abv.bg. Somewhat appropriately hidden in

an alley and down in a basement, this alternative dance club
is a must for anyone who likes something different. Boasting
a simple and bright decor, a small bar area, a clientele that
varies in age and ethnicity and an open space for them to strut
their stuff, at times you will actually feel like you are in South or
Central America. There is a joyous spirt here that is infectious,
thanks to the welcoming customers, many of whom sport traditional dress, who are here to express themselves to the sexy
latino rhythm. Youll possibly find someone to teach you a few
steps or you can just sit back and enjoy what often turns into a
real show. QOpen 17:30 - 04:00. Closed Sun. P
The Black Lodge B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 34,
tel. 0887 425 400. Named after the famous fictional place
of the cult TV serial Twin Peaks, the club is brand new and the
only heavy metal club in Sofia. In front of the club theres a big
red sign which you cant miss. Downstairs you will find a rather
crowded, smoky place, divided into four parts. The rooms are
in dark grey and black, with tattoo designs painted on the walls,
all in the spirit of the classic heavy metal atmosphere, done
professionally and with style. Prices are not the lowest, but you
can be sure, that there will be no degenerates, who come here
just to get drunk, but real fans of heavy metal music. If thats
you - this is your lodge. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00. P
The Blue Box F-7, bul. Maria Luiza 106. Blue Box -- Once a
cinema, this hall can become a sweaty nightmare, when a show

is attended by more than 50 people. If you are used to sauna
temperatures and headbanging drunks, you will probably survive
itand become much stronger. QOpen 20:00 - 04.00. E
Yalta B-4, bul.Tsar Osvoboditel 20, tel. 980 12 97/0897
870 230, office@yaltaclub.com, www.yaltaclub.com.

Sofias longest-running dance venue is still the best place to
catch international DJs - theres usually at least one big name
jetting in every weekend. The recently revamped main chamber
is closed on quiet weeknights, although the ground-floor bar
Nightlife
(open daily) is always worth a visit: anyone who remembers
the space-station cafe scene from 2001: a Space Odyssey will
find it curiously familiar. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00.
Folk clubs
Folk in Bulgaria means chalga the semi-oriental, shakeyour-booty-and-waggle-your-hands-in-the-air ethno-pop
which is indigenous to the Balkan peninsula.
Help B-2, ul. Hristo Botev 61, tel. 810 88 88, bgcinematrade@abv.bg. Housed in the Sin City entertainment
complex, an expensively renovated former theatre, Help is
the biggest and flashiest of the folk venues. Theres a lobby
bar playing western dance-pop and an enormous main hall
crammed with tables (reserve in advance if you want to be
sure of one), with a mix of DJs and live musicians laying down
chalga beats. Attracts dressed-up ladies and mean-looking
macho types, so attire yourself accordingly. QOpen 22:30
- 07:00. Admission: 5-30Lv. PALGBW
NAI-klub B-4, pl. Narodno sabranie 10, tel. 981 27 47,
dani_nai@abv.bg. Prepare for visual and aural overload in his
cavernous subterranean space, with cave paintings on the
walls, leopard-print tablecloths, and four giant feet holding up
the ceiling. A foundation-shaking selection of Bulgarian and
Serbian chart hits will have your hips swaying convulsively
after a few drinks. QOpen 22:00 - 07:00. Admission: 3Lv.
Ladies go in for free.
Planeta B-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev 6, tel. 987 94 94, planeta-
club@abv.bg, www.planeta-club.com. Not much in the way

of fancy decor but hugely enjoyable nevertheless, with a house
band moving room table to table, and belly-dancers shaking
their assets in the direction of anyone who looks like a generous
tipper. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Admission: 3-10Lv.
Karaoke
Backstage Karaoke Bar C-4, bul. Vasil Levski 100. A
spacious club with wide variety of songs. Live concerts are

also organized there. The style is predominantly rock. Prices
are not very low but the entrance fee is modest. The club
is divided into 2 halls, one of them with a pool table. Food is
not available, except for nuts.
mances by distinguished Bulgarian ivory tinklers. Music ranges

from relaxing cocktail-bar jazz to stomping RnB covers, when
its time to cast your inhibitions aside and hit the dance-floor.
QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. Admission: 7Lv. PAEG
Back Stage B-5, bul. Vasil Levski 100. Sizeable club with
a huge oblong bar, pool tables in the adjoining room, and a big
stage at one end that hosts the big names of Bulgarian rock
and pop. Wednesday night is blues night. QOpen 20:00 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 3-10Lv. EG
Biblioteka Cool House - Piano Bar B-5, bul. Vasil
Levski 88. This is a luxurious karaoke bar in the basement
of the National library building. The list of songs offers mainly
pop, rock, chill out and retro. Beverages are quite expensive.
QOpen 12:00 - 01:30. PAE
Fans B-5, bul. Vasil Levski 114, tel. 0896 061 315, rockbarfans@abv.bg. Getting to Fans is an adventure in itself: go
through the yard of the Chinese restaurant at bul. Vasil Levski
114, down the spiral stairs, through the heavy curtain used
instead of a door, and pay a man dressed as a cowboy to gain
admittance. Once inside the semi-darkened interior youll find
an enthusiastic beer-swilling crowd, and nightly performances
by Bulgarian rockers, bluesmen and pop-rock cover bands.
QOpen 19:00 - 04:00. PALE
Social Jazz Club C-3, pl. Slaveykov 4, tel. 0884 622
220. Buried beneath Sofia City Library is one of Sofias
coolest music venues, offering a regular menu of live jazz
including some top names from Bulgaria and the Balkans.
Although there is standing space in front of the stage, its
best to reserve a table if you want to watch the gig in comfort.
The bar serves imported drinks only and prices are on the
high side, so do remember to visit the cash point before you
arrive. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. 5-15Lv.
Swingin Hall D-5, bul. Dragan Tsankov 8, tel. 963 06
96, galswing@abv.bg. Currently the best place in town to

catch local rock, blues, jazz and world-music acts, with a sixday-a-week programme of live music. With three bars, two
stages, and a brick-lined, cellar-like interior, its a great place
for a night out whoever is on the bill. Friendly party-inclined
atmosphere draws musically-inclined Sofians of all ages, and
a generous sprinkling of ex-pats. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00.
Closed Mon. Admission: 5Lv.
Yesterday Karaoke Bar B-3, ul. Rakovski 82, tel. 981

23 46, pianobar@mail.bg, www.pianobar-vchera.com. A
nice small place underground in a noisy central street. The
list of songs is quite rich and various: people can choose
from MTV hits to French chansons, Russian chastushki,
Bulgarian pop music etc. However drinks are not very cheep
and Bulgarian alcohol is not available. Sometimes it is far too
overcrowded. An entrance fee of 2 lv is included in the bill at
the end. You can sing karaoke there all nights except for Friday
and Saturday. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. PW
http://theclub-bg.com/. Once a cult rock club, this cozy

2-store hut is where all good and professional Bulgarian musicians play. Close to the audience and with booze flowing from
the bar. The owner is a respected Bulgarian alternative rock
musician and producer, so sound quality is indisputable. Q
Admission: 10 BGN.
Live music clubs
Angels Club B-3, Sheraton Hotel, pl. Sveta Nedelya 5,

tel. 987 15 30. Lots of nice dancing girls. QOpen 22:00 -
8th Ball A-4, Sv. sv. Kiril i Metodiy 27, tel. 0876 107
722. This underground basement cavern is a place for hardcore punks, hooligans and all types of tattooed weirdos. It is
the place where fast, noisy, unknown and mostly young bands
play with fierce passion. Dont mess with the bartenders,
they are as local and as tough as you will never be. QOpen
20:00 - 04.00. Admission: 4-5 BGN.
B29 Piano Bar B-1, ul. Vladayska 29, tel. 952 06 65,
b29@abv.bg, www.b29pianobar.com. A piano bar which
really is a bar with a piano in it, featuring regular live perfor-
The Club G-8, Nicolaus Copernicus 2, tel. 872 09 46,
Adult entertainment
05:00. Admission: 7Lv. PJAL
Dolls G-7, bul. Dzheyms Bauchar 100, tel. 963 39 64,

www.sofianights.com. Classy club with a long tradition, with
a sizeable cast of dancing girls and a programme of erotic
shows. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Admission: 7Lv. PA
Taboo Club B-4, pl. Narodno sabranie 12, tel. 987 08 70,
www.sofianights.com. Plush environment in which to enjoy an
array of lovely dancers. Fruit salad- servedon a womans body is the speciality of the house. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. A
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nIGHtlIfe
Studentski grad
Over 10,000 of Bulgarias brightest young things live in the
grey and windswept blocks of Studentski grad (Studentville), a purpose-built suburb located some 7km southeast
of the centre. Despite its housing-estate-at-the-end-of-theworld appearance, Studentski grad is one of the fastest
changing places in the whole country, with flashy new bars,
clubs and fast-food joints springing up almost daily to satisfy
the voracious leisure-time appetites of Sofias hormonefuelled student community. If you feel like partying 24 hours
a day, seven days a week, then this is the place to do it.
If your mind is more focused on passing your exams and
becoming a responsible member of society, however, youre
best advised to steer clear of the place altogether.
To get to Studentski grad, take bus No. 280 from ul. Shipka
(B-4) to the end of the line. A taxi back to town wont break
the bank.
Bar na kraya na vselenata H-8, Studentski grad,

bl. 34B, tel. 962 55 41, office@vselenata.com, www.
vselenata.com. The aptly-named Bar at the End of the
Universe is on the northern fringes of Studentski grad
and as such makes the perfect place to start or finish
your intrepid crawl through Sofias outer reaches. Centred
on a big circular bar surrounded by yellowy-orange walls
perforated with holes, it looks a bit like a spaceship built
out of Swiss cheese. Relaxed, friendly, and with a long
list of cocktails and light meals. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00.
PLNGXW
Jim Beam Club H-8, ul. Atanas Manchev 3, tel. 0895
433 708, www.minimaxcomplex.com. Ultra modern interior, all red and black design, even down to the waitresses
tight costumes, the spacious dance floor, state of the sound
system and two enclosed bar areas all combine to make this
a hopping nightclub. By 00:30 the place is packed. QOpen
22:30 - 04:00. Admission: 3-5Lv. PA
Marseille H-8, ul. Prof. Dr. Ivan Stranski 5, tel. 968 19
79, fax 968 19 78, marsilia@sakar-marsilia.com, www.
sakar-marsilia.com. This spacious, glass-fronted cafe-bar
is guaranteed to fill up with slinky young creatures whatever
the time of day or night. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00.
Maskata H-8, Studentski grad, bl. 19, tel. 868 80
79. This candle-lit post-industrial cattle shed of a place
exudes a relaxing unpretentious vibe, although the disco
hits emanating from the muddy sound system sometimes
leave a lot to be desired. Maskatas main selling point is the
regular diet of live pop-rock. The size of the party depends
on who is playing and how many fans theyve managed
to drag along. QOpen 21:30 - 05:00. Admission: 3-5Lv.
PALEGX
Orient 33 H-8, ul. Atanas Manchev 1, tel. 0895 433
702. Despite non-descript decor and unfriendly staff, the
ear-splitting selection of Balkan folk-pop ditties at this
popular chalga club keeps the public coming in droves.
QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Admission: 3-5Lv.
Stroezha H-8, Studentski grad, bl. 23B, tel. 962 59
Avenue H-8, ul. Atanas Manchev 1A, tel. 0898 553

086, complexavenue@abv.bg, www.complexavenue.
com. Minimal decor, throbbing music and a wide selection
of cheap alcohol help make this place something of a
laboratory of scholarly self-destruction. One floor is devoted
to western dance music, while the other concentrates on
Balkan chalga-pop, so at least you get to sample both sides
of the Studentski grad experience in one place. QOpen
00:00 - 24:00. Admission: 3Lv. PLNW
Bacardi Box H-8, ul. 8-mi dekemvri, tel. 968 19 11,
i_sergeeva@abv.bg, http://bacardibox.com. Despite a

sparse interior whose huge rectangular bar and numerous
compartments leave little room for a dancefloor, Bacardi
box has no problem packing in the booty-shaking, boogiehappy drinkers. With a winning formula that ranges from
top-forty sounds to retro disco and chalga in the early hours,
semi-naked dancers on the bar and really affordable prices,
its no wonder this place is currently one of Studentski
grads liveliest corners. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PLN
77, stroeja@abv.bg, www.stroeja.com. A warren of

nooks and crannies and plenty of lived-in furniture make
this one of Studentski grads more laid-back drinking holes.
If you like alternative rock, punk, ska and Britpop youll feel
so at home here that youll probably never leave. Closed
in August. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00.
The Net H-8, Studentski grad, bl. 38. With its brownbeige colour scheme and comfy geometrical furnishings the
Net is one of those places that draw you in and keep you
contentedly sipping away whether a quiet afternoon coffee
or a raucous odyssey of nocturnal entertainment is on your
mind. Good list of cocktails, and the shot menu comes
highly recommended. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Toucan Bluzz & Rock H-8, ul. Akademik Boris Stefanov 4, tel. 0887 098 164. Can white men sing the bluzz?
If you like the idea of a subterranean beer hall combining
live music with pool tables, a huge bar and a wide range of
beers, then its well worth heading to Studentski grad to
find out. Regular programme of rock and blues, and maybe
the best karaoke in Sofia every Thursday night. QOpen
21:00 - 04:00. Admission:3-10Lv. PNW
What to see
Sofia may not have the grandeur of a great world city, but
its tree-lined, frequently cobbled streets are chock full of
absorbing oddities. As youd expect for a town thats over
2,000 years old, the centre of Sofia is like a walk-through
history lesson, with Romans, Byzantines, Bulgarians, Ottoman Turks and Soviet-inspired communists all having left
their architectural imprint.
Essential Sofia
Alexander Nevski Memorial Church (Hram-pametnik Aleksandar Nevski) B-4, pl. Aleksandar Nevski,
tel. 988 17 04. Built by Russian architects, inspired by the
glories of ancient Byzantium, this multi-domed ecclesiastical
monster has been Sofias visual trademark ever since its
completion in 1924. It was built in memory of the Russias
nineteenth-century contribution to Bulgarias liberation,
although the Aleksander referred to in the title,s is actually a
medieval prince of Novgorod, who battled Teutonic Knights.
Decorated from floor to ceiling with frescoes and illuminated
by flickering candles, the vast interior is as atmospheric as
they come. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Daily Liturgy - 08:00 and
17:00; Vigil - Sat 18:30; Mass - Sun 09:30
provide todays designers with a rich seam of inspiration. The

bilingual Bulgarian-English labeling is unusually thorough, and
the collection is just the right size to be easily digestible in one
trip. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Admission: 10Lv.
Boyana Church (Boyanskata tsurkva) H-6, ul. Boy-
ansko ezero 1-3, tel. 959 09 39, fax 959 29 66, nmbc@
nmbc.orbitel.bg, www.boyanachurch.org. If medieval
church art turns you on then the UNESCO-listed Boyana
church will have you foaming at the mouth with excitement.
Just about every square inch of the interior is covered with
bible scenes and saintly portraits, rendered by thirteenthcentury artists. Nobody knows the identity of the painters,
but their mastery of realistic depiction and sophisticated use
of colour puts them on a par with Italian artists of the early
Renaissance. It is a tiny church consisting of two parts: the
oldest dates from the 10th century, when it served as the
Archaeological Museum (Arheologicheski muzey)
B-3, ul. Saborna 2, tel. 988 24 06, fax 988 24 05, aim.
sofianet.net. Housed in a beautifully restored fifteenthcentury mosque, this attractive display of Thracian, Greek,
Roman and medieval Bulgarian artefacts is by far the most
eye-pleasing museum that Sofia has to offer. Imposing chunks
of Greek and Roman masonry are strewn around the main
hall, while upstairs lie many of the headline-grabbing Thracian
treasures, unearthed by Bulgarian archaeologists in recent
years. Most mesmerizing of all is the solid gold burial mask of
a fourth-century-BC Thracian ruler, excavated near the central
Bulgarian town of Shipka in summer 2004. A series of Orthodox
church paintings depicting the life and martyrdom of St George
run around the first-floor gallery, while a room full of exquisite
medieval Bulgarian jewelry looks contemporary enough to
43
44
What to see
chapel of Boyana fortress. A second floor was added in 1259
by the Sevastokrator (or local governor) Kaloyan, who used
the church as his family chapel. It was Kaloyan, who commissioned the frescoes for which Boyana church is famous.
Restored in various stages over the past forty years, the
main body of the church was never open to the public in its
entirety until December 2006. Highlights include portraits of
Kaloyan and wife Desislava dressed in sumptuous robes, and
the earliest known portrait of the white-bearded St John of
Rila, Bulgarias national patron saint. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30.
Admission: 10Lv. Combined ticket including National History
Museum: 12Lv. Visitors are admitted to the church six at a
time, at ten-minute intervals, so be prepared to wait.
National Museum of History (Natsionalen istoricheski muzey) G-6, ul. Vitoshko Lale 16, Boyana,
tel. 955 76 04, fax 955 76 02, nim.pr@abv.bg., www.

historymuseum.org. Located in a park-shrouded former
government palace on the northern side of the Okolovrusten
put (Sofias main ring road), Bulgarias National History Museum offers a highly enjoyable chronological journey through
at least eight millennia of human civilization on the Balkan
peninsula. The building itself is a fascinating oddity, having
served Bulgarias communist leaders as an official residence
until 1989. If anybody ever launched a lifestyle magazine for
would-be dictators, the marble halls and ornate ceilings in evidence here would make ideal front-page material.A sweeping
staircase leads to the display areas, where the circular-shaped
Neolithic Hall harbours vividly-decorated jugs and clay figures.
Representations of the Earth Mother Goddess, dating from the
sixth millennium BC include a fabulous pair of buttocks from
the Sofia region. Next up is the Thracian room: unfortunately,
many of Bulgarias most famous Thracian treasures are touring
western museums at present, and it is not known quite when
they will come home. However there is still plenty of Thracian
gold- and silverware, fantastically decorated with mythical
animals, to make a visit here worthwhile. Biggest disappointment is the medieval section, which is largely based on replicas
of items kept elsewhere, or on photographs of ruined castles
and churches throughout Bulgaria. Its more of an educational
theme-park than a serious museum display, but it certainly
whets the appetite for further travel within the country. Upstairs
on the second floor lies a knock-out display of brightly-coloured
folk costumes and kilims, and a fascinating collection of posters, photographs and domestic nick-nacks documenting the
social history of twentieth-century Bulgaria. QOpen 09:00
- 17:30. Admission: 10Lv. Combined ticket including Boyana
Church: 12Lv. English-language tours cost 20Lv and can be
booked in advance on tel. 955 42 80.
Russian Church of St Nicholas (Ruska tsurkva)
B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 3, tel. 986 27 15. Of all the

places of worship in Sofia, this is the most vivacious, its
green steeple and five golden domes outshining pretty much
everything else on this central boulevard. Built just before
World War I to serve Sofias Russian community and modeled
on Muscovite churches of the sixteenth century, it looks as if
a small piece of the Kremlin has been plonked in the middle
of the Balkans. A path to the left of the main entrance leads
Rotunda of St George (Rotonda Sveti Georgi) B-3,
pl. Sveta Nedelya 2. Hidden away in a courtyard behind the

Sheraton Hotel, this dainty red-brick doughnut of a building
is the oldest surviving structure in the city, which still serves
its original purpose. Built by the Romans in the fourth century,
but much changed since, its justly famous for the twelfth- to
fourteenth-century frescoes inside the central dome. Its a
powerful ensemble, with an all-powerful Christ looking down
on successive circles of white-bearded disciples and holy
men. Painted over during the Ottoman period (when the
building was used as a mosque), these frescoes were only
unearthed in the twentieth century. Admission: free, but
donations appreciated. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.
WHat to see
to the crypt, last resting place of Archbishop Serafim, who
served as head of the Russian church in Bulgaria in the early
twentieth century. An enormously popular and pious man
during his lifetime, Serafim is nowadays accorded almost
saintly status by the Sofians, who come here to write prayers
on scraps of paper which are then posted into a box next to
his sarcophagus. QOpen 08:00 - 18:30.
Zhenski pazar A-2, A-3, ul. Stefan Stambolov. Zhenski

pazar literally means womens market, although people
of all possible sexes, ages and pockets throng daily to this
half-a-kilometre-long strip of street stalls lined on either
side by poky shops. Fresh foodstuffs are the mainstay of
the market, but you can also buy flowers, cheap clothes,
household goods, ironmongery and more. Theres not much in
the way of fancy goods or souvenirs, but the raw street-level
vigour of the place makes it well worth a visit. Its a location
popular with pickpockets too, however, so take good care
of your belongings.
Museums
Earth and Man National Museum (Natsionalen
Muzey Zemyata i horata) D-2, bul. Cherni vrah 4,
tel. 865 66 39, fax 866 14 57, earth.and.man@gmail.

com, www.earthandman.org. Despite being housed in
an impressively restored nineteenth-century arsenal, this
geology collection is less dramatic than its title suggests,
exhaustively cataloguing the earths minerals with rows and
rows of rock-filled display cases. The outlandish, brightlycoloured quartz crystals on the ground floor just about make
a visit worthwhile. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Admission: 2Lv.
Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzey) B-3, pl.
Galleries
Icon Gallery B-3, in the crypt of the Aleksander Nevski
Memorial Church, tel. 981 57 75. Stunning collection of
Bulgarian icons from the medieval period to the nineteenth
century. Portrayals of horse-riding warrior saints such as
George and Demetrius are particularly prominent: they served
as potent symbols of struggle and survival during the long
centuries of Ottoman rule. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission: 4Lv.
Sofia City Art Gallery B-3, ul. Gurko 1, tel. 987 21 81,
sghg2@bgnet.bg, www.sghg.cult.bg. The Sofia City Art
Gallery possesses some of the richest collections of Bulgarian
art: 3500 paintings, 800 statues, 2800 graphtics and drawings. The Contemporary Art and Photography department was
founded in 2004. With 1100 square meters of exposition space
divided into four compartments the Gallery arranges some 30
exhibitions every year. Most of the exhibitions display works
from the Gallerys collections. In addition visiting one-man,
group and general exhibitions of Bulgarian and foreign artists
are arranged. Studies on present-day art and work with young
artists became a special focus of the Gallerys policy in recent
years. Sofia City Art Gallery is a museum with long-standing
traditions. Its role is to present the facts of Bulgarian cultural
history in an analytical and modern way and to actively intervene in art developments by original and impressive projects.
We recommend you to visit also the Vaska Emanuilova Gallery,
branch of the Sofia City Art Gallery B-5 bul. Yanko Sakuzov 15,
tel. 944 11 75, www.veg.cult.bg. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
National Art Gallery
Aleksandar Batenberg 1, tel. 988 41 91, fax 980 11 62,

eim_bas@mail.bg, ethnography.cc.bas.bg. Scintillating
displays of folk arts and crafts, drawn from the museums vast
collection. Situated in the east wing of the former royal palace.
QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 3Lv.
Ivan Vazov Museum-House (Kashta-muzey Ivan
Vazov) B-4, ul. Ivan Vazov 10, tel. 988 12 70, vazovmuseum@slovo.bg. Bulgarias most revered literary figure, Ivan
Vazov (1850-1921) is best known for writing Under the Yoke
(Pod igoto), a sprawling novel detailing small-town Bulgarian
life at the time of the anti-Ottoman uprising of 1876. The
house where he lived from 1895 until death is a charming
period piece, with furnishings, crockery, bookshelves - and
even the stuffed remains of Bobi the dog - pretty much preserved as Vazov left it. QOpen , Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat 10:00
- 17:00, Thu 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission:
1Lv. Lecture 3Lv.
National Museum of Military History (Natsionalen
Voennoistoricheski muzey) G-8, ul. Cherkovna 92, tel.
946 18 05, fax 946 18 06, m.museum@bol.bg, www.

militarymuseum.bg. A couple of display halls, stuffed with
uniforms and weaponry, and a hugely enjoyable outdoor section featuring all manner of tanks, jet fighters and Soviet-era
long-range missiles. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon,
Tue. Admission: 2Lv. Lecture: 10Lv.
National Museum of Natural History (Natsionalen

Prirodonauchen muzey) B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel
1, tel. 987 41 95, fax 988 28 94, www.nmnh.bas.bg.

Rocks, insects, stuffed animals, creatures in bottles, and
live reptiles slithering about optimistically in search of small
mammals - so keep a firm grip on the kids. QOpen 10:00
- 18:00. Admission: 2Lv.
National Art Gallery (Natsionalna hudozhestvena galeria) B-3, pl. Aleksandar Batenberg 1,
tel. 980 33 25, sofim@abv.bg. The countrys flagship

collection occupies one half of the former royal palace,
where creaky parquet floors and ornate stuccoed ceilings
provide the perfect environment in which to peruse an
all-embracing overview of Bulgarian painting. Strikingly,
canvases are hung in the middle of the room rather than
on the walls round the sides. Look out in particular for the
works of Vladimir Dimitrov-Maistora (1882-1960), whose
pictures of Bulgarian peasant girls surrounded by apples,
apricots and other fruit have a timeless, spiritual quality
reminiscent of Orthodox icons. If you have a hankering
for more modern stuff then head for the ground-floor
galleries, where temporary exhibitions of contemporary
art are staged. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Admission: 3Lv.
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46
WHat to see
National Gallery of Foreign Art
century incarnation of a church that has stood on this spot

since medieval times. It has long been associated with the
miracle-working bones of Serbian king Stefan Urosh, which
are still kept in a wooden box to the right of the iconostasis.
It is popularly believed that certain female health problems
can be cured by leaving an appropriate piece of underwear
in the box for 24 hours (and if you want to test this out
you should really contact the priest, not us). The churchs
other claim to fame is the flamboyantly ambitious terrorist
attack that took place here in 1925, when left-wing activists attempted to bomb the Bulgarian royal family while
they were attending a funeral. A huge explosion destroyed
much of the church and killed 100 mourners, but the royals
escaped unscathed. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Daily liturgy
08:30 and 16:00.
Church of St Petka of the Saddlemakers (Tsurkva

Sveta Petka Samardzhiyska) B-3, pl. Nezavisimost.
National Gallery of Foreign Art (Natsionalna
galeria za chuzhdestranno izkustvo) B-4, pl.
Aleksandar Nevski 1, tel. 988 49 22/980 72 62,

ngfa@abv.bg, www.foreignartmuseum.bg. Wideranging collection of work by fair-to-middling artists you
probably havent heard of before. Youll come across one
or two famous names if you look closely enough, but much
of the best stuff is of a small-format variety (a pastel by
Renoir here, a lithograph by Picasso there) - so it would
be unwise to come here with high expectations. Theres
a fourth-century Roman tomb in the basement (labelled
room 19 on the museum plan), but its not always open.
QOpen 11:00 - 18:30. Closed Tue. Admission: 4Lv.
Guided tours in English: 15-30Lv (Monday free).
Churches
Holy Sunday Church (Tsurkva Sveta Nedelya) B-3,
pl. Sveta Nedelya, tel. 987 57 48. The main city-centre
church and the preferred venue for Saturday-afternoon
weddings, this nouveau-Byzantine structure is the twentieth-
Its not often that you come across a fourteenth-century

church stranded in the middle of a semi-submerged shopping
mall, but this is the fate that befell St Petka when Sofias
post-war planners decided to run a two-lane highway round
either side of it. Incongruously surrounded by glass-fronted
souvenir shops, its a delightful, cramped space that feels
more like a damp cave than a church, and features some
faded sixteenth-century frescoes.
Church of St Sofia (Tsurkva Sveta Sofia) B-4, ul.
Parizh 2, tel. 987 09 71. A church since the fifth century

and rebuilt many times since, this was used as a mosque
during the Ottoman period and then abandoned when an
earthquake rendered it unsafe for services. With most of its
medieval decorations and frescoes lost, its a comparatively
plain church by Sofia standards, but the patterned brickwork
provides the interior with enormous visual appeal. A fragment
of original Roman mosaic flooring, preserved under a pane
of glass in the right-hand aisle, stands in testimony to the
churchs ancient origins. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Church of the Holy Seven (Tsurkva Sveti Sedmochislentsi) C-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev, tel. 987 80 23.
One of Sofias most handsome neo-Byzantine churches, with

twentieth-century towers and domes tacked on to a much
older central core - which served as an Ottoman mosque
(then briefly as a Bulgarian prison) before reverting to its
original ecclesiastical function. The church honours ninthcentury Saints Cyril, Methodius and their five followers - who
brought literacy to the Slavs and propagated Christianity
throughout Eastern Europe. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Daily
liturgy 08:00 and 17:00
WHat to see
Mosque
Banya Bashi Mosque (Dzhamia Banya Bashi) B-3,
bul. Maria Luiza. The last surviving mosque in Sofia still in

use, the building consists of a large dome and an elegant
minaret and takes its name from the neighbouring Central
Baths - Banya Bashi literally means many baths. Dating
from 1576, the mosque is said to have been designed by
Hadji Mimar Sinan, the leading Ottoman architect of the day.
The mosque fell into disuse during Communist rule but is now
open for worship once again - you can hear the loudspeakers
on the minaret calling the Muslims of the city to prayer five
times a day. The mosque is not officially open as a tourist
attraction but visitors are welcome outside prayer times,
including women, if modestly dressed.
History, tel. 983 14 40, jewishmuseum@shalom.bg, Open

9:00-12:30 and 13:00-16:00. Closed on Sat, Sun. Lectures
in Bulgarian, English and Hebrew are included in the entrance
fee - 2Lv. Displayed are two permanent exhibitions The
Jewish communities in Bulgaria and The Holocaust and the
rescue of the Jews in Bulgaria. QThe Synagogue is open
08:30 - 16:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Sofia districts-Boyana and

Dragalevtsi
Synagogue
Sofia Synagogue A-3, ul. Ekzarh Yosif 16, tel. 983
12 73, fax 983 50 85, sofiasynagogue@mail.orbitel.
bg, www.sofiasynagogue.com. Dating from 1909, this
extravagant building is a fitting monument to the community that once made up one fifth of Sofias population.
Jewish leaders are widely thought to have dissuaded the
Turks from torching the city in 1878, and the respect they
commanded among their fellow citizens probably explains
why they felt able to erect such a joyously extrovert piece
of architecture right beside Sofias main street. Viennese
designer Friedrich Gruenanger mixed Byzantine and Moorish styles to produce a huge domed building flanked by
decorous turrets. Dominating feature of the interior is the
2250kg chandelier hanging from the cupola, surrounded by
Art Nouveau-inspired wall decorations. The synagogue was
originally built to accommodate around 1300 worshippers nowadays attendance figures at services hover around the
50-60 mark. The Synagogue gives certificates for kosher
(ehsher) for food and other products and offers, on request,
kosher and other traditional Jewish Sephardic dishes. On
the 2nd floor the Synagogue hosts The Jewish Museum of
Uphill For The Riches

Crawling all over the body of the Vitosha Mountain, the
neighborhoods of Boyana and Dragalevtsi are getting
bigger and more densely populated as bigger, better
and more expensive homes are being built, almost
overnight. They are both situated to the south of Sofia,
after the Ring road and climb up to a considerable
height. These living areas are occupied mostly by
wealthier people, government officials and politicians
and are considered as the best and most expensive to
live in. Of course, some contradicting sights as a huge,
expensive and modern house with a decaying street,
spotted with gaping holes, in front of it are quite common. The inclination of the landscape and the mountain
itself, present some problems for the locals, especially
in winter, when cars slide and people are tumbling down
the frozen streets. However, both neighborhoods exist
above the level of the city smog and just a single look
to the grey clouds down there would make everybody
envious of the local citizens. Local landmarks and
historical sights are the monastery in Dragalevtsi and
the Boyana Church, which is a part of the UNESCO World
Heritage List and definitely a compulsory place for all
tourists to visit. The National Historical Museum is also
located in Boyana, on the premises of the residence
of the former dictator Todor Zhivkov. Boyana is also
famous for the Film Center, which is used for local and
many foreign film productions.
Hopefully Boyana and Dragalevtsi will soon improve as
infrastructure and become a modern and elite suburban
area of Sofia.
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48
WHat to see
Statues
Aleksandar Stamboliyski B-4, Corner of ul. Rakovski
Ugly Sofia
and ul. Vrabcha. Leader of the Bulgarian National Peasants

Party, and Prime Minister from 1919 to 1923, Aleksandar
Stamboliyski presided over a radical government that promised fair land distribution and a revival of village life. Conservative circles feared a peasant revolution, and Stamboliyski
was overthrown, tortured, and chopped into several pieces by
paid killers - its a shame that nothing like this ever happened
to Todor Zhivkov. Stamboliyskis statue now stands beside
the Opera House (strangely, both the National Opera and the
National Peasants Party share the same building).
Evlogi and Hristo Georgievi B-5, Sofia University, bul.
Tsar Osvoboditel 15. The Georgiev brothers made their fortunes in nineteenth-century Odessa, then used their wealth to
fund the establishment of Bulgarian-language schools. Their
place in the countrys cultural pantheon assured, they now
bask beside the steps of Bulgarias biggest university like a
pair of contented walruses.
Monument to the Bulgarian State (Pametnik

na balgarskata darzhava) C-2, pl. Bulgaria. Sofia
Monument to Holy Wisdom (Statuya na Sveta Sofia) B-3, pl. Nezavisimost. Once occupied by a behemoth-
sized statue of Lenin, this prime city-centre site was left vacant throughout the 1990s, and it wasnt until the millennium
that this 24-metre-high bronze goddess - an allegory of Holy
Wisdom - appeared on the spot. The city of Sofia originally
got its name from the Church of Sveta Sofia (Holy Wisdom)
in the centre, and this statue was intended to symbolize the
connection. However it was far from clear how an abstract
concept like Holy Wisdom could be portrayed in a sculpture
(is it a bird? is it a plane? is it a 24-metre-high bronze woman?),
and Sofians remain unsure whether this shiny female with a
dove in her right hand really fits the bill.
Monument to the Tsar Liberator (Pametnik Tsar

Osvoboditel) B-4, pl. Narodno sabranie. This 14-metrehigh lump of bronze designed by Italian artist Arnoldo Zocci
honours Russian Tsar Alexander II who, by declaring war on
the Ottoman Empire in 1877, liberated Bulgaria in the process.
The reliefs surrounding the pedestal represent a scene in
which the godess of victory leads troops into battle.
is probably unique in Europe in being the only capital

which can boast a decaying pile of junk as one of its
major downtown focal points. Unveiled in 1981 to mark
the 1300th anniversary of the founding of the Bulgarian
state, this unimaginably shoddy memorial is an eloquent
metaphor for much that has happened in Bulgaria in the
intervening 25 years. It was barely a decade old when it
started falling to bits, and the question of who should pay
for its refurbishment (or demolition) has been the object
of inconclusive bickering ever since.
An angular piece of modern sculpture with statues
emerging absurdly from its summit, the monument has
long been the object of popular scorn - the seven-angled
thing with five pricks being the most enduring of its many
nicknames. Currently surrounded by hoardings to prevent
bits of it from falling on the heads of passers by, its future
remains uncertain.
The empty space in front of the National Gallery B-3, pl. Aleksandar Batenbeg. The empty space
in front of the national gallery stands in eloquent tribute

to the vacuous posturing of Bulgarias post-communist
rulers. The building that used to stand on this spot
was one of socialist-era Sofias principal landmarks, a
mausoleum, built to house the corpse of Bulgarias first
communist leader Georgi Dimitrov. Dimitrovs body was
removed in 1990, but arguments about how it is best to
use the building itself, dragged on for a decade. Eventually the right-wing government of Ivan Kostov decided
to blow the mausoleum up, believing that such an act
would somehow symbolize Bulgarias triumphant march
towards democracy. President, prime minister and foreign
dignitaries assembled to view the demolition in January
2000, only to discover that repeated detonations failed to
bring the mausoleum down. Eventually the crowds drifted
away, and the bulldozers were brought in.
WHat to see
Petko and Pencho Slaveykovi C-3, pl. Slaveykov.
Bulgarias foremost father-and-son literary duo perch on a

bench beside the square that, appropriately enough, now
hosts Sofias biggest book market. Educationalist, politician
and writer Petko Slaveykov (1827-1895) did much to preserve
Bulgarian literatures links with its folkloric roots; while his son
Pencho (1866-1912) took things a step further by penning
modern verse influenced by Romanticism, Symbolism and
other modish western currents.
Popa C-4, corner of ul. Graf Ignatiev and bul. Patriarh
Evtimiy. This rather unpretentious statue of a bearded

ecclesiastic honours Patriarch Euthymius (Patriarh Evtimiy in
Bulgarian), the fourteenth-century church leader who presided
over the flowering Bulgarian culture before being led into
captivity by the Ottoman Turks in 1393. Its nowadays the
most popular meeting point in the city - if youre going on a
date or a bar crawl, the chances are youll rendezvous here.
Popa is Bulgarian slang for priest.
Stefan Stambolov B-4, Corner of bul. Tsar Osvobodi-
tel and ul. Rakovski. Prime Minister from 1887 to 1894,

Stefan Stambolov was the most talented - but also the
most controversial - politician of his generation, pursuing
pro-western liberal policies while at the same time locking up
opponents and silencing the press. Sacked by Prince Ferdinand in May 1894, he was hacked to death on ul. Rakovski
by sword-wielding assassins 12 months later. This curiously
egg-shaped sculpture sprouting from a corner of Kristal park
serves as some kind of tribute.
St St Cyril and Methodius (Sveti Sveti Kiril i

Metodiy) B-5, bul. Vasil Levski 88. Standing proudly in
front of the colonnaded faade of the National Library, these
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WHat to see
Socialist Sofia
As with many authoritarian regimes throughout the
ages, Bulgarias communist rulers suffered from an
overweening desire to turn politics into a highly visible
part of the urban landscape. Government buildings were
conceived as grandiose statements of political order,
while statues of socialist heroes employed simple, often
childlike imagery to teach important ideological lessons.
Despite the demolition of many communist landmarks
after 1989 (notably the rotund statue of Lenin that once
rose like a malevolent iron pig above the central pl.
Nezavisimost), present-day Sofia still boasts a compelling collection of sites where you can examine socialist
art at first hand.
Friendship Bridge (Most na druzhbata) C-4,

crossing of ul. Graf Ignatiev and bul. Evlogi Georgiev.
Built in 1953 to symbolize brotherhood between Bulgaria
and the Soviet Union (a relationship in which one brother
was always bigger than the other), this bridge boasts an
impressive ensemble of sculptures, with statues representing the peasantry, the intelligentsia and the armed forces.
Most telling inclusion is the pair of nineteenth-century
Russian and Bulgarian soldiers on the north-eastern pier:
a clever piece of propaganda suggesting that the Soviet
Unions liberation of Bulgaria in 1945 was simply a repeat
performance of the Liberation of 1878.
Mound of Brotherhood (Bratska
mogila) G-8, Bori-
sova gradina. Many of

the artists responsible
for th e Soviet Army
Monument also worked
on the Mound of Brotherhood, a 42-metrehigh obelisk that rises
dramaticall y from a
ridge in the south-eastern corner of Borisova
gradina park. Built in
1956, it is intended to
commemorate those
who fought and fell in
various stages of the struggle against fascism - from the
Bulgarian communist uprising of September 1923 (a badlyplanned affair that culminated with most of the participants
being rounded up and shot) to the Red-Army offensives of
World War II. A monumental statue of machine-gun-toting
partisans stands at the base of the obelisk, while basreliefs on either side portray striking workers, and Soviet
troops being greeted by Bulgarian civilians.
flamboyant statue of a Red Army soldier, leading a Bulgarian

couple towards the Promised Land of communism. Bronze
bas-reliefs on either side of the pillar show scenes from the
October revolution, World War II battles, and Soviet troops
entering Bulgaria to be greeted joyfully by the locals. In 1993
Sofia City Council voted to destroy the monument, pointing
out quite rightly that it symbolized Bulgarias subservience
to a foreign power. Faced by opposition from the Bulgarian
Socialist Party, and discouraged by the potential cost of
its demolition, the Council had no choice but to leave the
monument as it is. For much of the last decade the area
around the monument has become the favoured meeting
point of Sofias skateboarders, although construction work
on the Sofia metro has recently encroached on their space.
Turn up on important dates like May 9 (the anniversary of
Germanys surrender in 1945) or September 9 (anniversary
of Bulgarias communist-led coup in 1944) and youll probably see die-hard communists gathering at the monument
to demonstrate their undying faith in the cause.
Statues outside Vasil Levski Stadium C-4, bul.

Evlogi Georgiev. Authoritarian regimes have frequently
exploited the popularity of sport to build a cult of strength,
discipline and order. Produced by a team of sculptors in
the mid-fifties, these idealized statues outside the main
entrance to the stadium are perfect examples of this cult
in action. Depicting footballers, athletes, gymnasts and
other examples of socialist achievement and perfection, the
statues were originally eight in number. An empty pedestal
marks the spot where one of them went missing, presumed
stolen, in the mid-1990s.
The Party House (Partien dom) B-3, pl. Nezavisimost. Sofia may lack the bombastic baroque skyscrapers,s
bestowed by Stalin on Moscow and Warsaw, but the
local ruling caste did at least make an effort with this
custard-coloured neo-classical edifice at the end of pl.
Nezavisimost. Built to house the Communist Party Central
Committee, it once sported a massive red star atop its
rocket-like spire - when protesters attempted to torch the
building in August 1990, the star was hastily removed. The
building now provides office space for Bulgarian MPs.
Soviet-style fresco E-4, wall of a school on ul. Sveti

Naum. Hidden from the street by a politically-prudish pair
of trees, this is one of the few examples of agit-prop art
still to be found in the city. The fatherly face of Lenin beams
down from one side of the wall, while a ruggedly handsome
cosmonaut smoulders away quietly on the other.
Soviet Army Monument (Pametnik na Savetskata armia) C-5, Orlov most. Built in 1954 by a team of
architects and artists working under Danko Mitov, this
is one of the best examples of socialist sculpture in
the Balkans, and also one of the most controversial. A
skyline-dominating 34-metre-high pillar, it is crowned by a
WHat to see
ninth-century monks from Thessaloniki are celebrated for
their invention of an entirely new alphabet, which they used
to translate the holy gospels into the Slav languages. Subsequently modified by their disciples, the alphabet is nowadays
known as Cyrillic, and is used in Russia, Ukraine, Belarus,
Macedonia and Serbia as well as in Bulgaria itself.
Other sights
impressive concert hall. The plase looks like a palace and the
concert hall used to be a ball room. Even though it is not a
regular club keep your eyes and ears wide-open for any event
which might take place there, and consider yourself fortunate
if you have the chance to attend one. The concert hall is often
rented out for private party events and it is guaranteed that
each one will be prestigious.
National Palace of Culture (Natsionalen dvorets na

kulturata) D-2, pl. Bulgaria 1, tel. 916 68 30, www.ndk.
bg. Opinions differ as to whether the largest multifunctional
complex in southeastern Europe is an attraction or an eyesore,
but its dominating position at the southern end of bul. Vitosha
makes it difficult to miss. Built in the 1980s this hexagonal lump
of concrete and glass looks like a childs building block inflated
to unearthly size. Inside lie thirteen concert halls of varying
sizes, fifty-five congress rooms, and innumerable offices, The
basement level now accommodates a cramped shopping mall
stuffed with inexpensive clothes and accessories.
The Central Baths (Tsentralna banya) B-3, bul.

Maria Luiza. Built in 1911 and decorated with exquisite tile
mosaics, this wonderful Art Nouveau-cum-Nouveau Byzantine
bathhouse is for many people the most beautiful building
in the capital. Derelict for many years and now undergoing
restoration and will probably re-surface in the near future as
a luxurious SPA and fitness center, so all this mineral water
will not run wasted.
The Central Military club (Tsentralen voenen klub)
B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 7, tel. 988 17 46. This three

storey monumental building, designed in the neo-renaissance
style , houses a cafe, an art gallery, 2 refined halls and an
51
52
WHat to see
Mount Vitosha
Vitosha Mountain is the closest to Sofia skiing
location. Its just about half an hour uphill. The climate is

fairly mild, however, it can become quite cold above 1200
meters. There are two peaks, which are more than 2000
meters high, including Cherni Vrah Vitoshas champion,
and 18 peaks are more than 1500 meters above sea
level. There are 13 ski tracks of varied difficulty - the
easiest are Polyana, Lale (educational) and Zelena Pista;
the moderately difficult tracks are: ski path Laleto, Sinya
pista, Cherni vrah, Laleto 3; it is difficult to ride on: Diagonala 1, Diagonala 2, Stenata, Laleto 1 and very difficult
on the runs Kozirkata na Bobi, and Laleto 2. The most
hard working of you, who just can miss those morning
hours on the job also have the possibility for practicing
their favorite sport - there is a ski track for night skiing
Vitoshko lale. You can get there by bus, by car and by the
so called mini buses.
Lift lines:
Simeonovo Aleko chalet 8.30 16.30 (bus lines
122 and 123)
Dragalevtsi Bay Krastyo Goli Vrah 8.30 16.30
(bus line 93)
The prices varied from 35.00Lv per day to 147.00Lv
for 6 days lift pass. The lift passes are valid for all of
the facilities in the Aleko ski zone, except Dragalevki lift.
Sofia bridges
When you walk through Sofia downtown two bridges can

fix your eyes not with the large rivers, which runs under
them, but with their architectural values.
Lavov Most (Lions Bridge) over the Vladaiska River
is well known with its four lions statues placed on high
pedestals. It was built in 1889-1891 by Czech architect
Vclav Proek, his brother Jozef and his cousins Bohdan
and Ji. The bridge was built from stone at the place of an
older bridge called Sharen most (Motley Bridge) because
it was decorated with red and yellow stripes. The name of
the bridge comes from the four bronze sculptures of lions,
its most recognizable feature. All metal elements of the
bridge were produced by the Austrian company of Rudolph
Philipp Waagner, and electric lights were installed in the
early 1900s. The entire construction of the bridge cost
260,000 golden leva which amounts to approximately 1
433 425,97 EUR today.The Proek family also designed
and built the similar but eagle-themed Orlov most marking
the city centres eastern border in 1891.
Orlov most (Eagles Bridge) is well distinguished by its
four bronze eagles, which are facing the four directions of
the world and are mounted on 12-metre pylons. Perlovska
River runs under the bridge in the city center. The bridge
is located in the immediate proximity to the Vasil Levski
National Stadium, the Monument to the Soviet Army and
the park Borisova gradina. The bridge connects Sofia
downtown with Mladost quarter and also you can go
through it if you want to go to Sofia airport or to go out
into the Trakia highway to Plovdiv. The entire construction
of the bridge cost 80,000 golden leva which amounts to
approximately 440 800 EUR today.
WHat to see
The Presidency B-3, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 2. Directly
opposite the archeological museum is the entrance to the

suite of offices where the Bulgarian president does his
nine-to-five job, guarded by soldiers dressed in ceremonial
nineteenth-century uniforms. The changing of the guard, which
takes place on the hour, involves a lot of ritualistic marching
about, and is well worth watching.
Tsentralni hali B-3, bul. Maria Luiza 28. Built at the

same time as the Central Baths and in similar architectural
vein, this indoor market hall boasts some beautifully restored
period features - notably the glass roof, cast iron pillars and
Victorian clock tower. Delicatessen stalls at ground level and
fast food counters upstairs ensure a constant stream of visitors. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.
53
54
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Public transport
Sofia is amply covered by an interlocking network of trams,
buses and trolleybuses, with services running from about
05:00 to 23:30. Despite some new additions to the fleet,
however, vehicles tend to be antiquated, filthy, overcrowded
and above all slow: it can take half a lifetime to cross the
city from one side to the other. An additional problem is
posed by the lack of information concerning routes - while
bus and tram stops in the city centre are marked with
numbers of services and details (in Cyrillic) of destinations
served, those in the suburbs are invariably rusty old shacks
bearing no information whatsoever. Your only hope is to
buy a decent city map with tram and bus lines marked on
it - then study it for as many months as it takes to learn
them all by heart.
Single-journey tickets cost 1Lv and can be bought from street
kiosks or from the driver. Once on board each ticket must
be validated by punching it in one of the primitive pronged
machines positioned near the doors of the vehicle. A strip
(talon) of 10 tickets costs 7.50Lv but take care to use them
in sequence - tickets numbered 1 to 9 are not valid unless
youve still got the tenth one in your possession. Officially,
youre supposed to punch an extra ticket for each large item
of baggage, but in practice this is rarely enforced - except
on buses to and from the airport. Inspections are frequent
and there are spot-fines for fare-dodgers - officially 10Lv,
although unscrupulous inspectors delight in making foreigners pay more.
Passes valid for one day (karta za edin den - 4Lv), or one
month (karta za edin mesets - 50Lv), are also available - but
they can only be bought from kiosks at major stops, not
from the driver.
Minibus
Several popular cross-town routes are operated by privately
owned minibuses (marshrutki). Rather than being limited to
specific stops, they can be hailed at any point along their
route, and will drop passengers off on request. There arent
any tickets: simply jump in, press yourself into an available corner, and pass 1.50Lv forward towards the driver.
Many people prefer marshrutki to regular buses because
of their speed and convenience; others are turned off by
the tendency of drivers to pack passengers in like sardines
and then career around the city like crazed drag racers. If
youre in any way prone to travel sickness, dont forget to
take a puke bag.
Metro
A single metro line runs from Serdika station in the city
centre to the western suburb of Lyulin - which is great if
you happen to live in Lyulin, but not much use otherwise.
If you fancy a ride just for the heck of it, tickets (1Lv) are
different from those used in trams and buses, and can
only be purchased from ticket counters in the underground
stations themselves.
Domestic train schedule

From Sofia
Dep.
Arr.
06:30
06:38
08:30
10:40
13:45
14:15
15:30
16:30
16:55
17:30
18:35
19:10
22:40
06:30
07:10
10:40
13:45
16:00
22:20
07:05
07:45
09:55
15:30
19:30
23:00
23:35
07:05
09:55
10:40
13:25
21:10
22:20
23:35
08:27
09:40
10:48
13:04
16:05
17:16
17:29
18:29
20:20
19:52
20:50
21:10
01:10
12:27
14:00
18:00
20:52
22:14
07:07
13:38
14:05
17:16
21:48
02:05
05:41
07:11
14:04
17:55
19:15
21:18
05:25
06:43
07:45
To Sofia
Destination Dep.
Arr.
PLOVDIV
PLOVDIV
PLOVDIV
PLOVDIV
PLOVDIV
PLOVDIV
PLOVDIV
PLOVDIV
PLOVDIV
PLOVDIV
PLOVDIV
PLOVDIV
PLOVDIV
BURGAS
BURGAS
BURGAS
BURGAS
BURGAS
BURGAS
RUSE
RUSE
RUSE
RUSE
RUSE
RUSE
RUSE
VARNA
VARNA
VARNA
VARNA
VARNA
VARNA
VARNA
06:00
06:30
07:00
08:00
08:30
11:45
12:00
13:00
14:10
15:40
17:25
18:10
19:40
05:30
06:55
10:40
14:20
15:40
22:15
06:00
08:02
11:15
13:10
15:20
21:55
23:30
07:55
09:20
10:55
12:40
21:40
22:30
23:05
08:37
10:09
09:18
10:20
10:50
14:20
15:07
15:34
17:30
18:17
20:30
20:46
21:55
11:40
14:20
18:17
21:15
21:55
05:35
12:34
14:58
18:54
20:36
21:33
06:30
06:00
14:58
18:17
18:54
20:36
06:00
06:30
07:25
For further information call tel.932 42 80
International train schedule

From Sofia
Dep.
Arr.
07:01
17:05
07:45
19:30
11:55
21:20
19:10
12:54
22:52
17:19
05:44
19:18
04:48
08:19
Destination
THESSALONICA
THESSALONICA
BUCHAREST
BUCHAREST
BELGRADE
BELGRADE
ISTANBUL
To Sofia
Dep.
Arr.
17:34
23:49
12:16
20:04
07:50
21:15
22:00
23:25
06:30
21:33
06:00
17:40
07:15
10:50
For further information call tel.932 42 80
Trains
Central Station (Tsentralna gara) F-7, bul. Mariya
Luiza, tel. 931 11 11 / 932 33 33 (information in Bulgarian only). English-language timetable information on
www.bdz.bg. Despite recent renovation Sofias main train
station remains a dispiritingly dingy hive, comprising two
The Sofia
GettInG aroUnd
Flight schedule
From Sofia
Days
1 - 3 4 - 67
-2--5-1-3---- - - - 5 67
1 2 3 4 5 67
1 2 34 5 - 12-45-1---------5-123---1 2 3 4 5 67
1 2 34 5 67
-2-4-61 2 34 5 67
- - - - - 67
-2----1-3-5-7
1 2 3 4 5 67
1 2 34 5 67
1 2 3 4 5 67
1 - 3- 5 - 7
1 2 3 4 5 67
12345-1 2 3 4 5 67
1 2 3 4 5 67
Dep.
Arr.
07:00
09:50
07:00
18:15
16:10
09:30
06:15
09:20
10:25
10:45
07:45
14:30
12:45
20:40
07:00
13:10
07:55
15:05
06:50
15:10
06:10
08:45
17:50
15:20
14:40
09:00
11:50
08:15
19:30
16:30
10:15
07:45
10:50
11:55
12:00
09:15
15:45
13:55
21:50
08:00
14:10
10:00
17:00
07:45
16:05
07:10
09:35
18:40
16:05
15:35
Destination
AMSTERDAM FB
AMSTERDAM FB
ATHENS FB
ATHENS OA
BUDAPEST MA
BUCHAREST FB
FRANKFURT LH
FRANKFURT FB
ISTANBUL FB
ISTANBUL TK
LONDON FB
LONDON BA
MILAN WA
MILAN AZ
MUNICH LH
MUNICH LH
PARIS FB
PARIS AF
PRAGUE OK
PRAGUE OK
ROME WA
VIENA OS
VIENA OS
VIENA OS
WARSAW LO
To Sofia
Days
Dep.
Arr.
1-3 4-67
-2 5 -1-3 ---1----67
123 45 67
123 45 -12-45 --23 45 67
----5 -12 3 ---12 3 45 67
12 3 45 67
-2 -4-612 3 45 67
12 3 45 67
123 45 67
1-3 -5 -7
1-3 45 -7
123 45 67
-2-45 6123 45 67
12 3 45 67
12 3 45 67
123 45 67
12 3 45 67
10:40
12:50
09:00
16:10
13:05
10:55
10:35
18:30
12:55
08:30
10:30
08:35
19:35
07:05
09:30
13:00
11:40
10:20
07:25
11:30
13:05
10:50
13:40
17:55
11:00
14:10
16:30
10:15
17:25
15:25
11:40
13:50
21:55
14:30
09:45
15:30
13:45
22:35
17:00
12:30
16:00
15:30
14:05
09:00
14:25
16:00
13:30
16:20
22:25
13:55
Airlines codes: AF- Air France, AZ- Alitalia , BA - British Airways, FB - Bulgaria Air, LH - Lufthansa, LO - Lot Polish Airlines,
MA - Malev Hungarian Airlines , OA - Olympic Airlines, OS - Austrian Airlines, OK - Czech Airlines, RO - Tarom Romanian
Airlines, TK - Turkish Airlines, WA Wizz Air
For further information call tel. 937 22 11, 937 22 12
www.flybulgaria.bg
floors of queue-clogged ticket counters, functional cafes
and hole-in-the-wall shops. Brightening things up considerably is the flirty little steam engine (built by the German
Henschel company in 1918) parked right in the middle of
the main ticket hall.
Always allow plenty of time to buy your tickets and board
your train: platforms are often numbered differently to
the tracks running either side of them, so you may find
yourself scuttling up and down several stairways in an
effort to locate your train. Tickets to Varna and northern
Bulgaria are sold in the main ticket hall; tickets to Burgas
and southern Bulgaria are sold in the basement. International tickets are sold by the Rila office, which is located
at the end of a corridor leading off the main ticket hall to
the left as you enter.
Tickets can be bought in advance from two locations in the
city centre: Transport Service Centre, in the basement
shopping mall of the National Palace of Culture (NDK), tel.
932 42 80. Open Mon - Sat 07:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun,
and Railway Ticket Agency Rila /international lines/,
ul. Gurko 5, tel. 987 07 77. Open Mon - Sat 07:00 - 18:30.
Closed Sun.
Bus schedule
To Burgas - 07:00, 07:30, 08:00, 08:30, 09:45, 10:00,
10:30, 11:00, 12:00, 12:30, 13:00, 13:30, 15:00, 15:30,
16:00, 16:30,16:45, 17:00, 18:00, 20:30, 22:30, 23:00,
00:00, 00:30
To Bansko 07:30, 08:30, 09:45,11:25, 13:15, 14:00,
16:45
To Ruse 06:15, 07:00, 08:00, 08:30, 09:30, 10:30,
12:00, 12:30, 13:00, 14:00, 14;30, 15:00, 15:30, 16:00,
17:00, 17:30, 18:30, 19:00, 22:00
To Varna 06:30, 07:30, 07:45, 08:00, 08:30, 09:00,
09:45, 10:30, 11:00, 12:30, 13:00, 13:30, 14:00,
14.30, 15:00, 15:30, 16:00, 17;30, 18:00, 19:00, 22:30,
00:00, 00:30
To Veliko Turnovo 06:15, 06:30, 07:30, 08:00, 08:30,
09:00, 09:45, 10:30, 11:00, 12:00, 12:30, 13:00, 13:30,
14:00, 14:30, 15:00, 15:30, 16:00, 17:00, 17:30, 18:00,
19:00, 22:30, 00:30
To Sandanski 07:40, 07:55, 09;00, 10:00, 10:40,
11:20, 12:00, 13:00, 14:00, 15:00, 15:30, 16:00,
17:00, 18:00
To Melnik 14:00
For further information call tel. 0900 210 00
55
56
GettInG aroUnd
Buses
Central Bus Station (Tsentralna avtogara) F-7,
bul. Maria Luiza 100, tel. 0900 21 000, fax 813 31

44, w w w.centralnaav togara.bg. Opened in 2004,
Sofias sparkly glass-fronted bus terminal is everything
that the train station fails to be: bright, clean, and well
furnished with toilets, cafes, and nappy-changing areas so
delightful that we almost wish we still wore them. Finding
out where to buy a ticket can be a bit of a hassle: a main
ticket counter handles most services, but there are over
40 smaller sales desks serving individual bus companies
- some of these offer a wide range of popular destinations
in Bulgaria and abroad, while others operate a once-in-ablue-moon service to Outer Mongolia and precious little
else. An information desk near the entrance may direct
you to the ticket desk you require, but only if the staff are
in a good mood.
There are plenty of companies here offering direct services
to European cities: doing international trips by bus is usually faster and more comfortable than by train. QOpen
00:00 - 24:00.
Ovcha kupel G-6, bul. Ovcha kupel 1, tel. 955 53 62.
Several domestic services to destinations south of Sofia
(such as Dupnitsa, Rila Monastery and Melnik) leave from
Ovcha kupel bus station, 5km southwest of the centre. To
get there take tram No. 5 from ul. Alabin or tram No. 19 from
the Central Station. QOpen 06:30 - 18:30.
Trafik-Market F-7, bul. Maria Luiza, tel. 981 29 79.
Many international bus services (including plenty to Macedonia and Greece) leave from this parking lot immediately to
the west of the Central Bus Station. Theres a timetable board
detailing departures, a confusion of kiosks selling tickets for
individual services, and plenty of shops and cafs. There
arent any other facilities on offer here, but as youre only
a stones throw away from the train and bus stations, this
shouldnt be a hardship.
Yug G-8, bul. Dragan Tsankov 23, tel. 872 23 45. This
hard-to-find bus station hidden beneath a road bridge is the
place to catch buses to the town of Samokov southeast of
Sofia, which is in turn the main jumping-off point for the ski
resort of Borovets. To reach the bus station take tram No.18
to the Hotel Moskva and walk the remaining 400m down
Dragan Tsankov. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.
Airport
Sofia International Airport (Letishte Sofia) G-9,
bul. Christopher Columbus 1, tel. 937 22 11/937

22 12, public@sofia-airport.bg, www.sofia-airport.
bg. Located 10km east of the city centre, Sofia Airport
consists of two terminals, the grotty Terminal 1 and the
recently opened Terminal 2. Aeroflot, Alitalia, Air France,
Austrian, Bulgaria Air, British Airways, Lufthansa etc. fly
from Terminal 2 and the low-cost companies EasyJet, Sky
Europe, Wizzair, My air, etc. fly from Terminal 1, so doublecheck which terminal you need before setting out (the
terminals are not within walking distance of each other).
Budget airlines
Germanwings , tel. 0044 8702 521 250, www.
germanwings.com. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00.
Myair , tel. 0044 2073 651 597, info@myair.com,
www.myair.com.
Sky Europe , tel. 489 48 99, sales@skyeurope.com,
www.skyeurope.com.
Wizzair , tel. 960 38 88, www.wizzair.com.
Both terminals have free Wi-Fi hot spot zone, limited eating and drinking facilities, souvenir shop on Terminal 1 and
souvenirs, leather goods, electronics, fashion, optics and
tobacco shops on Terminal 2, as well as business class
lounge at the Departure hall.
To get to the airport from the city centre, a properly metered
taxi shouldnt cost more than 16Lv (8). Otherwise, head for
Orlov Most (C-3) and take bus No 84 to Terminal 1, or No 284
to Terminal 2. Tickets cost 1Lv, as well as each bulky piece
of luggage. Q PAULGKW
Airlines
Aeroflot B-5, ul. Zlaten Rog 22 fl.1 office 2B, tel.
962 10 01, fax 962 55 66, sofrepr@aeroflot.ru, www.

aeroflot.ru. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Aerosvit A-3, bul. Maria Luiza 9-11, fl. 2, tel. 980 78
80, aerosvit@nettisat.bg, www.aerosvit.com. QOpen
09:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Air France B-3, ul. Frityof Nansen 9, 3d floor, tel.
939 70 10, fax 939 70 35, mail.sofia@airfrance.fr,
www.airfrance.com. Q Open 09:00 - 17:30. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Alitalia C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 5, tel. 981 67 02/980
69 30, fax 981 67 04, info.sofia@alitalia.it, www.alitalia.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Austrian Airlines G-7, ul. Zlaten rog 12, tel. 806 00
00, fax 962 42 40, sofia.office@aua.com, www.austrianairlines.bg. Sofia Airport G-9, tel. 937 31 33. Open
07:00-18:00 QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
British Airways C-2, bul. Patriarh Evtimiy 49, tel. 954
70 00, fax 954 80 00, retailsales.1.sofia@britishairways.com, www.britishairways.com. Sofia Airport G-9,
tel. 937 31 11. Open 09:00-17:00 QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Bulgaria Air D-2, ul. Ivan Vazov 2, tel. 402 04 06, fax
986 24 88, tickets1@air.bg, www.air.bg. Sofia Airport
G-9, tel. 937 33 70. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00, Sat 08:30 14:00. Closed Sun.
Czech Airlines B-3, ul. Serdika 22, tel. 981 54 08,
fax 981 13 86, ticketing.sof@czechairlines.com,
www.czechairlines.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
LOT Polish Airlines B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski
27A, tel. 987 45 62, fax 980 32 93, a.petrov@lot.pl,
www.lot.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Lufthansa B-3, Platinium Business Center, ul. Bacho
Kiro 26-30, tel. 930 42 42, fax 981 29 11, lufthansabg@dlh.de, www.lufthansa.com. Sofia Airport G-9. tel.
937 31 41. Open 05:00-20:00 QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Malev Hungarian Airlines C-3, bul. Patriarh Evtimiy
19, tel. 981 50 91, fax 981 50 96, sofia@malev.hu,
www.malev.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat,
Sun.
Olympic Airlines B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski
55, tel. 981 45 45, fax 980 10 50, sofia@olympicair-bg.
com, www.olympicairlines.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Turkish Airlines B-3, ul. Saborna 11A, tel. 988 35 96,
fax 980 41 51, thu-sof-sat@medicom.bg, www.thy.com.
Taxis
There are over 15,000 taxis in Sofia: some of these are
rusty crates driven by frustrated rally drivers; the majority
are roadworthy vehicles operated by more-or-less reputable companies. Legitimate taxis are coloured yellow and
GettInG aroUnd
Taxi companies
OK Supertrans tel. 973 21 21, for mobile 1TAXI, www.
oktaxi.net.
Taxi S Express tel. 9 12 80, for mobile 1280, www.
taxi91280.net/.
Radio CV Taxi tel. 9 12 63.
Ricars Taxi tel. 9 11 14.
have an oval sticker on the windscreen; they also display
a square sticker indicating the rates in BGN. Charges are
supposed to be metered, but some drivers will switch the
meter off and demand an inflated fare if they think youre
a gullible foreigner. By law a receipt should be issued for
every taxi ride you take. The charges are cheap, ranging
from 0.59Lv - 0.70Lv per kilometre. The agreeing of flat-rate
fares beforehand is a common practice, even in licensed
cabs, especially for destinations outside the city limits. A
tip of 10-15% is common practice. Most taxis hang around
at the big intersections, although you can order them by
phone - just dont expect to get through to an Englishspeaker (you can always ask your hotel receptionist to do
it for you). Dont be surprised if your driver doesnt have a
detailed knowledge of the city and asks you for directions.
Few drivers speak a foreign language.
Youd be well advised to stick to the taxi companies recommended below in order to keep overcharging problems to a
minimum, although youre unlikely to survive without being
ripped off at least once during your stay.
Tany 97 G-8, ul. Anton Chehov 69, tel. 970 85 00,

reservations@tany97.com, www.tany97.com. Sofia
Airport, Arrivals hall G-9, tel. 0889 998 998. Q Open
09:00 - 18:00.
Thrifty Car Rental F-8, ul. Kozlodui 4, tel. 931 60
00/0887 503 030, fax 931 60 09, reservations@thrifty.
bg. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Top rent-a-car C-3, bul. Vasil Levski 41, tel. 981 53
81/0888 333 548, office@toprentacar.bg, w w w.

toprentacarbg.com.
Car rental
Travel agencies
Avis F-6, ul. Orion 84, tel. 826 11 00, fax 827 30 57,
Alma Tour B-3, ul. Serdika 12, tel. 805 68 00/981 31
reservations@avis.bg, www.avis.bg. Sofia Airport, Terminal 2 G-9, tel.945 92 24. Open 09:00 - 21:00. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00.
CarRent G-9, bul. Iskarsko shose 13, tel. 960 14

08/0888 221 600, fax 960 14 46, carrent@promobile.bg, www.carrent.bg. Free delivery/collection
24hours/day, 7days/week.
Car Rental Bulgaria H-9, bul. Tsarigradsko shose

62, tel. 974 36 63/0889 993 663, fax 974 18 81,
office@carrental.bg, www.carrental.bg. QOpen 09:00
- 18:00.
Europcar B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 20b, tel.
981 46 26, fax 980 85 78, reservations@europcar.
bg, www.europcar.com. Sofia Airport, Arrivals hall G-9,
Terminal 1, tel. 945 92 83. Terminal 2, tel. 945 92 66. Free
delivery / collection, 7 days / week. Hot line 0884 816 666.
Open 09:00-21:00.
Hertz G-7, bul. Nikola Vaptsarov 53, Seat showroom,
tel. 439 12 22, fax 439 12 25, office@hertz.bg, www.
hertz.bg. Sofia Airport, Arrivals hall G-9, tel. 945 92 17. Open
08:30 - 23:00. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun.
Hire My Car G-6, , tel. 955 92 55/0888 55 92 55, fax
955 61 22, office@hiremycarbg.com, www.hiremycarbg.
com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Miama rent-a-car G-6, ul. Aleksandar Pushkin 38, tel.
0889 602 060/0888 778 866, info@miama-rentacar.
com, www.miama-rentacar.com. Luxury rent-a-car service.
38, outgoing@almatour.net, incoming@almatour.net,

airtickets@almatour.net, www.almatournet. QOpen
09:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.
Jamadvice Travel Ltd. G-8, ul. Asen Zlatarov 10,
tel. 943 30 11, fax 946 12 61, mark@btibulgaria.com.
International airline tickets and business travel.
Lyuba Tours D-4, ul. Tsanko Tserkovski 22, tel. 963
33 43, fax 963 31 42, info@lyubatours.com, www.lyubatours.com. Small-group weekend trips within Bulgaria to
places of historical, cultural and ethnographic interest.
Polytours Tsar Asen 61, tel. 981 12 22, fax 980 41
25, tours@polytours.com, www.polytours.com. QOpen
9:00 - 18.30. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Stars travel C-2, ul. Khan Asparuh 57, tel. 811 47 81,
fax 811 47 82, office@starstravel.info, www.starstravel.
info. International airline tickets and business travel
Usit Colours C-3, bul. Vasil Levski 35, tel. 981 19 00,
fax 981 99 91, sofia@usitcolours.bg, www.usitcolours.
bg. Specialists in youth and student travel.
Zig Zag Holidays B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski
20V, tel. 980 51 02, fax 980 32 00, info@zigzagbg.
com, www.zigzagbg.com. Bulgarian independent travel
specialists organizing hiking trips, B&B reser vations,
car rental, and tailor-made excursions into the great
outdoors.
ZIP Travel C-1, bul. Praga 8, tel. 917 59 30, fax 917 59
49, sofia@ziptravel.bg, www.ziptravel.bg. International
company specialised in student travel and training, exchange
programs and low price air tickets.
US$1 - 1.40Lv; 1 1.95Lv; 1

2.08Lv (January 2009)
57
58
sHoPPInG
Sofias smartest shops - including any number of international designer outlets - jostle for attention along either
side of bul. Vitosha, the citys main north-south pedestrian, trams and police only, shopping street. Mainstream
clothes, domestic and electrical stores can also be found
in abundance along consumer-clogged streets like ul. Graf
Ignatiev and ul. Pirotska.
Ploshtad Aleksandur Nevski
24hr food and drink

Familia C-3, bul. Rakovski 147, tel. 980 71 05. QOpen
00:00 - 24:00.
Fantastiko B-5, bul. Madrid 8, tel. 988 65 90, www.
ff-bg.net. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Magazin 345 B-3, ul. Veslets 4, tel. 988 98 75. QOpen
00:00 - 24:00. PA
Antiques & Collectables

Antikvariat Zlatorog A-4, ul. Pop Bogomil 10, tel. 983
35 08, vanili_@abv.bg, www.antikvariatzlatorog.com.

Offering everything from chintzy crockery to dressing-tables,
wardrobes and hat-stands, Zlatorog is a must-visit for retrofurnishing freaks. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun.
Letostrui C-3, bul. Vasil Levski 9, tel. 988 18 81. Furniture, porcelain and other oddments. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Strash A-3, ul. Tsar Simeon 41A, tel. 983 93 08. If
you collect stamps, old postcards or vintage cartoons, this
is your place. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun.
Viga Antiques B-3, ul. Alabin 50, tel. 980 54 07. Antiques from folk costumes to clocks. QOpen 10:30 - 19:30,
Books
Booktrading C-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev 50, tel. 981 04
48. One of the best of the high-street bookstores, with a

good selection of English, French and German paperbacks,
ar t books, and international guidebooks (Eyewitness,
Rough Guides and more). Q Open 08:30 - 20:30, Sun
10:00 - 20:00.
Helikon C-2, bul. Patriarh Evtimiy 68, tel. 987 19 19,
bigbookshop@helikon.bg, www.helikon.bg. Browserfriendly bookstore on three floors with a smattering of
English-language titles, international guide books including
Rough Guides, and a small cafe where readings are sometimes held. The other bookshop from the Helikon chain is
on bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 17 B-2, tel. 988 40 29, email - officeeubcc@helikon.bg QOpen 09:30 - 20:30, Sun
10:00 - 20:30. A
Interkniga B-5, ul. Shipka 6, tel. 944 41 41/0899 973
966. Inside the headquarters of the Bulgarian Artists Union,
this bookshop has lots of full-colour art books, and some
English-language paperbacks. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:30 - 16:30. Closed Sun.
Ploshtad Slaveykov
Ploshtad Slaveykov C-3, . This long rectangular
square is home to a hugely enjoyable book market. If your
language skills arent quite up to the latest in Bulgarian
fiction then you can at least browse your way through
lavishly illustrated books on Bulgarian culture, or pick up
the Bulgarian-English phrasebook you always pined for.
QOpen 09:30 - 19:00.
Ploshtad Aleksandar Nevski B-4, . Open-air brica-brac market offering communist-era medals, stamps,
postcards, junk from grannys attic, and some genuine antiques. Lace-makers and embroiderers sell their wares at
the eastern end of the strip on the corner of pl. Aleksandur
Nevski and ul. 11 August. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Knigomania B-1, Mall of Sofia, bul. Aleksandar Stam-
boliyski 101, tel. 980 52 14, office@knigomania.bg,

www.knigomania.bg. Bright modern browser-friendly bookstore with a good selection of English-language paperbacks,
international guidebooks, and maps. Also sells CDs and DVDs.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A
Nissim Books C-4, bul. Vasil Levski 59, tel. 981 19
12, boyana@nissimbooks.com, www.nissimbooks.com.
Charming cubby-hole with a few English titles. All the staff are
book enthusiasts and they will gladly try and seek out rare or
unsual tomes that cant be found elsewhere. QOpen 11:00
- 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:30. Closed Sun. A
Orange C-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev 18, tel. 980 82 07, orangegraf@pe-bg.com. Multi-media store with four floors of stationery, toys, books, CDs and games. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Fri
09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. PA
Zig Zag Holidays B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 20, tel. 980 51 02, info@zigzagbg.com, www.
zig zagbg.com. This independent travel agent has a
better selection of maps of Bulgaria than any other shop
weve encountered in the capital. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. A
Clothes & Accessories

525 C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 8, tel. 980 64 10. Snazzy,
locally-made clothes for the slightly off-the-wall trendsetter,

plus lots of eccentric accoutrements. QOpen 10:30 - 19:00,
Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Artishock B-2, ul. Ivaylo 28, tel. 0898 826 161/0888
091 661, office@artishock.bg, www.artishock.bg. Personal and home accessories. Online and offline shop.
Atelie Mirella Bratova C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 4, tel.
980 71 56, www.mirellabratova.com. Stylish bohemian
fashion creations from the inspired Ms Bratova, and auraemanating ethno-pendants by Daniela Andreevska. QOpen
10:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Muhomorka C-3, ul. Ivan Shishman 45, tel. 958 29 85,
www.muhomorka.biz. Aladdins cave of colourful clothes
and eastern-influenced textiles. They also sell large-format
cigarette papers but we dont understand what these might
be used for. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
sHoPPInG
Shopping smarts
Open
Closed
Push
Pull
Monday
Tuesday
Wednesday
Thursday
Friday
Saturday
Sunday
Otvoreno
Zatvoreno
Butni
Drapni
Ponedelnik
Vtornik
Sryada
Chetvurtak
Petuk
Subota
Nedelya
Punto & Kanela C-3, ul. Neofit Rilski 52, tel. 0888
413 749, mokanova@abv.bg. Small but chic collection of
domestic designer woolens, and some imaginative necklaces
and bracelets. QOpen 11:00 - 19:30, Sat 11:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. A
The Earth Collection C-4, ul. Ivan Shisman 20, tel.
0885 807 764. For the first time in Bulgaria, the well known
brand of environmentally friendly clothes made of 100%
refined natural fabrics mixing raw silk, cotton, ramie, hemp
and linen. Lightweight, breathable, long lasting and elegant
clothes. Garments with versability, wearability and comfort.
Cosmetics
Boutique Estee Lauder-Clinique-Aramis C-2, bul.
Vitosha 67, tel. 987 24 52, elboutique@esteelauderbg.
com, www.esteelauder.com. Top-of-the-range fragrances.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 18:00. A
Casyopea C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 19, tel. 852 64 78,
office@casyopea.com, www.casyopea.com. Natural
cosmetics store with enough varieties of soap to keep you
smelling sweet for several lifetimes. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sun. A
com. Looks like a regular domestic carpet shop from the

outside but is also Sofias leading outlet for authentic allwool kilims made in the weaving town of Chiprovtsi. With a
selection of small rugs in stock, they also take orders for
kilims if you have a couple of months to spare. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
Dar za gorene C-3, bul. Fridtyof Nansen 19, tel.
0888 647 516, nuna76@mail.bg, www.darzagorene.
com. In the little candle shop of Nuna and Duraid you
can find their 100% hand made candles, decorated with
symbols, by which they are trying to send different messages to the world: save the nature, discover the beauty
of the ancient Bulgarian art motives, feel the harmony
and love - all of these messages are the main inspirers of
their work and life.
Ethnographic Museum Shop B-3, pl. Aleksandar
Batenberg 1. Folk costumes, traditional crockery, ethno
jewellery and music CDs. Its one of the best places to buy
Bulgarian kilims - at 160Lv per square metre theyre probably more expensive here than in their villages of origin, but
authentic and affordable handiwork nevertheless. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00.
Galeria Gaya C-5, ul. Krakra 19, tel. 0884 177 005,
syana@gayabg.com, www.gayabg.com. Handmade
greetings cards and wonderfully outlandish ceramics make
this a great place to seek out gifts for the arty individualist in your life. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun.
Kikka B-5, ul. Shipka 28, tel. 0888 888 727. Contemporary ceramics from earnest clay-pummelling types. Affordable domestic items as well as more upmarket sculptural
pieces. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30, Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Closed
Sun. A
Punto C-4, ul. Yuri Venelin 12, tel. 986 39 31, titi.
ovanesova@abv.bg. Classy designer jewellery made by local
artists, alongside a big range of affordable brooches, beads,
earrings and other fashion trinkets. Also curious ceramics,
small-format oil paintings and reproduction icons. QOpen
11:00 - 19:30. Closed Sun. A
Traditzia
Culinary shops
Fontanite A-2, ul. Vranaya 34-36, tel. 931 19 65. Delicatessen store, importing tasty goods directly from Italy. They
prepare tiramisu on the spot.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Flowers
Bouquet C-3, ul. Rakovski 147, tel. 988 51 97. Phone
orders taken on tel. 098 14 14. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.
Feite C-3, ul. Rakovski 147, tel. 980 18 10. Also at ul.
Graf Ignatiev 41. Elegant gift packaging.
QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00
- 21:00.
Tsvetna magia B-2, ul. Knyaz Boris I 99, tel. 980 47 83,
info@flowersmagic.com, www.flowersmagic.com.
Gifts & Souvenirs

Balgarski dyukyan A-2, ul. Pirotska 11. Enough folksy
crockery, embroidered tablecloths, and Turkish-style copper

coffee pots to decorate that designer Balkan peasant kitchen
of your dreams. QOpen 09:30 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun.
Carpet House/Tchu kilim A-4, ul. Rakovski 38, tel.
983 66 09, sales@tchukilim.com, www.tchukilim.
Traditzia C-3, bul. Vasil Levski 36, tel. 981 77 65,
office@traditzia.bg, www.traditzia.bg. In terms of

quality and variety, Traditzia is about as good as Sofias
gift shops get. Founded seven years ago by volunteers
from Sofias international community, it is a fair-trade
souvenir and crafts store which stocks a diverse range
of textiles, ceramics, hand-made greetings cards, glassware and jewellery. Most importantly, purchases made
here contribute to good causes: many of the items on
display are made by children in social institutions, people
with disabilities and artisans in remote villages. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PA
59
60
sHoPPInG
Sports equipment
Music shops
0.4.3. (O.Ch.Z.) B-2, ul.Tri Ushi 3, tel. 981 72 27,
Makalu sport B-1, ul. Vladayska 23, tel. 0878 988

727, www.makalusport.com. Specialized climbing and
mountaineering equipment. Information about trekking,
hikking, climbing and caving in Bulgaria. QOpen 10:00
- 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Stenata B-2, ul. Bratya Miladinovi 5, tel. 980 54 91,
stenata@omega.bg, www.stenata.com. Everything
you might need for hiking, camping, climbing and caving.
Friendly advice from experts. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A
www.Z043.org. Everything about this hell-hole screams

of bloody metal! From the millions of skulls on the shelves
and the thundering sounds, ravaging the stereo, to the
metalheads, round the corner, who will always test your
metal-ness, before even talking to you. CD-s, t-shirts,
accessoires and rock memorabiliaand that Motorhead
shirt youve always wanted. They just have it all! QOpen
11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
SMF Music Hunter C-2, ul. William Gladstone 30A,
tel. 981 60 76, www.smf-bg.com. The most extensive
collection of CD-s, DVD-s and T-shirts with unreadable
band logos. Almost every important album in rock, punk
metal and enough bloody and satanic CD-sleeves to give
you nightmares for the rest of your life QOpen 10:30 20:00, Sat 10.30 - 19.30. Closed Sun. A
Vision A-3, bul. Maria Luiza 55, tel. 983 55 09,
visiomessige@abv.bg. One of the oldest shops for
music t-shirt and accessories in Sofia. They offer spraycans for graffiti and can dress you up as a street maniac
from head to toe. There is also a tattoo parlour in the
basement. QOpen 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 11.30 - 17:00.
Closed Sun.
Tera Bulgara C-5, ul. San Stefano 22A, tel. 846 88 06.
Craft items, textiles and rugs. QOpen 09:30 - 18:30, Sat
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Umbopo C-3, ul. Khan Krum 20, tel. 0887 201 673. A
tiny, little shop for hand-made jewellery, candles, little artistic

gifts, ceramic beads and many beautiful small trinkets. This
is a place where you can take your time and use your creativity and imagination for creating your own jewellery. QOpen
10:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
Hypermarkets
HIT H-8, Mladost-2 ul. Aleksander Malinov 75, tel. 817
51 00, hit-info@hit-hypermarket.bg, www.hit-hypermarket.bg. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.
Kaufland H-8, zh-k Mladost -3 ul. Philip Avramov
3, tel. 0800 12 220, customer.services@kaufland.
bg, w w w.kaufland.bg. Q Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sun
08:00 - 21:00.
Metro cash & carry G-8, bul. Tsarigradsko shose
7, tel. 0700 100 71, info@Metro.bg, www.metro.bg.
QOpen 07:00 - 21:00.
Jewellery
Avi Center B-2, ul. Vitosha 18B, tel. 930 70 70, office@
avi-center.com, www.avi-center.com. High quality gold,
diamonds and platinum jewellery. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30,
Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
El Grado C-3, bul. Vassil Levski 61, tel. 986 24 80. Gold,
silver, precious stones, orders of unique examples, repairs.
Photography
Kodak Express C-3, pl. Slaveykov 11, tel. 987 00 74.
Develops your holiday snaps in a jiffy as well as selling film
of all kinds and a range of professional kit. QOpen 09:00 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A
Markets
Graf Ignatiev C-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev. More bananas
than you can shake a cucumber at, and vice-versa.
QOpen 09:30 - 19:00.

Rimska stena D-4, ul. Hristo Smirnenski. One of
the liveliest food markets, worth visiting for the piece of

preserved Byzantine fortress wall which sticks up amidst
the stalls. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.
Sitnyakovo bul. Shipchenski prohod. Fresh produce
market popular with the expat community - you might well
find the kind of exotic fruit and vegetables that doesnt
turn up elsewhere. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.
Zhenski pazar A-2, ul. Stefan Stambolov. Vast
open-air bazaar selling flowers, foodstuffs, cheap
clothes, broomsticks, spare parts to machines you
never even knew existed, and kitchen sinks. QOpen
08:00 - 19:00.
sHoPPInG
Shopping centres
City Center Sofia E-2, bul. Arsenalski 2, tel. 865
72 85, pr@ccs-mall.com, www.ccs-mall.com. Glossy

consumerist temple comprising 3 storeys of shops (including Bulgarias first Marks & Spencer), a cinema, and
a floor of food options including sushi bar and a brace of
Italian restaurants. The ground-floor newspaper kiosk is
a good place to pick up English-language press. QOpen
10:00 - 22:00. PTALK
Mall of Sofia B-1, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 101.
Sofias newest shopping mecca is an enormous retail,
business and entertainment centre boasting over 130
shops (many selling international brand-names), fancy
cafs and restaurants, and a 12-screen multiplex cinema.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PTAK
TZUM B-3, bul. Maria Luiza 2, tel. 926 07 00, tzum@
tzum.bg, www.tzum.bg. Three floors of expensive
fashion, accessories and cosmetics, and a first-floor
caf where young ladies like to sit and pout after a tiring day looking at clothes. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun
11:00 - 20:00. PK
to linger over a cup of tea or coffee, but do be warned that the

longer you spend hanging around here, the more things you
will be tempted into buying. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.
Cheers B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 14, tel. 986 18 56,
office@cheersgroup.bg, www.cheers.bg. Finest tobacco
and cigars, pipes and smoking accessories, brand alcohol,
selected wines. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
A
Loza C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 19, tel. 980 28 00. Great
selection of fine Bulgarian wines and brandies. QOpen
08:30 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 22:30. PA
Supermarkets
Billa G-7, ul. Sof iyski Geroy 4, tel. 951 52 66,
billa@bg.billa.co.at, w w w.connect.bg/directory/
BGSF000111/. Aisle upon aisle of international food and
drink. Pile your trolley high. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun
09:00 - 21:00.
Piccadilly E-2, City Center Sofia, bul. Arsenalski 2, tel.
819 45 67, fax 819 45 55, www.piccadilly.bg. Pretty
much everything you need for your weekly shop is in here
somewhere. Big deli counter, freshly baked bread, and aisle
upon aisle of alcohol. Another at B-1, Mall of Sofia. QOpen
09:00 - 22:00.
Tobacco & Drinks

100 grama sladki C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 18A, tel. 980
40 62, www.100gr-sladki.com. The name of this treasure

trove of a shop literally means one hundred grams of sweets,
although youll probably be drawn into buying more once you
catch sight of the riches behind the counter. Custards, tarts,
cakes and hand-made chocolates will appeal to the sweettoothed, while mini-quiches are perfect for a more traditional
lunch-snack. Theres a small sit-down area for those who want
Magazin za vreme i chay B-2, ul. Knyaz BorisI 65,

tel. 0887 968 748, vremechai@gmail.com. Shelf upon
shelf of speciality teas from all over the world, including
seductive long-leaved green varieties from China, and plenty
of traditional Bulgarian herbal infusions. Theres also a small
selection of oriental spices including ginger, cardamom, and
a few things we couldnt quite identify -judging by the aroma
it would be 100% safe to throw them in a curry. QOpen
10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.
Poeschl Tabak B-2, ul. Solunska 23, tel. 981 18 49. Fine
tobacco for pipes and cigarettes, cigars, snuff, accessories
for smokers. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.
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62
HealtH & lIfestyle

24hr pharmacies
Catering
Adonis G-7, jk Hipodruma, bl. 121, ul. Urvich
75, ent.D, fl.1, opposite Arena cinema Liulin, tel.

9201301/0888 800 548, lora2002@gmail.com,
www.loracatering.com. Professional catering services
for all occasions.
Luxe B-3, ul. Triaditsa 5, tel. 980 02 03/0888 241 164,
office@luxebg.com, www.luxebg.com. Catering and event
planning. Q A
MDM Catering F-7, ul. Strandzha 132, tel. 833 40
83/0898 50 43 07, info@mdmcatering.com, www.
mdmcatering.com. Business and corporate catering.
1, tel. 0800 16626/859 21 82, fax 958 14 70,

hipodruma@adonis.bg, www.adonis.bg. Also in jk
Lozenets, ul. Zlatovrah 4, Elemag, tel. 9620569, 0885
832 680. Q A
Ana D-1, bul. Vitosha 95, tel. 953 41 57.
Aronia 2001 G-7, bul. Pencho Slaveykov 6, tel.
953 13 08.
Saldzhi C-2, bul. Vitosha 35, tel. 980 58 96. Q
A
Babysitting and Homecare

Detegledachki , tel. 0888 816 309, info@detegle-
dachki.com, www.detegledachki.com. Recruitment

agency for babysitters and homecare services.
Mery Poppins D-4, ul. Milin Kamak 40, tel. 865 48
10/0878 621 936, info@marypoppins-bg.com, www.
marypoppins-bg.com. Recruitment agency for babysitters
and homecare services. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Tina V (G-8) ul. Nikolay Gogol 1, tel. 846 54 85/0889
322 529, info@tina-v.com, www.tina-v.com. Babysitting
and homecare recruitment agency. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
United Phili C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 28, tel. 0878 808
568, united_ph@abv.bg. Babysitting and homecare recruitment agency. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Beauty salons
Charmant C-1, ul. Sveti Ivan Rilski 15, et. 2, tel. 952
34 30, charmant@bhc.orbitel.bg, www.charmant.bg.
Thalasso treatments, massage, manicure and more. QOpen
09:00 - 20:00. A
Picasso B-3, ul. Aleksandur Batenberg 10, tel. 989
66 99/989 06 68, picasso2@abv.bg, www.cosmelas.
com. Studio for laser cosmetics. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. W
Visages B-2, bul. Vitosha 50, tel. 988 42 51. Cosmetic
services, massage, manicure, tatoos and more. QOpen
09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Yves Rocher Beauty Center C-2, bul. Vitosha 63, tel.
986 31 64/987 99 10. Various cosmetic services with
quality products. QOpen 09:30 - 20:00, Mon, Sat 10:00 19:00. Closed Sun. A
Bulgarian language courses

Atlas-S B-3, ul. Hristo Belchev 1, et. 3, tel. 987 20
08/980 43 92, fax 980 55 79, atlas_lc@abv.bg, www.
atlas-s.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sun.
Sofia University Department of Language Learning G-8, ul. Kosta Lulchev 27, tel. 871 00 69/872 00
69, fax 870 53 28, office@deo.uni-sofia.bg, www.deo.

uni-sofia.bg. The only certified centre for testing of Bulgarian
as foreign language. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00.
York Learning Centre D-3, ul. Rakovska 187 A, et.
3, tel. 986 21 45/0898 457 433, info@york-bg.com,
www.york-bg.com. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun
08:00 - 14:00.
Lora Catering B-5, bul. Todor Aleksandrov, bl.
Cleaning services
Borivan Ltd. F-7, jk Obelia, bl. 118, vh. V, tel. 931 16
20/0886 520 055, fax 934 66 90, service@borivan.com,

www.borivan.com. Machine cleaning and washing, grinding
and polishing. Contact telephone for weekends and holidays
0885 405 610. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Vasilka Cleaning Agency G-7, ul.Kamen Andreev
24, fl.4 ,office 404, tel. 952 34 34/0889 245 446, fax
952 05 56, vasilkaltd@abv.bg, www.vasilka-bg.com.
Complete cleaning services. Abonament cleaning services.
Dentists
Dental Clinic B-3, ul. Ivan Vazov 5, tel. 987 84 24/987
84 23. QOpen 07:30 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Juniordent C-4, bul. Patriarh Evtimiy 1, tel. 988 31
75/935 59 322, fax 988 19 92, judent@mbox.bol.bg,

www.juniordent.com. Q Open 07:30 - 19:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. A
Medstom Clinic B-4, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 26A, tel.
981 00 00/988 44 04, fax 988 31 80, medstom@abv.
bg, www.medstom.com. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Closed
Sun. A
Nedyalkov Dental Clinics D-3, ul. Lyuben Karavelov
90, tel. 963 15 05, info@klinikinedialkov.com, http://
klinikinedialkov.com. The have 3 more clinics on ul. Rakovska 165, tel. 988 54 44, on ul. Rakovska 81, tel. 983
36 66 and on bul. Dondukov 105, tel. 944 82 62. QOpen
08:30 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 16:00.
T. Kanchev A-5, bul. Gen. Danail Nikolaev 10, tel./fax
843 56 58. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Dry cleaners
Mac Clean B-3, ul. Gurko 10, tel. 986 55 51/986 49
74. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13.00. Closed
Sun.
Roever C-3, bul. Vasil Levski 37, tel. 980 61 07. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Hairdressers
Kalo Hair Studio B-2, bul. Vitosha 12, tel. 987 01 54,
kalohair@mail.bg, www.kalohairstudio.com. Also on ul.

Damian Gruev 15 and bul. Vasil Levski 82 A. QOpen 09:30
- 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
Stylist Kapanov C-2, bul. Hristo Botev 14, tel. 951 63
88, fax 953 30 12, botev@kapanov.net, www.kapanov.
net. One of the best in the business. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,
Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
HealtH & lIfestyle

Hospitals
Isul A-5, ul. Byalo More 8, tel. 943 21 70/943 21 32.
Pirogov (Multiprofile Hospital of Active Treatment
and Emergency Medicine) G-7, bul. Totleben 21, tel.
915 44 11. Emergency tel. 150. Sofias main hospital for

emergencies. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Tokuda G-7, bul. N. Vaptsarov 51B, tel. 403 40 00,
fax 403 40 10, info@tokudabolnica.bg, www.tokudabolnica.bg.
International schools
American College of Sofia H-8, Floyd Black Lane,
Mladost-2, tel. 434 10 08/434 10 09, fax 974 31 29,

acs@acs.bg, www.acs.bg. Private secondary school
founded in 1860 - the oldest American educational institution outside the USA.
American English Academy G-9, Druzhba 2, 150
School - Deliyska Vodenitsa, fl. 4, tel. 973 12 22/973 88
81, fax 973 55 64, aeaoffice@gmail.com, www.aea-bg.
com. Classes from kindergarten to grade 12.
Anglo-American School of Sofia G-7, ul. Kozyak 16,
tel. 923 88 10, fax 923 88 59, aasdirector@infotel.
bg, www.aas-sofia.org. School founded in 1967 by the
American and British embassies.
Deutsche Schule Erich Kaestner F-6, Lyulin-VI, tel.
824 48 59/826 72 80, fax 925 08 38, info@eks-bg.eu,
www.kestnerschool.com. German language school - kindergarten, primary and secondary school.
First English Language School B-5, bul. Knyaz
Dondukov 60, tel. 944 21 81/944 83 89, aeg1@abv.
bg, www.fels-sofia.org. Public secondary school founded
in 1958.
The French school E-3, bul. Sveti Naum 36, tel. 963
21 19/963 29 64, fax 866 58 70, proviseur@vhugo.
org, www.vhugo.org.
Kindergartens
International children`s creativity center H-7,
Dragalevtsi, ul. Vaklinets 36, tel. 967 31 12/0888 940

763, iccf@geobiz.net, www.iccf-bg.com. Accepts children
between the ages of 2-6.
QOpen 08:30 - 17:30.
Uwekind G-6, Boyana, ul. 612 4, tel. 857 51 00/857
20 00, info@uwekind.com, www.uwekind.com. A privately run kindergarten and school with a half day German
programme.
Laboratories
Biocheck A-3, ul. Ekzarh Yosif 31, tel. 911 83/983
33 93, www.biocheck-bg.com. QOpen 07:30 - 19:30.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Bodimed B-2, ul. Pozitano 24, tel. 986 38 64/986

66 76, www.bodimed.com. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat
09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Libraries
British Council B-5, ul. Krakra 7, tel. 942 43 44/0887
424 344, fax 942 42 22, bc.sofia@britishcouncil.bg,
www.britishcouncil.org/bulgaria.htm. Up-to-date newspapers, magazines, and lots of lovely books. QOpen 10:00 19:30, Wed 10:00 - 13:30, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
French Cultural Institute B-3, ul. Dyakon Ignatiy 2,
tel. 937 79 22, fax 980 94 98, ccc-cours@institutfrance.
bg, www.institutfrance.bg. Bookstore and library. QOpen
11:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Tattoo & Piercing

Getting a tattoo can be a life-changing experience,
or just another cartoon on you to fight boredom with.
In Sofia, tattooing is much cheaper and as good as
anywhere in the world. Bring your bravery, positive
attitude and ideas with you and leave everything to the
tattoo artist. Tattoo people are an underground breed
of their own and sometimes have strange ethics and
code of life, so treat them with respect. Ignore their
prison-style looks and remember that they are professionals in the ancient rituals of desecrating the flesh.
They can also make enough piercings on your body, to
trigger any airport metal detector!
Artstudio Nuance- tattoo, piercing and airbrush A-1, ul. Opalchenska 78, tel. 831 58 85/0889
398 940, www.nuanceartstudio.com. Placed in the

calmer corners of the centre, this is not the typical hellhole of a studio, but an arty, colourful place. Still an occasional demon can always come out of the needle!
Kravay Tattoo & Body piercing Studio C-3, bul.
Patriarh Evtimiy 43, tel. 0885 757 819. Just across
the ugliest monument in Sofia, there is a little window and
a bell button. Ring on it and get some true blue ink!
Monica Tattoo & Body piercing Studio C-3, ul.
Graf Ignatiev 34B, tel. 0897 310 677/0888 123
424. A spacious studio where extreme people hang out
and get their inks done. Drink some beers, play some
darts and table soccer and get some beauty under your
skin! Just dont say the name of the soccer team C.S.K.A.
and everything will be O.K.
Vision Tattoo & Bodypiercing Studio A-3, bul.
Maria Luiza 55, tel. 0889 813 120. In the dark alley
hides a basement, where the magic of color happens!
Goethe-Institut Sofia B-4, ul. Budapeshta 1, tel. 939
01 00, fax 939 01 99, info@sofia.goethe.org, www.

goethe.de/ins/bg/sof/bgindex.htm. German language
library. QOpen , Mon, Fri 10:00 - 14:00, Tue, Wed, Thu
14:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Instituto Cervantes Sofia B-3, ul. Saborna 1, tel.
810 45 00, fax 980 26 28, censof@cervantes.es, sofia.
cervantes.es. Spanish cultural centre. QOpen , Mon 10:00
- 13:00, 16:00-19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Fri, Sun.
Opticians
Cari Optics C-3, pl. Slaveykov 7, tel. 989 21 26/989
21 71, fax 981 84 14, caristyle@mail.orbital.bg, www.

carioptics.bg. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A
Eurooptic D-2, bul. Vitosha 92, tel. 953 11 32, eurooptic2@mbox.contact.bg, www.eurooptik.com. Also shops
on ul. Sveta Sofia 8, tel. 987 24 92, ul. Tsar Ivan Shishman 19,
tel. 987 28 49, bul. Stamboliyski, Mall of Sofia, tel. 987 79 79
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A
Fox B-4, bul. Dondukov 26 A, tel. 986 40 32, office@
foxoptics.com, www.foxoptics.com. Other shops on bul.
Hristo Botev 73, tel. 981 98 93, ul. Serdika 18, tel. 980 02 55,
jk Liulyn, bl. 443, tel. 8258673, jk Mladost 4, Business Park
Sofia, Building 10, tel. 489 94 88. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,
Grand Optics C-4, ul. Graf Ignatiev 48, tel. 987 23 64,
office@joyoptics.com, www.grandoptics-bg.com. Shops
also on bul. Vitosha 74 and 23, bul. Maria Luisa 41, bul. Kosta
Lulchev 52, Sky City, bul. Alexander Malinov 77, Princess Outlet Center, Sofia Airport, Terminal 2. QOpen 09:30 - 19:30,
Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A
63
64
health & Lifestyle

Opticlasa C-2, bul. Vitosha 40, tel. 988 34 86, opticlasa@trading.bg, www.opticlasa.com. ul. Alabin 31, bul.
Stamboliyski, Mall of Sofia, ul. Solunska 14 and 37, Mladost
4, Business Park Sofia, building 8 QOpen 10:30 - 19:30,
Sat 10:30 - 18:30, Sun 11:30 - 17:30. A
Party organisers
Biliana Fireworks F-8, jk Hadji Dimitar, ul. Vasil Petleshkov 1, tel. 986 33 00/0888 906 179, bil_fire@abv.bg,
www.bil-firework.com. Pyrotechnic performances.
Magicland C-1, ul. Knyaz Boris I 7, tel. 952 34 94/0886
660 100, fax 952 33 95, land@magicland.bg, www.

magicland.bg. Carnival costumes and accessories. Organizing of parties and events. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
14:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Party House B-2, ul. Tsar Samuil 30, tel. 981 62 50,
office@partyhouse-bg.com, www.partyhouse-bg.com.
Corporate events, private parties, childrens shows and
costume rental.
Party Service G-7, ul. Bogatitsa 36, tel. 964 15
00/964 15 01, fax 963 56 25, info@partyservice-bg.
com, www.partyservice-bg.com. Event planners and
caterers. Q A
Red Devil F-7, bul. Lomsko Shose 228 A, tel. 0700
14 700/0898 68 68 01, office@reddevilcatering.com,
www.reddevilcatering.com. Complete organisation of all
kinds of parties.
Sofia Classic Catering G-9, bul. Tsarigradsko shose
139, tel. 875 21 36/0886 499 277, fax 828 24 99,
office@sofiacatering.com, www.sofiacatering.com.
Catering for your office and family party.
Private medical clinics

Gurgulyat Clinic C-3, ul. Rakovski 148 B, tel. 912
88/981 03 31, fax 981 02 91, gurgulyat@yahoo.com,

www.gurgulyat.com. bul. Gen. Totleben 21, tel. 952 05 00,
ul. 20 April 30, tel. 954 98 85. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Medical Center Dr. I.S.Greenberg H-8, Mladost-3
(in the building of XXV Polyclinic), tel. 974 48 16, fax
971 29 95, dccgreenberg@tea.bg. Q Open 00:00 24:00.
St. Pantaleymon H-8, zh-k Mladost 3 bul. Aleksandur
Malinov 63, tel. 974 10 00, fax 974 44 50, info@sphospital.com, www.sphospital.com. Specializing Surgery
Hospital. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A
Thorax Clinics B-1, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 57,
tel. 912 85, mail@thorax.bg, www.thorax.bg. Thorax 2
is on ul. Fridtjof Nansen 21, tel. 980 78 86. QOpen 00:00
- 24:00. A
Vita Medical Center G-8, ul. Dragovitsa 9, tel. 960 49
50/943 43 98, fax 944 13 43, vita@vita.bg, www.vita.
bg. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A
Religious services
Anglican church B-5, ul. Oborishte 5, the Catholic
Chapel, tel. 872 21 30, anglicanbg@gmail.com, http://

w w w.churchof theresurrection.eu/sofia.htm. Hol y
Communion is celebrated every third Sunday of the month
at 9:30 am.
Bahai Centre G-7, ul. Boyanski Vazhod 8 A, tel. 955 58
33/0878 986 997, nsa@bahai.bg, www.bahai.bg.
Banya Bashi Mosque (Dzhamia Banya Bashi) B-3,
bul. Maria Luiza, tel. 981 60 01, www.genmufti.org.
Prayer five times a day.
Baptist Church G-8, Interpred, bul. Dragan Tsankov 36,
tel. 971 17 50, raychs@juno.com, www.ibcsworld.org.
Sunday teaching sessions at 10 a.m. and worship services

at 11 a.m. in English.
Hram Uspenie Bogorodichno ul. Lyulin planina 5, tel.
953 04 06/952 29 59, proykov@gmail.com, www.kaebg.org. Daily liturgy at 18:30, Sun 8:00 and 10:00.
Chabad Bulgaria (Jewish Community Center)
B-4, ul. Stara Planina 38, tel. 944 33 80, fax 944 35
38, office@chabad-bulgaria.org, www.chabad-bulgaria.
org. Prayer every day at 8 am, except for Friday when the
service is held in the Synagogue. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Sofia Synagogue A-3, ul. Ekzarh Yosif 16, tel. 983 12
73, fax 983 50 85, sofiasynagogue@mail.orbitel.bg,
www.sofiasynagogue.com. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30, Sat
09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
St Josephs Catholic Church C-2, ul. Knyaz Boris
146, tel. 811 46 56. Daily liturgy at 08:00 and 17:30 in
Bulgarian, Sunday and holidays at 09:00 in Polish, 10:30 in
Bulgarian, 12:00 in Latin and 18:00 in Bulgarian. QOpen
08:00 - 18:30.
The Bulgarian Lutheran Church D-3, zh-k Lozenets,
ul. Kapitan Andreev 4, fl. 2, tel. 963 42 44/963 42 48.
Sunday service in Bulgarian at 11.45am. QOpen 09:00 17:00. Closed Sat.
Removals
Allied Pickfords Bulgaria H-8, Business Park Sofia,
Building 12, tel. 807 66 88, fax 807 66 89, movers@allied.bg, www.allied.bg. Household removals and company
relocation. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Corstjens Worldwide Movers Group G-7, ul. Kostenski Vodopad 59, tel. 958 97 21, fax 858 48 29, info.
sofia@corstjens.com, www.corstjens.com. Smooth and
professional relocations. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Orbit Ltd. G-9, ul. Prodan Tarakdzhiev 16, tel. 970 63
00/970 64 00, fax 970 63 33, orbit@orbit.bg, www.
orbit.bg. International forwarding and removals. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:30 - 15:30. Closed Sun.
Security
Group 4 Securitas H-8, Business Park Sofia, Building 3, tel. 976 09 17/91 944, fax 975 18 40, office@
bg.g4s.com, www.g4s.bg. Provides full range of products
and services related to safety and security. QOpen 08:30
Ipon-1 Ltd. D-3, ul. Rakovski 209, tel. 981 45 48,
ipon_1@abv.bg. Personal prote ction, en cashmen t
services, sites security. QOpen 08:30 - 17:30. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Security Group Alpha G-9, bul. Iskursko shose 12, et.
6, tel. 979 18 86/979 06 55, fax 979 18 87, alpha_bg@
abv.bg, www.alphabg.com. Physical and technical security.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:30.
Vets
Animo C-4, zh-k Mladost 1A, bl. 508, tel. 987 40
74/0889 780 180, www.animobg.com. QOpen 00:00
- 24:00.
Avitsena Veterinary Clinic F-7, ul. Naicho Tsanov,
block 114, tel. 822 01 49/0887 477 873, klinik@avicenavet.com, www.avicenavet.com. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00.
Dr. Antov Veterinary Clinic E-3, ul. Plachkovitsa 4,
tel. 868 95 94/0898 831 283, vetclinic@abv.bg, www.
vetbg.com. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun.
sPorts
Bowling
Galaxy Bowling Club D-2, bul. Bulgaria 1, tel. 916 65
90, fax 916 65 64, galaxybowling@gmail.com, www.

galaxybowling.eu. Centrally-located club with 6 lanes. Also
offers billiards and video games. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. From
3-5 leva per game. A
Mega Xtreme Bowling Center H-8, Studentski Grad,
ul. Akademik Boris Stefanov 12, tel. 969 26 00/969 26
01, bowling_mega@yahoo.com, www.mega-xtreme.com.
Popular 18-alley bowling centre, darts, table football, billiards
and air hokey, packed with students from the nearby dorms of
Studentski Grad, 6km southeast of the centre. QOpen 10:00 04:00. From 3,50 - 5,50 leva per person per game. PA
Snooker and Billiard club Century E-2, ul. Chervena stena 4, tel. 0899 988 376, snooker@trivex.org,
www.snooker.trivex.org. The club is not very easy to find,
although it is situated very close to Kempinski -Zografski
hotel. There are signs to follow, so it shouldnt be so hard to
get there. Going downstairs, you will enter this elegant, not so
big, but pleasant place. There are 4 professional billiard and
snooker tables, a small separated corner with a sofa, where
you can have a drink or two, check your email, or just have a
rest. Nice music, plasma TV, an English-speaking staff will take
care of your pleasant stay. Bulgarian alcohol is not available,
but the prices are quite low for this type of club. The place
is also used for organized billiard and snooker tournaments.
There are only 3 more billiard and snooker clubs in Sofia,
but thats the only one, placed in the central part of the city.
QOpen 11;00 - 01:00. PAW
Carting
Carting Speedway Krasna Polyana G-7, bul. Vardar
3A, tel. 920 14 47, kartingsport@abv.bg, www.kartingbg.com. Kilometre-long circuit. During winter season they
work from 10:00 до 18:00. 2Lv per lap, every
11th is for free. The track can be hired also per hour or per
day. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Dance clubs
Alfredo Dance Studio C-2, National Stadium Vasil Levski, zala MDSport, tel. 0899 222 088, info@alfredostyle.
com, www.alfredostyle.com. Salsa, Merengue, Bachata, Hip
Hop QOpen , Thu 21:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 21:00.
Alima C-5, ul. Sheynovo 7, Fitness Central Park, Dance
Zone, www.orientaldances.net. Oriental dances - beginner, intermediate and advanced levels. QOpen , Mon, Tue,
Fri 18:00 - 19:00.
Lira Group Dance Company bul. Yanko Sakazov 17,
tel. 0888 678 963/0888 503 213, info@liragroup.eu,
www.liragroup.eu. Bulgarian folk dances, Cuban salsa, Merengue, Bachata, Cha-cha-cha and Balroom dances. QOpen
closed, Mon, Thu 19:00 - 21:30, Sat 17:00 - 18:15. Closed
Tue, Wed, Fri, Sun.
Pambos Dancing Centre B-3, pl. Garibaldi 2, tel. 0888
354 771/0888 981 769, pambos@pambos.info, www.
pambos.info. Salsa, flamenco and Greek dances. QOpen
18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Raul Torres Dance School C-3, ul. Hristo Belchev
3, tel. 0898 971 083, raultorres@abv.bg, www.torresdance.com. Salsa, rumba, guaguanco, mambo, cha-cha,
guaracha, samba and merenge, hip-hop and modern ballet.
QOpen 18:00 - 22:00, Sun 17:00 - 22:00.
Tanguerin ul. Krakra 15, Czech Club Ballroom, tel.
0888 373 940/0898 817 906, fax 958 71 55, info@
tanguerin.com, www.tanguerin.com. Tango argentino.
QOpen closed, Mon, Wed, Fri 19:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue,
Thu, Sat, Sun.
Vai, Dudule! G-8, ul. Alfred Nobel 5, 138 school, tel.
0886 885 468/0889502 744. Bulgarian Folk Dances. Vai,

Dudule! is an exclamaition used in a prayer, part of a bulgarian
folklore custom, performed to the saints to send rain in times
of very dry weather. Fri, Sat and Sun private lessons. QOpen
, Mon, Wed 19:20 - 21:30, Thu 18:30 - 20:30.
Extreme sports
Air Sport Flight School B-1, ul. 20-i april 20, et.1,
tel. 951 56 43/0888 123 123, fax 953 15 47, info@

airsport.bg, www.airsport.bg. Training for ultra-light, sel
(single engine land) aircraft, multi engine land (mel) aircraft,
private pilots and aerobatic flights. Certified flight instructors.
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.
Club Adrenalin G-8, bul. Sitnyakovo 41A, bl. 1, fl. 1,
tel. 944 44 02/0896 693 700, adrenalin@bungy.bg,
www.clubadrenalin.com. Bungee jumping, hot-air balloon
flights, sky diving, paragliding, rafting, off road, safari and
air advertising.
Cross The Line B-2, ul. Tsar Samuil 38, tel. 987
90 89/0887 402 525, crosstheline@abv.bg, www.
crossthelinebg.com. Alpinism, mountain climbing, caving,
rafting, kayaking, canyoning, team building, paragliding and
two-seater plane flights.
Parasof F-7, Svoboda, bl. 36, vhod G, apt. 55, tel. 898
94 42/0888 259 716, www.skydive-bg.com. Parachute
jumps, skydiving and paragliding. You have to be above 16.
Sky Mania H-8, Studentski grad, bl. 15, 514, tel. 868
20 66/0888 903 536, delta_sky@hotmail.com, www.
sky-jet.com. Paragliding and motor pargliding courses,
flying equipment.
Vertical World G-6, ul. 711-ta 3, Knyazhevo, tel.
0888 484 700, vertical_world_bg@yahoo.com, www.
verticalworldbg.com. Bungee jumping, alpinism, caving,
trekking, biking and adventure tourism. Training and equipment provided.
The Sofia
65
66
sPorts
Fitness & Spa
Ice-rinks
Slavia G-8, ul. Koloman 1, tel. 856 49 75/856 91
97, fax 855 21 37, www.pfcslavia.com. Works from
September till March. Admission 4Lv. Skate rental 3Lv.
QOpen , Wed, Fri 18:30 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:30 - 13:00,
17:00-18:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu.
Winter Sport Palace (Zimen dvorets na sporta)
Atama G-8, ul. Cherkovna 86, tel. 843 53 08. Wellequipped gym and a wide range of beauty treatments.
QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. A

Athletic G-8, ul. Oborishte 22, tel. 489 08 71/489
03 46, reklama@athletic-bg.com, www.athletic-bg.

com. Group classes in ashtanga, step, pilates, and aerobics. Also offers sauna, solarium, massage and beauty
treatments. Also on ul. Nikolai Kopernik 21, tel. 971 13
01, zh-k Iztok, ul. Atanas Dalchev 6, tel. 970 01 31, bul.
Slivnitsa 228, tel. 822 03 61, bul. Yanko Sakazov 78, tel.
489 03 46. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 13:00, 17:00-22:00. KD
Boyana Diplomatic Club & Spa H-6, ul. Vasil
Chekalarov 51, Boyana, tel. 957 10 65/857 02 71,
boyana@dclub.bg, www.dclub.bg. Indoor swimming
pool, tennis courts, fitness hall, sauna, jaccuzi, massage.
QOpen 07:30 - 22:00. TLK
Fitness Central Park C-5, ul. Sheinovo 7, tel. 942
31 10, info@fitnesscentralpark.com, www.fitnesscentralpark.com. Boasting a fully equipped gym and
a variety of machines to suit all body fat percentages,
it also calls itself a beauty club offering manicure and
a cosmetics room, a solarium, sauna, steam bath and
massage. There is a dance floor which offers a varied
program, some of the more popular being MTV dance
and street Jazz. Most of the young, healthy staff speak
Enlish and genuinely seem to enjoy their job. There is
also a small cafe for recuperating in afterwards. QOpen
07:30 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. PA
Maxi Club & Park Hotel Olymp H-8, bul. Simeonovsko Shose 110, tel. 892 00 33/892 00 00, olymp@
maxisofia.com, www.maxisofia.com. Hotel complex
southeast of the centre whose gym, sauna and solarium
are open to the general public. Also has swimming pool
on site. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. KDC
Relax Center Blyasak G-8, ul.Kalimantsi 19, tel.
973 36 68/0885 892 000, 2brelaxbliasak@gmail.
com, www.relax.saloni-bliasak.com. A pleasant
place which offers luxurious aromatherapy treatments
for face and body, shiatsu massage, hot stone therapy,
SPA procedures, solarium. Friendly staff at Relax Center
take expert care of your look from top to toe. Try also the
Turkish bath and Finnish sauna. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00,
Sun 11:00 - 17:00. A
Sparta Fitness + Spinning E-1, bul. Arsenalski
4, tel. 963 13 37/865 6471, office@spartabg.com,
www.spartabg.com. Popular gym offering a wide range
of fat-unfriendly activities: pumping iron, riding stationary bikes, sweating in saunas. Also offers aerobics,
aquaaerobics, pilates, tae-bo, yoga, spinning, karate,
tennis and football. The sport centre also has 50m
Olympic swimming pool. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 20:00. KDC
The red gym G-7, zh-k Strelbishte ul. Haidushka
gora 111, tel. 818 78 11/0888 731 231, thegym@
abv.bg, www.theredgym.bg. Fitness, aerobics, sauna,
steam bath, Jaccuzzi, massage, solarium, cosmetic
studio, spa therapies, manicure, pedicure and shooting
gallery. Q FD
H-8, Studentski grad, tel. 868 73 34. Out amongst the

high-rise dorms of Sofias student city, 7km southeast
of the centre. Admission fee: 6Lv, plus a three more
leva for skate rental. Works from September to March.
QOpen , Wed 18:30 - 20:00, Sat 17:00 - 20:30, Sun
17:00 - :20:30.
Golf
Golf Club Air Sofia B-4, Ihtiman, ul. 6-i septemvri 1(office),
tel. 981 09 25/0888 678 144, golf@golf-bg.com, www.
golf-bg.com. Eighteen-hole course with a Par 71 rating. A round
here costs 50Lv per person. Equipment rental available on site.
They might even pick you up from your hotel in Sofia. In addition:
fully staffed riding stables with 10 horses, football and basketball
playgrounds, fitness club, hotel and restaurant. Q AFK
St.Sofia Golf Club & SPA C-5, bul. Tsarigradsko Shose
9 (office), tel. 943 45 05/0889 783 888, fax 943 45 04,
office@stsofiagolf.com, www.stsofiagolf.com. In Ravno
Pole village - 15 minutes drive southeast of the city centre.
Eighteen hole course with English-speaking management.
QOpen 08:00 - 19:00.
Horse-riding
Equestrian Base Egida E-5, bul. Dragan Tsankov 1,
tel. 865 71 56/0898 643 848, www.egida-sofia.bg.
Located near the centre, on the fringes of Borisovata gradina
park, this is a handy place to take lessons if youre a beginner. 20min-15Lv, 30min-20Lv, 60min-35Lv, pony ride 2Lv per
round. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Equestrian Base Han Asparuh G-6, ul. Haidushko
izvorche 28, tel. 955 90 72/930 07 02, nsb_ead@abv.
bg, www.bulgariasportbase.com. 5km southwest of the
centre near the Slavia football stadium. Lots of nice gee gees.
You have to go on the spot to enquire about riding or tuition.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Nova Zvezda G-6, Knyazhevo area, villa area Kiliyte,
tel. 944 76 52/0895 770 777, info@ezdabg.com, www.
ezdabg.com. Horse-riding: 40 min-15Lv, 1 h-20Lv , 1 Day
-70Lv. Equestrian tourism, bow and arrow, visiting of hunting
forestry, 1, 2 and 3 day tours, organizing of parties and team
buildings with horses and exotic animals.
Indoor swimming pools

Spartak E-1, bul. Arsenalski 4, tel. 865 64 71/963 13
37, office@spartabg.com, www.spartabg.com. Popular
50m Olympic swimming pool next door to the Harmony Sofia
hotel. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.
Sport Palace C-4, bul. Vasil Levski 75, tel. 930 05 02.
Most central of the pools, 25m, and correspondingly popular.
Entry ticket 5Lv, ticket to pool and sauna 7Lv , 8 visits ticket
36Lv, 12 visits 54Lv. QOpen 06:30 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 16:00. Closed Sun. DC
sPorts
Open-air skating rinks
Shooting ranges
Gradska Gradina park B-3, Accross from the Na-
tel. 976 60 25/0885 920 557, service@vipgunscenter.

com, www.vipgunscenter.com. Several ranges, professional instructors, modern guns. Sports club, shops and gun
workshop. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. K
tional Art Gallery. On the weekend and holidays works

24h. Admission: 3-4Lv. Skate rental: 3-5Lv. For pupils its
free from 08:00-09:20. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.
Winter Park C-5, pl. Orlov Most (Orlov bridge),
Ariana Lake. Temporary outdoor ice-rink, snowboard
and ski Big Air Jump, rails, fun box, big air bag, quarter
pipe. Skates for hire. 3Lv per hour and 7Lv for the day.
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. L
Paintball
Paintball BG bul. Akademik Ivan E. Geshov 50, tel.
952 37 05/0888 511 456, info@paintball.bg, www.

paintball.bg. Paintball adventures in the Dragalevtsi area
just south of the city. 15Lv per game with 100 balls, each
additional 20 balls are 3Lv.
Paintball Bulgaria H-8, zh-k Mladost 4, ul. 406, opposite bl. 469, tel. 484 01 43/0898 747 474, alex@
paintballbulgaria.com, www.paintballbulgaria.com.
Paintball games on and around Mount Vitosha just south
of Sofia. 20 Lv per game with 100 balls, 30Lv with 200
balls, 33Lv with 250 balls, 51Lv with 500 balls. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
Paintball Mania G-8, ul. 20-i april 20, et.1, tel. 0888
123 321/489 794, info@paintballmania.bg, www.
paintballmania.bg. Air Ball - paintball field with inflated
bunkers; Battle Field - with real military machinery, training range with falling targets. Bookings for groups of min.
10 people - at least 2 days in advance. One ball - 0,10Lv,
equippment - 5Lv. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon,
Tue.
VIP Shooting Complex G-8, bul. G.M.Dimitrov 51,
Stadium
Natsionalen Stadion Vasil Levski C-5, Borisova
gradina, tel. 930 06 66/930 07 51.
Stadion Bulgarska Armia D-5, Borisova Gradina, tel.
963 34 77.
Stadion Georgi Asparuhov - Gerena F-8, kv.Suhata
reka, tel. 945 30 46.
Stadion Lokomotiv F-7, kv.Nadezhda, tel. 936 03 56.
Stadion Slavia G-6, kv. Ovcha Kupel, tel. 980 05
08/980 49 87.
Tennis & Squash

Academic Tennis Club ul. Nezabravka 3-5, Borisovata
gradina, tel. 870 01 36, info@utcakademic.com, www.

utcakademic.com. Outdoor and indoor courts with professional trainers, sauna, massage and fitness in the park right
in the heart of Sofia. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 08:30
- 14:00. JFKD
Maleevi Tennis Club G-7/8, bul. Nikola Vapzarov 57,
tel. 962 22 88/0878 622 282, fax 962 86 65, info@maleevaclub.com, www.maleevaclub.com. 09:00-19:00Tennis,
squash, tennis school, fitness, massage, Thai massage, solarium, hairdresser, cosmetics, restaurant, bar, events hosting
and shop. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.
Maxi Club H-7, bul. Simeonovsko shose 110, tel. 962 23
04, dilieva@maxisofia.com, www.maxisofia.com.
67
68
Business directory
Accountants & Consultants
Bulgarian officials
AFA B-5, ul. Oborishte 38, tel. 943 37 00, fax 943 37
Council of Ministers B-3, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 1, tel.

940 27 70, fax 980 20 56, gis@government.bg, www.
government.bg.
Ministry of Foreign Affairs G-8, ul. Aleksandar
Zhendov 2, tel. 948 29 99, fax 870 30 41, iprd@mfa.
government.bg, www.mfa.government.bg.
National Assembly B-4, pl. Narodno Sabranie 2, tel.
939 39, fax 981 31 31, infocenter@parliament.bg, www.
parliament.bg.
Presidency B-3, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 2, tel. 923 93 33,
press@president.bg, www.president.bg..
07, office@afa.bg, www.afa.bg.

Andi Maks Ltd. B-2, ul. Denkoglu 12-14, tel. 980 24
91, fax 986 29 62, office@andi-maks.com.
Deloitte B-1, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliiski 103, tel. 802
33 00, fax 802 33 50, www.deloitte.com.
Ernst & Young H-8, Business Park Sofia, Building 10,
tel. 817 71 00, fax 817 71 11, www.ey.com.
Eurobalance Ltd. G-8, ul. Karnegi 10, tel. 980 77 47,
eurobalance@abv.bg, www.eurobalance.net.
Four Consult G-7, ul. Racho Dimchev 8, tel. 981 30
82/0897 886 925, daniela@fourconsult.com, www.
fourconsult.com.
Grant Thornton C-3, ul.Uliam Gladston 54, tel. 980
55 00, fax 980 48 24, office@gtbulgaria.com, www.
gtbulgaria.com.
KPMG D-3, ul. Frityof Nansen 37, tel. 969 73 00, fax
980 53 40, office@kpmg.bg, www.kpmg.bg.
Price Waterhouse Coopers B-3, bul. Maria Luiza 9-11,
tel. 935 52 00, fax 935 52 66, www.pwc.com.
Advertising agencies
Huts JWT G-8, ul. Charlz Darvin 14B, tel. 971 71
95/971 71 96, fax 971 71 78, info@hutsjwt.com, www.

hutsjwt.com.
Leo Burnett G-8, ul. Maragidik 6, tel. 943 44 51, fax
943 41 65, office@leoburnett.bg. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
McCann Erickson G-8, bul. Shipchenski prohod 63,
tel. 971 96 41, fax 971 95 04, office@mccann.bg, www.
universalmccann.com.
Ogilvy & Mather C-1, ul. Dospat 60-62, tel. 952 34 00,
fax 953 34 19, info@ogilvy.bg, www.ogilvy.bg.
Banks
BNP Paribas Bulgaria B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 2,
tel. 921 86 40, fax 921 86 95, bulgaria_bnpparibas@
bnpparibas.com, www.bulgaria.bnpparibas.com.
Bulbank - Uni Credit Group B-3, pl. Sveta Nedelya 7,
tel. 923 21 11, fax 988 46 36, www.bulbank.bg.
Corporate commercial bank B-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev 10,
tel. 980 93 62, fax 980 89 48, corpbank@corpbank.bg,
www.corpbank.bg.
First Investment Bank ul. Stefan Karadzha 10, tel. 91
001, fax 980 50 33, fib@fibank.bg, www.fibank.bg.
HVB Bank Biochim B-4, ul. Ivan Vazov 1, tel. 926 92
10, fax 926 94 40.
ING Bank D-1, ul. Emil Bersinski 12, tel. 917 64 00, fax
917 65 78, ing.infobg@ingbank.com, www.ing.bg.
OBB (United Bulgarian Bank) B-2, ul. Sveta Sofia
5, tel. 811 28 00, fax 988 08 22, info@ubb.bg, www.
ubb.bg.
Poshtenska banka (Bulgarian Post Bank) B-4, bul.
Tsar Osvoboditel 14, tel. 816 60 00, fax 988 81 10,
contact@postbank.bg, www.postbank.bg.
Pro Credit Bank A-2, bul. Hristo Botev 131, tel. 921
71 00, fax 921 71 10, contact@procreditbank.bg, www.
procreditbank.bg.
Raiffeisen Bank C-5, ul. Nikolay Gogol 18-20, tel. 919
85 101, fax 943 45 28, www.raiffeisen.bg.
SG Expressbank B-1, bul. Aleksandur Stamboliiski 73,
tel. 937 04 76, fax 981 79 17, www.sgexpressbank.bg.
Business connections
American Chamber of Commerce H-8, Business
Park Sofia, Building 2, tel. 974 27 43, fax 974 27 41,

amcham@amcham.bg, www.amcham.bg.
Atlantic Club of Bulgaria C-4, ul. Slavyanska 29, tel.
981 06 99, fax 981 57 82, natoinfo@natoinfo.bg.

British Bulgarian Chamber of Commerce G-8, ul.
Nikolay Haytov 2, entr.5, 1st floor, tel./fax 971 47 56,
info@bbcc.bg, www.bbcc.bg.
Bulgaria Economic Forum C-2, bul. Vitosha 86, tel.
951 52 59, fax 953 29 24, info@biforum.org, www.
biforum.org.
Bulgarian Business Leaders Forum C-4, ul. Slavyanska 42, tel. 986 52 02, fax 986 56 25, office@bblf.bg,
www.bblf.bg.
Bulgarian Dutch Business Club B-2, ul. Sofroniy
Vrachanski 1, tel. 987 99 11, chairman@bg-nl.com,
www.bg-nl.com.
Bulgarian Chamber of Commerce and Industry
A-5, ul. Iskar 9, tel. 987 26 31, fax 987 32 09, bcci@
bcci.bg, www.bcci.bg.
Bulgarian Industrial Assosiation B-2, ul. Alabin 1620, tel. 932 09 11, fax 987 26 04, office@bia-bg.com,
www.bia-bg.com.
Bulgarian International Business Association B-1,
bul. Aleksandur Stamboliiski 55, tel. 981 95 64, fax 981
91 69, office@biba.bg.
Bulgarian Stock Exchange B-2, ul. Tri ushi 10, tel.
937 09 34, fax 937 09 46, bse@bse-sofia.bg, www.
bse-sofia.bg.
European Commission Representation B-3, ul.
Moskovska 9, tel. 933 52 52, fax 933 52 33, delegationbulgaria@ec.europa.eu, www.evropa.bg.
German-Bulgarian Trade and Industrial Chamber
G-8, ul. Fr. J.-Curie 25A, tel. 816 30 10, fax 816 30 19,
ahk-office@ahk-bg.org.
Institute for Market Economics B-5, bul. Patriarh
Evtimii 61, tel. 952 62 66, mail@ime.bg, www.ime.
bg.
International Monetary Fund Representative Office B-3, BNB, pl. Aleksandar Batenberg 1, tel. 981 45
06, fax 981 25 24, jroaf@imf.org.
Invest Bulgaria Agency B-4, ul. Aksakov 31, tel. 985
55 00, fax 980 13 20, iba@investbg.government.bg,

www.investbg.government.bg.
Italian Chamber of Commerce B-5, ul. Oborishte
1B, tel. 846 32 80, fax 846 32 81, info@camcomit.bg,
www.camcomit.bg.
North American Bulgarian Chamber of Commerce
C-1, ul. Petko Karavelov 1A, tel. 951 53 87, fax 951 69
84, bulgaria@nabcc.org, www.nabcc.org.
BUsIness dIreCtory
Sterling Serviced Office Group
Prime Locations. First-Class Environments.
Exceptional Services
Instant, Flexible, Affordable
2a Saborna Street, 1000 Sofia, Bulgaria
Tel: +359 (0) 2 926 4111
sofia@sterlingoffice.com
www.sterlingoffice.com
Kongresstechnik Bulgaria Ltd. E-1, bul. Arsenalski

115, tel. 866 94 40, fax 866 94 57, office@ktbg.bg, www.
ktbg.bg. Full range of conference equipment and services.
Foreign representations
Albania B-5, ul. Krakra 10, tel. 943 38 57, fax 943 30
69, albanian@centrum-grup.com.
Austria B-4, ul. Shipka 4, tel. 932 90 32, fax 981 05
OJB Shalom bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 50, tel. 870

163, www.shalom.bg.
Privatisation Agency C-4, ul. Aksakov 29, tel./fax
980 98 27, press@priv.government.bg., www.priv.

government.bg.
United Nations in Bulgaria C-3, ul. Han Krum 25,
tel. 969 61 00, fax 981 31 84, info@undp.bg, www.

un-bg.bg.
World Bank G-8, Interpred, bul. Dragan Tsankov 36, tel.
969 72 29, fax 971 20 45, itaushanova@worldbank.bg,
www.worldbank.bg.
Business facilities
Business Park Sofia H-8, Mladost 4, tel. 489 90 81,
fax 489 90 80, office@businesspark-sofia.com, www.
businesspark-sofia.com. Office space accommodating over
200 companies, restaurants, cafes, shops, banks.
Inter Expo Center G-8, bul. Tsarigradsko shose 147,
tel. 965 52 20, fax 965 52 30, bul-reklama@bulgarreklama.com, www. bulgarreklama.com. Exhibition
and congress complex with 8 separate halls, restaurants
and cafes.
Interpred World Trade Centre G-8, bul. Dragan
Tsankov 36, tel. 969 50 52, fax 971 20 06, bsc@
wtcsofia.bg, www.wtcsofia.bg. Rentable office space,
conference facilities.
Sterling Serviced Office Group B-3, ul. Suborna 2A,
tel. 926 41 11, fax 926 41 00, sofia@sterlingoffice.
com, www.sterlingoffice.com. The only serviced office
centre in Sofia.
Event organisers
Company for International Meetings Ltd. B-3,
ul. Hristo Belchev 18, tel. 987 74 22, fax 980 60 74,
cim@cim-pco.org, www.cim-pco.org. Leading congress
organizer.
Event House G-7, ul. Topli Dol 2A, tel. 958 99 99, fax
958 99 70, office@eventhouse.bg, www.eventhouse.
bg. Conference halls, interpreters, catering.
67, sofia-ob@bmaa.gv.at.
Belgium E-4, pl. Velchova zavera 1, tel. 988 72 90,
fax 963 36 38, sofia@diplobel.be, www.diplomatie.
be/sofia.
Canada B-4, ul. Moskovska 9, tel. 969 97 10, fax 981
60 81, consular@canada-bg.org.
Croatia B-5, ul. Veliko Tarnovo 32, tel. 943 32 25, fax
946 13 55, croemb.sofia@mvp.hr, www.infotel.bg/
croembassy.
Cyprus E-3, ul. Plachkovitsa 1A, tel. 961 77 31, fax 862
94 70, cyprus@mbox.contact.bg.
Czech Republic B-5, bul. Yanko Sakazov 9, tel. 946
11 11, fax 946 18 00, sofia@embassy.mzv.cz, www.
mzv.cz/sofia.
Denmark B-4, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 54, tel. 917 01 00,
fax 980 99 01, sofamb@um.dk, www.ambsofia.um.dk.
Estonia B-3, ul. Bacho Kiro 26-30, tel. 937 99 00, fax
937 99 09, embassy.sofia@mfa.ee.
Finland A-3, ul. Bacho Kiro 26-28, tel. 810 21 10, fax
810 21 20, sanomat.sof@formin.fi.
France B-5, ul. Oborishte 27-29, tel. 965 11 00, fax 965
11 20, presse@ambafrance-bg.org, www.ambafrancebg.org.
Germany G-8, ul. Fr. J.-Curie 25, tel. 918 380, fax 963
16 58, reg1@sofia.diplo.de, www.sofia.diplo.de.
Greece C-5, ul. San Stefano 33, tel. 843 30 85, fax
946 12 49, info@greekembassy-sofia.org, www.info.
greekembassy-sofia.org.
Hungary D-3, ul. 6-i septemvri 57, tel. 963 11 35, fax
963 21 10, huemszof@netbg.com.
China H-8, ul. Aleksandar fon Humbolt 7, tel. 973 38
73, fax 971 10 81, www.chinaembassy.bg.
Ireland A-3, ul. Bacho Kiro 26-30, tel. 985 34 25, fax
983 33 02, info@embassyofireland.bg.
Israel D-2, pl. Bulgaria 1, tel. 951 50 44, fax 952 11 01,
info@sofia.mfa.gov.il.
Italy B-4, ul. Shipka 2, tel. 921 73 00, fax 980 37 17,
ambasciata.sofia@esteri.it, www.ambsofia.esteri.it.
Japan G-8, Lyulyakova gradina 14, tel. 971 27 08, fax
971 10 95, www.bg.emb-japan.go.jp.
Korea H-8, ul. Sofiysko pole 3, tel. 975 33 40, fax 974
55 67, saebyolk@yahoo.com.
Macedonia G-8, ul. Fr. J.-Curie 17, tel. 870 50 98, fax
971 28 32, todmak@bgnet.bg.
Netherlands G-8, ul. Oborishte 15, tel. 816 03 00,
fax 816 03 01, sof@minbuza.nl, www.netherlandsembassy.bg.
Norway B-4, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 54B, tel. 981 11 06,
fax 981 90 10, emb.sofia@mfa.no, www.norvegia.bg.
69
70
BUsIness dIreCtory
Poland C-3, ul. Han Krum 46, tel. 987 26 10, fax 987 29
Office supplies
Portugal B-1, ul. Pozitano 9, tel. 921 68 68, fax 921 68
Multirama C-3, ul. Solunska 2, tel. 400 66 20, office@

multirama.bg, www.multirama.bg. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00,
39, polamba@internet-bg.net, www.polamba-bg.org.
21, embpor@sofia.dgaccp.pt.
Romania G-8, bul. Mihai Eminesku 4, tel. 971 28 58,
fax 971 36 19, ambsofro@vip.bg.
Russia G-8, bul. Dragan Tsankov 28, tel. 963 09 14, fax
963 41 03, info@rusembul.org.
Serbia G-8, ul. Veliko Tarnovo 3, tel. 946 16 33, fax 946
10 59, sofia@emb-serbia.com, www.emb-serbia.com.
Slovak Republic B-5, bul. Yanko Sakazov 9, tel. 942 92
10, fax 942 92 35, embassy@sofia.mfa.sk.
South Africa A-3, ul. Bacho Kiro 26, tel. 981 66 82, fax
981 57 76, saembsof@techno-link.com.
Spain C-5, ul. Sheynovo 27, tel. 948 99 11, embespbg@
mail.mae.es, www.embespbg.com.
Sweden G-8, ul. Alfred Nobel 4, tel. 930 19 60, fax 973
37 95, ambassaden.sofia@foreign.ministry.se, www.
swedenabroad.com/sofia.
Switzerland G-8, ul. Shipka 33, tel. 942 01 00, fax
946 16 22, vertretung@sof.rep.admin.ch, www.eda.
admin.ch/sofia.
Turkey C-4, bul. Vasil Levski 80, tel. 935 55 00, fax 981
93 58, turksofya@spnet.net.
Ukraine G-6, ul. Boryana 29, tel. 818 68 28, fax 955
52 47, puvrb@mbox.contact.bg, http://www.mfa.gov.
ua/bulgaria.
United Kingdom B-3, ul. Moskovska 9, tel. 933 92
22, fax 933 92 19, britembinf@mail.orbitel.bg, www.
british-embassy.bg.
USA G-7, ul. Kozyak 16, tel. 937 51 00, fax 937 53 20,
irc@usembassy.bg, www.usembassy.bg.
Lawyers
Arsov Natchev Ganeva B-5, ul. Shipka 36, tel. 943
40 66, fax 946 33 48, info@anglaw.com, www.anglaw.
com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Dia Consult C-2, ul. Uzundzhovska 16, tel. 981 91
78, fax 980 20 26, diacon@mail.techno-link.com,
www.diaconsult.bg. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Dimitrov, Petrov & Co. C-3, bul. Patriarh Evtimii 36,
tel. 987 70 96, fax 988 73 60, info@dpc.bg, www.dpc.
bg. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Kambourov & Partners C-3, ul. Neofit Rilski 55, tel.
986 99 99, fax 986 99 95, office@kambourov.biz, www.
kambourov.biz. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Stoichev, Valkov & Co. Law firm ul. Damian Gruev
20, fl.4, apt.9, tel. 852 69 99/852 49 99. QOpen 09:30
Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A
Office 1 Superstore G-8, bul. Tsarigradsko shose 139,

tel. 070 010 700, fax 070 010 701, tm@hq.office1,
www.office1.bg. Q A
Office Express H-9, bul. Tsarigratsko shose 135, tel.
0800 1 80 80, offex@offex.bg, www.offex.bg. Office
delivery service. QOpen 08:30 - 18:30, Sat 08:30 - 14:00.
Closed Sun.
Real estate
Address B-5, pl. Bulgaria 1, tel. 810 33 44, address@
address.bg, www.address.bg. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.

Bokar bul. Patriarh Evtimiy 36A, tel. 910 10 10, fax
986 60 63, bokar.imoti@dir.bg, www.bokar-imoti.com.
Colliers International H-8, Business Park Sofia,
Mladost 4, Bulding 7B, tel. 976 99 77/0888 372 091,
ivan.velikov@colliers.com, www.colliers.com. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Discover Bulgaria Properties H-8, Mladost-4, bl.
473, vh.2-3, tel. 881 57 14, fax 881 53 32, properties@
discover-bulgaria.com, properties.discover-bulgaria.
com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Elta Consult B-4, bul. Aleksandar Dondukov 13, tel. 987
76 47/0888 601 846, office@eltaconsult.com. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Grato Investment G-7, bul. Bulgaria 102, Business
Centre Bellissimo, office 2, tel. 428 13 08/0885 665
730, fax 428 13 07, office@gratoinvestment.com,
www.gratoinvestments.com. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Intertime Continental B-4, ul. G. Rakovski 146,
tel. 0888 77 27 61, fax 987 01 13, intertime@911.
bg, www.intertime.bg. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Tvoyat dom (Your Home) C-3, pl. Slaveykov 7, tel.
986 48 22/0888 65 82 81, fax 987 52 88, info@tvoyatdom.com, www.tvoyatdom.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Winslow Developments center Serdika,floor 2, office
204, tel. 920 00 72, fax 920 17 82, info@winslowdevelopments.com, www.winslowdevelopments.com.
Yavlena B-3, ul. Gen. Gurko 76A, tel. 810 50/0887 73
10 06, office@yavlena.com, www.yavlena.com.
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Europes online city guide
Borovets
Being established back in the year 1896, Borovets is the
oldest ski resort in Bulgaria.The name of the place used
to be Cham Koria, which means Pine forest in Turkish.
Since the middle of the 20th century it is called Borovets,
which comes from the Bulgarian word for pine-tree bor.
There are ski paths, hotels, pubs, night bars, ski and
snowboard schools, horse back riding schools, multiple
souvenir and ski equipment shops and quite a lot of ice,
covering the several asphalted streets and suitable for
practicing your balance and falling skills.
The altimeter reads1350 meters in the center square, and
the view spans down the northern slopes of Rila Mountain.
It is easily accessible from Sofia, which is only 70 kilometers
away. Going by car should not be so hard if you follow the
signs on the road and dont get lost in the beautiful views
of the huge Iskar dam the biggest in Bulgaria. Getting by
bus is also enjoyable, once you find Bus Station South,
which is hidden beneath the bridge, next to the Interpred
Trade Center (see map G-8, it is just under the letter I in
Iztokon Boulevard Dragan Tsankov, number 36.
Busses and mini-van shuttle buses arrive on Samokov bus
station every half an hour. The town of Samokov is only 10
kilometers away from Borovets and to get there you will
need to catch another mini-bus or a taxi. The bus trip will
cost you only 8 Lv.
partying with Dance, House and mostly Hip and Hit music.
No chalga CD-s on any of the shelves, but bottles of various
brands and shapes, ready to push out the air of any bar glass.
SKYSPORTS on the big plasma can give a good reason for some
beers to end up empty. QOpen 20.00 - 04.00. P
The Blue. Next to Rila Hotel on the street going uphill,

tel. 0878 105 077. In the small street across the Rila Hotel,
there is a blue magical place, called the Blue. It is actually quite
colourfull, full of all those spiritual and cool little thingies, sold
by hippie-style girls in the souvenir art shops. It is a little kitsch
, but cosy and very pleasant and relaxing for the snow-tired
eye. They serve English cuisine and all types of alcohol, play
nice music and keep the fireplace booming. They will work as
long as you stay there. (20-30 Lv) QOpen 10:30 - 04:00.
IBKW
Hotels
Complex Alpin. tel. 32 203/32 201, office@alpin-hotel.
bg, www.alpin-hotel.bg. Do not take Alpin Complex at face
value. Although three star qualified, it is a neat and comfortable place, across the mammoth Rila hotel and close to the
lifts. It has double, single rooms and one and two storey villas.
Especially nice is the VIP apartment, which is romantic and
luxurious and has a plasma TV set and a bubble bath. The
rooms all have stereos, cable TV and WiFi, as well as bath
tubs. Except for a swimming pool and a gym, they offer most
classic hotel features: mini bars, sauna, conference room,
and a restaurant with room service. The brown and beige
furniture of the rooms and cozy villas is a nice break from
the overly present gleaming white. Q22 rooms (5 doubles
17-40, 2 studios, 1 Vip apartment, 8 villas). The prices are
for person for day. TALGKDW hhh
Forest Star. tel. 32 021, forest_star@abv.bg. It is next to
the lift, literally and also one of the few local tourist facilities,
which try to break the mold. With its entrance area, resembling
a rock cave, this place would be a refuge for younger ones,
bored with the look-alike style of local hotels. It lacks the ever
present pools, Jacuzzis and saunas, but still has a neat bistro, comfortable and tidy rooms and hospitable staff. Q20
rooms (20 doubles 26 - 31). JAILGKSW hh
Guest House Momina Salza. tel. 32 573, www.momi-
Bars, Clubs & Discos

Bar Harps. Next to the Gondola, tel. 0898 462 757.
This place is brand new, built and furnished with love, finesse
and the best of materials. It is fairly big and with a nice bar,
sound system, big plasma TV screen (with SKYSPORTS) and
a WC with the first square seat we have ever seen. They will
never play chalga and are definitely among the most polite
people we met in Borovets. The place offers some classic
English types of beer which will make you remember good
old buddies back there in the neighborhood pub. QOpen
10:00 - 03:00. I
BUZZ Bar. Next to the Rila Hotel, tel. 0889 955 955,
disco.bg/buzzbar. Something is definitely buzzing in Borovets
and it couldnt be anything else then the notorious BUZZ bar.
This is the preferred fun place for all those who love late hour
nasalza.com. It is a beautiful hotel house, 100 meters from

the Gondola. Do not fear the big black dog, he is a wise and
good beast. This place has nothing to do with the stereotypical
hotel, its a nice spacious house with apartments for guests
and common big kitchen and dining room for them to use. There
is also a bar in the basement with a booming fireplace. Guests
can use solarium and sauna in the cold days and have patriotic
style barbecues if the weather allows it. Q6 rooms (5 doubles
13 - 31, 1 apartment 21 - 46). ILBD hhh
Hotel Deniv. tel. 32 253, hotel-deniv@diartbg.com.

Neighboring and connected to Forest Star via a underground
pass, this small hotel is still a little untidy, but will hopefully be
ok for the tourist season. It is perfect for all budget skiers and
travelers and offers accommodation slightly better than in a
mountain hut. It has a huge, folklore-styled mehana. Q14
rooms (13 doubles 13, 1 quad 13). Prices are per person,
no breakfast included. ALGKSW hh
The Borovets
71
72
borovets
Hotel Ela. tel. 32 271, office@hotelela.com, www.
hotelela.com. With its classic wooden sloped outlook,
this hotel reminds us of the happy years of communism.
The restaurant and lobby bar will keep you well fed and in
a drinking mood. For the sporty types theres a gym, table
tennis and billiards room. The sauna and steam bath will
revitalize your body after a good day of skiing, but nothing will do better than a good sleep in the comfy rooms.
They will take you with your dogs and even take care of
any wild kids in their kindergarten. There is a ski school
and even a pharmacy on their premises. Q70 rooms (19
singles 16 - 36, 51 doubles 16 - 36). H6IFLG
BKDW hhh
house 3, tel. 66 827/0877 753 092, info@rilalodge.

com, www.rilalodge.com. This family-run B&B is found in
a small village, 2km from Samokov and 9km from Borovets.
They provide pick up service from Sofia airport, transport to
Borovets and discount rent-a-car service. The three-storey
house offers 3 bedrooms, designed with solid wooden and
wicker furniture, cable TV, shared living room with fireplace
and breakfast room. The bathrooms are with showers. If you
feel like peace and quite, away from the hassle of Borovets,
yet, close to Samokov, this is the right place for you. Q3
rooms (1 double 25 - 50, 1 Twin 25 - 50, 1 Family (quad to
6) 100 - 150). A6IBKW
Hotel Lion . tel. 33 015, fax 33 030, avramov@
Vila Park. On the buss stop, Old Center, tel. 0899 133
hotelslion.bg. Hidden in the forest above the old town,

this hotel is a true gem. Its accommodations are luxurious,
tastefully furnished and spacious, with mini bars and plasma
TV sets and kitchenettes in the studios and apartments. Six
of the rooms and the hotel itself are adapted for disabled
persons. Silence and pine trees surround this serene location and I bet there is no better way to enjoy the falling snow,
than relaxing in the superb pool of the hotel. There are many
more things to see and experience there: the stylish lobby
bar, the mehana, the Turkish bath, pool and tennis tables,
solar and hairdresser studio. Although quite far from the
lifts, the hotel has a shuttle bus, which can take you to the
slopes in minutes. Q161 rooms (5 apartments 90-180,
24 studios 75-175, 62 doubles 60-130, 65 luxury rooms
65-150). HAUIFGBKDC hhhh
Hotel Sokol. tel. 33 434, fax 33 444, hot_sokol@abv.

bg. Separated from the fuss of the main street, this small,
but stylish and comfortable hotel is a perfect alternative
for those, detesting yelling drunks and striving for privacy
and silence. Lying in the winter garden, watching the snow
on the huge pine trees, you can leave all worries to their
polite and friendly staff and enjoy the spa and massage
center and the Finnish Jacuzzi. The rooms have mini bars
and flat TV sets and are tastefully furnished. There is also
a gym and a conference room, in case you are not so lazy.
The premises and rooms are fitted for disabled persons,
but no pets are allowed in the hotel. It has a superb view
to the famous frozen fountain of Borovets. Q42 rooms (40
doubles 23 - 52, 2 apartments 41 - 72). ARUI
FLGKD hhh
Ice Angels Across the Rila, tel. 32 045/32 607,

reservations@iceangelshotel.com, www.iceangelshotel.com. Hotel Ice Angels is the perfect vacation spot in
Borovets, close to the lifts and all the bars and offering
all the comforts needed for enjoying winter sports. The
place is tastefully designed, luxurious, but not shiny and
pretentious. The rooms are comfortable and decorated
with style and most of them offer a splendid view of the
mountain and the ski runways. There is a nice spa center,
a small pool, steam and Turkish bath, massages and
Jacuzzi. And even if you are too lazy to go downstairs, the
rooms have bathtubs, so you can relax in private. Q 44
rooms (14 singles 72, 14 doubles 105, 8 studios
140-150, 4 apartments 200-210). JHARIF
GBKDCW hhhh
Rila Lodge Guest House . Dospey village, ul. 8,
837. Located in the old center of Borovets, next to the local

church and the bus stop. It is a spacious apartment complex
with a huge pool, a gym, Jacuzzi and a steam bath. The apartments and studios are spacious and tastefully furnished to
make you feel home, but you can always drown the blues in
something from the lobby bar, or the mini bar in your quarters.
There is a childrens corner and also a stylish restaurant. Q
86 rooms (26 apartments 40 - 120, 60 Studio 30 - 80).
TJHAUIFLGBKDCW hhhh
Restaurants & Cafes

Bistro Central. tel. 0887 480 787. Being in the centre
and international food is what this place offers and nothing

more. Not a single attempt for fancy decorations, apart from a
stuffed deer head and cheap looking chairs. It has a fireplace,
but this joint is definitely still frozen in socialist times. QOpen
10:00 - 00:00. (15-30 Lv). IGBS
Bistro Elite. Across the Gondola Lift, tel. 32 557. This is
a pleasant place for eating nice, genuine Bulgarian foods and to

drink some homemade wines and rakias. The place is furnished
with wood and is cosy and unpretentious. Combine this with the
snow and the hunger after a day on the slopes and the homely
smell of burning wood and homemade dishes and youll know
what we felt there. QOpen 10:00 - 10: 00. (15-24 Lv).
Bistro Forest Star. tel. 0885 612 039, forest_star@

abv.bg. When we entered the bistro, which also doubles as
an entrance area for the hotel Forest Star, we thought of
good old Fred Flintstone, as it resembles a rock cave. No Dino
steaks, but everything traditional is present and available
for room service and takeaway. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
(14-35Lv). AS
Chinese Restaurant Red Dragon. Next to the Gondola, tel. 32 617. The first and only place to offer genuine
Chinese food, cooked by a real, imported Chinese cook.
Although lacking an original Chinese atmosphere, it has two
fireplaces, cable TV with SKYSPORTS and cool revolving
tables for an easy access to the exotic goodies, served in
big quantities and tasty qualities. They work only within the
skiing season, but do it hard and also deliver food anywhere
in Borovets. QOpen 10:00 - 00:00. (10-25Lv). IS
Pizza Sunny. tel. 0898 462 757. It is where we had the
best pizza ever, made in the classic granny style and taste.
The place itself is cosy, comfortable and with a booming
fireplace. The loads of football scarves hanging from the
ceiling and the pictures of the staff, with loads of short-haired
and tattooed tourists suggest glorious times of boozing
and singing anthems for favourite teams. They offer superb
pizzas, some local and international meals and takeaway
and home deliveries in the area. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
(10-20Lv). JIBS
Borovets
Pizzeria Venezia. tel. 0888 588 677. They use the best
ever advertisement for their food - a pig on a skewer, turning

and spreading an inviting cloud, just in front of Hotel Rila. The
place is mehana-styled and offers a variety of national and
international meals, as well as good service and a manager,
always ready for some discount. A good place to fill up your
stomach at. QOpen 10:00 - 00:00. (8-20Lv). JIB
inyourpocket.com
Restaurant Balkani. tel. 0888 882 234. Definitely the
biggest and lavishly decorated eating place around. A definite

must see location with a lot to offer. Although scandalous
with the combination of some traditional Bulgarian decorations, chandeliers and animal skins with Turkish corners
with divans and hookahs. Combine that with a seven-piece
gypsy band, pounding furious chalga and you got a serious
party place. They have an impressive menu of traditional,
international and sea food and an extensive wine list. What
we liked especially is the huge indoor barbecue, with a skewer
big enough to spike through a bull. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00.
(13-40Lv). IEGBS
Restaurant Bulgarian Dish. tel. 0888 881 515,

hotel-deniv@diartbg.com. It is a big mehana restaurant
and a part of the Deniv Hotel. Although a little big, it still has
a cozy air of a burning fireplace, colourful table mats and
national pride. They serve traditional Bulgarian meals, have DJ
and occasionally a folk music band. QOpen 10:00 - 00:00.
(6-26Lv). IES
Restaurant Eagles Rocks . tel. 0889 379 609.
Quite a big space, which provokes eating and drinking to
excess. Just do not try to fly like an eagle from any rocks
nearby. It offers international food and a variety of booze.
The music is mostly chalga and Serbian chalga, but it goes
well with steaks and beers. QOpen 10:00 - 00:00. (1640Lv). IGBS
Snack bar Joy. Next to the Gondola lift. This is a nice
place for a snack or a lunch. They offer pizzas and mostly international food. The wooden interior and the fireplace, along
with some hot meals will give you relaxation and refreshment
after an exhausting day in the snow. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00.
7 - 15 Lv. AIGBSW
Steak House Katina. tel. 0888 349 179. Nothing wrong,
apart of the misspelled name on the menu. Cosy in the classic,

post-socialistic way. A bit kitsch, but with a booming fireplace
and colorful tablecloths. Next to the mammoth Rila and the
quad lift and offering a big and comprehensive menu with
pictures and prices. The small pizza is really small, so go for
the big ones if you are really hungry. QOpen 10:00 - 00:00.
(8-15Lv). JIBS
Shopping
Opticlasa. Sunsport, Royal Plaza shopping complex,
shop 5, opticlasa@trading.bg, www.opticlasa.com.
Souvenir and ceramics shop Ermini . tel. 0899
133 837. Bulgarian traditional souvenirs, art ceramics and
candles. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Winter sports
Ski & snowboard school Snowmasters. tel. 0888
873 789, www.snowmasters-bg.com. Ski, snowboard,

freeride, telemark, blades, kindergarten. QOpen 08:00 20:00. J
Ski School Resmi. tel. 0889 234 830, kali_40@
abv.bg. Ski rentals, ski trecking, telemark. QOpen 09:00
- 20:00.
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73
74
Index
Street Index
11-ti avgust
A/B-4
13-ti mart
D-3
20-ti april
B/C-1, C-2
6-ti septemvri B-4, C-3/4, D-3
Aksakov
B/C- 3, C-4
Alabin
B-2/3
Aleksandar
Batenberg pl.
B-3
Aleksandar Nevski pl.
B-4
Aleksandar
Stamboliyski bul. B-1/2
Angel Kanchev
B/C-3
Antim I
A-2, B-1/2
Arsenalski bul.
E-2
Atanas Dalchev
G-8
Denkoglu
B-2/3
Dragan Tsankov bul. C/D-4, D-5
Dunav
A/B-4
Dyakon Ignatiy
B-3
Dzheims Baucher
E-3/4
Ekzarh Yosif
Elin Pelin
Evlogi Georgiev
F. Z. Kyuri
Frityof Nansen
A-2/3/4/5
D-4/5
C-4/5, D-3
G-8
C-3, D-2
Garibaldi pl.
B-3
Georgi Benkovski
A/B-4
Gladston
C-2/3
Graf Ignatiev
B-3, C-3/4
Gurko
B/C-3, C-4
Baba Nedelya pl.

D-2
Bacho Kiro
A/B-3
Budapeshta
A-3/4, B-4
Bulgaria bul.
D-1/2
Bulgaria pl.
C-2
Han Asparuh
C-2/3
Han Krum
C-3
Hristo Belchev
B-3, C-2/3
Hristo Botev bul. A-2, B-2, C-2
Hristo Smirnenski D-4, E-4
Cherkovna
Cherni vrah bul.
Iskar
Ivailo
G-8
D-2/3, E-3
Index
4km Party Centre
38
8th Ball
41
Adams restaurant
35
Adonis
40
Alcohol
38
Alexander Palace
21
Alga
29
Amsterdam
37
Anel
18
Angels Club
41
Annette
29
Apartament 52
35
Apartment House Dunav 23
Apartment House Iztok
23
Apartment House Sofia
23
Aris
22
Art Club Museum
34
Arte
21
Art-Hostel
24
Art 'Otel
18
Atlantic
21
Avenue
42
B29 Piano Bar
41
Babbles
38
Bacardi Box
42
Back Stage
41
Backstage Karaoke Bar
41
Barabar
35
Bar na kraya na vselenata 42
Basic
35
Baskerville
35
Be My Guest
24
Best Western Hotel Expo 19
Biblioteka Cool House - Piano
Bar
41
Bilkovata
35
Bistro Zita
27
Bitburger
37
Black Box
38
Blaze
35
Boyansko hanche
31
Brilyantin
38
Brod
22
Buddha Bar
39
Bulgari
21, 25
Bulgaria
34
Butchers
27
By The Way
35
Cabaret
39
Cactus
28
Cappuccino bar & dinner
35
A/B-4, B-3
B-2
Ivan Shishman
Ivan Vazov
B/C-4, C-3
B-3/4, C-4
Oborishte
Orlov most
B-5
C-5
Kaloyan
B-3
Knyaz Boris
C-1/2
Knyaz Dondukov bul. B-3/4/5
Kozloduy
F-7
Kozyak
G-7
Krakra
B/C-5
Krum Popov
D-3/4
Krastyo Sarafov
D-3/4
Karnigradska
B-2
Panayot Volov
A-5, B-5
Parchevich
C-2/3
Patriarh Evtimiy bul.
C-2/3
Pencho
Slaveykov bul. C-1, D-1/2
Pirotska
A-1/2, B-3
Pop Bogomil
A-3/4
Pozitano
B-1/2/3
Praga bul.
C-1
Lavele
B-2
Lege
B-3
Lyuben Karavelov C-3/4, D-3
Rakovski
Madrid bul.
Makedonia pl.
Maria Luiza bul.
Moskovska
G-8
B-2
A-3, B-3
B-4
Naicho Tsanov bul.

Narodno sabranie pl.
Neofit Rilski
Nezavisimost pl.
Nikola Vaptsarov bul.
Captain Cook
31
Cargo
35
Casa Boyana
19
Casa de Cuba
35
Casa Ferrari Bed and
Breakfast
21
Central
19
Central Forum
19
Central Park Hotel
19
Chalet Suisse
32
Checkpoint Charly
28
Chepishev
31
Chervilo
39
Chillout Bar & Dinner
36, 40
Chillout Lounge
36
Classic
29
Club 703
36
Club Liqueur
39
Club Sugar
39
Coffee House
34
Comercial
28
Cookies bar & dinner cafe 28
Costa Coffee
34
Crystal Palace Boutique
Hotel
19
Dedeman Sofia Princess
19
Diter
21
Divaka
25
Don Domat
30
Egur, Egur
25
Elate Plaza
21, 28
Escape
39
Etno
25
Exit Club
40
Fix Mix
34
Flannagans
37
Gioia
29
Grand Hotel Sofia
18
Greenville Hotel & Apartment
Houses
19
Hadzhidraganovite kashti 25
Halbite
25
Happy Bar & Grill
26
Harmony
23
Hilton
18
Holiday Inn Sofia
18
Hostel Mostel
24
Hostel Sofia
24
Internet Hostel
24
Irish Harp
37
Jim Beam Club
42
Jimmy's
34
F-7
B-4
C-2/3
B-3
G-7/8
A-4, B-4
San Stefano
C-5
Serdika
A-3, B-3
Sheinovo
C-5
Shipka
B-5
Simeonovsko shose G-8, H-8
Sitnyakovo bul.
G-8
Slaveykov pl.
C-3
Slavyanska
B-3/4, C-4
Sofiiski geroi
G-7
Sofroniy Vrachanski A-2, B-2
Solunska
B-2, C-3
Stara planina
B-4, A-5
J. J. Murphy's
Kapri
Kempinski Hotel Zografski
KFC
Kohinoor
Kolikovski Hotel
Kumbare
Kushtata s chasovnika
Latinka
Lavazza Club
Lebed
Legends
Les Fleurs Boutique Hotel
L'Etranger
Life House
Light
Lion
London Minute
Lozenetz
Magdanoz (Parsley)
Magnolia
Manastirska magernitsa
Maskata
Maxi Park Hotel & Spa
McCarthy's
McDonald's Rock'n'Roll
Mediterrani
Meg Lozenetz
Moderato
Mon Ami
Moskva
Motto
NAI-klub
Niky
Onda Coffee Break
Opera
Orient 33
Orisha bar & dinner
Otvud aleyata zad shkafa
Palms Merkur Casino
Park Hotel Vitosha
Planeta
Pod lipite
Pop Bogomil
PR
Pri Latsi
Pri Miro
Pri Yafata
Pulse Club
Radisson SAS Grand Hotel
Red Bed and Breakfast
Renaissance
38
21
18
30
27
22
26
28
22
34
31
22
19
26
40
20
22
34
22
26
27
26
42
20
36
30
36
22
28
30
30
36
41
23
34
36
42
36
28
38
20
41
26
23
40
26
31
26
40
18
23
22
Stefan Kardzha
Saborna
Sv. Naum bul.
Sveta Nedelya pl.
B-3/4
B-3
E-3/4
B-3
Todor Aleksandrov bul. A-1, B-1/2

Totleben bul.
C-1
Tri ushi
B-2
Triaditsa
B-3
Tsar Asen
B-2, C-2
Tsar Osvoboditel bul. B-4, C-5
Tsar Samuil
B-2, C-2
Tsar Simeon
A-1/2/3/4
Tsarigradsko shose G-8, H-9
Tulovo
C-5
Tundzha
C-1, D-2
Vasil Levski bul. A-4, B-5, C-3/4
Veliko Tarnovo
G-8
Veslets
A/B-3
Vitosha bul. B/C/D-2, D/E-1
Vladayska
B1
Vladimir Vazov bul.
G-8
Vazrazhdane pl.
B-1/2
Yanko Sakazov bul.
Yuri Venelin
B-5
C-4
Residence Oborishte
20
Retro club Gramophone
40
RotasaR
23
Ruski klub
31
Sakura
29
Salsa plus
40
Scotty's Boutique Hotel
22
Seasons
28
Sheraton Sofia Hotel Balkan 18
Shipka
23
SkyWay Hotel
20
Social Jazz Club
41
Sofia Guesthouse
24
Sofia Plaza
20
Starbucks caf
34
Stroezha
42
Sushi Bar
29
Sveta Sofia
20
Swingin' Hall
41
Taboo Club
41
Taj Mahal
27
Tambuktu
31
Tazka
29
Tea House
36
The Black Lodge
40
The Blue Box
40
The Bookies
34
The Club
41
The Net
42
The Rooms
24
Toba&Co
36
Toucan Bluzz & Rock
42
Triada
20
Trikrakoto pile
28
Trops Kushta
30
Troyantsite
28
Tsarsko Selo
20
Tsentralni hali
30
Tunka Chervena Linya (Thin Red
Line)
36
Ugo
30
Uno Enoteca
28
Upstairs
37
Vagabond
31
Variety
24
Vega Sofia Hotel
21
Victoria
30
Vishnite
29
Vodenitzata
31
Vratata (The Door)
29
Yalta
40
Yesterday Karaoke Bar
41
Streets & Maps
75
76
Streets & Maps
Streets & Maps
77
78
Streets & Maps
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Sofia Practical Guide

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Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Down the slopes of

Headbang till springtime

Message from the Mayor

Essential reading for those not sure where

How the past has shaped the present

Let your Mum know how you are

Culture & Events

Making sense of transport

Bulgarias oldest winter resort

Maps & Index

Sofia In Your Pocket

Sofia In Your Pocket

Europe In Your Pocket

Odesa In Your Pocket, a mini-guide to the jewel

Editor-in-chief Steven MacAulay

Sales & Circulation

BOOK ON: +359 2 981 46 26,

The archetypal national tipple is rakiya, which usually comes

Citizens of the EU, Australia, Canada, New Zealand and the

pl. Sveta Nedelya 1, tel. 933 58 45, fax 989 69

Sofia In Your Pocket

The Cyrillic Alphabet

Important phone numbers

January - March 2009

Sofia In Your Pocket

17th century The Vatican establishes the Bishopric of Sofia

January - March 2009

garibaldicafe.net, www.garibaldicafe.net. Eighteen

Free Wi-Fi zones W

USA & Others

Bulgarian main city codes

International country codes

The above codes should be prefixed with 00 if dialing

Bulgarian resort codes

The above codes should be prefixed with 00 if dialing

Sofia In Your Pocket

tel. 49 13 330, customer.service@intrafonica.com,

T Post H-8, Mladost 4, Business Park Sofia, tel. 489

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Pre-paid mobile service

and vouchers at a kiosk near you or from a store from the

Petrol mobile. Take your starter pack and vouchers at

January - March 2009

CUltUre & events

The Bulgarian symbol

gallery-paris.com, www.gallery-paris.com. Charming little

Sofia In Your Pocket

Tsarevets - Kings On The Hill

The hill of Tsarevets is a famous landmark in Veliko Tarnovo

photo Regional Historical Museum V.Tarnovo

CUltUre & events

99 99, www.kinoarena.com. Biggest of the multiplexes,

Music, opera and ballet

January - March 2009

CUltUre & events

30, fax 865 70 53, drumev@ndk.bg, www.ndk.bg.

rata@slovo.bg. Comedies both classical and modern.

Beyond the Canal (Malak gradski teatar Zad

Bulgarian Army Theatre (Teatar Bulgarska

art.bg, www.art.bg/tba. High quality classical and contemporary drama.

Ivan Vazov National Theatre (Naroden teatar)

B-3, ul. Dyakon Ignatiy 5, tel. 811 92 19, fax 987 70