__ STANDARD WiSaee end Lésies ed elon nave ‘those letved by ‘the present fashi ised shoul cere ml Be amiss | ee Serve 5.2 gulde for Fatterss for “guntors. (eres CY siren eit, tevere Tage of neck to a aratale te spniai ea sie seas 13 61 ZA FROAT WAISTLINE esa) fe sise sens to sae sat "aay Ressureeents | (Ci ysier crrconrererte FT post cincuneenence (oy cuaist cincumrenence ibe CEI ABM CIRGONFERENCE ELBOW. Ci RCLUFERENCE, fied tad ee S38 Tei) so. Inelade [at center bask (oY choice pe far} waist To wr 2 WS TO-FLOGR STATURE THETGSD Waist 16 Clap _ HO 50 Thee The MEASUREMENTS. For TEEN SIZE BODY MEASUROWENT Chaat, See inside back cover.(PATTERN DRAFTING AND GRADING ) REVISED 1948 EDITION GATHROBE ORAFT «. BLOUSE WITH PEPLUK BLOUSE (Tuck-in) WITH YOKE BOLERO JACKET BRA DRAFTING BRASSTERE DRAFT. CARDIGAN JACKET ORAFT COVEINATION (Grassiere and Panties) CAPE DRAFTING CIRCULAR SKIRT y.00002) CONT GRAFTING = BOK COAT DRAFT. CHESTERFIELD DAA (2 DRAFT OF COAY FOUNDATION” PRINCESS. (Reefer) DRAFT wit DetP NOTCH COLLAR. WIDE RAGLAN SCEEVE WITH Shwe COLLAR COLLAR_ORAFTI NG ~ FLAT FITTING COLLAR MAdDUISH SHIRT RAIST COLL NOTCH COLLAR DRAFT «= ROLL FITTING COLLAR VEST AND! COLLAR TW ow": ‘COWL NECK RAFTING (CULOTTES DRAFT DRESS ORAETING ~ EVENTS COW Oi FULL LENGHT DRESS FOUNGATI ON” FUNDAMENTAL ORESS DESIGNS. HIGHER NECKLINE DeS|eNS PRINCESS. DRESS DRAFT ETON JACKET +. .-. FITTED BODICE ORAFTING. QODICE FOUNDATION (Regular Ste! x x0 "aR Laapening the steave, the back edge pecones about 1-174" fonger than front edge. Oram V-shaped dart at lta about S*” long and 17a wide No seass are allowed.DRAFT OF ONE PIECE SHAPED SLEEVE 3 (Special Measirement Method ) I The i lustrat ions above chow how to take the ‘hrontng atm Sbnstrononee® J. Untorarm Longth = trem arahole to wrist. Qa 2. Ara Circumference -n Tittle below aranot 3: Eldon Eirbustarencct tt twrarenaermhale 4 Graracn Cont ht £2 roa Shauider BS" ABE. 5: wrist Circumference a loose measurement. Hom To DRAFT THE SLEEVE FOUNDATION, SIZES 12 TO 20 The sleeve, draft provices for a 2°.miniaun ease allowance around the arn Sat muscle.For example: if arn measirenont is Ii* for size IGenaxe slosve pattern 13" wide, or 6-1/2" fron 0 toe ~siten drafting the sleeve, line Arb should be directly in conter of draft. : SE eee : [a to 8] 17a) 7-172] 7-374] ~ 1a | Te-17al Equals aderaee LemTR> Ato cl 3/4 | 3/4 |" 3/4 | 3/4 | 3/4 [Mark point C, on line AWD. Deo ef | Ural Bi/8F Sarg] 7 Jeauale 17P of srw tasers glue ir eaees Equals. 172 of ino A. Equals 1/2 of Elbow Wessure. | Sauare acront st point B=] | | aetinite length, for wrist tine te K(pe-174 6-5/8 | 2S |S-STA|SSATA rants Gera testa aoe GoD] | [etigetalemoe| os leeusevifaasocen pues rare] | ito Get for tp of Siovve a Tine 13. GUIDE LINES FoR SLEEVE oA? $98 - Euats 172 of fine Kel | D to R= Counts 1/2 of OeCe t I wee euials U4 oF [ie KM. | u to.S — equals 1/2 of WE, less 2. || N to P- Equals 1/4 of tine KM. | ts 7 eae. 72 OM 2 | | I A to F[ a-s/al_g-syal 8-77e] 9 Stow 5 [8-1/4] 1/2] 6-373) K to. = Equals 1/2 of K-D. Oraw tho guide tines fron 0 to Q to R for tront of sleeves for back of sleeve, fron P to § to T. SLEEVE CAP For, gon of any dram a curved line fron S to N to 0: for bottoa of cap, feom Oto A 40°S a5 shown by dotted {ness _ THI. SHPING THE SLEEVE eee pes Perna. eee ee Geet wi tone eb sae vey fet tet Be ces ie sis wl ; Ps re eee Q'so'a toifs "tnen"Opeh ooper and ford Sabin Se Lins CBs ang trace from feTee WAND wx Reneat process tor tracing back of sleeve as shown by dotted lines; then ‘\Gonwers the extra length at elbow (about I=1/4"yby making a: V-shaped dort ‘about 3 jong for size 16 (with 1/8" grade for each size). To complete sleeve pattern, allow seans. | ern ee The feature of this sieeve 19 that it is slightly more Shaped than the sleeve with the single eitow dart. + Forantte 2) elton, darts), aad I to back edge, of sleeve by slashing along the “elbéw “line, fren back to’ tront and Spreading Tat elbow. Bolder; Then craft the other 2 darts,one adove,and the other : | se gee ail on ae sn oe Li) Ei ekt aer , |ORESS FOUNDATION WITH EXTENDED SHoULOER HOM TO A0JUST DRESS FOUNDATION FOR BROADER SHOULDER ano SLIGHTLY DEEPER ARMHOLE 1 Illustration T snows arahole af dress at normal posi~ ton on shoulder" of form. The dotted tine Tndi cates a, plligntly, broader” shoulder. ‘outline, “this aeing a7sty1a Feature’ in’oracts cally att tyoss af partongaeel™? ? 587 A garment having the armhole extendiny veyond the norea! position on the shoulder, reaui res. padding, The: Droste the. shoulder, the greater the need for the padding, Diagram t shows dress foundation adjusted for the vroacer Shoulder, and. slightly deeper” armhole az inei cated gy Gotiea lines. The width across front and back at Suetfiey Should De'naintained es shown in the dragran® To adjust pattern, trace front and beck; then draft. shout - FRONT BACK ders about" l/2* Dioader and amnhole. 1/4) deeper, Extens sige seams cliphtly to'maintarn the width acfoss front and back at oustlines u a Miustration If shows dress with broader shoulder cut according to, the “ediusted pattern (pag shouldbe in Serted for fitting). A” garsent having’ slightly. broader shoulders’ alan has ‘are wth across back, snd. thereiose Gives greater freecan for actions For shoulder dart 1n front, siash froe center of shoulder. ~-~t0 preast noint;then close’ yo Front dart, forming st raigat centar front dine as shows 1h Glagtaw iy ur WHustration 111 shows sieeve made to confam with: the oroader shouider and slightly deeper arshole, 8 Slesve has extra ease allowance in cao to allow shoulder pad to extend 1/2" ar a/4* beyond arshelee Dragron TI shoas cap of sleave foundation adjusted far the” 74" " deener“arphole, For addi tional ease ins] esve (otai ling 2-1/2*°eaze), draw slash lines a5 iter 7), then stash’ and” spfead-3s shown in di spear fi, aIhis wilt “raise the cap about 1/2" nigher, and oder she ‘sleeve about 1/8" at arm (bicep! Ww Divide each side of sleeve cap into 2 caval parts, and \ ingivote “with” circles. This ll give the goo ttas fei \eiSe Ins taeve cap botwaer ef reles, for, eaters, ave a, getvetemn of sorauray usa the ofiginal” ‘sleeve foundation, because of tne Gt Fiat ty S @asfng in the extra altowance for etneat” HOW TO WAKE A SHOULCER PAO FOR THE ORESS tadu Cut a dianond shaped piece 7°x 7* in silk or rayon: then -{nsert cotton batting and thin it out towards the potnt” wen In edges and sl pati ten ny Tack pad to shoulder and arshole seas, Lllustration at right shows position of pad starting 2* fron eckiine snd vextanding i/2* or 5/4 beyond srahcte..” as indicated’ by datted finesDRESS SHOULDER PAD (2 Styles) 8 av spwustins parremn mA, FOR SHOULDER PAD a a AY JtoK-“Gra/a" for “size 1(wth W768" grade for each HO TO DRAFT PAD FOR THE SET-IN-SLEEVE Finally draft potton of paa ag fol tow size, tol - 3-3/8". This equals half of J tok. lake shoulder ged settern in 3 etetlons; ao shoutd-be about I-1/4*thiek st center outer end,vhen | J “nianeds Ute u = Stor’ ste 16; with 1/0 grace tor each eles. J 10M = Gonnect Pau H 10 = Connect! then draw curved lines as shown In Draft, top section of pad ae follows: ‘togran’ 1. t Tor size Te (with 1/8" grade for each size). pr 4, This ecuats halt of 4 fog. To complete the pattern, allow seans (abovt 1/4") to the isa" for'size Te,” with 170 grade for each 2 | eages"as indicated: then make corresponding notches and sisee, | fark sections Ty 2 ane 2 Spmect! then draw curved tines as shown in w Stagran’ a1. HOW TO ADJUST PATTERN FOR sHOULOER PAD Ralse shoulder “in. front and back about 1/4" at outer to “nothing at center of ehoulder. Wake shoul der ‘wider; make armhole 1/4" deeper: make underarm sean 174" wider’ at top"to nothing at sotton: toh RUS Adjust sleeve pattern as follows. Raise cap about 1/2 B tol - T-1/4s, this represents the thickest part of |) thon widen cleeve U/2" vat vars to nothing at botton pad. Then draw curved lines ac shoen in diapras i. || Deepen"cap at each side about 1/4 Bo eR Boro ti ge TBka th: 1/08 grade for each sizg 8 6 Siar fat equals nai! or £°t'rs ' SHOULDER wn EDGE m SHOULDER 0 Ww EDGE w HOW TO RAKE THE PAD facings hen cut 4 nore ‘ayers, exch 1/2" snatter along ‘i the shoulder edges. Arrange in fosition as illustrated. few section 3 to sections 1 and 2, taking up 1/4* seems. ¥ meee Sawada Slip cotton batting between edges of pad,and shape, thin- Gut crinoline interfacing sane as section 3,trinming off | ning cotton to nothing at shoulder edges: jean allowance at outer edge,baste {9 wrong’ sie of sec~ we ion 3. Turn right side out as shown in dlagran V; Stitch pac about 1/2" in fron raw edges, then overcast. HII and 1 ar layer of cotton batting sane as crinoline inter- |} Showing finished pad. Kimono Raglan Dropped Sleeve Sieve Shoulder PPB FOR FOUNDED SHOULDER PAD UII and 1¥ fee Fold oval section. through center; inserting layer of This vad is especially suitable for the dress with kimono cotton battings “Whip raw Seges together eer time '#Y steeve, raglan sieeve or dropped: shoulder ‘sleeve dest gn, For the rounded pag, add an oval shaved piece to the Lap oval section to dress pad about 3/4 in fron outer Brequiar dress ped se fl love: edge of ad at" center, to nothing at each ends hip to andar ae easing In fulnesae section, 5-1/2"X 7", a6 indicated, " on the’ bia: Showing finishes pas. DPratt an oval sh ‘then cut in ateSTYLE 9 Breast Point STYLE | ~ With Shoulder Dart I~ Using the dross front foundation. to waist Hine only.mark position for dart fron cen ter of shoulder "{o Breast point; then mark Sections ‘and 8. Slash on dart tine; then close up front dart to form chaul der darts = Draw V-shaped dart, from shoulder sean to about 2° above breast porate STYLE 2 - With Vest Using the shoulder dart foundation, draw Hine: fron shoulder dart to center Tront, 6 above waistline. Mark sections A and’: ~ Gut out shoulder dart; then siagh to center Front, separating. the vost sections Wane @ 2" leith pleat along the waist dart linese No seams are allowed, STYLE 4 ~ With Double Shoulder Tucks Mark position for tucks on dress foundation ge shown by dotted lines, Mark sections ky Brand C ~ Slash along the tuck lines, and spread. to form equal’ size tucks, making. a straight center front Tine, and élosing uo the Front Gate Wake a V-neck, 5* below high neck line. = Wark the tuck’ Lines as illustrated, SIVLE 4 ~ With Side Dart Fitting Mark position for side dart from side sean, 2-1/2" Dolow armhole, to broast points, then fark sections A'and . Slash on side dart line; then close up front Dart to fore the side dart, "algo sakinye a straight center front line, Draw V-shaped dart, fron side sear to about 2'"from breast point. : STYLE 5 - With Pleated Side Section Using the side dart foundation, mark _posi- lon’ for the two pleats; then fark sections PV oe Gut out the side'and yaist darts to separate the front and side. Sectfons: ‘then slash along the pleat Tines end spread for the side pleats, Indicate the pleats with notches. No seams are allowed.DRESS FRONT FOUNDATION (Dartless Front, Pin Tucks at Shoulder, Neck Darts, ete.) 7 Breast Point ur © Breast Point STM 3 Ease STYLE | - Dartless Front iHlustration shore front without darts. Pattern is so cut, that the darte are eliminated, The, dartlase front fountation way be used. for styles aade’in‘soft'and thin aaterialsy ant "to Tit the less mature {igure only. I= Using the dress front foundation to walst~ Tine only, draw lines. from breast paint to heck and araole a6 shawn” by dotted T ines. Wark Sections A 8and Cs 1 ~ Slash on, dotted lines and close up front dart, aking the spread at neck 1/4" leaving the Fenalider of the spread at arsholer TIT ~ Indicate the spaces at neck and arahote with qotches, and with dotted lines trom amhole to breaet point. woaiaer in Tweke a Pin tucks aro used auinly in sheecnateriats, such hevosorpetter chitin” sheer crepes, ete: “and theteeks ean be mada on right oF wrong side of aiterlats Tra'llsing the, dartlese front foundation, draw be siege tuck Tine aa ie pteon necks Alena’ shoulder lire, _ ‘dowg to" breast oink. Bea cenaining’tueh Tings 2/4" apart 11 = Gut" out arshale dacts then slash on tuck Finoo®and®Spnead (iat Sbouiser” Pr, YB ain tues, fete, Will redice. “part ot the Telnaes arahote TIT = Make fongth of tucks as shown by dotted, tines, making the fret tice #2°Tongrand 17a Ieee Tor etch succeeding’ fuck. Regutar Neck! Ine 1 Trace gartiese front foundation; thon raise Tech, eR Genter rronts and” ‘loner “meek ESE shoul dere 11 = Draw a curvad stash ling fron center front BETH ghar necks fo" shouldaret “below necks ines ark Seéttons’ Rand 8. 11K = Slash along ctted line between A and D from center tent tS shout apes than fale Sectfon 15" thatthe upper, ting will Be at right Sagle f0°the' center’ tront Tino. This, will provide the allovance for the ape. ‘ag 1° bon across tho top as chown by the dotted. linear” STYLE 4 = Nock Darts Trace, the dartless front foundation; | then dram lings for the darts as shown by" ‘dotted Hines. “llick sections A. to. Gut gut the armdole dart: then elash alon the S'cart*iinen, andspfega sections 8, and 3,172" at néeky for 1/4" darian For center front dart, draw line 1/4" In from center front at aéck, down te a point 6! betew neck! ine. loner the neckline 1 evenly alt around, Draw Y-Shaped lines for the neck darts in- Gieating top of carte with notches. STYLE 5 ~ Nock Gathers [lust ration shows gathers at neck. (the space being about 2" each side of center front). 1 Using the dartless front foundstion, draw 2 slash lines. ae chown by dotted lines; then Bark sections A to De IT - First cut out the armhole and waist, darts: then slach, along dotted tines. from neck down, and spread for neck gathers, closing up the darts’ at armhole and watst. B11 = Diagram shows completed front pattern. The 2 gathering lines near neck edge, are about HF apart.Com. wee tes i6is 8 | | | The diagrans veioy show bow to allow fulness In front for single, dovble, or Front. Gartless or front dart)” foundation aoa pula INGLE oRAPE Pe Ea ae as | WAISTUNE., n Heeb oo INOW BIND {riots drape’ cow! noch, atta the dress | | | (CORL NECK WITH SINGLE ORAPE Iilusteation shows blouse with high neckline rape In front, Haektine 13 1" tower at shoulder. Using the dartiess front foundation, draw a straignt Tine. fros a point_on shoulaer Seam, Below nockiino, to center front necks Maric position for drape allowance by drawing a _-urved line” from shoulder to nock Section A’about M wide at ceapest 0 1 Firat draw squared lings: then slash front be tween Sections A and b, and spread, placing ‘ad snaking For curves e—Front giong the squared’ Tne “as tilustratea Trace Front to waistline only. ur This diagran shons completes front. Allow seams on all edges but centar frant. COWL NECK WITH DOUBLE DRAPE I tlustration shors blouse sit at Shout chline 1* toner and'a*" lower at center front. Use the regular hip-fength dregs fouptation as a-ovide, "Drags straight line fron shoulder to renter front for loner neck. Mark pos! tions. for “drape al Towance as shown By dotted’ Tinos i Draw. squared lings; then slash front between Sections: Bald C, and spread for drape. al lowe ance, placing front along’ the squared lines as Ffugtrated,” Trace Front to waistline onlys un For best results, front with cowl neck should belcut on the Brag of goods. ‘COM. WECK WITH TRIPLE ORAPE I 1 Use tho regular hip length foundation as a guide. Draw tine for lower neck,and nark positions for | rape allowance vin"sané Renner as" described above for the cowl ‘neck with double capes | 1 Draw squared lines; then glash front, and spread sections A,B and C "before placing front alony the ‘sauared lines. Make sure’ that Sections A, ang C'touch the sduared Tine as Illustrated. m1 Diagram shows front completed. { Seams are to be allowed on all edges but center Front.HIGHER NECKLINE AND PLEATED COWL NECK DESI GHS cp i HIGHER NECKLINE DESIGN i J{lugtration shows front and higher neckline in one,with } Mark posi fa tine’up tae 1 FBicing the drecs front foundation to waistline only, as a guide, ‘ark sosition for the first ofent trow Front dact to walstliner BSiash and close up front dart to spread for the first,/ C tod 1/48 ir jon for the secend plant about 2° fron first pleat. {tustration shows | “For higher geckline draw line froa A to B, then square un then connect D to 8. Ato E~ 5% then draw curved line fron D to ¢ to E. W leat as shown, in diagran 1! Allow seams, and rake notches at pleats. v W wt yh ve 3 1 e A ma \Iustration shows back view of higher neckline with’ Shock darts, Yang Use dress back foundation as a guide, Feepior neck dart, first craw now center back line by adding A/a at neck and reducing 1/2" at waistline, as show,’ | by dotted ines Feaiake neck dart 1/4" wico and 3* long, 1-1/2 From center backs the arte "It For higher neckline, éraft pattern as follows: F toG~I*. Continue center back line uo. H to 1-1", Be sure that the distance from 1 toG is 1/8" Tess’ “than tne distance trom il to Fy minus Continue the dart above the neckline te a point. au Add seams on all edges but center back, PLERTED CoML NEGK DESYGN em! iWustration shows cowl neck abovt 8" dep at center Front. Bare stitches pleats at shoulder hold the drases in position. F 1 Lh st } \\touch the squared outline, Mark sections A, B and C. i ach along pleat, lines; then close uo front dart and read between hy Band ao shown im diagram 1i> onthe bias of gosds. fark position’ for the drapesy as Hines.!"Waks pleat’ lines about 3° h ur Ising the dress front foundation as a guide, mark posi- | \ spreadao nat the lowor points of lon’ for the oleats and Veneck as shaun by dotted liness |S Ww shown by the dotted longs along drage lines from center front to shoulder and Sections A, Band’ For best recults, front with cowl neck should be cutFRONT WITH YOKE DESIGNS ~ THREE STYLES sive 1 I Using the dress front Draw a straight tine for yoke sear line, {bo center front, 3-1/2" "evove wai stl th armhole dart tovard the yoke sean'l ine foupsetion teyraistline onty, Jf Sraw neckline oat lense ines saking yoxe 5° Stee Mie Tiarh Mel fog eoty eAFt, se shown” hy,/; Dray neh ine naralie waledl ine Retwoch C261 Sea7 4S dotted Vine, ‘Mark’ sections A'and 8, fovetner, as shown tn diagram frre Be ut ao Pont abet NS, Frou arshole te front dartsthen close Complete yoke section as Hlustrated; then trace and W front dart, spreacing A and B, ae Iifustraten. oe" / | Sgn ete fron arshole then shi ¢& STYLE 2 I Draw the yoke and tuck lines Mark sections A, &, C and O +88 shown by Slash along dotted lines of up “frontdart to spread for the" tucks, agran 11s STYLE a (Surplice Front) I Draw Curved yoke line about B-1/2" tong, fotted line. ghange the front dart to soba’ yoke sean Tine, as ilTustrateds Wack sooty Slasn along dotted Line bf yore; then close spread betwean A and 8 as Shown In diagran yoke and tucks; then close 0 Goaplete the yoke section Nhe yoke 3ty ge and | Tse ‘another 1 72""al waistline bobs: GtNG Tinos aeehers asahdin”h Spite bette nr Trace yoke and front sections, at Tongs Aad ‘seans Section’ B. ‘ae Shown n Pray diagonal Lines of section A ta waistline, as shea se ochoun by HS by dotted Taness making SEAS what’ } ns Aand\B: {| Reguco another "1/2" at waistline between Band C and, A Bring’eSgether, ag‘chow”tn atansabeyte® yp dart to J ur aitking the diagonal part of ast canter front. jeen Band Eon then mark the tucks about ‘on ail adges Bul center front Atlow soams on all edges and make corresponding notches. ea ring to= oFSLASH GATHERS 1N FRONT ai um 38 2 Serre aT Fad valet! lngyspreading betaeen A-B and°C for fulssss, ANOLE SUH ATHERS Sesshown ta" lagran I" | ae: i { f Using. the dress, Front foundation to waistline ont 7 . { Gran’stagh Tine fronarahaie teligntty eiaating ;cenga.?{ Gover the neckline I* at shoulder and 1" at center Bry)! divie it into 3 parts and drag 2°lines down 3, front. \ Lines ae! Histrated. Reauce 172" at"trawatsttingy so | ur ghowi by dotted Tinos. Mark sections Ay Band Ce {Allow geaas on al! edges but. center front, and upper FAB) Slash along dotted lines; then close up darts st front.,/ edge of armhole slash, which is to be Dound. 1 in ms Be = i bs y =e i | ‘SLASH GATHERS NEAR WAISTLINE { a | : 1 aft | ER! ran slash tine. from aide sean, a6 illustrated: then? Sélose up front dart to spread for fulness; then bring r feduce at waistline, as shown'by dotted lines. Wark “.sections B and C together, | beg) Sections'A,"B ana. Draw neckline as shown by dotted lines. | BB) stash along dotted ise trom the side: then stash along ia dotted ines from waist! ne up Atlow seans on all edges but center front, teaving on Fry) Cut away reduction at side of section C. az much seam as possible atthe slashed euges: mt = | 3 Y i [| tn Z | F | P= SLASH GATHERS AT ARWHOLE AND LONER S10E Draw V-neckline, a8 shown by dotted line | 4 T m FDI! orav the 2 stash tines; as descrived for the 2 upper! | Soread section D, about 1*, for necessary additional | | proviens; then draw vertical slash lines and reduce at,’ | fulness. | wogi| Waist, a5 iTlustrateds Mark sections Ay Bs" and by NOTE: The ego to bo gathered, should measure about I-1/2 = tines the “fength of the plain edger for Example; IT Lg Siesh on gotted lines; then, close up front dart ang.” {he plain edge is §* ono,” tho edge to be gathered Bes)| bring sections B and C together. S“ should be at Teast 7-1/2" tong.FRONT GATHERS 2 STYLE 1 Cut cut front; then slach and close up darte’to spread lower neckline 1/24; then dray yoke Line 2* below and’, for fulness between Gy E and D parallel to shat Ide? and neckline. Reduce 1/2* at waisttine, as shown by dotted tines,” Divide curved oart of yoke into 9 equal parts and craw m 2 Tines down as't Ilustrated. Mark sections A0,¢ and Dr Allow seans. Make corresponding notches. —] n STYLE 2 Cut out front and separate yoke: then slash and close up the darts in tront section to spread for fulness | | : : | between #, Oy E'and Fe neeetaqeeertine 1ets then draw yoke tine, 2* below \ For" overtap’ in’ yoke, extend I" at center front and | | bell make rounded out! nes | NOTE; The edge to be gathered should measure at least Reduce 1/2" at waistline, as illustrated. Divide yoke OTE ,{he edge to be gathered should nea Hino into 6 oqual garts,and arahgie tney a partacethes I-12 times the Length of the plain eda | dray lines fron yoke. to"darts and armhole, 43 shown by a dotted lines. Mark sections A to Fy Allow for seams and make corresponding notches, ry STE S 7 1 ‘Get out fronts ther slash alow dotted tines and, close. “up front: and waist arts, briaging sections ArB Sn Draw square neckline; then continue line doan It fron “~¥2affont and waist, darts, sare one aterm i center front and across to side, as shown'by dotted fOPEeNers, Spread between D, E, F and @ fc : i fines, Reduce I" at” “the waistline, “as {illustrated : i Divide section A in 4 parts and anthole in 3 parts: el | then “draw 2'lines fron’section A, as shown by dotted Separate the front sections; then allow seans and make ! Hines. ""Wark sections A to Ge corresponding notches.FRONT GATHERS: 1 sTVe | ‘ane Draw Line tros center front, 4* above waistline, to side, 2¥ above waistline. Reduce 1* at the waistline, as shown by dotted |ines;./ m1 mr lL F stash along dotted tines: then close up front dart and »,, “bring “ceckione -ane"€ foopther.Soread” “between ACD © rornecessary adsi tional falnesss Cut avay reduction at side of section C. hen draw °2 Iines'down trom armhole, as. Tilustrated.” Separate the 2 sections; then add seams and make cor~ Mark Sections Ato E. Pesponding notches, STYLE 2 the fuiness'at’ top. Draw yoke tine: from yoke, as shown by dotted lines. Wark sections Ay 26 l{lugtrated: then drow 2 Lines down {ulnese at top. up, front dart, spreading between B and C for part of I Soread between sections € and D about I* for additional fulness ‘at ‘top “and dottoa. Draw V-neck! ine, as shown er Tee, o ae Atlow seams and make corresponding notches, Add sean Cut out front and slash along dotted tines; then close Muo"toNfente® front of wanes ut 1 STYLE 3 Divide arhole io 3 parts, and side sean in 3 parts; 1 then draw slash I?nes into’ shovlder, armhole, and side Dray! Voneckline; then continue line from V-neck to} | Seam, as illustrated: waistline for front section, as shown by dotted Tines,/ Reduce 1/2" at the waistline, as Illustrated. .--” Slash front section along dotted lines; then close up./ ur } Glash along dotted Lines and for gathers. spread necessary anbunt Tront gare. Allow seans and nake corresponding notehes.DRESS BACK DESIGNS - THREE STYLES i ‘Use dress back foundation to | Draw yore and pleat lines, as shown by dotted Sghen reauce T+"at the waistline, STYLE | t waist! arg ine only as a guide. Hines; ana'mark sectioné ) ’ 7 L L i Soparato yoke section from back:then siash along pleat Tines, and spread about In1/3" far each pleats Rliow seams and make corresponding notehes. (Trace back’ foundation { shown oy "dotted fines. \ Reduce 1% at tne Tine to yokes Diviaa back waist in Sivie 27 I and draw n Section below yoke | yoke and bustlines, thon continue stach/ nto 4 parts and mark them A-to £. Slash along yoke line and down to \ between Cand 0; then close up dart, spreading Tor part of fulness. dart at top uw Separate yoke; then slash along dotted fines fron top to botton,and spread for necessary additional fulness, ag illustrated. Add seams. c NOTE: Tao edge to be I-1/4 tines: the Tenatl athered should measure at least of the plain edge. Y sections A,B, € and De SIVLE 8 1 Trace back foundation; then, draw bust line, and the lower scam line, as iT lustrated, Reduce at waistline in 2 places, as shown by dotted Hines. “Oraw' stash" line fron arshole downs then mark Slash along lower sean line and bring sections A and 8 Aogether for the fitted lower back. Cut away reduation ab Side of Section i mm : Slash fron, lover edge to armhole between C and D: then! Spread. fae additiongl fulness, az described for the above style. ‘seane'and make” corresponding low forORAFTING A PATTERN WITH A SIDE DART, SHOULDER DART, OR DARTLESS FRONT FOUNDATION 25 a t 1 ' i ' 1 The above dlagrans show 4 types of foundations used in verious I } garwnat’ factories: © Lat 4 FRMoraes tetow show now the sane style (as illustrated op the {iprel can be drafted By Using the sie dartrahoolast angt or darElgse Front Youndation as pride, and stain thd com eset ts SIDE DART These fouc steps show hon to draft pattern, using the side FoUNDATION dart foundation as a guide. For measurenents and other details for drafting, see page 17, Styre'2. i SHOULOER apy If shoulder dart foundation is to be used, these four giagrans FOUNDATION show how to draft the pattern for the sane styler (Rote fos part of the fulness for gathers is al lowed, by closing w the Shoulder dart). DOARTLESS FRONT A ,dartless front foundation has a larger armhole than FOUNBAT ON other foundations, as"Indleated By ‘the hotchess Diagrans 11 and Iitshow how to reduce the fulness at arshole, by Bringing the notches together, thus ereating part of the Fulness' for gathers at the yoke Sean lines theRAFT OF FULL LENGTH ORESS FOUNDATION | o ep uve assy Wlusteation shows, shoulder dart ip front, ‘waist garts in. frant-and~ back OF "bodies, and waist carts In Sack OF skirts Dress hes about 5° ease around bust ang. 2" sace around pip (7 velow Naot). Waistline is close fitting. \ 1 Use the hip length gress foundation as a. guide and trace front and cack fo waistline only (about 6 -apart); then"trace Nip sections. about 2". be~ Tow'waistline: Hark sections A to De 1 Raise nip and waistline 3/4" at sige, gradually to-nothing at center of iB Sections ae chown by cotted tines. Qram shoulder dart line fron center Of shoulder to" breast point; then / | Slach and close up center front dart,” | spreading for shoulder dart es show in‘diagras 111. pr for shirt, contique straight lines doen “belo the hip sections, to re- Gwlred “length, Brew lover edge, (of... Skirtymaking the curved tine paral lel fo the curvee hipt ines HIPUNE 1 Draw Veshaped dart in front from shoulders doen {0a point. evabove Breast point For close fitting waistline, reduce at sige seas. of skirt and calsing Waistline “i7B"_ st “sige ag shown by Gottea lines. Eliminate. the gare 18 front of skit. Make waist dart in bodice front 1/2! wider St ‘watstl ine, and recuce 1/2* Bt sige of naistilné in back se ehown by dotted 1Tnes- (CENTER BACK, INOW BINDS Jo complete the Tull lenotn dress Toungation, allow a zt hen at cotton of ckirty then add seass an al! sewing edges and make corresponding notches:PRINCESS DRESS OR HOUSECOAT a MMlustration shows garment with square neckline "and Silda" fast ener closing In front. For house= Boat aake pattern ankle length. J Ysing the dress (hip tenath), foundation vasa guide, "graft pattern as follows Divide front inte two parts. A to B - Equals front shoulder. ‘A to C ~ Equals 1/2 of shoulder. © to O ~ Draw Tine from ¢ to D, at top of dare. u Divide dack Into two parts. E to F ~ Eqals A to Con front shoulder. F to G - Draw line fron F to 6, at top of dart. h = Center between F-<. 1 to J - Equals B to Con front Shoulder. J to Hl = Connect. Slash front fron shoulder, to , point D and. close upfront’ dart Be Ttiustrated, Mack grain line arrows paral le! Xo"celter front and backs ur Cut out front. sections and trace about Bt apart. Continue straight, Vines down to required Tength; then shape bot~ tom az shown by dotted |ines.. For aggitional flare at botton, ada "2" to™each sean cago at Bottos,to nothing at waist ine, Draw slightly curved Nine tn Side sectien of front at point O° Draw square neckline, as shown by dotted Vines. GOT WOVE BIND " Trace back sections ané con Unue stealont tines conn; then draw patton’ line as seser bed Tor"the front eeston~ ] Draw slightly curved line at.” point G. ° Allow seans to complete the patterns QeeUUHURUUeeeeeueeanoEVERING GOWN DRAFT ‘GATHER THIS EDGE center) BACK, 2 | 3 i af a le Bear We Evening gown features “off the shoul der" neck! Neckeage is trinned with a gathered ruffle. The fitting over the bust in front is sided by two darts EE glee, “and one cart unger the ruffle just above. the Skirt is circular, with the fulness cistributed even! around. ‘then Vad out Tat, shire forms a complete weg eagles trem Henin, arte ne lene sieht tet strap 3/4° wide. ‘ u Deaft length of neck dinding to equal the distance {con Genter front to” center back as indicated. ihis, gle the Dinging sufficient length to fit around the Guter part of the arn, Make corresponding notches at neckedge and binding which will aso indicate the sewing positions for the “ehoul~ Ser strat Draft ruffle 4*wide and 3 times the length of the neck Binding. air ang py Trace the foundation 18 ‘talst! ne ont fitting valet! Ino, maka walst cart In nd reduce waistline in back 1/2", ne! then for elose Font 1/2" wider, Bs. shown by dotted Oraw side dort: ines as tndicatd, and ark sections Ato E. Slash along the s cart linea and spread by closing ve The center" Front ane“aatet carteras thoes 1% Slsgres fe Ite 3. derte. shouts by spaced evenly when soread apart Make'each dart 2" shorter as Indl cated. Trace. the Nip sections of the foundations, and. divige gh sett fon” Rees egualsoncae! Ur sec blots F°40 far close fitting waistline draw V-shaped linesfrce ict (rnfotthe fakida" out enced ie) Scone” Bring together to Gand G to H as shown in diagram 1v. Repeat for sections I2.-K. Y For drafting the skirt front, make slashes in hip sec tion ‘fron’ hip 'to'walstl ine and spread, placing the hip section against the square as indicate for floor length skirt,continue straight lines down be- Hen, Np, as shown by'aottes tines: then dray eireular Hine at'botton. Repeat process for back of skirts ‘CHART SHOWING COMPLETED PATTERN fyBLOUSE WITH YOKE SLEEVE SELVEDGE | 'SELVEDGE *s.Bland "fron yoke. to This blouse features an invo: Slightly broader shoulders ~ Striped material with yokes, Blouse is hipwiength (6* be Worn tucked into the oki cte The darts in front and back Hinevoatye To draft blouse, dress foundation’ as & guide. wee front I broader, Nake Hines. Draw yoke lines in frogt and chost Tino infront, SF balo across’ from center. back, shoulders Draw slash line for Inn" front, fron center, joke ton breast point: ark Sections A to Fe Draw lower blouse line, Boiow waist ine of then aa “Sleeve is 8 long at under Grmsean and I narrower at Dotton. Draw ‘strat ght prose. 1 Separate yoke from front and back then close U4 dart sin back yoke betvesn”D and, Stash front on line between Fron yoke to “breast pointsand spread for gathers By eldsing up front srt. For front closing overlap, ag 3/4" to. veonter: front then mark psi flan for bak foie "ind "bettoghole, Seart,boginning the fifst at eater? yokes Mark position corres ponaing notenee at yoke sears, Eeeve’and armhole, tor for shoutder pads ~ Place yoke sections, shoulder to Shoulders then draft shoul dersas as: snown by dotted nr Mark position pocket, 2" from center front fora 4 x 4° and 2’ below yokesthen trace. Allow seas on ati sections: thon’ add hens and a pioat as TMetratod, Gutting layout to the Left shows pattern pieces. Iaido gna way striped material 20" gathers 2 ted pleat in back - pocket and sleeve low waistline),and is are joined below walst= ; back, and sleove of + as shown by dotts hacky squaring, sere mneck! “and Sauaring Selon eck (aun oy peJilystration shows front view of blouse, with front and collar'in one, and pleats at higher waistline. 1 lise drags front founéation (hip, length), as a quide. Reduce {* at the waistline, ae shown by dotted lines. / Gray higher waistline at center front to nothing at Draw foxer_hipline to nothing at side. Mark sections AG, errand 0 : E Awake front 1" u Gut out front and slaeh along higher waistline: then’ bring sections “Cand D tonether, and trace. Close up \ front dart and trace. wider for overlap at center front, and inde collar, 1" wide, fron shoulder to center back “as { Shown by dotted Tines. i a i Add seams and make corresponding notches.Mark position.” for the 2 pleats at maistline. ke a facing for front and collar as shown by dotted 7 Hlustration shons back view of blouse, with darts at neck, and pleats at waistline. Ww Use dress back foundation {hip tength}, a5, a guide, Reduce at waistline in 2 places, as andwn by saotted Hines; extending the center back line 1/4" at neck. Draw V-shaped dart at nock, as iblustratec. Mark sections E, F ané Ge F Gut out back and slash alono yaistlinos then bring sec= {Wons'F ad"eMtocether fora Vitted poplum w L Trgee the back cections, allowing for seang on all edges bit center back.. Wake corresponding notches and mark ‘position for the'2 pleats to replace the dart.REEVE DRAFTING at = Wand 11r Illustration shows sleeve gathered into a wristband,” First trace front part of sleeve and open; then trace bang | tarts Back oF sheave: 1 8 Trace siewe graft according to tye ovtline.of the draft Make wristband |* wide and the required tenath (about Era on'nace ie dingramtis thon “Grave Sleove'tor thissle — FAFpHSehSTfelioh.Aliow sesue neal capes of Stacve Te eae ay setae Tass tnd bande” Band 18 Seualty ante Seuble. Hoag) iitustration, shows stewve gathares at top and botton lustrated (the entire cuff is about 12* long for size 101. tS HP a URte. and 1 . 1 Divide top of cap into 4 oarts and draw dotted ines, BH) races trace aloe aratt anideeried for Style ty anon DeY1SHARPse8S, "Bale etefSeeh ttf Graft Siseve for this oty1e°a6 shown by dotted fines” Stash trop top to botten end epread about |* at top of = 1" ach’ slash Trace and open sleeve; then draft 1/2 of cuff as ity Allow seams on al1 edges of sleeve and cuff. 7 | |lvetration shows bel! sleeve about 9/4 length. f th :— r \ Trace and open back of steeve;then draft shane: rin- Irace the outline of the sleeve draft ac, described for \.aing band eo Titusteateds es nen Sratt shaved & hay | if Fehon Wace" ale"ael Psteate "som by dot toa i. Cn Tragestanss then atow soans on all edgess ark orain ETD | trace and open tront part of steove,SLEEVE ORAFTING 2 A Iilustration shows 2-piece shaped sleeve. i 3 i Trace slagye deaft aceording to the outline of the draft | On page le, diagran VI. then shape sioave below elbow, a8 Shown By dotted Tines. I 1 } Draw the under sleeve sean lines within the sleeve aé.” UNDER SUeEVE part a shown by dotted lines. ” Trace wach section; then add seams and wake notches. v Cutout sleeve in material and first join back seam, easing in between notches at elbow. iTustrated. yy ‘Sketch shows the Z-plece sleeve with 3 darts at top 1 Use the 2-pisce sloove of Sty}e | ae aauide; then trace ‘oper sleeves, and narh dots 2 gach sive of shoulder noten. a Draw slash Hines as shown by dotted Vines,and mark secx. Py To complete the upper sleeve, trace the front and back (} laacx) TT and ‘TW Cyt along stash lines fron top down; then across to. the sides,and spread evenly.at top for the 9 darts,raising the séetions I, for (* extension at, shoulder. Draw Wsnaped darts,"1*\Tong, “between elaches, to céaplete sleeve pattern: trans Ato E. {Hiystration shows I-piece shaped sieeve with dart in back from elbow to wrlsts I Use the requiar I-piece shaped sieeve as a guide: then, ide" tower edge into 4-equal parts, 1 Draw tine fron elbow ¢art to third point at tower edge.” and'nark sections Avand By | Slash between A and 8; then | Pifvstrate } Altow ur ad m0 close up elbow dart as Draw pointed outline 26 shown by dotted tines, seams an¢ ake corresponding notches at dart Seang to eonplete the sleeve,SLEEVE ORNFTING Tracg sleeve foundation; 2B apart. 1 Draw slash Lines as shown by dotted |fnes,and mark sec. tions Ato E. . \ {Slash cap on dotted times, and spreai sections as i! Slustrated,” raising. the sections (-i/2" at center, and ‘spreading’ evenly at top for the 3 darts. W Draw V-shaped darts"about I*fong to complete the sleeve. |! Sleeve with 5 darts at shoulder. Thig style has slightly more fulness at top than the 3° dart sleever : and mark 5 dots at top of cap, ut justrated and mark section A to Jy SS Trees, sleeve foundation 1178 apart. Draw slash fines as iI um and acroge to the sides; then only at top for the S darts, rais~ Hat centers W Graw 5 V-shaped darts atnut |" long. ‘4 stash cap fron top dove, Satan the see aha eect Sneek tod To complete sleeve, : a | Sleeve with elach gathers at shoulder. 1 Tragp sieeve foungation; the deaw the shoulder section. IPB TTS ana Be deen at center of tape 7 1 Divide cap in halt on-ci ther ang sare dots’ then fide ts le of shovider section hen divide length af” shoulder section In 4 ‘alt ,and draw dotted lines slightly curved as iVlustrat~ od, ‘Wark sections A to F. 1 Slash on dotted lines and gpregé the sections as i lus irate,” ‘raising section ¢, 2°, and spreading about V=1/2"" beteen each of the Sthe? sections. Ww Alton seans and make corresponding notches.SLEEVE DRAFTING illustration -shoss sleeve #ith great anouat of fulness At tops but FTtted trom slbow tO wrists i piece shaped siveve pattern as a guide, and '2 line down'4* Tong from the shoulder notch: fa ion for slash lines, 4* apart on either side then draw the lines as shown by dotted Use the mark Hines and mark sections A to E. nT Slash along dotted lines and spread making the spread at top about 4", Ww Shaded part of sleeve is about 4* deep and isto be sUitfaned with inter! ining. as I lustra Sketch shows slewe gathered at top but Is ited closer at the bleep than style |" sieeve, Trace short sleeve and draw line through center. 1 Divide sleeve cap into 6 equal parts; then draw 2 lines straight across as stiown by dotted fines:Mark sections ator. mt “Slash through center from top to bottoa; then across along dotted: lines. and spread as Illustrated, making the"Zpread at top about 4° Make sleeve stiffening for top of sleeve 4* deen. Sleeve has 5 pleats at top,all pressed tovard the back. r Tegeg the, "apiece, shaped stegye and mark the aositions for pleats 2 apart at top, 34 long, and I-1/3* apart at botters ‘Wark sections & to De” ide of the steove: then dram slightly curved lines as Shown by dotted tines, Wark sections © fo Ke mr Stash along dotted tines and spread as i|tustrated, making the spread for each pleat 1-1/2" wide. wv Trace sleeve and ark the pleat lines as Illustrated.SLEEVE ORAFTING (Square Shoulder Designs) 36 STYLE 1 LJivetration shows sleave with crescent shaped section at top of cap, This section 13 padded with (ateriining £6 helo tne’ Sieeve extend as ilustrated. I Trace sleeve Foundation 6* longsthen aark points ABC and B. Make Ato B-I-1/2"; Ato C and Ato D about 4, Goanect C to O through ; then divide into 6 parts as Shown by dottes Tines. Cut out sieeve;ther cut through " m fron © to B to D. Make slashes in upper eart and. spread, forming slightly curved line at top, as shown in diagran 11. 1 B to E equals 8 to A plus 1/2" (this is to build up the sleeve a littte above the shoulder}: a Slagh through oontor from top to bottom. Build up sieove, by draying. a curved line. fron C to €'to Dane sarend” 2 that the curved: tine cqals loner edge of the crescent Shaped plece. hilow seams. Pa STYLE 2 This sleeve has § darts and nag the cane fitting effect as the abave styles The top of Sleeve 1s 2120" padded, lieing the crescent ‘chapea prece ana guider I Use the consleted sieeve sections of the above style Be gyndgr Dele) the crescent shaped niece into parte, making the 4 center spacog (l/2" aide at top, Bra 23/4" aE bottom. 0 m Slash crescent shayed piece along dotted lines from Yop. to botton and spread; then “arrange aver cap of Sleeve between Cand B, and trace. The V-shaped Hines fora the darts, To complete the Sleeve pattern, allow sears on all adgess” Use tho Crescent shaped’ piece’ ints original outline for ay In ferfining sattorn, to pad top of sleeves STYLE 3 Hi Trace sleeve foundation 6* jong: then mark points. A-B and €, noking A to 8 and A toe about 4*. Draw a short Elrcular’ Vine parallel to and about 1* below the Gfstgeve, ‘and Sari polnts ‘Dee and Fs thon givide inte Greats. ab Shown by Sattad tines.Stach. From Ato Eycnd fren‘Esto fsand Eto 0; they make renainesr of slaghes along dotted Tines to top af eap and spread as. shown in dtagran TT 8 *€ to 6 equals € to A (diagram 1), Th fno°steeve' for ctuare shoulder effect is to build up us “Slash through center from top to bottom, Build up sieeve by drawing a curved line fron 0. to 6 to F, making O to Brearrespond with D to Hy ane F to G with f tol, Allow Seams on all edges.SLEEVE DRAFTING 6 i | , jeeve with band at top of ea X., | Slash center" of sleeve fron top down betcen Band C et Sree encore and. across’ 19 the ssideey” then slash into, the - lower 1 atrved‘ lines of sections A’ to'D, and up to the’ top, and Trace sleeve fovagation; then aeke sections & te 0 2%) | Spread ao_shown in diagras 111 ldo at op, 41/8" wide'at bottom, and about I" tong,” | of 1 } Build up sleeve cap as shown by dotted !ines Draw the remaining dotted lines as illustrated and mark” z sections Eto J. Allow seans to complete the sleeve. Sleeve with band and 3 pleats at top of cap. 1 Use, the sleeve with the band at top (sleeve 4) guide, and trace. Divide cap into 4 equal parts and mark dots, ig —— as aj First draw center line down 2% long; then draw renaining dotted lines as illustrated, and mark sections A to Ee ut Slash oq dotted Lines and spread, raising sections, & indie, 2 “aoove &,ane spreading éventy at top for the pleats. Ww Indicate the pleats at top with notenes. Allow seams to complete the Sleeve. Sleeve with slash gathers at top. 1 Trace sleeve foundation and mark position for band;then draw lines to the sides. —e a : Divide the band below J into 3 equal parts; then draw! tho rengining lines as shown by dotted Tines. Mark sec m Slash along the band. lines from too, down, and. to, the ‘Sides; then spread as illustrated, raising sections J, oSand making the top lines above A and E, 2" long as Shbvm'by dotted Tinese Allow seams and make corresponding notches.PUSH-UP SLEEVE DRAFTS (2 STYLES) upper SLEEVE Lower SUEVE of STWLE 1 (Lantern Design) The lover sleeve is a0 cut shat the arp open Bite ic on ine stravght grain, ‘thus keeping Re opening fron stretehi ng. A /9 foundation; then éraft sleeve Divide sleeve in 2 parts, making upper sleeve BEE" iong’ at uncerarn’s Oraft lower sleeve |/2" narrower each side of fhe underarn sean at lower edges " ce voger sleeve ‘int 8 equally seaced pris, snd mark sections & to, -then divice ever’ sleeve into S parts as shown by” dotted IThes. Wark sections | to Pe ut eparate lover sleeve section fron the upper section; then nake ei ashes fron top to loner per and sorced ce ti lustrategy Ieaving Sean falfonance “space ‘at sleeve opening betwecr sections | and F tf it w UPPER SLEEVE wy lake, jelashes In upper sleeve from lover edge Up and’ spread as ITlustrated making the space Betugen Aang B'ecual the Space bebeeen fang ¥ Allow. seams and make corresponding notches: then"cuf aut sleeve tn fabrie Gut 2 facing, |" longer, than opening, ang S172" wide; “°then sew'fo. toner sleeves” right Sides together, tapering seamyas Ii fustrated, Slash through” center for opening: then tura facing to Inslae as shown In elagran Vi. io lover sleeve to upper sleeve, Press sean ‘then. Join ungeesen sosn of sieeve end Faclho {openitg out the facing» Tura, facing to inaige again, ang slipstiten inner ease" to position. mr For closer fit acaund arm, sew a loop and Button at lover underarm sean. omer [ 1 his sleeve is about 9/4 fength end wi be worn pushed up toward thevelbow he sethod of making pattern for lower eve ts similar to stylet 1 fake out elbow, cart in sleeve foundation by making 2"tuck in back of sieeve 0 ‘thing in front as {llustrated. Trace. 11 Draft sleeve 3-1/2" shorter; then divide fleeve’ in -2 sections, vnaking lover eave 4*" long. Broaden’ sleeve slightly, Delow elbow as’ shown by dotted Iines. ut ide upper sleeve, into 6 caual ly spaced parts, and-mark sections Ato Ft hen divide {over sleeve as. Illustrated, WS mark sections G to Le w 7 Separate {ower sleeve fro the upper Section: then’aake slashes. tro top to | Botton: ane spread-as Indicated: leaving | sean Betwoen sestione tween sections | and'J 15 autonatic). Fee rele eS tae alTovance space nt sleeve opening.” Bena". (the space bee making the space Setween A and 1 Allon sears, and, make corresponging ngtches. ake’ a eating, It loneer” ther sleeve opening and 21/2" To make sleeve In fabric,use directions aiven avove for style wise. STYLE 2sme a etch shows 3/4 length sleeve with ft pushed up toward the elbow. Sleeve has allowance for gathers to herp ske: ft’ put? aroona: the atm. in age tion, the sfeove nae. an extra al Toraneé “for” an inverted plest in Earp P28h 20" ive Ht greater’ rulnoss bi nat porn 1 Erait sleeve 3-1/2" shorter: then hake cuff 4" deep as indicated. lash fron cuff to elbox dart; then ESM ose up dart as shown in ciagran IL! 1 fejircignten the ack seam tine as hown by dotted Nines; then eeparate ‘cuff and add I" for hen ac shown Ia iagran 11% q, Divide sleeve into 6 equal ly spaced ' / PUSH UP SLEEVE DRAFTS (2 STYLES) 3H" ALLOWANCE FOR INVERTED PLEAT, “| parts ané mark sections A to He Ww Wake slashes fron Botton to cap of sleeve and epread ge Indicated then Gran sotton Tine of sleeve ae shown by dotted Tine, ‘aching sleeve spout Pe¥ shorter between sections 6 and Gand about U/2"longer bet tions Frand Allow geans.in sleeve and cuff: then cut out in fabric. v ang 97 Nake the invertea pleat vefore Gathering loyer edge; then Join to Upper edge of cuffs Join underarm sean of sleeve and GUtT, lanerprees Seam open. Hen dot fon of'cutt ; v1, Showing sleeve, right side out. sTHLe 4 his sleeve (about 3/4 length) is BS iniiar “to°styfers sleeve, ut ine Stead of a" cuff” at. loer sage, Heeve “is “finishes” with s casing GBs clastic to hole sleeve in poste ‘tion, just below the efbom, 1 Draft sleeve 3-1/2" shorter; then Ferg iesh frox botton to elton cart and lose up dart ae shown in diegran IT. i tceighten the back sean line ag. indicates 4 sleeve into 8 equal EOD vico clove into f equally spaced Darts, end:mark sections A to'f w Nake slashes fron lower edge to cep DF “sleeve and spread 2 at each lash Bag 1/2" for casi lower edge. Ailow Seams: to" complet ‘he’pattern. 1 To make sleeve in'fapric, first join underarn sean, and press’ sean open; then make casing gt lower edge, Teaving a snalt opening at underara sean {0 Insert elastic: i Insert elastic (about 1/4*wide) and fasten-ends together. ‘ Showing finishes sleeve, right sige aut. STYLE 4 idSLEEVE DRAFTING Sleeve he uaderars cean. 1 derarm about OF long, and 1" tarroner Center; then divide st as shown by dotted tines. jis in two sections, and is called the, ‘Jack-- lanterns Sleeves. Tha pattérn Ts\coceut that the upper | and loner sieve’ sections are cireular, thus eliminating Trace, the one-piece shape sleeve foundation; then ; draw the outlines. of the short sleeve, making the un side of tho Underare at lower oie, Draw lower Tine slightly curved. First dividg sleeve into two parts, making uoper sec- « top about 2-1/2% Tong st Siuea, and about 5H jeeve into’s equally spaced parts deep at Separate tower si Getted Ings and épread to form twd clreviar sect ions, Slashing "fron loner edge to” top" in. tho upper sleev and from upper edge to pottee in’ lower sleeve, 2 from upper. Then slash along Arrange the spreaded parts caretully to form the inner cireles as i iustrates. Wake the outer circlos of upper and lower sleeve sec tions alike in shape and sizes a Ada seans and ark corresponding notches. arrow band at the wrist. 1 Sleeve foundation pattern” to nothing in. the Slbow, as Illustrated; then trace the sleeve, Divide, sleeve Into 10 parts, naking about 1-1/2" wide, 28 shown by dotted, |inds. 1e lower about 6" long, and sections A, 8, 0, E, F, G, Ufustration shows sleeve with greater part of fulness atout 6° above wrist, It ig a 2usection sieeve with a: Hirst take out dart by making a tuck in back of the: Frontat sleeve hand 5 mt Se S ‘WS Bp W - Stash upper sleeve along the dott fdge to" Cab, and spread aoart about 2" infront of sleeve Between “seétions A, 8 and Gy then spread apart about gt between” sections C, band E, giving a little more Fulness in back Make slashes in lower sleeve from top to lower edge, ‘and spread sections the sane anount as the upper section ‘at corresponding positions. Hines from towers ‘Add about 1" to the lenath of the umper sleeve between” Sections B and'£, as shown by dotted Tine. ut dé seans and make corressonding notches. 'SLEEVE ORAFTING ~ TWO STYLES WITH EXTENDED SHOULOERS «0 STYLE! Illustration shows shoulder extended about [-1/4" peyond the regular aemmole, I Yse the dress foundation of the Front, Back and Sleeve as a guide, Cut off part of sleeve cap and apply te Srmhole at\froat and back for extenced Shoulder, as follows: First draw a Line through center of sleeve; then nark'a dot I-17" trom top slong.the contar ting, and nark ‘dots on “tap of Sleove,3" cach’ side of the. shoul Gor nolats Hark Sections A ang’ B; thes mare gots atong.arahole of front- and back 3" fron shoulder sean. 1 Apply sections A and 8 to, corresponding position at armhole as fol low Divide sections A and B into 3. equal parts; then agke slashes. from lower edge fio and apply 10 armhole, spreading. sec tions sitghtiy as It iustrated, The sigeve cap now requires the Lurid up as follows? Divide each: side of cap in half and mark dots; then draw line betwoen cote, Draw the ‘diagonal slines as illustrated ang ark Sections © to fe Slash through conter, from top downs thon seroee into ne cap, "and. spread a0, show in diagran Paaing sections Can Hap tN tot Bae" twos places) “to qual the anount cut anay at top ef cape For arshole stash gathers, draw siash "nes as. shown by dotted lines, and mark sections to Ky then slash ahd. spread as show in diagran "It closing up front dart and reducing I/2"'at waletl ina. For bach, fay non, cepter oack 14n6, oy Fesyeing’ 1/2" at'wai stl ine and extendin Pawnee for 8 1a neck darts Reduce another 1/2" at waletline near side sean, and nark sections Land M. LIT and 1 Diagrams show waistline reduced and al~ Towance nade for gathers at armhole. Hom TO WAKE SHOULDER PAD PATTERN A= Trace front and back, placing pat= tern shoulder to shoulder and even at aranol es Draw out!ine of pad, taI/2* from necks: Tine othe corners’ of armhole as. il= lustratea. 8 = Shows conpleted shoulder pad pattern. C- Shows. pad being tacked to correct position on Inside of gament. STYLE 2 ‘Sketch shows carment sane as in Style ty bot with sleeves. athered at top,and ex Handed aout 374° bevond the. shoulder. Land It Use sleeve of Style 1: then divide upser Tine Ynto @ equal parts.” Draw” stash Hinee and'mark sections Ato E. TL and 1 Stash on dotted, lines and spread, raising Sections above €, a/a* for the fequired Sieeve extension’ beyond the shoulder.SLEEVE DRAFTING - YOKE AND SLEEVE IN ONE WITH EXTENDED SHOULOERS ‘SLEEVE SHOULDER PAD Hiustegtion shows shoulder extended about | beyond the regular arahole,. The as holds shoulder of Yoke in post tion. The sleeve is in to parts with sean through centers 1 Trace the dress foundation of the Frofit, Back and Sleeve; then draw the yoke sean Tineg-on front ang Sack as shown by dot” ted’ Tines, ‘and mark sections Ato Dray a line through center of sieeve and ark Sections E ane Fe Wark dots on cap of stesve, 2-1/2" each Side of the center lines 1 Cut through center of steove; then cut away yoke sections and place at corres ponding posi tion on sleeve cap, Leaving TS"Space between yoke and sieve tor the extended shoulder) as shown Tn aia ston Tlie For shoulder tucks, drav 2 tines, |* aparte aI Stash along tuck lines ang spread, clos ing up frank dat, and’ thus making straint Make pleat in back at waistline, 2° high along the aart tines. W Digoras shows conpleted pattern for waist v To make shoulder pad pattorn, place yoke Sections, shouiaer to shoulder, ang even at nockiine; thea draw outline of pad 15173" from’ neckline to corners of | arm hole as shown by*dotted tines. [Mustration at right snows pad bein tacked to eorrect position on inside of barnent. 4HIVONO SLEEVE DRAFT 7 The fol loving ciagrans show how to, araft ihe kimono sfeevevusing the Gress front, hack ‘and sleeve foundation pattern sea guides ALONG SLEEVE 1 Chart shows front and back traced with shoulders even at-neckline, andoi* apart = at armhole. {For shoulder pad_allowanes, ~.._ Nake’ space between front. and back at arh- ~ hale Tifa" inetesa of I. ~. Place sleeve, with top of cep over! apping 1/3" beyond the front armhole at shoul’ der, “ate having pointe A end B at. even aistances {ron armhole and Uncerarm cease Of front ang backs then trace sleeve as ion eee: Shown by dotted tines. ta Ato c= Ita Bob bie © $5.0 = Connect Gio f- Haltot ¢ top E to F = Gannect for shoulder sean tine. E tog 3 & 18 = Connect G to 0 > Connect BACK VIEW 11 raw curved tine fron C to D, passing 1/2" below point G. This becones the sean tine for the dropped shoulder style and diviges the front and back fron the eleever This sean is considered oractical fron the standpoint that the garment can be cut most econonically ta narrow width of matorial. The seam thus cut becomes the style feature of garment end cives the appearance of a dropped ‘shoulder. Draw curved line at each side of the uncerarn seas above points ~C'and', a6 shown by dotted tines. Close up front dart, spreading dart at waletiine for a pleat. W Shows completed kinono front, back and sleeve. Seams are to be al loued. Notches should be made at corresponding edges. The kimono sleeve lacks, the tailored appearance of the raglan or eet-in sleeve. For Dest results, soft and thin nateriale souls Devused for the Kisoro sleeve gésian. If the aaterial is wide enough, the sleeve nay be made in one piece with the front and back- It Ie Is eliminated. in’ diagran IV. For short Kinono sleeve styl called kinono sieeve style because the regular armhole use the front and back only as sow Lover armhole’ edge nay be flolshed with a narrow Facing, bang or curt. FOR DEEPER ARMHOLE AKD WIDER SLEEVE For deeper armhole, adé 1-1/2" to each sloe-of front and back as “shown by dotted lifes. ~for wider sleeve, add,1-1/2" on each side of sleeve at ton, to ‘rothing at notter as indicated:KIMONO SLEEVE WITH GUSSET ia Ltustrations, below show 2-piece kimono sleeve with quoset under the arn. This style steeve is most suitable inheavier material such as velveteen, woolen material, eter A kinono sleove with gusset allows the ara to raise nore easily, and when the arn 1s dropped, the. sleeve Sppeare more faitared than’ the kimono’ siéove without ihe Gussets 1 Trace front, and back foundation, placing esttern, choul- der to shoulder, and even at nackl ines Mark points A nd 8s Place sleeve foundation vith top of cap touching front armhole at poiat B; (sleeve mst be balanced evenly On both sides at, underarm seana) then trace sleeve ae Shown By dotted tines: n Divide widtn of eleeve in half fram point 8 to lower edge, point Cy as show by dotted Tine, Draw diagonal’ clash lives for queset, 3" tongs from B'to £, and from f-to G. the-angle of these Ifnes can de located by placing ruler fran to Auand F to A. For shoulder pleats in front draw lines as fol loxs: Ato = 1-1/2, Holi J tok 1n H to J ~ Connect. 1 to K = Connect. mt Separate front and back: then, slash along shoulder pleat fines fron Hto J-and | to fyand close up front Gart, epreadiag at, shoulder for pleats. Wake pleat at He'54 Tong, and 4-3/4 tong at For aygset,draft diamond shaped Section, making each Vine 3* Tong, to correspond with underara slash, lines of front and backs Gusset “should be about 3* wide Seross center, The shaded part of gusset joine to front; the light part, to bag. Seams are to be allowed on alll sowing edges.RAGLAN SLEEVE ORAFT “4 The following diagrans show hoy to drart the Faglan steeve,using the dress foundation pat tera as'a guide. 1 Trace frost and back to waistline only, placing pattern pieces: shoulder to shoulder,al th neck= Tines even the back shoulder being’ 1/4" longer, __should te Feaiced 1/4" 38 shoya by datted Tine! ‘A to B - Equals 1/3 of front arahole, A to C= Equals 1/2 of back arshate. D Wark point D at shoulder notch, of shevePeane 1 Connect. Center between E-B. Connect. Genter between E-c. Equals wiath,of sleeve at neckline, aking E tow twice the. width of tou ae follows Eto H= 1%; then draw line from to Fs E to J ~ 1/28; then draw line from J to Ge Gueve the line at points F and B iq front: at points Gand C in back as stom by dotted lines fn diagrae Tit. nr -.. Trace shoulder section froa H to 8 to A to. to J to Hs then cut out and apply to top of sleeve capjovertanping point Ai/e* bem yor point 0, and having points # and Cat even distances from Weeve as i! lustrated. Draw curved lines on sleove fron K to D and L to D as show by dot~ ted’ lines W Slash siceve fron K to 0 and L to D;then spread,having the sleeve -vtap touch the shoulder Section at points Brand G.ihis will Length= ‘on the underarm soan of sleeve about I-i/2". For gathers at neck, stash front from neck, to dart; then close “Up front dart to-allow for gathers at nach as shown in diagram vs Allow seams on all edges but center front and back. ake corresponding rotches at araholos and sleeve. There chould be at least 1/2" sage sl lavance ia tho sieovo between the notches. The raglan steove has the cane fitting value as the set-in sleeve, hesatge the fore, art of the slecte and arstole are about” thé sane in construction, It is called 2 raglan sleeve, because the shoulder section and leave Sre in one part with the armhole seass running towards the neck, In front and backsRAGLAN SLEEVE WITH SHOULDER DART - THO STYLES STYLE | 1 Use the raglan sleeve foundation pattern as 2 guide, for gathers at shoulder, draw. slash Line on front, from shoulder to‘ dart: then mark soce tTeas’a and B. Sissny then close up frent dark and spread: for grihere as shown In diegrad fi. For throw shoulder dart in sleeve, draw a line genter of sleeve. from top down, the i Langit of shoulder; en draw lines. fo" atdes “GiGleeve copy as illustrates, Wark sections Bore? To nake shoulder pad pattern ote., see dia. grant to the rights 2 Ve ree Ue wrt ih eter lla ata ig For shoulder dart,stash trow top of sl eave down and across; then spread about 3* or 4° AL top.” the spread above E will allow the Bhoulder £9 extend sliavtly~ mt Allow seans and sake, corresponding aatches in front and sleeve to indicate the post tron Yor gathers in fronts The raglan sleeve with shoulder dart, vives the garment a nore'tallored appearanée” and better fit over the arn st shoulders ee STMLE 2 | Hlustration shows raglan sleeve anit yoke 1 | Use the raglan front, back dation pattern ag a guide. Draft the yoke on front and back as follows: 1 to B-- Equals 2/3 of front armhole. C to Don sleeve equals & to B on Fronts E to F ~ Equals 2/3 of back armhole. G to H == on sleeve equals E to F on back. Bray yoke lines on front and back ae chown by dotted Hines. and sleeve foun 1 Cut avay yoke sections from front and back. and spply to cleave at corresponding posit ions. For gathers in fropt, draw slash line a6, Il _lustfated; then ‘Stabh'and spread "as shown in dlagraa TT, ur Allow sears and make corresponding gotches. Mark grain line arrow ia yoke and sleeve parallel to centor. backs Drate cult I=1/2* wide at lower edge ofSTYLE 1 Use the dress. foundation front, back ang sleeve as a guide. A to.8 - Equals 1/2 of front arshole. © to D~ Equals A to 8 E to Fon cleevo quale A to 8 on front Sraho ley Eto G~on sleeve equals.£ to D on back arate le F to G ~ Connect. H = Conter betneon F and G. Eto l= Bray line from € to 1, through-Ht, V72* wolow Hz then draw avsliantly curved line from F tot to G. Cut off cap of sleeve.on line fron F to 1 f0.G; then éut through from Eto land "apply sections to. correspending posi tions at Yeent and back ‘arshole. between A°B, and C-D, as Shown by dotted lines tn diagtan 11. Draw V-neck Fine in front, 8* dep. for shoulder pleat, drax line fram shoul der to dart; then’slash Snd close up front darts Spreading for shoulder pleat "as shown if afagram fr, nt Make shoulder pleat 5* lonp, marking with notches at shoulder and with dats 5" below. Reduce the ease in front and back of sieeve Tightly below F and°@"as Fo! lows: Ftod = 1/4" G to K- 1/4*:then connect from J to | to K for the'new Tine at tap of sleeves To coaplete the pattern, add seams anc make corresponding notches. 46 STYLE! STYLE 2 Use the dropped shoulder front, back and sleeve pattern as 4 gui Lower neckline as indicated by dotted | ness than Graw yoke lines (al ightly curved). by “continuing "from groped. shoulder Tine tS Genter front and backs For pleat, in front,draw slash line and ark Sestions Ato Er 1 Separate yoke, sections;then slash front, and Glose up, Front dart,spreading between’ and 8: for pleat. For sleeve flare, draw slash lines and mark sections F tod: ur Slash gleove from lower edge up, and spread about 3" between each sections 2 RMlow Sease on all but fold edges; then make Corresponding notches In yokes front, “and Backs Mark arrows for grain lines.EEP ARMHOLE SLEEVES (WING SLEEVE DESIGNS) - 2 STYLES a Make cart stvte 1 eee This style features a 3-1/2" Sbepet armnoie sleeve Front nas diagonal side dart. 1 Draft deeper armole cans ~Witer shooter ae indicated: Draft sige cart Ines then Bath sett ons 4 tod" Gloge vp front and, waist arts, “Soregeina “side dart S5°SRowo' Tn dtaptan it. iH Cut out front and back along She fon arencle "tines: “Sen {tact as" Iilurtrates Place eleave with cap alnost falching:arehols af shoulder an baleneing elesve stench’ siaes Trace. Draw front part Capt foe avay fron. SaB'wlden, E09" of She 1 Gtmole’"toPetoow ‘ee inet \ enfee, ' : 111 end 34 ; ‘Trace outline of sieeve alena! new cap. tinesthen divide top SF esp into eaval parts. To lengthen underare seam at Yop, fest arew curved: stash ry his atoue OM sce at cach The ‘deep armhols® sigeve must, be so con- |] S/desthen divide, in half ana Structed that’ it’ snoyiaalfor, the wearer” || B2°k sect ons D to H {o'vaise her ara quite cenfortably. Slash as islustrated ang To acconplich this, the cleeve pattern |} sptead.., raising sections, O Heel SBeP eb stlt ws ANtemT Noga ect |] gerbes 7a aac are The’ top Of°the underarn soan as denon |] erach sean ‘lines a8 inc Allow seang and nake corres strates In diagrans f1 and 1¥. tated. pondlng notches. For exanol: the “ates For a 3-1/2" deeper armole, {== underarm sean ahould be Fengthenad3-1/2* atthe top:for-an are hole "2*" aeeper, “add 2" to the top of STYLE 2 Steve’ undersen’ sees, “ate ‘Te ‘Senor |] this style features scuare | ras auch ag, the aemhois, isd afaiol® sleeve,” 3/4 leagih, | ed,s0°much must Se added to the anda" ceaper Aranole. Of the" underarm Sean of sleeve at tops 1 Draft square armhole 3 deep, Land 1/28 Wider” ‘Shoulder as Shown by dotted tines. Close up front dart and Spread “waist dart as shown in dtagran i1, it Cut out front and back along ew arahole lines; then trace Front,back and sieave as de seribgain style i, dlagran TT. nin ana a4 Trace out ae of stone alana! Tearesott fatal MERE as! e8) SFrestPiatStet tual ites fo Ignathoy undurars, sean 3! To lengthen ender are seat, Thaet oY inen'Stasnesd spr8ed sents ietteet SLEEVE 4 For. 3/4 sleeve, oratt slesve & | gH shortorstheh wigen isave Sng | Shown by dotted tines Bat | Add 1" how at hover edge. | ELBOW UNE | Allow seans and nako corres~ ik ' ponding notches. iDEEP ARMHOLE RAGLAN SLEEVE ~ CAP SLEEVE DEEP ARMHOLE RAGLAN SLEEVE This style features a 2-1/2" deuper aemhotey. with shou Ser dart in sideve- The sleeve pattern” eau gtnening of ‘underarm: se oe tp. se: informat Given Par —Sdaep aranole” Sieete on’ preceeding save. 1 Draft the aeeper armhole and broader” shoulger” as Indi ~ cated. For neck gathers, draw slash Vine"fron neck’ te. breast point, ‘and mark Sections. A 2nd" 'B; then" slash and close front dart as" shown tn -sdlagrasla. u Draft the raglan aranole lines, “drawing the tines stigné ly curved as shown by ~dfotfea Vines. Mark Sections Crore. 1th ang 1¥ Trace outline of gleeve;then aut cut ect fons Gand’ ane place, over top of sleevecan | "TT ustrated ‘ 7h each side of Sleeve, connect ~~“ Frensseet ions Cana’ to el~ | pow line. ' 1 ' 1 Vang v1 Trace outline of sleeve al new shoyldor sect on tin then divide. each side of up per'seax into 4 equal parts. , To lengthen under: sean at | Yop, first draw curved. sash Tvhés' about 2! deen at side. of sleeve; then di invbal? and mack 5 tol Slash as_{ilustrated and Sorone, ralaing, ‘oct iont anol, 2-172"; then draw un derara sean. ‘Iines st tantly Girges 85""enown’ oy aottes mr Allow aeans and make corre ponding notches. red GATHERS ‘caP SLEEVE ve ig 4c1/2" long at center, and Tong at underarm sean. 1 Trace outline of sleeve; then draft cap Sleeve as shown by dotted lines. u ‘cut out sigeve along the oom cap 3] Sutsfae;” then divede. foto LO-parts. as Tndicated, Mark sections A tod. 111 Wake slashes along the 6 center tines And spread, placing lowe edge of | sl ona straight line. duce “afrantiy” at each sige of siceve Setwoen ASB, BCs Holand. I-de Ww For a faced sleeve, seke sleeve and Facing invong by covereing pattern to other side of straight Ting. In order tomake the lower edge of sleeve avatratgnt [ine ali the way across, re~FLAT FITTING COLLARS - ROLL FITTING COLLARS 0 STYLE | STYLE | -- FLAT FITTING COLLAR tustration shows collar, Peter: Pan design. U Frges, tom ang ogek of fated yal of drgas foundation, averlapping 1/2" al armhole. be ween 6 eng Gy and”even at neckline, point h. Thre willoive the collar about TAB" r3It ah ich IIT fend & hice the sean ait around’ the neck, lower neck! ine 1/2" at center front as. shown by"aottea' line. n Draft collar as follows: 0 to E ~ Equals width of collar at center back (bout 23/083, Draw outer ge of col lar parallel to neck! ine; then curve front of collar as illustrated m1 This diagran shows entire collar. Allow seans on all edges. STYLE 2 FLAT FITTING COLLAR Sketeh shors sailorcollar design. Col lar also has 1/8" roll at neck. Front has a Voneckl ine, about 4* deap. There is 2* opening bolow collar at Front fer‘ lacing. conter 1 Trace front and back, overlapping shoulders al’arwhole as described above for Style ly A to B~ Equals depth of ¥oneck. © te B- Connect for V-neckline of fronts a Draft collar ae follows: D to E ~ Equals about 6". E to F ~ Equals 8*. Square fine across at Es F to 8 - Connect to complete collar draft. ut Diagran shows entire collar. Allow seas. 7 SHAWL COLLAR | ROL FITTING COLLARS. POINTED COLLAR Cd Trace front and draw V-neckline as fol lows bt B- Bt © to B ~ Camact. jar, first trace back then build up stand’ as fellows: D to E = Equals twice the stand at canter back, Far example; If collar hac al” stan oxtond contar back Tine 0 to £, 2) E to G » Equale back of mack, 0 to F. sauare this line across at’ Ey WI F to H ~ Equals 1/2 of shoulder width. G to H~ Connect, F to | ~ Equals 6 to W plus 1/4", H to | - Curve a tine for tower edge of collar. w Trace back of col ar “en another sh tof paver, fron t'to B fo 6 to to ly eat olf. xh fh wr ¥ Draft front part of collar ae fol lows: © to J = Equats F to H on back shoulder (ata gran TIL), J to K = Equals 6 to H on back of col lar. K to 8 - Equals front néckline ¢ to B. Oraw astraight Tine from K to Be Aoply back of collar (line G-H) ta front fine WED as iTlustratea in'diagran Wr. a For pointed collar,complete front pact telow as" shown by dotted, tines [the pointed ent ofcollaris 4* larg, 2* avar fas center front). For shawl collar design, draw slighty curved Phe trom (tobe eae wa Diagram shows outline of half of the br epotnted collar. Add seams on all edges but center back. shaw!WAWNI SH SH1RTWAIST COLLARS (2 STYLES) COLLAR WITH SEPARATE STAND, t CENTER conten FRONT W COLLAR WITH SEPARATE STAND [llugteation shows collar with 1" stand at ct ter front and 1-3/8" stand at center back. 1 COLLAR BAND Trace front, ae shown by dotted lines;then draft collar as follows: Ato B ~ Draw etralght line. B to C= Square a line up I* for center front Stand. © to 0 ~ Equals line A to B plus back of neck 0 to E = Squace a Hine down I-1/2* for stand in Genter backs 1 £ to F ~ Square a line from € to shoulder. F to B - Connect. B to G - Extend line 5/8, G to C - Draw a curved ine. ur OUTER COLLAR © to H ~ Equals D to € plus 3/8*. © to 1 = About 2-1/2", Oraw straight Hine through = First square tine at Hz then connect to w Divide the ovter collar section inte 3 equal parts and ark thea J, Kang t. Slash from lower tdge and spreads afout’ "Qt each clash, ae Pifbetrated. this aiforance is for eace over’ the Allow seams on all edges but center back; then ake corresponding notches ‘COLLAR AND STAND IN. ONE y \, \CENTER FRONT " Ww COLLAR AND STAND IN ONE Ilfuetration shows collar with I* stand at cen= ter back. 1 Trace front; then draft collar as follows: A to B - 1/2", for lower neckline. B to C - Draw straight line. € to D ~ Continue straight line from C to D for back of neck ae). 0 Trace curved neck! ine betneen B and to opposite side'of straight lines un This equals stand in center back. Draw lines'O to-E and fron Eto curved Tine with the square, as illustrated. 0 to F - Equals D to E plus 3884. Ww About 2-1/2" tong, with point @ 1 fron center front. Firet square a line at F; then connect tobe Dito & Btos avay Ftos Slash col lar in two places and spread, 95 iltus~ rated. thin alfouance ts for ease over the shal Allow seams, Wake corresponding notches at neck edeer eeeCOLLAR AND VEST 1M ONE (2 STYLES) 51 Ww STYLE | The collar has a I* stand at’ center back. The west Is double breast- ed, and ts part of the gatrent. Using the fitted waist Foundation a3 ay guide, draft. collar and’ vest as Tol lone! : r First cut ayay a section of the front which is to be- cone part of the vest, as shown by cotted lines. n Draft vest 4* wide toa outline; then draw rolling un Fold paper on rolling line and trace vest section. Wand ¥ 1B the method as given for 1 5% above the squared we to shovider. Draft back of eoltar, the Rol Co lfarFPage’ 43). a Opt gut Pack collpr segtton, and apoty to, fron wi Shoulder Hines touehings bringing edge of collar 2-1/2 From armhole, Then driv avcurved’ fine ‘from neck of coilar to vest, a8 chown by dotted Hines m Draw a curvod Fine for the Front of collar. vu Diagran shows vest and collar in one, completed. Seans are to be allowed. 6 Rolling tine MI Posi fon For Loops.” stvte 2 This vest meets at conter Tront, and” fasten with Biftots and loops. Vost is held at waistline With an elastic belt. Collar rolls in back with aol Stand. It is a detachable cotiar and vest style" which may benorn with a jacket, 1 First, draw a Voneck Hine, 4° dee vest 4" wide and'1® below’ waist! in 0 Trace vest as shown by dotted lines. then draft the ua and 1 Draft pack of collar and apply to front shoulder, ae described above for'vest Styte Ip then dealt front of Seass are to be allowed so that collar and. vest may be faced,DRAFT OF 2 = PIECE SKIRT FOUNDATION 52 52172! Fron waist to hip Eavale [/aot hin geacuré olus 1/2" for ease, Equals hioline G20, Square across at Etuals center front fine Ac8 plus /4*, Oraw a Line! p frowé to". through Os annect by drawing SIightly curved Line. Equals 1/4. of “Swsep measurement ;then connect fron 6 t0 0. Equals 174 ‘of vaist measure plus 1/2* for eas to d= Conngety (1/" “dart may be aden front, In piace of the easel in B to K~ Equals 1/2 of tine E-Gr then stuare a line froa slde sean 19 point K. To complete the front, draw a curved Hine at bottom, and above point Das shows by dotted lines. Draw curved nipline oaralfel to tover curved tine, 172! ;then dray Silgntly curved line fron A to J. (Sieot fied Method For Regular Sizes) 1 1 W 2 4 att © kf 4" tai STBANO jc > 7 4 ah ab yg center Center Front Back 3 engt Length ag Lenath ' s conmesronoing P°]weasuRsuenTs. 24] 36] 2a) ({s0| se [aT a sa] 35) 37 (iss [ar [as | 6 : ce we} ae [oop ise foe} sole ® oe * ORAFT OF FRONT ORAFT OF BACK 1 nt $0 8 - Eats center front lenath. to 8 ~ Equals center back. lenoth. 7 'trow waist to hip. 2 Equals 1/4 of hig aeasure plus 1/2 for ease = Equals ine C-D, Square across at 2 Eeuals conter back Tine, fess 1/4 Gonneet. by drawing slightly curves” tine Equals, 1/4 of awceos then connect from 6 to D. a vith 1/8" grede. for each aise Eaiels cto Se a¥. naped dart, Equaia. t/a of 172" then ara = Gonnaet connect to H and make 1 ide St paint Jo St measure plus 1°" for dart. ohtly curved tine,fron t ta Ay 1, M~ Equais 1/2 of tine 8-G; then yse sage method to complete the back as deserised far the front. For wajatband, sake 2, double Sand 1-1/2* wide finished Sed, “the. length of waist measure plus 3/4" extension for Taft sige opening. To complete pattern, allow for seams and hen. This, style pleats. at aie DRAFT OF FRONT 1 Trace outline of front foundation: then add a 2° o/ oat at ‘loner part af center front as shown by dotted tines Maxe 1/2* dart, 4° tong at center of waisttine. u et, draft a corresconding section to fit the for the 1 noth oF pleat. width’ and 4-PIECE SKIRT WITH PLEATED INSETS, foatures, lover part of center rot snd. back whien adds to" the sweep at lower edge. — a nI W Inverted CENTER BACK, 1s. & ‘DRAFT OF BACK 11 ang 1Y Trace, outting of back foundation; then nave the pleat Ase faset, the sane width and length as for the front, thus adding 16" ta the lower edge sweep of Skirt. Allow for seams and hem.INOW WINES 4-PIECE FLARED SKIT Uflustration shows skiet on the bias at center front std,back:straight at side seans. band 13 1 wide tial shed. Deaft according to the following aeasurenents: Front Fenath Hin ci reumes +93 Boek | ON IT BH I A to B- Eqals center front engin? Ato G- Eqals 6-1/2" © to D ~ Equals half of hiv ci rcunference plus i for case. Saiare this Hine across at C. © to E- Equals 1/3 of line C to D: then draw fare line" above D about’ 10°" tong, pivoting at B = Equals I/4 of lower alge ci reunference. Saiare this'line across. at 8 Equals 6 to F. Before araving this line, place square by touching point F fot lower edge, and toueh ing outer Euevo of ato. lind for cantar back Tinas then dean 6 to. 1 for totion line, “and Ge A Toe center back tine. a Tp curve botton line, draft as fol lors: 8 to J ~ Equals half of & to Fe G to K - Equals nalf of G to F. J to K = Connect; then draw curved tine, For walstline, draft as follows: Ato L= Equals 1/4 the distor between A to He Square this line across at A. = Equals line A to Le Square this line at H;then connect L tN, and draw curved line. ~ Eqals naif of L tom. = Equals nalf of J to K. = Connect for side sean Hine. am = Equals B to C = Equals 8 to C. Draw curved nip line from 0 to P 12 C parallel to bottom srebrved fins. = Equals rediction at waistline (about TPB}? Then connect from ft to Pe Draw grain line arrows parailel to the side sean. Allow seans and make corresponding notehes.Add hen°at lamer edge (about ens. The diagram bolow shows cutting layout. for St plsid material. rom LF SIDE VIEWDRAFT OF 6 GORED' SKIRT (3 STYLES) 84 STYLE 1 sme | This, skirt ig cut In 6 gores. and has a 60" sweep at lover eines E 1 To draft outtine of skirt, use Gonblete -ciractions given for HePacotece Farea axfrts gage ali the” measurements “excen the vottoes which Ts 60 4 for the 6 gored skirt, first eran “the “curved nipl ine, as Shona by dotted tine; then arate the sean lines for the nels, tn front. afd back 9s dleates, noking the panels atonige at hp and 5-172" wide tt Botton: a Make reauet lon at waistiine Oh wast fo hipt ings by arar- a” Slightly. corved" lites" ae shbea'ty" dotted’ ness. “iiark Gortespending notches. le ” |Z For waistband make a double Fa 2 ig lo g band I" wide finished and the = 3 3 g | length of - the waist measure, B RY afughayde orteteion For teté iS 2 ig 8ide openings ie iz ig To,conplete the skirt pattern allon for seams and add hen at \ Botts Ww Be STYLE 2 STYLE 2 Inle, okirt features 2 narrow 2 Te sal ates 4 Ae i 2 Using the front sections as a Ss te a ee vo gts TE Flt ae feral dT tcc Bese see on genet * Wake corresponding notches. NOTE: The space for gathers | i (between note! 8 should mea- | oe dt) So : aa ee INOW 505 as INOW TNow 305 Ty | cl yp a STYLE 3 STM 3 ents Ny ‘Sketeh shows wide gathered front 4 UE Fanel ith inside pocket at each go Sigs of onal Gonitos are trim Peerntittcd eZ a 1 Using the front sections as a Pocker: Guide, ‘make panel, It wider, Snd°sice section 1" narrower { 11 and 1 For gathers at” waist! ine. Vide" pane! into’ parte; ‘then Slash “and. spread, increasing The” ‘upper edge. about 2-1/2" and baking “lower edge, equal. ihe upper edoe- r t cats poshet and rol te for, pocket opening, making. the Puffie Tf eo Falshese 3 INOW INOW aaiS TOF INCH BIND ANow INOW 305PEGCTOP SKIRT DRAFTING 5 STYLE | ‘CENTER FRONT (CENTER FRONT sTyLe t. This, style features pleats in front,which give the pegrtop effect. The pleats are held in position with 2 pointed yore, The back of skirt is plain in desion and the sueen At lower edge Is about 48" of 45° ‘The fabrics used should be soft, thin,and pliable. a a Jo draft front of skirt for this style, use skirt Front foundation as# guide. 1 Trace outline of front: "then draft the yoke as som In"theslagrap, ane mark section A. Draw the 3 pleat lines as fol lows First divide lower yoke line into 4 equal parts; thon divide lower skirt Hine inte 2 equal parts! Wark a Got on ste seam ine, 10" below watstline, Draw the pleat ines as shown by dotted | ines, and fark sections B to E, " Jo allow for pleats, stash detween Band C from top 1S Sider ang gpread’ for pleaty forsing a steargnt fe af’ side Stan. Then" Slaén along’ the other 2 ines from top to botton and spread for pleats as Indieated'on the disaran. 1 Complete the pattern by marking the pleat lines Sbovt 2" lang; then stlow soms on sll sewing edges, and ado hen si lover sage ‘CENTER FRONT STYLE 2. IIlustration shows peg-top shirt with 6 pleats on each side af center’ front, The pleats are stitched together on the inside, having the pleais nearest. to center front abgut 4F Tongrts about 2" long nearest to the side sean The method of making the pattern is, similar to style Noy ly and theval lowance forthe 5. pleats should total’ the allowance for the 3 pleats in Style | For 2 more prosinent pegetop skirt, @ greater al~ Fowanee for pleats may be made, 1 Trace outline of skirt, front foundation, and divide the bottos Tine foto 3 eauai parts; then draw the Teat’ tines as shown by dotted tines. 1 To allow for the 5 pleats, first slash along the tines between AB and C, from waisti ine ta and spread for 2 pleats, forming a straight ling cide sean. Then slash along the other 3 tines from top to bot= fom, and spread as indicated. 4 Draw tho plest lines ingigating the correct stiteh ing tength for each’ pleat To'conplete the pattern, "add sears on the sexin edgess and add e"Sem at’ lower edges i!Ree eee eee eos PEG-TOP SKIRT ORAFTING 58 Civide into TT Baqual Spaces This is, 9 cow! peg-ton design, thevstirt Raving Side. pockets. snd Shpiests an ench side'of center front Trace outline of skirt front foun- dation, and divide batten line into'S"equal oarts. Draw sloeh lines for the pocket, fowl and pleats as shown by dot ted lines! then mark sections & ton 1 To stralahten side sean tine, ‘slash: between & and 6, fron waist Tine tonig and across to” side: \ then Spread, forming a strarght Ning at "siaé sean. HIT and rv Continue slashing read \. section Cfo the top as) illus ea CENTER FRONT ¥ Sash along remaining pleat lines From top. 42 Sottan, and. spread for'plasts. and cowl 36 shosn in the &: pram m == Add, pocket section as shonn by Gotted Tires: then add seams and indicate pleats with noteles. to'thevgide sean, mating fron part of skirt place This will Bilow the pleats and cowl to fall in'Soft folds. Ww After cutting out material, join Center “front “seany then’ dake fleats and baste at uoper edges To fora pocket, turn material o.-Ftaht *shdes together, Std Join Selina ingieated. "Turn elgnt sfde ou wt Sow a stay piece to inside to hold pockets and pleats in o0si tion. S SS SX n >> LIhis illustration shows outsiae View of ‘skirt front \S IAS MN ANCURCULAR SKIRT ORAFT (CENTER FRONT (CENTER FRONT CENTER FRONT WAISTBAND mi 4 a Iv CUTTING DIAGRAM St.veDce 2 \lusteations, snoK 2 2-piece clreular aktet, wl th'the fal fess. distributed” evenly all rounds The skirt is so circular that center front “and. center back Tet'Vs_ on the erossei se 000s, “and” the sive seams Ste lengthwise az show in the Eutting Layout boion (ahagran I¥)e 1 To graft the skirt, use the Blain o-plece skirt’ foundation 35.2 guides Trace outline of front and ‘ack, but Continue. sige eean ines straight £0 the top 3¢ noteates, Divide each skirt section into Fyceual parts, a lean ted Ines, ané-nark’ sections Ato F; then Feauce at waistline — by ScaningVeshoped) Vines (roe waist fo higiine as Indicated. 1" Reduce waistline in front 0) belnging” sections A,B" and stogetner above the nipline sae spreading” delow Rio as 1ilus: Trates, Repeat process for back of skirt. ur For additional fulnese at lover edoe, make “slashes ip aktrt Front Fron Rip to waistline: then spread, placing sections Kang @agalast the sauare as indicated Repeat process for skirt back. Draw circular lines for botton orekirt. For waistband, mske a double band (ot/2" wide finishes and the length of waist sessurey dius a/4" extension for left Sige opening: To coplote pattern, ace scans on “all “seaing scaés, and add a'narron hen a loner’ edge. w Diaarap shows, cutting layout for shires batted fines. ines Cefed other nal for front” and BeckSKIRT DRAFTING 58 Iilustration shows sports skirt with pleated side sections, ang In inverted pfeat at lower’ part oF center back. «Skirt nae a sean at center back above the plest, with darts at tops mo-o--R2 1 Trace the outline of the 2-piece skirt foundation: then trace” the 2'agrts in back: CENTER FRONT Divide front into 4 parts, 2¢ shown by ‘dotted lines making Section A, st vides a" below nipy aad D-1/4* Wide at'botteny then” vide Side Section into 3 parts of egial withe u . a Separate the front,side and back; wv then g6d aupleat IA back 12” (089 and 4" vides oy Uf waietline requires further re~ duction, draw “Tine tren hip! to swat: the' equi red ancunt, as shown By dotted Lino at center’ Sack. The lines between B,C and D are the position wiere the pleats are 5 Mm Allow for 2 side pteats in side Sections The sant to be ‘allowed for the pleats depends on the de i sired" wiath at lover edge, tie Ueual allowance being. about 3° for each pleats Allow seams on al! odges but_cen- ster fronts. Makela sider Sean al ST plow hi pl ine. Recuce side seans at waistline to fothing "at nip as shown by dotted Hines. far front closing overlap, ada 2/4" to \conter front fron waist to nip. For pleats, draw lines in front ang dackas. Idi cated;" then slagh and Spread. as show in diagran VIII. var Add seans and nes: responding notcha: thon make corJACKET AXD COAT FOUNDATIONS WITH SLEEVES INGLE BREASTED, TT JACKET SLEEVE | 1y DRAFT “J “IACKET FOUNDAT oH Using the gress foundation a6 9 guid, trace front sang. back 1/4*- apart at S1de sean: then Sroaden, the shoul dors I/2*, Toner the armhole 172", end. lower he geckt ine 1/82 atom By “oes ses. i fos single breasted jacket, aud) 2/4* £8 contgr’front: for double breasted, about 3. For jacket sleeve, use method of draft inp aa"“oiven For, dfosa a nove, but Tor the dress sleeve cw €0°the deeper TIT ORAFT OF JACKET SLEEVE This chect shows craft of sleeve mate mlogr‘at ara ang, slave fo provide” tne Fockesereotetaial greater" width cnan en grgee sleeves The uncorara Tengah Is 1-3/4". " W The dotted lines show the shaping of tne “sleeve T=t/B foruard, and St wide at loner edge. ’ Yark the position for soans wich form the under’ sleeve sections The ‘extension at’ the lover back edge is for” the Dlacket. w Complete the upper sleeve section by Eraging the front and back parts, a3 shown’ by dotted Tines. DOUBLE BREASTED. ‘OAT FOUNDATION Using the dress foundation as_a guide, trace front and tack 1/2" apart st side Sean Lowor the neckline 1/4" ane armmole tthen broaden shoul sere 17 2¢ u For a single breasted coat, add 1* to Center. fronts for. double’ Breasted, stout 3-1/2" For coat sleeve, use the sane nethod as. given for the dress, sleeve, but ake! cap height | aroator” thin the TET DRAFT OF COAT SLEEVE This chart shows graft of sleeve made th coiforn ‘with the dimensions of 3 Seat gioave, with underarm length oak w For a slightly shaped sleeve, bring fowgr” part‘of Sleeve forward’ about ait, Trace front and back of sleeve as in- dicated" by dotted tines: then draw a Wishapod dart’ slong back’ of sfeeve at elbon. NOTE: For Jackot and Coat foundations, Beans are to be alvovad on all sewing adores.™ HON TO DRAFT THE JACKET PAD fake shoulder pad pattern In 4 sections. Section 4 is used only when aking a pad cover. FSmyno pad cover ic used nainly for unlined Jackete and Coats. [and 12 pratt,top sections of sad ea: f0l loys fo'g'SPi6t for'size 16 (with L/a'erade for each size). 10.6 = 5'.(this ccvale fait of & fo.8). 1D a-a7at Stor stae" Le (with 1/8! grade far each 2 sizes). to - Connect, te B = Connectthen draw curved tines as shown in dia~ Oram Ii. raft outer section of pad ag fol lors: toF= 7-9/4" for “size 16 (with 1/8" grade for each size), E to G - 3-778. (This equals half of € to F). B to H = Z-7/a". {01 = fa/ee; this represents the, thickest part of B48) Bade Then’ ran "eUrved nos as. otown in agram ir, nec heh RE a un te JACKET AND COAT SHOULDER PAD ~ HOW TO DRAFT AND MAKE THE PAD oa F |unoee SLEEVE thes Slagram 11, Draw a V-shaped daré 4% tong and 1/2* wide at point Le draw curved Ines as shown in ur To complete the pattern for the pad cover, allo seans (about 1/4"), and nake corresponding notches. Mark sections 1 to 4. FOR THE COAT PAD Moke draft, sana as for tho Jackot paé, but make the Feifowing changes: Entel | ia 6 to - 9-3/0" é Sisk: te | f toe = Ser 31st ster 6 a Wake V=shaped dart 1* wide at point Le Ww How TO ADJUST PATTERN FOR SHOULDER PAD Adjust front, back and sleeve according to the direc~ {len given for the dress pad'on pepe Is, SHOULDER HOW TO MAKE THE JACKET AD. i Cut out sections 1 and 2 in Grinoline; then stitch sean, j'tking up" 1/a* sean. P the ay i iN e35 sean open; then cut away 1/4* s0am allowance on outer edge. ea 14 ane Pt, | layer of cotton batting, the cane shape ae crino~ Ine:tran cuts more. layers, aéch 3/4 smaller on shout “der eigen (fer coat eut 6 nore layere, each 1/2" sea ier Ph, sioulcer edges}. Areange’ in posit lonsas I Tustrates! ben’ place cr{nol ign’ en'fop ang: baste: thianing. tatting 20-nothing at°snosioer edges. yand oy out section 3! fo mustin, trim ava Seam allorance on cuter edge; then make'dart by stitch ing together on dart lines. After cutting ae vir Place muslin against cotton side of shoulder pad and baste. vik This diagraa snows finished pad. 1x and x ~ PAD COVER eas section | to section 2; then. sew section 4 to seu- Tions “T, 2-and 3 taking up 1/4 seans. Turn right eide | Gubsesilh pad! betveen'edges of cover, titan raM ofoas | Rogether! then overcast.JACKET WITH NOTCH COLLAR, wi lracin| rs ‘upeee! COILAR Te Seaas are al loves, Jacket, single, breasted, vith shout ‘ger or neck dart fuking. Waist darts form Fitted waist- Jacket has a sea at center back and darts at back neckedge. The collar has.a |-1/4* stand at Gunter chard’ I" stand at Shout 1a Using the jacket foundation, sack position far. shoulder dart? then Sontinue to draw a-straight, line at canter front, as shown by dotted Tess For, shoulder dart, swing, upper part of front to within I/Pt of fatted line By pivoting at breast points m For, single breasted jacket, acd 3/48 to center front, bringing Line {oat agove waistline. From that point, draw the rolling line, "stop ping 1" away from neck at shoulder Fold on rolling line; then trace neck ang'eenter front, as. shown by dotted Tine. A to 8- 1/8", (For heavier nate: Fial’ as "eheviot, etey arkpoint 8 174" fon A}! This gives the outer edge of the callar the neces sary ease over the shoulder. D —- Goahede a tol ity Tins” wt Trace revers to complete the front. wnt For facing, trace front, making it I" wide at shoulder and 4! wide’ at Toner edge. vat lengthen facing 1-1/2" to correspond with the front, as shown in disgran a. Wake upper collar 1/8" wider than under collar. x For neck dart, mark a ine from neck (i/2" from rolling Ninel to breast” point. 1 Close shoulder dart to form neck dart;then draw V-shaped aart about 4¥ tong. Draw 2 waist darts 6* long, 3¥ above and 3% below the waistline. Make each dare [/2* wide at waistline. au Complete draft by tracing back foundation to the. frant, with side seams evony shift side geam toward Back 2" and Feduce I* each side of line at waists Dray new center back line, reducing 1/2" at waist, and adding 1/4" at neck. Make a neck dart 3° long and I-1/2" from centor backs Lengthen I* at conter back and 1-1/2" at center front.WAIST LINE, HP INE Back DRAFT OF CARDIGAN JACKET @ ‘caRD i680 This style “Jacket is usyally single breasted with a V-neck front, Sone of the features of thie style are as follows: a Front shoulder tuck, 1-1/4" deep atarahole, Double welst darts in front be~ Ton waistline. Shoulder dart in back Seam at center back with waist Sarte in back, 10" longs 1 Use the jacket fouidatien to draft this pattern. Mark position for showlder tuck : slash fine, from shou der to bust ‘and down to hipline as indleated, Hark’ sect ions, A 0 Ce : 1 OS Slash fron shoulder to bust and \ sewing, seston Ato withia 172" \ OF dattes tine, a ur To make the 1-1/4! deep shoulder Uicky slash from duet to nigh ine Nand "spread section C, 9-1/2" at a ‘Shoulder, as Ii lusteated. Mark dotg on tuck |ines to Indi- cate a4? Tong tuck. W For, single breasted closing, adé 3/4" (naximun I) to Bratt v-neck’ ine, 5% below high neck! ine. Lergtnen Jacket front “T-fizt Sat "center front, and 1* at sige seam itark position for puttons and suttonholes.about 9-1/2° aoart/at center front. Draft the waist darts a" long (4# below, and 4% anove the waistline, as indicated. Use the part of the darts Sgelow waistl ie only, as stewn io diagram Ye Carve the’sige sean’ Slightly below waist lina. wand 1 braft facing I-I/2" wige at shoulder and 3* wide below bust, Add IY nea’at Botton of rront Draft “pecket'S" deep and 5-1/2" wlde: then add 1 hen at top BF pocket. ur Reduce, 1/2" at conter back waistline, to nothing at oT hin ard bust ine Increase the "1/4 shoulder dart in back to 3/4", as sshown in dlagraa WIL. vue Draft the back waist dart, lo" tong. Lengthen back, 1* below Niptine: then curve the center back and side seam fine, st ight ly, ux Ado _1* nem at dottan of pack, Bratt the neck facing, I-1/24 wide, as shown by dotted Tes. x Jo complete the oattern, add seams and sake correspond~ ngs notenes.OUBLE-BREASTED JACKET 7 ‘Sketches show the front and Side view of the jacket. Front has shoulder dart and waist cart fitting. \ Back has a sean at, center back and is in'# sections. Jacket has the: regular notch Use the, jacket foundation to aratt this patterg. P00 tine Pe t | Mark position for shoulder dart: then continue to. draw 2 Siraight’ line to the top Bt center front. C= for shoulder dart, swing up- er part of front’ tow thin Wier7aF cot tes Tine. um For double-breasted fran add $¥to center front, bein ing Ving (7 above thé valet ine. "From that pornty raw the rolling Tine, ae. "hown by'dotted' Tine, Stopping |* aeay from neck'at shoulder. Fold paper on rolling tines then trace neck, cantor fronts and) part of shoulder, a Shown’ by dotted’ linese Draft the aotch collar and ravers, ucing the sane ethod and directions as given for the:notch collar of Single breasted jacket, Gotted Tines. wt This diagram shows front and vader collar separated. Dotted Tine indieates the rolling. Tine. ct | wt For upper collar, trace unéer collar 1/8* wider. For front facing, trace front, aking facing 1* vide at’ shoulderand 4" wide at waistline and lower edge. Draw a vaist dart in front 10° long, 5° above and 5 below waistline, and 4* from side sean. Complete jacket’ draft by tracing the back foundat ion; then “draw new center back lines and neck dart as Tor | the single breacted jackets Divide the tack Into. two, sections, and reduce at waict- Tine, a6 Indicated in”the di agra Lengihen jacket; then mark position for pockets. te This diagram shors the outline of the pattern pieces traced. from the drafts i e | Curve the sean lines of the back sections at the corners, nearsthe arehole.JACKET WITH SHAWL COLLAR n yyoen COWAR vat ry Save HIND ra Hlusteation shons jacket fastened with Tink buttons at waistline, Collar has 1-1/8" stand at center Backs and * stand at shoulder Seams Upper coltar and, frost facing are in’ene piece, with sean at center backs \ Jacket ie a7 pore style. t Using. the jacket foundation, mark posigion for sean in (rdht, tron Phoulder to Breast, polot;theh draw lo a'°straight tine at center frent, as shown by dotted line. u Swing upper part of front to with= PnP Be oF dotted Ine, pivoting af breast’ point; then’ trace. ur raw the colling Ling fron waist Tine upy beginging at center front and stopping.” away fron neck at Shoulder seam W Fold paver on rolling line; then Trace heck, center front, and part BP Shoutieg “G3 Snotn” by "aotee Draft the shawl collar fron A to TrAlSing the save nethod aid dinen= Mons 'a8 for the noteh col lar; then Gontinue as follows: D tod = Draw a straight Line from Oto J, Toast Ie HW to = Draw a slightly curved ine passing through point J. " Fold, paper on rolling line ané trace revers to complete Front. va This diagram shone under collar and front separated with the'rolting'tine indicating the stand in collar. wn _ for facing and upper collar in one, place under collar to Reckedae “of front. ang trace, making facing (* wide at Shoulder, and S* mide at lower edge. a This diagram shows upper collar and facing in of Facing must, be lengthened ta correspond with the front VEngth, as shown in giagran Xe x Complete the draft by tracing back foundation to the front SOR Shao Seans even; then divide back” and front into 4 Sections se fol lows: For back, square a line across at bust line {roa center Tae Ehén draw a stralgne tine “from bustline’ to Nip, At WC’ center back, and fron. buetline to shoulder, 2-1/4" Thom necks Reduce ‘shoulder “I/4* to nothing, 4*' | below shoulder- for front, draw a straight line fron breast point to hip, SP" fron canter’ front. For semi-fittod jacket, reduce at walstiine 1/2" each side EP ateaight line to, nothing at duct and hiptines; then Pengthen as Indicated. a Inside view of ualined jacket.JACKET WITH PEPLUM, ETON AND BOLERO WOVE GIN Ww BOLERO JACKET WITH FEPLUM Hlugtration shows jack- at with yore and invert= 24 pleat’ in back. Wark posi tian forseam ia Front atove breast point as shown by dotted Lines. Frace Sack? then draw new genter back tines. Make feck dart in bath. Reduce at waistline. n ‘Suing upper part of front to nithin 1B of straint dotted Tine: then trace. Divide front into two parts below breast goin; Then resuce at waist! ines Draft yoke in back and reduce st waistline. nn Add 1" to contgr front, fang lengthen 1/3" at cen ter front. Mgke a straight collar Bi nide “and the Tenath oF the neck ines Ww For poolum, separate at waistiinesthen Join see Eons and Fo for front Bepla, and sections. "G Gnd "for back. pepiun Reduce, backof jacket at waistline by joining seo~ tions and’ Tn one. For inverted pleat, ade about 2 at center backs ETON JACKET ‘An fton style is a short Jacket abaut waist Tength, mith sleeves. It say bo Eingle or double beoastea Oras. Titustrateds It Gin also Bo nade With 2 1 Mark posi tion fer shou!— der. darts in front and back. o Swing swper part of Front towithin 172" of center Front dotted” Ines then draft Fevers. 1 Trace revers to complete Front, Hee Shortte, front and back at waisttines BoLEro A Bolero style is, as rule, a stepvetess,"par= inant’ usually the Len of ai Eton Jacket, Itele cottarteseand te Front The draft shows front of Eton with dotted ling Ine dlesting the gutl ine, for @ Bolero front. “the back for, Bolero and Eton Ts alTnes 2 [iACKET wire PERL] Yaz BOLERO.COAT DRAFTING. ‘CENTER FRONT UUtustration shows. coat wth it beak brineckiing. Steve nas Garts at top of cape ita DRAFT OF COAT I Using the coat foundation as a guide, ai- Vide FROAT into tno parts as fol lows! A to B - Equals front shoulder. A to C - Equass nalf of shoulder. C to D - Draw straight line fro point C tb top of dart. Divide BACK into two parts as fol bone: E to F% Equals A to C on front shoul= aces F to G~ Draw straignt tine from point F to top of dart. F to H ~ Equals nalf of tine FG. 1 to J = Equals B to Con froat shoulder. J to H ~ Connect. For a1" higher neckline draft as fol lows: FRONT A to K = Draw a straight Hine from A to K. A to L= 1%, Square from line Ack at A. K toM- 1". Square fro bine AK at K than draw’ a curved Tine frou L tol, parallel to. the neckline, a8 shown In dlagras TT, = A Yea eh CENTER FRONT BACK. to = It, Contique center back line bp) Wto Be Eto P- 1%, Be cure that the distance frig P'to G oquals to N, less 1728," then draw a curved’ line froa‘e to'P, parallel to neck= Mine n Slach FRONT from shoulder C to point D, {hen close up front dart as |i lustrated: Continue lings dows Setow hipline to re- Quired length, as shown oy dotted ines. For arsin lines,nark arrows on SIDE sece than8 By" squaring from the hipline, mu For overlap on FRONT, ada. to center fronts Se shown ty otted Iiner, then aark pos!~ tion for buttons and tuitonmotes. Make facing sections for front and neck, ie. shown by dotted tines, SLEEVE DRAFT I Trace coat sieeve foundation; then draw Slasn “Tines ae shows by otted Vines. Wark ssctione A to Fe TL and 10 Slash cap on dotted Lines, and spreud sec~ thong Se illustrated, faising sections & jo Eat center sbout’t") and cpread even Ty at°top for the 4 darts, Deaw V-shaped darts about I* long. To complete "the patter, add seams in Seat and sieeve, alo add nous at Lower 2099; then make’ corresponding notces. CENTER BACK / The cutting dlagran below shows how to lay tne pattern pieces of size I¢ or 16 on 54" nap material» SpE FRONT ‘Beivenses| [rlugteations sine Jingle. breasted Bon’ Coat with Jagtch ol lary 2 | AAIST_uINE| DRAFT OF 60x COAT pack 3 INOW HIND HP UINE Bete atesves, Figs pockets and feat fa°baek. | 2, weet 2 vit BLA ae v ‘ 4 \ oT Ne g lg ont wack iB Waist UNE _k P_UNE INOW SIND] DHE \ be Separate t 1 “ 1 1 1 mu DRAFT OF COAT 1 Trace front, and back of coat foundation: then shift side seas toward back, In1/2" tina reenter front. tine wp a5 Shown by dotted jine, For shavle eder"aart, eying. “usoer part of Front. to” mithia 1/2" of dotted Hee as. shown fn" diagean TI. ‘ | Mark shoulder dart tine: then, con- Increase pack shovtder dart from W248 to 9/4 98 shown in diagram MIT. 0 front and back at new Side seam line and trace each about “BMaparts then draft coat 42" Tength agaiag at Back for ventyand addin tor front fof, Front closing, a9 shown by dotted lines. Draw fol= Tina’ Line for rovers: IE Reverse neck and center front Tine,and draft Fevers.and-naten eal iar as doscrived for "acvat With aoteh esl iae'y but ake. cot Tar” 32172*wige St center peck, and Being. shoulder point, Hee” Gtay "from nace instead of 1/4) Trace revers to conplete front Ww \, Make facing for front 1* wide at \ shoulder ang 4 wide. from revers fo. votton. MaKe Upper collar at Teast 1/8" wider than under col tare y Mark position for pocket and Hap. had. sean allowanes in pat tern'sections, and a hem at bot teat “then axe” corresponding notenes. The insert in the graft containg cutting diagras, showing size 14 -7or, 1G! pattern’ fetd. "on BA" 099 DRAFT OF SLEEVE (2-PIECED W Trace coat ,sieave foundation: ther" Slash’ trom Sottam to el bak ft, and goraad [at botton a6 Show in‘diagran YI" ¥ Givi, sheave, in 2 porte; then Grav glash line aeraes ean 1-1/0" from top. ver Slash fro center to sides and Spread 1°" tor broader shoulder otreet, at Allow seaus and make correspond- ing’ notches, afiela Style Coat, single oreasted, ith fateh eal lar, Safece shaped sleevas, patch pockets; and’ vent in back: sy noes Py gouae Cm MBs teres show Chest RAFT OF SiMI-FITTED COAT (CHESTERFIELD STYLE) B DRAFT OF COAT : eis, diseh deena Bak Mark shoulder dart line: then, eontjaue center. front Tine up ae show by dotted Tine, for shoulder dart, s¥ing yaper Bars of front’ to within l/etot fatted Line 98 show in dh aprantl- inereasetack shorlcer dart {ron SEES 3/895 Bom in laren Tt. Wake an eval shapes waist dart in front-as. tngieatod, ree coug NOH BIND] At BACK Gontinge copter back ine dove, or engin: then re ey [PL-cwal etl iney a shown ty dotted lines. for side dact in front, first Gtde Slash Tine trop" armbole at Side, to. nipline St from side: 1 then'slaah ana spread (and nah {the V-shaped Bart es Shown in \. dlagran TT. \ 0 Separate front and back at new zx} Side sean Tine and spread sec St thon about 4! apart then arate \, coal to tnttm, reducing a/4t at \. each ‘Side-aean of nai stting, Sd ng’ S*vent ab lower center backyand adling at centar front afor Front closing, as shown by gpited Tines.Oraw’ rotting Tine 1 For rovers and match collar, use Sane 'method of drafting 38 de= Serived for the box coats Ww Make facine anda shown by dottee Draw slash line far neck dart from breast point te neck, 72" fron “tolling. ines ther Slash and" spread tor nec dart by cloo- ing a syatder dart as shown. 1m Glagran 7. Draw Vashaped dartO* Tonge Soe GND are positions for paten socket nd pocket walt. Add, seam allowance ig pattern Sections" and a hes 34 bottont then sake corvesponding natenes | ine, insert in draft, contains qdiagtae; showing this pattern fnvsize’ itor [8 fate DRAFT OF 2~PIECE SHAPED SLEEVE UPPER SLEEVE UNDER SLEEVE “ Draft coat sieeve as shown in Graft of coat foundation, O12- an TIT; then shape sheave be- | low" eldew 1in0, 1-1/2" toyard Frant’as shown by dotted Tinos. vu Dotted Hines Show position for under sleeve seams. ihe exten Stan at lower back edge t8 for the’ placket. WUT and 1x Conplete the upper sleeve sec~ tion by tracing the front and | Back parts as Indicated, x Alloy seas, and ake corres pond¥ng notches.CORT COLLAR ORAFTING (2 STYLES) 6 (OAT WITH DEEP NOTCH ODLLAR Illustrations show coat with a'wiaer” coltar than Yhe regular noteh collar, The collar has a 1-1/2" Standat center back: 1" Stand at shoulder, = 1 4 Back OF COLLAR AtoB=a biog: & £5 E = connect. 3} | Biers eamis'c to € plus 1/48, \ f tor Gray 2 curved o| 1 FRONT ROLLING LINE Form shoulder dacty then State dublesbreasted Front, and draw rolling Tine, as Shown by Sotted lines: nr Fold on rolling line and {race “neck. and. center Front. w Agply back of collar to font, aa shown by dotted Draft front part of col- lar and’ fevers, usiag the sone method a8 for) the notch collar (page 04). a ce rovers to complete 1 the fronts INOW THINS COAT WITH REGULAR, NOTCH GOLLAR! "AND: HIGH REVERS Hlustration shows coat With notch col lary having Tei7e" "Stang at’ center back, and | etand at. shoul dere This collar is, siaitar to the” Tacket nateh"col far, the difference being. Ii the “ease al owanee when ararcing” the baak ofthe collar {see explanation. an bage'é4, dotall TW). Since coat materiais are sual ty very heavy, there 12%, conpared to the i/t YP ays ease. allonanee for the Jacket notch col tare Tand i Using the coat, foundation, first make shoulder dart In’ front, a Tlluetrated. i and Nake frost wider, draw rolling line, and trace nec and’ center fronts . : - Draft notch collar and revers, using the sane method given for the regular noteh edliar draft, but accord: ng’ to. the measurements given in this dl aor Note the 3/4" atlovance for ease at shoulder. Back of collar is 3-12" wide, or |=172" for the stan and 2* for the outer part. alle ee 1 Trace revers a5 Illustrated, to complate the front.COAT WITH SHAWL COLLAR pricey si AR Ww pe SHARC COLNAGKT OMTS TNT DARTS BACK Hlustration, shows ool lar with a 3* strd in backs the darts. In Back cause the co! lar Xo stand anay fron the eck. Thig is. geces~ fary because of the Bigh stanas 1 andgt Using the exat founda. Vionsdratt the shout der dart. in Tronty as WFiustrated. ttt and 1 Nake front wider bo~ low waistline. and draw rolling’. line, then Hace neck and center ‘ iat, | sxok oF ota | A to B - 6 ¢ B to G = 3-Li2%, € to 9 = connect. Z B to = Equals cto D'plus 1/4. | D to € = Draw'a curv | C ee tin Ww Apply back of | collar tb) Tront ae chown By dotted Tine. ur Draft front part of } ‘collar ana rovers ue fg the: same method ae shown for the Jacket Sha! collar toages!). vat Trace rovers to complete,the front. ie E Mark the position for the darts, as shown by aottea lines, x Spread collar sections; then dray V-shaped lines Yor darts. SwAWL COLLAR WITH SEPARATE COLLAR "STAND lystration shoe cost wth necks dart dn Font, andcoftar with a' separate stand. This collar is cut in lwo parts, to allow the outer part te ba" cue Th'fur'ang “the stand in waters. This le. %. prevent gin irritation soges tines. “Caused by fur fubSing™ agsinst the seeks Xe and nit These diagrans show how to draft the neck < darts \ e 11 and 119 | for senarate col ar Stange et through fatltho “Tine; then Ghose” the darts “and irsee stand” In one piece.Te (COAT ITH SHAWL COLLAR ” SHAWL COLLAR HLTH DARTS. PTET Gag 1 lustration, shexs oo lar witha 3 stand In backs The darts, in Back cause the collar to stand aay. fron the Rect, This is neces Bary "because of the fitah stand. Tangit Using. the ent founda tlonydratt the shout Ger dart in front, as Thustrated. m1 and 1¥ ake front, wider be- tow walstl ine. and draw ratings tine; thon Erace’ Neck and’ center Front. Back OF COLLAR Ato B- ot. Biee> Si E {0 6 = Connect, BABE - Ewalsé to Bietue Tyas D to ~ Drawa curve ea Tines " Apply back of | collar 12 Front as shown by Sete tines. a Draft front part of collar and revers,us~ fno. thersase method as shown “Yor the Jacket shawl collar (page6i. wu Trate revers to complete,the front. i Mark the position for the darts, as shown by dotted liness x Spread collar sections: then draw V-shaved lines for darts. SHAM COLLAR MILT SEPARATE: COLLAR STAND Illustration shays erat with neck: dart in Front,and'col tae with a" Separate stang. This collar is cut in ‘tuo: parts to alton the outer part to be" cut In fur'and the stand in material. This io to prevent shin irel tation some= eg “caused by fur rubbing againet the a xr NECK DART 8 and am These “diagrams show how to dralt the neck dares ttt and wv for separate collar } stands Peat '® through rolliia “Vines then | /couar| E ‘STAND Glose’'the darts ‘and eectSLEEVE (COAT RAGLAN SLEEVES RAGLAN SLEEVE LTH SHOULOER DART Using the coat foundation of the front, Back and Sleeve shift the shoulder Sean. Torward 174". Also Shift the shoulder notch on the sieeve toward” the Front, 1/8 n Draft the raglan_arthole Vines ‘on the “Front and Bucky a8 show by "dotted Mark “dots on front, and back part” of the sleeve ap to correspond with the ots on the aranole. ut ce gry hg atl ate ese Sea hy Re Reread Hate Rosatile lier te 2 ah Senet itn ne a Se RP See eaite 1 Sina tae otence ttn dl das sey etiet ets iP e W Allow seams and mark cor- responding notches. TWO-PIECE RAGLAN SLEEVE ¥ and WE The method of waking this Sleeves is to divide the dart steove in. two parte, 8 \shown by dotted Vines! The al lonance under the arn say be given to. an Eleeve whieh vs ade for ihe’ deoper armholes The amount to be added at the “fop"ot the tnderars ‘sean depends on the depth ofthe armole’ of “taments For‘ examples For 1" deeper armhole, STiow I+ “to’the inderara Tength of the sieeve, sae Hilistrated,” Fore 121/35 Seaper armhole, add 1-1 725 Allow gears and mark cor= responding aotches, 8 SLEEVE. ‘iT sHBULDER DART 2-PI EOE AGLAW SLEEVEDRAFT OF 1000 AND CAPE oR TO DRAFT THE HOOD PATTERN Sketch shows how to take ‘Head Height™ measucenent. Other views, show Hoos faced with contrast. nin Hood’ nasa 2:turn back at top of front, and 2 pfeat at each side of neckedge Bse'the back foundation, cize 16, to draft the hood. 1 . Extend center back Vine up, 2°. Atow- 2 Btoc- Be. (Back of Neck) 0 to B ~ Draw Tine’ fron point C.to'D_at armhole. € to € ~ Equals 4” (Front of Neck). Seuare a Tine Up from Line Gr; then cofinect £*t0 D. @ to F~ Eeuale 14" (uead Height, plus 4*) F to G = 8" (Aerose back Measurement, plus’ I"). “G 10 B= Connect. 1 F to ll - Equals 2" (allovance for back of head). & fo | = Eaals 2" lextension for turn Sack)~ D to) = Eqate 1°. Thon connect. fron f' tod to |. E to B = braw curved neckline. for Mood H 0B > Connect ut For pleat at shoulder, draw slach tine fro ¢ to 4, Then aark point X in center of Tine Cel,” and point Un center of ine Ext. Siaeh fron © 6 tyand. fron K tof." then spread 2° at'C for the pleat, "as. shown tn giagran Iv. if preferred, a dart or gathers may be used instead ot the pleat: 1 Ad seans and mack pleat lines 2° long. HOW TO DRAFT THE CAPE PATTERN \Mustration shows cape with shoulder gart fitting ang with miniaun aweep at lower ‘edge (60" sweep, and-42” length for size 16) Use the drese foundation as a guide to draft the cape. 1 and back about 12"/apart; then make shoulder dart Trace, fron A'tog. Square a fine acrose fron center back to arhole. {oC = Equals (/4 of fine A-Bs (allowance for ease over the ara). {OE > Envals line ® to Gs " F to.G~ 42%. (Length af Cape) "Extend center back tine down to 6 & toll - Eovais. 15% C174 of GO" sweeD), Square this line across at G. R fo C= Connect; then draw 9 curved tine tron shoulder to point C H fo (2 Equals 1/2 of fine HG. Sevare Tine to point | fren line Ci, 140 k= Equal Hl to G; then locate polat Land conplete draft of front. nL Add seams and make corresponding fetches. Heke shoulder cart 2* shorter. 11R-PIECE CIRCULAR CAPE i Llustrations below, show plain, 2-piece cir~ cular cape about 374 fength, 40* from back of eck’ to: bottom, of waist a3 a guide, as. follows: 1 A to B ~ Square tine across, fron center back tb araholer © to.D~ Draw line from arahole to center front, parallel to warstline. 0 Place front, ang pack so that, shoulders see al-armhole, having the space between and eo Bait *OP A eotb. "Pants space represente™ the e ainimun amount for any atvis cape) Oraw slightly curved line between & and C. m E to F - Represents, reayired cape length at contor back (40" for this dratth. D to G ~ Equals & to F. WH" = Conter between 8 and C. I to J = Draw tine through H, making H to J equal A'to Fe F to G~ Draw circular line through J... (This Ting {s\paraliel to line A to 8 to fH to°6 to Bie ., w \ for a cang lees clroular at foyer, edge, ra: - dice at 'F to nothing at livon front. and’ bec! by Ss°shown on the inside sotted Ines. For additional fulness in cape, add at J to nothing at shoulder point I, as'shown by the oe autside dotted lines.CENTER BACK CIRCULAR CAPE (SOUARE SHOULDER DESIGN) 82 Lslustrations below show cape with § shoulder tarts. The cape is about 32* Tongs The, pattern is so cut that it provides the extra fulness for the Square shouldered effects 1 Using the fitted waist, foundation, trace front and back, with shoulder to Soules, "and neckline eveny then shift * shou Ider tine forward 1/2*" for now shoulder Tine as shown By dotted tine Draft yoke 3* wide at center front, 3-1/2" at center back, and 4-788 at Shoulder sean 7 1 Draft the dart fines a6 fol lows: First draw a curved line between araholes, 3" below the yoko line; thon draw tho dart lines. It apart at the yoke. And I-1748 gnarteat the lower curved {ines nr Draw a squared line at the upper left corner. Then cut out front and back’ in ona piece (including the extended Section for tho darts). Before placing front and back against the squared line, slash along “shaulder'lne and {nto the yoxes then con” Line to°slash “covn each dart lines Place front and back carefully against the squared lines, raking oqual size. spaces for" “darts; ‘then. trace ae. Tf= Tustrated. Draw a circular line from center back to center front “along ust ‘Tine, and” 4" Below dart section at side, 38 Shown by dotted Tine. This “cireviae Tine’ serves as a Guide line for drawing the lower edge cape lines Ww Diagram shows draft of cape 32% long Hine paraltel tothe cirevlar guide line. For additional puff, add to top of darts:as shown by aatted tines Instead of darts, cape may be made with pleats or shirring al shoulders For a cape with less fulness at bottom, reduce about 4* each side of Sido eam, lth lover circular”(Showing method of grading size 16 to Is) GRADING Is the art of increasing or decreasing 4 sample’ size pattern proportionstely, secording to the Standard body measurenent The method of grading a pattern from one size to. an- other is’ by “shifting the pattere proce fron point to Point, tracing each step as you go slong. The, instructions for grading the cattern as shown on Ells “page, is nerel fundamental, and should serve as. basis For'grading style patterns: NOTE: Many manufacturers grade the width of front ond back only” 3/8" “instead of 1/24, from c HOW TO GRADE THE BACK Gir oe eeu ain Yr, Wy tify Shift patter out 1/at and. trace fron C to Ds ‘Then mark corner at fotnt 0 TF PRY OF GLE ome Y & 8 Shift pattera down 1/3", tracing. armhole. fron. b {SE and sarking pol nt €, about"2* above bust Tine. Wy. Gif) Yi V7 _ WAR 3 YW j Yj Next shift pattern out IB" keeping Senter beck of pattern, parallel to Tine” ABs" then trace corter at point C. i ' ' 1 ' 1 : i i i 1 1 Shift pattern out 1/4", ang trace armhole. From to Fithen trace corner at point Shift pattern In 1/2" | showing mere ana_ how and trate fron Gt Ayto | ftoch pateern’ was" graded tonntone che dradee Diagram, also. shons how toVorade waistline “of Bactern hab has a waist Shift pattern down, 7a" and trace. from f'to G; then Erace ‘corner at 1 rt Ts,2age the front, use vig ~ fane ethod of ‘shitting ; auch pattern was graded Battern os stow for grads i ng, the backy"except the | laeram also. shoxs how 1 1 1 Showing where and how 1 feck, "which Ie 'qraded in | to. arade” waistline ‘of nttasr '* ereded Ia L To grade, tne sleove, use Sane. “nethos of shifting Pattern tas’ Stow | for grasa the any rent vepineing {coe tnen 8 t0"e, ‘eke Stoning, where and, tox no" s| eeve pattern was graded’ fron size 16 og th pattern that has a waist The elbow dart romaine Sar the sane Tor all Sizes" we GRADING wisses sizes a |0 8s ‘2-PIEGE BACK oe +e we ts tht ie Me ie \| Ye GRADING SIZE 96 ta (ladies! sizes) es Tho grade frog 36 to 98 ig vecy uch the sane as the grade trom 16 to 18, the diftecence bes tho.an, extra grade in the front over: the: Bust, fron shoulder seem to waistiine.Tuis grade, 12 Feqired forthe Tadles! sizes only Wether the front has a side dart, shoulder dart or waist dart fitting,the extra grade of 178* Shoufd’be™ “given as Shown tn these di orans: The ladies! "sizes roprasont, the nature figures, and therefore the Front pattern requires the extra grade (1/8*) Inthe dart for each sizes The underarm length of the waist and sleeve remains the sane for ail ladles’ sizes. The grade’ in the armholo and in te steve cap is'sanevhat’ greater than in the misses! sizes The orade from 98 to 40 ang from 4) to 42,ete isthe some as Tron 36. to" 58 GRADE OF PATTERN WITH SIDE DART IN FRONT Chart shows where and how much pattern is in~ Sreased tron 38. to 48. The extra grade of 1/8" over the bust in- creases the size of the sige dart,” This alea Drovides. the necessary” grade. of 9/8". trom Ghoulder, to waistline, there “beino t/IGt at the shoulder’ then the neeeisralgad. 1/16"), S)igt at the afaholeyand 1/8" at the bust! ind, The Sleeve grade at, the wrist is halt pf the bicep grades ror instance: The grado at vices is 1/24; at the wrist 1/44. This principle al~ £5 appl ies to the grade of sieeve’ in the mise= GRADE OF SHOULDER DART, AIST DART, ete. Chart shows method of grading front pattern vith shoulder dart or yale! dart. fitting, tale Ing the” increase. of 8/8! from ahovldse to walstline,and ineroasing the size of the dart Teter gach sizer Chart alse shows where and how seh the two: piece back 13 inetessed from 38 to 39. GRADE OF 4-PIECE PATTERN WITH 2-PIECE SLEEVE Apply the sane wethod In grading the 2-plece front asin'grading the shoulder dart front. The grade of the 2piece back is similar ta the grade of the pack “sections fn tha above charke The entire 1/8* shoulder orade is applied to the Side'Section of front And back. The increase of the 2-piace sluwe is the same as one-piece Sleeve shown in the chart stovesGRADING SIZE 18 (nisses') to 98 (ladies! size} The grade fron 18 to 36 is very much the cane faa the grade from 36 to ai, the differences be- Tng.an extra tie" grade in’ the waist length: This makes the bach about 1/2* longer wars ted ang’ ther front 876" Tonger’ from "shooTder to Mhether the front has a sige dart, shouider dart of waisttdart fTtting,the extes grade of 18% Should’ bo given across the bust,ae show inthe charts af Ladies! grade 36 to" a The ladies! size 96 i the mature figuee and Werotore requires this. ektra grade lever the GRADE FROM 18 to 36 Chart shows where, and how much pattern ic Vngreased fron 16 to ab. The. extra grade of Ua" Tneteases, the size of the Sidedartethis, algo provides the necessary grade of 5/8". Irom Grovlger to waistline in the front, there oe ing I/1gr at"ehgulder, (when. the neck Ira se'i/i6*), 3/6" atthe armhole, 17a" at. the etline," and 1/4¥ betweun the'aart and the The sleqe grade ie very such the cane as. from I8'to 1d, the difference belag s/ie* grade in the reap height’ instead or I/B%. ASSN GRADING 16 (regular) to 16 {half size) The difference between the regular and the halfosize. figures. is mainly Inthe height, the Feqylarsizo figure meacuring 8 tect 7" of 8° Fntheight, and the half siza-about 6 feet 3. Garnents designed for the shorter women (trade fera is half sizes) ace made about 3" shorter than ‘the parents” for "the standard regular sizeg; that fe |* shorter above the Waistline and 2! shorter below the hips The Nip of the half size Figure is about 1* to 24 Targer,ana the waistline about (* arg Gr, than the copular size figure. The arm ts about 1? shorter. GRADE FROM REGULAR TO NALF SIZE Chart shows where and how auch pattern is orad~ fed fron regular to hat size. This agthod may dg applied to grading patterns Fron 16.0 161, 36 Soaehy or 13°to1 18h. ror instance; Ifa'siyie is. designed inthe. regular infases's lagiest’or Junior sizes, andthe pane Style miy be suitable fer eorter women a halt Size pattern, 1s. then made by grading trom the Feaular to tho half-size, making the pattern shorter report ionately,aod larger, in the hip and waistline, ae shown’ in this chart. Once the half size’ is established, the pattera ay Gey graied to" the OtNer requ fed sizes as. fol for the aigges! half sizes, U4, 16, For the Todtess Rat Sizes: 6? al dy alt ote: For the juniors! half sizess ih, 1bUc1/S ete: 18, ete ‘The method of grading the pattern from 164 to Teh "or Seb tel s8, "or 13% ta TOE, je the same ag the grade from 16 to 18, 36 toa or 13 to 15, ‘respectively.GRADING 13 to 15, (juntor sizes) AND 8 to 10 (girls! sizes) 86 GRADING OF JUNIOR SIZES The junior clzee range fron 11 to 17, or 11 ‘Senet ines certain junior styles are mode In sizes 8 to I? or I to 13, ete. hen grading a pattern from size 13 to 15, use sane Unethod of shifting pattern from one’ point fe" another « ae shown von the grading page Tor nieces! izes 16 to 1d. The gage from size 19 tol! is the same as Frow 13°05 The grage from 11 to is not a full grade (stout’S/4 of the grade fron 1a'to 1)). ‘SHOWING GRADING POSITION ON PATTERN This chart shoes where and how much pattern is graded tron 13" to" 15 for, a shapes steaver grade, length of sieeve in 2 places, above and below the elbow as shown on the misses! grading page. Note: Meny manufacturers grade the wicth of Front and” back only 3/8" instead of 2" from Genter front or back to side sean. in this ease, the grade cule be i/e* for the neck, 1/16" for the Shoulder and’ 3/16" fron arahote. to side sean, GRADING GIRLS" SIZES The oieIstelzes range fron 7 to 1 or conetines Tron? 7"to Tay (78 Weel ‘Styles for those sizes are aviteble for girls! oF pubtle'sehoot ages 4 ample ts veually mage in size 8. Sone aanu- Facturers make thelr 'senples In siz0 10. De The average increase in height for olris! sizes is-about S* tron size to l0,ete.; the average waist length (iron aeck to walstline) inerenses about 3/48 per clzo; the underarn steve fength about 3/4" per size. SHOWING GRADING POSITION ON PATTER This chart stows where ané how auch pattera is Graded tron size B't9 To. linen grading pattern fron one size to, another, ae" gape mothod of” shi feing pattern fron point sixes 16 fo 18 so eaeecate eect The skirt grade from center front to center Back Ts! the Sone as the orade of the basic: The arade of the skirt length is sbout 2* per The prade fron size 6 to'7 eouals half of the atade from slze 8 22°10.GRADING KIMOHO, RAGLAN AND DOWUAN SLEEVES KIMONO SLEEVE * Wea zai RAGLAN SLEEVE. DOLWAN SLEEVE 16 to 18 GRADING THE KIMONO SUE Ghart, shows how pattern is graded fron sire '1é'to 18. When grading the front and tack 1/4" Fongerstn- the waist, the Increase mist peitade near the top, ag ifustra tad. is gives the sleeve’ I/2" grade across the tops For' the ladies" sizes with shoylder of side darts, use “the sane method of rading thé darts as: show on the grade ron 3 toa. When grading a pattern for a loose fit- {ing Garment grate front and baex 3/85 éach “in"the’ width, ‘making. only |/8 Grade at the underata instead of 1/4", For junior sizes, use the sane method ‘9S veseribod below’ for Dolman slew. GRADING THE RAGLAN SLEEVE Chart shows the grado fron 16 to 18 for tho front, back and sleeve, Wher grading the raglan sleeve and the Glan armhole of the traat. and back, FIPIS" Enportan’ to "prada the corre’ sponding ancunts at {he correspond ing posit ionsy The anount used for with "the grade of B pattern. with. & Fegular arhole ang sel-In sleevos For instance; the total grado’ from neck. to weist of 18 told Is'S/a', or 13" at Shoulder, 1/8" at tha cap Sf the sleeve, and 1/8 "above and 178? Below the el Sows) | The width of the sleeve at the neck ré- aaing the Sane for ail sizes:The usual Grade inthe neck Is given in’ the front Bnd back only. grading must tally GRADING THE DOLMAN SLEEVE Chart ehone where and how nuch pattern Ts"graded fron size 18't0 [Bs Taste ofr ath fx soir (bao ats alt eras enter EEE phtgtt ie eade eee Ey fsshia oh REE S e For, the Junfor sizes, fron 13 to 1 15" to'T7, “ete. the grade isthe dane a8 shown'in thé chart, "the only diffe: fence being an extra grade of 1/1" ‘be- tween the'ammole and the waistline in front and “back sections, “this mould account for the t/2" grade in tho'mist Venath,betwean the'neek and the walst= For ladies' sizee,coe directions above for the kimono sieeve.SUGGS 00000000000000000000000000000000R0RsRsRsRensneueuensa: SKIRT GRADING, SIZE 16 to 18 an STE ay STE 2 STYLE 1 (2-P1ECE SKIRT) w a“ The increase from 16 to 18. is » My 2M around walet and hi, orte 3 {ros centar front to enter Beek, | Chart. shows hero and how auch pattern 13 increased fron. 16 PIB.” the Front. takes the | V2" rade in one shi ftyab ile tie beck grade “Ts @iviad. ine } to two shifts, as Vlustrate | ea. | STYLE 2 | Chart shows skirt pattern te four spetfont, and? it ‘also showe how such to grade each Section ‘tren’ one size" to another. It ig an ostablisned rvle that ‘the’ front and beck of apiece: skiet pattern ts. to bel graded only TE each and SBM Tor seh’ side section: | FRONT BACK Ove NGS CENTER FRONT SIYLE 3 Chart shows where and how auch ggtloen 1S graded trom 18 to pusing the-sane principle as'the grade for Style 2. hen grading the yoko parts | atthe front ‘and’ baok, they ust bo graded to correspond With the top part sf the ad= Joining’ side Section. sive 4 Chart shows 2-pieco skirt vith side yoke, graded “fron Te'to la Use the Sane method of divid ing the grate as shown in the grade of Style 2 It is advisable to keep the | lower “edges of the yore of | the graded sizes at the same angle as tho sample size. the Sane. applicg to the giant ing.eages of the front and Baek Ve GND ‘CENTER FRONT CENTER FRONT STYLE 6 omeee Grant shows groge of sige ae Font whieh {sin “3 parts, 4 te and’ skirt back with 2 farts: Chart also, shows where and Row much pattern is" ineraas= @danich foals 1 from con= | for"tront to conter backs | The 1/8" grade near the cen- | ter ‘Front ang baat, and tho balance at the side's in : t ably with’ the grok af tne 5 ‘stead Sette! = smee 5 chart shor gre of trousers z ore evidee Ree esate 18 totes The grade of the eroteh depth froa'walgtline to then fep sean 15 SM" This glade 1s made in tuo Shifts ag indi= Gated. ‘with arrows ta front and’ back. The waist and hip orade Is the sane-as for thevskirt,GRADING JACKET AND COAT PATTERNS - SIZE 16 to 18 PF osme 2APIECE SLEEVE # # 16 STILE @ STYLE | Chart shows where and how much Gacket, pattem 1s graded fron size 18%to 1s ' wereage of the under piven at the side of pecavce the underarm | Shifted toward the The antire Ar3 grate te “ont span had be: BEeh about 3%. The [3° ivided equally between the Upper ané under sleeve, wita the | Uaual eap grade in the ubper sieeve, | cage of the 2-piece sleeve The collar takes, the neck grade Of the Front and back. sTyLe 2 ' Chart shows peplum jacket graded From 16"t0 1Bs um does net grade in, tenath, Se ahem fading’ fa widths pat Tera’ must’ be. sui fted tn the al fection of the shape of the pico Asinclented wlthvarfows, The same ppplies to the! roher"sietve see= fea. The uvper sleeve takes the entire sleeve Tength grade, STYLE 3 Chart shows coat pattern fron 16 10 tee araded When, grading the circular part Df the front and back, pattern fust he shifted ia, the direction fev indicated™ on the” chart with the horizontal and vertical aust “corresgond with the Side sections. grade “oper The cuft grade aust correspond With the Fade of the lower part Dt the sl ae" HOLE; Many wap tgcturers, grade the. front aad back ine Meade] 1734 Meow concer tront Ore agh to, the ide sean Ho For closer Hitting garments, the" 28" grade is" prefectede rUNDERGARWENT DRAFTING ‘CENTER FRONT (Bra and Panties Foundation) i SHOULDER STRAP ay us PANTIES SELvEDGE BRA WITH TRIPLE BUST DARTS iL PANTIES WITH GUSSET 90 The'bral nich 1s an abbreviated brassiere, has the Uplift outline or the cup shape fitting, suitable for. the. misses and Jumior si figures Thig “bra'style has triple bust sarts, The panties are cut. on the bias and have gusset sections at loner part of front and backs 1 Use the hid Loneth dress foundation (ize fe) ao.0quide, Trace Front and back 20 waistline omlyy th Trace “the hl sections atout Below waistline: Mark sections Reo", "ts" Ii lusteateds Reduce 1/2* at side to nothing at Reduce 1/2" at omter, back waist lige tovtiothing at neck, and" to" 1/48 at hips Draw straight, Fchoulder. to Front and backs For panties, continue | ‘and Shape Ider’ edge, by dotted lines. Hine trom center top of "aset in 105 down iS shown ig Draft the'vra” as indicated by dottad ines; then aake shou lder Straps 2" wie For panties, reduce front 1* at waistiine. fo nothing at hip, by Slosinglup, trot art, thus, sortade ing bolow hips. \Reduse half of dat gt back” waistline (leaving 2'3/6¥ dart) WS'agthing at nine Soreading lower edge, as i1 use trated. Draft usget, sections at center front “and” shack, as shown by Gated Tines. um Cut out front and back, of the "brat sections; then bring A and'B to= gether and. 'D and E together, a8 Plustrated. For shoulder strap, join front and back sections Ih'one. For elastic. in back, cut off 2° frow center ‘back Of section for’ a at atrip of olasticn a5 shown’ in diagram 29, For a slash cup shaped fitting, Front potween Rand C, and spread (PR breast sotnts For the bust darts, mate the first aart 3° tong “and "1/3 the width OF tne spread at! lower edge. Make fehaining darts es shown in'diagran ‘ Allow geans and draw grain tines on'braP sections. © w Make the entire panties cate, then ‘wark’ slagh lines “3-17 Jong at center front and back’ for the’ gusset sections. Allow seans and make correspond- ing fotehes.LUNDERGARWENT ORAFTING ot T _sHOULDER STRAP —— ‘CENTER #ACK| (PP BRA FOUNDATION ¥ on ELASTIC un non Ulustration shove "bra*with and double bust pieatse Use the"brat foundation (page 1) as'a guide to orate ths sitions for panel sean and pleats ydotted lines, Mark segtians Cand Be front pane! 72, diagram ste. .8 Separate the panel section; then slash along, pleat lines, and. close un dart, Spreading for the 2 pleats. w Draw Viohaped | ines, instead of pleats: if darte are desired Allow for seams, ‘mark grain line, make" corresponding notches and [SHOULDER STRAP " Ze BRA FOUNDATION, is? ur ro oC BRA - STYLE 2 This style ‘bra’ has horizontal seam across front sections. Pattarn is so cut, that it gives the’bra® the cup shave Fittings | © 1 Use the brat Foundation as described a bove for Style te 0 Divide center front into 3 eval parts, Ged, @[ae sean To? qqual gartgy thon Fike Hees eatR Baas Fuel Ber EES th Sethe near oN aN Bese, tt Clove up dart between 8 and Ce ‘i Allow seaas In per and loner front sec ioe thee ‘aatlgnats tee ‘Seat sake 1 corresponding notches, 1 PANTIES WITH SEAM AT CENTER There are no side seans. 1 page 77, diagram ft) ao a guider together. tin back and ts) wl th td The panties ané gussets are in one. Use the panties foundation (shown on Trace front and back (including the spread below hip, as Illustrated, Round off corners along center front and” back “at gussets, as shown By dotted lines: For left side opening draw a 6* tine Mark grain line, allow for seams and make Eorresponding notes |UNDERGARMENT ORAFTING (Combination Style} CENTER FRONT SHOULDER STRAP SHOULDER STRAP \ 41 \lustration shows, brassiere with bust guibers,and panties mith gusset This garment is usual ly worn in Tace‘of a stip under a dress of feavict nateriat and is'abost. 3 Inger" than” the reguiatran panties engen. aieeteeer Uso tho hip length dress founda tion (Size 16) a5 a guide, Roduce 1/2" at side to nothing at Ripe Reduce 1/0" at eontor back waist! ine tounothing “at neck, and to 1a at hia. Draw stra ght line from center of shoulder to top of dart in front and’ back. For panties, continue lines down and shane lover edge, a5 Shown by dotted tines. 0 Draft, the brassiere os indicated by dotted (neg: then rake shout = dec’ strags 1/3* widecark” sections hot! (For cup shape fitting, stash ne- tween Rana’ ‘ana spfead it at breast point, as"thown on page 7, aisgran iv. a Soparate tho brassiere sections. in Tront and Backs then close up the Front dart” between Aland: B,” and continue lover. seam Tine t0'side, Ss"shown by "dotted Line. Bring sections F and F together tn complete back. For panties, bring sections ¢ and D together. Tang Gand # together, above the ipline, ‘spreading see” tions below hip'ad illustrated. Draft gusset, sections at center {font ahd back,as shown by dotted ake. the entire orasslere and panties pattora; then mark slagh tines at Tovar odgo of center front. and back for gusset sections. Allow seans, mark grain lines and ake corresponding notches:SHOULDER STRAP | Tle Sip Use the hip fenath dress foundation {size 16), 28 a guide: then reduce’ |/2" at cide to nothing at hip, and 1/2" at Genter Back waretline to nothing at neck and to (74 at hip. | Draw straight, inter of shoulder to top of dart 3Ove BIND STV | i In front and back; then draft bragsiore, as shown by dotted Hines and nak sections Ato Fr ” Separate the 3 front sections, and 2 back, sections as ilfustrated Eldaing yp front dart between A and Bjthen wark the position for the 2ploats in section a. ut and 18 Slash along the 2 pleat tines; then close up waist dart, Spreading evenly for’ the 2 pleats. Allow seams, mark grain lines and nake corresconding notches, This, style brassiere extends about 3 below the waistline, and fastens to. the foundation or Corset, {9 Rold the brassiere in position. a . S— SHOULDER STRAP - nN co 7 ‘SHOULDER STRAP FRONT ‘SECTIONS BIND [CENTER FRONT. = UPPER FRONT SECTIONS: Use the grace foundation (size 16) to waistline only: then reduce 1/2 at side seam, and 1/2"at center back walstline to nothing at neck. Draw straight line from centor of shoulder to, top of dart in front-and back, and. make shoyldor strap |/2" wide. Draft brassiere as shown by dotted lines and'nark sections A to C. 11 Close up front dart petwgen A and B, and bring section D and E'fogether, and F and G'togotner, aé illustrated. a and TV For cup shape fitting, slash between A and Cand spread 1* At breast point; then’ draw V-shaped lines for dart. Draw the horizontal seam line as shown by dotted line; then This style brassiere is suitable for ladies and Separate as shown in diagram 1", nleses Sizes, and extends to 1-1/2" above. the . STYLE 2 Mark grain Vines, add seans and nake corresponding notches.STRAIGHT SLIP DRAFT a (For Undergarnent Drafting, See Pages 85 to &8) GO) wove WIND Illustrations show slip with pointed ge Straight upper edge out line Front.nas 2 side darts for fitting, over the busts he lengthwise darts in front and back the garment a closer Titting waist Trace front and pack dress foundation: + ther'reduce T/2" at side to nothing Now Draw straight line from center of shoulder to'top of dart in front and ba Draw side dart lines, as illustrates. an Oraw tower neck and arshole lines, as shown by dotted Tines, making shoslder strap BF Tong in front and 6 long in Back. Slash along side dart lines; then Glose up front'dart to straighten cone fer front Tines i Dray V-shaped (ines, 3* long, for each side dart. is | Continue straight lines down to re- quired fength and ‘shape’ Botton, ae Shown by dotted ines: For straight we cige out! ine, square Une acroge, fron cer ft and ache making underara sean a Iletle highet ssi Tustrateas : Allow seams on’ all edges but center Front and back. w Diagram below shows cutting layout, for straight slip: : The bias steios are for underfacing the neck and arehale edges. FOLD OF MATERIALSLIP DRAFT SHOULDER STRAP Breast pernt “GiOr Tove WIND 96 Hiusteation ehoys, princess siip,vith hecki fre about 6" lowor at canter’ front and'7* lower. at center back; armhote Te. 2 abeper than dress’ araholo. 1 sing the dress {hip length) found: ‘asa guide, trace trent and bac Track the’ dartss Draw straight line from center of shoglder tovtop of earl in front and back. ark sections 8,e,C,D and Es + Reduce width of front’ and” back 1/24 At bust and watet to nothing at lp fas shown by dotted Ines. u Wake neckline Q* lower in front and Faower th back. Draw agahole.t=1 2" Geepers ake “shoulder steap 4* long fe°Proat and 4* long. 10 back. Cut out front and back sections, and Sébarate’ thea ae shown in diagram TTT Wate center front Line straight by SthSoing” octiens kiana B. togethers Coabine front and back part of shoul— ee strap in one. mm Trace the 4 sections, leaving, enougtt Toaee Yor the tower’ part ofthe alte BaEEdel Steaighe. | ines. down, to. rem Gofred fengths. dren. shape tottem, 3 Moun’ oy dotted tines, Draw arrows for grin lines by squaring iron hovine. For a eyp snage fi Lting aver the bust, Adg 1/4" co front sect; ong” at breast point; then subtract 14% 3* ‘below Breast polat,as shown by dotted vines. Shape voper part of side front, about V2" tonuras arahole, as fi tustiated. Complete pattern by-adding seas and Raking corresponding notches. " Diagram below shows how to tay pattern onthe” goods. The biag strips are for underfacing feck'and armhole edgess loner edge of slip say be finished with narrow hemeBIAS SLIP DRAFT a A diag slp bas aoveral savantages, Sone of mhich Tevdoes not require 2 placket at the left sidovuhien eliminates 2 sewing operation: {t molds better to the form around bust waist and hp, due to the ma teriai"being on the bias. I Trace {ront!and a ress founda front and back, a8 iTlustrated. FRONT uw SHOULDER STRAP 7 a Draw lower acekline and arshole, as shown by dotted tiness. then divide front and"backe ja"tgectons and ark then Ay 8, Cand Separate each gestion and close up front dact as shown in diagram 10! Nake shoulder Strap in one parts nm Trace the 4 sections on another sheet OF paper, allowing enaugh room for Gn entice front and back, as "shown by. dotted Hines. Markigrain ines and sake corres- ponding notet ‘ENTER FRONT SELVEDGE 2 FRONT eee ‘SELVEDGE, The cutting diagrax above shows how to lay bias slip pattern on the goods. If piecinas are required, they myst be laid on the sane lengthwise grain. The bias strips are for lower edge binding. The upper front and.back sections may be lined.DRAFT OF PAJAUA TOP ‘CENTER | Back. [| waist une me 7 Jacket ie loose fitting, and features double Shoufder tucks in front. It may be worn tucked in, oF over the trousers. Armhole ig slightly deeper, and sleeve is flat atitop of “cad, the'Sane ds’ the nonnish shir 1 Using the dress foundation ae 2 guide, draw siagh ines “for the tucks s6 indicated, Mark ons A,B and Co un tek lines, ane spread by closing up sno forging straignt center. vont Tine: wake dne "tuck 4" fokg and the other, $°3/ 4%" m Make shoulder 1/2" longer, arnhote 1/ Bnd make side wider am Indleates engthen jacket 1/2" boton hipline at center Back’ and sige, to I* at center fronts deeper, for «ftom closing overtan, aga 14 to center “frontsthen loner the neck f* at center front, ‘curving the outline ae indicated: Ww Wark, positions for buttons and guttonholes, 4° apart. Draft pocket 4-1/2" x 41/2" for facings. in front and back, draft as show by dotted lines, ‘Add seams and: hems; then make corresponding notches. DRAFT OF SLEEVE 1 Trace outline of jacket front, and mark soint & and'6 at side sesh ss indleated Locate polnt ¢ on side seam line by having A to Cequal’ i/3:0f Tine a - Bi then locate folst D st deepest part of arsholet about 2'fron side scan) then connect €'t0 0 Trace lover part of armhole ana upper part of gliet sean to Govgsite etae of fine C20 ae chown By"dotied ITnesrthen ware point £26 indicaved” u Bratt sleave as fol love: “AF to G = Equals overarm length. Draw this line Byveantinuing’shoutaer tine" “straight te arise _ G toH~ Equals 1/2 of wriet measure plus 21/2 HW to E~ Connect for underarm seam tine, ny Trace other hatt of sleeve to opposite side of Vine F5C'as chown by dotted lines. Ww Mako, tront part of sleeve cap 3/8" lower as Ine

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