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Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

October - November 2012 Including NORTHERN IRELANd HIgHLIgHTS & HIddEN gEMS

Whiskey a go-go Fright Nights

Drink in the citys best emporiums

Get spooked with Belfasts Halloween scene

Bangkok Belles

The Lady Boys are back in town amd were giving away tickets



Titanic in Belfast Where to stay
22 25 29 37 42 49


Restaurants & Cafs Nightlife What to see

Museums, parks and public art

Arriving & Basics
NI Railways & Metro Bus Map 5 8-10 11 14 16 18 20 21

West Belfast & Shankill

Falls and Walls

Culture & Events Halloween in Belfast Christmas in Belfast Sport & Leisure History Belfasts Quarters

NI Highlights & Hidden Gems Derry/Londonderry Shopping Maps & Street Index
Northern Ireland City Centre Greater Belfast Street Index

51 54 58

61 64-65 66 66

October - November 2012

Its come over all golden as we welcome autumns glossy glow. Nows the perfect time to head indoors and experience some of the citys finest emporiums. And by that we mean atmospheric inns, hip hostelries and beautiful bars all stocked with the best of beers, ales and whiskies. Flickering fires, traditional Irish music and achingly cool crowds complete the tourist-friendly scene. Flick to Nightlife (p.4) and find your own fave drinking den. Meanwhile, its the annual return of The Lady Boys of Bangkok wholl be pitching their extremely glamorous tent at Custom House Square for two weeks in November. Expect a flurry of fabulous outfits, sleek song and dance routines and lots of laughs. Find out more - and bag yourself a pair of tickets - on p.12. Before the grand dames arrival, prepare for some shocking sights and glittering lights as Halloween events take over town. Its candy apples ahoy on p.14. Then, whisper it, with the imminent arrival of Mr. S Claus, start embracing the festive season with the switching on of the citys Christmas Lights and arrival of City Halls ever popular Christmas Market. Jingle those bells on p.16. Belfast and NI Sightseeing highlights (from p.42 and p.51), including the opening of Crumlin Road Gaol (p.42) and a certain ship called Titanic (p.22), complete your autumnal extravaganza.

Arriving & BAsics

The World of In Your Pocket
Northern Ireland Ireland Estonia Latvia Lithuania Belarus Netherlands Poland Germany Belgium Czech Republic Austria Ukraine Russia

Symbol key
H Conference facilities L Parking K Restaurant D Sauna M Metro Bus Y Belfast Visitor Pass R Internet F Fitness centre J City centre location C Swimming pool W Wifi h Admission free

Belfast Weather
Temperature (C) Rainfall (mm)
20 18 16 14 Temper ratureC 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Rainfall(mm) MinTemp(C) MaxTemp(C) 100 90 80 70 Rainfall(mm) 60 50 40 30 20 10 0

By plane
George Best Belfast City Airpor t H-1/2, tel. (+44) (0)28 9093 9093, w w w.belfastcityairpor t. com. Named after the East Belfast-born footballing legend, this airport is just 3km east of the city centre, off the A2 Sydenham bypass. It has conference facilities, ATMs, foreign exchange, wifi, and a small selection of shops and food outlets. To get to town by bus, hop on the Airport Express 600; tickets 2/3 single/return, buses run every 20mins peak times Mon-Sat, reduced service Sun. Tickets can be purchased at the Airport TIC or on the bus. Approved airport taxis charge c. 8 for the 10min ride into the city centre. You can take a less frequent train into the city or, in the opposite direction, to Holywood and Bangor, from the nearby Sydenham halt. Belfast International Airport K/L-3, tel. (+44) (0)28 9448 4848, Situated 29km north of the city centre along the M2 motorway, facilities include postal services, ATMs, currency exchange, a business lounge, wifi and a tourist information desk. To get to town by bus, Airport Express 300 to the Europa Buscentre runs every 15mins at peak times Mon - Fri, (reduced frequency Sat & Sun) and hourly through the night. The 30-40min journey costs 7/10 single/return. A taxi to the city centre takes 30mins and costs c.30; a list of other sample fares is displayed in the exit hall.

Switzerland Slovenia Romania Croatia Italy Bosnia Serbia Bulgaria Montenegro Kosovo Albania Greece

By boat
Ferry terminals are a swift 5-10min well-signposted drive north of the city centre.

Isle of Man: Steam Packet Company (G-2), Albert Scotland and Liverpool: Stena Line (G-1), West
Quay, tel. (+44) (0)8722 992992, www.steam-packet. com. (April-Sept.) c.3hr sailing to Douglas.

FYR Macedonia

Cover story
Since it opened just over a year ago, The Hudson Bar has fast become one of Belfasts coolest hostelries. Its arrival at the heart of the old Smithfield Quar ter is spearheading a renaissance in the area well ahead of the relocation of the University of Ulster and its thirsty students in 2018.

It was 20 years ago this year that the first In Your Pocket hit the streets of Vilnius, Lithuania. Since then, we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with Ghent, Belgium, the latest city to be pocketed) and the number of In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching an amazing five million. Always an innovative publisher, we have just launched a new version of our iPhone app, which can be downloaded for free from the AppStore. Search for IYP Guides by name. To keep up to date with all thats new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook ( inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter ( inyourpocket).
Copyright notice
Text copyright Belfast In Your Pocket 2000-2012. Maps copyright Northern Ireland Tourist Board and Visit West Belfast. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Bank Rd, tel. (+44) (0)8447 707070, www.stenaline. Stenas new Superfast ferries sail to Cairnryan in 2hrs 15mins. They are the largest ships ever to sail the route and include, among other delights, a Nordic spa, free wifi and the multi-sensory POD Lounge with games, internet and music. The Liverpool journey takes 8hrs (overnight or daytime options).

By taxi (incl. Taxi Tours)

Taxis range from the traditional black hack (see p.50) to conventional cars. The former can be hailed if the orange TAXI light is on, the latter is more a phone and wait affair. These tried and trusted companies also run tours: Fonacab (+44) (0)28 9033 3333, Taxi Trax (+44) (0)28 9031 5777,

By train & by bus

Translink (tel. (+4 4) (0)28 90 66 66 30, w w w. operates all NI bus and rail services; its three main Belfast transport hubs are listed below. There are no left luggage facilities at any Translink stations.

NIs border with the Republic of Ireland is 360kms long from Carlingford Lough in the south to Lough Foyle in the north. Crossing it is a seamless affair. Non-EU drivers should hold an International Driving License. Drive on the left on both sides of the border, and look out for speed limit changes - marked in kph in the Republic of Ireland and mph in NI. A quick calculation is 100kph = 60mph (ie 3/5).


Editorial Managing Editor Heidi McAlpin (+44) (0)7980 267233 Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaite

Belfast Central Rail Station D-2, East Bridge St.

Belfast In Your Pocket ISSN 1747-0021 Belfast In Your Pocket Published six times per year. Next issue December 2012 - January 2013
Published by In Your Pocket Ltd. For all enquiries and comments contact

All major destinations are served such as Derry (including a picturesque portion of the North Coast) and Dublin (a c.2hr journey on the flagship Enterprise service). ATMs dispense Euros and Sterling. Keep your rail ticket for a free bus ride into town via any Metro service outside the main entrance. Alternatively, turn left outside the main entrance and take a 10min stroll into the city centre.

Car parking
Approx. 1300 on-street city centre parking meters charge 1.20 per hour (free Sun and after 6pm) payable by coin, mobile or credit/debit card. Check street signs as many spaces are restricted by time and red-jacketed traffic wardens are omnipresent. Privately operated car parks vary in price from the affordable to the eye-watering.

For competitions and all the latest Belfast and NI tourism news... Find us on and /BELFASTIYP @BELFASTIYP

Europa Buscentre and Great Victoria Street Rail Station B-2, Great Victoria St. Buses from the

Editors note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

citys most centrally located transport hub serve the South and West, including Dublin, Derry, and Belfast and Dublin airports. National Express buses from GB and continental Europe also terminate here. The Gt. Victoria St. railway stop is at the far end of the concourse. ci t ys se con d shiny bus stati on ser ves th e N or th and East including Por trush, Bangor and th e Ards Peninsula.

Customs & Visas

Check the Imports & Exports section of the HM Customs & Excise website EU citizens, and those from most other western countries, do not usually require a visa. Check with the British Embassy in your home country or contact UK Visas,

Laganside Buscentre D -1, Donegall Quay. The

Belfast In Your Pocket

October - November 2012

Arriving & BAsics

Tourist Information Centres
Belfast Welcome Centre C-2, 47 Donegall Place, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 6609, Open Mon-Sat 09:00 - 17:30, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Info desks also at both airports. Y West Belfast Tourist Information Point E-3,
An Cultrlann, 216 Falls Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 9096 4180, Y

Public Transport
Translink runs all NI public rail (NI Railways) and bus (Ulsterbus and Metro) networks. For full info tel. (+44) (0)28 9066 6630,

Belfast by bus

Disabled travellers
The Disability Discrimination Act ensures public places provide access for people with a disability. Contact Disability Action, tel (+44) (0)28 9029 7880, www.

Metro is the name for Belfasts bus service. Most buses start their journey from Belfast City Centre. Metro Day Tickets - Explore Belfast in your own way with these hop-on hop-off day tickets. 3.50: unlimited daily Metro network use Mon - Sat. 3 Mon - Sat after 09:30 or all day Sun (purchase 09:30 - 15:00 Mon - Sat and all day Sun). Child fares half price. Metro Day Tickets valid for travel on day of purchase only and cannot be transferred.

Belfast-Dublin Airport-Dublin City by coach

Belfast buzzes with 240V coursing through its domestic electricity supply. Plugs are the bulky three-pin variety so pack your two-pin adaptor for a closer shave.

Ulsterbus Goldline Service No: 200 operates daily between Europa Buscentre and Dublin Airport/Dublin city (c.2hrs/2hrs 30mins) hourly 05:00 - 21:00, then early bird services at 23:00, 01:00 - 03:00.

Northern Ireland by train - NI Railways

Money & Post Office

NIs currency is Sterling, the same as the rest of the UK. Banks open Mon-Fri 09:30-16:30 and some city centre branches open Sat 09:00-12:00. When getting cash from an ATM or in change you will often be given Northern Irish notes. While different in design to those used in Great Britain (England, Scotland and Wales) they are legal tender across the UK. Some GB shops and services may well turn their noses up at the sight of a Northern Irish tenner, so best to change them before you leave NI. Post Office, C-1, 12 Bridge St. Open Mon-Sat 09:00 - 17:30, Tues 09:30 - 17:30.

NI Railways operates a rail network across the province serving the following routes (see map p.10): Bangor line: Bangor-Belfast Larne line: Larne Harbour-Belfast Derry line: Derry-Coleraine* and Portrush-Belfast * Please note: the railway line between Londonderry Coleraine is currently closed for major track improvement work. Bus substitution services are currently in place. Portadown line: Newry-Portadown-Belfast Dublin line: Belfast-Portadown-Newry-DundalkDrogheda-Dublin (Enterprise Train - see p.5). Sunday Day Tracker: Unlimited Sunday travel on all NI scheduled train services. (6.50/3.25). No time restrictions apply.

Despite its reputation, Belfast is very safe for tourists. However, if you feel unsafe, freephone 999 or track down a police officer - usually found pounding the city in pairs.

Northern Ireland by bus - Ulsterbus

Smoking & Alcohol

Smoking is illegal in enclosed and substantially enclosed workplaces and public places, including bars and restaurants, and in certain vehicles. The legal drinking age is 18.

1 September - 17 November

Telephone dialling codes

From UK landlines or mobiles, add the prefix 028 before all eight digit NI numbers. The international dialling code is (+44)(0)28. If dialling from the Republic of Ireland you can also use the prefix 048.

NI Rambler Services: Translink operate a number of services to promote tourism in rural areas. These are ideal for tourists and locals who want to explore some of NIs most spectacular scenery by foot. Rambler services set down and pick up at key locations, and service main bus stations. Tickets can be purchased from the driver. Year-round Seasonal Kilkeel Rambler Causeway Rambler Sperrin Rambler Mourne Rambler Bus Rambler Ticket: available every Sun and during main NI school holidays. Unlimited travel on all Ulsterbus, Goldline and Metro Services. Must be purchased after 9.15am. Available from the driver (9/4.50). Translink Family & Friends tickets are available every Sat, Sun and main school holidays for 20 and provide unlimited bus and rail travel for up to 2 adults and 4 children (min. 1 adult and 1 child) anywhere in NI.

Love Metro Saturdays

Day ticket
Buy your ticket between 9.30 - 3pm and travel all day

Love Metro Saturdays

Passengers can ride Belfasts extensive Metro Bus system for just 2 every Sat from 1 Sept to 17 Nov between 09:30 and 15:00. Translinks Love Metro Saturdays offer has been designed to encourage car-free commuting into the city centre to enjoy shoppping, events and sightseeing. So forget about car parking charges or getting stuck in traffic and enjoy everthing Belfast and NI2012 has to offer.

Bus & Rail iLink Smartcard

Unlimited day, weekly or monthly bus and rail travel within 5 specified zones. Available for adults and children and is ideal if you travel by both bus and train on a regular basis. It is easy to use and can be topped up at one of the designated sales outlets. All fares and services subject to alteration.

Belfast In Your Pocket

Showing High Frequency Corridors within the Metro Network

1E Roughfort

Milewater Drive

1D Mossley

Monkstown Road Carnmoney / Ballyhenry

1A/C 13C, 14C 2C/D/E

Monkstown (Devenish Drive)


Main Corridors within Metro Network

From every 5-10 mins From every 15-30 mins

Ballyearl Drive New Mossley


Fairview Road

Jordanstown Road

Manse Way

14/A/B/C 13/A/B/C 2A/B 1A/C

Forthill Drive Ballyduff

13/A/B Avenue 2C/D/E

Monkstown 1A/C
13B 14B

13C, 14C 1G

Manse 2B Road
14/A/B/C 13/A/B/C

Carnmoney Road

Circular Road

Doagh Road Rathfern


Station Road Cloughfern

14A 14/C 13/C

Ballyhenry Road



13/A/B/C 14/A/B/C

1E 1F 13C, 14C

Northcott Shopping Centre 1B/C

Carnmoney Road
1D 1A

Rathmore Drive


East Antrim Institute

13A 2C

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Antrim Road Shore Road Holywood Road Upper Newtownards Rd Castlereagh Road Cregagh Road Ormeau Road Malone Road Lisburn Road Falls Road Shankill Road Oldpark Road Other Routes City Express

Antrim Road

Doagh Road


1E/J 2A/B

M5 Motorway

Park & Ride


M2 Motorway

Single direction routes indicated by arrows

Mallusk Industrial Estate



Bellevue Royal Mail


Church Road


Braden Park



Circular Route

Blackrock Square
12C 12C


Belfast Zoo Belfast Castle




Carrs Glen

Ballysillan Road

Antrim Road

Whitewell Road

2 M


64 2B/D

Jackson's Road

y wa or ot M

14/A/C 13C

Arthur Road

13/A/B 64

Belfast Road
28 27 28 27 28 27 3 28

Old Holywood Road

Shore Road



Cavehill Road
12 11A


M2 Motorway

Mountainhill Road

Oldpark (Westland Rd)


Oldpark 80A Road Alliance Avenue

80, 80A 12B/C 11A


57, 57A

Cliftonville Road

Donegall Park Ave 64 Somerton 64B Road Loughside Limestone Skegoneill Park Road Avenue Seaview Football Jellicoe Stadium Avenue Downview (Innisfayle Rd) 64B
12A 1D 61

Dargan Road

West Bank Road (Stena)


Holywood Exchange (IKEA)

26, 26A

27, 28

3 (Knocknagoney)

Holywood Road

Dargan Crescent

George Best Belfast City Airport

600 600

13/A/B/C 14/A/B/C

Duncrue Road


Crumlin Road Twaddell Avenue

80, 80A

Alexandra Park Ave

61, 64/B

Forthriver Road

Woodvale Road

57, 57A


Carlisle Circus

Duncairn Gardens


York Road

Grove Baths

26, 26B 26/B/C

Queens 26, 26A Road Victoria Park 600 Sydenham Road Sydenham By-pass

Airport Rd West

Connsbrook 28 Avenue Cairnburn Road


Old Holywood Road

Holywood Road
3 27, 28 20, 20A, 23

Circular Road Belmont Road

Massey Ave.
20 20A, 23, 29


Ballygomartin Road
80, 80A

Mater Hospital

12 1 11 10
5. 2.


Titanic 600 Quarter

Shankill Road Divis Street

Lower 82, 82A

Queens Bridge Mountpottinger Road

Newtownards Connswater Road Bridge


Hawthornden Way

Castlehill Stormont Road Estate Upper Newtownards Road

19 20, 29C

Ulster Stoney Hospital Road (Dundonald)

20/A, 29 19 4A Ballybeen 19 19, 29 4B

West Circular Road Springfield Road

81, 81A 80/A, 81/A



Monagh Road
81/A, 82/A 81/A, 82/A 10E/F

Whiterock Road
82, 82A


Falls Road

80/A, 81/A

Grosvenor Road

Belfast City Centre


Albertbridge Road

23, 27, 28

North Road
18, 19

Sandown Road

Comber Road 19


Coopers Mill Park

Albert Bridge
78, 79 77, 30 6

Beersbridge Road
18, 19 5A 5B

Knock Road
18, 29 18

East Link Road Kings Road

18, 29 29

M 1

10B/E/F 81A, 82A

Shaws Road

Glen Road

Falls Park

M ot or wa y

82, 82A Victoria



Hosp. Park Centre

Donegall Road

University Avenue

Ravenhill Road

Woodstock Road

Suffolk Road

Andersonstown Road
10B 10C/D/H


91, 92A 650

89, 90, 91, 92/A/B

90, 92, 92B

8 7

Cregagh Road
29/C 7C/D 30, 79


Grand Parade

Clara Road


78, 79 29/C 652 29/C

Whincroft Castlereagh Way Road

30, 31 29/C 5

19 Melfort Gilnahirk Road Drive 5 Braniel / Gilnahirk

Old Dundonald Road

Kennedy Centre

90, 92, 92B

Boucher Tates City Crescent Avenue Hospital Boucher Stockmans Road Lane Finaghy Road North Lisburn Road Musgrave Park Hospital

Mount Merrion Avenue

Glen Road


Ladas Drive
29/C 6 30, 31

Riverdale 10A Park 8C 81A, 82A 10H/X Ladybrook 10B/C/D/E/F/X St. Annes Poleglass Stewartstown 10H 650 Estate Road
10B/C/X 10F/X

Queens 77, 78, 79 University Stranmillis Ormeau Road Road University Annadale Road 8B/C 8A Avenue 29, 30, 77, 78, 79

Ballygowan Road Upper Knockbreda Road

Montgomery Road Cregagh Park

Balmoral Kings Hall



652 6

Ormeau (Forestside) Forster Green Hospital Saintfield Road

Mount Merrion

Tudor Drive

Brians Well Road

81A, 82A 10F

Bell Steele Upper Road Dunmurry Lane

10D/E 10D/E/F/X

Blacks Road


Belvoir Road
77, 78 School

Knockbreda Beechgrove Road Newton Park Four Winds

7A, 7C 7A, 7C

Sicily Park

Main Interchange Stations

NIRailways Station 1. NIR Central Station 2. NIR Great Victoria St 3. NIR Yorkgate Station Ulsterbus Station 4. Laganside Buscentre 5. Europa Buscentre

Park & Ride

8A/B/C Malone




7B, 7D



Cherry Road

Lagmore View

Summerhill 10D/E/F/X Road Twinbrook Estate

Kingsway Ballybog Road

9A/C Conway

Finaghy Road South


Newforge Lane Upper Malone Road Malone (Erinvale)

77, 78

Belvoir Drive

Park P & Ride Newtownbreda Road Beechill

77 77, 78 78

Cairnshill Road

Mount Eagles

76 7B, 7D Laurelgrove

Bellarena Castlerock

culture & events



Glynn Magheramorne Ballycarry Whitehead Downshire


Ballymoney Cullybackey

Ballymena Antrim
Mossley West

Movie House C-3, 14 Dublin Rd, tel. (+44)(0)28 9024 5700, This locally-owned chain of multiscreen cinemas shows all the latest Hollywood blockbusters in state-of-the-art surroundings. Its Dublin Road site is conveniently located for a spot of city centre celluloid escapism. Paid parking is available at the adjacent multi-storey, with free on-street parking after 18:00. Also at City Side Shopping Centre, York Rd. with free parking (F-2). Check website for all the latest ticket, meal and parking deals. QAdult 5.80, U15 4.30, 2+2 15, Senior Citizens 4, Students 4.25, all seats before 17:30 4, Crazy T uesdays 3 all shows. No extra charge for 3D films. Queens Film Theatre B-4, 20 University Square, tel. (+44) (0)28 9097 1097, www.queensfilmtheatre. com. Known locally as the QFT, NIs premier arthouse cinema has been the home of classic, Irish, foreign, avante garde and cult cinema since 1968. Now boasting two screens and a fully licensed caf bar, buy yourself a coffee and sink back into the coolest cinema seats in town (not literally). K


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Theatres & Concert Venues

Belfast Waterfront D-2, 2 Lanyon Place, tel. (+44) (0)28 9033 4455, Opened in 1997, this gleaming concert hall and conference centre is a striking architectural riverfront venue. The glass-fronted three-storey building holds a bar, gift shop and the Arc Brasserie. The spacious foyer also hosts regular free art exhibitions. Performances in the main 2245-seat arena range from big-name performers and classical music to cheesy tribute bands and international opera and ballet. Many business conferences are based here, and the 380-seat Studio provides a more intimate setting for drama, comedy and music events. KY


Dublin Road 14 Dublin Road, Belfast, BT2 7HN Cityside (Yorkgate) Cityside Retail Centre, 100 York Street, Belfast, BT15 1WA



lea na ar C



Free bus into town

Adelaide Balmoral Finaghy Dunmurry Derriaghy Lambeg Hilden
Rail passengers with a valid rail ticket can travel between Central Station and Belfast city centre free of charge on Translink Metro bus services. Free Ulsterbus connections from Newry Station to Newry city centre and from Londonderry Station to Derry city centre.

Moira Lurgan

Main Bus & Rail Interchange Dublin Line Londonderry Line Portadown/Newry Line Bangor Line Larne Line Airport Express 300 service to Belfast International Airport Airport Express 600 service to George Best Belfast City Airport Portrush Line

Scarva Poyntzpass

Dundalk Drogheda


Annes Square, Cathedral Quarter, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 5053, This brand new 18m creative mhc_iyp_july.indd 1arts hub dominates one side of the equally dramatic 02/08/2012 13:49 Grand Opera House B-2, Gt. Victoria St, tel. (+44) (0)28 Saint Annes Square. The six-storey colossus houses three art galleries, two theatres, a dance studio and workshop 9024 1919, Catch a show at this striking space. World-class local and international performances, Victorian theatre and gaze in awe at its opulent gilt moldings, exhibitions and classes for all ages populate its cultural carved plasterwork, angels-and-cherub fresco and elephant calendar. And a cafe and bar encourage further creative colboxes. Designed in l894 by famous theatre architect Frank laboration and contemplation. Q Daily 10:00 - 19:00. Later Matcham, the landmark buildings contemporary atrium-style extension has a Baby Grand performance space for smaller on performance nights. Paid parking at adjacent Saint Annes shows and Lucianos restaurant, named after opera giant PavaSquare multi-storey car park. JLK rotti who made his UK debut on these very boards. The varied year-round programme includes drama, musicals, ballet, opera Odyssey Arena D-1, 2 Queens Quay, tel. (+44) (0)28 and the hugely popular Christmas panto. Tours available. KY 9045 1055, This modern entertainment complex in Titanic Quarter is Belfasts landmark MilKings Hall E-4, Balmoral, tel. (+44) (0)28 9066 5225, lennium Project and a major symbol of the citys rejuvenation. When the Belfast Giants ice hockey team isnt in residence, This large complex in south Belfastthe main 10,000-seat Arena pulls in music big guns including dates back to 1934 and is the citys largest Art Deco building. Rihanna, Lady Gaga, MTV EMAs and, er, The X Factor. You Its 32acre Showgrounds and various Exhibition Halls hosts get the picture. The adjoining Odyssey Pavilion has several conferences, events and, in the past, great boxing moments restaurants for pre-show eats.LK including Barry McGuigans successful World Title defence in 1985. An annual funfair, and agricultural, motor, holiday, home and garden shows, draw the crowds. L Ulster Hall C-2, Bedford St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 3900, Opened in 1862, this grand old Victorian Lyric Theatre F-3, 55 Ridgeway St, tel. (+44) (0)28 building has hosted boxing, music, comedy... and iconic names such as Charles Dickens, The Rolling Stones and Belfast-born 9038 1081, NI has no National singer Ruby Murray. Its main interior feature is the magnificent MulTheatre, but if it did it would be the Lyric. Established in 1951, holland Organ. During WW2, it became a dance hall for US troops. the Lyric moved to its 18m purpose-built Laganside venue in And Led Zeppelin first performed Stairway to Heaven at the es2011. This large brick and glass ediface houses a 389 seat teemed venue. Following a major renovation, the hall continues to auditorium, performance studio, rehearsal room, conference attract a diverse range of year-round events and entertainment. It space and cafe/bar. Check out its eclectic range of quality is also the home of the internationally acclaimed Ulster Orchestra. drama, with classic Irish plays and works by exciting new Check out the foyers Caf Grand Dame and exhibition of the Halls writers at its heart. Film star Liam Neeson began his acting history. JYK career here and is the Lyrics patron. K

The MAC -Metropolitan Arts Centre C-1, Saint or call 028 90 66 66 30

October - November 2012


Culture & events

Lady Boys of Bangkok
Th i s N ove m b e r, the Lady Boys of Bangkok bring their spectacular song and dance c a b a re t to B e l fasts Custom House Square for a third fabulous year. And this time t h e t ro u p e tu r n Carnival Queens to deliver two weeks of pulsating beats and sizzling costumes in this fiesta of fun. Its Belfast meets Brazil via Thailand! The all-new show brings sixteen of the worlds most beautiful showgirls (who just happen to be men) to their home-from-home, the specially constructed Sabai Pavilion from Sat 3 - Sat 17 Nov. And this years extravaganza promises an irresistible mix of comedy, cabaret and raunchy capers as the ladies perform hits of superstars such as Lady Gaga, Christina Aguilera, Katy Perry, Shirley Bassey and Queen. Expect an up-for-it crowd to get on their feet as the divas pout and preen their way through a non-stop set of sing-a-long faves. Audience participation is positively encouraged and the atmosphere wil be electric from start to grand finale finish. And to complete your exotic escape Thai Master Chef Miss Khanittha Pornngarm serves up her authentic dishes while the venues fully-stocked bars keep the audiences lungs well lubricated. Round off your evening of unforgettable entertainment by having your photo taken with the Lady Boys of Bangkok or bagging a copy of their souvenir brochure. Tickets can be purchased on-line at www.whatsontickets. com or by tel. 0871 705 0705 (10p per minute from a BT landline). And you can find out more about the show at WIN TWO TICKETS FOR THE BIG SHOW For a chance to win a pair of tickets to the show, click Like on our Facebook page then email the name of the capital of Thailand, together with your contact name and number to by Sun 28 Oct.

50th Belfast Festival at Queens

Bestriding the city like a cultural colossus, the Belfast Festival at Queens is Northern Irelands big annual shindig. And this year marks the events half century entertaining the city. Over the decades, superstars such as Jimi Hendrix, Billy Connolly, Laurence Olivier and Ennio Morricone have enraptured audiences. So whos in town from 19 Oct - 4 Nov for its landmark 50th anniversary? Ray Davis, Lesley Garrett, Buena Vista Social Club, Ladysmith Black Mambazo, and dinner and a show in the company of Van Morrison, head up the big music names. And the Festival kicks off on Fri 19 Oct at 17:00 in Victoria Square with Fifty Fanfares, a free musical event combining brass players with cutting-edge technology. Drama has always been at the forefront of the Festival and this year audiences can expect a local twist on Shakespeares classic tragedy as Macbeth takes centre stage at the Lyric Theatre. The MAC is the venue for a fresh theatrical production of James Joyces Ulysses. And the bicentennial of the birth of Charles Dickens inspires a selection of events commemorating his three Belfast visits. Staying with the literary scene, Ian Rankin discusses his new Rebus tome while fellow Scot John Gordon Sinclair (of Gregorys Girl fame) introduces his debut novel. Enjoy the company of one of the worlds most lauded writers, and theatre and opera directors, in An Audience with Jonathan Miller. And theres more conversation in the company of such diverse guests as Irish President Michael D. Higgins, uncompromising journalist Peter Hitchens and local footballing legend Norman Whiteside. Dara OBriain, Scott Capuro and old school fun from the legendary Mick Miller keep the laughs loud as part of the big comedy line-up. Festival patrons of all ages can enjoy innovative puppet shows, mesmerising circus and Scottish Operas family-friendly production The Elephant Angel. While Botanic Gardens becomes the ever popular Enchanted Garden from 1-4 Nov - book ahead to ensure your passage through this illuminated wonderland. The theme-packed programme races from a platform for all things Ireland in 50 Shades of Green to a celebration of comic book women in Graphic Grrrls! The history, traditions and folklore of Mexico are headed up with the Day of the Dead - a skull-encrusted fiesta and Skeleton Parade on 4 Nov. And to mark Festival 50, join PLACE (see p.45) on their special Red Plaque Tours showcasing the events main venues through the years. Art, dance and film bring yet more thought-provoking and fun-filled days and nights out at city-wide locations. So get your hands on the programme or check out www. to see the full line-up and book your tickets.

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Belfast In Your Pocket


Did you know that Halloween began right here in Ireland? The Festival of Samhain - Irish for summers end - celebrated of the end of the harvest season and beginning of The Celtic New Year. On the night of 31 Oct it was believed the boundaries between the worlds of the living and dead overlapped. Celts would light large communal bonfires to ward off evil spirits, and scatter the bones of slaughtered livestock on the fire. All Souls Night takes place at the same time and is a mainly Catholic tradition of praying for departed souls caught between purgatory and Heaven. Mass Irish emigration ensured Halloween festivities took root in America. Back in Belfast, from 5-18 Nov the Diwali & Samhain Festival celebrates our connection with India at this time of year in a packed programme of culture, arts and entertainment. Find out more at, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 1381. So, when youre watching the fireworks and dunking for apples, remember the local origins of this spooky celebration.



Halloween Metro Monster Mash

Where - Front Gates of City Hall When - From 24th - 31st October At 6.30pm, 7.30pm & 8.30pm Price - Adult: 10.00 Child: 10-16: 7.00 | 6 - 9: 5.00 Time - 1hr 15min

On Sun 28 Oct, pint-sized Potters and mini Merlins join ogres of all ages to enjoy Belfasts annual Halloween fireworks fiesta. The citys sparkliest, spookiest event takes over the Odyssey Car Park from 14:00-18:00. Live on-stage music and dance, street theatre and walkabout per formances, fire shows, face painters and prizes for the best costumes keep the crowds entertained. Then, at 17:45, the night sky erupts with 15 non-stop minutes of fantastic fireworks - the largest display in N. Ireland.

Halloween at W5
D-1, Odyssey Complex, 2 Queens Quay, tel. (+44) (0)28 9046 7700, On Halloween Week, W5 interactive discovery centre at the Odyssey prepares to scare and explore with slimy dips, scary beasts and spooky crafts. To find out more about W5s opening hours and prices, flick to our main feature on p.47. Halloween Snapperz Sat 27 Oct - Sat 3 Nov 11:30 - 13:00 except Sun Using simple paper craft techniques make a horrifying Halloween snapping creature to frighten your friends and family. Spooky Dip Sat 27 Oct - Sun 4 Nov 14:00 - 17:00 daily I n d u l ge i n t h r e e h o u r s o f s q u i d g y, s q u e l c h y, squashy surprises as you conquer your overactive imagination and bravely plunge your paws into the unknown and shock your way through the spooky dip experience. Monster Big Hedz Sat 27 Oct - Sun 4 Nov 14:00pm - 17:00 daily W5s Atrium has seen many unusual sights over the year but nothing quite like this motley crew! Meet the Rogues Gallery of cartoon monsters and have your picture taken with our Frankenstein, Pumpkin King & Werewolf Big Hedz - bring your camera along to capture your little monsters moment. The extravaganza always draws huge crowds, so get there early to make the most of the fun. Parking is restricted at the site, so hop on the free Translink Metro shuttle bus service running from SS Moores in Chichester Street to the Odyssey and back to City Hall from 14:00 - 19:00. Get up close to the sk y high action without all those crowds by stepping aboard these Lagan Boat Company trips. The Halloween Firework Boats sail on Sun 28 Oct at 17:00 and 17:15 in time to catch the big Odyssey display. Tickets cost 10pp and U5s go free. And the boats also run a Half Term Halloween Timetable from Sun 28 Oct - Fri 2 Nov with daily sailings at 12:30 and 14:00. Book online at www. or tel. (+44) (0)28 9033 0844. And see our main listing on p.23. tales will resonate long after the tours conclusion. A quirky and enlightening way to spend a spooky evening in the city. Q 24-31 Oct Halloween Tours last c.75mins and dept. Belfast City Hall front gates 18:30, 19:30 & 20:30. Turn up on the night or book ahead to secure your scream. Private tours also available. Adult 10, age 10-16 7, age 6-9 5. JY

Halloween Fireworks Boat Trip

Halloween Shows at Aunt Sandras Candy Factory G-3, 60 Castlereagh Rd, M5, tel. (+44) (0)28
9073 2868, www.auntsandras. Get into the Halloween spirit with these delicious workshops designed to indulge your every sugar-filled whim. Chomp your way through a feast of toffee apples, sticky skulls and lots of other freaky eats at this East Belfast candy emporium. And learn how to make your own creepy creations. The guys and gals at Aunt Sandras have gone Halloween crazy with their seasonal treats, so if youre planning a party or fancy taking a tour, take a trip to the cutest sweet shop in town. For more info, see our main listing on p.59.

Belfast Ghost Walk C-2, tel. (+44) (0)7961 717992, Journey through the dark shadows and alleyways of haunted Belfast with Richard van Horn and his team of local true crime enthusiasts. A keen Ripperologist (thats Jack the Ripper aficionado to you and me) and member of the exclusive Victorian White Chapel Society, Richard and his trained up team will lead you through some of the citys lesser known darker past to discover its link to Jack the Ripper and infamous bodysnatchers Burke and Hare. Told with theatrical flourish, these meticulously researched

Paranormal Tours at Crumlin Road Gaol F-2, 53-55 Crumlin Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 6609, Ahead of its 19 Nov opening, this North Belfast prison invites ghosthunters inside its historic walls to track down the undead. Half Night Tours from 23:00 on Fri 20 and Sat 21 Oct cost 50. While Mon 22 Oct tours at 19:00 and 20:15 cost 13. Tours are hosted by the NI Paranormal Research Association and strictly for over 18s. Pre-book online and meet at the gates of the Gaol 15mins before the tour begins. Warm clothing and flat shoes are recommended. Presumably for a quick escape when the ghouls come knocking... not for the faint-hearted. Find out more about the Gaol and the launchof its regular tours on p.42. October - November 2012

Belfast In Your Pocket


Christmas in Belfast
Belvoir Players Christmas Panto
NIs theatre scene has a long and proud tradition of amateur dramatics. And the guys and gals at Belvoir Players are among the best in the business. The award-winning company began in 1968 and today boasts a dedicated troupe of 75 adults augmented by a flourishing Theatre Academy of 150 young people aged 4-18. From Dec 19 Jan 5, Jack and the Beanstalk takes centre stage as the Belvoir Players returns for its 40th fun-filled pantomime. Watch our hero find the magic beans and battle the gruesome giant in this music and dance-filled Christmas fiesta. Tickets cost 8 (7 conc.) and booking ahead is extremely advisable as the panto always draws a big crowd. See their ad on our inside back cover for info on performance times and prices. As well as the annual panto, the 2012 Autumn drama season is packed with classics, comedy and concerts performed by accomplished local theatre and music groups. Expect an array of entertainment, from Animal Farm to Alan Bennett, with the Castlereagh Drama Festival running from Nov 15-17. The Players por tfolio of productions is per formed both at the purpose-built Belvoir Players Studio and in theatres across NI and beyond. Catch the panto and Autumn performances at the Studio which is less than four miles south of Belfast city centre - follow the Belvoir Forest sign on the Outer Ring close to the Ramada Hotel. To find out more about all shows and book tickets, tel. (+44) (0)28 9049 1210 or (+44) (0)28 9064 9835. And for more details on Belvoir Players schemes and shows, and how to get to the Studio theatre, visit www.

Christmas Continental Market and Lights Switch On

Giant Bratwurst served from the iconic Schwenkgrille, Spanish Paella, and nougat from Italy are also available for hungry festive shoppers. Closer to home, you can show your support for local retailers from St Georges Market who make up over 30% of all traders - and enjoy the best of Northern Irish produce. While handmade gifts including winter-warm Peruvian clothing made from genuine Alpaca wool, Aztec jewellery and some Parisian fashion keep the global vibe on trend.

The Belfast Christmas Market returns to the grounds of City Hall on Sat 17 Nov following the switching on of the citys Christmas Lights. This perennially popular shopping extravaganza captivates thousands of revellers with food, drink and gift stalls laden with eats and treats from home and abroad. Celebrate the festive season with a delicious glass of Glhwein as you browse the wares of over 80 traders. The Christmas Market offers a gastronomic journey from French crepes and Belgian chocolates to an exotic selection of ostrich, wild boar and crocodile burgers. This year, the shopping experience will be enhanced by the musical offerings of community choirs, including a very special treat from the Pickwick Players performing traditional Dickensian carols in authentic Victorian costume, as part of the Dickens 2012 bicentenary celebrations. The Market is open Mon-Wed 10:00 - 20:00, Thur-Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00 until Thur 20 Dec. For more information, follow the Belfast Continental Christmas Market on Facebook.

17 NOV - 20 DEC City Hall

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Belfast In Your Pocket


Sport & leiSure

Local Football
Northern Ireland A-5, Windsor Park, Tates Ave,
off Lisburn Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 9066 9458, www. Owned by local team Linfield FC and used for NI internationals, this 14,000-seater stadium rises up amid rows of terraced houses on the lower Lisburn Road. Soccer legend George Best is NIs most famous alumni and the team reached the World Cup Finals in 56, 82 and 86. NI memorably beat England here during the 2006 World Cup Qualifying campaign when David Healy scored the only goal. The local Premier League runs Aug-May. St, Shore Rd, tel. +44 (0)28 9037 0777, www. Fan-owned Crusaders FC (and NI Womens Premier League champions, Crusaders Strikers) is a North Belfast football team formed in 1898 and known as the Hatchetmen. The team won the 2011-12 Setanta All-Ireland Championship and Irn-Bru League Cup. Seaview, the clubs home ground, is a 3200 capacity newly-refurbished stadium that boasts NIs first 4G (fourth generation) artificial surface. Stadium hire, pitch bookings, matches (incl. corporate hospitality and Training Suite), football-themed birthday parties, school sports days and corporate/works leisure events are all available at this family-friendly venue. Local premier Amateur League side Newington YC, the IFAs Football for All, the Peace Players International and a host of community users are among the clubs and associations who use its facilities. Mini soccer runs every Sunday from 12:30 to 14:00. For all Seaview bookings and info contact or tel. +44 (0)28 9037 0777.

sport & leisure

Ormeau Golf Club C-3, 50 Park Rd, M7, tel. (+44) (0)28 9064 0700, w w Formed in 1893, this nine-hole course is one of the oldest golf clubs in Ireland. Its mature parkland setting can claim two-time major champion Rory McIlroy, 1947 British Open Champion Fred Daly and Sherlock Holmes creator Sir Arthur Conan Doyle among its patrons. Visitor-friendly, centrally located and with views of Belfasts hills and the Harland & Wolff cranes, find it off the Ravenhill and Ormeau Roads. LK GASP (Gravity Action Sports Park) L-4, Tullyree Rd, Bryansford, nr. Newcastle, Co. Down, tel. (+44) (0)7739 210119, Try out a range of Mournes-based extreme sports, many unique to the island of Ireland including Surfin Dirt mountain boarding - a cross between snowboarding and skateboarding Other high-octane and inventive activities include a mountain bike trail, powerkites, blokarting (think go-kart with sail) and frisbee golf. Stags, hens and birthday parties are all welcome. Q Mountain board sessions from 10, frisbee golf 6 unlimited daily play, powerkite and blokart experiences from 25. Odyssey Bowl D-1, Odyssey Pavilion, 2 Queens Quay, tel. (+44) (0)28 9045 2100, This mega enter tainment den features ten-pin bowling, pool tables, video games, bar and fast food restaurant. From Wed-Sat the ultimate Glo-Bowling experience introduces music and UV lights taking the game to a wh ole new dimension. Kids par ties and corporate packages rack up the entertainment factor. Q Mon-Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun and school hols (check ahead) 10:00 - 23:00.


Crusaders FC F1, Seaview Stadium, St Vincent

NI sporting stars go global

When it comes to sport, Northern Ireland has always punched above its weight. Iconic footballer G eorge Best, golfs Rory McI l r o y, G r a e m e M c D o we l l a n d Darren Clarke, b oxi n gs Barr y McGuigan, snookers Alex Hurricane Higgins and Dennis Taylor, motorcyclist Joey Dunlop, F1s Eddie Irvine, 1972 Olympic gold medal-winning pentathlete Dame Mary Peters and champion jockey Tony McCoy are just some of the locals who have made it big in their chosen fields. Add to that illustrious list recent London 2012 successes with Olympic rowers Alan Campbell and brothers Peter and Richard Chambers, boxers Paddy Barnes and Michael Conlon and Paralympic swimmer Bethany Firth, and athletes Michael McKillop and Jason Smyth.

Antrim GAA off F-4, Casement Park, Anderstown Rd.,

tel. (+44) (0)28 9060 5868, The Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA) dates back to the late 1800s and has its roots in Irish language and culture. Hurling, Gaelic Football and camogie are Irelands three indigenous Gaelic Games and Casement Park (est. 1953, cap. 32,500) is their Belfast home. In a nutshell, hurling is a tougher form of hockey with players brandishing thick, wooden hurleys, teams of 15 Gaelic Footballers can kick and run with the ball, scoring points over the crossbar (1) or in goal (3), and camogie is a female version of hurling. The Gaelic Football season is year-round and its glamour tournament, the AllIreland Championship, runs May-Sept with the winning County collecting the Sam Maguire Cup.

Drumbo Park Greyhound Stadium

L-3, 57 Ballyskeagh Rd, Lambeg, Lisburn, Co. Down, tel. (+44)(0)28 9061 0070, Place your bet on 10-11 live races every Thur, Fri and Sat night then sit back, enjoy a fabulous three-course meal at the 300 seater Grandstand Restaurant (see listing p.32) and watch your sleek running machine romp to victory. And between races, you can follow more on-screen action from Dublins stadiums for more betting fun. NIs only greyhound stadium is a mere 20min drive from Belfast city centre, and its ample free parking ensures a seamless start and finish to your big night out. Two bars, fast food, Tote booths, resident bookmakers and 95 large plasma screens keep you close to the action and bet-ready. Check the website for the latest Race & Dine packages and promotions. QPark open 18:30. First race 19:30/19:45. Last race 22:30. Bar open until 23:00. LK

Belfast Giants D-1, Odyssey Arena, Queens Quay, tel.

(+44) (0)28 9073 9074, The Belfast Giants debuted at the sparkly new Odyssey Arena in December 2000 and, to everyones amazement, quickly established a huge following. The non-sectarian, communityfriendly team ticks all the right boxes and, with Canadian players dominating the squad, the Giants continue to attract an impressive fan base. The team won the 2011-12 UK Elite League Championship. The season runs Sept-April.

The Jungle NI K-2, 60 Desertmartin Rd, Moneymore, Magherafelt, Co. L/Derry, tel. (+44)(0)28 8674 8881, w w NIs ori ginal paintball and Zorbing site also boasts a 60ft High Wire, Tree Top Adventure Course with zip-wires, rope bridges and scramble nets in a natural forest setting. Its King Louis Descent power fan drop is a 30.6kph freefall without parachute or bungee cord. The Tree Top Course is open all year and costs 10-35 depending on how extreme a high ropes ad venture youre after. Other activities include Clay Pigeon Shooting, Archery and Team Building Games. Advance booking is essential, especially during peak periods such as weekends and school holidays. Find the venue just 45mins from Belfast. LK Segway NI K-3, Craigavon Lakes Site, Tannaghmore
Gardens, Silverwood, Craigavon, Co. Armagh, tel. (+44)(0)7764 448673, NIs first first full-scale Segway operator runs tours on these two-wheeled self-balancing vehicles from their Craigavon Lakes, Co. Armagh base. Riders can be aged 10+ (U16 with accompanying adult rider) and, after initial training, the Segways can reach speeds of 12.5mph - faster than you think! Easy to use, extremely safe, eco-friendly and incredibly fun, get in touch with the guys to arrange your trip. Personal and Golf Hire (yes they come with golf bag holder) are also available to give your get together a quirky twist. The team has extensive skills and experience in Stag & Hen Parties, Birthday Parties, Corporate Events and entertainment, and any group size and function can be catered for. These two-wheeled machines are, as the boys say, the best outdoor pursuit you will try. We say its time to give them a whirl.

Ulster Rugby G-3, Ravenhill Stadium, 85 Ravenhill Pk,

tel. (+44) (0)28 9049 3222, The 12,500 capacity Ravenhill Stadium is home to Ulster Rugby one of the four rugby teams representing Irelands provinces (the others being Leinster, Munster and Connacht). The most illustrious moment in the clubs history was in January 1999 when the team lifted the European Cup. In 2012 they were also runners-up in the same tournament. Each season the team competes in the RaboDirect Pro12 and Heineken Cup.

Belfast In Your Pocket

October - November 2012


Belfast dates back to the early 17th Century and is Northern Irelands largest, and the island of Irelands second largest, city. The name Belfast comes from the Gaelic Beal Feirste (mouth of the sandy ford). put down, first by English Protestant revolutionary Oliver Cromwell, then the Dutch King William lll of Orange. The fledgling Protestant plantation is secured and Ireland becomes firmly British. 18th Century Belfast becomes a major linen-producing centre, earning the tag Linenopolis. 19th Century Belfast experiences a golden age under Queen Victoria. The Harland & Wolff shipyard is founded in 1862 and city status is granted in 1888. Belfast becomes one of the worlds leading industrial cities and most of its great buildings are constructed. The 1847 Famine reawakens Irish Catholic Nationalism.

Belfasts quarters
Put simply, Belfast is made up of five areas: North, East, South, West and the City Centre within which cosmopolitan Quarters have emerged, providing a focus for culture, tourism and economic development. Cross reference this quick guide with our What to see key (p.42): SB - South Belfast, WB - West Belfast, EB - East Belfast and NB North Belfast. Easy peasy.


Titanic Quarter (East Belfast)

1641-49 & 1688-90 Two major Catholic risings are

Cathedral Quarter (city centre)

Reconciliation, Stormont Estate At the funeral of one of Stones victims, two British Army corporals inadvertently drive into the cortege and are ambushed by an angry mob and shot dead by the IRA. Early 90s Violence continues on both sides as both the British and Irish governments attempt to break the political impasse.

Wolff shipyard, East Belfast. 1912 April 15 Titanic sinks on its maiden voyage, killing over 1500 passengers. The Ulster Volunteer Force (original UVF) is formed and on Sept 28 over 470,000 Unionists sign the Ulster Covenant, pledging to militarily fight Home Rule. 1914-1918 The UVF, and most of the Irish Volunteers, joins up to fight for Britain - both hoping to gain support for their causes. In 1916 Ulster Divisions suffer heavy causalities at the Battle of the Somme. 1921 Following the 1919-21 Irish War of Independence, six of Irelands 32 counties remain British and the state - or Province - is named Northern Ireland. Belfast becomes its capital city and the Unionist-controlled government oversees direct rule from the purpose-built Stormont. 1941 Belfast Blitz. During WW2, the city is bombed three times by the German Luftwaffe, killing 955 people and destroying 3,200 homes. Northern Ireland becomes a staging post for over 300,000 American GIs. 1968 The Civil Rights movement grows as Nationalists protest Unionist bias at Stormont. The British Army is deployed on the streets of Belfast and Derry.

Early 20th Century 1911 May 31 RMS Titanic is launched from Harland &

The Peace Process

1994 Aug 31 The IRA announces a complete cessation of military operations. The Combined Loyalist Military Command follows on Oct 13. 1995 Security measures are relaxed and troop numbers reduced throughout Belfast and NI. 1998 The Good Friday Agreement is voted in by 71% of the population. It marks a new power-sharing Assembly, early release of all paramilitary prisoners and looks toward withdrawal of British troops and decommissioning of paramilitary weapons. Aug 15 IRA dissidents plant a bomb in Omagh killing 29 people making it the single worst atrocity in the history of the Troubles. Nov 30 US President Clinton pays an historic visit to NI. 2000 Feb 11 The Assembly is suspended following the breakdown of decommissioning talks. May 27 The UUP re-enters the power-sharing Assembly despite no IRA decommissioning. Devolved power is restored two days later. 2000 Dec Belfasts landmark Odyssey Millennium project opens, heralding major redevelopment of the historic Titanic Quarter. 2002 Oct 14 Devolution is suspended at midnight and direct rule returns to London. 2005 May 5 At the UK General Election the DUP and Sinn Fein strengthen their positions as NIs two major political parties. July The IRA formally ends its armed campaign. 2005 Nov 25 Belfast-born football legend George Best dies aged 59 after a long battle with alcoholism. The former Man Utd and NI players funeral is held at Stormont on Sat 3 Dec. 2007 March 26 Following local elections, and in an historic face-to-face meeting, DUP leader Ian Paisley and Sinn Fin leader Gerry Adams announce the restoration of the NI Assembly on May 8. Paisley becomes First Minister and Sinn Fins Martin McGuinness Deputy First Minister. 2008 May Having founded the party in 1971, Ian Paisley steps down as leader of the DUP and, therefore, First Minister. He is succeeded by Peter Robinson. 2010 May At the UK General Election, the DUP and Sinn Fein once again emerge as NIs two main parties. In a shock result, however, First Minister Peter Robinson loses his 30year Westminster seat to the Alliance Partys Naomi Long. Ian Paisley becomes a Lord. 2012 March 31 The 77m Titanic Belfast visitor experience opens ahead of the 15 April centenary of the ships sinking.

Named after St. A n n es C a t h e d ral (pic), this city centre Quarter is a vibrant h u b for th e ar ts, restaurants, nightli fe, hotels and big city events. Custom H o u s e, S t. A n n es and Writers Squares often stage free concerts and street enter tainment. And Donegall Street (wh e re t h e C a t h e dral stands), Waring Street and cobbled Hill Street are the Quarters main eating and drinking drags. The MAC is the Quarters, and citys, big new arts venue (see p.11 for main listing). South Belfasts leafy, student-strewn thoroughfares boast the eponymous University (pic), Botanic Gardens and the Ulster Museum. It is here, too, that youll find the Lisburn Road, a stylish shopping and dining strip - for more info check out Shopping (p.58) or click www.

Queens Quarter (South Belfast)

The Troubles
introduced. The city experiences a week of intense fighting as massive gun battles break out across North and West Belfast. Dec 4 15 people, including two children, are killed in a UVF bomb attack on McGurks bar in North Belfast. It is the first major atrocity of the Troubles. 1972 Jan 30 Bloody Sunday. During a Civil Rights march through the streets of Derry 14 unarmed civilians are shot dead by British troops. Both internment and Bloody Sunday ensure increased support for the Irish Republican Army (IRA). Meanwhile, the British government introduces direct rule from London. 1972 July 21 Bloody Friday. Nine people die when, without warning, 21 IRA bombs explode across Belfast in just over an hour. 1981 Bobby Sands and nine other IRA and Irish National Liberation Army (INLA) prisoners die after going on Hunger Strike at the Maze Prison in protest at the removal of political prisoner status. 1985 Nov 15 The British and Irish governments sign the Anglo Irish Agreement, giving the Republic of Ireland a greater say in NI affairs. 1988 March 6 Three IRA members are killed by the SAS in Gibraltar. During their funerals loyalist Michael Stone launches a gun and grenade attack killing three mourners.

By far the most ambitious development of all, this major project is set to transform 75 hectares of East Belfasts former shipyard into one of the largest water front developments in Europe - recession pending. Star of the show is undoubtedly Titanic Belfast - the worlds largest Titanic-themed visitor attraction (pic). Other highlights include SS Nomadic, W5, the Odyssey Arena, PRONI and Titanics Dock and Pump-House - all listed in this guide. Beyond this icon, East Belfast is also the birthplace of three international names - The Chronicles of Narnia author CS Lewis, singer-songwriter Van Morrison and football legend George Best - each has a plaque, statue or mural marking their local lineage. And dont miss Stormont Estate and Parliament Building, heading out of the city along the Newtownards Road. Closer to the city, the Lower Newtownards Road has a large Loyalist political mural, big B&W Titanic mural and the new Yardmen sculpture. Shoppers should navigate their way to Bloomfield Avenue and the Belmont Road with their bijou selection of independent shops, boutiques and cafs. Whil e N or th Bel fast has yet to establish its own Quarter, its Cave Hill pinnacle (pic) is a real city highlight with dramatic views across Belfast Lough and all the way to Scotland on a good day. Belfast Castle and Belfast Zoo are also top-class attractions nestled in this verdant backdrop. Back towards the city, there are several Nationalist and Loyalist interfaces with respective political murals. Conversely, the area also boasts some grand old houses once owned by wealthy and industrious linen merchants - particularly along Fortwilliam Park off the Antrim Road (map: off F-1). Crumlin Road Courthouse and Gaol also falls within its remit and the Gaol re-opens for tours on 19 Nov 2012 (see p.42). Find out more about the area at

1971 Aug 9 Internment, or imprisonment without trial, is

Gaeltacht Quarter (West Belfast)

North Belfast

West Belfasts Falls Roa d h as i ni tia te d a Gaeltacht Quarter prom oti n g th e us e of the Irish language in its shops and services. A West Belfast map has also been put together showin g historic sigh ts, including St. Peters Cathedral (pic), along b oth th e Fall s a n d Shankill Roads. Copies are available at the Falls Roads West Belfast TIC at An Cul turlann. An d you can find out yet more interesting neighbourhood tours and attractions in our West Belfast section (p.49) or by visiting

Belfast In Your Pocket

October - November 2012


titanic in belfast
L-3, Ulster Folk and Transport Museum, titanic. Opened on 31 May 2011, the 100th anniversary of Titanics Belfast launch, this exhibition connects the indoor Transport and outdoor Folk Museums with exhibitions and living history experiences telling the story of Titanic and its era. More than 500 original artefacts from the Museums collection are on display in the Transport Galleries. And a Titanic trail leads visitors to the Folk Museum to meet people who lived here before, during and after Titanics maiden voyage. This unique two-centre experience recreates the entwined life and times of the city and the ship in a truly authentic setting. For full details of the Museums prices and opening hours, see our main listing on p.46.

titanic in belfast
TITANICa: The Exhibition and The Peoples Story


Titanic Boat Tours

D-1, dep. Donegall Quay beside the Big Fish sculpture, tel. tel. (+44) (0)28 9033 0844/(+44) (0)7718 910423, Jump aboard the only tour in the world that traverses the same water where this mighty ship was built and first slid into the sea. Belfast locals are proud to proclaim, She was alright when she left here! - and this Titanic boat tour offers an authentic perspective of the doomed liner from onboard the small passenger ferries Joyce Too and Mona. The 75min tour passes the significant historical sites around Queens Island and the shipyards of Harland & Wolff where Titanic was designed, built and launched. Tours Oct daily 12:30, 14:00 & 15:30, Nov Sat & Sun 12:30 & 14:00. Tickets: 10/8, 2+2 30, U4 free. Dept. Jetty 2 beyond Big Fish sculpture. Combined Boat Tour & Belfast Barge Maritime Museum ticket: This two-day ticket allows you to take a Titanic Boat Tour and spend as long as you like on the Barge (closes 16:00, see listing p.45). Ticket: 12/10, 40 (2+2). Boats can also be booked for private parties throughout the year. Check website or call at the Maritime Emporium for all the latest tours, times and prices. And see p.15 for Halloween Firework Boat Tours.

Titanic Murals a n d Ya r d m e n sculptur e G-2,

Lower New townards Rd, East Belfast, M4. Two murals on East Belfasts Lower Newtownards Road depict Thomas Andrews, Captain Smith, RMS Titanic and the Harland & Wolff cranes. The black & white painting at Dee Street is particularly impressive and worthy of a photo-op. The Yardmen bronze sculpture was created by Ross Wilson and depicts three shipyard workers walking towards Westbourne Church from the docks

No other city in the world but Belfast can lay claim to having lived beneath RMS Titanics magnificent shadow for so long. The emerging superstructure, on slipway No. 3, dominated East Belfasts Harland & Wolff shipyard for just over two years, from the moment its keel was laid in March 1909 to its departure on 2 April 1912. Only the cold North Atlantic seabed has been its home for longer from the early hours of 15 April 1912 when the mighty ship collided with an iceberg and came to its final resting place. The triumph and tragedy of the ill-fated liner has transcended into modern folklore, its very name instantly recognisable throughout the world. And now Belfast has commemorated its connection with the opening of Titanic Belfast (p.23), the worlds largest Titanic-themed visitor attraction. Heres our round-up of all Belfasts tours and attractions taking you to the heart of the Titanic story.

of Harland & Wolff shipyard, this listed Edwardian building houses a 12m deep pump-well whose four engines could drain two dry docks of 23m gallons of water in just 100mins. Of the two, the adjacent Thompson Dry Dock is the largest - and the place where Titanic had its final fit-out. The Docks gargantuan proportions give an awesome indication of Titanics scale and the tour includes a 44ft descent to its base. One hour tours reveal the engineering excellence behind these colossal constructions. The Pump-House Caf & Visitor Centre has free wifi, souvenirs and info panels and audio-visuals recalling Belfasts industrial and maritime heyday. Find it one mile from the Odyssey. Parking free if spend 5 or more in cafe. QOpen daily Oct 10:00 - 18:00, Nov 10:30 - 16:30. Tours Oct hourly 11:00 - 16:00, Nov 11:00, 12:00, 14:00. Self-guided tours available 10:30 16:00. Adult 7, student 6, 5-16 4, U5 free, Senior Citizen 6/6.50 (weekday/weekend), 2+2 15. Reduced rates for self-guided tours. LKWY

Titanic Belfast
G-2, Queens Rd, Titanic Quarter, tel. (+44) (0)28 9076 6386, This 77m colossus encases the dreams and disaster that is the story of Titanic. Each pinnacle of N Irelands largest visitor attraction is the exact height of Titanic. And at the entrance, a giant TITANIC steel sign sits alongside a life-size Titanica female figure. Inside, the ground floor, with cafe, restaurant, shop and ticketing desks, features a full-height atrium. Dramatic use of metals and wood meld the past with the present to create an authentic shipyard atmosphere in a 21st Century setting. Nine galleries across three floors take you from the 1910 shipyard to the present day. The story starts with Boomtown Belfast where giant screens show street scenes from the era and a large interactive floor shows the ships plans. Next the Arrol Gantry and gentle six minute Shipyard Ride use sights, sounds and smells to provide a sensory exploration of life as a shipbuilder during Titanics time. The Launch shows the moment when the mighty ship slid into Belfast Lough. A large translucent panel showing Titanic ahead of launch clears to reveal her actual slipway. Board the ship at The Fit-out and marvel at replica cabins from all three classes. Then yet more large screen technology takes you on a virtual tour - from boiler room to bridge. Meet passengers and view priceless photos from Irish priest Father Brown at The Maiden Voyage before you are confronted with stark reality of The Sinking. A starry night descends as the ship hits the iceberg and relays desperate messages for help. An animation of Titanics final moments is poignantly projected onto a large wall of lifebelts. The Aftermath, with exact-scale lifeboat, recalls the British and American inquiries in the tragedys wake. Over 1500 souls had perished - and the fate of every sin gl e p ers on wh o sail e d on Titanic - including the survivors - is recorded in fullysearchable touch screens. Myths and Legends explores the ships enduring global appeal through books, films, music and television. Titanic Beneaths 88-seat viewing theatre features images taken by Robert Ballard who discovered Titanic in 1985. Finally, in the Ocean Exploration Centre marine biologists reveal life beneath our local shores. The tour is self-guided with staff in each gallery answering your questions. The top two floors house four conference and events suites - one with an exact replica of the famous staircase (not generally part of tour). And two subterranean levels provide paid parking for 500 cars. The arrival of Titanic Belfast makes a visit to the city a must-do lifetime experience. Allow at least half a day to see this super-sized attraction. Q Oct-March: Daily 10:00 - 17:00. Adult 13.50, 5-16 6.75, U5 Free, Student/Unemployed 9.50, Senior Citizen (Mon-Fri) 9.75, (Sat+Sun) 11.50, 2+2 34. Group rates also available. HLK

Belfast City Hall memorials C-2, www.belfastcity. Reflect on the tragedy at the Titanic Memorial Garden where a 1920 stone sculpture depicts female figure Thane looking down on two sea-nymphs lifting a drowned sailor. Heading its list of 22 local men who perished is Titanics designer, Thomas Andrews. The Garden also features the worlds only memorial to name all those who died in the disaster. A statue of shipyard founder Sir Edward Harland and plinth dedicated to Lord Pirrie, shipyard chairman at the time of Titanic, are nearby. And inside a commemorative stained glass window depicts the ship J behind Odyssey Complex, M26, tel. (+44) (0)28 9073 7813, Once the beating heart

Titanic Walking Tour D-1, dept. front Titanic

Titanics Dock and Pump-House G-2, Queens Rd,

Belfast, Queens Road. M26, tel. (+44) (0)7546 489875, Follow in the footsteps of Titanics builders in this, the citys only Titanic Walking Tour. Tour guide Colin Cobb and his teams extensive knowledge leaves no fact unearthed - even down to the number of apples on board the doomed liner (36,000, if youre asking). The 90min tour takes in several significant shipyard locations - including the Drawing Offices, Titanic Belfast, Titanics Dock & Pump-House and access to the bottom of its 44ft deep Dry Dock where the ship was fitted out. The enter taining and detailed insight is suitable for all ages - whether a self-professed Titanorak or not. Q Daily Tours Oct 11:00, 13:00 & 15:00, Nov 11:00 & 14:00. Adult 10, 10-16 7, U10 5, U5 free, 2+2 28 (incl. Pump-House Tour). Y

Belfast In Your Pocket

October - November 2012


titanic in belfast
Titanic Souvenirs & Treats
Though Aprils centenary has departed, the city continues to embrace all things Titanic. Begin your journey at the Titanic Pub & Kitchen (p.38. Then stock up on all manner of ship-shape souvenirs and Titanic Memorabilia at The Irish Linen and Gift Centre (p.59), Carrolls (p.59), Maritime Emporium (below) and, of course, Titanic Belfast (p.23). The New Titanic Restaurant (p.36) has a selection of Titanic souvenirs for sale including pewter fob watches made by the same company that supplied items to the film Titanic. And more gifts are available at Titanics Pump-House (p.22) and the Belfast Welcome Centre (p.6) including posters, prints, books and T-shirts. The Linen Hall Library, PRONI, Belfast Barge, PLACE, Crane View Kitchens and Dock Cafe are also offering yet more maritime distraction. Flick through the magazines Where to eat (p.29) and What to see (p.42) sections to find out more. International names, boutique one-offs and gloriously homely guest houses and B&Bs are plumping their collective pillows ready for your weary wee head. Prices quoted are based on hotel rack rates, but go online for much better, often last minute, deals. Our categories are based on the star ratings as dished out by our wonderful friends at the Northern Ireland Tourist Board -

Where to stay
Outside its imposing but inside the atmosphere is much more refined. Natural light floods through the glass-fronted foyer, and many of the immaculately presented bedrooms offer fabulous views along the River Lagan. The top three floors have executive bedrooms (Molton Brown goodies for the ladies, Irish whiskey for the men) and a classy airport-style business lounge. The Sonoma restaurant serves Irish fusion food and Cables Bar is ideal for a pre-Waterfront tipple or postshopping espresso. Q198 rooms. (single/double from 69, executive from 109, junior suite from 139, executive suite from 209). JHFLKWY hhhhh


Cream of the Crop

Culloden Hotel L-3, Bangor Rd, Holywood, Co. Down, tel. (+44) (0)28 9042 1066, res@cull.hastingshotels. com, Set amid 12 acres of beautifully landscaped and sculpture-dotted gardens, this former 19th Century bishops palace offers sweet escape from the downtown melee. Views of Belfast Lough add a tranquil air, yet the city centre is a mere six miles away. The sumptuous interior boasts fine antiques, striking stained glass windows, Louis XV chandeliers and the elegant Mitre Restaurant. Rooms are equally opulent and range from the traditional luxury of the original building to the stylish and sophisticated new executives - and all have iPod docks, plasma TVs and toy ducks in tux (for bathtime and take home fun). The more informal Cultra Inn bar/restaurant is in front of the hotels helipad - handy for all those visiting VIPs from U2 to Tony Blair. Sumptuous suites and an ESPA Spa confirm Cullodens five star status. Q105 rooms. (single 190-215, double 240-260, suites 390 -990). Full Irish Breakfast 20. HFLKDCW hhhhh Europa Hotel B-2, Gt. Victoria St, tel. (+44) (0)28
9027 1066,, Heads of State, movie icons, rock gods and sports stars have all bedded down at the Europa, one of the citys most enduring landmarks. Its location, standing tall between the Grand Opera House and Gt. Victoria St. Bus and Rail Station, makes it a great base from which to explore the city and beyond. Grab a window seat at The Piano Bar Restaurant for excellent people-watching opportunities or drop in on the more informal ground floor restaurant The Causerie. Delegates can network to their hearts content at the Exhibition Centre, then retire to an executive bedroom replete with CDs, plasma TVs and Ralph Lauren bedding. And every room has a little rubber duck to call your own. Q272 rooms. (single 140 - 190, double 210 - 230, suites 310 - 430). Breakfast 12 - 16. JHEKWY hhhh

Malmaison C-1, 34 Victoria St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9022 0200,, www. One of the UKs most stylish hotel chains has landed in Belfast... and not before time. This former seed warehouse with whimsical flora and fauna friezes gives way to an interior draped in gothic opulence. Crushed velvet boudoirs, black leather sofas and roll-top baths adorn the Samson and Goliath suites:named after Belfasts landmark cranes. The urban theme extends to the restaurant with fabulous canvases featuring the citys political wall murals. A wonderland of flickering tealights, extensive cocktail menu and flat screens showing classic films bring diners back to the hotels goth-chic ambience. Q64 rooms. (room 160, superior 180, Goliath suite 315, Samson suite 400). HKW hhhh Merchant Hotel C-1, 16 Skipper St, tel. (+44) (0)28
9023 4888,, As you walk through this stunningly renovated Victorian bank building, the wow factor never lets up - from the lavish chandelier in The Great Room restaurant to the magnificent Art Deco extension with spa, gym and rooftop hot tub. Exquisitely groomed, antique-festooned suites are named after well-known local writers and artists, with the laters work forming part of the decor. And all rooms have the latest mod-cons including downloadable bedtime stories read by local actor James Nesbitt... who could possibly resist? Award-winning cocktails in The Bar and live music at Berts Jazz Bar, along with The Cloth Ear trad pub and Ollies nightclub, attract hotel guests and Belfasts nightowls ever in search of the latestin place. This is without doubt the citys most fabulous overnight option. Q64 rooms. (rooms from 160, suites 370-450). JHFLKDWhhhhh

Bag some boat booty at The Irish Linen and Gift Centre

Maritime Emporium
D-1, Obel, 66 Donegall Quay, tel. tel. (+44) (0)28 9033 0844, Nautical artefacts, vintage posters and ship models share space in this snug shop with seafaring prints, furniture, and cushions made from old ships flags. T-shirts proclaiming the oft-used tagline, She was alright when she left here , and copies of Titanics original plans as referenced by James Cameron for his epic flick, keep Titanoracs happy. Run by the team behind the Titanic Boat Tours, you can also buy tickets for this trip and the Water Taxi. Find it at the base of Obel, Belfasts tallest building. Q Daily 11:00 - 16:00.

2080,, From the double-height glass-fronted foyer to the immaculately presented rooms, this luxury city centre hotel exudes uncompromising elegance at every turn. Acid yellow, burnt orange and lime green set the tone in the guestrooms, and dark wood is cleverly incorporated to balance out the vibrant shades. Each room offers retro dial phones, MP3 connections, flatscreen TVs, sunflower showers and great city views. Splurge on the Penthouse Suite and youll also get your very own limo service and 24/7 butler. Around 90% of all materials used is of Irish origin, and the theme continues in the restaurant where all food is locally sourced to keep those airmiles down. Right beside the Grand Opera House, this downtown abode really is a cool, classy city stand-out. Q130 rooms. (standard executive 180, superior 210, deluxe 240, studio suite 270, penthouse 1500). JHFLKWY hhhhh

Fitzwilliam B-2, Gt. Victoria St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9044

Radisson Blu D-3, 3 Cromac Pl, Ormeau Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 9043 4065,, www. Set in the revamped Gasworks complex, this big-name hotel reveals a minimalist mantra reflecting its stylish Scandinavian origins. Glass panorama lifts spirit guests to their choice of two rooms: warm, contemporary Urban, with its dark woods and burnt ochres, and cool chic Nordic featuring ice tones and natty pin-stripe chairs. If moneys no object, check into Suite 7 - NIs largest one-bedroom suite - and check out spectacular views along the River Lagan. Contemporary Italian cuisine served in Filini restaurant. Q120 rooms. (single 125 - 160, double 135 - 180, suites from 260). HLKW hhhh Ten Square C-2, 10 Donegall Sq South, tel. (+44) (0)28
9024 1001,, www. A favourite of the citys visiting celebs, and recently voted one of the worlds sexiest hotels, this super-chic boutique hotel stands out for many reasons. The renovated linen houses cream exterior blends in beautifully with its envious position overlooking the back of City Hall. Look up and youll see Michelangelo, Washington, Newton and Shakespeare staring out from their plasterwork portholes. Inside, the Asian-themed bedrooms are individually designed

Hilton Belfast D-2, 4 Lanyon Place, tel. (+44) (0)28

9027 7000,, www. This centrally-located 12-storey hotel is a relatively recent red-brick addition to the city skyline.

Belfast In Your Pocket

October - November 2012


Where to stay
Days Hotel B-3, 40 Hope St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024
2494,, www. This huge, eight storey monolith is the biggest hotel in town and a great base for city centre shopping and nights on the tiles. The short stroll to Great Victoria St. Bus and Rail Station makes daytrips and International airport connections a doddle. Many of the great value bedrooms have superb views across the city and feature spacious power showers and video games for hire. If you can tear yourself away from that little lot, grab a pre-nightlife drink in the bar with prices cheaper than nightclubs!!. Car parking is 5 per overnight stay. Q250 rooms. (rooms from 59 per night). Breakfast 7.95 per person. Free WIFI in lounge, bar & restaurants. JHLKW hhh 0871 527 8070, Another great value hotel rises up in the city centres historic heart - right next to Cathedral Quarters bars and restaurants and a very short stroll from all the main shops, tours and attractions. Abundant with all Premier Inns expected features, including that Good Night Guarantee or your money back, this latest arrival also offers meeting rooms, chargeable wifi access and the contemporary-style Four Corners Bar & restaurant. The sympathetically restored brickwork facade of this listed building lends the hotel a touch of elegance and continues the areas stylish renaissance. Q171 rooms (Rooms from 59). Breakfast 7.50, Continental 5.25. JLKW hhh

Where to stay
Premier Inn, Waring Street C-1, 2-6 Waring St, tel.
make the most of the space. The first floor conservatory-style Bar Caf serves up a buffet-style breakfast and, come the night, transforms into an informal drinks area. But with the best bars on your doorstep, no need to stay in... Q90 rooms. (Rooms from 49). Breakfast 5.95-7.95. JW hhh


Guesthouses and B&Bs

Maranatha G-3, 254 Ravenhill Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 9046 0200,, www. This restored 18th Century South Belfast townhouse overlooks Ormeau Park - home to one of Irelands oldest golf clubs where the public can play its nine-hole course. If city life is more your thing, hop on the bus for the 10min ride into town. Bedrooms are ensuite and family and childrens rate are available on request. Q10 rooms. (Single 45, Double or twin 35pps, Family 30). LW Rayanne House L-3, 60 Demesne Rd, Holywood, Co Down, Somerton House F-1, 22 Lansdowne Rd, tel. 0044 (0)28 9037 0717,, Beautifully decorated in period colours and dotted with antiques and curios, this grand old Edwardian townhouse is a real Belfast gem. Close to Cavehill, Belfast Castle and Belfast Zoo, and a 10-minute bus ride into the city centre, Somerton is ideal for couples who crave a bit of homely peace and quiet, with flatscreen TVs/DVDs, tea and coffee in all rooms, free computer use in guest lounge and house wifi. Its the right side of town for the Liverpool and Stena ferry terminals, not to mention the M2 motorway should you fancy a daytrip to the Giants Causeway. Q9 rooms. (single 35 - 45, double 58, twin 48 - 58, family 70). W

Narnias walk-in wardrobe. CS Lewis Statue, East Belfast. with one - the Bradley Suite - a veritable private art gallery featuring paintings by Terry Bradley, one of Irelands most acclaimed artists. The hotels self-styled Oriental opulence spills over into The Grill Room & Bar, an exquisite restaurant with carnivore-friendly menu and colonial-themed watering hole attracting the citys aspirational sophisticates. For business and private events with a glossy sheen, try the multi-functional Porcelain Events Suite. Room rates include full Irish breakfast. Q23 rooms. (standard 150, superior 170, deluxe 220, Linenhall suite 265). Rates include a full-Irish/ continental breakfast. HBKW hhhh

(+44) (0)28 9031 1909,, This may be Holiday Inn without the frills but, with free breakfast and car parking thrown in for good measure, the price is hard to beat. Some rooms have fine views of Cavehill, and Chambers restaurant aims to lure diners to this convenient Queens Quarter location. Q114 rooms. (rooms from 69 per night). Breakfast included. Free WIFI in lounge, bar & restaurants. HLKW hhh

Holiday Inn Express C-4, 106a University St, tel.

Jurys Inn B-2, Fisherwick Place, Gt. Victoria St, tel.

9032 8511,, Situated opposite the BBC and a favourite with suits and creative types, this city centre hotel offers top class business and leisure facilities. The bright, contemporary rooms come with Playstations and pillow menus with a choice of five plumps. The good nights sleep theme continues with wooden shutters, complimentary cocoa and a selection of dream-inducing meals at The Junction Restaurant and Bar. Q170 rooms. (single 65, double 75, weekend special 89). JHFKDCW hhhh

Holiday Inn C-3, 22 Ormeau Ave, tel. (+44) (0)28

(+44) (0)28 9053 3500, Yet another fantastically located hotel: literally a minutes walk from the Grand Opera House and on the doorstep of some of the citys best shopping and nightlife. The big, bright foyer, with free wifi and cosy sofas, affords great views of historic Church House. Revamped rooms are swathed in subtle, sophisticated dark woods and neutral tones, and come with plasma screens, proper-sized hairdryers and plenty of sprawling space. And the corner rooms have particularly pretty vistas across the lawns of Inst. Grammar School. Six meeting rooms are ideal for business pow-wows before digesting your deals or daytrips over a pint in the contemporary Inntro Bar or dinner at the Innfusion restaurant. Q190 rooms. (Rooms from 59. All rooms max 2 adults + 2 children, or 3 adults). JHKWY hhh

Ramada Encore C-1, 20 Talbot St, tel. 0844 801 0331,, www.encorebelfast. An elegant piazza is emerging at the back of St. Annes Cathedral, and this hotel is sitting pretty at one corner. Inside, light reflects around the receptions dominant white space, with subtle colours and specially-commissioned local artwork adding a cool, design hue. The stylish SQ Bar and Grill, and Hub Bar and Lounge, take centre stage on the ground floor, along with three meeting rooms (each named after an Irish writer). Bedrooms have clean wooden floors, wet-room style bathrooms, plasma TVs and, apart from four executive rooms, are all the same size. Ask for a room on one of the upper floors for good views across the city. Wifi is free in public areas and charged in-room. Call for parking arrangements. Q169 rooms. (Rooms from 69.95). Breakfast not included. JHLKWY hhh Travelodge B-2, 15 Brunswick St, tel. 0871 984 8484,, If youre after a great value, no frills room with an excellent city centre location then this could be it. Revamped bedrooms feature flat screen TVs and streamlined furniture to

Irish Landmark Trust

Fancy overnighting in an Irish gate lodge, castle or lighthouse? These and many more unique and history-steeped properties are among the Irish Landmark Trust's distinct portfolio of sixteen holiday lets. Now in its 20th year, the Trust takes abandoned and crumbling buildings from across the island of Ireland - many of national significance - and returns them to their former glory for everyone to enjoy. These meticulously renovated properties range from Drum Gatelodge on Northern Ireland's stunning north Antrim Coast to Galley Head Lightkeeper's House overlooking Co. Cork's brooding coastline. Merrion Mews provides quirky Dublin city centre accommodation right at the heart of this gentrified Dublin green. And a stay in the Blackhead Lightkeepers Houses (pic) spirits you to another era with their delightful interiors and jaw-dropping views. All properties sleep from two to ten people, so you can opt for a romantic weekend bolthole to a fun-filled get together with family and friends. And by staying, not only are you having a fantastic and memorable holiday in a magical setting, but you're also helping preserve more incredible buildings for future visitors to enjoy. Find out more about the work of the Irish Landmark Trust - including buildings currently under renovation - and book your dream property by visiting or tel. (+353) (0)1 670 4733.

Belfast International Youth Hostel B-4, 22 Donegall
Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 9031 5435,, www. This huge hostel is the biggest in Belfast and the only one affiliated with Hostelling International. Its a short walk from all a tourist heart desires, from Queens Quarter pubs and attractions to city centre shops and restaurants. A recent renovation has heralded a slew of top class amenities including en-suite rooms, left luggage, currency exchange and laundry facilities. The Causeway Cafe serves up good value grub and keep you connected with all your lovely new travel chums. Minicoach tours are based at the Hostel for trips to the Giants Causeway and north coast. And if youre exploring beyond Belfast, check out sister hostels at Armagh, Enniskillen, Newcastle, Bushmills and Whitepark Bay. Q54 rooms. (Prices pppn - child, family and group rates available. HI members 1 discount. singles from 21, doubles & triples from 14.50, quads from 11.50, 6 bed dorms from 10, large ensuite dorms from 11). JHRLKW

Malone Lodge Hotel A-5, 60 Eglantine Ave, tel.

(+44) (0)28 9038 8000,, In a short space of time this locally-owned, Queens Quarter hotel has become one of the best four stars in city. The spacious bedrooms are elegantly decorated in calming cream and stylish charcoal tones, and their large bay windows positively encourage the sun to shine. Macklins Bar serves snacks and more substantial meals from its grill menu while The Green Door Restaurant offers a great value Sunday Carvery. Q50 rooms (singles 95, doubles 105 - 120, triples 120 - 140. Apartments also available.). HFLK DWhhhh

Crescent Townhouse B-4, 13 Lower Crescent,
off Botanic Ave, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 3349, www. This charming boutique hotels elegant 19th century exterior promises something different in the Queens Quarter. The deluxe rooms are suitably stylish with Belfast-style sinks lending a classy antique air, while the suites crank the luxury up a notch with Victorian roll top baths and canopy beds. The Metro Brasserie is one of the best hotel restaurants in the area and Bar/Twelves comfy leather sofas, good lunch menu and live music nights go down a treat with well-heeled professionals and media luvvies. Q17 rooms (17 Total rooms ). (single 75, double 85, suite 100). REKW hhh

Park Inn C-3, 4 Clarence St. West, tel. (+44) (0)28 9067 7700/(+44) (0)28 9067 7701,, The citys central and affordable three star hotel has rooms reflecting the international chains design concept - block primary colours, functional and modern rooms, and all the features youd expect including tea and coffee, wifi, laptop-sized safe and satellite TV. Standard rooms come with super-sleek shower rooms and branded toiletries. Upgrade to Business Friendly and wallow in the bath, recline in the seating area or direct your gaze at the double aspect vista. The adjoining RBG restaurant and bar is the perfect spot for a spot of lunch, dinner or drinks (see separate listings for more details). And the fitness centre with sauna and steam room, and seven conference suites, keep this hotel punching above its weight. When youre checking in, check out the wall of Belfast photos in the double height foyer. Loving their work... Q145 rooms. (Advanced booking from 59.25). JHFKDWY hhh Premier Inn, Titanic Quarter G-2, 2a Queens Rd, tel.
0871 527 9210/(+44) (0)1582 567890 - from outside UK,, www. Sitting pretty for the major rejuvenation of the Titanic Quarter, this great value, new-build chain hotel has all the Premier Inn staples including (chargeable) parking and wifi and those snazzy purple and white en suite bedrooms. If youre here to see a show at the Odyssey Arena, this is the hotel for you - its right next door. The city centre is a gentle 10min stroll across the Lagan Weir, and George Best Belfast City Airport is but a mere mile away. Q (Rooms from 60). LKW hhh

International airport
Park Plaza Hotel K/L-3, Belfast International Airport, tel. (+44) (0)28 9445 7000, Popular with tourists and business types catching an early flight, this modern hotel is a 50m walk from the airport entrance and offers helicopter transfers and in-room flight information for execs on the move. Its internal balconies overlook the bright, spacious foyer and provide a panoramic view across the airport. The contemporary-style rooms feature black and white photos of Northern Ireland and the conference rooms are named after Irish and Scottish islands. Circles restaurant is perfect for preflight networking or a bite of fusion cuisine before the airline food beckons. Q106 rooms. (Room only from 79. Superior Doubles from 79. Executive Double from 99). HLKW hhhh October - November 2012

Belfast In Your Pocket


Where to stay
Rathmullan House, Co. Donegal
Rathmullan, Co. Donegal, tel. (+353) (0)74 915 8188, www. rathmullanhouse. com. Crisp autumn leaves and a fresh lough shore breeze wel com e gu es ts to this most inviting of Irish country houses. Built in 1820, this year marks the County Donegal residences half century as a hotel. And as soon as you arrive, Rathmullan Houses beautifully landscaped lawns and elegant cream faade envelop you in an aura of luxurious familiarity. And by that we mean head-turning antiques and paintings blend seamlessly with the informal atmosphere. Maybe its something in the Fanad Peninsula air. Or perhaps the Lough Swilly beach at the foot of its grounds underpins the happy holiday vibe. Steppin g back insid e, sofa-filled lounges lined with well-stocked book shelves positively beckon you to sit back and peruse their bounty. While the turf fires and those sweeping garden vistas demand gentle contemplation as you look forward to dinner and plan the day ahead. Ah, the dinner named after the gardens arboreal star, The Weeping Elm Restaurant is swathed in a lightstrewn tented ceiling that evokes a romantic night sky. The estates Victorian Walled Garden delivers the finest fruit, herbs and vegetables to your table. While the main menu brims with local produce, from Rathmullan Lamb and Greencastle landed monkfish to Glenvar honey pannacotta and a fine selection of Irish cheeses. This refined retreat has earned a deserved reputation as one of Irelands most popular dining destinations. And so to bed each of the 34 rooms is individually decorated with yet more antiques and period features enhancing the houses 19th century origins. Families are as welcome as couples, with interconnecting rooms available for extra space. A 15m indoor heated swimming pool and two all-weather tennis courts keep everyone energised. And theres even a dog friendly bedroom so Fido can join in the fun.

Local Food
Most of NIs traditional dishes have their roots in potatoes and bread. This simple peasant fare has endured amid a profusion of fusion cuisine and contemporary twists. C heck ou t th es e h ear t y classics, and more, and give your mouth a bit of a treat. Potato bread: Its the humble spud elevated to gastronomic heights. This thin square of loveliness is at the heart of every Ulster Fry and a must-buy foodie souvenir. Wheaten bread: A healthy brown bread made with wholewheat flour and delicious toasted with melted cheese or buttered and served with a big bowl of steaming broth or fine slivers of smoked salmon and a lemon wedge. Soda bread: First baked in 19th Century Ireland when local peasants added baking soda to help the dough rise. The result is a thick, stodgy bread best served fried or toasted with a big dollop of butter. Ulster Fry: Often dubbed a heart attack on a plate, the humble Ulster Fry has entered the pantheons of classic local cuisine. Take the common fry - sausage, bacon, egg, mushrooms, tomato - and add a hefty heap of potato bread (pic) and soda bread. Its as simple as that. Pastie Supper: Not to be confused with the pastrywrapped Cornish variety, this local version is a pattyshaped concoction of mashed pork, potato and herbs in a deep-fried crispy coating. The pastie has been immortalised by Van Morrison in his song A Sense of Wonder. Note: Anything with the word supper attached means it comes with a portion of chips. Further inland, Glenveagh National Park is a perfect daytrip to see natural woodland, landscaped gardens and the stunning lakeshore setting of 19th century Glenveagh Castle. Dramatic coastal roads and picture postcard beaches shore up north Donegals breathtaking scenery. Take a drive and lose yourself in this dramatic wonderland. Opened in 2009, Harry Blaney Bridge connects the Fanad and Rosguill Peninsulas, extending your Atlantic Drive to windswept Horn Head and onwards to the surf chic town of Dunfanaghy. And getting to Rathmullan from Belfast is a seamless 110 mile drive... simply head to Derry, then northwards via Letterkenny. In the summer season a car ferry also makes regular daily crossings between Buncrana and Rathmullan. Whether you choose to make Rathmullan House your starting point for exploring Donegal or remain within its restful environs, this charming base makes an ideal autumnal overnight. Q34 rooms. Super Saturday and Fantastic Friday Special Offers. One Night B&B + one House Dinner 110pps standard room. Upgrade to superior room with garden views for 15pp. Valid Fri & Sat 5 & 12 Oct, 9 & 17 Nov and 8 & 15 Dec. Midweek and other offers available online. Get 25% discount if you pay in sterling CASH (not applicable to sterling credit card). LKCW hhhh Champ: A delicious comfort food dish of potatoes mashed with lots of butter, warm milk and chopped spring onions or, as we call them, scallions. Irish Stew: Traditionally made with lamb or mutton, this hearty peasant dish is best served in a traditional pub accompanied with a pint of Guinness. The dish gets an early mention in Lord Byrons tiresome tome The Devils Drive. Dulse: Salty dried seaweed usually sold in small paper bags at markets, most famously the Oul Lammas Fair held each August in Ballycastle, Co. Antrim. Tayto crisps: Ask any local to name their favourite crisps (or chips) and youll probably hear Tayto Cheese and Onion, mate. Made since the 1950s at Tayto Castle, Tandragee, these distinctive yellow packets with Mr Tayto logo have become an unlikely Northern Ireland icon. Tours of Tayto Castle are available; see Armagh Apples: Eves scrumptious orb is grown in the aptly-named Orchard County and available as a cider, soft drink or - heaven forfend - humble fruit. Mays Armagh Apple Blossom Festival cultivates the crop with lots of tasty and revealing events and eats


Price Guide
- Literally as cheap as chips. If youre after a coffee, a sandwich or quick snack, youre quids in here - Plush cafs, agreeable bistros and delicious takeaways that wont break the bank - Upmarket lunches and good value evening meals in relaxed surroundings - Fine dining served with a touch of class (all prices approx. per person for main meal)

If you can tear yourself away from your abode, Rathmullan village and its surroundings are imminently explorable by foot and car. The area was the setting for the 1607 Flight of the Earls, when the countrys noble elite fled to France in search of support to overthrow the English. They failed in their mission and never returned. This pivotal chapter in Irelands history inspired Rathmullans Flight of the Earls Heritage Centre.

TGI Fridays C-2, Level 2, Victoria Square, tel. (+44)
(0)28 9024 9050, Candy-striped dcor garnished with an eye-catching collection of pop culture and sporting memorabilia greets diners at this super-sized Victoria Square restaurant. Sizzling steaks, bounteous burgers, flabbergasting fajitas and sensational salads all grace its mammoth menu... and those US-sized portions are large enough to satisfy even the biggest appetite. Speaking of which - the cornucopia of cocktails with 500 (yes, 500!) intoxicating concoctions should really get the party started. Fabulous for a family treat and perfect for a pals night on the town. Find it on a prominent corner position on Level 2. Q12:00 - late. . J

Asian & Japanese

Ginger Tree B-3, 23 Donegall Pass, tel. (+44) (0)28
9032 7151. With almost two decades of wisdom, tradition and fabulous cooking to its name, the Ginger Tree has long been the restaurant of choice for local foodies. In fact, so renowned is the Japanese nosh that Sir Paul McCartney and one-time rock gods Razorlight have feasted on its delicious dishes (though not at the same time). For the rest of us ordinary folk, the restaurant offers minimalist monochrome decor and Japanese artefacts that gel well with the authentic cuisine. Q Mon-Sat 12:00 - 14:30, 17:00 - 21:30. Sun 17:00 - 21:30. .

Hakka Noodles C-3, 51 Adelaide St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9031 3270, An elegant red and black interior reflects the meticulous Japanese menu at this classy noodle bar. Run by Eddie Fung, the man behind Zen, the same attention-to-detail dishes, drinks and service make this yet another of his stand-out restaurants. The informal air and extremely good value-for-money food almost belie the mastery behind its authentically crafted cuisine. Melt-in-themouth dim sum, refreshing green teas and fresh sushi to go are among the mouth-watering morsels ready for your maw. Q Mon-Fri 12:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - late, Sat 16:00 - late, Sun 13:30 - 22:30. -. JW Sakura C-4, 82 Botanic Ave, tel. (+44) (0)28 9043 9590, Sit by the sushi train and pick your meals as they trundle past, or order from their extensive menu at this little bit of Tokyo on Botanic Avenue. Japanese cuisine has taken off big-time in Belfast and this is a great spot to join fellow saki and sushi fans. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:30. . S Wagamama C-2, Level 1, Victoria Square, tel. (+44)
(0)28 9023 6098, The global noodle phenomenon has arrived in Belfast, and not before time. Cosy up in communal benches with fellow udon, soba and ramen fans and enjoy your freshly prepared fare - so fresh, in fact, that you and your friends dishes may arrive at different

Belfast In Your Pocket

October - November 2012


experience. And theres even a salad bar and good veggie selection for all you herbivores. Leave an extra notch on the belt... and try and time your visit to avoid the lunchtime rush. Q Lunch 12:00 - 17:00, Grand Buffet Dinner 17:30 - late. Sun 12:00 - late. (Children must be under 140cm/4ft 5in). . J culinary prose. Although the haunt of Belfasts self-styled gastro luvvies, dont let its potential air of intimidation put you off... the award-winning food is surprisingly affordable. Q Thurs, Fri 12:00 - 14:15, Mon-Sat 18:00 - late, Sun 17:00 - late. . J



House of Zen C-1, 3 St. Annes Square, tel. (+44) (0)28

9027 8688, Seductive and sophisticated, this new Cathedral Quarter restaurant serves the finest Chinese cuisine. Exotic dishes from across the country are meticulously prepared and exquisitely presented, from delicious dim sum to sliced fillet steak served on a sizzling plate. The dark wood and jewel coloured lighting combine to create an opulent Oriental atmosphere. Freshly prepared cocktails, alcove-style seating and that pristine piazza location keep the mood convivial and the locals coming back for more. Praise indeed. Q Mon-Fri: 12:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - late, Sat: 17:00 - late, Sun: 13:30 - 22:30. . J

Lee Garden B-4, 14-18 Botanic Ave, tel. (+44) (0)28 9027 8882, If you like your Dim Sum or Stir Fried Seafood served in spacious, chic surroundings then this fixture on the local Chinese scene will definitely impress. Light pours into the open plan atrium from the restaurants two storey glass ediface, and delicately spiralling lights cascade from its high ceiling. Wooden floors and brightly coloured leather seating exude 21st Century class, and the private function room with karaoke ensures wayward warblers dont disturb the rest of the diners. Already a big hit with the locals and Chinese community... what more endorsement do you need? QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. .

Coco C-2, 7-11 Linenhall St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9031 1150, The former Roscoffs restaurant has been transformed into this elegant, yet unstuffy eaterie attracting the citys stylish set and tourists in need of top nosh. The small bar area - with eclectic decor and cool night-time vibe - opens up onto a larger dining space. Eye-catchingly contemporary art lines the walls (and can be bought), and a feature wall reflects the opulence with its leaf-embossed burnished gold wallpaper. Organic and locally sourced produce is served with equally stylish aplomb - and the seasonal selection ensures an ever-changing menu. Q Mon-Fri 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - late. Sat 18:00 - late. Sun 12:00 - 16:00. . J
6770, Every day is a fiesta at this big, bold Mexican restaurant. Zingy Latin America-inspired decor adds a colourful backdrop to the tantalising menu. Acapulco Chicken, Aztec Jambalaya and the Mahi Mahi fish dish are among the exotic eats designed to fire up your tastebuds. Fajitas, burritos, tacos and tortillas are served warming to volcanic on the chilli scale. And salads, steaks and Tex Mex faves ensure everyone is catered for - even the children. All this and equally scrumptious desserts and cocktails keep the party going... Ay, caramba! Q Sun-Thu 12:00 - 22:30, Fri & Sat 12:00 - 23:00. .

Chiquito C-2, Victoria Square, tel. (+44) (0)28 9043

times. Informal, family friendly (as with most Victoria Square restaurants, it has to be said) and super fast nosh. QOpen Mon-Wed 12:00 - 21:00, Thu-Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:30 - 21:00. . J 3124, Dine on delectable Northern Indian tandoori-cooked cuisine as you sing along to plasma screens showing Bollywood music. This large, modern restaurant does a particularly good trade in business lunches (free wifi for diners helps seal the deal) and has plenty of sectioned off space for private parties. Its food and spices are all freshly prepared and the family-owned establishment takes personal pride in its menu and service. Cobra, Kingfisher and Lal Toofan fans can enjoy NIs only selection of Indian beers on draft. And all those vegetarians among you will love the extensive selection of meat-free dishes. Its location, a few minutes walk from the Grand Opera House, ensures a steady stream of well-known faces eager to chow down on nothing but the best Indian food.Q Mon-Sat 12:00 - 14:00, 17:30 - 23:00, Sat until 23:30, Sun 17:00 - 22:00. . JW

Gingeroot B-3, 75 Gt Victoria St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9031

Zen C-3, 55 Adelaide St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 2244, So this is what 1m looks like in a restaurant. Likened to a James Bond set, Japanese restaurant Zen is a phenomenal addition to the citys cuisine scene. Inside theres a cocktail bar, a wall of glistening water and gilded lilies, an ultra violet stairway and sunken ta-tammi dining area. Groups are catered for in a series of wood-wrapped circular tables and encouraged to avail of the slippers. The spectacular glass-floored corridor of beaded light columns and mirrored ceiling is a nightmare to navigate when youve sipped too much sake. But who cares when youre in one of the most stylish restaurants in town. Special dining events including Cocktail and Meal Tasting and Asian Musical Evenings add to its fun and funky vibe. All this and the foods fantastic too!. Q Mon-Fri 12:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - late, Sat 17:00 - late. Sun 13:30 - 22:30. . J

Deanes B-2, 36 Howard St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9033 1134, NIs only Michelin star restaurant is run with panache by local celeb chef Michael Deane. After a recent make-over, his main dining space (others incude Deanes Deli and Deanes at Queens) returns resplendent of menu and a tad more minimalist. The locally sourced food includes Free range Fermanagh chicken and Walter Ewings smoked salmon - perhaps our most renowned fishmonger. And speaking of which, seek out the restaurants intimate Seafood Bar for a selection of marine morsels worthy of our island fare. Expensive, yes, but you gets what you pays for. Q Mon-Sat 10:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 22:00. . J Drennans B-4, 43 University Rd, tel. (+44 (0)28 9020 4556, Named after William Drennan (1754-1820), doctor, political activist and poet (he coined the phrase Emerald Isle), no doubt this visionary would approve of his namesake restaurant. The double-height interior gives this cosy spot a welcome feeling of space. Dark woods, greenery, curios and large artwork dominate; its as though you are dining in a gracious townhouse (which, we suppose, you are). A pianist evokes a party atmosphere, particularly as the evening progresses and the wine takes hold. And the small, ever-changing menu delivers classy fare with a local touch. Definitely one of Belfasts best, yet littleknown, eateries... hence the need to book ahead. QOpen 17:00 - late. Closed Sun.
9024 4421, Locally-sourced food is served with an imaginative twist and meticulous attention to detail at this casuall y chic bistro where redhead chef Simon McCances ever-changing menu and meet-the-crowd congeniality makes for a refreshingly unstuffy atmosphere. Q Mon 17:00 - 21:00. Tues-Thur 12:00-15:00, 17:00 - 21:30. Fri & Sat 12:00-15:00, 17:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. . J

Hill Street Brasserie C-1, 38 Hill St, tel. (+44)

(0)28 9058 6868, w w Up Belfasts cute cobbled Hill Street sits this stylish yet informal restaurant presents the best of local produce in a friendly contemporary setting. The traditionally-inspired menu includes Rump of Lamb with roasted onion puree, Baked Hake with chorizo and Fillet of Beef with a herb crust. Lunch and Early Bird specials make for an affordable dining experience in the extremely chic Cathedral Quarter. Q Tues-Fri 12:00 - 14:30, 17:00 - late, Sat 12:00- 16:00, 17:00 - late, Sun 17:00 - 21:00. . J 9023 4946, Pop in to this pop up restaurant where everything is for sale - right down to the upcycled furniture courtesy of local arty folk Re:Found. The menu has been put together by the team from Mourne Seafood Bar and encompasses morning coffee, lunchtime deli and delicious evening meals that celebrate our local food. The buzz is out so book ahead to secure your pew and plate. Q Deli: Mon-Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Restaurant: Mon 12:00 - 18:00, Tue-Thu 12:00 - 21:30, Fri & Sat 12:00 - 16:00, 17:00 - 22:00. -. (0)28 9043 4310, In recent years, this sophisticated restaurant has quickly established a loyal fan base as epicureans seek out the citys great plates. The 19th Century converted warehouse faade belies a strikingly clean and airy white interior broken up by a fine selection of contemporary Irish art. The big round tables and intimate bar are conducive to girly nights, corporate bashes and special occasions. Indulge in an international menu offering the finest selection of food locals have come to demand at this level. Q Mon-Sat 12:00 - 14.45, 17:45 - 22:45. Sun 17:30 - 21:00. . J

Home B-2, 22 Welling ton Place, tel. (+44) (0)28

(0)28 9020 2290, Amid the brash glitz of the citys more familiar restaurants sits this intimate brasserie filled with dusky candlelight, muted tones and a devoted clientele. Popular with the pre-theatre crowd and romantic couples, its relaxed, homely vibe will never go out of fashion. Game and fish dishes are the chefs speciality - try the pan-fried Donegal salmon with mussels and fennel. Q Tues-Sat 17:00 - 22:30. Sun 12:30 - 14:30, 17:00 - 20:00. Mon closed. .

Beatrice Kennedy B-4, 44 University Rd, tel. (+44)

(0)28 9024 8100. Belfasts biggest, and Victoria Squares only, buffet-style Chinese restaurant certainly serves up quite the feast. Choose your table, join the queue and fill your plate from a heady selection of Asian (and some Western) dishes. Favourites such as spring rolls, sweet and sour chicken and singapore noodles sit alongside ever-changing exotic eats like king prawn in chilli garlic, lime and pepper roast pork and mixed veg in oyster sauce. Soups for starters and scrummy desserts with soft ice-cream top and tail the all-you-can-eat

China Buffet King C-2, Victoria Square, tel. (+44)

James Street South C-2, 21 James St. South, tel. (+44)

Ginger Bistro B-3, 7-8 Hope St, tel. (+44) (0)28

Cayenne B-3, 7 Ascot House, Shaftesbury Sq, tel. (+44)

(0)28 9033 1532, The citys original Michelin-starred restuarant is owned and run by whippet-thin TV chef Paul Rankin. Its Asian-influenced menu is always innovative and rarely disappoints. The dark wood interior is lit in amber and the pale walls are etched with

Belfast In Your Pocket

October - November 2012


Mollys Yard C-4, 1 College Green Mews, Botanic Ave, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 2600. Inside this quaint Queens Quarter eaterie is a laid-back downstairs bistro and rustically elegant upstairs restaurant. Local produce such as beef, sea bream and venison feature in the Irishflavoured menu. And, as befits ownership by the good people behind Hilden Brewery, this former stables also houses Belfasts first micro brewer y. Mollys Chocolate Stout and Belfast Blonde are among the inventively-named, and pleasing to the palette, tipples. The restaurants bijouness and enduring popularity demand pre-booking to ensure a pew. Q Open 12:00 - 21:30. Closed Sun. . Nicks Warehouse C-1, 35 Hill St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9043 9690, Proprietor Nick Prices pioneering spirit transformed this former Bushmills whiskey warehouse into a top class restaurant way back in 1989 - at a time when the citys dining options were somewhat limited. Downstairs the red-brick wine bar and informal Anix still packs in the punters as does the more formal, intimate upstairs restaurant. The menu offers local and international cuisine and prides itself in its range of locally-sourced foods. Service is friendly and meticulous. Q Tues-Sat 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun. . J Potted Hen C-1, 11 Edward St, Saint Annes Square, behind St. Annes Cathedral, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 4554, w w O wners Dermot and Catherine Regan have brought their fresh, local produce sensibilities from Oregano, its sister restaurant in Newtownabbey, to this city centre bistro. Located in this pristine piazza and opposite the MAC arts centre, the stylish space reflects its cour tyard abode with a dark, slate grey floor and interior iron columns. The urban-cool vibe continues with plain wooden furniture, large feature clock, cream panelled walls and exposed duct work on the ceilings. Ascend the curved staircase, or via the roomy lift, to the new 50 seat addition which has increased customer capacity from 75 to 125. The menu often features such fine local eats as Finnebrogue venison, Glenarm salmon and signature Potted Hen Chicken Liver terrine served in a glass Kilner jar. The a tm osph eres as rela xe d as th e m enu is refin e d. Q Mon-Sat 12:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 21:00. -. J Salt Bistro C-1, St. Annes Square, tel. (+44) (0)28
9023 8012, This intimate dining space serves local provenance food in its chic yet casual surroundings. Light floods in from the triple aspect windows overlooking St. Annes Cathedral and the eponymous Square - home to the MAC theatre and gallery. And the artistic theme is embraced with work by local artists adorning its white walls - and available to buy. Pre-theatre options and made to share mezze, seafood and anti pasti plates evoke that laid-back dining vibe. While menu faves include steamed Dundrum mussels, roast quail and Glenarm salmon. Another classy restaurant in Belfasts latest must-see locale. Q 12:00 - 14:30, 17:00 - late. . J One of the most upmarket restaurants in town and a sure indication that the citys dining out scene has matured with age. The impeccably attired waiting staff, exquisitely prepared fusion food and contemporary interior attract a discerning clientele. Upstairs theres a private dining room for small groups, while downstairs the You want chips with that? Shu Bar stirs up a cocktail of retro funk beats and bistro eats... perfect for late night divas dripping with sophistication. QOpen . Closed Sun. Mon-Thu & Sat 12:00 - 14:30, 18:00 - 22:00. Fri 17:30 - 21:30. Shu Bar Fri & Sat 19:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. .

(0)28 9024 7000, Ditch Dominos and head for this intimate pizzeria ser ving Naples-style thin-crust dough discs with classic Italian toppings. Funghi, Pepperoni and Margherita will please the traditionalists, while the Morning Pizzas (Bacon and egg, Marmalade and demerara sugar...) bring something innovative to the table. A funky, rustic interior and fire stone oven adds to the cool, cosy vibe. Q Open 11:00. Closed Mon-Wed 22:00, Thu 23:00, Fri & Sat 24:00. Sun 13:00 - 22:00. . JS


Little Wing Pizzeria C-2, 10 Ann St, tel. (+44)

Out of Town
55 North K-1, 1 Causeway St, Portrush, Co. Antrim, tel. (+44) (0)28 7082 2811, This immaculate white, glass and stone restaurant overlooks Portrushs East Strand and is an unmissable landmark in the seaside town. The family-run businesss stylish decor and exceptional sea views sit sublimely with the fantastic food. Caf 55s 55 Fish Pie, Tapas Plates and Steak Sandwich are among the foodie faves. The main restaurants lunch menu features North Antrim rib eye and beer battered fish of the day. While evening dishes incorporate an equally sublime selection of fish, pasta, vegetarian and grills & meats. Q Daily 12:30 - 14:30, 17:00 - 20:30, Fri & Sat until 22:00. Cafe open Mon-Thu 09:00 - 17:00, Fri & Sat 09:00 - 15:30, 17:00 - late. -. Dundonald Old Mill Coffee House & Gift Shop L-3, 231 Belfast Rd, Dundonald, tel. (+44)

(0)28 9024 8544, Situated beside Kellys Cellars Irish pub, this extremely popular eaterie serves locally sourced mussels, oysters, langoustine and lots of other delicious marine morsels in a cool and unforced atmosphere. Food is cooked traditional style or with a continental or Asian twist, half dozen oysters and Mourne mussel pots make particularly appealing snacks. The gamut of gastro creations ranges from beer battered fish and chips to whole hot buttered lobster, with everything from locally-brewed ale to bottles of bubbly complementing the cuisine. Theres even a cute fish shop at the front (open Tues-Sat 10:0017:30) for take-home treats and an upstairs Oyster Bar and Cookery School. And, if fish aint your thing, the restaurant also offers prime rib eye steak and veggie options. One of the citys finest restaurants. Q Mon 12:00 - 17:00. TuesThur 12:00 - 21:30. Fri-Sat 12:00 - 16:00, 17:00 - 22:30. Sun 13:00-18:00 . J 4000, This former ships chandlers has changed its exterior from landmark blue to pale taupe and added steak to its acclaimed seafood menu. Inside, the mariner theme may have given way to a more contemporary dining experience, but the food is of the same exceptional standard, and the second floor is designed to reflect the decor of a luxury liner (albeit a small one). Inventive fish dishes such as curry roast monkfish and grilled sea bass with crab and chive mash share the bill with Irish Angus beef and other meaty delights. Still a Belfast institution, despite the repaint. The second floor is available for private dining with menus created to suit the client. QThur & Fri 12:00 - 14:30, Tue-Sat 17:00 - late. . J

Mourne Seafood Bar C-1, 34-36 Bank St, tel. (+44)

St. Georges Market Bar & Grill D-2, 1st Floor,

St. Georges Market, Oxford St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 0014, Overlooking historic St. Georges Market, the setting for this contemporary restaurant couldnt be more appropriate. Many ingredients used in its dishes are sourced from market traders, including Dry Aged Irish Sirloin, Roast North Coast Salmon and Portavogie Tempura Scampi. Stylish booths, and balcony seating with Fri & Sat market views, lend a sophisticated backdrop to your dining experience. Dark woods, subtle lighting and bygone photos add to the relaxed yet refined ambience, and the equally elegant bar area is ideal for a pre and post dinner tipple. Q Tues & Wed: 11:30 - 14:30, Thur: 11:30 - 14:30, 17:00 - 21:00, Fri & Sat: 09:00 - 12:00, 12:30 - 14:30, 17:00 - 22:00. -. J

Tedfords D-1, 5 Donegall Quay, tel. (+44) (0)28 9043

(0)28 9048 5030, Heading east out of Belfast, past Stormont and before Newtownards, youll see a sign for this unique cafe and gift shop. What makes it so special is the large wooden water wheel which, at 32ft in diameter, is said to be one of the largest in Ireland. Originally built in 1752, the Old Mill once powered a linen bleaching mill before conversion in 1850 to a corn mill powered by the wheel you see today. After closure in 1920, the mill fell into decline but was restored to its former glory in 1987. Todays wheel turns with electricity but still makes a magnificent first impression before you head into the cute gift shop and equally cottage-like upstairs cafe. Grab a homecooked lunch or coffee and scone before purchasing a posh pressie or two and heading onwards for a daytrip down the picturesque Ards Peninsula... nothing could be quainter. QOpen 10:00 - 16:30, Sun 11:00 - 16:30. . L

Shu A-5, 253 Lisburn Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 9038 1655,

4090, Inspired by travels to cities such as Paris, Madrid and Marrakesh, designer Fleur Jackson has transformed this small dining space into a bohemian wonderland. Ar twork, antiques and colourful crockery are thrown together in what seems like an afterthought, but you just know each piece has been lovingly placed. The culinary experience matches the candlelit decor, with tapas, kofta and vegetarian mezze among the Mediterranean dishes. And just when you thought it couldnt get any more seductive, co-owner Kyron Bourke tickles the ivories at his canopy-swathed piano, as an ever-changing coterie of cabaret artistes entertains delighted diners. Q Tue-Sat 18:00 - 01:00. Also Fri, Sat and Sun for lunch/brunch. . The Bar + Grill at James Street South B-2, 21 James St. South, tel. (+44) (0)28 9560 0700, www. Created by the award-winning owners of adjoining James Street Sou th, diners can expect the same local provenance and creative dishes at this laid back bistro. Steaks cooked to order on the charcoal grill evoke the sights and smells of a classic New York Steak House. And were particularly loving the retro-inspired desserts and decadent cocktails. Beautifully crafted starters, and pasta and risotto dishes served small or large, keep the tastebuds and budgets in check. Private dining and an onsite cooker y school cater for all you city-bound epicureans. Q Daily 12:00 - 21:30. -. J

Teatro B-4, 17 Botanic Ave, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024

Grandstand Restaurant L-3, Drumbo Park Grey-

Spanish & Latin America

La Boca C-2, 6 Fountain St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 3087, Vivid tones and cool canvases dominate this dining space recalling the bohemian dockside district of Buenos Aires. Argentinean-born chef Martin pays homage to his homeland with a Spanish-infused bistro selection of food and drink - most notably the authentic tapas, juicy steaks and Argentinean wines. Coffees and chocolate brownies will soothe snack pangs and art lovers will relish the ever-changing exhibition of local work. If youre looking for a cool city centre dining experience, you cant get much better than this. Free WiFi. QOpen Tues 12:00 - 20:00, Wed & Thur 12:00 - 21:00, Fri & Sat 12:00 - 22:00. -. JWY

hound Stadium, Ballyskeagh Rd, Lisburn, Co. Down, tel. (+44) (0)28 9061 0070, Indulge in a delicious three-course dinner at this stylish 300-seater restaurant overlooking Drumbo Park Greyhound Stadium. Among the locally sourced and elegantly presented dishes are smoked haddock fishcake, potted salt beef, dry aged sirloin steak and garlic and thyme confit chicken. And dessert goodies include blackberry panna cotta, mulled pear and Bramley apple crumble and a Winning Trio of bijou puds. Sweeping views, plasma screens and a dedicated tote assistant ensure you dont miss a race... or placing that winning flutter. Find it a beautiful country drive 20mins south of Belfast city. Q Thur-Sat 18:30 - 23:00. . L

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Belfast In Your Pocket


cafs & bistros

friendliest, most laid-back cafs in town... and with some of the best food too. QOpen 08:00 - 22:30, Sun 09:00 - 22:30. Also at (B-2) 5 Queen St, tel (+44) (0)28 9032 5592, open Mon-Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Thur 09:00 - 19:30. .

cafs & bistros

Grapevine C-1, 5 Pottingers Entry. Very easy to miss, but worth seeking out down a historic little alley, this small caf serves great value wholesome and homemade food thats a bit more adventurous than the norm at this price range. Were talking gumbo, beef stew with rosemary and seafood chowder, as well as the usual office worker faves of salads and sandwiches. They say food with soul and were inclined to agree. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. . J Harlem C-2/3, 34 Bedford St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 4860. This bright and breezy spot is perenially populated by suits and creatives from the nearby BBC thrashing out ideas over scrummy brunches, lunches and daytime treats. Seafood Chowder, pan-fried pork chop and French Toast with bacon and maple syrup are among the menu delights that keep folk lingering well beyond eat oclock. The decor is as stylish as the clientelle, but the vibe is nice and laid-back. QOpen Mon-Thu 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - late (bistro menu from 18:00), Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. . J Made In Belfast B-2, Wellington St, Industrial warehouse collides stylishly with thrown-together chic at this urban diner. Miss-matched furniture, lampshades and mirrors populate its double height expanse and scuffed floorboards hark back to the buildings fashion emporium past. The menu is as nostalgic as the decor, with retro fish finger sandwiches, coronation chicken salad and toffee flavour pokes (thats an ice cream cone to you) all for the asking. Ingredients are locally sourced where possible and occasionally organic too. Definitely the new place to chill out in the city centre. Find it off Donegall Square West and a second Cathedral Quar ter branch inTalbot St. QOpen 08:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. . J
tel. (+44) (0)28 9033 2445. Nestled between High Sts In Shops and St. Georges Church is this glorious little retreat named after its former resident milliner and sometime angel of the footpath. Damask drapes, velvet seating and dark walls are illuminated with mirrors, chandeliers and an open fire. Downstairs, a display of hat paraphernalia reflects Muriels less lascivious past. The food ranges from a great breakfast selection to all-day meat, cheese and seafood platters. Come the weekend, DJs play suitably eclectic background music for the stylish clientle. QOpen 08:30 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. . J


Crane View Kitchens & Dockers Lounge G-2, T13,

Queens Rd, Titanic Quarter, Dine like a docker beneath the shadow of those big yellow cranes at this canteen-style cafe. The signature dish bowl of stew, ginormous Belfast Bap and bottle of milk, followed by cuppa and bun, replicates the workers staple diet during the citys shipbuilding heyday. Platters pies and chips are also on the menu. And costumed guides serve up a theatrical side-dish of shipyard tales. Curios and furnishing from a bygone age are fashioned by on-site emporium Crafty Belfast. Find it in the T13 urban sports warehouse space opposite the Titanic Belfast visitor experience. Q Daily 10:00 - 18:00. Evening bookings advised.

7807, Its the future cafes that look like bars. And sitting opposite its big brother, the Duke of York pub, what else would you expect but a cool, laid back space reflective of its equally insouciant sibling? Dark wood panelling, stained glass lanterns and antique mirrors lend it a Gentlemans Club ambience. And the Victorian floor tiles, feature ceiling and leather seating continue the parlour-like vibe. Soup, sandwiches and free WiFi shore up the lunchtime clientele. And, though theres no alcohol, you can buy a pint and amble back from the Duke of York. Q Mon-Wed 10:00 - 18:00, Thu-Sat 10:00 - 01:00. JW

Dark Horse C-1, 30-34 Hill St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023

Brights C-1, 23-25 High St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9044 5688, Award-winning Ulster fries and sizzling fajitas sum up the extent of this spacious eaterys hugely popular menu. Locals have always loved it, and now tourists are joining them to sample plump, juicy and locally-sourced sausages that share plate space with regional classics such as soda and potato bread. Other indigenous fare includes Beef and Guinness Pie, Dublin Coddle and Colcannon - each served with a handy guide to their Irish origins. Frothy lattes and decadent desserts keep shoppers and suits happy too and the large H&W Belfast pics will leave you refreshed and ready for further city exploration. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30, Thu 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Also at 23-25 Castle St and Antrim Rd (take-away). . J Caf Conor B-5, 11a Stranmillis Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 9066 3266, Once the studio of local painter William Conor, this modern bistro caf is a great place to relax after exploring the nearby Botanic Gardens and Ulster Museum. The artistic theme continues with canvases displayed throughout its lofty skylighted interior. Theres a great selection of gourmet grub and the convivial atmosphere ensures a steady stream of stylish regulars. One of the most appealing restaurants in town. QOpen 09:00 - late. Breakfast served Mon-Fri 9:00 - 12:00. Sat-Sun 9:00 - 15:00. .
1300, This family-run caf/restaurant is a three-pronged attack on the tastebuds. Every evening, Pizza Renoir dishes up the Italian classics with an incredible array of exotic and traditional toppings. To its left, cosmopolitan types shoot the breeze over a creamy cappuccino and devilishly decadent home-baked cake. And upstairs, friends and lovers work their way through an eclectic international menu washed down with a hoppy German beer. One of the

Deanes Deli C-3, 44 Bedford St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 8800, Owned by Michael Deane, one of NIs top restaurateurs, this New York-style deli offers a chance to sample the Deane experience at a more affordable price. Eavesdrop on media types (the BBC is just around the corner) or make a beeline to the next door shop stuffed with all manner of fancy grub-to-go and Deanes branded goodies. The sit-in menu reads like a hymn to all things glorious about good, fresh food. Seafood, salads, sausages, steak... its all here and looking as fabulous as the sparkly clientle. Q Mon-Tues 12:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 21:00. Wed-Sat 12:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. . J Fed & Watered D-1, Obel Tower, 66 Donegall Quay, tel.
(+44) (0)28 9023 1723. Breakfast and lunch is served at this classy yet laid-back cafe situated on the ground floor of the Obel, Belfasts - and indeed Irelands - tallest building. Soups, salads, sandwiches and a selection of hot food keep those hunger pangs satiated before a riverside stroll, Titanic Boat Tour or walk across the Lagan Weir into Titanic Quarter. Tea, coffee and pastries also help lift the sugar levels - after all that sightseeing you deserve nothing less. Q Mon-Fri: 08:00 - 16:00, Sat: 10:00 - 16:00. -.

Coffee & Snacks

Caff Nero C-2, Unit A1, Fountain Centre, College St,
tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 8282, Blue and black signs for this caf chain are springing up all over town, but our favourite location is this two-storey space on Fountain Street. Leather sofas, lucious lattes and the usual assortment of paninis, sandwiches and sweets serve a busy lunchtime clientle. If its warm and dry, head upstairs and outside for a rooftop Fountain Centre perch. Youd almost think you were somewhere... QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. Also at (C-2) House of Fraser in Victoria Square, (C-1) Rosemary St. and (C-2) 4850 Ann St . JW 1827. One of the citys best coffee chains, locally-owned Clements boasts several locations across the city and a rather hip, young clientele, epseically in its Botanic Ave location. A range of top-notch coffees are prepared by award-winning baristas and the yummy sweets and scones make divine accompaniments. Squishy sofas and a selection of newspapers provide the perfect place for languid contemplation. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. Also at (C-2), 4 Donegall Sq. West; (C-2), Castle St; 342 Lisburn Rd; (C-1), 37 Rosemary St; (C-1), 131 Royal Ave. . J

Muriels Cafe Bar C-1, 12-14 Church Lane, off High St,

Caf Renoir B-4, 93 Botanic Ave, tel. (+44) (0)28 9031

Waterfront Hall), tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 5973, http:// Step aboard The Barge, the maritime museum moored beside the Belfast Waterfront, and turn left into this industrial chic eating space. Pale wood tables and chairs populate the cafe, and tall tables and stools afford on-the-river views. Food is served on wooden platters and the menu features some delightfully quirky touches... we love The Dockers Club Sandwich, The Sweet Shap dessert (including clove rock ice cream) and the Belfast Platter (locally sourced meats, cheese, pork pies and chutney). Seafood abounds, as befits its shoreline setting, so we heartily recommend you dive in and enjoy. Q Mon-Wed 10:00 - 16:00, Thu-Sat 10:00 - 24:00. . JWY

Galley Caf D-2, The Barge, Lanyon Quay (beside

(+44) (0)28 9031 3406, This stylish little bistro shares a side-street with the Duke of York bar and, like its neighbour, attracts journos, arty types and hungry businessfolk. The small, yet impressively global, weekend evening menu is as aspirational as the clientelle. A real Cathedral Quarter find. Q Mon-Thur 12:00 - 15:00. Fri 12:00 - 15:00, 17:30 - 21:30. Sat 18:00-late. Closed Sun. . J

Printers Cafe Bar C-1, 33 Lower Donegall St, tel.

Clements C-4, 66 Botanic Ave, tel. (+44) (0)28 9033

Spires Restaurant & Coffee Shop B-2, Spires Mall,

Great Victoria St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9031 2881. At the heart of Spires Mall sits this open-plan caf with a great self-service selection of salads, paninis and hot dishes including the all important cooked breakfast - to shore up hungry shoppers. Tea, coffee and traybakes (flatish cakey treats) keep the munchies at bay, and the soothing blues music prepares you for further retail fun. News junkies can keep an eye on the plasma TV or choice of daily reads. A real treat in the heart of the city. QOpen 08:30 - 17:30. Closed Sun. . J

The Dock Cafe G-2, Arc Apartments, Queens Rd, Titanic Quarter, Between the Odyssey and SS Nomadic, in a shop unit at this new apartment complex, is a pop-up cafe with a difference. Run by Titanic Quarter chaplain, and Titanic Walking Tour guide, Chris Bennett, and like-minded clergy, the cafe has an honesty box instead of a till. Which means you can choose how much you want to October - November 2012

Belfast In Your Pocket


cafs & bistros

Shops with cafs
Avoca C-2, 41 Arthur St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9027 9950, What this Irish style icon does so well is pull together a distinct blend of unique designer styles, gifts and accessories and mix it with fabulous Food Hall treats and cafe delights. The boho set has become well and truly ensconced, so why not join them in one of the citys most divine shops. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00, Thu 09:30 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. - J Bookfinders B-4, 47 University Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 8269. Grab a dusty novel and join the intelligentsia at the back of this shabby-chic secondhand bookshop. Students from nearby Queens University share its bijou space with well-known local writers to enjoy a menu of hot dishes (including fab soups and pasta) and monthly poetry, prose and drama recitals. No table or chair is alike, but that just adds to its no-frills charm. The perfect literary haven for soul-searching scribes. QOpen 10:30 - 17:30. Closed Sun. . W
(0)28 9024 6122, Zingy opal fruit-coloured picnic benches, big metallic lights and shiny white tiles welcome you into this spacious corner store and cafe. But this aint no ordinary shop, for sitting alongside newspapers and magazines is a galloping gourmands treasure trove of globally-sourced treats. Oreos, Italian Olive Oils and Asian sauces share space with local produce, and the cafe and take-out side continues the theme with bagels, burritos, subs and salads among the menu faves. Save space for the shakes, smoothies, and giant swirls of ice cream in fabulous flavours such as cream egg, bubble gum and strawberry cheesecake. Or re-energise with freshly ground coffee as the kids enjoy Sundays cupcake-making classes (check ahead). All this and the WiFis free. Q Mon-Wed and Fri 07:30 - 18:00, Thur 07:30 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. . JW pay for your coffee, tea and biscuit. Books, big sofas and beautiful NI travel prints from Holy woods Yard Gallery make for tranquil escape from your sightseeing sojourn. Q Tue-Sat 11:00 - 19:00. .

Contemporary bars The modernist exterior of this Cathedral Quarter fave swathes three floors of food, drink and music in super sleek surroundings. Weekends bring out the party posse and make this hotspot the life and soul of the citys coolest night-time hub. Q Mon-Tues 12:00 - 23:00, Wed 12:00 - 24:00, Thur-Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. JK


21 Social C-1, 1 Hill St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 1415,

Urban Soul C-2, 23 May St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032

5554, Located in the basement of May Street Church, this unique spiritual oasis is a world away from the citys insistent noise and buzz. Theres nowhere else like it in Belfast - a caf that practises Christian ideology with freedom of expression and creativity at the forefront of its ethos. QOpen Mon-Fri 10:00 - 15:30, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. . JW

Yummy Sandwiches B-2, Spires Mall, Upper Queen

St. entrance, tel. (+44) (0)28 9031 2881, This bijou food kiosk offers a bit more than the average city centre sandwich bar. Burgers, hot dogs, homemade soup, toasties and daily specials sit alongside salads, snacks and those all-important sandwiches. Theres a couple of stools and tables on which to perch as you eat before you hit the shops inside the stylish Spires Mall. QOpen 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sat, Sun. . JW

Apar tment C-2, 2 Donegall Square West, tel. (+44) (0)28 9050 9777, w w w.apar tmentbelfast. com. A familiar haunt for trendy young things searching for future bedmates through the haze of assorted cocktails and other potions. The views across the City Hall are spectacular - day or night - and the Asian and trad-modern food is superb value. The Ground Floor Apartment pavement-level space delivers a sleek menu dedicated to freshl y blended coffees and designer beers. Delish. Q Open 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. JKY Caf Vaudeville C-2, 25 Arthur St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9043 9160, A riot of ritzy glamour and rich hues dazzles beneath the stained-glass dome of this neo-classical former bank building. The upstairs Bolli Bar and ground floor flirting zone is favoured by the second chance at romance brigade (you get the picture). Cheesy retro tunes sit incongruously with the sumptuously ornate, chandelier-strewn wonderland, but the glammed up natives seem happy. Food is served late morning to evening. Q Open 11:30 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 01:00. Closed Sun. JKW Irene and Nans B-2, 12 Brunswick St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 9123, Time the bar staff with the kitsch 1950s Bakelight and starburst clocks as you jostle for position among the baying hordes. The dining area, cocktail list, resident DJ and lounging sofas provide day-to-night diversions for an upbeat crowd clinging to their fading youth: and any half-decent passer by. Q Open 12:00 - 01:00.Closed Sun. JK
0030. Students, young professionals and media luvvies from the nearby BBC gravi tate towards this popular downtown bar. Inside, theres a cool, modern vibe with comfy alcoves, window seats and high bar stools & tables breaking up the ground floor. The contemporary upstairs bar b enefi ts from subtle ligh tin g, studded aluminium panels, laid back sofas and a deep red and monochrome dcor. A great place to grab some delicious lunch and indulge in a civilised drink or three... Q Open 11:30 - 01:00, Mon 11:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. JK

City Picnic B -2 , 16 Ca stle St , tel. (+4 4)

Fish & Chips

Longs Fish Restaurant B-2, 39 Athol St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 1848. For almost a Century, Longs has been serving misers, minions and millionaires its classic chipswith-everything fare. The wood-panelled walls and formica booths provide an authentic chip shop backdrop for folk who like their food sans the fancy trimmings, designer vibe or faux-retro decor. Honest-to-goodness fried food from the oldest chippy in town. As they say in Belfast, you cant beat it with a big stick. Find it off Grosvenor Rd. QOpen 11:45 - 18:30, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. . JS Mr. JDs New Titanic Restaurant G-2, 222 Newtownards Rd, M3, tel. (+44) (0)28 9045 8383. This honest-to-goodness chippy, near East Belfasts shipyard and Titanic mural, has embraced the maritime theme with old photos, newspaper cuttings, Titanic models and other memorabilia. Maritime souvenirs including prints, t-shirts and postcards are also available to buy with some profits going to the Nomadic Preservation Society. Food-wise, opt for the 2-for-1 pastie lunch deal or go BIG with the Titanic Special 16oz cod with chips and peas. Segafredo coffee and Mr. Smoothie ice creams round off the grub. Seating for 60, a gluten free range and five-star ratings confirm its status and popularity amongst those in the know. Q Mon-Sat 12:00 - 19:00. Last sit-in orders 18:30. . Spuds B-4, 37 Bradbury Place, tel. (+44) (0)28 9033 1541. We simply love this counter-service chip shop for daring to offer students, suits and the slightly sozzled (its on the pub-strewn Golden Mile) a fantastic array of fast food. Yes theyve got the usual chips and burgers, but how about a baked potato filled with chicken in pepper sauce, lasagne and slaw or bacon, cabbage & mash to take away or eat in at their tiny metal tables. These Belfast guys and gals do it better than the big boys, so get stuck in. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. . S

Big Mouth. Eco sculpture at Queens University Library.

Spaniard C-1, 3 Skipper St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 2448,

Morrisons C-3, 21 Bedford St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032

Equinox B-2, 32 Howard St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 0089, For the more refined among you, this gloriously decadent store provides enough designer booty to satiate even the classiest recipient. An ever-changing window display hints at the designer homeware and gifts within. And when youre feeling peckish after all that retail therapy, head to the bijou cafe at the back of the shop. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30, Thu 09:30 - 21:00. Closed Sun. J Smyth & Gibson C-2, Bedford House, Bedford St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 0388, Upstairs in this bespoke gentlemans shirtmakers is a cute little coffee shop serving a small yet salient selection of hot brews and sweet snacks. A great place to flick through FHM or Harpers & Queens before continuing your shopping onslaught. QOpen 07:30 - 17:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Sun. . J
See also Aunt Sandras Candy Factory and Co Couture in Shopping (p.59). Wallpapered with vintage 80s record sleeves, and with just enough room to swing a straw donkey, this little watering hole is as cosy as it is cool. Afterwork and pre-club tipplers have made this Cathedral Quarter haunt their home. Its relaxed retro style is as kitsch as a Benidorm ashtray and, if you closed your eyes while sipping a cervesa, you could almost believe you were in Spain. We said almost. Look for the smiling Salvador Dali down the side of The Merchant Hotel and youre there. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. JK

Traditional Bars
Bittles C-2, 103 Victoria St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9031 1088.
This 19th Century structure resembles a mini version of New Yorks Flatiron building. Occupying a corner site near the Albert Clock and shiny Victoria Square, Bittles is a small bar steeped in history and attracting an older crowd by day and younger boozers late on. Originally called the Shakespeare, the literary theme has continued with portraits of famous Irish writers, including Yeats, Wilde and Joyce. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 11:30 - 19:00. JK

Northern Whig C-1, 2 Bridge St, tel. (+44) (0)28

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9050 9888, Once the offices of an old Belfast newspaper, this 19th Century listed building was reborn in the 90s as a big, bold bar/nightclub. Avoiding the obvious newspaper theme, the Whigs new interior is inspired by the Soviet Revolution. Three colossal socialist statues imported from Prague take centre stage, and the cocktail list features bolshy-faves Lenin and Archangel. The space is cavernous - rising up three floors - but its still packed every weekend with trendy sorts of varying wrinklage. Good food is served throughout the day. Q Open 12:00 - 01:00, Mon, Tue 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. JK

Crown Liquor Saloon B-2, 46 Gt. Victoria St, tel. (+44)

(0)28 9024 3187, Owned by the National Trust and without question Belfasts most famous bar, this is the first place tourists head for their inaugural pint of Guinness. Outside its a remarkable riot of mosaic tiles, and the opulence continues inside with more tiles, etched windows and an intricately carved ceiling. The snugs, gas lamps and long granite bar all hark back to the bars Victorian origins but the eclectic crowd helps this grand old dame keep her youth. Good nourishing food is served both in the bar and upstairs in the Crown Dining Rooms. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sun 12:30 - 22:00. JK

Belfast In Your Pocket

October - November 2012


Duke of York C-1, 7 Commercial Court, off Donegall
St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 1062. Hidden down a cobbled Cathedral Quarter alley off Donegall St. this fantastic pub pays homage to Belfasts industrial past and centuriesold newspaper trade. Art students, old hacks and media types come together to enjoy great live music and retro disco tunes in a decidedly unpretentious, super-friendly setting. Politicos among you may be interested to learn that Sinn Fein leader Gerry Adams used to be a barman here. Q Open 11:30 - 24:00, Mon 11:30 - 23:00, Thu-Sat 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. JEK of raconteurs, artisans, trendy types and shoppers from neighbouring Victoria Square. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. JEK

1984, Dark wood ceilings strewn with big glass lanterns, booths with button down leather and copper pumps and pipes retain a traditional Victorian vibe in the downstairs bar. And the elegant aura extends to the top floor room and back bar which also features a fabulous Venetian mirror, quirky display of barometres and, somewhat disturbingly, a dilapidated doll dangling overhead. Footy fans can watch live matches on the big screens and music fans can enjoy trad sessions and the Belfast Music Clubs DJ sets on Wed and Fri-Sun nights. Good food is served seven days a week. Q Open 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. JEK 9023 2322, The sign says Whiskey, Ales and Disco and that perfectly embodies this stylishly retro venue. It may have opened in 2011, but the bar instantly exudes a feeling of warm familiarity, from the vintage chic decor to in-the-know patrons. And by that we mean music lovers, arty students and drink aficionados - check out the Titanic Whiskey and great selection of brews. Thursdays music night is hosted by local legend Terri Hooley who discovered The Undertones an indication of the bars prowess and ambitions. Another positive step towards the re-invention of this side of the city. Q Mon-Tue 11:30 - 19:00, Wed 11:30 - 20:00, ThuSat 11:30 - 02:00, Sun 12:30 -00:00.

Garrick C-2, 29 Chichester St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032

Laverys B-4, 12 Bradbury Place, tel. (+44) (0)28 9087 1106, w w This threestorey drinking den has long been home to a colourful clientele of old boys, bikers, students and dead-heads. Its enduring charm makes Lavs one of Belfasts hardy old bars and an absolute must for pub crawlers and music enthusiasts. The complex mixes a trad bar at the front with cool and quirky live music and club nights in other rooms and poolhall at the top of the shop. Go on, fill yer boots. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 12:30 - 24:00. JEK McHughs D-1, 29 Queens Square, tel. (+44) (0)28
9050 9999, This revamped Grade A listed building dates back to 1711, making it Belfasts oldest bar (though others contest the claim). The beautifully restored faade faces pedestrianised Custom House Square - venue for many open air concerts and cultural events. Inside the bar youll find nooks and crannies crammed with salvaged emblems of Belfasts industrial past. The restaurant serves an imaginative traditional menu and the basement bar heaves with an older crowd tempted by its traditional music sessions, live bands and discos. Q Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. JEKY

Hudson Bar B-1, 10-14 Gresham St, tel. (+44) (0)28

John Hewitt C-1, 51 Donegall St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 3768, This much-loved Cathedral Quarter stalwart is as traditional as they come. Named after a local poet and socialist, the bar is privately owned by the Belfast Unemployed Resource Centre. All dark wood, real fires and board games; its the perfect place to relax with a pint and shoot the breeze with the customary band of scribes and boho-types. With awardwinning food, and regular jazz and Irish music sessions, its easy to forget this fantastic melting pot only opened in 1999. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 19:00 - 24:00. JEK Kellys Cellars C-1, 30 Bank St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 6058. Down a sidestreet off Royal Avenue lurks this 16th Century black and white bar, one of the citys oldest and, in our opinion, most authentic. Positively no pandering to tourists, designer cocktail lists or faux-trad nonsense. Instead, its all about the serious business of imbibing as the congregation worships at the high altar of Arthur Guinness and co. Regular outbursts of Irish music add to its unforced charm. Q Open 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. JEK Kitchen Bar C-2, 38 Victoria Square, tel. (+44) (0)28
9032 4901, Exposed bricks, painted girders and wooden beams retain a trad air amid a distinctly modern warehouse vibe. Visitors can enjoy a legendary Paddys Pizza (with hot soda bread base) and pint of real ale. Live music sessions attract a diverse blend

Monico Bars C-1, 17 Lombard St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 3211. Tiled floors, vintage mirrors and a strong sporting theme infuse this traditional city centre haven. The front bar is full of Belfast characters enraptured by the horse racing - and the sports motif continues with bygone photos and prints, and large plasma screens showing the latest action (the neighbouring bookies is handy for a sneaky lunchtime bet). The back lounge has live music every weekend, and pub grub faves such as Irish stew, steak and peppered chicken go well with the daily drinks promos. Find the entrance down historic Winecellar Entry, off Lombard Street. Q Mon-Thur 11:30 - 23:00, Fri & Sat 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 12:30 - 22:00. Food served Mon-Sat 12:00 - 18:00 Sun 1:30 18:00. . JEK
9024 7447, This colossal complex of five bars spread over three floors features Fibber Magees - an Irish back bar with regular folk music sessions, BT1 - a stylish basement bar with unisex toilets, Bistro Lounge and Roxy nightclub on the first floor and the main Robinsons bar at street level. The big Victorian buildings diverse decor is designed to appeal to all ages and nightlife tastes. And with the Grand Opera House right across the road, its very handy for a pre-theatre nosh-up. Big, as they say, is beautful. Q Open 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 12:30 - 24:00. JEK

Robinsons B-2, 38 Gt. Victoria St, tel. (+44) (0)28

Titanic Pub and Kitchen C-1, 2-14 Little Donegall

St, off Royal Ave, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 7214, www. Standing proudly between Central Library and the Belfast Telegraph newspaper, this 19th century listed building once housed a furniture company that provided mattresses to RMS Titanic. Today its a familyowned entertainment colossus whose traditional red brick and dark wood interior pays homage to the ships Belfast roots. Have a gander at the photos, stories and framed newspaper cuttings dotted throughout. Live weekend music and classy pub grub (Mon-Wed 12:00 - 18:00, Thur-Sat 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 14:00 - 20:00) evoke a welcoming atmosphere. While the resident mixologist concocts cocktails and hosts

Belfast In Your Pocket


masterclasses - you simply must try the Titanic Cocktail. Upstairs is a suite of 28 snooker and American Pool tables. QMon-Thur 11:00 - 23:00, Fri & Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 00:00. JEKW

Gay Belfast
Kremlin C-1, 96 Donegall St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9080 9700, A giant Lenin statue marks what many regard as Irelands number one gay hot spot. As the name suggests, a Soviet-style industrial opulence exudes throughout the complexs extravagant decor, with Tsar, Long Bar and Red Square continuing the communist-chic vibe. Theme nights encompass all manner of hi-jinx including fetish, foam and fancy dress. And frequent celeb performances make it the citys answer to Londons G.A.Y. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Wed. JE Mynt C-1, 2 Dunbar St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 4520, Blfasts origial gay venue is getting a major revamp. Until the opeing, cubbers can still enjoy late night fun and gigs at Kinetic (Fri) and Yello (Sat). JEK Union Street C-1, 14 Union St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9031 6060, Situated in a 19th Century shoe factory, this is one of the citys most stylish bars. The two storey-high interior of exposed brick, industrial pipes and pale green and chrome dcor gives the bar a cool yet comfy vibe. Its a popular pre-club venue beside the Kremlin nightclub. Theme nights can range from Bingo and Karaoke to quizzes and cabaret. Quelle fun. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. JK


Whites Tavern C-1, 2 Winecellar Entry, off Lombard St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 3080, Youll find one of Belfast oldest bars tucked down a back alley complete with honest to goodness cobblestones. Downstairs is all dark and brooding with peat fires and trad music to warm the soul. At weekends the upstairs bar becomes the haunt of locals in the know, from boho-chic students to those who wish they still were. The relaxed melee of eclectic styles and sounds embraces a cool clientele draped across sofas and a DJ perched in his lofty balcony. Dance, dont dance: no pressure. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Thu 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. JEK

Live music
Black Box C-1, 18 Hill St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 4400,, www.blackboxbelfast. com. The Cathedral Quarters latest intimate arts venue is home to music, theatre, comedy and many other eclectic nights out. Join the boho set in this delightful renovated building which consistently throws up some of the citys most culturally diverse nights out. JEY

Empire B-4, 40 Botanic Ave, M7, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 8110, This 19th Century converted church is a two-in-one venue with a comprehensive programme of live comedy, music and clubbing. Upstairs the Victorian music hall theme provides a sumptuous backdrop for live music performances. The basement bar serves great value food and, at night, becomes a hive of activity for beer connoisseurs. During term time (Sep-June), Belfasts longest running comedy club attracts top acts attempting to win over one of the toughest audiences on the circuit. EK Limelight/Spring & Airbrake C-3, 15-17 Ormeau Ave,
(+44) (0)28 9032 7007, On either side of Katy Dalys bar sit two of the best music venues in town. The older Limelight is a dark and moody music venue attracting an impressive line-up of emerging and well-known acts. The club nights are a big hit with the citys indie kids. Its neighbour has a more diverse live music policy with indie bands, rock tribute and alt-country regulars on the line-up. Always busy and always a good night out if youre seriously into your music. JE

(+44) (0)28 9032 2000, Four rooms across three floors make this the citys biggest nightclub. Its Ibizan origins have influenced the design, with a laid-back ground floor lounge, the first floors intimate Little Disco and exclusive Green Room and the top floors main space completing the club line-up. They say Superclub - and who are we to argue? Find it along the River Lagan walkway, heading east from the Hilton Hotel.QOpen Thur-Sat, Mon 21:00 - 02:00.

El Divino off D-2, Mays Meadow, Laganbank Rd, tel.

Sports Bars
Rockies D-1, Odyssey Pavilion, 2 Queens Quay, tel.
(+44) (0)28 9046 7020, From Wayne Gretzky to Wayne McCullough... local and North American sports stars memorabilia adorns every spare space of this shrine-like sports bar. Canadian owner, and former ice hockey professional, Jim Graves has left no puck, ball or jersey unturned in his quest to represent sporting legends from his native country, the USA and NI. And his dedication has unearthed quite a few Irish emigrants who became big players across the pond... providing Rockies with a fascinating Wall of Fame devoted to our forgotten heroes. Fans of the Belfast Giants and visiting teams make it heir bar of choice. A pool table and plasma screens enhance the sports theme. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.

M Club B-4, 23 Bradbury Place, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 3131, This church of cheese, high temple of tack, minster of madness (you get the picture) makes no apologies for its big, brash naughtiness. Outside, a giant block of flashing lights beckons swarms of half-dressed girls and post-pubescent boys, eager for a Saturday night of hot club capers. On Fridays, the 70s-themed disco attracts an older crowd reliving their glory days from the decade taste forgot. Stags and hens could do a lot worse. QOpen Tue, Thu, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 01:00. Downstairs VBar open Mon-Sat from 18:00.JE Rain C-1, 10-14 Tomb St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 7308, The kind of loud, vibrant and hedonistic club beat-junkies crave, theme nights encompass the usual rash of student nights, club anthems, house music and chart hits. The stylish red-brick space sits snugly at the edge of the Cathedral Quarter opposite the giant reflective Royal Mail building.QOpen 21:00 - 03:00 J

Find more pubs and clubs at

Belfast In Your Pocket October - November 2012


What to see
Essential Belfast
If youre on a whistle-stop day trip, join an open top bus tour for a 90min scoot round the major sights. Belfast City Hall, Botanic Gardens, Queens University and the Shankill and Falls Roads are all on the route, as is a brief diversion to Stormont with Belfast City Sightseeing (up to 14:00) and the Harland & Wolff shipyard, home of Titanic Belfast. Shoppers should head to Victoria Square. Then, if youve time to spare, head north on Metro Bus N1, jumping off at Belfast Castle, Belfast Zoo and Cavehill Country Park for unbeatable views across the city and NI. Stay on the right track with these keys (from p.21): WB = West Belfast EB = East Belfast SB = South Belfast NB = North Belfast

What to see
Crumlin Road Gaol and Courthouse
F-2, 53-55 Crumlin Rd, M 12, tel. (+44) (0)28 9074 1500, The foreboding North Belfast edifaces of Crumlin Road Gaol and Courthouse stand face-toface and are connected by an underground tunnel once used to spirit prisoners from the Gaol to the Courthouse for trial - and back if convicted. The Neo-Palladian Courthouse was opened in 1850 and is topped by a scales-free figure of Justice. Since its official closure in 1998, the building has been used as a makeshift theatre, film location and cinema. It is currently owned by a private developer and there are no plans for its future use. As a result, it is in an appaling state of disrepair having been targeted by arsonists, vandals and break-ins. Opened in 1845, the black basalt and red sandstone Crumlin Road Gaol (pronounced jail) was designed by Sir Charles Lanyon and inspired by the cutting-edge layout of Londons Pentonville Prison. The Gaols four Wings (A-D) radiate from a centre Circle and rise three storeys, with a fourth basement level. Each small prison cell was built for single occupancy, though many housed up to four cellmates during the 1970s. In the early years, inmates included women, children and petty criminals - some bound for Australias penal colonies. Suffragettes were also housed here before female emancipation following WW1. Throughout the Troubles, the Gaol witnessed many breakouts, bombings and rooftop protests. Inmates and internees of note (and for various reasons and sentences) have included Ian Paisley, Eamon de Valera, loyalist murderer Michael Stone and Shankill Butcher Lenny Murphy. Since its closure in 1996, the building laid derelict until recent restoration work and tours breathed new life back into The Crum. And, from 19 Nov 2012, the Gaol opens as the citys latest permanent visitor attraction. Conducted by trained guides, each c.1hr tour begins at the front entrance, taking visitors inside via the reception and Governors Corridor. You then descend into the tunnel where ghosts including The Victorian Gentleman are said to still haunt. The Circle, with its ornate wrought iron railings and spiral staircase, is the next stop before continuing down a restored wing and into one of the 550 or so cells. At the end of the wing is the Condemned Mans Cell - larger than the others as it also housed two 24hr prison officers. Seventeen men were executed at Crumlin Road Gaol from 1854-1961, and all but two remain buried in unmarked graves at the back of the complex. Your first glimpse of the original hangmans noose is guaranteed to leave even the hardiest of visitors slack-jawed. And the descent to the basement drop cell - where the dead man was left to dangle until sure death - will send a shiver down the straightest of spines. A short walk outside reveals the large back yard, old hospital building - and those unmarked graves - before you step back inside to explore B Wing. Left as it was when the gaol closed in 1996, this Wings Padded Cell makes for particularly eerie viewing. Conference and educational research facilities are available. And a new shop and cafe complete your unique day out. Q Daily 09:30 - 17:00. Adult 7.50, 4-15 5.50, U4 free, family (2+2) 22. Tours 10:00 - 16:30 daily. HRK


Buildings & Curiosities

Albert Memorial Clock C-1, High St. Belfasts most
prominent timepiece was built from 1865-1870 in memory of Queen Victorias husband, Prince Albert, who died in 1862. The 43m-high landmark is famous as Belfasts very own leaning tower. Like many city structures, it was built on reclaimed land on the River Farsets somewhat squishy foundations and currently leans 1.25m to the left. A two-year multi-million restoration project saw craftsmen working round the clock to spruce up its sandstone, polish its two tonne bell and add gold leaf to its four faces. The area around the clock was once the stomping ground for ladies of the night servicingvisiting sailors. J

Belfast City Hall C-2, Donegall Square, www.bel- A magnificent sight, especially when viewed from Royal Avenue, this imposing Portland stone and copper-domed building was completed in 1906 as a symbol of Belfasts new city status. Queen Victoria stands at the front, and the grounds are dotted with many more statues and monuments, details of which can be found on a large map at the gates. Check out The Bobbin caf, whose name reflects Belfasts linen-making past, and No Mean City exhibition. And take a free 45min guided tour for a behind-the-scenes glimpse at this iconic building. Q The Bobbin caf open Mon-Fri 09:00 - 16:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Free 45min tours: Mon-Fri 11:00, 14:00, 15:00; Sat 14:00 and 15:00. JKYh

20 Stops Including

Belfast Masts C-2, Donegall Place. Each of these eight 16.2m high copper structures is named after a White Star Line ship built in Belfast, among them Olympic, Britannic, Nomadic and, of course, Titanic. The masts feature large-scale banners, info panels at each base and are illuminated at night. J CS Lewis statue M4. G-2, Holywood Rd, M3. Stood fittingly outside Holywood Arches Library, this life-size statue is called The Searcher. It depicts the Belfast-born Chronicles of Narnia author as Narnia narrator Digory Kirke stepping into a wardrobe - no doubt in search of his mystical land. Sculptor Ross Wilson unveiled the bronze statue in 1998 - the centenary of Lewis birth. EB Custom House D-1, Custom House Square. The chiselled heads of Neptune, Britannia and Mercury gaze down from this stately 1850s Italianite building whose sweeping steps have long been a platform for protests and speeches galvanising the working man. Look out for the bronze sculpture of a Speaker representing this oratorical past. Victorian novelist Anthony Trollope used to work here, and is commemorated with a Blue Plaque. The pedestrianised Square provides Belfast In Your Pocket

Hop On - Hop Off 2 Hop Living History Tour On - Hop Off Wall Murals Titanic Quarter Parliament Buildings (Stormont)

Belfast CitySightseeing Ltd, Unit 16, Duncrue Industrial Estate, Duncrue Road, Belfast BT3 9B Tel: 02890 321 321 Fax: 02890 33 33 88
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October - November 2012


What to see
Belfast Visitor Pass
Explore more of the city and save money into the bargain with this 1-3 day tourist discount card. The Adult/ Child Pass costs 6.50/4 (one day), 10.50/6 (two days) or 14/7.75 (three days) and includes unlimited bus and rail travel on all scheduled Metro, NI Railways and Ulsterbus services within a specially designated Greater Belfast Zone. Discounts on tours, attractions, souvenirs, eating out and lots more goodies are also part of the package. To find out more visit the Belfast Welcome Centre (p.5) or buy on-line at www.translink. And look for the Y symbol on our listings for some of the participating companies. a sparkly space for Sk8er Bois, science toys, illuminated fountains tracing the reclaimed River Farset, Belfasts oldest drinking fountain for horses and the occasional al fresco or tented event. J making way for a new Hiberno-Romanesque-style Cathedral of Belfast. The foundation stone was laid in 1899 and the cathedral built in five stages across two centuries. The West Front, featuring Irelands largest Celtic cross, was completed in 1927 and dedicated to the victims of World War I. Though dedicated to St. Anne, Mother of the Blessed Virgin Mary, the Cathedral was originally named after Lady Anne Hamilton, wife of the founder of the original Parish Church. The Anglican Cathedral often holds inter-church services and past visitors have included Royalty and Heads of State. It is also the burial place of Unionist MP Lord Carson, regarded as the founding father of the NI state. The Cathedral was extensively refurbished in 1998 and, in 2007, a stainless steel Spire of Hope was added to the roof, rising 72m from the ground and providing Belfasts skyline with a shiny new landmark. Q Sunday services 10:00, 11:00, 15:30. Also open Mon-Fri 10:00 - 16:00. Jh Peters Square, off Falls Rd, M10, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 7573, This neo-Gothic twin-spired Cathedral off Falls Road was built in 1866 for the citys increasing Catholic population. The building was designed in 1860 by Father Jeremiah McAuley, a trained Belfast architect prior to entering Orders, and completed in 1866. Its magnificent twin spires were added in 1886 and dominate West Belfasts skyline. The tower holds a carillon of 11 bells and, following major restoration, the cathedral now boasts fine examples of high Victorian Gothic decoration. Q Sun Mass 09:00, 11:00 and 19:00. Guided Tours 1st and 3rd Sun each month, 12:15 from Cathedral Hall. hWB of the Zoos inhabitants. Some gradients are steep, and much of the Zoo is outdoors, so wear appropriate footwear and clothing.QDaily 10:00 - 16:00. Last admission 14:30. Adult 8, seniors and child (4-17) 4, U4 free. LKY NB

What to see
million archived images and negatives from 1983 to present day. Screenings and talks take place year-round. A new second gallery is dedicated to commissioning and collaborating new work in response to the archive. QOpen Tues-Sat 11:00 16:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Jh


St. Peters Roman Catholic Cathedral A-2, St.

Cave Hill Country Park F-1, Antrim Rd, M1, www. Belfasts most striking backdrop looms dramatically above the north of the city. Its craggy skyline rises 360m to the sheer cliff face of McArts Fort, named after 16th Century chieftain Art ONeill. This prominent landmarks instantly recognisable silhouette is known locally as Napoleons Nose, and the hill itself is pockmarked with those eponymous caves. Marked trails, suitable for all walking levels (we suggest you start your energetic stroll from Belfast Castle), guide you to the summit for unparalleled views stretching all the way to the Mountains of Mourne - its as though a map of NI has been unfolded before your eyes. NB Divis & Black Mountain (478m & 390m) off F-3, Divis Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 9049 1002, These twin peaks of limestone and basalt dominate West and North West Belfasts skyline. A BBC Transmitter masts sits atop Divis whose Irish name translates as black back. Thanks to a transfer in ownership in 2004 from the Ministry of Defence (who used it for army training and, allegedly, surveillance) to the National Trust, Belfasts highest peaks are now open to the public. The Trust has uncovered 2000 acres rich in biodiversity and archaeological interest, as well as constructing signs, paths and the Long Barn visitor centre. Walkers should be aware that this no Sunday stroll, though, and sudden changes in the weather can make conditions very treacherous. Ensure you come prepared- wear wellies and wet-weather gear and let someone know where youre heading. To get there take a Metro bus, walk or drive to the Upper Springfield Rd. entrance, then trek to the summit for amazing views stretching as far as Scotland on a clear day. L NB Sir Thomas and Lady Dixon Park off F-3, Upper Malone Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 9027 0467, uk/parks. This fantastic 48-hectare oasis, on the southern outskirts of the city, is a sweeping sea of rolling lawns and swaying trees and a masterclass in floral landscaping. Its main building, 19th Century Wilmont House, was taken over by the Dixons in 1919 and bequeathed to the citizens of Belfast by Lady Dixon upon her death in 1959. LK SB

Golden Thread Gallery C-1, Switch Room, 84-94 Great Patrick St., tel. (+44) (0)28 9033 0920, www.gtgallery. On the fringes of the Cathedral Quarter stands this red brick building whose ground floor houses one of Belfasts coolest art galleries. The stark concrete interior lends itself perfectly to changing exhibitions of paintings, photography and installations. Youll usually find students from the nearby art college contemplating the contemporary local pieces and scribbling a few inspirational notes. Find the Gallery 2mins walk from the back of St. Annes Cathedral and right beside Beggs & Partners bathroom showroom. QOpen Tues-Sat 10:30 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 16:00. Jh P.L.A.C.E. B-2, 40 Fountain St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023
2524, Stop by this small exhibition space next to the Linen Hall Library and discover the changing face of Belfast city. A joint project between the Royal Society of Ulster Architects and Belfast City Council, P .L.A.C.E. stands for Planning, Landscape, Architecture, Community and Environment. Urban and rural designs and architectural plans

Harland & Wolff Cranes G-2, Titanic Quarter, M94, Wherever you go in the city theres no escaping Samson and Goliath, two giant, moveable yellow cranes looming over what was once the worlds biggest shipyard. These engineering heavyweights stand at 96m and 106m high, 140m wide and were built in 1969 and 1974 respectively. Despite the demise of Belfasts shipbuilding industry, they are still in use and have been preserved as historic monuments. Unfortunately only workers and the chosen few can take the lift to their summit for spectacular views across the city. So, for now, resign yourself to enjoying Belfasts most iconic landmarks from ground level. EB Obel D-1, 62 Donegall Quay, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 3673, Belfasts big new skyscraper is 85m high, has 28 storeys above ground (and two below for car parking) and is the island of Irelands tallest building. The name derives from the phrase Obelisk set in Old Belfast. J Queens University B-4, University Rd, M7, tel. (+44) (0)28 9097 5252, Designed by Charles Lanyon and opened in 1849, this gothic masterpiece is said to be based on Oxford Universitys Magdalen College. Regarded as one of the best universities in the British Isles, famous alumni include President of Ireland Mary McAleese, Nobel Prize-winning poet Seamus Heaney and scientist Lord Kelvin whose statue is in nearby Botanic Gardens. Pick up the free, informative walking tour leaflet at the Queens Welcome Centre where you can also buy a range of Irish and QUB-branded souvenirs. Guided tours on request. Beside the Welcome Centre is the Naughton Gallery which houses regularly-changing art exhibitions. QOpen Mon-Fri 09:00 - 17:00, Sat & Sun 11:00 16:00. Term time Mon-Fri 09:00 - 21:00. YhSB Transport House C-1, 102 High St. Late 1950s socialist realism meets post-war Soviet art at the NI HQ of the Transport & General Workers Union (TGWU). The striking faade features a huge mural depicting giant marching men, an airplane and a ship - each representing Belfasts engineering heyday. Some like it, others loathe it. Either way, it could do with a good clean. J

Stormont Parliament Building

off H-3, Upper Newtownards Rd, M4, off H-3, Upr Newtownards Rd, M4, tel. (+44) (0)28 9052 1362, This 164-hectare public park provides an awesome setting for one of NIs most iconic landmarks. Climb the steps for an up-close gaze at the imposing Portland Stone structure and some great city views. Parliament Building was opened by Edward, Prince of Wales in 1932 and is home to the restored NI Assembly. The building stands at the top of the mile-long Prince of Wales Avenue behind a statue of Lord Edward Carson (Unionist MP regarded as the founding father of the NI State). It is topped by the figure Britannia, and nearby is Reconciliation, a small water sculpture depicting a couple embracing across a divide. Free guided tours run Mon-Fri 10:00 and 15:00 (hourly in July & Aug) beginning at the main entrance and taking in the Great Hall, Assembly and Senate Chambers, Committee Room and Library. And on Mon from 12:00 and Tues from 10:30, all you part-time politicos can watch MLAs in action from the public gallery. A small souvenir and coffee shop complete your Stormont experience. The park has toilet facilities and a fantastic childrens play area. YhEB

Parks, Gardens & Mountains

Botanic Gardens B-5, Stranmillis Rd, M8, tel. (+44)
(0)28 9032 4902, This meeting place for the citys students, families and couples first opened in 1895. Its grounds are a profusion of colourful flowerbeds, expansive lawns and magnificent trees. Take a steamy jungle walk in the Tropical Ravine or marvel at the collection of outstanding tropical flora in the iron-and-glass Victorian Palm House. The Ulster Museum and a statue of Victorian scientist Lord Kelvin are located within the grounds. SB

Belfast Castle F-1, Antrim Rd, M1, tel. (+44) (0)28 9077 6925, Beneath Napoleons Nose on Cave Hill nestles this 19th Century Scottish Baronial-style building presented to the city in 1934 by the philanthropic Shaftesbury family. Weekends are often awash with traditional white weddings, so wish the happy couple good luck then go explore the manicured grounds with their cute Cat Garden, stunning city views and childrens adventure playground. Apres stroll, indulge in high tea in the restaurant or rummage around the quaint antique shop. The interpretive centre contains info on the surrounding flora and fauna, Castle wedding pics from yesteryear and a roofcam affording closeup views of those city sights. Tours available LKYhNB Belfast Zoo F-1, Antrim Rd, M1, tel. (+44) (0)28 9077 6277, Over 1200 animals populate the 55 acre Cave Hill setting of NIs top feepaying visitor attraction. Among the 140 species living in its natural woodland habitat are Big Cats, primates, giraffes, zebras, elephants, penguins and sea lions. The Zoo also takes part in almost 100 international breeding programmes designed to save endangered animals from extinction. A Rainforest House, Bird Park, visitor centre and Zoovenir shop - as well as some of the citys best views add to a memorable day out. And lots of year-round fun and events give children (and adults!) a greater understanding

Museums & Galleries

Belfast Barge D-2, Lanyon Quay, Belfast Waterfront,
tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 2555, http://www.laganlegacy. com/. Belfasts maritime history is writ large on-board MV Confiance, the citys floating museum. Inside this specially kitted out vessel youll find The Galley cafe restaurant and, below deck, info panels, touch screens and interactive displays revealing the citys proud shipbuilding timeline. Find out about The Belfast Bottom, The Rat Killer and the Harland & Wolff-built SS Canberra. Then have a go at operating a model of one of the Samson & Goliath cranes. A unique location for a meticulously presented chronicle of what they call the greatest story never told. Look out for regular live music and other events in its small performance space, too. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Adult 4, conc. 3, family and combined ticket with Titanic Boat Tour 12. JHK 9023 0965, NIs only dedicated photography gallery is a favourite haunt of the citys art students and another cool creative space in the thriving Cathedral Quarter. The gallery runs contemporary community-based and international photography exhibitions and houses over half a

St. Annes Cathedral C-1, Lower Donegall St, tel. (+44)
(0)28 9032 8332, Dating back to 1776, the original St. Annes Church was demolished in 1903

Belfast Exposed C-1, 23 Donegall St, tel. (+44) (0)28

Belfast In Your Pocket

October - November 2012


What to see
are displayed, and locals can have their say on future developments. A programme of lectures and events further enhances the experience, but the best thing is its architectural walking tours. Stop by or call ahead for the latest trips and learn so much more about Belfasts built heritage. Q Tue-Sat 11:30 - 17:30, Thur until 19:30. Check ahead. for tour times and tickets J

What to see
Northern Ireland in WW2
War Memorial Gallery C-1, 21 Talbot St, tel. (+44)
(0)28 9032 0392, This small exhibition space near St. Annes Cathedral recalls the ravages of WW2 - both on the battlefield and during the Belfast Blitz. Artwork features strongly and attention is drawn to NIs wartime links with the USA. Indeed, items from the gallerys collection on the US Army are on display to mark the 70th anniversary of the arrival of the GIs in 1942. A bronze sculpture depicts half lifesize figures of a mother guiding her child through the ruins of Belfast on the morning after the blitz of 15 April 1941. Soldiers artefacts are also on display alongside uniformclad mannequins, shiny medals, propaganda posters and pieces of anti-aircraft shells. The most evocative exhibit, however, is a revolving reel naming each of the 1000 men, women and children who died during the Belfast Blitz. A WW2 war veteran is often on hand, so stop for a chat to learn more about the role Belfast played in this pivotal period of world history. QOpen Mon-Fri 10:30 - 16:30. Jh Ave, cnr. Belfast Telegraph. On the corner of the Belfast Telegraph building, a small section of pockmarked stone provides a tangible reminder of the 1941 Belfast Blitz. Over 100 German Luftwaffe planes bombarded the unprepared city on April 15, killing 900 people and injuring a further 2,500. A lone plaque on the stone tells how the newspaper published without interruption. J


Ulster Folk and Transport Museum L-3, 153 Bangor Rd, Cultra, Holywood, tel. (+44) (0)28 9042 8428, Stroll through this outdoor collection of lovingly-restored 18th Century buildings and let the costumed guides bring history to life. The transport section houses an impressive collection of steam trains, railway

Public art (and not a mural in sight)

The Big Fish aka Salmon of Knowledge: A 10m long, erm, fish, whose shiny blue and white ceramic scales depict moments in Belfasts history. Find it at the Lagan Weir, near the Obel, Titanic Boat office and departure point. Ring of Thanksgiving: Meet Belfasts t a l l e s t r e s i d e n t, a 15m high steel wo m a n s t a n d i n g on a bronze globe and holding a ring representing peace and reconciliation - a familiar theme throughout the city. The work is inspired by Dallass Thanksgiving Square and t o we r s o ve r t h e River Lagan, a short walk from the Belfast Waterfront. Waterfall of Souvenirs: A 5m high ceramic waterfall cascading down the Europa Buscentre and bypassed daily by throngs of commuters. Be one of the few to stop and contemplate its locally themed mosaic. The Speaker: At the front of Custom House, in an area once dubbed Belfasts Speakers Corner, stands this aptly-named lifesize bronze statue. The Squares surrounding copper lights continue the theme with their nickname the Hecklers. Spirit of Belfast: Unveiled in Sept. 2009, this largescale steel structure looms large in Cornmarket, where a bandstand once stood. The four interlocking rings sit at the heart of the city centres pedestrianised shopping area, and have been designed to reflect Belfasts erstwhile shipbuilding and linen industries. All good and well, but we prefer to call it the Belfast Scribble. RISE: Belfasts newest - and largest - sculpture comprises two white steel spheres, one within the other, designed to symbolise the sun rising on a new, vibrant city. Clearly visible from the M1 and Westlink, the 37.5m high and 30m wide eyecatcher is known by locals as the Balls on the Falls. Personally we prefer to see it as an homage to our recent golfing greats McDowell, McIlroy and Clarke. Fore!

Belfast Blitz Memorial Plaque C-1, 124 Royal

memorabilia, planes and horse carriages. Highlights include a DeLorean sports car, made in Belfast and star of the Back to the Future films. The Museum is 11kms east of the city centre on the main A2 Belfast to Bangor Road. The nearest rail station is Cultra Halt. Q Tue-Fri 10:00 - 16:00, Sat & Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Adults 8.50, child/conc. 5, U5 free. Family and individual museum tickets also available.LKYEB

Ulster Museum B-5, Botanic Gardens, Stranmillis Rd, M8, tel. (+44) (0)28 9038 3000, This eye-catching 17m hybrid of 1960s concrete and neoclassical architecture, features a 23m high atrium, and three Zones across four levels. As you navigate the glass and steel walkways, keep an eye on the Window on Our World gallery where iconic objects from each Zone - including a 6m long Edmontosaurus dinosaur skeleton - further fuel the imagination. Then spend the day exploring those History, Art and Nature Zones, where a bona fide Egyptian mummy, Spanish Armada gold and Peter the Polar Bear are among the myriad of attractions. The Gallery of Applied Art is said to house the best collection of its kind in the world outside Londons V&A. And other highlights include the impressive collection of Fine Art and costumes, and an exhibit on The Troubles. Children are positively encouraged to get up close and interactive with exhibits in the Discovery areas. And everyone can discover their own treasures at the gift shop and enjoy lunch in the ground floor restaurant overlooking Botanic Gardens. QTues-Sun 10:00 - 17:00. HKWYhSB

ceiling are worth a peek. And the adjoining Newspaper Library, houses NIs largest collection of local and Irish newspapers, some dating back to the 1700s. Chapter One caf and regular events and exhibitions will feed the body and mind. Internet access payable for non-members (ID required). QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Fri 09:00 - 17:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:30. Closed Sun. JRKh

D-1, Odyssey Comp l e x , 2 Q u e e n s Q u a y, t e l . (+ 4 4) (0)28 9046 7700, w w w.w5 o nlin e. NIs only science and discovery centre has over 250 interactive exhibits across four dynamic exhibition areas, and a changing programme of workshops, events and exhibitions. Its location in the Odyssey Complex affords fantastic views across the Harland & Wolff shipyard and Titanic Belfast. Great fun for young Einsteins and a learning experience at any age. Open Mon-Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Last admission 1hr before closing. Adults 7.90, 3-16 5.90, Conc. 6.40, U3 free. Family and season tickets available. LKYEB photographs. And PRONIs extensive website has information on how to research your family history, its searchable online resources including 19th Century Street Directories, the Ulster Covenant and Wills. The eCatalogue is updated regularly, and PRONIs on-line guide to Church records provides details on surviving historic parish registers for NI. PRONI staff cannot undertake research for you but can help and advise with the process. Use of facilities is free and includes a small cafe. Look out, too, for the atriums impressive collection

Linen Hall Library C-2, 17 Donegall Square North, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 1707, Founded in 1788, Belfasts oldest library is a focal point for the citys cultural community who love to leaf through the books or simply enjoy those fantastic views across the City Hall. If youre into the history of the Troubles, seek out its unrivalled Northern Ireland Political Collection of books, posters, leaflets and propaganda. A gift shop, caf, tours, readings and lectures all add to the librarys effortless charm. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30, Sat 09:30 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JKYh
off D-1, 2 Titanic Boulevard, Titanic Quarter, tel. (+44) (0)28 9053 4800, Established in 1923 following the formation of Northern Ireland, PRONI is the official place of deposit for NI records. Over three million official and privately deposited archives mainly, but not exclusively, relating to NI are held on its premises. Such a comprehensive collection means that, if you want to trace your NI roots, a visit to PRONIs new state-of-the-art premises is a must. This cathedral-like, purpose-built Titanic Quarter HQ houses a spacious Public Research Room with suite of laptops and power points, and equally capacious Public Reading Room where ordered documents can be researched and copied. Thousands of documents of value to family historians include church records, valuation books and maps, letters, diaries and

Public Record Office of Northern Ireland (PRONI)

Libraries & Archives

Central Library and Newspaper Library C-1, Royal Ave, tel. (+44) (0)28 9050 9150, This red sandstone and black granite building was opened in 1888 - the same year Belfast achieved city status. The grand staircase and first floor Reading Room with fine domed

Belfast In Your Pocket

October - November 2012


What to see
Bus, Car & Walking Tours
Belfast City Sightseeing Bus Tour C-1, Castle Place,
tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 1321, This open-top bus takes a 90min, 8km round-trip along some of the citys most impressive and evocative sights and includes 21 hop-on/hop-off points. Starting at Castle Place, the tour dips into the Titanic Quarter and (until 14:00) glides past Stormont before heading West to the Shankill and Falls Roads. The return leg passes through the sedate Queens Quarter, before heading back to base. The commentary is as entertaining as it is enlightening, with the guides cracking Troubles-related jokes only a local could get away with. QDept. 10:00 - 16:30. 12.50/10.50, 4-12 6.50, family (2+3) 31, U4 free. Y


In a part of Belfast where two cultures collide, tourism bodies are working together to revitalise the area and make it visitor-friendly. Lots of tourists want to see for themselves the recent political history of this divided city and, in doing so, are often surprised at just how close these two communities sit... the Unionist Shankill and Nationalist Falls side-by-side, divided only by a Peace Line. With both sides making a concerted effort to attract visitors, its worth taking time out from the main attractions to visit these vibrant areas. Hop off the Open Top Bus or take a Metro bus or Black Taxi and explore at your leisure.


Conway Mill F-2, 5-7 Conway St, M10, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 6452, West Belfast evolved as country people moved to the city to work in its 32 mills. Though many have gone, this imposing 19th century linen mill remains, and today houses an art gallery with regular exhibitions from local artists studios. The Irish Republican History Museum has been set up by a local community group and consists of artefacts and archive material from former prisons. The Museum is open Tues-Sat 10:00-14:00 or on request for group tours. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Cultrlann McAdam Fiaich off F-3, 216 Falls Rd,

Falls Road F-2/3. M10 Bi-lingual street signs and fluttering

Belfast Photographic Tours tel. (+44) (0)28 9070 5525, (+44) (0)7791 025778, www.belfastphototours. Capture Belfast and NIs finest sights and learn how to take better photos in the process. Walking, half & full day and bespoke tours available. Equipment and transport provided. Belfast Walking Tours C-2, Belfast Welcome Centre,
47 Donegall Place, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 6609, www. Take Shanks Pony (shanks being your legs) on several specialised city tours, including Literary, Art, Music, Pub, Food, Ghost and CS Lewis. For more details visit the Belfast Welcome Centre (p.5). Y

Irish flags are the first things visitors often notice when they walk along the Falls. The area is becoming known as the Gaeltacht Quarter, with many shops and businesses offering Irish-language service and accepting Euros. Of the roads many historical and political murals, the most photographed is on the side of the Sinn Fein offices and features IRA hunger striker Bobby Sands. For tourist info visit

Titanic & City Bus Tours C-2, dept. beside Victoria

of artwork, including a large-sale John Hewitt poem, display of paper scrolls in porcelain and several pieces by renowned local artist Rita Duffy. Paid parking is via the main Odyssey car park with a short walk to PRONI and Translink also run a Metro Bus service to the area. Children U14 must be accompanied by a responsible adult. Photo ID required. No appointment necessaryQOpen Mon-Wed & Fri 09:00 - 16:45, Thu 10:00 - 20:45. HRLKWh

Square, Chichester St, tel. (+44)(0)28 9032 1912, This live guide hop-on, hop-off open top bus tour journeys from the city centre to Titanic Quarter, before returning via Dee St and on to West Belfast and the Queens Quarters sites and attractions. Each circuit takes 90min and tickets last 48hrs, so jump off at any of the 17 stops for a closer inspection of some of the citys most interesting neighbourhoods. Look out for the eye-catching black Titanic buses emblazoned with nautical portholes. Q Dept. 09:45 - 16:00 at least every 30mins. 12.50/10.50, 2+3 31. bly Buildings, cnr. Howard St and College Sq (opp Jurys Hotel), tel. (+44) (0)7888 685206. As tours go, they dont get much more head-turning than this. An authentic DeLorean sports car transports you through the city and on to the original car factory and home of creator John DeLorean. The star of the Back to the Future movie was built just outside Belfast and the story behind this iconic car is as colourful as it is cautionary. Back at its Spires Mall base, you can view an exhibition, buy DeLorean, Irish, Guinness and Titanic gifts and, for 5.95, have your photo taken in the car. Talk about a trip back in time. J

DeLorean Tours & Exhibition B-2, Spires Mall, Assem-

Clonard Gardens, off Falls Rd., M10, tel. (+44) (0)28 9044 5950, www.clonard. com. Built in 1911 in early French Gothic-style, and boasting a 6m-wide stained-glass rose window, this imposing church an d m onaster y is home to the Redemptorists. This Catholic movement was founded in Italy in 1732 and its story is depicted in floor and ceiling mosaics. The interior also features red granite, Portland stone and marble columns. The crypt was used as a WW2 air-raid shelter and contains the bodies of over 20 priests - one of them the architects son. Each June Clonard Church hosts a nine-day Festival of Faith when 15,000 daily pilgrims pray at the shrine of Our Mother of Perpetual Help. It is a spectacular sight and well worth a visit if youre in town. Outside this time, the Church is also used as an impressive backdrop for occasional music performances. Q Sun Mass 07:00, 09:00, 11:00, 12:30.

Clonard Monastery F-2,

tel. (+44) (0)28 9096 4180, First stop for all tourists has to be this newly extended three-story landmark where the Irish language plays a central role in culture and the arts. Housed in a former Presbyterian church and named after two 19th Century protagonists of the Irish language revival, the centre was established in 1991 and has a restaurant, theatre, art gallery, book & gift shop and monthly cil (traditional Irish music and dancing sessions). Culturlann provides the focal point for Augusts West Belfast Festival and is also the official West Belfast Tourist Information Point. KWY

City Cemetery off F-3, Falls Rd, M10, www.belfastcity. Complete with bell and cast iron fountains, this Victorian cemetery was opened in 1869 as Belfasts first cross-denominational burial ground. In 1916 sections were set aside for the citys Jewish community and the burial of deceased sailors and soldiers. The war connections continue with a monument to those killed in the 1941 Belfast Blitz and a Memorial Cross in honour of locals killed in action in WW2. The cemetery is the citys largest with around 250,000 burials and, curiously, a sunken wall dividing Protestant and Catholic plots. Many of Belfasts prominent figures from its industrial, religious and political past are buried here including Viscount Pirrie, former Lord Mayor and controller of Harland & Wolff shipyard during Titanic, Sir Edward Harland, former MP , Mayor and one of the shipyards founders and Daniel Joseph

Red Barn Gallery

C-1, 43a Rosemary St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 1901, Down a wee lane beside Rosemary Street Church nestles this cavern-like art space featuring work from local or locally-based photographers, painters and sculptors. Images and artwork depicting the Troubles sit alongside those reflecting todays exuberant Belfast - and all the pieces are for sale and searchable on the on-line archive. Call in, browse the latest exhibit and grab yourself a real talking-point souvenir.QMon-Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Jh Oct-Nov Exhibition: The Light of Other Days/Solas R Eile Taken over the last 30 years, the photographs of Jim Maginn combine formal and documentary portraits of some of the major figures in the field of Irish traditional music. Choosing to celebrate the lives of his subjects, Maginn has captured many of the last of this generation of musicians, some now gone, who kept the music alive before the folk revival of the 1960s secured its future. A series of talks and workshops by Jim Maginn will accompany the exhibition.

Belfast Mural Tours

Experience a unique journey into the past. Dont just see the murals...hear them. Friendly and knowledgeable guides take you on an unforgettable journey into the most recent conflict in Irish history as they interpret the stories behind the world famous Belfast murals. Tel. (+44) (0)7846 687085,

1. Divis Tower 2. St. Peters Cathedral 3. International Wall 4. Falls Remembrance

Garden 5. Conway Mill 6. Bobby Sands Mural 7. Clonard Monastery

8. Royal Victoria Hospital 9. Cultrlann McAdam Fiaich 10. Rise Sculpture 11. James Connolly Plaque

12. City Cemetery 13. Bog Meadows 14. Falls Park 15. Milltown Cemetery

Belfast In Your Pocket

October - November 2012



Jaffe, a linen merchant and builder of Belfasts first synagogue. Former Belfast Lord Mayor Tom Hartley is an expert historian on the cemetery and runs occasional tours. Find out more at An Culturlann.


With acres of beautiful scenery and a sprinkling of historic attractions, heres the best this wee nook has to offer. Small enough to explore in a few days, its time to hit the open road and see for yourself. TIC = Tourist Information Centre.


Milltown Cemetery off F-3, 546 Falls Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 9061 3972. This 1872 Roman Catholic cemetery is a must-see in anyones modern history tour of Belfast. Its entrance features a Victorian Romanesque gateway and large Celtic cross adorned with Biblical scenes. Inside, the Republic Plot has several high-profile IRA graves, including 1981 hunger striker Bobby Sands, and Mairad Farrell, killed by the SAS in Gibraltar in 1988. A vast expanse of green space is the unmarked burial site of over 80,000 victims of the 1918 pandemic flu. West Belfast Taxi Association (TaxiTrax Tours) B-1, 35a

Mural showing Edward Carson signing the Ulster Covenant

Peace Walls

Giants Causeway rocks Download a detailed, interactive route map at the Causeway Coast and Glens website. Or pick up a free copy at any TIC or by giving them a call on 7032 7720. Giants Causeway Visitor Centre eraine, Co. Antrim, tel. (+44) (0)7032 7720, www. Regarded as one of the worlds great coastal roads - and right up there with South Africas Garden Route and Californias Pacific Highway - the Causeway Coastal Route is an absolute must for any visitor to Ireland - north or south. The recently signposted journey begins on the fringes of Belfast; follow the M5 before veering off to begin your coastal hug, passing by Carrickferguss magnificent Norman Castle and detouring into the hidden gem that is Islandmagee. The Route continues its dramatic journey edging the Irish Sea and taking in charming towns and villages such as Glenarm, Cushendun and the breathtaking Torr Head. A fur ther detour through the Glens of Antrim unveils emerald hills, rushing waterfalls and woodland walks. The world famous Giants Causeway, Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, Bushmills Distillery and Dunluce Castle make a mighty foursome as you continue along the North Antrim Coast. Stop off for tea at Portrush or Portstewart then continue to Limavady and the beautiful Roe Valley before ending your journey in the vibrant city of Derry. Take a day or two to fully explore the sights, myths and legends that make up this unique landscape... there are some lovely places to stay en route.

King St. (behind CastleCourt), tel. (+44) (0)28 9031 5777, These Londonstyle Black Hackney cabs arrived in West Belfast at the height of the Troubles and provided an invaluable hop-on, hop-off service when regular schedules were severely disrupted. Though the Troubles are a thing of the past, the black taxis remain and are very much a part of the local community. Driven and guided by a native in the know, TaxiTrax offer Wall Murals, Historical, Political, Titanic and Belfast Landmarks Tours. City centre hotel pick-ups can be arranged to ensure a hassle-free adventure. Q 90min Belfast City tours. 10pp, min 3 people.

Ards Peninsula L/M-3, Ards TIC, 31 Regent St,

Newtownards, Co. Down, tel. (+44) (0)28 9182 6846, www.ards- Stretching from the market town of Newtownards and separating the shores of Strangford Lough and the Irish Sea, this gently undulating landscape is a scenic mix of pretty villages, rugged seascapes and unspoilt coastline. Drive the loughhugging Portaferry Rd from Nards, stopping at magnificent Mountstewart House and Gardens and the historic village of Greyabbey with its namesake Cistercian ruin, cute antique shops and home-cooking cafs, then take the short ferry trip from Portaferry to Strangford. Or discover th e oth er side o f th e Peninsula wi th i ts tradi tion a l s e a s i d e s to p s s u c h a s D o n a g h a d e e a n d M i l lisle, and quirk y Ballycopeland Windmill. And, west o f th e Lou gh, C omber town is equall y pret t y, an d home to Castle Espie Wetland Centre. Find out lots more at Ards TIC or (seasonally) Portaferry TIC.

Causeway Coast & Glens 11 Lodge Rd, Col-

Shankill Road F-2. M11 The Shankill dates back to the Stone Age and is Belfasts oldest settlement. Shankill Road was named in 1831 after the Gaelic Sean Cill meaning Old Church. Today it is a bustling street with shops, snack stops, the Spectrum Centre and the Shankill Memorial Garden. Take a couple of hours to explore its Peace Walls and murals resplendent with Union Jacks and tributes to the Royal Family. One mural of note, beside the Rex Bar, depicts Unionist MP Edward Carson leading the signing of the 1912 Ulster Covenant which opposed Irish Home Rule and was also signed by close to half a million men and women. This year marks its centenary, and you can view the document, and search it online, at PRONI (p.47).

Since the onset of the Troubles in 1971, many Nationalist (Catholic) and Loyalist (Protestant) communities throughout Northern Ireland have been divided by Peace Walls. These large stone and steel constructions were designed to protect neighbourhoods from sporadic attacks and retain a sense of peace and protection. Of the citys walls, West Belfasts sections are the most visited. You can cross from one side to the other via access roads at Lanark Way (F-2) and Northumberland Street (A-1). And the best place to photograph contemporary artwork - and add your dawbs to the walls - is along the Shankill side of Cupar Way, off Lanark Way. These roads close in times of heightened tension, which may well be the case during the summer marching season. Otherwise, its safe - nay positively encouraged - to make the trip to Belfasts biggest, and most infamous, outdoor art gallery.

Rise sculpture aka the Balls on the Falls

Mount Stewart, Ards Peninsula

Nor th Down Bangor TIC L-3, 34 Quay St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9127 0069, www.northdowntourism. com. Stretching along the Bel fast Lough sh oreline, and spreading across 50sq miles, North Downs outdoor highligh ts include sand y b each es, countr y parks, quaint villages and historic sites. Bangor is the areas main town and Holywood its stylish smaller sibling. Both are within easy reach of Belfast - with Bangor 12miles away and Holywood just six miles. Home to one of Irelands largest and Blue Flag Awardwinning marinas, Pickie Family Fun Park and an abundance of seafront hotels and B&Bs, Bangor is a haven for sailors and daytrippers in search of some seaside japes. The towns North Down Heritage Centre features the history of Bangor (one of only four Irish places on the 13th Century Mappa Mundi map), the life of Irish songwriter Percy French and a programme of year-round events and exhibitions. The nearby village of Groomsport is also worth a detour, with its charming seaside setting and Cockle Row thatched fishermens houses. October - November 2012

Belfast In Your Pocket



Erne-Shannon waterway. Try to see the pretty town of Belleek - famous for its pottery, Marble Arch Caves - complete with glistening stalactites and cascading waterfalls, and Castle Coole - an 18th Century mansion set in a landscaped park and owned by the National Trust. Were merely dipping our toes into Fermanaghs lakeland setting so, to find out more about this amazing waterworld, ask for the regions tourism brochures at Enniskillens TIC.


water sports, horse riding and even micro-light flying on offer for adventurous types. While more sedate souls can indulge in a spot of walking, angling and golf. For the less energetic, four signposted scenic driving routes cover the North, South, East and Central Sperrins. Each 50-90 mile circular drive takes in this undulating landscape via market towns, manor homes and verdant wooded glens. Its a fantastic way to discover the Sperrins at your own pace, stopping off to explore historic sites and Ice Age carved landscapes stretching all the way from the Donegal border to the edge of the River Bann. Pick up these handy maps, with lots of info on visitor attractions en route, at any Tourist Information Centre. Or get in touch with Sperrins Tourism and order your personal copy.


Lisburn City L-3, Lis-

Armagh Citys cathedral skyline

Armagh City Armagh TIC, 40 English St, tel. (+44) (0)28 3752 1800, Armagh is Irelands oldest city and its ecclesiastical capital, with the spires of St. Patricks Church of Ireland and Catholic Cathedrals dominating the skyline. Patrick built his first church on the site of the Church of Ireland Cathedral way back in 445AD and declared Armagh the home of Christianity in Ireland. The Catholic Cathedrals site was said to be chosen prophetically when our saintly hero saved a fawn from capture and carried it to safety on the hill. Todays Armagh retains strong religious links and is also a city of historical monuments, museums and heritage sites. Striking Georgian buildings overlook the emerald green Mall and nearby winding streets reveal cute cafes and shops as well as high street names. Find out more about the citys Palace Stables, St. Patricks Trian, Navan Centre, Armagh Museum, Planetarium and other Orchard County attractions by getting in touch with the Tourist Information Centre. A great daytrip option. Fermanagh Lakelands I-4, Fermanagh TIC, Wellington
Rd, Enniskillen, tel. (+44) (0)28 6632 3110, www. NIs most tranquil county is a stunning landscape of silvery lakes, green fields and verdant forests. Bustling Enniskillen is the perfect place to drop anchor before, during or after navigating the magnificent lakelands or

burn Tourist Information Centre, 15 Lisburn Square, tel. (+44) (0)28 9266 003, Lisburn was granted city status by the Queen in 2002. Situated just 10 miles south of Belfast, it is regarded by many as NIs fastest growing metropolis. Day trippers and overnighters can enjoy a revitalised cultural and historical edge... and some of the best shopping in NI. Bow Street Mall, gentrified Lisburn Square and, a short drive away, Sprucefield Shopping Centre form the citys main shopping areas. Lisburns rebranded Historic Quarter dates back to the 17th Century and its rebuilt streetscape remains pretty much unchanged to this day. It is home to the Irish Linen Centre & Lisburn Museum where interactive exhibitions focus on the Irish linen industry and local history. Theres also a very popular on-site cafe and gift shop. The Island Arts Centre is a shiny, state-of-the-art cultural centre with eye-catching outdoor water jet and sculpture trail. Sports fans can have a flutter at Down Royal Raceourse, and Drumbo Greyhound Stadium or check out local football team Lisburn Distillery at New Grosvenor Stadium (beside the greyhound track).

Mourne Country L-4, Newcastle TIC, 10-14 Central

Promenade, tel. (+44) (0)28 4372 2222, NIs main mountain range may not be the Rockies, but what it lacks in stature it makes up for in picture-postcard beauty. The Mournes extend from the seaside town of Newcastle in the north to the quaint village of Rostrevor in the south. Man-made stone walls criss-cross green fields as Slieve Donard (NIs highest mountain) looks down from its 852m granite peak. Designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, the Mournes are in line to become NIs first National Park. Newcastle is the areas main urban attraction, and the inspiration behind songwriter Percy Frenchs Where The Mountains of Mourne Sweep Down To The Sea (ask nicely, and a local may sing you a snippit). Long the summer destination of local holidaymakers, the town moves seamlessl y from the sublime to the Castlewellan Peace Maze - one of the worlds largest silly with the magnificent Slieve Donard Hotel & Spa, gleaming new promenade and Royal County Down Golf Club wi thin eyesigh t of brassy amusement arcades and chintzy B&Bs. Dont miss nearby Silent Valley and Spelga Dam reser voirs set amid stunning scener y and Tollymore and Castlewellan Forest Parks - the latter home to what was, until relatively recently, the worlds largest maze (pic). Coastal towns and villages Ardglass, Dundrum, Annalong and Kilkeel combine to create a beautiful coastal journey that makes you realise quite what a wonderful country this is.

All you need to know about where to sleep, eat, drink, visit and enjoy

Road through the Sperrins

Cruising on Fermanaghs Lakelands

Sperrins Sperrins Tourism, The Manor House, 30 High St, Moneymore, Co. Londonderry, tel. (+44)(0)28 8674 7700, One of the great, undiscovered regions of Northern Ireland has to be the Sperrin Mountains. Stunningly bleak and stretching 64 miles, the Sperrins are often overshadowed by glamorous siblings such as the Mournes and Causeway Coast. But it is exactly this aspect of unchartered territory that makes a trip through this widespread mountain range such a memorable experience. Imagine a rolling Irish wilderness and youre close to conjuring up the Sperrins. Cycling,


Europes biggest publisher of locally produced city guides October - November 2012

Belfast In Your Pocket


Derry - A Brief History

6th Century AD: First mention of a monastery, but settlement is believed to stretch back many more centuries. The Irish name Doire, from which Derry derives, means Oak Grove. The site of the settlement was seen as a strategically important high point overlooking the River Foyle. 1609-1613: After the de-population following the Nine Years War and the Flight of the Earls, the Plantation of Ulster begins. Derry is renamed Londonderry due to the involvement of the Guilds of London in its development. With its imposing walls and new Protestant Cathedral (1633), Londonderry was intended to be a bastion of British power. 1688-1689: Siege of Derry. In defiance of Protestant Governor Lundy, later branded a traitor by Unionists, thirteen Protestant Apprentice Boys close the gates on the Catholic King James. A bitter 105 day siege ensues with great loss of life. 1968 onwards: Outbreak of The Troubles in Northern Ireland, with Derry at its centre. Civil Rights demands by the citys Catholic majority lead to violence, with Bloody Sunday, on 30 January 1972, seeing 13 unarmed Catholic civilians shot dead by British Paratroopers, an event which remains emotive to the present day. During this time, the city sees a great exodus of the Protestant population to the East of the river. 1990 onwards: The city enjoys a renaissance and return to normality quicker than most other areas of NI. 1995: President Clinton visits Derry City. 1998: Following his central role in the Good Friday Agreement, Derry politician John Hume is co-recipient of the Nobel Peace Prize. 2010: The City of Derry is awarded the prestigious inaugural title of 2013 UK City of Culture.


Northern Irelands second, and Irelands fourth, largest city is small enough to explore on foot yet crammed with history and culture. With the opening of the Peace Bridge and reemergence of historic Ebrington Barracks as a new public Square, the city has stretched across the River Foyle for new generations of locals and visitors to enjoy. To get the most from your stay, here is our Derry City Top Ten.

of Ulster reapportioned land from Irish Catholics to newly settled English Protestants. Londons powerful trades guilds invested in the settlement, hence the new name. Maiden City refers to the impregnable walls which held out during the 1688-89 Siege of Derry. And Stroke City is local radio presenter Gerry Andersons neutral solution to the political impasse. Legenderry is the latest label inspired by its 2013s UK City of Culture status. 2. WALK THE WALLS. Derry is the Dubrovnik of the North and Irelands most complete walled city. Over 1.5kms of walls encircle the centre, providing a unique walkway and affording panoramic views of the surrounding area. These impressive 17th Century stone fortifications can be accessed by clearly signposted steps, with information plaques guiding you through the citys historic heart and often turbulent past.

Eat, drink and be Derry

Peadar O Donnells & Gweedore Bar J-2 59-63 Waterloo St, tel. (+44) (0)28 7137 2318, www. Crammed with locals, tourists and trad pub ephemera, these adjoining bars are undoubtedly Derrys most lively down-home drinking and live music dens. Peadars is all about traditional Irish music, while The Gweedore attracts indie kids, Goths and rockers keen to shake their thang or adopt an air of sophisticated disaffection against the crashing backdrop of live and loud sounds. Upstairs the nightclub plays the latest tunes for those who fancy a bit of an unpretentious boogie. Nights out dont get much better than this. Q Mon 11:00 - 01:00, Tue-Sat 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 12:30 - 24:00. JE October - November 2012

Guildhall, Derry City 1. NAME THAT TOWN. Derry, Londonderry, Stroke City, the Maiden City, Legenderry: whats in a name? Most locals use Derry, but many Protestant Unionists prefer Londonderry. The original name of Derry came from Doire, the Irish for oak grove surrounded by bog. London was added in the 17th Century when King James Is Plantation

Belfast In Your Pocket





5. GET CULTURED. In 2013 Derry will become the UKs first City of Culture, and things are already hotting up among the arts fraternity. The Millennium Forum (Newmarket St, tel. (+44) (0)28 7126 4455), Playhouse (Artillery St, tel. (+44) (0)28 7126 1884), Nerve Centre (Magazine St, tel. (+44) (0)28 7126 0562) and Verbal Arts Centre (Bishop St. Within, tel. (+44) (0)28 7126 6946) are the citys main venues. 6. GO SHOPPING. Foyleside and Richmond Shopping Centres are both are within the city walls. Niche shops can be found in and around the Diamond, also home to Austins, the worlds oldest department store. 7. CELEBRITY WORSHIP. The Undertones, Phil Coulter, Dana, Josef Locke, D:Ream and Girls Alouds Nadine Coyle have each contributed to Stroke Citys musical legacy. 3. TAKE A TOUR. Bus, boat, taxi and walking tours leave no historical stone unturned and no curious question unanswered. Bus tours take you through the centre, Catholic Nationalist Bogside and across the River Foyles two road bridges to the more mixed Waterside. Walking tours of the Bogside, site of the infamous Bloody Sunday and Free Derry Corner, bring this pivotal moment in modern history to life. Taxi tours provide similarly indepth commentaries. And the Foyle Cruiser tootles along the river at a sedate pace, with onboard commentary on the citys maritime history. 4. GET HISTORICAL. The Tower Museum (tel. (+44) (0)28 7137 2411) has a permanent exhibition on Spanish Armada ship, La Trinidad Valencera and also offers a fascinating insight into the citys often turbulent history. And you can touch that history at newly-renovated St. Columbs Cathedral (tel. (+44) (0)28 7126 7313). Both are within the city walls.

Apprentice Boys Memorial Hall

Built in 1873 and extended in 1936, the Scottish forti fied baronial styled Apprentice Boys Memorial Hall & Museum is located by the city Walls. The Hall is a focal point for the annual Apprentice Boys Commemorations of the Siege of 1688-1689, the Shutting of the Gates in December and the Relief of Londonderry in August. The Halls Museum is dedicated to the history of the Siege of Londonderry 1688-1689 and the history, heritage and commemorative role of the Apprentice Boys of Derry. It contains the finest collection of rooms for the use of the countrys three Loyal Orders. The Hall is the Head Quarters and seat of the General Committee of the Apprentice Boys Association which meets regularly in the Apprentice Boys Room. The building also hosts very fine Orange Lodge and Royal Black Preceptory rooms. It is in the MEM where Lundy is constructed each year, ready for ceremonial burning in December as part of the Shutting of the Gates commemorations. Affectionately known as The MEM, the Hall was a central meeting place for young people from all over the City in the swinging 1960s, though declined in use as the safety of the area was uncertain during the period of conflict. In recent years the MEM has started a slow return to greater use and wider access through the work of the annual Apprentice Boys Maiden City Festival which also uses may other venues around and within the historic Walls. The Apprentice Boys Memorial Hall remains an important place for Protestants within the Derry City Council area, and represents a meeting point in Londonderry for Apprentice Boys and friends from all over the UK, Ireland and beyond. More info on the Apprentice Boys of Derry Association and the history of the Hall, including a virtual tour, can be found on And you can also find out more about the history of the Apprentice Boys, the annual commemorations and download a map & trail around the historic walls at All these sites and much more can be found by starting at

St. Columbs Cathedral

J-2, Londonderry, tel. (+44) (0)28 7126 7313, Standing proudly within the Walls of Derry, St Columbs Church of Ireland Cathedral was completed in 1633 and is the citys oldest building. It is dedicated to St. Columba, the Irish monk who brought Christianity to the area in the 6th Century AD. The Cathedral is widely recognised locally, nationally and internationally for its active promotion of ecumenical and bridge-building activities. As such, this landmark building is held as a religious venue acceptable to all sections of the community. Much of the history and infinite spiritual value of the area is encapsulated within its walls. And a recent 4m renovation project has this elegant place of worship looking better than ever. Inside youll find many interesting memorials, stained glass windows and other items relating to the history of Londonderry. Visit its Chapter House Museum to see the Promise Chalice - sent to Londonderry in 1613 by the Honourable the Irish Society as a symbol of their promise to build a Cathedral in the new City. In the porch is the 270lbs mortar shell fired into the City by the Jacobite forces during the siege of 1689. It contained a document outlining terms of surrender which were refused by the Citizens. The siege lasted 105 days. Q Visitors: Mon-Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Morning Service daily at 10:30. Sun services: 08:00, 11:00, 16:00 (except July & Aug). Also 10:00 Family Service (4th Sun every month). Suggested voluntary donation 2pp. Guided tours available. Rates on request. J

8. GORGE YOURSELF. The Exchange (Queens Quay, tel. (+44) (0)28 7127 3990), Quaywest (Boating Club Lane, tel. (+44) (0)28 7137 0977), Cafe Del Mondo (Craft Village, tel. (+44) (0)28 7136 6877, Fiorentinis Ice Cream Parlour (Strand Rd.) and Custom House (Queens Quay, tel. (+44) (0)28 7137 3366) are among the citys coolest restaurants and cafes. 9. SINK A PINT. Peadar ODonnells is a fantastic drinking den crammed with curios and ephemera, as befits an authentic Irish pub. And the adjoining Gweedore Bar provides a spiritual haven for hardcore, indie types (see listing p.56). The Metro (Bank Place, tel. (+44) (0)28 7126 7401) is a contemporary bar/nightclub. Clubbers should head to Sugar (Shipquay St, tel. (+44) (0)28 7126 6017) and Earth (Strand Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 7136 0556). 10. GO TO SLEEP... The 4-star City Hotel (Queens Quay, tel. (+44) (0)28 7136 5800) and Tower Hotel (Butcher St, tel. (+44) (0)28 7137 1000) are both within the city walls. The Everglades (Prehen Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 7132 1066) 4-star, is a short taxi ride from town. As is the 3-star Ramada Da Vincis (Culmore Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 7127 9111) and The Waterfoot (Caw Roundabout, tel. (+44) (0)28 7134 5500). The 2-star Travelodge (Strand Rd, 0870 1911 733) is slap-bang in the city centre. The Saddlers House and Merchants House are beautifully appointed B&Bs. While Derry City Independent Hostel (Gt. James St, tel. (+44) (0)28 7128 0542), and Paddys Palace (Asylum Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 7130 9051) provide no nonsense, good fun, cheap accommodation. For more information on all events, tours and accommodation, call into the Derry Visitor & Convention Bureau, 44 Foyle St, tel. (+44) (0)28 7126 7284,

View from Derrys Walls

Belfast In Your Pocket

October - November 2012


Belfasts city centres main shopping areas are Donegall Place and Royal Avenue facing the City Hall, radial streets off Cornmarket (C-2, off Royal Ave) and, heading south, the Lisburn Road. The city centres shopping malls are Victoria Square off Cornmarket and CastleCourt on Royal Avenue. If you want to explore smaller city centre outlets and craft shops, check out Spires Mall, the Fountain Centre, Queen Street and Smithfield Market. The small Queens Arcade also houses some fine jewellery, gift and bespoke clothing shops. For eclectic antiques and curios, head down Donegall Pass.

agh Rd, M5, tel. (+44) (0)28 9073 2868, www. This history-steeped sweet shop has been serving natives and newcomers with its sugary confections since 1953. Today the original Aunt Sandras nephews, David and Jim Moore, continue the tradition and demonstrate their craft as children and adults look on with wide-eyed glee. Shamrock lollies, Belfast rock and chocolate macaroons are just some of the sticky souvenirs to tempt shoppers. Willy Wonka plays on the screen and the adjacent ice cream parlour implores you to pull up a chair and enjoy yet more diet-busting delights.Q Mon-Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. . K 899647, Award-wining local chocolatier Deirdre McCanny has crafted an exceptional sensory experience in this bijou basement shop. As soon as you enter, the smell of chocolate is nothing short of orgasmic. Her luxurious cocoa creations are melt-in-themouth gorgeous, and beautifully packaged in brown and gold-embossed boxes. Flavoured truffles, marshmallows and chocolate bars are among the must-have morsels. And a set of tables and chairs means you can sit and enjoy some heaven-sent hot chocolate. Q Tue-Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Also at St. Georges Market. J


Aunt Sandras Candy Factory G-3, 60 Castlere-

The Irish Linen and Gift Centre

C-1, 65-67 Royal Ave, tel. (+44 (0)28 9031 4272, Belleek pottery, Galway Crystal and a fine range of Irish linen and knitwear make this a great place to seek out authentic and classy Irish gifts. Titanic and Guinness-inspired mementoes are also available alongside lots more green-gilded goodies for the folks back home... or your good self. Find it opposite the main entrance to CastleCourt Shopping Centre. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Y

Shopping malls and markets

CastleCourt B/C-1, Royal Ave, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 4591. This huge reflective glass building takes up a sizeable stretch of Royal Avenue, Belfasts main shopping drag, and brings together high street names, a food court and marketstyle stalls all under one handy rainproof roof. Debenhams, Gap and New Look head up the fashion faves, and other well-known

Co Couture C-2, 7 Chichester St, tel. (+44)(0)7888

St. Georges Market

Fountain Centres quirky clock retailers include Laura Ashley, Exhibit and Boots. Theres a cute childrens play area for hyper kids and their weary parents, car-shaped buggies free to hire and, for adult drivers, a multistorey car park looming large at the back. QOpen Mon-Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Thur 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. JLK

Fountain Street & Fountain Centre B-2. A good selec-

tion of gift shops, gorgeous Sawers deli and a sprinkling of cafes and bars are clustered around this small pedestrianised area. Ride the escalator and get up close to a Hamburg-made 24-bell clock and, in finer weather, enjoy outdoor seating on the terrace surrounding the eponymous fountain. Look left and youll find SpaceCRAFT which sells and exhibits gorgeous local crafts from top notch designers. Eagle eyes will spot the specially crafted street lanterns complete with F insets. Nice touch. JK

Sawers B-2, Fountain Centre, 7a College St, tel.

D-2, 12 East Bridge St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9043 5704, Regarded as one of the UKs finest food markets, St. Georges Food & Garden Market (Sat, 09:00 - 15:00) has around 250 stalls selling local and organic produce ranging from fresh fish to wild boar and smelly cheeses to Armagh apples. A market has existed on this site since 1604, and the elegant Victorian red brick and glass structure you see today is the culmination of a 4.3m renovation project. Inside, the cavernous space has a vibe about it thats unique to the city. Locals mingle with tourists as live music plays and traders display their tantalising wares. Savour a couple of hours at this colourful smorgasbord and get your maw round some great tasting international cuisine and local grub. On Fridays, food gives way to the Variety Market (06:0013:00) which, as the name suggests, is crammed with all manner of antiques, bric-a-brac, clothes and curios. Sift carefully and you might uncover a thing of rare beauty and value. This is where the real locals shop, and a visit gives you an insight into the shopping habits of some of the citys most colourful characters. Totally unpretentious and worth an early morning potter before the high street stores open their doors. The Market is also open Sundays 10:00 - 16:00 as a combination of Fri and Sat markets and with an emphasis on arts and crafts. A free shuttle bus runs every 20mins between the city centre (outside Boots, Donegall Place or HMV, Castle Place) and the Market. Dept. Fri from 08:00; Sat from 09:00. JK

Smithfield Market C-1, behind CastleCourt. Long the home to specialist and second hand shops, the new Smithfield Market was completed in 1986 after the old Victorian market was bombed in the 70s. Step inside and explore wee units brimming with all manner of paraphernalia from comics to collectibles, army surplus to Irish souvenirs and cafes to camping equipment. Its a bit dingy, but thats all part of its charm. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JK
(+44) (0)28 9032 2284, Spires Mall occupies the ground floor of Church House, HQ of the Presbyterian Church in Ireland. Built in 1905 and refurbished in 1992, this dark brick colossus features an ornately carved exterior and 40m-high belfry where twelve bells chime the hours and play the occasional hymn. The Mall houses Spires Caf, Fairtrade shops and DeLorean Exhibition. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Thu 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.JHK

(+44) (0)28 9032 2021, This Aladdins Cave of local and global epicurean treats has been part of Belfasts food scene for over one hundred years. Its mind-boggling selection runs well into the 1000s, with a multitude of marinaded olives and seafood, artisan cheeses and chocolates, and a replete charcuterie tempting all you lovers of gourmet cuisine. Grab some tasty souvenirs, enjoy locally produced eats or order one of their gorgeous bespoke hampers. Ditch the diet and indulge in this delicious feast. Q Open Mon-Sat 09:00 - 17:00. J

Gifts & Souvenirs

Carrolls Irish Gifts C-1, 2-6 Castle Place, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 8899, Irish paraphernalia, traditional gifts and other green-gilded goodies are available at this city centre souvenir store. Part of the Ireland-wide chain, Carrolls stocks enough big-name products - from clothing to collectables and chocolates to CDs - to keep the folks back home happy. QOpen 09:30 - 19:00, Thu 09:30 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 09:30 - 19:30, Sun 10:00 - 18:30. JY

(0)28 9024 3550, Showcasing and selling the work of over 150 Irish artists and craftspeople, this treasure trove is an absolute must for all you quality-conscious souvenir hunters. Perfumes, marble, pewter and pottery sit alongside paintings, jewellery and many other smaller items - with all price ranges covered. Check out the gorgeous Irish textiles and clothing, and feast your eyes on the small art gallery, and bodhrans (Irish drums - pronounced borons) suspended from the ceiling.Q Open 09:00 - 18:00, Thu 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. JY

The Wicker Man C-1, 44-46 High St, tel. (+44)

Spires Mall B-2, Church House, Wellington St, tel.

8269, This family-owned jewellery shop oozes sophistication as befits its elegant bespoke and designer collections. Husband and wife team Bill and Christina Steenson work with precious gems and metals to create their much sought after contemporary pieces. And the addition of other local and European jewellers work has made this N. Irelands biggest gallery of its kind. If you like what you see, visit their workshop and visitor centre in Glenarm village on the Antrim Coast Road, en route to the Giants Causeway. And find their Belfast base close to the Ulster Hall. QOpen Mon-Sat 10:00 - 17:30, Thur until 19:00.

The Steensons C-2, Bedford St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024

Victoria Square C-2, Belfasts city centre retail experience has received a major shot of glamour with the opening of this shiny new shopping centre. The landmark building spans a substantial strip of Chichester Street, has several pedestrian access points and boasts a House of Fraser signature store and big glass dome with viewing gallery. Over 90 more shops, an 8-screen Odeon cinema, restaurants, cafs, bars, salon and basement parking complete your wallet-emptying expedition. QOpen 09:30 - 21:00, Mon, Tue 09:30 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. JLKS

Colourful mural at Smithfield Market

The Pound in your pocket... 1 = 1.24, US$1.60, CAD$1.57, AUS$1.58 ( 08 Oct 2012)
October - November 2012

Belfast In Your Pocket


CDC 6x9 ad 2010_CDC 6x9 27/11/2010 16:07 Page 1


NortherN IrelaNd Map

2 3 1 4


be original! buy original!

The Craft & Design Collective has created an innovative focal point for the commissioning, exhibition, promotion and sale of Craft, Applied Art and Design, owned, managed and staffed by Artist/Designer/Makers themselves.

B-2, 9b The Fountain Centre, College St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 9342, The Cra ft & Design Collective has brought together Artist/Designer/Makers from across NI to create this innovative shop/gallery/ exhibition area right in the city centre. Head up the Fountain Centres escalator and indulge in a dazzling choice of handmade pieces youll find nowhere else in town. From the modest to the more luxurious, and featuring everything from ceramics to stylish jewellery, fashion and interior accessories, Space CRAFT provides a relaxing alternative to the high street mle... and gives you the opportunity to support local Artist/ Designer/Makers. QOpen Mon-Sat 10:30 - 17:30. J NOSTALGIA Fri 5 to Sat 27 October This exhibition showcases new ceramic works by twin sisters Claire and Karen G ibson. Claires work for the exhibition is in fluenced by architecture, wi th large coil built forms remini s c e n t o f ol d chimney pots accentuated with varying textu re s a n d t h e use and contrast of colour. Karens work utilises forms that originate in the chemistry laboratory, selecting old-fashioned objects such as specimen jars, then casting, altering and adding imagery. Claire and Karen Gibson (aka Red Earth Designs www.redearthdesigns. graduated from the University of Ulster in 1998, each with a Masters in Fine & Applied Art. TWENTY TWELVE Fri 2 Nov to Sat 1 Dec Ar tist/Desi gner/ Makers were i n vited to create one-off or limited edition pieces in re sp on s e to th e title TWENTY TW E LV E . Th e y were also asked to make a photographic document of the pieces being made. These images form part of the exhibition and will be displayed alongside the pieces. Part of the Belfast Festival at Queens, the exhibition is intended to both challenge and inform the public perception of Jewellery.


Further Information T: +44 (0)28 9032 9342 E: W:

Supported by the Creative Industries Innovation Fund

Shop Gallery Exhibition Area

Shopping on the Lisburn Road

If your idea of retail heaven is exploring some great independent shops, a stroll down South Belfasts Lisburn Road is worth a detour. Undoubtedly the most affluent retail area outside the city centre, this Queens Quarter stretch is the spiritual home for designer boutiques, art galleries and home accessories. Bespoke gifts, melt-in-the-mouth chocolates and relaxing day spas are all there for the asking. And theres also a grande assortment of cafs, bars and restaurants to ensure your shopping onslaught is enhanced by fine food, gourmet gifts and the occasional cocktail. Walk from the city centre and give yourself a few hours to fully explore the strip, then waft back to your boudoir armed with tissue-wrapped treats and be-ribboned bags a la Sex and the City. You go girl!

Belfast In Your Pocket

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Belfast In Your Pocket

October - November 2012

Space CRAFT 9b The Fountain Centre College Street Belfast BT1 6ET

Opening Hours Monday to Saturday 10.30am to 5.30pm

Raising the Profile of Craft, Applied Art & Design

craft & design collective

All you need to know about where to sleep, eat, drink, visit and enjoy



Europes biggest publisher of locally produced city guides


Greater Belfast Map

An Original Pantom

Proudly Presents


ime by Mark McC

Evening Performances at 8.00pm

December 19th, 20th, 21st & 22nd 2012 December 26th, 27th, 28th & 29th 2012 January 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th & 5th 2013

Street index for the Belfast city map on pp.64-65

Academy St. Adelaide St. Agincourt Ave. Albert Sq. Albion St. Alfred St. Amelia St. Ann St. Ann St. Annadale Embankment Apsley St. Arthur St. Ashborne Mews Ashleigh Ave. Balfour Ave. Bank St. Bankmore St. Bedford St. Berry St. Blythe St. Botanic Ave. Bradbury Pl. Bridge End Bridge St. Bruce St. Brunswick St. Callender St. Camden St. Carmel St. Castle Lane Castle Pl Castle Pl. Castle St. Chapel Lane Charlotte St. C-1 C-2/3 C/D-5 C/D-1 B-3 C-2/3 B-2 C-2 C-2, D-1 C/D-5 C-3 C-2 C-3 A-5 D-4 C-1 C-3 C-2/3 C-1 B-3 B/C-4 B-4 D-1 C-1 B-3 B-2 C-2 B-4 C-5 C-2 C-1/2 C-1/2 B/C-2 B-1 C-3 Chichester St. C-2 Claremont St. B-4 Clarence St. C-3 Colenso Parade B/C-5 College Gdns. B-5 College Park Ave. C-5 College Pk. C-4 College Sq. B-2 College St. B-2 Cooke St. D-4 Cornmarket C-2 Corporation St. C-1 Cromac St. C-3, D-2 Cromwell Rd. C-4 Cullingtree Rd. A-2 Distillery St. A-3 Divis St. A-1 Donegall Pass C-3 Donegall Pl. C-2 Donegall Quay D-1 Donegall Rd. A/B-4 Donegall Sq. East C-2 Donegall Sq. North C-2 Donegall Sq. South C-2 Donegall Sq. West C-2 Donegall St. C-1 Dublin Rd. B/C-3 Dunbar Link. C-1 Dunluce Ave. A-4 Durham St. B-2 East Bridge St. D-2 Eglantine Ave. A/B-5 Elgin St. D-5 Elm St. C-3 Elmwood Ave. B-4 Erin Way C-3 Falls Rd. Fitzroy Ave. Fitzwilliam St. Fountain St. Franklin St. Glengall St Gloucester St. Gordon St. Grace St. Gresham St. Grosvenor Rd. Gt. Victoria St. Hamill St. Hamilton St. Hardcastle St. Haymarket High St. Hill St. Hope St. Howard St. Howard St. South India St. Ireton St. James St. South Joy St. Jubilee Rd. King St. Lagan Bridge Lindsay St. Linenhall St. Linfield Rd. Lisburn Rd. Little May St. Lombard St. Lower Crescent Malone Ave. A-1/2 C/D-4 B-4 C-2 C-2 B-2 C-2 C-1 C-2 B-1 A-2, B-2 B-3 B-2 C-2 C-3 C-1 C-1 C-1 B-3 B/C-2 C-3 C-4 C-4 C-2 C-2/3 A-4 B-1 D-1 C-3 C-2/3 B-3 A-5, B-4 C-2 C-1 B-4 A-5 Malone Rd. B-5 Marcus Ward St. C-3 Maryville St. C-3 May St. C/D-2 McAuley St. D-3 McClintock St. C-2/3 McClure St. C-4 Millfield B-1 Montgomery St. C-2 Mount Charles B-4 Murray St. B-2 North St. B/C-1 Northumberland St. A-1 Ormeau Ave. C-3 Ormeau Bridge D-5 Ormeau Embankment D-3/4/5 Ormeau Rd. C-3, D-4,D-5 Oxford St. D-2 Peters Hill B-1 Pottingers Entry C-1 Queen Elizabeth Bridge D-1 Queen St. B-2 Queens Arcade C-2 Queens Bridge D-1 Queens Quay D-1 Queens Sq. C/D-1 River Terrace D-3/4 Rosemary St. C-1 Royal Ave. C-1 Rugby Ave. C/D-4 Rugby Rd. C-4/5 Russell St. C-2 Salisbury St. C-3 Sandy Row B-3 Servia St. A-2 Shaftesbury Ave. D-4 Shaftesbury Sq. B-3 Shankill Rd. A-1 Station St. Flyover D-1 Stewart St. D-3 Stranmillis Embankment C/D-5 Stranmillis Rd. B-5 Sussex Pl. C-2 Talbot St. C-1 Tates Ave. A-5 The Gasworks D-3 Tomb St. D-1 Ulsterville Ave. A-4 University Ave. C/D-4 University Rd. B-4/5 University Sq. B-4 University St. B/C-4 Upper Arthur St. C-2 Upper Crescent. B-4 Upper Library St. B-1 Upper Queen St. B-2 Ventry St. B-3 Vernon St. C-4 Victoria St C-1, D-2 Waring St. C-1 Wellesley Ave. A/B-5 Wellington Pk. A/B-5 Wellington Pl. B/C-2 Wellington St. B/C-2 Wellwood St. B-3 Westlink A-2/3, B-1 William St. South C-2 Windsor Ave. A-5 Wolsley St. C-4 York St. C-1

Matinee Performances at 3.00pm

December 22nd, 26th, 29th & 31st 2012 January 1st & 5th 2013

ADMISSION (seats can be reserved) Adult 8.00 (Concession 7.00) Groups of 10 + 7.00 per seat Groups of 100 + 6.00 per seat

Box office:
9049 1210 or 9064 9835
Belvoir Players Studio Theatre, 94 Belvoir Drive, Belfast BT8 7FR

Belfast In Your Pocket


FROM 9.99