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STUDY OF PROFILES OF KHADI &


HANDLOOM ORGANISATIONS AND CASE
STUDIES OF WEAVERS OF A.P.

SARVANI VADDI and Prof .B.BALAKRISHNAIAH

The results of the present research study were organized into the following
sections.
QUALITATIVE DATA
1 Profiles of Khadi institutions
2 Profiles of Handloom centers
3 Case studies of weavers
This helped to understand the present scenario of the Khadi and Handloom

industry of, Andhra Pradesh, India.

FIGUR
SECTION I:
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1 PROFILES OF KHADI CENTERS OF ANDHRA PRADESH


All the profiles of the Khadi institutions under study were presented under the
following headings.
KHADI PROFILE-I: BHAGYANAGAR KHADI SAMITHI
Introduction: The Bhagyanagar Khadi Samithi was certified Khadi institution
established in the year 1969 A.D. to undertake Khadi and village industries activities
in the background districts of Nalgonda, Ranga Reddy, Medak, Mahaboobnagar and
Hyderabad with the main objective of providing employment to the people living
below poverty line. It was founded by the Late Pujya Swami Ramanand Tirtha under
the chairmanship of former Prime Minister Sri P.V.Narasimha Rao. The Samithi
consists of 15 members as board of trustees who are in associated with Gandhian
propagation, social welfare work and renowned freedom fighters. There are twelve
(12) employees , working on monthly salary, at the main office located in
saroornagar and two thousand (2000) spinners and weavers . This institution was
categorized under ‘A’ category by CKVI , based on its overall performance.
Production: The Bhagyanagar Samithi had been responsible to set up 58
NMC/Charkha units, five (5) polyvastra units, cotton processing plant, New Model
Charkha (NMC)/ servicing unit, bleaching unit, soap unit, oil expeller unit, oil ghani
unit (cluster program), agarbathi unit . The location of cotton processing and village
industries units are at samithi’s complex , Roshan Bagh, Saroor nagar, Hyderabad.
There are two types of Charkhas working for the samithi. The first one is old model 6
spindle charkha. A total of 1456 such charkhas are in use. The second type is new
model 8 spindle charkha (NMC). A total of 300 NMCs are working for samithi.
Under Revamped public distribution system (RPDS) a total of 225 NMCs were also
given to the samithi members.
Cotton Khadi: - This Samithi maintains three (3) production centers namely
Khadi karyalaya-Medak, Khadi karyalaya-Nalgonda, Khadi karyalaya-Ibrahim
patnam, operating 32 NMC charkha units, each unit consists of 25 charkhas. The
Samithi has got a team of 500 traditional weavers who have got vast experience in the
production of fabric in Single Thread (ST), Double Thread (DT), Tie and Dye,
Pochampally Sarees, Napkins and Towels.
Cotton processing plant: - The cotton processing plant known as carding unit
was located at Saroornagar where pre-spinning activity like opening of cotton bales,
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carding and drawing sliver takes place. The drawing sliver is being supplied to
artisans engaged in the rural areas. The installed capacity of carding unit was
54,771 Kgs per annum with a view to ensure best quality of drawing to be given to
artisans. The Samithi installed a simplex machine with the KVIC financial assistance
in the year 1996-97 and also undertaken the job-works of other Khadi institutions.
Polyvastra Khadi: - It has five units to produce Polyvastra Khadi. The raw
materials of Polyvastra Khadi have been obtained from KVI C central sliver plants.
Silk Khadi: - The Samithi has introduced in 1995-96 Silk Khadi production
of Tie and Dye Pochampally Sarees, which is in high demand in the country.
Products: Cotton Khadi fabric in Single Thread (ST), Double Thread (DT)
for Shirting and Trousers respectively, Khadi denim, Tie and Dye Pochampally
Sarees, Dhotis,Lungis, Hand Kerchiefs, Napkins, Towels in checks, polyvastra (P/C
67/33) fabric for pyjamas and shirtings and also kalamkari bed sheets.
Marketing Channels: This institution has established marketing network
through twelve marketing retail Khadi Bhandars at different districts of the state. A
total of four (4) units each at Nalgonda, Medak and twin cities of Hyderabad and
Secunderabad are retailing for the samithi. Khadi Vastralaya of Saroornagar is the
center for wholesale. All the procurements or purchases were made by this Vastralaya
and products are sent to marketing at Khadi bhandars.
KHADI PROFILE-II: LAKSHMI SILK REELING, TWISTING, WEAVING
INDUSTRIAL CO-OP SOCIETY LTD., CHOWTUPPAL, NALGONDA Dt.
Introduction: Lakshmi Silk Reeling, Twisting, Weaving Industrial Co-Op
Society Ltd. Started its production as a unit of Khadi Board in the year 1988 A.D. and
got recognized by Khadi and Village Industries Commission in the financial year
1991-92 A.D. with loan liabilities of Rs. 4,41,902/-. Central certification committee of
Kaiser Bagh, Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, certified this on 14th January 2000 as validity
of Khadi Certificate No. AP/3967. Renewal of Khadi certificate of this unit for the
period of 2001-2006 A.D. was forwarded. The unit started with 12 members. At
present there are 15 Twisters, 30 Weavers and 20 Reelers co-operating with the
society. The office is held by 8 staff members. It is a medium sized institution
catergorised under ‘B’ category by CKVI based on its performance.
Raw Material: Cocoons are brought from Tirumalgiri Government Cocoons
Market of Secunderabad. When cocoons are not available, yarn is purchased from
Khadi Silk Board licensed by Khadi Board. As per the cost chart of the commission,
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Cocoons cost Rs. 130/- per Kilogram. 20-25% of weight loss would be there while
reeling the cocoons. After reeling, 6 yarns of silk are twisted together to be used for
weaving. The twisting is followed by dyeing process. Usually, bleached yarn is given
to the weavers to be used for the ikat products.
Production: Production centers are located in Narayanapuram, Puttapaka,
Chowtuppal, Gattuppal and Gundurampally. The production capacity of silk khadi
reelig is 10 basis and silk khadi twisting is of 15 spindles.Weavers are given the raw
material, the silk yarn, dyes. Also advance of Rs. 10,000/- and payment for the coolie
is given to the weavers. In tie and dye or ikat technique, chances are there for 40%
defects in the final products. Value of production is Rs.70 lakhs per annum
Products: single ikat pochampally patola sarees, Silk Khadi sarees,dress
materials, shirtings, cotton/silk ikat material yardages.
Marketing: Retail was stopped as the Khadi Bandar was closed in the year
1999 A.D. as sufficient wholesale is there and no risk is involved in the wholesale.
After discount, the institution is able to make 15% profit. But the payment is received
only after 5 years especially from Khadi Gramodhyog Bhavan of Chennai.
The president was of the opinion that weavers are also cheating the society in
spite of so many welfare schemes being offered by the Commission. They take 1500
grams of yarn and sell it in the market and get cheap quality yarn for weaving. Also,
he was of the opinion that, if the product turns out to be of good quality ikat with a
correct matching of design, then the weavers are selling that product to private
retailers, master weavers or to the consumers visiting them. And get back the
defective or low quality ikat to handover to the society.
KHADI PROFILE-III : METPALLI KHADI GRAMODHYOG
PRATISTHAN, METPALLI, KARIMNAGAR Dt.
Introduction:This institution, Metpalli Khadi Gramodhyog Pratisthan,
formed from the division of the Hyderbad Khadi Samithi during the State
reorganization in the year 1967 A.D. Sri. P.V.Narasimha Rao, former prime minister
of India was the chairman of the society. It is a very active institution categorized
under ‘A+’ category by CKVI based on its performance.
Production: The society has production spread at four districts of the state
namely Karimnagar, Nizamabad, Warangal and Khammam districts. There are more
than thousand weavers who are employed under this institution.
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Products: Cotton Khadi, Muslin Khadi, Silk Khadi, Towels, Dhotis, Lungis,
Khadi Sarees, Dress Material Yardages, Hand Kerchiefs and Durries.
Marketing: The marketing is through the state Khadi Bhandars located at
various districts of Andhra Pradesh state. The products are also available at the
certified khadi bhandars at 10 states of India. The total production of the institution is
Rs.108 lakhs of which Rs. 56.33 lakhs are earned from retail sales and Rs.82.14 lakhs
from wholesales.
KHADI PROFILE-IV : WAVILAL KHADI GRAMODHYOG PRATISTHAN,
WAVILALA, KARIMNAGAR DISTRICT

Introduction: It was the year 1929 A.D., they were the days of freedom fight.
Under the leadership of Mahatma Gandhi Indians in every corner of India were united
against on the Foreign rule. Let it be the Government or let it be the clothes. The
greatest visionary of Indian history Mahatma Gandhi was leading India towards
freedom. Freedom and independence from Western life style-for a better tomorrow,
for India to be self sufficient and a strong nation. He wanted the change to start from
rural India. So, he stressed on wearing hand spun and hand woven Khadi and making
products of Village Industries a part of our lives. Thus, strengthening the economy of
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rural Indian which is the backbone of independent India.

In year 1929A.D. two of Gandhiji’s disciples, Sri Annasahab Sahasra Buddhe


and Sri Krishnadas Jaju carried on an extensive Survey of the Telengana region and
fixed Metpally and Wavilal as production Center in association with All India
Spinners Association, Maharastra Branch. Till 1934 A.D. it was run by Maharastra
Branch and later was attached to Hyderabad Branch. Sri Annasaheb Sahasra Buddhe
& Sri Dwarakanadh Leliji has taken great interest in making Wavilal one of the
largest production centers of Khadi in India.
The Samstha was involved not only in the production of Khadi but may other
programs to inspire the people to be politically and socially active. Karyakarthas were
involved in educating people by running schools, educating them about cleanliness
and good health habits. In 1950 A.D. All India Spinners Association was dissolved
and under Sri Ramanand Tirth as Chairman, Hyderabad Khadi Samithi was formed. It
included 16 districts which were under Nizam State at that time. The great dedication
and execution of the dynamic karyakarthas soon lead Metpally and Wavilal to be two
of the largest manufacturing centers of Khadi.
Many employees of Khadi board and other industrial centers used to be sent to
Wavilal for practical experience. The Hyderabad Khadi Samithi was divided into
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Bhagyanagar Khadi Samithi (Hyderabad) and Metpally Khadi Khadi Gramodyog


Pratisthan (Metpally) during the state re-organization in 1967 A.D. Sri P.V.
Narasimha Rao became the Chairman of Metpally Khadi Gramodyog Pratisithan
which has production spread in Karimnagar, Nizambad, Warangal and Khammam
Districts. As the Samstha Prospered in all areas the necessity for one more division
arised for better organization and in 1983 A.D. Wavilal got separated and became
Wavilal Khadi Gramodyog Pratishthan. It is a very active institution categorized
under ‘A+’ category by CKVI based on its performance.

Since three years the member-secretary of the institution is interested in


developing retail sales. Now the institution reached to production of 250 crores and
1.40 crores retail sales per annum providing employment to 2750 people
approximately.
Production: The production of Khadi is spread in Karimnagar, Adilabad,
Warangal, Khammam and Krishna Districts. Wavilal, Mogullapally, Gagillapur and
there are major centers of production. There are around 750 Weavers who are being
employed under the Samstha. Under the able guidance of leadership and in the hands
of skilled and dedicated workmen the Samstha has been progressing rapidly with the
production reaching Rs.2 crores per annum.
Products: The institution is undertaking production and sale of cotton Khadi,
silk khadi and polyvastra.
Marketing: Wavilal Khadi Gramodyog pratisthan had 17 retail outlets located
at Hyderabad Karimnagar Warangal Adilabad Krishna districts of Andhra Pradesh.To
reach the customer in villages and bring more awareness of Khadi the institution is
organizing Exhibition sales also.
Wavilal Khadi is famous for its quality and purity throughout India. Many
National level leaders know Wavial Khadi by name the products are available in
KVIC Certified Khadi Bhandars in Maharastra, Karnataka, Madhya Pradesh,
Rajasthan, Haryana, Delhi, Himachal Pradesh, Jammu & Kashmir Tamilnadu and
Kerala.
KHADI PROFILE-V :THE GADWAL TALUK KHADI GRAMODHYOG
SANGH, GADWAL, MAHABOOBNAGAR Dt.
Introduction: Gadwal was famously known for its handloom industry from
ancient times. In India, Gadwal is the birth place for its Zari fabrics. During 1930
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A.D., Mahatma Gandhi identified Gadwal as the potential center for the development
of Khadi industry. He placed his disciples Sri Jajuji and Sri Hanumanth Rao to survey
the situation at Gadwal for its suitability to introduce Khadi. In 1931 A.D. ‘All India
Spinners Association’ was formed at Gadwal. Since the state Andhra Pradesh was not
yet formed at that time, Gadwall was part of Raichur, today a district of Karnataka
state. During the Khadi movement, two female spinners from Harijan community
namely Rosamma from Gadwal and Karremma from Pudur were invited by Gandhiji
to sevagram and were trained to expertise in Khadi spinning. Their performance was
highly appreciated and certified by Srimathi Vijayalakshmi Pandit, Srimati Sarojioni
Devi, Sri Govind Vallbh Pandit and others.It was in the year 1951 A.D. that the All
India Spinners Association, Karnataka Gram Seva Sangh was established by Dr. G.S.
Melkote, as president at Raichur town. Gadwal Samstha existed as a part of it. This is
a decentralized institution from Karnataka Gram Seva Sangham, Raichur registered
during the year 1971 A.D.
In the year 1956 A.D., when Andhra Pradesh formed as a separate state,
Gadwal being included in it. “Gadwal Taluka Khadi Gramodhyog Sangham” was
registered as a separate independent society. Since then the production increased and
it provided employment to 300 people. The main functions include, Khadi Spinning,
weaving, bleaching of kora Khadi cloth. A total of Rs.50 lakhs property is under this
unit. It includes two buildings, a silk spinning and weaving unit, a new model charkha
(NMC) unit, low quality spinning unit at Anantapur, Muslin Khadi spinning and
weaving unit at Ieeja and a spinning unit at Uttanur. At present there are 15 artisans
working under this institution. It is a medium institution categorized under ‘A’
category.
Products: Cotton Khadi, Muslin Khadi, Silk Khadi.
Marketing: They had wholesale and retail sales through Khadi bhandars.
Retailing at Gadwal, Mahaboobnagar and Hyderabad. The Bhandar at Hyderabad was
destroyed by the municipal authorities, referring it as the old building in dilapidation
condition. This caused further difficulties in running the institution.
KHADI PROFILE-VI :GRAMADHAN NIRMAN SAMITHI,
NAGARKURNOOL,MAHABOOBNAGAR DISTRICT
Introduction: The society was registered in the year 1960 A.D. and started its
production from the year 1992 A.D. onwards. This institution was directly owned by
CKVI with 1.5 lakh production and with one workshed having two working looms.
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Only two families are employed under the society. It was categorized in ‘A+’
category by CKVI based on its overall performance.
Raw Material: The cotton was obtained from Rakonda, spinning at
Namidipalli and New Model Charkha (NMC) units are sponsored by District Rural
Development Organisation (DRDO).
Production: The actual production of the institutionis about 24-25 meters of
Kalamkari printing on fabric. Kalamkari printing is done at Pedanna and Gollapalem.
Bleaching of the fabrics is carried out at Bhuvangiri.
Products: Kalamkari printed fabric, Cotton Muslin, Polyvastra, Silk Khadi.
Marketing: The institution has both wholesale and retail sales. Actual
production of cotton Khadi amounts to Rs.2.01 lakhs but the institution earns
Rs. 2.01 lakhs through retail and Rs.6.78 lakhs through wholesale by stocking the
goods produced by other institutions.
KHADI PROFILE-VII : KHADI GRAMA PARISRAMALA SANGHAM,
DHARMAVARAM, ANANTAPUR DISTRICT
Introduction:The Khadi Grama Parisramala Sangham was established in the
year1971A.D. Under the commissioner for Khadi and Village Industries with 10 staff
members and 100 artisan weavers working for the society. The Secretary is
V.Ramudu. It was a silk Khadi institution. It is a medium institution categorized under
‘A’ category.
Production: weaving centre was at Dharmavaram with 70 weavers producing
varieties of silk sarees and Tadiparti with 30 weavers producing varieties of silk
shirting materials, Towels and Dhotis. Cocoons are purchased at the rate of Rs.130
per kilogram and degumming is done by private people charging Rs. 70 per kilogram.
From 10.5 kilograms of cocoon only 1 kilogram of yarn is obtained with 9.5%
wastage. Designs were given by G.S.Chakravarthi who is having 16 years of
experience in weaving. Based on colours and design orders were placed for which
production was carried out. 99% quality was checked at the center only.
Products: Silk Sarees woven with 4’ to 9’ border and pallavs decorated with
jacquard design with blouse available in dark bright, light and shaded colours, plain
silk sarees and silk shirting materials, Dhotis, Towels.
Marketing: Retail outlet at Dharmavaram and wholesale through CKVI to
various institutions. Orders are obtained from Mumbai VT retail outlet and from New
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Delhi. Total turnover is 1.5 crores and 10% of sales from retail. Defective goods are
sold through clearance sales with upto 75% reduction.
Complaints about colour fading and zari defects are received from consumers
through institutions. In those cases replacement was done where they are allowed to
purchase any other item of equal worth. Rebate amount was not cleared in time which
causes trouble. They were of the opinion that provident fund of 12% should be given
to weavers and other artisans. They requested for old-age pension to artisans from the
age of 50 years if they have at least 10 years experience in the activity.
KHADI PROFILE-VIII : RESHAM KHADI GRAMODHYOG SANGHAM,
DHARMAVARAM, ANANTAPUR DISTRICT
Introduction: It was a directly aided institution of CKVI. Raw materials were
obtained through CKVI and also directly from private vendors when demand was not
met by CKVI. It was a medium institution categorized under ‘A’ category.
Production: All the weavers were highly skilled. The Dharmavaram silk
sarees are on par with Kanjeevaram sarees of TamilNadu.
Products: Silk sarees with Zari buta, border, pallav and matching blouse,
plain silk sarees with blouse, silk pavada or lehangas with blouse.
Marketing: There was high demand for Dharmavaram sarees. But,
Dharmavaram Khadi silks were highly priced than the Dharmavaram handloom silk
sarees so do the price.
KHADI PROFILE-IX : GRAMA SWARAJ SANGHAM, KURNOOL
Introduction: The institution was formed during the year 1952 A.D.with
more than 1500 member weavers and spinners. The institution is a directly aided
institution of CKVI. It is a medium institution categorized under ‘A’ category.
Raw Material: the raw material of cotton roving is supplied to the spinners
which are spun and chintelu (spools) are handed over to the institution. The weavers
are given the cotton yarn of 40s, 60s and 80s other necessary raw materials like the zari
and the design details.
Production: There are framelooms as well as pitlooms working in this
institution. Charkha spinning is also taken up as a household activity by the women of
non-weaving class and yarn is exchanged for sarees of their choice.
Products: Muslin Khadi, Cotton Khadi, Cotton Durries, Bed Sheets, Towels,
Dhotis, Lungis and Cotton Sarees with Zari borders
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Marketing: The institution is having both wholesale and retailing through


Khadi bhandars.
KHADI PROFILE-X : SREE SEETHARAMA KHADI GRAMODHYOG
SANGH, GOPALPET, WANAPARTHI, MAHABOOBNAGAR.
Introduction: It was registered in the year 1987 A.D. and the production
work started in the year 1989 A.D. It was directly listed by CKVI during the year
1990-91 A.D. Though it is CKVI owned institution, the financial support is obtained
both from CKVI and DRDA. 52 Lakhs were obtained from CKVI and DRDA
sanctioned an amount of 6 Lakhs. It is performing activities in its own building with
18 staff members. A total of 175 spinners and 30 artisan weavers are working under
this institution.The institution is categorized under‘A’

Cotton Sliver is obtained from ‘Central Silver Plant’ of KVIC located at


Chitradurga. Spinners use this silver to make Khadi yarn of 20S count. Weavers are
production Khadi fabric of single thread (ST) and double thread (DT) varieties.
Dyeing of the fabrics is one from Erode.
The speciality of this institution is that, they supply/market their fabrics to
fabricate Government organizations and staff especially to the Railway department.
The agreement between this institution and Railway department was through tenders
obtained through marketing section of KVIC Mumbai, production accounting to 35
Lakhs is supplied to Railway department.
Production: The weavers are paid Rs.4.25 per meter. They earn nearly
Rs.60/0 per day. For Spinner Re.1/- is paid per hank. Daily they earn nearly Rs.20/-
25 per person. All the spinners are ladies in this institution.
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Products: The varieties supplied to Government organizations are Khaki


cloth for Railway Drivers uniform, Blue cloth for Railway Mechanics uniforms, Red
cloth for Railway Malis uniform, Green flag cloth used by railway signal men, White
cloth used in Air Conditioned coaches of trains, Pillow covers, curtain cloth used in
Air Conditioned coaches of trains, Dusters for Mechanics and Towels.
Marketing: Before supplying to railway department ISI stamping is done.
The payment is received through KVIC within 15 days from the date of delivery.
There are eight institutions in Kurnool that supply products costing to 3 Crores to
Railway department. They are located in Banagampally, Gooty, Kurnool,
Mahaboobnagar and Koilkuntla. This institution has retailing also. Various products
are purchased from other institutions for retailing purpose in their two retail outlets
located at Hyderabad and Vanaparti. The total sales accounts to 6 Lakhs per annum
through retailing and 35 Lakhs per annum through wholesales. Rebate of 20% from
CKVI and 5% from institution is provided on sales seasonally.
The retailing was also done with counter sales. At times the consignment /
stock get rejected by the Railway department due to quality constraints. Such stock
was tie and dyed and was sold through retailing.
Publicity was given through Eenadu daily news paper during the rebate
season. Advertisements were also given through “Vishwajyothi” and local city cables.
Pamphlets are supplied through daily news papers during rebate season. They had
also participated in Swadeshi Mela, DWCRA Bazaar and industrial exhibitions.
Kurnool district one among 125 districts selected under DRDA. Spinners are
trained jointly with TRYSEM projects, working wages and stipend of Rs.350 per
month is paid during training period.The institution pays 10% artisan benefit fund to
the weavers for marriages and other occasions, etc., 10% is paid as bed sheets every
year to the artisan weavers and spinners as incentive wage. It was observed that the
artisan weavers also work agriculture labours. So continuously is not there in the
service. Muslims (minority communities) were also found working as spinners in this
institution.
The Secretary belonged to Komara community and was founder member of
this institution who retired as supervisor in CKVI. He established this institution and
developed it. They were of the opinion that State Government should give support to
the KVIC institutions. They were worried that Bankers also stopped providing loans
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as security cannot be provided by the institution. Also, they helplessly stated that
every year working capital was facing a downfall.
KHADI PROFILE-XI : A. F. KHADDAR KHADI SANGHAM, PONDUR,
SRIKAKAULUM DISTRICT
Introduction: This is directly aided institution under the regional office of
Visakhapatnam. Pondur is famous for its finest Khadi yarn and fabrics. The clothing
are elegant dignified giving a significant and appealing look, for the persons wearing
it. During the swadeshi movement, these fabrics were very much liked by the
congressmen and therefore created a lot of demand in the market.
Even today the brand name ‘Pondur Khaddar’ fabrics have their own identity
and considered to be of the highest grade fabrics significant as symbolic uniform for
the political leaders. Finest grade of yarn of 100s and 120s count hand spun is
considered to be the brand identity of Ponduru. Wearing ponduru khadi clothings
dress is considered to be symbol of respect, dignity, high status and dignity. The
office constitutes of 30 salaried employees. The total number of spinner are 1098 of
which 1000 are traditional spinner 8 of them are working on NMC and 90 weavers.
Production: The spinning of cotton by hand into a very fine count yarn is the
world known skill of ponduru spinners. The cotton is combed using the bone of a fish.
This helps I separating each fire ad making them more parallel. From these fires very
fine count cotton yarn is spu through Gandhi charkhas and NMCs. It is a highly
skilled job. The total cloth production of cotton Khadi is of value Rs. 70.63 lakhs,
yarn production is Rs.1.12 lakhs, muslin Khadi production is of Rs.3.32 lakhs.
Cocanadas- naturally coloured brownish /off white cotton is also used to spun khaddar
yarn.
Products: Cotton Khadi, Muslin Khadi, Dhotis, Lungis, Angavastram ,
Sarees, Shirting Yardages, Towels, Hand Kerchiefs and Polyvastra.
Marketing: The institution markets their own production as well as sources
products from other institutions. The institution has both wholesale and retail through
its bhandars. The retail sales of cotton khadi are of value Rs. 40.12 lakhs, muslin
Khadi are of value Rs.2.58 lakhs, polyvastra is of value Rs. 4.44 lakhs and silk Khadi
is of value Rs. 4.25 lakhs.
KHADI PROFILE-XII : GRAMA SWARAJYA SANGHAM,
BANGANAPALLI , KURNOOL DISTRICT
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Introduction:This institution was certified Khadi institution registered ad


directly listed by CKVI during the year 1967 A.D. It was a medium institution
categorized under ‘B’ category by CKVI. At present, the institution was having 271
artisans in weaving out of which 196 were women, 8 belong to SC/ST and 98 were
minority. And 371 artisans were in the preparatory activities.
Raw Materials: The roving was obtained from central sliver plant.
Production: Their present yarn production is around 3000 Kgs. on New
Model Charkhas. The production centers were placed at Banaganapalli, Koilkutla,
Kothapeta and nearby villages of Kurnool District.
Products: Cotton Khadi, Muslin Khadi, Silk Khadi, Polyvastra, Shirting
material yardages and Dhotis.
Marketing: The marketing was mainly through wholesale amounting to
Rs.62.50 lakhs and retail sales were through Bhandars amounting to about
Rs. 6.5lakhs.
KHADI PROFILE-XIII : THE GUNTUR ZILLA KHADI GRAMODYOGA
SAMSTHA,GUNTUR DISTRICT.
Introduction: The Guntur Zilla Khadi Gramodhyog Samstha (GZKGS) was
Registered in the year 1860 A.D., certified by Khadi and village industries
commission, Mumbai though started functioning from 1971 A.D. with a small capital
of few Lakhs and stocks. The Guntur Zilla Khadi Gramodhyog Samstha (GZKGS)
was an old and reputed institution producing cotton Khadi and Muslin. The unique
feature of the institution was all the registered spinners, weavers, salaried staff and
other workers including the members were members of the institution. It was a large
institution categorized under ‘A+’ category.
Rapid progress was made strictly following the certification rules laid down
by CKVI and attained a higher level of production. Today as many as 2060 persons
are employed regularly of which 1448 are spinners, 464 weavers, 50 dhobis and 95
regular salaried staff in various other activities including office and management.
Products: Cotton Yarn, Cotton Khadi, Muslin Khadi, polyvastra, silk Khadi,
Woollens.
Production: The Samstha at present has 12 Khadi Production and Sales Units,
One Scutcher and carding Unit, One Bleaching Unit, One Central Vastraghar at its
head quarter in Guntur and 10 Khadi Bhandar in and around Guntur. Wages are paid
according to cost chart laid by Khadi and Village Industries Commission.
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This Samstha consists of 28 NMC Centers having New model Charkha (6/8
spindles) till 1994 -95 A.D. 6 spindle and then 8 spindles. 16 weaving centers,365 pits
looms in working condition out of 565, 6 spindle charkhas – 1100 working 625,12
spindle charkhas 100 working out of 100. The institution has the Polyvastra centre
located at Tadepalli and weaving centre at Illavaram. It was a very advanced
institution and performing well. The total production of cotton Khadi is of value
Rs.96.92 lakhs, polyvastra is Rs. 6.63 lakhs.
Marketing: The entire inventory is maintained through computers.
Production, Purchases from other institutions are sold through wholesale and Retail
sale of Cotton Khadi, muslin Khadi and Polyvastra.
It had 11 Sales centers in Rural area, 9 Sales centers in Urban area. The
institution purchases woollen Khadi and silk Khadi from other institutions and sell
through wholesale and retail sale. Hawking sales are observed from the nine sales
Bhandars of Districts Guntur, Prakasam, Krishna, Nellore and West Godavari.
The Institution enjoys favourable market, since the local environments are
such that 70% of local populations are habitual wearers of Khadi and spinning is
almost a hobby. At present the wholesale of cotton khadi is of value Rs.9.73 lakhs and
retail sales are of value 144.07 lakhs, the polyvastra whole sale is of 0.53 lakhs and
retail sales are Rs.14.77 lakhs, Silk Khadi wholesale amounts to Rs. 9.83 lakhs and
retail sales amounts to Rs. 49 lakhs and woolen Khadi wholesale amounts to 0.06
lakhs ad retail amounts to Rs.0.44 lakhs.
In 1998 A.D. the institution was computerized with its own funds. They
introduced a highly customized, tailor-made software package for inventory
management and account management, which has been a successful operation for the
last five years. Khadi Gramodhyog Bhavan- Delhi, Gandhi Ashram-Lucknow,
Kolkotta bhavan and the bhavan at Ranchi are some of the organizations using the
software developed by this institution.
Spinners are given an identification number and code. With one press of a
button one could see how much spinners were earning month wise, along with their
artisan welfare deduction etc. In 2005 State Level Artisan Welfare and Pension Fund
has been established.Over 84,000 artisans will benefit from this fund and the
institution solely contributes to the fund. Also, had Employees children education
incentive, where in, at the levels of 10th, intermediate, and post graduation if the child
achieves a 1st class grade, will be eligible for an incentive of for Rs. 2000 for girl child
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and Rs. 1500 for the boy will be awarded. This reveals high levels of transparency
and professionalism by the Institution.
KHADI PROFILE-XIV: BAPUJI KHADIRURAL DEVELOPMENT
ASSOCIATION, PRODDATUR, KADAPA DISTRICT
Introduction: This was a directly aided institution of CKVI consisting of 100
spinners and 58 weavers as members. At present there are only 28 active members in
the institution. It is categorized in the ‘C’ category by the CKVI.
Production: production of cotton Khadi is of value Rs.5.88 lakhs.
Products: Cotton Yarn, Muslin Khadi, Cotton Khadi Fabric, Towels and
Dhotis.
Marketing: The institution has only wholesale marketing. The wholesale of
cotton Khadi was of value Rs. 4.77 lakhs. The retail bhandars are inactive. Their
production is available in the Khadi bhandars of other institutions.
The secretary of the institution was of the opinion that, most of weavers
shifted to silk weaving and reeling activities. They prefer to work under master
weavers as it is fetching them more work and money.

4.2. PROFILES OF HANDLOOM CENTERS OF ANDHRA PRADESH


PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER -I: POCHAMPALLY HANDLOOM
WEAVERS CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETY LIMITED, POCHAMPALLY,
NALGONDA DISTRICT
Introduction: The Pochampally handloom weavers’ co-operatative society
limited located at M.G.Road of Pochampally was established in the year 1955 A.D.
with 85 lakhs investment and 750 weavers as members. All the Government schemes
were implemented through the society. Pochampally registered its products and
techniques with World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO), intellectual
property rights under Geographical indications category with the efforts made by
commissioner of handlooms and textiles and weavers’ service center, Andhra
Pradesh. Total of 15 members were holding the office. Membership fee of Rs. 50/-
was collected from the weavers. It was observed that, from past 6 years new members
are not joined since there is no work.
Production: Hank yarns and dyes were given to the weavers through National
Handloom Development Corporation. Mulberry Silk yarn is obtained from Karnataka
Silk Marketing Board (KSMB). Mulberry silk was given in grey form. Weavers have
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to do the degumming process. Cotton yarn was obtained from Mumbai of count 40s
and 80s. NHDC procures these yarns from different organizations through cash
transactions rather than credit.
Training was given by the weavers service centre in the jacquard weaving,
dyeing techniques to get various colour combinations and their usage in ikat
technique. Work is provided to them through the society and wages are paid as per the
government norms. A sum of Rs.1500/- to Rs.2000/- is paid per every eight (8)
sarees.
Quality is checked by the production managers and if there is any damage it is
returned to the weavers. Also the yarn value is cut down from the final saree price.
Products: Silk Sarees , Mercerized cotton Sarees, Double cot bed sheets,
Single cot bed sheets, Furnishing fabric and Dress material yardages.
Marketing: They have both wholesale and retail sales through their own retail
outlet at pochampally. They also have the facility provided by the Government sales
outlets like APCO, Lepakshi, and Handloom House with a good price for their
products. Recently, they could bag the order of air hostess sarees for Air India and
supplied the stocks.

PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –II :CHOWTUPPAL HANDLOOM


WEAVERS CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETY LIMITED, CHOWTUPPAL,
NALGONDA DISTRICT
Introduction: The society was registered in the year 1966 A.D. with 460
members of which only 83 members, women constituting nearly 50%. Most of them
have fine weaving skills also expertise in preparatory process like scouring,
bleaching, tie and dye.
Raw material: The mulberry silk, cotton yarn, Surat tested zari and dyes are
supplied by National Handloom Development Corporation (NHDC) through the
society.
Production: The warp for 8 sarees is given to weavers through the society.
The plain weft is given which is tie and dyed by the weavers themselves. Some of the
weavers are also trained in natural dyeing by the weavers’ service center. Silk tie and
dye sarees with patola design are woven especially for the markets Gujarat and
Maharastra. Wages paid to the weavers are around Rs.1200/- to Rs.1500/- per eight
(8) sarees as per society norms.
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Products: Pochampally Patola silk, mercerized cotton sarees, ikat dress


material yardages (2/80s), bed sheets, furnishing yardages (2/40s)
Marketing: The institute has both wholesale and retail sales through its own
sales outlet, APCO sales depots and handloom house. Consumers of near by villages
and cities also purchase directly from the weavers. There is also facility of ordering
the preferred designs directly with weavers.
PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –III : SRI RANGANAYAKULA
SWAMY SILK WEAVER’S CO-OPERATIVE PRODUCTION AND SALE
SOCIETY LIMITED, KADARBAD, PRODDATUR, KADAPAPA DISTRICT.
Introduction: Proddatur weavers were famous for weaving fine cotton sarees
of 100s and 120s. From past 15 years they got adopted to silk weaving due to the
development of sericulture in the neighbouring state Karnataka. Due to lack of
demand, with same skills of the weaver, when silk was woven, the wages paid were
high because of more market demand for silk products. Most of these weavers from
neighbouring villages like Thondaladinne, Kadarbad, Ooturu, Yamavaramu,
Cheppalli, Payasampalle migrated to Proddatur due to good transportation facilities
and better market.

Raw material: For warp filature yarn of 20-22 deniers 2 ply are used. Good
quality silk yarn is used for filature. Low quality silk is used as weft called dupion
yarn. For weft dupion silk yarn of 100 denier in single ply are used. The yarn is
purchased from central silk board or from local yarn dealers. From the cacoon the
‘kaccha’ or the raw silk yarn is obtained. This kaccha was purchased which was given
‘puri’ or twisted. This twisted silk is degummed where 25-30% of weight loss occurs
leaving silk with a good luster. This was called ‘pecka’ which is dyed in different
colours. For 60 meters of silk fabrics 1550grams of silk Kaccha i.e. before
degumming is required as warp/ filature and 7 kilograms o dupio before degumming
is required.1160 grams for every meter of 44” width fabric i.e. approximately 95-100
grams per meter.
There are a large number of weavers who have left weaving profession and
eke-out their livelihood from reeling of silk yarn. Electric power is used for reeling,
twisting, warp beam spinning and bobbin winding.
Production: Weavers get raw materials from society.“Padugu” the warp and
“Pecka” the weft are given to them. The weavers have to weave according to the
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design. They work on wage basis. Plain yardages of 44” shirting export quality, they
are paid Rs. 20/- per meter and for every colour Rs.1/- extra. The woven fabric has to
be handed over to the society and it is weighed and compared with the raw material
weight. The waste broken yarns are also to be handed over at the same time.
Products: Dupion silk cloth for furnishings weighing 170 grams per meter,
shirting of export quality weighing 90-95grams per meter, dress material yardages
weighing 90-95 grams per meter, Dharmavaram silk sarees.
Marketing: They have both wholesale as well as domestic retail sales and
also sell through APCO sales depots.
Master weavers of Proddatur
The master weavers are very active at Proddatur. These silk products have got
a very good export demand. Most of the business is through connected Bangalore city
which is nearby to Proddatur. The master weaver secures orders either from the
suppliers or exporters. The buyers give orders to traders. These traders in turn order to
suppliers also called master weavers. These master weavers get the fabric woven from
the weavers working for him. All the risk of investment is by the master weaver. And
if he is able to export successfully, he makes a large profit. Some of the weavers with
good education have turned into brokers or intermediaries, making their own share in
this supply chain.
Swatches of samples are maintained with a good number of latest designs,
colour palette. These swatches books are shown to the exporter through traders. Once
the order is received, the master weavers get activated. Only 5-6% variation was
accepted in the colors. Fabric faults, colour variations and weaving defects are strictly
rejected. There was 5-10% chance of rejection. Rejected goods are sold for 60-70%
rate in the local market. For the actual price of Rs.200/- per meter, only Rs.120/- per
meter is priced in the local market. The losses have to be born by the master weaver.
Quality control measures are followed strictly. This is the only place where the
researcher observed the fabric inspection machine for inspecting the fabric faults.
Master Weavers employed appraisers who check the weavers’ work. Before
starting the bulk production, the samples are sent to SGS India Ltd.-Textile testing
laboratory of Bangalore, New Delhi. The samples are tested for their colour fastness
to light. MBTL method is used at consumer products laboratory services, SGS House,
Chennai. If the colourfastness rating is 4-5 it is accepted by the buyers and if it is 2-3
then the consignment is rejected. And it is important to note that all this process is
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time bound. The master weaver invests Rs.75, 000/- per loom per three (3) months.
No retail orders are accepted.
PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –IV : MADHAVARAM HANDLOOM
WEAVERS’ CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETY, KADAPA DISTRICT
Introduction: There are more than eight nearby villages who get work from
Madhavaram handloom weavers’ co-operative society. The weavers in surrounding
villages visit the society once or twice in a month, take the orders, raw materials for
production and get back with woven goods
Production: The pitlooms are seen inside the houses of every weaver. The
dyed yarns are supplied to the weavers for subsidized prices from society. Also,
design inputs are given to them. Highly skilled weavers are seen in Madhavaram,
which is evident from the intricate designs, fineness in the weaving and folding of the
sarees.
Products: cotton sarees of fine count 100s, 120s with real or tested zari
borders and pallav woven with jacquard designs

Marketing: Both wholesale and retail marketing is observed. There is high


demand for Madhavaram sarees on par with Venkatagiri sarees of coastal Andhra due
to their comfort, designs and colours.
PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –V : HANDLOOM WEAVERS’ CO-
OPERATIVE PRODUCTION AND SALES SOCIETY LIMITED, IJA ,
GADWAL, MAHABOOBNAGAR DISTRICT
Introduction: It is located at Ija of Gadwal in Mahaboobnagar district. It was
established in the year 1951 A.D. under Directorate of Handloom, Hyderabad.
Financial help was obtained from district co-operative bank.
Through this society, various Government schemes are implemented like
product package scheme, implemented through assistant director; sub-office of
handloom directorate located at Mahaboobnagar district. Under this scheme one
hundred members (100) were given training for one month with a stipend of Rs. 900/-
per month. Already existing members were trained in alternative skills.
Raw material: Yarn is provided through APCO. 60% based on bill. If stock is
not available from APCO. Yarn is purchased from Adoni. Loan is taken from DCCB
Bank for procuring yarn on 11% interest. Dyeing is being done from Adoni,
Vijayawada, per every 5kgs of yarn dyeing Rs. 150/- is paid as dyeing charges and
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Rs.50/- as bleaching charges. Sometimes dyed yarn is procured from Vijayawada,


from private people. All the necessary technical support is obtained from APCO.
Production: Looms were provided by Society to the weavers. Rs. 6000/- is
paid per frame loom used for the weaving of towels and Rs. 7000/- is paid per pit
loom with Dobby attachment used for the weaving of Gadwal Cotton Sarees. The
wages paid to the weavers differ between product varieties. The wages paid for Towel
of length 72/36 inch width is Rs.11/-, Towel of length 64/36 inch width is Rs.6.60 and
Towel of length 54/27 inch width is Rs.5.25.
It takes forty-five (45) minutes to one hour to weave one towel. Warping
charges are paid as specified by costing charge of APCO. When I visited the place
they got an order for the production of 1500 meters of Plain Polyester fabric of count
2/60 from APCO. The raw material was sent by APCO and they fixed wage of Rs.8/-
per meter and 9 percent profit for the Society. The zari is procured from Kurnool and
Gadwal. Silk is obtained from Bangalore. Cotton yarn of 80S count – Annapurna
variety is obtained from Vijayawada. All these raw materials are the essential
elements in the weaving of Gadwal Sarees. Characterized by cotton body, silk border
with sari brocade and pallav in silk and zari brocade. When I visited the place, the
weavers were undergoing training in the weaving of Gadwal sarees. The training was
given by the staff members of Weavers Service Centre, Hyderabad. It was observed
that the weavers were not very skilled especially in the interlocking of the body cotton
yarn with the border silk yarn. Hence they needed training in order to improve the
quality of the saree.
Mostly the production is based on orders placed by Divisional Marketing
office of the Andhra Pradesh State Handloom Weavers Co-op. Society Limited,
Secunderabad. There were 15 women artisan weaver members in the society. The
Secretary of the Society states that women artisans maintain time schedule and
quality.
Products: At present this society is producing 1500 towels and Gadwal Saree
production was at stay as it requires high investment.
Marketing: Procuring officers of APCO come to procure the finished
products once in 2-3 months. Last visit was in August 2000 A.D. They give the
payment only after six (6) months.
Gadwal is the most commercialized handloom center with high number of
master weavers, skilled artisan weavers and well established marketing channels. It
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was observed that the master weavers were also weavers but, they took the risk of
investing more money, employed coolie weavers working for them on daily wages
and started production of Gadwal sarees which have high demand in the market. The
work shed is found inside the house of the master weaver where 3 to 6 weavers were
weaving the sarees. The looms are three shuttle pit looms and jacquard looms which
are used to weave innovative designs locally called as “computer borders”. The cotton
yarns in the body of the Gadwal Saree is replaced by ‘Sico’ i.e. Synthetic Yarn and
Tussar Silk with intricate necklace designs in the body of the saree called Kalanjali
designs. Modern colour combinations, both light colours (called English colours
locally) dark traditional colours, mixtures of colour, i.e. warp and weft in different
colours giving a shaded effect were found.
PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –VI :KOTHAKOTA HANDLOOM
WEAVERS CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETY, KOTHAKOTA,
MAHABOOBNAGAR DISTRICT

Introduction: The Kothakota Handloom Weavers’ Co-operative Society was


registered in the year 1954 A.D. with 124 weaver members, 20 staff members and 5
sales persons in the showroom. Through this society ‘State bank of India’ and
‘Andhra Bank’ gave Rs.8000/- per loom as working capital which activated the
production. Andhra Pradesh State Finance Corporation gave assistance of Rs. 1 lakh
to member weavers of the society for constructing the house in the year 1990 A.D.
Raw materials and production: Silk sarees of 5.5 meters are woven with zari
borders and pallav. Warping for 5 sarees weighs around 1200 grams of silk, weft 550
grams, tussah weft weighs 600 grams and zari of 21/2 mark or 10 bobbins are used in
weaving. It takes two months to weave five sarees. Weaver’s wife or a child should
assist in weaving the borders of the saree. Hence, the earnings of Rs.1600/ are to be
counted per 2 persons per month. Dyeing workshop was conducted by weavers’
service centre, Hyderabad which helped them in using the dyeing process with
colorfast dyes.
Products: Specializes in Gadwal type sarees.
Marketing: The society had both wholesale and retail business through its
own retail outlet as well as through APCO sales depots.
There are a number of master weavers in Kothakota. Most of weavers work
for these master weavers. The activity of cooperative society is almost negligible
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when compared to the business of master weavers in the market. The jacquard
attachments were given to the weavers by the master weaver and bind them to work
for him on wage basis. He supplies the raw material, paper designs, and punched
lattice to the weavers. Weavers have to complete the products within specified time
period.
PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –VII : RAJOLI HANDLOOM
WEAVERS CO-OPERATIVE PRODUCTION AND SALES SOCIETY
LTD.RAJOLI, MAHABOOBNAGAR DISTRICT
Introduction: Rajoli Handloom weavers’ co-operative society was
established in the year 1952 A.D. having 35 weaver members, 23 staff members and 5
sales persons in the showroom. The total turnover is Rs.1.10 Crores making Rs.6-7
lakhs profit per annum.
Raw material: The cotton yarn, tussah silk yarns, zari, dyes and chemicals are
supplied to the weaver through the society from NHDC at subsidized prices.

Production: The weavers who are skilled in weaving Gadwal type sarees
have to work throughout the year either from the society or from the master wavers.
This weaving technique requires a pitloom with a jacquard attachment to develop
various intricate designs with zari threads mostly used in the borders and pallav. The
speciality of this weaving is that there are three(3) shuttles carrying three (3) weft
yarns, one interlacing the upper border, one the body and the third the lower border of
the saree. The intricate weavers of Gadwal are so popular that they are the fond
possessions of every women in Andhra Pradesh. The weavers of surrounding villages
have the frame loom who weaves the cotton towels, hand kerchiefs, Dhotis and
Lungis.
Products: Gadwal type sarees, Dhotis, Lungis, Towels and Hand Kerchiefs.
Marketing: They have both wholesale and retail through their own retail
outlet. And also sell through APCO and Handloom House.
PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –VIII : DHARMAVARAM,
ANATAPUR DISTRICT
Introduction: The cooperative societies were dormant though the market is
lucrative. The most popular, traditional weaving center, Dharmavaram with all the
functional activities is fully dominated by master weavers.
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Production: The production was spread in and around Dharmavaram. Most of


the weavers of Tadipatri. Vepulaparthy, Yadiki, Peddapappur etc. The silk yarn, zari
were obtained from master weavers, private vendors.
Products: Pure Silk sarees with zari border, buta and pallav with matching
blouse, the Pavada or Lehangas with matching blouse from 0-12 sizes which can be
stitched from a year old baby girl to adolescent girl respectively, plain sarees with
blouse, plain dress materials. Designs are plain with buta, checks, and stripes,
necklace designs of Kalanjali or allover patterns. All the products were available in
pure silk or in tissue (all over zari). The borders range from 3’-8’ or more as per the
fashion. The products were seen in traditional dark colours with contrasting borders.
With the intervention of fashion designer a range of fashionable colour palette can be
found in Dharmavaram products.
Marketing: There were more than 300 master weavers in and around
Dharmavaram. There was both wholesale and retail for Dharmavaram products. Most
of the master weavers tie up with the retailers of cosmopolitan cities, supplier to
exporters. The distribution channels were well established with in and outside states.
The name of dharmavaram is spelled after the famous sarees of Kanjeevaram. Most of
the times Dharmavaram sarees were sold as Kanchi sarees though they have their own
identity.
PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –IX : SARASWATHI HANDLOOM
WEAVERS COOPERATIVE SOCIETY, MANGALAGIRI, GUNTUR
DISTRICT
Introduction: Fine count cotton woven with real zari was the speciality of
Mangalagiri though today only tested zari is found with reduced fineness. In
Mangalagiri nearly 1617 weavers were under the cooperative fold and more than 3000
artisan weavers were working under the master weavers.
Production: The dyed cotton yarns were supplied to the weavers by the
master weavers as per the order. The design specifications are given to the weavers.
They have to weave with in the time limit without altering the specified quality and
design. The relative humidity in the atmosphere plays a very important role in
weaving these fin count cottons. Preparation of warp by starching these fine yarns,
separation and warp beam preparation is the real task which involves high grade of
skills.
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Products: Cotton sarees (100s and 120s) with traditional pure zari border and
buta, sico sarees with zari border, cotton sarees with pure silk and zari border, shirting
material yardages, dress material yardages, Kalamkari printed on Mangalagiri
materials, dress sets, Kalamkari Dupattas, furnishing yardages, quilts, scarves, indigo
dyed fabrics, ready made shirts from Mangalagiri cotton fabrics. They are available in
solid and shaded colours.
Marketing: they have both wholesale and retail business. The mangalagiri
fabrics have got very high demand in the local, urban and international market.
Hence, there are more than 300 master weavers, each one owning at least 100-400
looms. A number of worksheds with 5-6 looms in each can be seen in mangalagiri. It
is a flourishing business having exports to Japan, Paris, Export orders for shirting
yardages are also received from Chennai and Mumbai. Thus the weavers are not
inclined to work for the cooperative society. They prefer working for the master
weavers as they get continuous work, high wages and personal loans whenever there
was any need without many formalities.
PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –X : THE YEMMIGANUR WEAVERS
COOPERATIVE PRODUCTION AND SALE SOCIETY LIMITED,
YEMMIGANUR, KURNOOL DISTRICT
Introduction: The Society started in the year 1936 A.D.under the leadership
of Late Padmashri Machani Somappa with 20 members, 20 looms and paid up Share
Capital of Rs.170/-. By virtue of the loyalty and cooperation of the members and
sincere and self-less work of the management. The membership increased 2320, with
1190 looms and a paid up Share Capital of Rs.40.00 lakhs during 2003-2004. At
present about 6000 members are depending directly and indirectly by the society.
During the year 1951 A.D. under the leadership of Late Padmashri Machani
Somappa, Weavers Colony has established with 152 houses in a auspicious of 11
cents site costing Rs.6400/-. The cost of the house is realized from members out of
their conversion charges which helped the members to acquire a decent house of their
own.
In Gudikal village the society purchased 1.52 acres at a cost of Rs. 2.50 Lakhs
and distributed the same to 42 members and houses were constructing under A.P.
Housing Scheme. The A.P. Government has also sanctioned 240 Housing-cum-
worksheds to our society members.
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Raw materials: The Government of A.P. imposed 9.25% Excise Duty on the yarn
purchases and since 3 years the yarn rates have been increased from 35% 40% on the
normal rates. Where as the societies purchasing yarn through National Handloom
Development Corporation., will get 9.25% discount by way of exemption of excise
duty. Where as National Handloom Development Corporation accepts orders against
full payment in advance. With these difficulties the society was still able to supply the
yarn to only to few weavers.
Production: The society has produced an average production of Rs. 360.00
Lakhs, of handloom goods and average sales during same period reached to Rs.
450.00 Lakhs approximately. The society is having dyeing unit, hank mercerizing
plant, printing section and designing sections along with main goods godown, and 7
production centers like Yemmiganur, Gudikal, Nandavaram, Nagaladinne,
Gonegandla, Kosigi, Gudur. The technical appraisors are functioning effectively
resulting in production of high quality goods.

The Society was taking up welfare measures to the weaver members such as
a) Production Bonus b) Medical Aid @Rs. 400/- per annum, c) Free books to the
children of members upto Degree level d) Funeral expenses @. Rs. 2000/- is being
paid to the deceased members. Further the society is being paid higher conversion
charges to member when compared with other co- operative societies in the state.
The society was catering various training programmes to weavers in latest
techniques sponsored by District Rural Development Agency and Deen Dayal
Hathkarika Protsahan Yojana schemes to improve their weaving techniques.
In the year of 94-95 the A.P. Government has awarded a cash prize of Rs. 3.00 Lakhs
and Government of India has also awarded a Gold plate for the excellence services
rendered in by the society in Handloom sector.
Products: The society was producing high qualities handloom clothes like
Dhoties, Bed sheets, Mosquito Nets, Shirting, Towels, Lungies, Guaze Bandage
Cloth, Pure Silk Sarees and other allied handloom products. Cotton Bed Sheets,
Blankets, Towels, Lungies, Dhotis and Hand Kerchiefs being the most popular.
Marketing: The society had purchased sales depots at various places. The society
was having 48 depots Sales spreading over I Andhra Pradesh and Karnataka States
upto 2003.
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Short fall of working capital, procurement of Raw materials had become difficult
in view of short fall in funds. The society was unable to provide full time work to
members. The depots are out of stock. All these factors leaded to drop in production,
sales and resulted in loss for the first time in 2001-2002, the same trend is continuing
during 2002-2003 also. If the Government can fulfill certain financial needs put forth
by the society then they can uplift the member’s financial status since they are solely
dependent on the society by producing handloom goods for the yarn supplied by the
society.
PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –XI : SRI CHAMUNDESHWARI
HANDLOOM WEAVERS CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETY, MANULALAPETA,
VENKATAGIRI, NELLORE DISTRICT
Raw materials: the fine count cotton yarn of 100s, 120s was purchased from
NHDC and sometimes when the demand is more also purchased from private yarn
traders of Hindupur. Tested zari from Surat.
Production: The weaver’s of the society were trained in designs and in dyeing
processes with colourfast dyes at weavers’ service center. The society had its own
dyeing unit and yarns are dyed to match the design. These dyed yarns were sized
before supplying to the weavers. This way the uniformity of colour in the production
is maintained and bulk orders are taken up for production.
Products: Dress materials with zari borders, fine cotton saress with zari
borders, salwar kameez sets, dhotis and shirting material.
Marketing: Both wholesale and retail business through cooperative sales
outlet and through APCO sales depots. There was high demand for these sarees both
in the local and in other states due to the comfort and dignity of draping these sarees.
Also a number of independent weavers are found both Padmasali and other caste can
be seen in weaving profession.
PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –XII : VENKATESHWARA
HANDLOOM WEAVERS CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETY, EPURUPALEM,
CHIRALA, PRAKASAM DISTRICT
Introduction: This society was formed in the year 1988 A.D. to replace the
Duggirala Gopala Krishnaiah co-operative society. There were 120 weavers working
for the society. The society provides work to all the weaver members. The house-
cum-workshed scheme was implemented through the former society. Under this 100
houses were constructed with place for loom inside the house. Thus, hundred weaver
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members got benefited in this scheme. There has been large scale migration of
weavers into Chirala area due to the export market demand. This has led to the
emergence of worksheds in this area.
Most of the weavers were highly skilled and adopted the jacquard weaving
and converted their looms to jacquard looms. Each household has one pit loom with
jacquard attachment.
Raw Materials: National Handloom Development Corporation (NHDC) the
yarns and dyes are supplied to the weavers through the society. Tested zari from Surat
is used for the borders. Natural dyes and chemicals were used by some of the weavers
who received training under various Government projects. Some of the weavers
working under master weavers, designers and NGOs also adopted to natural dyeing
and new designs.
Production: The access to export markets that Chirala traditionally had gives
it a unique position in Andhra Pradesh Handloom industry. They were once producing
Telia Rumals, Real Madras Hand Kerchiefs (RMHK) for export. When the demand
for these decreased, the entire production changed to weaving jacquard sarees, as well
as dress materials. Today, Chirala is famous for its fine cotton products and natural
dyes being used having the concept of eco-friendly fabrics.
Products: Sarees of 100s, 80s with jacquard designs, Dress materials, Dhotis,
Lungis, RMHK, Shirting Material Yardages.
Marketing: The primary target being the domestic, urban market and
exports. They have wholesale and retail through APCO and own retail outlets located
at various district of Andhra Pradesh.
The organizational structure corresponding to this production has been one
where a large chunk of weavers work under the master weaver, though there have
been a noticeable number of independent weavers too, who own looms and weaver at
home but, market their products to master weavers. The proliferation of master
weavers into Chirala area is another noteworthy phenomenon.
PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –XIII : SAIBABA HANDLOOM
WEAVERS’ CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETY, PONDUR, SRIKAKULUM
DISTRICT
Introduction: The Saibaba Handloom Weavers’ Co-Operative Society,
started it production in the year 1942 A.D. with 1000 weavers as members before
independence. Now a registered society with a handful of only 50 active weavers
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remained in the weaving profession. The annual production of the society is


approximately Rs. 13 lakhs. Most of the weavers are living in the households
benefited from the Government Scheme.
Raw materials: The yarns and dyes were supplied to the weavers through the
society NHDC. Tested zari from Surat was used for the borders.
Production: Wages are paid to them when they return with their woven
articles. Through Mill Gate Scheme the yarns were supplied through society. The
fineness of the dhotis and sarees were known to be of high quality. The weaves are
highly skilled. It takes nearly 7-10 days to weave each artifact. The borders were
decorated with traditional design using tested zari and sometimes with Muga silk.
Products: Fine cotton sarees with temple borders, fine dhotis with zai or silk
borders, Kanduva/Angavstram.
Marketing: They market their products through the sales depots of APCO.
The products were in demand in coastal Andhra Pradesh especially in East Godavari,
West Godavari, Visakapatnam, Vizayanagarma, Krishna etc. nearly 75% of its
production was sold through APCO and the other 25% through wholesale and retail
from its own co-operative sales outlets.
Apart from the society, there were master weavers who provide employment
to most of the weavers. The quality and amount of production was entirely different
from that of co-operative society. They had a thorough understanding of the market
and sales were well established in the market.
PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTERS – XIV : NARAYANPET HANDLOOM
WEAVERS COOPERATIVE SOCIETY, MAHABOOB NAGAR DISTRICT
Introduction: The society was formed in the year 1952 A.D. with 363 weaver
members and 3 sales persons
Raw material: cotton, rayon and polyester blends of cotton yarn, silk rayon
and zari are supplied through the society for subsidized prices. Also from local yarn
vendors when there is high demand.
Production: Dyed warp and weft yarn for 12 sarees are given to the weavers.
The pern (weft) winding is performed by the female members and children in the
family. The weaver spends 12-14 hours in the weaving. The weavers have changed
from weaving fine count cotton sarees which had no demand in the market to the
present variety. The change was gradual. The colours from dull shades to bright solid
and union or double colours are adopted. The borders are woven with rayon or silk
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yarns with satin, herringbone designs. The products of Narayanpet were identified as
exportable products by HEPC, and some of the weavers were trained to weave certain
products like furnishings, drapery for export purpose.
Products: Narayanpet cotton sarees with silk/rayon threads in the border look
like that of ilkal sarees of Maharastra.
Marketing: Narayanapet sarees have both wholesale and retail market. They
sell through their own sales outlets as well as through APCO. The best quality
products were send to Maharastra, Gujarat, New Delhi and Kolkata. Distribution was
based on the demand and prior order placed.
The market was dominated by the master weavers in this area. There were
many master weavers providing employment to more than 200 weavers for
production

PLATE
INDIGE
4.3.. DASTKAR ANDHRA-NON GOVERNMENT ORGANISATION
Introduction: Dastkar Andhra began in 1988 A.D. as an offshoot of Dastkar,
Delhi. It was a non-profit trust, registered in 1995 A.D. that works within Andhra
Pradesh to promote the interests of the producer communities within the cotton
handloom weaving industry. The objective of Dastkar Andhra has been “to explore
practically, the possibilities of craft production as a contemporary economic activity
based on traditional skills and resources, and to develop forms of organization that
would ensure wide dispersal of economic returns among the producers”.
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It was a non government organization engaged in the development of natural


dyed and printed products. Initially started at Chirala , they work in close association
with weavers. The natural dyeing is carried out by one master, one assistant ad three
field worker. A team of one designer from National Institute with two assistants work
for design development one at Chirala and the second one at Adilabad.
Production: Production centers were located at 1) Rajavolu, 2) Ganapathi
Handloom weaver’s co-operative society, Angara, 3) Ponduru society, Srikakulum,
4) Pasalapudi, East Godavari, (Natural and chemical dyed), 5) Pulugurtha, East
Godavari (Chemical dyes only), 6) Chirala coastal handlooms. The members of
society which was closed are associated with Dastkar, 7) Kappaladoddi,
Machilipatnam, Krishna district, 8) Isukapalli Handloom Weavers co-operative
society, Repally, Guntur, 9) Koyalagudem, Nalgonda.
Semi Khadi material was developed with warp cotton, weft khadi cotton at
Ponduru Khadi Society and dyed with natural dyes. Saibaba society of ponduru
supplies the raw material and development. Payment is made within one month of the
supply.
The borders of sarees and dress materials were dyed with natural dyes at
pasalapudi, Eat Godavari. Weavers of Rajavolu Hnadloom weavers co-operative
Society, Guntur were ready to do checks design in sarees and dupattas. A team of
designer and field workers were involved with the society to develop 80s /80s saree.
Weavers were given changes to be adopted based on the feed back received at
exhibitions. And only Rajavolu weavers readily adopted the changes and product
development was done. Indigo Research Process was carried out at Kadapa. New
samples were developed and supplied to ‘Fab India’with code numbers, warp and
weft colour specification in order to have ease in ordering.

With a thorough understanding of consumer interests, lower and middle class


ranges were developed. They also produce Khadi yarn at their decentralized spinning
unit of Chirala from power operated charkhas. Wages paid to weavers same as fixed
by Government for the Handloom weavers’ societies.
Products: Dress material sets, Dupattas, cotton sarees of 80s count with tested
zari borders, Indigo dyed yardages, Dhotis, Lungis, Towels, Dress material with zari
and silk thread borders, Hand kerchiefs, Kanduvas or Angavastram, Ikkat materials
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with natural dyeing, household linen-table cloth, Napkin, Bed sheets, Eluru carpets,
readymades stitched by order, Khadi yarn, Kondapalli toys and Ettikopaka toys.
Marketing: Retailing was started in the year 1997 A.D. opening a retailoutlet
by one of the member at her house naming it as ‘Gautami’. She approached Mahila
mandals for exhibitions and awareness campaigns about the living conditions of
weavers. Also counseling was given to people to get involved in marketing. With a
small deposit of money, stock was given to sell at houses and unsold stock has to be
returned with in a month.
One marketing person works to get orders from other states with the help of
field workers from Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai and Kolkata. The seven retail branches of
Fab India orders of not less than 20,000 meters per annum.
Marketing Strategies followed were, word of month marketing,Participation in
Nature Bazaar exhibition, New Delhi. Export to Dalailama Charitable Trust, Indigo
dyed products to Japan, export to Richard Jones of Netherlands.
Their opinion was that, weaving defects and patches in dyeing are very
common and consumers are counseled or made aware of it while selling their
products.
4.4. CASE STUDIES OF KHADI AND HANDLOOM WEAVERS

CASE STUDY-I : MALLESH CHINTAKINDI


Twenty eight year old Mallesh Chintakindi lives with his father, mother,
brother and sister in Aleru. He had a scientific approach, who invented “Aasu
machine” during May, 1999 A.D. His father migrated to Aleru in the year1993 A.D.
for his livelihood from Siricilla. Being from a weaver’s family - Padmasali
community, Mallesh keenly observed that his mother took one whole day to prepare
aasu (weft) as a preparatory step, before starting the weaving. Weaving is such a
profession which demanded the participation of all the family members, he found that
young girls, and boys and wife of the weaver in every family involved totally in Aasu
preparation.
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During 1995 A.D., when the market for handlooms suffered, he migrated to
Hyderabad for livelihood. Being educated upto intermediate (10+2), he learned
electric work in Musheerabad videocon service centre. Having conceived the idea of
“Aasu machine” he worked hard for four years and spent money to develop the
machine. The “Aasu machine” he invented is an essential requirement for all those
working with loom and especially useful for ikkat weaving. It requires 9000 rounds of
weft yarn to be wound on Aasu machine hand operated. So, the Mallesh’s Aasu
machine has a capacity of 600-9800 rounds per hour with counter attachment to
regulate. It is fully automatic machine and stops on its own according to the settings
and has the advantage of no yarn breakage. Even if yarn breakage occurs, the machine
stops immediately.
Department of sericulture, Bangalore had recognized “Aasu machine” through
silk board, Hyderabad. They had given financial support to establish a workshop at
his house. One of Rs.3, 30,000/- and one of Rs.1, 80,000/- had being given for
purchasing the machinery. 30%of the total loan is to be paid back. Sericulture
department of Thailand had approached him through Bangalore office and they
recognized “aasu machine” and had taken demonstration of its operation.
Till date he had prepared fifty Aasu machines and installed them at places like
Chanduru, Puttapaka, Nalgonda, Chowtuppal etc. 6 Aasu machines are working at
silk nagar itself. Each “Aasu machine” costs Rs. 50,000 and it can serve the weft
requirement for ten (10) looms.
Mallesh want to improve it by his own education or through help. He is
putting efforts for the reduction of cost. He thinks that market is the main drawback
for the handloom products. Hence, there is no standard regular income for the weaver
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which causes all the other problems. He feels they should get good amount of money
in off season also.

CASE STUDY II : SWAMY G.

Swamy G. was thirty eighty years old, independent weaver from past 20 years.
He was living in Chowtuppal with his wife and daughter. He belongs to Padmasali
community. He was working for wages (job work) due to the debt he took for his
daughter’s marriage from Satyanarayana master weaver.
He was weaving eight sarees in one month with the help of his wife and
daughter. He is paid Rs. 2000/- as wage by the master weaver. He studied upto 4th
class and learned weaving with interest. He migrated to silk nagar from Mantapur in
1993 and is member of co-operative society. Independently, he was earning Rs..
2500/- per month with his single loom

PLATE
He invested Rs. 2,500/-per loom of which Rs. 1,500/- per simple loom and Rs.
1,000/- per jacquard attachment. While he was independently weaving, he procured
the raw materials from Jangaom and Pochampally. It took 1 kg of warp and 32 kgs of
weft to weave 8 sarees and costed Rs. 1,500/- per Kilogram of Silk Yarn. Colour costs
Rs. 200/- for 2-8 colours and he used maximum 3-4 colours per saree. Zari cost Rs.
250/- per packet where as only ½ packet per saree is required. The colours used are
colorfast to washing and light.
He preferred private market than selling to society due to high profit. He feels
dissatisfied in market due to lack of market for handloom products.
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CASE STUDY- III : YERRAGANTLA SATYANARAYAN


Yerragantla Satyanarayan was fifty five (55) years old living with his father,
wife and three sons. He belongs to Padmasali community. He owns four looms and
employed 3 weavers on salary basis.In the year 1988 A.D. his father migrated from
Tanguturu to Aleru due to loss in business. In the year 1992 A.D.he developed “Aasu
machine”. Nine years he worked for it. Mallesh developed on this machine. Ion one
day Aasu can be prepared for 4 sarees that is approximately two(2) hours per each
saree.
He gets order from “Vanitha sarees”- owned by Amarender and Goverdhan of
Pochampally. He does dyeing at home itself and runs own business. He employed
three weaver paying Rs. 1400/- per month. On each loom warping is done for eight
sarees. Each weaver employed weaves 5-8 sarees per month. He spends Rs. 6000/- for
raw materials, i.e. silk yarn and dyes etc. and gains a profit of Rs. 2,000/- per 8 sarees.
The time taken may be one month to one month plus12 to 15 days.
He says just for the sake of membership the handloom co-operative society
exists. We are not totally dependent on society. We don’t have other skills but we are
improving the quality. Bank provides only Rs. 10,000/- for investing in the raw
materials based on the permanent property surety. So, we cannot develop on it. My
own father Yerragantla Pundari, 64 year old was doing the same designs he inherited/
leaned. From the year 1965 A.D. onwards he was doing the tie and dye or ikkat in the
sarees. He did it on cotton. From the year 1975 A.D. onwards we adopted silk.
Previously he was doing broad designs but now changed over new small designs as
specified by Pochampally orders. The naksha is given to the weavers and are assisted
in weaving new designs.
Never had he tried for double ikkat. It takes minimum of Rs. 1100/- to 1600/-
for raw materials per each saree. Surat zari was used for golden borders. Weavers are
trained in making buta designs. They have all ordinary jacquard looms and punch
cards.

CASE STUDY-IV : CHINTAKELLI KISHTAYYA


Chintakelli Kishtayya was eighty (80) year old weaver. He belongs to
Padmasali community. He migrated to Pochampally two years back from
Goverayyapalli, because the silk merchants never used to visit that village. Since the
merchants visit Pochampally very frequently, Kishtayya took decision to migrate. He
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lost his eye sight due to some green solution poured into his eye by some local

medical practitioner.
Due to illness and old age he was doing job work for master weaver of
Jangaom. He was weaving only single ikkat sarees in cotton. He earns Rs.500/- per
saree. One saree took one week to weave completely. His son was providing shelter to
him in a kaccha house with two looms placed inside. At this stage of life he wants to
retire from weaving and requests for provision of old age pension as he was unable to
work. His input per day was only 2 meters.

CASE STUDY-V : PUNJALA VENKATESH

Punjala Venkatesh of Kothkota was thirty nine years old and studied 10th class.
He was married with 4 children living in a joint family. He belongs to Padmasali
community and weaving was their family occupation. He acquired the skills since his
childhood. He was member of Kothakota Handloom weavers’ co-operative society.
But, due to lack of work from the society, he was working under a master weaver. He
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also got trained in a workshop on dyeing of silk by weavers service center.

PLATE 6:
LOOM IN
His expertise in weaving traditional sico sarees on jacquard loom. He works
more than 10 hours to eke-out his livelihood. His wife has to help in weaving activity
based on the design requirement. Hence the earnings Rs.800-1000/- per month are the
payments given to two persons. He was aware of some of the Government schemes.
Hence, he got benefited in the house-workshed scheme of Government 8 years back.
He was of the opinion that “working capital is the main problem in the
weaving profession”. If they got the credit, they end up paying the high rate of interest
if the goods are not sold in time. Hence, he prefered to work on wage basis under
master weaver to avoid the risk. He states that, if I can get atleast one customer from
city who can pay minimum cost for my sarees, I’ll be able to feed my children. He
refuses to involve his children in weaving profession.

CASE STUDY-VI : DUGGA CHADRASEKHAR


Dugga Chadrasekhar was thirty three years old and studied upto 8th class. He
lives in Rojoli with his mother and wife. He belongs to Padmasali community. He is
a member of Rojoli handloom weavers’ co-operative society. But, he is working
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independently. He inherited weaving from his forefathers and also leaned the art of
dyeing. All the preparatory works involved before weaving are done at home with the
help of family members. His mother is a spinner and wife helps in the weaving of

PLATE 7
saree.
He was highly skilled and weaving skills can be seen from the sarees he has
woven. He has a jacquard loom at his residence and weaves sico (silk/cotton) and
tussar Gadwal sarees. He works for more than 12 hours per day and weaves 3 sarees
in a month. He sells them to master weavers or local retail shops with a marginal
profit.

CASE STUDY-VII : VARADA SUBBARAYUDU


Varada Subbarayudu was fifty three years old living with his wife and five
children in Proddatur. He belongs to Padmasali community. He was involved in the
reeling of silk and warp beam preparation. He is a skilled weaver of Proddatur fine
cotton sarees with zari borders which have lost market due to the invasion of silk into
the market.
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Figure 1: PITLOOM WEAVING BY V.SUBBARAYUDU,PRODDATUR

Though he was a member co-operative society, he works for as independent


weaver. The raw material is purchased from private yarn dealers and spools are to be
handed over sold as per the weight. He has purchased the reeling machine through the
society for a subsidised price. The reeling machine is power operated. His wife and
children helps him in the process. His work starts as soon as he wakes up early in the
morning and works for at least 16 hours per day.
He earns nearly Rs.3000-4000/- per month. He has educated his children. His
eldest girl did her B.Ed. and works as a teacher in a school.

CASE STUDY-VIII : SIRIVERU NARAYANASWAMY


Siriveru Narayanaswamy was forty eight years old belonging to padmashali
community. He was educated upto primary school and works as independent weaver
in Dharmavarm. He lives in nuclear family with his wife and four children who go to
school. He says, his father wanted to educate him but he liked weaving. He migrated
to Dharmavaram from Sunkesal of Kadapa district. He migrated as Dharmavaram has
better market facitlity.
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PLA
He had a loom located inside the house. He learned weaving Dharmavaram
variety saree woven with buta designs. He weaves 8 silk sarees of 6.20 meters with
blouse per month. It takes 24 days per month two days loom is idle for piecing. The
setting of lattice, degumming, dyeing warp, strtching the warp, dyeing the weft,
winding weft, zari winding on charkha are the preparatory processes involved in the
process which are performed with the help of his wife and children.

It involved Rs. 17,000/- to 20,000/- for the warp of 8 sarees and Rs.3000/ to
change the punch cards for every design. Four varieties of sarees are woven in one
colour. Rs.150-160/ are paid for piecing. He earns Rs. 11,000/- per month. He has
expertise in changing 3-4 types of designs every year. He is of the pinion that this
variety of silk sarees cannot be woven in powerlooms. Hence, there is no competition.
He doesn’t want to train his next generation in weaving.

CASE STUDY-IX

Alivelu was fourty eight years old and was living with her husband and two
children in a kaccha house in NagarKurnool, Mahaboobnagar district.. Spinning
charkha was her way of life from her 8 years of age. She was a member of Khadi
institution.
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PLATE 1

She winds cotton yarn onto spools which were placed inside the shuttle that
carry the weft yarn while weaving. She winds 10-12 spools per day. Her wages are
Rs.3/- to 5/- per day amounting to Rs. 1800/- per month. She works more than 12
hours per day apart from household work at the same time taking care of children.

Her goal was to have an own house. Her ambition is to educate her children so
that they get well paid jobs in big offices.

CASE STUDY-X

Ramaiah was thirty six years old living in Srikakulum. He lives in a nuclear
family with his wife and three children. His children are studying in primary school.
He studied up to sventh class. He has two pit looms inside his house. One is idle since
his father’s death. Weaving was his family occupation and from his childhood it has
been the day to day activity. It is a well known job for him and he acquired the skills
from his elders. He works 20-22 days a month and the other days are spent in
preparatory processes. He spends 10-12 hours per day in weaving activity.

His expertise was in weaving traditional cotton dhotis with coloured or zari
borders. He was a member of cooperative society but, he works for a mater weaver.
He says no more I’m weaving the traditional motifs as plain and checks designs are
ordered by the master weaver. He was of the opinion that, working under master
weaver was compulsory since no help is extended from any cooperatives or from
Government to invest on our work.
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PLATE 1

He feels that he can weaver a better quality fabric and design provided he can
get raw materials. He has no purchasing capacity to buy the raw materials. Raw
materials are given by the master weaver and Ramaiah has to get back with the
finished products with in a time period specified by the master weaver.

Ramaiah had no idea about where his products were sold and for how much.
He expressed that “if I change the profession and place, so many fluctuations and
disturbances can arise. So, I would prefer to continue here”.

CASE STUDY-XI

Pushpalatha S. was thirty seven years old living in Madhavaram. She was a
widow living with her two sons who are studying in Poly technique and intermediate.
She is independent weaver belonging to Padmasali community. She was helping her
husband in the preparatory processes but took over weaving after his death.

PLA
She has a pit loom with dobby attachment to weave the border of the saree and
“Dhadi” attachment for weaving the pallav designs. She weaves fine cotton sarees of
100

100s with one side zari border and pallav decorated with zari. Dyed yarn for weaving
six (6) sarees is give by the master weaver. Warp sizing is done by her to make it stiff
and strong. Designs are specified by the master weaver.

For weaving six sarees of 5.5. meters length without matching blouse, 3 ½
bundles of warp (Padhu), 2 ½ bundles of weft (Padugu) and one (1) mark zari or 4
bundles are tested zari are used. She changes the border design as per the market
demand. Sometimes she weaves polyester cotton saress or silk shirting yardages as
per the order received by the master weaver. She works for 30 days per month and 12-
14 hours per day. She gets paid Rs. 100/- per saree and she manages to weave 25-30
sarees per month earning nearly Rs. 3000/- per month.

These products were in demand in local market especially lower class, middle
class and agricultural labourers wear these sarees. Each saree costs Rs.250/- and
Rs.350/- for mercerized cotton in the retail market.She finds the difficulty when there
is health problem. As there is no facility for continuous work, she is planning to open
a grocery shop at her residence itself.

CASE STUDY-XII

Kunkumalla Ranga Rao was fifty four year old weaver belonging to Padmasali
community living in Illavaram. He lives in his own house with his wife, mother and
three children. He was educating his children. He was a member of The Guntur Zilla
Khaid Gramodhyog Samithi, Guntur.

PLA
101

He weaves the polyvastra fabric for the The Guntur Zilla Khaid Gramodhyog
Samithi, Guntur. The polyester cotton hand spun yarn was supplied through the
society. He manages to weave 2 ½ to 3 meters of fabric per day. He worked at least
10-12 hours per day and almost 30 days a month unless he had to attend something
urgent.

His wages are fixed as per the cost sheet of the KVIC. He had received the
artisan welfare fund from the trust of The Guntur Zilla Khaid Gramodhyog Samithi as
his son passed 10th class in first division. He was educating him further and doesn’t
want to involve his children in weaving profession.

CASE STUDY-XIII

Markandeyulu Sherla was forty three years old living in a joint family in
Wavilal. He belong to Kurnisali community. He lives with his wife and one son. His
son was studying in primary school. He was member of Metpally Khadi Gramodhyog
Pratisthan.

He learned weaving form his father and now he expertises in weaving cotton
Khadi shirting cloth with self checks. He was living in a semi pacca house. He has
one pit loom located inside his house. The fabric is woven with 42-44” width. He can
weave 2-2 1/2 meters per day if he works for 10-12 hours per day. He works for 6
days in a week. Sunday and festival days are considered as holidays.
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He feels that weaving involves a lot of hardship and paid less. He wants to
work as weaver as he doesn’t know any other work. Wages are received regularly
from the Khadi institution and he earns Rs.2500/- to Rs.3000/- per month. Once in a
year the unsold defective pieces are given to the weavers and spinner from institution.
This fulfills the clothing consumption of his family to some extent. He request for
increase in wages in order to have a better livelihood.

CASE STUDY-XIV

Yadagiri was forty seven years old Padmasali weaver living in Narayanapet in
a semi pacca house. He was a weaver working for master weaver. He is living in a
nuclear family with his wife and two children. Weaving is hereditary for their family.
Even his four brothers were also in the same profession. He had one pitloom at his
house.

He took Rs 2000/- from the master weaver for buying tools necessary to
improve his loom. Hence, he was bound to work for him as gratitude. He works from
7.30 am to 6.00 pm in order to weave 8 sarees per month. He adopted new designs
which have better market demand.
103

PLATE

He was of the opinion that ‘the traditional products what my father was
weaving are not in demand today’. I weave as per the order given by the master. The
new designs were like Maharastra sarees. The raw materials, designs, colour
specifications are given by the master weaver. His future ambition was to have at least
another loom and employ a coolie weaver in order earn more livelihood.

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