The results of the present research study were organized into the following
sections.
QUALITATIVE DATA
1 Profiles of Khadi institutions
2 Profiles of Handloom centers
3 Case studies of weavers
This helped to understand the present scenario of the Khadi and Handloom
FIGUR
SECTION I:
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carding and drawing sliver takes place. The drawing sliver is being supplied to
artisans engaged in the rural areas. The installed capacity of carding unit was
54,771 Kgs per annum with a view to ensure best quality of drawing to be given to
artisans. The Samithi installed a simplex machine with the KVIC financial assistance
in the year 1996-97 and also undertaken the job-works of other Khadi institutions.
Polyvastra Khadi: - It has five units to produce Polyvastra Khadi. The raw
materials of Polyvastra Khadi have been obtained from KVI C central sliver plants.
Silk Khadi: - The Samithi has introduced in 1995-96 Silk Khadi production
of Tie and Dye Pochampally Sarees, which is in high demand in the country.
Products: Cotton Khadi fabric in Single Thread (ST), Double Thread (DT)
for Shirting and Trousers respectively, Khadi denim, Tie and Dye Pochampally
Sarees, Dhotis,Lungis, Hand Kerchiefs, Napkins, Towels in checks, polyvastra (P/C
67/33) fabric for pyjamas and shirtings and also kalamkari bed sheets.
Marketing Channels: This institution has established marketing network
through twelve marketing retail Khadi Bhandars at different districts of the state. A
total of four (4) units each at Nalgonda, Medak and twin cities of Hyderabad and
Secunderabad are retailing for the samithi. Khadi Vastralaya of Saroornagar is the
center for wholesale. All the procurements or purchases were made by this Vastralaya
and products are sent to marketing at Khadi bhandars.
KHADI PROFILE-II: LAKSHMI SILK REELING, TWISTING, WEAVING
INDUSTRIAL CO-OP SOCIETY LTD., CHOWTUPPAL, NALGONDA Dt.
Introduction: Lakshmi Silk Reeling, Twisting, Weaving Industrial Co-Op
Society Ltd. Started its production as a unit of Khadi Board in the year 1988 A.D. and
got recognized by Khadi and Village Industries Commission in the financial year
1991-92 A.D. with loan liabilities of Rs. 4,41,902/-. Central certification committee of
Kaiser Bagh, Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, certified this on 14th January 2000 as validity
of Khadi Certificate No. AP/3967. Renewal of Khadi certificate of this unit for the
period of 2001-2006 A.D. was forwarded. The unit started with 12 members. At
present there are 15 Twisters, 30 Weavers and 20 Reelers co-operating with the
society. The office is held by 8 staff members. It is a medium sized institution
catergorised under ‘B’ category by CKVI based on its performance.
Raw Material: Cocoons are brought from Tirumalgiri Government Cocoons
Market of Secunderabad. When cocoons are not available, yarn is purchased from
Khadi Silk Board licensed by Khadi Board. As per the cost chart of the commission,
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Cocoons cost Rs. 130/- per Kilogram. 20-25% of weight loss would be there while
reeling the cocoons. After reeling, 6 yarns of silk are twisted together to be used for
weaving. The twisting is followed by dyeing process. Usually, bleached yarn is given
to the weavers to be used for the ikat products.
Production: Production centers are located in Narayanapuram, Puttapaka,
Chowtuppal, Gattuppal and Gundurampally. The production capacity of silk khadi
reelig is 10 basis and silk khadi twisting is of 15 spindles.Weavers are given the raw
material, the silk yarn, dyes. Also advance of Rs. 10,000/- and payment for the coolie
is given to the weavers. In tie and dye or ikat technique, chances are there for 40%
defects in the final products. Value of production is Rs.70 lakhs per annum
Products: single ikat pochampally patola sarees, Silk Khadi sarees,dress
materials, shirtings, cotton/silk ikat material yardages.
Marketing: Retail was stopped as the Khadi Bandar was closed in the year
1999 A.D. as sufficient wholesale is there and no risk is involved in the wholesale.
After discount, the institution is able to make 15% profit. But the payment is received
only after 5 years especially from Khadi Gramodhyog Bhavan of Chennai.
The president was of the opinion that weavers are also cheating the society in
spite of so many welfare schemes being offered by the Commission. They take 1500
grams of yarn and sell it in the market and get cheap quality yarn for weaving. Also,
he was of the opinion that, if the product turns out to be of good quality ikat with a
correct matching of design, then the weavers are selling that product to private
retailers, master weavers or to the consumers visiting them. And get back the
defective or low quality ikat to handover to the society.
KHADI PROFILE-III : METPALLI KHADI GRAMODHYOG
PRATISTHAN, METPALLI, KARIMNAGAR Dt.
Introduction:This institution, Metpalli Khadi Gramodhyog Pratisthan,
formed from the division of the Hyderbad Khadi Samithi during the State
reorganization in the year 1967 A.D. Sri. P.V.Narasimha Rao, former prime minister
of India was the chairman of the society. It is a very active institution categorized
under ‘A+’ category by CKVI based on its performance.
Production: The society has production spread at four districts of the state
namely Karimnagar, Nizamabad, Warangal and Khammam districts. There are more
than thousand weavers who are employed under this institution.
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Products: Cotton Khadi, Muslin Khadi, Silk Khadi, Towels, Dhotis, Lungis,
Khadi Sarees, Dress Material Yardages, Hand Kerchiefs and Durries.
Marketing: The marketing is through the state Khadi Bhandars located at
various districts of Andhra Pradesh state. The products are also available at the
certified khadi bhandars at 10 states of India. The total production of the institution is
Rs.108 lakhs of which Rs. 56.33 lakhs are earned from retail sales and Rs.82.14 lakhs
from wholesales.
KHADI PROFILE-IV : WAVILAL KHADI GRAMODHYOG PRATISTHAN,
WAVILALA, KARIMNAGAR DISTRICT
Introduction: It was the year 1929 A.D., they were the days of freedom fight.
Under the leadership of Mahatma Gandhi Indians in every corner of India were united
against on the Foreign rule. Let it be the Government or let it be the clothes. The
greatest visionary of Indian history Mahatma Gandhi was leading India towards
freedom. Freedom and independence from Western life style-for a better tomorrow,
for India to be self sufficient and a strong nation. He wanted the change to start from
rural India. So, he stressed on wearing hand spun and hand woven Khadi and making
products of Village Industries a part of our lives. Thus, strengthening the economy of
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A.D., Mahatma Gandhi identified Gadwal as the potential center for the development
of Khadi industry. He placed his disciples Sri Jajuji and Sri Hanumanth Rao to survey
the situation at Gadwal for its suitability to introduce Khadi. In 1931 A.D. ‘All India
Spinners Association’ was formed at Gadwal. Since the state Andhra Pradesh was not
yet formed at that time, Gadwall was part of Raichur, today a district of Karnataka
state. During the Khadi movement, two female spinners from Harijan community
namely Rosamma from Gadwal and Karremma from Pudur were invited by Gandhiji
to sevagram and were trained to expertise in Khadi spinning. Their performance was
highly appreciated and certified by Srimathi Vijayalakshmi Pandit, Srimati Sarojioni
Devi, Sri Govind Vallbh Pandit and others.It was in the year 1951 A.D. that the All
India Spinners Association, Karnataka Gram Seva Sangh was established by Dr. G.S.
Melkote, as president at Raichur town. Gadwal Samstha existed as a part of it. This is
a decentralized institution from Karnataka Gram Seva Sangham, Raichur registered
during the year 1971 A.D.
In the year 1956 A.D., when Andhra Pradesh formed as a separate state,
Gadwal being included in it. “Gadwal Taluka Khadi Gramodhyog Sangham” was
registered as a separate independent society. Since then the production increased and
it provided employment to 300 people. The main functions include, Khadi Spinning,
weaving, bleaching of kora Khadi cloth. A total of Rs.50 lakhs property is under this
unit. It includes two buildings, a silk spinning and weaving unit, a new model charkha
(NMC) unit, low quality spinning unit at Anantapur, Muslin Khadi spinning and
weaving unit at Ieeja and a spinning unit at Uttanur. At present there are 15 artisans
working under this institution. It is a medium institution categorized under ‘A’
category.
Products: Cotton Khadi, Muslin Khadi, Silk Khadi.
Marketing: They had wholesale and retail sales through Khadi bhandars.
Retailing at Gadwal, Mahaboobnagar and Hyderabad. The Bhandar at Hyderabad was
destroyed by the municipal authorities, referring it as the old building in dilapidation
condition. This caused further difficulties in running the institution.
KHADI PROFILE-VI :GRAMADHAN NIRMAN SAMITHI,
NAGARKURNOOL,MAHABOOBNAGAR DISTRICT
Introduction: The society was registered in the year 1960 A.D. and started its
production from the year 1992 A.D. onwards. This institution was directly owned by
CKVI with 1.5 lakh production and with one workshed having two working looms.
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Only two families are employed under the society. It was categorized in ‘A+’
category by CKVI based on its overall performance.
Raw Material: The cotton was obtained from Rakonda, spinning at
Namidipalli and New Model Charkha (NMC) units are sponsored by District Rural
Development Organisation (DRDO).
Production: The actual production of the institutionis about 24-25 meters of
Kalamkari printing on fabric. Kalamkari printing is done at Pedanna and Gollapalem.
Bleaching of the fabrics is carried out at Bhuvangiri.
Products: Kalamkari printed fabric, Cotton Muslin, Polyvastra, Silk Khadi.
Marketing: The institution has both wholesale and retail sales. Actual
production of cotton Khadi amounts to Rs.2.01 lakhs but the institution earns
Rs. 2.01 lakhs through retail and Rs.6.78 lakhs through wholesale by stocking the
goods produced by other institutions.
KHADI PROFILE-VII : KHADI GRAMA PARISRAMALA SANGHAM,
DHARMAVARAM, ANANTAPUR DISTRICT
Introduction:The Khadi Grama Parisramala Sangham was established in the
year1971A.D. Under the commissioner for Khadi and Village Industries with 10 staff
members and 100 artisan weavers working for the society. The Secretary is
V.Ramudu. It was a silk Khadi institution. It is a medium institution categorized under
‘A’ category.
Production: weaving centre was at Dharmavaram with 70 weavers producing
varieties of silk sarees and Tadiparti with 30 weavers producing varieties of silk
shirting materials, Towels and Dhotis. Cocoons are purchased at the rate of Rs.130
per kilogram and degumming is done by private people charging Rs. 70 per kilogram.
From 10.5 kilograms of cocoon only 1 kilogram of yarn is obtained with 9.5%
wastage. Designs were given by G.S.Chakravarthi who is having 16 years of
experience in weaving. Based on colours and design orders were placed for which
production was carried out. 99% quality was checked at the center only.
Products: Silk Sarees woven with 4’ to 9’ border and pallavs decorated with
jacquard design with blouse available in dark bright, light and shaded colours, plain
silk sarees and silk shirting materials, Dhotis, Towels.
Marketing: Retail outlet at Dharmavaram and wholesale through CKVI to
various institutions. Orders are obtained from Mumbai VT retail outlet and from New
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Delhi. Total turnover is 1.5 crores and 10% of sales from retail. Defective goods are
sold through clearance sales with upto 75% reduction.
Complaints about colour fading and zari defects are received from consumers
through institutions. In those cases replacement was done where they are allowed to
purchase any other item of equal worth. Rebate amount was not cleared in time which
causes trouble. They were of the opinion that provident fund of 12% should be given
to weavers and other artisans. They requested for old-age pension to artisans from the
age of 50 years if they have at least 10 years experience in the activity.
KHADI PROFILE-VIII : RESHAM KHADI GRAMODHYOG SANGHAM,
DHARMAVARAM, ANANTAPUR DISTRICT
Introduction: It was a directly aided institution of CKVI. Raw materials were
obtained through CKVI and also directly from private vendors when demand was not
met by CKVI. It was a medium institution categorized under ‘A’ category.
Production: All the weavers were highly skilled. The Dharmavaram silk
sarees are on par with Kanjeevaram sarees of TamilNadu.
Products: Silk sarees with Zari buta, border, pallav and matching blouse,
plain silk sarees with blouse, silk pavada or lehangas with blouse.
Marketing: There was high demand for Dharmavaram sarees. But,
Dharmavaram Khadi silks were highly priced than the Dharmavaram handloom silk
sarees so do the price.
KHADI PROFILE-IX : GRAMA SWARAJ SANGHAM, KURNOOL
Introduction: The institution was formed during the year 1952 A.D.with
more than 1500 member weavers and spinners. The institution is a directly aided
institution of CKVI. It is a medium institution categorized under ‘A’ category.
Raw Material: the raw material of cotton roving is supplied to the spinners
which are spun and chintelu (spools) are handed over to the institution. The weavers
are given the cotton yarn of 40s, 60s and 80s other necessary raw materials like the zari
and the design details.
Production: There are framelooms as well as pitlooms working in this
institution. Charkha spinning is also taken up as a household activity by the women of
non-weaving class and yarn is exchanged for sarees of their choice.
Products: Muslin Khadi, Cotton Khadi, Cotton Durries, Bed Sheets, Towels,
Dhotis, Lungis and Cotton Sarees with Zari borders
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as security cannot be provided by the institution. Also, they helplessly stated that
every year working capital was facing a downfall.
KHADI PROFILE-XI : A. F. KHADDAR KHADI SANGHAM, PONDUR,
SRIKAKAULUM DISTRICT
Introduction: This is directly aided institution under the regional office of
Visakhapatnam. Pondur is famous for its finest Khadi yarn and fabrics. The clothing
are elegant dignified giving a significant and appealing look, for the persons wearing
it. During the swadeshi movement, these fabrics were very much liked by the
congressmen and therefore created a lot of demand in the market.
Even today the brand name ‘Pondur Khaddar’ fabrics have their own identity
and considered to be of the highest grade fabrics significant as symbolic uniform for
the political leaders. Finest grade of yarn of 100s and 120s count hand spun is
considered to be the brand identity of Ponduru. Wearing ponduru khadi clothings
dress is considered to be symbol of respect, dignity, high status and dignity. The
office constitutes of 30 salaried employees. The total number of spinner are 1098 of
which 1000 are traditional spinner 8 of them are working on NMC and 90 weavers.
Production: The spinning of cotton by hand into a very fine count yarn is the
world known skill of ponduru spinners. The cotton is combed using the bone of a fish.
This helps I separating each fire ad making them more parallel. From these fires very
fine count cotton yarn is spu through Gandhi charkhas and NMCs. It is a highly
skilled job. The total cloth production of cotton Khadi is of value Rs. 70.63 lakhs,
yarn production is Rs.1.12 lakhs, muslin Khadi production is of Rs.3.32 lakhs.
Cocanadas- naturally coloured brownish /off white cotton is also used to spun khaddar
yarn.
Products: Cotton Khadi, Muslin Khadi, Dhotis, Lungis, Angavastram ,
Sarees, Shirting Yardages, Towels, Hand Kerchiefs and Polyvastra.
Marketing: The institution markets their own production as well as sources
products from other institutions. The institution has both wholesale and retail through
its bhandars. The retail sales of cotton khadi are of value Rs. 40.12 lakhs, muslin
Khadi are of value Rs.2.58 lakhs, polyvastra is of value Rs. 4.44 lakhs and silk Khadi
is of value Rs. 4.25 lakhs.
KHADI PROFILE-XII : GRAMA SWARAJYA SANGHAM,
BANGANAPALLI , KURNOOL DISTRICT
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This Samstha consists of 28 NMC Centers having New model Charkha (6/8
spindles) till 1994 -95 A.D. 6 spindle and then 8 spindles. 16 weaving centers,365 pits
looms in working condition out of 565, 6 spindle charkhas – 1100 working 625,12
spindle charkhas 100 working out of 100. The institution has the Polyvastra centre
located at Tadepalli and weaving centre at Illavaram. It was a very advanced
institution and performing well. The total production of cotton Khadi is of value
Rs.96.92 lakhs, polyvastra is Rs. 6.63 lakhs.
Marketing: The entire inventory is maintained through computers.
Production, Purchases from other institutions are sold through wholesale and Retail
sale of Cotton Khadi, muslin Khadi and Polyvastra.
It had 11 Sales centers in Rural area, 9 Sales centers in Urban area. The
institution purchases woollen Khadi and silk Khadi from other institutions and sell
through wholesale and retail sale. Hawking sales are observed from the nine sales
Bhandars of Districts Guntur, Prakasam, Krishna, Nellore and West Godavari.
The Institution enjoys favourable market, since the local environments are
such that 70% of local populations are habitual wearers of Khadi and spinning is
almost a hobby. At present the wholesale of cotton khadi is of value Rs.9.73 lakhs and
retail sales are of value 144.07 lakhs, the polyvastra whole sale is of 0.53 lakhs and
retail sales are Rs.14.77 lakhs, Silk Khadi wholesale amounts to Rs. 9.83 lakhs and
retail sales amounts to Rs. 49 lakhs and woolen Khadi wholesale amounts to 0.06
lakhs ad retail amounts to Rs.0.44 lakhs.
In 1998 A.D. the institution was computerized with its own funds. They
introduced a highly customized, tailor-made software package for inventory
management and account management, which has been a successful operation for the
last five years. Khadi Gramodhyog Bhavan- Delhi, Gandhi Ashram-Lucknow,
Kolkotta bhavan and the bhavan at Ranchi are some of the organizations using the
software developed by this institution.
Spinners are given an identification number and code. With one press of a
button one could see how much spinners were earning month wise, along with their
artisan welfare deduction etc. In 2005 State Level Artisan Welfare and Pension Fund
has been established.Over 84,000 artisans will benefit from this fund and the
institution solely contributes to the fund. Also, had Employees children education
incentive, where in, at the levels of 10th, intermediate, and post graduation if the child
achieves a 1st class grade, will be eligible for an incentive of for Rs. 2000 for girl child
73
and Rs. 1500 for the boy will be awarded. This reveals high levels of transparency
and professionalism by the Institution.
KHADI PROFILE-XIV: BAPUJI KHADIRURAL DEVELOPMENT
ASSOCIATION, PRODDATUR, KADAPA DISTRICT
Introduction: This was a directly aided institution of CKVI consisting of 100
spinners and 58 weavers as members. At present there are only 28 active members in
the institution. It is categorized in the ‘C’ category by the CKVI.
Production: production of cotton Khadi is of value Rs.5.88 lakhs.
Products: Cotton Yarn, Muslin Khadi, Cotton Khadi Fabric, Towels and
Dhotis.
Marketing: The institution has only wholesale marketing. The wholesale of
cotton Khadi was of value Rs. 4.77 lakhs. The retail bhandars are inactive. Their
production is available in the Khadi bhandars of other institutions.
The secretary of the institution was of the opinion that, most of weavers
shifted to silk weaving and reeling activities. They prefer to work under master
weavers as it is fetching them more work and money.
to do the degumming process. Cotton yarn was obtained from Mumbai of count 40s
and 80s. NHDC procures these yarns from different organizations through cash
transactions rather than credit.
Training was given by the weavers service centre in the jacquard weaving,
dyeing techniques to get various colour combinations and their usage in ikat
technique. Work is provided to them through the society and wages are paid as per the
government norms. A sum of Rs.1500/- to Rs.2000/- is paid per every eight (8)
sarees.
Quality is checked by the production managers and if there is any damage it is
returned to the weavers. Also the yarn value is cut down from the final saree price.
Products: Silk Sarees , Mercerized cotton Sarees, Double cot bed sheets,
Single cot bed sheets, Furnishing fabric and Dress material yardages.
Marketing: They have both wholesale and retail sales through their own retail
outlet at pochampally. They also have the facility provided by the Government sales
outlets like APCO, Lepakshi, and Handloom House with a good price for their
products. Recently, they could bag the order of air hostess sarees for Air India and
supplied the stocks.
Raw material: For warp filature yarn of 20-22 deniers 2 ply are used. Good
quality silk yarn is used for filature. Low quality silk is used as weft called dupion
yarn. For weft dupion silk yarn of 100 denier in single ply are used. The yarn is
purchased from central silk board or from local yarn dealers. From the cacoon the
‘kaccha’ or the raw silk yarn is obtained. This kaccha was purchased which was given
‘puri’ or twisted. This twisted silk is degummed where 25-30% of weight loss occurs
leaving silk with a good luster. This was called ‘pecka’ which is dyed in different
colours. For 60 meters of silk fabrics 1550grams of silk Kaccha i.e. before
degumming is required as warp/ filature and 7 kilograms o dupio before degumming
is required.1160 grams for every meter of 44” width fabric i.e. approximately 95-100
grams per meter.
There are a large number of weavers who have left weaving profession and
eke-out their livelihood from reeling of silk yarn. Electric power is used for reeling,
twisting, warp beam spinning and bobbin winding.
Production: Weavers get raw materials from society.“Padugu” the warp and
“Pecka” the weft are given to them. The weavers have to weave according to the
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design. They work on wage basis. Plain yardages of 44” shirting export quality, they
are paid Rs. 20/- per meter and for every colour Rs.1/- extra. The woven fabric has to
be handed over to the society and it is weighed and compared with the raw material
weight. The waste broken yarns are also to be handed over at the same time.
Products: Dupion silk cloth for furnishings weighing 170 grams per meter,
shirting of export quality weighing 90-95grams per meter, dress material yardages
weighing 90-95 grams per meter, Dharmavaram silk sarees.
Marketing: They have both wholesale as well as domestic retail sales and
also sell through APCO sales depots.
Master weavers of Proddatur
The master weavers are very active at Proddatur. These silk products have got
a very good export demand. Most of the business is through connected Bangalore city
which is nearby to Proddatur. The master weaver secures orders either from the
suppliers or exporters. The buyers give orders to traders. These traders in turn order to
suppliers also called master weavers. These master weavers get the fabric woven from
the weavers working for him. All the risk of investment is by the master weaver. And
if he is able to export successfully, he makes a large profit. Some of the weavers with
good education have turned into brokers or intermediaries, making their own share in
this supply chain.
Swatches of samples are maintained with a good number of latest designs,
colour palette. These swatches books are shown to the exporter through traders. Once
the order is received, the master weavers get activated. Only 5-6% variation was
accepted in the colors. Fabric faults, colour variations and weaving defects are strictly
rejected. There was 5-10% chance of rejection. Rejected goods are sold for 60-70%
rate in the local market. For the actual price of Rs.200/- per meter, only Rs.120/- per
meter is priced in the local market. The losses have to be born by the master weaver.
Quality control measures are followed strictly. This is the only place where the
researcher observed the fabric inspection machine for inspecting the fabric faults.
Master Weavers employed appraisers who check the weavers’ work. Before
starting the bulk production, the samples are sent to SGS India Ltd.-Textile testing
laboratory of Bangalore, New Delhi. The samples are tested for their colour fastness
to light. MBTL method is used at consumer products laboratory services, SGS House,
Chennai. If the colourfastness rating is 4-5 it is accepted by the buyers and if it is 2-3
then the consignment is rejected. And it is important to note that all this process is
77
time bound. The master weaver invests Rs.75, 000/- per loom per three (3) months.
No retail orders are accepted.
PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –IV : MADHAVARAM HANDLOOM
WEAVERS’ CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETY, KADAPA DISTRICT
Introduction: There are more than eight nearby villages who get work from
Madhavaram handloom weavers’ co-operative society. The weavers in surrounding
villages visit the society once or twice in a month, take the orders, raw materials for
production and get back with woven goods
Production: The pitlooms are seen inside the houses of every weaver. The
dyed yarns are supplied to the weavers for subsidized prices from society. Also,
design inputs are given to them. Highly skilled weavers are seen in Madhavaram,
which is evident from the intricate designs, fineness in the weaving and folding of the
sarees.
Products: cotton sarees of fine count 100s, 120s with real or tested zari
borders and pallav woven with jacquard designs
was observed that the master weavers were also weavers but, they took the risk of
investing more money, employed coolie weavers working for them on daily wages
and started production of Gadwal sarees which have high demand in the market. The
work shed is found inside the house of the master weaver where 3 to 6 weavers were
weaving the sarees. The looms are three shuttle pit looms and jacquard looms which
are used to weave innovative designs locally called as “computer borders”. The cotton
yarns in the body of the Gadwal Saree is replaced by ‘Sico’ i.e. Synthetic Yarn and
Tussar Silk with intricate necklace designs in the body of the saree called Kalanjali
designs. Modern colour combinations, both light colours (called English colours
locally) dark traditional colours, mixtures of colour, i.e. warp and weft in different
colours giving a shaded effect were found.
PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –VI :KOTHAKOTA HANDLOOM
WEAVERS CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETY, KOTHAKOTA,
MAHABOOBNAGAR DISTRICT
when compared to the business of master weavers in the market. The jacquard
attachments were given to the weavers by the master weaver and bind them to work
for him on wage basis. He supplies the raw material, paper designs, and punched
lattice to the weavers. Weavers have to complete the products within specified time
period.
PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –VII : RAJOLI HANDLOOM
WEAVERS CO-OPERATIVE PRODUCTION AND SALES SOCIETY
LTD.RAJOLI, MAHABOOBNAGAR DISTRICT
Introduction: Rajoli Handloom weavers’ co-operative society was
established in the year 1952 A.D. having 35 weaver members, 23 staff members and 5
sales persons in the showroom. The total turnover is Rs.1.10 Crores making Rs.6-7
lakhs profit per annum.
Raw material: The cotton yarn, tussah silk yarns, zari, dyes and chemicals are
supplied to the weaver through the society from NHDC at subsidized prices.
Production: The weavers who are skilled in weaving Gadwal type sarees
have to work throughout the year either from the society or from the master wavers.
This weaving technique requires a pitloom with a jacquard attachment to develop
various intricate designs with zari threads mostly used in the borders and pallav. The
speciality of this weaving is that there are three(3) shuttles carrying three (3) weft
yarns, one interlacing the upper border, one the body and the third the lower border of
the saree. The intricate weavers of Gadwal are so popular that they are the fond
possessions of every women in Andhra Pradesh. The weavers of surrounding villages
have the frame loom who weaves the cotton towels, hand kerchiefs, Dhotis and
Lungis.
Products: Gadwal type sarees, Dhotis, Lungis, Towels and Hand Kerchiefs.
Marketing: They have both wholesale and retail through their own retail
outlet. And also sell through APCO and Handloom House.
PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –VIII : DHARMAVARAM,
ANATAPUR DISTRICT
Introduction: The cooperative societies were dormant though the market is
lucrative. The most popular, traditional weaving center, Dharmavaram with all the
functional activities is fully dominated by master weavers.
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Products: Cotton sarees (100s and 120s) with traditional pure zari border and
buta, sico sarees with zari border, cotton sarees with pure silk and zari border, shirting
material yardages, dress material yardages, Kalamkari printed on Mangalagiri
materials, dress sets, Kalamkari Dupattas, furnishing yardages, quilts, scarves, indigo
dyed fabrics, ready made shirts from Mangalagiri cotton fabrics. They are available in
solid and shaded colours.
Marketing: they have both wholesale and retail business. The mangalagiri
fabrics have got very high demand in the local, urban and international market.
Hence, there are more than 300 master weavers, each one owning at least 100-400
looms. A number of worksheds with 5-6 looms in each can be seen in mangalagiri. It
is a flourishing business having exports to Japan, Paris, Export orders for shirting
yardages are also received from Chennai and Mumbai. Thus the weavers are not
inclined to work for the cooperative society. They prefer working for the master
weavers as they get continuous work, high wages and personal loans whenever there
was any need without many formalities.
PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –X : THE YEMMIGANUR WEAVERS
COOPERATIVE PRODUCTION AND SALE SOCIETY LIMITED,
YEMMIGANUR, KURNOOL DISTRICT
Introduction: The Society started in the year 1936 A.D.under the leadership
of Late Padmashri Machani Somappa with 20 members, 20 looms and paid up Share
Capital of Rs.170/-. By virtue of the loyalty and cooperation of the members and
sincere and self-less work of the management. The membership increased 2320, with
1190 looms and a paid up Share Capital of Rs.40.00 lakhs during 2003-2004. At
present about 6000 members are depending directly and indirectly by the society.
During the year 1951 A.D. under the leadership of Late Padmashri Machani
Somappa, Weavers Colony has established with 152 houses in a auspicious of 11
cents site costing Rs.6400/-. The cost of the house is realized from members out of
their conversion charges which helped the members to acquire a decent house of their
own.
In Gudikal village the society purchased 1.52 acres at a cost of Rs. 2.50 Lakhs
and distributed the same to 42 members and houses were constructing under A.P.
Housing Scheme. The A.P. Government has also sanctioned 240 Housing-cum-
worksheds to our society members.
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Raw materials: The Government of A.P. imposed 9.25% Excise Duty on the yarn
purchases and since 3 years the yarn rates have been increased from 35% 40% on the
normal rates. Where as the societies purchasing yarn through National Handloom
Development Corporation., will get 9.25% discount by way of exemption of excise
duty. Where as National Handloom Development Corporation accepts orders against
full payment in advance. With these difficulties the society was still able to supply the
yarn to only to few weavers.
Production: The society has produced an average production of Rs. 360.00
Lakhs, of handloom goods and average sales during same period reached to Rs.
450.00 Lakhs approximately. The society is having dyeing unit, hank mercerizing
plant, printing section and designing sections along with main goods godown, and 7
production centers like Yemmiganur, Gudikal, Nandavaram, Nagaladinne,
Gonegandla, Kosigi, Gudur. The technical appraisors are functioning effectively
resulting in production of high quality goods.
The Society was taking up welfare measures to the weaver members such as
a) Production Bonus b) Medical Aid @Rs. 400/- per annum, c) Free books to the
children of members upto Degree level d) Funeral expenses @. Rs. 2000/- is being
paid to the deceased members. Further the society is being paid higher conversion
charges to member when compared with other co- operative societies in the state.
The society was catering various training programmes to weavers in latest
techniques sponsored by District Rural Development Agency and Deen Dayal
Hathkarika Protsahan Yojana schemes to improve their weaving techniques.
In the year of 94-95 the A.P. Government has awarded a cash prize of Rs. 3.00 Lakhs
and Government of India has also awarded a Gold plate for the excellence services
rendered in by the society in Handloom sector.
Products: The society was producing high qualities handloom clothes like
Dhoties, Bed sheets, Mosquito Nets, Shirting, Towels, Lungies, Guaze Bandage
Cloth, Pure Silk Sarees and other allied handloom products. Cotton Bed Sheets,
Blankets, Towels, Lungies, Dhotis and Hand Kerchiefs being the most popular.
Marketing: The society had purchased sales depots at various places. The society
was having 48 depots Sales spreading over I Andhra Pradesh and Karnataka States
upto 2003.
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Short fall of working capital, procurement of Raw materials had become difficult
in view of short fall in funds. The society was unable to provide full time work to
members. The depots are out of stock. All these factors leaded to drop in production,
sales and resulted in loss for the first time in 2001-2002, the same trend is continuing
during 2002-2003 also. If the Government can fulfill certain financial needs put forth
by the society then they can uplift the member’s financial status since they are solely
dependent on the society by producing handloom goods for the yarn supplied by the
society.
PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –XI : SRI CHAMUNDESHWARI
HANDLOOM WEAVERS CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETY, MANULALAPETA,
VENKATAGIRI, NELLORE DISTRICT
Raw materials: the fine count cotton yarn of 100s, 120s was purchased from
NHDC and sometimes when the demand is more also purchased from private yarn
traders of Hindupur. Tested zari from Surat.
Production: The weaver’s of the society were trained in designs and in dyeing
processes with colourfast dyes at weavers’ service center. The society had its own
dyeing unit and yarns are dyed to match the design. These dyed yarns were sized
before supplying to the weavers. This way the uniformity of colour in the production
is maintained and bulk orders are taken up for production.
Products: Dress materials with zari borders, fine cotton saress with zari
borders, salwar kameez sets, dhotis and shirting material.
Marketing: Both wholesale and retail business through cooperative sales
outlet and through APCO sales depots. There was high demand for these sarees both
in the local and in other states due to the comfort and dignity of draping these sarees.
Also a number of independent weavers are found both Padmasali and other caste can
be seen in weaving profession.
PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –XII : VENKATESHWARA
HANDLOOM WEAVERS CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETY, EPURUPALEM,
CHIRALA, PRAKASAM DISTRICT
Introduction: This society was formed in the year 1988 A.D. to replace the
Duggirala Gopala Krishnaiah co-operative society. There were 120 weavers working
for the society. The society provides work to all the weaver members. The house-
cum-workshed scheme was implemented through the former society. Under this 100
houses were constructed with place for loom inside the house. Thus, hundred weaver
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members got benefited in this scheme. There has been large scale migration of
weavers into Chirala area due to the export market demand. This has led to the
emergence of worksheds in this area.
Most of the weavers were highly skilled and adopted the jacquard weaving
and converted their looms to jacquard looms. Each household has one pit loom with
jacquard attachment.
Raw Materials: National Handloom Development Corporation (NHDC) the
yarns and dyes are supplied to the weavers through the society. Tested zari from Surat
is used for the borders. Natural dyes and chemicals were used by some of the weavers
who received training under various Government projects. Some of the weavers
working under master weavers, designers and NGOs also adopted to natural dyeing
and new designs.
Production: The access to export markets that Chirala traditionally had gives
it a unique position in Andhra Pradesh Handloom industry. They were once producing
Telia Rumals, Real Madras Hand Kerchiefs (RMHK) for export. When the demand
for these decreased, the entire production changed to weaving jacquard sarees, as well
as dress materials. Today, Chirala is famous for its fine cotton products and natural
dyes being used having the concept of eco-friendly fabrics.
Products: Sarees of 100s, 80s with jacquard designs, Dress materials, Dhotis,
Lungis, RMHK, Shirting Material Yardages.
Marketing: The primary target being the domestic, urban market and
exports. They have wholesale and retail through APCO and own retail outlets located
at various district of Andhra Pradesh.
The organizational structure corresponding to this production has been one
where a large chunk of weavers work under the master weaver, though there have
been a noticeable number of independent weavers too, who own looms and weaver at
home but, market their products to master weavers. The proliferation of master
weavers into Chirala area is another noteworthy phenomenon.
PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –XIII : SAIBABA HANDLOOM
WEAVERS’ CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETY, PONDUR, SRIKAKULUM
DISTRICT
Introduction: The Saibaba Handloom Weavers’ Co-Operative Society,
started it production in the year 1942 A.D. with 1000 weavers as members before
independence. Now a registered society with a handful of only 50 active weavers
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yarns with satin, herringbone designs. The products of Narayanpet were identified as
exportable products by HEPC, and some of the weavers were trained to weave certain
products like furnishings, drapery for export purpose.
Products: Narayanpet cotton sarees with silk/rayon threads in the border look
like that of ilkal sarees of Maharastra.
Marketing: Narayanapet sarees have both wholesale and retail market. They
sell through their own sales outlets as well as through APCO. The best quality
products were send to Maharastra, Gujarat, New Delhi and Kolkata. Distribution was
based on the demand and prior order placed.
The market was dominated by the master weavers in this area. There were
many master weavers providing employment to more than 200 weavers for
production
PLATE
INDIGE
4.3.. DASTKAR ANDHRA-NON GOVERNMENT ORGANISATION
Introduction: Dastkar Andhra began in 1988 A.D. as an offshoot of Dastkar,
Delhi. It was a non-profit trust, registered in 1995 A.D. that works within Andhra
Pradesh to promote the interests of the producer communities within the cotton
handloom weaving industry. The objective of Dastkar Andhra has been “to explore
practically, the possibilities of craft production as a contemporary economic activity
based on traditional skills and resources, and to develop forms of organization that
would ensure wide dispersal of economic returns among the producers”.
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with natural dyeing, household linen-table cloth, Napkin, Bed sheets, Eluru carpets,
readymades stitched by order, Khadi yarn, Kondapalli toys and Ettikopaka toys.
Marketing: Retailing was started in the year 1997 A.D. opening a retailoutlet
by one of the member at her house naming it as ‘Gautami’. She approached Mahila
mandals for exhibitions and awareness campaigns about the living conditions of
weavers. Also counseling was given to people to get involved in marketing. With a
small deposit of money, stock was given to sell at houses and unsold stock has to be
returned with in a month.
One marketing person works to get orders from other states with the help of
field workers from Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai and Kolkata. The seven retail branches of
Fab India orders of not less than 20,000 meters per annum.
Marketing Strategies followed were, word of month marketing,Participation in
Nature Bazaar exhibition, New Delhi. Export to Dalailama Charitable Trust, Indigo
dyed products to Japan, export to Richard Jones of Netherlands.
Their opinion was that, weaving defects and patches in dyeing are very
common and consumers are counseled or made aware of it while selling their
products.
4.4. CASE STUDIES OF KHADI AND HANDLOOM WEAVERS
During 1995 A.D., when the market for handlooms suffered, he migrated to
Hyderabad for livelihood. Being educated upto intermediate (10+2), he learned
electric work in Musheerabad videocon service centre. Having conceived the idea of
“Aasu machine” he worked hard for four years and spent money to develop the
machine. The “Aasu machine” he invented is an essential requirement for all those
working with loom and especially useful for ikkat weaving. It requires 9000 rounds of
weft yarn to be wound on Aasu machine hand operated. So, the Mallesh’s Aasu
machine has a capacity of 600-9800 rounds per hour with counter attachment to
regulate. It is fully automatic machine and stops on its own according to the settings
and has the advantage of no yarn breakage. Even if yarn breakage occurs, the machine
stops immediately.
Department of sericulture, Bangalore had recognized “Aasu machine” through
silk board, Hyderabad. They had given financial support to establish a workshop at
his house. One of Rs.3, 30,000/- and one of Rs.1, 80,000/- had being given for
purchasing the machinery. 30%of the total loan is to be paid back. Sericulture
department of Thailand had approached him through Bangalore office and they
recognized “aasu machine” and had taken demonstration of its operation.
Till date he had prepared fifty Aasu machines and installed them at places like
Chanduru, Puttapaka, Nalgonda, Chowtuppal etc. 6 Aasu machines are working at
silk nagar itself. Each “Aasu machine” costs Rs. 50,000 and it can serve the weft
requirement for ten (10) looms.
Mallesh want to improve it by his own education or through help. He is
putting efforts for the reduction of cost. He thinks that market is the main drawback
for the handloom products. Hence, there is no standard regular income for the weaver
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which causes all the other problems. He feels they should get good amount of money
in off season also.
Swamy G. was thirty eighty years old, independent weaver from past 20 years.
He was living in Chowtuppal with his wife and daughter. He belongs to Padmasali
community. He was working for wages (job work) due to the debt he took for his
daughter’s marriage from Satyanarayana master weaver.
He was weaving eight sarees in one month with the help of his wife and
daughter. He is paid Rs. 2000/- as wage by the master weaver. He studied upto 4th
class and learned weaving with interest. He migrated to silk nagar from Mantapur in
1993 and is member of co-operative society. Independently, he was earning Rs..
2500/- per month with his single loom
PLATE
He invested Rs. 2,500/-per loom of which Rs. 1,500/- per simple loom and Rs.
1,000/- per jacquard attachment. While he was independently weaving, he procured
the raw materials from Jangaom and Pochampally. It took 1 kg of warp and 32 kgs of
weft to weave 8 sarees and costed Rs. 1,500/- per Kilogram of Silk Yarn. Colour costs
Rs. 200/- for 2-8 colours and he used maximum 3-4 colours per saree. Zari cost Rs.
250/- per packet where as only ½ packet per saree is required. The colours used are
colorfast to washing and light.
He preferred private market than selling to society due to high profit. He feels
dissatisfied in market due to lack of market for handloom products.
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lost his eye sight due to some green solution poured into his eye by some local
medical practitioner.
Due to illness and old age he was doing job work for master weaver of
Jangaom. He was weaving only single ikkat sarees in cotton. He earns Rs.500/- per
saree. One saree took one week to weave completely. His son was providing shelter to
him in a kaccha house with two looms placed inside. At this stage of life he wants to
retire from weaving and requests for provision of old age pension as he was unable to
work. His input per day was only 2 meters.
Punjala Venkatesh of Kothkota was thirty nine years old and studied 10th class.
He was married with 4 children living in a joint family. He belongs to Padmasali
community and weaving was their family occupation. He acquired the skills since his
childhood. He was member of Kothakota Handloom weavers’ co-operative society.
But, due to lack of work from the society, he was working under a master weaver. He
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PLATE 6:
LOOM IN
His expertise in weaving traditional sico sarees on jacquard loom. He works
more than 10 hours to eke-out his livelihood. His wife has to help in weaving activity
based on the design requirement. Hence the earnings Rs.800-1000/- per month are the
payments given to two persons. He was aware of some of the Government schemes.
Hence, he got benefited in the house-workshed scheme of Government 8 years back.
He was of the opinion that “working capital is the main problem in the
weaving profession”. If they got the credit, they end up paying the high rate of interest
if the goods are not sold in time. Hence, he prefered to work on wage basis under
master weaver to avoid the risk. He states that, if I can get atleast one customer from
city who can pay minimum cost for my sarees, I’ll be able to feed my children. He
refuses to involve his children in weaving profession.
independently. He inherited weaving from his forefathers and also leaned the art of
dyeing. All the preparatory works involved before weaving are done at home with the
help of family members. His mother is a spinner and wife helps in the weaving of
PLATE 7
saree.
He was highly skilled and weaving skills can be seen from the sarees he has
woven. He has a jacquard loom at his residence and weaves sico (silk/cotton) and
tussar Gadwal sarees. He works for more than 12 hours per day and weaves 3 sarees
in a month. He sells them to master weavers or local retail shops with a marginal
profit.
PLA
He had a loom located inside the house. He learned weaving Dharmavaram
variety saree woven with buta designs. He weaves 8 silk sarees of 6.20 meters with
blouse per month. It takes 24 days per month two days loom is idle for piecing. The
setting of lattice, degumming, dyeing warp, strtching the warp, dyeing the weft,
winding weft, zari winding on charkha are the preparatory processes involved in the
process which are performed with the help of his wife and children.
It involved Rs. 17,000/- to 20,000/- for the warp of 8 sarees and Rs.3000/ to
change the punch cards for every design. Four varieties of sarees are woven in one
colour. Rs.150-160/ are paid for piecing. He earns Rs. 11,000/- per month. He has
expertise in changing 3-4 types of designs every year. He is of the pinion that this
variety of silk sarees cannot be woven in powerlooms. Hence, there is no competition.
He doesn’t want to train his next generation in weaving.
CASE STUDY-IX
Alivelu was fourty eight years old and was living with her husband and two
children in a kaccha house in NagarKurnool, Mahaboobnagar district.. Spinning
charkha was her way of life from her 8 years of age. She was a member of Khadi
institution.
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PLATE 1
She winds cotton yarn onto spools which were placed inside the shuttle that
carry the weft yarn while weaving. She winds 10-12 spools per day. Her wages are
Rs.3/- to 5/- per day amounting to Rs. 1800/- per month. She works more than 12
hours per day apart from household work at the same time taking care of children.
Her goal was to have an own house. Her ambition is to educate her children so
that they get well paid jobs in big offices.
CASE STUDY-X
Ramaiah was thirty six years old living in Srikakulum. He lives in a nuclear
family with his wife and three children. His children are studying in primary school.
He studied up to sventh class. He has two pit looms inside his house. One is idle since
his father’s death. Weaving was his family occupation and from his childhood it has
been the day to day activity. It is a well known job for him and he acquired the skills
from his elders. He works 20-22 days a month and the other days are spent in
preparatory processes. He spends 10-12 hours per day in weaving activity.
His expertise was in weaving traditional cotton dhotis with coloured or zari
borders. He was a member of cooperative society but, he works for a mater weaver.
He says no more I’m weaving the traditional motifs as plain and checks designs are
ordered by the master weaver. He was of the opinion that, working under master
weaver was compulsory since no help is extended from any cooperatives or from
Government to invest on our work.
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PLATE 1
He feels that he can weaver a better quality fabric and design provided he can
get raw materials. He has no purchasing capacity to buy the raw materials. Raw
materials are given by the master weaver and Ramaiah has to get back with the
finished products with in a time period specified by the master weaver.
Ramaiah had no idea about where his products were sold and for how much.
He expressed that “if I change the profession and place, so many fluctuations and
disturbances can arise. So, I would prefer to continue here”.
CASE STUDY-XI
Pushpalatha S. was thirty seven years old living in Madhavaram. She was a
widow living with her two sons who are studying in Poly technique and intermediate.
She is independent weaver belonging to Padmasali community. She was helping her
husband in the preparatory processes but took over weaving after his death.
PLA
She has a pit loom with dobby attachment to weave the border of the saree and
“Dhadi” attachment for weaving the pallav designs. She weaves fine cotton sarees of
100
100s with one side zari border and pallav decorated with zari. Dyed yarn for weaving
six (6) sarees is give by the master weaver. Warp sizing is done by her to make it stiff
and strong. Designs are specified by the master weaver.
For weaving six sarees of 5.5. meters length without matching blouse, 3 ½
bundles of warp (Padhu), 2 ½ bundles of weft (Padugu) and one (1) mark zari or 4
bundles are tested zari are used. She changes the border design as per the market
demand. Sometimes she weaves polyester cotton saress or silk shirting yardages as
per the order received by the master weaver. She works for 30 days per month and 12-
14 hours per day. She gets paid Rs. 100/- per saree and she manages to weave 25-30
sarees per month earning nearly Rs. 3000/- per month.
These products were in demand in local market especially lower class, middle
class and agricultural labourers wear these sarees. Each saree costs Rs.250/- and
Rs.350/- for mercerized cotton in the retail market.She finds the difficulty when there
is health problem. As there is no facility for continuous work, she is planning to open
a grocery shop at her residence itself.
CASE STUDY-XII
Kunkumalla Ranga Rao was fifty four year old weaver belonging to Padmasali
community living in Illavaram. He lives in his own house with his wife, mother and
three children. He was educating his children. He was a member of The Guntur Zilla
Khaid Gramodhyog Samithi, Guntur.
PLA
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He weaves the polyvastra fabric for the The Guntur Zilla Khaid Gramodhyog
Samithi, Guntur. The polyester cotton hand spun yarn was supplied through the
society. He manages to weave 2 ½ to 3 meters of fabric per day. He worked at least
10-12 hours per day and almost 30 days a month unless he had to attend something
urgent.
His wages are fixed as per the cost sheet of the KVIC. He had received the
artisan welfare fund from the trust of The Guntur Zilla Khaid Gramodhyog Samithi as
his son passed 10th class in first division. He was educating him further and doesn’t
want to involve his children in weaving profession.
CASE STUDY-XIII
Markandeyulu Sherla was forty three years old living in a joint family in
Wavilal. He belong to Kurnisali community. He lives with his wife and one son. His
son was studying in primary school. He was member of Metpally Khadi Gramodhyog
Pratisthan.
He learned weaving form his father and now he expertises in weaving cotton
Khadi shirting cloth with self checks. He was living in a semi pacca house. He has
one pit loom located inside his house. The fabric is woven with 42-44” width. He can
weave 2-2 1/2 meters per day if he works for 10-12 hours per day. He works for 6
days in a week. Sunday and festival days are considered as holidays.
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He feels that weaving involves a lot of hardship and paid less. He wants to
work as weaver as he doesn’t know any other work. Wages are received regularly
from the Khadi institution and he earns Rs.2500/- to Rs.3000/- per month. Once in a
year the unsold defective pieces are given to the weavers and spinner from institution.
This fulfills the clothing consumption of his family to some extent. He request for
increase in wages in order to have a better livelihood.
CASE STUDY-XIV
Yadagiri was forty seven years old Padmasali weaver living in Narayanapet in
a semi pacca house. He was a weaver working for master weaver. He is living in a
nuclear family with his wife and two children. Weaving is hereditary for their family.
Even his four brothers were also in the same profession. He had one pitloom at his
house.
He took Rs 2000/- from the master weaver for buying tools necessary to
improve his loom. Hence, he was bound to work for him as gratitude. He works from
7.30 am to 6.00 pm in order to weave 8 sarees per month. He adopted new designs
which have better market demand.
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PLATE
He was of the opinion that ‘the traditional products what my father was
weaving are not in demand today’. I weave as per the order given by the master. The
new designs were like Maharastra sarees. The raw materials, designs, colour
specifications are given by the master weaver. His future ambition was to have at least
another loom and employ a coolie weaver in order earn more livelihood.