Internship at Alok Industries Vapi

1.
OBJECTIVES OF TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
The objective of the textile internship includes the coverage of the following given
departments:-
 Spun yarn production
 Grey fabric production (both woven and knits)
 Dyeing process
 Printing process
 Quality control and testing (testing procedures, quality parameters and various
defects and their control)
Textile Internship at Alok Industries, Vapi, Gujarat Page 1

Alok industries Company profile
2.1 INTRODUCTION
Alok industries Ltd is one of India’s largest Vertically Integrated Textile Company. It is
head quartered in Mumbai with its manufacturing units in Vapi,Silvassa & Navi
Mumbai. The company is an end to end provider of Integrated textile solutions with
five core divisions :- Cotton yarn, Apparel fabrics, Home textiles ,Garment and
Polyestor yarns.
FIG:- ALOK INDUSTRIES PRODUCT WHEEL

2.2 HISTORY & EVOLUTION
Alok industries was established in 1986 as a

private limited company, with it’s first polyester
text rising plant being set up in 1989. It became
a public limited company in 1993.
Over the years, it has expanded into weaving,
knitting, processing, home textiles and garments
and to ensure quality and cost efficiencies they
have integrated backward into cotton spinning and manufacturing partially oriented
yarn through the continuous polymerization route. It also provides embroidered
products through Grabal Alok Impex Ltd., their associate company which is the main
reason for their evolution into a diversified manufacturer of world-class home textiles,
garments, apparel fabrics and polyester yarns, selling directly to manufacturers,
exporters, importers, retailers and to some of the world’s top brands. Alok has
recently entered the domestic retail segment through a wholly owned subsidiary,
Alok Retail India Limited, with a chain of stores named ‘H&A’ that offer garments
and home textiles at attractive price points.
2.3 VISION OF THE ORGANIZATION
“To be the world's best- integrated textile solutions enterprise with leadership position
across products and markets, exceeding customer & stakeholder expectation”.
2.4 MISSION OF THE ORGANIZATION

The company aims at achieving the following objectives:
⊕ Offer innovative, customized and value added services to customers.
⊕ Actively explore potential markets & products.
⊕ Optimize use of all resources
⊕ Maximize people development initiatives
⊕ Become a process driven organization
⊕ Be a knowledge leader and an innovator in the businesses
⊕ Exceed compliances and global quality standards
⊕ Be an ethical, transparent and responsible global organization
2.5 REMARKABLE MILESTONES

YEAR MILESTONE
1986 Incorporation of the Company
1993 Becomes a public limited company with a Rs. 4.5 crore IPO
2003 Export Trading House status granted
2006 Texprocil silver trophy awarded for second highest export in manufacturer
exporter – made ups category
2007  ISO 9001:2000 certification obtained
 Gold Trophy for best export performance to ‘Focus LAC’ countries
awarded by Synthetic & Rayon Textile Export Promotion Council
Awarded Silver trophy for highest fabric exports and Bronze trophy for
highest made ups export
2008 Awards from TEXPROCIL for 2007-2008
 Gold Trophy for highest exports of bleached/yarn dyed/ printed

fabrics.
 Silver Trophy for highest export of made ups
 Bronze Trophy for highest global exports

4. PROCESS FLOWS
4.1 PROCESS FLOW AT NARROW WIDTH PLANT(WOVEN, KNITS , YARN)
Buyer’s requirement: - Requirements and specifications required are sent
Prod. Development and Lab dip: - development of swatches of the shade sent by the buyer
samples are developed as per spec. and sent for buyer’s approval.
Buyer comments- The buyer approval or comments for some changes. If some changes are
asked for then the samples are re-developed and sent again
Pre-Production sampling: - The Product development department develops nearly 100 –200
pieces in the approved shade. Out of these adequate pieces are sent to the buyer.
Buyer’s approval: - The buyer’s approval of the piece which meets his standards and this
sample serves as the standard towel for reference between the buyer and the manufacturer.
Purchase order: - The buyer sends the bulk order in the form of purchase order.
Sales order: - The sales order is prepared and given to the PPC department of the plant
through the plant merchandiser
Production Planning: - As per the sales order the PPC makes the production plan along with
the material requirement plan.

Material procurement:- A purchase order is generated for the required dye ,chemicals and
other required raw materials to the suppliers
Processing order:- Production order is given to the preparatory and dyeing departments.
Processing: - Processing and finishing takes place as per the processing plan.
Folding and inspection:- inspection takes place of the processed good which then packaged
Final Q.A: The final Q.A takes places before packaging and dispatch to assure quality of goods
Shipment :- The goods are dispatched.

4.2 PROCESS FLOW AT TERRY TOWELS PROCESSING PLANT
Buyer’s requirement: - At first the buyer sends his requirement for towel according to feel, look
and absorbency. He also specifies the towel design and dimensions.
Prod. Development and Lab dip: - development of swatches of the shade sent by the buyer
samples are developed as per spec. and sent for buyer’s approval.
Buyer comments- The buyer approval or comments for some changes. If some changes are
asked for then the samples are re-developed and sent again
Pre-Production sampling: - The Product development department develops nearly 100 –200
pieces in the approved shade. Out of these adequate pieces are sent to the buyer.
Buyer’s approval: - The buyer’s approval of the piece which meets his standards and this
sample serves as the standard towel for reference between the buyer and the manufacturer.
Purchase order: - The buyer sends the bulk order in the form of purchase order.
Sales order: - The sales order is prepared and given to the PPC department of the plant
through the plant merchandiser
Production Planning: - As per the sales order the PPC makes the production plan along with
the material requirement plan.
Material procurement:- A purchase order is generated for the required dye ,chemicals and
other required raw materials to the suppliers

Processing order:- Production order is given to the preparatory and weaving departments.
Processing: - Weaving and finishing takes place as per the processing plan.
Cut & Sew and Packaging:- Stitching and packaging takes plan as per the cut & sew plan.
Folding and inspection:- inspection takes place of the processed good which then packaged
Final Q.A: The final Q.A takes places before packaging and dispatch to assure quality of goods
Shipment :- The goods are dispatched.

PART II
Weaving (Terry
weaving)

1. WEAVING (TERRY WEAVING)
1.1 Introduction
The weaving department forms the core of fabric production in a textile industry. In
this department our study concerns about the weaving of terry towels i.e. uncut pile
weaving. The weaving department has following sub departments in it:
• Textile design department
• Weaving preparatory department
• Weaving department
• Grey folding department

1.2 PROCESS FLOW FOR TERRY WEAVING
YARN
DYED YARN GREY YARN
SECTIONAL DIRECT WARPING

WARPING
WAXING/SIZING SIZING
WEAVING
GREY
PROCESSSING
MADE UPS

1.3 TEXTILE / WEAVING DESIGN DEPARTMENT
The objective of this department is to prepare a pattern for the weaving process to
achieve the desired effect and look on the fabric as per the buyer‟s specification. The
department receives the specifications from the marketing dept after which sampling
is done and samples are sent for approval, approved designs then go further for
production.
The department performs the following works:-
1. Designing of the product
2. Analysis & feasibility of product
3. Preparation of bill of materials required for preparing the product
The various Qualities or types of towels developed are:-

• Piece dyed towels(grey towels)
• Yarn dyed towels
• Yarn dyed and grey velour towels(cut pile)
• Yarn dyed and grey partial velour towels(partial cut pile)
Cad software’s used for weave design developments are:-

• Textronics design dobby for development of dobby designs
• Net graphics texcelle for developing jacquard designs

1.4 LAYOUT OF THE TOWEL
The basic structure of towel is divided into these main parts:

1. Plain: - A tightly woven strip mainly a twill /any compact weave.
2. Hem: - A Strip woven for the purpose of folding and stitching the hem
3. Terry bar: - A terry bar is a short width terry weave dividing the hem and the
border.
4. Border: - A strip woven for the purpose of providing aesthetic appeal and may be
woven as per buyer specification.
5. Body: - The body contains the main terry part that consists of pile loops all over.
6. Selvedge:- selvedge is the right and left borders of the towel which are generally
woven in leno weaves
PLAIN
HEM
TERRY BAR
BORDER
BODY
BORDER
TERRY BAR
HEM
PLAIN

1.5 WEAVING PREPARATORY DEPARTMENT
In the weaving preparatory mainly warping and sizing is done for the purpose
assistance in the the weaving process. The yarn requirements are determined as per
the design and then warping is done first
1.5.1 PROCESS FLOW OF WEAVING DEPARTMENT
WARPING PLAN DESIGNING
SIZING WARPING
TRANSPORT WEAVERS BEAM TO WEAVING DEPT
1.5.2 WARPING
There are 2 warping machines of which there is a direct warping machine from
benninger with a creel capacity of 640 creels and another sectional warping machine
from Prashant gamatex with a creel capacity of 680 creels.
Before warping plan is made following things have to be considered:
• Cone length
• Beam capacity
• Required length

1.5.2.1 DIRECT WARPING
The cones are placed on the creels and the ends are passed through two pre
stationary rods out of which one is stationary and one is movable. These rods are
responsible to give proper tension to the yarns. There is also an auto ply tension
unit with light indicator to control tension during running and stops the machine
The yarns are passed through a zig-zag yarn guide(dents) to the gear-controlled
cylindrical beam which continuously rotates and prepares the warping beam.
There is also a display at the front of the operator which indicates the breakage
cone row and column number.
Fig :-Benninger direct warping m/c
Presser roller which is in contact with the warp beam ensures uniformity in
formation of the warp beam and in cylindrical form. Singles yarns are preferred for
direct warping, as they are to be sized in the successive process.

Technical details of the machine
Beam capacity 1250 kg (60000 m)

Warping speed 20 to 1200 m/min
Beam length 2400 cm
Creel capacity 640
Yarn tension 610 dN
Max count range 13s- 16s
These warpers beam from the direct warping machines are converted to weavers
beam while sizing
1.5.2.2 SECTIONAL WARPING
Sectional warping is done in some versatile intricate and majorly yarn dyed pieces
where the consumption of different warp yarns is different depending on the design of
the towel. The drum roller intermittently winds the yarns from creels and the beam
automatically moves laterally to get a uniformly wound section beam as per the data
fed according to the required design. This section warper’s beam is then waxed by a
winding roller in a continuous manner which successively gets wound on to the
weaver’s beam. Double yarns are preferable to be sectional warped. The leasing and
section reeds are used to separate different coloured yarns and determine number
of yarns in a dent respectively. Sectionally warped beams do not require sizing hence
these are directly converted into weavers beam, then the warper’s beams are carried
by the trolleys to the sizing department
Features of sectional
Fig:- Prashant Gamatex
warping machine(manufacture Sectional
–Prashant Warping
Gamatex)
• Separate Warping & Beaming Structure.
• Optical device for precise Sectional width measurement & setting
• Optical device for precise Sectional width measurement & setting
• Constant beaming tension.
• Constant warping and beaming speed.
1.5.3 SIZING
The sizing process aims at providing extra strength to the warp yarns for withstanding
tension and abrasion during weaving. There are 2 sizing machines of Benniger and
west point. Sizes like Terry size are used which contain starch based or synthetic
like polyvinyl alcohol or a water soluble acrylic polymer, depending on the fiber
content of warp yarns.
1.5.3.1 Benninger sizing machine (Ben –sizetec)
Fig:- Benninger Sizing Machine
The sizing section of the weaving department has 2 sizing machines with 12 creels
for the warpers beam(zone1). The warped beams are put on the creels and all the
warp ends are passed through various cylinders without any inter-yarn entanglement
and messing up of yarns.They are passed into a bath of a water base sizing
solution.The bath has a temperature of 90oC which has two nip rollers and two dip
rollers which guide the yarn for proper sizing through proper bathing.The yarns have
a continuous movement through the solution as they travel through the drying
cylinders which have a temperature of 140 oC, 130 oC, 125 oC, and 110 oC in the
respective cylinders in the drying chambers (ZONE 2 AND 3). Leasing region is the
dry region from where the yarns get separated by dividing rods to avoid yarn grouping

which could create difficulties in weaving. Thus by the automatically monitored and
controlled system, the yarns are wound on the weaver’s beam. These weavers’
beams are transferred to the looms.
Technical details :-
Speed of sizing 90-100mts /min
Temperature in the bath 950c
Tension in input yarn 650 N
Tension in output yarn 1050N
No. of creels 12
No. of drying cylinders 12
Temperature 37 0 c
Relative humidity 68 %
Fig :- BEN-SIZETEC
1.5.3.2 WEST POINT SIZING MACHINE

The west point sizing machine has the
same operational process as that of
Benninger sizing machine. The machine is
used as an alternative to the Benninger
sizing machine.
Fig: - WARPERS BEAM CREEL
Technical specification
Beam ⊕ Maximum No.  30

Creel of Beams  800 mm/1000 mm/1250 mm
⊕ Section Beam
Flange
Diameter
Size ⊕ No. of Boxes

Box Sizing system  1
 Single dip - Single nip or Double
dip - Double nip
Dryer ⊕ No. of up to 24 drying Cylinders. Predryer
Cylinders in the multiples of 4 to 6, and final
Dryer having 4/6 or 8 cylinders

Beam
Winder ⊕ Working width  1800 mm to 4000 mm
⊕ Beam flange  up to 1250 mm
diameter
⊕ Max. Yarn  150 Meters per minute
Speed Both side motorised
⊕ Carriage
Tension  Auto Control
Fig:- SIZING BATH

1.6 WEAVING
PLANT LAYOUT WEAVING DEPT.
FUTURE EXPANSION
EXIT
JACQUARD M/C
JACQUARD M/C
JACQUARD M/C
DOBBY M/C
E
X DOBBY M/C
I
T
DOBBY M/C E
X
I
T
DOBBY M/C
DOBBY M/C
DOBBY M/C
FUTURE EXPANSION
Textile Internship at Alok Industries, Vapi, Gujarat
PIPE BEAM Page 23
TROLLEY-2
1.6.1 INTRODUCTION
After the sizing process of the pile and the ground beams, they are manually
transported to the weaving looms. All the looms present in the weaving department
are Toyota air jet looms. According to the production plan looms are allotted for
specific towel weaving. The beams of the pile & ground are gaited on to the loom as
specified in the loom plan and design plan. The design through floppy/ programmer is
set on the looms. The loom process control parameters for the functioning of the
beams are set, like the reed, the pick, the terry motion, let off, take up etc & weaving
starts.
Pile beam
Reed
Tension rod
Temple rod
Tension roller
Dobby shedding healds Fabric roller
Ground beam
Fig : TERRY WEAVE MECHANISM WITH DOBBY

1.6.2 WEAVING MACHINERY
1.6.2.1 TOYOTA AIR JET LOOMS
SThere are 36 dobby looms out of which 18 machines are of 20 shafts and other 18
are of 16 shafts..
Technical specifications of Toyota air jet looms
Working width available on the 340 cm

loom
Speed of the machine / Rpm of 450
machine
Type of fabric produced 100% cotton towels
Warp yarn counts usable on loom 2/20s
Weft yarns count usable on loom 12s,14s,16s,20s,2/20s
Weft insertion single electric drum, 2, 4, 6-color
exchange electric drum
Reed count in use 60 “ ,56”,64”
Gsm of fabrics possible for 400,500,450,600
production
Shedding: negative cam, positive cam, crank,
dobby, electric shedding, jacquard
Selvage type possible on loom Left/right rotary full-leno selvage
device.
There are 12 jacquard looms of which 6 are regular jacquard looms with jacquard
attachments ( stabouli LX1602 ) and other 6 are jumbo jacquards with jacquard
attachments (stabouli LX 3202). The LX 1602 and LX 3202 electronic Jacquard
machines are particularly suitable for weaving flat fabrics and terry cloth on all types
of air jet looms, 2688 hooks are present in LX 1602 attachments to while 8192
hooks are present in LX 3202.In regular jaquards the 3 hooks are controlled by a
single knife while in a jumbo jacquard for every hook there’s a knife..These jacquards
are easily adaptable and versatile in nature. These jacquards minimize threads
stress and Precise lifting mechanism with no vibration.

Fig:- AIR-JET LOOM WITH JAQUARD
Fig:- LX 1602 Jacquard
Fig:- LX 3202 Jacquard
1.6.3 WEAVING MECHANISM
Firstly the weavers beam is loaded into the loom. Then the yarns from the
weavers beam are knotted to yarn ends left after the previous weaving process.

Knotting process saves time required for drawing yarns one by one from heed
frame and reed. It usually takes 20 to 25 minutes to load a weavers beam and get
the loom started for repetition of old designs.
Drawing in
Here 16/20 heald dobby attachments are used for terry towel designing. The pile
threads are drawn on four healds, & the ground threads (if the loop formation is to
be continuous) on eight healds. 2 healds are used for leno and 2 are used for
selvedge.
Drop pin Mechanism (stop motion)
There are drop pins for every single yarn. Yarn is passed through the whole
provided in the drop pin. Each pin has a bar passing through it such that it does
not touch the pin when yarn is in tension If yarn breakage occurs in any yarn, the
pin drops and it touches the bar and a sensor is activated, which in turn stops the
machine. The yarn is spliced manually.
Shedding
Selected yarns are lifted according to different weave construction to create space
for insertion of weft yarn by different mechanisms which form a basis of
classification of loom.(jacquard/dobby).
Picking

Air jet mechanism is used for picking mechanism.In the formation of the pile loops,
the speed of the pile beam (let off) is more than the speed of the ground beam.During
weaving of the borders of the towel, let off is same for both the beams.
Beating up
The weft thread that has been inserted across the warp thread in a shed is pushed
upon the fell of the cloth. This process is carried out by a reed which is a comb like
structure through gaps of which warp yarns are passed. Two temples are provided at
both the ends. They pull the fabric produced and keep a pre determined tension in
warp yarns. They also assist in take up mechanism.
Let Off
There is a sensor at the torsion roller which regulates the tension of the warp sheet
and also send message to the sensor present in the let off roller so as to decide how
much warp is required to be let off.It allows the warp yarns to move in forward
direction by unwinding weavers beam maintaining a predetermined warp tension.
Take Up
A motor is provided which winds the fabric produced in the loom. Once the cloth roller
for winding of the towel is full the roll is doffed & sent to the Grey folding area.
1.6.4 ADDITIONAL ATTACHMENTS TO THE LOOM

Some other important attachment are as follows :
1. Creel Stand - They are used to yarn cheeses for weft insertion.
2. Package Sensor - This ensures no loose or miss

pick.
3. Pre Winder - It acts as temporary storage of yarn and

ensures uniform tension of yarn.
4. Weft Break Sensor - These are in contact with the

weft yarn and stop the machine in case of weft yarn
breakage.
Fig :- Weft creel
5. Auxiliary Nozzle - This nozzle has small openings for air jet inclined in forward
direction which give a forward motion to weft thread. Nozzle is not fixed and moves
with the motion of thread.
6. Main Nozzle - It is fixed nozzle and the working is similar to that of auxiliary nozzle.
7. Relay Nozzle - These inclined nozzles are provided on the path of the weft yarn.
They provide an air jet which provides a uniform.
motion to the weft yarn towards other end.
8. Feelers - There are 2 sensors provided on the right side of the loom. The function
of h1 feeler is to sense the miss pick or sort pick. Function of the filler is to sense the
broken pick or wrong pick. If any of these two sensors are activated, machine stops.
9. Cutter - Two cutters are provided at either ends which cut the extra weft yarns.

10. Tucker - It binds the remaining yarn into the selvedge.
11. Catch cord - It catches and holds the filling yarn.
1.6.5 TERRY WEAVE CONSTRUCTION
The Turkey towel structures form a class of warp pile-termed “terry” pile – in which
certain warp threads form loops or curls on the face of the cloth.

Only one kind of weft may be used, but 2 series of warp threads, placed on separate
beams, are necessary for the production of the cloth- viz. ground threads & pile
threads.
fig:- TERRY WEAVE
CONSTRUCTION
The distinguishing feature of this class of pile is that the looped structure is produced
by employing a special reed motion & warp easing arrangement which enables the
loops to be formed on the upper or lower, or both upper& lower surface of the
cloth,many different kinds of terry motions are used, but in every case the object is to
cause two succeeding picks of wefts to be left a short distance from the fell of the
cloth, & then to beat up these two picks along with the following pick.In weaving the
cloth the ground warp beam is heavily tensioned, so that these threads are held tight
all the time. The picks 1 & 2 are first woven into the proper sheds, but are not beaten
fully up to the fell of the cloth by the slay at the time of insertion in their sheds; but
when the pick no.3 is inserted, the parts are so operated that the three picks are
driven together into the cloth at fell. During the beating up of the third pick the pile
warp threads are either given in slack, or are placed under very slight tension. with
the result that the slack pile warp threads are drawn forward thus forming two
horizontal rows of loops of piles, one projecting from the upper & the other from the
lower surface of the cloth.

Fig:- Continuous Apparel width processing and yarn dyeing plants
PART III……
DYEING

1. WOVEN APPAREL WIDTH DYEING
(NARROW WIDTH PROCESSING)
FIG:- NARROW WIDTH PLANT
1.1 INTRODUCTION
Dyeing /processing is the most delicate section of the textile industry. Several
parameters are to kept in mind while performing operations. The processing unit in
the beginning receives greige fabric from the either the silvassa plant or other
external sources .this shipment of fabric is received by the greige department which
performs the initial actions before fabric is ready for further processing. Fabrics
processed here in all the machines are of an average width of 48 inches/160 cm.

1.2 PROCESS FLOW FOR WOVEN PROCESSING
GREY FABRIC
PRE-TREATMENT RANGE
IF COTTON IF NOT COTTON
DYEING
MERCERIZATION
FINISHING
PACKAGING AND
INSPECTION

1.3 GREY ROOM /GREIGE DEPT
The main operations of the grey room include opening up of fabric rolls and
combining them into A-frame batches for assisting continuous processing. These A-
frame batches are used for the purpose of combining many fabric rolls of small meter
age into one continuous roll of maximum capacity of 4500 kg. There are 5 greige
opening machines of local brand (Topiwalla).these machines process the fabric from
the rolls to A-frame at a speed of 150metres/minute.
1.3.1 PROCESS FLOW IN GREY ROOM
GREY ROLLS
GREY ROLL OPENING MACHINE
A- FRAME BATCH
CONTINOUS SINGEING AND DESIZING RANGE

1.3.2 GRIEGE FABRIC OPENING
The fabrics are sourced from the silvassa plant from where 95 % of the supply is
received and the other 5% is from external sources.
The product mix available and processed:-
 Fabrics by weight:-Light, medium, heavy
 Fabrics by blend:- PolyCotton, Cotton Viscose, CottonLycra, Cotton Spandex
 Fabrics By weave:- Twill,Plain,sateen,satin, dobby, design(Jacquard)
The fabrics are also avaible in grades of A, B, C, D which are already graded when
received. 2000 Steel Racks have been provided for storage for upto 29 lakh fabric
rolls. Fabric roll placement style for storage is of cross –layered type .Average length
of fabric on a A-frame batch is 4500 mts Fbric Rolls are opened and converted into
A-frame batches and sent for further processing of singeing and desizing.
1.3.3 SINGEING AND DESIZING
Fig:- Gas Flame Singeing is the process of surface hair.Singeing is

done via gas flames
which come in contact
with fibers and burn
them. The fabrics run in
the perpendicular
direction of the gas
flames for singeing.
Fig: Gas burner

Singeing and desizing are performed as a combined process in the grey department.
There are 3 machines on which these
operations are performed. All
machines are German (osthoff senge)
manufactured(models:-VP99-H (2 m/c)
&VP- 99(1 m/c).These machines have
Processing speeds in range of 60-120
mts/min.
Light fabrics :- 120 mts/min
Heavy fabrics- 60 mts/min
 Chemicals used in desizing:-
 Wetting agent :- assists increase in absorbency.
 Enzymes :- required for removal of sizes applied to fabrics.
 Chelating agents :- restricts the reaction of any metal ion with any added
chemicals.
These machines can process up to 30,000 mts /day
The machines have single gas flame chamber with 2 burners, 1 impregnating
chamber for desizing chemical application, a steam box for assisting chemical
activation for desizing ,3 extracta chambers for washing off the chemicals and
delivery customers( steam rollers ) for machine meant for yarn dyed if the fabric is
required in dry condition. The temperature for washing and steam box is 95 0. Two
methods for desizing :
• Hydrolytic desizing: - in this after the chemical application through
impregnation the batches are rotated at a uniform speed for 24 hrs
for desizing agents activation and avoid leaching out of chemicals
from the batch. To perform this type of desizing a single machine is
available which only singes and impregnates the desizing chemicals
• Enzymatic desizing: - In this the chemical activation is done by
rotation in a steam chamber with a required dwelling time required
for chemicals to activate. To perform this type of desizing 2
machines are available which have a steam box for this purpose.
Fig:-Singeing and Desizing (Hydrolytic) range

1.4.1 PRE-TREATMENT RANGE
There are 3 continuous pre-treatment ranges available which perform the above said
preparatory process in a continuously. Fabrics from greige department arrive here
and are fed into the machine. It is a composite machine range where the fabric is
desized, washed, bleached and dried before it is dyed.The entire process takes 25 –
30 minutes to complete. The process flow of the pre-treatment range is as follows:
Feeding
. Fabric from the A-frame trolleys is fed into scray where through the feed roller
whose speed can be controlled separately from the other rollers in the machine. The
Scray acts like a storage device for the fabric roll as it enters the extracta chamber.
This storage device temporarily holds the grey fabric such that rate of feeding the
fabric can be controlled as well as it gives time for the operator to stitch the upcoming
roll to the end of the present fabric without actually stopping the unit.
Washing
The fabric is passed through the 3 washing chambers each with the Benninger
Extracta technology. The main purpose of these washing chambers is to wash away
the extra chemicals from the surface of the fabric. These chambers have the capacity
of holding 180 litres of water respectively. The impure water is continuously flushed
out and is replaced by fresh water such that the level of 180 litres is maintained in the
chambers. The temperature maintained in the first chamber is 950 C and the following
two is maintained at a temperature 800 C each. The fabric takes a total of 3 minutes
to pass through these chambers spending 1 minute in each chamber. The fabric is
then passed to the bleaching chamber.
Bleaching
The fabric after passing through the washing chambers is passed on to the Injecta
chamber. Here, the bleaching chemicals like H2O2,Wetting
agent,Stabilizer,Reserver(chelating agents),NaoH are impacted on the cloth woth

high velocity. Sometimes even whitening agents are added to achieve extra
whitness.Here, the bleaching is done through the peroxide method. The fabric is
passed through this chamber and goes into the steam chamber which has the ben-
bleach technology for assisting the bleaching process, at a temperature maintained at
95o C and 3 bars pressure. The pH of the solution maintained is 13 – 14. The fabric
nearly stays nearly 15 minutes in this chamber before it is passed on the washing
chambers, the chemicals are fed automatically into the chamber from the storage
tank which is stationed beside the machines. Similarly, the water level is also
maintained. These chemicals are supplied to the storage tanks from the colour
kitchen
Washing
From the bleaching chamber the fabric is then passes through 3 washing chambers
which have Benninger Extracta technology.. The main purpose of the washing
chambers is to remove the extra chemicals that accumulate on the surface of the
fabric. The temperature maintained at the first washing is 95oC and the remaining two
maintained at 80o C each. The fabric spends approximately 2 minutes in each
washing chambers. After this the fabric is passed to the neutralizing chamber.
Neutralization
After passing through the washing chambers the fabric is passed on to the
neutralizing chamber which is similar to that of the washing chamber with the only
difference that this chamber is supplied with the neutralizing agent. The neutralizing
agent is used to neutralize the excess peroxide and caustic soda present on the
fabric surface which may hamper the dyeing process later. The fabric takes 2 minutes
to pass through this chamber where the temperature maintained is 60oc. After this the
fabric is passed onto the delivery customer.
Drying
The fabric is passed through a series of steam heated delivery customer rollers.
These rollers rotate at a speed of 50 rpm. The rollers are present in two sections of 5
each in each vertical column. They are arranged in such a way that alternatively
rollers rotates in clockwise direction and anti-clockwise direction and the fabric
alternatively passes through these rollers and dried before it finally wound onto a A-

frame roller. The fabric coming out of the pre-treatment range is termed as RFD
( Ready for Dyeing Fabric).
The Average production rate is estimated to be 80-100 mt-min. There are different
machines for light and medium weight fabrics, heavy weight fabrics and limp and
stretchable fabrics, machine suitable for limp fabrics has drums in its washers
instead of rollers for avoiding any type unnecessary expansion or width reduction.
Fig : PRE-TREATMENT RANGE

1.4.2 MERCERIZATION
Fig:- MERCERIZER RANGE
Mercerization is a preparatory process mainly used for cellulosic fibres when lustre is
important or light shades are to be dyed. Benninger mercerizer with equipped with the
Ben-dimensa technology is used for the mercerization process. There are three
mercerizers out of which 2 machines are based on the chain principle, while the third
machine is of chainless principle exclusively used for heavy/bottom weight fabrics.
The Average processing speed is 60-70 mts/min
Chemicals used in the process for mercerization
are:
• NaoH, Organic acid, Caustic soda.
Fig:-Impregnation Chamber

Fig:-Impregnation and Dwelling zone
The fabric is fed into the machine via the feed rollers and the weft straighteners to the
chains which lead to the impregnating chamber where the NaOH is sprinkled on the
stretched fabric held by chains. The intensive impregnating zone is followed by the
reaction zone. In the retention compartment of the DIMENSA the chainless principle
with lifting top rolls is employed. At the start of the stabilizing zone that is immediately
after the Mercerizing section there is a stenter section using the chain principle.
Ultimate stabilization is done in a conventional, highly effective stabilizing
compartment with chainless guidance. Stabilizer chemical is sprinkled for assisting in
removal of NAOH.
Fig:- Stabilizing zone
The final section comprises a high-efficiency washing and neutralizing zone

consisting of EXTRACTA, or TRIKOFLEX compartments, where temp maintained is
between 90-95 C and pH-5-6, organic acid is used for neutralization.The final
Mercerized fabric has a pH of 5 and can also be labelled as RFD.
Fig:- Washing and Neutralization

Fig:- Washing and Neutralization
1.5 DYEING
After completion of the pre-treatment processes the batches are marked as RFD
(Ready for Dyeing).The dying process is decided by the dye used, preferred fixation
process and quality desired. The prominent dyes used for the dyeing are reactive,
disperse and vat
1.5.1 PROCESS FLOW FOR DYEING

PURE COTTON FABRIC :-
PRE-TREATED FABRIC (cotton )
Cold pad batch Pad dry Continuous dyeing

padding
Colour
development Pad steaming for
curing
Washing
Dyed fabric
BLENDED POLYCOT DOUBLE BATH PROCESS
Pre-treated (Polycott fabric) Reactive dyeing in CDR
Disperse dyeing in CDR Reduction clearing on pad
Reduction clearing on pad Washing on washing /soaper

BLENDED FABRICS POLYCOT SINGLE BATH PROCESS
Pre-treated (Polycott fabric) Dyeing is single bath solution of

reactive as well as disperse dyes on
CDR
Dyed fabric Washing
1.5.2 COLD PAD BATCH
Fig: - kuster’s dye pad

The cold pad batch machines are used for applications of only reactive dyes. There
are three cold pad batch machines from benninger known as kusters dye pad.
The colour requirement of a fabric is directly dependent on the following:
 The length of the fabric to be dyed
 The pick up of the fabric in percent
 The GLM of the fabric.(Gram per linear metre)
Dyeing process takes around 16 hrs for dyeing at
room temperature. It can produce a range of light,
medium and dark colours. CPB has a vertical
arrangement of rollers for dipping the fabric in dye
solution. The count of rollers may vary from 1 to 4.
The machine may operate in a
range of 50-60 mts/min. The
dye to chemical ratio may vary
but standard ratio used is of 4:1.
Fig:-single dip single nip
The various chemicals used in the dyeing trough are:-

 Fixer chemicals - Sodium silicate and Rocoflo - anyone used for fixing.
 Reactive dyes .
 Soda and caustic
After impregnation of the dyestuff the finishing rollers and squeezing unit squeeze out
the unrequired dye solution. These batches then require fixation/curing dwell time for
which the batches are kept under rotation(to avoid any leaching out of any dyestuff)
in the RFD storage generally for 16 hrs.Each machine has 3 dye and 2 chemical
tanks with each having a capacity of 800 lts. Approx production is 20,000-22,000
mts/shift.
 Benefits of Cold pad batch :-
 Uniform linear liquor application by two deflection-controlled rolls throughout the
entire batch.
 “n” number of reproducibility of all dyestuff and chemical applications.

 No side-to-center shading, due to smooth treatment of the selvedge’s
Fig: Dye solution dosing
1.5.3 MONFORTS THERMOSOL
Fig:- Monforts Thermosol

The Monforts thermosol is a continuous dyeing range in which the pre-treated fabric
is given as input and a completely dyed fabric is received at the output which is then
sent for finishing. This is mainly used for the following types of dyes:
Fig:- Monforts Thermosol Dyeing Range
 Disperse modified vat dye and reactive
There
are 2
monforts thermosol which have similar construction and only differ in the number of
IR dryer Chamber which one machine has a single unit
while the other has two, requirement of dryers depends upon the application required.
The machines have a Thermex hot flue chamber which has 28 rollers in 3 chambers.
The temperature of the chambers are:

Dye Chamber1 Chamber2 Chamber3
Vat 110oc 110 oc 120 oc
Reactive 110 oc 110 oc 120 oc
disperse 180 oc 203 oc 203 oc
The chemicals are put in the wetting chamber along with dyes which includes :
 Binders
 Softner
 Glaubers Salt
 Acetic acid
Fig:- IR dryer

The fabric is fed through the Feeding section which then passes into the section
Wetting unit where it is dipped in the akalis required for dye fixation and dye
solution are present as required. The fabric then passes on to air passage rollers that
assist the penetration of dyes after which fabric pass into the IR dryer units where
through heat of the IR burners partial or pre-drying is performed where up to 40 %
of the moisture is removed. Temperature is maintained at 450oC , the fabric then
passes into the Thermex hot-flue where the measuring and control unit (chamber
atmosphere) control the temperature and the Steam injection unit provides steam for
heating the chamber. After the curing process the fabric is completely dyed and
received at the Outlet section. The speed of the machine varies from 45-50 mts /min
and generally runs at 25-30 mts /min at a average.
1.5.4 BENNINGER THERMOSOL
Fig:- Beginner thermosol
The Benninger thermosol is mainly used for vat , reactive and disperse dyeing
process. The machine is mainly based on the working process principle of pad-dry
pad steam method in which the dye impregnation and drying is done on the themosol

while the pad steam/curing is performed on the Benninger pad-steam machine.The
fabric is fed into the machine by various rollers /a scray. The fabric subsequently
enters the dyestuff trough where it comes in contact with the dye solution, application
method used is of single dip single nip. Then it passes through a intermediate air
passage which assists in the dye penetration and then passing into the IR dryer unit
for the purpose of pre drying which composes of 3 units and 3 burners heated at
gradually increasing temperatures up to 450oc. the pre drying process helps in
removal of up to 40 % of the moisture. After pre-drying the fabric enters the therm
fix hotflue chamber in which the fabric is passed and dried at high temperature and
high pressure, thus resulting in a completely dried fabric as the output.
To constantly provide dyestuff solutions there are 5 storage tanks of which 4 are dye
tanks and 1 is of chemical is of 4 with capacities ranging from 500-1500 lts. The dye:
chemical ratio thus is maintained at 4:1 at an average.
1.5.5 BENNINGER PAD STEAM
Fig:- Benninger pad steam range

The pad steam machine lies in line with the thermosol machine for completion of the
PDPS process(Pad dry Pad steam). The Benninger pad stream machine is basically
used for the following purposes:-
 Colour development
 Reduction clearing in case of blended fabric double bath dyeing.

There are 3 Benninger pad steam machine’ s available for the above said
objectives.Dyes which are processed in the pad steam machine are:-
 Reactive dyes
 Vat dyes
Chemicals used for reactive pad steam process are:-
 Salt
 Soda ash
 Caustic
Chemical for vat dye pad steam process is: - caustic hydro.
The fabric is fed through feed rollers into the chemical trough where alkali for
fixation /chemicals for reduction clearing are applied on the fabric through single nip
single dip method after which it passes into the booster chamber where the special
squeeze nip of the booster guarantees a uniform pickup, independent from
production speed and fabric weight. The fabric then moves into the recta chamber
with rollers where steam treatment is given to the fabric at high temperature and high
pressure.
Fig:- Reacta chamber
After which the fabric passes on to the extracta chambers. There are 9 extracta
chambers that are used for the purpose of soaping, washing, neutralization and
reduction clearing. In first two extracta chambers washing takes place at room
temperature. In the following two chambers H2O2 for oxidation is added at 600C.In the
next 3 chambers soaping and hotwash is done. In the concluding 2 washing
chambers hot wash with neutralization is at 90-950c degrees. The delivery customer

cylinders nip out any moisture in the fabric with steam heated cylinders and fabric is
received in dried condition as output. The processing speed at an average is 50
mts/min.
Fig:- Continuous Pad steam range
1.5.6 BENNINGER WASHER /SOAPER
The Benninger washer or soaper does the basic function of washing after the dyeing
process in order to remove any unfixed dye on the fabric surface. There are two such
machines which have in addition to them an Arioli flash ager which is a steamer
used for two phase printing for a shortening dwelling time for fixation of dyes in
printed fabrics.
Printed fabric washing
Fabrics which are two phase printed using the vat

dyestuff in a oxidized dyestuff without reducing
chemicals and dried are treated with a chemical bath
containing the reduction chemicals and alkali padded
with face-side out using the kiss roll application
technique and usually only the printed face is in contact
with the fixation solution, after which, steaming and
washing is done. Dekol+peroxide +acetic acid mixture is
used for the soaping and washing of printed fabrics.
Textile Internship at Alok Industries, Vapi, Gujarat

Fig:- flash Ager Page 53
Recipe used in the flash ager:-
 Glaubers salt
 Maize starch cooked.
 Invitier MR
 Soda ash
 Borex
 Caustic 48TW
 Hydro
Dyed fabric washing
The machine has in total 9 chambers in which 2 initial extracta chambers are for
rinsing purposes and I chamber for application of the required chemicals during
processing next 5 chambers are the washing setup which is used for washing after
the dyeing . The soaping is done in two ways:
 Cold Pad Batch Wash

 Cold Wash
Cold Pad Batch wash –
Dekol fbsn and acetic acid mixture is used for dyed fabrics from cold pad batch the
fabric is first set for relaxation and passed through the heated chambers given as
under
The fabric is treated with water at 30OC ,then treated with water at 40oC,then a soap
solution of DECOL FBSN and acetic acid is applied at 60C,Normal washing with
water at 90C takes place in the next 5 chambers ,Green acid of neutralizes the fabric
at 80oc in the last neutralizing chamber

COLD WASH – Cold wash is given to fabrics coming direct from the continuous
dyeing range. The fabric is passed through the heated chambers given as under:
 The fabric is treated with water at 30oC. It is then treated with water at 40OC.
A soap solution of Arieanal +acetic acid is applied at 50C.Normal washing
with water at 50C takes place following which green acid of 160 gpl
neutralizes the fabric at 50oc. The maximum speed of the machine goes up
to 40 m/min.
The second washer has drums in its extracta chambers which are also known as
Trikoflex; this makes it preferable for medium weight and light weight fabrics.
2. KNITS DYEING
2.1 INTRODUCTION
Once the Marketing Department informs the PPC about the order given by the buyer,
the PPC plans the amount of fabric to be made in the Silvassa’s Knitting unit before
being sent to Vapi for processing.Buyers’ Specifications include the amount of the
fabric, the GSM etc. A specified percentage weight of fabric is processed in extra to
meet consumption of fabric during the series of processes involved.
2.2 PROCESS FLOW FOR KNIT DYEING
FABRIC KNITTING
GREIGE DEPT

DYEING
FINISHING
INSPECTION
PACKAGING
2.3 GREIGE DEPARTMENT
There are 4 griege opening machine of

Hsing cheng of which there are two
machines each for open width and double
folding . Double folding machines change
the open width to tubular form for better dye
pick up. Opened fabric are then received in
plated form in a trolley.
Fig:- Hsing cheng open width fabric opener
The mechanism involving tubular

conversion is a folding device for joining the
two ends along the length of the fabric and
the stitch the ends together with the help of a Kansai Sewing Machine. The machine
is equipped with sensors to open the curved edges. The production capacities of
these machines are 1500 kg/day whereas of open width grey opening machines it is

2500 kg/day. After the grey opening, the fabric is sent to the dyeing department in
trolleys.
Fig:- Hsing cheng Double folding machine
2.4 DYEING OF KNITS
Dyeing of knits is a delicate process for which rope dyeing in soft flow machines is
preferred to avoid any unnecessary stretch that may occur during dyeing process.
The dyeing is mainly of reactive and disperse type. There are 20 Sclavos Athena soft
flow machines with capacities varying from 500-1500 kg the plant has a capacity of
850 tonnes per month.
2.4.1 DYEING PROCESS FLOW
GREY OPENING
IF LYCRA NO STRECH FIBER
HEAT SET PRETREATMENT + DYEING
FINISHING

2.4.2 DYEING PROCESS
Fabrics blended with stretchable fibres are heat set

immediately after the opening of the fabrics rolls to set the
yarns in the fabric and avoid any unnecessary stretch.
Fig :- Sclavos Athena
Knit dyeing is basically carried out in batches. The dyeing

in the soft flow machines begins with the RFD batch dozing into the machine through
machine windows in rope form with one end tied along with a magnetic type piece
so as to receive the tied knot after dyeing at the window after which water through
the circulation pies is pumped and a hot wash at 80oC is given followed by a cold
wash. The pre treatment chemicals such as :- Wetting agent, NaOH provides
assisting in impurity removal, H2O2- Hydrogen peroxide used as a bleaching agent
are dozed from the addition tanks provided besides the machine with the ph
maintained at 6.During all the dozing processes the fabric rope rotates on the tied
reel in clockwise direction . After pre treatment the dyeing chemical dozing is done
after chemicals from the storage tanks are mixed in the addition tanks at 60 oC for 15
mins, following colour, salt and soda dozing. After the required dwelling time an acid

dozing is done following which soaping and rinsing along with a hot wash and cold
wash. Softeners are also used during the soaping for finishing purpose if required.
Temperature suitable for dyeing some fibres are as follows:-
 Cotton :- 80oC – 850C
 Polyester: - 130 oC -135 oC.
Dwell time required for various shades
application: - Light :- 6-6.5 hrs, Medium –
7.0-7.5 hrs, Dark- 7.5-8.5 hrs, Extra dark:-
more than 8.5 hrs.
Fig:- SOFT FLOW MACHINES
3. YARN DYEING
Yarn dyeing is a process of imparting color to a greige yarn. Thet yarn packages of
greige yarn comes to Yarn Dyeing Department from the Spinning unit (Silvassa).
These come in cheese forms having cardboard package material at the core.the
range of yarns available range from 4s to 2/100s.
There are two types of dyes used in the department.
(a) Vat Dye
(b) Reactive Dye
3.1 PROCESS FLOW FOR YARN DYEING
Winding
Pre-treatment
Dyeing

finishing
Drying
Rewinding
3.2 WINDING
The first process in yarn dyeing is winding. Winding is required to transfer greige yarn
from standard cardboard packages to soft packages. These soft packages are
perforated in nature and are necessarily required for penetration of dye liquor into
the package during the dyeing process.As the greige yarn cone package has non-
uniform density thus to make the package of uniform density it is necessary to wind
it.
There are 5 SSM winding machines of which 3 of model TW 1-W with 50* 2 spindles
and 3 of model PSW6 with 96 * 2 spindle. The diameter of the soft tube used is
74mm. The soft cones can be either be of plastic or of spring shaped steel tubes. A
high speed winding is done from the greige packages to soft packages with Weight of
the soft packaged yarn being constant at 1.15kgs.the finished width of the yarn
packages range from 165mm-175mm.
The dye package has the following requirements according to the different
influences on the dyeing process:
Density:
The regularity of the density within a package and from package to package has to
be in a range of +/- 2.5 with regard to the capacity of the dyeing equipment the

density should be as high as possible. This parameter is auto controlled on the
machine.
Shape:
Cylindrical packages are the preferrable for dyeing as cylindrical packages help
optimum packing of the dyed vessel. Additionally the cylindrical packages have an
even flow resistant which makes it much easier to achieve an even distributing of the
dye stuff. Straight sides ensure an optimum sealing between the packages to avoid
by-passing of the dyestuff.
Fig :- Requirements For soft cone winding
3.4 LOADING
Fig:- Rockwell Double girder crane

After winding of soft packages, these are stacked/loaded on the package carriers
which vary in capacity as per the machine in which they are used. These have
perforated rods for circulating dyestuff and chemicals. The package carriers are then
carried by a crane to its respective machine for dyeing purpose.
3.5 PRE-TREATMENT
Fig:- Fong’s yarn dyeing m/c
Yarn dyeing is done in batches. After placing the yarn carriers in the dyeing
machines of suitable capacity the pre-treatment ,dyeing and finishing of the
yarns is performed together. In pre-treatment, scouring is done as the first step.
Thereafter, yarn is put through a caustic soda bath followed by hydrogen peroxide
and acetic acid treatment along with other chemicals. This process is carried out
at 100°C.
Machine capacity Number of machine

25kgs 3
50kgs 2
54kgs 3
553kg 2
750kg 3
1070kg 3

(sample dyeing)
6kg 3
3kg 3
1kg 3
3.6 DYEING PROCESS:
After the completion of the pre-treatment processes the chemicals are flushed out of
the chamber and the packages are rinsed with water pumped in from the addition
tank, simultaneously the chemicals and dyes required are prepared in the storage
tank for dozing after rinsing. Then as per required sequence dozing of chemical and
dyes are done with required dwell time. The dyeing can be of isothermal or migration
type. Depending upon the intensity of the shade various temperatures and dwell time
are as follows:-.
Light shades - 60°C - 70°C for 40 - 60 mins.
Medium shades - 80°C - 90°C for 60 – 80 mins.
Dark shades like black - 80°C - 110°C for 80 – 90 mins.
Chemicals used in dyeing are Glucose, Caustic soda, Sodium Hydrosulphite and
Glauber’s salt.
After the dyeing is finished then neutralization is done with an organic acid followed
by soaping, hot wash and a cold wash.
3.6 FINISHING
Post dyeing the yarns are given finishing by the following chemicals :- Hydrogen
peroxide, Pervalin RS, Acetic acid and Perfil 210.This process is carried out at
95°C.After finishing the packages are removed from the machines and dried in the
hydro extractor and electro-magnetic dryers and then rewinded on cardboard
packages from soft cone by SSM rewinding machines, after which the packages are
ready for packaging dispatch. The total time taken for the whole process i.e. pre-
treatment, dyeing and finishing is 6 – 8 hrs, depending upon the intensity of the
shades.
• 4hrs - white shades,

• 6 hrs - light shades
• 6 – 8 hrs for dark shades.
4. DYEING OF TOWELS.
4.1 INTRODUCTION
Dyeing of terry towels which has 100% cotton content reactive dyes are used
because they are good colour fastness, eco-friendly, and also cheap.Rope dyeing
is preferred mode of dyeing for towels as padding towels would tend to destroy
their terry (pile).
4.2 PRE- TREATMENT
Pretretment of towels is done in Benninger PTR range similar to that which was
used for woven pre-treatment. The towel PTR range differs in only an additional
reacta chamber meant for enzymatic desizing purpose. The following chemicals are
used for pre-treatment purpose:-
• Desizing agent
• Wetting agent
• Lubricating agent- reduce surface tension
• Sequestering agent-reduce water hardness
• H202

4.3 DYEING
Dyeing of towels is preferably done in a soft flow

machine so as to avoid any destruction of
piles/loops on the surface of the fabric. The rope
dyeing technique is similar to that of knits. In
rope dyeing the towel rope is run in
predetermined number of cycles with a pre
determined cycle time with max speeds upto 250
rpm. There are 7 theis soft flow dyeing machines
with capacities ranging from 350 kg-1400 kg.The
pre treated towels are dosed and then a rinsing
is done after which dosing of dyeing chemicals is
done. Liquor ratio(M:L) used IS 6:1 lt/kg. The
various Chemicals used for dyeing purpose are:-
• Dyes:- Reactive dyes
• Lubricants
• Sequestrant
• Levelling agent-
• Salt
• Soda ash-to maintain alkaline medium
• Acetic acid
After the dyeing process soaping with dekol fbsn is done followed by neutralization
by green acid and to give a soft feel softners of caustic and silicon base may be
optionally added.
The dwell time required for various colour shades are:
• Light :- 4 hrs
• Medium :- 5 hrs
• Dark:-6hrs

• Extra dark:- 8 hrs.
Machine capacity(kgs) Number of machines

1400 1
1050 1
700 1
350 2
90 2

5. Colour Kitchen
Colour kitchen is an area where dye solution is prepared for bulk dyeing as per the
recipe given from the laboratory. They have particular codes of various colour
recipes. The proportion of chemical and dyes required for a particular is already fed
into the computer. Whenever a batch card with the particular colour code comes to
the colour kitchen that particular code number is fed into the computer and the
respective proportions of dyes and chemicals is automatically taken. After this the
prepared solution is passed to various tanks stationed beside the dyeing machines by
means of pipes.
There are different colour kitchens for the following departments:

• Woven processing
• Knits and yarn processing
• Printing
• Towel dyeing

PART IV.....
PRINTING

PRINTING OF WOVEN AND KNITS FABRIC
Printing is the textile processing technique for localized application of dye/pigment is

a desired pattern /design. The styles of printing are carried out are
reactive,discharge(white and colour),pigment. The printing section has its own design
studio and colour kitchen for screen,dye/pigment solution development .
Printing
Department
Design Studio Colour Kitchen Printing
1.1 DESIGN STUDIO
The studio is responsible for the designing of the designs for screens which are
required to be developed in accordance to the design specification provided by the
buyer. There are 5 workstations which are equipped with Ramsete III version 8.33 for
design development. Screen preparation department is the provided by the ready
designs and its specification for the preparation of screen.

ENGRAVING:
After receiving the design developed for screen, work in the screen preperation starts
with the engraving. Nickel made Fine mesh ready screen of varying circumferences
of 640mm,819mm and 914 mm
are available .CST Inkjet printing unit is used for the purpose of engraving.Coating of
the screens is done with the combination of three constituents namely, Photo
emulsion (readymade liquor), Dichromate and Distilled water which is done as per
the design The design development is done through the ink when the screen is
exposed to uv-light ,coating hardens to retain itself and then washing in reggiani
screen washing machine to wash off the undried ink, thus the inked part becomes the
area of penetration for the colour
pigment in the rotary screen.
Thereafter the coating on the screen
is cured in the embee curing machine
for 2 hrs at 100°C f. After which the
screens are finally dried in the femate
Climatizer
Fig:- ENGRAVED NICKEL SCREE
Fig:- CST SCREEN ENGRAVING MACHINE
DIGITAL PRINTING:

The screen preparation department also houses Mimaki Textile Inkjet is the machine
used for digital printing. Digital printing is done at a very small scale for only special
purposes. Any type of fabric can be printed upon using this machine
Fig:- Mimaki Textile Inkjet printer
Appoximately 60 million colors can be printed using this machine. Ripmaster is the
CAM used for controlling these machines operations.
1.2 AUTO KITCHEN
Auto color kitchen is responsible for making the paste for printing by using various
chemicals & dyes and regularly suppy the machines as required.
The kitchen has 5 silo storages for urea(hygroscopic agent),sodium bicarbonate,

Potassium carbonate used for reactive printing paste, Resist salt(oxidizing
agent),soda ash. These silos supply to the automatic prepeartion unit(1000 lts) for
paste preparation.
Key Ingredients for printing paste are :-
Binder: - 18% binder is used for dark shade.

6% binder is used for lighter shade.
Luprimol (STG) - It act as softner which reduces hardness of the water and paste soft.
Lutexgel(HIT) - It act as thickner to make viscous paste of the dye.
Fixing agent(LF) -It act as fixer & rubbing fastness will increase.

Rongolite (ST) -It act as reducing agent for white and color discharges.
For 100 % cotton fabric sodium sulphoxylate is used , for blended fabrics Zinc
Sulphoxylate is used.
There is a roto mix machine for the colour preparation which is dosed by chemical by
various dosing systems which prepare the colour paste in large open tubs which are
transported to the machine for dosing the paste to the screens.
1.3 PRINTING:
The Textile printing practised at Alok is the rotary screen methods for which there are
3 Reggiani rotary printing machines, 1 Lakshmi rotary printing machine and a sample
printing machine from Reggiani. In addition to this there are Two Aroli Loop Agers
that are used for the purpose of curing.

1.3.1 PROCESS FLOW FOR PRINTING
REACTIVE PRINTING
PRINTING SOAPER
DRYING STEAMING FINISHING

DISCHARGE PRINTING
CURING
PRINTING DRYING STEAMING SOAPER
FINISHING
PIGMENT PRINTING
PRINTING DRYING CURING SOAPER FINISHING
1.3.2 PREPARATION OF CLOTH FOR PRINTING
The wet preparatory processes are all carried out on the Benninger PTR where as for
knits its done in the Sclavos soft flow machines. Apart from wet preparations the cloth
is brushed & sheared on lafer shearing machine by being passed over rapidly
revolving knives arranged spirally round an axle, which rapidly and effectually cuts off
all filaments and knots, leaving the cloth perfectly smooth and clean and in a
condition fit to receive impressions of the most delicate engraving. Some figured
fabrics, especially those woven in checks, stripes and crossovers, require very careful
stretching and straightening on a stenter frame, before they can be printed with
certain formal styles of pattern which are intended in one way or another to
correspond with the cloth pattern. Finally, the cloth is wound around a hollow wooden
or iron centers into rolls of convenient size for mounting on the printing machines.
PRINTING MACHINERY
A rotary printing machine prints designs with enraved designs on a curved cylinder..
Substrate here is a continuous fabric roll which is to be printed and further modified
if required (e.g. die cut, overprint varnished, embossed).

The initial development of the samples is done using CAD in the studio using which
the screens are developed after which the Reggiani sample printing machine is used
for preparation of samples . The normal width of this machine is 70”. It can be
extended up to 120’’
1.3.3.1 LAKSHMI ROTARY PRINTING MACHINE
For printing, rotary printing machines are

used which is of an Indian brand –
Lakshmi. Up to 12 colors design can be
printed in this machine. The screens are
mounted on the screen stations
provided ,for each color in the design a
screen is used with the color paste being
provided into the screen through a pipe
and a squeeze arrangement within the
screens apply pressure to enable printing
paste penetration.
Fig:- Lakshmi screen printing range
The fabric is fed through rollers to the printing table and is stabalized in width by a
guiding system .As the fabric passes under the screen rollers the colors are applied
as per design. The capacity of this machine is 20 to 100 meters/seconds depending
upon factors like design and the number of colors in that design and the types of the
fabric (coarser takes less time as compared to finer fabric).The machine is pre-
equipped with the under-bed washing and drying unit which cleans and dry up the
belt after each cycle . After printing rollers, the drying unit dries printed fabric in a 5
chamber arrangement dedicated for drying. After drying, the fabric is sent to the
polymerizer for fixation, i.e. the fixing of dyes /pigments.

1.3.3.2 REGGIANI MACHINE
Fig:- Reggiani screen printing range
There are 3 Reggiani rotary printing machines out of which 2 machines can print up
to 12 colors and the third machine can print upto 14 colors. The Reggiani screen
printing range is has similar operation run as that of the Lakshmi rotary printing
machine. The only difference in both the machines is the application of glue in the
Reggiani machine by a glue roller that ensures that the fabric sticks to the running
conveyor belt as it passes under the various screen rollers for coloration.
Fig:- Reggiani Screen printing machine
After printing it enters the heating chamber where there are 5 chambers that dry the
printed fabric with high temperature and pressure. Two machines out of three have
the dryer in on-line position where as the third machine has an dryer in over head

position. The dried fabric received is then received in a batch form or plaited
(preferable) and then sent for curing.
Technical details of Reggiani Rotary printing machine
Number of colours 12 & 14(max 24 colors)
Printing speed 30 to 45 m/min max(90 m/min)

Printing width 72” to 80”
Multi repeat printing heads (screen 640 to 1200 mm

size)
Squeegee system UNIFLUX continuous magnetic field
Process control for Reggiani dryer
Reactive printing
I Chamber 1500c +/- 15
II Chamber 1500c +/- 15
Speed 30 +/- 15 mts /min
Pigment printing
Speed 40 +/- 15 mts /min
Discharge printing

Speed 20 +/- 10 mts/min
1.4 ARIOLI LOOP AGER
After the printing process is completed the fabrics have

to undergo a curing process for the polymerization of the
dye applied in printing.
Fig: Arioli loop ager

machine
To perform the required curing process and polymerization of pigments with standard
long loop treatment there are two Arioli Loop Agers available which fix the dyes
through high temperature treating with a suitable dwelling time. This machine is
suitable for both woven and knits .The fabric is then fed into the loop ager chamber

where short loops are formed which allows increasing the dwelling time. With such a
system, the most delicate discharge prints and colouring overlapping may be safely
treated without risking rubbing or marking. Pigment prints polymerizing in hot air is
done at temperatures up to 160°C. If reactive dyes are used, the temperature of the
dye is kept 102°C
Fig: Arioli loop ager curing range
Process control of loop ager printing machine
Pigment printing
Chamber 1 160oc
Chamber2 160oC
Speed 39 mts/min
Reactive printing
Chamber 1 107oc
Chamber2 102oC
Speed 24 mts/min
Discharge printing
Chamber 1 107OC

Chamber2 102oC
Speed 33 mts/min
Technical details of loop ager
Fabric capacity 87 yds/80 mts
Roller widths 87’’
Working speed 22 yds/min
Dwell time 4-40 secs

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1.

OBJECTIVES OF TEXTILE INTERNSHIP

 Spun yarn production

 Grey fabric production (both woven and knits)

Textile Internship at Alok Industries, Vapi, Gujarat Page 1

FIG:- ALOK INDUSTRIES PRODUCT WHEEL

Textile Internship at Alok Industries, Vapi, Gujarat Page 2

Alok industries was established in 1986 as a

2.3 VISION OF THE ORGANIZATION

2.4 MISSION OF THE ORGANIZATION

Textile Internship at Alok Industries, Vapi, Gujarat Page 3

⊕ Offer innovative, customized and value added services to customers.

⊕ Actively explore potential markets & products.

⊕ Optimize use of all resources

⊕ Maximize people development initiatives

⊕ Become a process driven organization

⊕ Be a knowledge leader and an innovator in the businesses

⊕ Exceed compliances and global quality standards

⊕ Be an ethical, transparent and responsible global organization

2.5 REMARKABLE MILESTONES

Textile Internship at Alok Industries, Vapi, Gujarat Page 4

2003 Export Trading House status granted

2008 Awards from TEXPROCIL for 2007-2008

 Gold Trophy for highest exports of bleached/yarn dyed/ printed

Textile Internship at Alok Industries, Vapi, Gujarat Page 5

4.1 PROCESS FLOW AT NARROW WIDTH PLANT(WOVEN, KNITS , YARN)

Buyer’s requirement: - Requirements and specifications required are sent

Textile Internship at Alok Industries, Vapi, Gujarat Page 7

Shipment :- The goods are dispatched.

Textile Internship at Alok Industries, Vapi, Gujarat Page 8

Textile Internship at Alok Industries, Vapi, Gujarat Page 9

Shipment :- The goods are dispatched.

Textile Internship at Alok Industries, Vapi, Gujarat Page 10

Textile Internship at Alok Industries, Vapi, Gujarat Page 11

• Textile design department

• Weaving preparatory department

• Grey folding department

Textile Internship at Alok Industries, Vapi, Gujarat Page 12

DYED YARN GREY YARN

SECTIONAL DIRECT WARPING

Textile Internship at Alok Industries, Vapi, Gujarat Page 13

The various Qualities or types of towels developed are:-

Cad software’s used for weave design developments are:-

Textile Internship at Alok Industries, Vapi, Gujarat Page 14

The basic structure of towel is divided into these main parts:

Textile Internship at Alok Industries, Vapi, Gujarat Page 15

1.5.1 PROCESS FLOW OF WEAVING DEPARTMENT

WARPING PLAN DESIGNING

TRANSPORT WEAVERS BEAM TO WEAVING DEPT

Textile Internship at Alok Industries, Vapi, Gujarat Page 16

Fig :-Benninger direct warping m/c

Textile Internship at Alok Industries, Vapi, Gujarat Page 17

Beam capacity 1250 kg (60000 m)

1.5.2.2 SECTIONAL WARPING

1.5.3.1 Benninger sizing machine (Ben –sizetec)

Fig:- Benninger Sizing Machine

Textile Internship at Alok Industries, Vapi, Gujarat Page 19

Speed of sizing 90-100mts /min

Temperature in the bath 950c

Tension in input yarn 650 N

Tension in output yarn 1050N

No. of drying cylinders 12