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Bicycle windlass construction manual (use with BB-01 "Bailer Bucket")

You will need to acquire the following parts:


1. Bicycle. This can be any cheap bicycle you can find (condition is almost irrelevant).
2. Galvanized water pipe (roughly 1" diameter, 5 to 6 ft long, threaded at least on one side)
3. Galvanized collar/coupler for water pipe (threads onto #2)

You will need access to the following tools:


1. Crude welder or J.B. weld (epoxy compound)
2. Heavy duty wire snips (able to closely clip bicycle spokes)
3. Hack saw
4. Hammer
5. Nail (small, finishing type). This is simply used to tap the rivet out of the bike chain.
6. Small adjustable wrench.

Construction:

1. Remove the wheels and left (non-geared) crank from


Figure 1 the bicycle. With a hacksaw, cut the bicycle frame at the
areas marked with a white line in Figure 1.

2. Keep the rear wheel, chain, right (geared) crank, right


pedal and lower frame as shown in Figure 2 (you will not
use any other pieces of the bicycle for this design).

3. Using wire snips, cut and remove the


spokes from the rear wheel. You only
want to keep the hub, gears, and guard
plate, so cut the spokes as close as
possible. Figure 3 and Figure 4.

Figure 3
Figure 2
4. Using a welder or J.B.
weld (epoxy compound),
spot weld the gears and the
rear wheel hub to eliminate
the "free spin" effect (the
hub and gears should move
in the same direction,
backwards and forwards).
Figure 4 Figure 5 shows the spot
welds. Figure 5

5. Using a welder or J.B.


weld, attach a galvanized
Figure 6. collar (threaded,
female/female) to the main
tube of the bicycle frame.
Figure 6.

6. Re-attach the rear hub


and chain. Figure 7.

7. In order to achieve proper chain tension, you will have to


remove some links with a hammer and nail as in Figure 8 (be
sure not to pop the rivet completely out as you will have to put it
back in after you have shortened the chain). The most efficient Figure 7
set up for the chain is large chainring (crank/pedal), small cog
(rear hub/gear).

8. Thread the windlass onto the pipe via the collar. Position the
galvanized pipe to allow the bailer bucket to hang centered over
the well casing, and the crank to be at a comfortable height. You will actually cement the galvanized
pipe into the ground next to the well (you want about 2 ft of pipe in the ground for stability). Attach the
rope and BB-01 "Bailer Bucket". Figures 9 & 10.

Figure 8

Figure 9 Figure 10