CONTENTS
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1. INTRODUCTION
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power tool models. Reference is
made to these handbooks in the
appropriate chapters of this
manual. To work on the underside (e.g.
removing the oil pump), turn the
You should make use of the machine over and position
illustrated parts lists while carrying clamping rail on the assembly
out repair work. They show the stand so that one screw engages
installed positions of the individual the inner 10 mm hole.
components and assemblies.
Note: Pull the hand guard against
p (
Always use the latest edition of the front handle before clamping
the parts to determine the part the machine in this position.
numbers of any replacement parts 1
required. Microfilmed parts list are Always use original STIHL
always more up to date than replacement parts.
printed lists.’ They can be identified by the
STIHL part number,
A fault on the machine may have the logo
several causes. Consult the and the STIHL parts symbol
troubleshooting charts for all 2 The symbol may appear alone on
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2 017, 018
2. SPECIFICATIONS
017 018
Displacement: 30.1 cm3 (1.84 cu.in) 31.8 cm3
Bore: 37 mm (1.46 in) 38 mm
Stroke: 28 mm (1.10 in) 28 mm (1.10 in)
Compression ratio: 9.5 :1 9.5 :1
Engine power: 1.2 kW (1.6 bhp) 1.4 kW (1.9 bhp)
Max. torque: 1.5 Nm (1.1 lb.ft) 1.5 Nm (1.1 lb.ft)
at n = 5500 rpm at n = 5500 rpm
Mean idle speed: 3,200 rpm 2,800 rpm
Main bearings: Two deep-groove ball bearings
Big end bearing: Cylinder rollers
(cageless) Needle sleeve
Small end bearing: Needle cage Needle sleeve
Piston pin diameter: Ø 8 mm (0.3 in) Ø 8 mm (0.3 in)
Connecting rod length: 51 mm (2 in) 51 mm (2 in)
Rewind starter: Pawl system
Reserve pull on
rope rotor: min. 1/2 turn
Starter rope: 3.0 mm (0.12 in) dia.,
800 mm (31.5 in) long
Clutch: Centrifugal clutch without linings
Diameter: 65 mm (2.56 in) 65 mm (2.56 in)
Clutch engages at: 4,100 rpm 4,100 rpm
Crankcase leakage
test
at gauge pressure: 0,4 bar (5.8 psi)
under vacuum: 0,4 bar (5.8 psi)
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2.3 Ignition System Type: Electronic magneto ignition
(breakerless) with integral
trigger unit
Air gap: 0.15 - 0.30 mm (0.006-0.012 in)
Ignition timing: 1.0 - 1.6 mm (0.04-0.063 in) B.T.D.C.
at 8,000 rpm
Spark plug (suppressed): CHAMPION RCJ 6Y
BOSCH WSR 6 F
Electrode gap: 0.5 mm (0.020 in)
Spark plug thread: M14 x 1.25
Length of thread: 9.5 mm (0.37 in)
Heat range: 200
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2.6 Tightening Torques
Plastoform screws are used for polymer components and "DG" screws for lightmetal components.
These screws form a permanent thread when they are installed for the first time. They can be removed and
installed as often as necessary without detrimentally affecting the strength of the screwed assembly, providing
the specified tightening torque is observed.
For this reason it is essential to use a torque wrench.
– Place the screw in the hole and rotate it counterclockwise until it drops down slightly.
– Tighten the screw clockwise to the specified torque.
This procedure ensures that the screw engages properly in the existing thread and does not form a new thread.
Remarks
1) Screw must be secured with adhesive 0786 111 1101 (Loctite 243).
2) Torque may be reduced by approx. 1 Nm (0.7 lbf.ft) when refitting a screw in an existing thread
Note: Screws secured with adhesive are easier to release if the adhesive is heated first with a hot air blower
(hair dryer). Take care on polymer components.
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3. CLUTCH, CHAIN DRIVE, CHAIN BRAKE AND CHAIN TENSIONER
3.1 Chain Sprocket 3.2 Chain Catcher
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• Unscrew nuts and remove the • Pull off the chain sprocket. Chain sprocket with integrally
chain sprocket cover. molded chain catcher (1).
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• Disengage the chain brake by • Take the needle cage out of the • Ease the plug out of the front
pulling the hand guard toward sprocket. right-hand AV element.
the front handle.
Reverse the above sequence to
install the chain sprocket.
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3.3 Clutch
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• Push the locking strip (1) into the • Screw clutch onto crankshaft
cylinder. and torque down to 50 Nm
(37 lbf.ft).
• Move Master Control lever (1) • Unscrew the clutch from the
down to lowest position. crankshaft.
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• Pull spark plug boot (1) off the • Fit shroud in retainers and
spark plug (2). turn twist lock to vertical position.
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3.4 Disassembling Chain Brake
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- Remove chain sprocket cover. • Remove the screw from the • Remove the washer.
hand guard.
- Disengage chain brake. - Remove the shroud - see 3.1.
1 2 2
1
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• Carefully pry the brake spring (1) • Ease the E-clip off the bell crank • Carefully ease the hand guard
off the anchor pin and unhook it pivot pin. (1) and bell crank (2) off the pivot
from the bell crank (2). pins and lift them away together.
1
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• Lever the brake band out of the - Slip the strap off the bell crank • Take out the flat spring.
engine housing and detach it pivot pin.
from the bell crank (1). - Inspect parts. Replace any worn
• Push the strap to one side and or damaged parts.
remove it from the hand guard
pivot pin.
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3.5 Assembling Chain Brake
1 2
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- Fit flat spring in position. • Place strap on pivot pin (1) and • Hook the brake spring onto the
push it in direction of arrow until bell crank.
• Slide bell crank into end of hand it engages the groove. Then
guard. The short arm of the bell push it over the pivot pin (2) and
crank must point to top of hand secure with the E-clip.
guard.
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1
• Locate bearing boss of hand • Attach brake band to the bell • Use the assembly tool (2) to
guard (1) on pivot pin and fit crank. attach the brake spring (1) to the
other end over the housing. anchor pin.
- Lubricate sliding and bearing
• Fit bell crank (2) on pivot pin and points of chain brake with STIHL
push it into position. multipurpose grease or, prefera-
bly, Molykote grease - see 11.2.
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• Fit the washer. • Fit the brake band and press it • Fit cover over chain brake and
into the engine housing. press it home until it snaps into
position.
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3.6 Front Chain Tensioner 3.7 Bar Studs
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1
• Fit hand guard over boss on fan - Remove chain sprocket cover. - Remove chain sprocket cover.
housing.
• Pull the cover out of the engine • Push the stud puller (1) onto the
- Insert screw and tighten to housing. stud as far as it will go.
1.7 Nm (1.25 lbf.ft).
• Unscrew the stud.
- Fit the shroud - see 3.1.
- Coat thread of stud with Loctite -
see 11.2.
1 2 - Insert stud and torque down to
16 Nm (11.8 lbf.ft).
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3
• Unscrew the nut (1) from the
adjusting screw (2) and take the
adjusting screw out of the cover
(3).
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4. ENGINE
4.1 Exhaust Muffler 4.2 Leakage Test
This machine does not have a Defective oil seals and gaskets or
conventional crankcase. cracks in castings are the usual
The engine consists of the causes of leaks. Such faults allow
cylinder, piston, crankshaft and supplementary air to enter the
engine pan. engine and thus upset the fuel-air
mixture.
Troubleshooting chart - see
,,General Servicing, Trouble- This makes adjustment of the
shooting“ handbook. prescribed idle speed difficult, if
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not impossible.
2
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4.2.1 Preparations 4.2.2 Pressure Test
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1
- Remove the muffler - see 4.1. • Check that sleeve is in position • Connect tester’s pressure hose
in manifold. to nipple on test flange.
• Fit the sealing plate (1) between
the screws. - Make sure the spark plug is
properly tightened down.
1
1
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2 1 2
• Push the flange (1) over the • Fit the test flange (1) in place of • Close the vent screw (1) on the
screws. the carburetor. rubber bulb.
• Fit the sleeves (2) on the screws. - Use rubber bulb to pump air into
the engine housing until the
- Fit the nuts and tighten them gauge indicates a pressure of
down firmly. 0.4 bar (5.8 psi). If this pressure
remains constant for at least 20
Note: The sealing plate must seconds, the engine housing is
completely fill the space between airtight.
the two screws.
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4.2.3 Vacuum Test
Oil seals tend to fail when sub- Note: If the vacuum reading
jected to a vacuum, i.e. the sealing remains constant, or rises to no
lip lifts away from the crankshaft more than 0.3 bar (4.25 psi) within
during the piston’s induction stroke 20 seconds, it can be assumed
because there is no internal that the oil seals are in good
counterpressure. condition.
However, if the pressure continues
An additional test can be carried to rise (reduced vacuum in the
out with the vacuum pump to engine housing), the oil seals must
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detect this kind of fault. be replaced, even if no leaks were
The preparations for this test are detected in the pressure test.
the same as for the pressure test -
• However, if the indicated see 4.2.1. - After finishing the test, open the
pres-sure drops, the leak must vent screw and disconnect the
be located and the faulty part hose.
replaced.
- Remove the test flange and refit
Note: To find the leak, coat the the carburetor - see 10.3.2.
suspect area with oil and
pressurize the engine housing - Remove the flange.
again. Bubbles will appear if a leak
exists. - Remove the sealing plate.
- Carry out the vacuum test - see - Install the muffler - see 4.1.
4.2.3.
2
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4.3 Removing and Installing
Engine
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- Remove handle frame - see 8.4.
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4.4 Oil Seals
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Important: Take special care not Starter side:
to damage crankshaft stub.
• Apply the puller (1) as at the
• If new oil seals have already clutch side and pull out the oil
been installed, use puller and seal.
No. 3.1 jaws to remove the
clamping ring (1). Pry the sealing Note: Remove the oil seal with
ring (2) out of the housing. clamping ring as described for
clutch side.
- Clean sealing face on crankshaft
stub with standard commercial, - Clean sealing face on crankshaft
solvent-based degreasant stub with standard commercial,
containing no chlorinated or halo- solvent-based degreasant
genated hydrocarbons - see 11.2. containing no chlorinated or halo-
genated hydrocarbons - see 11.2.
- Pack cavity between sealing lip
and oil seal with grease - see - Pack cavity between sealing lip
11.2. and oil seal with grease - see
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11.2.
- Thinly coat the outside diameter
of the oil seal with sealant - see - Thinly coat the outside diameter
Clutch side: 11.2. of the oil seal with sealant - see
11.2.
• Pry out the retaining ring. - Position the oil seal so that the
clamping ring faces upwards. - Position the oil seal so that the
clamping ring faces upwards.
1
1
1
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• Apply the puller (1) (with No. 3.1 • Use the press sleeve (1) to • Screw guide sleeve (1) on to the
jaws). install the oil seal. crankshaft stub.
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4.5 Cylinder
1
1
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• Use the press sleeve (1) to press - Remove the engine - see 4.3. • Lift the crankshaft and pull the
home the oil seal. piston out of the cylinder.
• Take the ring (1) and manifold
- Unscrew the guide sleeve. (2) off the intake port. - Inspect the cylinder and replace
it if necessary.
- Install the engine - see 4.3.
Note: If a new cylinder has to be
installed, always fit the matching
piston. Replacement cylinders are
only supplied complete with piston
for this reason.
1
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Note: Fit the clamp (1) on the • Position the piston ring so that
connecting rod to prevent it slip- the radii at the ring gap meet at
ping off the crankshaft while the the fixing pin in the piston groove
piston is being removed. when the ring is compressed.
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4.6 Piston
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- Apply a thin coating of sealant • Apply a thin bead of sealant to - Pull the piston out of the cylinder
to the outer diameters of the oil the engine pan mating face, see - see 4.5.
seals, see 11.2. 11.2.
• Use a scriber or similar tool to
• Slide piston carefully into the Note: Follow manufacturer’s ease the hookless snap rings out
cylinder. instructions for use of sealant. of the grooves in the piston
bosses.
Note: The piston ring is
compressed by the inner taper of
the cylinder.
1 2 2 1
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• Fit the engine pan so that the • Use the assembly drift (2) to
seat (1) for the oil pump is at the push the piston pin (1) out of
same side as the long crankshaft the piston.
stub (2).
Note: If the piston pin is stuck, tap
- Insert screws and torque down the end of the drift lightly with a
to 9.5 Nm (7.0 lbf.ft). hammer. Important: Hold the
piston steady during this process
to ensure that no jolts are transmit-
ted to the connecting rod.
1
- Remove the piston from the
connecting rod.
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2
2 1
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4.7 Piston Ring
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• Inspect piston ring and replace if • Fit the piston pin (1) on the - Remove the piston - see 4.5.
necessary - see 4.7. assembly drift (2) and slide it
into the piston (the pin slides - Remove ring from piston.
- Oil needle cage in the small end. home easily if the piston is hot).
• Use a piece of old piston ring to
- Heat the piston on an electric scrape the groove clean.
heating plate to approx. 60° C
(140° F).
2 1
1
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• Slip the piston over the connect- • Fit the snap rings. To do this, • Install the new piston ring in the
ing rod so that the arrow (1) on Apply the installing tool (1) to the groove so that the radii face
the piston head points towards piston boss, hold the piston upward.
you when the long stub (2) of the steady, center the tool shank
crankshaft points to the left. exactly and press home until the - Install the piston - see 4.5.
snap ring slips into the groove.
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4.8 Connecting Rod 4.9 Crankshaft
2 12 3
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- Remove the piston - see 4.6. • Remove cylindrical rollers from - Remove the connecting rod -
the crankshaft. see 4.8.
• Pull the oil seal (1) and ball bear-
ing (2) off the short crankshaft Note: Cylindrical rollers are avail- • Pry out the retaining ring (1).
stub. able in three tolerance groups.
Always replace cylindrical rollers • Pull off the oil seal (2) and ball
in complete sets (13 per set) to bearing (3).
ensure that they are all of the
same tolerance group. - Heat ball bearing to approx.
50° C (120° F) and push it on to
- Use grease, see 11.2, to stick the crankshaft stub as far as
the cylindrical rollers to the stop.
crankshaft.
- Coat sealing lip of oil seal with oil.
- Slide the connecting rod into
position and secure it with the - Slide oil seal on to crankshaft
clamp. stub so that the clamping ring
points outward (sealing lip also
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• Remove the connecting rod from • Apply thin coating of sealant, see
the crankshaft. 11.2, to outside diameter of oil
seals.
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5. IGNITION SYSTEM 5.1 Spark Plug Terminal
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system should always begin at
the spark plug. See ,,General
Servicing, Troubleshooting“
handbook. - Remove the shroud - see 3.3. • Pinch the hook of the leg spring
into the center of the lead, i.e.
• Pull the terminal (1) off the about 8 mm (0.3") from the end
spark plug (2). of the lead.
2
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The electronic (breakerless) • Use pliers to grip the leg spring • Pull the lead back into the
ignition system basically consists and pull it out of the spark plug terminal so that the leg spring
of an ignition module (1) and terminal. locates properly inside it (see
fly wheel (2). illustration).
- Unhook the leg spring from the
ignition lead. - Push the ignition lead into the
retainer, see 5.5.
• Pull spark plug terminal off the
ignition lead. - Fit terminal on spark plug.
- Coat end of the ignition lead - Fit the shroud - see 3.3.
(about 20 mm/3/4") with oil.
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5.2 Ignition Module 5.2.1 Ignition Timing 5.2.2 Removing and Installing
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and 1.6 mm (0.040" and 0.060")
B.T.D.C. at 8,000 rpm.
The ignition module accommo- Since there is no mechanical wear - Remove the shroud - see 3.3.
dates all the components required in these systems, ignition timing
to control ignition timing. There are cannot get out of adjustment. How- • Pull the terminal (1) off the spark
only two electrical connections on ever, an internal fault in the circuit plug (2).
the coil body: can alter the switching point in
such a way that a spark test will • Pull the ignition lead out of the
1. the high voltage output (1) with still show the system to be in order retainer (3).
ignition lead (2) although timing is outside the
permissible tolerance. This will
2. the connector tag (3) for the impair engine starting and running
short circuit wire behavior.
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be installed if no ignition spark is
obtained (after checking that
wiring and stop switch are in good
condition). • Pull the short circuit wire off the
connector tag on the ignition
module.
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5.3 Flywheel
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Note: Secure the ground wire with 1
the upper mounting screw.
Removing the flywheel: Note: If the flywheel cannot be
pulled off by hand, screw the
- Use locking strip to block piston - puller (1) on to the crankshaft
see 3.3. stub. Free off the flywheel by
lightly tapping the end of the
- Remove the fan housing - see puller. Unscrew the puller and
6.2. remove the flywheel.
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1 2
• Slide the setting gauge (1) • Inspect the condition of the fly-
between the arms of the ignition wheel (1) and magnets (2). If you
module and the flywheel find any damage (e.g. cracks,
magnets. broken fan blades), fit a new
flywheel.
- Press the ignition module
against the flywheel and tighten • Pull the flywheel off the crank- Installing the flywheel:
down the mounting screws to a shaft.
torque of 5.0 Nm (3.7 lbf.ft). Important: Clean the stub of the
crankshaft and the flywheel hub
- Push the ignition lead into the bore with a standard commercial,
retainer, see 5.5. solvent-based degreasant contain-
ing no chlorinated or halogenated
- Fit spark plug boot on spark plug. hydrocarbons - see 11.2.
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5.4 Ground Wire 5.5 Short Circuit Wire
2 1 2 1
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- Remove the fan housing - see - Remove the fan housing - see Note: After installing, push the
6.2. 6.2. short circuit wire between the
retaining lugs.
• Pull retainer (1) off the ignition - Remove the carburetor - see
lead. 10.3.2.
• Take the upper screw (2) out of • Pull the retainer (1) off the
the ignition module. ignition lead.
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• Pull the ground wire off the Push short circuit wire into recess
contact spring. next to intake opening.
a
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Note: After installing, push the • Pull short circuit wire out of Place short circuit wire and ground
ground wire between the retaining engine housing. wire in the retainer.
lugs. Push the ignition lead into the
Push ignition lead into the retainer, Install in the reverse sequence. retainer so that dimension ,,a“ is
see 5.5. about 60 mm (2.5").
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6. REWIND STARTER
6.1 General 6.2 Fan Housing
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windings to stick together. This
has a detrimental effect on the
function of the starter mechanism.
In such a case it is sufficient to - Remove the shroud - see 3.3. • Push the hand frame to one side
apply a few drops of paraffin until the fan housing can be
(kerosine) to the rewind spring. • Remove fuel tank and oil tank eased passed the corner (1) and
filler caps together with the cap removed.
Then carefully pull out the starter retainers.
rope several times and allow it to
rewind until its normal smooth - Drain both tanks.
action is restored.
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Lubricate the rewind spring and
starter post with STIHL special
lubricant, see 11.2, before • Take out the fan housing mount- • Pull the fan housing away to the
installing. ing screws. rear.
2
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6.3 Rewind Spring
6.3.1 Replacing
Troubleshooting chart - see Caution: The rewind spring may Note: The wooden assembly
,,General Servicing, Trouble- pop out and uncoil during instal- block can be placed over the
shooting“ handbook. lation. assembly tool to simplify this
operation.
- Remove the fan housing - see - If the rewind spring has popped
6.2. out, refit it as follows: - Slip the assembly tool with
rewind spring over the starter
- Pull out the starter rope about post.
5 cm (2") and hold the rope rotor
steady.
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Note: The replacement spring
comes ready for installation and
is held by a retainer. It should be • Position anchor loop about • Push the rewind spring into the
lubricated with a few drops of 11 mm (0.4") (dimension ’a’) fan housing and then remove the
STIHL special lubricant before from the edge of the assembly assembly tool.
installation - see 11.2. tool (1).
- Install the rope rotor - see
,,General Servicing, Trouble-
shooting“ handbook.
1
2
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The retainer (1) slips off as the • Fit the rewind spring in the
rewind spring is pressed into the assembly tool in the counter-
fan housing. Engage the anchor clockwise direction, starting
loop (2) over the lug in the fan outside and working inwards.
housing.
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6.3.2 Tensioning 6.4 Starter Rope, Pawl,
Rope Guide Bush
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• Grip the rope close to the rotor Note: The rewind spring is
and use it to turn the rope rotor correctly tensioned when the
six full turns clockwise. starter grip sits firmly in the rope
guide bush without drooping to
one side. If this is not the case,
tension the spring by one
additional turn.
• Hold the rope rotor steady. - Refit the fan housing - see 6.2.
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7. AV HANDLE SYSTEM
Rubber anti-vibration buffers are Lower annular buffer in engine Upper annular buffer in engine
installed between the engine housing housing
housing and handle frame.
Damaged rubber buffers (annular - Remove the fuel tank - see 10.7. - Remove the engine - see 4.3.
buffers) must always be replaced
in sets.
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• Pry the annular buffer out of the • Pry the plug out of the annular • Pry the plug out of the annular
handle frame. buffer. buffer.
- Pry annular buffer out of engine - Pry annular buffer out of engine
housing. housing.
2 1 2 1
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2 1
• Push the new annular buffer into • Push the new annular buffer into • Push the new annular buffer into
the handle frame until its groove housing from outside until its housing from outside until its
(1) engages the inner rib (2). groove (1) engages the inner rib groove (1) engages the inner rib
(2). (2).
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8. MASTER CONTROL/HANDLE SYSTEM
8.1 Switch 8.2 Contact Spring
1
2
3
4
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The thumb-operated Master • Set Master Control to - Remove the fan housing - see
Control lever moves the switch “CHOKE” (4) 6.2.
shaft to select the required • Pull choke rod out of the switch
function. shaft and choke shaft. • Pull ground wire off the contact
spring.
The following positions can be
selected with the Master Control
lever:
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starting throttle/
choke shutter open)
CHOKE (4) (cold start - • Pry the switch shaft out of its • Pull the contact spring out of its
starting throttle/ pivot mount. seat in the engine housing.
choke shutter closed)
- Pull the switch shaft out of the Reassemble in the reverse
- Remove the filter housing - see bore (1). sequence.
10.2.
Reassemble in the reverse
sequence.
1
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• Pull short circuit wire out of Note: The contact spring must be
connector (1) on switch shaft. lifted slightly to install the switch
shaft. Press switch shaft into its
• Pull contact sleeve of short pivot mount.
circuit wire out of switch shaft.
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8.3 Throttle Trigger/Interlock Lever
1 1 2 1
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1
- Remove the shroud - see 3.3. • Take the throttle trigger off the Note: Engage pivots (1) in holes
throttle rod (1). (2) and press handle molding
• Pry the handle molding off the home until it snaps into position.
handle frame.
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• Take the torsion spring out of its • Take the torsion spring off the
seat in the interlock lever. throttle trigger.
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• Remove the throttle trigger from • Pull the interlock lever off the
the pivot. pivot.
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8.4 Handle Frame
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- Remove the filter housing - see • Push the handle frame to one Note: The pin (1) must engage the
10.2. side and lift it away. hole.
• Disconnect throttle rod from the The groove (2) must engage the
throttle shaft. inner rib in the handle frame.
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1
• Pry the plugs out of the annular • Remove the throttle trigger (1) • Install annular buffer in handle
buffers. and interlock lever (2) - see 8.3. frame.
• Push the annular buffers out of • Remove the annular buffer - see
their seats. 7.
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9. CHAIN LUBRICATION
9.1 Oil Pump
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Troubleshooting chart - see
,,General Servicing, Trouble-
shooting“ handbook. • Screw puller (1) into the oil pump. • Unscrew the oil pump (1) from
the puller (2).
Removing oil pump:
1
2
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• Pry the suction hose out of its - Swing lever down into puller. Installing the oil pump:
seat.
• Push connecting pin through • Place the oil pump in position
hole marked ,,1130". so that the left edge (1) of the
groove lines up with the step (2).
1
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• Fit lever (1) of installing tool in • Push lever upward to pull the oil • Insert installer (1) with straight
the bore for the annular buffer - pump out of the housing. stem in the oil pump.
from inside.
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9.2 Worm 9.3 Oil Tank
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- Swing lever down into installer. - Remove the clutch - see 3.3. - Remove the handle frame - see
8.4.
- Push connecting pin through • Pull the worm with drive spring
hole marked ,,1130". off the crankshaft stub. • Pry the suction hose out of its
seat.
• Press lever down until the in-
staller butts against the housing.
The oil pump is thus installed at
the right depth in the housing.
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• Take the drive spring off the • Remove the oil and fuel tank
worm. filler caps together with the cap
retainers.
Reassemble in the reverse
sequence.
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9.4 Suction Hose/
Pickup Body
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- Fit the suction hose, pickup body
first, in the tank.
• Remove the flywheel - see 5.3. - Remove the oil tank - see 9.3. - Press the hose flange into
position.
• Pry flange of oil suction hose out
of oil tank. Note: Coat the hose flange with
a little oil to simplify installation.
1
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• Pull out the oil tank. • Pull suction hose with pickup • Line up the suction hose so that
body out of oil tank. its end (1) points to the center
Reassemble in the reverse of the curved section (2).
sequence.
- Install the oil tank - see 9.3.
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Note: When reinstalling, pass the • Pull the pickup body off the
suction hose through the hole. suction hose.
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10. FUEL SYSTEM 10.2 Filter Housing 10.3 Carburetor
10.1 Air Filter 10.3.1 Leakage Testing
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- Remove the shroud - see 3.3.
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• Remove the filter element. • Pull away the filter housing. • Pull fuel hose off carburetor
elbow connector.
- Wash the filter element in a - Inspect the filter element - see
fresh, non-flammable cleaning 10.1.
solution (e.g. warm soapy water)
and, if possible, blow out with Install in the reverse sequence.
compressed air. Soften en-
crusted dirt by soaking the Note: Tighten mounting nuts to
parts in cleaning solution. 3.5 Nm (2.6 lbf.ft).
2 1
Note: If filter is damaged, install
new part immediately.
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10.3.2 Removing and Installing
3 1
2
6
3
4
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5
3
• Use fuel line (1) with nipple (2) - Remove the switch shaft - see Note: Before installing carburetor,
as adapter to make connection 8.1. check that sleeve is in position in
between tester and carburetor manifold.
elbow connector. • Pull the fuel hose off carburetor
elbow connector.
• Push the nipple into the tester’s
pressure hose (4).
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10.4 Carburetor Adjustment 10.5 Pickup Body
The carburetor is equipped with a Adjusting idle speed The diaphragm pump draws fuel
fixed jet in place of the high speed It is usually necessary to change out of the tank and into the carb-
adjusting screw (H screw). the setting of the idle speed screw uretor via the fuel hose. Any
(LA) after every correction to the impurities mixed with the fuel are
Maximum engine speed is perma- low speed adjusting screw (L). retained by the pickup body (filter).
nently set and cannot be adjusted. The fine pores of the filter event-
Only the engine idle speed can be Note: Turn screws very slowly and ually become clogged with minute
adjusted within fine limits. carefully - even slight adjustments particles of dirt. This restricts the
produce a noticeable change in passage of fuel and results in fuel
The carburetor guarantees an engine running behavior. starvation.
optimum fuel-air mixture in all
operating conditions. Important: In the event of trouble
with the fuel supply system,
Engine stops while idling – always check the fuel tank and
Check standard setting. the pickup body first. Clean the
fuel tank if necessary.
Turn idle speed stop screw (LA)
clockwise until the chain begins to
run - then turn it back one quarter
turn.
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Erratic idling behavior, poor
Standard setting acceleration - Cleaning the fuel tank
even though low speed adjust-
If the carburetor has to be ing screw is one turn open • Unscrew the filler cap and drain
adjusted from scratch, first carry Idle setting too lean. the tank.
out the standard setting. Turn the low speed adjusting
screw (L) counterclockwise until - Pour a small amount of clean
Carefully screw down the low the engine runs and accelerates gasoline into the tank.
speed adjusting screw (L) until it is smoothly.
hard against its seat. Then open it - Close the tank and shake the
one full turn counterclockwise. saw vigorously.
- Check chain tension. - Open the tank again and drain it.
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10.6 Tank Vent 10.7 Fuel Tank
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clean the tank vent.
1
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• Pull the pickup body off the fuel Equalization of pressure from the • Pull the fuel tank out of the
hose. outside inwards takes place via engine housing.
the valve.
- Fit a new pickup body.
Note: Valve opening must be
Reassemble in the reverse clean.
sequence.
2
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Equalization of pressure from the • Remove the fuel hose (1) and
inside outwards takes place valve (2).
passed the sides of the valve.
Reassemble in the reverse
sequence.
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10.8 Fuel Hose
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1
Note: When pushing the fuel tank - Remove the fuel tank - see 10.7. • Pull the grommet off the fuel
into position, route the fuel hose hose.
between the straps on the engine • Use assembly hook (1) to pull
housing (see illustration). the pickup body out of the tank. Reassemble in the reverse
sequence.
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11. SPECIAL SERVICING TOOLS AND AIDS
11.1 Special Servicing Tools
1 Locking strip for piston 0000 893 5903 Blocking the crankshaft
2 Sealing plate 0000 855 8106 Sealing exhaust port for
leakage test
3 - Flange 1123 855 4200
4 - Bushing 1123 851 8300
5 Test flange 1118 850 4200 Leakage test
6 Carburetor and 1106 850 2905 Testing engine housing and
crankcase tester carburetor for leaks
7 Vacuum pump 0000 850 3501 Testing engine housing for leaks
8 - Nipple 0000 855 9200
9 - Fuel line 1110 141 8600
10 Puller 0000 890 4400 Removing oil seals
11 - Jaws (No. 3.1) 0000 893 3706
12 Press sleeve 1123 893 2400 Installing oil seals
13 Guide sleeve 1123 894 7700 Protecting oil seal at
starter side
14 Clamp 1120 893 9100 Holding big end bearing
15 Assembly drift 1114 893 4700 Fitting piston pin
16 Installing rool 8 5910 890 2208 Fitting hookless snap rings
in piston
17 Assembly tool 1117 890 0900 Fitting brake spring
18 Stud puller M8 5910 893 0501 Removing bar mounting studs
19 Setting gauge 1111 890 6400 Setting air gap bettween ignition
module and flywheel
20 Assembly tool 1116 893 4800 Installing rewind spring
21 Assembly tool 1123 890 2200 Removing oil pump
22 - Puller 1130 893 1400
23 - Installer 1130 893 1500
24 Assembly hook 5910 893 8800 Removing pickup body
(fuel)
25 Assembly stand 5910 850 3100 Holding saw for repairs
26 Clamping rail 5910 890 2000 For mounting saw to assembly stand
27 Torque wrench 5910 890 0301 Screw assemblies (0.5 to 18 Nm) 1)
5910 890 0302
28 Torque wrench 5910 890 0311 Screw assemblies (6 to 80 Nm) 1)
5910 890 0312 2)
29 Screwdriver QI-T27x150 5910 890 2400 For all IS screws 3)
30 Crimping tool 5910 890 8210 Attaching connectors to
electrical wires
31 Puller 1116 893 0800 Removing flywheel
32 Socket, 13 mm 5910 893 5608 Flywheel nut
33 Socket, 19 mm 5910 893 5612 Clutch
34 Socket T 27x125 0812 542 2104 IS screws
Remarks:
1) Always use torque wrench to tighten DG screws.
2) Wrench has optical/acoustic signal.
3) On DG screws, use for releasing only.
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11.2 Servicing Aids
1 Lubricating grease 0781 120 1111 Oil seals, oil pump drive,
chain sprocket bearing, chain tensioner,
switch shaft/contact spring
3 STIHL special lubricant 0781 417 1315 Bearing bore in rope rotor,
rewind spring in starter cover
7 Dirko sealant 0783 830 2120 Engine pan, oil seals (outside diameter)
(100 g/3.5 oz)
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