Weaving Norm

1.0 YARN CHARACTERISTICS FOR SHUTTLELESS WEAVING

Parameters Up to 40s Above 40s

CV% for Count Upto 1.2 Upto 1.4
Warp and Weft CSP 3200(3000) 3000(3200)
Single Thread Tenacity 20g/tex 20g/tex
CV% for Single Thread Tenacity Less than 7 Less than 7
Elongation at Break(%) Above 5.5 Above 6
CV% for elongation at break Less than 7 Less than 7
Elongation at Break(%) Above 5.5 Above 6
CV% for elongation at break Less than 7 Less than 7
CV% for TPI Less than 5 Less than 5
Uster Evenness% Less than 10% Less than 11
The yarn hairs having length more than 3mm 3 per Metre 3 per Metre
Yarn imperfection/1000m Less than 50 Less than 70

Ξ Above 100 ends/inch quality and loom running at the speed of above
500 ppm, the mill should go for 5% Uster norm for yarn.
Ξ Ring yarn elongation at breaks properties to be retained in
subsequent weaving preparatory processes.

2.0 WINDING

2.1 YARN BREAKAGE

Type of Machine Yarn Breaks per 1,00,000 metres

Autoconer Good Average Poor
20 30 40

Ξ These breakage consist of A4+B4+C4+D4+C3+D3

and highly objectionable classimat faults.

2.2 CAUSEWISE BREAK-UP OF END BREAKS IN WINDING

Type of yarn Fault % of Total Breaks

Embedded Fluff 15
Loose – lint 15
Slubs 10
Singling and weak places 25
Piece-ups 10
Foreign matter/kitties 10
Other yarn faults 15
Total 100

2.3 CLEARING EFFICIENCY(%)ON WINDING MACHINE

Type of Machine Clearing Efficiency (%)

Autoconer Good Average Poor
95 90 85

2.4 YARN CLEARING SETTING (ELECTRONICS YARN CLEARER)

Count Upto 40s Above 40s

Yarn Clearer Setting

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Weaving Norm

(Electronic yarn Clearer) N 7 7

DS 2.2 2.6
LS 2.0 1.6
DL 1.3 1.4
LL 25 25
-D 20 to 25 25
-L 40 to 60 60 to 90
C 1.4 1.4

The clearer setting decides the clearing efficiency. The clearer is

intended to remove A4+B4+C4+D4+C3+D3 and highly objectionable
classimat faults.

2.5 WINDING SPEED

Type of Machine Winding speed m/min

Auto coner Upto 40s Above 40s
1100 to 1300 900 to 1100

For yarns meant for high reed (above 100 ends/inch)sorts, the
winding speed is about 10%lower than above figures but in any case
not less than 900 mpm

2.6 WINDING MACHINE EFFICIENCY

Type of Machine Machine Efficiency (%)

Autoconer Good Average Poor
90 85 80

2.7 LOSS IN STRENGTH AND ELONGATION

When the yarn from wound package is tested, the loss in strength
and elongation at break should not exceed 5% of that the ring yarn.

2.8 SPLICE FAILURE

Machine Type Yarn Count Splice Failure %

Good Average Poor
Autoconer* Upto 40s 3 7 15
Above 40s 5 10 18

Ξ The norms hold good for a minimum suction pressure level

given by the machine manufacturer.

2.9 SPLICE QUALITY

Splice dimension: 1.2 to 1.4 times the parent yarn diameter

SAG-Splice appearance grade (ATIRA) : 3

Length of Splice : 3 to 3.5cm
Retain splice strength : Above 85%
Splice Breaking Ratio : Maximum 20%

2.10 TENSION ON YARN DURING WINDING

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Weaving Norm

Tension on the yarn during winding should be about 10% of

corresponding single yarn strength.

2.11Wound yarn Package Variation : ±0.2

2.12 Wound yarn package weight variation should be ±0.5 to 1% of

normal weight.

2.13 WINDING MAINTENANCE COST

Machine Type Maintenance Cost

(Rs./Spindle/Shift)
Autoconer 3.0

3. WARPING

3.1 DIRECT WARPING

3.1.1 MACHINE SPEED

Machine Type Machine Speed

Super High Speed i.e.
Hacoba or Benninger
Warping Machine
For counts upto 40s-Warping speed
should not be less than 25% of maximum
speed recommended by machine
manufacturer.
For counts above 40s –Warping speed
should be 10% less the speed maintained
for upto 40s count yarn
For coloured yarn-It should be 5% less
than that of corresponding grey yarn

3.1.2 WARPING BREAKAGE

Machine Type Warping Stops/400ends/1000m

Super High Speed Good Average Poor
0.2 0.5 0.7
Warping Machine

3.2 SECTIONAL WARPING MACHINE

3.2.1 MACHINE SPEED

Machine Type Machine Speed (mpm)

Super High Speed Sectional Warping
400
Machine

3.2.2 WARPING BREAKAGE

Machine Type Warping Stops/400ends/1000m

Super High Speed Sectional Good Average Poor
0.4 0.8 1.0
Warping Machine

3.3 CONTRIBUTION OF SPINNING AND WINDING FAULTS

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Weaving Norm

Machine Type % Distribution of

Super High Speed Spinning Faults Winding Faults
65 35
Warping Machine

3.4 CAUSEWISE BREAK-UP OF END BREAKS IN WARPING

Type of causes % of total breaks

Related to Spinning
Thin end/soft end 45
Slub/bad piecing 5
Foreign fibre 3
Others 12
Sub Total 65
Related to Weaving
Splice 5
Package faults 15
Bunches 5
Wild yarn, fluffs 5
Other 5
Sub total 35
3.5 TENSION ON YARN DURING WARPING

Tension on yarn during warping should be about 5% to that of

corresponding single thread strength of the yarn.

3.6 EFFICIENCY OF WARPING MACHINE

Machine Type Efficiency (%)

Super High Speed Warping Machine 60-65
Super High Speed Sectional Warping Machine 45-50
For coloured pattern set 30-35

3.7 WARPING KNOT

The warping knot tail should have length of 5 to 6 mm.

3.8 WARPING MAINTENANCE COST

Machine Type Maintenance Cost

(Rs/machine/Shift)
Super High Speed Warping Machine 50.00

4. SIZING

4.1 MECHANICAL STRETCH:1.0%

4.2 OPTIMUM YARN TENSION DURING SIZING

% of Single Thread Breaking Strength of

Ring Yarn
At Creel Between At Head Stock
Finishing
Squeeze Roll to
First Drying

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Weaving Norm

Cylinder
Norms for yarn 2-3 4-5 10-15
tension

4.3 SIZED YARN RESIDUAL ELONGATION : 4.5%

4.4 NORMS FOR GAIN IN STRENGTH AND LOSS IN ELONGATION

AT BREAK OF SIZED YARN

Type of Yarn Gain in Strength Loss in Elongation

Upto 40s >25 <15
Above 40s 15-25 <15
Polyester Blended Yarn 5 – 15 <15
• Based on the single thread breaking strength and elongation
at break of ring yarn.

4.5 DEAD LOSS PERCENTAGE

Good Average Poor

Norms for (%) dead loss
15 25 35
Dead loss % is calculated on the basis of material issued from
stores.

4.6 VARIATION IN SIZDE PICK-UP

Good Average Poor

Norms for size pick-up variation
±1 ±2 ±3
Φ Deviation from nominal pick-up %

4.7 VARIATION IN SIZE PICK-UP IN PAIR OF BEAMS ON LOOM

Norms for size pick-up variation ±1.5%

between pair of beams on loom

4.8 DROPPING

Norms for size dropping: 0.10% of the size pick –up (by weight
basis)

4.9 MIGRATION OF ENDS(For cylinder sizing)

Count of yarn No.of ends/1000 ends/1000m

Good Average Poor
Upto 40s 1 3 5
Above 40s 3 7 10
For coloured yarns, these values will have to be increased by 15%

4.10 LAPPERS

Lappers/1000 ends/1000m
Norms for incidences of lappers in Good Average Poor
0.2 0.4 0.8
sizing

4.11 SIZING MAINTENANCE COST

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Weaving Norm

Machine Type Maintenance Cost

(Rs./Machine/Shift)
Sucker Muller, Jupiter Benninger 150.00

5. DRAWING – IN PRODUCTION

5.1 Drawing – in production/pair of persons/8 hrs.:5500 ends

5.2 Knotter productivity : 13000 ends/operative

6. LOOMSHED : Shuttleless Loom

6.1 LOOM SPEED

Count of Yarn Loom Speed

Upto 40s Weft insertion rate (metres per minute)
should be 10 to 15% less than that of
recommended by loom manufacturers
for that loom model.
Above 40s Weft insertion rate (metres per
minute)should be 5 to 10% less than the
speed maintained for upto 40s yarn
For coloured yarn Weft insertion rate (metres per
minute)should be 5 to 10% less than
that of corresponding grey yarn

6.2 WARP AND WEFT STOPS PER HOUR

Upto 40s Ne Above 40s Ne

Warp Weft Warp Weft
Loom Type Sorts
stops/ Stops/ stops / stops/
hr. hr. hr. hr.
Twill 1.5 0.40 1.9 0.5
PROJECTILE LOOM

Denim 1.0 0.50 1.3 0.7

Plain 1.1 0.50 1.4 0.7

Poplin 1.8 0.45 2.3 0.6

Twill 1.6 1.5 2.0 1.6

AIRJET LOOM

Denim 0.8 1.3 1.0 1.4

Plain 1.4 1.3 1.8 1.4

Poplin 2.5 1.3 3.1 1.4

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Weaving Norm

Twill 1.2 0.70 1.5 0.9

RAPIER
Denim 1.1 0.75 1.4 0.9

LOOM
Plain 0.7 0.75 0.9 0.9

Poplin 1.4 0.70 1.80 0.9

6.3 CAUSEWISE SNAP EFFICIENCY LOSSES %

Causes % Loss in Efficiency

Warp & Weft + Interference of 7.5
Warp & Weft
Repair 1.0
Beams Gaiting/knotting 2.5
Lubrication & Cleaning 0.5
Other 0.5
Total 12.0

6.4 DROPPINGS

Norms for Loom Droppings = 0.30% of the size yarn weight.

6.5 TIMING FOR WEAVER ATTENDING FAULTS

Time in Min.
Attending warp stop 1.00
Attending weft stop 0.18

6.6 YARN TENSION DURING WEAVING

Tension on yarn during weaving should not exceed 30% of single

thread strength of ring yarn.

6.7 GAITING TIMING

Beam knotting Timing . . . . . . .. 12 min/1000 ends

Beam Gaiting without Sort Change:

Single Width Loom . . . . . . . . . 1-3 hrs depending upon the sorts

Double Width Loom. . . . . . . . . 3-8 hrs depending upon the sorts

Beam Gaiting with Sort Change:

Single Width Loom . . . . . . . . . 1 shift

Double Width – Rapier Loom . . . 2 shift

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Weaving Norm

- Sulzer Loom . . . 2 shift

6.8 MANPOWER IN SHUTTLELESS WEAVING SHED

Weaver’s Assignment 8-16 looms depending upon sort

particulars and loom width.
Helper Reliever 1 helper for 3 weavers

Material Handler (Weft & Cloth 1 upto 48 looms

Carrier)
Fitter / Maintenance 2 persons to 48 looms

Expected operatives per 100 loom 23 to 32

shifts

6.9 HARD WASTE LEVEL

SIZING
Set change waste per set 45-50m sized yarn +25m Grey yarn
Lapper 0.04 to 0.06% of sizing production
Bad beams/soft beams 0.02% of sizing production
LOOMS
For leno & false selvedge on loom 20mm to 80mm per pick
False selvedge 40 to 20 ends in false selvedge
Total Hard Waste in Weaving 1.8%

6.10 LOOM MAINTENANCE COST

Loom Type Maintenance Cost

(Rs./loom/shift*)
Projectile 35 – 65
Rapier 50 – 90
Air-jet 50 – 100
*depending upon machine model

6.11 WEAVING EFFICIENCY

Sort Minimum Weaving Efficiency %

Cotton Bottom Wear 92
Cotton Shirting 85
Coloured & Super Fine Sorts 82 to 85

6.12 GREY FABRIC DEFECTS

System Acceptable level

4 Points system 20 points/100 sq.m.fabrics

6.13 WEFT PACKAGES

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Weaving Norm

Steamed weft packages are found to give better performance

alongwith reduction in incidences of broken pick especially on air jet
looms.

IDEAL STEAMING CONDITION

Type of Chamber : Vacuum Steam Chamber

Temperature (ºC) : 90 to 100

Steam Pressure (kg/cm2): 0.5

Time (Min.) : 20

The number of cycles depends on yarn count, TPI and package size.
In general two to three cycles are sufficient.

The steam packages should be kept under covering. The conditioned

packages should be consumed within 4 hours.

6.14 AIR CONSUMPTION ON AIRJET MACHINE

Loom Width Air Consumption in Cubic feet/8 hrs.*

190 cm to 220 cm 12000 - 15000
* Depending upon the machine model and speed

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