Aleuron - Tu Li Thuyet Đen Thuc Te Lam Sang

M PHM ALEURON: T L THUYT
BS. Trn Quang Dng BS. on Cng Hip
N THC T LM SNG
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No part of this document may be reprinted, reproduced, transmitted, or utilized in any form by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying, microfilming, and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without written permission from the authors. For non-commercial or educational purpose, please contact the author(s): dr.tran_quang_dung@yahoo.com Cc tc gi gi bn quyn. Mi trao i, gp xin vui lng lin h: dr.tran_quang_dung@yahoo.com This is a continous edited document. Ti liu c sa i, b sung lin tc. This document was compiled at the request of Miss World Corporation. Ti liu ny c bin son theo ngh ca Cng Ty C Phn Th Gii Hoa Khi.
Miss World Corporation

D21, KP5A, Tn Bin, Bin Ha, ng Nai Tel: +84.613.98.99.99 Fax: +84.613.889.888
Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011
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BS. Trn Quang Dng, CK1 - Ph Trng Phng Nghin Cu S B BS. on Cng Hip, CK1 - Trng Phng Nghin Cu Lm Sng
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PHN MT
M HC, SINH L, SINH HA H THNG DA BNH THNG
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M PHM ALEURON: T L THUYT N THC T LM SNG
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M HC, SINH L, SINH HA H THNG DA BNH THNG

Da l mt h thng bao ph mt ngoi c th, c trng lng ln hn bt c c quan no trong c th. Din tch da (BSA) trung bnh ngi trng thnh vo khong 1.73 m 2. Din tch da c nhiu ng dng lm sng. Do cn thit phi bit mt s cng thc tnh din tch da ca ngi ln v tr em. Formulas for Body Surface Area (BSA) of adult:
The Mosteller formula (recommended)
BSA (m) = ( [Height(cm) x Weight(kg) ]/ 3600 ) BSA (m) = ( [Height(in) x Weight(lbs) ]/ 3131 ) BSA (m) = 0.007184 x Height(cm)0.725 x Weight(kg)0.425 BSA (m) = 0.20247 x Height(m)0.725 x Weight(kg)0.425 BSA (m) = 0.024265 x Height(cm)0.3964 x Weight(kg)0.5378 BSA (m) = 0.0235 x Height(cm)0.42246 x Weight(kg)0.51456 BSA (m2) = 0.0003207 x Height(cm)0.3 x Weight(grams)(0.7285 - ( 0.0188 x LOG(grams)
)
The DuBois and DuBois formula The Haycock formula The Gehan and George formula The Boyd formula
Body Surface Area In Infants And Children (3 30 kg): BSA (m) = ( [Height(cm) x Weight(kg) ]/ 3600 ) BSA (m) = ( [Height(in) x Weight(lbs) ]/ 3131 )
The Mosteller formula (recommended)
The DuBois and DuBois formula
BSA (m) = 0.007184 x Height(cm)0.725 x Weight(kg)0.425 BSA (m) = 0.20247 x Height(m)0.725 x Weight(kg)0.425 BSA (m2) = (P + 4)/30 BSA (m) = (4P + 7)/(90 + P)
Formulae without using length
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p dng BSA: Chc nng thn GFR ~ CCr
Formula
Cockcroft -Gault formula CCr corrected formula
Ch s tim
Liu ha tr ung th Liu cortisol duy tr trong iu tr suy thng thn:
6-12 mg/m BSA/day
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H thng da bao gm da v cc phn ph nh: lng tc, mng, cc tuyn (tuyn m hi, tuyn b nhn, tuyn v) Da c xem l b mt ca c th, trong nhiu trng hp da c nhng thay i c hiu cng vi cc bnh khc nhau. Da c cu to bi hai loi m: biu m v m lin kt Da c phn chia thnh ba lp: thng b, chn b, h b. Chiu dy da 0.5 5 mm
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Cu to da
Thng b H b B
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Thng b
M hc T bo hc T bo thn kinh (TB Merkel) T bo min dch (TB Langerhan, Lymphocyte, Mastocyte...) T bo sc t Lp sng Eleidin Keratin giu lu hunh (5% S) Nhn thoi Th lin kt ha (cht) khng cn Tonofibrile + Keratohyalin Eleidin Nhn thoi Th lin kt ha (cht) khng in hnh Ht keratohyalin (giu protein) khng c mng (cha profilaggrin v loricrin) Th Odland c mng (giu lipid) ha mng xut bo phng thch lipid gian bo to thnh hng ro bo v c dng phin mng (skin lipid barrier lamellar structure) Tng hp b si trng lc (tonofibrile) Lin kt gai gip da bn chc Tng hp siu si trng lc (tonofilament) Bit ha Sinh sn Hnh thi hc Sinh l hc
M lin kt
Lp sng
Biu m lt tng sng ha
T bo sng
Lp ht
Lp gai
Lp y
Biu m l
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g ?
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Biu m
nh ngha Tp hp cc t bo xp st nhau to thnh khong gian bo khng ng k. Tc dng ph mt ngoi c th v cc khoang trong c th (biu m ph), hoc to thnh cc tuyn ngoi tit v ni tit (biu m tuyn) c im Cc t bo ln cn lin kt cht ch vi nhau bng cc hnh thc lin kt phong ph khong gian bo khng ng k C tnh phn cc: cc ngn hng v mi trng ngoi; cc y da trn mng y (l mng ngn cch biu m v m lin kt) Khng c mch mu. Biu m c nui dng nh thm thu cc cht t m lin kt qua mng y Ti sinh mnh Phn loi Theo hnh dng Biu m ph Theo chc nng Biu m tuyn Tuyn ni tit Cht tit ngm thng vo mu, khng c ng dn T bo ch tit Li mao mch Nguyn vn Tuyn ngoi tit
n (simple)
Tng (stratified)
Lt (Tessellate, squamous, pavement)
Sng ha: Thng b Mng tim, mng phi, mng bng Khng sng ha: thc qun, gic mc nh ngha
Cht tit theo ng dn ra mi trng bn ngoi c th ( ra b mt da hoc vo trong cc xoang t nhin)
Vung (Cuboidal)
ng thn
ng dn tuyn m hi
Cu to Kiu ch tit
T bo ch tit T bo ng dn Bn hy Ton hy
D dy, rut Gi tng (pseudostratified) c lng chuyn (ciliated): ng h hp Mt s ng dn ca tuyn nc bt (di hm)
Tr (Columnar)
Gi tng khng c lng chuyn: ng dn tinh a dng Gi tng: bng (transitional) quang Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011
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Vd: Vd: tuyn tuyn Vd: Vd: tuyn m m tuyn ty ni tit hi hi b nc nhn
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Cc Loi Biu M
Biu M Lt n
Biu M Lt Tng
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Biu M Vung n
Biu M Vung Tng
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Biu M Tr n
Biu M Tr Gi Tng, C Lng Chuyn

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Biu M a Dng
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Cc hnh thc lin kt trong thng b
(or zonula adherens or "belt desmosome")
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Lin Kt Cht (Lin Kt Vng Bt, Tight Junction):

Mng bo tng (thng cc ngn) ca 2 t bo nh th c
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may li bi nhng si ch protein
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Th Lin Kt Vng (Adherens Junctions, Zonula Adherens, or "Belt Desmosome")

Phn t Cadherin trong khong gian bo neo gi hai t bo biu m bng cch gn vo nhng si actin trong bo tng Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011
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Th Lin Kt (Desmosome)
Mt trong mng bo tng ca mi t bo i din c mt mng bm (attachment plaque) v an nhau khong gian bo. Th lin kt ca t bo sng lp gai thng b gi l lin kt gai. Lin kt gai l i tng nghin cu trong bnh da bng nc. Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011
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vi nhng si protein xuyn qua. Cc si protein xuyn mng i t t bo ny n t bo kia
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Lin Kt Khe (Gap Junction)

Vai tr l knh vn chuyn ion v cc tiu phn t < 1000 Daltons
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bullous pemphigoid antigens
Hemidesmosome
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Cc Lp Ca Thng b
Hnh thi hc Sinh l hc
Eleidin Keratin giu lu hunh (5% S) Lp sng Nhn thoi ha Th lin kt (cht) khng cn Tonofibrile + Keratohyalin Eleidin Lp Th lin kt sng Nhn thoi ha khng in (cht) hnh Ht keratohyalin (giu protein) khng c mng (cha profilaggrin v loricrin) Th Odland c mng (giu lipid) Lp ht ha mng xut bo phng thch lipid gian bo to thnh hng ro bo v c dng phin mng (skin lipid barrier lamellar structure) Tng hp b si trng lc (tonofibrile) Lp gai Lin kt gai gip da bn chc Tng hp siu si trng lc (tonofilament) Lp y Bit ha Sinh sn
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Cc Lp Ca Thng b
Vi th Hnh thi hc Sinh l hc
Eleidin Keratin giu lu hunh (5% S)
Lp sng
(15-30 hng t bo cht) Nhn thoi ha (cht) Th lin kt khng cn
Tonofibrile + Keratohyalin Eleidin
Lp sng
(thng khng thy c da mng) Nhn thoi ha (cht)
Th lin kt khng in hnh
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Ht keratohyalin (giu protein) khng c mng (cha nhiu profilaggrin v loricrin)
Lp ht
(3-5 hng t bo) Th Odland (giu lipid) c mng ha mng xut bo phng thch lipid gian bo to thnh hng ro bo v c dng phin mng (skin lipid barrier lamellar structure)
Tng hp b si trng lc (tonofibrile)
Lp gai
(8-10 hng t bo vi kh nng phn chia b gii hn)
Lin kt gai gip da bn chc
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Lp y
(L 01 hng t bo vung n hoc tr thp c kh nng sinh sn, trong khong 10% l t bo u dng)
Tng hp siu si trng lc (tonofilament)
Bit ha
Sinh sn
Cc t bo khc ca thng b
Cc t bo khc ca thng b (ngoi t bo sng), ch yu khu tr lp y v lp gai, c bn cht m lin kt
T bo sc t (Melanocytes)
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T bo min dch (TB Langerhan, Lymphocyte, Mastocyte...)
Cross-section showing two twin-groups of Merkel nerve endings from the tarsometatarsal skin. K, keratinocyte; M, Merkel cells with cytoplasmic protrusions (arrows), T, nerve terminals; S, terminal Schwann cells (From: Halata et al. 2003).
T bo thn kinh (TB Merkel)
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C IM SINH L, SINH HA CA THNG B

L biu m lt tng sng ha, thng b c ngn cch vi chn b bi lp mng y. Cc t bo sng (keratinocytes) ca thng b mang y cc tnh cht ca biu m, bao gm kh nng ti sinh mnh, cc hnh thc lin kt t bo phong ph v khng c mch mu nui dng trc tip. Chng (t bo sng) hin din tt c cc lp ca thng b vi hnh thi bin i dn t dng biu-m-vung-n (mt hng t bo) lp y n dng biu-m-lt-tng-sng-ha lp sng. Ngoi t bo sng, thng b cn cha mt s cc t bo khc, khu tr ch yu lp y v i khi lp gai, l cc t bo c bn cht m lin kt. Cc t bo ny bao gm: t bo sc t (melanocytes), t bo min dch (i thc bo Langerhans, i khi l t bo lympho v cc t bo min dch khc), t bo Merkel (cng vi cc u tn cng thn kinh trn to thnh phc hp Merkel xc gic). Cc t bo ny khng lin kt cht ch vi mng y v nhng t bo sng xung quanh, v th chng c th di chuyn n nhng ni khc (xung lp b hoc ln cc lp cao hn ca thng b) v gy ra cc phn ng sinh ha khc nhau. Cc c im ny ca thng b c nhiu ngha trong vic ng dng sn xut dc m phm: 1. Kh nng ti sinh mnh ca thng b: a. Gip thc y tin trnh lnh vt thng m khng li so, min l tn thng khng vt qu lp mng y ca thng b (vt l, trt). Trng hp vt thng vt qu lp mng y ca thng b (vt lot), cc nguyn bo si (fibroblast) t lp b c th xm nhp vo thng b v ti y, chng bit ha (differentiate) thnh t bo si trng thnh (fibrocyte). Tp hp cc t bo si trng thnh cng vi cc si co tht (bn cht l collagen) do chng tng hp nn chnh l c s cu to ca vt so. Trn thc t, vt so khng phi l hu qu ca s thiu ht collagen m chnh xc hn l s tng hp collagen c cu trc khc thng. Cc loi m phm khoa hc gip lm y so da trn hai nguyn tc chnh: (i) ly gii cc si co tht v (ii) iu ha qu trnh bit ha ca t bo si. Cn cc loi m phm c tc dng tiu sng/lt da (chemical peeling) ch mang tnh cht lm m so tm thi do lm gim tng phn gia cu trc so v cu trc da bnh thng xung quanh. Ty theo quan im ca nh sn xut, m phm c tr so c th phi hp nhiu c ch khc nhau. b. Lin quan n mn trng c: Kh nng sinh sn v bit ha nhanh chng ca thng b, nht l thng b nm trong phu nang lng, l mt trong cc yu t gp phn vo s hnh thnh nhn mn trng c (nhn mn trng c l s kt hp ca nhng mnh ch phm thoa ti ch vi tc dng tiu sng v/hoc c ch hin-tng-sng-haphu-nang-lng cho hiu qu nht nh trong vic iu tr/kim sot mn trng c. Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011
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vn t bo sng, vi sinh vt, t bo tuyn b, cc sn phm lipid b thoi ha ). Cc
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Ngc li, cc sn phm cha cc loi yu-t-tng-trng (Growth Factor) c th to ra nhn mn trng c. 2. Hnh thc lin kt t bo phong ph: Khi t bo sng bit ha n giai on tn cng, tc l khi t bo cht b y ln n lp sng, tr nn nhng l sng rt dt vi nhn bin mt hon ton v bo tng cha y si keratin, chng sn sng ri ra khi c th mt cch t nhin hoc do hot ng c hc (tm ra, k c). Trong nhiu trng hp, lp sng ny khng b rng i. Chng to thnh mt lp dy, lm da x x th rp, km thm m. Nguyn nhn c l do s lin kt bn cht gia cc t bo sng. Cc lin kt ny c th bao gm, nhng cha y : a. Lin kt gia 02 t bo: Trong lp sng, th lin kt (desmosome) in hnh ca lp gai b thoi ha, khng cn thy di knh hin vi quang hc, nhng vn cn li phn protein xuyn mng (desmocolin v desmoglein) gi l corneodesmosome. b. Lin kt gia phn lipid gian bo (hydroxy-ceramide) v phn protein trong t bo (involucrin) c. Lin kt gia cc protein bn trong t bo (loricrin, involucrin, keratin ) Cc lin kt thng cha nhiu si protein, trong keratin l loi protein giu lu hunh (~ 5%) v rt bn vng i vi nhiu cht ha hc. Nhiu loi m phm cha cht tiu sng (keratolytic), m khi c s dng cch cn thn, s cho hiu qu lm tr, lm sng da, thm ch iu tr mn trng c. Cht tiu sng m du (t kch ng da) v c hiu qu c l l cc cht lm phn hy c chn lc cu ni disulfide ca si keratin, v d nh lu hunh, thioglycolic acid v.v Cc loi acid lt khc (AHA, BHA, trichloracetic acid v.v) lm bin i si keratin bng cch b gy nhiu loi lin kt hn (lin kt hydro, lin kt k nc, thm ch c lin kt peptide), iu ng ngha vi vic tc dng ty t bo cht hiu qu hn, v mc kch ng da cng nhiu hn. 3. Khng c mch mu nui dng trc tip: Thng b ch c nui dng bng s thm thu cc cht dinh dng t mch mu ca lp b bn di. Vic b sung vo m phm cc cht dinh dng vi kch thc phn t va phi (vd: hyaluronic acid trng lng phn t thp, acid amin, vitamin, khong cht v.v) c th gip ci thin hot ng chuyn ha t bo, duy tr s sn chc, ti tn cho ln da, thm ch c tc dng h tr iu tr mt s bnh l da. Tuy nhin, cc cht dinh dng c kch thc phn t ln (vd: collagen) khng th c vn chuyn qua lp sng; cc cht ny khng c tc dng dinh dng, nhng c th gi m tt cho da. Hiu qu ca hot cht trong m phm s tng ln ng k khi da c mt lp sng mng (v d: sau khi ty da cht). V th nhiu loi m thm ch trichloroacetic v.v) vi cc loi vitamin v khong cht trong mt ch phm duy nht nhm lm tng hiu qu v uy tn ca thng hiu. Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011
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phm kt hp acid lt (vd: acid salycilic, acid glycolic, acid mandelic, acid mono-, di-,
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4. S hin din ca cc t bo m lin kt: Khng ging nh biu m, cc t bo m lin kt khng c nhng hnh thc lin kt cht ch, chng ng xa nhau vi khong gian bo quanh chng tng i rng. Trong cu trc ca thng b, cc t bo nh t bo sc t v t bo min dch cng khng lin kt cht ch vi cc t bo sng xung quanh, chng c th di chuyn v nhng l do cha c bit r. T bo sc t di chuyn xung lp b c th lm cho bnh l sm da tr nn kh iu tr hn. Trong khi t bo min dch di chuyn nhiu hn vo thng b c th lm trm trng thm cc bnh da min dch - d ng (nh chm th tng). V l do ny m cc loi m phm dnh cho da d ng thng b sung cc cht c cu trc tng t hng ro lipid bo v da (l lp lipid bao ph xung quanh cc t bo sng, thng c v nh lp xi mng bao ph xung quanh cc vin gch) nhm ngn cn s tip xc gia t bo min dch v cc khng nguyn (thng tr trn b mt da cng nh trong mi trng xung quanh). Mt trong cc loi khng nguyn c tnh sinh min dch mnh l khng nguyn t thm vi khun da (c l v th m mt s bc s da liu s dng khng sinh nh mt trong cc bin php h tr khi iu tr bnh da min dch - d ng. Vd: khng sinh tr t cu cho bnh nhn chm th tng). Cc sn phm lm sch da (sa ra mt, x phng) cao cp c kh nng lm sch cht nhn (bn cht l lipid), bi bn, vi khun, t bo cht m vn khng, hoc t lm suy yu hng ro lipid bo v da. l nh cc sn phm ny cha mt h thng t dc nh tng dng phin mng c o, c chit xut t du-thc-vt--qua-x-l. Cc chit xut thc vt ny cng c tc dng khng vim, v kim sot s pht trin ca mt s chng vi sinh vt c tnh sinh min dch mnh nh P.acnes, S.aureus, S.epidermidis. Tng t, cc sn phm dng da (cream, gel, lotion) cao cp cng b sung cht bo tng t cht bo sinh l ca thng b nhm ci thin tnh trng da kh v vim da d ng.
Hng ro da-lipid: M hnh gch-xi mng

A. T bo sng: nhng vin gch
1. Cu to ca t bo sng lp sng: Mt s im ni bt Khi t bo sng b y n lp sng, mng bo tng ca chng tr nn cng chc ging nh mt lp v sng (cornified envelope, CE). l do s lin kt cho Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011 Page
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(crosslink) gia nhiu loi protein khc nhau nm st ngay di mng t bo.
Lin kt cho gia cc protein trong lp sng Trong s cc protein tham gia to lp v sng (CE), c 02 loi protein quan trng l Involucrin v Loricrin. S xut hin ca 02 loi protein ny c th c pht hin sm trong t bo sng lp ht. Loricrin nm trong ht keratohyalin (ht sng trong), cn Involucrin th hin din trong bo tng. Ngoi ra cn nhiu loi protein khc cng tham gia to lp v sng, c th k ra mt s tn nh: keratin, envoplakin, periplakin, elafin, small proline-rich proteins (SPRs) v.v Hnh di y s minh ha s gn kt ca mt s protein tham gia to lp v sng:
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(small proline-rich proteins)
Nhiu loi protein lin kt vi nhau to lp v sng to ra lp v sng, cc protein ny lin kt (cross-link) vi nhau to thnh cc lin kt ha hc (bonds) bn vng. Trong s cc lin kt ha hc gp phn to ra lp v sng, c hai loi lin kt quan trng l lin kt (--glutamyl)-lysyl isopeptide v lin kt disulfide (-S-S-). Trong lp sng, cc protein to ra lin kt (--glutamyl)-lysyl bng cch: nhm -amino ca lysine (trn chui protein ny) lin hp vi
-glutamyl
(trn chui protein kia), vi xc tc l men
transglutaminase-l-thuc-nng--canxi-ni bo (Xem hnh bn di)
5 6
5 4
Cacbon s 5 l cacbon to nhm chc : ch nh
Glutamine 3 2 1
s, khng k hiu bng ch.
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Lysine
Acid glutamic
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(transglutaminase)
Protein 1
TGM
Protein 2
Protein 1
- Protein 2
Ngoi loricrin, trong ht keratohyalin (lp ht) cn cha mt loi protein gi tn l profilaggrin. Profilaggrin c cu to bi nhiu (khong 10-12) n v filaggrin. Chc nng ca filarggrin l gip gn kt cc si keratin khc. Cc chui filaggrin (trong phn t profilaggrin) c ni vi nhau bi nhng vng lin kt giu tyrosine, v c phosphoryl ha ti nhng v tr c cha serin. Mi chui filaggrin c th gn t 10-20 phn t phosphate. Vai tr ca phosphate l ngn cn s gn kt gia filaggrin v keratin. Mi khi c mt phn t filaggrin ri ra khi chui profilaggrin, phn t filaggrin cng loi b cc nhm phosphate v l ra v tr gn kt vi keratin. Mt khi qu trnh gn kt cc keratin hon tt, phn t filaggrin ri ra khi b si keratin bng cch chuyn i mt acid amin ca n l arginine thnh citrulline (khng tch in). Qu trnh ny tip din lin tc t lp ht xuyn sut n ht lp sng. Ti b mt lp sng, fillagrin b thoi ha hon ton to thnh cc acid amin, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, v lactic acid (cc sn phm thoi ha ny c tc dng gi m nn thng c gi l natural moisturizing factor, hay NMF, v thng c b sung trong cc thnh phn m phm). Filaggrin l i tng c nghin cu c bit trong cc bnh da min dch d ng (bao gm da kh, da vy c v chm th tng), hen ph qun, v vim khp dng thp. Mt trong nhng c ch bnh sinh ca cc lin quan n khng th khng protein-c-cha-citrulline (v d nh filaggrin). Hnh di y s minh ha cho ta thy chui phn ng sinh ha ca filaggrin t lp ht n lp sng: Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011
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bnh l min dch ny c th lin quan n t bin mt trong cc gene m ha filaggrin, hoc
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Profilaggrin bin i dn trong qu trnh bit ha ca thng b. Trong lp ht, profilaggrin c tch ly trong cc ht sng-trong di dng bt hot, khng ha tan. Khi nng ion canxi ni bo tng ln, ht sng-trong phng thch cc cht ca n vo dch ni bo. Ti y profilaggrin b kh phosphoryl v b thy phn qua nhiu giai on bi cc enzyme protease tr thnh cc n v filaggrin t do. Ring on filaggrin vi u N-tn c vn chuyn vo trong nhn t bo ri b thoi ging thnh chui A v chui B. Trong lp sng, cc phn t filaggrin t do lin kt vi si keratin, lm cho cc si keratin xp chng cht ln nhau thnh b si c mt dy c. Cc b si ny s to lin kt cho (cross-link) vi nhau di xc tc ca cc men transglutaminases (TGMs) v sau phng thch filaggrin vi xc tc ca cc men peptidylarginine deiminases (PADs, l men chuyn arginine thnh citrulline). Sau filaggrin tri nhiu qu trnh thoi ging vi cc men protease (trong c caspase 14) v hydrolase to thnh acid amin t do v cc cht khc nh acid urocanic (UCA) v acid pyrrolidone carboxylic (PCA). Nhng acid ny thng c gi l cc cht gi m da t nhin (NMF).
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Nh vy trong lp sng, mc d cc t bo sng cht, nhng nhng phn ng sinh ha vn din ra ht sc nhn nhp v phc tp. Kt qu l cc t bo sng c bao bc bi mt lp v sng (cornified envelope, CE) khng thm nc, c cu trc do dai, bn vng. C th v t bo sng nh nhng vin gch xy nn mt bc tng l hng ro chng ca c th ngn cn s xm nhp ca cc tc nhn khng c cho n (v d nh: d ng nguyn, vi trng). Hnh minh ha di y cho ta mt ci nhn tng qut v lp v sng:
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2. S sinh sn v bit ha ca t bo sng: T lp y n lp ht Ngi ta c tnh rng mt t bo sng bnh thng (khng bnh l) mt khong 28-30 ngy di chuyn t lp y n tng thp nht ca lp sng (tc l tng ng vi mt chu k kinh nguyt). T bo ny cn c thm 15-45 ngy na di chuyn trn vn b dy ca lp sng. Nh vy trung bnh t bo sng mt khong t 45-75 ngy di chuyn t lp y n tng cao nht ca lp sng (ri ri khi c th vo mi trng xung quanh). Thng thng mi ngy lp sng mt i mt hng t bo (lp sng c khong 15-30 hng t bo), v cng c mt hng t bo mi c y ln lp sng. duy tr s ton vn cu trc da, s lng t bo mi i vo lp sng phi cn bng vi lng t bo b mt i. S cn bng ny c gi n nh l nh qu trnh sinh sn v bit ha ca t bo sng b kim sot nghim ngt. Cc yu t tham gia iu ha s sinh sn v bit ha ca t bo sng c th c lit k mt cch cha y nh sau: Receptors Cytokines Ion Enzyme
Receptors: Cc th th (trong nhn t bo, trong bo tng, trn mng t bo) l yu t quan trng tham gia iu ha hot ng phn chia, bit ha v chuyn ha ca t bo sng. Nhiu loi dc m phm cao cp hin nay s dng cc cht ng vn hoc i vn iu ha hot ng ca cc th th nhm t c mc ch iu tr. Mt cch tng qut, mi th th (receptor) c cht gn (ligand) tng ng. Thng thng cc th th nm trong nhn t bo c cht gn l lipid, cn th th trn mng t bo thng gn vi protid. Kt qu ca s gn receptor-ligand l mt lot cc phn ng ha hc xy ra lin quan n s sinh sn, bit ha, chuyn ha (kch thch/c ch tng hp protid/lipid/glucid) v.v Vi cng mt ligand, th th nhng m khc nhau c th cho hiu ng sinh l khc nhau, thm ch tri Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011 Page
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ngc nhau (v d: nhm thuc fibrate lm t bo gan gim bi tit triglycerides vo mu, nhng c th lm tng bi tit tuyn b nhn vo nang lng). Th th nhn: c im chung ca cc th th nhn ca t bo sng l lm t bo sng gim sinh sn m tng bit ha. Bng sau y m t c im sinh l (trn da) ca mt s th th nhn da v cc phn ph ca da (th th retinoids, th th vitamin D, th th PPAR v.v): Loi th th Tc dng Tng tng hp collagen (type I, III, VII) v glycoaminoglycans c ch thoi ging collagen Tng sinh mch mu (angiogenesis) lp b Tng phn chia, bit ha t bo thng b (in vivo) Tiu sng, lm mng lp sng Tng hot tnh transglutaminase, tng tng hp involucrin, filaggrin v.v (ch : khng ci thin lipid da) Thc y s lnh vt thng c ch s sinh sn, bit ha, bi tit ca t bo tuyn b nhn Khng vim c ch hot tnh tyrosinase Gim tng hp melanin c ch s chuyn melanosome (vo t bo sng) Gim phn bo (gim hot tnh men protein kinase D) Tng bit ha (tng hot tnh men phospholipase D1) Tng hot tnh tyrosinase Tng sn xut melanin Gim apoptosis Khng vim (gim IL-18, gim t l IL-1a/IL-1 receptor antagonist, gim IL-2, IL-12, INFa, TNFa) Phc hi hng ro da PPAR anpha PPAR (v PPAR) c nh hng khng ng k trn s bit ha t bo biu m, mc d trong mi trng nui cy t bo sng ca ngi, s b sung clofibrate hoc cht ng vn (agonist) khc ca PPAR lm tng s biu hin ca involucrin v transglutaminase, l nhng tc nhn cn thit cho s hnh thnh ca lp sng.
Th th retinoid
Th th vitamin D
Page
Thc y tin trnh phc hi hng ro da: tng tng hp involucrin, profilaggrinfilaggrin, loricrin v.v, tng tng
34
Th th PPAR (peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor) TRN DA c cc tnh cht tng qut sau y: 1. c ch phn bo (gim s lng t bo) 2. Kch thch bit ha (t bo nhanh chng trng thnh) 3. Tng tng hp cc cht (lipid, protid v.v)
Gim b dy thng b
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C th hn (nhng cha y ), PPARs c cc tc dng trn tng loi t bo nh sau: - T bo sng: c ch phn bo (ngoi tr trng hp vt thng): gim b dy thng b Kch thch bit ha: t bo nhanh chng ha sng Phc hi hng ro bo v da: tng tng hp protid (involucrin, profilaggrin filaggrin, loricrin v.v) v lipid (th Odland) - T bo tuyn b: Bit ha t bo tuyn b Tng bi tit tuyn b - T bo nang lng: pht trin nang lng - T bo sc t: c ch phn bo Bit ha t bo Tng hot tnh tyrosinase, tng tng hp melanin
hp th Odland-c-mng, tng tng hp lipid gian bo. Bit ha t bo tuyn b (giai on sau cng) gy cht t bo (apoptosis) to thnh nhn mn trng c (comedogenesis) Gim tc dng gy vim ca cc acid bo nh arachidonic acid v leucotriene B4 (LTB4 c cho l c lin quan n cc bnh l min dch d ng nh: vy nn, vim a khp dng thp, vim lot i trng ) Leucotriene
(+)
Gn vo PPAR
(+)
(-)
Gy vim
Gim bt tnh trng vim da (chm tip xc, chm th tng) Gim tc hi ca tia UVB: tng liu da ti thiu (minimal erythema dose) Gy sm da S lng PPAR gim i sau khi tip xc vi TNF, gim trong bnh vy nn, trong vim da d ng, gim sau khi tip xc tia UVB, tng trong vt thng da Ligands: NSAIDs; nhm fibrates (gemfibrozil, bezafibrate, fenofibrate, clofibrate); axit bo mch di (nht l cc acid bo khng no nhiu ni i) nh: palmitic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, leucotriene. PPAR beta hoc delta Bit ha t bo sng Thc y tin trnh lnh vt thng, ngn cn t bo sng cht-theo-chng trnh-do-TNF-gy-ra (TNF-induced apoptosis), duy tr s lng t bo sng cn sng quanh mp vt thng Bit ha t bo tuyn b (giai on sau), tng tng hp lipid tuyn b nhn (mnh nht trong cc PPARs) Pht trin nang lng S lng PPAR / gia tng sau khi tip xc vi interferon-, TNF (l nhng cht gy vim/hoi t), tng trong bnh vy nn, tng trong vt thng da, gim sau khi tip xc tia UVB. Ligands: Tetradecylthioacetic acid (gn vo PPAR /
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mnh nht); acid bo (prostaglandin PGD2, PGA1, PGA2, PGI1, acid linoleic, acid linolenic, acid palmitic, acid eicosapentaenoic abbr.EPA); fibrates (bezafibrate) PPAR gamma t lin h n s bit ha t bo sng Pht trin t bo tuyn b (giai on sm), tng tng hp lipid Gy sm da Gim trong bnh vy nn, vim da c a, gim sau khi tip xc tia UVB. Ligands: NSAIDs; thiazolidinediones (ciglitazone, troglitazone, rosiglitazone, pioglitazone, englitazone), acid bo (a.linoleic, a.linolenic, EPA), fibrates Th th mng: Trn mng t bo sng c nhiu th th: Integrin l mt loi glycoprotein xuyn mng, trong phn ni bo lin kt vi si actin (b xng t bo), cn phn ngoi bo ca n tr thnh mt thnh phn cu to nn mng y. Integrin c nhiu ligands, chng hn nh fibronectin, laminin, collagen IV v.v Trong fibronectin, laminin, collagen IV cng l nhng thnh phn cu to nn mng y. S hot ha integrin a ti: o Tng sinh t bo: Lm t bo sng sinh sn nhanh chng. Integrin thng hin din trn mng t bo sng lp y ca thng b, tc l lp t bo c chc nng sinh sn. (C Chandra Kumar. Signaling by integrin receptors. Oncogene (1998) 17, 1365-1373)
o
Ngn cn s cht t bo (apoptosis): Integrin to thnh nhng cu trc gi l focal adhesion v hemidesmosome (xem phn: cc hnh thc lin kt trong thng b). Nhng cu trc ny lin kt t bo sng vi mng y bn di. Nu cc lin kt ny mt i, t bo s t cht. (C Chandra Kumar. Signaling by integrin receptors. Oncogene
(1998) 17, 1365-1373)
Protease-activated
receptors
(PARs):
th
th
ca
cc
men
protease
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Protease-activated_receptor): o PAR-1, -3, -4: th th ca thrombine (thrombine receptor): Lm tng sinh t bo sng (CK Derian, AJ Eckardt and P Andrade-Gordon. Differential regulation of human keratinocyte
growth and differentiation by a novel family of protease-activated receptors. Cell Growth & Differentiation, Vol 8, Issue 7, 743-749)
o PAR-2: th th ca trypsin: c ch s sinh sn ca t bo sng (CK Derian, AJ Eckardt

and P Andrade-Gordon. Differential regulation of human keratinocyte growth and differentiation by a novel family of protease-activated receptors. Cell Growth & Differentiation, Vol 8, Issue 7, 743-749)
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Ion: Nng ion canxi cng c nh hng n s sinh sn v bit ha ca t bo sng. Khi nui cy t bo sng ngi ta quan st thy hin tng sau: Nng ion canxi thp (0.04mM) lm cho cc t bo sng ch sinh sn m khng bit ha, t bo nui cy c kiu hnh ging t bo y. Nng ion canxi cao (0.14mM), t bo sng ngng sinh sn nhng chuyn sang bit ha mnh, tng tng hp cc cht c trng cho qu trnh bit ha (ht keratohyalin, th Odland). Cytokines: Epidermal growth factor (EGF) l yu t lm tng sn thng b. Enzyme: Protein kinase C (PKC) lm tng s lng involucrine, filaggrin, transglutaminase. p dng trong sn xut: Phorbol 12-myristate 13-acetate hot ha PKC, rottlerin c ch PKC. Protease
B. Lp lipid gian bo: Xi mng

1. Cu to ca lp lipid gian bo da: Lipid chim khong 10% khi lng t v khong 30% khi lng kh ca lp sng. Cc phn t lipid gian bo hin din trong lp sng c ngun gc t cc th Odland c mng trong lp ht. Ti ranh gii lp ht v lp sng, th Odland c bi tit vo khong gian bo bng c ch xut bo. Ti y, cc phn t lipid tip tc c bin i di xc tc ca cc men chuyn ha lipid. Thnh phn lipid in hnh trong lp sng cha ch yu l cholesterol, ceramides (loi sphingolipid n gin nht), v cc axt bo t do vi t l khong 25:50:15 (theo phn trm trng lng), cn li khong 10% l cc cht bo khc. Bt c s thay i no v thnh phn, cu trc ca tng loi lipid cng dn n nhng ri lon da, i khi nghim trng. Cc ri lon ny c th lin quan n gene (vd: chm); c th do mi trng: dinh dng khng hp l (vd: thiu cc acid bo thit yu), s dng cht ty ra mnh v sinh c th (vd: anion surfactant), do kh hu (lnh qu, nng qu, hoc kh qu). Lp lipid da c tnh c trng v chng gn nh khng cha phospholipid (cu to phospholipid in hnh l: diglyceridephosphatebaz nit, phospholipid l thnh phn thng c tm thy trong mng sinh hc khc). Trong qu trnh bin i to ra cc cht bo ca lp sng, phospholipid (hin din trong th Odland) xem nh hon ton b bi b (t l phospholipid trong lp sng < 1%) v chuyn i thnh cc axit bo t do; tng t glucosyl ceramides (cn gi l cerebroside, cng c mt trong cc ht Odland) c chuyn i thnh ceramides; v sulfate cholesterol c chuyn thnh cholesterol t do. Lp lipid gian bo do t bo sng tng hp v bi tit vo khong gian bo quanh lp sng, n khc vi cht tit tuyn b nhn. Cht b nhn do t bo tuyn b tng hp, bi tit vo nang lng ri tro ln b mt da, ch khng nm trong khong gian bo. Thnh phn cht b nhn ch yu gm c triglycerides (ester ca ru glycerol v acid bo), wax esters (ester ca ru bo Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011 Page
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v acid bo), squalene (tin cht ca sterol/cholesterol), v acid bo t do (a s l palmitic acid, oleic acid v palmitoleic acid). Lipid gian bo c tc dng bo v da. Lipid tuyn b nhn cng bo v da, nhng cn c lin quan n mn trng c. Thnh phn lipid gian bo cc lp khc nhau ca thng b c minh ha trong bng sau: T l phn trm cc loi lipid (theo khi lng) trong cc lp ca thng b Loi lipid Phospholipid Sphingolipid Ceramides Cholesterol Acid bo t do Cht bo khc Lp y/gai 63 7 0 10 7 13 Lp ht 25 10 15 21 17 12 Lp sng 0 0 50 25 15 10
Sau y l phn m t c tnh tng loi lipid do t bo sng tng hp v bi tit: Phospholipid: Acid bo
Thng l baz cha nit
Glycerol
Acid phosphoric
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Sphingolipid: Sphingolipid: Lin kt amide gia ru sphingosine v acid bo Ru sphingosine: 18 cacbon, mt ni i (v tr cacbon s 4), mt nhm amin (v tr cacbon s 2), hai nhm hydroxyl (v tr cacbon s 1, s 3)
1 4 3 2
Cng thc cu to ca sphingolipid

Nu R l H (hydro) l phosphocholine l phn t ng (saccharide); bt c loi saccharide no l glucose hoc galactose l glucose (hoc galactose) c sulfate ha (glucose gn thm acid sulfuric) c cha t 03 phn t ng tr ln, trong c t nht mt phn t l acid sialic (dn xut N-neuraminic acid) Th sphingolipid c gi l Ceramide Sphingomyelin Glycosphingolipid (nhng thng gi tt l glycolipid) Cerebroside(s) Sulfatide(s) Ganglioside(s)
acetyl
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N-acetyl neuraminic acid (mt loi acid sialic thng gp nht)
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Ceramides: Trong s cc ceramide, ceramide-1 l thnh phn quan trng n nh lp lipid da. T l wt% cc loi ceramides nh sau: Ceramide-1: ~ 8% Ceramide-2: ~ 42% Ceramide-3, -4, -5, -8, -9: ~ 30% Ceramide-6, -7: ~ 20%
Ceramide-1 c ngun gc t Glyco-Sphingolipid A (Glyco-Sphingolipid A cn gi l AcylGlucosyl-Ceramide, tc c cng thc cu to l: acid bo hydroxy acid bo sphingosine glucose). Mc d Glucosyl-Ceramide A chim n 56 wt% cc loi Glyco-Sphingolipid, nhng Ceramide-1 ch chim 8 wt% cc loi Ceramides. Nguyn nhn l do phn ln Ceramide-1, sau khi c thnh lp, li b chuyn thnh -hydroxy-Ceramide (ri hydroxy-Ceramide li to lin kt cho (cross-link) vi glutamate trong phn t involucrin lm vng chc hn hng ro da). Vitamin C ng vai tr cho nhm OH to thnh OH-Ceramide.
Cc loi ceramide. Ta
C
Linoleic acid
sphingosine
ch ceramide-1, l loi ceramide c gn thm gc acid bo (gc acyl) vo cacbon cui cng (cacbon omega, C) ca acid bo-vn-c-sn-trnmi-phn-tceramide. Gc acid bo gn thm thng gp nht l acid linoleic (18C, 2 ni i). Gc acid bo c sn l loi -hydroxyacid bo (HO-R2COOH). Ni cch khc, ta c 2 phn t acid bo lin kt vi nhau: R1-COOH + HO-R2-COOH)
ceramide vi chui acyl t 16-18 nguyn t C). Chui hydrocacbon cng di, tnh k nc cng Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011
Page
s cc ceramide c chui acyl (gc acid bo) di, t 24-26 nguyn t C (ch c mt t l nh
42
Chiu di ca chui acid bo trong phn t ceramide cng nh hng n cu trc lipid da. a
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ln. Ceramide vi mch cacbon di s lm gim tnh thm ca lp lipid da vi mi trng bn ngoi, v cng ngn cn tnh trng mt nc qua da (gi m). Tuy nhin, cc nh sn xut m phm c kinh nghim thng ch tng hp cc ceramide vi mch acyl t 14-18 nguyn t C, mch acyl phi thng (khng phn nhnh) v bo ha. C nhiu l do cho vic ny: cc nghin cu ng hc phn t cho thy cc ceramide ngoi lai t c hiu qu cao nht vi m hnh va ni n, c bit l kh nng gi nc (c o bi dn in qua da). Tt nhin l cc ceramide c cu trc ngoi thng nh vy i hi k thut sn xut phc tp v chi ph cao. Cholesterol: Ngoi ceramide, lp lipid gian bo cn cha cholesterol cng rt quan trng duy tr s ton vn cu trc da. T l cholesterol vo khong 25% theo khi lng, bao gm cholesterol t do v cholesterol ester ha (ru cholesterol lin hp vi acid v c/acid bo hu c). Vai tr, t l tng loi cholesterol nh sau: Cholesterol t do (20 33 wt%) Vai tr: Bit ha t bo sng. Ngoi ra, c cholesterol v cholesterol sulfate u c vai tr lm gia tng mc khuch tn ca cc chui ceramide vo lp lipid da. Cholesteryl Sulfate Loi khc (0 7 wt%) (Cholesteryl Vai tr: Tng kt dnh t bo bng Oleate ) cch to ra cu ni cholesterol sulfate 0 13 wt% calcium. c ch men protease Cholesteryl ester: 0-20 wt%
Acid bo t do: Thnh phn chim khi lng ng hng th 3 trong lp lipid da l cc acid bo t do. Hu ht l acid bo bo ha, c chui hydrocacbon t 20-30 nguyn t cacbon. Trong C24:0 v C26:0 chim t l cao nht, nh c minh ha trong bng sau: T l mol:mol ca cc loi acid bo t do trong hng ro lipid lp sng da ngi C20:0 5 C21:0 0.5 C22:0 11 C23:0 5 C24:0 39 C25:0 10 C26:0 23 C27:0 3 C28:0 8 C29:0 1 C30:0 2 Cc acid bo ny gp phn ngn cn s t tp (tch pha) cng nh thc y s khuch tn ca cc loi ceramide. Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011
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2. S tng hp v bi tit lp lipid gian bo da: Mt s yu t nh hng n s tng hp v bi tit lp lipid da: Acid retinoids: Acid retinoid (dng thoa) c th lm bin i mt cch ng k t l cc loi lipid gian bo. C th nh sau: Phospholipid: tng t 3-4 ln Sphingolipid: gim 3 ln, ko theo s st gim ng k ceramide Ceramide-1: gim 9 ln Cholesterol cc loi: gim 2 ln Lanosterol (tin cht ca cholesterol): gim 6 ln Acid bo t do: gim 3 ln
Acid retinoid (dng thoa) em li hiu qu khng th chi ci trong iu tr mt s bnh da nh: mn trng c, sm da sau vim, lo ha da v.v Tuy nhin hiu qu ca retinoids khng th tch ri khi cc phn ng ph ngoi da, thng xy ra trong nhng tun u iu tr di dng gy kch ng, c trng bng nhng hng ban kh, hi au. Cc phn ng ph ny c l c lin quan n s thay i lp lipid bo v da, c bit l s suy gim ceramide-1. Trong lp sng da ca ngi, c 3 loi ceramide c cu trc khc thng. l cc loi: ceramide-1, -4, v -9. Cc ceramide ny cha mt lin kt ester gia acid linoleic v mt loi acid bo c bit: acid bo omega hydroxy, m chui hydrocacbon ca acid-bo--hydroxy ny th rt di (30-32 nguyn t Cacbon). Trong s cc loi ceramide-linoleate, th ceramide-1-linoleate c vai tr quan trng nht. S suy gim ceramide-1 c th gy ra phn ng vim da, lo ha da. Retinoids thng c s dng trong iu tr lo ha da, gip gim bt cc np nhn da. C l hiu qu lm tr ha da l do retinoids lm tng tng hp collagen, ch khng lin quan n ceramide-1-linoleate. Nhn chung retinoids vn em li li ch nhiu hn so vi nhng bt li m n c th gy ra, min l bnh nhn c t vn tt v hp tc tt. Acid linoleic: Thiu ht linoleic acid lm ceramide-linoleate b thay th bi ceramide-oleate, lm suy gim hng ro da. Vitamin C: Vitamin C, ngc li, c tc dng lm tng ceramides, c bit l ceramide-6 v -7, lm tng hiu qu hng ro bo v da. Vitamin C ng vai tr l cht cho nhm OH to thnh hydroxy-ceramide, l cht c th gn vi cc protein ca lp v sng. Vitamin E: Vitamin E th dng nh khng c tc dng g trn lp lipid da, mc d y l vitamin
Nicotinamide: Hiu qu rt tt: Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011
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tan tt trong cht bo.
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Lm tng nng ceramide t 4.1-5.5 ln ch sau 6 ngy Lm tng nng glucosyl ceramide ln gp 7 ln Lm tng hot tnh men serine palmitoyl transferase, mt loi enzyme c nng thp nhng li rt cn thit tng hp sphingolipid. Tng nng acid bo t do gp 2.3 ln Tng tng hp cholesterol gp 1.5 ln Khi phc lp lipid da, gim mt nc qua da (transepidermal water loss, TEWL)
Ion canxi: Nng calcium (ngoi bo) thp nht lp y v cao nht lp sng. Nng canxi nh hng ln s sinh sn v bit ha ca t bo sng. Cn s-thay-it-ngt nng canxi th nh hng ln s tng hp v bi tit lipid ca t bo sng. Nu lp sng b tn thng cp tnh nng canxi st gim t ngt Lp ht lp tc tng tng hp v bi tit th Odland khi phc hng ro da-lipid Nu lp sng b tn thng, nhng nng canxi c gi nguyn khng c hin tng tng bi tit th Odland, cng khng c s sa cha hng ro da. Nu lp sng khng b tn thng, nhng nng canxi st gim t ngt th Odland vn tng bi tit. Enzyme: Protein kinase C lm tng hot tnh men serin-palmitoyl-transferase v glucosylceramide-synthase. C hai enzyme ny lm tng tng hp ceramides Cytokines: IL-1 v IL-6 l ha cht gy vim, v lm tng tc sa cha hng ro da. Ngc li, tn thng da cng lm tng tng hp IL-1, IL-6 Receptors: Proteinase-activated receptor 2 (PAR-2) khng ch lm c ch s sinh sn t bo sng lp y, m cn lm c ch s phc hi hng ro da (CK Derian, AJ Eckardt and P Andrade-Gordon.
Differential regulation of human keratinocyte growth and differentiation by a novel family of proteaseactivated receptors. Cell Growth & Differentiation, Vol 8, Issue 7, 743-749). Khi da b tn thng, pH da
thay i t 5.5 n 7. pH trung tnh lm tng hot tnh men trypsin, mt loi serin protease (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trypsin). Serin protease hot ha PAR-2. PAR-2 c ch s lnh vt thng. Th th thrombine (ThrR): Mc d lm tng sinh t bo sng lp y, ThrR lm gim s tng hp transglutaminase v involucrine cc lp cao hn. (CK Derian, AJ Eckardt and P
family of protease-activated receptors. Cell Growth & Differentiation, Vol 8, Issue 7, 743-749)
Nitric oxide: NO lm c ch s khi phc hng ro da. Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011
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Mng y
L mng ngn cch gia biu m v m lin kt. Mng y c cu to bi hai lp. Lp trn tip xc vi thng b gi l lp y (basal lamina). Lp bn di tip xc vi b gi l lp li (reticular lamina, hoc lamina reticularis). Hai lp ny c kt ni vi nhau bi cc si fibrils. Basal lamina li c chia thnh hai lp: lp sng (lamina lucida) v lp c (lamina densa). Trong thnh phn cu to ch yu ca lamina lucida l cc glycoprotein, cn thnh phn cu to ch yu ca lamina densa l proteoglycan v collagen type IV. Cc thnh phn cu to ca mng y v trt t sp xp ca chng c minh ha nh sau:
Thng b (ngoi cng)
Mng y:
Basal Lamina
o
Lamina Lucida: cu to bi nhiu loi glycoprotein, nh:

-
Laminin Integrins Entactins (cn gi l nidogen-1) Dystroglycans Collagen type IV Perlecan: L mt loi proteoglycan. Proteoglycan l s kt hp gia protein v glyco-amino-glycans (GAGs). Loi GAG c trng ca perlecan l heparan sulfate.
Lamina Densa: cu to bi:

-
Attaching proteins (kt ni gia basal lamina v reticular lamina):

-
Anchoring fibrils (collagen type VII) Microfibrils (fibrillin) Fibronectin
Lamina Reticularis
-
M lin kt (bn di)
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Hemidesmosome
Focal contacts
Keratin 5, 14
Epidermis
BPAg-1 actin kindlin
vinculin CD 151 integrin integrin talin Collagen XIII
Lamina lucida
Laminin 5
Collagen XVII
Laminin 6 Laminin 5 nidogen
Lamina densa
Collagen VII Perlecan
Dermis
Anchoring fibril
Dermal fibril
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B v h b
Lp b
B nh: M lin kt tha i thng b ln to thnh cc nh Li mao mch nng st ranh gii b thng b. Nhiu t bo (nguyn bo si, t bo min dch), t si
B li: Nhiu si, t t bo
T bo lin kt
M hc: M lin kt Cht cn bn Nc, in gii Glyco-amino-glycan (GAGs), cn gi l mucopolysaccharides, vd: hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, heparan sulfate, dermatan sulfate v.v Cc GAGs c th kt hp vi protein gi l proteoglycan. Glyco protein, vd: fibronectin, laminin v.v
Si
Nguyn bo si / t bo si H thng n nhn thc bo: monocytes, i thc bo, lymphocytes, mastocytes
Si to keo. Ch yu l collagen I. Si li (reticulin). Reticulin c cu to ch yu t collagen III. Si n hi (elastin)
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H b: M di da
Cc phn ph ca da
Bn hy (tuyn m hi nhn): mt phn cc ngn ca t bo tr thnh cht tit, c bi tit vo phu nang lng. Tuyn m hi
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Nguyn vn (tuyn m hi nc): cht tit (m hi) c hnh thnh v bi tit lin tc theo kiu xut bo. Cht tit ln b mt da, khng bao gi vo nang lng.
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Tuyn b
Ch tit kiu ton hy: c t bo bin thnh cht tit, c bi tit vo nang lng.
Tuyn v
Tuyn ngoi tit kiu bn hy
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Lng
Mng
Mch mu
Thn kinh.
No ty Cm gic nng (au, nhit, s m) Si thn kinh Tiu th thn kinh (tiu th thn kinh = u tn thn kinh + m xung quanh = th th cm gic) Tiu th thn kinh trn. Tiu th thn kinh c bao. Vd: Phc hp Merkel Vd: Tiu th (gm t bo Merkel v Paccini/Golgi-Mazzoni, u tn cng thn kinh Meissner, Ruffini, Krause trn trong biu b) Giao cm Vn mch, bi tit (m hi)
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Ti liu tham kho:

1. Odland GF. Structure of the skin. In Physiology, Biochemistry and Molecular Biology of the Skin, 2nd ed., Goldsmith LA (Ed.). Oxford University Press, Oxford, 1991. 2. Bennett JC, Plum F (Eds.). Cecil Textbook of Medicine, 20th ed. W.B. Saunders Company, Philadelphia, 1996. 3. Montagne W, Kligman AM, Carlisle KS. Atlas of Normal Human Skin. Springer-Verlag, New York, 1992. 4. Nelson W, Sun TT. The 50- and 58-kilodalton keratin classes as molecular markers for stratified squamous epithelia: cell culture studies. J Cell Biol 97, 244251, 1983. 5. Eichner R, Bonitz P, Sun TT. Classification of epidermal keratins according to their immunoreactivity, isoelectric point and mode of expression. J Cell Biol 98, 13881396, 1998. 6. Fuchs E, Green H. Changes in keratin gene expression during terminal differentiation of the keratinocyte. Cell 19, 10331042, 1980. 7. Hitomi K. Transglutamases in skin epidermis. Eur J Dermatol 15, 313319, 2005. 8. Dale B, Reising K. Proteins of keratohyalin. In Biochemistry and Molecular Biology of the Skin, Goldsmith LA (Ed.). Oxford University Press, New York, 1991, chap. 4. 9. Rawlings AV, Scott IR, Harding CR, et al. Stratum corneum moisturization at the molecular level. J Invest Dermatol 103, 731740, 1994. 10. Schaefer HS (Ed.). Skin Barrier: Principles of Percutaneous Absorption, 1st ed. Karger AG, Basel, 1996. 11. Uitto J, Oikarinen A, Thody AJ. Mechanical and physical functions of the skin. In Scientific Basis of Dermatology. A Physiological Approach, Thody AJ, Friedman PS (Eds.). Churchill Livingstone, London, 1986. 12. Komuves LG, Hanley K, Lefebvre AM, Man MQ, Ng DC, Bikle DD, Williams ML, Elias PM, Auwerx J, Feingold KR. Stimulation of PPARalpha promotes epidermal keratinocyte differentiation in vivo. J Invest Dermatol 115, 353360, 2000. 13. Friedmann PS, Cooper HL, Healy E. Peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors and their relevance to dermatology. Acta Dermatol Venereol 85, 194202, 2005. 14. Kuenzli S, Saurat JH. Peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors in cutaneous biology. Br J Dermatol 149, 229 236, 2003. 15. Elias PM, Ahn SK, Denda M, Brown BE, Crumrine D, Kimutai LK, Komuves L, Lee SH, Feingold KR. Modulations in epidermal calcium regulate the expression of differentiation-specific markers. J Invest Dermatol 119, 11281136, 2002. 16. Bikle DD, Oda, Y, Xie Z. Calcium and 1,25(OH)2D: interacting drivers of epidermal differentiation. J Steroid Biochem Mol Biol 89/90, 355360, 2004.
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17. Zouboulis C. Retinoids: which dermatological indications will benefit in the near future? Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol 14, 303315, 2001. 18. Lefebvre P, Martin PJ, Flajollet S, Dedieu S, Billaut X, Lefebvre B. Transcriptional activities of retinoic acid receptors. Vitam Horm 70, 199264, 2005. 19. Kang S.The mechanism of action of topical retinoids. Cutis 75 (2 Suppl), 1013, 2005. 20. Kligman A. Current status of topical tretinoin in the treatment of photoaged skin. Drugs Aging 2, 713, 1992. 21. Chivot M. Retinoid therapy for acne. A comparative review. Am J Clin Dermatol 6, 1319, 2005. 22. Bikowski J. Mechanisms of the comedolytic and anti-inflammatory properties of topical retinoids. J Drugs Dermatol 4, 4147, 2005. 23. Hnigsmann H, Thody AJ. Protection against ultraviolet radiation. In Scientific Basis of Dermatology. A Physiological Approach, Thody AJ, Friedman PS (Eds.). Churchill Livingstone, London, 1986. 24. Abraham W. Surfactant effects on skin barrier. In Surfactants in Cosmetics, Rieger M, Rhein L (Eds.). Marcel Dekker, New York, 1997, chap. 20. 25. Wertz P. Epidermal lipids. Semin Dermatol 11, 106113, 1992. 26. Wertz PW, Downing ST. Ceramides of pig epidermis: structure determination. J Lipid Res 24, 759765, 1983. 27. Greene SC, Stuart ME, Downing DT. Anatomical variation in the amount and composition of human skin surface lipids. J Invest Dermatol 54, 240247, 1970. 28. Downing D. Variability on the chemical composition of human skin surface lipid. J Invest Dermatol 53, 322327, 1969. 29. Nicolaidesa D, Wells A. On the biogenesis of free fatty acids in skin surface fat. J Invest Dermatol 29, 423433, 1957. 30. Shalita A. Genesis of free fatty acids. J Invest Dermatol 62, 332335, 1974. 31. Elias PM. Epidermal lipids, barrier function and desquamation. J Invest Dermatol 80, 44s49s, 1983. 32. Werz P, Swartzendruber DS, Madison KD, Downing D. Composition and morphology of epidermal cyst lipids. J Invest Dermatol 89, 419425, 1987. 33. Elias PM, Feingold K. Lipid related barrier and gradients in the epidermis. Ann NY Acad Sci 548, 413, 1988. 34. Michaels AS, Chandrasekaran SK, Shaw JE, Drug permeation through human skin: Theory and invitro experimental measurement. J Am Inst Chem Eng 21, 985996, 1975. 35. Harris IR, Farrell AM, Holleran WM, Jackson S, Grunfield C, Elias PM, Feingold KR. Parallel regulation of sterol regulatory element binding protein-2 and the enzymes of cholesterol and fatty acid synthesis but not ceramide synthesis in cultured human keratinocytes and murine epidermis. J Lipid Res 39, 412422, 1998.
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36. Melton JL, Werz PW, Swartzendruber DC, and Downing D. Effects of essential fatty acid deficiency on epidermal o-acylsphingolipids and TEWL in young pigs. Biochim Biophys Acta 921, 191197, 1987. 37. Nicollier M, Massengo T, Remy-Martin JP, Laurent R, Adessi GL. Free fatty acids and fatty acids of triacylglycerols in normal and hyperkeratotic human stratum corneum. J Invest Dermatol 87, 6871, 1986. 38. Werz P, Swartzendruber DS, Madison KD, Downing D. Composition and morphology of epidermal cyst lipids. J Invest Dermatol 89, 419425, 1987. 39. Harris IR, Farrell AM, Grunfield C, Holleran WM, Elias P, Feingold KR. Permeability barrier disruption coordinately regulates mRNA levels for key enzymes of cholesterol, fatty acid, and ceramide synthesis in the epidermis. J Invest Dermatol 109, 783787, 1997. 40. Tanno O, Ota Y, Kitamura N, Katsube T, Inoue S. Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. Dermatology 143: 524531, 2000. 41. Smith WP, Christensen MS, Nacht S, Gans EH. Effect of lipids on the aggregation and permeability of human stratum corneum. J Invest Dermatol 78, 711, 1982. 42. Brysk MM, Rajaraman I, Penn P, Barlowe E. Cohesive properties of terminally differentiated keratinocytes. Exp Cell Biol 57, 6066, 1989. 43. Imokawa G, Akaski S, Hattori M, Yoshizuka N. Selective recovery of deranged waterholding properties by stratum corneum lipids. J Invest Dermatol 87, 758761, 1986. 44. Grubauer G, Feingold KR, Harris RM, Elias PM. Lipid content and lipid type as determinants of the epidermal permeability barrier. J Lipid Res 30, 8996, 1989. 45. Imokawa G, Akasaki S, Kawamata A, Yano S, Takaishi N. Water retaining function in the stratum corneum and its recovery properties by synthetic ceramides. J Soc Cosmet Chem 40, 273285, 1989. 46. Friberg SE, Osborne DW. Small angle x-ray diffraction patterns of stratum corneum and a model structure for its lipid. J Dispersion Sci Technol 6, 485495, 1985. 47. Friberg SE, Suhaimi H, Goldsmith LB, Rhein LD. Stratum corneum lipids in a model structure. J Dispersion Sci Technol 9, 371389, 1988. 48. Osborne DW, Friberg SE. Role of stratum corneum lipids as a moisture retaining agent. J Dispersion Sci Technol 7, 753765, 1987. 49. Friberg SE, Kayali I, Rhein L, Hill R. A model for stratum corneum lipids and some implications. Cosmet Toiletries 102, 135140, 1987. 50. White SH, Mirejovsky D, King GI. Structure of lamellar lipid domains and corneocyte envelopes of murine stratum corneum. An x-ray diffraction study. Biochemistry 27, 37253732, 1988. 51. Imokawa G, Hattori M. A possible function of structural lipids in the waterretaining properties of the stratum corneum. J Invest Dermatol 84, 282284, 1985.
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52. Kayali I, Suhery T, Friberg SE, Simion FA, Rhein LD. Lyotropic liquid crystals and the structural lipids of the stratum corneum. J Pharm Sci 80, 428431, 1991. 53. Friberg SE, Kayali I, Beckerman W, Rhein LD, Simion FA. Water permeation of reaggregated stratum corneum with model lipid. J Invest Dermatol 94, 377380, 1990. 54. Friberg SE, Kayali I. Water evaporation rates from model stratum corneum lipids. J Pharm Sci 78, 639643, 1989. 55. Abraham W, Downing DT. Deuterium NMR investigation of polymorphism in stratum corneum lipids. Biochim Biophys Acta 1068, 189194, 1991. 56. Bouwstra JA, DeVries MA, Gooris GS, Bras W, Brusse J, Ponec M. Thermodynamic and structural aspects of skin barrier. J Controlled Release 15, 209220, 1991. 57. Hou SY, Rehfeld SJ, Plachy WZ. X-ray diffraction and paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy of mammalian stratum corneum lipid domains. Adv Lipid Res 24, 141171, 1991. 58. Bouwstra J, Pilgram G, Gooris G, Koerten H, Ponec M. New aspects of the skin barrier organization. Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol 14 (Suppl 1), 5262, 2001. 59. Bouwstra JA, Gooris GS, Bras W, Downing DT. Lipid organization in pig stratum corneum. J Lipid Res 36, 685 695, 1995. 60. Bouwstra JA, Gooris GS, van der Spek JA, Bras W. Structural investigations of human stratum corneum by small angle x-ray scattering. J Invest Dermatol 97, 10051013, 1991. 61. Bouwstra JA, Gooris GS, van der Spek JA, Lavrijsen S, Bras W. The lipid and protein structure of mouse stratum corneum: a wide and small angle diffraction study. Biochim Biophys Acta 1212, 183192, 1994. 62. Pilgram SK, van Pelt AM, Spies JA, Bouwstra JA, Koerten HK. Cryoelectron diffraction as a tool to study local variations in the lipid organization of human stratum corneum. J Microsc 189, 7178, 1998. 63. Bouwstra JA, Gooris GS, Salomons - de Vries MA, van der Spek JA, Bras W. Structure of Human stratum corneum as a function of temperature and hydration: a wide angle x-ray diffraction study. Int J Pharm 84, 205216, 1992. 64. Garson J, Doucet J, Leveque J, Tsoucaris G. Oriented structure in human stratum corneum revealed by x-ray diffraction. J Invest Dermatol 96, 4350, 1991. 65. Thewalt J, Kitson N, Araujo C, MacKay A, Bloom M. Models of stratum corneum intercellular membranes: the sphingolipid headgroups as the determiner of phase behavior in mixed lipid dispersions. Biochem Biophys Res Commun 188, 12471252, 1992. 66. Kitson N, Thewalt J, Lafteur M, Bloom M. A model membrane approach to the epithelial permeability barrier. Biochemistry 33, 67076715, 1994. 67. Pilgram GSK, Engelsma AM, Oostergetel GT, Koerten HK, Bouwstra JA. Study of the lipid organization of stratum corneum lipid models by cryoelectron diffraction. J Lipid Res 39, 16691676, 1998.
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68. Pilgram GS, Engelsma-van Pelt AM, Bouwstra JA, Koerten HK. Electron diffraction provides new information on human stratum corneum lipid organization studied in relation to depth and temperature. J Invest Dermatol 113, 403409, 1999. 69. Moore DJ, Rerek ME, Mendelsohn R. Role of ceramide 2 and 5 in the structure of the stratum corneum lipid barrier. Int J Cosmet Sci 21, 353368, 1999. 70. Moore DJ, Rerek ME, Mendelsohn R. Lipid domains and orthorhombic phases in model stratum: evidence from Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy studies. Biochem Biophys Res Commun 231, 797801, 1997. 71. Bouwstra JA, Cheng K, Gooris GS, Weerheim A, Ponec M. The role of ceramides 1 and 2 in the stratum corneum lipid organization. Biochim Biophys Acta 1300, 177186, 1996. 72. Forslind B. A domain mosaic model of the skin barrier. Acta Dermatol Venereol 74, 16, 1994. 73. Froebe C, Simion FA, Ohlmeyer H, Rhein LD, Mattai J, Cagan RH, Friberg S. Prevention of stratum corneum lipid phase transitions in-vitro by glycerol: an alternate mechanism for skin moisturization. J Soc Cosmet Chem 41, 5165, 1990. 74. Mattai J, Froebe CL, Rhein LD, Simion FA, Ohlmeyer H, Su D. Prevention of model stratum corneum lipid phase transitions in vitro by cosmetic additives: differential scanning calorimetry, optical microscopy, and water evaporation studies. J Soc Cosmet Chem 44, 89100, 1993. 75. Van Duzee BF. Thermal analysis of human stratum corneum. J Invest Dermatol 65, 404408, 1975. 76. Golden GM, Guzek DB, Harris RR, McKie JE, Potts RO. Lipid thermotropic transitions in human stratum corneum. J Invest Dermatol 86, 255259, 1986. 77. Golden GM, Guzek DB, Kennedy AH, McKie JE, Potts RO. Stratum corneum lipid phase transitions and water barrier properties. Biochemistry 26, 23822388, 1987. 78. Golden GM, McKie JE, Potts RO. Role of stratum corneum lipid fluidity in transdermal drug flux. J Pharm Sci 76, 2528, 1987. 79. Highley DR, Savoyka VO, ONeill JJ, Ward JB. A stereomicroscopic method for the determination of moisturizing efficacy in humans. J Soc Cosmet Chem 27, 351363, 1976. 80. Potts RO, Francoeur ML. Lipid biophysics of water loss through the skin. Proc Natl Acad Sci USA 87, 38713873, 1990. 81. Tanaka T, Sakanashi T, Kaneko N, Ogura R. Spin labeling study on membrane fluidity of epidermal cell (cow snout epidermis). J Invest Dermatol 87, 745747, 1986. 82. Nicollier M, Massengo T, Martin J, Laurent R, Adessi G. Free fatty acids and fatty acids of triacylglycerols in normal and hyperkeratotic human stratum corneum. J Invest Dermatol 87, 6871, 1986. 83. Lavrijsen AP, Bouwstra JA, Gooris GS, Weerheim A, Boddie HE, Ponec M. Reduced skin barrier function parallels abnormal stratum corneum lipid organization in patients with lamellar ichthyosis. J Invest Dermatol 105, 619624, 1995.
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84. Rehfeld SJ, Plachy WZ, Williams ML, Elias P. Calorimetric and electron spin resonance examination of lipid phase transitions in human stratum corneum: molecular basis for normal cohesion and abnormal desquamation in recessive X-linked ichthyosis, J Invest Dermatol 91, 499505, 1988. 85. Mao-Quing M, Brown BE, Wu-Pong S, Feingold K, Elias PM. Exogenous nonphysiologic vs. physiologic lipids. Arch Dermatol 131, 809816, 1995. 86. Yang L, Mao-Kang M, Taljebini M, Elias P, Feingold KR. Topical stratum corneum lipids accelerate barrier repair after tape stripping, solvent treatment, and some but not all types of detergent treatments. Br J Dermatol 133, 679 685, 1995. 87. http://www.wikipedia.org/ 88. http:// http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/
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PHN HAI
TNG QUAN V M PHM ALEURON
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ALEURON CLEANSER
Tn sn phm: Aleuron Cleanser: Sa ra mt lm sch da. Cng dng: Ra sch da m khng gy kch ng (dnh cho da nhy cm, d b d ng khi s dng sa ra mt thng ). Lm mt, mn, du da. Kim sot da nhn, mn trng c, so thm, so r, nm, tn nhang, i mi, da lo ha, np nhn da. Gi m cho da kh. Tr ha da. Thnh phn: Aqua, Glycerin, Sodium lauryl sulfate, Sodium laureth sulfate, Propylene glycol, Dimethicone, Carbomer, Cocamidopropyl betaine, Salicylic acid, Simethicone, Cetearyl alcohol, Cetyl alcohol, Calophyllum inophyllum seed oil, Cocos nucifera oil, Triethanolamine, Sodium cocoyl isethionate, Copper sulfate, Zinc gluconate, Ferrous sulfate, Triclosan, Propylparaben, BHT, Methylparaben, Camellia Sinensis Catechins, Hydrolyzed cucumber fruit, Avena Sativa Leaf Extract, Citrus Grandis Seed Extract, Rosa extract. C ch tc dng: Sa ra mt Aleuron Cleanser c bo ch theo cng ngh hin i nht ca M vi cng thc u vit m cc bc s da liu hng u thng xuyn s dng. Aleuron Cleanser ly i cht cn b d tha trn gng mt bao gm cht b nhn, vi khun, bi bn, phn/kem trang im, mnh vn t bo m khng lm tn hi hng ro lipid bo v da, v khng gy d ng. Aleuron Cleanser s dng Sodium 2-hydroxyethane cofa sulfonate l cht lm sch cao cp th h mi, ht sc m du, c th lu li trn da m khng gy d ng. Bn cnh , chit xut yn mch cng c tc dng gi m tt cho da. Sodium 2-hydroxyethane cofa sulfonate (SCI) l cht hot ng b mt (surfactant) quan trng trong cc sn phm lm sch du nh. Cc th nghim in vitro v in vivo chng minh rng SCI rt du nh v t gy tn hi cho hng ro bo v da hn l x phng v cc anion surfactant khc nh SLES, SLS, SLAS, SDS v.v... Cc ht mixen SDS kch thc nh trong mi trng nc tip xc vi da thng qua cc khe h trong lp sng (hng ro lipid-da khng phi lc no cng hon ho, i khi n c nhng khe h nh bn knh khong 29 5 ), v kt qu l, cc mixen SDS c Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011
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th xm nhp, ly i lp lipid thit yu ca lp sng v gy ri lon hng ro da. Nhng nghin cu in vitro chng minh rng ht mixen SCI c bn knh khong 33,5 1 ln khng th/t xm nhp hng ro da-lipid, nn ch ra sch cht bn trn b mt da m thi, khng xm nhp su hn. Aleuron Cleanser cn c th loi b hu hiu cc triu chng ca mn trng c nh tc dng dit tp khun v vim nang lng (cocamidopropyl betaine, chit xut du m u, triclosan, chit xut tr xanh), chng hin tng tng tit b nhn (Copper sulfate, Zinc gluconate, Ferrous sulfate), c ch s sng ha phu nang lng (Salicylic acid, Citrus Grandis Seed Extract), ngn to nhn mn. Aleuron Cleanser cng c tc dng trn hin tng sm da sau vim, nm, tn nhang v.v gip ln da trng hng rng r. H dng cht (dch chit da leo thy phn, chit xut yn mch, tinh cht hoa hng) ca Aleuron Cleanser nui dng su t bn di lp da gip ngn nga lo ha, chng li s hnh thnh cc np nhn, tr ha ln da. Aleuron Cleanser cha thnh phn dit khun ph rng bao gm chit xut t du thc vt v tri cy tho mc. Cc thnh phn ny thng cha saccharides, cht x, cc cht dinh dng, vitamin v khong cht. Tri cy cng cha cc hp cht phenolic (v d, flavonoids), c bit n nh l nhng thnh phn c th ngn nga v iu tr mt s bnh nht nh. Flavonoids cng hot ng nh cht chng oxy ha trung ha gc t do.
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ALEURON SKIN-CORRECTION
Tn sn phm v chc nng: Aleuron Skin-Correction: Lm m so i tng s dng: Sn phm ph hp s dng cho nhng ngi b so lm, so co tht, so gin (striae, rn da), k c so tht bi vi mi phng php iu tr trc . Thnh phn: Aqua, Hydrogenated castor oil, Glycerin, Salicylic acid, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed oil, Dimethicone, Propylene glycol, Retinyl acetate, Rutin, Cocos nucifera oil, Collagen, Biotin, Panthenol, Caffeine, Zinc Laurate, Simethicone, Stearic acid, Cetearyl alcohol, Cetyl alcohol, Soybean Glycerides, Ascorbic acid, Ascorbic acid polypeptide, Hydrogenated lecithin, Triethanolamine, Lycopene, Tocopheryl acetate, Glycosaminoglycans, Hyaluronic acid, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Propylparaben, BHT, Methylparaben, Guaiazulene, Bismuth citrate, Wheat germ glycerides, Centella Asiatica Extract, Cucumis Melo Juice, Bioflavonoids C ch tc dng: Vt so l vng x ha (fibrosis) thay th cho da bnh thng sau khi b thng. Ngoi tr cc tn thng rt nh, mi vt thng u li so mt mc no , nht l khi vt thng vt qu lp mng y ca biu b. M so c cu to bi nhng si protein (collagen) ging nh nhng si protein m bnh thng m n thay th, nhng thay v cc si collagen ny sp xp an xen mt cch ngu nhin nh nhng si collagen c tm thy trong cc m bnh thng, collagen ca m so lin kt theo mt trt t xc nh v thng c mt dy c hn. Ngoi ra trong m so cn c tnh trng tm nhun cc t bo co tht (c bit ha t nguyn bo si) gy co ko m so. Aleuron Skin-Correction c bo ch nhm mc ch bnh thng ha qu trnh tng hp collagen cng nh gim mc bit ha ca nguyn bo si, t lm gim bt tnh trng so da. Khi chng ta b thng, nguyn bo si ca lp b xm nhp vo vt thng v bt u tit ra collagen ng vt thng cng nhanh cng tt. Cht cn bn ti m lin kt ca vt thng ban u cn mm v cha nhiu yu t tng trng. Cc nguyn bo si "b" xung quanh vt thng, bi tit v t chc li cc si. Vng m b tn thng c pht trin cng hn, v mt Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011 Page
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thi im nht nh, cc nguyn bo si ngng di chuyn v bin i thnh cc t bo co tht mnh m, vi mnh vo cht cn bn v ko cc cnh ca vt thng li vi nhau. Cc nghin cu khoa hc gn y cho thy ln u tin mt c ch c hc c coi l rt quan trng a nguyn bo si ang di chuyn bit ha thnh t bo si co tht. lm c iu ny, cc nguyn bo si phi tip cn c vi mt loi yu t tng trng ang n mnh trong cht cn bn vng gian bo. Loi yu t tng trng ny, mt khi c gii phng, c tc dng kch thch nguyn bo si tng hp protein c trng ca si c trn (protein co tht). Trc y cc nh khoa hc tin rng nguyn bo si tip cn c loi yu t tng trng ny l nh n tiu ha cc cht cn bn. Nhng cc th nghim gn y cho thy dng nh nguyn bo si lm c iu ny nh vo c ch c hc thun ty. Nhng th nghim nui cy t bo trong cc cht cn bn vi cng khc nhau cho thy: khi cht cn bn t c mt cng nht nh no , lc to ra do s di ng ca t bo lm v cht cn bn, gii phng yu t tng trng ang b bao bc trong , nh th ly vin ko ra khi lp v ca n. Giai on tip theo, sau khi c hot ha bi yu t tng trng, nguyn bo si bt u bc l cc si protein co tht, gn cht hn vo cht cn bn, v co ko. Trong qu trnh , nguyn bo si bi tit nhiu yu t tng trng hn, v yu t ny, n lt n li kch thch cc nguyn bo si khc bit ha tr thnh t bo si co tht. Ni tm li, c ch c hc m bo rng s co tht ch xy ra khi cht cn bn sn sng. Aleuron Skin-Crrection lm cho cht cn bn khng bao gi cng gii phng qu nhiu yu t tng trng n mc gy so. Qu trnh trn gip tin trnh lnh vt thng xy ra nhanh chng, nhng nu khng c kim sot, c th a n s to lp m x thi qu. Ti mt s c quan nh tim, phi, gan, thn, sau khi b chn thng, cc nguyn bo si tch cc qu ng c th lin tc to ra cc si x, lm suy chc nng ca cc c quan , c th dn n t vong
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Nguyn bo si bi tit v sp xp cc si collagen cng vi yu t tng trng to thnh mu xanh ngc. Cc si co tht bn trong t bo c mu . Nhn t bo bt mu vng.
Trong giai on di chuyn, nguyn bo si (gc trn, bn tri) c nhng si co tht mnh (mu ) gn vo cht gian bo bi nhng im gn nh (mu xanh l). Khi cht gian bo cng li, nguyn bo si bi tit yu t tng trng v chuyn thnh t bo si co tht. Mc co tht ca t bo si tng ln khi cc si co tht kt hp vi cc protein c trn (mu xanh dng) to thnh si co tht c dy khc thng (mu tm), tn cng bng nhng im gn khng l (mu xanh l). Lu rng c hai t bo c chp phng i nh nhau.
Cc thnh phn c s dng trong Aleuron Skin-CorrectionTM iu tr cc m so bao gm t benzopyrone. Chng c tm thy trong l, hoa qu, ht, thn cy, hoc hoa ca tt c cc thc vt c mch. Chit xut t qu da li l mt ngun ni bt ca flavonoids. Trung bnh, cc ch Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011
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nht mt flavonoid. Flavonoids l cc hp cht hu c nh c mt cu trc phenyl
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n ung phng Ty hng ngy c khong mt gram hn hp cht flavonoid. V d v cc flavonoid bao gm, nhng khng gii hn, flavonones, flavanol, anthocyanidins, proanthocyanidins, procyanidolic oligomers, biflavans, polyphenol (Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract), rutinosides, hydroxyethylrutinosides, v leucoanthocyanins. Cht flavonoid thch hp s dng trong Aleuron Skin-CorrectionTM bao gm nhng cht khng to ra tc dng ph ng k khi dng ti ch cho bnh nhn liu iu tr, v khng phn ng vi bt k thnh phn no khc c mt trong sn phm, ni cch khc, khng gy ra mt s mt mt ng k hot tnh ca mt hoc nhiu hp cht trong sn phm. Flavonoid u tin thu c t cc ngun t nhin. Tuy nhin, cc dn xut ca cc hp cht nh vy vn c th thch hp s dng. S la chn loi flavonoid(s) c s dng trong sn phm c xc nh bi nhiu yu t nh c tnh ca flavonoids, kh dng sinh hc, ha tan, khuch tn, kh nng thm thu v.v Cc loi flavonoids thch hp s dng trong m phm cao cp Aleuron SkinCorrectionTM cn phi c kh nng chng oxy ha mnh, bao gm: (-)-epigallocatechin; (-)epigallocatechin-gallate; 1,2,3,6-tetra-o-gallyol--d-glucose; 2-o-acetylacetoside; 3,3,4-tri-omethyl-ellagic acid; 6,3,4-trihydroxy-5,7,8-trimethoxyflavone; 6-hydroxy-luteolin; 6hydroxykaempferol-3,6-dimethyl ether; 7-o-acetyl-8-epi-loganic acid; acacetin; acetoside; acetyl trisulfate quercetin; amentoflavone; apigenin; apiin; astragalin; avicularin; axillarin; baicalein; brazilin; cosmosiin; brevifolin carboxylic chrysoeriol; acid; caryophyllene; catechin; chrysin; chrysin-5,7dihydroxyflavone; chrysosplenol; cyanidin; chrysosplenoside-a; dihydroquercetin; chrysosplenoside-d;
-cadinene;
curcumin;
dimethylmussaenoside;
diacerylcirsimaritin; diosmin; diosmetin; dosmetin; ellagic acid; ebinin; epicatechin; ethyl brevifolin carboxylate; flavocannibiside; flavosativaside; galangin; gallic acid; genistein; ginkgo flavone glycosides; ginkgo heterosides; gossypetin; gossypetin-8-glucoside; haematoxylin; hesperidine; hispiduloside; hyperin; indole; iridine; isoliquiritigenin; isoliquiritin; isoquercitrin; jionoside; juglanin; kaempferol; kaempferol-3-rhamnoside; kaempferol-3-neohesperidoside; kolaviron; licuraside; linariin; linarin; lonicerin; luteolin; luteolin-7-glucoside; luteolin-7glucoronide; macrocarpal-a; macrocarpal-b; macrocarpal-d; macrocarpal-g; maniflavone; morin; methyl scutellarein; monoHER, diHER, triHER, tetraHER, myricetin; naringenin; naringin; nelumboside; nepetin; nepetrin; nerolidol; oligomeric proanthocyanidins; oxyayanina; pectolinarigenin; pectolinarin; pelargonidin; phloretin, phloridzin, polyphenols, including green tea polyphenols; quercetagetin; quercetin; quercimertrin; quercitrin; quercitryl-2 acetate; reynoutrin; rhamnetin; rhoifolin; rutin; scutellarein; sideritoflavone; silibin; silydianin; silychristine; silymarin; sophoricoside; sorbarin; spiraeoside; taxufolin; trifolin; vitexin; v wogonin, v cc mui hoc dn xut ca cc cht ny. Cc loi flavonoid sau y c s dng nng tng i cao do th hin c tnh chng oxy ha tt, kt hp vi c tnh tng i thp: quercetin, quercitrin, dihydrate myricetin quercetin, rutin, kaempferol v myrecetrin. Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011
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S lng flavonoid trong Aleuron Skin-CorrectionTM cung cp khong 100 n 150 mg / ngy cho bnh nhn (thoa 1-2 ln/ngy). Liu ti u hng ngy c th khc nhau ty thuc vo loi flavonoid hoc hn hp cc flavonoid. Cc hp cht khc cng c th c trong thnh phn ca Aleuron Skin-CorrectionTM cung cp thm cc li ch: Chit xut t tr xanh (loi giu catechin v polyphenols), Vitamin A, Vitamin E, Hydrogenated castor oil, Glycerin, Salicylic acid, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed oil, Dimethicone, Propylene glycol, Rutin, Cocos nucifera oil, Collagen, Biotin, Panthenol, Caffeine, Zinc Laurate, Simethicone, Stearic acid, Soybean Glycerides, Ascorbic acid, Ascorbic acid polypeptide, Hydrogenated lecithin, Lycopene, Glycosaminoglycans, Hyaluronic acid, BHT, Guaiazulene, Bismuth citrate, Wheat germ glycerides, Centella Asiatica Extract (rau m), Cucumis Melo Juice. Cc cht ny c chng minh l c kh nng ti to m ht v lm m cc vt so. C ch tc dng ca cc cht ny c th lin quan n: (i) c ch PDGF (yu t tng trng tiu cu), (ii) tng hot tnh interleukin-10, (iii) gim hot tnh TGF-b1, TGF-b2, tng hot tnh TGF-b3 (TGF: transforming growth factor)
(-)
Aleuron Skin-Correction
Ti liu tham kho:

1. Kumar, V., Abbas, A. K., Fausto, N., Kumar, V., Abbas, A. K., Fausto, N. (2005) Tissue renewal and repair: regeneration, healing, and fibrosis. In Robbins and Cotran: Pathological Basis of Disease, vol. 7, Philadelphai, PA, USA, Elsevier Saunders, 87118.
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2. Chettibi, S., Ferguson, M. W., Gallin, J. I., Snyderman, R. (1999) Wound repair: an overview. In Inflammation: Basic Principles and Clinical Correlates,vol. 3, Philadelphia, PA, USA, Lippincott, Williams and Wilkins,865881. 3. Crouch, E. (1990) Pathobiology of pulmonary fibrosis. Am. J. Physiol.259, L159L184. 4. Bucala, R., Spiegel, L. A., Chesney, J., Hogan, M., Cerami, A. (1994) Circulating fibrocytes define a new leukocyte subpopulation that mediates tissue repair. Mol. Med. 1, 7181. 5. Abe, R., Donnelly, S. C., Peng, T., Bucala, R., Metz, C. N. (2001) Peripheral blood fibrocytes: differentiation pathway and migration to wound sites. J. Immunol. 166, 75567562. 6. Quan, T. E., Cowper, S., Wu, S. P., Bockenstedt, L. K., Bucala, R. (2004) Circulating fibrocytes: collagen-secreting cells of the peripheral blood. Int. J. Biochem. Cell Biol. 36, 598606. 7. Gomperts, B. N., Strieter, R. M. (2007) Fibrocytes in lung disease. J. Leukoc. Biol. 82, 449456. 8. Bellini, A., Mattoli, S. (2007) The role of the fibrocyte, a bone marrowderived mesenchymal progenitor, in reactive and reparative fibroses. Lab. Invest. 87, 858870. 9. Wang, J. F., Jiao, H., Stewart, T. L., Shankowsky, H. A., Scott, P. G., Tredget, E. E. (2007) Fibrocytes from burn patients regulate the activities of fibroblasts. Wound Repair Regen. 15, 113121. 10. Yang, L., Scott, P. G., Giuffre, J., Shankowsky, H. A., Ghahary, A., Tredget, E. E. (2002) Peripheral blood fibrocytes from burn patients: identification and quantification of fibrocytes in adherent cells cultured from peripheral blood mononuclear cells. Lab. Invest. 82, 11831192. 11. Pilling, D., Buckley, C. D., Salmon, M., Gomer, R. H. (2003) Inhibition of fibrocyte differentiation by serum amyloid P. J. Immunol. 171, 55375546. 12. Pilling, D., Tucker, N. M., Gomer, R. H. (2006) Aggregated IgG inhibits the differentiation of human fibrocytes. J. Leukoc. Biol. 79, 12421251. 13. Haudek, S. B., Xia, Y., Huebener, P., Lee, J. M., Carlson, S., Crawford, J. R., Pilling, D., Gomer, R. H., Trial, J., Frangogiannis, N. G., Entman, M. L. (2006) Bone marrow-derived fibroblast precursors mediate ischemic cardiomyopathy in mice. Proc. Natl. Acad. Sci. USA 103, 1828418289. 14. Pilling, D., Gomer, R. H. (2007) Regulatory pathways for fibrocyte differentiation. In FIBROCYTESNew Insights into Tissue Repair and Systemic Fibroses (R. Bucala, ed.), World Scientific Publishing, Singapore, 3760. 15. Pilling, D., Roife, D., Wang, M., Ronkainen, S. D., Crawford, J. R., Travis, E. L., Gomer, R. H. (2007) Reduction of bleomycin-induced pulmonary fibrosis by serum amyloid P. J. Immunol. 179, 40354044. 16. Wynn, T. A. (2004) Fibrotic disease and the T(H)1/T(H)2 paradigm. Nat. Rev. Immunol. 4, 583594. 17. Cohn, L., Elias, J. A., Chupp, G. L. (2004) Asthma: mechanisms of disease persistence and progression. Annu. Rev. Immunol. 22, 789815. 18. Reiner, S. L., Locksley, R. M. (1995) The regulation of immunity to Leishmania major. Annu. Rev. Immunol. 13, 151177.
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19. Powell, D. W., Mifflin, R. C., Valentich, J. D., Crowe, S. E., Saada, J. I., West, A. B. (1999) Myofibroblasts. I. Paracrine cells important in health and disease. Am. J. Physiol. 277, C1C19. 20. Dewald, O., Ren, G., Duerr, G. D., Zoerlein, M., Klemm, C., Gersch, C., Tincey, S., Michael, L. H., Entman, M. L., Frangogiannis, N. G. (2004) Of mice and dogs: species-specific differences in the inflammatory response following myocardial infarction. Am. J. Pathol. 164, 665677. 21. Raza, K., Falciani, F., Curnow, S. J., Ross, E. J., Lee, C. Y., Akbar, A. N., Lord, J. M., Gordon, C., Buckley, C. D., Salmon, M. (2005) Early rheumatoid arthritis is characterized by a distinct and transient synovial fluid cytokine profile of T cell and stromal cell origin. Arthritis Res. Ther. 7, R784R795. 22. Simms, R. W., Korn, J. H. (2002) Cytokine directed therapy in scleroderma: rationale, current status, and the future. Curr. Opin. Rheumatol. 14, 717722. 23. Guo, Z., Kavanagh, E., Zang, Y., Dolan, S. M., Kriynovich, S. J., Mannick, J. A., Lederer, J. A. (2003) Burn injury promotes antigen-driven Th2-type responses in vivo. J. Immunol. 171, 39833990. 24. Tredget, E. E., Yang, L., Delehanty, M., Shankowsky, H., Scott, P. G. (2006) Polarized Th2 cytokine production in patients with hypertrophic scar following thermal injury. J. Interferon Cytokine Res. 26, 179189. 25. Zurawski, S. M., Vega Jr., F., Huyghe, B., Zurawski, G. (1993) Receptors for interleukin-13 and interleukin-4 are complex and share a novel component that functions in signal transduction. EMBO J. 12, 26632670. 26. Wills-Karp, M. (2004) Interleukin-13 in asthma pathogenesis. Immunol. Rev. 202, 175190. 27. Leonard, W. J., OShea, J. J. (1998) Jaks and STATs: biological implications. Annu. Rev. Immunol. 16, 293322. 28. Horvath, C. M., Darnell, J. E. (1997) The state of the stats: recent developments in the study of signal transduction to the nucleus. Curr. Opin. Cell Biol. 9, 233239. 29. Mosmann, T. R., Coffman, R. L. (1989) Th1-cell and Th2-celldifferent patterns of lymphokine secretion lead to different functional properties. Annu. Rev. Immunol. 7, 145173. 30. Salmon, M., Pilling, D., Mappin, C., Akbar, A. N., Gordon, J., Whetton, A. D. (1996) Human T cell differentiation and cytokine regulation. In Hemopoietic Cell Growth Factors (J. R. Harris, ed.), New York, NY, USA, Plenum, 203215. 31. Schroder, K., Hertzog, P. J., Ravasi, T., Hume, D. A. (2004) Interferon-gamma: an overview of signals, mechanisms and functions. J. Leukoc. Biol. 75, 163189. 32. Pilling, D., Kitas, G. D., Salmon, M., Bacon, P. A. (1989) The kinetics of interaction between lymphocytes and magnetic polymer particles. J. Immunol. Methods 122, 235241. 33. Akbar, A. N., Salmon, M., Ivory, K., Taki, S., Pilling, D., Janossy, G. (1991) Human CD4_ CD45RO_ and CD4_ CD45RA_ T cells synergize in response to alloantigens. Eur. J. Immunol. 21, 25172522. 34. Salmon, M., Pilling, D., Borthwick, N. J., Viner, N., Janossy, G., Bacon, P. A., Akbar, A. N. (1994) The progressive differentiation of primed T cells is associated with an increasing susceptibility to apoptosis. Eur. J. Immunol. 24, 892899.
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ALEURON ACNE-CLEAR
There is no single condition which causes more psychic trauma, more maladjustment between parent and children, more general insecurity and feelings of inferiority and greater sums of psychic suffering than does acne vulgaris (Sulzberger and Zaidems, 1948) Khng c bnh l n c no gy ra nhiu chn thng tm l, nhiu bt ha gia cha m v con ci, nhiu bt an v cm gic v s thp km, v nhiu au n tinh thn hn nhng g m mn trng c gy ra. Bt chp cc tin b y khoa, li nhn xt ca chuyn gia tm l Sulzberger v Zaidems cch y hn 60 nm dng nh vn cn gi tr.
Tn sn phm v chc nng: Aleuron Acne-Clear: Tr mn Thnh phn: Aqua, Glycerin, Stearic acid, Niacinamide, Carbomer, Hydrogenated castor oil, Propylene glycol, Salicylic acid, Dimethicone, Retinyl acetate, Ascorbic acid, Cocos nucifera oil, Tocopheryl acetate, Biotin, Panthenol, Sulfur, Zinc Laurate, Sodium cocoyl isethionate, Cetearyl alcohol, Cetyl alcohol, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed oil, Triethanolamine, Lycopene, Curcumin, Triclosan, Propylparaben, BHT, Methylparaben, Camellia Sinensis Catechins C ch sinh mn trng c v cch x tr: H thng da bao gm da v cc phn ph nh: lng tc, mng, cc tuyn (tuyn m hi, tuyn b nhn, tuyn v). Trong tuyn b nhn ng mt vai tr quan trng trong vic gi m v lm mn da nh chc nng bi tit lipids vo phu nang lng v (t ) tro ngc ln b mt da. Mi ngy tuyn b da ngi tit ra khong 20 gam m vi t l c chng ca tng loi lipid nh sau: Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011 Page
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T l % 25% 41% 16% 12% 1.4% 2.1% 2%
Loi lipid Wax monoesters (ester ca ru bo v acid bo) (tri)Glycerides (ester ca ru glycerol v acid bo) Axit bo t do Squalene (tin cht ca cholesterol) Cholesterol t do Cholesterol ester ha Loi khc
Ghi ch Tng trong mn trng c
Gim, c bit l gim a.linoleic Tng trong mn trng c Tng trong mn trng c Tng trong mn trng c
Trng hp da c qu nhiu tuyn b nhn v/hoc tuyn b nhn hot ng mnh, lng lipids gia tng ng k, tr thnh ngun cung cp dinh dng cho cc loi vi khun v vi nm a m, gy ri lon thm vi khun thng tr v ri lon cc phn ng sinh l, sinh ha da. C mt lng ln cc loi lipids khng thy phn c, chng b oxy ha to thnh nhng tp cht c tnh ha ng ng vi cc loi t bo min dch nh bch cu a nhn, i thc bo, lympho bo, dng bo v.v dn n phn ng vim nang lng. Cc tp cht ny (cng vi cc t bo min dch v ha cht trung gian ca chng, nh IL-1A, IL-1B, IL-8, IL-12, IL-18, TNF ) cng gy yu hoc v thnh nang lng, lm phn ng vim nng thm. Cc loi lipids thy phn c (v d glycerides) l ngun cung cp dinh dng cho tp khun thng tr da (P.acnes, C.acnes, S.epidermidis, M.furfur). Sn phm thoi ha ca glycerides l cc acid bo cng c th gy vim v v nang lng. Cc enzyme ca vi khun (P.acnes) nh protease, lipase, phosphatase, hyaluronidaz, prostaglandine like substance v.v l nhng cht gy vim v v nang lng. Cc mnh vn t bo vi khun k kh P.acnes c tnh sinh min dch mnh, lm nng thm ng k phn ng vim. iu ny kh d gii thch cho vic mt s kem thoa cha cht c ch P.acnes c th gy bng pht mn trng c trong giai on u trc khi chng t c kt qu. S tng kt dnh ca cc t bo sng trong phu nang lng l nguyn nhn chnh to thnh nhn mn trng c (comedon). Nhn mn trng c c th gy tc nghn, gin n v v nang lng. Mt s yu t c th lin quan n tnh trng tng sng nh: gim nng /hot tnh cc acid bo thit yu ti da (acid linoleic, acid linolenic ), tng s lng/hot tnh th th peroxisome h toll like receptors (TLRs), enzyme 5-lipooxygenase, s lng desmosomes v cc hnh thc lin kt biu m khc, s lng ht bn trong t bo sng cng ang c nghin cu. Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011 proliferator-activated receptor (PPAR) trn t bo sng v.v... Cc yu t khc nh vai tr th th
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Tm li, c ch sinh mn trng c c bn gm 4 nguyn nhn chnh: (i) tng tit b nhn, (ii) tng sng ha phu nang lng, (iii) nhim trng, v (iv) phn ng vim. Cc giai on pht trin ca mn trng c c th c minh ha bng s sau y:
(P.acnes, S.epidermidi, M.furfur : triglycerides ) di thc: nhiu hnh Yu nang lng ester, cholesterol, 5 anpha reductase polar lipid, triglycerides trung gian: protease, lipase, phosphatase, hyaluronidaz, prostaglandine like substance lng + glycerol. V nang lng do ha cht thng phng thch ha cht trung gian gy li ko bch cu v i thc bo: histamin, bradykinin, prostaglandin Tng tit FGF7, FGF10 (fibroblast growth factor) nang lng Nhn mn trng c (comedon): V t bo s Gi (acid linoleic, acid linolenic). P.acnes thng b nang lng nang lng do c hc Tng sinh m Phng thch ha cht trung gian t bch cu: IL-1A, IL1B, IL-8, IL-12, IL-18, TNF v.v qua trung gian th th toll-likereceptor (TLR) 2 Vim nng hn
Khng k cc dng pht ban kiu trng c, ni chung mn trng c c c trng bng nhng sang thng a dng, nhiu la tui (sang thng pht trin nhiu giai on khc nhau). Tuy nang, nt ) v khng/t vim (mn u trng, mn u en). Sinh l bnh ca phn ng vim trong mn trng c ht sc phc tp v cn nhiu b n. Tuy nhin, nhng khm ph gn y Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011
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vy, c th chia cc sang thng ny lm hai dng: sang thng vim (sn, mn m, c, cc,
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h m nhiu chi tit th v v kh nng kim sot hin tng vim sng v to nn mt cuc chy ua trong vic tm kim v ng dng cc hot cht c kh nng iu tr mn trng c vi tc dng ph ti thiu. AleuronTM cng khng nm ngoi cuc chi khoa hc ny. Vim thng c coi l hin tng th pht xy ra sau s to lp nhn mn. Tht ra mn trng c ngay t nhng giai on u tin c hin tng vim (Anthony H. T. Jeremy, Diana B. Holland,
Susan G. Roberts, Kathryn F. Thomson, and William J. Cunliffe. Inflammatory Events Are Involved in Acne Lesion Initiation. J Invest Dermatol 121:20 - 27, 2003) :
Khng ch n gin l cc triu chng lm sng (sng, nng, , au), hin tng vim l mt khi nim m hc hn l mt nh ngha, nhng l nhng khi nim ht sc c th (tm nhun ha cht gy vim, lng ng t bo vim (bch cu), tng sinh mch mu ) v a n nhng kt qu c th (tng sinh, bit ha, sa cha, ti to, bin dng, hy hoi v.v.. cc m, t bo)
Mt trong nhng hin tng xy ra sm nht trong qu trnh hnh thnh nhn mn trng c l tng sng ha phu nang lng, hu qu ca s tng sn (hyperproliferation) v bit ha bt thng (abnormal differentiation) ca cc t bo sng trong nang lng.
S tng sn c nh du bi s gia tng marker Ki67, mt loi protein trong nhn t bo cn cho qu trnh nguyn phn. S bit ha bt thng c nh du bi s gia tng keratin K16, mt loi keratin thng gp trong cc bnh l dy sng. Trong khi cc t bo sng thng thng thng biu l cp K5-K14 (lp y), K1-K10, K2-K11 (lp sng)
bnh nhn trng c: quanh nhn mn v quanh nang-lng-khng-c-nhn-mn thy cc hin tng sau (tt c cc hin tng u c ngha thng k vi p<0.05): o Ha cht gy vim: tm nhun nhiu integrin 2, integrin 3, interleukin-1, IL1receptor type II. Integrin l phn t gip gn t bo biu m vo mng y (integrin tham gia to nn hemidesmosome v focal adhesion), cng l cht truyn tn hiu cho t bo (lm t bo sinh sn, pht trin, bit ha, di c, hoc cht). Integrin 2 v 3 c hot ha bi collagen IV v laminin (l hai thnh phn to nn mng y). Cn interleukin-1 th gy phn ng vim khng c hiu, v lm tng sn t bo sng. o Bch cu: S lng CD3+ (pan T cells), CD4 (helper T cells) tng, CD45RA+ (naive T cells) tng, CD45RO+ (memory/effector T cells) tng, t l CD45RO/CD45RA tng (t l ~ 2.5:1), CLA+ (skin homing T cells) tng, macrophages (CD68+) tng o Tn to mch mu (lp b): HLA-DR tng, VCAM-1 (vascular cell adhesion molecule 1) tng, vascular v integrin tng, 6 integrin tng.
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P.acnes sn xut mt s enzyme ngoi bo (Lena I. Vorobjeva. Propionibacteria, p.34-36, chapter 1) trc tip ph hy nang lng: o Nuclease o Neuraminidase: phn hy neuraminic acid trn mng t bo v t bo o Gelatinase (collagenase): phn hy collagen ca mng y thng mng y o Hyaluronidase: phn hy acid hyaluronic ca cht cn bn tn thng b, h b o Chondroitin sulfatase: phn hy chondroitin sulfate ca cht cn bn tn thng b, h b o Acid phosphatase o Lipase: phn hy glycerides thnh acid bo. Mt s acid bo c tnh gy vim o Protease: Phn hy protein thnh cc peptide. Mt s peptide c tnh gy vim Gii phng yu t tng trng ang b vi lp trong khi cht cn bn vng gian bo: VEGF (tn to mch mu), EGF (tng sng ha phu nang lng), FGF Kch thch t bo sng bi tit IL-8 o Histamin: a pH nang lng t 5.5 ln 7.5, to mi trng thun li cho s tng trng ca vi khun
Cc cht tit v cc sn phm chuyn ha ca P.acnes gy thu ht bch cu a nhn v i thc bo (TB) P.acnes kch thch TB sn xut ha cht gy vim: Interleukin (IL)-1B, IL-8, IL-12, IL-18, TNF v.v qua trung gian th th toll-like-receptor (TLR) 2
Kim sot mn trng c bao gm 2 yu t c bn l: (i) s dng thuc ph hp v (ii) s kin nhn. Thi gian iu tr ti thiu t 3-6 thng v thng thng ko di hn 1 nm trong cc trng hp nng. Aleuron Acne-Clear l kem thoa c c ch dnh ring cho ln da nhn hoc c mn trng c, bao gm cc loi mn trng c vim (mn bc, mn m) v khng vim (mn trng c nhn m (mn u trng, mn u en) v mn trng c nhn ng). Aleuron Acne-Clear cng ph hp s dng cho ln da b thm do mn, da c so lm, da pht ban dng trng c. Aleuron Acne-Clear c cha cc thnh phn chit xut t thin nhin c cho l c kh nng c ch hot tnh androgen do c ch men 5-reductase, t gip gim nhn da mt: km, chit xut tr xanh (camellia sinensis catechins), tinh cht ngh (curcumin), biotin, panthenol, sulfur.
sng cho thy nicotinamide 4% cho hiu qu t nht l tng ng vi clindamycin 1% trong Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011
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triclosan, du m u (calophyllum inophyllum) v nicotinamide. Tht vy, cc nghin cu lm
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Aleuron Acne-Clear tc ng ln vi khun P.acnes nh c cha cc thnh phn: km, acid lauric,
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iu tr mn trng c m khng lm tng nguy c khng thuc (Int J Dermatol. 1995 Jun;34(6):434-7). Mt nghin cu th v khc l vic s dng acid lauric chit xut t du datinh khit em li hiu qu gp 15 ln so vi vic s dng benzoyl peroxide vi cng nng m khng lm tng nguy c kch ng da (Journal of Investigative Dermatology advance online publication, 23 April 2009; doi:10.1038/ jid. 2009. 93). Cn thnh phn km th lm tng hiu qu ca cc cht tr mn khc, v lm gim nguy c khng . Chit xut du m u cng l mt thnh phn c o nh kh nng dit khun v kch thch to m ht, thc y tin trnh lnh vt thng. Calophyllum Inophyllum cha 3 nhm lipid cn bn: lipid trung tnh, glycolipid v phospholipid, mt acid bo gi l calophyllic acid, mt cht khng sinh mang vng lactone v mt cht khng vim khng steroid gi l calophyllolide. Ngoi ra cn c cht khng vim coumarine to nn nhng hot tnh bo v sc khe. V th du Calophyllum Inophyllum c tc dng khng khun, khng vim, gim au, lm y so (ln m ht). Cc thnh phn c u tin s dng trong m phm Aleuron Acne-Clear bao gm 15 hot cht:
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Aleuron Acne-Clear c cha thnh phn salycilic acid dng ha tan v vitamin A dng ester nng cao c th chuyn ha thnh tretinoin, m khng gy cc tc dng ph kh chu nh tretinoin. Cc cht ny c tc dng tiu sng (gip ngn nga nhn mn trng c). Aleuron Acne-Clear cha vitamin C nng cao v cc chit xut thc vt c tc dng du da (castor oil, cocos nucifera oil, calophyllum inophyllum oil). Nhiu bng chng cho thy cc cht ny khng ch phn ng vim sng. Cc hot cht ca Aleuron Acne-Clear c vn chuyn bi mt h thng cht mang c o l cc t dc nh tng kch thc nano (tiu phn nano) c kh nng thm thu n tn cc nang lng su trong lp h b da. Nu khng c cc t dc ny th nhng hot cht chnh cng kh pht huy ht tc dng.
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Ti liu tham kho:

1. Aldana OL, Holland DB, Cunliffe WJ: Variation in pilosebaceous duct keratinocyte proliferation in acne patients. Dermatology 196:98^99, 1998 2. Brooks PC, Clark RAF, Cheresh DA: Requirement of vascular integrin avb3 for angiogenesis. Science 264:569^571, 1994 3. Carroll JM, Romero R,Watt FM: Suprabasal integrin expression in the epidermis of transgenic mice results in developmental defects and a phenotype resembling psoriasis. Cell 83:957^968, 1995 4. Cavani A, Zambruno G, Marconi A, Manca V, Marchetti M, Giannetti A: Distinctive integrin expression in the newly forming epidermis during wound healing in humans. J Invest Dermatol 101:600^604, 1993 5. Colotta F, Re F, Muzio IM, et al: Interleukin-1 type II receptor: A decoy target for IL-1 that is regulated by IL-4. Science 261:472^475, 1993 6. Creamer D, Allen M, Sonsa A, Poston R, Barker J: Altered vascular endothelium integrin expression in psoriasis. AmJ Pathol 147:1661^1667, 1995 7. CunliffeWJ, Holland DB, Clark SM, Stables GI: Comedogenesis: Some new aetiological, clinical and therapeutic strategies. Br J Dermatol 142:1084^1091, 2000 8. Detmar M, Brown L, Schon MP, et al: Increased microvascular density and enhanced leukocyte rolling and adhesion in the skin of VEGF transgenic mice. J Invest Dermatol 111:1^6, 1998 9. Downing DT, Stewart ME,Wertz PW, Strauss JS: Essential fatty acids and acne. Jam Acad Dermatol 14:221^225, 1986 10. Dustin ML, Rothlein R, Bhan AK, Dinarello CA, Springer TA: Induction by IL-1 and IFN, tissue distribution, biochemistry and function of a natural adherence molecule (ICAM-1). J Immunol 137:245^254, 1986 11. Dustin ML, Singer KH,Tuck DT, Springer TA: Adhesion of T-lymphoblasts to epidermal keratinocytes is regulated by IFN and is mediated by ICAM-1. J Exp Med 167:1323^1340, 1988 12. Elias PM, Brown BE, ZibohVA: The permeability barrier in essential fatty acid deficiency: Evidence for a direct role for linoleic acid in barrier function. J Invest Dermatol 74:230^233, 1980 13. Freedberg IM,Tomic-Canic M, Komine M, Blumenberg M: Keratins and the keratinocyte activation cycle. J Invest Dermatol 116:633^640, 2001 14. Groves RW, Allen MH, Barker JNWN, Haskard DO, MacDonald DM: Endothelial leucocyte adhesion molecule-1 (ELAM-1) expression in cutaneous inammation. Br J Dermatol 124:117^123, 1991 15. Groves RW, Rauschmayr T, Nakamura K, Sarkar S,Williams IR, Kupper TS: Effect of in vivo interleukin-1 on
epidermis (induction of the type II receptor after organ culture and in psoriasis). Am J Pathol 145:1048^1056, 1994
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16. Groves RW, Sherman L, Mizutani H, Dower SK, Kupper TS: Detection of interleukin 1 receptors in human
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adhesion molecule expression in normal human skin. J Invest Dermatol 98:384^387, 1992
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17. Groves RW, Allen MH, Ross EL, Barker JNWN, MacDonald DM:Tumour necrosis factor a is pro-inammatory in normal human skin and modulates cutaneous adhesion molecule expression. Br J Dermatol 132:345^352, 1995 18. Guy R, KealeyT: The effects of inammatory cytokines on the isolated human sebaceous infundibulum. J Invest Dermatol 110:410^415, 1998 19. Guy R, Green MR, Kealey T: Modeling acne in vitro. J Invest Dermatol 106:176^182, 1996 20. Ingham E, EadyA, Goodwin CE, Cove JH, CunliffeWJ: Pro-inflammatory levels of IL-1 -like bioactivity are present in the majority of open comedones in acne vulgaris. J Invest Dermatol 98:895^901, 1992 21. Knaggs HE, Holland DB, Morris C,Wood EJ, CunliffeWJ: Quantification of cellular proliferation in acne using the monoclonal antibody Ki67. J Invest Dermatol 102:89^92, 1994 22. Knutson DD: Ultrastructural observations in acne vulgaris: The normal sebaceous follicle and acne lesions. J Invest Dermatol 62:288^307, 1974 23. Kozlowska U, Blume-Peytavi U, KodeljaV, Sommer C, Goerdt S, Jablonska S, Orfanos CE:Vascular endothelial growth factor expression induced by pro-inammatory cytokines (Interleukin 1a, b) in cells of the human pilosebaceous unit. Dermatology 196:89^92, 1998 24. Layton AM, Morris C, Cunlie WJ, Ingham E: Immunohistochemical investigation of evolving inammation in lesions of acne vulgaris. Exp Dermatol 7:191^197, 1998 25. Norris JFB, Cunlie WJ: A histological and immunocytochemical study of early acne lesions. Br J Dermatol 118:651^659, 1988 26. OBrien SC, Lewis JB, CunlieWJ: The Leeds revised acne grading system. J Dermatological Treatment 9:215^220, 1998 27. Orentreich N, Durr NP:The natural evolution of comedones into inammatory papules and pustules. J Invest Dermatol 62:316^320, 1974 28. Perisho K,Wertz PW, Madison KC, Stewart ME, Downing DT: Fatty acids of acylceramides from comedones and from the skin surface of acne patients and control subjects. J Invest Dermatol 90:350^353, 1988 29. Plewig G, Fulton JE, Kligman AM: Cellular dynamics of comedo formation in acne vulgaris. Arch Dermatol Forsch 242:12^29, 1971 30. Webster GF: Inflammation in acne vulgaris. J Am Acad Dermatol 33:247^253, 1995 31. Wood LC, Feingold KR, Sequeira-Martin SM, Elias PM, Grunfeld C: Barrier function coordinately regulates epidermal IL-1 and IL-1 receptor antagonist mRNA levels. Exp Dermatol 3:56^60, 1994 32. Yawalkar N, Hunger RE, Pichler WJ, Braathen LR, Brand CU: Human afferent lymph from normal skin contains an increased number of mainly memory/effector CD4 Tcells expressing activation, adhesion and co-stimulatory molecules. Eur J Immunol 30:491^497, 2000
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ALEURON SKIN-LIGHTENING
Tn sn phm v chc nng: Aleuron Skin-Lightening: Kem dng lm sng da mt, gip lm u tng mu da, gim bt tnh trng thm da do mn trng c, ngn nga v gim bt sm, nm, tn nhang, i mi. i tng s dng: Nhng ngi c nhu cu: Lm trng da an ton, hiu qu iu tr cc dng khc nhau ca mn trng c, c bit l mn vim sng iu tr sm, nm, tn nhang, i mi Tr ha da, chng lo ha iu tr so r, so thm do mn Thnh phn: Aqua, Niacinamide ascorbate, Glycerin, Caprylic / capric triglyceride, Hydrogenated castor oil, Cocoa butter glyceryl esters, Propylene glycol, Retinyl acetate, Glucosamine Ascorbate, Chitosan ascorbate, Collagen, Biotin, Panthenol, Arbutin, Zinc Laurate, Simethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetearyl alcohol, Cetyl alcohol, Hydrogenated lecithin, Triethanolamine, Carotenoids, Tocopheryl acetate, Propylparaben, BHT, Methylparaben, Bacillus / Houttuynia Cordata Leaf / Soybean Ferment Filtrate, Bakuhan, Ascorbyl Lactoside Cng dng: Aleuron Skin-Lightening c cha cc hot cht gip ngn nga v gim bt cc du hiu sm da khu tr v ri rc nh: Nm, Tn Nhang, i Mi, Da Lo Ha, Sm Da Sau Sanh, Sm Da Sau Vim (do chiu laser, IPL, tia x, phng, lt da). Hiu qu lm da sng rng r. Cng thc tuyt ho gip ngn chn s tng hp, vn chuyn v phng thch qu mc hc t n cc t bo thng b cng nh di thng b. Aleuron Skin-Lightening cng cha cc thnh phn lm da rng r, sng trng, chng thm, ngn mn, lm u tng mu da. i vi da b mn trng c: Nu phi hp vi Aleuron Acne-Clear s lm tng hiu qu mt cch ng k.
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ALEURON WRINKLE-CLEAR
Tn sn phm v chc nng: Aleuron Wrinkle-Clear: Lm m vt nhn. i tng s dng: Sn phm ph hp s dng cho nhng ngi c t nht mt trong cc tnh trng sau: Da lo ha, chy x, da xut hin nhiu np nhn, c bit l cc vt nhn quanh mt, np nhn trn, np cau my, cc rnh nhn li ti trn mt, quanh ming, cm, quanh g m. Da mt mi, thiu sc sng, da mt/thiu s n hi, stress th cht hoc tinh thn. Da nhy cm, d kch ng, gin mao mch. Da b tn thng do nhiu nguyn nhn: lt da bng ha cht (chemical peel), quang tr liu (laser, IPL, x tr), phng nng, rn da Da c so lm/so co tht/so gin, hoc cc tn thng khc cn khi phc lp collagen. Phng nga cc tnh trng nu trn. Thnh phn: Aqua, Hydrogenated castor oil, Glycerin, Caprylic/ capric triglyceride, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed oil, Dimethicone, Propylene glycol, Retinyl acetate, Rutin, Cocos nucifera oil, Collagen, Biotin, Panthenol, Caffeine, Zinc Laurate, Simethicone, Stearic acid, Cetearyl alcohol, Cetyl alcohol, Aspergillus/ lactobacillus/saccharomyces/rice bran ferment extract ferment filtrate, Ascorbic acid, Ascorbic acid polypeptide, Hydrogenated lecithin, Triethanolamine, Lycopene, Tocopheryl acetate, Niacinamide, Hyaluronic acid, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Propylparaben, BHT, Methylparaben, Melatonin, Acetyl Hexapeptide-22, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Ubiquinon Nguyn nhn gy lo ha da v cch x tr: Theo kt qu t nhiu cuc nghin cu, c n 90% nguyn nhn ln da b lo ha l do nh nng mt tri v ch c 10% l do gene. Tia UVA v UVB trong nh nng mt tri c th gy tn thng cho ln da. Khi da lo ha, c s gia tng phn ng oxy ha, tng phn ng vim, gim mt collagen, v gia tng phn hy ti th. Ngoi ra qu trnh lo ha cn bao gm hin tng r r proton qua Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011
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mng trong ca ti th v gim tnh thm ca mng ngoi. Cc ti th, l bo quan quan trng ca t bo vi kh nng chuyn nng lng t cc cht dinh dng thnh nng lng d tr di dng ATP, b nh hng nghim trng bi qu trnh lo ha. Cc nh khoa hc chng minh rng gc t do (ch yu l H2O2 v O2-) to ra do chui h hp t bo xy ra bn trong ti th l nguyn nhn chnh gy tn thng tch ly cho ti th theo thi gian. Khi da lo ha, ti th b tn hi ng k ko theo s suy gim nng ATP khin cho t bo khng cn nng lng thc hin cc phn ng duy tr chc nng sng ca n. Aleuron Wrinkle-Clear c chit xut t cc loi du thc vt khng gy cm gic nhn da, cc loi bioflavonoids (v d nh Rutin), vitamin tng hp, polypeptide, polysaccharides (nh hyaluronates) v cc cht c hot tnh hormone /enzyme (v d nh melatonin, ubiquinone) trong mt h thng cht mang ph hp cho cc ch phm thoa ti ch. Cc thnh phn ca Aleuron Wrinkle-Clear rt hu ch trong vic ci thin s xut hin ca tnh trng lo ha da c c trng bi cc np nhn v mt n hi. Hyaluronate (HA) l mt trong nhng thnh phn quan trng ca dch ngoi bo, hin din vi nng cao trong m lin kt mm, nh lp trung b da. HA l mt loi glycosaminoglycan mch h bao gm cc n v cu to bi acid D-glucuronic v N-acetyl-D-glucosamine. Trong ln da bnh thng, HA c tng hp ch yu bi nguyn bo si v i khi bi t bo sng ca thng b. L nhng i phn t tch in m, HA ng vai tr nh mt my bm nc m nh n hi ca da c th c duy tr. HA c mt vai tr chnh trong vic kim sot s khuch tn ca cc cht dinh dng, hormon, vitamin, mui v c ca m lin kt v lm sch cht thi trong qu trnh chuyn ha, m cc cht thi ny c th gy ra phn ng vim. Theotui tc, s lng v mc trng hp ca HA gim, dn n gim lng nc gi li trong m lin kt. Hu qu l da b x ho v mt si n hi. Melatonin, l hormone ng vai tr quan trng trong s iu ha gic ng, cng c tc dng chng lo ha, c bit chng li gc t do. Melatonin cng c cho l c kh nng ci thin s xut hin ca np nhn da v bo v da chng li nhng nh hng ca tia UV. Dng nh melatonin hot ng hiu qu hn cc cht chng oxy ha thng thng (nh vitamin C v vitamin E) c l do melatonin hot ng tt trong c mi trng nc ln mi trng lipid. Ubiquinone cng l mt thnh phn t nhin thng c bit n di tn gi l coenzyme-Q. Ubiquinone l mt coenzyme thit yu cho qu trnh sn xut nng lng trong ty th v l mt cht chng oxy ha quan trng trong c th sng. c nhng khng nh ubiquinone c hiu qu i vi bnh tim, cao huyt p v bnh khp, c l bi v ubiquinone ci thin s trao i thnh phn qu trong m phm cao cp.
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cht ca t bo. Ngoi ra, ubiquinone cn ci thin ln da th rp v c s dng nh mt
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Aleuron Wrinkle-Clear cn c c c t cc loi vitamin tinh khit, cc cht in gii, cht cn bn ca vng gian bo da, cc tinh cht chit xut t tho dc cc cht ny c tc dng kch thch s ti sinh t bo v sa cha nhng h hng t trong cu trc vi m ca da, gip nui dng v tr ha lp da. Aleuron Wrinkle-Clear c ch nh s dng cho nhng ngi c nhu cu chng lo ha, cn phc hi nt thanh xun cho ln da thiu sc sng, da mt mi, cng thng do tui tc, do thiu ng, do p lc cng vic, do mi trng nhim v nhng nguyn nhn khc. Cc hot cht ca Aleuron Acne-Clear c vn chuyn bi mt h thng cht mang c o l cc t dc nh tng c kh nng thm thu n tn cc nang lng su trong lp h b da. Nu khng c cc t dc ny th nhng hot cht chnh cng kh pht huy ht tc dng.
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ALEURON MASK-LIGHTENING
Tn sn phm v chc nng: Aleuron Mask-Lightening: Mt n sng da vng mt. i tng s dng: Nhng ngi c nhu cu: Lm trng da tc th, an ton, hiu qu Tr mn trng c, so thm, so r, nm, tn nhang, i mi, da lo ha, np nhn da. Ci thin ln da mt mi, thiu sc sng, da mt/thiu s n hi. Gi m v cung cp dng cht cho da. Lm mt, mn, du da. Thnh phn: Aqua, Carbomer, Hydrogenated castor oil, Glycerin, Agar, Stearic acid, Clay, Propylene glycol, Salicylic acid, Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Simethicone, Cetearyl alcohol, Cetyl alcohol, Calcium sulfate, Zeolite, Triethanolamine, Lycopene, Curcumin, Triclosan, Propylparaben, BHT, Methylparaben Cng dng: Mt n Aleuron Mask-Lightening vi chit xut t to bin v hn hp khong cht giu cht dinh dng cn thit cho da. Thnh phn khong cht thm thu su vo da, cung cp cht in gii (ion) cho tng t bo da, duy tr hot ng in th, kch thch cc si thn kinh gip ln da lun sng khoi. Ion l thnh phn chnh to ra in nng gip cc si thn kinh da hot ng tt. Da mt c nng lng s lun ti tnh, trn y sinh lc. Vng c mt c Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011 Page
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nui dng s khng cn b chy x, m tr nn sn chc, gn gng (nng c). To bin l ngun cung cp di do cc loi vitamin, acid amin rt d hp thu bi ln da. To bin c nhiu sinh t v vi lng nh bta-carotene, l cht chng xy ha hiu qu. V to bin cha cc cht cn bn trong tr liu nh nc, mui khong v dinh dng nn thng c bo ch lm mt n chm sc da. To phng thch cc hot cht tc ng hiu qu nh hm lng magi v kali cao, gip c th chng li cc khi u x c bp, lm sn da, gim hin tng da sn, da v cam. Hy cm nhn hiu qu r rng ca Mt n Aleuron Mask-Lightening ngay trong ln u tin s dng: da cng mn, trng sng mt cch ng ngc nhin.
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ALEURON DAILY UV CARE

Tn sn phm v chc nng: Aleuron Daily UV Care: Kem lt trang im gip che khuyt im, thch hp chng nng hng ngy vi SPF 30. i tng s dng: Kem chng nng c khuyn co s dng cho tt c mi ngi khng phn bit la tui. Cc trng hp cn thit nht, nu khng mun ni l bt buc, bao gm: Thng xuyn tip xc vi nh nng Tip xc nh nng lu hn 1 gi trong ngy Tip xc nh nng trong khong t 10-14 gi Da lo ha, xut hin thm nhiu np nhn Da tng sc t: nm, tn nhang, i mi Da b tn thng do nhiu nguyn nhn: lt da bng ha cht (chemical peel), quang tr liu (laser, IPL, x tr), phng nng, rn da, s dng m phm c tnh bo mn Vim da tho mc nh sng, vim da d ng nh sng Ngn nga cc tnh trng nu trn Thnh phn: Aqua, Titanium dioxide, Zinc oxide, Hydrogenated castor oil, Glycerin,
Niacinamide, Propylparaben, BHT, Methylparaben, Houttuynia Cordata Extract. Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011
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alcohol, Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Extract, Triethanolamine, Lycopene, Tocopheryl acetate,
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Dimethicone, Benzophenone-4, Propylene glycol, Simethicone, Stearic acid, Cetearyl alcohol, Cetyl
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C ch tc dng: Aleuron Daily UV Care l kem chng nng ph rng (chng c c tia UVA v UVB) thch hp s dng hng ngy. Sn phm c cha cht dng da kt hp vi kem lt v phn nn trang im gip che khuyt im tc th. Gng mt c chm sc bng Aleuron Daily UV Care s c v sng sa, mn mng, vi tng mu u n, ti tn nh da em b. Tt c cc du vt ca ln da b h hi, nh mn, vt thm do mn, nm, np nhn da v.v s gn nh bin mt hon ton. Aleuron Daily UV Care cha cc thnh phn chng nng hot ng tch cc theo c hai c ch: hp thu v phn x. Cc cht chng nng hot ng theo c ch hp thu gip hp thu nng lng ca tia t ngoi trc khi chng tip cn c vi ln da v phng thch cc tia ny tr li mi trng vi mc nng lng thp hn. Cc cht chng nng hot ng theo c ch phn x khng hp thu nng lng, nhng c tc dng phn x hoc tn x chm tia ti. Cc cht chng nng hu c hot ng theo c ch hp thu l chnh, trong khi cc cht chng nng v c (v d nh titanium dioxide, km oxide) c th hot ng theo c hai c ch, trong c ch phn x/tn x ng vai tr ch yu. Trong s cc tia UV n c b mt tri t, c th chia thnh hai loi tia: UVA v UVB. Tia UVB c bc sng t 290-320 nm. Tia UVA c bc sng di hn t 320-400 nm. Tia UVA cn c chia thnh hai loi: UVA I (340-400 nm) v UVA II (320-340 nm) Nhiu loi kem chng nng trn th trng hin nay t c hiu qu bo v i vi loi tia UVA, nht l tia UVA bc sng di (340-400 nm) hay cn gi l UVA I. S quan tm n tc hi ca tia UVA thi gian gn y c xu hng gia tng. Tia UVA c mc nng lng thp hn (ngha l bc sng di hn) tia UVB, do chng c kh nng xuyn thu cao hn. Tia UVA c th xuyn qua knh ca s trong khi hu ht tia UVB khng c kh nng ny. Tia UVA cng c th xuyn ti lp trung b da, ph hy cht cn bn v lm t gy cc si, gy nn tnh trng lo ha da, da nhn nheo, chy x. Gn y tia UVA cn c cho l c lin quan n tnh trng ung th t bo sc t (melanome). Ngc li, tia UVB c mc nng lng cao hn tia UVA, kh nng xuyn thu km hn nhng mc tn ph cu trc mnh m hn tia UVA. Tc hi ca UVB tp trung ch yu lp thng b da, l nguyn nhn chnh gy phng nng v ung th t bo da (t bo y v t bo gai). Thnh phn t dc trong kem chng nng Aleuron Daily UV Care cng ng vai tr ht sc quan trng, quyt nh tnh hiu qu (kh nng chng nng, th hin qua ch s SPF) v tnh thm m (kh nng che khuyt im) ca kem chng nng. Cc thnh phn ny, bao gm dung mi ha tan ln nh tng, nh hng su sc ln cc cht chng nng, lm tng hot tnh ca cht chng nng ti bc sng nh sng m chng hp thu. T dc cng lm cho lp kem chng nng khi thoa ln mt to nn v p t nhin m khng mang nt gi to.T dc cng gip gim thiu s tng tc khng cn thit gia cc thnh phn khng hot tnh v thnh phn c hot tnh. Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011 Page
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ALEURON EYELASHES
Tn sn phm v chc nng: Aleuron Eyelashes: Dung dch dng tc, lng mi, lng my; lm di mi, gip gim bt tnh trng rng lng, tc. Thnh phn: Hydrogenated castor oil, Hydrogenated olive oil, Aqua, Sodium chloride, Sodium hyaluronate, Disodium phosphate, Citric acid, Benzalkonium chloride, Isopropyl Cloprostenate, Dechloro Ethylcloprostenolamide, Dechloro Dihydroxy Difluoro Ethylcloprostenolamide C ch tc dng: ng vn Bimatoprost (prostaglandine tng hp)
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ALEURON BODY LIGHTENING MASK

Tn sn phm v chc nng: Aleuron Body Lightening Mask: Mt n sng da ton thn i tng s dng: Nhng ngi c nhu cu: Lm trng da tc th, an ton, hiu qu iu tr mn trng c, so thm, so r, nm, tn nhang, i mi, da lo ha, np nhn da (trn thn mnh). Lm mn da. Ci thin ln da mt mi, thiu sc sng, da mt/thiu s n hi. Gi m v cung cp dng cht cho da. Lm mt, du da. Thnh phn: Aqua, Carbomer, Hydrogenated castor oil, Glycerin, Agar, Stearic acid, Propylene
Caffeine, Salt mine mud, Alluvial mud, Methylparaben Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011
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M t: Mt n Aleuron Body Lightening Mask c cha bn non v mui khong c tinh ch v c c trong mt ch phm duy nht to nn mt loi gel en v c qunh, c nht va phi, thch hp s dng ton thn nh mt n dng da. Sn phm khng cha cht lt ty, khng gy bo mn da, khng kch ng, c th s dng mi ngy m vn an ton v m du cho da. Thnh phn cu to hon ton chit xut t thin nhin, khng cha cht bo qun c hi, khng cha cht to hng, khng cha cht to mu. Ch cn s dng sn phm (d ch mt ln), bn s cm nhn c ln da mn mng v ti mt, nhng cn hn th na, ln da bn s bng sng mt cch ng ngc nhin. Sn phm c bit ph hp cho ngi c ln da sm mu, da b tn nhang, i mi ( tay, chn, c) cn hiu qu lm trng sng tc th. Vng da b mn trng c, cc vt thm (thng gp lng, ngc, cnh tay) cng c ci thin ng k nh tc dng st trng, dit khun, tiu ci mn, gim phn ng vim sng.
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ALEURON BODY LIGHTENING SOAP

Tn sn phm v chc nng: Aleuron Body Lightening Soap: X bng tm lm sch da c th i tng s dng: Nhng ngi c nhu cu: Lm sch da/ty trang m khng gy kch ng (dnh cho da nhy cm, d d ng khi tm vi nc m, x bng cc, sa tm) Lm trng da tc th, an ton, hiu qu Kim sot da nhn/vim da tit b, mn trng c, so thm, so r, nm, tn nhang, i mi, da lo ha, np nhn da...(trn thn mnh). Lm mn da. Ci thin ln da mt mi, thiu sc sng, da mt/thiu s n hi. Lm mt, lm du da. Kim sot mi c th. To s t tin, thu ht. Thnh phn: Sodium laurate, Sodium palmate, Water, Sodium laureth sulfate, Sodium chloride, Glycerin, Propylene glycol, Hydrogenated castor oil, Cocos nucifera oil, Calophyllum inophyllum seed oil, Salicylic acid, Cetearyl alcohol, Cetyl alcohol, Triethanolamine, Sodium cocoyl Extract, Triclosan, Propylparaben, Caffeine, Salt mine mud, Alluvial mud Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011 isethionate, Copper sulfate, Zinc stearate, Ferrous sulfate, Zinc sulfate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf
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c tnh sn phm: X bng tm sng da Aleuron Body Lightening Soap c chit xut t cc hot cht thin nhin c ngun gc tho dc, ph hp vi nhu cu lm sng da ton thn v gim cc m sc t (tn nhang, i mi, so thm ). Sn phm cng ph hp cho ln da nhn v ni mn trng c, nht l mn trng c lng (l vng da kh thoa kem do din tch rng) v thn mnh. Aleuron Body Lightening Soap c cha cc thnh phn dng v du da, c bit gip lm sch v cn mang li cm gic khe khon, sng khoi m bn cha tng bit n khi s dng cc loi x phng tm thng thng. Tc dng kh mi hi ko di gip bn lun t tin trong giao tip thng ngy. Sn phm ph hp cho mi loi da, k c da nhy cm, d mn nga. Ch cn s dng sn phm t 3-4 ln l bn c th cm nhn c hiu qu trn ln da.
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ALEURON BODY LOTION

Tn sn phm v chc nng: Aleuron Body Lotion: Kem dng trng da ton thn Cng dng: Lm sng da ton thn: Da trng hng, rng r Lm m cc m nu, tn nhang, i mi Tr ha da, ngn nga lo ha, xa np nhn da Gi m da, lm da mm, mn, thch hp s dng cho ngi c tng d ng da. H tr iu tr mn trng c ( ngc, lng ) Chng nng
Thnh phn: Aqua, Carbomer, Hydrogenated castor oil, Glycerin, Titanium dioxide, Zinc oxide, Zinc stearate, Cocos nucifera oil, Acid lauric, Biotin, Panthenol, Stearic acid, Xanthan gum, Propylene glycol, Salicylic acid, Hydrogenated olive oil, Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Oleic acid, Linoleic acid, Linolenic acid, Zinc gluconate, Acetyl glucosamine, 7-Dehydrocholesterol, Simethicone, Cetearyl alcohol, Cetyl alcohol, Calcium sulfate, Zeolite, Triethanolamine, Lycopene, Curcumin, Triclosan, Propylparaben, BHT, Caffeine, Salt mine mud, Alluvial mud, Methylparaben, Ceramide 1, Ceramide 3, Acetylneuraminic acid, Allantoin ascorbate, Hydrolyzed grape fruit Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011
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ALEURON LIPOBLOCK
Tn sn phm v chc nng: Aleuron LipoBlock: Kem tan m, sn chc da Cng dng: Lm tan m bng, i, cnh tay, cm Sn chc da, c tr da chy x do sanh n, do ht m bng, da nho sau khi gim cn. Gim bt vt rn da (do c thai, bo ph ) iu tr da cam (cellulite, vim b h b) i vi nam gii: cn c thm tc dng lm sn chc c ngc, c tr ngc chy x. Thoa ln bng ngoi tc dng tiu m, cn c tc dng sn chc bng, to hnh khi c (lm bng thon, c mi) Thnh phn: Aqua, Glycerin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carbomer, Theophylline, Caffein,
Niacinamide, Bioflavonoids, Phosphatidylcholine, Sodium deoxycholate, Dexpanthenol,

Thiamine nitrate, Propylene glycol, Carnitin, Dimethicone, Simethicone, Cetearyl alcohol, Cetyl alcohol, Hyaluronidase, Lipase, Protease, Zinc sulfate, Triethanolamine, Copper sulfate, Biotin, Propylparaben, BHT, Methylparaben C ch tc dng: Thc y hin tng ly gii m Tng cng qu trnh d ha Ngn cn s tch ly nng lng di dng glycerides Tng hot tnh h thng vn chuyn acid bo vo ty th Hot ha AMP vng.
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ALEURON EYES SERUM

Tn sn phm v chc nng: Aleuron Eyes Serum: Kem dng da quanh vng mt Cng dng: Xa bng m di mt Xa np nhn quanh mt Tr thm qung mt
Thnh phn: Aqua, Glycerin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carbomer, Theophylline, Caffein, Bioflavonoids, Phosphatidylcholine, Sodium deoxycholate, Dexpanthenol, Thiamine nitrate, Propylene glycol, Carnitin, Dimethicone, Simethicone, Cetearyl alcohol, Cetyl alcohol, Zinc gluconate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Hydrogenated lecithin, Dimethicone, Propylene glycol, Retinyl acetate, Ascorbic acid, Cocos nucifera oil, Collagen, Biotin, Ceramide 1, Lycopene, Tocopheryl acetate, Niacinamide, Hyaluronic acid, Triethanolamine, Linoleic acid, Biotin, Propylparaben, BHT, Methylparaben, Ubiquinon, Hexapeptide-3, Lipoic acid
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Aleuron - Tu Li Thuyet Đen Thuc Te Lam Sang

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Aleuron - Tu Li Thuyet Đen Thuc Te Lam Sang

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M PHM ALEURON: T L THUYT

BS. Trn Quang Dng BS. on Cng Hip

Miss World Corporation

Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011

Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011

M PHM ALEURON: T L THUYT N THC T LM SNG

M HC, SINH L, SINH HA H THNG DA BNH THNG

The Mosteller formula (recommended)

The Mosteller formula (recommended)

The DuBois and DuBois formula

Formulae without using length

Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011

p dng BSA: Chc nng thn GFR ~ CCr

Cockcroft -Gault formula CCr corrected formula

Liu ha tr ung th Liu cortisol duy tr trong iu tr suy thng thn:

6-12 mg/m BSA/day

Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011

M PHM ALEURON: T L THUYT N THC T LM SNG

Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011

Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011

M PHM ALEURON: T L THUYT N THC T LM SNG

Biu m lt tng sng ha

Lt (Tessellate, squamous, pavement)

Cht tit theo ng dn ra mi trng bn ngoi c th ( ra b mt da hoc vo trong cc xoang t nhin)

M PHM ALEURON: T L THUYT N THC T LM SNG

Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011

Biu M Vung Tng

Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011

M PHM ALEURON: T L THUYT N THC T LM SNG

Biu M Tr Gi Tng, C Lng Chuyn

Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011

M PHM ALEURON: T L THUYT N THC T LM SNG

Cc hnh thc lin kt trong thng b

(or zonula adherens or "belt desmosome")

Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011

Lin Kt Cht (Lin Kt Vng Bt, Tight Junction):

Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011

may li bi nhng si ch protein

M PHM ALEURON: T L THUYT N THC T LM SNG

Th Lin Kt Vng (Adherens Junctions, Zonula Adherens, or "Belt Desmosome")

vi nhng si protein xuyn qua. Cc si protein xuyn mng i t t bo ny n t bo kia

M PHM ALEURON: T L THUYT N THC T LM SNG

Lin Kt Khe (Gap Junction)

Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011

bullous pemphigoid antigens

Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011

M PHM ALEURON: T L THUYT N THC T LM SNG

Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011

Eleidin Keratin giu lu hunh (5% S)

Tonofibrile + Keratohyalin Eleidin

Th lin kt khng in hnh

Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011

M PHM ALEURON: T L THUYT N THC T LM SNG

Ht keratohyalin (giu protein) khng c mng (cha nhiu profilaggrin v loricrin)

Tng hp b si trng lc (tonofibrile)

Lin kt gai gip da bn chc

Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011

Tng hp siu si trng lc (tonofilament)

Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011

M PHM ALEURON: T L THUYT N THC T LM SNG

T bo min dch (TB Langerhan, Lymphocyte, Mastocyte...)

T bo thn kinh (TB Merkel)

Miss World Corporation | Initial Research Department 2011

C IM SINH L, SINH HA CA THNG B