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COLOUR CODE FOR SEAM DIAGRAMS

OPERATION BREAKDOWN
SECTION: (A) FRONT
OPERATION NUMBER A01 OPERATION NAME SEAM DIAGRAM MACHINE RECOMMENDED SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH STITCH TYPE 301 WORK-AID/ ATTACHMENT REQUIRED

SEW GORE TO FRONT

A02

SEW TAPE TO ARMHOLE

SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH

301

A03

SEW TAPETO SHOULER

SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH

301

SIDE POCKETS WITH FLAP:


A04 RUN STITCH FLAP WITH FUSIBLE INTERLINING ON HALF OF THE FLAP TURN AND FORM FLAP SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH TURNING MACHINE OR MANUAL TURNING LASER SLIT MAKING MACHINE/ MANUAL SCISSORS 301

A05

A06

MAKE SLIT

A07

SEW SIDE POCKET UPPER WELT WITH WELT

A08

SEW SIDE POCKET UNDER WELT

A09 A10

TURN AND FROM SIDE POCKET SEW SIDE POCKET BAG TO UNDER WELT SEW SIDE POCKET BAG TO UPPER WELT

SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH/ AUTOMATIC WELTING MACHINE SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH/ AUTOMATIC WELTING MACHINE MANUAL TURNING SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH

301

301

301

A11

301

A12

SEW SIDE POCKET BAG

DNLS/ 4-THREAD OVERLOCK OR

301X2 OR 514

BREAST POCKET
A13 FUSE FUSIBLE INTERLINING ON BREAST POCKET WELT AND FOLD WELT FUSING MACHINE AND WELT FOLDING MACHINE/ MANUAL FOLDING

A14

SEW WELT AND POCKET BAG TO FRONT

A15

CUT, TURN AND FORM BREAST POCKET SEW BREAST POCKET BAG

A16

SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH OR AUTOMATIC WELTING MACHINE TURNING MACHINE AND SNLS DNLS OR 4THREAD OVERLOCK

301, 301

301

301X2 OR 514

A17

BASTE INTERLINING TO FRONT

SINGLE NEEDLE BASTING MACHINE FUSING MACHINE FUSING MACHINE BLIND STITCHING MACHINE FORM FINISHER AUTOMATIC LAPEL PADDING MACHINE

301

A18 A19 A20 A21 A22

FUSE FUSIBLE TAPE ON GORGE AND FRONT EDGE FUSE FUSIBLE TAPE ON LAPEL LINE BLIND STITCH LAPEL TAPE FORM FRONT PAD LAPELS

103

SECTION: (B) FACING


OPERATION NUMBER B01 B02 OPERATION NAME SEAM DIAGRAM MACHINE RECOMMENDED FUSING MACHINE SNLS 301 STITCH TYPE WORK-AID/ ATTACHMENT REQUIRED

FUSE INTERLINING TO LAPEL SEW FRONT LINING TO LAPEL

B03

MARK POCKET POSITIONS

WORKING TABLE

BRAND LABEL: 1
B04 SEW BRAND LABLE TO SHELL FABRIC PIECE SEW SHELL FABRIC PIECE TO RIGHT FRONT LINING SNLS 301

B05

SNLS

301

INSIDE POCKET(RIGHT)
B06 B07 MAKE THE SIDE CUT PLACE FACING ON BOTTOM OF POCKET MARK AND RUN STITCH WORKING TABLE SNLS/ AUTOMATIC WELT MAKING MACHINE SNLS/ AUTOMATIC WELT MAKING MACHINE 301

B08

PLACE POCKET BAG ON TOP OF POCKET MARK AND RUNSTITCH

301

B09

CUT AND TURN

B10

ATTACH FACING AND POCKET BAG

TURNING MACHINE FOR WELT POCKET SNLS

301

B11

SIDE STITCH POCKET BAG

DNLS OR 4THREAD OVERLOCK OR

301X2 OR 514

B12

TOP STITCH ON BOTH THE SIDES

SNLS

301

B13 B14

MAKE PLEAT OF THE CUT FABRIC CLOSE THE CUT

WORKING TABLE SNLS 301

COIN POCKET(LEFT)
B15 FOLD COIN POCKET FOLDING MACHINE/ MANUAL FOLDING SNLS FOLDER FOR ACCURATE FOLDING 301

B16

ATTATCH WASH LABEL TO COIN POCKET

B17

ATTACH BIAS STRIP TO EDGES

SNLS

301

B18

ATTACH COIN POCKET

SNLS

301

INSIDE POCKET(LEFT): repeat B6-B14


B19 TOP STITCH LAPEL SNLS 301

B20

CREASE LABELS

LABEL CREASING MACHINE

SECTION: (C) BACK


OPERATION NUMBER C01 OPERATION NAME SEAM DIAGRAM MACHINE RECOMMENDED BLIND HEMMING MACHINE SNLS 301 STITCH TYPE WORK-AID/ ATTACHMENT REQUIRED

FELL BACK CENTER AND SIDE

C02

SEW CENTER BACK

C03

SEW TAPE TO NECKLINE AND ARMHOLE

SNLS

301

BACK LINING
C04 C05 PLACE 2 BACK LINING PANELS RIGHT-TO-RIGHT SEW COMPLETE STITCH WORKING TABLE SNLS 301

C06

SEW PLEAT FROM INSIDE TILL 1 FROM TOP

SNLS

301

C07

SEW PLEAT FROM BOTTOM

SNLS

301

SECTION: (D) COLLAR


OPERATION NUMBER D01 D02 D03 D04 OPERATION NAME SEAM DIAGRAM MACHINE RECOMMENDED WORKING TABLE WORKING TABLE FUSING MACHINE SNLS 301 STITCH TYPE WORK-AID/ ATTACHMENT REQUIRED

MARK STITCH POSITIONS MARK COLLAR BOTTOM ON UPPER COLLAR FUSE LINING ON UPPER COLLAR ATTATCH BRAND LABEL

D05 D06

PLACE 2 COLLAR PIECES RIGHT-TORIGHT RUNSTITCH COLLAR

WORKING TABLE SNLS 301

D07 D08

CUT COLLAR POINTS TURN AND FORM COLLAR

WORKING TABLE AUTOMATIC COLLAR TURNING MACHINE FUSING TABLE WORKING TABLE

D09 D10

FUSE FUSIBLE TAPE ON COLLAR BOTTOM AND FORM COLLAR MARK GORGE LINE

Section E: Sleeve and Sleeve Lining


OPERATION NUMBER E01 OPERATION NAME SEAM DIAGRAM MACHINE RECOMMENDED SNLS STITCH TYPE 301 WORK-AID/ ATTACHMENT REQUIRED

SEW INSIDE OF SLEEVE

E02

E03

FUSE FUSIBLE INTRELINING ON SLEEVE MOUTH SEW OUTSIDE OF SLEEVE

FUSING MACHINE

SNLS

301

E04 E05

TURN SLEEVE SHIRR SLEEVE CUP

WORKING TABLE SNLS WITH DIFFERENT FEEDS/NORMAL SNLS SNLS 301

E06

SEW OUTSIDE THE SLEEVE LINING

301

E07

SEW INSIDE THE SLEEVE LINING

SNLS

301

E08 E09

FOLD SLEEVE LINING SEAM TURN SLEEEVE AND LINING SLEEVE INSIDE OUT

WORKING TABLE WORKING TABLE

E10 E11

PLACE LINING OVER SLEEVE WITH EXTRA STICH SLEEVE AND LINING

WORKING TABLE SNLS 301

E12 E13

TURN IT INSIDE OUT PRESS TO FORM PLEAT

WORKING TABLE IRONING TABLE

SECTION F: ASSEMBLY
OPERATION NUMBER F01 OPERATION NAME SEAM DIAGRAM MACHINE RECOMMENDED SNLS STITCH TYPE 301 WORK-AID/ ATTACHMENT REQUIRED

SEW FRONT FACING TO FRONT

F02 F03 F04 F05

CUT CORNER OF LAPEL,TURN AND FORM FRONT EDGE FOLD FRONT BOTTOM PRESS FROM THE EDGE BASTE SHOULDER PAD TO FRONT

WORKING TABLE TURNING MACHINE PRESSING TABLE SINGLE NEEDLE BASTING MACHINE

F06 F07 F08

MARK BUTTONHOLE POSITIONS MAKE SLIT PLACE BUTTONHOLE PIECE BETWEEN FRONT AND LAPEL

WORKING TABLE SCISSORS SNLS 301

F09

SEW AND TURN

SNLS

301

F10

SEW SHOULDER

SNLS

301

F11 F12

OPEN SHOULDER SEAM SEW SHOUDER OF LINING

WORKING TABLE SNLS/ZIGZAG LOCKSTICH 301

F13 F14 F15

FOLD SHOULDER OF LINING MARK COLLAR POSITION OF GORGE SEW COLLAR TO GORGE

WORKING TABLE WORKING TABLE SNLS (COMPENSATING PRESSURE CAN BE USED) WORKING TABLE BLINDSTICH MACHINE 301

F16 F17

CUT GORGE BLINDSTITCH UNDER COLLAR

F18

SEW SIDE

SNLS

301

F19 F20

OPEN SIDE SEAM SEW LINING SIDESEAMS AND FRONT LINING

PRESSING TABLE SNLS 301

F21

SEW SLEEVE

F22

MAKE WAD

SLEEVE ATTACHING MACHINE SNLS SNLS

301

F23

SEW WAD TO ARMHOLE

SLEEVE ATTACHING MACHINE SNLS SHOULDER PAD ATTACHING MACHINE /SNLS

301

F24

SEW SHOULDER PAD AND ARMHOLE

301

F25

SEW ARMHOLE LINING

SNLS

F26 F27 F28 F29 F30 F31

FASTEN ARMHOLE OPEN ABOUT 1 OF STITCH FROM CENTER FRONT OPEN ABOUT 2-3 OF LINING SIDE SEAM FROM ONE SIDE TURN THE JACKET INSIDE OUT PLACE THE LINING 1/4 AHEAD OF THE SHELL FABRIC SEW PLEAT FROM CENTER FRONT

SNLS WORKING TABLE WORKING TABLE WORKING TABLE WORKING TABLE SNLS

301

301

F32

F33

F34

SEW THE BOTTOM, LEAVING ABOUT 3-4 BETWEEN CENTER AND SIDE SEAM TURN THE JACKET AND FROM THE OPENING IN SIDE SEAM, SEW THE REMAINING BOTTOM BLIND STITCH THE OPENING IN SIDE SEAM

SNLS

301

SNLS

301

BLIND STITCHING MACHINE

103

SECTION G: FINISHING
OPERATION NUMBER G01 G02 G03 G04 OPERATION NAME SEAM DIAGRAM MACHINE RECOMMENDED WORKING TABLE WORKING TABLE WORKING TABLE DIFFERENT IRONONG MACHINES AND FORM FINISHERS JACKET FORM FINISHER WORKING TABLE MANUAL SHANK ATTACHING MACHINE STITCH TYPE WORK-AID/ ATTACHMENT REQUIRED

INSPECT HAND BLINDSTITCH BACK LINING AND SLEEVE TRIM THREAD PRESS DIFFERENT PARTS

G05 G06 G07

FINISHING IRON MARK BUTTON POSITIONS ATTACH SHANK BUTTONS TO FRONT AND SLEEVES