Prague: October - November 2009 October - November 2009

N53 - 100 K
www.inyourpocket.com
Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
PRAGUE
Velvet
Revolution
The 20th anniversary
Czech Spas
Relaxing all over the
country
October - November 2009
In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-
written series of guidebooks.
The New York Times
Hotel Absolutum
boutique hotel
in Prague
Jablonskho 639/4, 170 00 Praha 7
T:+420 222 541 406, F:+420 222 541 407
Email: booking@absolutumhotel.cz
www.absolutumhotel.cz
Hotel Absolutum is pleased to announce that pop and disco band
BONEY M. was a VIP guest.
For more information see www.absolutumhotel.cz
BONEY M.
5
CONTENTS
October - November 2009 prague.inyourpocket.com
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Arrival & Getting Around 8
Culture & Events 10
Theatre, Festivals
Velvet Revolution 15
Hotels - Where to stay 16
Whatever your budget or needs
Restaurants 24
Gul to gourmet and everything in between
Cafs 40
Historical slices of Czech life with cake
Czech Spas 42
Relaxing all over the country
Contents
Nightlife 54
Explore the depths of Pragues bars and clubs
Sightseeing
Essential sights 64
The castle, the bridge, the clock
Directory
Shopping 74
Business 75
Lifestyle 76
Adult entertaiment 81
Maps & Index
Street index 86
City centre map 87
City map 88-89
Index 90
Georg Baselitz Through 6 December
Ursula Schulz
6
Prague In Your Pocket
FOREWORD
prague.inyourpocket.com
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Editorial
Editor Jacy Meyer
Contributors Jacy Meyer,
Wendy Wrangham,
Jeroen van Marle
Layout & Design Tom Haman
Photos Jeroen van Marle,
Tom Haman, Wendy Wrangham,
Ursula Schulz, Robin Divila
Cover: Oleksandr Kolesnyk,
dreamstime.com
Sales & Circulation
General Manager Michal Jare
Sales Representatives
Klea Radeva - mob. 733 602 988
klea@inyourpocket.com
Michal Jare - mob. 721 810 520
michal.jares@inyourpocket.com
Publisher Craig Turp
Autumn is a difficult time for the Prague In Your Pocket
office. We are melancholy about the summers end; but
in a way looking forward to brisk days and colourful trees.
Luckily the excitement and action that is Prague comes
into full play these months, giving our minds something
else to dwell on besides the passing of long summer
evenings. Theres a plethora of new exhibits, shows and
festivals on right now; check out whats happening when
you are in town starting on Page 12.
We are a nature loving country; especially when it comes to
finding food in said nature. Last year, Czechs collected 2.75
billion Czech crowns from the woods. Thats not in lost mon-
ey; thats the approximate value of crops picked in the wild
vegetation. According to statistics, mushrooms are number
one and other forest fruits, like blueberries, raspberries,
etc. follow. If you do want to try this Czech experience, take
someone who knows what they are doing with you. Theres
a saying all mushrooms are good. Once.
Two holidays in October and November give Czechs a welcome
day off. October 28 is Czechoslovak Statehood Day. Strangely
celebrating the founding of a country that no long exists; under
Communism the holiday was called Nationalization Day and
celebrated the transfer of private property to the state. Be-
sides closure of shops and such, especially outside the centre,
President Vclav Klaus will most likely give a celebratory ad-
dress and wreathes will be placed at memorials. November 17
is always Freedom and Democracy Day; but this year its also
the 20th anniversary of the Velvet Revolution. Read our special
feature on this momentous event on Page 15.
Get out and enjoy the lovely Prague autumn; well be there
with you!
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright PIYP s.r.o.
2000-2009. Maps copyright
cartographer. All rights reserved. No part
of this publication may be reproduced
in any form, except brief extracts for
the purpose of review, without written
permission from the publisher and
copyright owner. The brand name In Your
Pocket is used under license from UAB
In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,
Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
Editors note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket
guides is independent from paid-for
advertising. Sponsored listings are
clearl y marked as such. We welcome all
readers comments and suggestions.
We have made every effort to ensure
the accuracy of the information at the
time of going to press and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
Prague In Your Pocket
V Jm 1, Praha 1, 110 00
Czech Republic
tel. +420 224 94 76 01
fax +420 224 94 86 51
prague@inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1213-2128
PIYP s.r.o.
Printed by Tisk Hork,
st nad Labem
Published six times per year
20,000 copies
Our team in Russia is preparing a rather special
In Your Pocket guide right now to tie in with the
1150th aniversary of the city of Veliky Novgorod.
Look out for a special supplement in our next Rus-
sian guides and online at russia.inyourpocket.
com. Elsewhere, you can now get your hands
on Sarajevo In Your Pocket when visiting the
Bosnian capital, and the same team - who have
successfully pocketed Slovenia and Bosnia - are
now turning their attention to Italy, and to Venice.
We welcome enquiries from anyone who would
like to take part in our Pocket Revolution, either
by contributing content or starting up an IYP. Send
us an email at publisher@inyourpocket.com.
Europe In Your Pocket
On our cover we feature the
beauti ful Baroque Valdtejnsk
zahrada or Wallenstein Gardens.
The bronze statues here arent
t he or i gi nal s; t hose wer e
borrowed by the Swedes at
the end of the Thirty Years War.
Experience this oasis of calm in
the heart of Mal Strana.
Cover story
Berlin city of change.
Twenty years after the Wall came
down, the city still pulsates with
history, creativity, variety and
diversity like nowhere else on
earth. This is what makes Berlin
truly unique.
To find out more, visit
www.mauerfall09.de
be open, be free, be berlin.
www.be.berlin.de
th
e
p
la
ce
to
b
e

fo
r
ch
a
n
g
e
.
8
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
9
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
4th Century
The present day Czech Republic was populated by Celts
and it was the Celtic Boii tribe who gave the country its
Latin name, Boiohaemum (Bohemia).
6th Century
The first Slavs travel from the east to the Prague area.
7th Century
According to legend a princess named Libue marries
a ploughman and founds the Premysl dynasty. She
prophesies that a great city will rise above the banks
of the Vltava.
10th Century
Vclav I, misleadingly later to be called the Good King
Wenceslas in the Christmas carol, is murdered by his
brother Boleslav. He becomes the countrys patron saint
and his feast day is celebrated on 28 Sept.
14th Century
In 1346 Charles IV is crowned King of Bohemia, and in
1348 he founds Charles University in Prague, the first
university in the Holy Roman Empire. Prague becomes the
largest city in Europe, with 40,000-50,000 inhabitants.
15th Century
On 6 July, 1415 the protestant reformer Jan Hus is burnt
at the stake. He becomes a martyr for the nationalist and
Protestant movement that adopts his name.
16th Century
In 1526 the Hapsburg Duke Ferdinand I is elected as
King of Bohemia. The dynasty will rule the Czech lands
until 1918.
20th Century
28 Oct, 1918 Following the defeat of Germany and
Austria, the Empire dissolves into several national states
and, Czechoslovakia finally becomes an independent
republic. Tom Masaryk becomes its first president.
15 Mar, 1939 The Wehrmacht invades and turns the
Czech lands and Moravia into a protectorate, while Slo-
vakia becomes an independent fascist state.
5 May, 1945 The Prague Uprising. Five thousand die in
four days of fierce fighting as the Czechs fight the Nazis
for the city. Prague is finally liberated by the Soviets.
Feb 1948 Assisted by the Soviet Army, the Czech Com-
munist party takes power. The country will remain under
the Soviet sphere of influence until 1989.
Prague Spring 1968 Communist Party chairman Alex-
ander Dubek makes efforts to establish Socialism with
a human face. This includes releasing political prisoners
and relaxing press censorship. His liberal ideals are
brutally repressed by the invasion of Warsaw pact troops
on the night of 20 Aug, 1968. In protest at the invasion
21 year old philosophy student Jan Palach sets himself
alight on the steps of the National Museum.
19 Nov, 1989 The Velvet Revolution 200,000 people de-
mand democracy in a demonstration in Wenceslas Square.
As crowds swell, the government gives in, and in 1990
former dissident Vclav Havel is elected head of state.
31 Dec, 1992 Dubbed The Velvet Divorce, Czechoslo-
vakia divides into two independent states, Slovakia and
the Czech Republic.
21st Century
Aug 2002 Floods devastate the country and cause chaos
and millions of crowns of damage as the Vltava rises.
1 May, 2004 The Czech Republic joins the European Union.
January-June 2009 Czech Republi c hol ds the EU
presidency.
November 2009 Country celebrates 20 years post-
Communism.
CZ: A brief history Arriving by Plane
Praha Ruzyn Airport, tel. (+420) 220 11 33 14, fax
(+420) 235 35 09 22, www.csl.cz. Prague's airport is 20km
from the city centre. A taxi to the town centre now costs around
600Keven if you call a company to pick you up or talk to one of
the representatives from reputable AAA. Don't pick one up from
outside the terminal (click here for taxi firms). Alternatively, use
the EDAZ minibus service (tel. 220 11 42 96, 05:30 - 21:30)
that runs every half hour between the airport and Nmst
Republiky (F-2). Tickets cost 90K (including one piece of bag-
gage, children under 10 free) and can be bought from the driver
or from the booth in the arrival terminal. For an extra fee, EDAZ
can also pick you up or drop you off at your hotel.
The cheapest way to get into town is on by bus: N119 (2-8
times per hour between 04:18 and 00:10 with at least one
wheelchair-friendly bus per hour) runs between the airport and
the Dejvick metro station (Line A, green) in about 20 minutes.
From Dejvick it is just five stops to Muzeum in the centre of
town. Bus N100 whisks you to Zlin (metro Line B, yellow)
from the airport in 13 minutes. There is a new Airport Express
(AE) bus from Holeovice which runs every half an hour, whiz-
zing you across the city in half an hour, whether you are arriving
or departing. Special fares apply to this bus, tickets can only
be bought from the driver and do not allow any transfers or
other forms of transport. Tickets are 45/25K, dogs 25K
and luggage is free. First & last buses from Holeovice 05:15
& 21:45, from the airport 04:40 & 21:10.
A 26K transport ticket (plus a 18K one for big bags) will
get you all the way into town or to the airport on all public
transport except the Airport Express. Tickets can be bought
at the friendl y transport information desk in both arrival halls
(open 07:00 - 22:00) or from the coin-operated machine at
the airport bus stop, but not from the driver. You need to
validate the ticket (once for the whole trip) in the machines
on board the bus.
Prague's new Terminal North 2 will allow for at least 4 mil-
lion more passengers a year to travel into Prague with the
ability to continue expansion. New bars, restaurants, shops
and services pl y their trade in this terminal which accom-
modates flights to and from Schengen countries (Austria,
Belgium, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, Ital y,
Greece, Luxembourg, Netherlands, Norway, Portugal, Greece,
Spain & Sweden).
There is a left luggage facil ty at the airport which doesn't
close and costs 60K per item per day.
Arriving by Train
Prague has two main railway stations. Praha Hlavn ndra
(main station, tel. 224 61 52 49) is architecturally fabulous (in
the Jugendstil tradition) although you wont know it until you exit
its underground nightmare. However massive reconstruction
has been going on, and if youve been here before youll see the
obvious improvements. Ticket windows move randomnly, as do
other services, so watch the signs. The work is scheduled to be
completed in 2010. There is a tourist office (open 09:00 - 19:00.
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00) in the centre of the lower hall of the two
levels. For your best money exchange deal, use the ATM on the
far left of the lower hall. Train information can currently be found
in the lower left of the hall as well as to the left of the middle
passageway to the platforms. Left luggage (schova) lockers
are available. Getting to town involves one stop on the metro to
Muzeum or a dangerous walk up busy Wilsonova.
The second station, Praha Holeovice (tel. 224 61 58 65), is
used by trains on the main Berlin - Prague - Vienna/Bratislava
route. The small hall holds the ticket office (open 09:00 - 17:00,
closed Sat, Sun), left luggage lockers, an internet caf and
several exchange and accommodation offices (open 06:00 -
23:00). It is three stops on the metro to Muzeum.
There are two classes on international trains, and prices
vary according to length of journey and class; expect to pay
one third more for first class tickets. For multilingual, quick
and friendly service, avoid the queues at the hlavn ndra
counters and buy your ticket at Wasteels or at the CR agency.
Arriving by Bus
Florenc Bus Station J-3, Praha 8, Kikova 4, tel.
(+420) 900 14 44 44, www.idos.cz. Most international
buses arri ve at Prague's central Florenc bus station (Auto-
busov ndra Praha Florenc, open 05:00 - 23:00), which
is also the watering hole of several endemic species li ving
solel y on alcohol. For information on bus times inquire at
window N8 (open 06:00 - 21:00). Al ternati vel y, use the
handy computer in front of window N8 to search for your
speci fic bus from the timetables online at the excellent
www.idos.cz, which searches all forms of land transport.
Window N6 (open 05:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 19:00, Sun
09:00 - 19:30) sells tickets for the ever popular Czech
National Express (esk Nrodn Expres) buses to Brno.
The kiosk between window N4 and 5 (open 07:00 - 18:00,
Sat 07:00 - 15:00, Sun 08:30 - 15:30) is an exchange office
and also sells public transport tickets, maps and guides.
The nearest ATM is at Florenc metro station, which is
next to the bus station.
Eurolines J-3, Praha 8, Kikova 6 (Florenc bus station),
tel. (+420) 224 21 86 80, www.bei.cz. The main European
bus operator. They also sell various travel passes. QOpen
08:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.
Car rental
Avis I-3, Praha 1, Klimentsk 46, tel. (+420) 221 85
12 25, fax (+420) 221 85 12 29, www.avis.cz. QOpen
08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Budget E-1, Praha 1, nm. Curierovch 5 (InterConti-
nental Hotel), tel. (+420) 296 63 09 95, fax (+420) 222
31 95 95, www.budget.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Airport
office, tel. 220 11 32 53, open 08:00 - 22:00. Reservation
centre tel. 235 32 57 13. A
Hertz H-5, Praha 2, Karlovo nm. 15, tel. (+420) 225 34
50 31, fax (+420) 225 34 50 39, www.hertz.cz. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00. Also at Praha 6, Evropsk 15 (Diplomat Hotel),
tel. 225 34 50 41, open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat & Sun.
Airport office tel. 225 34 50 21, open 08:00 - 22:00.
Taxis
AAA - Radiotaxi, tel. (+420) 222 33 32 22, www.
aaa-radiotaxi.cz. The most reputable company in town.
Ordering by SMS is possible at tel. 606 99 90 69 but requires
preregistration.
Airport Cars P.O.Box 100, 160 08 Praha 6, tel. (+420)
220 11 38 92, www.airport-cars.cz. The sil ver cars with
AVIS stickers waiting outside the airport arrivals hall charge
650K for a ride to the city centre. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.
Prague Airport Shuttle, www.prague-airport-shuttle.
com. QN
Prague Airport Transfers, tel. (+420) 800 87 08 88,
www.prague-airport-transfers.co.uk.
Travel agencies
Euroagentur Praha Praha 10, K Horkm 23, tel.
(+420) 271 09 08 31, fax (+420) 271 75 02 74, www.
euroagentur.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Mary's Travel & Tourist Services J-5, Praha 2, Italsk
31, tel. (+420) 222 25 40 07, www.marys.cz.QOpen
08:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
Pragues public transport system (Dopravn podnik) is
efficient, fast and reasonably clean. With three metro
lines, 26 tram routes and 9 night trams you wont need
the bus routes that avoid the centre. Keep in mind that
the centre of Prague is easily accessible on foot.
Tickets, valid for all means of transport, can be pur-
chased from the numerous vending machines at all
metro stations, major tram stops and news stands.
You always need to validate your ticket yourself by
stamping it in the machines at metro entrances and on
trams. The most common ticket is the 26K transfer
ticket, which is valid for 75 minutes after validating (90
minutes between 22:00 and 05:00, on weekends and
public holidays). The 18K non-transfer ticket is meant
for tram rides under 20 minutes with no changes, or in
the metro for up to 5 stations (changes allowed) from
the departure station within 30 minutes. We suggest
you save yourself time by buying a handful of these on
arrival. If youre planning to stay a bit and explore, get the
one-day pass (100K), a three-day pass (330K) or a
five-day pass (500K). Children under 6 travel free; and
tickets are half price up to 15 years old. Large pieces of
luggage (including rucksacks) cost an extra 13K while
dogs ride the rails for 26K. Fines for no validated tickets
are 500K if paid on the spot or pay 1,000K later.
The funicular railway and night tram tickets are 26K.
Trams trundle around town
every few minutes; useful
lines are N22 and 23 which
run from the centre up to
the rear entrance of the
castle, saving you the uphill
walk. The metro connects
the two main train stations
and Florenc bus station to
the centre and runs up to
j ust after midni ght, after
which the night trams (the
warm mobile home to many a smelly tramp) take over,
zipping in all directions from the Lazarsk stop (H-5)
every half hour. Tram information is on the red signs at
each stop and is generally correct assuming of course
that some worn out koda hasnt died on the tram lines.
Beware of Pragues ultra-professional pickpockets,
especially on trams N22 and 23 and in busy metro cars;
consider waiting for the next train if it looks squeezed.
For more information visit Dopravn podniks excellent
website with English and German information on routes
and schedules, at www.dpp.cz, or call tel. 222 62 37 77.
Travel Information Centre I-5,, MMuzeum, tel.
(+420) 296 19 18 17 (07:00 - 21:00), www.dpp.cz.
All you ever wanted to know about routes, tariffs, tickets,
timetables, re-routings and service disruptions, maps
and general information about Pragues bus, tram and
metro system from friendl y, mul ti-lingual folk. Apart from
the airport offices, these are found at the metro stations.
QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. Also at E-4, Mstek, Jungmannovo
nm., open 07:00 - 18:00, closed Sat & Sun; Andl, open
07:00 - 18:00, closed Sat & Sun; Prague Airport terminals
1 & 2, open 07:00 - 22:00.
Public Transport
10
CULTURE & EVENTS
11
CULTURE & EVENTS
Prague is something of a cultural Mecca, and not just be-
cause of the affordable tickets. There was always a lively
tradition here (Mozart was celebrated as a hero in Prague
while shunned in Vienna), and the influx of culture-hungry
tourists in the past decade has led to an enormous variety
of concerts. Tickets are best and easiest booked via the
ticket agencies. Remember, going to the theatre or opera
is still something of an event in Prague, and its courteous
to dress up when visiting.
Black Light Theatre
A Prague speciality; fluorescent mime actors and puppets
moving in front of a black background. Great for children,
and for adults too.
Al l Col our s Theatr e E- 4, Praha 1, Ryt sk
31, MMstek, tel. (+420) 221 61 01 73, www.
blacktheatre.cz. Ti ckets 450K. Q Per formances
star t at 20:30.
Animato F-3, Praha 1, Na Pkop 10, MMstek, tel.
(+420) 281 93 26 65, www.volny.cz/black.theatre.
Tickets 430K. Q Performances start at 20:30.
Image Black Theatre E-1, Praha 1, Pask 4,
MStaromstsk, tel. (+420) 222 31 44 58, www.
imagetheatre.cz. Tickets 480K. Q Performances start
at 20:00.
Ji Srnec Black Light Theatre D-4, Praha 1, Nrodn
20, tel. (+420) 721 58 92 44, www.blacktheatresrnec.
cz. Tickets 520K. Q Performances start at 19:30.
Metro Theatre D-4, Praha 1, Nrodn tda 25,
MNrodn tda, tel. (+420) 221 08 52 76, www.
blacktheatreprague.cz. Tickets 440K. The performance
is followed by a workshop and lasts about 80 minutes. Q
Performances start at 20:00.
Palace Theatre I-4, Praha 1, Vclavsk nm. 43,
MMstek, tel. (+420) 224 22 88 14, www.palacethe-
atre.cz. Tickets 140 - 340K. Q Performances start at 20:00.
Ta Fantastika D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 8, MStaromstsk,
tel. (+420) 222 22 13 66, www.tafantastika.cz. Tickets
700K. Q Performances start at 21:30.
WOW Show (Theater Blanik) I-4, Praha 1, Vaclavske
namesti 56, MMstek, tel. (+420) 224 03 21 72, info@
wow-show.com, www.wow-show.com. Tickets 550K. Q
Performances start at 20:00.
Cinema
Multiplex cinemas are big business, although the smaller,
older independents survive on their quirky, less Hollywood-
dictated programmes and cheaper tickets. Village, Palace
and City Cinemas are the more expensive multiplexes (159
- 199K) although there is discount Monday, Tuesday &
Wednesday, with tickets for 109K - see below for details.
Czech and other non-English language films are not usually
subtitled in English, but we do have access to more titles now.
English language films are usually subtitled, except kids films
which are dubbed. For listings see www.expats.cz.
Aero Praha 3, Biskupcova 31, tel. (+420) 271 77 13 49,
www.kinoaero.cz. A cool little arthouse cinema in ikov;
tram N9 to Biskupcova. Q Tickets 40 - 95K.
Cinema City Flra Praha 3, Vinohradsk 149, MFlra,
tel. (+420) 255 74 20 21, www.cinemacity.cz. Includes
an IMAX theatre. Q Tickets 159K, Tue 109K. Also at
Galaxie, Arkal yck 1; Zlin, evnick 1.
Lucerna I-4, Praha 1, Vodikova 36, MMstek, tel.
(+420) 224 21 69 72, www.multikino.cz. Apparentl y
the longest-running cinema in Prague with Czech and English
language films. A classic.
Palace Cinemas Slovansk Dm F-3, Praha 1, Na
Pkop 22, tel. (+420) 257 18 12 12, www.palaceci-
nemas.cz. Popular city-centre mul tiplex, which is often the
onl y cinema wi th English language versions of films other
cinemas show dubbed. Q Tickets 159K, Wed 109K. Also
at Letany, Veselsk 663; Nov Smchov, Plzesk 8; Park
Hostiva, vehlova 32.
Ponrepo D-4, Praha 1, Bartolomjsk 11, MNrodn
tda, tel. (+420) 224 23 32 81, www.sweb.cz/mjos/
ponrepo/index.html. The official theatre of the National Film
Archive and membership can be bought from 14.00 - 18.00
Mon - Fri for 150/100K.
Svtozor I-4, Praha 1, Vodikova 41, MMstek, tel.
(+420) 224 94 75 66, www.kinosvetozor.cz. An arthouse
cinema showing classic, current and less mainstream movies,
plus Czech movies with English subtitles. Q Tickets 100/50K.
Village Cinemas Andl Praha 5, Radlick 1E, MAndl,
tel. (+420) 251 11 51 11, www.villagecinemas.cz. An-
other cinema complex, this one has an European art house
cinema and Gold Class, where you sit in armchairs and can
eat and drink to your hearts content. Q Tickets 159K, Mon
109K. Also at Village Cinemas ern most.
Concerts & Opera
The architecture is superb, but be sure to catch this as-
pect that has added to Pragues fame, her music. Mozart
wasnt wrong to embrace Prague as fervently as Prague
embraced Mozart.
Municipal House F-3, Praha 1, Nm. Republiky 5, tel.
(+420) 222 00 21 21, www.obecni-dum.cz. Housing a
variety of halls, the stunning Art Nouveau Obecn dm is the
venue for many classical concerts. Outside, youll al ways find
dressed-up people selling tickets for the best of Mozart-type
shows, which can be great as theyre usuall y well performed,
and good for children too as theyre not too long. Q Booking
office open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets 200 - 1,300K.
State Opera I-4, Praha 1, Wilsonova 4, tel. (+420) 224
22 72 66, www.opera.cz. A fabulous neo-Rococo pile quite
unfortunately wedged between the station, National Museum
and two busy roads. Buil t in 1888 for Pragues German
Theatre Association, i t is worth a visi t for the glamorous
gold-and-plush interior and the view of the sumptuous ceiling
alone. Operas are usuall y performed in the original language,
with Czech or English subtitles projected above the stage.
For tours of the building, contact Pragues tourist office. Q
Booking office open 10:00 - 17:30; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 12:00,
13:00 - 17:30. Tickets 100 - 1,150K.
Stavovsk divadlo (Estates Theatre) E-3, Praha 1,
Ovocn trh 1, tel. (+420) 224 22 85 03, www.narodni-di-
vadlo.cz. The first theatre to be built in Prague, and it was also
here that Mozarts Don Giovanni made its debut to a rapturous
Czech audience; the opera was destined to bomb in Vienna.
Q Booking office open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets 30 - 1,000K.
Klementinum D-3, Praha 1, Kiovnick 2, tel. (+420)
221 66 32 60, www.klementinum.cz. The beautiful build-
ing is home to some good classical music concerts in sublime
grounds. Plus now, the Codex Gigas or Devils Bible is on
show until Jan 6, 2008. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
Performances start at 18:00 unless otherwise specified.
Karln Music Theatre Praha 8, Kikova 10, tel.
(+420) 221 86 87 77, objednavky@hdk.cz, www.hdk.cz.
The theatre has a long history in the city; its first performance
was the circus back in 1881. Fast forward to the floods of
2002 which saw the historic building practicall y destroyed.
The theatre reopened in 2006 and has been hosting a string
of popular musicals ever since. Q 230-700 K.
Village Gold Class Cinemas
are the top, the ultimate,
the very best cinemas
youll ever experience.
Modern
art cinema
14 cinemas
Parking
Comfortable
cinema
Radlick 3179/1E, Praha 5 - Smchov
goldclass.cz villagecinemas.cz
Youre ushered into your
seats complete with a private
table by your side. The lights
dim, and the lm begins...
ZDENK SKORA
KAREL MALICH
LINES
AND
WIRES
A DIALOGUE
OCTOBER 2, 2009
JANUARY 10, 2010
Museum Kampa Jan and Meda Mladek Foundation
U Sovovch mln 503/2, 118 00 Praha 1
www.museumkampa.cz
Museum Kampa is a unique cultural conglomeration for
Prague. Their focus is Central European art showcased
through both their permanent collection and temporary
exhibits. The permanent collections include works by
Frantiek Kupka and Otto Gutfreund, while currently on
is Zdenk Skora and Karel Malich - Lines and Wires: A
Dialogue. The exhibit is based on the evolution of both
artists over the past 20 years. For each painting by
Skora there will be a wired object by Malich.
The museum is housed in a 10th century flour mill called
Sovas Mills that has served a wide range of interests before
finally settling on being a museum in 2003. The mill, situated
on the Vltava River near Charles Bridge, has always been a
dominate aspect of the riverbank and architects carefully
reconstructed the historic building. The museum is due
in large part to the generous art donation from Jan and
Meda Mldek, who donated their collection of more than
700 pieces to the City of Prague in order for it to be prop-
erly displayed, cared for and seen. What makes Museum
Kampa a cultural meeting point is their educational arm
which offers lectures (often in English or with translation
assistance available) and workshops for kids.
Museum Kampa, Praha 1, U Sovovch mln 2, 257
28 61 47, www.museumkampa.cz. Admission prices:
Short-term exhibitions & permanent displays: 160 K;
Skora - Malich exhibition: 80 K; Permanent exhibition
of Central European art; Kupka and Gutfreund: 120 K.
Open daily 10:00-18:00.
Museum Kampa
12
CULTURE & EVENTS
13
CULTURE & EVENTS
Belgium as well as performances from Israel, Mali and
New Zealand. For speci fic shows and more information,
visit www.ctyridny.cz.
Where? Five venues: Divadlo Archa, Praha 1, Na Po 26,
archatheatre.cz; La Fabrika, Praha 7, Komunard 30, lafabrika.cz,
Alfred ve dvoe theatre, Praha 7, Frantika Kka 36, alfredvedvore.
cz, Former Federal Parliament building, Praha 1, Vinohradsk 1,
www.nm.cz and Hala Alta, Praha 7, U Vstavit 23.
Guitar Across Styles
18 October 28 November
An International Acoustic Guitar Festival in its 12th year in
Prague! Had no idea, did ya? Well, strummin fans; this one
is definitely for you: all genres, played on all acoustic guitars;
by guitarists from all over the world. Theres no one venue;
concerts are scattered in venues around Prague and indeed
the country. But for a different evening of musical enjoyment,
this is definitely your best bet.
Where? Concer t hal l s across the ci ty; check www.
kytaranapriczanry.cz for more details or email: standa.
barek@volny.cz.
Prague Accordion Days
29 October 1 November
Guitars not your style? No worries; the international festival
for harmonica and accordion ensembles and orchestras
is playing this month too! Amateur ensembles, orchestras,
accordion and harmonica friends from around the world are
here to entertain.
Where? Concert halls across the city; check www.accordion.
cz for more details or email: cta@iol.cz.
The Duncan Centre Conservatory Praha 4, Branick
41, tel. (+420) 244 46 13 42, www.duncanct.cz. Con-
temporary dance theatre and school.
Exhibits
Jan erch: Ano
Through 8 November
This young Prague conceptual artist puts on a one-man
show at the Ol d Town Hal l. Known for hi s bl urri ng of
geometric tendencies, his work is an abstract construction
of symmetrical typographic shapes. This exhibit is being
described as mathematical sets made up of elements
of emotion.
Where? Ci ty Gal l ery Prague, Ol d Town Hal l, Praha 1,
Staromstsk nmst 1, 224 48 27 51, www.ghmp.cz.
Closed Mondays.
Georg Baselitz
Through 6 December
Experimental German painter Georg Baselitzs work can
be seen in the fabulous Rudol finum space right now. His
compositions are curious; and this exhibition displays a wide
view of his work from 1960-2008. A changing perception,
while attempting to hold on to reality is evident in this
painters style. His creativity of style and technique breathes
new life into the art of painting.
Where? Galerie Rudul finum, Praha 1, Alovo nbe 12,
227 059 205, www.galerierudolfinum.cz. Closed Mondays
Entropa
Through 4 January
The art exhibit that sent shock waves through Brussels
during the Czech Republics European Union presidency is
now on display in Prague. Local bad boy David ern is known
for his controversial art displays, so it should have come as
no surprise when he revealed this installation. Supposedly
designed by 27 artists, each representing an EU country, and
meant to challenge the stereotypes associated with each
particular country; it was actually conceived by ern and
some of his friends. The problem? Some of the countries
took offense as to how their state was portrayed, including
Bulgaria, whose portion of the exhibit was covered during
the installations stay in Brussels. Go see for yourself if it
was worth all the fuss.
Where? DOX Centre for Contemporary Art, Praha 7,
Pouptova 1, 774 14 54 34, www.doxprague.org. Closed
Tuesdays.
Bohemia Ticket International F-3, Praha 1, Na
Pkop 16, tel. 224 21 50 31, www.ticketsbti.cz.
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 -
15:00. Also at (E-3) Praha 1, Mal nm. A
Ticket Art I-4, Praha 1, Politickch vz 9, tel. 222
89 75 52, www.ticket-art.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00,
Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Ticketpro E-3, Praha 1, Rytsk 12, tel. 296 32 99
99, www.ticketpro.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. A
Ticketstream I-6, Praha 2, Koubkova 8, tel. 224 26
30 49, www.ticketstream.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sun. A
Tickets
In August, the National Museum opened a new building;
right next door to their current digs at the top of Vclavsk
nmst. What was originally built to house the Federal
Parliament in 1966 became the home of Radio Free
Europe/Radio Liberty in 1993. Barricades and security
guards were a constant presence; but now that RFE/
RL has moved to new digs in Prague 10, the space is
opened up and free (mainly to traffic.) Its quite a contrast
to its 19th century sister building, the massive icon of
Prague. You can see this important bit of Czech history
and architecture thanks to guided tours currently running
all day, every day. They are in Czech but most of the
guides should speak English, and an English audio guide
is available as well (included in the admission price.) The
museum shop and caf is partially furnished with original
Parliament furniture, so sit back with a cuppa and state
a new law. Currently, the building is nameless; its being
referred to either as the former Federal Parliament
building or the new National Museum building. However,
excitement is in the air, as the naming of the new building
was left up to public suggestions. Museum officials said
they had received more than 600 proposals, but havent
chosen one yet. Supposedly, the finalists will also be
chosen by the public and the new moniker is set to be
revealed in November.
Where? Vinohradsk 1, Praha 1, 224 497 430, www.
nm.cz
Guided Tours: The museum is open daily from 10:00-
18:00. On Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, tours are
held every 30 minutes; Monday-Friday tours are every
hour. You can reserve a spot for an 11:00 or 15:00
tour only, by phoning or emailing at least three days
in advance: 224 49 74 30, info@audioguide.cz. Cost
is 80 K.
New National Museum Building Happenings
Strings of Autumn Music Festival
Until 20 November
Jazz & classi cs; tradi ti onal & experi mental; youll fi nd
i t all at this di verse festi val. Organisers stri ve to bring
together seemingl y incompati bl e musi cal styl es, and i t
al ways works out well. The festi val began as a seri es
of programmes back i n 1996 and has si nce grown
to be a maj or festi val on the ci tys cul tural cal endar.
Stri ngs of Autumn often commi ssi ons new work and
wi th their three themes being Inspiration, Crossover
and Lumi nari es al l attendees are sure to di scover
something rousing this season. Ti ckets can be bought
onl i ne at the festi vals websi te, www.strunypodzi mu.
cz, or in person at the National Theatres ti cket of fi ce,
Praha 1, Ostrovn 1, 224 901 247. Book in advance; they
sell out qui ckl y.
Venues: Czech Museum of Music, Praha 1, Karmelitsk
2; Rudol fi num, Praha 1, Al ovo nbe 12; Prague
Crossroads, Praha 1, Liliov entrance is from Zlat street;
Estates Theatre, Praha 1, Ovocn trh 1; La Fabrika, Praha
7, Komunard 30, Trade Fair Palace, Cinema ARTminus,
Praha 7, Dukelskch hrdin 47. For more information visit
www.strunypodzimu.cz.
8 October: Echoes of Home; Czech Museum of Music, 19:30
15 October: Ondej Pivec; La Fabrika, 19:30
21 October: Gil Shaham; Prague Crossroads; 19:30
31 October: Cassandra Wilson; Rudolfinum; 19:30
4 November: Enoch Arden performed by Michael York & Libor
Novek; Rudolfinum; 19:30
10 November: 415 versus 422; Rudolfinum; 19:30
15 November: Astillero Tango; Estates Theatre; 19:30
20 November: Ludovico Einaudi; Rudolfinum; 19:30
Four Days in Motion International Theatre Festival
9-16 October
Now i n i ts 14th year, Four Days i n Moti on presents
contemporar y and i nnovati ve theatre proj ects wi th
theatre troupes from around the world. Known not only
for their theatre work but also the unique locales where
they choose to show that work (think former sewage plant
one year, factory another year); this year theyve added
the former Parliament Building to the list. Four Days in
Motion is an anything goes avant-garde mess of a week.
We love it! This year you can experience a pop opera from
Puppet theatre
Prague is famous for puppets, and these shows make a
great night out as language is not usually a barrier.
Divadlo Minor I-4, Praha 1, Vodikova 6, tel. (+420)
222 23 17 02, www.minor.cz. Tickets 30-80K. QOpen
09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 20:00.
e loutek D-2, Praha 1, ateck 1, tel. (+420) 222
32 45 65, www.riseloutek.cz.
National Marionette Theatre D-2, Praha 1, ateck
1, tel. (+420) 224 81 93 22, www.mozart.cz.
Theatre
Divadlo Alfred ve dvoe I-1, Praha 7, Fr. Kka 36,
tel. (+420) 233 37 69 97, www.alfredvedvore.cz. A
small theatre specialising in moving, visual and experimental
theatre and dance, with several performances that can be
enjoyed by non-Czech speakers. Ticket office and bar opens
an hour before each performance.Q All performances are at
20:00 unless specified otherwise. Advance bookings at Praha
1, Celetn 17; BIO OKO Bar, Praha 7, Fr. Kka 15 & Praha 2,
Pol pt, Dittrichova 13. Tickets 150/90K.
Divadlo Archa J-3, Praha 1, Na Po 26, tel. (+420)
221 71 61 11, fax (+420) 221 716 666, www.archa-
theatre.cz. Affecti onatel y known as the al ternati ve
National Theatre, Archa has done wonders for Pragues
cul tural scene. I ts not necessaril y an English theatre,
however their eclectic line-up often transcends language
barriers. Check their websi te - you never know what ad-
di tional i tems of interest, including concerts, theyll have
on tap. All shows at 20:00 unl ess other wise listed Q
Performances start at 20:00 unless stated otherwise.
PTAEGKW
Divadlo Hybernia F-3, Praha 1, nm. Republiky 4, tel.
(+420) 221 41 94 12, www.divadlo-broadway.cz. Dat-
ing back to the reign of Charles IV, this building was recentl y
refurbished and now provides a home to Golem, a musical
of the Jewish legend, which plays dail y with English subtitles.
NB Rows 1-6 & 32-33 are not good for viewing the subtitles.
Q Tickets 599 - 799K. Box office open 10:00 - 02:00. Per-
formances at 19:00. 15:00 & 19:00 Sat & 15:00 Sun. PA
Divadlo na Prdle B-4, Praha 1, Besedn 3, tel. (+420)
257 32 04 21, www.napradle.cz.. Small theatre space with
rather good cafe that hosts the Prague Fringe and others.
Divadlo Ponec Praha 3, Husitsk 24, tel. (+420) 222
72 15 31, www.divadloponec.cz.
Laterna Magika C-4, Praha 1, Nrodn 4, tel. (+420)
222 22 20 41, www.laterna.cz. Laterna Magika developed
a new way of combining theatre, dance, music and film for
the 1958 Brussels Expo, and was doing mul ti-media perfor-
mances before the word even existed. All productions are
visually orientated with no spoken Czech - ideal for foreigners.
Q Performances start at 20:00. Tickets 735K.
National Theatre C-4, Praha 1, Nrodn tda 2, tel.
(+420) 224 90 16 68, www.narodni-divadlo.cz. Pragues
most beautiful riverside building hosts a weal th of perfor-
mances, mostl y concerts and opera. Find the booking office
in the modernist glass building next door. Q Booking office
open 10:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 12:30, 15:00 - 18:30.
vandovo divadlo Praha 5, tefnikova 57, tel. (+420)
234 65 11 11, www.svandovodivadlo.cz. Local and
international plays, both classic and contemporary; al ways
something interesting going on at vandovo. They offer
English subtitles on screens above the stage, so your best
bet are seats in the balcony. Weve listed the plays going on
in February, but visi t their websi te for other dramatic and
occasionall y musical interests. All shows at 19:00 unless
otherwise listed.
14
CULTURE & EVENTS
15
VELVET REVOLUTION
Jerry Lee Lewis
9 November
Shake, rattl e and roll, peopl e! Mr. Jerry Lee Lewis will
be thumpin the keys in Prague tonight. Tickets can be
purchased through Ticketportal, www.ticketportal.cz. Show
starts at 19:00.
Where? Tesla Arena, Praha 7, Za Elektrrnou 419, www.
tesla-arena.cz
Tom Jones
10 November
Wow if you are in town this week how much more lucky
could you be? Back to back shows of Jerry Lee Lewis and
Tom Jones! Pardon us while we take a deep breath and get
prepared to toss our undies. Show starts at 20:00; tickets
can be purchased via email at info@sazkaticket.cz.
Where? O2 Arena, Praha 9, Ocelsk Street No. 460/2,
www.o2arena.cz
vandovo divadlo, Praha 5, tefnikova 57, www.
svandovodivadlo.cz
All listed shows are in Czech with English subtitles. The
subtitles are printed on a screen above the stage so
sit in the balcony for the best view. Showtime is 19:00.
1, 31 October: Much Ado About Nothing
2, 29 October: Elton Johns Glasses
5, 7, 17, October: The Boss of it All
9, 27 October: Casanova in the Spa
10, 21 October: A Month in the Country
12 October: The Beggars Opera
14 October: The School for Wives
19 October: Masquerade
23 October: The Mandrake
Karln Music Theatre
Praha 8, Kikova 10, 221 86 86 66, www.hdk.cz
Musicals with English subtitles. Carmen shows at 19:00;
Polish Blood at 15:00.
1, 2, 37, 8, 9, 10, 14, 15, 16, 17, 21, 22, 23, 24, 29, 30,
31 October: Carmen
4, 11, 18, 25 October: Polish Blood
1, 8, 15, 22, 29 November: Polish Blood
4, 5, 6, 7, 11, 12, 13, 14, 18, 19, 20, 21, 25, 26, 27, 28
November: Carmen
English Theatres
Football
Well, it is off to a slow start for our first league Prague
teams. Slavia is doing the best at third, while Sparta is
languishing down in seventh. Newly promoted Bohemians
1905? Well, lets just say the season is young! Winter
break begins in December, so thats a good two months
to get into form. Tickets can usually be bought day of;
walk up, walk in and enjoy!
Sparta AXA Arna, Praha 7, Milady Horkov 98,
www.sparta.cz
17 October: vs. SK Dynamo . Budjovice, 18:00
31 October: vs. FC Bank Ostrava, 18:00
14 November: vs. FC Slovan Liberec, 18:00
Bohemians 1905 olek stadin, Praha 10,
Vrovick 31, www.fc-bohemians.cz
18 October: vs. FC Slovcko, 17:00
1 November: vs. Slovan Liberec, 17:00
8 November: vs. Pbram, 17:00
22 November: vs. Sparta Praha, 17:00
FK Viktoria ikov Stadin Viktorky, Praha 3,
Seifertova, www.fkvz.cz
4 October: vs. FC Graffin Vlaim, 10:15
25 October: vs. FK Bank Sokolov, 10:15
8 November: vs. Slezsk FC Opava, 10:15
Slvia Stadin Eden, Praha 10, Vladivostock 10,
www.slavia.cz
4 October: vs. Sparta Praha, 17:00
25 October: vs. SK Sigma Olomouc, 17:00
8 November: vs. FC Viktoria Plzen, 17:00
22 November: vs. FC Brno, 17:00
Ice Hockey
Sparta Tesla Arena, Praha 7, Za Elektrrnou 419,
www.hcsparta.cz
2 October: vs. Kladno, 18:00
9 October: vs. Vtkovice, 18:00
16 October: vs. Kometa Brno, 18:00
18 October: vs. Slavia, 18:10
25 October: vs. Zln, 17:00
1 November: vs. Tinec, 17:00
13 November: vs. Litvnov, 18:00
17 November: vs. Plze, 18:00
20 November: vs. . Budjovice, 18:00
Slavia O2 Arena, Praha 9, Ocelsk 2, www.
hc-slavia.cz
4 October: vs. Zln, 17:00
6 October: vs. Mlad Boleslav, 18:15
11 October: vs. Karlovy Vary, 17:00
20 October: vs. . Budjovice, 18:15
23 October: vs. Kladno, 18:15
1 November: vs. Vtkovice, 17:00
22 November: vs. Mlad Boleslav, 17:00
24 November: vs. Tinec, 18:15
Sports
Th i s Nov e mb e r ma r k s
t he 20t h anni ver sar y of
Czechosl ovaki a s Vel vet
Revolution. Following the lead
of thei r Eastern European
n e i g h b o u r s , c i t i z e n s
peacefully protested against
the Communist regime, and
successfull y removed them
from power.
The easing up of Communist policies actually came from the
then-Soviet Union in the late 80s. Mikhail Gorbachev was
president, and he was introducing reforms in his own country.
Unfortunately for the Czechoslovakians, Gustav Husk, who
came to power following the Prague Spring uprising in 1968,
continued to push harsh Communist propaganda. By 1988,
there were regular protests demanding change.
Whats come to be known as the Velvet Revolution occurred
over a six week period from November 17 to December
29, 1989. November 17 was already an important date
in Czechoslovak history. Fi fty years ago, students held a
demonstration protesting the Nazi regime. Students again
took to the streets, this time in protest of a different oppressive
government. The protest began as a legal rally, but soon turned
into a demonstration demanding democratic reforms. Students
marching from the Czech National Cemetery in Vyehrad to
Vclavsk nmst were stopped by riot police at Nrodn
tda. In the ensuing stand-off, students offered flowers instead
of resistance to the officers, but the police responded with
beatings. Nearly 170 students were injured that day. At the
time, one student was reportedly beaten to death, a rumour
which proved to be false. That death however served to
mobilize support for the students and their demands amongst
the general public. In another blow to the governments control,
a number of workers unions also took up the students cause.
Mass demonstrations were held in Prague, Bratislava and
others cities around the country from November 18 27, when a
general strike was called. In theatres, instead of performances,
people gathered for public discussions. It was one of these
discussions on November 19, at Pragues inohern Klub that
the Civic Forum was founded. It was established as the official
spokesgroup for the segment of the Czechoslovak public which
is ever more critical of the policy of the present Czechoslovak
leadership. The Civic Forum was led by Vclav Havel, later to
become the countrys first democratically elected president.
The groups first demands were the resignation of the
Communist government, release of prisoners of conscience
and an investigation into the police action that had occurred
on November 17. In the Slovak part of the country a similar
action was taking place the founding of the Public Against
Violence group. Both groups immediately saw citizens joining
en masse; and not just students. Factory workers, university
staff and employees of a variety of other institutions were
getting involved in the cause. It took about two weeks for
the countrys media to begin broadcasting reports of what
was really going on in Prague, but in the meantime, students
began travelling to smaller cities and towns to rally support.
Despite the fact that their neighbouring Communist countries
had been seeing unrest and protests for some time, the
Czechoslovak government was totally unprepared for the
up swell of public support for the students cause. As mass
demonstrations continued and more and more people
supported the general strikes that were being called, an
extraordinary session of the Czechoslovak Communist Party
was called. The Presidium resigned, and a relatively unknown
member, Karel Urbnek was elected the new Communist
Party leader. This didnt sit well with the general public who
didnt see the change as true reform but merely a placation.
November 25 and 26 saw a massive demonstration of 750,000
people at Letn Park in Prague followed by the general strike
on November 27. These two acts were devastating to the
Communist regime. Prime Minister Ladislav Adamec held talks
with Vclav Havel who submitted a list of Civic Forum demands.
At their second meeting, Adamec agreed to form a new coalition
government. In addition the Constitution was to be amended
through the deleting of three articles: guarantee of a leading
role in political life for the Czechoslovak Communist Party and
for the National Front, and the directive of a Marxist-Leninist
education. These changes were unanimously approved by the
Communist parliament on November 29.
These initial allowances led to an increase in demands by the people.
A new government was formed by Marian alfa which included
only nine members of the Czechoslovak Communist Party, several
of whom had cooperated with the Civic Forum. The rest of the
government was made up of two members from the Czechoslovak
Socialist Party; two from the Czechoslovak Peoples Party and seven
ministers with no previous party affiliation, all of whom were either
members of the Civic Forum or Public Against Violence. President
Husk named this new government on December 10 and later that
day went on television to announce his resignation.
Political events moved swiftly; the parliament elected Vclav
Havel president on December 11 and he was elected by the
people in July 1990.
Vel vet Revolution Anniversary Events
20 Years Without the Curtain
17th November
This free event open to the public will commemorate the
1989 student march from Albertov to Nrodn tda. The
programme includes an afternoon procession, memorial
service and a concert by young Czech artists.
That Time in the East
From 28 October
Wondering how folks lived during Communism? This exhibit
aims to show the lives of ordinary people in Czechoslovakia
from 1948 - 1989.
Where? Stone Bell House, Praha 1, Staromstsk nmst
13, 224 82 75 26, www.ghmp.cz. Closed Mondays.
Be Free
From 17 November
An exhi bi ti on commemorati ng November 17, the 20th
anniversary of the fall of the iron curtain as well as events
from the 1950s to 1990s.
Where? National Museum, Praha 1, Vclavsk nmst 68,
224 49 71 11, www.nm.cz
After Velvet
From November 17
A new permanent exhibition at the Golden Ring House will
attempt to reflect on social, cultural and economic changes
that have taken place in the Czech Republic since 1989.
Several artistic generations (both artists working before
1989, as well as young artists that entered the scene post-
revolution) will display their views on this theme.
Where? Golden Ring House, Praha 1, Tnsk street 6, 224
82 70 22, www.ghmp.cz. Closed Mondays
Interested in visiting some of the important Velvet Revolution
sites? Read our Pocket Watch on Page 31.
When if not now?
Who if not us?
16
WHERE TO STAY
17
WHERE TO STAY
Grand Hotel Bohemia F-3, Praha 1, Krlodvorsk
4, MNm. Republiky, tel. (+420) 234 60 81 11, fax
(+420) 222 32 95 45, office@grandhotelbohemia.cz,
www.grandhotelbohemia.cz. An Austrian-run hotel wi th
attracti ve Art Nouveau rooms and staff who are renowned
for their efficiency. The hotel has a caf and laundry service.
Q78 rooms (10 singles 175 - 240, 65 doubles 210 -
280, 3 junior sui tes 310 - 540). PHARULGK
hhhhh
Grand Hotel Praha E-3, Praha 1, Staromstsk nm.
22, MStaromstsk, tel. (+420) 221 63 25 56, fax
(+420) 221 63 25 58, info@grandhotelpraha.cz, www.
grandhotelpraha.cz. Run by the Apostolic Residence crew,
the neighbouring Grand Hotel is an equall y sumptious place
to stay, with suitabl y grand views over Old Town Square and
classicall y furnished rooms. Q20 rooms (1 single 128
- 213, 18 doubles 153 - 320, 1 apartment 356 - 463).
PAKD hhhh
Hilton Prague J-2, Praha 8, Poben 1, MFlorenc, tel.
(+420) 224 84 11 11, fax (+420) 224 84 23 78, sales.
prague@hilton.com, www.prague.hilton.com. Easil y
recognisable as the glass box on the Vltava, Hilton Prague has
all the facilities expected in this international brand. 24 hour
bars, restaurants and services and a casino. Q788 rooms
(20 singles 150 - 280, 646 doubles 150 - 280, 91 triples
166 - 296, 19 suites 308 - 438, 3 apartments 686 - 816,
8 junior suites 266 - 396, 1 presidential suite 956 - 1089).
ACDFGHKLOPRTU hhhhh
Hilton Prague Old Town I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 7, MNm.
Republiky, tel. (+420) 221 822 100, fax (+420) 221 822
200, www.hilton.com. The citys second, smaller Hilton boasts
a classy interior in an enviable location. All the high-class Hilton
amenities are available in a newer and lovely setting. Zinc, their
restaurant and cocktail bar are worth a visit as well. Q310 rooms
(299 doubles 140 - 250, 10 suites 399 - 459, 1 apartment
950). PTJHARUFLGKDC hhhhh
InterContinental Praha E-1, Praha 1, Nm. Curieovch
43/5, MStaromstsk, tel. (+420) 296 63 11 11, fax
(+420) 224 81 12 16, prague@ihg.com, www.intercon-
tinental.com/prague. The friendliest front desk and most
helpful concierge in all of Prague might be your first contact
with this big, international hotel that has been looking after high
flyers since before the fall of communism. All the facilities you
would expect, including a superb fitness centre. Q372 rooms
(155 singles 149 - 270, 128 doubles 149 - 290, 24 suites
349 - 490, 2 apartments 1830 - 4200, 63 junior suites
199 - 340). PHARUFLGBKDC hhhhh
Kempinski Hybernsk Prague J-3, Praha 1, Hybernsk
12, MNmst Republiky, tel. (+420) 226 22 61 11, fax
(+420) 226 22 61 23, reservations.prague@kempinski.
com, www.kempinski-prague.com. Luxury squared at the
new Kempinski hotel. The property dates back to the 15th
century and has been carefull y reconstructed to offer 75
rooms and suites. Expect the usual: air conditioning, telephone,
TV, radio, minibar, hairdryer, bath robe, safe, and high-speed
internet wifi connection, non-smoking rooms. Suites feature
separate bedroom and living areas, fitted kitchenette, guest
WC and walk-in closets. Big bonus: the hotel has its own private
garden and atrium. Q75 rooms (suites 375, Superior 249
-, Grand Deluxe 295 - ). PJHAUFGK hhhhh
Prague Marriott I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 8, MNm. Repub-
liky, tel. (+420) 222 88 88 88, fax (+420) 222 88 88 89,
prague.marriott@marriotthotels.com, www.marriottprague.
com. Bigger really is better; plus youve got an excellent location
to boot. Every amenity imaginable and size, lots of it. Higher priced
suites have two levels. The rooms have recently been renovated
for an extra pop of luxury and comfort. If you are shelling out for a
suite or better, then breakfast in the Executive Lounge is included.
Q293 rooms (258 doubles 149 - 315, 33 suites 359 - 495).
PTHARUFLGKDC hhhhh
President H-2, Praha 1, nm. Curieovch 100,
MStaromstsk, tel. (+420) 234 61 41 11, fax (+420)
234 61 41 10, reservations@hotelpresident.cz, www.ho-
telpresident.cz. A range of top-class suites, an executive floor,
a casino and a fitness room and spa, have earned the President
five star status (though even their large standard rooms have
a sofa). Photographs throughout the hotel complement the
elegant dcor of pale yellows and blue glass. All staff seem
genuinely pleased to be here and smile broadly. Q130 rooms
(7 singles 165 - 225, 65 doubles 145 - 225, 22 triples 145 -
225, 32 junior suites 195 - 255, 3 senior suites 295 - 355, 1
presidential suite 800 - 1100). Executive floor add 50 on all
types of rooms. POTHARUFLKD hhhhh
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ragues Premium Summer Venue
BBQ dinner every Friday from 6.00 pm Sunday brunch from 11.00 am
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child friendl y U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms
K Restaurant M Nearest metro station
D Sauna C Swimming pool
6 Animal friendl y W Wi-Fi
Symbol key
Prague has a long tradition of hospitality having hosted
generations of travellers, thinkers and invading armies.
However, to the modern guest this may not be immediately
apparent as the tradition of customer service is somewhat
shorter. Generally, the further you travel into residential
Prague, the cheaper the rooms become (and the quirkier
the environment). Late night revellers staggering home to
musical accompaniment can make a stay in the Old Town
less than peaceful, so check out your hotel's location before
signing up. Alternatively, find a hotel when you get here, and
always ask for a discount. Chances are youll get one.
Cream of the crop
Corinthia Towers Praha 4, Kongresov 1, MVyehrad,
tel. (+420) 261 19 11 11, fax (+420) 261 21 16 73, tow-
ers@corinthia.cz, www.corinthia.cz. All the convenience you
would demand from a 24-floor hotel in a capital city. In addition
to a top-class oriental and Italian restaurant, facilities include a
casino, fitness centre and ten-pin bowling. Q544 rooms (120
singles 260 - 300, 388 doubles 260 - 300, triples 350 - 390,
20 suites 410 - 1570, 1 presidential suite 1570, 16 junior
suites 410). ACDFGHKLPRTU hhhhh
Four Seasons D-2, Praha 1, Veleslavnova 2a,
MStaromstsk, tel. (+420) 221 42 70 00, fax (+420)
221 42 60 00, reservations.prg@fourseasons.com,
www.fourseasons.com/prague. Just a step from Charles
Bridge, the Four Seasons affords its guests with as much
class and comfort as is humanl y possible. Over a year
was spent renovating the four buildings that provide a roof
over your head, which range from 500-year-old elegance to
contemporary design. Q161 rooms (singles 275 - 550,
141 doubles 295 - 570, 20 apartments 695 - 3900).
PTHARUFLGBKD hhhhh
18
WHERE TO STAY
19
WHERE TO STAY
Andels Praha 5, Stroupenickho 21, MAndl, tel.
(+420) 296 88 96 88, fax (+420) 296 88 99 99, info@
andelshotel.com, www.andelshotel.com. Bang in the
centre of the upmarket development west of the river, and
just a few tramstops from the old town, the glittering facilities
at Andels will blind you with their high-technicity. Top-notch
accommodation with designer lines. Q231 rooms (singles
235 - 300, 223 doubles 255 - 325, 8 suites 320 - 380).
ADFGHKLPRTU hhhh
Antik City H-5, Praha 2, Mal tpnsk 13, MMstek,
tel. (+420) 224 91 91 00, fax (+420) 224 91 90 60, info@
antikcity.cz, www.antikcity.cz. A newl y reconstructed
boutique hotel in a quiet part of Nov Msto. The rooms are
classically designed and include sat TV, mini-bar, safe and free
internet connection. Their lovely caf is a nice place to start or
end your day. Q30 rooms (30 doubles 165). PK hhhh
Aquapalace Hotel Prague - estlice, Prask, tel. (+420)
225 10 88 88, fax (+420) 225 10 89 99, info@aquapalace-
hotel.cz, www.aquapalacehotel.cz. Located on the outskirts
of Prague, this new hotels draw is its direct access to Central
Europes largest waterpark. Conference facilities, a wellness
centre, nearby shopping opportunities and of course all the mod
cons one could want mean even if your skin starts to prune, youll
have somewhere to go besides the water. Q231 rooms (183
doubles 95, 3 suites 145, 30 Family Rooms 135, 3 Barrier
Free Rooms). TAFLKDC hhhh
Astoria F-2, Praha 1, Rybn 10, MNm. Republiky, tel.
(+420) 221 77 57 11, fax (+420) 221 77 57 12, info@
hotelastoria.cz, www.hotelastoria.cz. Astoria occupies
a modern building on some prime real estate in Prague Old
Town. Rooms are on the small side, but comfortable with
bright blue interiors, modern wood furnishings and great
views. Top-floor VIP rooms offer more amenities and enor-
mous balconies. Q74 rooms (singles 99 - 220, 74 doubles
99 - 240). AGHKLPRTU hhhh
Barcel F-3, Praha 1, Celetn 29, MNmst Republiky,
tel. 222 33 71 11, fax 241 44 10 23, oldtownpraha.fom@
barcelo.com, www.barcelo.com. Its so light and bright!
With a courtyard in its centre; Barcel tosses away the typical
dark lobby and hall ways and lets the sun shine in. The lobby
is covered in a skylight and the walk to your room will have
an view to outside. A mix of rooms and suites (28 rooms; 34
suites) with all the mod-cons: mini-bar, TV, DVD player, air-
conditioning, etc. An excellent restaurant as well. Q62 rooms
(28 doubles 64, 34 suites 100). PJAK hhhh
Barcel Praha Praha 4, Na Stri 32, MPankrc, tel.
(+420) 296 77 21 11, fax (+420) 241 44 10 23, hotel@
barcelo.cz, www.barcelo.com. An excellent Spanish-owned
hotel, this place has extremely friendly staff and small yet
comfy rooms with minibar and telephone plus free parking in
the garage. Q213 rooms (singles 130 - 150, 198 doubles
150 - 170, 15 suites 170 - 240). PHAULK hhhh
Belvedere I-1, Praha 7, Milady Horkov 19, MVl-
tavsk, tel. (+420) 220 10 61 11, fax (+420) 233 37 44
71, prague@belvedere-hotel.com, www.hotelbelvedere.
cz. Situated in a lovely area across the Vltava, not far from the
castle, the Belvedere offers wonderful accommodation and a
high level of service. The spacious three-star standard rooms
come with as many mod cons as you could ever need, and the
four-star executive floor has even more on offer. Q152 rooms
(6 singles 53 - 88, 113 doubles 71 - 118, 32 triples 89 -
148, 1 quad 89 - 148). Singles from 1200CZK; Doubles from
1550CZK; Triples from 1950CZK, includes buffet breakfast,
city tax and VAT. HAULGK hhhh
Upmarket
Absolutum Praha 7, Jablonskho 4, MHoleovice,
tel. (+420) 222 54 14 06, booking@absoluthotel.
cz, www.absolutumhotel.cz. The absolute best place
to stay in Praha 7. Design hotel Absolutum is an upscale,
clean and shiny place wi th all the conveniences of home;
including internet connection and parking. The restaurant
is also getting rave reviews so i f you are looking for chic
accommodations in a cool hood, absolutel y check in. Q
Doubles from 79. PAUFK
Ametyst J-6, Praha 2, Jana Masaryka 11, MNm.
Mru, tel. (+420) 222 92 19 21, fax (+420) 222 92
19 99, mailbox@hotelametyst.cz, www.hotelametyst.
cz. Nicknamed The Gallery, i t has over 450 paintings by
Russian and Romanian artists on display, and a reputa-
tion as one of the more efficient hotels in Prague. Tucked
away in a quiet section of Vinohrady but close to food
and transport hubs and now wi th Wi-Fi throughout, this
is a good l ow-key opti on. Q84 rooms (8 singl es 85
- 155, 69 doubl es 105 - 215, 7 tripl es 130 - 265).
PHAULGKDW hhhh
lite H-5, Praha 1, Ostrovn 32, MNrodn tda, tel.
(+420) 224 93 22 50, fax (+420) 224 93 07 87, sales@
hotelelite.cz, www.hotelelite.cz. With a history that dates
back to the 14th century, the lite, a member of the Small
Charming group, is another gem. Totall y refurbished in 2000,
rooms are suitably grand, spacious and historic, with wonder-
ful high ceilings, and lovel y antique furniture. Q79 rooms (10
singles 112 - 176, 67 doubles 125 - 199, 1 triple 169
- 267, 1 junior suite 147 - 216). PARULGBK
hhhh
Radisson SAS Alcron I-5, Praha 1, tpnsk 40,
MMstek, tel. (+420) 222 82 00 00, fax (+420) 222
82 01 00, sales.prague@radissonsas.com, www.
prague.radissonsas.com. Buil t in 1930 and restored to
i ts former glory in 1999, this place has picked up a heap
of design awards. Guests can expect rooms that have the
warmth and grace of state rooms on a luxury liner. The higher
the floor, the more stunning your view of Prague. Extras
include a 24-hour limousine service. Prices do not include
VAT. Q211 rooms (12 singles 169 - 229, 180 doubles
169 - 229, 5 sui tes 309 - 359, 1 apartment 900 - 1300,
13 junior sui tes 269 - 309). PTHARUFLG
BKD hhhhh
Royal Palace B2, Praha 1, Letensk 11, MMalostran-
sk, tel. (+420) 224 81 12 81, fax (+420) 224 81 12 87,
royalpalace@bestwestern.at, www.hotelroyalpalace.
cz. The first 5-star Best Western hotel in Europe; the Royal
Palace (neighbor to Prague Castle) is fit for royal ty. Boutique
ameni ties and personal touches abound. Onl y 36 rooms
means youll get the attention you need; and the renovated
19th century building is filled with a charm all its own. Q
Single: 140; Double: 150. PJAUK
Sheraton Prague Charles Square Hotel H-5, Prague
2, itn 8, MKarlovo nmst, tel. (+420) 225 99 99
99, fax (+420) 225 99 99 09, www.sheraton.com. The
Sheraton near Karlovo nmst offers comfy beds, a good in
between Old and New Town location plus in room high speed
internet connection and a variety of dining options. Modern
and sleek, the first Sheraton in Prague has 160 rooms con-
sisting of 122 deluxe rooms plus 38 suites. Its a well-located
smart choice. Q Deluxe rooms: 150-250; Suites: 250-650.
PJHA6UFKW hhhhh
20
WHERE TO STAY
21
WHERE TO STAY
Lanka. Luxurious accommodation, supremel y personable
and delightfull y quiet. Q138 rooms (2 singles 150 - 240,
126 doubles 170 - 260, 3 suites 320 - 400, 7 junior suites
225 - 350). Breakfast and VAT not included in the price.
PTHARUFLGBKX hhhh
Elysee F-4, Praha 1, Vclavsk nm. 43, MMstek, tel. 221
45 51 11, fax 224 22 57 73, elysee@europehotels.cz, www.
hotelelysee.cz. Right in the centre of the city, with all of Pragues
main attractions just a few minutes walk away. All rooms are
well-appointed, spacious and have luxurious bathrooms. Six new
apartments have been added to Elysees charm, all fully equipped
for 2-6 people. (Prices for apartments do not include breakfast).
Q76 rooms (8 singles 73 - 133, 50 doubles 96 - 180, 12 triples
120 - 223, 6 apartments 111 - 246). PAULG hhhh
Holiday Inn Praha 4, Na Pankrci 15/1684, MVyehrad,
tel. (+420) 296 89 50 00, fax (+420) 296 89 50 10,
main@holidayinn.cz, www.holidayinn.cz. The Holiday Inn
brand name is known for its quality services and standards
across the globe, and the Prague version is no exception.
Good rooms, amentities and location at reasonable prices.
Q251 rooms (243 doubles 220 - 240, 8 sui tes 270).
PHARULGBK hhhh
Hotel ern slon F-2, Praha 1, Tnsk 1, MNm.
Republiky, tel. 222 32 15 21, fax 222 31 03 51, slon@
hotelcernyslon.cz, www.hotelcernyslon.cz. This elegant
hotel rolls out the red carpet for all of its guests. Rooms,
decorated wi th antique furni ture, are spacious and some
include an amazing view of the surrounding medieval centre.
The wine cellar is also worth a peek. Q16 rooms (2 singles
73 - 113, 10 doubles 117 - 190, 4 triples 153 - 223).
PARLK hhhh
Best Western Premier Hotel Majestic Plaza I-5,
Praha 1, tpnsk 33, MMstek, tel. (+420) 221
48 61 00, fax (+420) 221 48 64 86, reception@hotel-
majestic.cz, www.hotel-majestic.cz. Lavishl y renovated
buildings around a copper clad courtyard. One is Biedermeier
style and sports slightly cramped but fully mod conned rooms
on five floors. The other is superb art deco and hosts seven
floors of rooms with the top floors wielding the terraces and
views. Central and stylish, Majestic is the word. Q185 rooms
(175 doubles 125 - 260, 5 triples 165 - 310, 5 apartments
195 - 330). PHAR6ULGKDW hhhh
BW Meteor Plaza I-3, Praha 1, Hybernsk 6, MNm.
Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 19 25 59, fax (+420) 224
22 06 81, reservation@hotel-meteor.cz, www.hotel-
meteor.cz. Within shouting distance of the Powder Tower,
this Best Western hotel is full of charm, but then again, there
has been an inn here since 1307. In the 18th century, the
man later to become Emperor Josef II wouldnt lay his head
down anywhere else. Q88 rooms (15 singles 109 - 173,
56 doubles 125 - 190, 10 triples 166 - 239, 6 suites 141
- 217). ADFGHKLPR hhhh
Carlton Praha 3, Tboritsk 18, MJiho z Podbrad, tel.
222 71 11 77, fax 222 71 11 99, carlton@europehotels.
cz, www.hotelcarlton.cz. Dark wood and deep green soft
furnishings give a sophisticated air to the rooms. Bathrooms
are luxurious, while the top floor rooms have vaul ted, slanted
ceilings and suites often go for the same price as a double.
A little way out of town, but the Carl ton has good tram links.
Q49 rooms (3 singles 73 - 133, 40 doubles 97 - 180, 6
triples 120 - 223). PHARULGK hhhh
Corinthia Panorama Praha 4, Milevsk 7, MPankrc,
tel. (+420) 261 16 11 11/(+420) 261 16 60 61, fax
(+420) 261 16 41 41, panorama@corinthia.cz, www.
corinthia.cz. The second, albei t less exclusi ve Corinthia
hotel in Prague still has excellent services and facilities in
rooms and restaurants. The pool provides panoramic views
of the ci ty as one swims or lounges. Q450 rooms (118
singles 205 - 225, 321 doubles 205 - 225, triples 275
- 295, 1 presidential suite 1340, 10 junior suites 410).
PTHARUFLGBKDC hhhh
Courtyard Marriott Flora Praha 3, Lucembursk 46,
MFlora, tel. (+420) 236 08 80 88, fax (+420) 236
08 80 89, www.marriott.com. Billed as hotels designed
by business travellers, every room has a dataport and TV
internet (both charged for standard rooms) and are spacious
with desk, ergonomic chair and a sofa(bed). King size and very
comfortable beds dominate rooms, which have ice buckets,
fridge for you to fill, hairdryer, coffee/tea facilities plus iron in
every room and robe and slippers in superior rooms make the
Courtyard a place to stay. 24hr shop in the lobby plus a cosy
bar. Q161 rooms (81 singles 105 - 135, 64 doubles 135
- 175, 13 triples 140 - 200, 1 suite 195 - 245). Breakfast
9-16. PHAR6UIFLGKW hhhh
Crowne Plaza Prague Castle Praha 1, Strahovsk
128, tel. (+420) 226 08 00 00, fax (+420) 226 08 02
00, cppraguecastle@keyhotels.cz, www.crowneplaza.
com. A beautifully restored 16th century building with modern
annexe tucked behind Strahov Monastery holds this striking
new hotel from InterContinental with glass domed atrium/
library and effective yet simple designs in lighting and furni-
ture. Two wings, one old, one new, hold spacious rooms with
king, queen or twin beds, desk, plasma TV, smellies from The
White Company and some have a small terrace. The usual
services join the countrys onl y Ayurvedic spa and clinic,
with doctor, therapists and equipment all imported from Sri
Jalta Hotel F-4, Praha 1, Vclavsk nm. 45,
MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 222 82 21 11, fax (+420) 222
82 28 33, booking@hoteljalta.com, www.jalta.cz. The
reception area, and especiall y the bathrooms, perpetuate a
classy, retro feel. The classic lines of the surroundings are
enhanced by the rich materials and colours. Double and deluxe
rooms, plus five suites. Q94 rooms (89 doubles 160 - 240,
5 suites 220 - 290). PTHARULGBK hhhh
Mvenpick Praha 5, Mozartova 261/1, MAndl, tel.
(+420) 257 15 11 11, fax (+420) 257 15 31 31, hotel.
prague@moevenpick.com, www.movenpick-prague.com.
The hotels rooms are spacious and are decorated in a modern
style. Take the funicular up the hill to the restaurant and function
rooms with outstanding views of the city. Q442 rooms (4 singles
240, 410 doubles 280, 7 suites 445, 6 apartments , 15
junior suites). PTHARUFLGBKD hhhh
Sovereign I-4, Politickch vz 16, MMuzeum, tel.
(+420) 242 45 45 45/(+420) 242 45 45 65, fax (+420)
242 45 45 11, sales@hotel-sovereign.cz, www.hotel-
sovereign.cz. Elegant yet homey with an excellent city-centre
location, this new four-star superior hotel should be popular.
Fifty spacious rooms and suites are all individually decorated
in a warm comforting style. The location is on the nicer, quieter
side of Wenceslas Square and comes complete with all the
usuals: in-room air conditioning, free Wi-Fi, satellite TV, mini-
bar and safe. Q PJAFKW hhhh
Hotel Anna
Budesk 17, Praha 2

tel. +420 222 513 111
www.hotelanna.cz
Hotel Atlantic
Na Po 9, Praha 1
tel. +420 224 811 084
www.hotel-atlantic.cz
Best Western Hotel Meteor Plaza
Hybernsk 6, Praha 1
tel. +420 224 192 111
www.hotel-meteor.cz
Sovereign Hotel
Politickch Vz 16, Praha 1

tel. +420 242 454 545
www.hotel-sovereign.cz
Locati on Character Hospi tali ty Cateri ng Calm Charm
Hotel lite
Ostrovn 32, Praha 1

tel. +420 224 932 250
www.hotelelite.cz
Hotel Claris
Slezsk 26, Praha 2

tel. +420 242 446 111
www.hotel-claris.cz
Best Western Hotel Pv
Kemencova 13, Praha 1

tel. +420 221 502 111
www.hotel-pav.cz
PRAGUE
CLASSIC CHARM
AND MODERN HOSPITALITY
AT OUR HOTELS
AND LUXURY APARTMENTS
BOOKING ONLINE
www.europehotels.cz
e-mail:
booking@europehotels.cz
Tel: +420 224 248 752
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22
WHERE TO STAY
23
WHERE TO STAY
Yasmin F-4, Praha 1, Politickch vz 12, MMuzeum,
tel. (+420) 234 10 01 00, fax (+420) 234 10 01 01,
info@hotel-yasmin.cz, www.hotel-yasmin.cz. This fabu-
lous designer hotel is all very tactile, wi th sleek furni ture,
jasmine flowers etched along floors and glass dividers, sil ver
globes hanging from the ceiling and odd furry and smooth
triffid-like objects towering over you. A subtle green dominates
the room colour, each has a huge mirror so you can look as
good as it does, flat screen TVs, all mod cons and rooms in
the newer annex have skylights while the suite boasts a walk-
in closet. Some rooms have no shower, tub onl y so check if
you care. Q198 rooms (187 doubles 220 - 280, 11 suites
260 - 340). ADFGHKLPR6U hhhh
Mid-Range
Anna J-5, Praha 2, Budesk 17, MNm. Mru, tel.
(+420) 222 51 31 11, fax (+420) 222 51 51 58, recep-
tion@hotelanna.cz, www.hotelanna.cz. Part of the Small
Charming group, and the Anna is just that. A real gem, with
first class services and a homel y atmosphere that caters to
a thoughtful clientele looking for something a little special.
Q24 rooms (8 singles 63 - 77, 10 doubles 83 - 103, 4
triples 110 - 130, 2 suites 120 - 140). TARG hhh
Ariston K-4, Praha 3, Seifertova 65, MHlavn ndra, tel.
(+420) 222 78 25 17/(+420) 222 78 11 87, fax (+420)
222 78 03 47, ariston@europehotels.cz, www.hotelariston.
cz. Rooms at the Ariston are light and pastel coloured. Although
it may seem far from the centre, it's just a couple of tram stops
away. Q61 rooms (4 singles 50 - 100, 44 doubles 70 - 133,
12 triples 90 - 140, 1 suite 93 - 187). HAUGK hhh
Atlantic I-3, Praha 1, Na Po 9, MNm. Republiky, tel.
(+420) 224 81 10 84, fax (+420) 224 81 23 78, info@
hotel-atlantic.cz, www.hotel-atlantic.cz. This hotel is on
the site of a roadside inn in the 17th century. The Atlantic
remains on a busy road today but with renovated interiors
which are now sleek, chic and classy, conference facilities and
Fiesta, their self service restaurant, this is excellent value for
being so close to the Old Town. Q88 rooms (9 singles 73
- 110, 52 doubles 97 - 129, 25 triples 112 - 158, 2 quads
141 - 187). HARULGK hhh
Best Western Hotel Pv H-5, Praha 1, Kemencova 13,
MKarlovo nmst, tel. (+420) 221 50 21 11, fax (+420)
221 50 22 23, reception@hotel-pav.cz, www.hotel-pav.
cz. Prague is blessed with another Small Charming Hotel, this
time in the New Town, where three buildings have been merged
and beautifully reconstructed to incorporate classical elements
with modern lines. And it is very minimalist: no prints on the walls
and muted wood and beige interior. All rooms have twin beds,
a safe, minibar, desk, TV and free Wi-Fi. Pets are welcome and
the lower double price is for single occupancy. Q81 rooms (66
doubles 79 - 129, 15 triples 118 - 158). PARUKW
Claris J-4, Praha 2, Slezsk 26, MNm. Mru, tel. (+420)
242 44 61 11, fax (+420) 242 44 61 12, reception@
hotel-claris.cz, www.hotel-claris.cz. Set in the coveted
Vinohrady district, Claris offers two floors of light, spacious
and affordable rooms. It's just minutes away from the nm.
Miru trams and metro station, or a 15-minute stroll into the
centre, but you'll also find many good restaurant options in the
immediate neighbourhood. Q24 rooms (2 singles 66 - 79,
22 doubles 86 - 106). PARLGK hhh
Ibis Praha Smchov Praha 5, Plzesk 14, MAndl,
tel. (+420) 221 70 17 00, fax (+420) 221 70 18 00, resa-
praha-re06@accor.com, www.ibishotel.com. The third
Ibis for Prague gives their usual room rates and facilities in the
ever-growing and trendier by the day area around Andl. Hard
working staff keep smiling and converse freel y in a number of
languages. The lobby bar is busy, which is very uncommon
in hotels. An excellent choice for a comfortable stay across
the river. Oh, and your pets are welcome too. Q228 rooms
(singles 64 - 84, 214 doubles 76 - 96, 12 triples 88 - 108,
2 suites 154). PTHARULGK hhh
Park Inn H-7, Praha 2, Svobodova 1, MVyehrad, tel.
(+420) 225 99 52 25, fax (+420) 261 00 96 86, info.
prague@rezidorparkinn.com, www.prague.parkinn.com.
A large modern hotel in an Art Deco-ish building; Park Inn is
part of the Radisson SAS group. Good choice for biz people;
they have conference facilities; meeting rooms and 210 guest
rooms. A fitness centre, large restaurant and indoor parking
amp up the interest. Leisure travellers and outdoor lovers will
appreciate the proximity to Vyehrad castle and gardens. Q
70-300. PHA6FKW
Pensions
Dm u velk boty C1, Praha 1, Vlask 30, MMalos-
transk, tel. (+420) 257 53 20 88, info@dumuvelkeboty.
cz, www.dumuvelkeboty.cz. Old-fashion charm fairly oozes At
the Big Boot. You'll find this cozy, family run hotel just at the bot-
tom of the Castle. The building has been around awhile; but the
owners have done a delightful job in mixing modern technology
with period furnishings. Q Doubles start at 2700CZK. TJ
Apartments
Marriott Executive Apartments I-5, Praha 2, V
Tnch 9, MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 221 02 21 02, fax
(+420) 221 022 103, www.praguemarriottexecu-
tiveapartments.com. An excellent choice for the corporate
or business travell er; the full y furnished studio or one-
bedroom apartments provide a home office area with two
lines, high speed (wired) internet access and full y equipped
kitchen. Housekeeping is available, as is dinner delivery from
a number of nearby restaurants. A fitness area, plunge pool,
plus business and conceirge services round out the ameni-
ties. Q53 rooms (53 apartments 80 - 250). JAFC
Prague Classic Rental J-6, Praha 2, Zhebsk 37,
MNmst Mru, tel./fax (+420) 222 51 64 66, tel.
(+420) 603 33 16 79, info@pragueclassicrental.cz,
www.pragueclassicrental.cz. A variety of apartments in
3 excellent Vinohrady buildings. Get a feel for city life with a
1 week or longer stay in one of Prague Classic Rentals full y
furnished and modernly decorated apartments. From studios
up to 3-bedroom flats, youll be well-catered to in your own
personal space. Q 10,000-25,000CZK per week. A
Hostels
Czech Inn K-6, Praha 10, Francouzsk 76, MNm.
Mru, tel. (+420) 267 26 76 00, fax (+420) 267 26 76
01, info@czech-inn.cz, www.czech-inn.com. The pun is
excused due to the sheer design beauty and comfort these
people have afforded your average backpacker. From some
of the makers of Sir Tobys and Miss Sophies, Czech Inn is
the future of backpacking, we hope the custom iron bed-
steads and furniture, stylish fixtures, famous shower heads,
caf and wow-split-level apartments have already made the
international press, even the 10 bed dorm is spacious. All
beds have lockable drawers. Reservations necessary. Q33
rooms (12 doubles 50 - 57, 2 triples 58 - 65, 8 apartments
68 - 157, dorms 14 - 15). AUGBK
Old Prague Hostel F-2, Praha 1, Benediktsk 2,
MNm. Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 82 90 58, nfo@
oldpraguehostel.com, www.oldpraguehostel.com.
Award-winning hostel slap bang in the thick of Pragues
nightli fe. All entrances are key-coded for securi ty, dorms
(max. 8 beds) have lockers and are fairl y cramped, but hey,
all youre going to do is sleep in there. Plus free internet,
TV/DVD lounge, ki tchen, breakfast and linen, a 24 hour
reception and very friendl y staff - the owners grandmother
did all the artwork. Q From 10.90 in a 10-bed dorm to
30 for a single. G
Prague Square Hostel E-3, Praha 1, Melantrichova
10, MMstek, tel. (+420) 224 24 08 59, inf o@
praguesquarehostel.com, www.praguesquarehostel.
com. Full service - friendl y atmosphere is their slogan; and
boy do they live up to it. Included in the price is breakfast,
free linens & towels, internet &Wi-Fi, lockers and a luggage
room. Checking out? Theyll keep your bags for free. Newl y
reconstructed and in a great part of town; definitel y check it
out. Q 10.90 per bed in 10-bed dorm up to 30 for a single.
Includes taxes and breakfast. JGW
Courtyard Marriott Prague Airport Praha 6,
Aviatick 1092/8, tel. (+420) 236 07 71 40, fax
(+420) 236 07 70 78, www.marriott.com/prgpa.
Securi ty dictates no open windows so i ts all sealed
but its all glass walls with magnificent views and Zen
garden by the fitness centre with jasmine, lemon, orange
and olive trees. The comfy library, lobby and business
area (with to pay Wi-Fi) and Italian restaurant with open
kitchen and as-required bar are all open to the public and
connected to the airport via a covered walkway. Rooms
are of the high Marriott standard with plasma TVs with
keyboard, to pay internet, an ice machine on each floor
and a fridge for you to stock. A welcome change to the
airports services. Q235 rooms (132 singles 85 - 125,
98 doubles 85 - 125, 5 suites 175 - 195). PTHA
RUFLGKXW hhhh
Ramada Airport Hotel Prague Praha 6, K Letit
25a, tel. (+420) 220 11 12 50, fax (+420) 220
11 12 56, reception@ramada-airportprague.com,
www.ramadainternational.com. The oldest and least
appealing of the airport hotels and less inclined for the
international traveller - i t is adjacent to the domestic
terminal and has no link other than overpriced taxi to the
international (north) terminal. Rooms have safe, minibar,
hair dryer etc. but are basic and with showers onl y while
apartments comprise a room with small sofa bed and
bathtub. Internet is not free but they have TV keyboards.
Q PHAR6UGKXW
Airport hotels
24
RESTAURANTS
25
RESTAURANTS
Prague is aptly named the city of a hundred spires, but to
the gastronomically inclined it's also known as the city of
a thousand restaurants. Prague's cosmopolitan character
is reflected by her increasingly international and excellent
cuisine, although there are still plenty of tourist traps.
Afghan
Ariana F-2, Praha 1, Rmov 6, MNm. Republiky, tel.
(+420) 222 32 34 38, www.sweb.cz/kabulrest. Superb,
especiall y if it happens to be the chilli chutney or a large plate
of aubergines swimming in butter and sal t. Ariana's Afghan
is slightl y spicy, and uses a lot of tomatoes and yoghurt.
The portions may be a tad underweight but great Eastern
cuisine, at better prices than most. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(150 - 250K). TA
Kabul Karolina D-4, Praha 1, Karolny Svtl 14,
MNrodn tda, tel. (+420) 224 23 54 52, www.
kabulrestaurant.cz. Unassuming in appearance, perhaps
like the ci ty i t's named after, i t's the food and the pleasant
courtyard seating at this Afghan restaurant that draws
in the Czech and forei gn crowds. The short menu lists
among others kebabs, kofta (spicy meatballs) and ashak,
a delicious dough pocket stuffed wi th beef, leek, yoghurt
and mint. Don't forget to try the kadu yoghurt-pumpkin
dessert before you leave. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed
Sun. PAB
American
Ambiente Living K-5, Praha 2, Mnesova 59,
MNm. Mru, tel. (+420) 222 72 78 51, www.
ambi.cz. One of the Ambi ente chain, and as eternall y
popular as the others, thi s place ser ves up fresh salad,
great stuffed peppers, ribs and of course chi cken wings.
Thi s i s bi l l ed as a 'l i fest yl e' restaurant and ser ves
deli ci ous di shes wi th their di stincti ve brand of styl e.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (150
- 300K). A
Buffalo Bill's H-5, Praha 1, Vodikova 9, MMstek,
tel. (+420) 224 94 86 24, www.buffalobill.cz. A
cl ear exampl e of how the West has won i n Prague,
BB's i s an Ameri can-styl e restaurant decorated like a
sal oon where the Duke or Clint Eastwood coul d meet
for drinks. Al though classi c barbecued ribs and burgers
are offered, Bill's true speciali ty i s Tex-Mex food in the
form of burri tos, enchiladas and, the crowning achi eve-
ment of i ts genre, chimi changas. Limi tl ess sof t drinks
can be had, but the glasses are so large you probabl y
won't dare have more than one. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(150 - 300K). PTA
Cowboys Steaks & Cocktails A-1, Praha 1,
Nerudova 40, MMalostransk, tel. (+420) 296 82
61 07, www.kampagroup.com. Bazaar has morphed
into the Kampa Group's sublime versi on of an Ameri can
steakhouse. Premium-tequila-laden cowgirls on the bar,
quali ty and affordabl e cuts of steak, seafood and even
lobster (1,250K), compl ementary wine list, myriad salad
and side offerings, cool bar, tunes and atmosphere. A
fabul ous cellar space, classy desi gn, exell ent cui sine
and staff round out another Kampa success. The primo
cafe ser ves Ill y coffee, Cream & Dream gelato and more.
QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. (250 -
750K) PAIEBW
Hard Rock Cafe H-3, Praha 1, Mal nmst 3,
hardrock.com. Hard Rock Cafe Prague, Europe's largest
Hard Rock Cafe, is situated in the four-story, V.J.Rott build-
ing wi th a beautifull y decorated neo-Renaissance faade
and frescos. The cafe is located in the heart of old Prague
less than 50 meters from the famous Old Town Square. The
three-level, 1900-square-meter cafe includes two vibrant
bars and features a unique compilation of memorabilia from
Hard Rock's world-famous collection completed by a 5-meter
custom-made chandelier in the shape of a guitar. QOpen
11:00 - 01:00. 250 - 490K. A
Jma D-4, Praha 1, V Jm 7, MMstek, tel. (+420)
224 22 23 83, www.jamapub.cz. Musi c and booze
memorabilia from the Ramones to Jack Daniels adorn the
walls and ceilings of this, one of Prague's most popular
expat destinations. Big, juicy burgers, BLTs and Tex-Mex,
as well as cheap local specials, lunch deals and beer. Their
Sunday breakfast/brunch deals are large, tasty and have
free refills of coffee. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. (100 - 250K).
TAGBW
Argentinean
El Gaucho E-4, Praha 1, Na Pkop 13, MMstek,
tel. (+420) 234 07 63 22, www.el-gaucho.cz. Once off
the escalator, shake off the shopping mall feel by attending
to your carnivorous needs. The mixed grill is hearty and with
just the right hint of charcoal to make it authentic. QOpen
11:30 - 24:00. (500 - 900K). PAUE
La Boca I-3, Praha 1, Truhlsk 10, MNm. Republiky,
tel. (+420) 222 31 20 73, www.laboca.cz. La Boca, junior
to the Hotel Salvator next door, serves up large and value-filled
Argentinean dishes, making for a good option when you fancy
a touch of flair without making your wallet feel like you're pur-
chasing a ticket to Argentina. Within the expected rustic dcor
and brightly muralled walls the over-worked staff try their best
and actuall y remain friendl y. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 350K). PTAUG
La Casa Argentina F-2, Praha 1, Dlouh 35, MNm.
Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 31 15 12, www.lacasaar-
gentina.cz. A labyrinthine homage to comfort and cuisine
with added spice from tango dancers, a toucan and unique
swing seats at the cellar bar. Service is impeccable and the
signature Pampas-raised Argentinean beef cooked to perfec-
tion (asado) at the open grill (parrilla). With a non-smoking
winter garden, sports corridor wi th TVs and a wine cellar,
this luxurious new addition to Prague's fine dining scene is
set to cruise forward. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. (200 - 750K).
PAIEG
Bakeries & Sandwiches
Paneria D-2, Praha 1, Kaprova 3, MStaromstsk,
tel. (+420) 224 82 79 12, www.paneria.cz. Paneria is a
chain of bakeries with a tasty range of sweet and savoury
snacks; including pastries, sandwiches, soups and bread that
fuels you up. The pasta is not known for its value or flavour
however. Fresh and fast. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Also at F-3,
Nekzanka 19; I-4, Vodikova 33; E-2, Dlouh 50 and many
other locations. (40 - 100K). S
Subway I-5, Praha 1, tpnsk 51, MMstek, tel.
(+420) 224 21 44 17, www.subwaysandwiches.cz.
Subway ensures your sub in Prague is the same as in Paris,
France or Paris, Texas so their quali ty hot and cold subs,
myriad of dressings, salad accessories, the huge catering
sandwich, cookies and frequent fliers schemes are all avail-
able here. Plus pivo - of course. ISIC cardholder discounts
appl y. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Also
at B-2, Karmelitsk 28. (59 - 148K). PS
Balkan
Gitanes A-2, Praha 1, Trit 7, MMalostransk, tel.
(+420) 257 53 01 63, info@gitanes.cz, www.gitanes.cz.
A vast and fairly expensive selection of local and international
wines precede a vastl y unusual menu for a Prague restau-
rant. Octopus and mussels vie for space with veal and lamb,
served in a marked Balkan slant, see sa, kajmak and sarma
sauerkraut. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (185 - 435K). AG
Luka Lu G-4, Praha 1, jezd 33, MMalostransk, tel.
(+420) 257 21 23 88, info@lukalu.cz, www.lukalu.
cz. Balkan and Italian inspired meals; coupled with warm,
laid-back service makes Luka Lu a great choice for a nice,
relaxed evening. Their fun interior and excellent back ter-
race add to the ambience. Choose octopus, seafood, lamb
or pasta. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
115-380k. JB
S\EJK REST^UR^HT
HOSTlHEC
U K^LlCH^
Ha Bojlstl 12-14
120 00 Praha 2
tel./|ax: +420 296 189 600-1, +420 224 916 475
e-nall: ukallcha_ukallcha.cz www.ukallcha.cz
The czech cuisine is heavy, fat
and unhealthly - but very nice.
Who hasn't been at the famous pub
U Kalicha hasn't been to Prague.
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P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
E Live music S Take away
T Child friendl y U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking
O Casino M Nearest metro station
B Outside seating I Fireplace
R Internet W Wi-Fi 6 Animal friendl y
Symbol key
THE
ROCK N ROLL
RESTAURANT
prague
Dm U Rotta Mal nmst 3
420 224 229 529 hardrock.com
The Rock n Roll Restaurant.
26
RESTAURANTS
27
RESTAURANTS
Breakfast
Bohemia Bagel A-4, Praha 1, Masn 2, MNm. Repub-
liky, tel. (+420) 224 81 25 60, www.bohemiabagel.cz.
The original. Internet bar, child play room, and all the bagels
and other breakfast goodies your hungry bell y craves. A laun-
dry list of sandwiches, grilled items, soups and desserts for
the rest of the day. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Also at Dukelskch
Hrdinu 48/imckova 21, Prague 7, tel. 220 80 65 41. Open
07:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 24:00.
Red Hot & Blues F-3, Jakubsk 12, MNm. Repub-
liky, tel. (+420) 222 31 46 39. Dail y breakfast for Brits
and Americans plus one of the best weekend brunches in
town. A distinct Czech-Mex flavour and some of the hardest
working staff around. Until 11:30 weekdays, 16:00 at the
weekend. QOpen 09:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00.
(100 - 300Kc). AB
Brewery restaurants
Novomstsk pivovar I-5, Praha 1, Vodikova 20,
MMstek, tel. (+420) 222 23 24 48, www.npivovar.cz.
A 340-seat restaurant, the New Town Brewery, not surpris-
ingl y, serves its own brews. This could easil y have become
a theme restaurant, because it can and does cater to large
parties, so come earl y or book ahead. Lots of smoked meat
and traditional dishes. Try the pork knuckle. QOpen 10:00 -
23:30, Sat 11:30 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (160 - 500K).
PTAUEGB
Pot r ef en husa E- 2, Pr aha 1, B l kova 5,
potrefenahusa.com. I t's a hospoda, Jim, but not as
we know i t. The new generation has landed, compl ete
wi th Brazil-the-movie-type TV screens, a bar rail at the
long bar for comfort, and very good, very large, and very
popular food (from fall ow deer to jambalaya), al though
the onus remains on 'the cul ture of drinking'. The Belgian
shareholders help by importing their brews. Reservations
recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (50 - 350K). Also
at Ndran 84, Praha 5; Ndran 23, Praha 5; Resslova
1, Praha 2; Vinohradsk 104, Praha 3; Verdunsk / Ter-
ronsk 11, Praha 6;Platnsk 88/9, Praha 1; Dldn
1003, Praha 1. PA
U Flek H-5, Praha 1, Kemencova 11, MNrodn tda,
tel. (+420) 224 93 40 19, www.ufleku.cz. A tourist trap
since they started brewing their dark, rich aromatic beer on
this spot in 1499. The brew is worth the trip in itself, and
should be accompanied by hearty pub food. The loud and
boisterous crowds of tourists and locals are a show worth
watching as everyone and his tour guide treks through.
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (85 - 320K). A
U Kalicha I-6, Praha 2, Na Bojiti 12, MI.P. Pavlova,
tel. (+420) 296 18 96 00, www.ukalicha.cz. The pub that
features at the beginning of the Czech literary classic 'The
Good Soldier vejk' as the planned location of the never-to-be
meeting "...at six in the evening after the war." An oompah
band keeps the atmosphere rolling. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(150 - 300K). PAEG
U Pinkas E-4, Praha 1, Jungmannovo nm. 16,
MMstek, tel. (+420) 221 11 11 50, www.upinkasu.
cz. The presence of locals is encouraging in this beer hall
whose not unimpressive claim to fame is that of being the first
pivnice in Prague to have Pilsner Urquell on draught. A com-
memorative plaque and a tap mark the spot where this coun-
try's most renowned beer began to flow in 1843. In today's
establishment you'll find a courtyard terrace and two floors of
beer swilling and sausage eating. More elegant no-smoking
rooms are available for dining; the menu, although traditional,
is uninspired. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. (150 - 200K). AB
Chinese
Fu Hao H-5, Praha 1, Kemencova 10, MNrodn tda,
tel. (+420) 721 87 35 37. Just look for the enormous
Chinese vases in the windows opposi te Prague's most
celebrated beer hall, U Flek, to find this friendl y restaurant
decorated in the usual faux Chinese fashion. Al though the
menu is on the simplistic side, the dishes are delicious. Not
surprisingl y, given we're in the Czech Republic, the duck is
excellent. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (60-100 K).
Huang He K-7, Praha 10, Vrovick 1, tel. (+420) 271
74 66 51, www.huanghe.cz. Chinese as good as it should
be; they spice the food up properly then warn Czech clients not
to order that dish. Enjoy the hot and sour soup, but everything
else on the menu is worth ordering, too. Tram N6 from from
I.P. Pavlova to the Ndraz Vrovice stop. Reservations recom-
mended. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Also in Prague 9, Kolbenova
1, tel. 283 89 05 18. (100 - 300K). AGP
Macao I-3, Praha 1, Truhlsk 3, MNm. Republiky,
tel. (+420) 222 31 60 93, www.macaorestaurant.cz.
The staff smile at you so broadl y that you worry their heads
may burst. This attitude is consistent enough that you realise
it's sincere. A well-priced menu is offered in the midst of the
set for a Tom Cruise film circa 1986; all white, and gold, and
hard. Al though the dishes are all soft and sweet. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. (100 - 300K). PAU
Czech
Barnick rychta A-2, Praha 1, Trit 23, MMalos-
transk, tel. (+420) 257 53 24 61, www.baracnick-
arychta.cz. This dark and cosy pub, aglow from the large cop-
per lighting fixtures, may be the perfect place to experience
the beauty of Czech winters, al though in the warmer months
it may translate as a little stuffy. Either way the food is as
earthy and homemade as it comes in Prague. A must for those
wanting a downbeat, 'real' Czech eating experience. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (50 - 150K). AE
Bl vrna Praha 3, Jagellonsk 10, MJiho z Podbrad,
tel. (+420) 737 07 00 05, www.bilavrana.com. Czech
pubs are moving from their working class roots and employ-
ing inventive chefs to elevate the seemingl y similar menus
they host. The White Raven is no exception with even lunch
specials inviting compliments. Excellent service and quality
join some English elements (yet to be tried Sunday roast and
Beamish in cans). QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.
(90 - 300K). BSW
Bredovsk dvr F-4, Praha 1, Politickch vz 13,
MHlavn ndra, tel. (+420) 224 21 54 28, www.bre-
dovskydvur.unas.cz. Another modern version of the Czech
hospoda tradition, Bredovsk dvr delivers cellar ambience
diml y lit by funky lights, a long iron bar, cool furniture and
excellent kitchen. An extremel y popular lunchtime attracts
the crowds with the 75k menu until 2pm. The menu mimics
the funky and old world fusion of the dcor, with Czech dishes
tweaked by international additions, pasta dishes providing
a tasty and cheap al ternative, and big screen enticing the
sports fans. Try buck steak, venison goulash, or stick to old
favourites. Additional seating around the open kitchen is avail-
able at the rear. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.
(150 - 300K). PA
Budweiser Budvar Restaurant Praha 6, Aviatick
1092/8, tel. (+420) 224 24 25 77, www.restaurant-
letiste.cz. In the cold environs of the new shopping centre
by the airport Marriott this Budvar restaurant hardl y en-
tices wi th character. The tradi tional Czech cuisine is good
and al though pri ces are higher than in town, i t's worth
grabbing a meal here before entering the vastl y inflated
prices of the airport i tsel f. The caf next door has com-
fortable seats but li ttle else to attract other than there
isn't anything better at the airport. QOpen 10:30 - 22:00.
(120 - 440K). PTA
Celnice I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 4, MNm. Republiky,
tel. (+420) 224 21 22 40, www.kolkovna.cz. An excel-
lent, upmarket restaurant owned by the Pilsner brewery
decorated with period photos and brewing equipment. The
menu includes all the Czech standards including pork knuckle
and rabbit, but Celnice also serves some more imaginative
and vegetarian options. Unfortunatel y, the large space can
get noisy when the downstairs bar turns up the volume later
in the evening. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 -
04:00. (150 - 335K). PAGB
Ferdinanda I-4, Corner of Opletalova & Politickch
vzn, MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 222 24 43 02, www.
ferdinanda.cz. Two floors, two bars, two big screens, many
tables, beer kegs, weird furnishings, and excellent service
bring Ferdinanda to the hardl y parched but very welcoming
notice of Prague's beer lovers. The food is good too wi th
a delicious gula and more. Speedy lunch specials and
breakfast menu add to their staples. Pi vovar Ferdinand
produces the Sedm Kul 13 degrees beer apparentl y
named for the seven bullets that killed Franz Ferdinand - the
archduke, not the band. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.
(85 - 250K). GW
Folklore Garden Na Zlchov 18, tel. (+420) 724 33
43 40, info@folkloregarden.cz, www.folkloregarden.
cz. I f you're not one to si t still during a meal, then this is
the restaurant for you. At Folklore Garden, you're fed large
portions of tradi tional Czech food and beer, and simul ta-
neousl y entertained wi th a two and one-hal f hour show
wi th li ve music and folk dancing. Great fun i f you're in for
a country-style party; acti ve participation is wel comed.
Folklore Garden is south of Smchov; tram N12, 14 or
20 to Hluboepy. QOpen 20:00 - 22:30. (560 - 1050K).
PAEB
Sovovy Mlny B-3, Praha 1, U Sovovch mln 2,
MMalostransk, tel. (+420) 257 53 59 00, www.
sovovymlyny.com. The restaurant in the whi te mill
buil ding on Kampa I sland i s especiall y recommended
for i ts ri versi de terrace; i ts l ow and so cl ose to the
Vl tava l ock canal that you can almost clink glasses
wi th the par t ying touri sts on the boats chugging to
and from the Vl tava l ocks. The menu includes many
decent fi sh di shes but dont l et that di stract you from
the vi ews of the weir and Charl es Bri dge. Bring some-
thing warm and mosqui to repell ent. QOpen, Mon, Thu,
Sun 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. Cl osed Tue,
Wed. PAGB
Stolet C-4, Praha 1, Karolny Svtl 21, MNrodn
tda, tel. (+420) 222 22 00 08, www.stoleti.cz. The
food is great value, the atmosphere livel y and the service
fantastic. Even better, Stolet is one of the onl y restaurants
that is seriousl y attempting to progress Czech cuisine while
keeping it Czech at the same time. Plus, they are non-smoking
and offer take-away. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (150 - 300K).
PTAUIGBS
0ining with the stars is usually more
memorable than enjoyable. The restaurant
Stoletl, which means century`, has found
a reasonable compromise. You can enjoy
their company on one of 0ld Towns quiet
est streets, for a worlingJoe price, and
without fanfare. Stoletl offers solid value
and inspired litchen technique - though
the last one does go a bit far at times.
You can honestly say youve had a pure
Czech meal and thoroughly enjoyed it
at Stoletl.
Praha 1 - Star Nsto
ul. Karollny Svtl 21
tel./fax. 222 22O OO8
www.stoleti.cz
0pen daily, noonmidnight
Praha 1 - Star Nsto P h 1 S N
28
RESTAURANTS
29
RESTAURANTS
vejk D-2, Praha 1, irok 20, MStaromstsk, tel.
(+420) 224 81 39 64. Someone spent some money (and
not much by the look of it) to make a new restaurant look
old - basicall y what a beer hall would look like in the Czech
pavilion at the World Expo. That said, vejk restaurants are
al ways good for traditional food like duck, pork and wild boar
served with dumplings, cabbage and a local beer. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. (100 - 300K). A
Tlust kachna D-2, Praha 1, irok 4, MStaromstsk,
tel. (+420) 224 81 96 68, www.tlustakachna.cz. Imagi-
native Czech cuisine can be done; and the Fat Duck is doing
i t. Pork or duck wi th cabbage and dumplings isn't new or
exotic; but done right it is delicious, and it's done right here.
The must order though is the creamy garlic soup. Czech wine
and beer take care of the drinks. Two additional things stand
out; excellent service and big portions. Stop by. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. 139-390k.
U Maltzskch ryt B-2, Praha 1, Prokopsk 10,
umaltezskychrytiru.com. Thi s hi stori cal restaurant
called At the Mal tese Cross' is housed in a 14th century
building call ed at the black horse' where the entrance
does not prepare you for the maze of tiny rooms below.
The international menu is small but inspired wi th excellent
Chateaubriand for two and tradi tional Czech dishes. Fish
and meat is predominantl y organic (bio) and the ambience
is understated and secluded. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00.
(300 - 600K). AI
U Modr re E-4, Praha 1, Rytsk 16, MMstek,
tel. (+420) 224 22 58 73, www.umodreruze.cz. The
Blue Rose serves refined Czech dishes in an antique set-
ting to make you feel like a lord or lady. The candle-lit 15th
century brick cellar is an ideal place for a romantic dinner
with your sweetheart. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. (350 - 750K).
AEGP
U Muketra I-5, Praha 1, Mezibransk 13, tel. (+420)
296 22 00 01, www.musketyr.com. A labyrinthine cellar
space (i t can seat up to 200 diners) wi th eclectic furni ture
and good servi ce provides excell ent, well-pri ced Czech
and international dishes. Svkov and gula - topped wi th
lashes of freshl y grated horseradish - particularl y recom-
mended. Kruovice Muketr beer for 18K. Lovely... QOpen
10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (95
- 390K). B
U evce Matoue A-1, Praha 1, Loretnsk nm. 4,
MMalostransk, tel. (+420) 220 51 45 36, restaurant@
usevcematouse.cz, www.usevcematouse.cz. Matthew
the Cobbler has seen some famous people, like the Spanish
Queen and the Pitt-Jolie couple. Mere mortals head there for
the Czech specialities like Svkov Stroganoff and Staroesk
bata, knedlk, zel (Bohemian plate with dumplings and cab-
bage.) The beautiful dining room, so close to Prague Castle,
make this a good choice for an elegant Prague night out. Q
(169-349 CZK).
U Zlat konvice E-3, Praha 1, Staromstsk nm.
26, MStaromstsk, tel. (+420) 224 22 52 93, www.
ukonvice.cz. Moderately priced traditional Czech dishes in a
fabulous, many roomed, authentically decorated cellar space
served up by a slew of avid waiters makes this a great Old
Town getaway. Use the steps descending from beside the
Grand Caf Praha's terrace as the entrance from Melant-
richova is a tad stale. The copper vats hold Pilsner Urquell, and
here any hope of a cheap session goes up the chimney as a
half litre is 80K. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (150 - 295K). A
French
Brasserie La Provence E-3, Praha 1, tupartsk 9,
MNm. Republiky, tel. (+420) 296 82 61 55, www.
kampagroup.com. The people that brought you Kampa
Park went to great lengths to create a genuine brasserie
in the heart of Prague. The resul t is a best of' amalgam of
several Parisian brasseries; a stunning Belle Epoque room
with large windows. Specialising in delicious fresh seafood
(anything from oysters to lobster), game like rabbit in tarragon
sauce and vegetarian onion quiche are also available. The
sommelier has selected several uncomplicated wines (that
can also be had by glass) that go wonderfull y with the food.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (130 - 600K). PA
Cleste H-6, Praha 2, Ranovo nbe 80, MKarlovo
nmst, tel. (+420) 221 98 41 60, info@celesterestau-
rant.cz, www.celesterestaurant.cz. Newly opened on top of
the Dancing House (Tanc dm); excellent French cuisine and
fabulous city views are yours for the money. The contemporary
restaurant is set in an expansive space; complete with a sum-
mer terrace. The cuisine is creative and solid; lots of seafood
and both the wine and dessert lists are substantial. There's an
accompanying bar on the ground floor. QOpen 12:00 - 14:30
lunch & 18:30 - 22:30 dinner. Closed Sun. 375-685 K. JB
Francouzsk restaurace F-3, Praha 1, Nmst
Republiky 5, MNm. Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 00 27
70, www.francouzskarestaurace.cz. Superb French (and
some Czech) gourmet dishes from this restaurants award
winning chefs. Mussels, rabbit, foie gras and duck all make
delightful appearances in one of the worlds masterpieces
of art nouveau archi tecture (the Municipal House building
itself) and interior. Lunch specials and a concert package
lower prices somewhat, and try the Jazz Brunch on the first
Sunday of each month. Q Open 12:00 - 16:00 & 18:00 -
23:00. (600 - 2,000K). ABEPU
Plffy Palc B-1, Praha 1, Valdtejnsk 14, MMalos-
transk, tel. (+420) 257 53 05 22, www.palffy.cz. The
ambience of this 100% antique, turn-of-the-century dining
room is shabbil y aristocratic, and the clientele seem to feel
the need to keep up appearances. It is, on the other hand,
the perfect place to ask for the hand of your sweetheart. A
favourite weekend brunch treat, the excellent smoked salmon
and spinach pancakes are onl y surpassed by the stunning
views of the castle gardens. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (400 -
900K). ABGPT
Sarah Bernhardt I-3, Praha 1, U Obecnho domu 1,
sarah-bernhardt.cz. Hotel dining is reaching dizzy heights
in Prague and the art nouveau design of this restaurant is
divinel y matched by Chef Jan Mona's inspired menues with
set meals for the undecided or choose from swordfish, turbot
or rabbit. Visit their famous jazz Sunday brunch (12:00 - 16:00,
890K). Li ve piano dail y. QOpen 6:30 - 10:00&12:00-
16:00&18:00-23:00. Open 06:30 - 10:00 (10:30 Sat &
Sun), 12:00 - 16:00 & 18:00 - 23:00. (500 - 900K) (750
- 1,500K). PAEG
U Mal B-3, Praha 1, Maltzsk nm. 11, MMalos-
transk, tel. (+420) 257 53 03 18, www.umaliru.cz.
This is one of those restaurants that many acknowledge
is a must-do in Prague as it has the reputation of the best
French cuisine in the city. The pedigree is long, the restaurant
was given three stars by an otherwise difficul t to please King
Rudolf II - in 1544, if you please. Go for the sumptuous dcor
and the ambience of weal th. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (1,200 -
2,000K). PTAG
NEW
Universal H-5, Praha 1, V jirchch 6, MNrodn Tida,
tel. 224 93 44 16, universall@volny.cz, www.universalres-
taurant.cz. There seems to be a load of French restaurants
hanging about; but for a nice sampling and good prices; head to
Universal. Here you'll be treated to a near-perfect salmon tartar,
a creamy chicken dijonnaise (sauce on the side, thank you!) not to
mention filling salads, and of course delectable desserts. If you
are in the mood for brunch; you most likely won't find a fresher
more creative mid-day meal. Served Sundays from 11:00-14:00.
QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. 165-299 K, Brunch: 235 or 265 K.
Greek
Kavala Prague 6, Charlese de Gaulla 5, MDejvick, tel.
(+420) 224 32 51 81, www.kavala-praha.cz. Following
an extensive reconstruction, Kavala joins and adds to the
emergence of Prague 6 as the location of some of Prague's
finest eating establishments (well, diplomats are a notorious
group of eaters and drinkers, so why not?). Good word-of-
mouth buzz and Greek chefs make this another authentic
haven for souvlaki, calamari and tender lamb lovers. QOpen
11:30 - 23:30. (200 - 650K). PA
Kri-Kri J-5, Praha 2, Korunn 48, MNmst Mru, tel.
(+420) 222 540 400, taverna@kri-kri.cz, www.kri-kri.cz.
It's all Greek to them. From the food to the service, Kri-Kri is
about as authentic as you can get off the island. Be prepared
for a long evening and don't go in starving as the service isn't
the best. However, once your food arrives you'll be wallowing
in happiness over their stifado, shrimp saganaki and tzatziki.
Their Greek house wines are surprisingl y cheap and good.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. 145-210 K.
Olympos K-4, Praha 3, Kubelkova 9, MJiho z Podbrad,
tel. (+420) 222 72 22 39, www.tavernaolympos.cz. Right-
fully the most famous Greek restaurant in Prague. Excellent
Grecian starters, a haul of fresh seafood, and friendly, hard
working staff. Superb. And the garden here is one of the best
kept secrets in Prague and has a great playground to keep the
kids happy. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (200 - 500K). TAB
Indian
Indian Jewel I-3, Praha 1, Tn 6, MStaromstsk,
tel. (+420) 222 31 01 56, ind.jewel@savic.eu, www.
indianjewel.cz. A true jewel in Prague Indian cusine. Flavour
is the name of the game here - whether it's their tasty curries,
kebabs or tandoori specialties; the full spectrum of the Indian
continent is dul y explored. The sag paneer, lamb vindaloo
and tandoori murgh are especiall y notable. The head chef
has worked all over the world; including restaurants in India
and Thailand, so knows his stuff. Q 180-490 K. JAB
Manni Mini Praha 3, Seifertova 11, MHlavn ndra, tel.
(+420) 222 51 16 60. From the people who run several oriental
oriented late night markets comes this small, functional but very
tasty Indian place to fill the gap in the market. Curries of every hue
and origin (tandoori, biryani, Punjabi, dopiaza, Madras, jalfrezi and
vindaloo of course) come in vegetarian, chicken, lamb and prawn
variations with basmati rice and a wide smile. Good not brilliant,
but oh, what a price. Wine for just 150K too. Oh, and they serve
pizza too ? QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (100 - 170K). N
Masala J-5, Praha 2, Mnesova 13, MMuzeum, tel.
(+420) 722 90 76 66, www.masala.cz. Authentic (no
beef) and not (dried fruit in the samosas) at the same time,
but Masala has an owner who understands customer service
and therefore whatever quibbles you have with it today, tomor-
row they may be gone. The spice quotient is up to you and the
vindaloo was delicious without being nuclear. With homemade
ingredients and divine desserts; Masala is looking like one of
the best Indian options in town. Reservations recommended -
it is very small. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. (100 - 250K). AS
International
Allegro D-2, Praha 1, Veleslavnova 2a, MStaromstsk,
tel. (+420) 221 42 70 00, www.fourseasons.com. Prague's
first, and still only, Michelin Star rated restaurant. The qual-
ity of the Four Seasons hotel chain is obvious in the classic,
oak-panelled line of Allegro's interior as well as by the range of
delicious Italian and Bohemian specialties on offer. Their view
of the Vlatava and castle can't be beaten, although their prices
can. Often named the best restaurant in Prague. QOpen 07:00
- 23:00, Sun 11:30 - 15:00. (950 - 1,150K). PAUEG
Ambiente Pasta Fresca F-3, Praha 1, Celetn 11, MNm.
Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 23 02 44, www.ambi.cz. This
classic yet laid back Italian serves up delicous and not over-priced
culinary creations, and the service is superb. Try the carpaccio con
tartufi to begin and if you make it past the long list of homemade
pasta, the steak and salmon are both expertly cooked. Chocolate
fondue for dessert is a great finish for a great meal in a great
restaurant. Check out their excellent lunch deals. QOpen 11:00
- 24:00. Caf 10:00-24:00 (120 - 350K). PAG
Bed Lounge E-2, Praha 1, Dlouh 2, MStaromstsk,
tel. (+420) 222 31 43 58, www.bedlounge.cz. Sometimes,
it's just too much work to sit in a chair and eat. Thank good-
ness for Bed Lounge. Its location right off of Old Town Square
means you can have a meal and take a nap with out missing a
sightseeing step. If you are looking to experience this novelty,
it might be better to just go for a couple of cocktails. The food
menu includes sheet friendly items such as lamb chops with
potato puree and spaghetti with mozzarella and cherry toma-
toes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. 255-485 K. JW
PALLADIUM, Nmst Republiky 1
2. (gurmnsk) patro
Get spoiled by the oriental atmosphere! Have a seat and taste the
traditional south and north indian specialties made by indian chef of
his recipes.
Ve stylov restauraci, nesouc indick ensk jmno Chanchala, na Vs
dchne prav atmosfra orientln Indie. Ochutnejte tradin
speciality severn a jin Indie, pipraven indickm fkuchaem
dle vlastnch receptur.
Enjoy the Chanchala oriental atmosphere ...
Za vn orientu do restaurace CHANCHALA ...
*bar *oko-fontna *catering *jdlo s sebou *rozvoz jdel *prty na kl *lekce vaen
*domc prty s kuchaem *ajovna *vodn dmka *orientln hudba *keramika
INDIAN RESTAURANT
CHANCHALA
Table reservation: +420 225 771 150
www.chanchala.cz, info@chanchala.cz
30
RESTAURANTS
31
RESTAURANTS
Bellevue C-3, Praha 1, Smetanovo nbe 18,
MNrodn tda, tel. (+420) 222 22 14 43, www.pfd.
cz. A fantastic setting, looking out to Charles Bridge, the
castle and the Vl tava, and a classic atmosphere sets the
scene for you to feel dead posh if you want and if you can
afford it. Chef Petr Bures prepares dishes like fillet of fallow
deer wi th rose hip sauce, caramelised pears, homemade
sptzle and wild mushrooms. Try their jazz brunch on Sundays.
QOpen 12:00 - 15:00 & 17:30-23:00. (1,000 - 2,000K).
PTAUEGB
Brasserie Praha I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 8 (Prague Mar-
riott Hotel), MNm. Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 88 12
12, www.marriottprague.com. This subtle space inside
the Prague Marriott is classy yet laid back. Dishes from the
open kitchen are simple, delicious and classicall y interna-
tional, heavy on the French. Top choices include the lamb
shank with creamed spinach and crushed potatoes and the
French onion soup. QOpen 06:30 - 11:00 & 12:00-23:00.
(195 - 625K). AE
ern slon F-2, Praha 1, Tnsk 1, MStaromstsk,
tel. (+420) 222 32 15 21, www.hotelcernyslon.cz.
For a taste of medi eval li ving, dine bel ow the vaul ted ceil-
ings of this small restaurant in an anci ent building across
the narrow street from Tn Church. Feast on wild boar,
venison, and classi c European dishes or just opt for the
Old Town plate consisting of pork, roast duck, sausages,
dumplings and cabbage. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (100 -
400K). PAB
City Cafe Cosmopolit 4-H, Praha 1, Splen 29,
MNrodn tda, tel. (+420) 222 54 00 64/(+420)
777 25 39 65, cafe@cafecosmopolit.cz, www.cafecos-
mopolit.cz. A pleasant place to wile away some hours; City
Cafe Cosmopoli t offers a kick-back lounge on the ground
floor with a stylish restaurant above. Cuisine is an eclectic
mix of continental, modern Czech and Asian. Of note is their
big sushi selection and wine list; which consists of more than
50 bottles; all available by the glass. Serves breakfast too.
QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. 115 - 350
K. TJA
Esprit Orangerie Praha 4, Na Pankrci 15/1684,
MVysehrad, tel. (+420) 296 89 50 30, www.holiday-
inn.cz. Modern Czech and international cuisine served up
in a lovel y designer space. Espri t Orangerie is a decidedl y
di fferent hotel restaurant, worthy of a visi t even i f you aren't
staying at the Holiday Inn. Czech special ties like beef and
duck are beauti full y presented; and their dessert chef ob-
viousl y enjoys his job. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00. 340-590k.
PTHABS
Hergetova Cihelna C-2, Praha 1, Ciheln 2b, MMalos-
transk, tel. (+420) 257 53 55 34, www.kampagroup.
com. Part of the Kampa Group of restaurants, this is a winner
in every respect. A huge menu of Czech and international fa-
vourites tantalises, with great Neapolitan pizza's thrown in for
good measure. Sunday brunch with professionals on hand to
look after your kids while you relax. We love it and you will too.
Check out the upstairs lounge complete with pool table and big
screen. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00. (70 - 400K). PTAEGB
Hybernia I-3, Praha 1, Hybernsk 7, MNm. Republiky,
tel. (+420) 224 22 60 04, www.hybernia.cz. To see the
wait staff in action is like watching ballet with the fast forward
button jammed down - understandable when you see the
queue at lunchtime. Baked, boiled, fried and grilled meat rules
the realm here whether it be beef, pork, duck or other poultry.
Vegetarian dishes are also available but we suspect it's just
an attempt to be politicall y correct. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30,
Sat, Sun 10:30 - 23:30. (100 - 250K). PTAEGB
La Degustation F-2, Praha 1, Hatalsk 18, MNm.
Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 31 12 34, www.ladegusta-
tion.cz. This self-styled Bohemian Bourgeoisie restaurant
from the Ambiente Group is a luxurious corner restaurant
with an open kitchen and a private dining room feel to it. Set
menus intrigue the senses with a heady list of amuse-bouche,
there is a pre- and post-theatre menu, and the sommelier
has created a superb wine list. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00, Tue,
Wed, Thu 12:00 - 14:30. Closed Sun. (945 - 2,450K). A
La Galerie H-7, Praha 2, Na Slupi 2b, MKarlovo nmst,
tel. (+420) 236 07 10 28, info@lagalerie.cz, www.
lagalerie.cz;. Simple quali ty is how best to describe La
Galerie. The menu has a small selection, carefull y chosen
and prepared by Chef Mikul Gottwald. Gottwald has worked
at top British and Austrian restaurants and combines flavors
gloriousl y. Take the slightl y boiled lobster tail with steamed
lettuce salad and mango in a cognac mousse, for example.
Massive wine list too. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. Czech cuisine is
served from 11:00-23:00; an international menu from 18:00-
24:00. Starters: 300k, Mains: 500k, Desserts: 250k.
Le Grill J-3, Praha 1, Hybernsk 12, MNmst Republiky,
tel. (+420) 226 22 61 11, www.kempinski-prague.com. A
magical combination of local and international cuisine, Le Grill,
inside the Kempinski Hotel is really pretty good. Yes, it's in a ho-
tel, but skip that fact and savor Chef Marek Fichtner advanced
kitchen skills. The beef and lamb are both excellent choices
and whatever you do save room for dessert; order pralines and
the black forest cake. Q Daily: Breakfast: 7:00-11:00; Lunch:
12:00-15:00; Dinner: 18:00-22:30 360-880k. PYA
Ml nec C- 3, Pr aha 1, Novot nho l vka 9,
pfd.cz. The Mill has the wonderful setting by the tower on
the east end of Charles Bridge, and as such the terrace is a
veritable who's who of Prague A-listers. Not surprising when
the chef is Marek Purkart, the first man to receive the Michelin
Bibendum twice. Sample his grilled New Zealand lamb chops
with truffle sauce, green broad beans and coucous. Q Open
12:00 - 15:00; 17:30 - 23:00. (600 - 1,500K). PAUEB
Monarch E-2, Praha 1, V Kolkovn 6, MStaromstsk,
tel. (+420) 222 31 55 45, info@monarch.cz, www.mon-
arch.cz. The Monarch people are all about the wine, so you'll
be sure to have an extensive selection to mull over. This is a
wine bar and a grill so excellent cuisine to accompany your
bottle, like steak, fish, pork and chicken. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00,
Sun 17:00 - 22:00. (145-489 CZK) Also operate a wine bar at
Na Pertn 15, 224 23 96 02. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00.
Mount Steak D-3, Praha 1, Josefsk 1, MMalostran-
sk, tel. (+420) 257 53 26 52, www.mount-steak.cz.
Mountains of steak, mountains of choice, mountains of
choice steak, from the regular beef and pork to the more
exotic shark and crocodile. This place is for meat lovers,
in case you hadn't noticed, al though they do have a very
limi ted vegetarian section. QOpen, Mon 17:00 - 23:00,
Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.
(150 - 480K). PAG
Nostress E-1, Praha 1, Dun 10, MStaromstsk,
tel. (+420) 222 31 70 07, www.nostress.cz. They're
not ki dding. Wi th comfor tabl e desi gner furni ture and
steady ambient musi c, stress is the last thing on your
mind. Fusion and Asian cuisine dominate the menu, but
you shouldn't pass up a chance to try one of the delicious
Belgian desserts - the owner is Belgian. Highlights include
dim sum and wontons as well as celebri ty sightings (Joseph
Fiennes, Maggie Smi th and, er, Begbie). Loud li ve music on
Saturday evenings. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (250 - 600K).
PAIE
Perfect I-3, Praha 1, Soukenick 4, MNmst Repub-
liky, tel. (+420) 222 31 16 00, www.perfectrestaurant.
cz. A very risky name for a new restaurant, but the cheeky
guys running this caf/restaurant/club certainly have a point.
With great breakfast deals, the 195-295K eat-all-you-can
lunch menus and imaginative a-la-carte dining in the evening,
it certainl y sounds perfect - there's even a children's menu.
After dark, the place transforms into a club with daily DJ music
and a wide range of cocktails. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30. Closed
Sun. PAGX
Pizzeria U Tuk Praha 5, Ndran 19, MAndl,
tel. (+420) 257 31 66 50. Colourful yet sterile, but the
food is well prepared, large and well priced. The pizza oven
keeps the place warm, al though is more than pizza on their
menu. Chicken steak wi th beauti full y poached salmon and
spinach is delicious and comes wi th a tasty cheese sauce.
The plate of chicken, roast broccoli and potatoes au gratin
a huge meal for 139K. Beer is a tad expensi ve, but the
cocktail list makes up for this. Everything is fresh and the
staff good. All in all a great place. The interesting looking
music bar downstairs is open from 16:00 - 04:00. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. (85 - 260K).
Pravda E-2, Praha 1, Pask 17, MStaromstsk, tel.
(+420) 222 32 62 03, www.pravdarestaurant.cz. Not
just the name of the old communist party mouthpiece (and
a terrific Tom Stoppard play), but also a successful dining
room, with huge windows for maximum pose street visibility,
great high white walls and a very enviable mezzanine floor
shaped like a box at the opera. The vichysoisse 165K and
a delicious tagliatelle with parma ham 245K, are very good.
Another Tommy Sj restaurant. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00.
(250 - 600K). PAGB
Primitiv Pravk I-5, Praha 2, Sokolsk 60, MI.P.
Pavlova, tel. (+420) 224 94 19 38, www.pravek.cz.
The fourth of these prehistoric themed restaurants that
serve slabs of everything from ostrich to game, chicken
to salmon, wi th more than a li ttle Yabba-dabba-doo. Gi ve
yoursel f up to total immersion into all things Fred Flintstone
from the faux rock, mammoth tusk dcor to the hunter-
gatherer por ti ons of meat, wi th si gnature sauces and
not many vegetables. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Mon, Tue
12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Also at Prague 2, Nezamyslova
10, tel. 224 93 62 72; Prague 5, Na Blidle 40, tel. 257
32 69 08, Prague 7, Milady Horkov 52, tel. 233 31 08
84. (80 - 280K).
Some useless facts to amaze your family and friends.
The very first fair in the world took place in August
1754 in Veltrusy. It was called Veltrusk velk trh tovaru
Krlovstv eskho or The Big Fair of Goods of the Czech
Kingdom in Veltrusy.
Europes only chain bridge can be found over the Lunice
River in the South Bohemian town of Stdlec. The bridge
was constructed in the first half of the 19th century and
is still in use today.
So-called Burgundy Blue grapes; used to make Pinot
Noir, were imported to Moravia by Charles IV. In Czech,
the wine is called Rulandsk modr.
Pocket Lint
Interested in learning more about the events and im-
portant places of the Velvet Revolution? While on your
travels through the Nov Msto parts of Prague 1, be
sure to watch the street signs and your maps for these
buildings. Most arent well-known or particularly of inter-
est when strolling by; but they were keeping a watchful
eye over the historical occurrences of that fateful time.
Read a full accounting of events on Page 15.
Corner of Nrodn tda and Mikulandsk: This is the
place where the students met up with the riot police dur-
ing their peaceful march on November 17th. More than
165 students were injured with nightsticks wielded by the
officers. There is a bronze sculpture commemorating the
action under the arches of the restaurant on the corner.
This event came to be known as the Masakr.
Ve Smekch 26, inohern Klub Theatre: Now
popularly known as the strip club street this theatre
is where Vclav Havel and other dissidents formed the
Civic Forum, a group of individuals who protested the
current government and acted as a spokesgroup for
other like-minded citizens. After the Masakr, theatres
across Prague cancelled their performances and held
public discussions instead. It was at one of these discus-
sions, on November 19, that Civic Forum was founded.
Vclavsk nmst: One of the most recognizable Velvet
Revolution sites, mass demonstrations were held practically
constantly here from November 18 onwards. For the people
of Prague, the Wenceslas Monument is a typical meeting
point. During the protests, the monument was adorned with
posters, flags and political slogans. Here also is the Memorial
to the Victims of Communism. In November 1989, however
there was no memorial here, but the spot has historical
significance. In 1969 a student set himself on fire here in
protest of the ongoing Soviet occupation. One month later,
another student did the same. During the events of 1989,
students set up a shrine to communist regime victims, and
today you can see the permanent memorial.
Vclavsk nmst 36: What is now a Marks and Spen-
cer was originally the home of the Melantrich Publishing
House and the Socialist Party newspaper. It was from the
balconies here that Vclav Havel and other dissidents
addressed the crowds gathered on the Square below.
Adria Palc, Jungmannovo nmst: Civic Forum
headquarters in the two weeks it took for the Communist
government to fall.
Letn Plain: Site of a massive demonstration that signalled
the beginning of the end on November 25 & 26. Nearly
750,000 people gathered for the demonstrations held here.
Pocket Watch
32
RESTAURANTS
33
RESTAURANTS
Sutern G-5, Praha 1, Masarykovo nb. 26, MNrod
tda, tel. (+420) 224 93 36 57, www.suteren.com. Featur-
ing such alcohol-flavoured dishes as salmon mojito - marinaded
with Caribbean rum and mint, pheasant on slivovice and even
lemon sorbet with vodka, this place is too intriguing to miss. The
eclectic menu lists New Zealand mussels, Moscow caviar, escar-
got, carpaccio and pasta, plus Thai dishes. In the cellar, modern
furnishings complement the bare brick walls. QOpen 11:30
- 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (150 - 320K). PA
Svat Klra Praha 7, U Trojskho zmku 35, tel. (+420)
233 54 01 73, www.svataklara.cz. For something com-
pletel y different, descend 16m underground in this natural
cave made into a wine cellar and restaurant. The rough stone
is cheered up with classical furniture and artworks, and the
classy menu features Czech game dishes such as pheasant
breast with forest herbs and sage. Join the likes of Brangelina
and find Svat Klra near Trojska castle, a short taxi ride from
town. QOpen 18:00 - 00:00. (300 - 1,440K). PAI
U Dominikna D-3, Praha 1, Jilska 7, MMstek, tel.
(+420) 224 24 85 55, info@savic.eu, www.savic.eu. A
lovely international mix of cuisine. U Dominikna offers up pastas,
seafood and Czech dishes in a classy and inviting space. Their
smoked salmon risotto melts in the mouth, and their traditional
Moravian plate offers up a delectable sample of regional special-
ties - for those with an appetite. Q 199-595 K. JB
U Emy Destinnov I6, Praha 2, Katensk 7, MKar-
lovo nm., tel. (+420) 224 91 84 25, u-emydestinnove@
seznam.cz. Buil t in the birthplace building of the opera star,
U Emy Destinnov is global cuisine at its very best. A cosy
interior envelopes you and detracts nothing from the menu
of steaks, seafood and regional special ties. The scallops are
a highlight, as is the grilled eggplant. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30,
Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. 180-420k.
U Zlat studn B-1, Praha 1, U Zlat studn 4,
zlatastudna.cz. U Zlat studn is still making waves in
Prague's restaurant scene after a successful opening. Sit-
ting high above the city thanks to its roof-top elevation, it
still manages to snuggle beneath the castle, and the classic
architectural lines set the scene for quality cuisine and vintage
wines. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (400 - 690K). PTAB
Villa Richter Restaurants C1, Praha 1, Star zmeck
schody 6, MMalostransk, tel. (+420) 257 21 90 79,
info@villarichter.cz, www.villarichter.cz. This newl y
opened trio of restaurants sits right below Prague Castle in
the recently restored St. Wenceslas' Vineyards. The amazing
view is the main reason to go; the food is way overpriced for the
quality. Panorama Pergola is a good stopping spot for a glass of
wine or quick bite; small snacks like soups and sausage make
up the menu. Mid-range, price wise is Piano Terra. A huge ter-
race and Baroque inside dining room support a menu of mainly
Czech game specialties. The cushiest venue is Piano Nobile
whose menu includes a variety of seafood and whose seats
are made up of large couches outside and a glass-covered
interior. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Piano Nobile: 590-710K, Piano
Terra: 140-280K, Panorama Pergola: 80-160K. JAB
Vl tava H- 2, Praha 1, nm. Curi eovch 100,
hotelpresident.cz. The appropriately named restaurant has
panoramic views of the river, a suitabl y designed interior and
creative menu to match. Steak with roasted shallots served
with mashed potato, monkfish, Tandoori and delicious des-
serts to match the good wine list. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00 &
18:30-23:30. PTA
V Zti D-3, Praha 1, Liliov 1, MMstek, tel. (+420)
222 22 11 55, www.vzatisi.cz. A restaurant and wine
bar that is possibl y the best in Prague. Wi thout being
snooty, i t manages to serve fabulous and inventi ve meals
to a middle-aged crowd of foreigners and locals. Indeed,
the best things about i t (apart from the delicious pear-gor-
gonzola salad, the chocolate parfai t wi th raspberries and
the perfect latte) are the relaxed, intimate atmosphere,
and the wai ters who enjoy their jobs and know their wines.
Not to be missed. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00; 17:30 - 23:00.
(600 - 1,500K). PAUG
Zinc I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 7, MNmst Republiky,
tel. (+420) 221 82 23 00, zinc@hilton.com, www.
zinc.cz. Gordon Ramsey moved out and Zinc has moved
in. The new Hil ton Old Town restaurant replaces Ramsey's
short-li ved Maze and is promising modern European cuisine
wi th Asian flavours. That means you can feast on such
creati vi ties as miso glazed Chilean sea bass or lacquered
duck ravi oli and pan-fri ed foi e gras. Executi ve chef Ari
Munandar hails from Indonesia and has a well-deserved
excell ent reputati on in Prague and el sewhere. A Thai
sous chef adds to the Asian flair. QOpen 18:00 - 23:00.
Open for breakfast 6:30-10:30 & lunch from 12:00-15:00.
480-680 K.
Italian
Amici Miei H3, Praha 1, Vzesk 5, MStaromstsk,
tel. (+420) 224 81 66 88, ristorante@amicimiei.cz,
www.amicimiei.cz. Welcome friends to this Italian oasis in
Old Town. Located in the heart of the city, but off the typical
tourist path means consistent quali ty food and excellent
service. Seafood lovers should swim in; fish is delivered fresh
every other day. The focus is on traditional Italian favorites
and here you can't choose wrong. The linguini with crawfish
or the ravioli with artichokes both get high praise. QOpen
11:30 - 23:00. 350-850k. JB
Aromi K-5, Praha 2, Mnesova 78, MJiho z Podbrad,
tel. (+420) 222 71 32 22, www.aromi.cz. Simplici ty,
tradition, passion' is the Anatevka-like motto of this upmarket
Vinohrady's Italian, but there's no fiddling on the roof here. At
Aromi there's a compact choice of excellent pasta, meat and
fish dishes, complemented by an equall y good wine list. As a
resul t, the spacious L-shaped space holds happy locals and
expats enjoying the moment. Reservations recommended.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (95 - 395K).
PAG
Giovanni E-3, Praha 1, Kon 11, MStaromstsk,
tel. (+420) 221 63 26 05. The bi ts of exposed rock,
the walls and vaul ted ceiling of this cosy restaurant are
a respectable faux medieval. Luckil y, the stars, vines and
other painted flora wont distract you from the menu, which
is so extensi ve that we gave up hal fway through i t. I f i ts
I talian and you want i t, chances are Giovannis got i t and
i ts good. The Balkan breakfast sounds appealing, but
avoid the bruschetta at all costs. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
(100 - 350K). A
Kogo E-3, Praha 1, Havelsk 27, MMstek, tel. (+420)
224 21 45 43, www.kogo.cz. Kogo is one of the best
restaurants in Prague, for all number of reasons. Location,
service, consistent high quali ty food, and ambience. The
atmosphere is trendy and businesslike, full of movers and
shakers enjoying good pasta, seafood and one of the best
wine lists in the city. We love it. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 23:00. Also at F-3, Praha 1, Na pkop 22
(Slovansky Dm). (120 - 250K). PTAUB
The Czech language is notoriously di fficult for foreign
tongues to get to grips with, not only for the unusual let-
ters, but also because it is a heavily declined language.
Your menu will hold various variations on the theme, but
with the following words as a basis, you should be able
to figure out whats in your mouth.
bez masa without meat
biftek beefsteak
brambor potato
domc home made
duen steamed
grilovan grilled
gul goulash, the Czech staple
hermeln brie, often pickled with garlic
and eaten with beer
hovz beef
hranolky chips/french fries
jehn lamb
jdeln lstek food menu
jdlo food
knedlky dumplings
kue chicken
losos salmon
na rotu roasted
npojov lstek drinks menu
niva blue cheese
obd lunch
zek schnitzel
ovoce fruit
palainky crepe
peen baked
pivn sr beer cheese, hard and served with
paprika and onion, eaten with beer
plnn stuffed
plohy side dishes
polvka soup
pstruh trout
ryba fish
re rice
sekan meatloaf; looks awful, tastes good
slanina bacon
smaen fried
smaen sr fried cheese, surprisingly good
sndan breakfast
svkov beef in cream sauce
sr cheese
pz grilled and skewered
unka ham
tstoviny pasta
utopenec a.k.a. drowned man,
pickled sausage, eaten with beer
uzen smoked
vaen boiled
veee dinner
vepov pork
vepov koleno pork knee,
particularly carnivorous
vinn lstek wine menu
zelenina vegetables
The Czech Menu
H O T E L P A R I S * * * * *
U Obecnho domu 1, 110 00 Prague 1, Czech Republic
Phone: +420 222 195 195, fax: +420 224 225 475
booking@hotel-paris.cz, www.hotel-paris.cz
I N A R T N O U V E A U S T Y L E
Lunch or Dinner
at Art Nouveau Style?
Caf de Paris is famous meeting point in town
whenever its business breakfast of friendly
chat over coffee & delicious.
Brasserie Sarah Bernhardt gently and with
attentive effortlessness ties French gourmet
cuisine and advanced Czech gastronomy
in one outstanding experience.
Please let us invite you to a table and show
how enjoyable dining with us might be!
34
RESTAURANTS
35
RESTAURANTS
NEW
La Finestra in Cucina D-3, Praha 1, Platnsk 13,
MStaromstsk, tel. 222 32 53 25, reservations@
lafinestra.cz, www.lafinestra.cz. Looking into this kitchen
window (which is a loose translation of the restaurant's name)
and you'll see a rustic atmosphere and people enjoying some
good cooking. Risotto with truffles and the chocolate cake
with truffles are both outstanding. And if it is meat you be
wanting; a nice man will bring you a platter full of it, for you
to select your own veal, beef or what have you. If you reall y
want to watch the chefs at work, sit in the back. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 245-495 K.
La Rustica K-6, Praha 10, Donsk 11, MNm. Mru, tel.
(+420) 271 74 04 74. Homespun charm in this homel y Ital-
ian with homemade pasta. Garlic is a well-used ingredient, so
dates should taste each other's dishes to spread the weal th,
and when you see plates piled high, you want to try everything
the waiter walks by with anyway. Large floor to ceiling windows
allow air and light to accompany your excellentl y priced and
expertl y presented salads, pasta, steaks and even crocodile
(549K). Simple but tasty and cheap. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(150 - 500K). AS
Mirellie Praha 6, V.P. kalova 14, MDejvick, tel.
(+420) 222 95 99 99, mirellie@mirellie.cz, www.mirel-
lie.cz. Mirellie offers an extensive menu served in elegant
surroundings. The interiors are smooth and classy; an excel-
lent background for their good-sized wine list. Make your
first course a pasta one; perhaps penne with fresh spinach
and pesto. Move onto the meat course; beef with garlic and
rosemary or baked lamb with truffle cream. Seafood and pizza
also make the list. If you are in this Prague 6 neighbourhood;
make it around a meal time for a visit to Mirellie. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. 125 - 395K. A
Osteria De Clara Praha 10, Mexick 7, tel. (+420) 271
72 65 48, daclara@seznam.cz. A not-so-good location on
the Vinohrady/Vrovice border is an unfortunate fact of this
nice Italian eatery. Small menu of basic hearty meals; stuffed
zucchini, rigatoni ragu, pork fillet. All are well-prepared and
a relaxed atmosphere makes this an excellent quiet spot.
Let's hope it doesn't stay too quiet. QOpen 11:30 - 15:00,
18:00 23:30, Sat 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00-23:30. Closed Sun.
130-250K.
Japanese & Korean
Hanabi Hibachi House J3, Praha 1, Petrsk 11,
MFlorenc, tel. (+420) 224 32 46 34, www.ihanabi.
cz. DIY elegance at this new hidden Japanese joint. Lovel y
interiors boast warm colors enlivened with bonsai and bam-
boo trees. Choose shabu shabu or sukiyaki and a selection
of fresh, raw vegetables and meats will be brought to your
table; which convenientl y has it's own cooker. Prefer to watch
someone else sweat over the stove? Sit at the bar and order
teppan-yaki; literall y grilled on an iron plate - and right in front
of you. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. 460-1650k. J
Korea House I-5, Praha 2, Sokolsk 52, MI. P. Pavlova,
tel. (+420) 224 26 62 46, www.koreahouse.cz. Paper
lanterns illuminate the yellow walls that feature manl y Asian
men wrestling, shouting and smoking. The colourful interior is
as chaotic as the menu which lists both Korean and Japanese
specialities such as pibimbap and loads of sushi. A celebrity
has left a saucy slogan next to his picture in mysterious
characters, but it's all Korean to us. The food is good, but the
servings could be bigger for all the cabbage one has to pay.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (300 - 500K). PTA
Made In Japan D- 3, Praha 1, Kovnick 4,
MStaromstsk, tel. (+420) 608 74 96 50, www.ma-
deinjapan.cz. The sushi bar by the Four Seasons captures
the raw tourist wi th a wide and colourful menu including
sashimi and nigri, roe and eel, while the sister restaurant
provides tempura and teriyaki. A good combo. A buy two get
one free happy hour runs from 15:00 - 18:00 at the sushi
bar. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Also at E-4, Rytsk 10, tel. 224
235 604. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (100 - 500K). AGPS
Man-na E-1, Praha 1, U Milosrdnch 10, MStaromstsk,
tel. (+420) 222 32 01 01. A new Korean restaurant serv-
ing up spicy kimchi, bulgogi (beef BBQ) and other Korean
specialities such as snails and octopus to stir fry and glazed
pigs feet. If that doesnt tempt you, perhaps their 500K/hr
karaoke room might. Q Open 11:30 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:00;
18:00 - 23:00 Sun. (200 - 350K). A
Mash Hana Badeniho 3, MHradansk, tel. (+420)
224 32 40 34. Brand-spanking new sushi house right
around the corner from the Hradansk metro station.
Warm feelings embrace you as you enter thanks to the
welcoming smiles and delicious smells. Sushi is lovingl y
displayed amidst the cozy surroundings of wood, paper
lanterns and fans. Defini tel y check i t out. QOpen 11:30
- 22:30. Closed Sun.
Nagoya Praha 5, Stroupenickho 23, MAndl,
tel. (+420) 251 51 17 24, www.nagoya.cz. The first
genuine Japanese restaurant in Prague. Nagoya comes
complete wi th i ts authentic Japanese chef and food that
has quickl y become very popular wi th Prague foodies and
visi tors alike. Sushi, sashimi, tempura, noodles... all are
here, and all are well done. Thoroughl y recommended.
Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue. (140
- 440K). AGP
Planet Sushi Praha 5, Ndran 110, MAndl,
tel. (+420) 257 28 62 61. An oasi s of Japanese
calm among the urban bustl e of Andl/Smchov's busy
thoroughfare, al though the ambi ence i s marred sli ghtl y
by the proximi ty and shared bathrooms of the adjacent
TGI Friday. Attenti ve staff and compl ete menu including
yami roll s and desser ts provide an al ternati ve to the
Japanese restaurants already in the area. Eat all you
can on Sundays for 600K. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(200 - 750K). PAG
Sushi Bar G-5, Praha 5, Zborovsk 49, MAndl, tel.
(+420) 603 24 48 82, www.sushi.cz. The freshest fish for
the best sushi, this place does it - but for a price. Try the sushi
menu for a selection sampler - the three piece Temaki Sushi
set and nine piece Sashimi set was handsomel y presented
and deliciousl y refreshing. Superb service and intimate set-
ting make this a continual favourite. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
(250 - 500K). AP
Lebanese
El Emir Nmst Republiky 1, MNmst Republiky,
tel. (+420) 225 771 886, www.palladiumpraha.cz.
Not that we'd usuall y recommend dining at a shopping
centre, but El Emir Lebanese restaurant is something to
recommend. The dcor was well-thought out; including
curtained parti tions to separate you from the throng of
shoppers. All the Lebanese favs are here plus a variety
of grilled meats and a decent selection of lamb and fish.
Plus they have reall y nice sandwiches; so i t's perfect for
a lighter bi te of not-mall food. Inside the Palladium mall.
QOpen, Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 24:00. 100-370k.
U Cedru Praha 6, Nrodn obrany 27, MDejvick,
tel. (+420) 233 34 29 74. A long-timer wi th a popular-
i ty that is thoroughl y justi fied. Well-presented, good value
main dishes are available, while adventurous types can
put themsel ves in the hands of the wai ting staff who will
make a selection of delicacies. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(200 - 450K). APU
Saf ir Obchodn centrum Nov Smchov, Praha 5,
Plzesk 8, MAndl. It's true, Safir is in a mall and it is
self service, but for vine leaves, hummus, baba gannoush,
tabouleh, fatoush, falafel and gyros, you cannot complain with
the flavour or price. Hot meals such as grilled fish, chicken
in Mediterranean veggies etc. are dail y specials and for the
real fast foodies, grab a sandwich. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(45 - 200K). PTU
Il Giardino Praha 5, Mozartova 1 (Mvenpick Hotel),
MAndl, tel. (+420) 257 15 42 62, www.movenpick-
prague.com. Il Giardino is a hotel restaurant with a little
flair, created mostl y by the rooftop view over Prague, but
also by their varied Mediterranean menu. Q Open 05:30
- 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00. (400 - 1,000K). PTAUG
Petnsk Terasy A-4, Praha 1, Seminsk zahrada
13, tel. (+420) 257 32 06 88, www.petrinsketerasy.
cz. The restaurant with one of the best views of Prague sits
halfway up Petn Hill and is furnished in a Slovak country
cottage kind of way. Cuisine is the somewhat traditional
international and Czech variety, and live dulcimer music ac-
companies dinner. Take the funicular to the Nebozizek stop to
get here. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (160 - 280K). AIEB
TV Tower K-4, Praha 3, Mahlerovy sady, MJiho z
Podbrad, tel. (+420) 267 00 57 78, www.tower.cz.
Pragues tallest landmark seems equally loved and hated
by residents and tourists. Whichever your decision, the
view is tremendous and you can eat at the restaurant
or caf while contemplating the reality of vertigo. Prices
are higher (boom, boom) than at other, more down-to-
earth spots. You have to pay the 150/75K admission
fee regardless, but you will get a 5% discount on your
bill. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (180 - 350K). PTAL
Zlat Praha E-1, Praha 1, nm. Curieovch 43/5
(InterContinental Hotel), MStaromstsk, tel. (+420)
296 63 09 14, http://www.zlatapraharestaurant.cz.
From this vantage point youll be able to see a fair share of the
citys 100 spires. One the citys most renowned restaurants,
Golden Prague offers a changing menu of international and
Czech nouvelle cuisine, business lunches for the more budget
conscious gourmet, and a Sunday brunch accompanied
by live jazz. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00 & 18:00-23:00. Open
12:00 - 15:00; 18:00 - 23:30. (500 - 800K). PAEGB
Zvonice I-4, Praha 1, Jindisk v, MNm. Repub-
liky, tel. (+420) 224 22 00 09, www.restaurantz-
vonice.cz. If youre looking for something different and
dont have a fear of heights, then head to the top three
floors of this Gothic bell tower, complete with 15th century
bell. Zvonice is decorated with giant oak beams and serves
everything from snails, carpaccio, steak and fish to classic
Czech dishes. Dont miss the view from the gallery up top.
Gorgeous and exceedingly posh. Lunch menu for 290K.
QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (400 - 750K). A
Food with a view
TV
TOWER
The highest
building
in
Prague
Fedration Des Grandes Tours Du Monde
World Federation of Great Towers
PANORAMIC
OBSERVATION DECK
Open daily: 10.00 a.m. 11.00 p.m.
PANORAMIC RESTAURANT
Air-conditioned
Open daily: 11 a.m. 11.30 p.m.
Reservation tel: +420 242 418 778
PANORAMIC CAF BAR
Air-conditioned
Open daily: 10.30 a.m. 11.30 p.m.
Metro A, Stop Jiho z Podbrad
Address: Tower Praha a. s.
Mahlerovy sady 1, Praha 3
E-mail: info@tower.cz
www.tower.cz
36
RESTAURANTS
An Exquisite Indian & Mughlai Restaurant
with visual preparation of Tandoori Food!
Open daily 11-23, Tn 6, Prague 1 Old Town, tel: 222 310 156, Mob: 725 107 059,
Fax: 224 248 558, ind.jewel@savic.eu, www.indianjewel.cz
An Exquisite blend of aromatic
continental and Czech cuisine
in the heart of Prague!
Open daily 11-23
Jilsk 7, Prague 1 Old Town
tel: 221 089 888
fax: 224 248 558
udominikana@savic.eu
www.savic.eu
Medieval
Cartouche E-2, Praha 1, Blkova 14, MStaromstsk,
tel. (+420) 224 81 95 97, www.cartouche.cz. A dark
dungeon of delights awaits you, full of big and busty spit-
roasted or barbequed bones and live medieval music. Hale,
hearty and heavy - the food and the furniture. Enjoy, but go
hungry. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00.
(300 - 600K). AI
U Csa Praha 1, Loretnsk 5, tel. (+420) 220 51
84 84, www.ucisaru.cz. Top-class medieval dining in the
centre of cobbled, old world Prague. A beauti ful Gothic wine
cellar is at your disposal to reall y make you feel that your
rightful place is down the road at the castle. The chefs
have catered various state dinners, and the prices tend
to illustrate this. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. (250 - 950K).
PAILEB
U Sdl I-3, Praha 1, Klimentsk 2, MNm. Republiky,
tel. (+420) 224 81 38 74, www.usadlu.cz. Gargantuan
medieval banqueting (wi th appropriate carni vorous leanings
as well as great fish) served by buxom Hell's Angels in a
cavernous remake of the set of Monty Python and the Hol y
Grail. Tankards of ale slapped down in front of you until you
scream 'when!' and indulge your I vanhoe fantasies. Book
earl y or take a battering ram. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 24:00. Also at J-5, Praha 2, Balbnova 22. (150 -
300K). PAI
U Sedmi vb A-2, Praha 1, Jnsk vrek 14,
MMalostransk, tel. (+420) 257 53 14 55, info@
svabove.cz, www.svabove.cz. Yet more medieval she-
nanigans in the requisi te cellar space where fire-eating,
dueling and even torture takes place as you dine. Tradi tional
recipes employing onl y authentic 15th and 16th century
ingredients means no tomatoes or potatoes. Fun, games
and lots of meat. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 450K).
AEGIP
Mexican & Tex-Mex
Amigos J-5, Praha 2, Anny Letensk 16, MNm. Mru,
tel. (+420) 222 25 05 94, www.amigos.cz. The menu
is enormous, amusing, and wi th some topless shots to
keep you turning the pages. The spice in the air and eyes
bodes well for chilli-ed authentici ty. Chimichanga is as tasty
as i t's fun to say, steaks are large and tender, vegetarian
options abound, cocktails are cheap and deli very is avail-
able. What more do you want? QOpen 11:30 - 24:00.
(50 - 160K). ES
Azteca B-4, Praha 1, n 9, tel. (+420) 257 32 73
89, www.azteca.cz. The menu offers the standard Mexican
fare with drinks in the same vein: mojitos and margaritas, in
fact, the bar does a fair business on its own, apart from the
spicy food on offer in the restaurant. Excellent, spicy nachos.
Al though we're not too sure about the OTT neo-Alamo dcor,
Azteca offers good fajitas, enchiladas and quesadilla, along
with over 25 types of tequila. Lunch menu 70K but theres
nothing Mexican on it. Good wine list, Staropramen for 25K
and Corona 70K. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 380K). A
Cantina A-4, Praha 1, jezd 38, MMalostransk, tel.
(+420) 257 31 71 73, www.restauracecantina.cz. A
warm and atmospheric Mexican, serving Texan-sized portions
of decent grub and small swimming pool sized margaritas that
slip down far too easil y. The fajitas are excellent, al though we
suggest you may want some extra salsa to add some zing.
QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (120 - 300K). AEB
Middle Eastern
Babylon I-7, Pod Karlovem 12, MI. P. Pavlova, tel.
(+420) 222 56 10 21, www.restaurace-babylon.cz.
I t's Greek, i t's I talian, i t's steak, i t's fish. Babyl on may
be tr ying to appeal to all peopl e, and they actuall y are
doing a fairl y good j ob of i t. One of the newer restaurants
in Vinohrady, i ts out of the way l ocati on may prevent
peopl e from stumbling onto i t; but i f you are staying/
visi ting around the Vinohrady or Nusl e area you should
defini tel y stop by. Main meal dish portions are very gener-
ous, salads a bi t on the small er size. The Greek i tems are
usuall y the best; however the quali ty and presentati on
are qui te hi gh for everything we've seen. Oh, and the staff
is pl easant and accommodating. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
120-370k. PA
Dahab E-2, Praha 1, Dlouh 33, MNm. Republiky,
tel. (+420) 224 82 73 75, www.dahab.cz. Escape the
Baroque and step into this cool oasis of masterful mosa-
ics, oriental carpets and sweet tobacco smoke bubbling
from water pipes. Dishes run the gamut of Middle Eastern
delights and drinks are concocted from recipes gathered
from around the globe. Authentici ty's evil side is wi tnessed
in the squat toilet offered to horri fied tourists (there are
Western al ternati ves). QOpen 14:00 - 01:00. (65 - 330K).
PTAEGS
Metropol Music Cafe I-3, Praha 1, Na Po 12,
MFlorenc, tel. (+420) 775 322 895, metropol@Pra-
haEntertainment.com, www.metropol-prague.com..
They bill themsel ves as an Oriental restaurant - the menu
boasts a variety of yummy dishes like hummus, falafel,
chicken masala and beef fillet. We are very impressed with
Chef Sunny Passi - he's got a way with flavors. The restaurant
is above a caf and music club; but no loud music worries,
the restaurant is glass enclosed. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00.
110K-545K. JAE
Pizza
Coloseum I-4, Praha 1, Ovocn trh 8, MMstek, tel.
(+420) 224 23 83 55, www.pizzacoloseum.cz. A pizza-
maker slaving away in front of the flames of a wood-burning
oven is the onl y spectacle you'll witness at this coliseum.
Sample excellent pastas and pizzas made with real mozzarella
in a rustic setting. Try the Calabrese, it's what Yanks call a
pepperoni pie. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. Also at F-3, Vodikova
32. (100 - 200K). PAB
Giallo Rosa F-3, Praha 1, Jakubsk 2, MNm. Repub-
liky, tel. (+420) 604 89 89 89. This small take-away place
decked out in football scarves serves the closest thing to a
New York-style pizza that weve seen in Prague. Whats more
amazing is that it also provides as much oregano and spicy
oil as you need, gratis. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Fri 11:30 -
02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (From 25K/
slice). AGS
Gusto J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradsk 83, MJiho z
Podbrad, tel. (+420) 222 21 13 16, www.gusto.cz. A
long empty primo location on Vinohradska has been brightl y
filled by this massi ve pizza place, where the relati vel y high
pri ces are testament to the rent. Lunch specials dont
inspire, but the pizzas are well topped. Pasta purports to
be fresh A cool kids spot at the back will keep them en-
tertained for hours, and i f youre looking for a place to have
a pri vate party, the cellar is the place. Nothing to wri te home
about, but popular nonetheless. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(90 - 380K). ST
38
RESTAURANTS
Kmotra H-5, Praha 1, V Jirchch 12, MNrodn
tda, tel. (+420) 224 93 41 00, www.kmotra.cz. The
Godmother gathers extensi ve broods around her ankles
as she hands down the old famil y recipe for making great
pizzas from a wood-burning oven. Expect to jostle for a
place wi th the other wai fs and strays in need of the loving
care that is meted out here. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Also
at Praha 5, Jindicha Plachty 27. Open 11:00-24:00. (100 -
200K). PAS
Pizza Nuova Praha 1, Revolun 1, MNm. Repub-
liky, tel. (+420) 221 80 33 08, www.ambi.cz. The
Ambiente group turn their talented hands to this eat all
you can antipasti and/or pizza & pasta restaurant. Well
planned location adjacent to the massi ve shopping centre,
the Palladium, set to open late 2007. A huge restaurant
wi th trestle type seating, Ambiente's trademark flair and
an extensi ve I talian and Czech wine list. QOpen 11:30 -
23:30. APT
Rugantino E-2, Praha 1, Dun 4, MStaromstsk, tel.
(+420) 222 31 81 72, www.rugantino.cz. Great pizzas
and quick service make this a popular eatery with the lunch-
time office crowd. Classic Italian would be preferable to the
modern dcor, but that's just our opinion. On weekends the
place is much more laid-back. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun
12:00 - 23:00. (100 - 250K). PAUG
Seafood
Reykjavk D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 20, MStaromstsk,
tel. (+420) 222 22 12 18, www.reykjavik.cz. A plush, dark
wooden interior sets the scene for you to experience some
of the best seafood available in Prague. We can recommend
the 'fruit of the sea' soup or the tenderloin of tuna. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. (250 - 600K). ABEPT
Ryb trh E-2, Praha 1, Tnsk dvr 5, MStaromstsk,
tel. (+420) 224 89 54 47, www.rybitrh.cz. Wi thout a
doubt, this restaurant is a fish-lover's paradise. With a choice
from live or freshl y imported fish, one can swim through this
menu wi th delight knowing whatever is chosen will trul y
satisfy. Chef Pavel Mares works his magic on the Caribbean
Lobster, fresh from the aquarium in any style. St. Jacob's
scallops is a speciality onl y to be savoured, and the imperial
mussels trul y deserve their name. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
(190 - 890K). AG
Thai
Modr zub F-4, Praha 1, Jindisk 5, MMstek, tel.
(+420) 222 21 26 22, www.modryzub.com. The Blue
Tooth looks like an Ikea caf until you notice the bowls of spicy
noodles and curry being served by cheerful waitresses and
devoured by happy punters. This noodle bar takes Thai fast
food to a higher level with delicious curries, made to order
glass, rice and yellow noodle dishes, sushi, maki, soups and
salads. Excellent service, lovel y spot, NYC carton take out
boxes. Oh, and hot means hot. Blue is a theme: sister venues
are similarl y cool Ul tramarin and Blue Light. Q Open 09:00
- 23:00. Thu, Fri & Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (60 - 180K). TS
NOI A4, Praha 1, jezd 19, MMalostransk, tel. (+420)
257 31 14 11, info@noirestaurant.cz, www.noirestau-
rant.cz. A serene Thai restaurant, and thank goodness for
that. Quali ty Thai food is often hard to find here, but NOI
brings authentic Thai chefs to prepare its tom yam koong,
khao pad koong and khao pad kai. Lovel y staff and a Zen
interior complete the experience. QOpen 9am - midnight.
150-290k. PAGBXS
NEW
SaSaZu K-1, Praha 7, Bubensk nbe 306, MVl-
tavsk, tel. 284 09 74 44, info@sasazu.com, www.
sasazu.com. Hip and stylish new Thai/Asian restaurant in
the al ways emerging Holeovice district. The wow factor of
the dcor hasn't yet transferred to the menu or service; which
right now we'll generously put down to growing pains. Current
notables include the Thai papaya salad; Ga curry, SaSa crispy
roll and the red beef curry. Maybe skip dinner and just hit the
other half of the reconstructed warehouse building; which is
a dance club. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. 110-295 K. AEK
NEW
Sawadi Praha 10, Kodask, MNm Mru, tel. 241 74
28 88, sawadi@seznam.cz. No one is going to rave about the
Thai food in Prague; however Sawadi is a tasty addition. Here
you'll get some spicy flavor lacking at many other Thai restau-
rants; anything chili-based is worth ordering if you need some
heating up. Tom Yam Gung soup; Sen Lek pad Thai and the
fire pot entrees are all recommended. Look carefully for the
entrance and don't expect a lush dining room. But do enjoy what
will be a delicious meal. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. 140-230 K.
Siam Orchid I-3, Praha 1, Na Po 21, MNm. Republiky,
tel. (+420) 222 31 94 10, www.siamorchid.cz. Evocative
aromas entice to this hidden first floor restaurant. While the
authenticity of the place is not added to by the dcor, the Thai
massage next door (600K/hr), Singha beer and mention of
farangs on the menu point to a real Thai dining experience. And
the food doesnt disappoint. A true and delicious slice of Siam in a
very Czech courtyard. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (120 - 200K). B
Vegetarian
Beas F-2, Praha 1, Tnsk 19, MStaromstsk, tel.
(+420) 608 03 57 27, www.beas-dhaba.cz. Original Indian
metal trays hold your chosen veggie menu - small or large curry
meal, noodles, parantha menu, the massive thali and more.
Desserts and lassi are also available and tables have jugs
of free water to quench the small fires the somewhat spicy
dishes produce. Excellent and deservedly popular. QOpen
11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. (70 - 130K). PGBS
Country Life E-3, Praha 1, Melantrichova 15, MMstek,
tel. (+420) 224 21 33 66, www.countrylife.cz. From humble
beginnings as a take-away bar, this place is packed at lunchtimes
with long queues at the cafteria-style counter. That's because
even non-vegetarians are impressed by the salads, pizza and
soups. QOpen 09:00 - 20:30, Fri 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:30.
Closed Sat. Also at H-4, Jungmannova 1. (75 - 150K). GPTU
Maitrea E-2, Praha 1, Tnsk 6, MStaromstsk, tel.
(+420) 221 71 16 31, info@maitrea-restaurant.cz, www.
maitrea-restaurant.cz. Maitrea is the sister vegetarian restau-
rant to the widely popular Lehka Hlava. Located in Old Town, they
currently have a rather small menu, but an excellent lunch special
consisting of a rotating soup, main and water for 105 K. Their
dcor is a bit tamer than their wilder sister, but the same fresh
quality and inventiveness is here. The couscous with broccoli
and fennel is fabulous, as is the baked vegetables with pesto.
QOpen 11:30 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. 100-140 K.
Veg Food Praha 2, Londnsk 35, MIP Pavlova, tel.
(+420) 222 51 50 06/(+420) 721 25 52 53, info@
vegfood.cz, www.vegfood.cz. A new and welcome non-
meat addition to the pork-heavy dining scene. Veg Food is
fairl y Asian, with many soy and tofu meat al ternatives. The
flavors are mild, but you will taste them; vegetables are fresh
and the staff is welcoming. Seek it out, even carnivores will
be pleased. QOpen 10:30 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:30 - 21:30.
Grand hotel Praha is the only hotel offering a magical view
of a unique historical sight, The Old Town Astronomical
Clock, from its windows.
Grand hotel Praha presents high standards of comfort
and luxuriously furnished rooms.
Grand cafes cakes will warm your heart and make every
occasion special.
We want to do everything possible to make your visit to
Grand cafe Praha the best it can be.
Reception: +420 221 632 556 (557)
Hotline: +420 606 600 583
Fax: +420 221 632 558
e-mail: info@grandhotelpraha.cz
Telefon: +420 221 632 520 (522)
Fax: +420 221 632 521
e-mail: info@grandcafepraha.cz
www.grandhotelpraha.cz Accommodation opposite the Astronomical clock
GRAND hotel PRAHA
Staromstsk nmst 22
110 00 Praha 1
GRAND caf PRAHA
Staromstsk nmst 22
110 00 Praha 1
PRAHA
caf
GRAND
www.grandcafe.cz
hotel
GRAND
PRAHA
40
CAFS
41
CAFS
Au Gourmand E-2, Praha 1, Dlouh 10, MStaromstsk,
tel. (+420) 222 32 90 60. Small cafe with superior pastries,
savouries and tortes plus many more items to slimline your
wallet and expand your waistline, but, as Kenny Everett said, it
is done in the best possible taste. Despite Pragues growing
caf culture, baked items have always remained below par con-
sidering historical links and geographical proximity to Vienna and
Au Gourmand makes a lovely change. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00,
Sat 8:30 - 19:00, Sun 9:00 - 19:00. Also at Au Gourmand Rive
Gauche, C-2, Praha 1, U luickho semine 23, tel. 257 53 24 34.
Caf Caf E-4, Praha 1, Rytsk 10, MMstek, tel.
(+420) 224 21 05 97, www.cafe-cafe.cz. Slap bang in the
middle of tourist central, but far cooler than many cafs in the
area. Caf Caf is a well-known gay hangout, but it also attracts
hetero hipsters who look the look, talk the talk and wear the ware.
Coffee, cocktails, large salads and the Mediterranean menu
provide lubrication and sustenance. Breakfast served everyday
until 12:30. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (150 - 350K). AB
Caf Imperial I-3, Praha 1, Na Po 15, MNm. Republiky,
tel. (+420) 246 01 14 40. After a long facelift, the landmark
Imperial has reopened with the Art Nouveau tiles and wood
carvings still in situ within the high ceiling-ed rooms. The stale
donuts have sadly not reappeared but the beautiful and historic
space is well worth visiting for breakfast, a sandwich or meal (chef
Zdenk Pohlreich hails from the Radisson SAS Alcron and Marriott),
although reviews have been hit and miss. A decent cocktail list will
keep you here late. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (130 - 400K). PA
Caf Jungmann E-4, Jungmannovo nm. 7, Prague 1,
MMstek, tel. (+420) 222 22 01 61. A dark pub has been
transformed into this Ikea-styled caf well-located to attract
tired shoppers and tourists from Wenceslas Sq. Neutral tones
and MTV beats on the plasma screens join sandwiches, sal-
ads, crepes and a few steak/fish mains in their tasty menu.
Soups are delicious if tepid and the dail y special is excellent
value. New world wines attract the interest when .3 of Pilsner
Urquell is 50K. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (80 - 250K). AW
Caf Louvre D-4, Praha 1, Nrodn 22, MNrodn tda,
tel. (+420) 224 93 09 49, www.cafelouvre.cz. In true French
style, this historic caf is for anything but bourgeois tastes.
Caf Louvre is a true slice of Czech life where a great breakfast
is served that one can enjoy with an international newspaper.
Whether you want to play a game of pool in the swank billiard hall
or indulge in some fresh pastries over coffee, this is the perfect
place to have a great caf experience. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:30. (100 - 500K). PTAG
Caf Savoy G-5, Praha 5, Vtzn 5, MAndl, tel.
(+420) 257 31 15 62, www.ambi.cz. A fabulously restored
grand caf dating back to 1893 with a particularl y stunning
neo-Renaissance ceiling. Sit under the chandeliers to order
food from the caf menu with traditional Czech dishes or from
the more elaborate French gourmet menu. Dont skip the
pastries and cakes that are made on the premises though.
Great for a lazy breakfast with a newspaper too. QOpen
08:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:30. (140 - 300K). AP
Cigars and Coffee I-4, Praha 1, Vodkova 39, MMstek,
tel. (+420) 224 94 91 33, www.coffeeandcigars.cz.
Orange theme, white leather, Oko on TVs, cinematic images
of the eponymous objects (and others beginning with a C) line
this ubercool caf near Cinema Svtozor. The expanse of glass
leads to perfect people watching, but the media types inside
dont want to do the watching. Breakfast, cakes, baguettes,
salads, pasta and even steaks are small and tasty but slightly
overpriced (100 - 240K). But if you want cool, youve got to be
wiling to pay for it. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. W
Cof f ee Fel l ows E- 2, Pr aha 1, Dl ouh 20,
MStaromstsk, tel. (+420) 222 31 02 00, www.coffee-
fellows.cz. Famous for their pastries, tea, coffee and syrups.
Sandwiches, bagels, cookies etc. all vie for your attention but
try the caramel slice for a taste of heaven with some toffee
mixed in. Seating is high and low, the few armchairs have
their backs to the room and the banquette seating proves a
tad uncomfortable. There is little privacy too, but it is tasty.
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PABW
Cof f eeheaven E- 1, Pr aha 1, Pa sk 1,
coffeeheaven.cz. While Starbucks is snoozing in Seattle, a
cunning Polish franchise outfit has sneaked a large number
albei t somewhat faceless cafs into Prague. The coffee
comes in paper cups and ranges from 32K for an espresso
to 84Kc for the large white chocolate mocha. The sandwiches,
panini and cakes are tasty and reasonably priced, and theres
a 120K breakfast offer. QOpen 08:30 - 21:00. Also at E-4,
Praha 1, Na pkop 3, Palc Flra & I-4, pas Rokoko, Praha
1, Vclavsk nm., tel. 224 2 4 70 61. PAGS
Cukrkvalimonda B-2, Praha 1, Lzesk 7, tel.
(+420) 257 53 06 28. A small caf which adopts an evening
menu at 18:00 and produces delicious meals such as chicken
breast with prosciutto and mozzarella on balsamic vinegar
and fresh baby spinach to go with some superb (but spendy)
new world wines. Daytime offerings are just as tasty from
the breakfast menu to pancakes, sandwiches and home-
made pasta. As relaxed as the beautifull y tranquil square
it is located on. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.
(80 - 350K). PG
DISK Caf D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 26, MStaromstsk,
tel. (+420) 221 11 10 65. A superior caf on the Royal
Way belies its sleek design by actuall y being the caf for the
DISK Theatre, the place of study for the Czech Academy of
Performing Arts (DAMU). Join wannabe thesps, stage hands
and directors for well-priced (especially when you consider the
location) sandwiches, salads and calorie-laden but superb
desserts. A full bar is of course available too - Staropramen
is 40K. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (85 - 115K).
Ebel E-3, Praha 1, Tn 2, MNm. Republiky, tel. (+420)
224 89 57 88, www.ebelcoffee.cz. Some of the best cof-
fee in town, sandwiches and salads, plus excellent smoothies
and cheesecake to die for. Wooden warmth inside beckons
you in the winter months, and in the evenings youll be ser-
enaded by some good jazz from Ungel t in the basement.
Beware of wandering stag parties from Legends across
the square. Check out their shop almost next door. QOpen
09:00 - 22:00. (60 - 160K). Also at D-2, Karprov 11, open
08:00 - 19:00; D-3, etzov 9, open 08:00 - 20:00. TAB
Espressamente Illy I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 8 (Prague
Marriott Hotel), MNmst Republiky, tel. (+420) 222
881 258, www.marriottprague.com. Open for breakfast or
lunch; the new Espressamente Ill y promises authentic Italian
Espresso and cappuccino. Located in the Prague Marriott
Hotel, it has a street entrance on V Celnici. Offering 20 kinds
of Illy coffee for your morning meetings, plus pastries and light
snacks; its a quiet place in a busy neighbourhood.
Face Cafe F-2, Nmst Republiky 1, MNmst Repub-
liky. The place to show your face. Quite an upscale caf for a
mall, but with a coffee, wine and cocktail list as long as theirs,
its a worthwhile trip. Theyve taken the theme seriousl y; the
menu is framed and the walls are covered with head shots.
Sit inside along the window and stare at the faces shopping
below. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
Globe H-5, Praha 1, Ptrossova 6, MNrodn tda,
tel. (+420) 224 93 42 03, www.globebookstore.cz.
The Globe provides a sophisticated atmosphere to meet
other enlightened souls. Darker walls indicate an edgier
characterisation to this bastion of expat li fe whi ch had
become a tad stuffy in i ts middl e age. The good food,
books (new and second-hand) and internet caf remain
but now we also have Gambrinus on tap as well as li ve
music and events spicing things up. QOpen 9:30 - 01:00.
(40 - 120K). AUE
Grand Caf Praha E-3, Praha 1, Staromstsk nm.
22, MStaromstsk, tel. (+420) 221 63 25 22, www.
grandcafe.cz. The Grand Caf produces cakes, tortes and
other sweet delicacies for clock-watchers on Old Town Square
and for visi ting digni taries at the castle. QOpen 07:00 -
22:00. (95 - 490K). A
Grand Caf Orient F-3, Praha 1, Ovocn trh 19,
MNmst Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 22 42 40, www.
grandcafeorient.cz. The first floor of the Cubist House of the
Black Madonna is home to a truly unique Cubist-style caf that
was reconstructed from photographs to match the one that
was here from 1911 until the 1920s. Even caf-capital Vienna
doesnt have one of these. The simple menu lists pancakes,
sandwiches and some good coffee. Try to get a seat on the
balcony overlooking Celetn street. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. AP
Karln London J-3, Praha 8, Sokolovsk 32, MFlorenc.
This caf serves up excellent cakes, pancakes and ice cream
with cheblk being the onl y savoury offerings. The oddity
here is the London murals, the faux double-decker bus, plus
Winston Churchill and the Queen watching you sip your coffee,
while the bathroom entrance is through the red phone box.
Q (40 - 150K).
Kva Kva Kva G-6, Praha 5, Lidick 42, MAndl,
www.kava-coffee.cz. The future of the caf for Prague
wi th internet in the back (free 15 minutes wi th purchase),
Wi-Fi all over and superlati ve staff. Czech or Engli sh,
i t matters not for these al ways happy-to-ser ve girl s.
Smoothies and caf frapps along wi th cheap Czech Mex
standards make up the menu after the more usual cakes
and bagels. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Fri 07:00 - 24:00, Sat
09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. Also at (E-4), Nrodn
31. (40 - 250K). W
Kavrna Obecn Dm Nmst Republiky 5, MNmst
Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 00 27 63, kavarna.od@
vysehrad2000.cz, www.vysehrad2000.cz. Come for the
atmosphere as well as the treats. This Art Nouveau caf on
the ground floor of Obecn Dm is one of the most elegant
in town. Youll be treated to nice service amidst beautiful
surroundings, and we dare you to turn your head when they
start wheeling the cake cart around. A breakfast menu, plus
sandwiches and salads make this a good break point no
matter what time of day. QOpen 7:30 - 23:00. 90-470K.
JAEB
Kavrna Pavilon J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradsk 50,
MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 222 09 72 01, www.ambi.cz.
The Ambiente group are trying to make a go of the caf space
in Vinohradys beautiful though hardl y successful old market
space. Cafs and shops have come and gone, but Ambientes
excellent standards could be the winning combination. A wide
range of breakfast (e.g. soft boiled eggs in a cup), pastries and
small meals to accompany Wi-Fi and newspapers. QOpen
08:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. W
Ouky Douky Praha 7, Janovskho 14, MVltavsk, tel.
(+420) 266 71 15 31, www.oukydouky.cz. Holesovices
happiest corner is somewhat like an expat hangout minus
the expats its up to you to decide if thats a good or bad
thing. The cosy bar sells good coffee and simple meals, sells
books (mostly Czech), has internet at 90K/hr and occasion-
all y throws a party. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
Shakespeare & Sons Praha 10, Krymsk 12, tel.
(+420) 271 74 08 39, www.shakes.cz. Thousands of
handpicked new and used English titles, earnest poetry and
prose readings and performance, newspapers, chess and
backgammon, Bernard beer, some funky original art and
mosaics, plus coffee, tea and cakes. Tram N4, 22 or 23 to
the Krymsk stop. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Also at C-2, U
luickho semine 10. E
Slavia C-4, Praha 1, Nrodn tda 1, MNrodn tda, tel.
(+420) 224 21 84 93. Slavia is a throwback to days gone
by with a beautiful art deco interior and photos of celebrity
patrons. I ts location cant be beaten, wi th large windows
open to Nrodn Divadlo and the Vl tava. Service is fine, but
you can sit here for quite a while without purchasing much
from the very well-priced menu. Good coffee, tasty meals,
snacks and pastries are all available. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.
(45 - 320K). PAU
Yessi Caf I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 4, MNm. Republiky,
tel. (+420) 222 21 25 85, www.yessicafe.cz. From the
makers of Pravda, Hot and Bellevue comes a casual caf
for the masses. Purple and green dominate the upholstered
sofas and stools. Smoothies and juices are sadl y pre-made,
sandwiches too for the lunch rush but you can also build
your own. I talian water ups the price, but the veggie and
hummos sandwich (99K) is superb. Alcohol and Ill y coffee
also served. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 9:00 - 18:00, Sun
10:00 - 18:00. PBS
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CZECH SPAS CZECH SPAS
D
D
D
D
D D
L
Z
N
LIBV
E
R
D
A
Lzn Libverda
Bad Liebwerda
Liberec
esk Budjovice
PRAHA
LZN LIBVERDA, a.s. .p. 82
463 62 Hejnice
tel.: 482 368 100102
mobil: 731 957 326
objednavka@lazne-libverda.cz
www. l az ne- l i bver da. cz
CENTER OF SPAS, RELAXATION AND SPORT
Special oer 6900 CZK for 2 persons
8 day stay including half board and 4 procedures
We also oer:
Week and weekend stays
Hotel accommodation
Wellness centre: full packs in banana leaves,
honey and chocolate packs
Gift packages for your closest friends
Relaxing all over the country
Taking to the waters for healing and relaxation has a long
history in the Czech Republic. Springs of mineral and thermal
water can found in various parts of the country. Most famous
is the so-called spa triangle in west Bohemia; comprised of
the cities of Karlovy Vary, Frantikovy Lzn and Marinsk
Lzn. Located an easy train ride from Prague; the region
makes an excellent extension to your Prague visit.
Historically, Czech spas have more of a healing reputation
over a relaxing one. People with a variety of ailments would
spend a week or two at a spa and under the supervision
of a doctor, follow a speci fic regiment that included lots
of bathing and drinking of the local water. Di fferent spas
are known for specializi ng i n vari ous diseases; Lzn
Libverda in the Jizera Mountains for example is focused
on treating heart and blood circulation diseases. Czech
health insurance used to cover these stays; but not so much
anymore. Spas are revamping their programs a bit to add
wellness stays in the hopes of attracting people looking
for relaxation weekends. When researching a weekend at
a Czech spa, always look for their wellness offerings and
be sure to ask speci fic questions about what a particular
treatment entails.
From west to east youll find a pl ethora of interesting
treatments, historic buildings and fun towns. Many of the
larger spa towns have a variety of tourism offerings and,
as most are located near mountains, hiking and biking
in the summer and skiing in the winter are all distinct
possibilities.
Karlovy Vary is the most well-known and visited of all the
countrys spa towns. The city dates back to King Charles
IV time when, as the story goes, he and his entourage
accidently stumbled upon a thermal spring. He proclaimed
it had curative powers and, in true King Charles style, had
a town built around the spring. Fast forward a bunch of
years and you can easily see walking through town the
influence Art Nouveau had on 19th century architects.
The Mill Colonnade, Emperors Baths and the Thermal
Spring Colonnade were built then. At the beginning of the
20th century, Karlovy Vary was one of the most popular
spa cities in Europe. Two world wars and Communism
saw a decline in its fortunes, with the state regulating all
facilities and tourists primarily limited to Russians. Youll
still see a heavy Russian influence in the archi tecture
and language translations. Here, the spa treatments are
best for those with digestive, motor system or metabolic
disorders. Richmond Hotel is a stunning property located
on the outskirts of Karlovy Vary for a more peaceful stay.
Those looking for relaxation can stroll through the hotels
Engl i sh-styl e park, compl ete wi th a Japanese garden
for medi tation. The hotel offers a variety of relaxation
programmes, including anti-ageing treatments, beauty
weeks and relaxing days.
There are 20 springs in Frantikovy Lzn used for both
bathing and drinking. The mineral water is alkaline and
sal ty; and can have a strong laxati ve ef fect. Di f ferent
springs produce di fferent resul ts; Church Spring water
is known to help mild digestive problems while the water
from Ferrous Spring is rich in iron and good for exhaustion
and anaemia. The city has a good reputation; both Ludwig
van Beethoven and Johann Strauss stayed here. Active
types wi l l appreci ate the rel ati vel y new Aquaforum.
Designed in a Roman bath setting, there are four indoor
and three outdoor swimming pools, sauna, slides and
other attractions.
Marinsk Lzn is over fl owing wi th springs: 40 in the
ci ty and 60 more in the surrounding countrysi de. Each
spri ng i s qui te parti cul ar, however al l have very hi gh
carbon dioxi de l evels and most are also iron ri ch. The
most famous spri ng i s the Kov, streami ng out i n
the main col onnade bel ow Masarykova Street. I ts very
sal ty and may have a laxati ve ef fect. In the pavilion of
the courtyard of the Central Bath, youll see a spring of
a di f ferent sort. This is a so-call ed dry spring; basi call y
pockets of carbon dioxide. The gas is captured and used
in a vari ety of balneol ogy treatments. I f you want some
true cures in the area, stay at LS Royal Marinsk Lzn.
Here youll fi nd beauti ful buil di ngs i n a forested area,
still cl ose to the mai n col onnade. Ei ther the well ness
programme or the anti -stress programme shoul d have
you l eaving better than when you arri ved.
In the Krkonoe foothills youll find nestled the charming
town of Lzn Blohrad, famous for its hot curative peat.
Surrounded by the Baantnice nature park you are sure to
find peace and relaxation; not to mention some top-quality
cures at Anensk slatinn lzn.
Tepl i ce i n north Bohemi a i s the ol dest spa i n the Czech
Republ i c, and one of the ol dest i n Europe. Legend has
i t that the hot spri ngs here were acci dentl y di scovered
by a farmer back i n 762. Archaeol ogi cal fi nds though
date peopl e i n the regi on to about the 11th centur y.
The name i tsel f i s deri ved from the warm spri ngs;
tepl y means hot i n Czech. Natural mi neral water at
a temperature of 39 Cel si us i s the pri mar y heal i ng
treatment here; used for l ocomoti on, ner vous and
psychol ogi cal di sorders.
Services provided by the Information Centre of

Karlovy Vary
Information Centre of Karlovy Vary

Dan Zikes
44
45
CZECH SPAS CZECH SPAS
Parkhotel Ri chmond
K A R L O V Y V A R Y
e Comprehensive Spa Treatment e Beauty Week e Antistress Programme e Golf Week e.t.c.
e Festive lounge with a seating capacity of 200 seats e Lounges e Beauty parlour
e Caf with a summer terrace e Corrective dermatology e Swimming pool, sauna
Richmond, a.s., Slovensk 567/3, 360 01 Karlovy Vary, Czech Republic
Tel.: +420 353 177 505, Fax: +420 353 222 169, reservation@richmond.cz
www. richmond.cz
Aquaforum Frantikovy Lzn
Ulice 5. kvtna 19
351 01 Frantikovy Lzn
Tel: +420 354 206 500
info@aquaforum.info
www.aquaforum.info
Tourist info: www.frantiskovylazne.cz
Bertiny lzn Tebo
Tylova 1 379 15 Tebo
Tel: 384 754 111
Fax: 384 754 461
info@berta.cz
www.berta.cz
Lzn Bechyn
391 65 Bechyn . 202
Tel: 381 476 100
Fax: 381 213 734
info@laznebechyne.cz
www.laznebechyne.cz
Lzn Libverda
463 62 Hejnice
Tel: +420 482 368 111
Fax: +420 482 368 110
rezervace@lazne-libverda.cz
www.lazne-libverda.cz
Tourist info: www.laznelibverda.cz
Lzn Malvazinky Praha
Praha 5, U Malvazinky 5
Tel: +420 251 116 602
info.mediterra@malvazinky.cz
www.malvazinky.cz
LS Royal Marinsk Lzn
Lesn 345
353 01 Marinsk Lzn
Tel: + 420 354 625 446
Fax: + 420 354 622 346
info@royalmarienbad.cz
www.royalmarienbad.cz
Marinsk Lzn: www.marianskelazne.cz
Teplice: www.teplice.cz
Richmond Park Hotel
Slovensk 3
360 01 Karlovy Vary
Tel: +420 353 177 111
Fax: +420 353 222 169
reservation@richmond.cz
www.richmond.cz
Tourist info: http: www.karlovyvary.cz
In South Bohemia, youll find the lovely spa and fish town of
Tebo. Probably more famous for its carp ponds (a good
portion of the traditional Czech Christmas dinner of carp
comes from this region), Bertiny lzn is famous for its peat
baths. The locally gathered peat is excellent for injured
bones, muscles and joints. Located just outside the citys
main square, Bertiny is a lovely place to relax and rejuvenate.
Bechyn is located south of Prague along the Lunice River.
The city is ceramics central and charming while the spa is ultra
modern. Arthritis suffers and those with other joint or muscle
problems will appreciate the skilled and dedicated hands
working here. Weight loss and beauty stays can also be had.
Heading farther east and north, Lzn Libverda is perfectly
situated for those wanting to have active days and restful
nights. Lots of marked hiking and biking trails criss-cross
the region; and a soak in the therapeutic pool filled with
the local mineral water will soothe those aching muscles. A
mineral analysis of the water done in the late 1700s found
it to have such healing properties that is was bottled and
shipped to Prague under the brand name Chabeso. Unlike
most other medicinal drinks in the Czech Republic, this one
was non-alcoholic and flavoured with fruit juice.
Czech Spas
Anensk slatinn lzn
Spa 165
507 81 Lzn Blohrad
Tel: +420 493 767 111
Fax: +420 493 767 443
lazne@belohrad.cz
www.belohrad.cz
Bobak Ha'Eri, wikipedia.org
Dear readers,
Our future guests,
LET ME INTRODUCE you to a unique Water Park project:
We have succeeded in building an incredible Water World
which will captivate both you and your children with its wide
range of enchanting attractions. With water slides, water
chutes, a wave pool, a Jacuzzi, a diving tube, saunas, massage
parlours, a ftness centre, and more, there really is something her
e for everyone. You can have a good frolic in the Water World,
try up to 11 treatments in the Sauna World, get pampered at
the Spa or stretch your legs in the Fitness Centre. You will
be amazed by the choice we ofer. Aquapalace also houses
shops and restaurants. We are confdent that you will have
a great time with us and that youll come back again and
again. Aquapalace is an adventure for the entire family!
THE RESORTS DIVERSE NEIGHBORHOOD ofers the perfect
symbiosis of services and facilities available to our guests. Golf
enthusiasts will surely appreciate the proximity of Golf Resort
Konopiste. Prhonices castle and park is, on the other hand, an
ideal place for those who prefer pleasant walks.
Clients who prefer shopping to nature will appreciate the
nearby shopping area Prhonice-estlice.
Whatever your needs, interests or ideas, you have found
a place which is an ideal base for any of them. Indulge
yourself in real luxury
We are looking forward to seeing you!
Pavel Sehnal
SPG Financial Group CEO
www.aquapalace.cz
Aquapalace Praha, Prask street 138, Commercial Zone Prhonice - estlice, D1 take Exit 6
Information: tel.: +420 271 104 111, email: info@aquapalace.cz
Enjoy fun
in the biggest Aquapark
in the Czech Republic
B
rands nad Orlic
Rehabilitative Institute
boasts a 110-year-old
tradition of providing spa and
rehabilitative cures. Its located
in a small town in the eastern
part of the Czech Republic
near the Orlick Mountains.
Known all over the country; the Institute has 170 beds including some
luxurious barrier free rooms. Currently, rehabilitation services are
available for patients with organ diseases as well as back problems
and neurological issues. An individual care plan is designed for each
patient. The Rehabilitative Institute also offers reconditioning and
relaxation stays. For more information, please visit our website.
Rehabilitan stav
Brands nad Orlic
Lzesk 58
Brands nad Orlic
tel. 465 544 206-7
www.rehabilitacniustav.cz
Carlsbadweek
a week of travel flms and spa therapy
I
n just a month, Karlovy Vary will be
hosting another festival. From 7 to 11
October the 4th annual Carlsbadweek
will take place, sponsored by Minister
for Regional Development, Ing. Rostislav
Vondruka, including the oldest festival of
tourism-themed flms, TOURFILM.
Tis year, the Czech Centre for Tourism CzechTourism has prepared a
number of things a little bit diferently for you the citizens of Karlovy
Vary and surroundings. We have tried to get our activities to be closer to
you TOURFILM 2009 will take place for the most part in the Termal
Hotel and the talks with travellers and flms will be moved to the evening
so that those who work can make them too, Competitions for amateur
cameramen have also been prepared in conjunction with Czech Television.
Te festivals main star will be Ian Wright one of the best television
presenters travellers in the world, star of the British programme Globe
trekker (originally the programme was named Lonely Planet).
Compete with us in TOURFILM, you can win valuable prizes.
What do you have to do?
cut out the coupon which you can fnd in this edition of Radnin listy
come on 8 October to the Day with Czech Television in the Termal Hotel
watch the flms and accompanying programme
take part in the lot-drawing competition
A
nother part of Carlsbadweek is the Spa festival, where you will get
the chance to familiarise yourself with the ofers of spa companies
during a presentation in the Varyda shopping centre on 10 October 2009.
Te event is sure to attract many visitors because you can even win a stay
in a spa. All you need to do is fll in the draw ticket which you can fnd in
this edition of Radnin listy, drop it into the box in the Varyda shopping
centre and wait to see if youve won when the winning tickets are drawn
by the spa companies.
For gastronomy lovers, the grape harvesting festival at Loket castle on 10 11
October will include a gastronomy town with the specialities of our Bavarian
neighbours to complement the traditional grape harvesting festival.
If youre interested in cultural monuments and their fates, you will surely
be interested in the conference on the subject of the importance of the
cultural and natural heritage of spa towns in maintaining and providing
the sustainable growth of balneotherapy and the tourist industry. Tis will
bring advantage to spa towns afer entry onto the
UNESCO World Heritage List. Tis conference
will take place on 9 October in Karlovy Vary. You
must register in advance for this conference more
information available at www.kr-karlovarsky.cz.
All further information can be found at the project
website www.karlovarskytyden.cz, and if you dont fnd
your question answered here, contact us by email at
kvt@czechtourism.cz, or call 353 502 128.
What can you win?
Te frst prize is 10 000 CZK in cash
Te second prize is 5 000 CZK in cash
Te third prize is publicity materials from CCR Czech Tourism
53
CZECH SPAS
Spas out East
The beautiful vineyards of South Moravia can offer you more
than one form of relaxation. Not to be left out of the spa craze,
Lzn Hodonn was the first spa in the region. Water with a
high iodine content is their trademark and the spa offers lots
of cultural programming along with its therapies.
In Moravia you can find Luhaovice. This small spa town
surrounded by forest, is one of the foremost balneology spas in
the Czech Republic. Individual treatments, plus relaxation stays
are a complement to the spas primary treatment of respiratory
diseases. The spa is a beautiful combination of nature and
architecture; take your time here. While in Luhaovice, you wont
be at a loss for things to do in the area. The cities of Krom
and Zln will provide lots of entertainment.
Local cold springs will greet you in Jesenk, northern Moravia.
In 1820, Vincent Priessnitz, the spas founder, set-up a
program based on the effects of cold spring water. He
combined water treatments with climate-therapy and diet.
Respiratory and nervous system diseases are helped along
here and as you are so close to the Jesenky Mountains, youll
have lots of outdoor distractions in both summer and winter.
tramberk
A spa in the picturesque Moravian town of tramberk? Its
surprising, even for those who already know about the town. But
150 years ago, it was well-known. A magazine article from 1862
mentioned tramberks spa and what the locals called kpele
as a healthy milk spa with a special cure using sheeps whey.
tramberk is going back to this tradition with the opening of
Relax Spa in Beskydy. Also opening is the opportunity to soak
Spa hotel VILA VALAKA in Luhaovice
Individual approach and above standard services
The cultural heritage Vila Valaka is a work of Duan Jurkovi, a distinguished Slovak
architect. The Villa was built in the folk-secession style in 1907 and belongs to the most
signicant buildings in Luhaovice. In June 2009, this spa hotel Vila Valaka re-opened
after a complete and intensive reconstruction.
The Vila Valaka has 9 luxury suites, a restaurant and a wellness oasis. Villa oers individual approach and above-standard
services for the most demanding spa guests. Features of Jurkovis architecture can be seen at each step. The modern white
furniture contrasts beautifully with the bright blue windows or red walls.You will certainly relax and draw fresh energy in
the intimate wellness centre. You can enjoy various baths, relaxation massages as well as exceptional light therapy or music
therapy. Nursing and medical sta are available in the neighbouring Vila Antoaneta, where an aqua relaxation centre with a
whirlpool, sauna and steam bath is situated.In the restaurant, the chef will prepare your meal la carte or exactly according
to your taste. The oer includes a variety of diets and you have a possibility to consult the nutritional therapist. Floor service
will be provided by your request and in summer, you can enjoy your breakfast on the terrace.
This Villa belongs to the portfolio of ROYAL SPA
- the private chain of spa and wellness hotels in
the Czech Republic with more than 10 years of
tradition in this eld. At present they have 5 spa
complexes and 1 wellness hotel in four major cities
of the Czech Republic - Luhaovice, Marinsk
Lazn, Velk Losiny and Ostrosk Nova Ves. The
total capacity is now nearly 1,000 beds.
Tel. +420 577 659 111/107
www.royalspa.cz
www.miramare-luhacovice.cz
in beer at Laskch on tramberk
Square. Unfortunately, no sheeps
whey cure will be availabl e as
thi s procedure i s bei ng kept
secret. Instead, there will be salt
caves, beer soaks, massages and
tanning beds. Relaxation and a
curative effect is guaranteed thanks to the mystical interior
where the procedures are done. The touch of castle walls,
underground passages and gorgeous views to the valley
below will seem like a small celebration to every visitor.
Lzn Hodonn
Mansk 140
695 04 Hodonn
Tel: +420 518 395 511
info@laznehodonin.cz
www.laznehodonin.cz
Lzn Luhaovice
Lzesk nmst 436
763 26 Luhaovice
Tel: 577 682 111
Fax: 577 132 526
info@lazneluhacovice.cz
www.lazneluhacovice.cz
Priessnitzovy lebn lzn
Priessnitzova 12/299
790 03 Jesenk
Tel: 584 491 111
Fax: 584 411 412
rezervace@priessnitz.cz
www.priessnitz.cz
www.spalife.info
9. 10. Area of Hotel Thermal
OPEN AIR BARS, STAGES,
FIREWORKS
10. 10. OC Varyda (10 a.m. 5 p.m.)
PRESENTATIONS OF CZECH
SPAS FOR THE PUBLIC
Price draw win weekend spa stays t
Tasting of spa wafers and spa liqueurs t
FOR FREE
10. 11. 10. Loket
VINTAGE & GASTRONOMY CITY
LOKET
Including t GOURMET VILLAGE come
to taste the specialities of our Bavarian
neighbours
The Spa Festival focuses on promoting Czech Spa Destinations through word
of mouth and press excursions followed by a workshop. Travel agencies and
journalists from markets that are a major source of visitors and from markets
with major potential as sources of visitors to Czech spa destinations are invited
to Karlovy Vary every year. The participants from abroad have the opportunity to
try out spa procedures while visiting, and they also are given a chance as part
of the workshop to become more familiar with the offers of companies from spa
destinations in the Czech Republic, for which participation in this event is free
of charge thanks to support from the Czech Tourism Board CzechTourism.
CZECH SPA FESTIVAL
KARLOVY VARY |
54
NIGHTLIFE
setting with cool tunes and Bond on TV. Salmon and club
sandwiches, caviar and chocolate fondue are on the small
but inspired menu. QOpen 14:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00,
Sun 18:00 - 03:00. (105 - 295K). PA
Barock H-3, Praha 1, Pask 24, MStaromstsk,
tel. (+420) 222 32 92 21. Not a rock bar at all. Swing
with the smart set in this flash and polished bar/restaurant
with huge windows and chandeliers - all the better to see
the beautiful models sipping and sashaying. The aprons will
come buzzing around you to offer expertl y crafted drinks,
succulent sushi, and a reassuringl y expensive bill. QOpen
10:00 - 01:00. PAU
Blatouch E-2, Praha 1, Vzesk 4, MNm. Repub-
liky, tel. (+420) 222 32 86 43. The soothing interior is
flanked by stunning old bookcases. Seems like a sui table
place to get quietl y smashed on absinth whilst pretending
to be intellectual, or to have a cheap and heal thy lunch-time
snack. The best thing about this place is the diminuti ve,
shel tered garden at the back, perfect for spring days.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 13:00 - 02:00,
Sun 13:00 - 24:00. U
Blind Eye K-4, Praha 3, Vlkova 26, MJiho z Podbrad,
www.blindeye.cz. You can't keep a Blind Eye down hav-
ing been forced into speakeasy mode following a visit from
the cops, Blind Eye is back on legal street so doors and
windows will be open again to welcome the mixed crowd into
its cellar interior. Friendl y folk on both sides of the bar keep
the vibe going late with help from well mixed drinks (try their
signature McFl y) and cool tunes. Video rental too. QOpen
19:00 - 04:00. 6E
Blue Light Bar B-2, Praha 1, Ostrovn 32, MMalos-
transk, tel. (+420) 224 93 22 49, www.bluelightbar.
cz. This tiny bar is al ways busy, and even if you get a table,
this doesn't mean you'll keep it to yourself. An older crowd
jostles, jokes and jives late into the night in this supposed
jazz club. It seldom has live music, but it does play chill tunes,
from Barry White to Prince to jazz standards. Strangely, this is
a beer drinking country after all, they onl y serve small beers
and at 30K, they ain't cheap al though well mixed cocktails
provide a smooth al ternative. It's a cool hot spot with very
interesting interior design. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00.
Bombay Cocktail Bar E-2, Praha 1, Dlouh 13,
MStaromstsk, tel. (+420) 721 882 557, www.rasoi.
cz. One of the city's best late night hot spots, Bombay seldom
disappoints with a wide range of cocktails, DJs who actuall y
play what the crowd wants to hear and a diverse clientele
in the right frame of mind to have fun. Enough said. QOpen
12:00 - 04:00. PAB
Casa Havana H-5, Praha 1, Opatovick 28, MNrodn
tda, tel. (+420) 602 32 10 07, www.casahavana.cz.
Cool and stylish, this classic Cuban bar is sure to become a
classic Prague hangout. Dark wood, low lights, smooth Cuban
tunesoh and nearl y 100 different kind of rum; a cocktail
list the length of an island plus tasting menus for a variety of
spirits. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PAEBW
Chapeau Rouge F-3, Praha 1, Jakubsk 2, MNm.
Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 31 63 28, www.chapeau-
rouge.cz. A local legend. This large, dark red bar continues
to be the place to head for to indulge a mul titude of vices. A
deeper and darker cellar room kicks in later in the evening as
a DJ and dance venue, thus giving dedicated nocturnalists
another central venue to frequent. Earl y on it provides a quiet
al ternative for a bit of chilling. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. AE
Prague's bar and club scene is as appropriately raucaus
as its infamy suggests. Prices and clientele veer widely
from the tourist-filled Old Town haunts to the sometimes
slightly seedy neighbourhood bars. You will find that beer
is drunk morning, noon and night, and that Czech beers
are among the best and cheapest in the world. Brands to
look out for include Pilsner Urquell, Gambrinus, Staropra-
men and Budweiser (Budvar). The average wage for bar
staff is 50K an hour, so please, after having your drinks
and your fun, show some appreciation with a decent tip.
Bars
Adagio K-5, Praha 2, Polsk 7, MJiho z Podbrad, tel.
(+420) 737 52 50 81. Three worlds in one for this sleek
restaurant, caf and bar in what was James Bond Caf: in-
ternational, sushi and, the back room has been transformed
into an Arab caf with sheesha (200K) and backgammon.
The Europe and the New World wine list is well selected and
well presented by the friendl y and efficient staff. Cocktails
and Czech beer round out this worldl y spot and DJs keep
global citizens around. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 -
24:00. PAK
Aloha Wave Lounge E-1, Praha 1, Dun 11,
alohapraha.cz. Wear a flower in your hair and head down-
stairs to Aloha's cocktail lounge, featuring a long bar, Pacific
cocktails at nice prices (try the Chi-Chi, with vodka, pineapple
and coconut), and a dance floor to hula to nightl y R&B and
rock music. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 18:00 -
02:00. PAE
Back Doors Praha 5, Na Blidle 30/310, MAndl, tel.
(+420) 257 31 58 24, www.backdoors.cz. This space
is part restaurant, part bar and part club in the cellar of an
old Smchov house. Massive wooden furniture and forged
iron work complement the brick walls and parquet floor of its
historical setting. Good for their lunch specials and fabulous
for the night time change to music bar with high quality audio
system, where you can hear various styles of music from
famous Czech DJs. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 04:00,
Sat 18:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. AE
Bambus F-2, Praha 1, Benediktsk 12, MNm. Re-
publiky, tel. (+420) 224 82 81 10. Finding a seat in this
warm and bustling, bamboo-laden bar can be a demanding
task but a fine array of cocktails and Pilsner Urquell on tap
will help you to relax afterwards. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Sat
11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. A
Bar and Books F-2, Praha 1, Tnsk 19, MNm. Re-
publiky, tel. (+420) 224 80 82 50, www.barandbooks.
net. Deep red walls and ceilings, soft leather benches, dark
wood finishing, books filling one complete wall and impec-
cable service typify Bar & Books. Cocktails (140K) vie with
an astounding array of whiskey, wine and cigars in this classy
Bugsys E-2, Praha 1, Pask
10, MStaromstsk, tel. 224
81 02 87, www.bugsysbar.cz.
Bugsys has been around for a fair
while now, but i t has managed to
keep the it that means it is a place to go if you wanted
everyone who has it to think that you have it too. A
trendy and hip crowd guaranteed then, as is a menu
featuring plenty of decent cocktails. QOpen 19:00 -
02:00. PAE
56
NIGHTLIFE
57
NIGHTLIFE
Hapu Praha 3, Orlick 8, MFlra, tel. (+420) 222 72
01 58. The owner/barman creates magni fi cent drinks
wi th studious care, there's no tossing of shakers here,
just mountains of fresh frui t and shots that would floor an
elephant. Get here earl y i f you want a seat or stand until
you hi t the deck because this place is tiny, has sounds
the chill y end of cool and is therefore constantl y packed.
QOpen 18:00 - 02:00.
Harlequin J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradsk 25, MMuzeum,
tel. (+420) 224 21 72 40, www.harlequin.zde.cz. This
combo would probably never happen anywhere else, but when
you feel like having a few beers then shoot some arrows, we
have found the place for you. With pool hall and new roulette
wheel upstairs and laser gol f, laser karaoke and archery
down in the black walled cellar, Harlequin will keep the most
dysfunctional group happy. Archery tuition on various bows
for a lot of fun from 19:00 - 24:00 is 200K per bow per hour.
Golf 400K. Well priced but bottled onl y beer downstairs,
Kruovice upstairs for 24K. An intriguing gem of a place.
QOpen 14:00 - 04:00. K
Harley's E-2, Praha 1, Dlouh 18, tel. (+420) 227 19 51
95, www.harleys.cz. Interesting mix of bikers, locals and
tourists, this long, long bar has emerged on the scene not
just because of their large US style food, well mixed drinks or
Wild Cats (shot shifting girls) but due to the presence of two
of Dusk till Dawn's barmen. Check it out. Shots around 60K
and Jack 80K. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00. (120 - 350K). A
There are lots of places in which you can lose your
shirt - just make sure its a smart shirt or you wont
even get in in the first place! All of these places will
gladly receive your cash in Czech crowns or US dollars
and give you free booze with which to drown your
sorrows. Youll need to be over 18, well-dressed and in
possession of ID to play.
Banco Casino F-3, Praha 1, Na Pkop 27, MNm.
Republiky, tel. (+420) 221 96 73 80, www.banco-
casino.cz. One of Pragues favourite casinos, set in a
central location difficul t to beat. All your favourite games
are available, there are state of the art slot machines,
a private salon and a general atmosphere of unadul ter-
ated luxury that entices even James Bond: it was used
in Casino Royale... Q Open 24 hours. A
Casino de Prague Le Hilton J-2, Praha 8, Poben
1 (Hotel Hilton), MFlorenc, tel. (+420) 224 81 09
88. One of the favoured casinos for Prague expats, the
Hilton provides roulette, poker, blackjack, pontoon, Punto
Banco, and slots with the worldwide standards of the
Hil ton chain. QOpen 14:00 - 06:00. A
Casino President E-1, Praha 1, Nm. Curieovch
100 (President Hotel), MStaromtsk, tel. (+420)
234 61 41 13, www.casinopresident.cz. Roulette,
black jack, poker, pontoon and slots available at this
luxurious new casino. Minimum bets are 100K for
blackjack, et al. and 25K on roulette. Free soft drinks
while you gamble. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. A
Century Casino Millennium I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici
10, MNm. Republiky, tel. (+420) 221 03 34 01,
www.cnty.com. Catering to the likes of the Marriott
Hotel, the Century Casino in the Millennium Plaza boasts
excellent croupiers who will help out beginners and take
anyones money. The usual roulette, poker and blackjack
are available. QOpen 15:00 - 04:00. AL
Spearmint Casino D-1, Praha 1, U Plovrny 8,
tel. (+420) 257 535 755, www.spearmintcasino.
cz. Come to the onl y English-style casino in Prague.
Spearmint has the highest limits available in the city. Try
your luck at roulette, pontoon, blackjack and poker or
play in the private gaming room. If mechanics are more
your thing, head for the new slot machines upstairs. Free
transport to the casino is also available. Admission is free.
QOpen 19:00 - 04:00. A
Casinos
Ambassador Casino E-4, Vclavsk nm. 5,
MMstek, tel. +420 724 747 401, www.vipclub.
cz. Poker, roulette, blackjack, pontoon and slots at-
tract a sophisticated crowd with the casinos excellent,
knowledgeable staff, and appropriate atmosphere. Q
Open 24hrs. AK
Casino Panorama Praha 4, Milevsk 7, MPankrc,
tel. +420 724 747 403, www.vipclub.cz. The Corin-
thia Panorama Hotel hosts another winning casino from
the VIP group. The usual games and slot machines are
on offer, with drinks and refreshments. QOpen 20:00 -
04:00. AL
See advertisement on p. 56.
CASINO AMBASSADOR
HOTEL AMBASSADOR, VCLAVSK NM. 5, PRAHA 1, OPEN NONSTOP
www.vipclub.cz
CASINO PANORAMA
PANORAMA HOTEL PRAGUE, MILEVSK 7, PRAHA 4, OPEN 20:00 - 04:00
Cloud 9 J2, Praha 8, Poben 1, MFlorenc, tel. (+420)
224 84 29 99, info@cloud9.cz, www.cloud9.cz. Nine
floors up, Prague's first sky bar offers stunning views, a cool
interior, smooth sounds and amazing cocktails. A master
bartender mixes up old favorites plus a line of signature Cloud
9-onl y concoctions. A small grazing menu offers an eclectic
line-up of tastes and weekend DJ's keep the vibe going. Atop
the Hilton Hotel. Highly recommended. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00.
Closed Sun. JAE
Coyotes E-3, Praha 1, Mal nm. 2, MStaromstsk,
tel. (+420) 224 21 60 00, www.coyotes.cz. Lots of
beauties floating around here; both behind and in front
of the bar. Nightl y DJ's spin the best from the 70's, 80's
& 90's. Cocktails and food complete the night. QOpen
11:00 - 03:00. PA
DC1 I-4, Praha 1, Vclavsk nm. 1, MMstek, tel.
(+420) 224 24 75 15, info@dc1.cz, www.dc1.cz. Image
is important, based on the hip crowd you see lounging at DC1.
The interior is designed to match their carefull y maintained
looks. DJ's and dancing are the norm here; plus good-looking
people. The restaurant is basic; pastas, meat dishes and
cocktails. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00. Restaurant: 09:00-24:00.
Club: 21:00-03:00. (150 - 380K). PB
Gecko H-5, Praha 1, Mikulandsk 2, MNrodn tda,
tel. (+420) 776 11 72 93. Gecko could be mistaken for a
chameleon as it appears to be a fine place for a quiet drink
then suddenl y you're having a crazy time in what was the
smallest bar in Prague. A ki tchen (good, cheap eats) and
small music club downstairs plus more tables have almost
quadrupled the bar space. The fun factor has not been diluted.
QOpen 11:00 - 03:00.
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Grand Hotel, Beneova 18-20, Brno
B. Smetany 1, Plze
Nmst Svobody 5, Brno
Doln Folmava 9 Furth im Wald
Grandhotel Pupp, Karlovy Vary
58
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NIGHTLIFE
Hospoda Lucerna I-4, Praha 1, Vodkova 39, tel. (+420)
221 14 63 37, www.hospodalucerna.cz. A long, loud bar
with the rock feel of the music hall opposite and serves up
decent and cheap meals in the belly of the city. A 30 person
private dining room is available or join the throng in the carved
totem pole littered room with alcove tables and various people
eating, drinking and being merry. This hospoda often hosts
bands' post-gig nights. During the day, enjoy the atmosphere
- it's been here since 1908. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. KW
Irish Club Prague H-1, Praha 7, Keramick 4, tel.
(+420) 233 37 11 28, www.irishclubprague.com. An Irish
bar in the heart of Letn rather than Old Town allows for friend-
lier prices and local attendance. Live (Irish & Czech country,
blues and more) music (there is also a piano for punters), quiz
nights, foosball and warm wooden interior. Gambrinus 20K.
Accommodation available upstairs. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
Jet Set Praha 5, Radlick 1c, MAndl, tel. (+420) 257
32 72 51. The central square bar is low enough for all drinkers
to scan the crowd and check out who's who this evening, the
split levels ensure dancers with confidence will be centre stage,
and the DJs make sure everyone has to get close together
for any conversation. It's sleek, chic and designed to empty
NYC wannabes' pockets with style. The great menu has a
Mediterranean influence. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. PAGB
Kozika E-2, Praha 1, Koz 1, MStaromstsk, tel.
(+420) 224 81 83 08, www.kozicka.cz. Tagged out front
by the sculpture of an iron goat, Kozika is entered via heavy
red curtains, down the stairs and into the labyrinthine set of
rooms. Good food adds to the late night party vibe and this
is one of the kitchens that'll feed us late into the Prague night
- till 01:45 in fact. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00,
Sun 18:00 - 03:00. PAI
La Belle Epoque D-3, Praha 1, Kiovnick 8,
MStaromstsk, tel. (+420) 222 32 19 26. The place
is decked out with aesthetic treasures such as American
highway signs, Japanese car dealership merchandising and,
ever since some minor film star went there once, an attitude
to make Joan Collins seem down-to-earth. QOpen 12:00 -
02:00. PAI
La Casa Bl E-1, Praha 1, Koz 15, MStaromstsk, tel.
(+420) 224 81 82 70, www.lacasablu.cz. A package deal
of generic South Americana sold as the real deal. A pleasing
and soothing spirit pervades the darkened corners, which are
perfect, when a little recuperation is needed, for sprawling in
but at the same time you can perch at the bar and find yourself
in the midst of a mini Mardi Gras. Ay caramba the food is great
too. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. 6EKW
Le Tram H-1, Praha 7, meralova 12, tel. (+420) 233
370 359. The French owner of this red-lit funky bar has bits
of trams all over the place - from the plastic chairs to the hand
railings. Better yet are the cheap beers and cocktails that
the wizards behind the bar conjure up, and the great French
multi-culti music which is DJed or played live in the rear corner.
QOpen 20:00 - 06:00.
Lokalblok Praha 5, nm. 14. jna 10, MAndl, tel.
(+420) 777 24 24 76, www.lokalblok.cz. A climbing bar
in Andl, with air conditioned walls, claiming to be the third
largest in Europe. Wi th good overhangs and some tough
lines, the wall will create a thirst that is easil y and cheapl y
quenched in the popular bar upstairs, where the prime sport is
vertical flirting. A weird foosball table downstairs too. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. Climbing wall open 09:00 - 22:00; Sat & Sun
12:00 - 22:00. 60K per day. PB
jezd A-4, Praha 1, jezd 18, MNrodn tda, tel. (+420)
257 31 65 37, www.klubujezd.cz. Yes, the ambience is
young, shabby and hedonistic, but jezd's three floors and
especially the bizarre wrought iron sculptures are a tonic to eyes
and ears. Friendly staff and hot (most of them smoking) people
throng here any night for live music and/or DJs. The cellar is
punk, and upstairs is a more eclectic chill zone. Don't bring your
posh frock, do bring some energy. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00. E
Be kara OK! I-5, Praha 2, Legerova 78, MMuzeum.
One of Prague's busiest roads leads to the city's first trul y
Japanese karaoke experience. Forget embarrassing yourself
in front of a bar full of people, this place sports five rooms for
6 to 15 exhibitionists to wield the microphone in private, hi-tec
glory. Full bar, sushi bistro and full complement of Japanese
delicacies invite a Lost in Translation experience. Q Open
18:00 - 02:00; Fri & Sat 18:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. Prices
begin at about 100K pp/hr. PAGK
Celnice I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 4, MNm. Republiky, tel.
(+420) 224 21 22 40, www.celnice.com. Young Czech la-
dies dressed in the day's fashions, usually nearly see-through
knee-length white pants and heels, ponder the differences
between expats in plaid shirts and tattooed bartenders who
look like they just stepped out of a fashion magazine. Dance
chart toppers get a lot of airplay here. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00,
Mon, Tue, Sun 11:00 - 02:00. PAGB
Cross Club Praha 7, Plynrn 23, tel. (+420) 736 53
50 53, www.crossclub.cz. One of Prague's underground
legends has emerged into legal luminescence as the cool kid
on the block. The labyrinthine den has, despite its slightly out
of the way location, become a firm favourite. Jungle, drum
n base, house and chill out have their own rooms and the
music, whether DJ or live, has to compete with some of the
funkiest, most inventi ve and ever-changing dcor around.
QOpen 14:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 05:00. 6EBK
Duplex I-4, Praha 1, Vclavsk nm. 21, MMstek,
tel. (+420) 732 22 11 11, info@duplex.cz, www.duplex.
cz. A massive designer space fed by a couple of lifts from
street level, this is where Mick Jagger decided to spend his
birthday, which has probabl y made the place even more full
of itself. Theme nights range from Dirty Dancing parties on
Fridays to local and international DJ's on Saturdays. QOpen,
Wed, Thu, Fri 22:00 - 05:00, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Sun. ABK
during the cooler months, and despite the listed closing time,
Sudika keeps the mellow vibe well into the night. Czech bar
snacks, magazines and no music typify the place, while the
0.4L beers ensure it isn't a haven for drunks. QOpen 10:33
- 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:33 - 23:00. I
Swank E-3, Praha 1, Havelsk 499/27, MMstek,
tel. (+420) 777 32 99 17, www.swankbar.cz. Cool and
minimalist or plastic and pretentious, Swank can be both,
but there's no denying they serve a good cocktail. Tucked
away from the madding crowd, Swank offers a no smoking
area, happy hour (50% from 15:00) and events and parties
in addition drawing a thirsty bunch of drinkers most nights.
QOpen 14:00 - 24:00. AG
Tr e t t e r s E - 2, Pr a h a 1, V Ko l ko v n 3,
tretters.cz. The bar cer tainl y seems sure of i ts l eading
rol e here, swall owing up so much of the space that i t
l eaves li ttl e room for customers. And ri ghtl y so. Com-
mi t ted barmen can rat tl e up some seri ousl y decent
cocktai l s and they ser ve the best Bl oody Mar ys i n
town. Wear a sui t or the staff will probabl y sneer at you.
QOpen 19:00 - 03:00. PA
Ultramarin H-4, Praha 1, Ostrovn 32, MNrodn tda,
tel. (+420) 224 93 22 49, www.ultramarin.cz. Deep in
an old cellar, Ul tramarin has pricey but decentl y made drinks
and a few bugs to iron out service-wise. They've browsed
through the chic end of the renovation brochure producing a
feel that is definitel y style over substance. QOpen 11:00 -
04:00. PAE
Wakata I-1, Praha 7, Malsk 14, MVltavsk, tel.
(+420) 233 37 05 18, www.wakata.cz. You'll have plenty
of time to admire the owner's welding work, in the form of
outlandish bar stools, whilst waiting for staff to relocate your
order in the scrambled minds which they nonchalantly nod to a
great soundtrack of hip-hop and other assortments. QOpen
17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. E
Zapa Bar Dun 6, MStaromstsk, tel. (+420) 222 31
58 99, www.zapabar.cz. If you're looking for a quiet place to
chat and have a cocktail, Zapa is for you. Prices are decent for
the centre of town, the staff is pleasant and you can usuall y
get a seat and relax. QOpen 18:00 - 2:00.
Clubs
Abaton Praha 8, Na Koince 8 / Povltavsk 2175,
MPalmovka, tel. (+420) 602 32 44 34, www.prostora-
baton.cz. Very cool club a tad out of town but with one of
the best programs in the city, be it drum n bass DJs or live
music to the tune of Chumbawamba, Natacha Atlas, The
Dresden Dolls or Free Monday local heroes such as Dirty
Airlines. Beer hall downstairs with video feed from the stage
upstairs. Open for gigs onl y and closing time depends on the
band/after party. Tram 10, 24, 25 to stanice Stejskalova
QOpen 19:00 - 03:00. E
Akropolis K-4, Praha 3, Kubelkova 27, MJiho z
Podbrad, tel. (+420) 296 33 09 11, www.palacak-
ropolis.cz. Akropolis goes a long way to saving the world
on those humdrum nights in the winter. A sprawling den of
scruffy delights wi th great and often unusual li ve music and
DJs. There are two bars, an adjoining caf, plus the excel-
lent gig space offering some of the most intriguing music in
Prague on offer. Gigs have to finish at 22:00 so start times
here are punctual. QOpen 16:00 - 04:00. Admission 30 -
400K. EKW
Mad Bar Plask 5, MMalostransk, tel. (+420) 775
12 22 56/(+420) 257 21 98 55, madbar@madbar.cz,
www.madbar.cz. Fun, clean joint that doesn't reall y life up
to its mad moniker. All the more reason to go - they have
a small, but varied menu and the prices are reasonable for
the area. Plus a happy hour from 16:00-19:00 means 25%
of food and drink. Go mad. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun
15:00 - 21:00.
Molotow Cocktail Bar H-5, Praha 2, Karlovo nm.
31, MKarlovo nm., tel. (+420) 222 23 33 34, www.
molotow.cz. Requisi te black marble, zoot sui t sil ver trap-
pings in the bathroom and pretty folk on mobiles sipping
at the bar. However, Molotow transcends the clich and
provides a wi cked al though somewhat expensi ve night
out. Moji tos et al. are 125K, but, as ever, si t at the bar,
make friends wi th the talented staff and see i f they'll gi ve
you a Dragon's Breath, which even i f you pay for i t, is worth
the spectacle. And the hangover QOpen 18:00 - 04:00.
Closed Sun. PA
Papas D-4, Praha 1, Betlmsk nm. 8, MNrodn
tda, tel. (+420) 222 22 22 29, www.papasbar.cz.
It's all louche and lazy at Papas. Red walls, yellow leather
banquettes and smoky glass gi ve an upmarket feel. The
Mediterranean menu is the usual, yet tasty, mix of salads,
pasta and fish. Why does everyone insist on scrawling
cocktail specials in neon pen across perfect people-watching
windows? QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. A
Pekelnej Bar Praha 5, Na Blidle 38, MAndl, tel.
(+420) 257 32 24 10, www.pekelnejbar.cz. Andl might
mean angel in Czech, but this part of town is acquiring a devil-
ish reputation. Pekelnej, meaning Hellish, is heavy on chains,
red drapery and attitude. DJs spin nightl y al though the lack
of dance floor means you have to jostle with one another.
Excellent Bloody Mary for just 80K and Czech wine from
160K a bottle. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00.
Repete F-2, Praha 1, Rybn 17, MNm. Republiky, tel.
(+420) 224 81 40 62. A long, many-roomed bar tucked
behind Kotva and appealing to the Old Town crowd looking
for a cheaper, calmer place to sup some drinks. Friendl y staff
and happy drinkers provide a decadent atmosphere later,
while wine-sipping shoppers fill the tables during the day.
Pilsner 35K. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00, Fri 15:00 - 02:00, Sat
17:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:30.
Ridgeback H-5, Praha 1, Karlovo nm. 288/17, MKar-
lovo nm., tel. (+420) 721 44 88 76. Religious iconography
abounds with hand painted murals in this world and rhythm
live and DJ music venue and bar. Confusing for those who
know the (itn) Ridgeback of late, this is actaully a completely
new venue, al though some similar faces make appearances
in this two-room spot, and the vibe is dictated by the music
and the crowd it attracts. Q Open 14:00 - 02:00. Fri & Sat
17:00 - 05:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. E
St. Nicholas Caf A-2, Praha 1, Trit 10, MMalos-
transk. Purportedl y a wine bar, St. Nick's has been attract-
ing drinkers of all vogues for years and his allure hasn't waned.
Dedicated drinkers keep the vibe going late and jazzy live
music adds to the cellar ambience. Snacks available. QOpen
12:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 01:00.
Sudika K-6, Praha 3, Nitransk 7, MJiho z Podbrad,
tel. (+420) 222 52 06 72, www.sudicka.cz. The muted
wooden floors and furni ture in this cellar space provide a
perfect venue for low down, chill out conversation to the
accompaniment of a few drinks. The fireplace entices all
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Futurum G-6, Praha 5, Zborovsk 7, MAndl, tel.
(+420) 257 32 85 71, www.musicbar.cz. Smchov is on its
way to glory, and the way is paved by Futurum's, er, futuristic
rooms. Its ul tra modern conversions with eccentric lighting
and exposed metal and brick is inventive. The place hosts
launch parties for Czech bands, the odd cul tural festival and
half-decent DJs. Fridays host their popular 80s & 90s night.
QOpen 20:00 - 03:00. Admission 100K. E
Karlovy Lzn C-3, Praha 1, Smetanovo nbre 198,
karlovylazne.cz. Set up as Prague's superclub, this place
has been rebuilt with panache, e.g. the transparent floor thus
enabling you to comfortabl y look up girls' skirts. Live bands,
chillout rooms and free internet access in the basement,
standard tunes one floor up, eclectica up one again, and
more hard core dance tracks in the loft. Q MCM Internet
Caf open 10:00 - 05:00. Club open 21:00 - 05:00. Admission
21:00-22:00 50K, after 22:00 120K.
Klub 007 Strahov Praha 6, Vankova 7, Koleje VUT
blok 7, tel. (+420) 257 21 14 39, www.klub007strahov.
cz. Skulking in the basement of a block of student accommo-
dation near Stadion Strahov, this hardcore/punk and hip-hop
club has been keeping study resul ts bad for years. QOpen
19:30 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 19:30 - 02:00. E
Klub Lvka C-3, Praha 1, Novotnho lvka 1,
MStaromstsk, tel. (+420) 222 22 21 56, www.lavka.
cz. Lvka occupies a beautiful corner right next to Charles Bridge,
with terraces looking across the water to the castle. This is about
as apt and tasteful as say... putting Elton John in charge of your
funeral arrangements and expecting an occassion of grace and
dignity. QOpen 21:30 - 05:00. PAUEK
La Fabrique E-4, Praha 1, Uheln trh 2, MMstek, tel.
(+420) 224 23 31 37, www.lafabrique.cz. A swish com-
plex of large underground rooms sets the scene for the La
Fabrique's definition of a music club. The hordes of uniformed
employees are friendl y and efficient. Downstairs, the dance
floor is packed with a mixture of expats and Czechs doing
the meat-market disco stomp to whatever weird mixture the
DJ (who couldn't gauge the atmosphere of a morgue) serves
up to them. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00. PA
Lucerna Music Bar I-4, Praha 1, Vodikova 36,
MMstek, tel. (+420) 224 21 71 08, www.musicbar.cz.
The more popular local bands and the smaller international
groups pl y their trade here fairl y regularl y. Every Saturday you
can find an un-hip, unpretentious crowd cavorting at their
disarmingl y popular 1980s night, which has led to the doors
being closed because of sheer numbers. QOpen 19:00 -
06:00. Admission 50 - 150K. PE
M1 E-2, Praha 1, Masn 1, MStaromstsk, tel. (+420)
221 87 42 56. Grey and industrial looking, this railroad
car of a bar is an ideal place to lounge around. Swamped
barmen deftl y pour drinks in front of the glow of illuminated
spirits on the wall. New owners have shifted the scene some
at Prague's M1, with nightl y themes from the increasingl y
popular Sunday chill out sessions to ladies' night and DJ Big
J's Smokin' Fridays. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. A
Mecca Praha 7, U Prhonu 3, MNdra Holeovice, tel.
(+420) 602 71 12 25, mecca@mecca.cz, www.mecca.
cz. Mecca has taken the proceeds from its status as the
recent clubbing star of Prague and done something very odd.
It has spent it on making the club even better. Now one can
hardl y shuffle from one foot to other without falling into the
lap of some super-model clubbing lass l ying back on one of
the huge white sofas. The DJ's they showcase are some of
the best town. QOpen, Wed, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun. Admission 150 - 200K. PAUE
Nebe H-5, Praha 1, Kemencova 10, MNrodn tda,
tel. (+420) 777 80 04 11. This slice of heaven produces
what its punters want every night and hence conjures up a
good vibe, happy drinkers and DJs who do have a clue about
creating and keeping the atmosphere. Bar keeps add to
the atmosphere which goes on late. QOpen 19:00 - 05:00.
Popocafepetl Music Club Praha 1, jezd 19, www.
popocafepetl.cz. The space is small but well utilised and
already drawing the crowds. Located by trendy Downtown
Caf, this block is a new hotspot. Their bookings are an in-
ternational bunch from homegrown talent to bands/members
from SCO/FRA/SK/HU. Sundays have proved a good night
for Gitans (CZ) and their gypsy nights. Gigs begin at 20.30.
Admission up to 150K. QOpen 16.00 - 02.00. E
Retro Music Hall J-6, Praha 2, Franzouzsk 4, MNm.
Mru, tel. (+420) 603 47 67 47, www.retropraha.cz. A
new and rising star of a club of the same name as the adjacent
restaurant and music bar. The club has a good and varied roster
of local and international bands and DJs rocking the decent
floor, balcony and stage space. Open for gigs only and closing
time depends on the band/after party. Admission 30 - 500K
depending on the band. Q Open Thu - Sat 17:00 - 05:00. PE
Rock Caf D-4, Praha 1, Nrodn 20, MNrodn tda,
tel. (+420) 224 93 39 47, www.rockcafe.cz. Three bars
and a funky, boxy lounge with cool mural graffiti and screen
makes Rock Caf continousl y one of the most suave places
in town. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00, Sat 17:00 - 03:00, Sun
17:00 - 01:00. Admission 50 - 100K. EW
Roxy E-2, Praha 1, Dlouh 33, MNm. Republiky, tel.
(+420) 224 82 62 96, www.roxy.cz. Probabl y the best
club in Prague, years of kudos keep the place hopping de-
spite some sound issues. Live acts and DJs plus the divinel y
eclectic Free Mondays. Q Box office open 16:00. Club open
for concerts 19:00, for club nights 22:00. PE
NEW
SaSaZu K-1, Praha 7, Bubensk nbe 306, MVltavsk,
tel. 284 09 74 44, info@sasazu.com, www.sasazu.com.
Pretty cool spot, and definitely the best thing to open here in
recent memory. SaSaZu sports a split-level dance floor with
enough space for up to 2,000 of your nearest and dearest.
Styling dcor; flashing lights and lots of events make this a good
spot to know and go. Mix of DJs and live acts. Other part of the
former warehouse is a Thai restaurant. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00.
Top Secret Club E-2, Praha 1, Masn 9, MStaromstsk,
tel. (+420) 222 31 69 03, www.info@topsecretclub.cz,
www.topsecretclub.cz. The secret's out - Top Secret is one
cool joint. The club is happening; and the cafe is open long hours.
Brunch is offered on the weekends. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Tue,
Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Cafe is open everyday (8:00-
22:00); club only Tuesdays-Saturdays (22:00-5:00.)
U Bukanra F-1, Praha 1, Nbe L. Svobody, MNm.
Republiky, tel. (+420) 608 97 35 82, www.bukanyr.cz.
Find Bukanra, a houseboat-looking floating bar and club at
another new address under tefnikova most. It's small but
friendl y and al ways busy with chilled groups lounging in the
comfortable seating. Various DJs spin discs while boozers
smooze and movers groove. QOpen, Thu 19:00 - 03:00, Fri,
Sat 21:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. The summer
terrace bar is open 16:00 - 24:00, closed Sun & Mon. B
U Buldoka Praha 5, Preslova 1, MAndl, tel. (+420)
257 32 91 54, www.ubuldoka.cz. Straddling the fence
between a munched out smokey di ve of a bar and a club
because i t's open late and has DJs, The Bulldog, in the
same vein that i t was started in a few years ago, is the
receptacle for the flotsam and jetsam from Chateau across
the ri ver. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. Admission
50 - 100K.
Vagon D-4, Praha 1, Nrodn 25, MNrodn tda, tel.
(+420) 221 08 55 99, www.vagon.cz. Vagon was a danc-
ing hall during communist times so if your parents are too old
to boogie here come yourself and check out the dedication to
the artwork, if not exactl y the spirit, of the decadent 1960s.
An excellent li ve venue renowned for quali ty cover bands,
local and international acts plus an open mic night on select
Mondays. QOpen 18:00 - 05:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. E
Vertigo E-4, Praha 1, Havelsk 4, MMstek, tel. (+420)
774 74 42 56, www.vertigo-club.cz. Whether by design
or by accident, this club does indeed spin the mind split
levels and balconies loiter under low ceilings while some of
the weirdest video footage ever accompanies the tracks to
create a space that lures your mind and your feet. Excellent
DJs and unusual theme nights attract a disparate group of
folk. Q Club: Thu - Sat 21:00 - 04:00; caf: 08:00 - 21:00
except club nights open to 04:00. Admission free. P
XT3 Praha 3, Rokycanova 29, MFlra, tel. (+420) 222
78 34 63, www.xt3.cz. A short walk from Flra or JzP, this
fabulous cavern space of a club in ikov has become the new
home of XT3 (it was, and will al ways be to many, Guru). Come
early or be lucky, but get one of the balcony booths. Live music
and/or DJs plus foosball, flippery (pinball),and a caf upstairs
with cool sofas. The eclectic crowd accompanies the talent.
QOpen 11:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 03:00. Admission
from 30K for live acts. E
Zlat asy H-5, Praha 1, Vladislavova 1, MNrodn
tda, tel. (+420) 224 94 81 70, www.zlatecasy.cz. A
perfectly situated music club just off Lazarsk, Zlat asy is an
excellent destination as well as a place to while away the time
till your tram home. Steep stairs lead into the single roomed,
high-ceiled club, perfect for scoping out the talent at the bar
or on the dance floor. Music varies, but later, everyone bops
to Czech pop. Not bad prices either, 40K for a Pilsner Urquell.
Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 04:00,
Sat 16:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun.
Jazz
AghaRTA Jazz Centrum E-3, Praha 1, elezn 16,
MMstek, tel. (+420) 222 21 12 75, info@agharta.cz,
www.agharta.cz. This beautiful arched medieval cellar is the
perfect place to appreciate some of the very fine bands on
the Prague jazz circuit, cut with the odd night of heavy blues.
Arrive earl y to claim a seat at a table. There's a jazz shop,
where they sell CDs including their own compilations of visiting
talent. QOpen 18:00 - 00:30. Concerts daily at 21:00. Admis-
sion 200K. Reservations via email onl y before 15:00. E
Blues Sklep D-3, Praha 1, Lilliov 10, MNrodn tda,
tel. (+420) 774 27 70 60, www.bluessklep.cz. Sklep
means cellar in Czech, and this is a true hewn-from-rock
underground experience - al though it does have that new'
edge to it following complete reconstruction after the floods.
A varied roster of blues, jazz plus some deep funk stal warts
of and newcomers to the scene play nightly. Ferdinand waters
the thirsty crowd for 25K. Admission 100K. Concerts begin
at 21:00. QOpen 19:00 - 02:30.
Drakes G-6, Praha 5, Zborovsk 50, MAndl, tel.
(+420) 257 32 68 28, www.drakes.cz. THE place for
tourists to discover Pragues gay scene. Non stop fun
and games in the dark rooms, bar or dungeon. Q Open
24hrs. Admission 500K.
Escape I-5, Praha 1, V jm 8, MMstek, tel.
(+420) 606 11 11 77, frohna@atlas.cz, www.
escapeprague.cz. Escape has now provided six years
of pleasure to its customers. Every day sees solo strip
and oil shows followed by the megastrip featuring 12-16
lads. Fri & Sat has extra body painting and live shows.
You arent going to want to escape but if you do, ask for
their taxi service. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00.
Termix K-5, Praha 2, Tebzskho 4a, MJiho z
Podbrad, tel. (+420) 222 71 04 62, www.club-
termix.cz. The newest club on the gay scene here and
perhaps the way of things to come as its for gays and
lesbians. Shiny glass bar, cushy sofas and dark rooms.
QOpen 20:00 - 05:00.
The Saints K-5, Praha 2, Polsk 32, MJiho z
Podbrad, tel. (+420) 222 25 03 26, www.saintsbar.
cz. Young and good looking, like their bar staff, the Saints
bar adds a sinful option to Pragues gay scene. Small but
perfectl y formed, Saints has adopted the earl y evening
and late night position on the gay day, as it were. To spice
up life for everyone, these wicked people have introduced
Thursday lesbian nights to their weekl y line-up. Excellent
chill out bar. Walkers Crisps and Smirnoff Ice have coaxed
the Brits in. Gambrinus 35K. Four apartments available
too. QOpen 19:00 - 04:00.
U Rudolfa I-5, Praha 1, Mezibrannsk 3, MMuzeum,
tel. (+420) 605 87 24 92. Highl y recommended as the
onl y gay beer hall in Prague. It is loud, smoky, full of regu-
lars and the onl y music seems to be decades-old Czech
and Slovak hits. English is not the common language here.
QOpen 16:00 - 02:00.
Valentino J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradsk 40, MNm.
Mru, tel. (+420) 222 51 34 91, www.club-valentino.
cz. A new star on the Prague gay scene, Valentino has
linked its street level bar, cafe and cellar dance floor via
a tunnel of love to the dance floor and dark room of old
Gej...zeer to provide three floors of good atmosphere,
lovel y staff and kicking nights, with weekends attracting
a huge, pumping crowd. QOpen 14:00 - 05:00. Admis-
sion free. BEKP
Gay Prague
Jazz Boat D-1, Praha 1, echv most, Kotva boat,
jazzboat.cz. Take a musical journey on the low seas of the
Vl tava. The Jazz Boat sets sail each evening from echv
most and for only 590K you're afforded a two and a half hour
cruise around Prague to the accompaniment of excellent jazz
performed by some of the city's finest musicians. A bar and
restaurant are also at your disposal, but their services are
not included in the bill. It's best to arrive earl y to get good
seats. QOpen 20:30 - 23:00. AEGBK
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NIGHTLIFE
63
NIGHTLIFE
NEW
Jazz Dock Praha 5, Jankovo nbe 2, tel. 774 05 88
38, info@jazzdock.cz, www.jazzdock.cz. Soul, funk, blues
if it jams it's at Jazz Dock. This newly opened riverside club
offers a diverse selection of blues & jazz genres, with a variety
of bands taking the stage every night. Open till the wee hours,
but stop by during the day for a light snack at their rooftop caf.
QOpen 11:00 - 04:00. 150 K standard admission.
Reduta D-4, Praha 1, Nrodn 20, MNrodn tda, tel.
(+420) 224 93 34 87, www.redutajazzclub.cz. Founded
in 1958, Reduta was the first real venue for Czech rock and
roll, playing smuggled El vis records. Reduta has not changed
much since then; don't come for the brown 1980s interior or
the uncomfortable bench seating; Reduta still brings in quality
performers and even attracts a president or two. Vclav Havel
has brought Bill Clinton here twice now, and yes, he did play
his sax. QOpen 21:00 - 24:00. PE
U Malho Glena B-3, Praha 1, Karmelitsk 23,
MMalostransk, tel. (+420) 257 53 17 17, www.maly-
glen.cz. Little Glen's is, appropriately, a tiny venue downstairs
from a scrubbed wooden Irish-type bar, and hosts a wide
spectrum of local bands, with a particularl y strong roster of
jazz and blues acts turning up regularl y. You can book one of
the 20 or so spots crammed in around the tables. QOpen
10:00 - 02:00. Admission Mon, Tue & Thu 120K; Wed, Fri &
Sat 150K; Sun 70K. PAE
Ungelt Jazz & Blues Club E-2, Praha 1, Tnsk ulika
2, MNm. Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 89 57 48, www.
jazzblues.cz. Wander to the pub upstairs, and you'll be pleas-
antly surprised by the cheerful atmosphere and cheap drinks.
Go down the stairs and you descend into the more expected
territory of clinging onto your cash for dear life, though it does
host some good bluesy jazz. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00; club open
20:00 - 02:00. Admission free.
U Star pan H-4, Praha 1, Michalsk 9, MMstek, tel.
(+420) 603 55 16 80, www.jazzlounge.cz. An elevated
stage, a fancy Petrov grand piano and a regular schedule
of quality, contemporary jazz make U Star pan a favourite
venue for Prague's serious jazz aficionado, local, expatriate
and tourist alike. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. PAEG
Pubs
Caffrey's E-3, Praha 1, Staromstsk nm. 10,
MStaromstsk, tel. (+420) 224 82 80 31, www.caffreys.
cz. Good service and a great location on Staromtsk nm.
make this a popular Irish pub for many, including large parties
of stag nighters. Old Town prices are justified by their excellent
food menu (try the authentic Irish breakfast), first rate Guinness,
Bulmer's cider, Walker's crisps and more to make you feel right
at home. A good venue to watch all the major (GAA too) sporting
events. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. PABK
George & Dragon E-2, Praha 1, Staromstsk nm.
11, MStaromstsk, tel. (+420) 222 32 61 37. A British
pub landed slap bang in the middle of Old Town Square. TV
screens, a big screen and footy shirts line the walls so it won't
remind you of the country outside. Good food, including an all
day breakfast with the atmosphere you want to see your team
play and win, with any luck. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. ABK
Jma D-4, Praha 1, V jm 7, MMstek, tel. (+420) 224
22 23 83, www.jamapub.cz. The memorabilia may be a bit
over the top, but it's preferable to the obligatory stop signs
and imi tation Coke/Pepsi prints elsewhere. The Hollow's
worn wooden seats are home to expats and locals alike, who
frequent this bar for its burgers, BLTs and Tex-Mex as well as
the cheap local specials and beer. Bring your laptop for free
wi-fi. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. TAGBKW
J.J.Murphy's A-2, Praha 1, Trit 4, MMalostransk,
tel. (+420) 257 53 55 75, www.jjmurphys.cz. Don't worry,
they also have Guinness. If you pine for the days when you
could enjoy a pint, a good meal and your favourite sporting
event without screaming Englishmen in dresses working on
their 20th beer, then bell y up to this Irish bar. Watch live sport
from one of the sofas in the attic lounge or have a proper
breakfast wi th pudding or a real American burger on the
ground floor. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. AK
Malostransk pivnice C-2, Praha 1, Ciheln 3, MMalos-
transk, tel. (+420) 257 53 00 32, www.malostranskapiv-
nice.cz. A Pilsner Urquell restaurant serving the flagship 12
brew for just 30K, with Kozel on tap and a large, sunny and
shady courtyard complete with weeping willow makes this a
super stop for liquid and solid sustenance on the tourist trail.
Inside, TVs draw crowds for sporting events, while the presence
of locals and the friendly multi-lingual staff keep standards high.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (120 - 600K). B
Martin's Irish Pub I-6, Praha 2, Lublask 57, MI.P.
Pavlova, tel. (+420) 222 51 81 17. This is an Irish bar for
locals who crave the beer and atmosphere of the Emerald
Isle without the English-speakers. The menu lists Czech-style
international dishes and some of the cheapest Guinness in
town at 59K. It's probabl y also the onl y pub of its genre to
offer Kung Pao pork and onl y one TV. Odd, yet refreshing.
QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PBK
Merlin J-6, Praha 2, Blehradsk 68a, MI.P. Pavlova,
tel. (+420) 222 52 20 54, http://merlin-pub.hyperlink.
cz. Merlin the magician shares brick wall space with Guinness
posters and other emblems of Irishness, intermingled with
antique agricul tural contraptions. The long bar resembles
that of an authentic pub and the sofas add to the laid-back
feel. The lower level houses the restaurant, which serves
the usual options with more than a dash of a varied Mexican
menu. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. K
Molly Malone's E-2, Praha 1, U Obecnho dvora 4,
MNm. Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 81 88 51, www.mol-
lymalones.cz. A quiet, nicel y downbeat Irish pub. Odds and
ends of bashed about furniture clutter the scrubbed wooden
floors making it a perfect oasis for fairly well-heeled slumming.
Take your time contemplating the excellent menu over some
cider or a Guinness. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PAUK
Na Police K-6, Praha 2, Moravsk 40, MJiho z
Podbrad, tel. (+420) 603 83 88 99. The one police sta-
tion we'd gladl y get locked in. Police has a young clientele
and a noisy, smoky bierkeller atmosphere which is a great
accompaniment for their brews - this microbrewery has been
fermenting their nectar since 1517. Dark and light beers on
tap and in bottles, plus food and cocktails. Cheap too, at
just 14 - 17K for a beer. The door is on Chodsk. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. Also at Korunovan 9. K
Rocky O'Reilly's I-5, Praha 1, tpnsk 32,
MMstek, tel. (+420) 222 23 10 60, www.rockyoreil-
lys.cz. Photos of prestigious poets and pubs, Guinness on
draught and an O' in its name all meet the criteria for a clas-
sic Irish watering hole. Other perks include hearty portions
of international food including a huge Irish breakfast served
anytime, Sky Sports broadcast on several TVs and wait staff
that can easil y draw your attention away from the football.
QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PAK
Sherlock's Pub D-4, Praha 1, Bartolomjsk 11,
MNrodn tda, tel. (+420) 226 21 19 39, www.sher-
lockspub.cz. This split level pub with somewhat authentic
feel, paintings all over the walls and small courtyard is the
Prague location for the Ostrava original. Part sport bar, part
cocktail bar and part pub, Sherlock's has many stairs, plays
some terrible tunes but has a good kitchen which is open till
03:00. Staropramen costs, strangel y, more that Stella and
drink specials at weekends will make those stairs more dif-
ficul t QOpen 17:00 - 04:00. BK
Tlust koala F-3, Praha 1, Senovn 1394/8, MNm.
Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 24 54 01. The Fat Koala boasts
(if that's the word) Foster's lager, but everything else is more
international than Aussie. With 11 beers on tap and more
in bottles, this place is a dream and prices (Staropramen
31K) are not that high considering its location. Two floors
of pub ambience and private rooms keep people lingering
long after the hearty meals have been sufficientl y washed
down. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 15:00 - 04:00. (100 -
800K). PAK
U ernho vola Praha 1, Loretnsk nm. 1, MMalos-
transk, tel. (+420) 220 51 34 81. It's almost unbelievable
to find a genuine, top-quality, great priced Czech pub just up
the hill from the castle. Yet here it is. A tiled hall full of wooden
benches, sextagenerians and the best Kozel on the planet.
Walk up Nerudova (A-2), continue up voz and make a right.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
U Zl atho tygra D- 3, Praha 1, Husova 17,
uzlatehotygra.cz. Havel took Bill Clinton here to demonstrate
Czech drinking cul ture (and let's face it, if there's one thing
Havel knows, it's his booze). Get there by opening time to
have any chance of getting in. The Pilsner brewery makes
special deli veries here - the beer is pumped directl y into
the large tanks below the bar. A national institution. QOpen
15:00 - 23:00. K
Sports bars
Dubliner Irish Bar F-2, Praha 1, Tn 1, MStaromstsk,
tel. (+420) 224 89 54 04. Formerly Legends sports bar, the
Dubliner bills itself as an Irish sports pub. Whatever, you've
still got 12 TV's + 2 large screens now nestled in a homel y
Irish pub atmosphere. If there's an international sport match
you gotta watch it's highl y likel y you'll see it here. Weekends
visi ting DJ's rule the roost. QOpen, Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu,
Sun 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (100 - 400K).
PJAEK
Praga Sport Caf E-4, Praha 1, Jungmannovo nm.
21, MMstek. A paradoxicall y secluded and central spot
which attracts the stag partiers for its location off Wenceslas
Sq., for the several plasma screens showing all European
satelli te channels and for the adul t entertainment location
upstairs. Even after the whistle has blown, this sport bar
is known to continue the party. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00.
ABW
Shamrock Irish Pub F-4, Praha 1, Vclavsk nm.
56, MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 224 03 24 81. The two-floor
cellar space is accessible via a deceptivel y small entrance
at street level. Upon entering, any subtlety is wiped out by 4
massive projection screens, numerous smaller TVs around
the circular-ish room and hordes of chanting fans. Good food,
the famous Irish breakfast and all European channels attract
sport fans and staggers alike. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 04:00. (100 - 350K). PAK
The Beer Factory I-5, Praha 1, Vclavsk nm. 58,
MMstek, tel. (+420) 736 63 08 68. Down see-through
steps (which could make things hallucinogenic later on)
is this industrial-looking and functional, as the name sug-
gests, beer factory. Well located and easil y locatable by the
square's landmark statue, this beer hall's cavernous space
should be packed dail y - just look at those opening hours.
Taps at your table serve Pilsner Urquell (at 39K) while mi x
drinks, coffee and hearty Czech dishes are served up by the
staff. TVs offer music and sport. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00.
(150 - 350K). PK
The Pack I-5, Praha 1, Ve Smekch 21, MMuzeum,
tel. (+420) 222 21 02 80, www.thepack.cz. Tail or
made for i ts fans wi th scantil y clad wai tresses, flat screen
TVs in ever y room, Guinness and Strongbow (90/85K)
on tap, a full English breakfast wi th Heinz beans, and
opening hours to cater for spor ts from all continents.
A hi gher class of pub food is also availabl e from wings
(150K) and burgers (250K) to the massi ve doubl e fil et
mi gnon (950K). Gambrinus 55K. Q Open Mon & Fri
09:00 - 02:00; Tue - Thu 12:00 - 02:00; Sat, Sun 06:30
- 02:00. JAK
Venue 73 I-1, Praha 7, Veletrn 73, MVltavsk,
tel. (+420) 728 13 99 03, www.venue73.cz. In addi-
ti on to two (real) dar t boards, 7 TVs and one bi g screen,
semi -pri vate booths i n the VI P room wi th i ndi vi dual
screens, English bacon, sausages (full breakfast from
99K), Colman's mustard and Branston pi ckl e, they will
reputedl y have li ve online betting and Sky High Defini tion.
The fabl ed curri es never materialised, but the Sunday
roast (195K) and other Bri t goodi es more than satisfy.
Gambrinus 25K, Pilsner Urquell 30K. QOpen 10:00 -
23:00. (30 - 200K). K
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65
The largest collection of wonders in the city, Prague castle
is an amalgamation of architecture from different periods.
From the almost pastoral serenity of St. Georges Basilica,
to the awe-inspiring Gothic power of St. Vitus Cathedral,
the castle has attractions for all - history and architecture
plus marching soldiers and entertainment.
Approach & Entry A-1, Praha 1, Hradany, tel. 224 37
33 68, www.hrad.cz. There are two information centres,
one in the second courtyard and one in the third. Here you
can find out what time the changing of the guard takes place,
buy tickets and get audio guides.
There are four ways to approach the castle. By far the best
way is to take tram N22 to the Pohoelec stop, where you start
with breathtaking views of Prague from Strahov Monastery;
then walk down through beautiful Hradansk district along
Loretnsk towards the main castle entrance on Hradansk
nmst. You can skip the Hradansk walk by getting off the
tram earlier, at the Prask hrad stop, from where you enter
the second courtyard. Alternatively, walk up Nerudova and the
steep hill from Malostransk nmst. The worst approach is
up the Star zmeck schody steps near Malostransk metro
station; these are best kept for the way down. Q Buildings &
Info: From 1 November - 31 March: open 09:00 - 16:00. Court-
yards (admission free) open 06:00 - 23:00. Castle gardens
and Jelen pkop are closed. From 1 April - 31 October: open
09:00 - 18:00. Courtyards (admission free) open 05:00 - 24:00.
Castles gardens and Jeleni prikop 10:00 - 18:00. Admission
to the Old Royal Palace, St. Georges Basilica, Powder Tower,
Picture Gallery and Golden Lane: 350K (long tour.) Cathedral,
Old Royal Palace, St. Georges Basilica and Golden Lane: 250K
(short tour.) Reductions for families.
Sternberg Palace (ternbersk palc) Hradansk
nm. 15. Sharing an entrance with the Archbishops Palace
is the ternbersk palc from 1698. Its part of the National
Gallery and home to a collection of European art, including
Rubens and Rembrandt. In 1991 thieves stole US$2.6 million
worth of Picassos. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
First courtyard Pause at the castle gates to admire the
soldiers uniforms (designed by the wardrobe designer of the
film Amadeus), and hopefull y see the changing of the guard.
Then move into the courtyard flanking the presidential rooms,
which are not open to the public. These are numerous and
include the Spanish Hall, once the venue for meetings of the
Czechoslovak Communist Party. As you walk through the
archway, the steps on your right are where many of the official
greetings are made to visiting heads of state.
Second courtyard Reconstructed by Empress Maria
Theresa, this courtyard acts as an intersection point for
two of the entrances into the castle. You can exit under the
archway to reach the Stag Moat, Royal Gardens and trams
N22 and 23.
St. Vitus Cathedral (Kat-
edrla svatho Vta)
Moving into the third courtyard
of the castle youll face one of Eu-
ropes great Gothic cathedrals.
St. Vitus is the spiritual heart of
the nation as the mausoleum of
Bohemian kings and the citys
greatest landmark. Work on the
present cathedral was started in
1344 but it wasnt consecrated
until 1929. Check out Muchas
stained glass window and the
door with seven locks leading
to the crown jewels. Dont miss
the beautiful mosaic depicting the Last Judgment of Christ on the
exterior of the cathedral. The mosaic is 84 square metres and
was created in 1371. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00.
Old Royal Palace (Star krlovsk palc). One of the
oldest and most impressive parts of the castle, the Old Royal
Palace dates from 1135 and was the seat of Bohemian princes.
From the 13th to the 16th century it was the kings palace. The
magnificent Vladislav Hall was used for banquets, councils,
coronations and even jousting. All presidents have been sworn
in here, and this building was where the 1618 defenestration
took place. The palace contains The Story of Prague Castle
exhibition. Dont forget to have a look at the Rampart Gardens
below. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 120/60K.
Gol den Lane (Zl at
ulika) The phrase pi c-
turesque street might have
been invented to descri be
this tiny cobbled lane with its
miniature workers cottages
- now shops. I t was on this
street, or so l egend has i t,
that 16th-century alchemists
laboured to discover the Philosophers Stone to make gold
from lead. Franz Kafka spent evenings at his sisters house,
N22. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00.
Daliborka Tower Built in 1496 and used as a prison till the
end of 18th century, the tower stands on your left as you exit the
Golden Lane. It is so named for its first prisoner, Dalibor of Kozojedy,
whose story was told by Smetana in his 1868 opera Dalibor. The
underground cell is truly terrifying. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00.
Royal Gardens & Stag Moat (Krlovsk zahrada)
North of the castle walls are a succession of orderl y and
manicured gardens. They were first laid out in 1534 and are
home to the Movna or Ball Game Hall, the most ornate
sports centre weve ever seen. Further along the eastern
edge of the castle area you can find the Renaissance summer
palace (Krlovsk letohrdek), where Europes first tulips, a
present from Turkey, were cul ti vated. The views over the
castle and city are great from here.
The Stag Moat (Jelen pkop, open 09:00 - 16:00) below the
ramparts of the castle was reopened to the general public by
President Vaclav Havel. Despite the name there hasnt been a
stag here since ravenous soldiers gobbled up the last of them
by the 17th century. The gardens on the southern side of the
castle can be entered via steps to the right of the main castle
gate. The main garden on the southern side is the ramparts
garden (Zahrada Na Valech), which overlooks Mal Strana. The
Rampart Gardens are bordered to the west by the Paradise
Garden (Rajsk zahrada) and on the south to the Hartig Garden
(Hartigovsk zahrada), which surrounds the Music Pavilion
(Hudebn pavilon).QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed in winter
PRAGUE CASTLE
The essentials of Prague - if you see nothing else, do not
miss these sights. Obviously in this city that has been a
destination for hundreds of years, there is much to see
and do, and one of the most enjoyable aspects is just
wandering around. Dont forget to look up as the gilded
spires are rightfully what Prague is renowned for. But keep
an eye of the ground too - dog owners are not renowned
for their cleaning-up ability.
Charles Bridge (Karlv
most ) C- 3, Pr aha 1,
MStaromstsk. Karl v
most joins Star Msto (Old
Town) and the Mal Strana
(Li ttle Quarter) and is one of
the worl ds most beauti ful
bridges. The bridge was buil t
in 1357, but the figures of saints were added during the
17th century. They symbolise the confidence of the Catholic
Austrians triumph over the Protestant Hussites. The bridge is
thronged all day with tourists, while at night it offers wonderful
views of the illuminated castle and Old Town. Go at dawn to be
alone and witness the saints emerging from the mist.
Municipal House (Obec-
n Dm) F-3, Praha 1, nm.
Republiky 5, MNm. Re-
publiky, tel. 222 00 21 27,
www.obecnidum.cz. The
magnificent Obecn Dm build-
ing hol ds t wo restaurants,
a super caf, an Ameri can
bar, a gallery, shop and clas-
sical music venue. Buil t between 1905 and 1910 in the
archi tecturall y stunning Art Nouveau style, the Municipal
House has been painstakingl y restored to its former glory.
It was here that the Czechoslovakian state was signed into
being on October 28, 1918. It was also here in 1989 that
communist bureaucrats and revolution leaders of the Civic
Forum discussed the velvet transfer of power and the states
transformation to democracy.
National Theatre (Nrod-
n divadlo) C-4, Nrodn 2,
MNrodn tda, tel. 224
90 14 48. This lavish neo-
Renaissance building on the
bank of the Vl tava, wi th i ts
golden crown of chariot-driving
women, is Pragues National
Theatre. The building was completed in 1881 and was
almost immediatel y destroyed by fire. It reopened in 1883.
See Events for the current programme.
Ol d To wn S q u a r e
( S t a r o m s t s k
nmst) E-3, Praha 1,
MStaromstsk. The indis-
putable heart of Prague. This
vast open space is flanked by
a pleasing blend of carefull y
restored archi tectural styles:
Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque
and neo-styles. The square is
notable for its constant hum of
activity, day and night, and a
long history as centre stage for
so many of the citys defining
moments, from the execution
of preacher J. elivsk in 1422,
to the attacks on Soviet tanks wi th Molotov cocktails in
1968. Towering above the square, half-hidden behind a row
of houses, is the fairy-turreted Tn Church. The centrepiece
of the square is a memorial to Jan Hus. I t was draped in
swastikas by the Nazis and in black cloth to mourn the passing
of the Prague Spring.
Town Hall & Astronomi-
cal clock (Staromest-
sk radnice) E-3, Praha
1, Star omstsk nm.,
MStaromstsk. The 14th
centur y Town Hall compl ex
features a tower wi th an as-
tronomical clock, added in the
15th century. Every hour on the
hour Jesus and his disciples
lead a pageant that includes
the allegorical figures of Death,
the Turk, the Miser, the Fool
and the Rooster. I t sounds
more impressive than it actu-
ally is, but its still worth a look.
The climb or lift up the tower
is rewarded by the stunning views. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00,
Mon 11:00 - 18:00. Admission 60/40K.
Vyehrad H-7, Praha 2,
Sobslavova 1, MVyehrad.
The rocky cli ff-top boasts
Pragues second castl e. In
the hearts and minds of many
Czechs, Vyehrad symbolises
the birth of the Czech nation
and is shrouded in legend and
myth. This is apparentl y the
spot where Princess Libue
stood and predicted the rise of
a great city. Literally translated
as high castle, it was probably
founded in the middle of the
10th century. In 972 Prince
Boleslav II buil t the royal mint here, and in 1085 Vratislav
II selected it as his residence. Over the following centuries
successive kings remodelled the palace and fortress, but
moved their permanent home across the river. Within the
fortress confines is the national cemetery (Vyehradsk
hbitov), which from the 1870s became the final resting place
of many of the most famous Czech writers and composers,
including Jan Neruda, Bedich Smetana and Antonn Dvok.
QOpen 09:30 - 17:30.
Wencesl as Squar e
(Vclavsk nmst )
F-4, Praha 1, Vclavsk
nm., MMstek. Vclavsk
nmst is actually a boule-
vard running down from the
Nati onal Museum and the
equestrian statue of Saint
Wenceslas to Mstek, former-
ly the site of a city gate and drawbridge. This is where crowds
traditionally come to demonstrate against their incompetent
rulers, and this was where, in 1989, thousands gathered to
shake their keys in celebration of the death of the Communist
Party. Rows of shops, hotels (note the Art Nouveau glory of
Hotel Europa) and nightclubs flank the pavements, and by
night it can get a bit sleasy. Thankfully, there are plans to rid
the square of cars, bury the highway in front of the museum in
a tunnel and have tram N11 make a come-back.
THE ESSENTIALS
66
WHAT TO SEE
67
WHAT TO SEE
Churches
Bet hl ehem Chapel
( Bet l msk Kapl e)
D-3, Praha 1, Betlmsk
nmst, MStaromstsk.
From 1402 to 1412, Jan Hus
preached at the Bethlehem
Chapel, hence it's significance
for non-Catholics, but in 1622,
the Jesuits took control of the
chapel and Catholi c mass
became the service of the day.
Then in 1786 it was levelled,
onl y to be rebuil t (somewhat
strangel y) by the communists,
who had preserved its archi-
tectural plans in 1950. Apparentl y, they were keen to exploit
the chapel's symbolism as an historic emblem of Czech
national pride. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon.
Church of Our Lady Victorious B-3, Praha 1, Karmel-
itsk 9, MMalostransk, tel. (+420) 257 53 36 46,
www.prag-jesu.info. This house of worship was buil t by
German Lutherans between 1611-1615. To the right of
the entrance is a commemorative site to the 16th century
Spanish nun, St. Therese of Avila, who along with friar John of
the Cross, reformed the Carmelite order into what is known
as the Discalced Carmelites. Further inside is the church's
claim to fame, a 45cm high wax statuette of Jesus known
as the Infant Jesus of Prague, which is a pilgrimage site of
sorts - for its historical and religious importance, and a couple
of unnamed miracles that have been attached to it. QOpen
08:30 - 19:00, Sun 08:30 - 20:00.
Loreta A-1, Praha 1, Loren-
tnsk nm. 7. One of the
country's most famous places
of pilgrimage, this chapel is just
a qui ck walk from the main
entrance to the castle. Buil t
bet ween 1626-1720, thi s
Baroque buil ding contains,
among other i cons and ob-
jects, a painting of a bearded
lady, ornate friezes, bejewelled
i cons and a hi gh quota of
chubby-cheeked cherubs. The
small museum also houses a
collection of diamond ostensories. Within the main chapel
there is the brickwork supposedl y from the original Loreto in
Ital y which was flown over from Ital y by some well-meaning
angels. Blasphemers take note - the split in the wall was sup-
posedl y caused by a thunderbol t fired off at one of your kind.
Q Open 09:00 - 12:15, 13:00 - 16:30. Admission 110/90K.
Our Lady of Snow (U
Panny Marie Snn) E-4,
Praha 1, Jungmannovo nm,
MMstek. The toweri ng
Gothic torso hidden near V-
clavsk nmst was started
off in 1347 by Charles IV as
a Carmelite order monastery.
Construction was stopped by the Hussites in 1419, and onl y
the 34m-high choir of the planned 110m-long church was
finished. The Franciscans renovated the ruins of the church in
1604, adding the magnificent Renaissance al tar. The peace-
ful adjacent monastery gardens (Frantiknsk zahrada) are
an excellent place to soak up the sun.
St. Ignatius Church (Kostel Sv. Ignce) H-5, Praha
2, Jen 2, MKarlovo nmst, tel. (+420) 224 92 12 54.
The construction of what was intended to be a basilica began
in 1665 on these very grounds. In 1671 the church alongside
Karlovo Square was finall y completed and the large statue
of Saint Ignatius, the founder of the Jesuit order, was placed
on top. The church is still active and run by Jesuit monks.
St. Nicholas Church B-2,
Praha1, Malostransk nm.
38, MMalostransk, tel.
(+420) 224 19 09 91. Con-
struction of this Baroque pile
began in 1673, but it would be
nearl y another 80 years until
the Jesuits completed it. Peer
closel y at the copper statue
of St. Nicholas above the gold
coated al tar; the two statues
below him are of St. Ignatius
Loyola and St. Francis Xavier.
The ceiling fresco depi cts
the apotheosis of St. Nicholas. Also of interest is the organ,
which has 2500 pipes and 44 registers, and it was these
very ivories that Mozart tinkled on his visit to Prague. QOpen
10:00 - 17:00. Admission 70/50K.
Strahov Monastery Praha
1, Strahovsk ndvo 1, tel.
(+420) 233 10 77 18, www.
strahovskyklaster.cz. The
Strahov Monastery has stood
on the approach to the castle
since 1140. Today, this Ro-
manesque monastery houses
various museums for religious
arts and is home to the quite
stunning central chapel. The
Museum of Czech Literature
(open 09:00 - 12:00; 13:00 -
17:00, admission 50K), is housed in the monastic libraries.
The Theological and Philosophical Halls are superb but
can onl y be viewed from the doorways. Items available for
closer inspection are manuscripts from the 14th century,
a stuffed dodo, and a large collection of crabs, fish, shells
and insects. The Strahov Gallery in the central courtyard
(open 09:00 - 17:00, admission 35K) has one of the finest
collections of monastic art in Central Europe. Trams N22,23
to Pohoelec. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 60/40K.
Sts. Cyril and Methodius Church H-5, Praha 1,
Resslova 9, MKarlovo nmst, tel. (+420) 224 92 06
86. This Orthodox church was buil t in honour of Sts. Cyril and
Methodius, the men responsible for the Slavonic alphabet.
However, most people know about this church because of
what happened here at 04:10 on the morning of June 18,
1942 when the Nazis had discovered that the seven Czech
parachutists involved in the assassination of Reichsprotektor
Heydrich were hiding in the crypt. The west side of Karlovo
nmst was cordoned off by 800 troops from the SS and the
Gestapo. Three of the soldiers died as the SS stormed the
church. The remaining four fought on. After hours of shoot-
ing and a long stand-off which led to the Germans deciding
to li terall y flush them out, they used their last bullets on
each other. The bullet-scarred exterior wall holds a plaque
in honour of their bravery. Q Crypt open 10:00 - 17:00; Sun
12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Museums & Galleries
City Museum (Muzeum hlavnho msta Prahy)
B-3, Praha 1, Na Po 52, tel. (+420) 224 81 67 72,
www.muzeumprahy.cz. This homage to the ci ty of a
hundred spires includes a paper model of the city that took
11 years to create and a gigantic model of the entire city
at the beginning of the 19th century. This wood and paper
model was made from 1829-1837 by Antonin Langweil and
is a highlight to the museum. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 110/40K.
Cubism Museum F-3, Praha 1, Ovocn trh 19, MNm.
Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 21 17 46, www.ngprague.
cz. The angular grace of 1920s cubism is apparent in the
minimalist and abstract lines of the sculptures, paintings,
furniture, ceramics and architecture on show at this small but
delightful museum. Cubism in the Czech Republic permeated
all aspects of design, applied arts and graphics, which is beau-
tifull y illustrated by the variety of exhibits. The House at the
Black Madonna, which houses the museum, was built in 1911
as a department store and is itself a monument to Cubism.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100/50K.
Czech Museum of Fine Arts (esk muzeum
vtvarnch umn v Praze) D-3, Praha 1, Husova
19 - 21, tel. (+420) 222 22 02 18, www.cmvu.cz. Large
collection of fine arts including classics and more modern
works. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50K.
Decorative Arts Museum (UpM) D-2, Praha 1, 17.
listopadu 2, tel. (+420) 251 09 31 35, www.upm.cz.
Basicall y, this is a museum of stuff. Its permanent exhibit
showcases what normal articles (clocks, ceramics, glass,
clothing, photographs, furniture) from the 19th-20th century.
You wont bump into philosopher Emmanuel Kant here; he
believed that an esthetic object is onl y art if it has no use
(hes also long dead). Built in 1899 in commemoration of Franz
Josef becoming emperor, the building itself is impressive, too.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 80/40K. A
DOX Centre for Contemporary Art Praha 7, Osadn
34, tel. (+420) 224 93 09 27, info@doxprague.org,
www.doxprague.org. Opened in October 2008; DOX is
sure to make a splash on Pragues still burgeoning contem-
porary art scene. The building itself is amazing - a mix of old
metal factory and new build right in the heart of industrial
Holeovice. Organizers plan to showcase present contem-
porary art from around the world; as well as offer exposure to
Czech contemporary artists. QOpen , Mon, Sat, Sun 10:00 -
18:00, Wed, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue. Adults: 120k
Children: 80k.
Dvok Museum I-6, Praha 2, Ke Karlovu 20, tel.
(+420) 224 92 33 63, www.nm.cz. The Dvok Museum
is housed in the so-called Villa America, a Baroque summer
palace designed by Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer, who was
also responsible for the beauti ful St. Nicholas Church in
Mal Strana. This museum houses a good collection of
memorobilia from the li fe and work of Dvok, the Czech
composer famous for the New World Symphony, among
others. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission
40K.
Dvorak Sec Contemporary E-2, Praha 1, Dlouh
5, MStaromstsk, tel. (+420) 604 20 46 53, info@
dvoraksec.com, www.dvoraksec.com. In addi tion to
displaying their own collections, the new gallery space in
Old Town offers young and emerging artists as well as more
established international artists. Their newl y reconstructed
building is an amazing space in itself. QOpen 9:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Futura Praha 5, Holekova 49, MAndl, tel. (+420)
251 51 18 04, www.futuraproject.com. This non-profi t
gallery was opened in June 2003 to provide an accessible
space for contemporary art. Three floors of a renovated
factory. Tram 4, 7, 9, 10 to Bertramka. Q Open Wed - Sun
11:00 - 18:00.
Galerie Jaroslava Fragnera D-4, Praha 1, Betlmsk
nmst 5a, tel. (+420) 222 22 21 57, www.gjf.cz. An
exhibition hall showcasing, for the most part, the artistic ele-
ments of architecture. The gallery works in partnership with
the Czech Architecture Foundation and exhibits fine examples
of groundbreaking Czech and international architectural mar-
vels. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 40/20.
Gal eri e La Femme E- 2, Praha 1, B l kova 2,
MStaromstsk, tel. (+420) 224 81 26 56, www.glf.
cz. A small but fully laden gallery celebrating woman as eternal
inspiration, al though the myriad pieces hanging, stacked or
free standing have subjects beyond women. Vibrant oils,
tactile sculptures, evocative sketches, international exhibi-
tions and more make La Femme a place to explore and buy.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Galerie Vclava ply Praha 1, Nrodn 30, MMstek,
tel. (+420) 224 94 67 38, www.spalovka.cz. The Galerie
Vclava pl y is once again open to the public and promising
the same prestigious exhibitions it was once renowned for.
pla was a Czech avant-garde painter from the earl y 20th
century. The museums heyday was in the late 60s-earl y
70s, and again after 1989. The beginning of the new century
saw a change in management and vision. Now, its back and
the art scene will be richer for it. Expect a wide-variety of
contemporary art from both foreign and local artists. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20/10K.
Gallery KusKovu J-3, Praha 1, Biskupsk dvr 6,
MNm. Republiky, tel. (+420) 737 20 01 27, www.kus-
kovu.cz. The Piece of Metal gallery is a blacksmiths delight,
showing and selling metal sculptures, objects and jewellery.
QOpen 13:00 - 20:00, Sat 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Historical Museum A-1, Praha 1, Prask hrad, Jisk
3, tel. (+420) 257 53 59 79, www.nm.cz. Lobkovick
Palac, in the castle area, dates back to the 9th century and
the origins of the castle itself. The palace, which was restored
during the Renaissance, now houses the Historical Museum,
which, as its name implies, gives a detailed history of the
country until 1848. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 40K.
Around Prague Information Centre E-3, Praha 1,
Celetn 14, MStaromstsk, tel. (+420) 224 49 17
64/(+420) 224 49 17 22, www.aroundprague.cz.
Tickets, accommodation, sightseeing tours, guidebooks,
maps and more. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Prague Info E-3, Praha 1, Staromstsk nm. 1,
(Old Town Hall), MStaromstsk, www.prague-info.
cz. This excellent official tourist information centre pro-
vides vocal and written information in various languages
from helpful and knowledgeable staff, plus tickets, excur-
sions, and accommodation. For general information in
English, Czech or German call tel. 124 44. QOpen 09:00
- 19:30. Also at I-3, Praha hlavn ndra & B-2, Praha 1,
Mal Strana Tower, open 10:00 - 18:00.
Tourist information
68
WHAT TO SEE
69
WHAT TO SEE
House at the White Unicorn (Dm u blho
jednoroce) E-3, Praha 1, Staromestsk nm. 15,
daliexhibition.cz. This central exhibition space caters to the
big names, and not onl y in Czech art. Much to the delight of
the worlds moustache aficionados, this house is exhibiting
a selection of graphics, sculpture and pottery from Salvador
Dali. Another area is dedicated to Alfons Mucha, the master
of Art Nouveau while a neighbouring house (E-3, Praha 1,
Celetn 9, tel. 222 31 30 64) hosts a selection of images
from the infamous photographer Jan Saudek. QOpen 10:00
- 20:00. Admission 150/70K. Saudek & Mucha 150/70K
or 250/120K combined ticket.
Jewellery Collection C-2, Praha 1, Ciheln 2b, tel.
(+420) 221 45 13 33. The Hergetova cihelna (brickyard
building) near Karlv most, houses an exhibi tion from the
collection of the Museum of Decorative Arts. This incredible
array of pieces illustrating the the art of jewellery design from
the 17th century includes items from Faberg and Tiffany.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Ji Svtsk Gallery J-3, Praha 1, Biskupsk dvr 6,
jirisvestka.com. A pri vate gallery that promotes modern
and contemporary art in the Czech Republic and internation-
all y and has garnered renown by introducing Czech artists to
major galleries overseas. In addition to their collections, and
exhibitions, it has a large collection of art periodicals plus art
and architectural titles in Czech and English. Q Open 12:00 -
18:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun & Mon.
Kafka Museum C-2, Praha
1, Hergetova Cihelna, Ci-
heln 2b, tel. (+420) 257 53
55 07, www.kafkamuseum.
cz. This new collection entitled
The City of K. Franz Kafka and
Prague opened in Barcelona
in 1999, transferred to the
Jewish Museum in New York in 2002 and opened in Prague
in the summer of 2005. This museum illuminates the crucial
relationship between the man and the city. It is divided into
Existential Space where we see what Prague did with and
to Kafka, and Imaginary Topography which looks at how
Kafka creates enigmatic layers of his city through first editions
and letters, diaries and manuscripts, and audiovisual pieces.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 120/60K.
Kampa Museum B-3, Praha 1, U Sovovch mln 2,
tel. (+420) 257 28 61 47, www.museumkampa.cz.
Museum Kampa is located on the west bank of the Vl tava in
the shadow of Prague Castle. The museum has on display
three major permanent exhibitions, featuring works by the
pioneering abstract artist Frantiek Kupka, Cubist sculptor
Otto Gutfreund and a large collection of modern works dating
from the 1950s to present day by Central European artists.
They also have temporary exhibits. The museum has a beau-
tiful restaurant with an outside terrace overlooking the river.
A visit to Museum Kampa is definitel y worthwhile. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00. Admission varies according to exhibition.
Langhans Galerie I-4, Praha 1, Vodikova 37,
MMstek, tel. (+420) 222 92 93 33, www.lang-
hansgalerie.cz. The sleek lined, clean-cut minimalism of
a award-winning symbiosis of old and new archi tecture is
complemented beautifull y by the photographic exhibitions
hanging on its walls. Behind the Foto koda store, which in
itself is a museum of old and new cameras. QOpen 12:00
- 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 60/20K.
Leica Gallery Praha 1, kolsk 28, MMstek, tel.
(+420) 608 96 35 24, www.lgp.cz. Their new Gallery will
be open again on 7 May. Check out their cafe, bookshop, and
of course some of the best photo exhibits in town. QOpen
11:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Mnes Exhibition Hall G-5, Praha 1, Masarykovo
nbe 250, tel. (+420) 224 93 0 7 54, www.nadace-
cfu.cz. A major exhibi tion space for all forms of modern
and contemporary art from the Czech Art Fund Foundation.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Miniatures Museum Praha 1, Strahovsk ndvo
11, tel. (+420) 233 35 23 71, www.muzeumminiatur.
com. This museum contains odd scribblings on grains
of rice, the Lords Prayer wri tten on one human hair, the
worlds small est book, and mini tures of masterpi eces.
They have magni fying glasses. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Admission 50K.
Mozart Museum (Bertramka) Praha 5, Mozartova
169, MAndl, tel. (+420) 257 31 67 53, www.
bertramka.cz. This museum, dedicated to the Austrian
Wunderkind and the famil y he lived with in Prague, is located
in a 17th century villa. The villa, owned by the Duek famil y,
is where Mozart wrote Don Giovanni. Theres a bust of the
famed composer in the villa gardens, and music scores and
concert posters are preserved inside. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00.
Admission 110/50K.
Mucha Museum F-4, Praha 1, Pansk 7, MMstek,
tel. (+420) 221 45 13 33, www.mucha.cz. Mucha shaped
the Art Nouveau movement wi th his groundbreaking (and
often stolen from Paris streets) posters for actress Sarah
Bernhardt and the Theatre de la Renaissance, and has
some renown as a photographer wi th the studies for his
various masterpieces. He also has an excellent shot of a
trouserless Paul Gauguin at a harmonium. A fitting tribute to
artistic genius, whether you prefer his pastel seasons, the
accusing desperation of the Slav Epic (his incomplete and
huge magnum opus of which there are strangel y no photos),
or modern prints on everything from coasters to mousepads.
Dont miss the short biographical film. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Admission 120K.
Museum of Communism F-4, Praha 1, Na Pkop 10,
tel. (+420) 224 21 29 66, www.muzeumkomunismu.cz.
The posters featuring the workers of the state, featuring a
mix of socialist-realism which produces simul taneous hilarity
and dark brooding, are almost worth the entrance fee on
their own. Errant and erratic household objects can gi ve
this place an incomplete feel, however, the photos and
historical information on display are a minimalist introduc-
tion to the events of this period. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Admission 180K.
Muzeum Karl ova Mostu (Charl es Bri dge
Museum) D- 3, Praha 1, K ovni ck nm. 3,
muzeumkarlovamostu.cz. This new museum, opened
to coincide wi th the 650th anni versar y of the building
of Charles Bridge in 1357 (the clever number logo is no
coincidence, 135797531. The first stone was laid at
05:31 on 9 Jul y). English texts are available to explain the
unique Knights of the Red Cross hospi tal location, their
church and crypt, various bridges; an arch and pillar of the
even older (1158 - 1172) Judi t Bridge, and others in the
region, construction techniques, etc. Charles Bridge, wi th
i ts statues and history, is the focus but there is so much
more. Fascinating. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. 150/70K.
Pragues Jewish community was one of the oldest in
Europe, and rich in history, legend and tragedy. Here, the
story goes, Rabbi Loew created the Golem nearly half a
millennium ago.
The community was confined to a ghetto until 1781
when Josef II issued the Edict of Tolerance, which per-
mitted the free exercise of religion and the secularisation
of education, science and art. The Jewish town is called
Josefov to this day in his honour.
From the 1880s, in the name of slum-clearing, most
of Josefov was razed to the ground and only a few
synagogues, the cemetery and the Josefov town hall
remained. Wide new streets with grand Art Nouveau
buildings emerged in place of the decrepit old tenement
buildings.
Later still, the Nazis all but annihilated Pragues Jewish
legacy, saving the monuments as their planned epitaph
to a vanished culture. The post-war communists did little
to alleviate the persecution - many of the remaining Jew-
ish inhabitants chose to emigrate.
Jewish Museum (idovsk muzeum) E-2, Praha
1, U Star koly 1, tel. 221 71 15 62, www.jewishmu-
seum.cz. The starting point for an exploration of Pragues
Jewish past and present. Unfortunatel y, the idea for a
museum encompassing the Jewish Quarter is not new.
The reason that the main buildings and cemetery in the
Jewish Quarter are still intact, is that Hi tler intended to
transform the quarter into an epitaph to a vanished cul ture.
The Jewish Museum supervises the Old Jewish Cemetery,
the Old Ceremonial Hall, and the Pinkas, Klausen, Maisel
and Spanish Synagogues, but not the Old New Synagogue,
al though you can buy a combined ticket for entry to all. The
high admission price causes many budget-conscious visi-
tors turn away at the gates, but despite this, youll need to
go early to avoid the crowds. QOpen 09:00 - 16:30. Closed
Sat. Admission 300/200K for all sights.
Klausen Synagogue (Klausenov synagoga) D-2,
Praha 1, U Starho hbitova 3A. A Judaic Baroque build-
ing which houses a permanent exhibition showing Jewish
customs and traditions - and the occasional art exhibition.
Next door is the Ceremonial Hall.
Maisel Synagogue (Maiselova synagoga) E-2, Praha
1, Maiselova 10. Maisel Synagogue is home to a large collec-
tion of silverware, previously confiscated from Jewish families
by the Nazis. Their permanent exhibition, The History of Jews
in Bohemia and Moravia, is definitely worth a visit.
Pinkas Synagogue (Pinkasova synagoga) D-2,
Praha 1, irok 3. The walls inside Pinkas Synagogue
are chillingl y covered wi th the names of 77,297 Jewish
Holocaust victims from Bohemia and Moravia. There is also
a permanent exhibition of childrens drawings from Terezin
concentration camp, drawn between 1942 and 1944.
Old Jewish Cemetery (Star idovsk hbitov)
D-2, Praha 1, irok 2, (entrance from Pinkas Syna-
gogue). From the 14th century until 1747, this was the final
resting place for Pragues Jewish community; some 12,000
graves are said to be piled one on top of the other. Oldest
and most famous is that of Rabbi Loew, which is the grave
with the most pebbles piled on top of it - a Jewish tradition.
To visit the cemetery, men will have to cover their heads;
kippas are provided at the entrance.
Spanish Synagogue (panlsk synagoga) E-2,
Praha 1, Dun 12. This neo-Moorish structure was
buil t in 1868 to replace the previousl y demolished Old
Synagogue. It is a beautiful building outside and in, with a
domed ceiling, Islamic motifs and stained glass. Restored
in 1998, the synagogue houses an exhibition on the history
of Czech Jews.
Old New Synagogue (Staronov synagoga) E-2,
Praha 1, erven 2. Of all the synagogues in Prague, this
is perhaps the most important. It has stood here since
the 13th century, and despite fires, floods and the Nazi
occupation, remains today the functional, spiritual centre
of the Jewish community. QOpen 09:00 - 16:30, Fri 09:00
- 14:00. Closed Sat. Admission 200K.
High Synagogue (Vysok synagoga) E-2, Praha 1,
erven 4. The High Synagogue is no longer open to the
public. It is next to the Old New Synagogue - note the clock
on the faade of the pink building next door; it has Hebrew
numbers and turns counter-clockwise.
New Jewish Cemetery (idovsk hbitovy) Praha
3, Vinohradsk, Melivskho, tel. 272 74 18 93. Much
larger and much less visited than the Old Town Cemetery.
Founded in 1890, it has some impressive graves from the
earl y 1900s. Franz Kafka is buried at grave N137.
ikov Jewish Ceme-
tery Prague 3, Fibichova.
Onl y a peaceful small corner
remains of this Jewish cem-
etary at the foot of the TV
tower. Ori ginall y a plague
cemetary established well
away from the city limits in
1680, 40,000 people were
buried here until 1890. Baroque, Empire and Romantic
style tombstones survived the ages. Q Open Tue & Thu
09:00 - 13:00. Admission 20K.
Jubilee Synagogue (Jubilejn synagoga) I-4,
Praha 1, Jeruzalmsk 1310/7, tel. 222 31 90 02.
The newest, bi ggest, and arguabl y most spectacular
of Pragues synagogues, the Jubil ee Synagogue i s so
call ed because i t was decided upon on the 50th an-
ni versar y of the accessi on of Franz Joseph I. Buil t in
pseudo-Moorish styl e and dedi cated on 16 Sept 1906
during the festi val of Simhat Torah, the synagogue
has a ser vi ce on Sat at 09:00 and i s open to vi si-
tors from 23 Apr - 31 Oct from 13:00 - 17:00 (except
Saturdays).
Pragues Schindler Three trainl oads of Jewi sh
children were abl e to escape from German-occupi ed
Prague in the spring and summer of 1939, before war
broke out, thanks to the effor ts of the man dubbed
(post-Spi elberg, of course) the Schindl er of Prague. Bill
Barazetti, together wi th a Bri tish stockbroker, arranged
papers and transpor t for three trainl oads of children -
the Kinder transpor te - to l eave the ci ty and travel via
the Netherlands to safety in London. A four th train l eft
Prague on the eve of the war but i t never reached the
Netherlands and was not heard of again. In August 1939
Barazetti fl ed to Bri tain, but i t was 50 years before his
stor y became known.
Jewish Prague
70
WHAT TO SEE
71
WHAT TO SEE
National Museum (Nrodn muzeum) F-4, Praha
1, Vclavsk nm. 68, tel. (+420) 224 49 71 11,
www.nm.cz. Permanent exhibitions include pre-historical,
mineralogical, palaeontological, zoological, and there is a
good collection of bronze statues of famous Czechs is in the
pantheon of the building. One of the most celebrated build-
ings in Prague, but its exhibits are not nearl y as impressive.
QOpen 9:00 - 17:00, Wed 9:00 - 20:00. Closed every first
Tue of the month. Admission 150/100K.
Robert Guttmann Gallery (Jewish Museum) E-2,
Praha 1, U Star koly 3, MStaromstsk, tel. (+420)
221 71 15 11, www.jewishmuseum.cz. As synagogues
and prayer rooms began to be demolished by Pragues mu-
nicipal offices at the end of the 19th century, the Czech-Jewish
community applied their vigour to creating a Jewish Museum
wherein ritual objects could be saved from destruction and
kept for future generations. Thus, in 1906 Pragues Jewish
Museum began with a modest collection. Today, it is celebrat-
ing its centenary with an exhibit here entitled Defying the
Beast (until 1 Oct). The museum is closed on Jewish holidays
too. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. Admission 40/20K.
Rudolf inum D-2, Praha
1, Al ov o nb . 12,
MStaromtsk, tel. (+420)
227 05 92 05, www.gal-
erierudolfinum.cz. Commis-
sioned as concert halls and
exhibi tion space and named
after the Austrian Prince Royal
who attended the opening in 1885, this is now home to
the Czech Philharmonic and an exhibi tion space. Wi th no
permanent collection, the gallery is dedicated to temporary
exhibitions. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30, Thu 10:00 - 19:30. Closed
Mon. Admission 120/60K. U
Smetana Museum C-3, Praha 1, Novotnho lvka
1, tel. (+420) 222 22 00 82, www.nm.cz. Classical ap-
preciation goes high tech. When you point the special laser
conductors baton at music stands in this museum, excerpts
from Smetanas works come to life. Bedich Smetana was a
Czech symphonic poet, whose masterpiece was the nation-
alistic My Fatherland, which includes a musical ode to the
Vl tava. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00&12:30-17:00. Closed Tue.
Admission 50/20K.
Stone Bell House (Dm u kammennho zvonu)
E-3, Praha 1, Staromtsk nm. 13, MStaromtsk,
tel. (+420) 222 32 76 77, www.citygalleryprague.
cz. The oldest Gothic house in Prague, hidden for years
behind a neo-Baroque facade, has been superbl y restored
and now houses commendable art exhibi tions run by the
Ci ty Gallery of Prague. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 120/60K.
The Chemistry Gallery K-5, Praha 2, U Kanlky 4,
MJiho z Podbrad, tel. (+420) 773 58 80 75, info@
thechemistry.cz, www.thechemistry.cz. A funky recon-
verted flat is home to a cool new gallery. See art, buy art,
The Chemistry Gallery is dedicated to promoting young
contemporary artists of all genres. An ambi tious rotating
schedule of events means the work is al ways fresh and
creati ve. QOpen , Wed, Thu, Fri 13:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
Torture Museum B-2, Praha 1, Mosteck 21, tel.
(+420) 603 88 93 61. Medieval torture instruments from
all parts of Europe. Take the kids to show them how nice you
actuall y are. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 120/100K.
Transport Museum Praha 6, Patokova 4, MHradcan-
sk, tel. (+420) 296 12 49 00, www.dpp.cz/muzeum-
mhd. See beautifull y restored classic trams and buses from
the glory days of Prague trolleys in this converted depot. Read
the history and see the uniforms, old advertising hoardings,
maps and photographs. The historical tram (N91, hourl y
from 12:00 - 18:00) leaves from here on a journey past the
castle and Vclavsk nmsti. Q Open Sat, Sun and public
holidays onl y 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 35/20.
Tr oj a Chateau Praha
1, U trojskho zmku 1,
MNdr a Hol eovi ce,
tel. (+420) 283 85 16 14,
www.citygalleryprague.cz.
A grand 17th century summer
palace buil t for Count Vclav
Voj tch ternberg, Troja has
French gardens li ttered wi th
Baroque sculptures right on the river below the Botanical
gardens and next to the Zoo. It was originall y situated here to
be opposite Stromovka royal game preserve (now Stromovka
Park), which it is linked to today by a pedestrian bridge, but
be warned it is no short walk to the closest tram stop once
you start. Jean-Baptiste Mathey designed the palace, which
ternberg spared no expense on. Its most striking feature
is the external double staircase ornamented by statues of
Ti tanic struggles wi th Ol ympian gods. The interior is no
less impressive with magnificent vaul ted ceilings, paintings,
sculptures, murals and frescoes - especiall y the giant, florid
tribute to a Hapsburg victory in the Grand Hall. After major
reconstruction of the house and garden in 1998, the Chateau
became an annex of the City Gallery, housing a collection of
Baroque glass and a collection of 19th century Czech paint-
ings. Troja was hard hit in the 2002 floods, but the gardens
and house are back in their former glory. From the metro,
hop on tram 5, 17, 25 to Trojsk or bus 112 to the Zoo.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 120/60K,
gardens free.
Veletrn Palace (National Gallery) I-1, Praha 7,
Dukelskch hrdin 47, MVltavsk, tel. (+420) 224 30
11 11, www.ngprague.cz. The stunning modernist Veletrn
Palace houses the National Gallerys collection of modern and
contemporary art, including works by Klimt and Frank Gehry.
The building is so big that they split entrance fees by how
many of its three floors you wish to visit. Tram N5,12,17 to
Veletrn. The space also hosts concerts now. QOpen 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 160/80.
City tours
Best Tour Praha 7, U Uranie 17, tel. (+420) 284
81 41 41, www.besttour.cz. Their basic two-hour bus
tour of the ci ty costs 350K/person and leaves dail y at
10:00, 14:00 and 16:00 from F-4, Vclavsk nm. 27. Q
24 hours. A
Cityrama Prague I-5, Praha 1, tpnsk 21, tel.
(+420) 222 23 02 08, 602 218 469, fax (+420) 222
23 24 29, office@cityrama.cz, www.cityrama.cz. Explore
the Golden Heart of Europe with various sightseeing tours in
Prague and beyond. The City Tour (dail y 09:30 and 14:00)
joins boat tours, night explorations, excursions around the
country and the region. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun
08:00 - 14:00. A
Martin Tour I-5, Praha 1, tpnsk 61, tel. (+420) 224
21 24 73, fax (+420) 224 23 97 52, www.martintour.
cz. Their short city bus tour starts at 250K per person.
Prague Sightseeing Tours I-3, Praha 1, Klimentsk
52, tel. (+420) 222 31 46 61/(+420) 602 37 55 52, fax
(+420) 222 31 80 17, www.pstours.cz. City tours, boat
trips and excursions. Q A
Precious Legacy Tours D-2, Praha 1, Kaprova 13,
tel./fax (+420) 222 32 19 54, www.legacytours.cz.
Besides doing the run-of-the-mill city tours this company also
organises an extensive array of Jewish history and cul ture
tours in Prague and throughout Eastern Europe.
Premiant City Tour H-4, Praha 1, Nekzanka 11, tel.
(+420) 224 01 28 20, www.premiant.cz. A variety of
tours for a variety of tourists, there are combination bus and
walking tours, brief tours, in-depth tours, the rest of the Czech
Republic tours and many more. The cheapest is Brief Prague
at 250K. Q A
Curiosities
Dancing Fountains (Kikova Fontna) Praha 7,
Prmyslov palc (Vstavit), tel. (+420) 220 10 32
80, www.krizikovafontana.cz. Water and lights accom-
panied by music (from Carmina Burana to Queen) and on
occasion, people. This is actuall y far more enthralling than
it sounds - reall y.
Lennon Wal l B- 3, Pr aha 1, Mal St r ana,
Velkopevosk nm.. Opposi te the French embassy is
the Lennon Wall. During the communist era i t was here
that revoluti onari es daubed anti-government sl ogans
thereby running the risk of arrest. Today the wall is cov-
ered wi th graffi ti - poems and words of peace wri tten by
milli ons of visi tors from around the world. Not reall y what
i t used to be; but peopl e still visi t.
Victims of Communism Memorial A-4, jezd
tram stop. Near the funi cular rail way stati on and op-
posi te the j ezd tram stop, there i s a controversial
memori al to the vi cti ms of communi sm. A group of
statues by Olbram Zoubek emerge into totali ty as they
walk, or are at vari ous stages of destructi on, depending
how you l ook at i t. Why are they controversial? Other
ar ti sts say they are ki tschy, whil e femini sts are angr y
because all the fi gures are mal e and they (qui te ri ghtl y)
claim women were persecuted under the communi sts
regime too. The memorial was damaged by two bomb
attacks in late 2003.
Villa Mller Praha 6, Nad Hradnm vodojemem 14,
tel. (+420) 224 31 20 12, www.mullerovavila.cz. This
icon of modern archi tecture was designed by Moravian-
born Adol f Loos for construction magnate Frantiek Ml-
l er in 1930. The building l ooks like a solid whi te bl ock
from the outside, though the interior is constructed wi th
marble, mahogany and walnut, highl y polished and cleanl y
designed. The rooms all si t at various levels around an
ascending sweeping spiral. Tram N1,18 to Oechovka.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Fri. Admission
300/200K, 100K extra for an English guide. Tours by
appointment onl y.
Junior Prague
Adventure Playground J-4, Praha 1, Vrchlickho sady,
Opletalova, MHlavn ndra. The area near Prague's
main rail way station is slowl y being reclaimed from nefarious
characters with designer hotels and this superb enclosed
kids' playground with activites for kids big and small. QOpen
08:00 - 19:00.
AquaPalace Aqua Park Prask 138, tel. (+420) 271
10 41 11, info@aquapalace.cz, www.aquapalace.cz. When
one more museum will just about do them in; treat the kids to
a watery side of Prague. No, we don't mean toss them in the
Vltava, but bring them to AquaPalace Aqua Park. Pools, slides,
wave pool, whirlpool and a river, plus a variety of saunas and a
fitness centre for the adults. Plan on spending the day. Take bus
324, 325, 328, 363 or 385 from the Opatov metro station to
the estlice stop. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Prices vary depending
on the day of the week and the time of day, For two hours on a
Saturday it's 300K for an adult and 200K for a child.
Mirror Labyrinth (Zrcadlov bludit) A-4, Praha 1,
Petnsk sady, tel. (+420) 257 31 52 12. Right next to
the Petn Tower is a hall of mirrors - you may even get your
kids to come in if the ice cream vendors haven't caught their
eye first. March into the mini-castle to see how you would
look if you were short and squat or tall and skinny. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00. Admission 50 - 70K.
Planetarium Praha 7, Krlovsk obora 233, MNdra
Holeovice, tel. (+420) 220 99 90 01, www.planetarium.
cz. Prague's planetarium, opened in 1960, is the largest in
the Czech Republic and one of the largest in the world. Its
astronomical dome can accommodate 250 people and it
houses three projectors in one building. Go to see shows of
the stars (the astronomical kind) as well as the permanent
exhibition. Q Admission 50 - 150K.
Seaworld Praha 7, Vstavit, MHoleovice, tel.
(+420) 220 10 33 05, www.morsky-svet.cz. A loop audio
tape of tidal wash envelops Prague's little known aquarium,
Mosk Svt. The suspended manta ray may be huge, but
the tanks are small al though well stocked with tropical and
fresh water fish. One tank has, we presume in honour of
Finding Nemo, clown fish and a tang. Deadl y but beautiful
scorpion and turkey fish languish looking like full y sailed gal-
leons, and soft corals billow in the current. It's not huge, but
makes an interesting detour. Signs are Czech onl y. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00. 190/150K.
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WHAT TO SEE
73
WHAT TO SEE
Toy Museum (Museum hraek) B-1, Praha 1, Jisk
6, tel. (+420) 224 37 22 94, www.muzeumhracek.
cz. The unfortunate thing about most toy museums is
that children tend not to enjoy them. For the most part, the
experience is too frustrating because all the cool toys are
kept just out of reach by a pane of glass. However, all is not
lost; the second floor has switches at children's level which
make the displays of stuffed animals jostle about. QOpen
09:30 - 17:30. Admission 20 - 40K.
Landmarks
Funicular Railway A-4,
jezd tram stop. The fu-
ni cular runs up Petin Hill
providing beautiful views of
Prague and the castle. There
are two restaurants sitting at
the half-way point - there is
a station there. Use regular
20K tickets. Trams run at
15 min intervals. QOpen 09:00 - 11:20.
Gestapo HQ I-4, Praha 1, Politickch vzn 20. This
sombre black building is now the headquarters of the Czech
Trade Office, but between 1939-1945 this was the most
feared buildings in the ci ty. Jews and Czechs alike were
brought here and interrogated. In one particular incident on
Nov 24, 1939 the Gestapo executed 120 students accused
of anti-Nazi plotting. Their deaths are commemorated by a
small statue on the corner of the building.
Klementinum D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 1, tel. (+420) 222
22 08 79, www.klementinum.com. The Klementinum
offers a little something for everyone: Beautiful views from
the astronomical tower; Baroque architecture in the library
hall and classical musical concerts in the Mirror Chapel. The
building dates back to 1232 and currently houses the National
Library, as well as 12 hard to find sundials. Guided tours are
held dail y. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Nmst M r u J- 5/6,
MNm. Mru. In Czech this
means Peace Square and it is
dominated by a soaring two-
tower basilica, the neo-gothic
Saint Ludmila Church (Kostel sv.
Ludmily). This beautiful church
was constructed from 1888 to
1893 and bears the creati ve
power of many renowned artists,
including sculptor Josef Vclav
Myslbek, who also fashioned the
statue of St. Wenceslas. Ludmila
(860 - 921) was born in Mlnk
and baptised, probably by St. Methodius, in 871. After her
husband died their son assumed the throne and had two sons
with his pagan wife Drahomra; Boleslav and Wenceslas, the
latter later to become the patron saint of the Czech Republic.
Ludmila was strangled at the hand or the behest of Drahomra
who resented her meddling with the budding Christian, Wenc-
eslas. She is celebrated on 16 September and is patron to,
among others, converts, widows and those with problematic
in-laws Nmst Mru (green line A) is the deepest of Prague's
metro stations and as such has one of the longest escalators in
Europe - 87m long with a vertical span of 43m - without walking,
it takes over 2 minutes to ascend/descend. The park hosts
many festivals including the late September burk festival and
the Christmas market. The square has an almost starring role
in the 2006 remake of cult horror classic, The Omen.
National Memorial (Nrodn pamtnk) K-3, Praha
3, Na Vrchu ikov. One of the largest equestrian statues
in the world dominates the hill overlooking the north eastern
district of ikov. The 16.5 ton statue commemorates the
Hussite hero, Jan ika. Behind the statue is the national
mausoleum, buil t originall y as a memorial to World War I
Czechoslovak legions, and then taken over as the resting
place for the great and the not very good Communists. The
first working class president, Klement Gottwald, was pickled
in slivovice and put on display here. Unfortunatel y the pres-
ervation was not wholl y successful and the body started to
putrefy from the feet up, shocking the odd visiting school
party as their national hero literally started to fall apart before
their very eyes. His body was returned to his famil y in 1990
and later buried in the cemetery in Olansk.
Petn Tower (Petnsk ro-
zhledna) A-4, MPetin funicular,
tel. (+420) 257 32 01 12. At the
top of Petin Hill stands a 60m-high
bad copy of the Eiffel Tower, affording
great views of the city. The building
was completed in May 20, 1891.
An alternative route to the castle is
to ride the funky funicular up Petn
Hill and walk pass the tower across
to the castle area. QOpen 10:00
- 19:00. Open Sat & Sun 10:00 -
17:00. Admission 50/40/10K.
The Dancing House (Tanc dm) G-5, Praha 2,
Ranovo nb. 80. Frank Gehry's design for this building
was inspired by the dancing team Ginger Rogers and Fred
Astaire. Buil t in 1996, this structure more than cuts a swathe
among the Austrian-Hungarian terrace blocks that make up
most of Prague.
TV Tower K-4, Praha 3,
Mahlerovy sady 1, MJiho
z Podbrad, tel. (+420) 267
00 57 78, fax (+420) 222
72 40 14, www.tower.cz.
This huge sil ver tower wi th
funny-looking boxes attached
to it was buil t between 1985
and 1992. Swift lifts whisk you
to a fantastic panorama of the
city, then descend a few floors
to dine whilst contemplating
the intricacies of vertigo. The
scary black babies crawling
all over the tower are an art
installation by David erny that became permanent. And
now the tower is lit up in rather fetching hues of pink and
purple. Try and miss it now... QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. Admis-
sion 150/120K.
Parks & Gardens
Botanical Gardens (Botanick zahrada) Praha
7, Ndvorn 134, MNdra Holeovice, tel. (+420)
234 14 81 11, www.botgarden.cz. An outdoor section
wi th vineyard, chapel, bonsai, a Japanese Zen garden,
greenhouses and wonder ful vi ews of the ci ty. A li ttl e
fur ther up the hi l l i s the Fata Morgana greenhouse
exhi bi ting deser t, hi gh si erra and tropi cal plants in a
reali sti c setting. Residents include butter fli es, moths,
frogs and greener y gal ore. Bus N112 from the metro
stati on. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Fata Morgana cl osed
Mon. Admi ssi on 120/60K.
Kampa Park G-4, Kampa Island. Featuring a well-equipped
children's playground, Kampa Park is caressed by water
on all sides thanks to the millstream known as the Devil's
Stream. The park is notable for its serenity in the midst of
the centre, and is popular with couples, the local and expat
hippy population, as well as families enjoying the playground.
You can also feed the ducks or visit one of the cafs. QOpen
09:00 - 20:00.
Letn, MHradansk. Massive park high atop the Vl tava
and pinpointed by the often-static metronome where once
a massive statue of Joe Stalin stood. Biking/skating paths
galore, skateboarders, playing fields, tennis courts, kids
playground, beer garden and more. Fabulous outdoor spot.
Ostrov tvanice J-2, Praha 7. The largest island in the
Prague stretch of the Vl tava is occupied by the oldest ice
hockey stadium in Prague, a tennis stadium, a skate park
and has outdoor film screenings in the summer.
Petn A-3/4. With stunning views of the city and a choice
of gardens and trails to explore, Petn is packed with activites
or lazing opportunities. Features include the tower, a mirror
hall, an 18th century Ukrainian wooden church and Prague's
lovers enjoying ... ah, the view.
Troja Chateau Praha 7, U trojskho zmku 1, MNdra
Holeovice, tel. (+420) 283 85 16 14, www.citygal-
leryprague.cz. A grand 17th century summer palace buil t
for Count Vclav Voj tch ternberg, Troja has French gardens
littered with Baroque sculptures right on the river below the
Botanical gardens and next to the Zoo. It was originally situat-
ed here to be opposite Stromovka royal game preserve (now
Stromovka Park), which it is linked to today by a pedestrian
bridge, but be warned it is no short walk. Admission 120/60K
for the gallery inside, gardens free. From the metro, hop on
tram 5, 17, 25 to Trojsk. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Valdtejnsk zahrada
B-1/2, MMalostransk.
The Wall enstein Gardens
may have a lot of rules, but
the lack of human and canine
detritus adds to their beauty.
Famous for the peacocks,
the cavern-like foll y (l ook
for phalli c and serpentine
motifs) and the biggest fish we've seen in a while - ducklings
often have to make a sharp exit to avoid being nibbled. An
owlery, beautiful frescoes and benches galore for whiling away
sunny afternoons. Look for the secret entrance next to the
metro exit.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. G
Zoo Praha Praha 7, U Trojskho zmku 3, MNdra
Holeovice, tel. (+420) 296 11 21 11, www.zoopraha.
cz. Zoo Praha is a reall y cool zoo. Following the floods of
2002 (in which there was an unfortunate loss of animal life
that was broadcast round the world) many improvements
to infrastructure and the animal's homes have been made.
Big ones, like elephants, lions and tigers can be spotted,
but don't miss the gorillas, penguins, kangaroos, giraffes,
parrots, wol ves and hyenas. Recent additions have included
an Indonesian Jungle and the just opened (04/2008) pavilion
for a group of rare Indian crocodiles. Seven young Gavil crocs
are now at home here - the onl y European zoo to house this
criticall y endangered specie. Zoo officials hope they'll settle
in nicel y and reproduce. That's another special aspect of
the Zoo Praha - their conservation efforts. The facility was
instrumental in preventing the extinction of Przewalski horses
in the 60's and hopes to have similar success wi th the
Gavils. Additional highlights include the Gorilla Pavilion and
African Jungle. Definitel y the place to come to if you have
little ones in tow - there's an excellent petting zoo and kids
play area. A train ride through the zoo, a chair lift ride above
the zoo or wagon-like vehicles for the kids are available for
tired tootsies. Shaded, well-laid out paths make this a good
visit, even on warm days.
The zoo opened in 1931 and today spreads over 60 hectares
and is home to nearl y 5,000 animals. Concession stands
shockingly don't jack up the prices, so an entire day can easily
be spent here. Take bus N112 from metro station Ndra
Holeovice or even stretch your legs further and walk across
the Vl tava Ri ver via the footbridge from Stromovka park.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. March 09:00-17:00, Apr, May, Sep, Oct
- 09:00-18:00, Jun, Jul, Aug- 09:00-19:00, Nov, Dec, Jan, Feb -
09:00-16:00 Admission 150/100K. TA6ULBKC
Walking & Bike Tours
City Walks, tel. (+420) 608 20 09 12/(+420) 222 24
45 31, www.praguer.com. For 450K you can take the
four hour Insider Tour of the ci ty including Staromstsk,
Nov Msto, Josefov, Mal Strana and Prague Castle. The
tour also provides complimentary refreshments and a ride
on the funicular. Tours begin dail y at the statue at the top of
Vclavsk nm. at 09:45 and 13:30.
Daily Walks J-3, Praha 1, Na Florenci 20, tel. (+420)
281 91 76 42/(+420) 603 15 70 01, www.walks.cz.
These cool cats will walk you around town for 300 - 1,000K,
less if you are a student, and introduce you to various aspects
of Prague. The meeting point is in front of the Astronomical
Clock at the blue umbrella.
Prague Travel Praha 2, Vinohradsk 28, tel. (+420)
222 51 60 64/(+420) 777 07 07 84, fax (+420) 222 52
05 73, www.praguetravel.cz. Several themed umbrella-led
walks starting at the Astronomical clock at various times; just
look for the orange umbrella. Go for a short tour of the city
centre or on the 6-hour megawalk. Prices from 200 - 1,000K.
Real Tour I-5, tel. (+420) 602 45 94 81, www.walking-
toursprague.com. Englishman Paul and Czech Michal do the
four-hour, 300K Real Tour of Prague starting at 12:30 at the
horse statue at the top of Vclavsk nm. The walk includes a
break at a pub and ends at the castle. Pick-ups at 12:00 from
the Traveller's Hostel on Dlouh and the Clown and Bard. Walks
on Mon, Wed, Thu & Sat only. NB, no tours from 20 - 31 Oct.
74
SHOPPING
75
BUSINESS DIRECTORY
Crystal, unique art and beautifully made wooden toys
and objects are the true Prague souvenirs, but the tacky
T-shirt trade is one of the most lucrative. The totally
cheesy Czech Me Out T-shirts and communist slogans
tend to hide a few quality items, such as Mucha, Kafka
and others. Competition, even on Charles Bridge, means
prices are fairly even, but the more tourist areas tend to
have higher prices.
Books
Anagram F-2, Praha 1, Tn 4, tel. (+420) 224 89 57
37, www.anagram.cz. The owner personall y selects all
the stock at this excellent bookshop, and he will order any
book you need. I t also has second-hand books. QOpen
10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Also at J-5, Praha 2, Anny
Letensk 18.
Big Ben F-2, Praha 1, Mal tupartsk 5, tel. (+420)
224 82 65 65, fax (+420) 224 82 65 59, www.bigben-
bookshop.com. English-language books onl y are sold here,
wi th standard guides on Prague, plus several shel ves of
bestsellers, childrens books, fiction, non-fiction and travel
books. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A
Globe H-5, Praha 1, Ptrossova 6, tel. (+420) 224 93 42
03, www.globebookstore.cz. English books, second-hand
books, and magazines, internet access, caf and restaurant.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. A
Palc Knih Luxor F-4, Praha 1, Vclavsk nm. 41,
tel. (+420) 221 11 13 64, www.neoluxor.cz. Large shop
with a good selection of foreign-language books downstairs.
The 28. jna 7 shop has a good collection of translations
from Czech upstairs. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -
19:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Also at (E-4) 28. jna 7 and (F-3)
Celetn 34. A
Shakespeare & Sons Praha 10, Krymska 12, MNm.
Mru, tel. (+420) 271 74 08 39, www.shakes.cz. Thou-
sands of handpicked new and used English titles, earnest
poetry and prose readings and performance, newspapers,
chess and backgammon plus caf. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
Also at Praha 1, U Luzickeho seminare 10. Tel. 257 53 18 94.
Open 11:00 - 21:00.
Department stores
Debenhams F-4, Praha 1, Vclavsk nm. 21, tel.
(+420) 221 01 50 57, www.debenhams.cz. The English
department store has made i ts mark. QOpen 09:00 -
20:00. A
Kotva F-2, Praha 1, nm. Republiky 8, tel. (+420) 224
80 11 11, www.od-kotva.cz. A variety of well-priced shops
and services, and a special area for children, all in the ugliest
building in central Prague. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 -
19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. AL
Marks & Spencer Vclavsk nm. 36, MMuzeum,
tel. (+420) 224 237 503, marksandspencer.com. One
of the UK's most well-known stores. It's all here: the clothes;
the food; the housewares. QOpen 9:30 - 20:30, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 20:00. A
Tesco D-4, Praha 1, Nrodn 26, MNrodn tda, tel.
(+420) 222 00 31 11, www.tesco-shop.cz. Britain's best
store with a supermarket in the basement. Delivery service is
also available, check the website for details. QOpen 08:00
- 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Supermarket
open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. A
Glass
Artl Praha 1, Celetn 29, MStaromstsk nm., tel.
(+420) 271 73 21 61, www.artelglass.com. A welcome
addition to Prague's glass scene, which can be a bit on the
tacky side. The proprietor has a fun shopping sense and you
never know what you may find, be it books, jewelry or other
Bohemian treasures. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A
Arzenal D-2, Praha 1, Valentinsk 11, tel. (+420) 224
81 40 99, www.arzenal.cz. Glass from Boris pek, the
leading Czech architect and designer. The shop is also a Thai
restaurant, Arzenal, which is strange, but somehow pleasing.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. A
Cristallino F-3, Praha 1, Celetn 12, tel. (+420) 224 22
51 73, www.cristallino.cz. Prague's largest assortment of
Bohemia crystal, glass, porcelan and jewellery in a range of
designs from classic patterns to modern glassware from top
Czech designers. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. A
Moser F-3, Praha 1, Na Pkop 12, tel. (+420) 224 21
12 93, www.moser-glass.com. Moser is the oldest Czech
glass manufacturer and it's been in operation since 1857.
QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Also at E-3,
Praha 1, Mal nm. 2, tel. 221 61 15 20. Open 10:00 - 20:00.
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. A
Rott Regena Crystal E-3, Praha 1, Mal nm. 3, tel.
(+420) 224 22 95 29. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. A
Shopping centres
ern re F-3, Praha 1, Na Pkop 12, MMstek, tel.
(+420) 221 01 41 11, www.cernaruze.cz. All the right
shops and some fine extras in this larger-than-i t-appears
centre. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun
11:00 - 19:00.
Nov Smchov Praha 5, Plzesk 8, MAndl, tel.
(+420) 257 28 41 11, info@novysmichovoc.cz. Home
to Carrefour and more. The games arcade is fabulous and
Palace Cinemas are on the top floor. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Palc Flra Praha 3, Vinohradsk 151, MFlra, tel.
(+420) 255 74 17 00, www.palacflora.cz. New and
very chic shopping centre, with over 120 shops, as well as
restaurants, cafs, a cinema mul tiplex and an IMAX theatre.
All in the centre of Prague. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
Palladium nm. Republicky 1, Mnm. Republicky, tel.
(+420) 225 770 250, www.palladiumpraha.cz. Prague's
newest and brightest mall. What used to be an army bar-
racks is now home to a huge variety of shops. A gourmet
floor and lots of restaurants means you could easil y lose a
day amidst the 5 floors of climate-controlled amusement.
QOpen 7:00 - 22:00.
Slovansk Dm F-3, Praha 1, Na Pkop 22, MNm.
Republiky, tel. (+420) 221 45 14 00, www.slovansky-
dum.cz. High end retail shops, a mul tiplex cinema and Kogo
restaurant attract the right people at this central shopping
centre. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
Speciality shops
de.facto E-4, Praha 1, Perlov 6, MMstek, tel. (+420)
224 23 38 15, www.defakto.cz. Beauti full y designed
objets, furni ture, gi fts, ki tchenware, soft furnishings and
oddities at this excellent shop which has a tinge of the Ikea
style and more but without the schlep out to Zliin. QOpen
09:00 - 20:00.
Naoko I-3, Praha 1, Revolun 24, MNm. Republiky,
tel. (+420) 222 31 25 67, www.naoko.cz. Excellent
selection of design products that you may not reall y need,
but which look fantastic. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00
- 15:00. Closed Sun.
Qubus F-2, Praha 1, Rmov 3, MNm. Republiky, tel.
(+420) 222 31 31 51, www.qubus.cz. Fabulous design
shop off Dlouh selling hip goods from bizarre clocks to
ceramic Wellington boots as vases. They are also the Czech
distributor of funky-ass Lomo cameras. QOpen 10:00 -
19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Banks
Citibank E-4, Praha 1, 28. jna 11, tel. (+420) 233 06
32 32, www.citibank.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Wed, Fri
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
SOB eskoslovensk obchodn banka F-3, Praha
1, Na Pkop 18, tel. (+420) 261 35 67 11, info@csob.
cz, www.csob.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
esk spoitelna F-4, Praha 1, Vclavsk nm. 26, tel.
(+420) 224 42 26 86/(+420) 800 20 72 07, fax (+420)
224 23 93 28, www.csas.cz. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00, Fri
08:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
GE Capital Bank Praha 4, Vyskoilova 1422/1a, tel.
(+420) 224 44 36 36/(+420) 800 10 30 60, www.gecb.
cz. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
KB Komern banka F-3, Praha 1, Na Pkop 33, tel.
(+420) 222 43 21 11, www.kb.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Raiffeisenbank I-4, Praha 1, Vodikova 38, tel. (+420) 221
14 12 61, www.rb.cz. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Chambers of commerce
American Chamber of Commerce E-1, Praha 1, Dun
10, tel. (+420) 222 32 94 30, fax (+420) 222 32 94 33,
amcham@amcham.cz, www.amcham.cz. QOpen 09:00
- 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
British Chamber of Commerce K-3, Praha 8, Poben
3, tel. (+420) 224 83 51 61, fax (+420) 224 83 51 62,
britcham@britcham.cz, www.britcham.cz. QOpen 09:00
- 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Czech - Belgian - Luxenbourg Joint Chamber of
Commerce F-3, Praha 2, Anglick 20, tel. (+420) 261
35 20 90/(+420) 261 35 21 08, fax (+420) 261 35 23
33, cblkomora@nextra.cz, www.cblchamber.cz. QOpen
09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Czech - Canadian Chamber of Commerce F-3, Praha
1, Klimentsk 46, tel./fax (+420) 225 00 03 45, info@
gocanada.cz, www.gocanada.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00,
Fri 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Czech - German Chamber of Commerce H-5, Praha
1, Vclavsk nm. 40, tel. (+420) 224 22 12 00, fax
(+420) 224 22 22 00, info@dtihk.cz, www.dtihk.cz.
QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Economic Chamber of the Czech Republic K-4,
Praha 9, Freyova 27, tel. (+420) 296 64 61 11, fax
(+420) 296 64 62 21, info@komora.cz, www.komora.
cz. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Real estate
AAA BYTY.CZ akciov spolenost Vclavsk nmst
62, MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 226 060 606/(+420) 774
333 010, info@aaabyty.cz, www.aaabyty.cz. AAABYTY.cz.
is a full service real estate company and can assist you with
buying, renting or selling a flat, house, office and even land.
They are experts with many additional resources in-house,
like help with securing financing and legal and tax assistance.
Plus, they have offices across the country so you will find them
especially helpful if you're not looking in Prague.
Atrium Real Estate I-6, Praha 2, Lpov 10, MKarlovo
nm., tel. (+420) 800 28 74 86/(+420) 777 00 55 66, info@
atriumrealestate.cz, www.atriumrealestate.cz. Residential
property, re-sale, new homes, rental and property management.
With a team of 15 multi-lingual employees. Weekend viewing by
appointment. QOpen 08:30 - 19:00, Fri 08:00 - 18:00.
European Reality E-4, Praha 8, Zirkon Office Centre,
Sokolovska, tel. (+420) 234 32 33 33, fax (+420) 222 50
78 91, www.europeanreality.com. European Reality is one
of the largest residential agencies in the Czech Republic with an
excellent team whose focus and energy is always placed on their
most valuable assets - the customers. An English real estate
company; their services include rentals, sales, construction,
room design and property management. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
King Sturge I-3, Praha 1, V celnici 10, MNm. Republiky,
tel. (+420) 221 03 30 44, fax (+420) 221 03 30 55, www.
kingsturge.com. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Foreign press & Websites
Czech Business Weekly E-3, Praha 1, Provaznick
13, tel. (+420) 234 07 13 70, fax (+420) 234 07 13 77,
cbw@cbw.cz, www.cbw.cz. Business weekl y, published
each Monday.
expats.cz, www.expats.cz. Pragues largest and ever-
growing online community, an invaluable resource for finding
any thing, any where at any time. Especiall y good for finding
a place to live, a job and people to drink with.
Fleet Sheet Praha 1, Soukenick 13, tel. (+420) 296
58 01 60, fax (+420) 224 22 15 80, info@fleet.cz, www.
fleet.cz. A rundown of the days major business and political
stories from the Czech press.
Prague Daily Monitor, www.praguemonitor.com. A
dail y summary with links to Czech news plus links to other
interesting cool sites.
provokator.org, www.provokator.org. Cool online and
print articles, events, listings and anarchism...
The New Presence D-4, Nrodn 11, MNrodn tda,
tel. (+420) 222 07 56 00, www.new-presence.cz. Czech
and European political and cultural affairs. Published quarterly.
The Prague Post I-5, Praha 1, tpnsk 20, tel.
(+420) 296 33 44 00/(+420) 296 33 44 09, fax (+420)
296 33 44 50, info@praguepost.cz, www.praguepost.
cz. Longest serving weekl y English language newspaper.
76
LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY
77
LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY
Nam Jai Thai Massage D-2, Kaprova 11, tel. (+420)
222 32 87 47, www.namjai.cz. Here youll get an authentic,
stretching, vertebrae popping session of traditional Wat Pho
massage. Back & Head, Foot and oil massages are also avail-
able. One hour Thai massage 700K. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Sabai Na Pkope 22, tel. (+420) 221 45 11 80, www.sabai.
cz. By far the smartest and most expensive of the Thai massage
options here, but is it worth it? Well, yes it is. Quiet and private
- even the foot massage rooms are individual. Excellent staff,
English spoken and relaxed ambience. Traditional Thai 990K for
one hour. Reservations recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Sawasdee Foot Massage Rytisk 19, tel. (+420)
224 22 61 05. From the tinkling fountain to the comfy
chairs and the characteristic menthol smell, this place looks
authentic but unfortunatel y the foot massage is not. Pain
and Porn are just two of the masseuses who might work on
you, but ours was Thai Massage Lite. We kept waiting for it
to kick in to no avail. 600K for a lacklustre Thai massage.
Relaxing, yes, but not therapeutic. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
Tantra Mase Praha 3, Ondkova 32, tel. (+420)
603 18 50 66, tantramasaze@seznam.cz, www.tan-
tramasaze.com. Experience a completel y di fferent kind
of massage. Tantra massage is a combination of ancient
tantra-tao techniques and classic massage. Reservations
required. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. 150 - 230.
Tantra Spa Praha 10, 28.pluku 18, tel. (+420) 777 85
88 64, info@tantraspa.cz, www.tantraspa.cz. A unique
experience for those looking to relax and perhaps expand
their sexual energy. A tantra massage is one that combines a
classic massage with elements of the tantra. The masseurs
attentive and respectful touch invites you to relax, helps to
increase the bodys sensitivity and enhances life energy and
joy. Bookings are by appointment onl y. QOpen 9:00 - 22:00.
Tawan - Thai massages Nmst Curieovch 100,
tel. (+420) 234 614 163/(+420) 721 731 401, hotel-
president@tawan.cz, www.tawan.cz. Tawan has a variety
of treatments including a classic Thai massage, an aroma oil
massage and a detox massage, plus body treatments like peel-
ings and wraps. Their most popular therapies use hot herbal
packs. Some of their specials are interesting too, like the one-
and-a-half hour foot and hand massage, or the Coconut Dream
featuring an aroma massage using coconut oil. They offer gift
certificates so you can give the gift of calm. Tawan is located
in the Hotel President and they have two other locations; one
inside the Holiday Inn Prague Congress Center and another
in Prague 1 at Salvtorsk 10. QOpen, Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu,
Fri 7:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 9:00 - 21:00. 450-2190k. JA
Thai Fit Na Po 21, tel. (+420) 224 81 18 76, www.
thaifit.cz. The aroma of the adjacent Siam Orchid restaurant
adds to the ambience of this great place and inspires what
to do post massage. Eat. Anyway, the masseuse here was
strong and achieved an incredible amount of vertebrae pop-
ping, exactl y what the neck was in need of. Calm, quiet and
recommended. 600K for one hour traditional Thai. QOpen
9:00 - 21:00.
Thai Orchidea F-4, Praha 1, Jindisk 5, MMstek,
tel. (+420) 222 22 22 31, info@thai-orchidea.cz, www.
thai-orchidea.cz. Tired back or legs? Revive them at Thai
Orchidea. The pros here will focus on your sore points; or for
an all-out body work over choose their traditional Thai mas-
sage, or special oil Thai massage. Youll leave stress-free and
ready to take on the city. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Traditional
Thai massage: 1 hour, 600k.
Thai World Celen 6, tel. (+420) 224 81 72 47, www.
thaiworld.cz. This used to be the place to go but it seems they
are resting on their laurels a tad. The masseuse spent more
time massaging with one hand in order to hold open the curtain
to see what/who was going on outside. She did notice pain in
the shoulder which she applied Tiger Balm to. Good, not great.
599K for one hour traditional Thai. QOpen 9:00 - 22:00.
Zen Studio Praha 1, irok 11, MStaromstsk, tel.
(+420) 222 31 72 22, zenstudio@zenstudio.cz, www.
zenstudio.cz. Calm and tranquillity is the name of the game
here. Zen Studio offers Thai massage, aromatic oil massage,
herbal massage, plus they have a Jacuzzi and sauna. Their
certified therapists will reduce tension while relaxing your
body. Take a moment for Zen now. QOpen Noon - 22:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.
Spas
Anensk slatinn lzn Lzn Blohrad, Spa 165,
tel. 493 76 71 11, fax 493 76 74 43, lazne@be-
lohrad.cz, www.belohrad.cz. A kind and professi onal
approach offers guests for both therapeuti c or wellness
stays a pl easant atmosphere and excell ent ser vi ce. The
spa focuses on the treatment of rheumati sm, ar thri ti s
and back pain. Acti ve vi si tors can play tenni s or rent
mountain bikes.
Aquaforum Frantikovy Lzn Frantikovy Lzn,
Ulice 5. kvtna 19, tel. 354 20 65 00, info@aquaforum.
info, www.aquaforum.info. For those who thought they
should have been born with fins instead of feet. Here theyve
got four indoor and three outdoor swimming pools, designed
in a Roman bath setting.
Lzn Hodonn Hodonn, Mansk 140, tel. 518
39 55 11, info@laznehodonin.cz, www.laznehodonin.
cz. Lzn Hodnn is known for i ts iodine infused water, ex-
cellent for treating cardiovascular and muscular problems.
The modern buildings and ideal surroundings make i t a
great choice.
Lzn Libverda 463 62 Hejnice, tel. 482 36 81 11, fax
482 36 81 10, rezervace@lazne-libverda.cz, www.lazne-
libverda.cz. Lzn Libverda in the Jizera Mountains focuses
on treating heart and blood circulation diseases. Their local
mineral springs were discovered in the 14th century and
there are a variety of sporting and relaxing options on hand.
Lzn Malvazinky Praha Praha 5, U Malvazinky 5,
MAndl, tel. 251 11 66 02, info.mediterra@malvazinky.
cz, www.malvazinky.cz. Here youll find a variety of help
in the area of sports medicine and physical therapy. Lzn
Mal vazinky Praha specializes in postoperative rehabilitation
and muscular-skeletal problems.
LS Royal Marinsk Lzn Marinsk Lzn, Lesn
345, tel. 354 62 54 46, fax 354 62 23 46, info@royal-
marienbad.cz, www.royalmarienbad.cz. Marinsk Lzn
is sometimes overlooked in favour of Karlovy Vary, but you
should put it in your spa plan and stay at the LS Royal. A variety
of relaxation stays support their therapeutic programmes
which include assistance wi th respiratory and metabolic
disorders. Pampering is a guarantee at this four-star hotel.
Richmond Park Hotel Karlovy Vary, Slovensk 3, tel.
353 17 71 11, fax 353 22 21 69, reservation@richmond.
cz, www.richmond.cz. We get all chilled-out just thinking
about the Richmond Hotel. This stunning property is located
on the outskirts of Karlovy Vary for a more peaceful stay. They
offer a variety of relaxation programmes, including anti-ageing
treatments, beauty weeks and relaxing days.
Massage
Ilandra K-6, Praha 2, Francousk 31, MNmst Mru,
tel. (+420) 773 58 28 12, info@ilandra.com, www.
ilandra.com. Ilandra promises their hands will restore your
life energy. At least youll be relaxed. Therapeutic, sport,
reflex, tantric, Chinese and Indian massages are all on offer.
They also offer home and office visits. Q 60 minutes - 1500
CZK/90 minutes - 2000 CZK/Therapeutic, sports and reflex
types of massage: 40 minutes - 750 CZK.
Lzn Libverda Hejnice, tel. (+420) 482 36 81 00, fax
(+420) 482 36 81 10, info@lazne-libverda.cz, www.lazne-
libverda.cz. Escape Prague for a weekend of pampering at Lzn
Libverda in Hejnice, near Liberec. Outdoor activities abound in
the nearby Jizera Mountains; and wellness and relaxation of all
types can be found at the spa. Treatments include carbo-mineral
baths, underwater massage, acupuncture and a variety of elec-
trotherapy procedures. There a variety of hotels and pensions
in the area and you can get to the town via Liberec.
Miracle Spa Jankovo nb. 7, MAndl, tel. (+420)
257 31 73 26, www.miraclespa.cz. With their menu of
wellness, hair and face treatments a miracle very likel y could
be performed. If nothing else, youll feel amazing when it is all
over. Miracle Spa offers body wraps and peels; a variety of
anti-aging face treatments; and of course the all important
relaxing baths, massage and thalassotherapy. Ahh, i ts a
miracle! QOpen 8:30 - 20:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Mystic Buddha F-2, Dlouh 39, tel. (+420) 221 77 95
10, www.mysticbuddha.cz. Emphasis is on balance and
harmony. Individual rooms provide extra privacy and English
speakers make life easier for any instructions. In addition to
Thai massage, they offer classic massage, cosmetic treat-
ments, a hair salon, manicures and pedicures. Try the hot
stones. One hour Thai massage is 950K. QOpen 10:00
- 22:00. Winter hours: 9:00-21:00
Canadian Medical Care Praha
6, Veleslavnsk 1, tel. 235 36 01
33/724 30 03 01, fax 235 36 46
40, cmc@cmcpraha.cz, www.cmcpraha.cz. General
practitioners, pediatrics, gynecology, dentists and more
can be found at Canadian Medical Care. Modern facilities
plus excellent staff make this a top of choice of many in
Prague. Also has a location in Praha 4, V Parku 2308/8,
272 91 35 93. QOpen, Mon, Wed, Fri 08:00 - 18:00, Tue,
Thu 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A
24-hour pharmacies
Lkrna U Svat Ludmily J-6, Praha 2, Belgick 37,
tel. (+420) 222 51 33 96.
Lkrna Modany Praha 4, Soukalova 3355, tel.
(+420) 244 40 22 70.
Lkrna Palackho H-4, Praha 1, Palackho 5, tel.
(+420) 224 94 69 82.
Lkrna U Andla Praha 5, tefnikova 6, tel. (+420)
257 32 46 86.
Dentists
American Dental Associates I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 4,
tel. (+420) 221 18 11 21, fax (+420) 221 18 11 20, www.
americandental.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Dental Emergencies H-4, Praha 1, Palackho 5, tel.
(+420) 224 94 69 81. Q Open 24hrs.
Esthesia Opletalova 1013/59, MNmst republiky,
tel. (+420) 284 68 05 30/(+420) 775 02 56 44, www.
esthesia.cz. Dentistry of the highest order (cosmetic, pre-
ventive, orthodontics & implantology) using state of the art
equipment combined with individual, after hours, professional
and above all, pain-free care for a heal thy happy smile. Take
the metro to Nmst republiky (Line B). QOpen 08:00 -
20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PTA
EsthetX Dental Clinic I-4, Praha 1, Vclavsk Nmst
38, MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 776 77 22 44, info@esthetx.cz,
www.esthetx.cz. Smile pretty. Or get yours fixed up. Complete
range of dental services including preventative care and im-
plants. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
European Dental Center I-4, Praha 1, Vclavsk nm.
33, tel. (+420) 224 22 89 84, www.edcdental.cz. A
high-quality, modern dental centre providing both general and
cosmetic dentistry, with a friendl y atmosphere and relativel y
painless treatment. Implants, prosthetic work, crowns, bridg-
es, inlays, orthodontics, periodontics and mouth surgery, and
root canal treatment are all available, with support from digital
x-ray. Plus the smile you want with the Brite-Smile system.
QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A
Hospitals
Nemocnice Motol Praha 5, V valu 84, tel. (+420)
224 43 11 11/(+420) 224 43 36 81, www.fnmotol.cz.
The operators of its emergency number speak English. Bus
N167 and 174. Q A
Nemocnice na Frantiku I-2, Praha 1, Na Frantiku
847, tel. (+420) 224 81 05 02/(+420) 224 81 02 80.
English is spoken.
Medical centres
Asklepion J-6, Praha 2, Londnsk 39, tel. (+420) 234
71 61 11/(+420) 602 48 33 22, fax (+420) 234 71 65
20, info@asklepion.cz, www.asklepion.cz. Super trendy
clinic offering plastic surgery, laser treatments, dentistry
and even eye lash perms. Labs and operating theatres on
site. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
GynCentrum Praha 9, Hloubtnsk 13, tel. (+420)
225 00 08 88, gyncentrum@gyncentrum.cz, www.
gyncentrum.cz. A quiet and welcoming clinic for a variety
of cosmetic surgery procedures, GynCentrum offers breast
enhancements, facelifts and liposuction along with treating
gynecological ailments. Their personal and professional
approach will be welcome, no matter your reason for a visit.
International Medical Services Praha 7, Jankovcova
16, tel. (+420) 266 77 37 11/(+420) 737 28 93 61,
www.medicalgroup.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. A
www.tawan.cz
Enter
the world of
Thai massages...
TAWANHotel President
Nm. Curieovch100
Praha 1, tel. +420 234 614 163
TAWANHolidayInn
Na Pankrci 15, Praha 4
tel. +420 296 895 050
TAWANOskar
Salvtorsk 10, Praha 1
tel. +420 224 815 730
78
LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY
79
LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY
Climbing
Climbing Center Ruzyn Praha 6, Drnovsk 19,
tel. (+420) 235 31 90 96, stena@stena-ruzyne.
com, www.stena- ruzyne.com. Wi t h an excel l ent
Engli sh websi te, thi s place has a 12 metre hi gh climb-
ing wall wi th 92 regularl y changed routes for both the
novi ce and exper t (a.k.a. the spi der). The boul dering
wal l costs 40K, the cl i mbi ng wal l i s 80K and you
can rent gear from them and take climbing courses.
Bus Ns 108, 218, 225. QOpen 15:00 - 21:45, Wed
10:00 - 15:45, Thu 18:00 - 21:45, Sat 16:00 - 21:45,
Sun 13:00 - 20:00.
Lokalblok Praha 5, nm. 14. jna 10, MAndl, tel.
(+420) 777 24 24 76, www.lokalblok.cz. A colourful and
very popular climbing bar. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. P
Namche Praha 8, Heydukova 6, tel. (+420) 266
31 29 45/(+420) 603 84 34 04, www.namche.cz.
Wouldnt a ladder be easi er? Buy col ourful rope, rubber
slippers and small metal clips and then find out what to
do wi th them. QOpen 09:00 - 21:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.
Cl osed Sun. A
Ultra Ant E-2, Praha 1, Tnsk 17, MNm. Republiky,
tel. (+420) 224 82 60 39. Small but central and friendl y.
English spoken, 1 hour lesson for 150K all inclusive. 7 metre
wall for 40K, gear rental available plus bouldering. QOpen
08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.
Extreme sports
Aeroklub Praha Praha 9, Hlkova 16, tel./fax (+420)
286 85 20 40, tel. (+420) 286 85 24 15, www.aklet-
nany.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Aviatic Centrum Praha Praha 4, Pujmanov
27/881, tel. (+420) 272 68 03 63/(+420) 602 32
36 08, fax (+420) 272 68 03 65, aviatic@aviatic.cz.
Should your li fe be too much for you, come here and learn
to paraglide, which is a sport akin to jumping out of the
window and waving a crisp packet in the air. You can also
jump out of an aeroplane and plummet 3,000 - 4,000
metres in si x minutes, whi ch at 4,460K works out at
1.48K - 1.11K per metre. Bargain.
Bobsleigh Praha 9, Proseck 906/34b, MPalmovka,
tel. (+420) 284 84 05 20, fax (+420) 284 84 05 21,
www.bobovadraha.cz. Not too extreme but thrilling none-
theless. Reach speeds of up to 50km/hr on a large tea tray on
wheels with a brake, which you might want to use. A fantastic
view of Prague, restaurant, lift back to the top and adrenaline
boosting 800m runs make a fantastic day out. 60K a run
or 280K for 6 runs. Take bus N 140, 187 & 233 two stops
(to Kelerka) from Palmovka. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00. Sat &
Sun 10:00 - 22:00. K
F-air, tel. (+420) 317 79 38 20/(+420) 606 62 36 10,
www.f-air.cz. Fl ying and jumping out of planes.
K. I. Bungee Jump, tel. (+420) 608 768 168/(+420)
777 250 126, www.bungee.cz. For 700 - 800K these nice
folks will march you to a bridge and let you jump off.
Parautistick kola Impact Praha 4, Dolni 12,
tel. (+420) 261 22 54 31/(+420) 602 95 80 94,
paraskola@volny.cz, http://skydive.mujweb.cz/.
Qui te possibl y the most insensi ti vel y monikered business
known to man. 3,100K for the usual aerial insani ty invol v-
ing aeroplanes, rushes of blood to the head and bodies
to the ground.
Tandem Centrum Praha Praha 6, Na Pkn vyhldce 4,
tel. (+420) 233 34 34 43/(+420) 603 45 62 27, www.
padaky.cz. For 3,500K this lot will take you up in a plane
and push you out whilst tied to another maniac. For an extra
1,000K they will video your terror.
Fitness centres
Cybex Praha 8, Poben 1 (Hotel Hilton), tel. (+420)
224 84 27 13, fax (+420) 224 84 23 72, info@cybexprg.
cz, www.ecybex.cz. Delightful, top-quality surroundings and
equipment for you to exert yourself in/on/with. We suppose if
youre going to suffer, you may as well do it in style. QOpen
06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 22:00.
Delroys Gym Praha 5, Zborovsk 4, tel. (+420) 257
32 70 42, info@delroys-gym.cz, www.delroys-gym.cz.
Karate, tae kwan do, kickboxing and all sorts of other ways
to exercise your aggression. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 20:00.
Holmes Place Prague 5, Plzesk 8, MAndl, tel.
(+420) 257 313 830. Deluxe heal th club inside the Nov
Smchov mall.
Sportcentrum YMCA I-3, Praha 1, Na Po 12, tel.
(+420) 224 87 58 11, fax (+420) 224 87 58 18, info@
scymca.cz, www.scymca.cz. Sweat away the kilos in the
fitness centre or sauna then cool down by taking a dip in the
swimming pool or by getting a massage. QOpen 06:30 -
22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
World Class Fitness Center Praha 1, Vclavsk nm.
22, MMstek, tel. (+420) 234 69 91 00, www.world-
classfitness.net. Defini tel y world class. Superb. QOpen
06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.
World Class Health Academy I-3, Praha1, V Celnici
10 (Millennium Plaza), MNm. Republiky, tel. (+420)
221 03 30 33, www.worldclassfitness.net. Another world
class facility. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.
Karting
Kart Areal Praha 9, Chlumeck 8 (ern Most mall),
Mern Most, tel. (+420) 281 91 61 88, www.kartar-
eal.cz. Zoom around a specially designed 500m indoor track
in a car park from 200K for 10 mins. QOpen 14:00 - 22:00,
Fri 14:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. K
Kart Centrum Praha 5, Vpadov 1335, tel. (+420)
602 61 24 92/(+420) 602 75 74 75, info@kart-centrum.
cz, www.kart-centrum.cz. Book the whole track and res-
taurant at a rate similar to Formula 1 prices; 1 hour 12,000
- 24,000K. QOpen 15:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00.
Kart Klub Letany Praha 9, Touimsk 55, tel. (+420)
777 311 856, fax (+420) 234 312 066, info@infosite.cz,
www.motokary.com. Indoor go-kart arena near to center
of Prague with 10 Honda GX200 karts, 512 m long track
with special y created asphal t concrete surface, computer-
ized scoring system, bar - restaurant with up to 150 seats,
disco stage. QOpen 14:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
Medicover I-6, Praha 2, Tylovo nm. 3/15, tel. (+420)
234 63 01 11, www.medicover.cz. Comprehensi ve
medical care, 24-hour house calls, dental and surgery as-
sistance. English, French, German, Spanish, Russian & Czech
speaking staff. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sun. A
Poliklinika na Nrodn D-4, Praha 1, Nrodn 9 (3rd
floor), tel. (+420) 222 07 51 20/(+420) 606 46 16 28,
fax (+420) 224 21 50 59, www.poliklinika.narodni.cz.
Emergency tel. 606 89 38 35. Q A
Polyclinic D-4, Praha 1, Nrodn 9, MNrodn tda,
tel. (+420) 222 075 120, poliklinika@narodni.cz, www.
poliklinika.narodni.cz. 25 physicians, all fluent in English
(also some German, Russian and French spoken). Preventa-
tive care and travel vaccinations, US visa medical, dental,
physio, home visits and 24hr emergency coverage. QOpen
08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 24hr emergency, tel. 777 94
22 70. Lab opens at 08:00. A
Unicare Praha 6, Na Dlouhm lnu 11, tel. (+420)
235 35 65 53/(+420) 608 10 30 60, fax (+420) 235
35 52 02, www.unicare.cz. 24-hour call ser vi ce. Take
tram N2, 20, & 26 or bus N116, 131 & 132. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Cl osed Sun. Also at
Prhoni ce, Kosatcov 420, tel. 267 75 04 27. Open:
Mon, Fri 09:00 - 15:00, Tue, Thu 09:00 - 20:00, Wed
09:00 - 18:00. A
Billiards
Billard Centrum F-4, Praha 1, V Cpu 1, tel. (+420)
720 15 20 44, www.billiardcentrum.cz. A huge old
building hidden down an alley in the centre - the well worn
grandure is explained in part by the fact that this used to
house prancing horses and now houses those looking to
bowl, play pool, snooker or billiards, table tennis, darts,
surf the net, or just get blind drunk for cheap. QOpen
11:00 - 01:00. Also at Praha 5, Stroupenickho 1, tel.
257 31 06 57.
Billiard Club Harlequin J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradsk
25, tel. (+420) 224 21 72 40, www.harlequin.zde.cz.
QOpen 14:00 - 04:00.
Caf Louvre D-4, Praha 1, Nrodn tda 22, tel. (+420)
224 93 09 49, cafelouvre@cafelouvre.cz, www.cafelou-
vre.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:30.
Bowling
Beer and Bowling Diner Praha 4, Kongresov 1
(Corinthia Towers Hotel), tel. (+420) 261 19 11 51,
fax (+420) 261 22 50 11, towers@corinthia.cz, www.
corinthia.cz. Ten-pin chaos on top of the ci ty. QOpen
14:00 - 24:00. A
Bowling Centrum RAN I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 10, tel.
(+420) 221 03 30 20/(+420) 739 02 65 58, www.
bowlingran.cz. Twinkle your toes right under the noses of
the posh-nobs upstairs in the Marriott. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
Kingpin G-2, Praha 6, Milady Horkov 109, tel. (+420)
224 39 62 64. Every kind of youth wasting facility - bowling,
darts, pool, booze. QOpen 14:00 - 02:00.
Ambulance, tel. (+420) 155.
City Police, tel. (+420) 156.
Fire, tel. (+420) 150.
International Emergency, tel. (+420) 112.
Police, tel. (+420) 158.
Emergency Numbers
Paintball
Paintball Club Troja Praha 4, Krejnick 2021, tel.
(+420) 272 91 11 09, info@paintballgame.cz, www.
paintballgame.cz. Rent or buy the stuff with which you can
drag your mates out into the woods and shoot them. 3 games
areas available. Call in advance. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. A
Prague Indoor Paintball Praha 9, Freyova 27,
MVysoansk, tel. (+420) 777 33 49 39, www.prague-
indoor-paintball.com. Grab your macho Spyder Pilot ACS gun,
protective clothing, bullets, I mean paintballs and shoot your
friends at this indoor venue with 10 games tailored to novices
and James Bonds among us. 250K per hour, plus bar, pool,
table tennis, kick boxing and gaming. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
Camera services
Centrum Fotokoda I-4, Praha 1, Vodikova 37, tel.
(+420) 222 92 90 29/(+420) 602 19 24 71, fax (+420)
222 92 90 16, info@fotoskoda.cz, www.fotoskoda.cz.
QOpen 08:30 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Hairdressing
Bomton I-4, Praha 1, Vclavsk nm. 43, tel. (+420)
224 23 16 89/(+420) 224 23 16 90, www.bomton.
cz. Chain of upmarket salons to give you a pat on the head.
QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 13:00 - 19:00.
Also at H-5, Praha 1, Myslkova 31, tel. 224 93 44 27, open
09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
James Hair E-2, Praha 1, Mal tupartsk 9, tel. (+420)
224 82 73 73/(+420) 602 17 10 16, james@jameshair.
cz, www.jameshair.cz. Upmarket bi-lingual hairdressers
responsible for the presidents wifes hairdo. QOpen 08:00
- 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Joshua K-6, Praha 10, Slovensk 2, tel. (+420) 222 52
01 26/(+420) 604 81 46 73, fax (+420) 222 51 46 53,
info@joshua.cz, www.joshua.cz. Take a walk on the wilder
side of the coiffure industry. We dont advise visiting on a whim
or when inebriated. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Kadenictv Zkosteleck Praha 2, Slavojova 12, tel.
(+420) 224 93 74 49, www.volny.cz/kadernice. Price
starts at 100K. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Salon Gaud F-4, Praha 1, Vclavsk nm. 36 (3rd
Floor), MMstek, tel. (+420) 224 24 71 98/(+420) 604
26 52 63, www.gaudistudio.cz. The one stop conglomer-
ate that is OASIS City now offers styling and more from Salon
Gaud, who also operate in Moscow, London, Paris and Ge-
neva. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00; Sundays by appointment onl y.
Toni & Guy Praha 1, Dlouh 13, tel. (+420) 222 32 00
56/(+420) 222 32 00 57, fax (+420) 222 32 33 59,
info@toniandguy.cz, www.toniandguy.cz. Cut and blow
dry will set you back 800 - 1150K depending on who on their
power ladder is doing the snipping. For the budget conscious,
student cuts are 200K and colour is 450K. QOpen 08:00
- 20:00, Mon 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Tribo I-3, Praha 1, Klimentsk 2, tel. (+420) 224 81 48
00/(+420) 603 46 64 66, info@tribo.cz, www.tribo.cz.
Hair studio, tattoos and piercing. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.
Closed Sun.
Lost credit cards
American Express Praha 1,Vclavsk nm. 56, tel.
(+420) 222 21 10 89, fax (+420) 234 71 17 12, http://
www.axrep.cz/. QOpen closed.
Diners Club, tel. (+420) 267 19 74 50.
Eurocard/Mastercard & Visa, tel. (+420) 224 24
50 41.
81
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
Prague is as famous for its sex clubs as it is for its beer.
Stag nights take advantage of the price and availability of
both, and on the whole these clubs are well organised and
clean. Safe sex is practiced, and bouncers and/or manag-
ers will explain the rules and methods of each place on ar-
rival. It is cheaper to partake over here, but that does not
mean you wont pay for the privilege of watching a live sex
or lesbian show. Generally, youll have to pay an entrance
fee (around 500K) to sit at the bar; this fee is waived if
you are there to pay for other services immediately. Many
of the central clubs pay men and women to entice you
off the street and into their nearby establishments, but if
youre heading somewhere by taxi, make sure youre taken
to the one you want to go to rather than the one the taxi
driver gets commission from. Check prices of services and
drinks, and enjoy
Big Sister Praha 5, Ndran 46, tel. (+420) 257 31
00 43/(+420) 257 31 00 44, bigsister@bigsister.net,
www.bigsister.net. Forget about big brother watching you,
this is voyeurism Big Sister style. Pragues first online brothel
has 40 girls, 58 cameras and you being beamed live onto the
internet via 17 videostreams. Pay a 500 CZK entrance, sign
away your anonymity (masks are not allowed) and the girls
are free. Add the theme rooms, pool, sauna, and showbar with
lap dancers, Big Sister is one unique experience. Visit on a
Saturday or Sunday to take advantage of their special parties.
Must be reserved in advance; check their frequently updated
website for the latest action. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. A
Carioca E-4, Praha 1, Vclavsk nm. 1, MMstek,
tel. (+420) 296 32 53 14. A large open room with a central
stage hosts girls galore doing the can-can and go-go, plus strip
and lesbian shows. The place resembles a wedding reception
complete with faux Louis XIV furniture, but you lads arent here
for the dcor, now are you? QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. AP
Club 161 K-2, Praha 8, Sokolovsk 161, MKikova,
tel. (+420) 284 81 02 62, 161@nightclub161.cz, www.
club161.cz. A small residential house hosts from two (in the day)
to 12 lovely girls for your pleasure. Downstairs is a bar and pole for
strip and lesbian shows, while upstairs you can take your pick of
four rooms and/or a Jacuzzi. An S&M room has toys, PVC every-
thing and whips if thats your bag, baby. Free entrance and decent
bar prices. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 20:00 - 06:00. AL
Club 600 Praha 3, Konvova 66, tel. (+420) 222 58
61 28, www.c600.cz. Cosy club offering all the fun of the
fair from three in the afternoon to the very earl y hours of
the morning. Al ways a good number of Czech girls on hand
to provide you with whatever assistance and relaxation you
may need. QOpen 19:00 - 05:00.
K5 Relax Club J-5, Praha 2,
Korunn 5, MNm. Mru, tel.
224 25 05 05, www.k5relax.
cz. The best club in Prague, and
considered by experts as one of
the top sex clubs anywhere in
Central Europe. From friendl y doormen to the hands-on
management who will answer all of your questions in as
many languages as you can imagine, to the lovel y girls
who will look after your every wish, this place has it all. A
computerised payment system ensures that you will not
be ripped off. We cannot recommend K5 more. QOpen
16:00 - 04:00. A
82
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
Darling Cabaret I-5, Praha 1, Ve Smekch 32a,
MMuzeum, www.kabaret.cz. One of the biggest and
most popular of the adul t clubs in town but its not cheap
as it caters for the comparativel y rich tourists. Head over
to Vclavsk nm. and just try to miss it... youve probabl y
seen and been photographed next to their limo too. Watch
cabaret, lesbian shows, Thai Fire shows and table dancing
courtesy of 150-200 girls a night. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00, Tue
20:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00.
Desire Cabaret I-5, Praha 1, V Jm 8, MMstek, tel.
(+420) 296 338 539, info@desire-cabaret.cz, www.
desire-cabaret.cz. Centrall y located night club with all the
usual attractions, including erotic dancers, striptease, lesbian
shows and full service massage. Popular with visitors, pay
them a visit and you will discover why.
Escade I-7, Praha 4, Kesomyslova 5, tel. (+420) 241
40 98 88, www.escade.cz. Tucked down in Nusle is Escade,
home to thirty girls every night for your viewing (and more)
pleasure. Get comfortable in the sofa-laden bar before taking
your pick of one of their spacious rooms, sauna or whirlpool.
The usual strip and erotic shows are crowd pleasers, and
Escade also offers soft S&M, services for couple, special
private arrangements and an escort service. Just in case
you go overboard, theres an ATM. Q Open 24 hrs. PA
Exclusive Club Praha 10, robrova 6, MFlora, tel.
(+420) 776 88 55 22, info@exclusive-club.cz, www.
exclusive-club.cz. Strip clubs are a dime a dozen in Prague,
but Exclusive Club has raised the bar. Newly open; they take
reservations, have a VIP room, free entry and everyone gets a
welcome drink. Lovely ladies and an events calendar; Exclusive
Club is worth the slightly out of centre trip. QOpen Noon - 5am.
Extasy Cabaret Praha 3, Chlumova 13, tel. (+420)
222 78 00 48/(+420) 777 206 006, www.extasy.cz.
Extasy offers a courtesy car from anywhere in Prague and a
free welcome drink for punters. This is a well-known place for
quality girls and imaginative shows, for example, Cheryl and
her drill - use that imagination yup, thats right. Anyway,
its all air conditioned, they have a bar with dance, erotic and
lesbian shows, massage, plus various rooms and even a
waterbed. Extasy also hosts film and photo shoots. QOpen
12:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 20:00 - 06:00. A
Follow Me Praha 7, Na acht 5, tel. (+420) 608 84
41 43, www.followme.cz. Follow me to a place where you
can get away from it all and enjoy the delights of erotic girls
there just to please you. And believe us, they will. Drinks,
free transport, low prices but above all, hot chicks. Near the
Vstavit grounds in Holeovice. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00.
Goldfingers E-4, Praha 1, Vclavsk nm. 4, MMstek,
tel. (+420) 222 19 38 56. No sex please, were British. This
is not the call of either James Bond or the stag-partier, but
that is the ethic at Goldfingers, the classiest strip joint in
town. Its not cheap but then again, the girls arent either.
QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. PA
Hot Peppers F-4, Praha 1, Vclavsk nm. 21,
MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 724 13 40 11, www.hotpeppers.
cz. Hot Peppers - Gate to Hell is an original, exclusive club.
Next door to the disco Duplex, its the ideal combination of
cabaret dancers and champagne consumption; all wi th a
professional presentation. The V.I.P. Champagne Lounge,
wi th i ts choice of many exquisi te brands of bubbl y, cant
be found anywhere else. The all-night programme includes
exotic and cancan dancers; a lesbian show, stag show and
even private rooms. Benefits include free entry, every second
84
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
beer free, discount vouchers for 5 and 10 beers, and many
more attractive offers. Plus, the party can go on as long as
you wish - theres no closing time at Hot Peppers. Excepts
all credit cards, including American Express. QOpen 20:30
- 05:00. PJA
Laura Club Praha 3, Jeseniova 166, tel. (+420) 271 77
46 90, www.lauraclub.cz. Great little club in ikov where
you can enjoy lovel y Czech girls strip for you three nights a
week before escorting one to a private room to help you drink
your sparkling wine. When there is no strip action there are still
al ways plenty of girls ready to entertain you in as many ways
as you can imagine. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. A
Lotos Club Praha 4, Kupeckho 832, MHje, tel.
(+420) 272 91 68 25, www.lotos.cz. Newly renovated and
still specialising in the discreet luxury niche. Lotos is modelled
on a gentlemans club although with the added bonus of young
girls, pool and S&M room for starters. Choose from over 20
quality girls a night. Free entrance voucher on the website.
Q Open 24hrs. A
Neon Club Balbinov 21, MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 222
25 01 05/(+420) 733 12 10 22, www.neonclub.cz. The
Neon Club offers three exotic floors of strippers, lap dancers
and escort services. The first floor will amuse with its selec-
tion of sex toys; while the second has a reasonabl y priced
cocktail bar and dancing girls. Ascend to the third and you
can catch a game in their sports bar. QOpen 12:00 - 5:00.
Red Light Praha K-1, Praha 7, Bubensk nb., MVl-
tavsk, tel. (+420) 261 31 41 51, www.redlight.cz. In
the middle of Holeovice market is Pragues very own little
Amsterdam. Red Light is a whole melange of saucy goings on
in one location. You will find an Amsterdam/Frankfurt style sex
supermarket, a red light centre with a peep show and video
rooms and the Pleasure sex shop selling saucy souvenirs for
the boys and girls back home. Q Sex Park open 24hrs, shop
open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-15:00, closed Sun. A
Sugars Cabaret I-5, Praha 1, Krakovsk 25,
MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 222 21 07 96. Get a free beer
while you watch one of their strip, lesbian or auto-erotic shows.
If you so desire, have extra sugar in your bowl with a choice
of seven rooms one has a whirlpool. Various theme nights
spice things up too. QOpen 19:00 - 07:00. AP
Sweet Paradise Praha 3, Slezsk 75, MJiho z
Podbrad, tel. (+420) 737 66 82 33/(+420) 272 73
29 06, www.sweetparadise.cz. Boasting 12-20 (of 50)
girls available per night, this is a more local affair offering
beer and girls, the most famous of Czech commodities. All
sorts available from shows at the tiki bar, basic theme rooms,
special services and long term escorts. Print the discount
voucher from the website. Foreign currency accepted. QOpen
12:00 - 05:00. A
Velvet Praha 4, Ve Svahu 13, MVyehrad, tel. (+420)
241 43 26 74, www.velvetclub.cz. The self-proclaimed
flagship of erotic calls for all hands on deck a short taxi ride
south of the centre. Amenities include bubble baths, video,
free minibar and escort services. Call ahead and a taxi will
pick you up free of charge. Q Open 24hrs. A
Pragues only cabaret
at hotel Ambassador
www. goldfingers. cz
Vclavsk nmst 5, 110 00 Praha 1, tel.: +420 608 663 066
open daily:
8 pm - 4 am
y: y::
mm
Air conditioned
The
original
Luxurious cabaret
in the centre
of Prague
ll
ladies and gentlemen,
casual or business-travellers,
stag parties or hen
you all are welcome
to Goldfingers
For more entertainment:
Unique books from
Ireland
(and 21 other prizes)
inyourpocket.com/survey
Complete our latest readership survey at inyourpocket.com/survey
and well enter you in our prize draw: the winner gets something
priceless and unique from every country currently In Your Pocket.
N52
3RODQG ] (w tym7%VAT)
UK - 5 EU (excl. Poland & UK) - 3 warsaw.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1641-5264
WARSAW
After the Battle
Warsaw Uprising 70
years on
The Mouth of
Old Town
Warsaws Barbican
August - September 2009
In Your Pocket: I In In
written series of guidebooks. wr wrrit itt
BELFAST
Aug - Sep 2007
NORTHERN
IRELAND
HIGHLIGHTS &
HIDDEN GEMS
Including
Better by
design
Stunning souvenirs,
stylish shopping and
local crafts on display
The Great
Outdoors
Feel the burn, catch the
waves, take a hike
Gastro Tourism
Northern Ireland on a
plate
N13
Complimentary copy
YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY
N48 - 100 K
PRAGUE
Christmas
Markets
Gifts galore
Winter Chill Out
Massage and more
December 2008 - January 2009
N95 - 6Lt
VILNIUS
Uupis
A brief sojourn inside Vilnius
distinctl y eccentric
independent republic

Vingio Parkas
From Tolstoy to rollerblades,
the citys favourite park is
pulled apart and examined
AAAA t S ttt S tt SSSSS tttt bbb August - September 2009
86
STREET REGISTER
17. listopadu D-2
28. jna E-4
Alovo nbe D-2
Anensk D-3
Anensk Nm. D-3
Anesk F-1
Bartolomjsk D-4
Benediktsk F-2
Besedn B-4
Betlmsk D-4
Betlmsk Nm. D-4
Blkova E-2
Borov D-4
Behov D-1
Betislavova A-2
Celetn F-3
Ciheln C-2
echv most D-1
erven E-2
Divadeln C-4
Dlouh E-2
Draickho B-2
Draickho Nm. B-2
Dun E-1
Dvokovo nb. D-1
E. Krsnohorsk E-2
Harantova B-3
Hatalsk F-2
Hatalsk Nm. F-2
Havelsk E-3
Havelsk ulika E-3
Havsk E-3
Hellichova A-3
Hlavsova E-3
Hradansk nm A-1
Hradebn F-2
Hroznov B-3
Husova D-3
Charvtova E-4
Chotkova B-1
Jchymova E-2
Jakubsk F-3
Jalovcov D-3
Jnsk vrek A-2
Jilsk D-3
Jindisk F-4
Jisk B-1
Josefsk B-2
K Hatalu F-1
Kamzkov E-3
Kaprova D-2
Karlova D-3
Karlv most C-3
Karmelitsk B-3
Karolny Svtl C-4
Klrov C-1
Kltersk F-1
Konviktsk D-4
Kosrkovo nb. D-1
Kosten E-2
Koz E-1
Kon E-3
Krlodvorsk F-3
Krocnova C-4
Kiovnick D-3
Kiovnick Nm. D-3
Lzesk B-2
Letensk B-2
Liliov D-3
Linhartsk D-3
Maiselova D-2
Mal Kltern F-1
Mal Nm. E-3
Malostransk nb. B-4
Malostransk Nm. B-2
Mal tzsk Nm. B-3
Mnesv most C-2
Marinsk Nm. D-3
Martinsk D-4
Masn E-2
Melantrichova E-3
Michalsk E-3
Mikovcova I-5
Mikulandsk D-4
Mikulsk E-3
Mesk B-2
Most Legi C-4
Mosteck B-2
Na Frantiku E-1
Na Kamp B-3
Na Mstku E-4
Na Opyi C-1
Na Pertn D-4
Na Pkop F-3
Na Rejditi D-2
Na Zbradl C-3
Nb. Ed. Benee C-1
Nm. Curieovch E-1
Nm. Franze Kafky E-3
Nm. J. Palacha D-2
Nm. U sv. Ji A-1
Nmst Republiky F-2
Nprstkova D-3
Nrodn D-4
Nebovidsk B-3
Nekzanka F-3
Nerudova A-2
Nosticova B-3
Novotnho lvka C-3
Olivov F-4
Ovocn trh F-3
Pansk F-4
Pask E-1
Pelclova B-3
Perlov E-4
Plask B-4
Platnsk D-2
Pod Bruskou C-1
Politickch vz F-4
Pran most A-1
Prokopsk B-2
Provaznick E-3
Prchodn D-4
Rmov F-2
Revolun F-2
Rov F-4
Rybn F-2
Rytsk E-4
snovka F-1
etzov D-3
n B-4
Sal vtorsk E-2
Sask B-2
Seminsk D-3
Senovn F-3
Skoepka D-4
Smetanovo nb. C-4
Snmovn B-2
Splen D-4
Star zmeck schody B-1
Staromstsk Nm. E-3
Stbrn D-3
ekov B-4
irok D-2
tefnikv most F-1
tupartsk F-2
Templov F-3
Thunovsk A-2
Tomsk B-2
Trit A-2
Tnsk F-2
Tnsk ulika E-2
U Bruskch kasren C-1
U Dobenskch D-4
U Lanov drhy A-4
U Luickho sem. C-2
U Milosrdnch E-1
U Obecnho domu F-3
U Obecnho dvora E-2
U Plovrny D-1
U Pran brny F-3
U Radnice E-3
U Sovovch mln B-3
U Star kol y E-2
U Starho hbitova D-2
U Sv. Ducha E-2
U Zlat studn B-1
U elezn lvky C-1
Uheln trh E-4
jezd A-4
V Cpu F-4
V Kolkovn E-2
V Kotcch E-4
Vclavsk Nm. F-4
Valdtejnsk C-1
Valdtejnsk Nm. B-1
Valentinsk D-2
Vej vodova D-3
Veleslavnova D-2
Velkopevorsk Nm. B-3
Vzesk E-2
Viksk A-1
Vtzn B-4
Vlask A-2
Vorilsk D-4
Vehrdova B-4
Za Hatalem F-2
Zmeck A-2
Zmeck schody A-1
Zlat D-3
Zlat ulika B-1
ateck D-2
elezn E-3
BUS 100
to
Ruzyn Airport
Ordinary operation - Effective from 9.5.2008
BUS 179
to
Ruzyn Airport
infoline
Metro
Changing station
Change to D trains/S lines
Infocentre
P+R Parking lot
Bus to Ruzyn Airport
Funicular to Petn
BUS 119, 254, AE
to
Ruzyn Airport
90
INDEX
Abaton 56
Absolutum 24
Adagio 51
Adventure Playground 69
AghaRTA Jazz Centrum 59
Akord 59
Akropolis 41, 56
Allegro 34
Aloha Wave Lounge 51
Ambassador Casino 55
Amici Miei 38
Amour Hotel Residence 28
Andel's 24
Angel 44
Angelo Hotel 25
Ankora 27
Anna 27
Antik City 25
Apartments OASIS City 28
Appia Residences 28
AquaPalace Aqua Park 69
Aquapalace Hotel 25
Aria 21
Ariston 27
Aromi 38
Around Prague Information
Centre 64
Astoria 25
Atlantic 27
Au Gourmand 48
Azteca 42
Babylon 42
Back Doors 51
Bambus 51
Banco Casino 55
Barnick rychta 31
Bar and Books 51
Barcel 25
Barcel Praha 25
Barock 51
Beas 44
Bed Lounge 34
Be kara OK! 56
Bellevue 34
Bel vedere 25
Best Tour 68
Best Western Hotel Pv 27
Best Western Premier Hotel
Majestic Plaza 26
Bethlehem Chapel 64
Big Sister 81
Blatouch 51
Blind Eye 51
Blue Light Bar 51
Blues Sklep 59
Bohemia 55
Bombay Cocktail Bar 51
Bordo 56
Botanical Gardens 70
Brasserie La Provence 33
Brasserie Praha 34
Bredovsk dvr 32
Bresto 48
Buddha Bar Hotel 21
Budweiser Budvar
Restaurant 32
Buffalo Bill's 30
Bugsy's 52
BW Meteor Plaza 26
Caf Amsterdam 48
Caf Caf 48
Caf Imperial 48
Caf Jungmann 48
Caf Louvre 48
Caf Pavla 48
Caf Savoy 48
Caffrey's 60
Cantina 42
Carioca 81
Carl ton 26
Cartouche 42
Casa Havana 51
Casino de Prague Le Hil ton55
Casino Palais Savarin 55
Casino Panorama 55
Casino President 55
Celebrity Caf 41
Cleste 33
Celnice 32, 56
Century Casino Millennium 56
Cigars and Coffee 48
City Cafe Cosmopolit 34
City Museum 65
Cityrama Prague 68
City Walks 71
Claris 27
Clear Head 44
Cloud 9 51
Club 161 81
Club 600 81
Coffee Fellows 48
Coffeeheaven 48
Coloseum 43
Como 42
Corinthia Towers 21
Corleone 38
Country Life 44
Courtyard Marriott Flora 26
Courtyard Marriott Prague
Airport 27
Cowboys Steaks & Cocktails
30
Coyotes 52
Cross Club 56
Crowne Plaza Prague Castle
26
Cubism Museum 65
Cukrkvalimonda 48
Czech Museum of Fine Arts
65
edok 68
ern slon 34
Chapeau Rouge 51
Charles Bridge 63
Chateau St. Havel 26
Choco-Story: The Chocolate
Museum 69
Christie 28
Church of Our Lady
Victorious 64
Dahab 43
Dail y Walks 71
Dancing Fountains 69
Darling Cabaret 82
DC1 52
Decorative Arts Museum 65
DISK Caf 49
DOX Centre for
Contemporary Art 65
Drake's 59
Dubliner Irish Bar 61
Dm u velk boty 29
Duplex 57
Dvorak Sec Contemporary 65
Dvok Museum 65
Ebel 49
El Emir 41
lite 26
El ysee 26
Escade 82
Escape 59
Espressamente Ill y 49
Esprit Orangerie 34
Euforia 57
Exclusive Club 82
Extasy Cabaret 82
Face Cafe 49
Fluidum 42
Folklore Garden 32
Follow Me 82
Four Seasons 22
Francouzsk restaurace 33
Funicular Rail way 70
Futura 65
Futurum 57
Galerie Jaroslava Fragnera65
Galerie La Femme 65
Galerie Vclava pl y 65
Gallery KusKovu 65
Gecko 52
George & Dragon 60
Gestapo HQ 70
Giallo Rosa 43
Globe 49
Goldfinger's 84
Grand Caf Orient 49
Grand Caf Praha 49
Grand Hotel Bohemia 22
Grand Hotel Praha 22
Gusto 43
Hacienda Mexicana 42
Hanabi Hibachi House 39
Hapu 52
Hard Rock Cafe 30
Harlequin 52
Harley's 52
Hergetova Cihelna 34
Hil ton Prague 22
Hil ton Prague Old Town 22
Historical Museum 65
Hong Kong 31
Hospoda Lucerna 52
Hotel ern slon 26
Hotel Neruda 26
Hot Pepper's 82
House at the White Unicorn 67
Huang He 31
Hybernia 34
Ibis Praha City 28
Ibis Praha Smchov 28
Il Giardino 40
Indian Jewel 33
InterContinental Praha 22
Irish Club Prague 52
Jma 30, 60
Jazz Boat 59
Jet Set 52
Jewellery Collection 67
Ji Svtsk Gallery 67
J.J.Murphy's 60
Josef 23
K5 Relax Club 81
Kafko 49
Kafka Museum 67
Kampa Museum 67
Kampa Park 71
Karavanserj 43
Karln London 49
Karlovy Lzn 57
Kva Kva Kva 49
Kavala 33
Kavalr 28
Kavrna Obecn Dm 49
Kavrna Pavilon 49
Kempinski Hybernsk Prague
23
Klementinum 70
Klub 007 Strahov 57
Klub Lvka 57
Kmotra 43
Kogo 38
Korea House 39
Kozika 41, 52
Kri-Kri 33
La Belle Epoque 52
La Cambusa 43
La Casa Bl 52
La Degustation 34
La Fabrique 57
La Galerie 34
Langhans Galerie 67
La Rustica 38
Laura Club 84
La Veranda 34
Le Grill 34
Leica Gallery 67
Lemon Caf 50
Letensk zmeek 35
Letn 71
Le Tram 52
Liberty 26
Lokalblok 52
Loreta 64
Lotos Club 84
Lucerna Music Bar 57
Lv dvr 32
M1 57
Macao 31
Mad Bar 54
Magick zahrada 38
Maitrea 44
Malostransk pivnice 60
Maluj Creative Caf 50
Mal Buddha 33
Mnes Exhibition Hall 67
Man-na 39
Manni Mini 33
Marriott Executive
Apartments 29
Martin's Irish Pub 60
Martin Tour 69
Masala 33
Mash Hana 39
Matylda Botel 38
Mecca 57
Merlin 60
Metropol Music Cafe 43
Miniatures Museum 67
Mirellie 39
Mirror Labyrinth 69
Mlnec 35
Modr zub 44
Moll y Malone's 60
Molotow Cocktail Bar 54
Monarch 35
Mount Steak 35
Mvenpick 26
Mozart Museum 67
Mucha Museum 67
Municipal House 63
Museum of Communism 67
Museum Pension 29
Muketr 29
Muzeum Karlova Mostu 67
Nagoya 39
Nmst Mru 70
Na Police 60
National Memorial 70
National Museum 68
National Theatre 63
Nebe 57
Neon Club 84
NOI 44
Nordica 50
Nordsee 44
Nostress 35
Novomstsk pivovar 30
Nusle Bridge 70
O'Che's 60
Old Prague Hostel 29
Old Town Square 63
Oliva 42
Ol ympos 33
Osteria De Clara 39
Ostrov tvanice 71
Ouky Douky 50
Our Lady of Snow 64
Paneria 30
Papas 54
Paris 23
Park Inn 28
Pekelnej Bar 54
Perfect 35
Petn 71
Petnsk Terasy 40
Petn Tower 70
Pizza Nuova 43
Planetarium 69
Planet Sushi 40
Pod kdlem noci 35
Popocafepetl Music Club 57
Praga Sport Caf 61
Prague Classic Rental 29
Prague Info 64
Prague Marriott 23
Prague Sightseeing Tours 69
Prague Square Hostel 29
Praha Bike 71
Pravda 35
Premiant City Tour 69
President 23
Primitiv Pravk 35
Punto Azul 58
Radisson SAS Alcron 24
Ramada Airport Hotel Prague
27
Real Tour 71
Red Light Praha 84
Reduta 59
Repete 54
Resto Caf Patio 35
Retro Music Hall 58
Reykjavk 44
Ridgeback 54
Robert Guttmann Gallery
(Jewish Museum) 68
Rock Caf 58
Rocky O'Reill y's 60
Roma 43
Roxy 58
Royal Palace 24
Rudolfinum 68
Rugantino 43
Rybanaruby 50
Ryb trh 44
Safir 41
Sarah Bernhardt 33
Seaworld 69
Seventh Heaven 50
Shakespeare & Sons 50
Shamrock Irish Pub 61
Sheraton Prague Charles
Square Hotel 24
Sherlock's Pub 41, 60
Siam Orchid 44
Slavia 50
Smetana Museum 68
Solidn nejistota 58
Sovereign 27
Sovovy Mlny 32
Spearmint Casino 56
Sportbar Sparta ve Slavii 61
Starbucks 50
St. Ignatius Church 64
St. Nicholas Caf 54
St. Nicholas Church 64
Stolet 32
Stone Bell House 68
Strahov Monastery 64
Steleck ostrov 36
Sts. Cyril and Methodius
Church 65
Studio 54 58
Subway 30
Sudika 54
Sugar's Cabaret 84
Sushi Bar 40
Svat Klra 36
Swank 56
Sweet Paradise 84
vejk 32
Taj Mahal 33
Techtle Mechtle 36
Tequila Sunrise 42
Termix 59
The Augustine 24
The Beer Factory 61
The Dancing House 70
The Chemistry Gallery 68
The Lions Bar 61
The Noodle Bar 44
The Pack 61
The Saints 59
Tlust koala 60
Top Secret Club 58
Torture Museum 68
Town Hall & Astronomical
clock 63
Toy Museum 70
Transport Museum 68
Tretters 56
Trilobit 56
Troja Chateau 68, 71
Tropison cocktail bar 56
TV Tower 40, 70
U Betlmsk Kaple 32
U Budovce 50
U Bukanra 58
U Buldoka 58
U Cedru 42
U Csa 42
U ernho vola 60
U Dominikna 36
U Emy Destinnov 36
jezd 58
U Kalicha 31
Ul tramarin 56
U Malho Glena 41, 59
U Mal tzskch ryt 32
U Modr re 32
U Muketra 32
Ungel t Jazz & Blues Club 59
Universal 36
U Pinkas 31
U Prstenu 50
U Rudolfa 59
U Sdl 42
U Sedmi vb 42
U Star pan 59
U evce Matoue 32
U Vodrny 31
U Zavenho kafe 50
U Zlatho tygra 60
U Zlat konvice 32
U Zlat studn 36
Vagon 58
Valdtejnsk zahrada 71
Valentino 59
Veg Food 44
Veletrn Palace 68
Velryba 50
Vel vet 84
Venue 73 61
Vertigo 58
Vesmrna 50
Victims of Communism
Memorial 69
Villa Mller 69
Villa Richter Restaurants 36
Vl tava 36
Vysmt zajc 61
Vyehrad 63
V Zti 36
Wakata 56
Wenceslas Square 63
Wigwam 36
XT3 58
Yasmin 27
Yessi Caf 50
Zahrada v Opee 36
Zanzibar 56
Zapa Bar 56
Zinc 36
Zlat hvzda 61
Zlat Praha 40
Zlat asy 58
Zlat strom 41
Zoo Praha 71
Zvonice 40
The freshest brew in town
20 styles of ILLY coffee
Prague Marriott Hotel, V Celnici 8, Prague 1

Prague: October - November 2009 October - November 2009

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N53 - 100 K

Budesk 17, Praha 2

Politickch Vz 16, Praha 1

Ostrovn 32, Praha 1

Slezsk 26, Praha 2

Kemencova 13, Praha 1

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