Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Test 3.

3L Frontier, Quest, Pathfinder, XTerra -Part I-

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1/3 Previous image Enlarge Next image This type of MAF Sensor is used on the 3.3L V6 Nissan engine. So if you need to test the Mass Airflow Sensor on a Nissan Quest, or a Pathfinder, or a Frontier or an Xterra... this is the article for you. You'll find step by step instructions on how to test this 'hot-wire' type Nissan MAF Sensor. Before jumping into the tests, read this section first. Here you're gonna' find some important tips and suggestions so that you can successfully diagnose the MAF on your Nissan car or truck.

Common Symptoms of a BAD Nissan MAF Sensor

These are some of the most common symptoms of a BAD Nissan MAF Sensor: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. A MAF Sensor code that lights up the Check Engine Light (CEL), but not always. Lean and/or Rich code(s). Fuel Trim code(s). A tremendous lack of power upon acceleration. Black smoke coming from the tail-pipe. Won't an Emmissions Test. Vehicle may idle rough and stall. BAD gas mileage.

Is my MAF Sensor just Dirty?

There's a good chance that the MAF Sensor on your Pathfinder (or Quest, or Xterra, or Frontier) is just dirty. Dirty? OK, that the MAF Sensor's 'hot-wires' are contaminated with dirt and/or oil. When the MAF Sensor does get dirty (contaminated), it usually doesn't cause a tremendous amount of havoc. The two biggest symptoms of dirty MAF Sensor are 1) a lack of power upon acceleration and 2) BAD Gas mileage (although this is not an absolute truth). Why does it get dirty/contaminated? Well, this MAF Sensor easily becomes contaminated with dirt and stuff from the air filter not performing its job or the box that holds the air filter is broken or not sealing correctly. Cleaning this type of Sensor is very very easy and the last section of this article shows you just how.

What tools do I need?

A Digital Multimeter is gonna' be your best friend in testing the MAF Sensor on your Xterra (or Quest, or Pathfinder, or Frontier). You don't need a fancy one, since all you'll be doing with it is verifying DC voltages.

Circuit Descriptions of the Frontier, Quest, Pathfinder, Xterra MAF Sensor

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1/2 Previous image Enlarge Next image The MAF Sensor on your Frontier (or Quest, or Pathfinder, or Xterra) has the letters A through D etched onto it. These letters identify the circuits that feed into its connector. I'll be using these very same letters to describe the circuits (since the color of the wires will not be the same, on your Nissan vehicle, as those in the photos).
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1.
2.

1.
3.

1.
4.

1.

Letter A Empty slot in the connector. Letter B 12 Volt Battery Power. Letter C Ground. Provided by the ECM internally. Letter D MAF Signal.

The safest way to test these circuits, and the method I always use, is using a wire piercing probe. (click here to see a picture of this tool). Using this probe, I don't have to disconnect the MAF Sensor's connector to probe the front of the female terminal and possibly risk damaging it. Independent of the method you use, be careful not to damage the wire or the female terminal. Take all safety precautions.

First Things First

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1/2 Previous image Enlarge Next image You're starting point (in testing the MAF Sensor) is to see if it's dirty. Why? Well, because checking to see if this MAF Sensor is Dirty (Contaminated) is so easy on these Nissan vehicles. Not only that, you just might save yourself some time by cleaning it first (if it's dirty, that is). If the MAF Sensor is dirty, then TEST 1 will show you how to clean it. Go to TEST 1.

TEST 1: Checking for a Dirty (Contaminated) MAF Sensor

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1/2 Previous image Enlarge Next image The very first thing to do is to remove the Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) Sensor from its housing and eyeball the two 'hot-wires' in the MAF Sensor. The two hot-wires are normally an off-white to a light gray color, so if they're dirty (contaminated) they will be covered in what appears to be a black fuzz. We can't just use any type of solvent to clean the MAF Sensor with. Here are a couple of very important guidelines on what to use:

1. An Electronics Spray Cleaner can be used. a. You can buy it at your local autoparts store (Autozone, Pepboys, O'Reilly, etc). b. You can buy it at your local electronics store (Radio Shack, Fry's, etc). 2. Or you can buy a MAF Sensor cleaning spray. Yes, there is one designed just for cleaning MAF Sensors. a. This cleaner is made by CRC Industries and its part number is: 05110. b. You can buy it at your local autoparts store (Autozone, Pepboys, O'Reilly, etc). 3. Don't use carburator or brake clean spray or gasoline. a. These solvents will leave a residue on the wires that will attract dust/dirt and you're back to square one in a few weeks or months. b. Not to mention the harsh solvent can damage the MAF Sensor's electronics. 4. Also, don't attempt to physically clean the sensor with anything (like a cotton swab) or you may break the wires. If the MAF Sensor hot-wires were not dirty (contaminated), then re-install the MAF Sensor back onto its housing and go to TEST 2. If the MAF Sensor hot-wires were dirty (contaminated), clean per the suggestion given above. Then re-install the MAF Sensor back onto its housing and road test your Nissan to see if the issue has been solved. If the issue was not solved... then further testing is required, go to TEST 2.

TEST 2: Testing The Power Circuit

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1/2 Previous image Enlarge Next image The very first thing that we'll do is check that the MAF Sensor is receiving 12 volts. The procedure I recommend for you to use (to accomplish all of the tests below) is to use a test probe that pierces thru' the wire's insulation (click here to see a picture of this tool). DO NOT insert anything into the female terminal.

Whatever method you use, the key here is not to damage the female terminal or the wire. Again, be careful. Use common sense and take all necessary safety precautions. 1. 2. Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode. Do not disconnect MAF Sensor Connector from the MAF Sensor. 3. With the RED multimeter test lead and an appropriate tool, probe the MAF Sensor Connector's B circuit as shown in the photo. 4. With the BLACK lead of the multimeter probe BATT (-) negative terminal. 5. Turn Key On with the Engine Off. You should see 12 Volts on the multimeter. Do you have 12 volts? CASE 1: The Multimeter registered 12 Volts -All is good in the neighborhood, GO TO TEST 3. CASE 2: The Multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts -The MAF Sensor is not the problem. Without this voltage the MAF Sensor will not work.

TEST 3: Testing The Ground Circuit

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1/2 Previous image Enlarge Next image In the previous test we checked that the Sensor was receiving 12 Volts. Now we'll check that the MAF Sensor is getting a good ground. This Ground is provided by the ECM internally. Be careful and take extreme care not to short-circuit this wire to ground or power as you're probing it.

You can test this circuit with the connector connected to MAF Sensor or not. 1. 2. Turn key to the OFF Position. Put the Multimeter in VOLTS DC mode. 3. With the BLACK multimeter test lead and a wire-piercing-probe, probe the MAF sensor connector's C circuit as shown in the photo. 4. Connect RED lead to the BATT (+) positive terminal. 5. Turn the Ignition Switch to the RUN position. You should see a voltage of 12 Volts. Do you have that? CASE 1: The Multimeter registered 12 Volts -All is still good in the neighborhood.Go to Test 4. CASE 2: The Multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts -The MAF sensor is not the problem. Without a ground in this circuit, the MAF Sensor will not work.

TEST 4: Testing The MAF Signal

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1/2 Previous image Enlarge Next image Now that the basics have been checked, we'll check the MAF signal coming out of the sensor and going to the ECM. Here's a little background information to help you understand what you'll be doing in this test step. In a nutshell, the MAF Sensor measures the amount of air the engine is breathing and converts this measurement into a DC Voltage signal the PCM (Powertrain Control Module=Fuel Injection Computer) can use to calculate Fuel Injection. Specifically, the air that the engines breathes at idle (lets say an idle of 800 RPM's) is less than the air the engine needs at 2,700 RPM's. Therefore, the DC Voltage Signal the MAF Sensor will output to the PCM is less at idle than at 2,700 RPM. The important thing to know when verifying the MAF Signal is not to look for a specific MAF Signal Voltage reading a specific RPM but to verify that the DC Voltage signal rises smoothly

when the engine is accelerated and returns to its initial DC readings when the engine returns to its idle. The two most common results you'll get from a BAD Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) Sensor. are: 1) NO VOLTAGE SIGNAL AT ALL for the MAF Signal output or 2) erratic voltages that don't correspond to the amount of air the engine is breathing as you accelerate or decelerate the engine. In case you're wondering, the working DC Voltage range of the MAF Signal is between .5 and 4.5 Volts. At idle the average voltage will be abut .9 to 1.6 volts depending on engine idle conditions. At around 2500 RPMs, you should a Voltage of 1.7 to 2.3 Volts DC.

OK, Here's the Test

Start the engine and let it reach it's normal operating temperature. You'll be using the Voltage reading you will obtain at idle as a base to diagnose the MAF Sensor. The MAF Sensor must be connected to its connector to perform this test. 1. With the key in the OFF position. 2. With a suitable tool connected to the RED multimeter lead, probe the D circuit of the MAF Sensor connector shown in the photo. 3. Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode. 4. Connect the BLACK lead to the Battery (-) Negative Terminal. 5. Start the already warmed up engine. 6. Note the Volts reading on your multimeter at idle. This reading may be stable (with only small fluctuations) or unstable with very extreme fluctuations. No matter what the instability in the reading, this will be your base reading. 7. Accelerate the engine as you watch the multimeter's Voltage readings. 8. The Voltage numbers should correspond to the amount of acceleration. 9. Repeat this as often as you need to verify that the Voltage numbers on the multimeter rise smoothly every single time. 10. If the MAF Sensor is good, these readings will not spike up and down crazily but will correspond to the amount of air the engine is breathing at the different RPMs you're accelerating the engine to. Did the signal rise smoothly with each increase in engine acceleration and stay steady at idle? CASE 1: The Multimeter registered the indicated Voltage -The MAF Sensor is functioning correctly. CASE 2: The Multimeter DID NOT register the indicated Voltage -The MAF Sensor is defective. Replace MAF Sensor.