1.

ABOUT THE GROUP

Vardhman Group is a leading textile conglomerate in India having a turnover of $700 mn. Spanning over 24 manufacturing facilities in five states across India, the Group business portfolio includes Yarn, Greige and Processed Fabric, Sewing Thread, Acrylic Fibre and Alloy Steel. Vardhman Group manufacturing facilities include over 8,00,000 spindles, 65 tons per day yarn and fibre dyeing, 900 shuttleless looms, 90 mn meters per annum processed fabric, 33 tons per day sewing thread, 18000 metric tons per annum acrylic fibre and 100,000 tons per annum special and alloy steel. Vardhman has evolved through history from a small beginning in 1965 into a modern textile major under the dynamic leadership of its chairman, S.P.Oswal. His vision and insight has given Vardhman an enviable position in the textile industry. Under his leadership, Vardhman is efficiently using resources to innovate, diversify, integrate and build its diverse operati ons into a dynamic modern enterprise.

1.1 MISSION

Vardhman aims to be world class textile organization producing diverse range of products for the global textile market. Vardhman seeks to achieve customer delight through excellence in manufacturing and customer service based on creative combination of state-of-the-art technology and human resources. Vardhman is committed to be responsible corporate citizen.

1.2 PHILOSOPHY

1.1. Faith in bright future of Indian textiles and hence continued expansion in areas which we know best. 1.2. Total customer focus in all operational areas.

1.3. Product to be of best available quality for premium market segments through TQM and Zero Defect Implementation in all functional areas. 1.4. Global orientation targeting atleast 20% production for exports. 1.5. Integrated diversification/product range expansion. 1.6. World-class manufacturing facilities with most modern R&D and process technology. 1.7. Faith in individual potential and respect for human values. 1.8. Encouraging innovation for constant improvements to achieve excellence in all functional areas. 1.9. Accepting change as a way of life. 1.10. Appreciating our role as a responsible corporate citizen.

1.3 HISTORY
The industrial city of Ludhiana, located in the fertile Malwa region of Central Punjab is otherwise known as the "Manchester of India". Within the precincts of this city is located the Corporate headquarters of the Vardhman Group, a household name in Northern India. The Vardhman Group, born in 1965, under the entrepreneurship of Late Lala Rattan Chand Oswal has today blossomed into one of the largest Textile Business houses in India. At its inception, Vardhman had an installed capacity of 14,000 spindles, today; its capacity has increased multifold to over 8 lacs spindles. In 1982 the Group entered the sewing thread market in the country which was a forward integration of the business. Today Vardhman Threads is the second largest producer of sewing thread in India. In 1990, it undertook yet another diversification - this time into the weaving business. The grey fabric weaving unit at Baddi (HP), commissioned in 1990 with a capacity of 20,000 meters per day, has already made its mark as a quality producer of Grey poplin, sheeting, shirting in the domestic as well as foreign market. This was followed by entry into fabric processing by setting up Auro Textiles at Baddi and Vardhman Fabric at

Budhni,Madhya Pradesh. Today the group has 900 shuttleless looms and has processing capacity of 90mn meters fabrics/annum. In the year 1999 the Group has added yet another feather to its cap with the setting up of Vardhman Acrylics Ltd., Bharuch (Gujarat) which is a joint venture in Acrylic Fibre production undertaken with Marubeni and Exlan of Japan. The company also has a strong presence in the markets of Japan, Hong Kong, Korea, UK and EU in addition to the domestic market. Adherence to systems and a true dedication to quality has resulted in obtaining the coveted ISO 9002/ ISO 14002 quality award which is the first in Textile industry in India and yet another laurel to its credit.

1.4 LINE OF BUSINESS (VARDHMAN GROUP)

1.5 AN INSIGHT INTO THE LOGO

The FLAME signifies the growth of each and every individual associated with it whether he or she is a worker, an employee, share holder or a customer.

The STICK symbolizes cotton, which is basic raw material of the core product of Vardhman Group.

The V stands for Vardhman Group.

1.6 ACHIEVEMENT

The Padma Bhushan award has been conferred to Sh. S.P. Oswal (CMD, Vardhman Group) by The President of India, Ms. Pratibha Patil at Rashtrapti Bhawan on 31st March, 2010.

2. ABOUT- VARDHMAN NISSHINBO GARMENTS COMPANY LIMITED

Vardhman Textiles Limited has entered into a Joint Venture agreement with Japan based Nisshinbo Textiles Inc. by the name of Vardhman Nisshinbo Garments Company Limited. The equity participation of Vardhman and Nisshinbo would be in the ratio of 51:49. Nisshinbo is a world class textile manufacturer with comprehensive operations including spinning, weaving, knitting, finishing and sewing.

The total manufacturing capacity of the project shall be about 1.8 million pieces per annum. This venture of Vardhman is a step towards a gradual integration of our Textile Value Chain to meet the clothing requirements of the higher end customers in domestic and international market. The estimated capital cost of the project is Rs. 30 crores which will be financed partly from equity contribution by joint venture partners and partly bydebt.

The joint venture company will supply majority of its production for international markets through Nisshinbo. The Joint Venture Company shall also manufacture shirts for supply to the domestic brands. Nisshinbo shall also provide technical assistance for setting up the facilities and for the manufacturing operations.

The Foundation Stone of the project was laid on 21st August, 2009 at Phase D-95, Phase VIII, Focal Point, Ludhiana. Mr. Takeo Shimura, Vice President, Mr. Masatsugu Ohno, Manager, Textile Fabrics Division and Mr. Masami Tsuji, Manager, Global Operation Section from Nisshinbo Textiles Inc., Japan specially came to attend the ceremony.

The Project will provide direct employment to about 600 people.

2.1 PRODUCT PROFILE

Vardhmans product range includes Mens Formal shirts. While the phase II is still under process to be in action the industry has got orders from major buyers. Later it will have ladies formal wear also as its product.

2.2 MAJOR BUYERS

Success of a business depends entirely on the understanding the buyers' needs & satisfying the same fully. Infrastructure, Plant & Machinery, Expertise of highly skilled & qualified professionals & commitment to quality have earned it a high degree of trust to its valuable buyers. Its major Buyers include:BLACKBERRYS REID & TAYLOR ARROW TURTLE RAYMONDS TMW SHOPPER STOP

2.3 SPECIAL ATTRACTIONS:

State of art machines specialized for Dress Shirt Manufacturing Imported from Germany, Japan, China, USA, Taiwan, Denmark etc.

CAD system for Making Marker (Gerber) Automated Spreading machine (Gerber) Specialized Pinning and Cutting machine for Checks and Stripe Shirts (Ngai Shing, Eastman)

Specialized machine for Fusing (Veit Keinneggeser, Kobe) Specialized machine for Press collar and cuff (Ngai Shing) Latest, High Speed and automated stitching machines (Juki) Specialized Steam Press (Naomoto) Specialized pressing on Body press (Veit Keinneggeser) Specialized machine for tape Fusing for Non Iron Shirts (PMM)

MANUFACTURING USPs

Fusing Machine Flat bed Machines Tape Sewing Machines Tape Fusing Machines Automates

-- Kobe -- Naomoto -- Juki/Ngai Shing -- PMM/Ngai Shing/Veit Kannegiesser -- Ngai Shing -- Naomoto

Baking Machine

3. UNIQUE SELLING PREPOSITION

WRINKLE FREE MENS FORMAL SHIRTS Liquid Ammonia Treatment

Special Resin Formulation

Meticulously Sewn Products

The Worlds Highest Quality Non Iron Shirt is born

3.1 LIQUID AMMONIA TREATMENT

The surface tension and viscosity of liquid ammonia is lower than water. Therefore, when soaked in liquid ammonia, cotton fibre instantaneously swells, forms a circular shape and becomes twist-free. As a result, cotton fabrics (1) Become harder to shrink and WRINKLE, (2) Raise resilience, and (3) Become soft and strong. By giving this treatment in the phase prior to finishing, diversified finishing methods so far considered to impossible for cotton will become feasible.

A typical example is that liquid ammonia treatment will provide no-iron quality (wrinkle-resistant properties not requiring ironing after washings). Resin treatment is generally employed to give no-iron quality, but this method has the drawback of making cotton fiber weak and hard. However, the use of liquid ammonia treatment makes cotton strong and soft prior to resin treatment and will offset this drawback.

Liquid Ammonia Treatment Exhibits outstanding effect on Morphological Stabilization.

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BASIC DIFFERENCE

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4. ORGANISATION CHART

CHAIRMAN

COMPANY SECRETARY

G.M (Operation)
MARKE TING EXECU PURCH ASE EXECU MERCHAN DISING OFFICER PURCHASE OFFICER

VICE PRESIDENT/COMMERCIAL HEAD

HEAD ACCOUNTANT

SENIOR MANAGER
JUNIOR ACCOUNTANTS

HR MANAGER I.R OFFICER

MANAGER OPERATIONS
IE & PLANNING EXECUTIV I.E

HEAD STORES

PRODUC TION EXECUT

QUALITY EXECUTIVE

ASSISTANT MANAGER FINISHING FINISHING OFFICER

MAINTENAN -CE & ENGINEERI NG CHIEF FOREMAN

FABRIC STORE

QUALITY OFFICER

TRIM STORE

OFFICE PRODUCT

SUPERVISOR

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5. Layout of the Ground Floor

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6. Layout of the First Floor

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7. DEPARTMENTS IN VARDHMAN NISSHINBO GARMENTS CO. Ltd.

Merchandising Department Fabric Store Fabric Inspection Fabric quality control inspection report Accessories & Trim store Washing Department Cad and Sampling Department Production Planning Department Industrial Engineering Department Spreading &Cutting Department Sewing Department Finishing &Packing Department Quality Department

Warehouse Other departments

Maintenance Sales and marketing Finance and administration Fabric sourcing and purchase MIS

HRM
We will now give details about each of the important departments one by one.

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7.1 MERCHANDISING
Who is a merchandiser? A merchandiser is primarily a coordinator. His job can be broken down into several functions. Merchandisers study buying trends and the buyer's needs. They collect specifications from the buyers and coordinate with fashion designers to develop a product, which is market specific. Basic Roles of a Merchandiser The role of merchandiser is to plan, coordinate and execute an order program within the framework of cost, quality, delivery and service. His main responsibilities can be summarized as follows: a. Understanding your customer and your customer's customer b. Managing downstream supply chain effectively and c. Defining your competencies in terms of customer satisfaction Knowledge base required by a Merchandiser for achieving these responsibilities includes the learning of: i. ii. iii. iv. v. vi. vii. viii. Trend and fashion movement; Forecast interpretation and range development Product development and feasibility Processing and finishing; Cost and price; Quality assurance and control Delivery procedure; Supply chain and logistics management; Government policy, procedures and operations (for Export and Import) Market knowledge; Customer profile and behavioral change Buyer coordination, communication and feedback

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Skill-sets required by a Merchandiser to achieve the same are:

1. Pattern making and measurement grading, Sample development and sewing operations 2. IT tools, Marketing communication 3. Team management and coordination, Leadership, Personality development 4. Human resource development, Managerial and functional skills. 5. Quality testing, approvals.

A merchandiser is the Driver who has logical and analytical thinking with intuitive and expressive capabilities to transform the entire range into 3D Merchandise.

Merchandising in Apparel Industry can be classified as follows: EXPORT MERCHANDISING 1) In an Export Production 2) In a Buying House DOMESTIC MERCHANDISING:
1) For the domestic Indian Market

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FABRIC DEPTT. SHIPPING DEPTT. Q.A. DEPTT.

FINISHING DEPTT.

ACCESSORIES DEPTT.

MERCHANDISER

CUTTING DEPTT

MERCHAND I-SING DEPTT.

SPREADING DEPTT

INDUSTRIAL ENGG. DEPTT

ORDER ANALYSIS DEPTT.

PRODCTION DEPTT.

In the company :

The Merchandising department is directly reporting to the Marketing department and controls and coordinates the activities of the Sampling department as well.

The Merchandising department basically acts like a bridge between the buyer and the factory. Its basic duty is to book orders from the buyers and make sure that the orders

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are executed according to the buyers requirements in terms of style, construction, quality and quantity. This is done by accurate communication between the buyer and the factory. Hence the merchandiser plays the part of communicating in the form of minute details, the requirements of the particular style. Flow of Work done by merchandising Department

Inquiry From the Buyer Sample and Tech pack from buyer for development Sample Development and Patterns Forwarding Tech Pack & Style details to IE For Style Study Forwarding Tech Pack And Style Details to PPC tentative planning Sample Follow up and sending to buyer for confirmation Sample Comments from Buyer and forwarding to all the related departments Order Confirmation Making Time and Action Calender and BOM and forwarding to all related departments Making Order File Follow Up with the production Providing Packing List to Finishing for carton Packing

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Basic activities required to be done on a day to day basis regarding the order execution:
S. No. 1 ACTIVITY Receiving the order from Buyer and other relevant samples and product information. Giving sample material requirements to sourcing teams. Follow-up of sample production and dispatch to buyers. Follow-up of sample approvals from Buyers and notifying comments if any to respective teams. 5 Communicate to Buyer on the variation in specs, materials etc and follow-up for approval prior to the bulk production. 6 Conducting meetings required for the order preparation and order execution.

2 3 4

Activities required to be done regarding the information flow to the relevant departments through technical folders, style details:
S.No. 1 ACTIVITY Conduct Order clarity meeting and define the T & A (Time and Action Calendar) across throughout processes. Release of material requirements to sourcing function. Organize to dispatch the samples to buyer and approvals on time. Ensure availability of product information and approvals to meet the PCDs. Handing over the folders and style information to PPC and IE for Calculations and Tentative Planning Monitoring the production status and timely alert on deviations.

2 3 4 5 6

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MERCHANDISING INPUT
Fabric Store

OUTPUT

Material Received Report Fabric Inspection

Fabric Swatches against the order and the order qty Fabric delivery schedule

Fabric Inspection Report Quality Garment Performance Report Sample Garment Performance Report Trim Testing Report PPC Techpack and style details Trim details Order qty (size wise and color wise) Time and action calendar IE Order qty (size wise and color wise) Time and action calendar

Sample feasibility Information related to the extra manpower/machine equipments required against the particular style Information related to the extra manpower/machine equipments required to meet the target delivery

style details specially garment construction details

Comments on the sample related to the feasibility Accessory Store(trim store is same with fabric and material store) Trim details with sample trims to match the bulk Trims delivery schedule

Swatch card with remarks and defect % Sampling Dpt.

Sample as per the target dates Sample comments from Quality

Patterns Fabric for sampling

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dpt. trims for sampling Techpack Spec sheet Target dates for sampling Buyer comments against the sample DETAILED PROCESS ACTIVITIES OF MERCHANDISING SECTION

1. ORDER CONFIRMATION AND FOLLOW UP: This department is the main link between the factory and the buyers. The buyers rely on the merchandisers to provide them with the information regarding the capacity available, the style feasibility and the setting up of delivery dates for the shipment. This process involves receiving the initial order details from the buyers representative and communicating through E-mail and telephonic conversations. The merchandising team keeps the buyer updated about all the developments taking place regarding the order. The order booking and the order confirmation details are received by the merchandising team who further transfers this information to the other departments. 2. PREPARATION OF BILL OF MATERIALS: The merchandising team receives the details of all the style features in the particular order. This also includes the following : Fabric quality details Thread Details Finish Details Accessories like beads, sequins, laces etc. Prints and Embroidery Trims like buttons, zippers Wash care labels

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Size labels Brand labels Packing Material details Hangtags Besides receiving this information from the buyer, the merchandisers also receive the Fabric consumption per garment for each size from the sampling section, Thread consumption per garment from the Planning department and the accessories requirement per garment from the sampling department. Based on this information received, the merchandiser prepares a Bill of Materials (BOM). This has the complete details of the requirement of all the parts going into the making of the garment. Each of the material is stated above is mentioned per garment. 3. PREPARATION OF TIME and ACTION CALENDER/PLAN; The department prepares a tentative Time and Action Calendar for the activities like Sample development Sample approval Pre Production sample approvals Cutting start date Sewing start date Embroidery start date Finishing start date Shipment dispatch date. The planned and actual dates of the TNA are entered into the sheet as and when the activities are carried out. Any deviations are looked into and the decisions are made. The buyer representatives are also regularly updated about the developments on the TNA and the order status.

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4. COORDINATING THE SAMPLE DEVELOPMENT PROCESS: The merchandising department plans and coordinates the activities of the sampling department. The sampling section is given the TECHPAK which contains all the relevant details. The samples to be made are planned in the merchandising department and the plan is given to the sampling section. The samples are sent to the merchandising department for initial approvals according to the spec sheet provided by the buyer. The samples are sent to the buyer for approvals only when they are approved by the merchandising department. The sampling department is also informed by the merchandising about the types of samples required by the buyer. The merchandiser receives the buyer comments for all the samples and makes it sure it is informed to the sampling and the necessary changes made in all the required areas. 5. INTERPRETING THE TECHPAK / TECHNICAL FOLDER PROVIDED BY THE BUYER: The Technical Folder/Techpack is the reference for each department whenever it comes to any information about the buyer requirements. The buyer states all his requirements in a very precise manner which is contained in this document. The following are the common details which are found in the Technical Folders of all the buyers: Size wise quantity Color Wise Quantity Destination wise quantity Dispatch dates for all the lots and the quantity for the lots Total Order quantity Cutting Details

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Construction Sheet Finishing and Packing Details Specification Sheet Measurement Chart Fabric Details 1. GSM of all the types of fabrics used in the garment 2. Fabric construction 3. Fiber types 4. Fabric width 5. Fabric/garment finish type and hand feel description 6. Buyer nominated supplier (in certain cases) 7. Fabric Swatch

Trims Details 1. Button Size 2. Threads used 3. Thread tkt no. 4. Labels details 5. Trims Swatches

Accessory Details

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7.2 FABRIC STORES

Fabric Store maintains the fabric coming from the manufacturing facility at Baddi as well the other suppliers. It enters the data regarding the inward and outward movement of the fabric in the specified quantity, both to and from the departments.

It stores the fabric in such a way so as to make the identification of the fabric rolls easy and the person issuing the rolls does not waste time searching for them. They also receive the unused fabric not required any further from the production floor. Their responsibility is to maintain the fabric till a suitable time, because the same fabric can be used to create samples for the buyers in case the fabric meets the required quality. As soon as the fabrics are received by the stores, each roll is checked for width and length is mentioned in the reports. In case of large variance between the mentioned width and the observed width, the supplier is informed.

F A B R I C S T O R E

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Below is the flow of work in the fabric store:-

Fabric Recieving

Fabric deliver schedule from merchandiser Fabric In-house Fabric Un-loading variance in qty report(if applicable) Width checking report Inspection sorting report Goods Recieve note to merchandiser Rolls Alloted with roll card and alloted to racks with bin cards

Swatches

Planning Merchandiser 50 cm across width for csv and shrinkage(10%) 1" x 1" from each roll for shade matching

Inspection

Fabric Inspection Centre to Selvedge Variation Fusing Shrinkage & Bonding Strength Heat Shrinkage Shade Batching for the whole lot Stocking of inspection rolls to the alloted racks

Fabric Issue

Fabric Requisition Slip from cutting Fabric Issue Rements recieved from cutting with OCR Stocking of remenents

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Tracking method followed in the stores:-

Currently the system being followed is that of using a BIN CARD. All the details mentioned in the Bin Card are filled up in the card and the card is stuck on each roll of fabric. This is in the form of a hard paper sheet pre printed with all the parameters. Each roll can be distinctly identified by having a look at the Bin Card. Whenever any person is sent to issue a roll, he just has to read the basic details mentioned on the card. The fabric is stacked in the racks according to buyer.

FABRIC STORE INPUT (activities and material OUTPUT(activities and material outward from store to

inward to fabric store from different different departments) departments) Merchandising

Fabric Swatches against the order Material Received Report and the fabric details Fabric delivery schedule Fabric Packing List Bills Cutting Fabric Fusing Inspection Report Supplier Report about the variance in quantity and quality Remnants Payments Swatch files for thread order placement.

Fabric Requisition Slip Remnants Order Completion Report Planning

Swatch and fabric Details for planning

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Quality Fabric Inspection Report Shade Batching Report Centre To Selvedge Report Heat Shrinkage Report Fusing Shrinkage Report

Accounts Bills for payment

Cheques for payments

Records Maintained in the store:1. Packing List from the supplier:- This Report consist of the fabric received details with the invoice quantity, color details, etc 2. Goods Received note copy: - This is made by the fabric store in charge and sent to the merchandiser on the receipt of the fabric and one copy keeps with him. 3. Width Inspection Report: - On the receipt of fabric with of each roll is checked and a report id maintained. 4. Stock Report: - This report is maintained as a soft copy for the details of the stock present in the fabric store and updated time to time. 5. Fabric Inspection Report: - This Report is maintained in the stores for the inspection of the fabric. 6. Fusing Shrinkage Report: - This report is maintained for the Fusing shrinkage of the fusing received. 7. Width Checking Report: - This report is maintained for the width checking of the fabric received. 8. Inspection Sorting Report: - The rolls which are to be inspected for the whole lot are sorted and its details are maintained in this report.

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9. Heat Shrinkage Report: - This report is maintained for the heat shrinkage of the fabric received. 10. CSV Report: - Centre to selvedge inspection is done and maintained in this report. 11. Shade Card: - This is made for the shade batching of the lot. 12. Consolidated Inspection Report Copy: - This is the consolidated report for on order which is made and send to different departments and one copy is maintained by store.

INSTRUMENTS USED IN THE FABRIC STORE:

Fabric Cutter For GSM

Weighing Machine to Calculate GSM

Instrument to match shades of various roles

NAGAI SHING Fabric Inspection Machine

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FABRIC INSPECTION DEPARTMENT

The processes that happen in Inspection Department are: 1) Receive fabric from store with Lab report. 2) Cut 1 meter fabric from each lot / color for lab tests. 3) Cut 6 piece across the width, mark L & R, and check fabric shading, end to end. 4) Check as per 4-point system, it colored stickers for different types of defects: Red Sticker Blue Sticker Green Sticker Arrow Sticker 5) Make the Report. 6) Issue for cutting, if both Lab & Audit reports are O.K. 7) Keep cuttings for reference. Weaving Defect Processing Defect Other Defects Centre-Selvedge shade variation.

4 - Point System of Inspection

10 % inspection of fabric is done, on the basis of 4-point system. Defect Length 0-3" 3" - 6" 6" - 9" 9"- 1 m 1 2 3 4 Green Yellow Orange Pink or Arrow Sticker Point Sticker Used

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Allowed defect point is 40 points per 100 m of fabric. If it is more than 40 points (per 100m), the fabric is rejected (generally). From inspection area, fabric is sent to Quality Assurance Department along with the Inspection Report. Q.A. Department decides whether to use the fabric or reject it. Approval is also taken for shade variation within different lots from the respective DMM. After fabric has been checked, different colored tapes are put on their Packs to indicate their status: Fabric Pack is O.K. Hold the fabric (Decision to be taken by Q.C. Department) Reject the fabric pack -- Green Tape -- Orange Tape -- Red Tape

Types of Defects
Different types of defects have been identified for different types of fabrics: Printed Fabric Design Cut Choc Up Crease Color Variation Stains Color Spray Holes Cuts Hard Solid Dyed Hardness Color Variation Streaks Holes Stains Color Fly Marks Haziness Center-Selvedge Yarn Dyed Weaving Defect Patta Holes Stains Hardness Side-Selvedge Others

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7.3 ACCESSORY AND TRIMS STORE

The Accessories and trims store serves the same purpose as that of the Fabric store. The difference being that it performs all the same functions for storing accessories and trims. The store provides space for storing all the kind of accessories. The incoming entries are made for the materials.

Flow of work in the Accessory Store:Material Delivery Schedule from Merchandiser Material recieved Quantity checking against the packing list and Invoice Report of variance in auantity to the supplier Goods Recieve note to Merchendiser Accessory Inspection

Stocking of the material according to category and Order Material Requisition Slip from the different Departments Issue Material

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TRIMS AND ACCESSORY STORE INPUT (activities and material OUTPUT(activities and material outward from store to

inward to fabric store from different different departments) departments) Merchandising

Trim swatches against the order and Material Received Report the order qty Trims delivery schedule Supplier Report about the variance in quantity and quality Payments

Trims and Accessories Stationary Furniture Packing List Bills Cutting

Material Requisition Slip

Allied Material Inspection Report

Sewing Trims, Buttons etc Issued Threads, buttons, trims, etc

Threads, requisition Trims

Finishing and packing material Issued trims and packing material

requisition Accounts Bills for payment

Cheques for payments

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Reports Maintained at the material store:1. Material Delivery Schedule 2. Copy of packing List 3. Inspection Report 4. Material Requisition Slip copy

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7.4 WASHING DEPARTMENT

The washing department at Vardhman Nisshinbo garments is not really pronounced.

The machine used for washing is a Samsung machine. Quantity- 1 Capacity- 6.2 kg The machine has a : 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Wash selector Wash timer Water selector Cycle selector Spin dry time

The purpose for this machine is not washing post sewing and for finishing purpose, rather the washing machine is used only when specifically asked by the buyer while sampling to perform tests for shrinkage, fastness and so on.

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7.5 SAMPLING AND CAD DEPARTMENT

FLOW CHART

SAMPLING

Receiving Sampling Indent and Control Sheet from PPC

Pattern Making

Digitizing/Manual Marker

Making a Sample

Not Approved Approval for Buyers sample

Approved Grading & Final model development NotApproved Develop/Prepare Size Set Samples Approved by Designer/Customer Sample can be taken for Production.

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CAD TO PRODUCTION
Receive Production order + BOM from Store along with design approval card, fabric inspection report and batching report

Check for availability size set Refer back Not In to PatternOk charge

Available

Not Ok

Check Corresponding Model / Measure. Chart

Ok Lay Plan and Marker Making, Ratio sheet preparation

Issue to cutting

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INTRODUCTION

The Sampling Department works out to make the required samples with the given specifications supplied by the buyer. As already discussed previously, the

merchandising team for the particular buyer coordinates the sample development process. The samples are developed on the basis of the details provided by the merchandiser to the Head of the Sampling section. Here, the samples are developed at various stages e.g. Proto Sample, Pre Production sample, etc. according to the buyers requirements, the types of samples are decided. All the buyers and all the styles do not require the same types and same number of samples. The CAD department is functional at a number of stages, in coordination with many departments as and when required which is mainly at the time of sampling, along with the pattern making department. And second, when the bulk production starts. Its performs a variety of functions such as: Digitizing Grading Cut order planning Marker making Marker plotting etc.

KEY TERMS:

PATTERN: This is the hard pattern produced on a pattern paper by using the measurement chart or the sizes from the sampling indent by the master pattern maker. Some standard patterns are stored for the reference of measurements in the future.

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DIGITIZING:

A DIGITISER Getting the soft patterns form the hard patterns on the paper using a Digitiser table so as to grade the pattern for various sizes (Base size:40 cm/42 cm) and make a marker plan. MARKER PLOTTING

GERBER PLOTTER Plotter is used for plotting the marker on the paper.

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SIZE SET: The set of all samples (one from each size requirement) is referred as a size set.

LAY PLANNING: Size wise planning of lays in order to have maximum cutting efficiency and minimum fabric wastage is called lay planning. Number of lay plans decides the number of markers to be prepared for spreading and the subsequent cutting. Following points should be taken into consideration while going for a lay planning 1. Number of lay plans should be as less as possible. 2. Smallest and Largest sizes should be clubbed together in one plan in order to have minimum fabric wastage. BASC ACTIVITIES REQUIRED TO BE DONE FOR PATTERN AND SAMPLE DEVELOPMENT S.No. 1 2 3 ACTIVITY Tech Pack is received from Merchandiser The details of dimensions are studied The pattern dimensions are worked out for cutting by giving stitching allowances to get final dimensions as required after stitching 4 The base Pattern is prepared on thick paper board depending on the sample size specified by the customer. 5 The following details are written on the Pattern Date: Style No. Buyer: 6 The proto sample is prepared by cutting the fabric as per base sample, and stitching the garment with available fabric. 7 The proto sample is sent to Customer through Merchandising for approval.

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The comments received are studied and second proto sample is prepared if needed and sent for approval again.

After getting approval from marketing, Size Sets is prepared for all the sizes in the Tech-Pack.

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Stitched Size Set samples are forwarded to Customer for approval through Marketing.

11 12 13

The feedback received is studied. After the approval of Size Set, Pre-Production Samples are prepared. The CAD Marker for the approved Pattern is prepared for all sizes as given in Tech Pack.

ACTIVITIES REQUIRED TO BE DONE BY THE CAD SECTION IN SAMPING DEPARTMENT

S.No. 1 2 3 4

ACTIVITY The Base Pattern is received from Pattern Master in Sampling section. The pattern is digitized on the digitizer The base pattern is graded according to the sizes Depending on the fabric type, the consumption Marker is made. a) If it is Solid, the marker is made in CAD b) If it is Checks or Stripes, it is given to Pattern Master to make Marker Manually and give consumption.

The CAD Requisition for Marker is give in the form of a specific format to get the following details Date: Style No. Buyer: Quantity:
Ratio

Width:

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 Remark: 6 7 8 The details are written on the pattern. The grading is verified and confirmed. After grading, size set is issued to Pattern Maker. Pattern Master shall check for the rest of the size.

CAD room consist one digitizer and one plotter. Plotter is used for plotting the marker on the paper. In this cad system, GERBER cad software is used. By using that software they used to develop the pattern paper required for cutting.

Patterns which are generally made are of 4 ways to 6 ways. Pattern master develops the pattern as per the size and the area requirement and tries to adjust them as close as possibly to increase the marker efficiency and plotter prints out the marker in A0 format which is cut at the point where the patterns end.

Then this paper is issued to the cutting department who used it for cutting with straight knife and band knife.

Company consists of one SAMPLING ROOM .

Working of sampling room:-

In this department marketing team receives order for a sample to be developed for the buyer. He send the specification sheet from the buyer to the sampling master who develops the pattern according to that specifications. once the patterns are approved by the buyer, the sampling team starts to cut the samples asked by the buying team. The no of samples depend upon the requirement of the buying team. Generally in VNGL, the no of samples required by the buyer is around 6-8.

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After the approval of initial samples with minor corrections demanded by the buyer, the sampling team goes for the Size Set samples which are generally the final samples. Once the size set get approved then order is placed and go ahead is given for the order to be placed in bulk.

SAMPLING AND CAD INPUT Merchandising Sample as per the target dates Sample comments from Quality dpt. OUTPUT

Patterns Fabric for sampling trims for sampling Techpack Spec sheet Target dates for sampling Buyer comments against the sample Sewing

Production Samples Cutting Marker & patterns for cutting PPC avg fabric consumption length for cutting plan and marker

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7.6 Production Planning and Control Department

The planning department has the responsibility of converting the orders booked by the merchant, to the production team for the easy execution of the order. Based on the TnA and the availability of the line the PPC team allocates the order on the production floor as which process has to be done at what time. The production is done in the section system with front, sleeve, collar, cuff & back as the preparatory section and one assembly section. The operators are dedicated to the each operation as per the capacity planning and delivery date of the order. Tech Pack and style details from the merchant and T n A

Style study for cutting, sewing & finishing or any out-house activity

Discusion with production department for the process SMV values for the style from IE department

Giving Feedback to merchandiser about sample feasibility

Daily Production report from the each department

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PPC INPUT Fabric Store Fabric Details(for trial fabric) Sewing Production Plan Cut off date Order Qty Cutting Cutting Plan Order Break up chart Cut off date Finishing Packing List Cut off date Merchandising Production Plan Order qty (for trial fabric) OUTPUT

Daily Production Report

Daily production Report

Daily Production Report

Techpack and style details Trim details Order qty (size wise and colour wise) Time and action calendar IE

Time values

Daily Production schedule

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DETAILED TERMS FOR PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL:

Receiving Order Clarity Detail from Merchant: The Planning receives the details of the order. Based on the information available, the order feasibility is worked out.

SMV Details from IE: The SMV analysis of the sewing styles is done by the IE department. The target for the styles is set up for each operation at the specific efficiency.

Order Clarity Details to Floor: The order clarity details i.e. the order quantity, delivery dates and the production details are passed on to the Floor by the Planning section.

Daily Order Status Report Each department has to submit the daily order status report to the department. The measures required to be taken if the order is not going on as expected can only come when the daily reports are available.

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7.7 INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING

The Central IE department is responsible for the preparation of the Operation Breakdown SMV analysis Improvement of work Methods Operator Grade Change on the basis of time study Thread Consumption sheet Style analysis and work aid requirements

Following are some of the main activities carried out by the industrial engineering department: Study of sample or Tech pack received from buyer and to make observation sheet. Feasibility study of sample with sewing head for availability of folders, attachments, templates, collar/cuff dies, seams & stitches etc. Preparation of time & action plan of orders (after their confirmation) keeping in mind the available resources of floor. Forwarding the requirements (eg: folders, dies, templates etc.) to the stores/marketing for any particular order. Preparation of instruction/detailing sheet. Preparation of complete order files which includes comment sheet, order quantity, cut quantity, BOM, instruction sheet, fabric swatches and distributing it to cutting, sewing, finishing,cad & sampling, planning and production manager. Distribution of paper patterns (ready) to all the parts sections for checking of inprocess production.

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Conducting pre-production meetings before start of every new order. Monthly Time study of all the operators, efficiency graph/comparison of operators, recommendation for grade change and promotion with consulting production team.

All the requisition slips are to be signed by section head. INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING INPUT Sewing OUTPUT

Daily production Report

Thread consumption sheet Work methods

Finishing Daily production Report Cutting Daily production Report PPC Daily Production schedule Merchandising Order qty (size wise and colour wise) Time and action calendar Sample feasibility Information related to the extra Time values work methods work methods

manpower/machine equipments required against the particular style style details specially garment Information related to the extra

construction details

manpower/machine equipments required to meet the target delivery

Comments on the sample related to the feasibility

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Management Daily Feedback Deviation Report of each day Internal Records Maintained Hourly Production Report Production Tally Sheets Time Study Sheets Skill Matrix Method Description Formats

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7.8 SPREADING AND CUTTING DEPARTMENT

PROCESS FLOW-CHART

RECEIPT OF FABRIC FROM STORES

RECEIPT OF LINING FROM STORES SPREADING BIAS CUTTING CAD MARKER (FP, NB)

WIDTH CHECKING CAD MARKER

SPREADING STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING

DIE CLICKING OF COLLAR (SKIN, PATCH), N BAND, CUFF, FRNT PLKT

PINNING BAND KNIFE CUTTING

SPOT FUSING OF COLLAR SKIN & PATCH

MEASUREMENT CHECKING OF TOP, MIDDLE AND BOTTOM PLY OF EACH LAY

BUNDLING & STICKERING

PARTS INSPECTION (FRONT, BACK, SLEEVE, YOKE) SPOT FUSING OF COLLAR, CUFF, FP

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FUSING OF COLLAR, CUFF, NECK BAND, FP AS PER STYLING

PARTS TO BE EMBROIDERED ARE SEPARATED AFTER CUTTING ON BAND KNIFE

REPLACEMENT / REDUCTION OF DEFECTIVE PIECES

EMBROIDERY (OUTSOURCED)

BUNDLING (SIZE WISE)

EMBROIDERY INSPECTION, SIZE WISE SEGREGETION

ISSUES TO SEWING MODULE

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INTRODUCTION
Cutting production consist of all the process activities involved in reducing the bulk material used in apparel in to the component parts making up the apparel. The cutting room is a combined section for spreading, cutting and ticketing/ bundling. This is just near to the lifts and stairs through which fabric rolls are carried for cutting on the floor. There is one spreading table of 20 meter length with one spreading machine with air flotation. The lay is cut by straight knife on the same table and the blocks are transferred to pinning table and then to band knife for final cutting and then to numbering table. There is separate section for spot fusing and machine fusing.

The basic process of cutting are :-

1. Marker Making :- marker making is the process of developing the jigsaw like diagram , which is superposed on the top of a group of superposed fabric plies as a guide for cutting these plies of fabric into the required component parts for making a garment. 2. Spreading:- spreading is the process of superposing fabric plies on a table in such a manner, which permits these fabric plies to be cut simultaneously into apparel component for further processing. 3. Chopping or Knifing:chopping is the process which actually cuts the fabric

material into the apparel component parts. Block chopping Pattern chopping Shading is the process of marking , ticketing, cut component for precision and sequence identification with respect to cut

4. Shading:-

shade matching 5. Sloping :-

component sequence in the spread. sloping is the process of re-spreading a stack of cut component for

pattern chopping.

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6. Bundling :- Bundling is the process of sorting and stacking ( with or without ties) cut components parts of apparels for further processing.

PROCESS FLOW
The cutting department receives fabric and lining from the stores, while referring to the inspection and shade batching report, as well as the design approval report. Along with the fabric, the cutting department also receives CAD markers from the CAD department, which includes the spreading report and the ratio details. Marker gives an idea about the lay length. There are basically two types of markers: for the main fabric, and for the lining (for FP (front placket) and NB (neck band)).

SPREADING - INTRODUCTION
OBJECTIVE :- The objective of spreading is to place the number of plies of fabric with respect to the dictation. The spreading tools and equipments are Spreading tables, spreading machine, shears, pins, and weight bars. length of the marker plan and as per production planning process

The requirement of spreading process :-

(a) Alignment of plies:Every ply should comprise at least the length and width of the marker plan , and should have the minimum extra possible outside the markers measurements. (b) Correct ply tension:All spreads should be made without tension or slack . A tight spread is one in which the fabric plies have been stretched during the spreading process , such a spread

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will contract its length after spreading, And will reduce measurements of the final garment. A slack spread possesses excess length within the stipulated ends of the spread. And garments components cut from the slack spread will tend to be oversized . Bowing:Bowing is the angular distortion of the filling yarn / threads in its traverse across the warp yarns / threads. This places conflicting stresses in fabric . These stresses create variations of slack and tightness in the spread. (c ) Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability :These two factors depend upon the type of fabric , pattern shape , and the availability of spreading equipments. The various types of fabrics in terms of surface design direction that are available are : 1. Either way (face to face) 2. One way Either way or one way Pattern shape : Symmetrical or Asymmetrical patterns. Spreading by hand or By a machine (d ) Shade sorting of cloth pieces:Lays commonly requires more than one roll of cloth and lays which include several colors normally require more than one roll of each color to achieve enough plies in total. And there is always shade variation in each color as fabric is always dyed in lots, and at the time of dyeing batch no of each lot are given , so at the time of fabric spreading fabric rolls should be sorted and given for spreading as per batch number given on each roll . It will reduce the shade variation problem in garments components at the time of cutting / stitching.

(e ) Elimination of fabric faults :-

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Fabric faults ( Flaws, holes , stains, etc. ) may be identified by the fabric supplier , and additional faults may be detected during the examination of fabrics before spreading . Fabric rolls are checked in the fabric department of the company .

Splicing :Splicing refers to the overlapping of two ends in a ply consisting of two or more pieces. This occurs when a damage in the fabric must be cut out or when two or more bolts are spread consecutively as one bolt. The overlap in every splice must always be great enough to permit every pattern section in the splice to be cut exactly as its pattern. A short overlap yields incompletely cut pattern section, and excess overlap would yield wastage . There are two types of splice used 1. Straight line splice 2. Interlock splice

Straight line splice: It refers to a vertical line , across the width of the spreading and cutting marker , on which the ends of the pattern sections abut on both sides of the line . The spreader notes such splice points with a single line on the table or paper . This will notify him that the overlap in a splice at this point should be about 2 on each side of the line.

Interlock splice :The interlock splice refers to a section where opposing ends of successive patterns in spreading marker interlock instead of meeting at a common vertical line across the width . It is marked in such a way that two straight lines are connected with two diagonal lines. The diagonal lines indicate the common area that must be overlapped to insure a perfectly cut outline for each pattern in the interlock . A extra of 2 fabric on each side is left .

(f ) Elimination of Static electricity :In spreading fabric plies ( especially man made fibers ) friction may increase the charge of static electricity in the fabric. Spreading operator will experience difficulty in

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spreading fabric plies neatly and can not align plies accurately nor create a compact spread. Friction may be reduced by increasing the humidity in the atmosphere of the cutting room , thus static electric charge will be discharge continuously through the atmosphere . In some cases it may be necessary to earth the lay. (g) Avoidance of distortion in the spread:A layer of glazed paper ,laid glazed side down , it is normally placed at the bottom of the spread . This helps to avoid disturbing the lowest plies of fabric in the spread when base plate of a straight knife passes underneath , and also give stability to the lay if it is to be moved on flotation table.

(h ) Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting :Cut edge of thermoplastic fiber fabrics may fuse together during cutting , if cutting knife becomes hot as a result of friction with the fabric. In this case , anti- fusion paper may be used in the same way as interleaving paper . It contains a lubricant which lubricates the knife blade as it passes through the spread , thus reducing the increase in

temperature of the blade arising from friction.

Followings are the two types of methods are used in industry for spreading the fabric. 1. Spreading by hand 2. Spreading by machines. Spreading by hand :In this method fabric is drawn from the package , If it is a roll , supported on a frame , and carried along the table where the end is secured by weights or clamps. Operators work back from the end , aligning the edges and ensuring that there is no tension and that there are no wrinkles. The ply is normally cut with hand shears or with a powered circular knife mounted on a frame.

Fabrics which are normally spread by hand are : Checks,

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Crosswise stripes Fabrics with regular repeating pattern Fabrics with repeating designs at regular intervals of a garment .

Spreading by Machines: Fully automatic Semi-Automatic

GERBER SPREADER

Machine Specifications: Machine Model no: - XLs50 Serial no: - 11117 Technical Specifications: 6. Spreading Speed :- 100m/min Running speed in the factory 30m/min Dead stroke speed is: - 100m/min 7. Cutting speed max: -200m/min Running speed: -70m/min.

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8.

Power consumption :-

It can be adjusted with three power systems Power 1 x 220v - 240v 3x220v - 240v 3x380v 440v Phase 1 3 3 Freq 50/60 50/60 50/60 Current 16/20 16 16

Running power system in the factory is: Power 3x380v 440v Phase 3 Freq 50/60 Current 16 A 9. Gerber Spreading takes generally 5-6 minutes in layering one complete roll of 200 meters. With layering of plotter paper and straight knife cutting takes 40-45 minutes for block cutting. Takes about 30 min for cutting with straight knife Spreading Table is of 24 x 2 m. No of blowers in the Spreading Table is 6.with power consumption of 1KWH Running load of spreading machine is 3.5KWH

10.

11. 12. 13. 14.

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Dimensions: Available Spreader width: 1. 2. 3. 1800mm/72 2000mm/80 2400mm/96

Running spreader width in the factory is: - 1800mm/72 Spreader weight: - 450 kg Max roll weight: -50 kg Running maximum roll weight in the factory is: - 31 kg 38 kg Max diameter of the roll 400mm/15.5 Running diameter of the roll is: - 8 10 Max ply height: - 350 mm Operational side left.

Extra Equipments that were there in the Gerber Spreader: Platform for flat folded fabric.

Roller for reversing. Smoothing roller Automatic cutting device

SPREADING: PROCESS FLOW

The width of the roll is checked and the roll is loaded on the Gerber Spreader. The machine is checked and set to run for a required length and speed, also the blade is checked for sharpness. Around 3 cm extra fabric is added to the lay length to avoid curling at edges.

Spreading is done according to cut order plan.

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The number of plies in every roll is noted down by the operator to make sure there is least amount of roll to roll shade variation.

If the lay is less than 10 m then it is shifted to other half of the spreading table to be cut by straight knife, and if the lay is more than 10 m, the lay is cut their only.

CUTTING INTRODUCTION

The objective of cutting is to separate fabric parts as replicas of the pattern pieces in the marker plan. In achieving this objective, certain requirements must be fulfilled.

1. Precision of cut:- Garments cannot be assembled satisfactorily, and they may not fit the body correctly, If they have not been cut accurately to the pattern shape. 2. Clean edges: - the raw edges of the fabric should not show fraying or snagging, these problem come from an imperfectly sharpened knife. 3. Unscorched,unfused edges:- the build up of heat in the knife blade comes from the friction of the blade passing through the fabric. This, in extreme cases , leads to scorching of the fabric, and more frequently , to the fusing of the raw edges of thermoplastic fiber fabrics, such as containing polyamide or polyester. The cutter can not separate individual plies from the pile of cut parts---as separation causes snagged edges and in any case the hard edge is uncomfortable in wear, Solution to this problem lie in a well sharpened blade, a blade with wavy edges, and or using anti-fusion paper during spreading. 4. Support of the lay :- the cutting system must provide the means not only to support the fabric but also to allow the blade to penetrate the lowest ply of a spread.

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Devices Used in the Cutting Section

Department also has following machines: Machine Name- Eastman Blue steak II

Technical Specification:1. 2. 3. 4. Current 4.2 amps Voltage 220v Speed 2850 R.P.M Knife 8

Pin tables for accurate matching of check fabrics.

Dimensions of the pinning table are :Length Width Height Quantity-3 179 c.m 120 c.m 90 c.m

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Description: - This is used for accurate pinning of the panels in case of stripe and checks. This technology is used for accurate matching of the panels when they are placed alongside each other for e.g.:- Consider the left and right panels of the shirt if the panels are not matching means the cut panels are not straight then it causes a lot of problems in sewing process. When matching has to be done pinning process is included to avoid such circumstances. Procedure: 1.) The cut panels are taken from the spreading table 2.) Then those panels are taken by the pinning operator 3.) Then operator starts arranging each cut panel individually following the guideline of laser light . 4.) Then she punches the needle from the table which comes and grabs the fabric. 5.) Then each individual panel is pinned in that needle. 6.) After the pinning of one bundle is completed operator removes the panels along with the needles placing the plotter paper on the panel.

Three Band Knives for panel cutting Specification:Manufacturer: - Eastman Model no:-EC9000N Cutting Capacity: - 180 mm Table Size: - 1500 x 2100 mm Table height: - 790 mm Arm length: - 900 mm Variable Speed: - 570 1440 m/min Knife Dimension: - 0.45 x 10 x 3960 mm (Thickness x width x length) (Fine blade) Running load of the band knife is 0.6125 KWH

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Description: - This machine is used for precise cutting of panels. Technical Specification:Manufacturer: - Eastman Model no:-EC9000N Cutting Capacity: - 180 mm Table Size: - 1500 x 2100 mm Table height: - 790 mm Arm length: - 900 mm Variable Speed: - 570 1440 m/min Knife Dimension: - 0.45 x 10 x 3960 mm (Thickness x width x length) (Fine blade) Running load of the band knife is 0.6125 KWH Description: - This machine is used for precise cutting of panels. Procedure:1.) The cut blocks are taken from the pinning table (if striped panels). 2.) Then cutter places the hard cardboard pattern on these panels. 3.) Fabric panels are clamped with cardboard using clamps. 4.) Then they are moved through the band knife and along the contour of the cardboard panel the fabric is cut. 5.) Then that cut panels are moved to the pattern measurement

There is a re-cut table with four scissors for cutting of re-cutting.

Dimensions: -

Length Width Height

183 c.m 92.5 c.m 93 c.m

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Description: - It is used for re-cutting of the panels to replace the defective panels coming from sewing or from panel checking.

Procedure: 1.) The defective panels come to the issuing are from where it is send to the re-cut table along with the bundle sticker. 2.) Then re-cut personal take out the same role as per the bundle slip. 3.) Then the panel is cut as per the cardboard pattern using scissors only.

One Interlining Cutting table with bias cutter for cutting of interlinings. Dimensions: Length Width Height 487.5 c.m 122 c.m 92 c.m

Technical specification

Manufacturer: - Nagai Shing Model no.:Voltage: Amp.: DC-770 220v 0.8A

Motor R.P.M: - 12000

Description: - This table is used to cut the big interlining sheet into big blocks in bias form. They are cut in bias form just to prevent the shrinkage happening in sewing

Procedure: 1.) First the interlining sheet is laid on to the table 2.) Then the interlinings are cut in bias form with that cutter. 3.) The big blocks of interlining cut is transferred to the hydraulic dye cutter for cutting of cuff and collar band fusing.

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4.)Two Hydraulic die cutters for cutting of interlinings to be fused with the collar and cuff.

Hydraulic Die Cutters Specifications:Manufacturer: - ATOM Max cutting power: - 25 ton/245 KN Cutting table: - 1000 x 500 mm Useful Area: - 97% Arm Width 610 mm Weight with oil: - 1080 Kg Dynamic Overload: - 75 kg Hydraulic oil: - 38 kg

Description: - This is used to cut the interlinings in biased form Procedure:1.) First the sheet of interlining is spread on the table. 2.) Then Cutter is moved to cut the big biased blocks from the sheet. 3.) Then that big block of biased cut is taken to hydraulic dye cutter machine 4.) According to the die available of various shapes (collar, cuff, collar patch, collar band)the pressure is applied between the die and hydraulic cutter and fusing are obtained. 1) Three Spot fusing iron presses which is done to press the fusing so that it does not displaces during final fusing.

In Spot fusing machines we use Soldering machines at 150oC (This is used for making fused spots on collar band such that it does not slip inside the Fusing machine) Temp Range for spot fusing is 0-200oc.

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Next to Spot fusing machines we use ironing machines for temporary fusing of the collars and cuff. Specifications for Press (AHS 500):Voltage- 220v Heater capacity 840 w Weight 1.6 kg Base size 205 mm x 116 mm Base surface treatment Tuff ram Thermal control Thermostat (N-08) Heater Capacity for Hose 100 w No of Presses - 3

Description: - This is used to manually give spotting to the fusing to be placed on the panel just that it does not slip from its position. Procedure:1.) First the fusing is placed on the cut panel. 2.) Measurement is made and fusing is placed on it. 3.) With Spot fusing machine the fusing is spot. 4.) After spotting it is send to the fusing machine for final fusing.

Three fusing machines for final fusing of collar and cuff. Fusing machine for collar band and cuff operation is:Manufacturer - Viet kannegiesser Fusing machine for collar:Manufacturer: - Viet Kannegiesser Model no - EX 1000 CU/FE/T Model no: - BH 600

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Manufacturer: - Viet kannegiesser Model no: - BH 600 Electrical connected load: - 9.5 kW, 16 A Working width 600mm Belt speed 1 3.5 m/min 3.3 11.6 ft/min Fusing Time 7 sec 27 sec Pressing Pressure 1 bar 6 bar (6N/cm2 46 N/cm2) Air gauge pressure: - 6.5 bar (95 psi) Fusing temperature: - 0- 200oC Air consumption: - 1L/min Dimension: - 1100 mm x 1650 mm Weight 470 kg Description: - This machine is used to fuse parts like cuff and collar band. Procedure:1.) The spotted panels are placed on the machine.

2.) That spotted parts are fed to the machine for fusing. 3.)Then that part is fused in the machine with above mentioned specifications. 4.) After fusing is done then the panel is returned back to the machine Fusing machine for collar:Manufacturer: - Viet Kannegiesser Model no - EX 1000 CU/FE/T Working Width in inches: - 39.4 Width in inches: - 61.8 Height in inches: - 61.8 Length in inches: - 187.8 Running Speed in m/min: - 1.7 1 Ft/min: - 5.6 33 Connected Electric Load: - 23 kW

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Working air pressure in psi: - 93 Bar: - 6.5 Air consumption in l/min: Cub ft/min: - 1.7 Gross Weight: - 1150 kg Description: - This machine is used for the fusing of collar.

Procedure:1.) In this machine the manually fused collar is placed on the machine 2.) Then it is fed in to the machine. 3.) Collar is run at the above mentioned specification. 4.) Then it is received at the other end.

W.I.P racks for storage of cut parts (collar, cuff, sleeve, front & back).

Storage racks are there for putting cut parts. Its 5 racks have been divided as such to accommodate each part with each size First rack: - back Second rack- front Third rack: - cuff Fourth rack: - collar Fifth rack: - Sleeve Size: - 38, 40, 42, 44, 46 Dimension (one slab):Total 3 slab in one rack Length: - 3 feet Width: - 2.5 feet Height:-1 feet

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Description:1.) In this the final cut panels are placed. 2.) The racks have been segregated as such it can have all cut parts. 3.) The cut parts are stored in these racks according to their size. 4.) This segregation is stored in the racks as per the size.

One inspection table for final part checking (100%checking)

Description: - This table is used where big parts of the garment are checked and inspected In this table 100% inspection takes place with defect checking takes place and if some part is defected then it is send to the re-cut table where the part is replaced with new part 1.) Two ticketing and bundling tables with two ticketing and bundling guns. 2.) Two ticketing and bundling tables are there which are used to put tickets on the cut panels and we have 4 ticketing guns in the department for that. 3.)But with the application of bundle system in the industry the ticketing tables are now used for bundling tables where bundles are made as per the no. of plies cut in one roll of the fabric and they are numbered accordingly.

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One storage racks with 3 tiers bottom tier for fabric storage middle tier for endbits and interlining storage and top tier for end-bits storage.

Cutting department contains one fabric storage rack, which holds the W.I.P of fabric for the cutting department. It contains 3 tiers First tier is for End bits:- These end bits are basically the left over fabric rolls which are not to be used in near future or which are in not that emergency. Second Tier is for END BITS/INTERLINING STORAGE: - in this end-bits are stored these end bits are the leftover of those rolls which are still running in the line. This covers the area of the second tier storage and the rest part of the storage is covered with INTERLINING storage area where rolls of the fusing are placed. And once the order is there the fusing is taken from the rack to the interlining cut table. CUTTING: PROCESS FLOW

Block cutting by straight knife for all types of fabric, i.e. solid or yarn dyed. In case of check or striped fabric, the cut parts are sent for pinning and then for ready cut, and if it is solid it is straight away sent to be cut on band knife for ready cut.

On the other side, after cutting the lining with the help of straight knife, die clicking is done since the parts are very small: collar (skin, patch), neck band, cuff, and front placket.

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BUNDLING
Bundling is very important in order to keep shading and sizing problems to a minimum. Bundles must not only be kept together, but they must also be properly ticketed. Bundlers should set the example for operators by neatly laying out the bundle. The bundle should remain in this manner throughout the production process.

INSPECTION AND INITIAL BUNDLING Now the QC checks measurement of all the cut parts from top, middle and bottom plies of the lay. Bundling of parts is done according to the no. of plies in a roll to avoid shade mismatching in different parts of the same garment. Bundles of front, back, yoke and sleeve are sent to the QC to check for defects or any other major issues, the parts which are defective are sent for re cut from the same bundle. Bundles of small parts are sent for spot fusing etc.

Bundle Preparation: Bundles must not be tied too tightly because it can cause a crease that is either difficult or impossible to get out. Bundles should also be tied with a quick release knot so that operators dont have to continually cut down the tie resulting in a small tie that is tied tightly around the bundle.

Bundles must be put into process flat and neat.

(Efforts must be made to

maintain this appearance throughout the line to prevent lost or mixed pieces that can lead to shading problems.) Bundlers must make sure that the first ply and last ply of the bundle are marked with a sobar.

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The number of ply in the bundle must also be counted to ensure that there are no extras pieces. removed. This is important so that the pieces with the sobars arent

Bundles must be correctly matched with their tickets. The bundler must verify that the number of ply, the fabric, and cut are correct on all the tickets.

Types of bundling : 1. Garments bundling 2. Job bundling Cut Components to Make a Complete Bundle: Short Sleeve: 11 parts (2 fronts, 2 sleeves, 1 back, 2 collars, 2 yokes, 2 pockets) Long Sleeve: 15 parts (2 fronts, 2 sleeves, 1 back, 2 collars, 2 yokes, 2 cuffs, 2 pockets, 2 plackets) Pants: 16 parts (2 fronts, 2 backs, 2 bands, 2 front pocket, 2 welt, 2 fly)

FUSING
The fusing consists a base ( paper or interlining) and which carries on its surface a thermoplastic adhesive resin, usually in the form of small dots, which will melt when heated to a specific temperature. If it is laid flat with the resin side onto the garment parts and heat and pressure are applied, the resin will flow into the fabric of the garment and it and interlining will become permanently attached.

Fusing process:-- The mean of fusing are the temperature and pressure , applied over a period of time, usually in some kind of specialized fusing press. The heat has to pass through fabric to activate the resin , and this requires a time measured in seconds, which varies according to the nature of the fabric and type of resin. Every fusible resin has an optimum temperature at which it flows satisfactorily, If this temperature is not reached then a longer time or higher pressure will not compensate ,

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and the bond will be weak. If the temperature rises too high the resin becomes too fluid, giving rise to strike back and strike through. In addition to the outer fabric of the garment, there are three factors determine the properties of the used laminate. 1. The base fabric of interlining : 2. Types of fusible resin 3. The pattern of application of the resin to the base cloth.

1. The base fabric of interlining:The base fabrics are available in woven and non woven constructions and warp knits. The warp knits are either a lock nit or weft insert construction.

2. Type of fusible resin :The choice of resin restricted to by limits imposed by the outer fabrics, the fusing equipment to be used , the end use requirements, and the precise behavior of the resins in response to heat. The particular requirement of the heat are as follows: The fusing temperature must no be so high that it will damage the outer fabric or its color . The usual maximum is 175 C TO 150 Degree C. 2. The lower limit of the temperature is 110 degree C. 3. The resin must provide a bond which is suitably resistant to washing and or DC. 4. The resin must have the low dye retention properties. 5. The thermoplastic nature of the resin must be such that the adjustment of temperature is sufficient enough to permit it to penetrate the outer fabric to give a bond , without flowing excessively to give strike through or strike back.

Following types of resin are available :1. 2. 3. 4. Polyethylene Polypropylene Polyamides Polyesters

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5. 6.

Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC) Plasticized polyvinyl acetate ( PVA)

3. Methods of applying resins to base cloths:There is further scope for varying the properties of an interlining and its effect on the outer fabric of a garment by varying the application of the resin to the base cloth. 1. Scatter coating 2. Dry dot printing 3. Paste coating The means of fusing :- The fusing equipment must provide control of three factors:1. Temperature: - this must be high enough to achieve the necessary temperature at the glue line which will change the dry thermoplastic resin into a partially molten state in order that it will flow. A low temperature will give poor flow and subsequent poor adhesion. A too high temperature gives too much flow , resulting in strike-back and strike through. 2. Pressure :- The equipment must provide enough pressure to ensure intimate contact between interlining and outer cloth over the whole surface of the interlining.
3. Time:- The equipment must give enough time to allow the temperature and pressure to induce melting of the resin and penetration of the outer fabric in order to produce a satisfactory bond.

FUSING PROCESS FLOW The fusing operation is carried out for the parts like Collar, Neck band, Front placket, Cuffs etc. where the shape retention is a critical quality requirement. The fusing parameters (temperature, pressure and speed) are set as per the fabric and interlining quality. Spot fusing for collar, cuff and front placket is done so as to discourage the displacement of the plies while passing through the fusing machine.

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FINAL BUNDLING
The big parts from the panel inspection and the small parts after fusing are returned to the bundling table. The bundling is done according to sections as follows:

o Collar collar and neck band o Back back and yoke o Front front, placket, pocket o Sleeves sleeve, large sleeve placket and small sleeve placket. o Cuff- top and under cuff
The bundle tags are attached with the bundles. The bundle report is also prepared and sent to the sewing section. The bundle report gives information about the order number, style code, size and the respective quantity etc. The bundle card reads following information:

BUNDLE NO. STYLE COLOR SIZE

31 BLACKBERRY BLACK ST. 42-F RIGHT

PART NAME No. SERIES NO . OF PCS NO. OF PCS FOR ALTERATION

FRONT 636-655 20

Finally the bundles are ready to be sent to the sewing section.

76

MACHINE DETAILS
S. No. Operation M/c No. of machines

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14

CAD (Marking) Plotter Cutting Table Big Pin Table Feedrail trolley and plug in over electrician system Cutting Machine Pinning Table Band Knife Bundling Interlining cutting Table Hydraulic cutting press Spot Fusing Top fusing Collar band and Cuff Top Fuse for collar

Gerber Gerber Gerber Vieth Ngai Shing Eastman Blue steak II Ngai Shing NS-601 Ngai Shing NS-810-900 Local (Tables) Ngai Shing NS-57 and Table Ngai Shing NS-860-25 Iron Ngai Shing NS-93 Viet Kenniegieser BH600 Viet Kenniegieser HKH5,6/7

1+2 1 3 1 3 3 5 5 2 to 5 1 2 4 6 3

MAN-POWER DETAILS: Total no. of workers in the cutting department = 41

77

7.9 SEWING
FLOW CHART
RECEIPT OF CUT PARTS FROM CUTTING RECEIPT OF TRIMS

ALL THE FOLDER AND ATTACHMENTS FIXED

FRONT

SLEEVE H/S

COLLAR

CUFF

BACK

F/S POCKET HEM IRON

LARGE SLEEVE PLKT FOLDING

COLLAR RUN STICH

CUFF HEMMING

LABEL ATTACH

POCKET SETTER

BUTTONHOLE

COLLAR TRIM, TURN & BLOCK

CUFF RUN STITCH

YOKE ATTACH

POCKET CREASE

SMALL SLEEVE PLKT FOLDING

COLLAR TOP STICH WITH BONE (if needed)

CUFF TURN AND BLOCK

YOKE TOP STITCH

CUFF CREASING LEFT PLKT ATTACH SM SLV PLKT ATTACH H/S HEM LRG SLV PLKT ATTACH POCKET ATTACH SLEEVE PRESS RIGHT PLACKET ATTACH BUTTON ATTACH RIGHT FRONT PRESS QUARTER MARK BAND TOP STITCH CUFF BUTTON ATTACH COLLAR STICH

YOKE PRESS

CUFF TOP STITCH

LEFT FRONT PRESS

BAND HEM CUFF BUTTONHOLE

BK INPN

BANDING

BAND TRIM

78

BUTTON HOLE H/S NOT OK BUTTON ATTACH SL INPN N NOT OK

BUTTON HOLE NOT OK BUTTON ATTACH CUFF INPN.

NOT OK FRONT INPN.

NOT OK

COLR INPN

OK

FRONT

FSLEEVE

HSLEEVE

COLLAR

CUFF

READY PARTS OF FRONT, SLEEVE, COLLAR, CUFF AND BACK BUNDLE PAIRING

SHOULDER ATTACH

SHOULDER TOP STITCH

SLEEVE LINE MATCH (CHECKS & STRIPES)

SLEEVE ATTACH

SLEEVE TAPE SEW RECEIPT OF TRIMS

79

SLEEVE TOP STITCH

ARM HOLE

SIDE SEAM

COLLAR ATTACH

CUFF ATTACH (FULL SLEEVE)

BAR TACK (HALF SLEEVE)

BOTTOM TRIMMING

BOTTOM HEM

FRONT BTN MARKING (ONLY IN BTN DOWN)

REGULAR

BTN DOWN SEW

FRNT BTN IRONING

NOT OK TRIMMING & CHECKING

OK

WASHING

NON-WASH

EXTERNAL AGENCY

ISSUES TO FINISHING

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PROCESS FLOW OF DEPARTMENT:

The sewing department receives the cut parts and trims from the cutting and stores department respectively.

The section is divided broadly into parts and assembly. The team leaders of the particular parts issue the bundles from the cutting issuing table.

The threads and other trims are issued from the trim store in bulk. Then the operations start in the steps mentioned in the flow chart.

ISSUED TO FINISHING

TRIMMING AND FINAL QC

COLLA ASSEMBLY2
CUFF WIP

SLEEV
COLLAR FRONT

CUFF

COLLAR WIP

ASSEMBLY1

SLEEVE WIP

SLEEVE

FRONT WIP BACK WIP

FRONT

BACK

81

Machine details for the sewing department :S.No Machine details 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine SNLS- with raceing pulley Over lock, 3 thread Double Needle Lock Stitch Machine Double Needle Lock Stitch Machine Feed Off Arm Single Needle Chain Stitch Kansai special machine Button Hole Button Attach Model Name DDL 8700-7 DDL-8700-7 + PS
MO 6704 D

Number 132 4 1 3 3 8 5 2 12 16

LH-3528 Q + PS LH-3528 H MH 481 MS 1190 DFB 1404 LBH 1790 MB 1800 with BR-10

TOTAL MACHINES : Feeding mechanisms in the machines: 1) Needle Feed:- 6 m/cs of Double Needle Lock Stitch 2) Differential feed: - 1 m/c overlock machine 3) Drop feed: - 149 machines (All SNLS + SNCS)

186

Single needle lock stitch is equipped with under bed trimmer and all machines are semi lubricated.

82

PROCESS FLOW DESCRIPTION

Front : 1. Pocket is prepared, i.e. folded, ironed and creased. 2. Placket is prepared, i.e. ironed and the right placket is creased. 3. Placket is attached and trimmed. 4. Pocket is attached. 5. Left front is pressed followed by button hole making.
6. Right placket is stitched followed by pressing and button attach.

Machines other than SNLS.

NAOMOTO- EA-50 IRON

NAGAI SHING-NS-9084 POCKET CREASING MACHINE

83

KANSAI-DFB-1404- PLACKET ATTACH

KOBE PRESS- 2 BED FOR RIGHT

PLACKET PRESS

KOBE PRESS- 3 BED FOR LEFT PLACKET IRONING

84

Machine Specifications:

FRONT SECTION
OPERATION Pocket folding Pocket Hemming Pocket Creasing Placket Attach Placket Attach Pocket Attach NS-9084 DFB-1404 LH3528S DDL-8700-7 DDL-8700-7 SNLS CREASING M/C DNCS DNLS SNLS KOBE PRESS LSBH SNLS NGAISHING KANSAI JUKI JUKI KOBE JUKI JUKI 1 2 3 10 4 4 3 JUKI 2 MACHINE MODEL EA-50 MACHINE TYPE IRON MANUFACTURER NAOMOTO NO. OF M/C 1

Left Front Press TOP-3078 Button Hole Right Placket Right Front Press Button Attach H-3-4080-C MB-1800 LBH-1709S DDL-8700-7

KOBE PRESS CSBA

KOBE JUKI

2 5

Sleeve 1. Firstly the large sleeve placket is folded as per the design. 2. Small sleeve placket is ironed. 3. Button hole is made in the large sleeve placket. 4. Small and large sleeve plackets are attached either manually or by using folders. 5. Sleeve is pressed. 6. Button is attached on the small sleeve placket.

85

Machines other than SNLS.

1.

2. 1. PMM-SVF-1 Large Placket Folding 2. VEIT-KANNEGIESSER- EX1000SB/CU/TMED Sleeve Press 3. HASHIMA- HP 450 Sleeve Press

3.

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Machine specifications:-

SLEEVE SECTION
OPERATION Placket Folding Button Hole Small Placket Attach Large Placket Attach DDL-8700-7 EXSleeve Press Sleeve Press Button Attach 1000SB/CU/TMED HP-450 MB-1800 SNLS VEITKANNEGIESSER HASHIMA CSBA JUKI VEITKANNEGIESSER HASHIMA JUKI 1 2 3 12 DDL-8700-7 SNLS JUKI 3 PMM-SVF-1 LBH-1790S Folding M/C LSBH PMM JUKI 2 2 MACHINE MODEL MACHINE TYPE MANUFACTURER NO. OF M/C

Collar 1. Collar is prepared by putting run stitch, trimming, turning and blocking. 2. In case, collar bone is to be attached it is sticked in the collar tip. 3. Now top stitch is made, and collar stitch is made to make it stable. 4. Band is prepared by hemming. 5. Banding is done. 6. Band top stitch is made at specified distance using required folders. 7. Band is trimmed and quarter marks are made. 8. Button hole is made and button is attached.

87

Machines other than SNLS

NAGAI SHING- NS- 82, COLLAR BLOCKING

NAGAI SHING- NS- 92, COLLAR TRIMMING

NAGAI SHING-NS-42, COLLAR TURN

NAGAI SHING-NS-95, QUARTER MARK

88

Machine specifications:-

COLLAR SECTION
OPERATION Run Stitch Collar Trim Collar Point Turn Collar Blocking Top Stitch Collar Trim Collar Stitch Band Hemming Banding Band Top Stitch Band Trim Quarter Mark Button Hole Button Attach DDL-8700-7 MO-6704D NS-95 LBH-1709S MB-1800 SNLS Overlock Marking M/C LSBH CSBA JUKI JUKI NGAI SHING JUKI JUKI 3 1 1 2 2 NS-75-A NS-42 NS-82 DDL-8700-7 NS-92 DDL-8700-7 DDL-8700-7 DDL-8700-7 Trimming M/C Turning M/C Blocking M/C SNLS Trimming M/C SNLS SNLS SNLS NGAI SHING NGAI SHING NGAI SHING JUKI NGAI SHING JUKI JUKI JUKI 2 2 3 3 1 1 2 9 DDL-8700-7 SNLS JUKI 5 MACHINE MODEL MACHINE TYPE MANUFACTURER NO. OF M/C

Cuff 1. Top and bottom cuff parts are attached by a run stitch. 2. Cuff is turned, blocked and if required ironed to set. 3. Top stitch is made. 4. Button is attached and button hole is made.

89

Machines other than SNLS. NAGAI SHING NS 85, CUFF BLOCKING MACHINE

Machine Specification:

CUFF SECTION
OPERATION MACHINE MODEL Hemming Run Stitch Blocking Creasing Top Stitch Button Hole Button Attach MB-1800 CSBA JUKI 3 DDL-8700-7 DDL-8700-7 NS-85 EA-50 DDL-8700-7 LBH-1790S MACHINE TYPE SNLS SNLS Blocking m/c IRON SNLS LSBH MANUFACTURER JUKI JUKI NGAISHING NAOMOTO JUKI JUKI NO. OF M/C 2 9 3 2 4 3

90

Back: 1. Firstly, label is attached. 2. Top-bottom yoke and back are joined. 3. Top stitch is made on back-yoke. 4. Yoke is pressed. PMM-BYWR-J, Back Yoke Press

Machine specifications:-

BACK SECTION
OPERATION Label Attach Yoke Attach Yoke Top Stitch Yoke Press DDL-8700-7 PMM-BYWR-J SNLS PMM JUKI PMM 3 2 MACHINE MODEL DDL-8700-7 MH-481-5 MACHINE TYPE SNLS SNCS MANUFACTURER JUKI JUKI NO. OF M/C 3 5

91

Assembly 1. Shoulder is attached, shoulder top stitch is made. 2. Sleeve is tacked at shoulder then attached. 3. Sleeve top stitch is made. 4. Armhole is pressed. 5. Side seam is closed. 6. Collar is attached to body. 7. Collar top stitch is made. 8. If the sleeve is full, cuff is attached. 9. Bottom is trimmed if required, then hemmed.

Machines other than SNLS

Attachment for attaching sleeve when tape is Used, DDL-8700-7

PMM for armhole press.

92

DNCS, MS-1190-M, SIDE SEAM ATTACH

JUKI-CSBA- MB-1800, BUTTON ATTACH JUKI- LSBH- LBH-1790S, BUTTON HOLE

93

Machine specifications:

ASSEMBLY SECTION
OPERATION Shoulder Attach Shoulder Top Stitch Sleeve Attach Sleeve Attach(Tape Sewing) Sleeve Top Stitch Arm Hole Side Seam Collar Attach Collar Top Stitch Cuff Attach Bottom Hemming DDL-8700-7 DDL-8700-7 PMM MS-1190-M DDL-8700-7 DDL-8700-7 DDL-8700-7 DDL-8700-7 DNCS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS JUKI JUKI PMM JUKI JUKI JUKI JUKI JUKI 3 4 5 8 6 7 14 5 DDL-8700-7 LH-3528 SNLS DNLS JUKI JUKI 4 8 MACHINE MODEL DDL-8700-7 MACHINE TYPE SNLS MANUFACTURER JUKI NO. OF M/C 5

Details of folders and attachments:S.no Opeartion Presser foot Name FRONT 1 2 3 4 5 Pocket Iron Pocket Crease Placket Fold Pocket Attach Presses P703 CR 1/32N Model No Folder Name Attachment Name

94

6 7 8

Button Hole Right Front Placket button attach SLEEVE P725 F206

A608

A607

hemming COLLAR

P702

CL 1/32 E

1 2 3

Run Stich Collar Top Stich Collar stich

P701 P701 P701

CR 5/16E CR 3/16 E CR 3/8 E

CUFF Cuff hemming top stitch cuff button hole button sew BACK 1 2 lablel Attach Yoke Attachment ASSEMBLY Shoulder attach + Top 1 2 Stich Sleeve Attach P705 P716 F211 F218-A F225P744 3 Sleeve Top Stich DNL DNLMT F236 4 5 6 7 Side Seam Collar Attach Collar Top Stich Bottom Hemming P723 F505 1 A616 A616 P 701 P705 CR 1/32E F213 3 corner guide A 606 A 605

95

5 8 9 Button Attach Button Hole A601 A602

Details of manpower S. No 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Section FRONT AND BACK SLEEVE COLLAR CUFF ASSEMBLY Total : It also includes the in-line quality checkers. 236 Total Operators 49 30 53 29 75

96

7.10 FINISHING - INTRODUCTION

The finishing department imparts the final touch to the garments, gives it a soothing effect and improves the aesthetics of the garment which loses its shine because of so many operations especially in the cutting and the sewing department and makes them ready for the dispatch. It improves the hand and feel of the garment and makes it presentable. The finishing department is on ground floor along with fabric store, material store and warehouse. The finishing department works in the following sequence :

THE PROCESS FLOW- CHART

Garments from sewing

Order File/Specification Sheet

Thread Trimming

Spot removal process

Thread Sucking

Side Seam Press

Collar & Cuff Press

Sleeve Press

97

Body Press

Baking (If Required)

Neck Press & Button Closing Folding

Folding QC

Poly Packing

Needle Detector

Packing List From Merchandiser

Cartoning

Warehousing

98

Process Details
Spot Cleaning: Spot cleaning machine is used to clean the spots and stains from the fabric. The machine used for spot cleaning is NGAI SHING DEVELOPMENT LIMITEDs creation from Kowoloon,Hong Kong. Machine Specifications: Model no.- NS 3302A Dimensions: Voltage: 220 V Length: 44 Width- 15 Height- 33

Thread Trimming

Thread trimming is done to remove the unwanted thread present on the garments in order to avoid any kind of error in the performance and visual appearance of the garments. Thread trimming is done by the final quality checkers.

Thread Sucking

Thread sucking is done to remove the threads, which stick on the garment after thread trimming. Thread trimming results in the deposition of lose threads all over the garment, though it is taken care of at thread trimming itself by beating the garment with a cellotape mounted baton but to make the garment 100% stray thread free this process is necessary.

99

Machine Specifications: Model no. - NS -55 Voltage 280 V /3 PH Capacity 3000pcs/ 8 hrs. Time taken- Usually 8 sec, though can be

reduced to 5 sec when workload is more. No. of machines in the company - 1 The machine is a heavy suction mode machine. It basically has 3 modes. They are:1. Automatic suction (always on) 2. Foot control 3. Automatic control with sensor It has a tray at the bottom of the machine, so even if a tray is left inside the machine, it gets collected at the bottom tray.

The operator holds the garment and takes it in a suction chamber and due to heavy suction; the garment releases all the threads, which are on the surface. The procedure followed include thread sucking initially from the front of the shirt followed by the back.

Side Seam press

In this, the Side seam of the shirt is pressed with the help of specially made form finisher for the side seam. With the help of this machine high level of smoothness and very fine finishing over the side seam can be obtained. It is also called automatic sleeve seam / side seam fusing machine. The machine is only used whenever tape fusing is introduced in a shirt for pucker free side seam of good finish. Sometimes even when a tape is not used the shirt is still subjected to the side seam pressing machine depending on the work load.

100

A single operator can handle two machines at a time, owing to the waiting time of the machine, thereby saving time, increasing efficiency and utilizing labour idle time to the fullest. Machine Specifications: SSW-R-VB No. of machines - 3 No. of heaters 6 Arms 4, 2 above and 2 below Voltage - 380 V Phase - 3 PH Cycle 50/ 60 Hz Temperature 165 0 C (2-3 degree Machine name PMM Machine

Celsius variation) Power 7000 W Pressure 6.0 Kg/ cm2 , Machine

caution Set air pressure more than 4 kg/ cm2 Capacity 750 Pcs / 8hr

Time The machine basically uses 3 kinds of set times in the industry: 1. Pre heat time 3 sec 2. Press time 5 sec 3. Cool time 3 sec

Time can vary according to the type of fabric. Collar & cuff Press

The form finisher for collar and cuff is used to press the collar and cuff of the shirt to provide very fine and accurate finishing. This is done with the help of a hand steam iron to remove the wrinkles from the sleeve.

101

The company does not have an automated sleeve ironing machine but before the shirt reaches the finishing department, it is subjected to pressing using Kannegiesser machine in the sewing department where the crease line is also made. In finishing only sleeve touch up is done. Machine Specifications: Machine NGAI SHING

DEVELOPMENT LIMITED No. of machines 2 No. of heaters 4 Temperature 165

0

C (2-3

degree Celsius variation) Time 3-4 sec depending on

the fabric type. Pressure 5 bar

Sleeve Press

This is done with the help of a hand steam iron to remove the wrinkles from the sleeve. The company does not have an automated sleeve ironing machine but before the shirt reaches the finishing department, it is subjected to pressing using Kannegiesser machine in the sewing department where the crease line is also made. In finishing only sleeve touch up is done. Machine Specifications: ironing table. Model no JFJ -55 No. of machines - 10 Voltage 220 V , 2 a.c Motor 750 W Pressure - Max. 0.1 MPa Machine name Naomoto multi

102

Heater capacity 2.2 Kw Temperature - 1600 C -1800 C is the temperature range, 1750 C set temperature(for SSP Fabric), 1800 C for very thin cotton fabric.

Consist of an inbuilt boiler The press is digitally controlled. Special function Suction speed can be increased or decreased using invertor control systems.

Bed size 600*1000 mm A special fabric made of polyester is used which can take up more heat but a cotton cloth covering is spread onto this polyester cover to do the final pressing. This reduces suction a little but it matches the companies requirement.

An additional requirement for SSP fabric is that the final touching is done before baking unlike other fabrics. Body Press

The form finisher is used to press the front and back of the shirt. There is one dummy as a part of the body press machine. The size of the dummy is set according to European standards as it is closest to the Indian body type. The dummy expands inside the chamber and helps the shirt get ironed. And thus helps the shirt body get ironed as per the size. An additional water spray is also provided which can be used in case excessive wrinkles persist. There is an exhaust for hot air emission which can leave the air either in the surrounding atmosphere or outside using a chimney. The former method is used in the company.

103

Machine Specification: Baking Machine name BRISAY KANNEGIESSER Twinstar No. of machines 3 Machine capacity 12,000 pcs / 8 hrs Time range 4-8 sec Temperature range - 1500 C -1800 C Pressure range 4 bar 5 bar Power consumption 22 KW

It is a pressing process wherein, the SSP fabric shirts are introduced into a chamber of hot air with fans to set the resin and make the fabric wrinkle- free. This is also called a post-cure treatment method. The Japanese analyzed both pre-cure ( where the fabric is baked first and then the shirt is made) and post- cure methods and came down to the conclusion that results with post-cure are way better and was thus installed in the company.

104

Machine Specification: Machine name Naomoto baking machine, Osaka, Japan Model name NFS-3000 No. of machines - 1 Running Temperature - 1500 C Power consumption 52 KW No. of hangers 80 Time duration Depends on resin type No. of blowers 4 , 2 left and 2 right Voltage 415V Nac 50 Hz Motor capacity 0.75 KW *3 ,0.4 KW *4 Machine capacity 3000 pcs / 8 hrs Heater capacity 50.4 KW Running Wind volume Left: 37.1 Hz, Right: 37.4 Hz Additional controls Warning buzzer, Buzzer stop , Conveyor stop, Temperature recorder , Temperature recorder (OFF and ON)

105

CONVEYOR SPEED Cycle (Hz) 15 20 25 26.5 30 35 40 50 Time (Min) 10 8 6 6 5 4 4 3 Time (Sec) 55 05 26 06 20 34 00 09

Neck press and Buttoning

After the body press the neck band of the shirt is pressed and card board in form of collar band is inserted to provide the support to collar for packing. Buttoning of the shirt is also done at this stage with the help of a wired instrument whose head is inserted into the button hole and thus the button is pulled towards the hole to close it.

106

Machine Specification: Machine name NGAI

SHING DEVELOPMENT LIMITED type Here the front of the shirt is also checked for A-Zone defects. Model name NS -8247 No. of machines 2 Voltage 220 V / 1 PH Power Less than 5 KW Control Auto and Manual

Folding

After Neck Press and buttoning , the shirt is folded on the shirt folding machine and back support, butter fly and collar band is inserted. The folding machine in the company is not automatic but it supports manual folding.

Machine Specification: Machine name NGAI

SHING DEVELOPMENT LIMITED Model name NS-650 U No. of machines 8 Voltage 220 V

107

A new additional machine has been introduced in the finishing department for tucking purpose. Machine name Veit BRISAY KANNEGIESSER, Shanghai, China 00020 % 3610070511 Approx. P/N/PE/230 V KW counter Folding QC Air pressure 6.0 Bar Includes a daily shirt Frequency 50 Hz Electrical power 0.1 Voltage 1~ Weight 105 Kg Type 1361020008 Modification Model no. Veit 3610 Preset temperature

After folding one QC checks the presentation and folding of the shirt and moves further. There are 5 wooden tables for the QC check and one of the tables has an additional iron for final manual touch up.

108

Table dimension 96 * 48

Poly packing The shirt is then packed in a polybag and required tags are attached to the shirt as per the buyer. The tables that are used for final folding QC and polypacking are the same. The tags that are attached to the shirt at this phase usually consist of belly band, kimble and the company tag.

Polybag dimensions- 11*15 Parts per million (ppm)- Practically 37 micron but is usually 35 micron.

NEEDLE DETECTOR

109

Each and every shirt is passed through the machine in order to detect the broken needle parts that may remain in the shirt during sewing if there was a needle breakage during the making of that shirt.

Cartoning

The garments after being packed in the poly pack are sent for assortment and to be packed in the cartons. Each piece is picked, and put into the respective carton. This packing in the carton can be done in either of the 2 ways Ratio packing In this technique the garments are packed according to the ration of the sizes to be put in which is specified in the list given by the buyer. This is generally followed in the packing of shirts. Solid Packing - In this the garments are packed one shade and one size in one carton, this is easier and requires less time. Note: - there are many others ways in which Cartoning can be done as per the buyer requirement.

FINISHED GOODS STOCKING

After all these processes, the garment is ready to be dispatched, but this cannot be done before the dispatch date and the cartons have to be stocked somewhere. The finishing room on the 2nd floor itself has a lot of stocking space which is called the assortment area as the assortment is also done in this area only. The main finished goods stocking area is on the 1st floor above the central fabric store. From here, the goods are dispatched, once the merchandising department orders to take the consignment for the port.

110

Machine Details Machine Thread Sucking Side Seam Press Collar & Cuff Press Body Press Neck Press Baking Folding Needle Detector Number 1 2 2 3 2 1 7 1

111

7.11 QUALITY DEPARTMENT

This department is responsible for the quality assurance at each stage of the product. The stages are that of raw material, Work In Progress and the Finished Materials. The following are the various areas where the TQA department functions:

FABRIC INSPECTION:

The incoming fabrics are tested on the 4 point system. 10% of the fabric quantity is sent for inspection. The format used for maintaining inspection records is mentioned in the later. Preparation of shade card Centre to selvedge report Heat shrinkage report Width checking report Fusing shrinkage report Fabric Quality Control Inspection Report It is the inspection report of the fabric when it is received in Vardhman. It consists of supplier name, fabric code, meter age received, meter age inspected, construction etc. it looks like following. 1) Bale no. 2) Meter age in stickers. 3) Actual meter age 4) Actual width (min, max) 5) E.P.I 6) P.P.I 7) Penalty points in Weaving faults 8) Penalty points in dyeing and printing faults

112

9) Penalty points in weft bars/ shade defects 10) Penalty points in stubs/stains/holes. With this information we decide whether the fabric it to be accepted or rejected, or if some compensation is to be taken.

CUTTING INSPECTION:

The cutting Inspection is done according to the Tech Pack, Approvals, AQL level defect standards and style technical specification. For uncut parts inspection: Verify spec vs. patterns Cross check fabric reports and approvals Verify lay height and lay parameters Verify number of parts placed as per mini marker Inspect numbering Ensure fusing performance Verify various reports Checking for more shrunk layers in the lay.

For cut parts inspection: Verify all size patterns against the spec. Verify shrinkages have been added into the patterns. Cross verify pattern released are for all colors or there are color wise patterns. Make sure patterns are as per the matching/stripe placement requirement esp. in case of y/dyed Placement of notches is as per the requirement of the style.

113

FUSING PROCESS: For the fusing process, the following parameters are checked. Air pressure adjusted according to the fusing requirements. Temperature maintained and measured by the thermo strip regularly. Quality of fusing material like bubbling area, color change, fabric staining, fused area bond strength, after washing of fused quality and checking the weight performance.

BATCH INSPECTION: Check the garments at the Inline and End line Inspection points. Verify In line and End line inspection reports. Verify and instruct the in line and end line measurement report. Arrange passed pieces for batch audit. Compare tech pack with sample received and highlight discrepancy between tech pack and sample. Constructional details. Color wise trims and their placement. Spec sheet against pattern, sample Art work approvals, placements, grading. PP/Sealer/Size set/Pilot comments for the style or any comments by buyer. Constructional specification of the particular operation being done before the in line inspection. SPI, stretch ability of particular operation, needle damages. Material swatch/trim swatch/ color wise main label, wash care label swatches and placement in garment. Diagrammatic representation of critical parts like placket /pockets with measurements.

114

7.12 WAREHOUSE
A warehouse is a commercial area for storage of goods.

The company Warehouse is used for storing the finished goods.There is a place for storing both domestic and export produce but as of now the exporting of goods has not come into force.

There is also loading unloading space to load and unload goods from trucks.

Major warehousing processes include: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Receiving Inspection/ Acceptance Proper Storage Order preparation / picking Dispatching/ Delivery Inventory management (Checking as per System vs. Actual stock)

115

It can be done daily, weekly, monthly or quarterly depending on the number of buyers at a point of time and the production rush.

An ERP system is implemented in the warehouse for the record, maintainence and upgradation of all inventory.

116

8. OTHER DEPARTMENTS 8.1 MAINTENANCE ROOM

Mission of maintenance department To repair, service, and maintain the areas, buildings, structures, supporting infrastructure of the built environment, and other capital facilities throughout the company.

Apart from having a quality system and best practices, machine maintenance is also very important to get best quality products. Unacceptable qualities of products are usually a result of ill- maintained machines. Breakdown and preventive maintenance are primarily aimed towards reduced downtime and increased life respectively. Proper machine maintenance is also necessary to avoid casualties at the floor.

117

The function of PREVENTIVE MAINTAINENCE includes:

1. Care of the fittings 2. Adjusting settings 3. Oil changing 4. Graph maintenance 5. Outward/Inward reports 6. Needle weekly reports 7. Machine configuration chart 8. History card 9. Needle log cards

OBJECTIVES OF THE MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT:

1. Direct and coordinate the operations and activities of the physical plant maintenance, including but not limited to: facilities engineering administration ,layout, design and construction; equipment maintenance; utilities operations and maintenance; building and grounds maintenance; facilities protection and security; departmental safety and environmental compliance.

2.

Provide engineering consulting services,surveys,and recommendations to alL Departments; to outside architect/engineer firms performing services for the facility and to Public Utilities.

118

3.

Ensure compliance with applicable federal, state,and local laws,regulations,statutes,and codes; securing required permits; and coordinating with appropriate local authorities.

Contract with and oversee the activities of various contractors and consultants for the fulfillment of facility engineering responsibilities.

8.2 SALES AND MARKETING

Marketing Management is the process allocating the resources of the organization toward marketing activities. Thus, a marketing manager is someone who is responsible for directing expenditures of marketing funds. Marketing Management is a business discipline which is focused on the practical application of marketing techniques and the management of a firm's marketing resources and activities. The Marketing managers are often responsible for influencing the level, timing, and composition of customer demand accepted definition of the term.

The Marketing Management Process at Vardhman Nisshinbo Garments Limited consists of analyzing market opportunities, researching and selecting target markets, developing marketing strategies, planning marketing tactics, and implementing and controlling the marketing effort.

Analyzing market structure and behaviour Researching and selecting market opportunities Developing market strategies

119

Planning market tactics Implementing and controlling the market effort

ANALYZING MARKET STRUCTURE AND BEHAVIOUR

The companys marketing environment consists of the actors and factors external to the marketing management function of the organization that impinge on the marketing managements ability to develop and maintain successful transactions with its target customers. MICROENVIRONMENT (Immediate Environment) Organization Top management, finance, Manufacturing, Accounting Suppliers Customers- the one who pays for product or service Competitors Desire competitors, Generic comp., Form comp., Brand comp. Publics - a distinct group of people and / or organizations that have an actual or a potential interest and / or impact on an organization. Consumer the one who actually consumes product or service Influencer the one who influences the decision making process of customer and/or consume

RESEARCHING AND SELECTING TARGET MARKETS

First Step Define the Market Define the general boundary conditions of the market. Determine all the actual and potential members of the market.

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Second Step - Market Segmentation Consists of dividing the market into fairly homogenous parts where any part may conceivably be selected as a market target to be reached with a distinct marketing mix. Segmentation may be on the basis of any segmentation variable(s) that one may choose. Typical segmentation variables are as follows: Geographic Region, State, Country, Rural / Urban, Climate Demographic Age, Sex, Family size, Family life cycle, Income, Occupation, Education, Religion, Caste, Race, Nationality, Social Class Psychographic Life style, Personality, Benefits sought, User status, Usage rate, Loyalty status, Readiness stage

Third Step Market Targeting Market Segmentation reveals the market segment opportunities facing the organization. Now it has to evaluate the various segments and decide how many to serve. a) Evaluating the Market Segments b) Decide a Market Coverage Strategy Undifferentiated marketing, Differentiated marketing, Concentrated or Niche marketing

Fourth Step Positioning Positioning is the act of designing the organizations product and marketing mix to fit a given place in the consumers mind. Glamour fashionable shirt manufacturing Premium better and superior value Value for money better and superior value at affordable price DEVELOPING MARKET STRATEGIES

Marketing Strategy is the marketing logic by which Vardhman Nisshinbo expect to achieve their marketing objectives.

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Marketing strategy consists of making decisions on the businesss marketing expenditures, marketing mix, and marketing allocations in relation to expected environmental and competitive conditions. Marketing Mix is the mixture of controllable marketing variables that the organization uses to pursue the sought level of sales in the target market. Marketing Mix Variables 4 Ps 1. Product Product Variety, Quality, Features, Options, Style, Brand Name, Packaging, Sizes, Services, Warranties, Returns 2. Price List Price, Discounts, Allowances, Payment Period, Credit Terms, Mode of Payment 3. Place Channels, Coverage, Locations, Inventory, Transport 4. Promotion Advertising, Personal Selling, Sales Promotion, Public Relations, Direct Marketing

PLANNING MARKET TACTICS Strategy is broad direction. Tactics is detailing. IMPLEMENTING AND CONTROLLING THE MARKETING EFFORT Getting down to execution; collecting feedback and getting back to planning.

8.3 FINANCE AND ADMINISTRATION

Under administrative direction, plans, organizes and directs the companys Finance and Administration Department; also serves as Treasurer; provides highly responsible Administrative staff assistance to the General Manager; and performs other related work as required. .

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This department is responsible for company-wide finance and related administrative support services. Areas of program responsibility include, but are not limited to,

accounting, budgeting, financial planning and reporting, debt management, cash management, purchasing, information systems, liability insurance and customer service. This class is distinguished from other department management classes by its overall responsibility for directing financial and administrative services. This department reports to the General manager. TYPICAL DEPARTMENT TASKS 1. Develops, plans and implements goals and objectives for the finance and administration department, prepares and administers internal policies and procedures relating to departmental program activities; interprets and explains applicable rules, laws and regulations to supervisors and others.

2. Directs, oversees and participates in the departmental program work plan; assigns work activities, finance and administration projects and programs; monitors work flow; reviews and evaluates work products, methods and procedures; implements needed work process and automation improvements and methods for improving customer service.

3. Manages the preparation and maintenance of a variety of financial records and reports, including those related to the general ledger, accounts payable, accounts receivable, payroll, job costing, inventories, budgets and fixed assets; ensures the purchasing of materials, supplies and equipment are conducted in accordance with company policies and procedures.

4. Oversees preparation and presentation of the annual budget; supervises data gathering and financial planning work associated with rate setting; prepares rate analyses.

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5. As Treasurer, oversees cash management, investment, and debt management activities.

6. Coordinates departmental activities with other departments and divisions; provides responsible advice and counsel to the General Manager, and department and division managers on a variety of financial and administrative issues; oversees the maintenance of departmental records and files; administers liability claims and property insurance programs.

7. Manages information technology

support services for the company including

installation, maintenance and upgrade of both mainframe and network based applications pursuant to an information technology master plan; through user groups and other means, explores opportunities to improve efficiency and productivity through user friendly information technology enhancements.

8. Conducts financial reviews of company operations and activities and reports findings and recommendations to the General Manager and Board of Directors; serves as liaison with external auditors and coordinates their activities on behalf of the company.

9. Attends Board of Director and Board Committee meetings; prepares and presents staff reports and agenda items for consideration by the Board; serves as advisor to the General Manager and Board as to financial planning and administration.

10. Coordinates preparation of the annual budget request for the finance and administration department; reviews staffing, equipment, and supply needs based upon recent trends and planned activities; monitors expenditures after budget adoption; approves purchase requisitions.

11. Interviews and hires new staff; prioritizes, assigns and reviews work; approves time off for payroll purposes, and prepares employee performance evaluations; monitors and participates in employee relations activities within the department.

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12. Performs other related work as required.

8.4 FABRIC SOURCING:

Fabric sourcing department is basically engaged in determining how and where its merchandise i.e. fabric will be obtained. It works in coordination with the merchandising department and looks after the delivery of the required goods within the scheduled time and cost. At Vardhman Nisshinbo Garments Limited most of the fabric used for making the garments is sourced from the Vardhman textile units. In case the buyer needs the fabric to be sourced from elsewhere, the merchandiser is informed who passes on the information to the sourcing department and the sourcer has to thus collect the fabric from the particular supplier chosen by the buyer.

STORAGE:
Fabric packages are stored in two areas: Checked fabric Unchecked fabric

Such system maintenance of the store makes it easy to locate the fabric whenever needed in the future.

FABRIC ISSUE:
The fabric store issues the fabric for cutting on challan. All fabric is not issued at one go, instead it is issued as required. The challan contains information regarding style number, colour, buyers name, and quantity to be issued.

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Fabric requisition from merchandiser

Order placed

Fabric receive invoice/challan

Unloading after checking

Tally with supplier invoice for quantity

Inspection report sent to the concerned sourcing department

Fabric requisition from merchandiser

After comments reentry into the system with final comments if rejected or accepted

If accepted

Send bill to gate for entry

Receive fabric in store

Forward fabric for inspection

Relocation in store

Issue against job order

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PURCHASING DEPARTMENT:
The purchasing department is similar to the sourcing department just that the sourcing department works for the sourcing of fabric alone, whereas the purchasing department works for sourcing accessories and trims. However the working procedure is the same. The merchandisers give the Techpack and BOM for a particular style to the purchasing department and the concerned person will start the further process and for costing purpose the in-house price is given like, the cost involved in the production and also the price involved for a unit involved with respect to the complete procedure involved for its production.

This breakup is given to the merchandiser by the purchasing department for the costing purpose, the cost sheet is made by the merchandisers and the order is confirmed by the buyer based on the cost sheet given by the merchandiser.

After the order is confirmed by the buyer the merchandiser will sit with the other concerned departments and then the exact quantity required and the break up of the trims and accessories with respect to colour, size, MOQ etc will be given by the merchandiser to the purchasing department in the form of a sheet which is generally followed in the industry for all the orders irrespective of the buyer. Once the purchasing department receives this format, then the PO is sent to the concerned department for accessories and trims. Once the first shot of the raw materials is sent by the supplier then it is checked and further approved by the buyer.

After receiving the goods from the supplier, they are checked for the quantity as well as the criteria specified by the buyer and replaced if any of them are not meeting the criterion.This department also keeps track of all the quantities received in-house timely.The goods are generally received in break ups as suggested by the

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merchandiser according to the requirements stated by the planning and the production department and these break ups will have specified date and quantity and if this break up is not mentioned then the order is being placed with the supplier several times for small quantities and POs have to be sent all the time so in order to overcome this break ups are being given.

Then the purchase department has to follow up with the supplier for deliveries as and when the merchandiser asks for the new set of materials for that particular style and then the department also has to maintain receipts and they also have to maintain documents of inspection that are being carried out for those materials.

Many a times at Vardhman Nisshinbo garments, the trims are sent by the buyer himself or his supplier is suggested and the purchase department has to thus coordinate with the selected buyer.

8.5 MANAGEMENT INFORMATION SYSTEM :

The term management information system(MIS) is synonymous with computerbased systems. MIS is the study of providing information to people who make choices about the disposition of valuable resources in a timely, accurate, and complete manner at a minimum of cognitive and economic cost for acquisition, processing, storage, and retrieval.

A system to convert data from internal and external sources into information and communicate that information in an appropriate form, to managers at all levels in all 3 functions to enable them to make timely and effective decisions for planning, directing and controlling the activities for which they are responsible.

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MIS can also be defined as a system providing management with accurate and timely information necessary to facilitate the decision-making process and enable the organizations planning, control, and operational functions to be carried out effectively. So in this way MIS increases competitiveness of the firm by reducing cost and improving processing speed.

MIS AT VARDHMAN-NISSHINBO GARMENTS LIMITED:

The application of computers is wide ranging covering many activities required to run the apparel business. All departments are equipped with computers but the use in sales and marketing, production planning, etc is limited. As of now MIS revolves around majorly standalone applications based on one computer; but Vardhaman is eyeing an integrated centralized system where one large computer handles a range of applications; applications catered for by having ones data processing distributed over a network of computers.

The company is relatively new but are very keen on adopting and investing not only in very latest production technology, but also in design technology and computer systems. MIS in clothing companies should include the control of the stock, processing of each individual order, accounting etc. They do have a web site under construction for exclusively Vardhman Nisshinbo garments and in this way e-commerce is widening. Ecommerce offers a unique opportunity for economic growth, to improve industrys competitiveness and to stimulate investment in innovation and the creation of new jobs.

The effect of the use of modern IT might have many fold: higher efficiency, increased productivity, optimized processes, enhanced quality control and thus improved products; better design; lower cost and shorter lead times. Systems like ERP have been adopted for certain departments and thus they can see the difference already and have already adopted MIS to an extent.

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The implementation of modern MIS has improved the production process in the enterprise and changes the relationship between managers and their subordinates. ENTERPRISE RESOURCE PLANNING (ERP) ENTERPRISE RESOURCE PLANNING (ERP) application, is a tool that brings about effective co-ordination between the departments of an organization to direct the process by providing comparative information & analysis regarding trends and forecasts. It assists in effective management of the supply chain, just-in-time inventory and information as well as enterprise logistics management. ERP solutions are largely used for effective monitoring and control, accurate planning and scheduling of orders, better data predictions, quick response to query and on-line detailed information of orders. ERP is a method of effective planning of all the resources in an organization. Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP) covers the techniques and concepts employed for the integrated management of businesses as a whole, from the viewpoint of the effective use of management resources, to improve the efficiency of an enterprise. ERP packages are integrated (covering all business functions) software packages that support the ERP concepts. ERP software is designed to model and automate many of the basic processes of a company, from finance to the shop floor, with goal of integration information across the company and eliminating complex, expensive links between computer systems that were never meant to talk to each other. The trims store, fabric store and warehouse at Vardhman Nisshinbo Garments is ERP based. The ERP software used is SAP. They are trying to get other departments into the loop as well.

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There are various formats that are created by the company CA and CS and given to varied departments for filling and completion on their stand alone systems and are then collected back by the person incharge.

BENEFITS OF SAP:
Improves alignment of strategies and operations 1. Helps in running the enterprise in accordance with strategy and plans, accessing the right information in real time to identify concerns early. 2. Can pursue opportunities proactively. 3. Helps achieve corporate objectives by aligning workforce and organizational objectives. 4. Helps find the best people and leverage their talent in the right job at the right time. Improves productivity and insight 1. Helps in leveraging self-services and analytics across the organization. 2. Improves operational efficiency and productivity within and beyond the enterprise. Reduces costs through increased flexibility 1. Uses enterprise services architecture to improve process standardization, efficiency, and adaptability. 2. Extends transactions, information, and collaboration functions to a broad business community. Supports changing industry requirements 1. SAP NetWeaver platform's latest open, Web-based technology helps to integrate end-to-end processes seamlessly. Reduces risk 1. Helps solve complex business challenges , helps achieve long-term growth. 2. Supports major businesses world over.

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Improves financial management and corporate governance 1. Helps gain deep visibility into the organization with financial and management accounting functionality combined with business analytics. 2. Increases profitability, improves financial control, and manages risk.

Optimizes IT spending 1. Helps integrate and optimize business processes. 2. Eliminates high integration costs and the need to purchase third-party software.

Retains top performers 1. Retains top performers through clearly defined career and development plans. 2. Links employees' performance to compensation programs such as variable pay plans and long-term incentives.

Provides immediate access to enterprise information 1. Gives employees new ways to access the enterprise information required for the daily activities.

8.6 Human Resource Management

Human Resource Management (HRM, HR) is the management of an organization's employees. While human resource management is sometimes referred to as a "soft" management skill, effective practice within an organization requires a strategic focus to ensure that people resources can facilitate the achievement of organizational goals. Effective human resource management also contains an element of risk management for an organization which, as a minimum, ensures legislative compliance.

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HUMAN RESOUCE MANAGEMENT AT VARDHMAN NISSHINBO GARMENTS:

Human resources management involves several processes. Together they are supposed to achieve the above mentioned goal. These processes are usually performed in the HR department, but some tasks can also be outsourced or performed by line-managers or other departments. When effectively integrated they provide significant economic benefit to the company. Workforce planning Recruitment (sometimes separated into attraction and selection) Induction, Orientation and On boarding- Vardhman Nisshinbo has a training centre within the company called the MANAV VIKAS KENDRA, this centre is where the newly appointed operators are trained for a month, wherein fifteen days are devoted to theoretical learning and the rest- practical. Skills management Training and development Personnel administration Compensation in wage or salary Time management Employee benefits administration Personnel cost planning Performance appraisal Labor relations

HRM strategy:
The organization's HR function possesses recruitment and selection policies, disciplinary procedures, reward/recognition policies, an HR plan, learning and development policies, however all of these functional areas of HRM are aligned and

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correlated, in order to correspond with the overall business strategy. The HRM strategy thus is the overall plan, concerning the implementation of specific HRM functional areas.

The HRM strategy typically consists of the following factors: "Best fit" and "best practice" - there is correlation between the HRM strategy and the overall corporate strategy. As HRM as a field seeks to manage human resources in order to achieve properly organizational goals, the organization's HRM strategy seeks to accomplish such management by applying a firm's personnel needs with the goals/objectives of the organisation. Close co-operation between HR and the top/senior management, in the development of the corporate strategy. Continual monitoring of the strategy, via employee feedback, surveys, etc.

HRM FUNCTIONS:
The Human Resources Management (HRM) function includes a variety of activities, and key among them is deciding the staffing needs of the organization and hiring employees to fill these needs, recruiting and training the best employees (ITI graduates here), try to turn them into high performers, dealing with performance issues, and ensuring personnel and management practices conform to various regulations. Activities also include managing the approach to employee benefits and compensation, employee records and personnel policies. The organization looks at the "Personnel Department," as not only to manage the paperwork around hiring and paying people but consider the "HR Department" as playing an important role in staffing, training and helping to manage people so that people and the organization are performing at maximum capability in a highly fulfilling manner.

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EFFORTS MADE:
To sustain the operators various efforts have been made by the company like canteen facility, introduction of chillers, hostel facility, recreational facilities, games, award ceremonies, the team leader concept so they develop their potential to the fullest, festival celebrations, motivational lectures and so on.

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