Anda di halaman 1dari 17

Kramers Water Car Part 2: Electrolysis

by Thomas C. Kramer August 2003 In Part 1 you learned how to make a bubbler and a simple electrolysis cell. That is the starting point in understanding how to construct even more efficient electrolysis units that will be discussed in this Part. In Part 2 we are going to first convert your bubbler into an electrolysis unit, then we will produce a unit that only produces hydrogen gas and finally we will create an Aussie cell!

1. Archie Blues Bubbler


A New Zealander named Archie Blue figured out that you could modify your standard electrolysis unit by bubbling air through it. He figured that the air would help to dislodge the oxygen and hydrogen gas bubbles from the plates. Good thinking Archie. What he didnt know at the time was that he would also be making nitrous hydroxide (N(OH)2) too! But what the heck, it worked better than expected. To make an Archie Blue reactor we will go back to our bubbler. In this case we will be creating reactor plates that fit inside the bubbler and alternate these in a stack along the central bubbler tube. I would recommend that the center tube be made out of copper as this will be easy to charge with only one connection, but it can be made of any other metal or plastic and each plate can be wired separately. This is still a plate reactor, thus different metals will be used for the anode and cathode plates as before. The difference is that these will be stacked vertically and will be rounded to fit inside your water filter casing. Each plate will also be perforated with a bunch of holes to let the air bubbles squeeze through as they rise up the cylinder. Electrode Plates

Note that the center hole on one set of plates will be larger than the other set. This is because you will be using a plastic spacer to prevent electrical contact with the center tube. Also, the holes that you make in the plates should not all be the same size or location. You can make these holes with several different sized nails. Rough edged holes work better, so dont go smoothing these off just to look pretty. You may also want to rough sandpaper your plates or scratch them to provide more surface area.

An Archie Blue Bubbler


Air IN Water IN Screen

Insulator Cathode Anode Spacer Cathode Anode If you are using a center metal pipe, then only the cathode plates have to be separately wired and isolated with a spacer. If not, then both the cathode and anode plates have to be wired. When wiring the plates together, use silicone coated wire and solder or epoxy the connections then coat with silicone. You dont want your leads to be eaten up. When making your plates, you can again use many different types of metals and have fun experimenting. Old tin can lids are easy to get and make with a can opener. You

can also use copper plate, tin plate, stainless steel sheet or steel sheet metal, aluminum, or make your own lead plates using the molding method discussed in Part 1. Try old CDs coated with foils, if you like. The metal plates will be alternately stacked along the center air intake tube, so you will have to make spacers and insulators to slip over this tube. Spacers can be plastic, rubber or metal washers that just slip over the pipe. Insulators would be plastic or rubber tubing that is cut into short ring pieces and slipped over the pipe. You must make sure that the cathode and anode plates dont touch, thus the cathodes should be carefully isolated, preferably with plastic washers on either side of the center insulator. The distance between the plates is adjusted with the washers. This distance may be a bit more that in your plate reactor as you will need more room for the air to pass through. Try different stacking settings to see what works best for you and the type of plates that you are using. When stacking the plates, you may need a stopper at the bottom of the pipe. This can be just about anything that will support the weight of the plate stack, such as a dab of epoxy, solder, a screw, a flaring or a rubber ring. The main idea here is that you will want to take your stack apart and put it back together again quickly and easily. Your plates are going to be eaten up, so maintenance and replacement will be required, thus it is better to plan ahead and make life easier on yourself. This reactor operates in exactly the same way as your initial reactor, so you will hook up your electrical leads the same way. Again, the pot allows you to control the gas output. You will also need to add a bit of acid or base to the water intake. And if you want to make this a flow-through system, you will have to add a Water-OUT hole and a pipe to the bottom of the filter canister. Archie used caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) as the electrolyte, but you need a bubbler after the unit to trap any electrolyte that may be sucked through the piping. Better there than in the engine, huh? The difference in this system is that you will be running the mixed gas supply directly into your engine intake manifold. The vacuum created here will suck air through both your electrolysis bubbler and your flame arrestor bubbler. The other neat trick is that you can make any number of these units and hook them up in series like that shown above. This will produce progressively more and more gas! A car can thus be run solely on the gas produced from 4-6 of these cells! You can also turn on each cell individually mechanically and/or automatically as you accelerate. This can be done using a sequential switch in line with your pot. Or if you have an electronic friend, he might be able to design you a simple switching circuit based on the pot voltage output.

As the car accelerates it will, of course, require more gas, thus you will have to design your gas production and regulation switching so that you can adjust these factors. When using a single or double cell, you probably wont be producing enough gas to run your car solely on this fuel, thus the pot is used to set your idle as before and then you lean down your petrol intake. This will improve your gas mileage. Keep a proper record of this and your settings. When using multiple cells, always end with a bubbler and you may have to include an air intake control valve to regulate the amount of air actually bubbled through your system. This valve can either be attached at your manifold or at the initial air intake pipe. Usually a simple needle valve will do. It should be noted that nitrous hydroxide is produced when the air (nitrogen, oxygen and hydrogen) comes in contact with the electrodes and the ions being produced there. Instead of stripping both hydrogen atoms off the water, only one is removed leaving the OH- ion to combine with the nitrogen. Thus the reaction is: N2 + 2 H20 = 2 N(OH)2 + H2 => N2 + 2 H20 (in combustion) This is an exothermic reaction when combusted under pressure and should give off small quantities of nitrous oxides (NO and NO2). The excess hydrogen and oxygen in the air also recombines to make water and any water vapor expands as steam to further drive the piston. You can also design your system to run in parallel or in series.

Adjusting a multi-cell system is a bit more tricky if you are using this as your only fuel source. Each cell will require a certain amount of voltage and amps to drive the electrolysis, thus as you add more cells, more power will be required. Also, there are limits on the suction force off your intake manifold, thus this may limit the number of cells you run in any series. This you will have to bench test when you build your first cell, as the power requirements will vary based on the types of plates you use and their spacing. Bench test your finished unit with volt and amp meters and test the gas output with your 1liter bottle and bucket, but note that the gas output will be higher under vacuum and you will be producing nitrous hydroxide gas as well when finally hooked up to your engine. Engine settings will be based on first a jacked-up, warmed-up engine test and then on street tests for power settings.

If using this mixed gas as your major or sole source of fuel, you may have to adjust the timing of your engine because this fuel burns faster than gasoline. You will know if your timing is too high because you will hear an engine ping or you will be getting a backfire as you accelerate. Timing Adjustment You may have to adjust the engine timing forward by 5-8 degrees (or more) as the additional hydrogen and nitrous hydroxide gas will cause the gasoline to burn faster and thus sparking before top-dead-center (TDC), as is required with a slower burning fuel, will not be required when hydrogen gas is added. This is controlled at the distributor or electronic ignition system. Bang it with a hammer and give it a twist till the engine runs at its smoothest. Use a sledge hammer. Fortunately most old cars have an adjustment screw below the distributor that you loosen and then give it a twist. Some cars even have a mark on the front pulley that indicates TDC and you can see this with your naked eye or a timing light! Now if you dont have very good eyesight or a timing light, take out a plug and stick a long screwdriver into the cylinder. Jack the drive wheels off the ground, put the car in gear and while your wife or girlfriend slowly turns the tire, you feel with the screwdriver where the piston reaches TDC. Now adjust your timing slowly eyeballing the contact points gap or use a feeler gauge. Tighten everything up and replace the cap then start the engine and adjust again with the mixed gas system on and the wheels still jacked up off the ground. You will now have to lean down your carburetors gasoline intake at the needle valve and maybe even change our carburetor jets. This is where you get better gas mileage. Backfiring: Note that firing at or before TDC may cause the engine to backfire. This is dangerous as it can damage your engine and blow your air filter right off! Be sure to insert safety check-valves on our gas line and use a flame arrestor or a bubbler, and set your timing back as described above. Backfiring can also be effectively controlled in two ways: (1) the addition of water vapor into the fuel intake and (2) increasing engine compression ratios. The addition of water using a bubbler has been discussed above and in Part 1. Increasing your compression ratio is done very easily by just using a thinner head gasket. It is probably best to use both these methods, but higher compression ratios seem to work the best at solving persistent backfire problems using mixed gas or hydrogen only. Backfiring can also be caused by induced premature sparking caused by un-shielded spark plug wires running in parallel from your distributor, or by spark plug grounding caused by rust forming channels from the spark plug electrode to the engine block. If either of these happens, separate your cable placement or change to shielded cables and change your plugs to ones with stainless steel electrodes (Champion makes them).

The timing is easy to adjust with cars that have a distributor as you just loosen this and turn it a bit. Cars with electronic ignition systems may be a bit more difficult depending on the system. Some automatically adjust. Others, particularly fuelinjected cars, will be a real bitch to convert. Can My Old Battery Electrolysis Unit be CONVERTED? Yes. To make your old battery reactor unit into a bubbler unit you will have to drill a hole in the top and run some plastic tubing down to the bottom and connect an airstone or holy tube at the bottom of each cell. The gas OUT will then be fed directly to your intake manifold through a bubbler, of course, and not through your air filter as before. This should give you a performance boost as a result of the vacuum and the additional nitrous hydroxide gas being produced. Mixed Gas and Nitrous Hydroxide OUT AIR IN WATER IN

Now go back and re-adjust your carburetor and engine settings.

Other VARIATIONS:

There are several other variations on this fundamental design that you might want to try. These deal primarily with electrode design and may be used in a water filter canister or old battery casing depending on how you want to do it. The principal variation is to use tubing instead of plates. One variation is to use tubes inside of tubes. Another is to use solid rods inside of tubes. Again as we are using standard electrolysis, the tubes and cores will have to be of different metals.

You can get different types and sizes of metal tubing at any plumbing or hardware store. Solid rods or bolts can also be found there. Again, I prefer stainless steel for the anode and lead rods for the cathode, but long iron bolts will also work just fine. The construction of a tube electrode is simple. You just slip one tube over the other and insert some plastic spacers so that they dont touch each other. Then wire one positive and the other negative. Taaa Daaa! The trick is to make a bunch of these tube electrodes and then bundle them together so that they fit into your water filter canister or battery casing. This may require a top and bottom bracket to hold the tubes in place, like the old combs suggested in Part 1. The gaps should be at least 1.5 mm (3/8). Tube electrodes create an interesting effect in lifting water through the tube. This enhances electrolyte circulation and the cleaning of the electrodes while in use. This effect can be further enhanced by spiraling the water through the tubes by using your spacers at an angle. This will speed up the flow even more.

But be sure to leave enough room around the outside of the cell so that the water can circulate back down to the bottom of the cell. This is a pumping action used in hydraulic water lifting devices and it can move large volumes of water electrolytes. The important point of a tube electrode design is that you should be able to easily replace the cathode (center tube or rod). Your design should be such that you can just pull out the old tube or rod and insert a new one with very little muss or fuss. I prefer iron bolts or threaded rods as these can be screwed through a simple metal plate for easy positioning. But you can also use lead fishing weights on a stainless steel wire provided you can tighten the line down. (So thats what you do with old guitar strings.) Or use lead strips, the kind electricians sometimes use to tie down wires. These lead strips can also be rolled a bit down the center to create a cheap rod and make them much stiffer.

Tube & Bolt Design Water Filter Bubbler Reactor

Air IN

Gas OUT

Metal Plate Iron Bolt Spacers Stainless Steel Tubing

Old Comb See..it is that easy. The top metal plate must also have holes in it to let the gas and air through, but it will act as a damper plate to prevent the electrolyte from splashing around while driving. You can also use a threaded pipe for the air intake and then use a top and bottom plate to sandwich the tubes into place with a nut at the top and bottom of the pipe. This will keep the whole assembly from moving around but you will have to drill some holes in the top of the tubing to let the gas out and put a non-conductive washer or rubber gasket at the top. The bottom plate will also have to have holes drilled so that water and air bubbles can enter the tubing. You will also have to drill two small holes in the water filter cap to run your electrode wires. These will be sealed with epoxy or silicone. Use wire connectors inside the cell so that you can easily pull things apart when cleaning or replacing electrodes.

The whole assembly should mount to the water filter cap through the intake tube, preferably through a screw in fitting. This allows the canister to just be screwed on and off for cleaning. We will be coming back to tube reactors later, so dont just toss this idea away. Another variation is to make your Bubbler/Reactor into a plate reactor. Instead of tubing you go back to plates. These are hooked up just like in your battery reactor. Nothing new here except that some plates may be narrower because of the round shape of your water canister. Finally, one of the neat things about using a plastic water canister is that you can SEE things happening..well, if you did it right. Watch to see what happens when you bench test a unit and then again when it is running with the engine on. The vacuum creates a whole lot of difference.

2. Carl Cellas Hydrogen Unit


This is a variation of the conventional electrolysis design that collects only the hydrogen and vents off or re-circulates the oxygen back to the water tank where it is vented to the atmosphere. The hydrogen gas is then fed into an ordinary LNG gas conversion kit at the carburetor. Pressure Gauge Solenoid Valve Check Valve IRON PIPE or Bolt H2 Insulators O2 Water Stainless Steel Liner Steel-wool Rubber Mountings A potentiometer (pot/variable resistor) placed at the throttle linkage can control the voltage to the electrodes, but this unit is usually run wide open all the time. This pot creates a variable voltage in the reaction chamber that releases controlled amounts of 9 Water + O2 Out Holes Drain H2 Negative Throttle (Pot)

Positive + Casing Separate Lid

Stainless Steel Casing

gas on demand. This control circuit allows adjustments to be made for any type of car. Alternatively, you can produce gas at maximum levels constantly but install a pressure switch on the gas line that will automatically switch off the circuit at a high pressure setting and switch the cell back on at a low pressure setting. Gas flow to the engine is controlled by a standard propane/LNG gas regulator unit that attaches to your carburetor. The hydrogen gas feed is just connected to this device. The use of multiple reactor tubes is recommended due to eventual plating caused by water impurities. A simple flip switch on the dashboard is used to turn on a second or third cell and turn off the cell that needs cleaning. Solenoid valves turn on the feed line of the cell in operation and off all other cells. You could also use a 4-way old scavenged fan switch as your dash controllers. You might even be able to salvage the 0-1-2-3 mounting as well. Use 0 as your kill switch. Carl Cella uses a stainless steel pipe with only 3 iron bolt electrodes as his electrolysis chamber, with only 1-2 cells running at any one time.

Carl Cellas Design


Pressure Gauge Solenoid Valves Negative Electrode Switches Iron Bolts Check Valves Tee Dash Switches

Water IN Stainless Steel Casing & End Plates Bolts Rubber Mounts Casing Charged Positive

Pot OUT

This reactor unit is designed as a LOW pressure unit, thus all through reactor connections must be properly sealed, usually welded, and be able to withstand up to 10-15 psi pressure or more. A rubber gasket or silicon sealant should do for end plates and/or tops. Your pressure switch will keep the pressure usually under 5-10 psi (or much less), but it is good to build in a safety margin and even a pressure release plug (a cork in a hole) or pressure relief valve (available at most plumbing stores).

10

This reactor will normally be set to operate at a lower pressure, but pressure relief valves should be installed on the main gas line and should be vented to the atmosphere at a location where you cannot possibly burn up your car (a tube running into your exhaust for example). Oxygen produced will be carried back to the water tank where it will naturally come out of solution and be vented to the atmosphere. A stainless steel scouring pad may also be attached to the tank wall near the return pipe outlet to increase oxygen release. Note that the entire casing is charged POSITIVE (+) from the battery, thus the casing must have insulated mountings and not come in contact with the car body. A wire is connected to one of the end (or top) plate bolts. This wire is connected to the positive ignition key bus with a 15-20 amp fuse. The hydrogen cells (iron bolts) are charged NEGATIVE (-) and have to be isolated from the casing by using PVC, nylon or rubber liners through which the iron bolts or pipe or other electrode metals are inserted. This has to be properly sealed with silicone, epoxy glue or other non-conductive sealant or be a threaded nylon sleeve (preferred). The negative electrodes run straight down through a T fitting. Mounted to the side of the tee is a one-way check valve to prevent gas from other on cells from flowing back into the reaction chamber. These check valves are also used to prevent backfiring from entering the reaction chamber. The negative electrodes are switched on/off manually from the dashboard switches. These switches can be attached to the pot on the throttle linkage as described before BUT this pot now is NEGATIVE charged (wired from the negative pole of the battery). Also shown are solenoid valves that are activated by the dashboard switches. These can be placed before or after the check valves and are used to open or close each cell, again to prevent backflow of gas or electrolyte from other open cells. As this is a pressure system, it will be best to mount a pressure gauge on the dashboard from the gas line before it is linked to the LNG gas regulator unit. This will give you a visual indicator that gas is being produced at pressure, and when you see pressure starting to build, only then can you start the engine. The gas line is then connected to a bubbler just before the LNG gas regulator as a backfire arrestor and to add a bit of water vapor. The LNG gas regulator is a low-pressure unit that works just like a scuba regulator. When the engine sucks air in, the regulator opens and releases the gas. The more suction the more gas released. This is just a simple spring valve arrangement, but you do have to adjust the gas flow to the air/gas mix going into the engine. Generally, the amount of hydrogen gas to air ratio is less than 5% (1:20) to make your engine run, thus you dont need to make a lot of gas, particularly if you are also injecting water vapor. But the gas does have to be fed to the regulator at pressure in order for it to work properly.

11

Variations in design of the hydrogen electrode can be made as previously discussed. The only thing that you have to make sure of is that this electrode doesnt touch the (+) casing and that you have sufficient surface area. This electrode should also be fairly close to but not touching the positive (+) electrode pipe to allow for better conductance. Different metals used as electrodes will have different spacing requirements for maximum gas output, so experiment. Best results are usually obtained with a spacing of 1-2 millimeters (3/8). As the water is constantly circulated through the chamber it will act as a coolant and will remove both oxygen and some precipitates caused by impurities in the water and the dissolving electrode. These will be returned to the water tank where the oxygen will vent off to the atmosphere and the water impurities will settle to the bottom of the tank. A small 12V DC pump is required to maintain water electrolyte circulation. This can be an ordinary electric fuel pump or aquarium pump provided that the pump can operate at a higher water pressure needed because the cell is now pressurized. This pressure is maintained also by a pressure relief valve on the water OUT line that only lets water out when a predetermined pressure in the cell is reached. A check valve is also required on the water IN side to prevent back-pressure on the pump when the system is turned off. Care must be taken to ensure that the water pump is not pressurizing the cell before the gas is produced as this might cause water to be pumped through the gas lines. The gas system must be turned on first to build up pressure, then only the water pump can be activated. This can be done with a pressure switch on the gas line that turns the pump on only after gas pressure is detected at a pre-set level and off if below such level. Excessive gas pressure due to over-production can also force the water out of the reaction chamber and back into the main water tank. The amount of water left in the chamber will thus be determined by the height of the water OUT tube inside the chamber. If this height is reach, then excess gas will be blown into your main water tank and be vented through your filler tube to the atmosphere. Now worry, but a waste of gas. Attached to the water pump should be a water filter to filter out precipitates and other water impurities in tap water. Standard household water filters are suitable with changeable cartridges. The cartridges will only require very occasional changing, but should be checked and possibly changed every time a cell requires cleaning due to plating. Depending on what material your electrodes are made out of may determine water color as these chemicals become dissolved into solution. Some people wondered about Dingles blue water but if you look at his pictures you see copper tubing being used as electrodes-cum-bubblers. An ionized form of copper turns blue. Cella uses acid as his electrolyte, and if I remember right, it was white vinegar or something from Napa Valley (He lives in California).

12

If a cell dies, turn it off and switch on the next one. Then when you have the time, open up the reactor and check your electrodes, brushing them off with a wire brush or course sand paper. Do the same for the housing and shake out and rinse any scouring pads you dropped in there. If an electrode has been eaten up badly, replace it. And if you have too much sediment build-up in your chamber, check your water tank too and flush it if necessary. No point in wasting a lot of money on new filters if you can solve the problem with a quick flush. The above system should draw about 5-10 amps which is well within the range of most car alternators, but run it with the lights, wipers, heater/aircon on to see if you really have a big enough alternator or need a second battery as back-up when running at night in the rain. An interesting enhancement to this system is the addition of an ultrasonic generator to the casing, particularly one in the 40-50 KHz range as this will shake the gases off their electrodes much faster. If you cant get your hands on a ultrasonic generator or circuit, try some old speakers or attach your cars ignition coil to the casing (it produces ultrasonic vibrations!). The faster you get the bubbles off the electrodes the better. Engine Settings: There are 2-ways to use the hydrogen gas produced in the simple reactor shown here in any internal combustion engine: firstly as an added fuel to increase gas mileage, or secondly as the only fuel. Hydrogen burns faster and hotter than gasoline and less is generally needed to get an internal combustion engine to work. (1) Added Fuel: As an added fuel you simply have to drill a hole in your air filter and attach your hydrogen gas feed there. The gas will be sucked into your carburetor together with the air. This is a simple way of doing it and it will double your present gas mileage. This approach may require a regulator valve to control the flow of the gas. Some experimenters have also used small air pumps to suck the gas off the reaction chamber and blow it into the air filter chamber using a bubbler approach previously discussed. Others run the hydrogen line directly into the intake manifold, but care must be taken here as the vacuum off the manifold can suck your gas and water right into the engine. Systems that use manifold feeds must be directly attached to a bubbler or bubblerelectrolysis unit such as Archie Blues system. The air filter hole method is the simplest delivery system that I have seen and it doesnt require any further modifications to an existing engine. The amount of gas produce can be controlled by the voltage regulator pot on the throttle linkage, but you will have to adjust the gasoline intake at the needle valve and the pot while the engine is running to get best performance.

13

Hydrogen gas makes up only about 4% of the air intake into the engine to give a bang equivalent to gasoline (Browns gas is only about 1%) thus you adjust your gas intake to the air intake based on actual reactor maximum production. A 50:50 hydrogengasoline mix would thus only require 2% gas production. Your engine should work well even on a 90:10 gas/fuel mix ratio. (2) Hydrogen Fuel Only If hydrogen gas is to be used as your only fuel you will need to make some further adjustments to your engine and exhaust system due to the probability of rust. Gasoline has additives that retard combustion and lubricate the combustion chamber and exhaust system. Hydrogen gas does not. You burn hydrogen gas, you get water.hot water vapor! Rust proofing your combustion system involves replacing parts with stainless steel parts (or ceramics). First to go will be the exhaust pipe and silencers. Next are the valves and valve guides, and since you have the heads off, you might as well paint the insides of the headers and exhaust ports with a ceramic coating or glaze them on with a blowtorch. (And put the heads back on with a thinner gasket!) If you use the car regularly, you wont have to worry about the pistons, rings and sleeves being replaced with stainless steel as their movement will keep these surfaces clean, however, if you let the car sit for days, this might be a problem and the engine could jam.then you will have to change them. If you know that you are not going to use your car for some time, just leave the gasoline system connected and switch it on for a few minutes to lubricate the chamber or squirt a bit of oil down the carburetor before shutting down for a rest. As described above, the hydrogen gas is supplied to a normal off-the-shelf gas conversion kit used for propane/LNG conversions. This gas regulator attaches to your carburetor and operates much in the same way as the system above to pre-mix gas and air (from an air filter) straight into the carburetor. The principal difference is that it regulates the flow of low-pressure gas to match engine requirements. As hydrogen gas is lighter and more explosive than propane or LNG, you will have to reset the regulator by leaning it down a bit. Also, as described above, the engine timing will have to be adjusted even further forward to eliminate engine ping caused by the faster detonation of the hydrogen gas. And you will most likely get better results with a higher compression ratio and water vapor addition.

3. The Aussie Cell!

14

So far we have been focusing on normal electrolysis to produce hydrogen, oxygen and nitrous hydroxide gases using two different metals for the electrodes. What happens if the electrodes are the same metal? Well, guys Down-Under in Aussieland have been making cells out of 316 stainless steel only for both the anode and cathode for some time now. This is sort of a Blue/Cella hybrid system that focuses on producing nitrous hydroxide as the main fuel. The cell runs on a pressure vacuum off the intake manifold but only a little bit of air is allowed in at a time so as to maintain a vacuum in the reaction chamber that produces the nitrous hydroxide, hydrogen and water vapor. The basic construction is that of a bubbler reactor of either the water filter type or battery casing type, but the electrodes are both made out of stainless steel. You can even use a Cella type pipe charged positive (+) and an inner pipe as the cathode (-). Air is trickled in through a needle valve at one end and the nitrous hydroxide gas is sucked into your manifold from your gas feed line. You can also run a tube system variation where you wrap the anode with insulated copper wire to create an electromagnet. The number of windings determines the strength of the electromagnet, but this depends on what you want to experiment with and your available size and length of insulated wire. Make sure that the magnetic coils dont short out in the water. Insulate then right through the casing, or in a pipe unit, just wrap the coils around the outside of the whole unit! Needle Valve To Manifold _ + N(OH)2

Pipe or Tube Electrolyzer

Electromagnet

For some reason the electromagnetic field results in up to 10 times more gas output! This obviously has a polarizing effect on the water molecules, particularly the OHand H+ ions, forcing them in opposite directions inside the reactor chamber. There are different types of electromagnets based on the way the wires are wound and the number of windings. Obviously, the stronger that you make your electromagnet, the stronger will be the polarizing field that it creates. Experiment. The low-pressure pull from the manifold vacuum thus draws the nitrogen gas directly into the chamber and through a concentration of hydroxide ions at one end of the electromagnetic field, thus forming the nitrous hydroxide more easily. This unit variation uses only plain water (NO electrolyte acid or base is added), but with a small pinch of rock salt. Ground or mineral water should work fine all by

15

itself. You need some mineral ions in the water to cause the polarization needed in the water molecules, thats all. To test your water you can take an ordinary light bulb with a socket. From your plug/switch, run one wire into a glass of your water and then from the light socket, cut a short wire and run the other one back to the plug. Now dip the short wire into the water (making sure you are properly insulated yourself) and if the light lights up brightly, you have some really good water. If not, add a bit more mineral salts and try again. The water in the cell may take a few days to fully mineralize and for the water to polarize itself properly for maximum gas production, so you may want to bench test your unit for a few days using a small vacuum pump (your wifes vacuum cleaner? Oh yeah!) I havent tried it yet, but one of those small car vacuums may make a very interesting flamethrower! Or blow the gas into a big ole pile sealed at one end and you got yourself a flamin cannon! Woah! What am I thinking? This is dangerous stuff. Be sure not to try these things and always test your gas in a well-ventilated area, preferably outdoors. Safety first.OK! Joes Cells and Browns Gas Another Aussie by the name of Joe Zella uses a pipe reactor in which 4 pipes are inserted one inside the other, charging the inner most and outer pipes POSITIVE and the other inside pipes NEGATIVE.

This cell uses stainless steel pipes and plain (mineralized) water and apparently does all kinds of interesting things. To me it looks like a version of the Aussie Cell noted above and produces nitrous hydroxide. Wrap the outer pipe with an electromagnet and you should get even better performance. Another alternative is to run the gases produced through an electromagnetic coil either inside the chamber at the top where the gases are coming out or wrapped around the gas feed line. This apparently will have an effect on the hydrogen atoms and the way in which the electrons spin. This magnetic field apparently converts normal hydrogen gas (orthohydrogen) into abnormal (parahydrogen) gas, which burns slower and thus will affect your engine timing. No big deal, but it is worth some experimentation.

16

Browns Gas is basically mono-atomic hydrogen (H+) and oxygen gas (O-) that hasnt recombined to form H2 and O2. This results in a greater actual gas volume and a bigger bang (less gas used), because the hydrogen and oxygen atoms dont have to be separated first to form water on combustion. Making Browns gas, however, generally requires lots more energy to keep the gases in a mono-atomic state usually by very high voltage and strong electromagnetic fields. And then the gas lasts only a short time, as the natural reactive affinity of these ions will cause them to recombine. I havent seen a Browns Gas reactor yet that can fit in an engine compartment or one that can run off your cars battery, so though there are some advantages, this isnt a practical alternative yet. If you want to play with ignitions coils and electromagnets on your gas line, let me know the results. Daniel Dingles Water Car: This section would not be complete without a mention of ole Daniel Dingle and his inventions. Ole Dan has been having fun showing off confusing examples of basically the same kind of cells that I have described in Parts 1 and 2. He has used a number of different cell techniques and mixed and matched as I have described above, and then added bits and pieces that dont do anything but add confusion to anyone looking at his operating units. Cleaver boy. His units are fundamentally based on the old battery casing approach that I have described, but he is using each cell differently. For example, one cell is a bubbler only, another produces nitrous hydroxide and is fed into the intake manifold, and another is just normal caustic soda electrolysis cell and is fed into the carburetor. Now stick an ignition coil or speaker on the side of the casing for confusion and run tubing every which way and you got a Ding-Dong-Dingle! Hey, it works! So dont knock it too much. But it isnt worth a patent or millions in royalties. And it would be better if he just opened up and came clean with what he is experimenting with. I see no mysteries..just someone trying to be too cleaver.

Now for PLAN 3! A Saltwater Cell!

17

Anda mungkin juga menyukai