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A comprehensive guide:

Includes Checklists and reporting proformas



Tess Michaels & David Reed


Garden Maintenance for Playspaces
Published by Tess Michaels & David Reed at Smashwords
Copyright 2012 Tess Michaels and David Reed


This ebook is licensed for your personal enjoyment only. This ebook may not be re-sold or
given away to other people. If you would like to share this book with another person, please
purchase an additional copy for each recipient. If youre reading this book and did not purchase
it, or it was not purchased for your use only, then please return to Smashwords.com and
purchase your own copy. Thank you for respecting the hard work of this author


We don't own the land, the land owns us. The land is my mother, my mother is the land. Land
is the starting point to where it all began. It's like picking up a piece of dirt and saying this is
where I started and this is where I'll go. The land is our food, our culture, our spirit and identity.
Knight S., 1996, Our Land Our Life, card, Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Commission,
Canberra

By helping young children know and relate to the soul-making aspects of the natural world, we
connect them to enduring sources of strength, wonder and joy
Rachel Carson, 1956, Help your child to wonder

We would like to thank the following people for their timely advice, professional perspectives,
field testing and general all around encouragement.

Dr Philip J. Landrigan, MD, MSc, Professor of Pediatrics, Director, Children's Environmental
Health Center, Mount Sinai School of Medicine. New York
Fran Hughes, Randwick TAFE, School of Childs Studies, Randwick, New South Wales, Australia
Katherine Morgan, The Point Preschool, Oyster Bay, New South Wales, Australia
Rebecca Andrews, John Brotchie Nursery School, Botany, New South Wales, Australia
Con and Mary Kakakios, Kids Cottage, Gladesville, New South Wales, Australia

About
Tessa Rose Playspace and Landscape Design
Tessa Rose Landscapes is a naturalistic playspace design company focused on creating natural,
sustainable and inspiring play environments. Tess also has a comprehensive Australian blog site
focused on design, children's play and development with heaps of links to resources, literature,
audio and visual downloads and presentations.

Tess Michaels
Tess Michaels is a natural playspace and landscape designer, early childhood teacher and
workshop presenter with a passion for natural play and sustainable outdoor environments for
children of all ages.
Tess has a background in early childhood education initially as a teacher then as a director and
is a member of Early Childhood Australia. She has worked in an assortment of centres, both
private and commercial, community and religious based; she has also worked in varying
capacities in Local, State and Federal government Childcare organisations. Tess has a Diploma in
Horticulture & Landscape design and is a member of The Australian Institute of Horticulture.
Her experience in all these positions led her to believe that it is essential for children in early
childhood to have access to natural, stimulating and aesthetic outdoor environments.

David Reed
David has a background in Early childhood and Before and after care, working with ages 0-15
whilst studying to obtain an Associate Diploma in Child studies and a Certificate lll in
Horticulture & Landscape construction. David operates his own garden maintenance business
specialising in the construction and maintenance of naturalistic playspaces.

Disclaimer: Any products referenced in this guide are mentioned because they have been used in the
construction of playspaces designed by Tessa Rose or in the maintenance of the same. The products were
chosen on the basis that theyre functional, durable, low maintenance and child friendly. No
consideration financial or otherwise was provided to mention them. Any chemical product mentioned
should be used in accordance with the manufacturers directions and a MSDS should be obtained and
read prior to their application. Links to international Safety and MSDS providers can be found here, for
Australia here. If you have any doubt whatsoever about the use of any product within a childrens
service DO NOT USE IT and seek professional advice for alternatives. Any photos used in this publication
are either Property of Tessa Rose, derived from a Creative Commons photographic database (where
commercial use is allowed providing attribution is provided) or if derived from a blog or website they are
used in the form of a pictorial hyperlink to the original site (all property, intellectual and copyrights are
retained by those sites)


Copyright David Reed and Tess Michaels, 2012.

This work is copyright. All rights reserved. Apart from any use permitted under the Copyright Act 1968,
no part may be reproduced by any process, nor may any other exclusive right be exercised, without the
permission of the authors. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or
transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise,
by any person without the written permission of the authors. The views expressed in this book are those
of the authors. Sydney, Australia, 2012.

Given that this is the first printing of this type of document Im certain I have forgotten
something, probably a number of somethings.
I welcome your constructive criticism, constructive advice and specific information about
maintenance practices that you perform that are geographically and culturally specific.
Acknowledgement of the author of the information will be detailed in any subsequent printing.

Please feel free to contact us at tess@tessaroselandscapes.com.au or
david@tessaroselandscapes.com.au or drop by and say GDay at
http://tessaroselandscapes.blogspot.com/.

Playspace Maintenance
Whilst every consideration is given to the design of a safe playspace, playspaces can cause
injuries if they are not maintained in a suitable condition. Playspaces need to be inspected and
maintained regularly to ensure the health and safety of all those using them.

This manual is for the use of educators, parents (and in supervised circumstances, children)
who want to be involved in the maintenance of their playspaces. The manual covers the Who,
What and Where questions and the appendices provide checklists, proformas for reports and
letters and research. You should check your own countries advisory guidelines for specific
information about National, State, Parish or Territory childrens playspace standards.

Inspections
Routine visual inspections of the playspace should be carried out by staff and may be necessary
each day for playspaces that are subject to heavy use. Operational inspections should be
carried out every 3 months and comprehensive inspections should be carried out annually. If
youre unsure or uncertain of your capacity to carry out an inspection, contact KidSafe in your
state or the authorised inspection service in your country.
Routine visual inspection - The daily routine visual inspection is required to identify obvious
hazards. (e.g. damaged parts, loss of soft surfacing or surface grip).
Operational inspection - The operational inspection is a more detailed inspection to check the
operation and stability of the play structures and surfaces, especially looking for any wear.
Comprehensive inspection - The comprehensive inspection is done to assess, preferably
annually, the overall safety of the playspace. This includes the structural integrity of items
subject to the subtle effects of use, weather, corrosion and rotting. This inspection also
assesses any change in the safety of the playspace resulting from repairs made, or added or
replaced components.
Supervision: Appropriate supervision of playspaces must be ensured so that accident and injury
can be avoided. Educators in the playspace environment must be aware of the potential
dangers and develop suitable rules of play for playspace usage.
Accident trends: Accidents and injuries can result from play. Where an item in a playspace or a
manner of play is linked to a number of incidents/accidents, alteration of the item or behaviour
might be required. To monitor incident/accident trends, records should include details of
location and associated play.
The Health and Safety Inspection Checklist (Appendix A) provides guidance on what to look for
when inspecting playspaces. A system of regular inspections, maintenance and upgrading of
the playspace should then be adopted. Consideration should be given to the allocation of funds
for this purpose.
The Incident/Accident reporting form (Appendix B) can be used to detail all information about
events that occur within the playspace, the results and what remedial corrective actions need
to occur to avoid subsequent problems.

Maintenance
The following pages provide information about the establishment of components within
playspaces and list details of periodic maintenance that should be carried out for them to retain
their vitality and safety.

How to use this guide Each item in the index is hyperlinked to the relevant section within the
document. In other words, click on the link once and it will take you there, to return directly to
the index click on the section heading.

Sections
Levels of Maintenance
Occupational Health and Safety and Personal Protection Equipment (PPE)
Personal protective equipment (PPE)
Garden maintenance work safety procedures
Avoid sunburn and dehydration
Using hand tools
Power tools
Using ladders
Lifting and handling materials
Placing equipment/ materials
Preventing slips and trips
Care with organic chemicals
Care with creatures
Turf
Natural Turf
Establishment
Ongoing care
Artificial turf
Ongoing care & cleaning
Plants
Trees, Shrubs, Grasses, Groundcovers, Climbers
Ongoing maintenance
Timber
General
Platforms and decks
Ongoing Care
Blackboards/Chalkboards
Ongoing Maintenance
Garden edging
Surfaces
General
Impact absorbing
Loose fill material
Unitary material
Concrete
Ongoing Maintenance
Permeable paving
Flexible paving (Unitary paving, Sandstone flagging, Decomposed granite, Stoneset,
Cobblestones)
General
Ongoing Maintenance
Sandpit
Ongoing Maintenance
Digging patch
Ongoing Maintenance
Shade sails
Ongoing maintenance
Screening /fencing
Natureed
Ongoing maintenance
Fencing
Ongoing maintenance
Stones/Rocks/Boulders
Ongoing maintenance
Stepping stones
General
Ongoing maintenance
Concrete sleepers
General
Ongoing maintenance
Teepees
Ongoing maintenance
Slides
Polyethylene slides
Fibre glass slides
Stainless Steel Slides
Swings
General
Ongoing Maintenance
Scramble Nets and Rope climbers
Ongoing maintenance
Garden arbours/arches
Ongoing maintenance
Water features & pumps
General
Hand pumps/Rotary pumps
Ongoing maintenance
Water/channel/bowl /rill
Ongoing maintenance
Rainwater tanks
General
Ongoing maintenance
Creek beds
General
Ongoing maintenance
Seats
Recycled plastic seats
General
Ongoing maintenance
Wooden seats, Benches & Storage boxes
Ongoing maintenance
Irrigation System Maintenance
General
Irrigation Controller
Sprinkler System
Drip System
Winterization
Edible gardens
General
Ongoing maintenance
Garden and edible garden mulch covering
Wood chip, sugar cane, tea tree, lucerne and pea straw mulch
General
Ongoing maintenance
Appendix A Monthly Playspace Health and Safety Inspection Checklist
Appendix B Incident/Accident report
Appendix C Irrigation inspection Checklist
Appendix D Information advice proforma for use when using
herbicides/fungicides/pesticides in a playspace
Appendix E Toxoplasmosis, Melioidosis and Silicosis
Appendix F Treated timber in playspaces, CCA, ACQ , LOSP & Tanalith E.
Bibliography

Levels of Maintenance
Some maintenance duties outlined below are simple (e.g. raking a pathway, watering plants)
and you can complete them yourself or with a group of eager junior helpers. They require
minimal or no instruction, usually do not require specialised equipment and pose no safety
risks.
More difficult tasks (e.g. spreading sugar cane (SC) mulch on an edible garden bed, re-potting or
planting new plants) may require a level of prior preparation/organisation, assessment of any
possible risks as well as safety equipment (e.g. masks for asthmatic children who may react to
SC mulch/potting mix, child sized gardening equipment or an outdoor bench at child height)
Physically complex and detailed maintenance tasks (e.g. trimming a hedge or trees, sanding or
painting a wooden structure) should only be undertaken by adults, preferably under the
supervision of a nominated organizer who has either training, knowledge and or experience in
the tasks to be undertaken.
Specialised maintenance tasks (e.g. anything involving the use of pesticides, herbicides,
fungicides, motorised or power equipment, plumbing, irrigation) should only be undertaken by
individuals who have been specifically trained and hold a current qualification that allows them
to carry out the task with no risk to themselves, you, your peers, children in your care or your
playspace. Ideally they should hold public and personal liability insurance and certification from
the relevant State or Federal work standards compliance regulator.

Occupational Health and Safety Personal and Protection Equipment (PPE)
Although, gardening is fun and relaxing, maintaining a playspace, like any activity has hazards.
Any and all can be eliminated with the appropriate PPE (for you and any young helpers) and by
following the work safety procedures detailed below;
Personal protective equipment (PPE)


From left: Always use appropriate P.P.E - Log sleeve trousersand shirt & hat, The appropriate gloves for the task,
Ear/eye protection, dust masks and rain gear, If mixing chemicals you should use acid resitant gloves.

Safety glasses should be used to shield your eyes from any sharp objects, dust or chemical drift.
Gloves keep your hands clean but can also save you from insect bites, splinters, blisters and
exposure to hazardous chemical and organic products.
Masks ensure that you do not breathe in any dust, spores or chemical or organic products.
Stout footwear will protect against dropped tools, sharp sticks, insects and animals.
A hard hat is a must when using power tools or assisting someone who is working above you.
Ear muffs/Defenders are essential when using any motorised or power tools.
An appropriate hat and long sleeves/trousers should be wore for sun protection

Garden maintenance work safety procedures
Avoid sunburn and dehydration - Follow the 5 actions to be Sun Smart: Slip, Slop, Slap, Seek
(shade), and Slide (on sunnies). Wear a hat to avoid sunburn. Wear sunglasses to protect your
eyes. If you sunburn easily, consider wearing a lightweight light-coloured long-sleeved shirts
and pants. Use plenty of sunscreen to avoid sunburn (most people dont use enough cream for
it to be truly effective. Its recommended to use 1 tablespoon per limb). Drink lots of uids, at
least a cup every half hour when its really hot, alternate between water and sports drinks
(isotonic uids)
Some common products increase sun sensitivity; cosmetics with alpha hydroxyl acids (AHAs)
make you more sensitive to the sun and its aging effects. Some medications do too, like
tetracycline antibiotics, sulfonamides such as Bactrim, non-steroidal anti-inammatories like
Ibuprofen, some uoroquinolones. (If you are taking medication, ask your pharmacist).


From left: Safely carry multiple tools Wheelbarrows, A converted wicker basket , Gardening aprons, A purpose
built tool caddy.

Using hand tools To you using hand tools may seem like common sense, however not
everyone may share your level of knowledge or competence. If you have helpers assisting you
take the time to show them how to use each tool safely and follow up with some brief visits to
ensure they are performing the task properly. If you are taking more than one or two tools into
the garden carry them into the garden in a wheelbarrow, bucket or a basket its safer for your
back and stops people tripping over them.
Before using a spade, garden fork, rake or other long handled tool, look to make sure there is
nobody behind or beside you so that you dont hit them with the tool. When you have finished
using a garden tool place it out of the way of people. Never lay a tool across a path or place it in
long grass where it is hidden and where people could trip over it. Lean a garden rake or long
handled tool against something when you put it aside. If you have to lay it down, place it away
from where people might walk. Place it with the pointed tangs or blade on the ground, not
pointing up. Alternatively, when putting a garden spade, shovel or fork aside, push it into the
soil so that it remains upright and visible. Carry tools such as spades, garden forks and rakes in
your hand rather than over the shoulder. Carried on the shoulder, it is easy to hit someone
accidentally if you turn around and they are close by.
Before you use cutting tools visually check them to ensure they are in good working order. Keep
all cutting tools sharp so that you do not need to use extra force. If using a pruning knife, use a
knife with a locking blade, not a pen-knife that can close on your nger. Always cut away from
yourself and hold the tool in your stronger hand. Clean all sap off cutting tools, the sap will
increase friction if allowed to dry.
When using secateurs, loppers or extendable tree loppers lock them when not in use. Use the
right tool for the job. Do not twist pruning instruments while cutting and dont try to cut
branches that are too large. If you are doing a repetitive task, stop to rest your hands
occasionally or vary the job with something else. Keep all pruning instruments clean (use
bleach to prevent the spread of disease).


From left: Power tools should only be used by qualified or experienced individuals Chainsaw, blower, hedger,
Power Mower, Power Mulcher

Power tools - You may choose to use power tools such as electric blowers or hedgers in your
maintenance work. Before using any tool ensure that you have read its instruction manual and
are fully aware of its functions and safety protocols. Before each use, inspect tools, power
cords, and electrical ttings for damage, wear or exposed wiring. If you find any defect or fault
tag it for repair and do not use it.
When using any kind of power tool, be very careful that nothing gets caught in moving parts.
Avoid wearing jewellery such as bracelets and rings. Tie back long hair, and keep clothing,
ngers and toes away from machinery.
Always unplug tools when they are not in use. Pull on the plug, not the cord. Dont pull out a
plug when your hands are wet or when you are touching metal. Secure electrical extension
cords to prevent them becoming tripping hazards. Know where the breakers and fuse boxes are
located in case of an emergency, and make sure that nothing is blocking access to them. Check
to see if all circuit breakers and fuse boxes are labelled so you can tell which appliances or plugs
they feed. Always use ladders made of wood or other non-conductive materials when working
with or near electricity such as overhead power lines and always use a two-pronged extension
cord.
Using ladders - Step ladders and extension ladders are commonly used in garden maintenance.
You need to ensure that the appropriate ladder is available and used for the specic tasks that
you may want to perform.
When using any ladder ensure you place it on a rm level surface. Make sure the areas around
the base and the top of the ladder are clear of obstructions. Avoid contact with wiring or
electrical cords, especially if you are using a metal ladder. Try to position the ladder away from
walkways to prevent collisions. Ensure that the ladder rungs are free of oil, grease or other
slippery substances, and wear slip resistant footwear. Climb with both hands. If you need to
take something up, have someone pass it to you from below. When you are on the ladder, keep
your centre of gravity between the side rails, especially if you need to carry materials.
Regular inspection of ladders should be included as part of regular safety inspections and
broken ladders need to be identied and repaired as soon as possible. Take a close look at the
ladder before you use it to ensure that no parts are broken, cracked or missing. When using
step-ladders ensure that the spreaders are engaged and properly locked in place before
climbing. Dont climb past the second rung from the top (Never use the top two steps of a step
ladder) and if possible, brace yourself with your free hand.
When using extension ladders use the 4 to 1 rule: The ladder base should be 1 unit out from a
wall for every 4 units up and never climb past the third rung from the top. Never lean the
ladder against moveable objects. Make sure that the safety feet are intact and undamaged.
Keep three points of contact with the ladder at all times. Always have a spotter to support the
ladder from the bottom. If you must place the ladder in front of a gate, block the gate or block
off the feet of the ladder so they cant move.
Lifting and handling materials - When lifting something heavy, bend your knees and crouch
down, then lift it by straightening your legs, and get assistance if you think it might be too
heavy. To avoid back injury, do not bend over to pick up something that is heavy. Whenever
possible, avoid manually lifting and carrying awkward or heavy objects. Instead, use mechanical
devices such wheelbarrow.
Before you lift something, take a few moments to plan it out distribute your weight evenly,
place your feet apart for good balance, bend your knees so that the stronger muscles in your
legs take most of the load, balance the load you are carrying between both hands, minimize the
distance you need to reach when picking up the object, get a good grip, use your hands, not
just your ngers, hold the object as close to your body as possible, between your knees and
shoulders , lift smoothly and slowly, dont twist your back, pivot your feet if you need to turn
while carrying something.
When performing repetitive lifts stop to stretch and rest your back every so often or switch
tasks now and then to use different muscles. Know your strength. Dont overdo it. If it makes
sense, try to work with a partner to share the load. But if you do, communicate clearly so that
your partner knows what movements to expect.
Placing equipment/ materials- Designate an area of the garden for placing materials and
equipment. Place them so that they are unlikely to fall over or spill. Place heavier materials
close to the ground and lighter materials on top of these. Stack materials neatly so that they are
easily accessible and out of the way of paths and places where people walk.
Preventing slips and trips - Slipping and falling in the garden can be avoided if appropriate
attire is worn and potential hazards are dealt with immediately. Ensure you and anyone
assisting you is wearing non-slip footwear that ts properly, is clean free from oil and grease.
Make sure pathways are free of clutter any obstacle is moved as soon as youre aware of it.
When watering make sure the hose lies at without loops or curls. Prevent moss from building
up on stairs and outdoor surfaces.
Care with organic chemicals - The use of organic controls for garden pest and plant disease
management should be done under the guidance of a gardener or adviser who has experience
and is knowledgeable of the precautions to be taken in production, handling and application,
and use chemicals at the correct concentration. It is essential and in some states the law to put
up a pesticide spray notice if you plan to use pesticides or herbicides (for further information
see the sections on Plants and Permeable paving).
Care with creatures - Its a fact of nature that flowers tend to attract insects such as bees and
wasps. However bees and wasps rarely sting unless they are aggravated. To lessen the
likelihood of bees or wasps being attracted to you avoid the use of perfumes, colognes or
overly scented soaps and do not wear brightly coloured, patterned clothing if you are going into
an area where there are likely to be bees or wasps. Stay calm if a bee or wasp lands on you, it
will eventually leave of its own accord. If you dont want to wait for it to leave, slowly and
gently brush it away. Do not try to pick up bugs, spiders and other creatures you come across.
They might defend themselves by biting, stinging or scratching. Look before lifting buckets,
watering cans, boxes and other things, insects sometimes nest in them. WEAR GLOVES when
gardening.

Turf
Natural Turf


From left: Turf care Allow newly laid turf an establishment period, Little and often watering, Aerating
compacted turf, Turf die back due to constant traffic & compaction of soil

Establishment Once turf is laid it will require between 4- 6 weeks to establish a root system
from which water and sustenance is derived. Turf like most plants also requires oxygen which it
draws from between the particles of soil on which it sits. For these reasons it is absolutely
necessary that there be NO foot or vehicle traffic on the turf for the period indicated above.
A common mistake made by many people during establishment is to over water. The 'little and
often' rule should apply to ensure the new roots not be allowed to dry out. The water regime
should be relatively constant and at a level the developing roots can collect it.
Ongoing care - Your turf will need mowing after the establishment period (depending on
variety and season). A good indication of when to start mowing would be when the turf cannot
be lifted. Watering can be reduced to approximately 1 or 2 good soakings per week. Mow every
two weeks during the warmer months and every fourth during the colder (East Coast, Australia-
Mediterranean climate) generally removing no more than 1/3 of the grass height at a mowing,
and always keep your mower blades sharp.
A controlled release nitrogen rich fertiliser should be applied and well watered in every 6 to 8
weeks in the growing season to maintain healthy green turf. Fertilise your turf three times in
Autumn, once in March, another time in April with the same type of fertiliser and again in May
with an organic base type of fertiliser such as Turf Lifter or another similar product.
Periodic renewal Top dressing of lawns is carried out only to correct deficiencies in the profile
of the lawn. There are a variety of mixtures available for dressing some containing fertilisers
and major/minor elements and minerals; however, coarse washed river sand is the ideal
material to use. Topdressing should be carried out during the growing season, allowing the
grass to recover quickly and reducing any possible weed infestation. Top dressing applications
should be light - no more than 10mm and the grass leaf should be still visible through the
topdressing allowing the plant to continue to grow.
Heavy traffic areas and areas that are to subject heavy inundation may die back partially or
completely due to compaction of the soil (no oxygen). These areas can be removed manually
with a shovel or a turf cutter and new rolls installed in their place. The same rules for
establishment apply to these patched areas. If the turf continually dies off/back in the same
spot consideration should be given to aerating the soil more frequently, cordoning off the area
when you first notice the die back, the installation of a pathway or stepping stones or a review
of the drainage in the area.

Artificial turf
Some Childcare centres may find it preferable and practical to use artificial turf in their
playspaces due to exceptionally high traffic, excessive shade, extreme weather conditions, or
being positioned in an area that would not allow the installation of real turf (raised slabs,
rooftop playspaces etc).


From left: Good quality, well installed artificial turf is usually guaranteed for 5-10 years

Ongoing care & cleaning - Routine maintenance should include keeping the surface clean of
debris, especially that which may decay into the infill, and occasionally sweeping the fibres up
to revitalize the appearance of the turf.

Rain is your best cleanser. Rainfall gently cleans the turf fibres of dust, pollen and airborne
pollutants in a way that is difficult to duplicate in any other fashion. In areas where rainfall is
scarce-or during prolonged periods of drought-an occasional water flush is beneficial to soak
and thus cleanse the turf system. Do not use any tools that may damage the surface and do not
use solvents like acetone or cleaning materials containing alcohol.

From left: Monitor heavily used areas and seams

Pay special attention to the most heavily used areas. Keep extra sand or rubber infill as after a
minor settling period, you may wish to fill-in any minor low spots. If you encounter a low
spot, take a bucket of infill, locate the spot and apply several thin layers of infill to the area and
brush into the fibres with a stiff street broom or small hand held fibre scrub brush (such as is
used to hand scrub floors). Brush in several directions.
Every loose foreign object, no matter how small, can damage your artificial turf by abrading the
fibres and/or contaminating the fill. Remove all leaves, twigs, paper and any other waste items
on a regular basis.
To keep the infill from compacting and to limit the fibres from matting down, brush your
artificial turf on a semi regular basis. Always brush in opposite directions, as continuous
brushing in one single direction will produce unacceptable pile lean. In the case of seams
splitting, they should be repaired as soon as possible to prevent the situation from becoming a
tripping hazard.
Do not park vehicles on your turf nor allow hot engine exhaust to be discharged onto the turf
for extended periods. Prevent lubricating oil, grease, transmission fluids, etc., from dripping or
spilling on to your turf surface, such spills can cause discoloration. Battery acid and other such
corrosive fluids should not be allowed.
Artificial turf fibres are highly stain resistant because most stains are moisture borne and the
polyolefin-based fibres tend not to absorb moisture. Hence, most stains on artificial turf are
not true stains but rather residues of foreign matter that must be promptly and thoroughly
removed. Most stains can be removed with water or soap and water. The first rule is
promptness. It is much easier to clean up a fresh spill before it has time to dry and harden.
Remove any solid or putty-like deposit promptly using a dull knife or spatula-like tool. Enforce a
smoke-free environment, if possible, and discourage the use of fireworks, fires and chewing
gum.

Plants
Trees, Shrubs, Grasses, Groundcovers, Climbers


From left: Newly installed plant dead from lack of water, a dangerous Lomandra longifolia has been tamed,
Casuarina fronds have changed the soil acidity killing the turf, An established tree suffering from gall.

Establishment whether the plants are positioned in the ground or in containers they require a
specific level of care (watering, fertilising, mulching, staking and monitoring) during the period
they establish a functioning root system.
Water plants on a regular basis throughout the establishment period to ensure that the rootball
is maintained in a moderately moist condition and the plants are free of moisture stress. Place
mulch over the rootzone to reduce water loss. Water should be directed to the rootball with a
hand held hose for no less than 60 seconds for each plant.
Prior to the application of fertilizers, temporarily rake back the mulch to expose the topsoil.
Apply a 6-8 month Controlled Release Fertilizer in early Autumn. The fertilizer should be a
balanced formulation containing all essential macro-nutrients and trace elements for normal
plant growth. Modify the formulation where required for Native Australian phosphorus
sensitive species. A slow release formulation using micro-pill technology is preferable. The
fertilizer is best applied evenly to the rootzone by hand at the manufacturers recommended
rate. Following fertilizer application, replace the mulch and replenish mulch cover as required.
Check and adjust stakes and ties on a regular basis to ensure no damage or injury occurs to the
plant stem, branches or foliage. Adjust ties as required to ensure sufficient movement of the
plant stem to allow natural strengthening under normal weather conditions. Remove ties when
sufficient anchorage and increase in stem taper and calliper has developed for the tree to
support itself without overturning or excessive bending of the stem. Climbers require a trellis or
gardening string line to elevate themselves. Ensure the appropriate support is present and the
tendrils are headed in the correct direction
Ongoing maintenance with all plants, both bark and leaves should be monitored for the
presence of pests and diseases as well as consideration given to their general appearance. Do
they appear to be failing to thrive in comparison to contemporaries planted at the same time?
Are they shedding leaves (out of season for deciduous) which may indicate over/under
watering or a disease?
Where necessary corrective action should be carried out promptly to minimise damage to plant
material and avoid death or loss of plants.
Organic mulches, such as composted materials and woodchip, should be replenished as
required to ensure a minimum coverage of between 50mm thickness and a maximum of
100mm thickness (depending on the type and coarseness of the mulch and the plant) to the
area surrounding the plant. Mulches should not be placed in direct contact with the plant
stem. The mulch material used should if possible be the same as the original mulch cover
installed at planting.
Control weed growth within the root zone area on a regular basis to minimise competition for
moisture and nutrients. Weeds should be eradicated before they reach 100mm in height.
Weeds should be removed manually by hand or using hand held implements ensuring minimal
soil disturbance.
It is imperative to monitor and control pests and diseases to ensure that plants are maintained
in a healthy and vigorous condition and growth rate is not compromised. Minor pest
infestations should be controlled by hand removal of the insects.


From left: Lack of maintenance means Morning glory (MG) has overtaken the sandpit. MG is a dangerous
hallucinogenic. Arrowhead vines (syngonium podophyllum) has grown under a boundary fenceline.
Contact/ingestion will cause demetalogical eye and gastric irritation, Grevilleas from a neighbouring yard. The
flowers and seed pods contain toxic hydrogen cyanide.The alkyl resorcinols in G.banksii and Grevillea 'Robyn
Gordon' can causer contact dermatitis.

Alternatively, where systemic pesticides or fungicides are required, apply to the infestation
evenly at the manufacturers recommended rate. Spraying should only be undertaken when the
weather conditions are fine and calm and there is no anticipated rainfall within the ensuing 24
hours.
Pesticides/fungicides should only be mixed and applied by qualified individuals wearing the
appropriate P.P.E.; residuals should be disposed of as per manufacturers directions.
Consideration should be given as to when the spraying takes place, (preferably a period should
elapse between the spraying and the chance of children coming in contact with the plant) If any
children in care have any prior recognised allergy or immune conditions, chemical pesticides
and fungicides should NOT be used. There are a number of natural pest diseases controls which
may be trialled instead.
When mowing & edging near plants care should be taken not to damage flowers, stems, leaves,
bark or trunks. Damaged can be minimised by maintaining the full extent of mulch cover
around the plants as originally specified.
Plants should be pruned when, if and as required. Remove dead tree branches of greater than
10mm in diameter as required (an Arborist may be required depending on the height and
position of the branch). Selectively remove branches on plants as required to promote proper
form and branching habit, typical for the natural growth habit of the species. For species with
an outward branching habit, ensure the development of a dominant central leader. Remove
lesser competing leaders where required. Ensure than no greater than 25% of the total foliage
area is removed at any one time. Remove crossing and rubbing branches to ensure proper
form, branching habit and air flow as required. For trees remove branches progressively as the
tree matures to ensure that no greater than one-third of the total height of the tree is removed
at any one time.
Use only clean, sharp pruning implements for all pruning work, ensuring that cuts are made
without damage, tearing or bruising of vascular tissue. Prior to pruning trees, ensure
compliance with the relevant Local Government Authoritys Tree Preservation Plan.

Timber
General - Timber, when used anywhere outdoors is subject to deterioration. Some timbers are
less susceptible because of their natural composition (hardwoods) whilst other softwood
construction timbers are specially vacuum treated with chemical sealants to protect them from
moisture and insects. In the past treatment was usually done using a Copper Chrome Arsenic
compound (CCA). Appendix F provides a comprehensive summary of timber treated with CCA,
ACQ, LOSP & Tanalith E and links to studies by a number of national and international research
establishments.
Platforms and decks - The three main reasons decks degenerate are because of:
Sunlight - ultra violet rays break down the bonds between wood cells, particularly on the
surface
Moisture water seeps into the wood and causes it to expand and crack when it dries
Insects try to choose a wood that is naturally resistant or ensure your timber is pressure
treated with an appropriate sealant.
Annual Care - In order to keep your timber deck looking its best; it must be kept clean and well
maintained. It is a good idea to inspect your deck at least annually to ensure that it is in good
condition.


From left: A poorly maintained timber retaining wall has started to twist and rot

Failure to maintain your deck may cause discolouration and the surface may become rough and
prone to splinters. A poorly maintained deck is also susceptible to mould, which can make the
surface slippery and therefore dangerous. This may lead to the onset of rot. Cleaning, treating
and sealing your deck will prevent all this and preserve your investment.
Prior to cleaning your deck you should inspect it carefully for loose boards and protruding nails
or screws. Make any necessary repairs. Any loose or damaged boards should be resecured or
replaced, If nails or boards are popping up or coming loose, do not simply pound the old nails
down again; remove them and replace them with longer nails, special decking nails, or decking
screws. If the foundation of your deck was built with pressure-treated lumber rated for ground
contact, the wood will be very resistant to rot, however examine all areas where deck boards
come into contact with any joists, or any point that comes into contact with the ground. These
areas are particularly susceptible to moisture damage.
Clean the deck by hosing it down with an appropriate cleaning solution. Many solutions
contain bleach or other harmful chemicals, so ensure this does not come into contact with any
children, pets and plants in the area. The deck should then be scrubbed and rinsed. It is
important to not only remove dirt, but any algae or moss that may be growing on the deck.
After the cleaning has been completed, lightly sand the deck in the direction of the timber. This
will remove any splinters and damage to the timber.
Before the decking finish is applied, cover areas around the deck that need protection such as
plants and furniture. Once the deck is dry a sealant can be applied. Sealant can be brushed,
rolled or sprayed on. Good quality sealants contain ultra-violet sunlight protection to reduce
the damaging effects of the sun. Oils and film coatings are the most types of sealant for timber.
Oils penetrate the wood, whilst film coatings form a layer on top of the wood. Oils need to be
reapplied every six to 12 months, depending on environmental conditions such as exposure to
sunlight, heat and water. Film coatings usually last longer and only need to be reapplied every
12 to 18 months. Allow the sealant to dry. Products vary on the amount of coats, but up to
three coats of sealant may be needed to fully protect exposed timber.
If the deck has turned grey from natural weathering or is discoloured due to metal filings or
other construction materials, a solution of oxalic acid crystals mixed with water, a light sanding
and a new coat of decking finish will help bring it back to its natural beauty. Use with care and
follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully.
Ongoing Care - To ensure against future damage, if any part of your deck stays wet for a day or
more after a rainfall, take steps to see that it can dry out. You'll probably need to use a leaf
blower or a broom to sweep away leaves and dirt from between boards. Debris between deck
boards soaks up water, promoting rot. Use a putty knife or a plastic laminate scoring tool to
remove it.
Blackboards/Chalkboards - Blackboards/Chalkboards are usually constructed by edging a sheet
of marine ply with timber, priming the surface of the ply and then painting the ply with a
number of coats of blackboard paint.


From left: Double sided chalkboards and perspex painting areas, Outdoor chalkboards on structures

Ongoing maintenance - As previously mentioned any timber used outdoors is subject to
deterioration due to the effects of sunlight and moisture. Depending on your climate the
perimeter of your blackboard/chalkboards may require sanding and resealing and the surface
may require recoating annually.
Most blackboard paints require between 4-6 hours between coats and its preferably to do the
painting on a windless day. To avoid over-painting you can fix masking tape along the boards
edging (peel it off whilst the paint is still wet).
Garden edging - Garden edging is usually used to delineate one area from another or to
restrain (soil or mulch). Usually edging is made from a H4 timber (treated pine rated for in-
ground use) and is held in place using similarly treated pegs. Edging may also be made of
aluminium, brick or stone. Initial construction will be flush to the ground or at a height that
presents no tripping hazard.


From left: Aluminium edging seperates areas without posing a tripping hazard

Maintenance in this instance consists of a periodic visual/physical inspection of the edging
material to ensure it has not come loose from its anchoring points, exclusion of children from
the area if it has and quick remedial repair to restore its function.

Surfaces
General - Playspaces have different areas for different uses. Hard paved areas are required for
ball games and wheels, large open running areas are usually grassed, and soft surfaces are
obligatory under any equipment from which a child could fall.


From left: Different materials provide challenge and developmental opportunity

Different surfaces/construction
Outside play should stimulate a child's imagination, provide excitement and adventure in safe
surroundings, and allow scope for children to develop their own ideas of play. Ideally play
environments will encourage development of motor skills and offer children challenges to
develop physical skills and to find and test their limits. In order to provide these challenges, a
balance must be reached between risk and safety. To a young child, the height of equipment
presents a challenge and allows them to feel they are taking a risk. Soft fall does not remove
the challenge, but it does reduce the risk if a child falls.
Impact absorbing - Impact absorbing material (soft fall) should be provided under all play areas
with a potential fall height of 600 mm (10/07/2014) or greater above ground level. Each area
should have soft fall extending outward from its perimeter in all directions a distance 1.5metres
(10/07/2014), (Check that no concrete, pavers, gravel or other hard surfaces have been moved
within this zone since it was constructed).
There is no one ideal impact absorbing surface and your choice will depend on a variety of
considerations. However, any surface chosen must be certified by its supplier/installer to meet
AS/NZS 4422: 1996 in respect to playspace surfacing and should be maintained so it continually
meets this standard. The two main types of materials are loose fill (such as bark, woodchip or
sand) and unitary, or solid, materials (rubber or synthetic compounds).
Loose fill material should be installed to whichever is the greater depth: 300mm or the depth
that has been specified for the height of the play areas. An extra 20% is required for heavy
traffic areas or areas that may become compacted. The kinds of materials available are pine
bark, composted bark/chip products, sand, and wood chips. These surfaces need to be raked
and replenished regularly to maintain an even depth.
A unitary material is a material which is laid as a solid or whole piece. Products include
synthetic grass, rubber compounds formed into sheets, tiles, or mats, and 'wet pour' rubber
substances that are mixed and trowelled into place on site. The cushioning effect of these
materials varies according to the thickness of the layer and the composition of the material.
Use a tested and approved material and have the manufacturer specify the required depth to
match your equipment height. Unitary materials are recommended in heavy traffic areas such
as under swings. Whichever surface is being used it is important that it is maintained and
checked on a regular basis.
Loose fill material - Regular raking (preferably daily) of sand or soft fill to ensure it is not
compacted and maintains its impact absorbing properties and will also help to locate foreign
objects such as branches, rocks, toys, glass bottles and syringes so they can be promptly
removed. These materials may also require fluffing and or topping up to hold their soft fall
properties and should be turned over every 6 to 12 months depending on the material used.


From left: When good softfall goes bad - Soft fall has been allowed to compact and has not been raked or topped
up. The area has not been inspected for debris, Sand has blown out of an uncovered sandpit and permeated
softfall turning it rock hard.

Unitary material - Normally requires very little maintenance however over a period of time can
show signs of losing its original form. Rubber surfaces come in two main types black shred and
granule. Both can be oxide coloured or pre coloured, which looks great initially. It is known to
lose most of its colour and go back to black over time, depending on abrasives like sand that
can wear the coloured surface. The most colour fast rubber material is known as EPDM
granules because the colour pigment goes through it. This can hold its main colour in most
cases but may fade from UV light. A high pressure cleaner can sometimes take off the milky
surface to bring its colour back to life.
Rubber can shrink in some cases and is known to split on joins. Depending on how well its
holding in place will make a difference to the method of repair. NB: It is most important that
the sub base for artificial grass and rubber are prepared correctly. When prepared and laid
correctly, the longevity of both surfaces is increased. If it is not, then the surface product may
be compromised as time goes on.


From left: Softfall that hasn't been installed properly will deteriorate, Tree roots + softfall = fail.

Concrete Concrete is used in many playspaces in the form of pathways, bike tracks, or flat
level surfaces that can be utilised for ball games. Concrete can be finished to give a variety of
surface textures/colours and can be coated with acrylic compositions that provide slip
resistance as well as colour/patterns. Depending on the supplier/installer the warranty on the
product is between 5 to 10 years.
Concrete is usually reinforced internally with steel mesh. If the concrete wears, crumbles or is
cracked or is broken to expose the mesh then the steel is subject to oxidation (rust). The rust
will cause spreading red blooms which will stain the concrete and can move along the mesh
causing concrete cancer i.e. weakening of the structure. Concrete slabs are usually
constructed with a fall in their surface level to facilitate water drainage (usually away from
any nearby buildings or towards stormwater drainage points).
Ongoing Maintenance Concrete surfaces and coatings should be visually inspected quarterly
and annually for cracking, crumbling of the composition, unusual wear patterns in the surface
coating and pooling of water. Ensure that the surface is swept weekly or after heavy rain.
Vegetation left on the concrete after rain can present a slipping hazard in addition to the
tannins leaching into the concrete.
Surfaces can also be hosed or cleaned with a pressure washer. Pressure washing can be carried
out using a portable pressure washer (up to 150bar rating) to remove dirt, grime and moss
providing care is taken not to damage the surface with excessive pressure. Only cold water
should be used and the water lance must be kept at least 200mm from the materials surface
and a fan type jet used. The surface should be dried completely by using a leaf blower or by
waiting 24 hours, before pedestrian traffic is allowed to utilise it.


From left: Surface coatings may crack if the substratum shifts

Other stains that may cause discoloration to the concrete are listed below, as are removal
techniques. If your concrete is coated with an acrylic coating, is coloured with an oxide, is
sealed or painted then the individual installer/supplier should be consulted as to removal
techniques.
Chemical cleaning is often the best way to remove stains because most chemicals do not alter
the surface texture of the concrete nor do they require the equipment needed by mechanical
methods. Organic solvents can usually be used with little dilution. Inorganic solvents such as
ammonium hydroxide, sodium hypochlorite, and hydrogen peroxide can be purchased in ready-
mixed solutions; other organic solvents can be purchased as solids and then mixed with water
according to manufacturers directions.
Whenever you use chemical cleaners there are safety considerations: many chemicals are mild
and safe if used with care, while others are toxic, flammable, or corrosive to concrete.
Manufacturers directions and recommendations for the protection of occupational health and
safety should be carefully followed. Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) should be obtained
from the manufacturers of such materials. In cases where the effects of a chemical substance
on occupational health and safety are unknown, chemical substances should be treated as
potentially hazardous or toxic materials.
Rust - If the stain is light or shallow, mop the surface with a solution of oxalic acid and water.
Wait 2 or 3 hr, and then scrub the surface with stiff brushes while rinsing with clear water. If
the stain is deep, prepare a poultice by mixing sodium citrate, glycerol, and diatomaceous earth
or talc with water and trowel the poultice over the stain. If the stain remains when the poultice
is removed after 2 or 3 days, repeat the process as necessary.
Oil - If the oil is freshly spilled, soak it up with absorbent paper; do not wipe it up. Cover the
stain with a dry powdered material such as Portland cement, hydrated lime, cornmeal, or cat
litter. Wait approximately 24 hr then sweep it up. Scrub the remaining stain with scouring
powder or a strong soap solution. If the stain is old, cover it with flannel soaked in a solution of
equal parts acetone and amyl acetate. Cover the flannel with a pane of glass or a thin concrete
slab for 10 to 15 min. Repeat if necessary. Rinse when the cleaning process is complete.
Grease - Scrape the grease from the surface. Scrub with scouring powder, strong soap or
detergent. If the stain persists, make a stiff poultice with one of the chlorinated solvents.
Repeat if necessary. Rinse.
Dirt - Most dirt can be removed with plain water or with a soft brush and water containing a
mild soap. If a stronger solution is necessary, use 19 parts water to 1 part hydrochloric acid. If
the dirt contains a lot of oil, use the methods for removing lubricating oil. Also, steam cleaning
is generally effective for removing dirt. If the dirt is clay, scrape off all that has hardened and
scrub the stain with hot water.
Mould/Mildew/ Algae There are a number of commercial mould/mildew/algae cleaners
available however you can also use a mix of powdered detergent with commercial sodium
hypochlorite solution and water. After applying the mixture, wait a few days and then scrub the
area. Rinse with clear water. Caution: sodium hypochlorite solution bleaches coloured concrete
and may corrode metal.
Asphalt - Chill molten asphalt with ice or freeze spray. Scrape or chip it off while it is brittle.
Then scrub the area with abrasive powder and rinse thoroughly with water. Do not apply
solvents to emulsified asphalt as they will carry the emulsions deeper into the concrete. Scrub
with scouring powder and rinse with water. Use a poultice of diatomaceous earth or talc and a
solvent to remove cutback asphalt. When the poultice has dried, brush it off.
Efflorescence - Most efflorescence can be removed soon after it forms by washing or by a scrub
brush and water. After the efflorescence has begun to build up a deposit, it can be removed by
light water blasting or light sandblasting and hosing with clean water.
Graffiti - Apply a proprietary cleaner that contains an alkali, a solvent, and detergent. After
scrubbing the graffiti with a brush, leave the cleaner in place for the time indicated by the
manufacturer. Rinse thoroughly. Avoid contact with skin.

Permeable paving
Flexible paving (Unitary paving, Sandstone flagging, Decomposed granite, Stoneset,
cobblestones)
General - Paving can enhance a playspace but it can also be a liability if not maintained
properly. Loose or moving paving may need to be re-bedded, but it is more important to rectify
the cause of the movement.


From left: Improper installation of substrata, impoper haunches and liquification has caused the paving to buckle
and collapse

Ongoing Maintenance - Settlement, movement and/or subsidence of the substrate layer are a
common reason for permeable paving problems. The movement may be a result of liquefaction
of the bedding layer and jointing material by water, degrading or movement of restraining
edges or application of loads greater than the pavement was designed to carry. Whatever the
cause, it needs to be investigated and rectified before replacing or re-bedding the paving.
Unitary paving may be cleaned as can other surface forms. Many materials (e.g. leaves) will
only stain pavers if they are allowed to remain in contact with pavers for prolonged periods.
Frequent sweeping and flushing of pavers will help maintain its excellent aesthetic appeal.
When sweeping or flushing, precautions must be taken in the early life of paved surface to
ensure that jointing sand is not removed. Unless pavers have been sealed, the use of vacuum
sweepers and water jets should be avoided until joints have become naturally clogged which
normally occurs two to three months into paved surface life.


From left: A three year old deco. granite pathway that has been properly constructed and maintained, One that
hasnt.

Decomposed granite paving has a sub compacted layer that allows free drainage and a surface
layer that may be mixed with a stabilising agent if it is going to be subject to constant use (e.g.
bike tracks). Over time some of the granite may shift and a depression may be formed, if this is
allowed to continue the depression may become a tripping or bike hazard. Weekly inspections
of the surface will ensure depressions are spotted early (if they occur at all) and the displaced
gravel can then be raked back into place, were it can be wet (a watering can is perfect) and
compacted. When given a period to dry solidly the surface will be as good as new.
Additionally, pavers should be sprayed with a general-purpose herbicide periodically to
eradicate any vegetation that has rooted itself. Glyphosate (Roundup) can be used for this
purpose, however herbicides should only be mixed and applied by qualified individuals wearing
the appropriate P.P.E. and residuals should be disposed of as per manufacturers directions.
Consideration should be given as to when the spraying takes place, (preferably a period should
elapse between the spraying and the chance of children coming in contact with the plant) If any
children in care have any prior recognised allergy or immune conditions, chemical herbicides
should NOT be used. There are a number of natural herbicide controls which may be used
instead.


From left Because of its durability & permeability Stoneset is being used by a number of Councils in public spaces,
Can be molded and sculpted with the aid of aluminium edging, Can be used in conjunction with wood or
aluminium edging.

Stoneset is probably one of the toughest permeable surfaces on the market. It has a 10 year
guarantee against stones loosening, cracking, oil damage, UV degradation and aggregate colour
change. The manufacturers do caveat this guarantee with a warning that it will be affected (like
any other permeable paving) by abnormal use. They define abnormal use as heavy objects (e.g.
waste skips) being dragged across the surface, spillage of petrol, solvents, oil, grease, cement
or dirt that are left uncleaned.
Routine maintenance is simple, sweep the surface regularly with a stiff broom and hose with
clean water. Periodic application of a proprietary moss killer, in accordance with the
manufacturers guidelines, will prevent any moss or weed growth. Ingrained algal growth can
be removed and the colour of the original surface restored, by the application of a strong
bleach solution. After application the surface should be well rinsed with clean water.
Removal of individual pieces of chewing gum can be carried out by treating each piece with a
freezing spray and then scraping off the hardened gum with a wall/paint scraper. Cement or
concrete marks can be removed with careful use of dilute hydrochloric acid or a proprietary
cement remover, immediately followed by a thorough rinsing with clean water.
Cobblestones Are often used in playspaces as part of a variety of mixed surfaces in pathways
and bike tracks. Cobblestones are usually made from metamorphic crystalline rocks like granite,
limestone or even marble. Cobblestones are different from paving in that they are not all
identical in size or texture and are supplied individually or in a meshed roll (where each
individual stone is glued to the net in an equidistant position). Cobblestones are laid on a
compacted sub-base and the space between is either filled with sand or a sand concrete
mixture.
Maintenance of cobblestones is similar to all the surfaces mentioned above. Sweep regularly,
treat with herbicide when or if necessary and carry out regular visual for water pooling,
settlement, movement or subsidence.


From left: Cobblestones -highly durable, minimal maintenance

Sandpit
General Sandpits and digging patches are a constant source of misinformation and overhyped
paranoia. In the past years I have been asked about the risk of toxoplasmosis and melioidosis. I
have heard numerous complaints about how children playing in pits and patches get dirty???,
how difficult it is to place a sand pit cover on a sandpit, and my personal favourite, that the
sand found in sandpits is carcinogenic. Concerns about toxoplasmosis, and melioidosis and
silicosis are all comprehensively addressed in Appendix E.


From left: Remember to cover the pit totally, An easily attached semi-permeable cover is preferable.

Sandpits should be self draining, if yours is not it should be retrofitted to drain. Retrofitting
construction methods will vary depending on how it was originally constructed, substrata, and
stormwater access.
Semi-permeable covers can be custom made or created inexpensively from high grade UV
shade cloth and a number of old non steel belted tyres that have large bore holes drilled
through them for drainage.
Ongoing Maintenance Ideally every sand pit should have a semi-permeable cover that
completely covers it and can be fixed over the pit. Flexible connectors and attachments on the
pits perimeter should allow the cover to be firmly fixed to prevent movement by wind or entry
by animals.
Covers made out of shade cloth or similar material protects the sand and allows the sand to
breathe. Plastic or canvas tarpaulin covers are not as suitable, because mould and sludge may
develop on or under the tarpaulin. If the sandpit is not raked flat before the tarpaulin is placed
over the sandpit, water may pool in the hollows.
The sandpit should be filled to a depth of 500mm at a minimum and raked every morning
before children go outside to play, any sharps or syringes located should be collected and
placed into a sharps container. Any other offending items such as faeces should be removed
using a shovel. The best way to sanitise a sandpit is sunlight and fresh air. When this is not
possible, an allergy free sanitising solution, diluted according to the manufacturers instructions
can be used. Use a watering can to spread the solution over the sandpit. Do not add bleach to
the sand as it may cause allergic reactions in children.
The sand should be turned over monthly to aerate it and replenished when the sand level drops
100mm below the top edge of the sandpit. As a guideline, it is recommended that the sand is
replaced annually or as required. A visual inspection should also be made to locate any shifts,
cracks or loosening of the pits perimeter materials.

Digging patch


From left: Digging patches should contain 80% sand & 20% clean soil

Ongoing maintenance -The digging patch should be filled to a depth of 500mm, at a minimum,
with a mixture of 80% sand and 20% soil mixture. The patch should be raked before children
use it and any rubbish, sharps or faeces removed. The patch should be turned over monthly to
aerate it and replenished when the sand level drops 100mm below the top edge of the patch. A
visual inspection should also be made to locate any shifts, cracks or loosening of the pits
perimeter materials.

Shade sails


From left: All tensioning points and padding should be visually inspected regularly, Lichen build up is common and
should be treated before it damages the material.

Ongoing maintenance - Caring for your shade sail properly is important, so that you can
maximize its potential to provide adequate protection and shelter. A thorough visual inspection
should be made annually of all posts (and padding), connectors, eyelets and
tensioning/attachment points to see if it is still installed properly and hasn't been loosened or
damaged by strong winds or other external forces. The canopy should always be pulled taut
and firm to prevent the wind from flapping it around.
Over time, you will find that your shade sail becomes dirty and you will need to clean it.
However, it is important that you don't use harsh chemicals or agricultural chemicals on it, as
substances containing bleach, sulphur or halogens can destroy the shade sail's UV stabilizers.
This will make your shade sail wear out faster and will probably negate its warranty. In addition,
avoid using products that contain pesticide components, metal salts and metal oxides, as these
may react with the fabric, reducing its quality.
The following list of chemicals that may cause such interactions are only some examples and
not exhaustive. Such chemicals may include: pesticides, metals, metal oxides and metal salts, all
halogens and chemical compounds containing halogens or sulphur in all their oxidation states.
Care should be taken to avoid exposure to petrol, oils etc. Instead, use a mild dish washing
liquid, a soft scrubbing brush and a low-pressure water hose to gently clean your shade sail.
Using a high-pressure hose can damage the shade sail.
Your shade sail should be cleaned thoroughly about once a year. Most of the time, rainwater
will keep it clean enough, but a good annual cleaning will be needed to clear the accumulation
of dirt and dried leaves that will no doubt have built up. Also, in winter the cold and moisture
may have caused mildew and mould, which you will want to clean up with a low-pressure water
blaster.

Screening /fencing
Natureed


From left: Natureed Perfect for hiding ugly neighbouring fences and creating a more intimate nature in the
playground.

Ongoing maintenance Natureed is made of bamboo which is naturally durable due to the oils
it contains and the product Natureed is additionally treated with a non toxic preservative.
Water and dampness encourages rot and the growth of mould, which deteriorate the quality of
bamboo, while very dry air can also strip it of natural oils. All treated bamboos require upkeep
to maintain their form, colour, and durability.
To begin this process you can lightly clean the Natureed screen with a solution of mild soap and
water, use a soft cloth or sponge, wring out excess water and wipe the wood gently. Choose an
organic or natural soap rather than harsh detergent, which can damage or discolour the natural
sheen of the bamboo.
It is important to understand that the use of commercial and household cleaning solutions that
contain bleaching agents such as Sodium Hypochlorite etc should be avoided. These chemical
cleaners will damage the bamboo tissue. Additionally, using bleach to clean bamboo may
produce a film forming reaction in the outer wood fibres that causes a subsequent coating
failure.
Clean from the highest point and work down methodically. It is important to note that the use
of high-pressure water on bamboo will create damage to the fibres and water alone will not
remove fungus growth. Once the bamboo has been cleaned it must be water rinsed with hot
water. It is important that the cleaned bamboo is completely dry before any additional
maintenance is performed; allow 3 to 4 days of hot, fine drying weather.
If the bamboo has cracked, sand with a fine grit sandpaper until smooth and then rub paste wax
over the area to recondition the colour and tone of the wood. You can restore your bamboos
shine by rubbing it periodically with linseed oil or any other oil specifically recommended for
bamboo. If youd like the bamboo to maintain its colour, you can do so by applying a colourless
lacquer to provide protection against ultraviolet degradation, moisture and fungus growth.
Fencing - All childrens playspaces require secure child-proof self locking fencing to secure the
primary playspace and any divisions therein that may be required. Steel or aluminium pool
fencing (installed as per regulation and local council ordinance) meets criteria as set out in the
current Children's Services Regulations 2004 and generally meets all local Council's
Development Control Plans (confirm this with your local Council).


From left: Soil Runoff has exposed and weakened the foundations of the fence, Where will they go over the fence
and onto the road?, some areas of the playspace need fencing for safety and demarcation.

Although most fencing providers guarantee their products for between 3 and 5 years, outdoor
conditions vary, therefore weathering and constant use may cause structural and mechanical
failures. On a monthly basis visually and physically examine fencing to ensure that posts and
railing sections are secure and that no degradation has occurred to the powder or galvanised
coating that may lead to structural weakness. If a substantial portion of a fence is damaged,
demolished or removed, it must be replaced with a new section. The new section must comply
with the current regulations and local council ordinance.
Gates are usually fitted with self-closing devices that will return the door to the closed position
and operate the latching device from any position with a stationary start, without applying
manual force.
Ongoing maintenance - On a monthly basis visually and physically the hinges on the gate;
replace, tighten or adjust if required. Examine the self latching mechanism to ensure it is
functional; replace or lubricate if required. Examine the self closing device (usually a
counterweight or spring) replace, tighten, adjust or lubricate if required. If the gate is fitted
with Perspex shielding ensure that it is secure and has not cracked or broken, install or replace
if required. Additionally, trim back any vegetation or branches that a child could use to climb
over the fence, remove any play equipment that could be used for the same purpose.

Stones/Rocks/Boulders
Ongoing maintenance - Like dry creek beds and stepping stones, boulders are one of the lowest
maintenance items you will find in a playspace. Boulders should be periodically visually and
physically inspected to ensure that they have note moved from their foundations or that
weathering or use has not caused any fractures in the rock, exposing sharp edges. Educators
should also ensure that the surfaces are free from wet vegetation or algae which may present a
slipping hazard. If over time you find that the mulch around them has become displaced you
should rake the soft fall back into place with a soft plastic headed rake or arrange annually for
the soft fall to be topped up.


From left: A great place to sit, rest and watch or extend your balance skills and for social/emotional play?

Stepping stones
General - Stepping stones are usually laid on a levelled cement blob footing so that once the
cement dries they dont move and remain at the same finished height as the surrounding soft
fall mulch. If they have been laid on a slab or into artificial turf they are usually fastened with a
commercial grade epoxy.
Ongoing maintenance - Periodically visually and physically inspect each stone to ensure it has
not moved from its foundation, has not cracked, chipped or become coated with algae or wet
vegetable matter. Over time you may find that the stones will settle and sink due to moisture
and foot traffic or the mulch around them becomes displaced due to constant use. To avoid
tripping hazards you should rake the mulch back into place with a soft plastic headed rake.
Depending on the method the stones were fixed you may wish to lift the stone, chip away any
adhesive and refix it. If you do not feel comfortable or confident to do this you may wish to
engage a professional to complete the maintenance.


From left: Cut hardwood sleepers used as stepping stones, Concrete stepping stones, Concrete SS moulded as
hardwood sleepers

Concrete sleepers and posts
General Concrete sleepers and posts (i.e. sleepers and posts that are made from a blend of
sand, gravel and cement, reinforced with steel concrete and moulded in the form of a
hardwood railway sleeper) are a great solution to the problems of timber deterioration in high
moisture areas or in areas where the timber may be subject to insect infestation. The sleepers
and posts can be utilised as retaining walls, stepping stones, raised garden beds, edging,
decking, paths and planter boxes.
Ongoing maintenance Virtually none, maintain visual inspections to ensure that the surface
has not been scraped or chipped exposing the inner reinforcement. If any is observed patch the
area with a cement or poly filler, sand and paint.


From left: Soil profile Horizons O- A, Manutec pH testing kit, Soil pH testing kits in the UK, Soil pH testing kits in the
UK, the affect of the incorrect soil pH level- failure to thrive, Testing pH is childs play.

Teepees


From left: Soil profile Horizons O- A, Manutec pH testing kit, Soil pH testing kits in the UK, Soil pH testing kits in the
UK, the affect of the incorrect soil pH level- failure to thrive, Testing pH is childs play.

Ongoing maintenance - For teepees made using bamboo poles see information about the
maintenance of Natureed. For teepees constructed using H4 treated ACQ timber follow the
maintenance procedures outlined for wooden decking.
Additionally, posts should be checked periodically to ensure footings have not shifted and the
apex is secure. If the steel fastening flanges used to secure the apex of the teepees have worn
through the hessian they were originally bound with, remove the hessian and rebind in a
direction that flattens any protruding metal bits of the flange. Check the health and direction of
climbers planted near the base of the poles, loosely tied gardeners string can be used to train
the twinners up the length of the pole.

Slides


From left: Soil profile Horizons O- A, Manutec pH testing kit, Soil pH testing kits in the UK, Soil pH testing kits in the
UK, the affect of the incorrect soil pH level- failure to thrive, Testing pH is childs play. An unmaintained slide can
lose its surfacing exposing the fibreglass beneath - SS slides need to be checked for structural integrity and rust

Polyethylene slides - are usually made with UV stabilised high density polyethylene, however
after extended UV exposure some colour fading may occur and the material may become
brittle. This will vary depending on the location and orientation of the slide, but after a period
of 10 years all panels should be regularly checked for signs of perishing and replaced as
required.
Fibre glass slides Most Fibre glass slides are made by coating a fibreglass shell with a gel,
acrylic or plastic coating to provide the smooth slippery play surface. The fibre glass is similar to
new car in terms of their exposure to the elements and how they weather. They do not need to
be repainted or caulked, but they do need to be washed, waxed, and repaired routinely in order
to protect their original surface. The slide should be inspected quarterly and annually for cracks,
chips, or bubbles in the sliding surface as well as any rough patches at joints or cracks.
Wash the slide surface monthly or more frequently, if needed. Clean with non-abrasive cleaners
or soap and water to remove chemical build up and oxidation of the surfaces. Avoid using any
harsh chemicals. You can use an automotive polish on the board to protect it and maintain a
smooth sliding surface. Remove slight scratches and abrasions with polishing products designed
for fibre glass, acrylic and plastic. Buff the areas with a soft cloth after applying the polish.
Never use abrasive pads.
The slide is usually attached to a wooden, steel or concrete foundation. Inspect the foundation,
frame and connections quarterly and annually. Check the anchor bolts, deck mounts, handrails
and step bolts at least once each month. The slide should always be firmly anchored to the
foundation according the manufacturer's instructions. Tighten loose fittings and replace any
hardware that is corroded or rusted. Use stainless steel replacement nuts, bolts and washers to
avoid this problem in the future.
Make sure the deck anchor covers are in place and bolts don't stick up to stub toes or cut feet.
Screw stainless steel or plastic bolt caps over any protruding bolts that might create catching
hazards.
Stainless Steel Slides - ensure all the clamp rings are secure and that all the tube sections butt
tightly together. There should be no gap between sections. Ensure the slide is sitting securely
on its supports, with no gaps larger than the permissible 8mm. Ensure that all bolts are securely
fixed and that there are no loose connections. You also need to regularly visually inspect the
slides for any rough areas, areas of wear and tear and rust.

Swings


From left: Soil profile Horizons O- A, Manutec pH testing kit, Soil pH testing kits in the UK, Soil pH testing kits in the
UK, the affect of the incorrect soil pH level- failure to thrive, Testing pH is childs play.

General -Whatever style or shape your swing may be the two most important maintenance
safety factors are constant inspection and soft fall.
Soft fall needs to be equipment specific (i.e. meets the criteria to provide the maximum
cushioning of a child falling from the swing and extends at least 1.9m from the furtherest
extension point of the swing and free of all obstacles such as fences, trees, shrubs and any
other objects on which a child can land.
Ongoing maintenance - Educators should make a daily visual inspection of swing equipment,
seat, connectors, chain or rope , pivot points and frame to ensure there is no visible signs of
deterioration such as cracked structural parts, rust or corrosion, peeling paint, loose fittings and
connections, debris in the play area, missing parts and exposed equipment supports.
On a quarterly/annual basis the swings should be inspected to ensure all nuts and bolts are
secure and tightened as required, that all metallic moving parts are appropriately lubricated
with manufacturer specified product and that swing seats and chains show no evidence of
deterioration.
Severe rusting or excessive wear, especially near the top swing hanger or at the seat connection
are evidence of chain deterioration. Cracks in the protective plastic sleeve or seat itself are also
signs of deterioration. If any of these conditions exist, replace swing seat immediately. If any
parts of your swing are timber you should ensure there is no cracking, warping or splinters.
Parts showing signs of any deterioration should be treated or removed immediately.

Scramble Nets and Rope climbers
Ongoing maintenance - It is recommended that you inspect the entire net, climbing ropes,
perimeter rope and fastenings for cleanliness, tension, damage and any other obvious issues on
a daily, quarterly and annual basis.


From left: In the first photo the ropes are worn & unsecure, the frame has rotted, the soft fall is full of sand and
rock hard, Ensure all joining components are periodically checked and secure whether they be metal or knots.

On a daily basis examine the net/ropes for grit or contaminants if they are present, wash the
net/ropes with clean water. Inspect the perimeter rope for eye splice condition (strands not
pulling through) any abrasion and wear partially inside rope core and around inside of the eye
loop. Replace the perimeter rope if the rope has been estimated to be reduced in strength by
greater than 10%. Check that ropes and attachments are free from decay. Ropes especially are
prone to wear and tear and will start to decay after one year.
Inspect the cargo net mesh rope for security and condition of splices to the perimeter rope
firmness and wear/ abrasion at the joint knots. Small cuts in the outer braided layer can be re-
sealed by melting the frayed ends with a small flame. If done immediately it will stop the plastic
tendrils from further unbraiding. With small amounts of wear the life of the net can be
extended with the use of suitable external grade heavy duty tape. This must be securely applied
to prevent the introduction of entrapment areas. Repair damaged areas by replacement of
that section if it has been estimated that the mean mesh rope has been reduced in strength by
more than 45%. Check all fasteners quarterly and tighten as required. All moveable parts must
be checked for wear and tear. Lubricate or replace when necessary.
Check the timber does not have any splinters or has been damaged. Look to see if there are any
major cracks. Spits and cracks are common in due to the natural expansion and contraction of
the wood however, still check for any usually large cracks and if you are unsure about the safety
of the climbing frame do not let anyone use it until the timber is repaired or replaced. Wooden
steps and ramps should be periodically cleaned to prevent the build-up of algae or other
growths which could be slippery. It is recommended that the hardwood items should be treated
annually (see the procedure outlined in the deck maintenance section)
On a quarterly and annual basis check nets/ropes and their supporting structures for: sharp
edges, condition of the lumbers (splinter), beetling screws, bolts or the like, the condition of the
ground surrounding the nets, any exposed foundations, the layer thickness of the surrounding
shock absorbing surface, missing parts, excessive wear (especially movable parts), construction
stability, signs of vandalism or weathering that all parts are secure and that there is no
excessive movement between them that may lead to finger traps.
Based on these inspections the following maintenance works may be required: cleaning,
changing or refilling of the shock absorbing surfaces, retightening of loose attachments,
lubrication of moving parts, replacement of attachments, replacement of defective or worn out
parts, repainting or treatments of wooden surfaces.

Garden arbours/arches


From left: Soil profile Horizons O- A, Manutec pH testing kit, Soil pH testing kits in the UK, Soil pH testing kits in the
UK, the affect of the incorrect soil pH level- failure to thrive, Testing pH is childs play.

Ongoing maintenance - Garden Arbours and arches are usually set into the ground on either
concrete slab or blob footings. A basic daily visual inspection entails ensuring that the footings
are secure and havent be affected or eroded by shifts in the surrounding material, erosion
caused by water inundation or small bodies attempting to swing or climb on the arbour arch.
Your inspection should also ensure that the fastening devices have not risen and present a
tripping hazard.

Water features & pumps
General - If you have a water/channel/bowl or rill that is fed by a hand-operated water pump
there are a number of periodic maintenance tasks that need to be carried out to ensure that
the pump remains in working order and the water/ channel/bowl or rill remains clean.
Hand pumps/Rotary pumps


From left: Rotary pump has become blocked with sand that has entered through spaces in the lid, Teach children
how to use hand pumps to avoid injury and breakage.

Ongoing maintenance - Whilst all pumps that are installed come with a 2-5 year warranty they
may still be prone to breakage especially if the pump is used incorrectly. Supervision and
periodic maintenance are the keys to extending the life of your pump.
On first use instruct the children on how to use the pump and ensure they are supervised
whilst using it, many pumps have required extensive servicing after children have placed
sand/debris into the outlets causing breakages in seals and valves. Ensure that all screws and
connecting bolts on the pump are tight and that the bearings and steel on steel contact points
are lubricated and, if worn, replaced. Make certain that any broken or worn parts or supports
are promptly re-fastened or replaced. (A professional maybe required to disassemble the
components).
If any unusual noise is during the pumps use, try to ascertain the reason for the same and take
corrective actions. Check if the pump stand is shaky during operation. If the stand is fastenings
have become loose take corrective measures to repair or replace them. (A professional maybe
required to for this level of maintenance). If the pump or its reservoir is attached/filled from the
mains or a tank, ensure there is a nearby cut off switch that cannot be accessed by children.
Ensure the reservoir drains after each use.

Water/channel/bowl /rill


From left: Clean your water/channel/bowl /rill every 1-3 months, even more frequently if there is surrounding
vegetation or leaves/ vegetation are left on the feature after rain.

Ongoing maintenance - Clean your water/channel/bowl /rill every 1-3 months, even more
frequently if there is surrounding vegetation or leaves/ vegetation are left on the feature after
rain. As well as providing a possible slipping hazard the chemicals (e.g. tannins) leached from
the vegetation can stain. Tannin stains from leaves and flowers can be treated with a mixture
of chlorine and detergent. The tannin stains, however, will generally weather away over several
weeks without any cleaning.
An environment of water, light, and air invites the growth of algae therefore it is essential that
you clean your water/channel/bowl /rill once every 1-3 months. Some owners use dilutions of
lemon juice, vinegar or even alcohol based mouthwash to kill algae growth. Dish soap can be an
inexpensive way to clean, but it must be rinsed very thoroughly. Take time to use a brush to
clean rough surfaces and to get into all crevices on the feature while cleaning. White vinegar is
a great way to clean algae and is much safer for your fountain than bleach. Soaking rocks and
other fountain components in vinegar before washing can help to make algae removal easier.

Rainwater tanks
General - Industrial emissions and pollution in highly populated areas can reduce the quality of
water harvested by your water tank, these are factors you have minimal influence over. Regular
maintenance to your water tank and the catchment area is an important process you can
undertake to ensure the quality of the water you harvest is not compromised. Implementing a
maintenance program is the most effective method to ensure it is carried out regularly and
effectively.
Ongoing maintenance - In general, house and shed roofs are used as catchment areas.
Rainwater can be collected from most types of roofs, providing they have not been painted
with lead-based paints or coated with bitumen- based material.


From left: Overflow pipes should not dump back into the playground, Overflow & discharge pipes should not be
allowed to discharge into roof catchment areas, Regular inspections ensure the structural integrity of tank and its
stand.

Some types of new tiles and freshly applied acrylic paints may affect the colour or taste of
rainwater and the first few run-offs may need to be discarded. As a precaution, chemically
treated timbers and lead flashing should not be used in roof catchments. Also, if possible,
rainwater should not be collected from parts of roofs incorporating flues from wood burners.
Overflows or discharge pipes from roof mounted appliances such as evaporative air
conditioners or hot water systems should not be allowed to discharge onto the roof catchment
area or gutters.
First-flush devices can be used to prevent the first rains from flowing into the tank after a dry
period. This will reduce the amount of dust, bird droppings, leaves and debris that have
accumulated on the roof from being washed into the tank. The use of these devices is
recommended. Alternatively the tank inlet could be disconnected so that the first run-off of
rain after a dry spell is not collected.
Roof catchments should be kept clean and clear of leaves and debris. Overhanging branches
should be removed. Gutters should be regularly inspected and cleaned if necessary. The use of
screens/ guards should be considered and all screens should be cleaned regularly. Inspect your
tank structurally ensuring the lid is firmly closed, repairing any holes or gaps. Check for
evidence of access by animals, birds or insects. If there is evidence of algal growth, repair and
ensure no light access. Check piping to ensure they are firmly fastened and draining correctly.
Water ponding in gutters must be prevented as it can provide breeding sites for mosquitoes
and could lead to eggs being washed into tanks. Tanks should not be allowed to become
breeding sites for mosquitoes. If mosquitoes are detected in a tank, the entry point should be
located and closed. For most types of tanks mosquito breeding can be stopped by adding a
teaspoon (5 ml) of domestic kerosene. However, kerosene should not be used in plastic tanks.
Alternatively you may wish to contact the health section of your local council for advice on
treatments.
Tanks should be examined for accumulation of sludge at least every 2-3 years. If sludge is
covering the bottom of the tank it should be removed by siphon or by completely emptying and
rinsing the tank. Professional tank cleaners are available in some areas. Excessive sludge is a
sign of inadequate maintenance of the catchment area (roof and gutters).
Generally disinfection of tank water should not be necessary. However, if it is suspected that
water in the tank is contaminated, it can be disinfected using 40 ml of liquid sodium
hypochlorite (12.5% available chlorine) or 7 grams of granular calcium hypochlorite per 1000
litres of water. A chlorine taste and odour may persist for a few days but this does not make the
water unsafe for drinking. Stabilised chlorine should not be used.
Every quarter you should - clean and check the operation of first flush devices on your pump,
remove the cover of the pump, clean leaf litter and dust, inspect gutters as they are cleaned, if
large amounts of debris are present, increase the regularity of your cleaning program, clean
screens and inlet points.
Biannually you should - Clear leaf litter and other debris from your roof, check for overhanging
branches to be pruned. Check if animals, birds or insects have accessed the tank, especially in
hot weather, if they have close access points. Check for mosquito larvae, if it is present contact
the health section of your local council for advice on treatments. Check the inside of your tank
for evidence of algal growth, if there is close points of light entry. Check the tank to see if any
general maintenance needs to be undertaken, any defects or repairs to be made to the tank. If
your tank has a pump clean pump filters and strainers, if the pump is loose secure it, clean or
replace water filters.
Annually - If your tank has disinfection systems, replace UV lamps. If you have a below ground
tank with mains back-up get your local plumber to check your back flow prevention valves.
Check the structure of your tank for any degradation. Check that surface water does not enter
your tank during storm events. Arrange for the removal of any accumulated sediment located
in your tank.

Creek beds


From left: Creek beds are one of the lowest maintenance components of a playspace, that is, if the essential
maintenance is performed.

General - Creek beds are one of the lowest maintenance components of a playspace, that is, if
the essential maintenance is performed. Most beds consist of a series of cambered layers;
compacted blue metal, geo-textile material, uncompacted blue metal, sand, pebbles greater
than 50mm and grasses. If they are constructed on a concreted slab that is waterproofed there
is usually a connection at the lowest point of the bed to a stormwater drain. The intent of the
manner of construction is to ensure that whilst the bed temporarily holds water for children to
play in it drains within a short period of the water being added or if rainwater is captured.
Ongoing maintenance - Maintenance consists of a daily visual inspection to ensure that any
leaves or debris in the bed are removed and are not causing pooling or retention of water,
which may pose a safety hazard or stagnate and become a focal point for mosquito breeding.

Seats
Recycled plastic seats
General Most manufacturers of recycled-plastic seats generally claimed a life expectancy of
40+ years plus for their products.


From left: Recycled plastic seat have a life expectancy of 40+ years.

Ongoing maintenance - Maintenance is normally not required, other than visual inspection for
damage and general cleaning. Where damage has occurred to products such as seats and
benches, the damaged parts can be replaced easily and cheaply. Painted surfaces are subject to
the same cleaning and repainting requirements as any other material. Graffiti may be removed
by using commercially available graffiti removing strippers, provided that action is taken
promptly.

Wooden seats, Benches & Storage boxes


From left: Sandpit storage bench, Boardwalks and potting benches, Storage bench.

Ongoing maintenance - Follow the same maintenance procedures outlined for maintenance of
wooden decking.

Irrigation System Maintenance
General - As discussed in the PLANTS and TURF sections both types of vegetation require a
consistent and accurate supply of water on a constant basis to allow them to establish a
supportive and functional root system. After their establishment period they will require
regular watering to assist with transpiration and combat evaporation. Unless you can absolutely
guarantee that you, staff or children are prepared to water vegetation on a daily basis then an
automated irrigation system is an essential investment. If set up correctly the system will be
able to deliver the exact amount of water to exactly the right spot at exactly the right time,
reduce pollution from run-off and over-irrigation, turn itself off if rain occurs during set
watering periods, conserve water and minimise weeding.
Ongoing maintenance - A poorly maintained irrigation system means that much of the water
that is used never reaches its intended source and is lost to runoff, evaporation and deep
watering below the root zone. At a minimum, a check of the irrigation system should be
performed twice a year. Irrigation system maintenance is necessary to ensure the most efficient
use of the water that is being applied. These maintenance recommendations will help you
evaluate your irrigation system before using it each spring and also throughout the growing
season.
Irrigation Controller - Irrigation controllers in a childrens playspace, whether they are mains or
battery powered, should be removed from the direct access of children or placed in a lockable
receptacle that also encloses the battery compartment or mains connection.
Controllers should be checked at the beginning of each growing season before running the
sprinklers for the first time. First, find the manual for the controller. If the manual has been lost
or misplaced, check the manufacturers web site for downloadable versions or information on
how to order one. Becoming familiar with the irrigation controllers manual will make spring
start-up quick and easy. Open the controllers cabinet and clean out any cobwebs, dirt, or
debris. This is also a good time to change the battery and check the wiring for any loose
connections. Check all wire connections, including the rain sensor connection if one is attached.
If a rain sensor is not attached to the controller, consider adding one to your irrigation system.
A rain sensor is inexpensive, simple to install, and will automatically shut off the irrigation
system when a significant amount of rain falls.
Next, check the time and day showing on the controller and correct them if necessary. This is
also the time to set up an irrigation schedule. If the landscape has slopes, sandy, or clay soils,
split the irrigation runtime into two or more cycles to avoid runoff or ponding. Also, remember
that in the spring and Autumn less water is needed to keep plants healthy than in the heat of
the summer.


From left: Receptacle for an irrigation controller, two lockable irrigationcontrollers.

Sprinkler System - Once the irrigation schedule is programmed, inspect the sprinkler system by
checking the valves, sprinkler heads, and emitters. Before running the system, remove the last
sprinkler head in each line and let the water run for a few minutes to flush out any dirt and
debris. Replace the sprinkler head and turn the system on, running one valve at a time. Observe
the spray patterns and position of the sprinklers for obvious problems such as clogged or
misaligned heads. Some sprinkler heads may be tilted, surrounded by grass, or even buried. If
not positioned properly, these sprinkler heads will be unable to apply water efficiently.
Some sprinklers also have built-in filter screens that should be cleaned and replaced if
necessary. Watch for leaks and misting from sprinkler heads that may indicate high water
pressure problems. High pressure problems may be corrected by plumbing a pressure regulator
into the sprinkler system. Pressure-regulating sprinkler heads are also available. Make the
necessary adjustments and repairs to the system in order to apply the water as evenly as
possible. The flow control on the valves may also be adjusted to fine-tune the system. When
this is done, turn the irrigation system on manually to make sure it is operating as programmed.

From left: Check for breaks in the irrigation line, broken heads, ensure sprinkler heads are not tilted, over grown
with grass, or buried.

Drip System -As with sprinkler systems, flush the drip system before running it by removing the
emitters and letting water run through the tubing for a few minutes to flush out any dirt and
debris. Replace emitters and run the system, one valve at a time, to check for problems.


From left: Displaced drip lines waste water and are trip hazards.

Clogged emitters should be replaced. If the system does not have a water filter, one should be
installed. Check the placement of emitters. Emitters need to be at the edge of the root-ball on
new plantings and moved to the drip line (edge of foliage) of established plants. Check for
emitters that have popped off tubing because of high pressure, and install a pressure regulator
if needed. Check to see that all emitters are in place. Missing and broken emitters need to be
replaced to keep your system running efficiently. Look for pinched or broken tubing and
straighten or replace it. Also make sure that all tubing is attached to the appropriate emitters
and that connections are secure. Make the necessary adjustments and repairs to the system.
When this is done, turn the irrigation system on manually to make sure it is operating as
programmed.
Winterization - Basic winterization of a sprinkler system is quite simple. The water supply
should be turned off at the main valve and the irrigation controller should be set to the rain
or off setting. Each valve should be turned on to release pressure in the pipes and water
should be drained from the system. Your system may have drain valves that can be opened for
drainage, or you may have to blow out the system using air.

Edible gardens


From left: Raised galvanised steel beds, prefabricated concrete sleepers, a raised timber bed using ACQ timber.

General Raised edible garden beds can usually be constructed quickly, situated in the most
ideal spot for plantings to thrive, are child height and are essential in centres that are on
concrete slabs. Beds are usually constructed with timber, pre-moulded corrugated steel or pre-
moulded concrete sleeper kits. Even though contemporary group thought is that CCA cannot
be used in the construction of edible garden beds current studies by a number of national and
international research establishments indicate the contrary, as long as certain practices are
followed. If youre still not convinced after reading Appendix F, dont use it, use ACQ, LOSP or
Tanalith E instead.
Ongoing maintenance - Ensure that the foundations of the bed have not shifted. If the bed is
constructed of timber make certain that all sleepers are free from damage from moisture or
insect infestation and have not cracked or warped. Visually inspect the bed to make sure all
nails, bolts or screws used in construction are flush with the surface of the timber or
countersunk. If the bed is constructed from pre moulded corrugated steel determine whether
all fasteners are tight and if not retighten or replace. In some beds the plastic seal that clips
over the sharp upper steel edge sometimes splits or slips. Ensure that it is still secure around
the perimeter, if not refit or replace.

Garden and edible garden mulch covering


From left: The right mulch serves multiple purposes, Without a defined garden edge and level beds mulch may be
moved by the wind and rain, Nurturing mulches improve soil quality and fertility.

Wood chip, sugar cane, tea tree, lucerne and pea straw mulch
General As previously mentioned in the Plants section, mulch is an essential component in
naturalistic environments. Beyond serving an aesthetic function it stops soil from being
blown/washed away, helps lessen soil borne fungal diseases reaching plants, provides border
delineation, weed suppression, stabilises soil temperature, ensures moisture retention and as it
breaks down it nurtures the soil.
Ongoing maintenance - Apply mulch twice a year, preferably in autumn and spring. Different
mulches are used for differing purposes and in different situations. Woodchips are ideal for use
on garden beds, however may blow away if the chips are too small and may wash away if
placed on a sloping bed where there is not adequate drainage or areas that are prone to
standing water or heavy surface runoff during heavy rainfall. In high wind areas it is more
appropriate to use what landscape suppliers call nuggets. If using larger chips you will need a
deeper layer (more than 5 centimetres). Fines or leaf type mulches are more prone to
compaction, so dont put them on as thickly.
It is a common practice to add mulching materials above bed level in garden beds. Without a
defined edge, the mulch will spread from the bed onto lawns or pathways creating hazards. On
a daily basis check that the any garden edging has not come loose from its anchoring points. If it
has, exclude children from the area until it can be refastened. Mulch can be easily raked back
into position with a light plastic rake. You may wish to purchase child sized gardening utensils
so that they can help you. Try to avoid using blowers to clear lawns and pathways, unless you
are familiar and competent in their use, otherwise you will end up with a greater mess than you
started with.
Nurturing mulches such as sugar cane mulch, tea tree mulch, lucerne and pea straw contain a
variety of products usually derived from plants. Nurturing mulches decompose in the landscape
at different rates depending on the material and climate. Those that decompose faster must be
replenished more often. Because the decomposition process improves soil quality and fertility,
it is more beneficial to use them in edible gardens, despite the added maintenance.
Before reapplying mulch to a garden bed, remove all weeds either by hand or herbicide, this is
also the best time to add a fertiliser or compost. Always apply mulch over moist soil and wet
the laid mulch to settle it in. Avoid placing mulch in contact with plant stems, where it can
encourage disease. Fine mulch needs to be replenished more frequently and should be raked
every two months to avoid compaction. As organic mulch decomposes, it can draw nitrogen
from the soil. Watch your plants for signs of nitrogen deciency (usually some yellowing of the
lower leaves), and use a nitrogen-rich fertiliser if needed.

Appendix A Monthly/Annual Playspace Health, Safety & Maintenance Inspection Checklist
Download a printable form here
(Note: downloadable forms have spaces to date and document, they have been removed here
at Smashwords request)
Instructions: The entire playspace should be checked by a staff member (or suitably qualified
individual who has an understanding of the playspace and maintenance required) and their
observations recorded on the attached report form.
Have all previously reported problems been rectified? (Yes/No) If NO what
maintenance/repairs need to be carried out and when are they to occur?

Have accident /incidents records been reviewed to identify problems? (Yes/No)
If So, what maintenance/repairs need to be carried out and when are they to occur?

General Assessment of playspace
Is the site clean and secure? (Yes/No)
Is the playspace clear of litter and dangerous objects? (Yes/No)
Is access to the site in good condition and clear of obstruction? (Yes/No)

Occupational Health and Safety and Personal Protection Equipment (PPE)
If gardening and or maintenance is to be performed by staff and children do you have the
appropriate tools (including childrens tools, gloves, and masks)? (Yes/No)
Have staff/children been instructed in the correct and safe use of tools materials? (Yes/No)

Turf
Is the turf cleaned of rubbish and debris regularly? (Yes/No)
Has the turf established itself? (Yes/No)
Has the turf been watered regularly? (Yes/No)
Is there adequate drainage (e.g. no pooling of water in heavy rain)? (Yes/No)
Has the surface beneath the turf become compressed and require decompaction? (Yes/No)
Has the turf developed bald spots, does it require patching, fertilising or top dressing? (Yes/No)
Is the grass well maintained does it need mowing? (Yes/No)
Are weeds removed or is the turf sprayed before weeds can establish themselves? (Yes/No)
Does the turf show any sign of pests that may require the use of a pesticide spray? (Yes/No)
Items requiring maintenance:
1.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:

Artificial turf
Is the surface cleaned of rubbish and debris regularly? (Yes/No)
Is the surface secure, free from rips, tears or split seams? (Yes/No)
Has the sub base beneath the surface settled requiring infilling? (Yes/No)
Is the surface turf stained with any contaminants that require cleaning or patching? (Yes/No)
Items requiring maintenance:
1
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:

Plants
Are any of the plants or trees showing signs of disease, distress or failure to thrive? (Yes/No)
Do any of the plants or trees require spraying with pesticides/fungicides? (Yes/No)
Are any of the plants or trees dead, requiring removal/replacement? (Yes/No)
Do any of the plants or trees require mulching/weeding? (Yes/No)
Do any of the trees that are staked require adjustments to the stakes or bindings? (Yes/No)
Are all the plants trees receiving adequate water/fertiliser? (Yes/No)
Are the trees free from potential falling deadwood, pointed or broken branches? (Yes/No)
Are all trellis and garden string lines secure? (Yes/No)
Items requiring maintenance:
1.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:

Timber
Are all timber playspace components free from damage from sunlight, moisture and insect
infestation? (Yes/No)
Are all nails and screws in timber playspace components flush with the surface or countersunk?
(Yes/No)
Are all bolts in timber playspace components in place and secure? (Yes/No)
Are all joints and connections in timber playspace components firm (not loose)? (Yes/No)
Are chains and ropes in timber playspace components secure and in good condition? (Yes/No)
Are all components in timber playspace components in place, (none missing)? (Yes/No)
Are all timber playspace components free of cracks and splinters? (Yes/No)
Are all timber playspace components free of warping or twisting? (Yes/No)
Are the access ramps and entrances for timber playspace components free of slipping and
tripping hazards? (Yes/No)
Are all rails around decks above 500mm secure? (Yes/No)
Are all rails coming down from egress points of all decks above 750mm secure? (Yes/No)
Are the vertical fences around all decks and landings above 1200mm secure? (Yes/No)
Is all timber garden edging secure and not posing a tripping hazard? (Yes/No)
Items requiring maintenance:
1.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:
Blackboards/Chalkboards
Are all timber components of the blackboard/chalkboard free from damage from sunlight or
moisture? (Yes/No)
Are all nails and screws in the blackboard/chalkboard timber playspace flush with the surface or
countersunk? (Yes/No)
Are all bolts in the blackboard/chalkboard surround in place and secure? (Yes/No)
Are all timber components of the blackboard/chalkboard free of cracks and splinters? (Yes/No)
Are all timber components of the blackboard/chalkboard free of warping or twisting? (Yes/No)
Does the blackboard/chalkboard surface require repainting? (Yes/No)
Items requiring maintenance:
1.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:

Surfaces
Are all structures above 500mm in height surrounded with an approved soft fall surface
extending 1.9 metres in circumference? (Yes/No)
Have any hard surfaces/items (e.g. concrete, pavers, gravel) been moved within this zone since
it was constructed? (Yes/No)
Are loose fill areas regularly inspected for debris and hazards (e.g. rocks, toys, glass bottles and
syringes), raked to ensure decompaction, topped up or refilled when required? (Yes/No)
Is the loose fill surface material checked weekly to ensure a depth of at least 300mm? (Yes/No)
Is there adequate drainage (e.g. no pooling or water/shifting of surfaces in heavy rain)?
(Yes/No)
Is their weekly checking to ensure that loose fill surface material that may shift under platforms
and other structures is removed and spread to main areas of impact? (Yes/No)
Are unitary surfaces (wet pour/artificial grass) clean and intact, free from subsidence or
damage to its composition/joints that may require patching or repair? (Yes/No)
Are all edging materials for wet pour/artificial grass free of splinters, exposed nails and bolts?
(Yes/No)
Are all concrete areas free of cracking, crumbling composition/edges, water pooling, loose
expansion joints, exposed reinforcing? (Yes/No)
If the concrete has been treated with an acrylic surfacing is there any evidence of degradation
or uneven wear? (Yes/No)
Items requiring maintenance:
1.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:

Permeable paving
Has the surface been the subject of vehicular traffic that has caused damage to the surface?
(Yes/No)
Are all paved surfaces in good order, no shifted, tilted or sunken pavers/cobblestones that may
present a tripping hazard, no broken or degraded edging that may lead to further shifting? Is
there adequate drainage (e.g. no pooling of water in heavy rain)? (Yes/No)
Are paved/cobbled areas and flagging raked to remove leaves and vegetation that may pose a
slipping hazard Have any weeds (including roots) growing in paved/cobbled areas been
removed or sprayed? (Yes/No)
Is there any movement or rocking in paved/cobbled areas or sandstone flagging? (Yes/No)
Have any depressions formed in the decomposed granite that may pose hazards to pedestrians
or equipment? (Yes/No)
Items requiring maintenance:
1.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:

Sandpit
Has the sandpit been fitted with a strong permeable UV resistant cover that can be secured on
a daily basis against removal by wind or entry by animals? (Yes/No)
Is there adequate drainage in the sandpit (e.g. no pooling of water in heavy rain)? (Yes/No)
Is the sand raked on a daily/weekly basis to remove foreign matter that may cause injury or
illness? (Yes/No)
Is the sandpit regularly checked and appropriately treated for animal fouling? (Yes/No)
Has the sandpit been turned over monthly to aerate it? (Yes/No)
Has the depth of the sand been maintained to a minimum of 500mm? (Yes/No)
Is the sand replaced or replenished when necessary? (Yes/No)
Is the boundary of the pit free of splinters, nails or loose border material? (Yes/No)
Items requiring maintenance:
1.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:

Digging patch
Is there adequate drainage in the digging patch (e.g. no pooling of water in heavy rain)?
(Yes/No)
Is the soil/sand raked on a daily/weekly basis to remove foreign matter that may cause injury or
illness? (Yes/No)
Has the digging patch been turned over monthly to aerate it? (Yes/No)
Has the depth of the soil/sand been maintained to a minimum of 500mm? (Yes/No)
Is the soil/sand replaced or replenished when necessary? (Yes/No)
Are the boulders in the boundary of the pit secure in their bedding material free from any
movement or rocking? (Yes/No)
Items requiring maintenance:
1.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:

Shade sails
Are all posts, connectors, eyelets and tensioning attachment/points secure and in good order?
(Yes/No)
Is the canopy securely connected and are all cables taunt? Are there any signs of tearing at the
seams or connection points? Is the canopy free of any vegetation, algae or moss build-up?
(Yes/No)
Items requiring maintenance:
1.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:

Screening /fencing
Does screening display any damage from sunlight, moisture and insect infestation? (Yes/No)
Have all cracks or splits to screening material been filled and sanded? (Yes/No)
Does the screen require rejuvenation with oil or lacquer? (Yes/No)
Are the post and railing sections secure and free from corrosion? (Yes/No)
Have any damaged sections of fencing been removed (and replaced with a new section)?
(Yes/No)
Does the new section comply with the current regulations and local council ordinance?
(Yes/No)
Are the gate hinges, latching and self closing mechanisms functional and in good order?
(Yes/No)
Is the Perspex shielding around the latch cracked or broken? (Yes/No)
Is there vegetation, branches, or play equipment placed or stored against fences/gates that
could be used by a child to climb over the fence ? (Yes/No)
Items requiring maintenance:
1.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:

Stones/Rocks/Boulders
Are stones/rocks/boulders secure in their bedding material free from any movement or
rocking? (Yes/No)
Are stones/rocks/boulders free from fractures splits or sharp edges? (Yes/No)
Are stones/rocks/boulders regularly cleaned to remove leaves and vegetation that may pose a
slipping hazard? (Yes/No)
Items requiring maintenance:
1.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:

Stepping stones
Are stepping stones secure in their bedding material free from any movement, rocking or
subsidence? Are stepping stones free from fractures splits or sharp edges? (Yes/No)
Are they regularly cleaned to removed leaves and vegetation that may pose a slipping hazard?
(Yes/No)
Is there adequate drainage around the stepping stones to avoid liquefaction of the bedding
layer? (Yes/No)
Is there weekly checking to ensure that loose fill surface material around the stepping stones
has not shifted creating tripping hazards? (Yes/No)
Items requiring maintenance:
1.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:

Concrete sleepers
Are the concrete sleepers secure in their bedding materials, free from any movement or
rocking? (Yes/No)
Are the concrete sleepers free from fractures splits or sharp edges? (Yes/No)
Is there adequate drainage (e.g. no pooling of water) above retaining walls or in raised garden
beds? (Yes/No)
Are all fasteners in place and secure? (Yes/No)
Items requiring maintenance:
1.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:

Teepees
Do the bamboo/timber supports display any signs of damage from sunlight, moisture and insect
infestation? (Yes/No)
Have any cracks or splits to the bamboo/timber supports been filled and sanded? (Yes/No)
Do the bamboo/timber supports require rejuvenation with oil or lacquer? (Yes/No)
Are all the bamboo/timber supports secure in their foundations? (Yes/No)
Is the apex secure or in need of rebinding to cover the metal flanges? (Yes/No)
Items requiring maintenance:
1.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:

Slides
Are all slide components free from damage from sunlight, moisture and insect infestation?
(Yes/No)
Are all nails, screws and bolts in the slides frame/platform/surface secure and/or flush with the
surface or countersunk? (Yes/No)
Are all joints and connections in all slide components firm (not loose)? (Yes/No)
Are all slide components free of perishing, cracks or splinters and warping or twisting? (Yes/No)
Are the joints and fastenings on parts such that there are no catch points? (Yes/No)
Are all access ramps, steps or entrances to the slide in good order and free of slipping and
tripping hazards? Is the sliding surface clear of obstructions? (Yes/No)
Is the gel-coat surface of any fibreglass slides intact and free from glass fibre protrusions?
(Yes/No)
Items requiring maintenance:
1.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:
Swings
Is there a certified fall zone extending 1.9 metres from the furtherest extension point of the
swing (Yes/No)
Is the material within the fall zone regularly inspected for debris and hazards? (e.g. rocks, toys,
glass bottles and syringes), Is it raked to ensure decompaction, topped up or refilled when
required? (Yes/No)
If the material within the fall zone is a loose fill surface material (e.g. certified soft fall mulch), is
it checked weekly to ensure a depth of at least 300mm? (Yes/No)
Is the certified soft fall mulch checked weekly to ensure that any that may have shifted is raked
back to the main areas of impact? (Yes/No)
If the material within the fall zone is a unitary surface (wet pour/artificial grass) is it clean and
intact, free from subsidence or damage to its composition/joints that may require patching or
repair? (Yes/No)
Is there adequate drainage (e.g. no pooling or water/shifting of surfaces in heavy rain)?
(Yes/No)
Are all edging materials surrounding the fall zone free of splinters, exposed nails and bolts?
(Yes/No)
Are all chain/ropes swing components secure and in good condition? (Yes/No)
Are all bolts and fasteners holding chains/ropes secure? Are locknuts in place? (Yes/No)
Have the covers or guards over all points that can pinch, crush or entrap been maintained?
(Yes/No)
Is the swing seat free of perishing, cracks or splinters? (Yes/No)
Are all footings of the framework of the swing secure and free of movement when the
equipment is in use? (Yes/No)
Are all footings of the framework holding of the swing in place covered? (Yes/No)
If the swing framework is metal are the components free from damage from sunlight, moisture
and (e.g. rusting supports, chains, pivot points)? (Yes/No)
If the swing framework is timber are the components free from damage from sunlight, moisture
and insect infestation (e.g. warping/twisting)? (Yes/No)
Are all nails, screws and bolts in timber swing framework flush with the surface or countersunk?
(Yes/No)
Are all bolts in the timber swing framework in place and secure? (Yes/No)
Are all joints and connections in the timber swing framework firm (not loose)? (Yes/No)
Have all the timber swing framework components been treated/painted when necessary to
prevent rotting or splintering? (Yes/No)
Items requiring maintenance:
1.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:

Scramble Nets and Rope climbers
Is the framework of the scramble net/rope climber free of damage from sunlight, moisture and
insect infestation? (Yes/No)
Has all the timber work in the framework of the scramble net/rope climber been
treated/painted when necessary to prevent rotting or splintering? (Yes/No)
Is all the timber work in the framework of the scramble net/rope climber free of cracks and
splinters? (Yes/No)
Are all footings of the framework of the scramble net/rope climber secure and free of
movement when the equipment is in use? (Yes/No)
Are all footings of the framework holding the scramble net/rope climber in place not visible?
(Yes/No)
Are all joints and connections in the framework of the scramble net/rope climber firm?
(Yes/No)
Is the framework of the scramble net/rope climber free of warping or twisting? (Yes/No)
Are all nails and screws in the framework of the scramble net/rope climber flush with the
surface or countersunk? (Yes/No)
Are all bolts in the framework of the scramble net/rope climber in place and secure? (Yes/No)
Are chains/ropes in the framework of the scramble net/rope climber secure and in good
condition? (Yes/No)
Are all ropes secure and have all frayed ends been trimmed and repaired? (Yes/No)
Have ropes and chains been re-tensioned and securely fastened? (Yes/No)
Have the covers or guards over all points that can pinch, crush or entrap been maintained?
(Yes/No)
Are all bolts and fasteners secure? Are locknuts in place? (Yes/No)
Are the access ramps, landings ladders and swing bridges in the framework of the scramble
net/rope climber free of slipping and tripping hazards? (Yes/No)
Are all rails around decks above 500mm secure? (Yes/No)
Are all rails coming down from egress points of all decks above 750mm secure? (Yes/No)
Are the vertical fences around all decks, landings and bridges above 1200mm secure? (Yes/No)
Items requiring maintenance:
1.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:

Garden arbours/arches
Do the footings of the arbour appear to be secure and stable? (Yes/No)
Are all foundation fastening devices secure (Yes/No)
Are all arbour components secure? Are there any screws, bolts or nails visible that may pose
catching hazards? (Yes/No)
Items requiring maintenance:
1.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:

Water features & pumps
Are the children supervised whilst using the pump? (Yes/No)
Are all the screws and connecting bolts on the pump tight? (Yes/No)
Are the bearings and steel on steel contact points lubricated? (Yes/No)
Are there any broken or worn parts that require re-fastening or replacing? (Yes/No)
Are there any unusual noises coming from the pump during use? (Yes/No)
Is the pump-stand secure and have any fastenings become loose? (Yes/No)
Does the pump display any signs of rust or corrosion? (Yes/No)
Is the water/channel/bowl /rill cleaned of vegetation, leaves algae regularly? (Yes/No)
Items requiring maintenance:
1.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:

Rainwater tanks
Are all house and shed roofs in the rain catchment area free of asbestos, lead-based paints,
chemically treated timbers, lead flashing and bitumen- based materials? (Yes/No)
Do any overflow or discharge pipes from roof mounted appliances such as evaporative air
conditioners or hot water systems discharge into the roof catchment area or gutters? (Yes/No)
If your tank is fitted with a first-flush device is it functional and has it been cleaned? (Yes/No)
Is the roof catchment area and guttering regularly inspected and cleared of leaves and debris?
(Yes/No)
Are there tree branches overhanging the catchment area that need to be removed? (Yes/No)
If screens/guards are in use are they cleaned regularly? (Yes/No)
Is the tank structurally secure? Is the lid firmly closed? Are there any holes or gaps? (Yes/No)
Is piping firmly fastened and draining correctly? (Yes/No)
Is there any water Ponding in gutters that may lead to mosquito breeding? (Yes/No)
Has your tank been examined for sludge accumulation and algal growth in the last 2-3 years?
(Yes/No)
If it exists, is your tank pump in working order? Have filters/strainers been cleaned? Is all piping
watertight? (Yes/No)
If your tank has a back-flow prevention device has it been checked and certified by a qualified
plumber? (Yes/No)
Items requiring maintenance:
1.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:

Creek beds
Is the creek bed draining freely (e.g. no pooling of water in heavy rain)? (Yes/No)
Is the creek bed regularly cleaned to removed leaves and vegetation that may block any
stormwater drain? (Yes/No)
Are there areas where water has ponded, where mosquito breeding may occur? (Yes/No)
Items requiring maintenance:
1.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:

Seats
Are the seats inspected regularly to ascertain structural stability? (Yes/No)
If made from timber does the seat show any damage from sunlight, moisture and insect
infestation? (Yes/No)
If made from timber has the seat been treated/painted when necessary to prevent rotting or
splintering? (Yes/No)
If made from timber is the seat been free of cracks and splinters? (Yes/No)
Are all footings of the seat secure and free of movement? (Yes/No)
If made from timber is the seat free of warping or twisting? (Yes/No)
Are all nails and screws in the seat flush with the surface or countersunk? (Yes/No)
Are all bolts in the framework of the seat in place and secure? (Yes/No)
Items requiring maintenance:
1.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:

Edible gardens
Have the foundations of the bed have not shifted? (Yes/No)
Are all the sleepers free from damage from moisture or insect infestation? (Yes/No)
Have any of the sleepers cracked or warped? (Yes/No)
Are all nails, bolts or screws flush with the surface of the timber or countersunk? (Yes/No)
Does the pre moulded corrugated steel show any signs or rust? (Yes/No)
Are all fasteners tight and have faulty or broken components been replaced? (Yes/No)
Is the plastic seal that covers the upper steel edge secure and in good condition? (Yes/No)
Items requiring maintenance:
1.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:

Garden and edible garden mulch covering
Is the mulch at 75 mm depth in all garden areas and at a depth of 300mm around play
structures? Has it been topped up if required in Autumn and Spring? (Yes/No)
If wind or water has moved mulch out of garden beds have drainage solutions been
implemented or heavier mulch used as a replacement? (Yes/No)
Is mulch regularly raked to avoid compaction? Is the garden edging secure and functional?
(Yes/No)
Have all weeds been regularly removed from the mulch by hand or herbicide?
Has the mulch been removed from contact with plant stems/trunks?
Items requiring maintenance:
1.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:

If any of your answers indicate your playspace requires maintenance or repair, detail below
what problems exist and what corrective action needs to be taken to avoid their reoccurrence?
MAINTENANCE REQUIRED
Items requiring maintenance:
1.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:
2.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:
3.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:
4.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:
5.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:
6.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:
7.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:
8.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:
9.
Maintenance completed by
Completed Date:

Director/Principal/Coordinator
Completed Date:

REPAIRS REQUIRED (refer to each section of maintenance required)
1) Item requiring repair
Cause of Damage
Description of Damage & Repair required

Repair completed by
Completed Date
Director/Principal/Coordinator
Completed Date

2) Item requiring repair
Cause of Damage
Description of Damage & Repair required

Repair completed by
Completed Date
Director/Principal/Coordinator
Completed Date

1) Item requiring repair
Cause of Damage
Description of Damage & Repair required

Repair completed by
Completed Date
Director/Principal/Coordinator
Completed Date

Appendix B - Incident /Accident Report
Download a printable form here
(Note: downloadable forms have spaces to date and document, they have been removed here
at Smashwords request)

All information about incidents and accidents should be recorded on the attached Incident/
Accident report form:
Date and time of the incident: Date:
Time

Weather conditions

Location of incident

Description of incident

Equipment/area involved

Contributing factors if known

If the incident involved injury the following information should also be recorded in writing:

Child/Educator/parents details
Last Name
First Name
Details of the injury sustained
Person/s notified - time and date of notification
Parent/ Nominated Educator
Date:
Time
Director/Principal/Coordinator
Date:
Time
Initial treatment
Subsequent treatment (if known

Corrective action/repair/maintenance recommended

Date corrective action completed:

Director/Principal/Coordinator:

Appendix C - Irrigation System Maintenance Checklist
Download a printable form here
Controller
Controller manual - Find the manual for your irrigation controller and make sure you are
familiar with its operation.
Controller cabinet - Open the cabinet for the irrigation controller and make sure it is free of
debris such as cobwebs or dirt. This is also a good time to replace the battery.
Wiring - Check all wiring connections for wear and breakage. Repair if necessary.
Time/day settings - Check the time/day settings on your controller to make sure they are
correct. This is also a good time to set up an irrigation schedule.
Irrigation schedule - Set up your irrigation schedule.
Sprinkler System
Flush system - Before running the system, remove the last sprinkler head in each line and let
the water run for a few minutes to flush out any dirt and debris. Replace the sprinkler heads
and turn the system on, running one valve at a time.
Broken or clogged heads - Look for obviously broken or clogged heads and make the necessary
repairs. Consider installing irrigation heads that have screens to prevent debris (grass, soil, or
bugs) from clogging the sprinkler heads. Clean out screens that may be clogged.
Broken/leaking valve or pipe - Observe the lowest head in each station for leaks. Algae or moss
may be growing in the area and may indicate the problem.
High pressure - Look for a very fine mist from spray heads caused by excessive pressure in the
system. Correct the problem with a pressure regulator after the water meter, pressure
regulating sprinkler heads, or added devices on individual sprinkler heads.
Low pressure - Check to see if the sprinklers are covering the desired area uniformly. If your
pressure is too low, try watering at a different time or modifying your system so there are
fewer sprinklers on each valve.
Incorrect spray arc - Check to see that irrigated areas are being covered completely. Consider
adjusting the spray pattern if possible, or replace the spray nozzle(s) with another that has the
correct spray pattern.
Low head drainage - Check to see if water is draining through the lower heads. Install check
valves where appropriate, or replace existing heads with heads that contain built-in check
valves.
Mismatched heads - Check to see that different types of heads are not used in the same
irrigation zone. Nozzles should also be correlated for matched precipitation rates.
Over-spray - Look for over-spray of sprinklers onto sidewalks, driveways, and streets. The
sprinklers spray patterns should either be adjusted or changed to a pattern that will stay within
the planting area.
Spray pattern blocked or misdirected - Look for blocked spray patterns. Remove vegetation and
other obstructions that may be blocking the spray, or consider raising the heads.
Sunken heads/short pop-ups - Check each head to see that it is at ground level. Raise sunken
heads to grade or replace existing short pop-up heads in the lawn with taller pop-ups, as
necessary. You can also trim around existing heads to avoid blocking the spray but you will have
to do this on a continual basis.
Tilted heads - Heads should be aligned vertically, except in sloped areas. In a sloped area, heads
should be aligned perpendicular to the slope to achieve proper coverage. Tilted heads can
cause ponding and uneven coverage.
Uneven or extended head spacing - Check to see if you have head to head coverage between
sprinklers. If necessary, consult a qualified professional to design a system with head-to-head
spacing.
Drip System
Clogged emitters/missing filter - Clogged emitters should be replaced. If the system does not
have a water filter, one should to be installed.
Emitters too close/far from plant - Check the placement of emitters. Emitters need to be at the
edge of the root-ball on new plantings and moved to the drip line (edge of foliage) of
established plants.
High pressure/missing pressure regulator - Check for emitters that have popped off tubing
because of high pressure. Install a pressure regulator on the valve for all drip stations.
Missing/broken emitter - Check to see that all of your emitters are in place. Missing and broken
emitters need to be replaced to keep your system running efficiently.
Pinched or broken tubing - Look for pinched or broken tubing and straighten or replace it.
Tubing pulled/blown off single/multiple outlet emitters - Make sure all tubing is attached to the
appropriate emitters and that connections are secure.

Appendix D - Advisory proforma for use when herbicides/ fungicides/pesticides are to be
used in a playspace
Download a printable form here
(Note: downloadable forms have spaces to date and document, they have been removed here
at Smashwords request)

Important Notice to all Parents and Staff

(Date) Pesticide/herbicide/fungicide spraying will be carried out on

(Time) spraying will take place at approximately.am/pm

(Area) we will be spraying the

(Product) with

(Website information) A product Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) can be down loaded
from

(Staff Contact) Or if you have any questions or concerns, please see
prior to the spray application.

The area can be safely re-entered after
am/pm
Date:

Director/Principal/Coordinator

Appendix E - Toxoplasmosis, Melioidosis and Silicosis
Toxoplasmosis Information derived from the Centre for Disease Control, 31/08/2011
Summary
Toxoplasmosis is caused by exposure/ingestion of undercooked, contaminated meat (humans
and animals). Cats who are fed undercooked, contaminated meat may carry the parasite in
their system.
Humans may accidentally swallow the parasite through contact with cat faeces by touching or
ingesting anything that has come into contact with cat faeces that contain Toxoplasma (e.g.,
not washing hands after gardening/play or eating soil/sand that have come in contact with the
parasite)
Cats who have been fed only canned or dried commercial food or well-cooked table food are
not susceptible to contracting and spreading the parasite. Cats only carry Toxoplasma in their
faeces for a few weeks following infection with the parasite. The infection will go away on its
own.
While the parasite is found throughout the world, more than 60 million people in the United
States may be infected with the Toxoplasma parasite. Of those who are infected, very few have
symptoms because a healthy person's immune system usually keeps the parasite from causing
illness. However, pregnant women and individuals who have compromised immune systems
should be cautious; for them, a Toxoplasma infection could cause serious health problems.
A Toxoplasma infection occurs by:
Eating undercooked, contaminated meat (especially pork, lamb, and venison).
Accidental ingestion of undercooked, contaminated meat after handling it and not washing
hands thoroughly (Toxoplasma cannot be absorbed through intact skin).
Eating food that was contaminated by knives, utensils, cutting boards and other foods that have
had contact with raw, contaminated meat.
Drinking water contaminated with Toxoplasma gondii.
Accidentally swallowing the parasite through contact with cat faeces that contain Toxoplasma.
This might happen by:
Cleaning a cat's litter box when the cat has shed Toxoplasma in its faeces,
Touching or ingesting anything that has come into contact with cat faeces that contain
Toxoplasma,
Accidentally ingesting contaminated soil (e.g., not washing hands after gardening or eating
unwashed fruits or vegetables from a garden),
Mother-to-child (congenital) transmission.
How can I prevent toxoplasmosis?
There are several general sanitation and food safety steps you can take to reduce your chances
of becoming infected with Toxoplasma gondii.
Cook food to safe temperatures. A food thermometer should be used to measure the internal
temperature of cooked meat. Do not sample meat until it is cooked. USDA recommends the
following for meat preparation.
For Whole Cuts of Meat (excluding poultry) Cook to at least 145 F (63 C) as measured with a
food thermometer placed in the thickest part of the meat, then allow the meat to rest* for
three minutes before carving or consuming.
For Ground Meat (excluding poultry) Cook to at least 160 F (71 C); ground meats do not
require a rest time.
For All Poultry (whole cuts and ground) Cook to at least 165 F (74 C), and for whole poultry
allow the meat to rest* for three minutes before carving or consuming.
Freeze meat for several days at sub-zero (0 F) temperatures before cooking to greatly reduce
chance of infection.
Peel or wash fruits and vegetables thoroughly before eating.
Wash cutting boards, dishes, counters, utensils, and hands with hot soapy water after contact
with raw meat, poultry, seafood, or unwashed fruits or vegetables.
Wear gloves when gardening and during any contact with soil or sand because it might be
contaminated with cat faeces that contain Toxoplasma. Wash hands with soap and warm water
after gardening or contact with soil or sand.
Teach children the importance of washing hands to prevent infection and keep your outdoor
sandboxes covered.
If I am at risk, can I keep my cat?
Yes, you may keep your cat if you are a person at risk for a severe infection (e.g., you have a
weakened immune system or are pregnant); however, there are several safety precautions to
avoid being exposed to Toxoplasma gondii:
Ensure the cat litter box is changed daily. The Toxoplasma parasite does not become infectious
until 1 to 5 days after it is shed in a cat's faeces.
If you are pregnant or immunocompromised:
Avoid changing cat litter if possible. If no one else can perform the task, wear disposable gloves
and wash your hands with soap and warm water afterwards.
Keep cats indoors.
Do not adopt or handle stray cats, especially kittens. Do not get a new cat while you are
pregnant.
Feed cats only canned or dried commercial food or well-cooked table food, not raw or
undercooked meats.
Keep your outdoor sandboxes covered.
Once infected with Toxoplasma is my cat always able to spread the infection to me?
No, cats only spread Toxoplasma in their faeces for a few weeks following infection with the
parasite. Like humans, cats rarely have symptoms when first infected, so most people do not
know if their cat has been infected. The infection will go away on its own therefore it does not
help to have your cat or your cat's faeces tested for Toxoplasma.

Melioidosis - Information derived from the Centre for Disease Control, 31/08/2011.
Summary
Melioidosis, also called Whitmore's disease, and is caused by the bacterium Burkholderia
pseudomallei. It can infect humans and animals.
It is predominately a disease of tropical climates, especially in Southeast Asia and northern
Australia. The bacteria causing melioidosis are found in contaminated water and soil. It is
spread through direct contact with the contaminated source.
Melioidosis infection can be treated with the use of appropriate medication.
In those geographic areas mentioned, childcare services can minimised the risk of Meliodosis
by:
Ensuring that your sandpit/digging patch drains well after rain, has a cover that allows
evaporation, that the sand/soil is turned over after rain to encourage drying (UV radiation will
kill or a sanitising agent- see below),
Check that any sores/cuts on children are covered with waterproof dressings,
Ensuring all children wear waterproof shoes when playing outdoors,
Children should avoid playing in muddy areas, wet sandpits or places where water has pooled in
grassy areas or where grassed areas are boggy (*note point 2 above, this is only relevant for
those climates that support the bacteria).
Playing on wet grass is considered to be low risk for acquiring melioidosis. Sandpits which are
dry or dry enough to comfortably play in are also low risk.
Transmission
Humans and animals are believed to acquire the infection by inhalation of contaminated dust
or water droplets, ingestion of contaminated water, and contact with contaminated soil,
especially through skin abrasions. It is very rare for people to get the disease from another
person. While a few cases have been documented, contaminated soil and surface water remain
the primary way in which people become infected.
Signs and Symptoms
There are several types of melioidosis infection, each with their own set of symptoms.
However, it is important to note that melioidosis has a wide range of signs and symptoms that
can be mistaken for other diseases such as tuberculosis or more common forms of pneumonia.
Acute Localized Infection: Fever, General Muscle Aches,
Pulmonary Infection: High fever, Headache, Anorexia, General muscle soreness, Chest pain,
Cough,
Acute Bloodstream Infection: Fever, Headache, Respiratory distress, Abdominal discomfort,
Joint pain, Muscle tenderness, Disorientation,
Disseminated Infection: Fever, Weight loss, Stomach or chest pain, Muscle or joint pain,
Headache, Seizures.
The time between an exposure to the bacteria that causes the disease the emergence of
symptoms is not clearly defined, but may range from one day to many years; generally
symptoms appear two to four weeks after exposure. Although healthy people may get
melioidosis, the major risk factors are Diabetes, Liver disease, Renal disease, Thalassemia,
Cancer or another immune-suppressing condition not related to HIV.
Risk of Exposure
While melioidosis infection has taken place all over the world, Southeast Asia and northern
Australia are the areas in which it is primarily found. In the United States, confirmed cases
reported in previous years have ranged from zero to five and have occurred among travellers
and immigrants coming from places where the disease is widespread.
The greatest numbers of melioidosis cases are reported in Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, and
Northern Australia.
In addition, it is now believed to be widespread in Papua New Guinea, Most of the Indian
subcontinent, Southern China, Hong Kong, Taiwan. Though rarely reported, cases are thought
to frequently occur in Vietnam, Indonesia, Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar (Burma). Outside of
Southeast Asia and Australia, cases have been reported in The South Pacific (New Caledonia),
Sri Lanka, Mexico, El Salvador, Panama, Ecuador, Peru, Guyana, Puerto Rico, Martinique,
Guadeloupe, Brazil, Parts of Africa and the Middle East.
Treatment
When a melioidosis infection is diagnosed, the disease can be treated with the use of
appropriate medication.
The type of infection and the course of treatment will impact long-term outcome. Treatment
generally starts with intravenous (within a vein) antimicrobial therapy for 10-14 days, followed
by 3-6 months of oral antimicrobial therapy.
In tropical environments melioidosis bacteria live deep in the soil during the Dry, but are
found in surface water and mud after heavy rainfall in the Wet. In addition, there is no
vaccine to protect against melioidosis. For these reasons and others, preventing exposure can
be difficult. However, there are things that can be done to help minimize the risk of exposure:
Ensuring that your sandpit/digging patch drains well during after rain, has a cover that allows
evaporation, that the sand/soil is turned over after rain to encourage drying (UV radiation will
kill or a sanitising agent),
Check that any sores/cuts on children are covered with waterproof dressings,
Ensuring all children wear waterproof shoes when playing outdoors,
Children should avoid playing in muddy areas, wet sandpits or places where water has pooled in
grassy areas or where grassed areas are boggy.
Playing on wet grass is considered to be low risk for acquiring melioidosis. Sandpits which are
dry or dry enough to comfortably play in are also low risk.
Disinfection
Disinfecting playspace sandpits and digging patches can be completed with the use of
numerous disinfectants including benzalkonium chloride, iodine, potassium permanganate, 1%
sodium hypochlorite. Melioidosis is effectively killed by the commercial disinfectants such as
Perasafe. The microorganism can also be destroyed by heating to above 74C for 10 min or by
UV irradiation. Melioidosis is not reliably disinfected by chlorine.

Silicosis - Information derived from the Centre for Disease Control, USGS, Occupational Safety
and Health Administration, Wikepedia, IARC, OSHA, OEHHA 31/08/2011.
Summary
Sand is a naturally occurring granular material composed of finely divided rock and mineral
particles. The composition of sand is highly variable, depending on the local rock sources and
conditions but the most common constituent of sand in inland continental settings and non-
tropical coastal settings is silica .The composition of sand is highly variable, depending on the
local rock sources and conditions..
Silicosis is a form of occupational lung disease caused by inhalation of crystalline silica dust.
While crystalline silica is a known human carcinogen, the amount of exposure is a factor.
During the 1980s studies by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC)
determined that continued exposure to certain concentrations of crystalline silica dust over
extended periods without the use of PPE or work safety practices caused it to act as a
carcinogen. The silica was usually fine dust specially formulated for industries (i.e. sand blasting,
glass foundries etc.), or was a component of bulk lots used in other industries.
Rather than assess each of the 650,000 produces containing crystalline silica dust the US
Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) released a generic Hazard
Communication Standard (HCS). Under the HCS, OSHA regulated that businesses that use
materials containing 0.1% or more crystalline silica must follow Federal guidelines concerning
hazard communication. Specifically, HCS has the following requirements: Chemical
manufacturers and importersmust determine the hazards of their products.
In 1986 the State of California passed Proposition 65. Like the OSHAs HCS, Proposition 65 put
the burden of proof on business instead of government to make a key scientific determination
about safety levels for specific chemicals. Under Prop. 65 any product that may contain any
substance may be hazardous has to be labelled with the generic warning WARNING: This
product contains chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects
or other reproductive harm.
Because of the OSHA & OEHHAs onus on suppliers and distributers providing proof of their
product being safe most simply choose to supply the generic warning if their product contains
any of the chemicals contained in the OEHHAs list.
There are a number of sand types available to consumers to use in sand play pits/boxes. Safe
play sand suppliers suggest that their sand (beach or river sand) is better for childrens play as it
has been washed, screened and graded They state that most bagged sand is obtained from
crushed quarry quartz which, may/may not also contain tremolite. Some scientists believe
tremolite particles can cause cancer like other forms of asbestos to which humans are exposed.
There are very few long term studies that can provide a definitive answer as to whether
children playing in sand may be exposed to carcinogenic substances (with so many variables
i.e., what types of sand is it, were was it obtained, what is its composition, what are the
concentrations of its components, what type of environment is the sand pit box in, how long is
the child at play, etc.) One researcher, Dr. Michael Babich, a scientist at the Consumer Product
Safety Commission who worked on a study that looked specifically at play sand and children's
exposure to it suggests, Researchers would have to follow children for a lifetime, and even
then couldn't distinguish cancers from a crystalline silica exposure and those from other
environmental exposures, like pollution.
Simple safety protocols for sand play would be:
Make sure that the sandboxes children come in contact with in all early childhood settings are
outdoors.
Keep sandboxes damp (not necessarily wet), to keep any dust down. This step is especially
important in arid climates.
Be aware as to the source of the play sand you intend to use. Do not use bagged play sand that
has been derived from crushed quarry quartz. Purchase River or Beach sand that has been
washed and screened/graded.
Silicosis, also known as Potter's rot, is a form of occupational lung disease caused by inhalation
of crystalline silica dust, and is marked by inflammation and scarring in forms of nodular lesions
in the upper lobes of the lungs. Silica occurs in 3 forms: crystalline, Microcrystalline (or
cryptocrystalline) and amorphous (non-crystalline).
Silicosis is due to deposition of fine respirable dust (less than 10 micrometers in diameter)
containing crystalline silicon dioxide. While crystalline silica is a known human carcinogen, the
amount of exposure is a factor.
Chronic simple silicosis usually results from long-term exposure, 10 years or more, to high
concentrations of respirable silica dust.
Accelerated silicosis usually occurs after 510 years of exposure to higher concentrations of
silica dust.
Acute silicosis is known to develop after few weeks to 5 years of exposure to high
concentrations of respirable silica dust.
During the 1980s studies were performed by the International Agency for Research on Cancer
(IARC) in industries where workers were continually exposed to high concentrations of
respirable crystalline silica (i.e. stone masons, quarrymen, miners, sandblasters, ceramicists,
potters, foundry workers, grinders, stone cutters, brick workers etc.) The studies determined
that crystalline silica was a carcinogen. As a result of these findings, crystalline silica was
regulated under the Occupational Safety and Health Administration's (OSHA) Hazard
Communication Standard (HCS). Under the HCS, OSHA regulated that businesses that use
materials containing 0.1% or more crystalline silica must follow Federal guidelines concerning
hazard communication.
In the development of the HCS, OSHA realized that the task before it was herculean: to evaluate
all the substances to which workers are exposed, as many as 650,000 of which were potentially
hazardous. The Agency decided to adopt a generic approach, and promulgated the HCS, which
requires container labelling, material safety data sheets, and training. Specifically, HCS has the
following requirements: Chemical manufacturers and importersmust determine the hazards
of the product. Suppliers are held responsible for determining whether a substance is covered,
including whether the quantity of the hazardous chemical in a mixture exceeds these cut-offs.
Testing is not required; the employer may assume that if the hazardous chemical is present, the
mixture is covered.
In 1986 the State of California passed Proposition 65 (formally titled "The Safe Drinking Water
and Toxic Enforcement Act of 1986. Its goals were to protect drinking water sources from toxic
substances that cause cancer and birth defects and to reduce or eliminate exposures to those
chemicals generally by requiring warnings in advance of those exposures. Like the OSHAs HCS,
Proposition 65 put the burden of proof on business instead of government to make a key
scientific determination about safety levels for specific chemicals.
In addition because the law allowed private citizens to sue and collect damages from any
business violating the legislation there have been cases of lawyers and law firms using
Proposition 65 to force monetary settlements out of California businesses. The Californian
Attorney General's office has cited several instances of settlements where plaintiff attorneys
received significant awards without providing any environmental benefit.
Under Prop. 65 any product that may contain any substance that may be hazardous has to be
labelled with the generic warning WARNING: This product contains chemicals known to the
State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm.
Because of the OSHA &the OEHHAs (Office of Environmental Health Hazard Assessment) onus
on suppliers and distributers providing proof of their product being safe, most simply chose to
supply the generic warning if their product contains any of the chemicals contained in the
OEHHAs list.
The OEHHAs own website recognises in its FAQs that the warning may mean something
or.nothing.
Q: I recently bought a product that came with a Proposition 65 warning. How do I find out
more about the warning and the chemicals in the product?
A: Businesses are not required to provide OEHHA with any information regarding their
Proposition 65 warnings. A business is not required to notify our office or any other regulatory
agency when it decides to provide a warning.
Q: Is a product safe if it carries a Proposition 65 warning?
A: The fact that a product bears a Proposition 65 warning does not mean by itself that the
product is unsafe. You could think of Proposition 65 more as a right to know law than a pure
product safety law.
Q. What is the acceptable concentration in my product for chemicals listed under Proposition
65?
A. Under Proposition 65, there are no acceptable concentrations established for any listed
chemical in any given product. An exposure that causes a significant risk of harm from a listed
chemical through the use of a product would trigger the warning requirement, not merely the
fact that a listed chemical is present in a product. The concentration of a listed chemical would
certainly factor into the level of exposure that would result from an individual using a given
product. But concentration alone is not sufficient to determine if warnings are required.
Nola Enge a doctoral student at the Arizona State University in her article Is your child's
sandbox a safe place to play? provides information derived from Dr. Michael Babich, a
scientist at the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC). I turned to Dr. Michael Babich, a
scientist at the Consumer Product Safety Commission who worked on the one study I found
that looked specifically at play sand and children's exposure to it (CPSC, 2004, p. 71). While this
study has not reached any definitive conclusions yet, he was able to help me understand the
following:
The science is not well understood with regard to childhood exposure because there is no way
to get the answers. Researchers would have to follow children for a lifetime, and even then
couldn't distinguish cancers from a crystalline silica exposure and those from other
environmental exposures, like pollution.
It is much easier to show a connection between cancer and workers in high-risk occupations.
They are exposed to higher levels for longer periods of time than children are in the sandbox.
The CPSC study measured many different brands of play sand and found most of their samples
were between 90-100 percent pure crystalline silica. Although children are exposed to
crystalline silica in the sandbox, we just don't know at what levels or how it affects them.
Babich said that we do know the risk to children is, at worst, much lower than it is for workers.
Children are exposed at lower levels and intermittently (M. Babich, personal communication,
August 26, 2005).
Enge suggests that a prudent safety protocol would be to:
Make sure that the sandboxes children come in contact with in all early childhood settings are
outdoors.
Keep sandboxes damp (not necessarily wet), to keep the dust down. This step is especially
important in arid climates.
Purchase play sand, not all-purpose sand. Generally, play sand is grainier because it has been
washed and screened, so the really fine dust is washed away.
A fairly absolute clarification of the topic can be found in the attached personal correspondence
from Dr Philip J. Landrigan, MD, MSc, Professor of Pediatrics, Director, Children's Environmental
Health Center, Mount Sinai School of Medicine. New York, 4
th
September 2011.

Dear Mr Reed
Thank you for your email.
Silicosis is not a risk for children in sand boxes. Silicosis is an industrial lung disease of workers
who are occupationally exposed for many years to very high levels of airborne silica such as
sandblasters and quarry workers. There is no way that children, even with their delicate lungs
and airways, can attain levels of exposure in a sandbox that are anywhere close to those
required to induce silicosis.
With regard to exposure to asbestos-like minerals in play sand, the situation is very different.
The issue is that some play sand is not beach sand (which is what I had always imagined), but
instead is produced by crushing quarried rock that has been mined in quarries where the native
rock contains asbestos. When this rock is crushed to make play sand, the asbestos which is a
fibrous mineral is released. These asbestos fibers are microscopic in size and can be inhaled by
children if the sand is tossed into the air during play or lifted by the wind. I can attest that
these fibers are present in some samples of commercially purchased play sand, because I have
seen images of these fibers that my team took through the electron microscope.
Unlike silica, even very small exposures to inhaled airborne asbestos are dangerous for children
because the inhaled asbestos fibers can lodge in the lung tissue where they are virtually
indestructible, cause chronic irritation/inflammation of the lining of the lungs, the pleura, and
decades later cause a cancer named human malignant mesothelioma, a very nasty tumor,
almost universally fatal, that typically kills within one year of diagnosis.
This was the basis for my statement that "If children inhale these fibers they are at risk of
getting lung cancer later,'' he said. ''Either this play sand should be banned or labeled with a
skull and crossbones.'' '

Hope this helps

Philip J. Landrigan, MD, MSc
Dean for Global Health
Ethel H. Wise Professor and Chairman
Department of Preventive Medicine
Professor of Pediatrics
Director, Children's Environmental Health Center
Mount Sinai School of Medicine
17 East 102nd Street, Room D3-145
New York, NY 10029-6574
Tel: 212-824-7018
Fax: 212-996-0407

WHO Collaborating Centre in Childrens Environmental Health

Appendix F Treated timber in playspaces, CCA, ACQ, LOSP & Tanalith E.
Information derived from the CSIRO, APVMA, ERMA, EnHealth, US EPA, Better Health Victoria -
12/09/2011.
Summary
Be aware of the regulations/ legislation in place in your country in respect to the use of timber
treated with CCA preservatives. In Canada, the US and Europe their use is prohibited, in others
the use of existing structures is allowed (using recommended procedures- see below), in some
no guidelines exist.
There are no conclusive studies that link playground structures made with timber treated with
CCA and cancer. In fact there are a number of studies focused on childrens play environments
that indicate that any transfer of arsenic in any form did not pose a health risk. The UK Health
and Safety Executive released the following directive,Play providers and users should be
assured that there is no need to remove CCA-treated items that are otherwise in good order
simply because of the presence of CCA. The risk from CCA in this case is extremely low
A link between handling CCA-treated timber (using recommended procedures) and cancer has
not been demonstrated, as the potential ingestion rates of arsenic that can be calculated from
valid available research are well within tolerable limits.
For the wary the following precautions are advised:
Always wash your hands before eating,
Do not use wood chip (fines) mulch that have originated from CCA treated timber,
Paint any existing structures made from CCA timber with exterior coloured UV (opaque) paint.
Structures that are constantly used will obviously show greater wear, repaint them yearly or as
required.
If you have or intend to use CCA treated timber in the construction of a raised garden bed line
the inside of the bed with plastic and/or plant any root crops at least 100mm from the wood.
Do not clean CCA treated timber with bleaches, deck cleaners or brighteners that contain
sodium hypochlorite, sodium hydroxide, sodium percarbonate, oxalic acid, or citric acid may
release toxic chemicals from CCA-treated wood.
If any construction is being carried out on existing CCA structures ensure that cuts are sealed as
above and that any off cuts are disposed off as per your localities regulations. Any individual
carrying out work on the structures should be familiar with the PPE that is required as well as
safe work procedures relating to any dust generated, sealing of cuts and disposal of off cuts.
Under no circumstances can the off cuts be disposed of by burning.
If, despite the information provided here you are still unhappy or wary of the use of CCA
treated timber or have or know of a child who has a particular sensitivity to CCA treated timber
DO NOT USE IT, use ACQ, LOSP or Tanalith E- where available).
The main concern with CCA is that it contains arsenic. While not a mutagen, arsenic acts as a
carcinogen when ingested at rates above certain tolerable limits. It may initiate skin and liver
cancers. The safe or tolerable amounts of arsenic that can be ingested by humans have been
accurately determined because, unlike most other pesticides, arsenic occurs naturally and can
be found in relatively high levels in the drinking water of some towns in Bangladesh, Japan,
Argentina and Taiwan.
Extensive research has shown that arsenic is safe or tolerable to ingest at rates below two
g/kg of body weight per day (World Health Organisation limit), or three g/kg of body weight
per day (Food Standards Australia limit).
Arsenic is the 20th most common element on earth, so the ability for animal life to cope with
some level of arsenic is to be expected. Arsenic occurs naturally in Australian soil at
concentrations between 0.2 and 50 parts per million (ppm, equal to mg/kg), with an average of
five to six ppm.
Copper chromium arsenic (CCA) is Australia's most widely used wood preservative. It has been
used safely in Australia for 50 years and some 120 treatment plants are currently operating
around the country. During CCA treatment, timber is impregnated with the preservative
solution using controlled vacuum/pressure processes
The arsenic used in CCA is in a form (arsenate or pentavalent arsenic) that is five to ten times
less toxic than the most toxic form, arsenite (trivalent arsenic). Fixation modifies the arsenate
into metal-metal complexes and organo-complexes with wood. Ingestion studies with animals
have shown that this greatly reduces its mammalian toxicity.
The fixation process ensures that virtually all the CCA becomes chemically bonded within the
wood structure. Since March 2006 producers have been obliged to ensure that the product is
adequately fixed before dispatching it from their sites.
The majority of the CCA fixed within timber remains there over its lifetime of service. If it did
not, the wood would rot and fail in much less than the 30 - 50 year period for which it is often
guaranteed. However, a small amount of leaching inevitably occurs. This can show up in small
rises in arsenic levels in the soil close to posts and poles. Studies have found levels return to
normal within about 100 mm of posts and 150 - 200 mm of poles or decking.
A number of studies have shown that CCA is not absorbed into above-ground food crops such
as grapes, tomatoes and cucumbers. There are, however, some reports of a slight increase in
arsenic content in root crops such as carrots and beets grown against treated timber, although
the arsenic is in a safe organic form and most of it is removed with peeling. Any concern can be
eliminated by growing these vegetables more than 100 mm from treated timber garden
edgings or by lining the edgings with plastic.
Painting sawn CCA-treated timber has long been recommended as a way of reducing warping
and checking and will also reduce dislodgeable arsenic from the timber surface. Oils, stains and
clear finishes are often not particularly durable coatings, so that arsenic may still dislodge from
the coated timbers. The more durable exterior coloured (opaque) paints reduce levels of
dislodgeable arsenic more significantly.
In Australia, CCA preservatives are regulated by the Australian Pesticides and Veterinary
Medicines Authority (APVMA). The APVMA implemented a number of restrictions on CCA that
became effective in March 2006. The main implementation affecting the public is that CCA is no
longer used to treat timber for structures where there is frequent and intimate contact, such as
playground equipment, picnic tables, handrails, decking boards, garden furniture and exterior
seating.
A review by ERMA in New Zealand did not find increased health risks from using CCA-treated
timber. Nevertheless, the APVMA felt that more studies were needed to support the continued
use of a potential carcinogen in high human contact applications and that without those studies
it should be restricted.
An important question, following the APVMA decision to restrict CCA for certain uses, is
whether to retain existing CCA-treated timber structures, especially playgrounds. Ultimately,
this will be an individual's or organisation's decision. Credible research to date suggests that
arsenic ingestion from handling CCA-treated timber occurs at well below tolerable levels if the
precautions mentioned above are followed.
You therefore need to make your own informed decisions, and not necessarily believe alarmist
claims. Note that the USA EPA in its announcement to restrict CCA stated: 'EPA has not
concluded that CCA-treated wood poses unreasonable risks to the public for existing CCA-
treated wood being used around or near their homes or from wood that remains available in
stores. EPA does not believe there is any reason to remove or replace CCA-treated structures,
including decks or playground equipment. EPA is not recommending that existing structures or
surrounding soils be removed or replaced.'
Similar statements in Australia can be found from EnHealth Council and Better Health Victoria
One study by CSIRO in some local kindergartens found that playground equipment would not
pose a health risk due to arsenic . This suggestion was further supported by a comprehensive
study in Canada of dislodgeable arsenic levels on the hands of children, which were lower than
anticipated in the APVMA review.
ACQ - Alkaline Copper Quartenary is a relatively new treatment which is a water based solution
(copper, Didecyldimethylammonium chloride and water) which uses copper to protect against
rot and fungal attack and Ammonium Quartenary as a pesticide. ACQ treated timber possesses
most of the same qualities as CCA timber in that it can be used in inground applications. It is
considered a very safe and very effective product with no risk to humans. At the moment it is
approximately 25% more expensive than the CCA and can be sometimes difficult to source. The
Osmose company produces both ACQ and LOSP sealants .
LOSP - Light Organic Solvent Preservative is a treatment that is usually a white spirit based
solvent which contains copper naphthenates and synthetic pyrethroids as well as other
chemicals to provide protection from insects and decay. As an alternative to CCA and ACQ
treated timber it is generally more expensive and far less effective.
LOSP treated pine is usually machined to the required lengths and shapes before the treatment
is applied. As a result of this less pressure is used in the treatment process and a little less
penetration of solution is achieved. This does not affect the longevity of the timber, however it
means that LOSP timber must not go in ground and if the timber is cut the cut ends must be
resealed with a suitable sealant. Most LOSP treated pine must be painted to maintain its
warranty, without painting LOSP treated timbers may only last a few years. NB: The exact type
of LOSP treatment will determine its lifespan, and if it has to be over painted. Always request
from your supplier written details of painting requirements for any LOSP products. Additionally,
due to the solvents in LOSP products they are generally more flammable.
LOSP timber is frequently coated with a protective oil based primer which is usually pink. This
primer is applied to stabilise and protect timber during storage and installation, not as a paint
primer. As a result it is recommended that LOSP primed timber be sanded down to remove the
primer before painting. Unprimed LOSP timber is natural in its appearance as the solution used
is clear and hence causes no discolouration of the timber. Like CCA the timber will weather and
discolour if not stained or painted.
Tanalith E or Copper Azole is a new water borne solution which again uses copper as a
fungicide and azole as a pesticide, it can be used in inground applications and has most of the
same properties as CCA treated timber. Water-based preservatives like copper azole leave
wood with a clean, paintable surface after they dry. There are two types of Copper Azole: A
(CBA-A), and B (CA-B). Copper azole wood preservative is used for treating a variety of
softwood species including southern pine, red pine, ponderosa pine, hem-fir and Douglas fir.
CBA-A: Copper Boron Azole type A was standardized by the American Wood-Preservers'
Association (AWPA)1 in 1995 and contains the following ingredients: copper (49%), boron as
boric acid (49%), and azole as tebuconazole (2%). Wood treated with CBA-A has a greenish-
brown colour and little or no odour. The use of CBA-A has been generally supplanted by the
newer CA-B product.
CA-B: Copper Azole type B was standardized by the AWPA in 2002 and is composed of copper
(96.1%) and azole as tebuconazole (3.9%). Wood treated with CA-B has a greenish-brown
colour and little or no odour. CA-B is in widespread use throughout the United States and
Canada.
Koppers produce a product called Tanalised Ecowood which meets US EPA and European
Union standards for use in playgrounds.

Bibliography
AS/NZS 4486.1:1997 states that the operator of playspaces shall develop and maintain a program of
inspections for all items of playspace equipment based on the manufacturers instructions and local risk
factors. The program shall include the frequency of inspection and the elements to be inspected. Where
hazards are identified, corrective action shall be initiated
AS/NZS 4486.1:1997 states that the operator of playspaces shall develop and maintain maintenance
programs for all items of playspace equipment based on the manufacturers instructions and local risk
factors
AS/NZS 4486.1:1997 states that the operator of playspaces shall develop and maintain procedures to be
followed in the event of injuries, near misses and equipment damage. All information about incidents
brought to the attention of the operator should be recorded.
http://www.cancer.org.au/File/PolicyPublications/Position_statements/PS-
Use_of_SPF30_sunscreens_June_2005.pdf
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The organic gardener's handbook of natural insect and disease control: a complete problem-solving
guide to keeping your garden & yard healthy without chemicals Barbara W. Ellis, Fern Marshall Bradley,
Helen Atthowe
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Garden Pests, French Jackie
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A designated sharps container is very easy to obtain and should be made available at every centre.
Latest advice is that the best and safest way to pick up a syringe is to use your hands and immediately
wash them afterwards. If the person is uncomfortable using their hands, thin disposable gloves that do
not interfere with dexterity can be used. The use of grabbers or other implements to pick up syringes
increases the risk of injury through uncontrolled flicking of the syringe. For more information see
http://www.communitysharps.org.au/
http://www.nphp.gov.au/enhealth/council/pubs/pdf/rainwater_tanks.pdf
http://www.twigz.com.au/home
According to USDA, "A 'rest time' is the amount of time the product remains at the final temperature,
after it has been removed from a grill, oven, or other heat source. During the three minutes after meat
is removed from the heat source, its temperature remains constant or continues to rise, which destroys
pathogens."
http://www.healthylivingnt.org.au/content/?action=getfile&id=705
http://www.healthylivingnt.org.au/content/?action=getfile&id=705
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characteristics of Malleomyces mallei and Malleomyces pseudomallei: I. Morphology, cultivation,
viability, and isolation from contaminated specimens"
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Virkon and bleach are bactericidal for Burkholderia pseudomallei, a select agent and the cause of
melioidosis"
Howard K, Inglis TJJ (2003). "The effect of free chlorine on Burkholderia pseudomallei in potable water".
Howard K, Inglis TJJ (2005). "Disinfection of Burkholderia pseudomallei in potable water"
http://oehha.ca.gov/prop65.html
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/California_Proposition_65_(1986)#cite_note-House-13
http://www.oehha.ca.gov/prop65/prop65_list/files/P65single072911.pdf
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicosis
Crystalline Silica Primer, US Dept of the Interior and US Bureau of Mines, 1992
http://ag.ca.gov/newsalerts/release.php?id=1207
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http://www.prop65news.com/pubs/brochure/madesimple.html
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Report No. 151, 16 pp.
Kwon E, Zhang H, Wang Z, Jhangri G, La X, Fok N, Gabos S, Li XF, Le X. 2004. Arsenic on the hands of
children after playing in playgrounds. Environmental Health Perspectives 112: 1375-1380
UK H&SE Guidance: Copper, Chrome and Arsenic Treated Timber in Children's Playgrounds. Local
Authority Circular 47/18, 2004
http://www.csiro.au/resources/CCATreatedTimber.html
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posts not detected. Forest Products J. 24: 97-98
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Products J. 54: 81-88
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In: pre-conference proceedings, Environmental impacts of preservative-treated wood. Florida Center for
Solid and Hazardous Waste Management, Gainesville, Florida, pp 113-123.
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Risk Management Authority (ERMA)
EnHealth. 2005. enHealth Council position on copper chrome arsenate (CCA) treated timber products
Better Health. 2005. Copper chrome arsenic (CCA) treated timber
Cookson LJ. 2005. Arsenic content of soil and wood chip fines in three kindergartens
Kwon E, Zhang H, Wang Z, Jhangri G, La X, Fok N, Gabos S, Li XF, Le X. 2004. Arsenic on the hands of
children after playing in playgrounds. Environmental Health Perspectives 112: 1375-1380
http://www.osmose.com.au/
http://www.koppers.com.au/ArticleDocuments/38/Tan%20E%20FAQ_2.pdf.aspx?Embed=Y



Garden Maintenance for Playspaces
A comprehensive guide to the inspection and maintenance of
playgrounds, playspaces and playscapes.
The guide includes an all-inclusive inspection checklist as well as
reporting proforma for incidents/accidents and any other events that
may compromise the safety of your environment.
Contemporary research addresses common misconceptions and
misinformation about safety practices and procedures, giving you
greater choice and peace of mind.

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