Fashion, a general term for a currently popular style or practice, especially in clothing, foot wear or accessories.

Fashion references to anything that is the current trend in look and dress up of a person. The more technical term, costume, has become so linked in the public eye with the term "fashion" that the more general term "costume" has in popular use mostly been relegated to special senses like fancy dress or masquerade wear, while the term "fashion" means clothing generally, and the study of it. For a broad cross-cultural look at clothing and its place in society, refer to the entries for clothing, costume and fabrics. The remainder of this article deals with clothing fashions in the Western world.

GLOBAL FASHION INDUSTRY

The fashion industry is a product of the modern age. Prior to the mid-19th century, most clothing was custom made. It was handmade for individuals, either as home production or on order from dressmakers and tailors. By the beginning of the 20th centurywith the rise of new technologies such as the sewing machine, the rise of global capitalism and the development of the factory system of production, and the proliferation of retail outlets such as department storesclothing had increasingly come to be mass-produced in standard sizes and sold at fixed prices. Although the fashion industry developed first in Europe and America, today it is an international and highly globalized industry, with clothing often designed in one country, manufactured in another, and sold world-wide. For example, an American fashion company might source fabric in China and have the clothes manufactured in Vietnam, finished in Italy, and shipped to a warehouse in the United States for distribution to retail outlets internationally. The fashion industry has long been one of the largest employers in the United States, and it remains so in the 21st century. However, employment declined considerably as production increasingly moved overseas, especially to China. Because data on the fashion industry typically are reported for national economies and expressed in terms of the industrys many separate sectors, aggregate figures for world production of textiles and clothing are difficult to obtain. However, by any measure, the industry accounts for a significant share of world economic output. The fashion industry consists of four levels: the production of raw materials, principally fibres and textiles but also leather and fur; the production of fashion goods by designers, manufacturers, contractors, and others; retail sales; and various forms of advertising and promotion. These levels consist of many separate but interdependent sectors, all of which are devoted to the goal of satisfying consumer demand for apparel under conditions that enable participants in the industry to operate at a profit.

India is a country with diversified customs and cultures. People following various traditions live here, their way of dressing also differ from each other. The traces of Indians being fashionable can be found out from the ancient remains of Harappa and Mohenjodaro civilizations. After the independence, globalization is being witnessed in the Indian fashion industry, due to which changes have occurred in the style of Indian dressing. The Amirs and the Maliks and other officers at the Sultanate courts are described as wearing "gowns (tatailyat),jakalwat and Islamic qabas of Khawarizm tucked in the middle of the body" and short turbans which did not exceed five or six forearms. From the earliest period of Indian proto-history, the Harappan culture, the evidence about textiles and dresses is scant but not unimportant. The survival of an actual fragment of cotton cloth, and the upper garment draped around the body like a shawl as seen in a sculpture, offer interesting examples, although it is difficult to give to these pieces any kinds of names. When it comes to head-gears, there are many names that one comes upon, including usbnisba, kirita, patta, veshtana, vesbtanapatta, sbirovesbtana. The manner of wearing the turban evidently varied as much in ancient India as it did in medieval. However, there are close-fitting caps that one finds soldiers and some foreigners wearing in Indian sculptures and paintings. Exceptionally every head was covered by a turban.

Indian Fashion Industry is at its infancy at the moment and has great potential to make the mark on the world stage. Fashion in India has thousands of years of tradition behind it. India has a rich and varied textile heritage where each region of India has its own native dress and traditional costumes. Fashion Industry is growing at a rapid pace with international developments, such as the India Fashion Week gaining popularity and annual shows by fashion designers held in major cities of India. In Indian culture, the body is invested with various meanings and reflected in its rich sculptural tradition decorating the body is yet another way of conveying meaning and personality. In Indian history, the kinds of costumes and accessories worn can be seen to fulfil two criteria: simplicity and opulence. In either of the instances, the choice of clothing is dependent on the person's status, wealth and religious orientation. In ancient India the information about fashion is available from the sculptures as very few examples of costumes, textiles and jewelery have survived. In the Indus Valley Civilization (c. 3000-1500 BC), clothing tended to be simple where men wore loin-clothes while

women were bare to the waist. Their Status was reflected in the kind of jewelery they wore; highranking women sometimes covered their bosoms themselves with jewels. It was because of Aryans that India had more complicated clothing consisting of the upper and lower garments was introduced, to which a cloak was added later. Generally pieces of cloth draped over the body in a style seen in many Indian costumes today. Indian Dhoti, the Scarf or Utterly, and the popular Turban are still visible and continue to be part of Indian fashion. After the independence, Indian Fashion industry witnessed the effects of globalization. Due to this, changes occurred in the dressing style of Indians, which even led to the fusion of Indian and western dresses. Wearing kurtis on jeans, spaghetti with sarees are the examples showing the effect of western culture on Indian. The work of Indian designers is highly appreciated all over the world. Western brands are also coming to participate in Indian fashion weeks, as they see a lot of potential in our market. India Fashion Industry covers a whole range of clothing from ornate clothes designed for wedding ceremonies to prt lines, sports and casual wear. It even includes the traditional Indian techniques of embroidery like chikhan, crewel and zardosi. These traditional weaves and fabrics are used by Indian designers to create Indo-western clothing in a fusion of the best of East and West. Sarees are woven in silk, cotton and artificial fibres. Kanjivaram, Mysore, Paithani, Pochampalli, Jamdani, Balucheri, Benarasi, Sambalpuri, Bandhini are some varieties of beautiful sarees from different regions of India. In Rajasthan and Gujarat men wrap and twist a length of cloth in the form of a dhoti around their lower limbs and a shirt-like kurta. Colorful turbans complete the picture of theIndian people. In urban India, the women commonly wear salwar kameez and the churidar kameez, is worn by women who go to work and the saree is worn on formal occasions. Men wear kurtas and pajamas, or a sherwani for formal wear. Western wear such as shirts and trousers are commonly worn by men across India. Jeans, T-shirts, capris, bermudas are the kind of casual clothing worn by the young and the young at heart, who are the trendsetters of fashion in India.

MARKET CAPITALISATION

A report on Indian Fashion Industry recently stated that this Industry can increase from its net worth of Rs 200 crore to Rs 1,000 crore in the next five to ten years. Currently, the worldwide market for designer wear is amounted at $35 billion, with a 9% growth rate, with the Indian fashion industry creating hardly 0.1% of the international industry's net worth.

LATEST DEVELOPMENTS

1. The organized market for designer apparel is about Rs 250 crore and designer wear calculates to less than 1 % of the apparel market. The global market for designer wear is 5 % of total apparel market and the global market for designer wear industry is largely dependent on the small-scale sector. Consumers for designer wear have a yearly household income of Rs 10 lakh-plus. There are 3 lakh such households developing at 40-45 %. Designer wear industry is projected to increase to Rs 1,000 crore by 2015. More than 81 % of the population below 45 years of the age is fashion conscious 2. Today the fashion designers and management experts foresee an average growth of about 1012 % for the Indian fashion industry in the coming years. 3. Though, the growth rate could be more than 15%, if infrastructural and other logistical bottlenecks and drawbacks are over come, Indian fashion design industry is expected to grow much faster than projected (Rs. 500 cr.) and likely to touch Rs.750 cr. by 2012 from the current level of Rs.270 cr. because Indian companies are heavily investing big sums in the industry, consumers are increasingly shifting focus towards designer wear, exposure to western media and readily available of designer wear in the shopping malls, according to The Associated Chambers of Commerce and Industry (ASSOCHAM).

Size of the Industry Geographical distribution Output per annum Percentage in world market

Net worth of Rs.1000 crore All the major metropolitian cities like Mumbai, Delhi, Chennai, Banglore, Hyderabad, Pune. According to approximations, the total market in India is calculated to be about Rs 20,000 crore. Indian fashion industry accounts for barely 0.2 % of the international industrys net worth

Fashions of this period come from several groups in existence at this time: Egyptians, Cretes, Greeks, Romans, and Byzantine Most is known about Egyptian fashion due to their burial procedures. Linen was used exclusively as a textile with the Egyptians because it was all were able to grow in their area.
The earliest styles of all were plain linen or wool fabrics, but most later examples of Assyrian costume had lavish decorative embellishment to the base material. The clothing of an Assyrian king would have been covered in several types of ornamentation, including embroidered patterns, fringes, woven pattern and gem encrustation, plus jewellery accessories. The kind of clothing worn in ancient Greece was loose and flowing and hardly were the garments ever sewn together. The fabrics used were mainly linen or wool. There were certain typical garments that belonged to the ancient Greek fashion. Women also wore a veil with their clothing whenever they stepped out of the house. In fact, the ancient Greek fashion was quite modern in its outlook as far as men were concerned to the extent that male nudity was really not a big deal in ancient Greece. In general, individual clothes were woven on vertical looms during antiquity. This contrasts with the medieval period when cloth was produced on foot-powered horizontal looms that later was made into clothes by tailors. Evidence for the transition between these two distinct systems, from Egypt, suggests that it had begun by 298 AD but it is likely that it was very gradual. The weaver sat at the horizontal loom producing rectangular lengths of cloth which never were wider than the weaver's two arms could reach with the shuttle. Conversely, a weaver who stood at a vertical loom could weave cloth of a greater width than was possible sitting down, including the toga, which could, and did, have a complex shape.

1300-1700s, 13th & 18th Century

The Hennin, was worn in the 13th and 14th century, was a cone-like hat resembling the spires of the cathedral spire The Tunic was often one of the stylistic features of the classic businessman. The Bliaud was a dress worn by woman or men in this time period.

1400s to 1500s

Women of this time used Pregnancy Pillows when the maternal look was fashionable. Men of this time wore a Codpiece, a decorative triangular piece of fabric attached at the groin. The Farthingale was a stiff metal cone-shaped article worn under skirts, while the Ruff was a large stiff collar worn at this time.

1600s
The French Courtiers influence for this time was a fashion which said I dont have to work for a living. The Puritan costumes were very simple. When religious values are ascendant, dress becomes austere.

1600s Fashions In Denmark the Short Jacket and Breeches were the style of the day.

1700s
The 1700s started with the drastic extension of both the hips and the hair for women. Women were beginning to make contributions to society by becoming writers, business women, artists and doctors. The drastic visual display of their dress was a spectacle which far outweighed the proportions of a man. The Justau corps for men was the forerunner of todays suit coat. The Spencer was a short jacket without tails. Hair was piled high on the head in the Pompadour style and atop the mountain of hair (which usually included pieces of someone elses hair called a Rat) sat large hats topped with feathers, bows and ribbons. Near the end of the 1700s women began to wear dresses that followed the simple lines of the Greek silhouette. The hair softened at this time as well. Women left behind the corset for a brief time.

1800s
Fashion at this time went through some very distinct changes. The 19th century starts with the Greek influence, then woman gradually add to the dress until the Greek is not noticeable. The corset returns! The high society had rich fashions, while the common people dressed simply. It was an era of romance and manners. The well-dressed man of the nineteenth centruy England was called a Dandy. The well-dressed woman wore a large bell-shaped skirt supported by crinoline. The Worth creation brought the fullness of womens skirts around to the back.

Moments that effected Time: Civil War 1861 - 1865

1890s Gibson Girl Artists sketches of young women by Charles Dana Gibson, known as the Gibson Girls, were published in newspapers and set the standard for the all-American girl

1900s
With the decline of the bustle, sleeves began to increase in size and the 1830s silhouette of an hourglass shape became popular again. The fashionable silhouette in the early 1900s was that of a confident woman, with full low chest and curvy hips. The "health corset" of this period removed pressure from the abdomen and created an S-curve silhouette. Skirts brushed the floor, often with a train, even for day dresses, in mid-decade. Around 1908, the fashion houses of Paris began to show a new silhouette, with a thicker waist, flatter bust, and narrower hips. By the end of the decade the most fashionable skirts cleared the floor and approached the ankle. The overall silhouette narrowed and straightened, beginning a trend that would continue into the years leading up to the Great War. Two new styles of hats that became popular at the turn of the century were the automobile bonnet for riding and sailor's hat worn for tennis matches, bicycling and croquet. This decade marked the full flowering of Parisian haute couture as the arbiter of styles and silhouettes for women of all classes. Designers sent fashion models ormannequins to the Longchamp races wearing the latest styles and fashion photographs identified the creators of individual gowns. In 1908, a new silhouette emerged from Callot Soeurs, Vionnet at the house of Doucet, and most importantly, Paul Poiret. The styles were variously called Merveilleuse, Dirctoire, and Empire after the fashions of the turn of the nineteenth century, which they resembled in their narrow skirts and raised waistlines. The new styles featured form-fitting gowns with high or indefined waists, or ankle-length skirts and long tunic-like jackets, and required a different "straight line" corset. The Paris correspondent for Vogue described this new look as "straighter and straighter ... less bust, less hips, and more waist...how slim, how graceful, how elegant...!"

1950s
In 1947 Christian Dior presented a fashion look with a fitted jacket with a nipped in waist and full calf length skirt. It was a dramatic change from wartime austerity styles. After the rationing of fabric during the Second World War, Dior's lavish use of material was a bold and shocking stroke. His style used yards and yards of fabric. Approximately 10 yards was used for early styles. Later Dior used up to 80 yards for newer refinements that eliminated bulk at the waist. The New Look and new approach to fashion was a major post war turning point in Fashion History. The full skirts needed support to look good and nylon was used extensively to create bouffant net petticoats or paper nylon petticoats. Period when glamour became big. Fashion patterns, denim jeans, swimsuit and coronation dress can be traced to this period.

1960-70s
Period known for innovation, mini skirt, punk skirt, elvis prestley and disco fashion. Fashions in the early years of the decade reflected the elegance of the First Lady, Jacqueline Kennedy. In addition to the pillbox hat which is discussed in detail below, women wore suits, usually in pastel colors, with short boxy jackets, and over-sized buttons. Simple, geometric dresses, known as shifts, were also in style. For evening wear, full-skirted formal gowns were worn; these often had a low dcolletage and had close-fitting waists. For casual wear, Capri trousers were the fashion for women and girls.

Stiletto-heeled shoes were widely popular. Mary Quant invented the mini-skirt. People were dressing in psychedelic prints, highlighter colours, and mismatched patterns. The hippie movement late in the decade also exerted a strong influence on ladies' clothing styles, including bell-bottom jeans, tie-dye, and batik fabrics, as well as paisley prints. Platform shoes which appeared on the fashion scene in 1971 and often had soles two to four inches thick. These were worn by both men and women. Wide-legged, flared jeans and trousers. The "disco look", complete with three-piece suits for men and rayon or jersey wrap dresses for women lasted until it was gradually replaced by punk fashion and straight, cigarette-legged jeans. Platform shoes gave way tomules and ankle-strapped shoes.

1980-90s
Period of lifestyle, power dressing, new romantics and fashion icons. Both men and women began to wear looser shirts and tight, close-fitting trousers. Men wore power suits as a result of the greater tendency for people to display their wealth. Men also grew mustaches. Medium-length hair was common for men, while the longer haircuts of the 1970s went out of fashion. However, very long hair for men became fashionable in the late 1980s due to the influence of Heavy Metal music. Brand names became increasingly important in this decade, making Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein household names, among others. The 1990s began the anti-fashion, "anything goes" clothing approach which continues throughout the 2000s and 2010s. Most of the fashion trends of the 1990s were based around the Casual style, such as blue jeans and the T-shirt.

2000-10s
The 2000s are often described as a "mash-up" decade, where trends saw the fusion of previous styles, global and ethnic clothing, as well as the fashions of numerous subcultures, such as hipsters. Early 2000s, women and girls wore shoes and boots with rounded or flat toes. women wore denim miniskirts, burberry, hip-hop inspired sweatpants, Daisy Dukes, ripped "distressed" jeans, flip-flops, ponchos, flared trousers, denim jackets and tank tops exposing the midriff. Colors like baby blue, yellow and hot pink were popular. Skinny jeans and tank tops were also popular among women Mid2000s European and American women wore lowrise skinny jeans, lycra yoga wear, kneehigh boots with pointed toes, trenchcoats and peacoats, tunics worn with wide or thin belts, capri pants, longer tank tops worn with a main blouse or shirt, 1940s inspired New Look dresses and sandals, leggings, and "vintage clothing" including hippie and Boho inspired dresses with paisley patterns. Crocs were a brief fad for both sexes in the summer of 2006, despite their kitsch connotations. Late 2000s, headbands, denim-print leggings, knitted sweater dresses, Nike Tempo shorts, wonderbra and sloggi underwear, ballet flats, acid wash skinny jeans and light, translucent tartan shirts worn with a camisole underneath were popular among young women. Long, baggy shirts were taken in at the bustline and often paired with a belt. Leather jackets and fur coats (previously avoided due to their association with animal cruelty) made a comeback. In Britain Middle Eastern shemaghs were worn as scarves as a protest against the Iraq War and demonstration of solidarity with thePalestinians.

CHALLENGES FACED
The Apparel Industry is growing at a very high rate but still there are some barriers, which are hindering the growth of this industry. Some of them are:

Though the demand for garments is increasing day by day but the production rate has still not been able to match with the ever rising demand. More production facilities are needed to meet the demand.

Most of the raw material needed for apparel manufacturing is available in the developing or under developed countries and these countries do not have enough resources and manpower to explore them. These countries also do not have finance to set up factories for clothing and garment production.

Globalization has helped the trade in many ways but due to globalization the competition has increased and so it is not very easy for the firms to cope up with so much competition, as they have to meet the deadlines and also maintain quality.

The importers of developed economies are facing very stiff competition as countries like China are producing good quality products in low prices due to availability of very cheap labour.

Some trade laws still are very much in favor of developed countries and they need to be reviewed, to facilitate imports from the developing countries.

As apparel industry is fashion driven, and fashion keeps changing, the firms have to cope with the changing apparel industry trends and still complete orders in time. Thus they usually have to work under pressure.

FUTURE PROSPECTS
The global apparel manufacturing industry is expected to grow more than ever in times to come. According to an estimate, the global apparel industry will reach a value of US $ 1,781.7 billion by the end of 2010. The apparel manufacturers are now adopting new techniques to increase their trade. New business models and competitive strategies are used to enhance profits and growth. The consumer is more aware and more demanding with the development of media like television and Internet. They have more choices in quality, price and design. This is the reason why apparel chains all over the world are focussing more on improving the quality of the product and offering in varied range of fashion designs. Apparel manufacturers are developing methods to keep up with the pace of change like offering on wholesale prices to survive in the global competition.