Fabric Inspection

Fabric Inspection is an important aspect followed prior to garment manufacturing to avoid rejects due to fabric quality and facing with unexpected loss in manufacturing. Fabric inspection is done for fault/defect rate, fabric construction, fabric weight, shrinkage, end to end or edge to edge shading, color, hand feel, length/width, print defect and appearance. Fabric inspection ensures to minimize the rejection of cut panels or rejected garments due to fabric faults. Cutting inspected and approved fabric ensures not only finished garment quality but also reduces rejects, improves efficiency and timely deliveries. Operating procedure of fabric inspection department: Width segregation

Four-point Inspection

Shrinkage Preparation

Running Shade checking

Shade board Preparation

Final Preparation for cutting Fig: operating procedure of fabric inspection department at PGCL

1. Width segregation
How the width segregation is being done? After receiving the specific styles packing list from the store, Fabric quality report checker and helper starts the width segregation. Firstly, one person open and remove the packed from the fabric roll, another person laid it down and measure the width from one side needle point to other side needle point of fabric. Secondly, one person cut two parts from the roll for the purpose of shade segregation and shrinkage preparation (If this styles is non-wash then only parts is cut for shade test) and another one, writes the roll number and width into the width segregation format, and cut parts. Then again it wraps into the sack and prepare for inspection. The width segregation is being done 100% for all buyers.

Pick up the fabric roll and open & remove the sack

Laid down the roll and measuring the width

Cutting two parts for shade and shrinkage test

Writing rolls number and width into the format and cut parts

Again it wraps into the sack Fig: width segregation procedure Who is responsible? This is the responsibility of fabric quality checker and helper of the fabric quality department.

2. Shrinkage preparation
How the shrinkage test is being done? In wash garments shrinkage is one of the major issues of quality. Shrinkage can be defined as a change in the dimensions of fabric or garments. This dimensional change maybe in a positive or negative (shrinkage) direction for fabric length, width, and thickness. Firstly, 50cm or more (length) by 50cm or more (width) fabric is cut during width segregation for each fabric roll (all colors), writing roll number & yards, and marking one side for identification of length. Then it is sew all four sides by over-lock machine and send it to wash. After receiving from wash, measurement is checked and compared to the before measurement. All measurement is listed down into the shrinkage test report. The shrinkage percentage is calculated by (after measurement-before measurement) / before measurement. For buyer, Levis and Hampshire 100% shrinkage is tested (for all color). For buyer, VF and others is tested 10%.

To cut 50cm by 50cm fabric parts from each roll

Sewing all sides by overlock machine

Send to wash and receiving from wash

Measurement is checked and compare to before wash measurement (length and both sides)

Shrinkage percentage is calculated from length and width variation

To calculate the average shrinkage from all roll (length and width wise)

For buyer Levis shrinkage is divided into various groups if variation is very frequent. Fig: Procedure of shrinkage test.

Who is responsible? The responsibility of shrinkage preparation is to quality report checker.

3. Shade board/band preparation How Shade band is being prepared? During width segregation a 6-8inch parts is cut across the width from each roll and write the roll number and total yards. Then eight pieces is sewing by over-lock machine in face to face and make a blanket. Then it cuts into the middle, one is for washing and other is to keep for the comparing to after wash. If the style fabric is non-washed then it is not necessary to cut into the middle. After blanket receiving from wash color variation is checking with the before wash blanket and its checking for each roll. Form the total checking the most similar variation makes separate group and highest total number among the group gets the priority and names the shade A, similarly shade B, shade C and up to required is count. For non-wash fabric, the shade is counting comparing color variation from one to other and makes group for similar variation. Then shade name is defined as like wash fabric. After completing this activities a shade segregation report is prepared and makes shade board/shade band chart for various department and buyer and attaching the other report and send it to quality head and merchandiser. If everything is right then quality checker marks the rolls of specific shade A, B, C.etc.
6-8inch parts is cut across the width from each roll

and make a blanket Blanket is cut from middle; one part send to wash and other part keep shade checking

Color variation is checking with the before wash blanket and its checking for each roll Most similar variation makes separate group and define the shade name A, B, C, etc from priority Shade segregation report is prepared and makes shade board/shade band chart

Color variation is checking with one to others

Making swatch of each color

Final check by quality head and merchandiser Marking the rolls of specific shade A, B, C, etc

Fig: Procedure of shade board preparation

For non-wash styles fabricfabric

Eight pieces is sewing by over-lock machine in face to face and making blanket

For non-wash styles

Who is responsible?

4. Four point inspection Four point system: The four-point system derives its name from the basic grading rule that a maximum of four penalty points can be assessed for any single defect and that no linear meter can be assigned more than four points regardless of the number of defects within that piece .Normally, in PGCL inspect 10% of the rolls we receive and evaluate them based on a four-point system. This way, we can avoid fabric related quality problems before it is put into production Amount to select: Inspection is done at least 10% of the total rolls of the shipment. Penalty point evaluation: Defects in both warp / fill directions will be assigned points under the following criteria. The length of the defect is used to determine the penalty point Defect Range Up to 3 inches > 3 inches < 6 inches > 6 inches < 9 inches > 9 inches Points Evaluation 1 Point 2 Points 3 Points 4 Points

Only major defects are considered. No penalty points are assigned to minor defects. (A major defect is any defect that would cause a final garment to be considered a second.) Major Defects: Major woven fabric defects include but are not limited to slubs, holes, missing yarns, yarn variation, end out, soiled yarns, and wrong yarn. Major dye or printing defects are out of register, dye spots, machine stop, color out, color smear, or shading. Acceptance Criteria and Calculation: 40 points per 100 yards is the acceptable defect rate Total Points per 100 sq yds = (Total penalty points x 3600) / (Inspected length x cuttable width) Total defect percentage = (Total defect x 100) / (Inspected length)

Inspection Procedure: Firstly, to determine the amount of roll to inspect (10%) for each color of the total roll. Then put the roll into inspection machine. Then cut of a 6 inch piece across the width at starting, middle and end of the roll, and mark the right and left side of the strip. Then inspections for visual defects with the light on at a speed slow enough to find the defects. (The fabric must be checked at a slow rate in order to effectively find flaws). When a defect is found then checking the size of the defect and give its point according to four point rules. Check that the roll contains the correct yardage as stated by the piece goods source. Check for skewed, biased, and bowed fabric. Mark any defects to the side with colored tape so that they can be easily found and noted. Record any defects. Selection of roll (10%) of total shipment (all color wise)

Put the roll into inspection machine

Cut to 6 inch across the width at starting, middle and end position. Inspection of fabric for finding visual defects

When a defect is found, first measures the size of the defect, then penalty point and then it is listed down into inspection format

Point per hundred square yards and total defect percentages are calculated when inspection completed

If 10% inspection does not meet then again select 10% from rest of the roll. If it does not meet then 100% inspection is done.

Checking the bowing and skew of the fabric and calculating the bowing and skewing percentage (length and width wise)

5. Running shade-checking How the width segregation is being done? Who is responsible? Pros and cons of width segregation: 6. Final preparation for cutting How the width segregation is being done? Who is responsible? Pros and cons of width segregation: