LAMPIRAN 2 Afterfix

Sodium Silicate Part of the easiest and quickest way to paint with Procion dyes. Just mix the dye with water and a little thickener and paint with it on your fabric. When it's dry, cover the painted area with Dharma's Afterfix by painting it on over the dye. After an hour, wash out the Afterfix and the excess dye and you are done. Works equally well on cotton and silk.

Dye Fixative
Washfastness, Wetfastness, Anti-fading, Antiperspiration Rinse This commercial product increases the washfastness, wetfastness, resistance to perspiration staining, and resistance to seawater fading. Works with several kinds of dye and any natural fabric or blend. Works great with Procion dyes on newly dyed items like tie-dyes as well as store bought colored fabrics that bleed or fade. After washing and rinsing out any excess dye and soda ash, just add 1 oz. of fixative per lb. of fabric to new cool water rinse, soak for 15 minutes, then dry.

Soda Ash Fixer

Dense Sodium Carbonate Procion Fiber Reactive dye must be 'fixed' (made permanent) with soda ash. It's a mild alkalai that enables the reaction between the dye and the cellulose fibers. About 1 lb. per 4 oz. of dye is needed when garment dyeing or per 3 lbs of fabric as a pre-soak when tie-dyeing. If you don't use enough, or too much, the dye won't yield full strength. A pH of 10.5 is ideal.

Urea
Organic Nitrogen Recommended for use with Procion when doing tie-dye, silk painting and printing. Urea is a 'moisture drawing' agent which keeps the fabric damper longer during the fixing process, thereby making for deeper, brighter colors. You need about 1/4 cup per quart of dye solution.

Fiber Reactive Dyes

USE FOR: Tie-Dye, Batik, Serti Silk Technique, Ikat, Vat Dyeing or Handpainting USE ON: Cotton, Viscose Rayon, Linen, Silk, Wool, Paper, Wood - All natural fibers

Sodium Alginate Thickener

Sea Weed Sodium Alginate is pure kelp (sea weed) - it's commonly used to thicken food. It is the recommended thickener for Procion dyes and it works as a thickener for other liquids as well. Sprinkle the thickener into the chemical water slowly, mixing continuously. (You can also use a blender). Let sit for an hour or so to thicken before use. Refrigerate to store. Don't over-thicken, thinner is better. We have two kinds: High viscosity, low solids for cotton, and Low viscosity, high solids for silk. The silk one allows you to draw finer lines

but requires you to use more. You can use them interchangeably. Specify which one you prefer.

Synthrapol
As a prewash - As an afterwash 1. Invisible lubricants, dirt, oil, and other impurities can interfere with the dye and cause uneven dyeing. Prewashing in Synthrapol helps remove the stuff before you begin. 2. Tie-dyers and printers: your white areas run the risk of being stained in the final wash by the run-off excess dye. Synthrapol in the wash keeps loose dye particles in suspension so they don't stain other areas of the fabric. 3. Use 1/4 cup of Synthrapol per washing machine load.

Retayne
Anti-bleeding rinse Use this product to 'fix' dyes in commercially purchased cotton fabrics or clothing to prevent color bleeding during washing. Also use to add washfastness to your own dyeing. Particularly valuable to quilters. Use a teaspoon per yard of fabric in a hot machine wash.

Milsoft
Professional textile softener Highly concentrated liquid textile softener which restores the soft feel (hand) that dyeing sometimes removes. Also prevents needle cutting on cotton knits. Much more concentrated than conventional fabric softeners. After dyeing, washing and rinsing, add 1/4 cup to a washing machine load, (or 1 teaspoon per gallon). Wash 10 minutes in hottest water and rinse in warm water.

Water Softener

Pure Sodium Hexametaphosphate If the area in which you live has 'hard' water, calcium and other minerals can interfere with your dyeing process, You can easily avoid the problems by using some water softener. About 1 cup per washing machine load or 1/4 teaspoon per 8 oz. dye solution should do the trick.

Calsolene Oil
Wetting agent This liquid wetting agent is very helpful when dyeing tightly woven fabrics or for generally increasing evenness of dyeing. Calsolene Oil breaks the surface tension of the water and 'wets-out' the fabric making it easier to dye. 2 tablespoons per 8 lb. washing machine load (1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water). Add at the start. Can also be added to concentrated dye solutions for direct application as in tie-dye and handpainting. Don't over use in direct applications as too much causes the dye to spread on the fabric.

Superclear

Liquid dye thickener Use this gel to thicken liquid dye solutions when applying dye directly onto the fabric, as in tie-dye or printing. Superclear rinses away during the washing out of the dyes. 320-N is a synthetic replacement for 80N. You will have to adjust the following formulas to your situation. To reduce spreading - add 4 or more tablespoons to 8 oz. of concentrated dye solution. To stop spreading - add the dye powder to a mix of 2/3 or more Superclear and 1/3 water.

Dharma's Dyehouse Color Remover

Thiourea dioxide DyeHouse Color Remover is used to remove the color from whole pieces of fabric - either by simmering in a pot on a stove or using very hot tap water in a bucket or washing machine. It works with varying degrees of effectiveness depending on the dye and the colors to which it is being applied. Simmering works best. It is most effective for use in correcting dyeing mistakes made with Procion dyes. Testing first is always recommended. Not to be used with Aluminum, cast iron or copper pans or utensils. A 2 oz. packet is good for about 4 lbs. of fabric. You'll also need 8 oz. of soda ash and some Synthrapol.

Discharge Paste Color Remover

Discharge Paste is used with a brush for spot touch-ups. The Discharge paste does not always remove all of the color, it depends on the dye and the color to which it is applied. It will, however, usually lighten the color enough for overdyeing. Better yet, it can be used for creating interesting negative image effects. Has strong ammonia smell. Use in tie-dye: paint on retied, dyed garments after they have dried - great effect.

Reduran 100ml Tube

Hand cleaner for dyes and stains If you work with dyes, inks or paints, you really should have this cream around. This is an industrial cleansing cream made in Germany especially for removing dyes and inks from your hands. Just rub in a little to loosen the dye from your skin and then wash it away. Works like magic and doesn't wreck your skin while doing it. Comes in a tube like toothpaste. Get some now and you'll be glad you did.

Gluaber's Salt
Sodium Sulfate Improves the yield of Turquoise. (Gives more intense color). Use in place of and in the same proportions as Plain Salt when dyeing solid shades of #25 Turquoise or colors mixed with #25 (marked with T on the color chart).

Alum
(Aluminum Sulfate) Used as a mordant in natural dyeing or for preparing fabrics for marbling.

Fiber Etch
FOR DEVORE TECHNIQUE Fiber Etch dissolves plant fibers like cotton and rayon and linen. You use it on blends like cotton/poly or silk/linen. You draw a design on the fabric with the squeeze bottle and then iron. The plant fiber is dissolved and washes away leaving a cutwork or reverse applique effect. There are lots of ways to use it and instructions and suggestions come in the box. It can be irritating to the skin and eyes so you have to be careful using it.

Beeswax
1lb. blocks. White, refined. Better than the yellow beeswax. Melts at 120.

Paraffin Wax

Batik Wax

If you prefer not to blend your own. 1lb. block of pre-mixed 85/15 combination of Paraffin and Sticky Wax. Melts at 150

Sticky Wax

Procion Deluxe Batik Starter Set

#1 Lemon Yellow - 2 oz. #13 Fuchsia - 2 oz. #25 Turquoise - 2 oz. 5 lb. soda ash fixer 1 lb. urea fixer 8 oz. synthrapol dye detergent 2 oz. Sodium Alginate Thickener 1 pair rubber gloves 1 dust mask 1 lb. tray Batik Wax #2 Tjanting Tool one 1/2" flat brush one 2" flat brush Book - Introduction to Batik General Dye instructions

You'll also need: A double boiler or old electric fry pan to melt the wax in, some salt for vat dyeing, and something to batik.

Fiber Reactive Dye Serious Tie-dye Starter Set

Everything you need for tie-dyeing about 20 T-shirts. You supply the shirts, dresses or we can. Whatever!

three 8 oz. squeeze bottles #1 Lemon Yellow 1 oz. #13 Fuchsia 1 oz. #25 Turquoise 1oz. 1 lb. soda ash fixer 1 lb. urea fixer 4 oz. synthrapol dye detergent 50 rubber bands one pair rubber gloves 1 dust mask Complete instructions

Acid Dyes
USE FOR: Vat Dyeing USE ON: Silk, Wool, Hair, Silk and Nylon Acid dyes are made for dyeing wool, silk and nylon and nothing does it better. If you have skeins of yarn or yards of fabric to dye, you've come to the right place. These powdered dyes are intended for vatdyeing yardage, yarns or clothing. They can also be used for painting but they're not our first choice. If you intend to paint on silk or wool, choose one of the silk dyes from elsewhere in the catalog. You can use

these dyes either on top of your stove or in a washing machine but they do require very hot water to work properly. The only other thing needed is a little white vinegar from your pantry. Acid dyes are very economical, as they react fast, they exhaust well and the results are Very Permanent- light and wash fast!

Dharma Pigment "Dye"

Use for: Silk painting, Serti Technique, Freehand painting,Silk Screening, Tie-dye, Crinkle Dyeing, Spraying, etc. Use on: Silk, Wool, Cotton, Nylon (untreated), Polyester,Synthetics & Blends The Dharma Pigment Dye System Heres a really exciting new product! Dharma Pigment Dye is a concentrated, non-toxic pigment system that when applied to fabrics, looks and feels like dye. The big thing is that, unlike dyes, you can get wash-fast, dry-cleanable, permanent results without the use of steamers, chemical fixatives, or extensive heat-setting. Just dilute it to taste (we recommend 1 part pigment to 2-4 parts water), apply it, and let it dry and air-cure for at least 24 hours. (If a 24-hour air cure is a problem for you, you can speed up the process with a hair dryer.) We have found that a bit of heat-setting, 20 or so minutes in a home dryer or a quick 1-3 minute run-over with an iron, will produce the strongest colors. We recommend Dharma Pigment Dyes mainly for direct-application, i.e. hand-painting, tie-dyeing, squirting, dipping, crinkle effect, and even marbling (with the use of a dispersing agent.) It works great on cotton, rayon, silk, silk velvet, and also most synthetics including polyester and nylon. Pigment Dyes are not recommended for solid

color dying, as they do not set until they are dry, which means that the color will migrate while drying. Neat effects, but no solids. On cotton and rayon, especially if you dont heat-set, you get a cool distressed or "stonewashed" look after washing. Its also possible to get a "crinkle" effect. It gives results completely different from the usual tie-dye, yet in some ways its easier to use. Let the garment dry as much as possible while still tied, then hang or lay flat to finish drying. Pigment Dyes are a viable alternative to using Procion, at a comparable cost, when doing projects with small children and/or when you prefer not to work with the chemicals. On silk, we have found that a bit of heat-setting is required. Unlike the silk paints we carry, you can heat-set the Pigment Dyes in a home dryer or with a quick 1-3 minute run-over with an iron. The Pigment Dyes dont spread as much as other silk dyes and paints, making it easier to do detail work without the use of resists. Alcohol and salt techniques work as well. On silk velvet weve gotten fabulous results, but the setting must be done in the dryer (with iron-setting, too much excess pigment remains and the pile sticks together.) On nylon, which is very much like silk, weve found that it works best if its PFP (prepared for printing). Non-PFP nylon is usually treated with oils and other substances to make it easier to weave, but that also interfere with the absorption of the pigment and will produce less than optimal results. The key to printing on nylon is the nylon baseuse 1 part pigment to 4 parts nylon base, and add water to thin if necessary. Heat-setting is required. The nylon base will add to the hand of the fabric, but helps the pigment to "stick" better. Dharma Pigment Dyes are available in 12 standard colors, plus white and black. The white is also called a "pastel base." The primaries are yellow, scarlet or rubine, and blue. It is a very concentrated pigment, so a 4 oz. bottle yields approximately 12-20 oz. of dye. The pearl base adds pearlescence, and requires iron-fixing in order to be washfast. Thickener makes it more like a paint and must be blended to avoid clumping. Bases should be added to the colors, not vice versa, to achieve desired effects. They may, if over-used, add more to the hand of the fabric.

Using Dharma Fiber Reactive Procion Dyes

The basic method for solid color dyeing. Use this method to dye something completely one color. Also called Vat Dyeing or Garment Dyeing.

It's Easy!
1. Wash fabric to remove any dirt, grease and starch. Use Synthrapol for dirt and grease. 2. Dissolve the salt completely in the required amount of lukewarm (about 105) tap water. 3. Dissolve the dye completely in a cup of warm water, then add to the tub and stir to mix evenly. 4. Add fabric and stir constantly (or at least every 3 or 4 minutes) for 20 minutes. 5. Dissolve Soda Ash in hot water and add slowly over 15 minutes to dye bath, while stirring. Don't pour directly onto the fabric. Stir frequently - 30 min. for light colors, 1 hour for deep colors. 6. Remove and rinse out excess dye. Wash in hot water using Synthrapol. For medium shades of most colors, add 1 tablespoon of dye per 1 lb. of fabric (3 gallons of water), or 1/2 cup of dye per 8 lb. washing machine load (20 gallons). Colors marked with * on the color card require double those amounts, and those marked with ** require 4X those amounts. For lighter shades, reduce the amount of dye, and for even deeper shades, increase the dye.

The amount of Salt and Soda Ash are a function of the amount of water used. For each lb. of dry fabric you will need about 3 gallons of warm water. The water must cover the fabric with enough room for thorough, tangle free stirring; otherwise you get uneven dyeing and streaks. For each gallon of water use 1 cup of plain salt and 1/6 cup Soda Ash. For the Blacks, use 2X the amount of salt.

Basic Ingredients for Solid Color Dyeing 1/2 lb. DRY FABRIC 1 1/2 gallons of water 1 1/2 cups plain salt 1/6 cup Soda Ash Fixer 1 tsp. Calsolene Oil 1 lb. DRY FABRIC 3 gallons of water 3 cups plain salt 1/3 cup Soda Ash Fixer 2 tsp Calsolene Oil 8 lb. MACHINE LOAD 20 gallons of water 20 cups plain salt 2 1/2 cups Soda Ash Fixer 2 Tbsp Calsolene Oil

Tie-Dyeing Silk in a Microwave

Mix the dye solution as in the Soda Soak Method. Soak the silk item in pure white vinegar for 30 minutes. Squeeze out the excess vinegar and tie silk in desired pattern or scrunch. Squirt on the colors as you like. As dye spreads easily in silk, use less dye and/or add thickener. Put the silk in a locking sandwich bag big enough to allow for the expansion of the steam. Place in microwave at full power for 2 minutes. To prevent bag from exploding, stop microwave every 45 seconds to let steam bubble subside. Be careful - if the bag pops open, it will make a mess. After two minutes, let the whole thing cool before opening and rinsing and washing in Synthrapol. Warning! The bag and the contents are boiling hot. Opening the bag while hot will cause hot steam to fly into your face. This method not recommended for children or those who do not understand the instructions.

Enjoy!

Dye Chemistry
Fiber reactive dyes attach permanently to cellulose fibers using a covalent (electron-sharing) bond. These molecules carry a "chromophore" which absorb varying spectrums of the light, allowing only certain spectrums to reflect. Covalent bonding is the one of the most basic and strongest types of chemical reactions. This reaction happens gradually over time depending on temperature and/or the Ph level of the surrounding environment. The Soda Ash pre-soak raises the pH level of the garment or fabric to approximately 10.5. Raising the pH level of the solution that the fabric or garment is soaked in raises the level of negative hydrogen ions in the dyeing environment. The chemical bonding process uses these ions in the reaction. Pre-soaking in Soda Ash fixer solution is what allows the fiber reactive dyes to work at room temperature. The reaction can also be aided with heat. Some tie-dyers have had success with using baking soda and microwaving their dyed articles. Since baking soda is a weaker alkali than Soda Ash, it must be accompanied by heat. Some people who are "chemically sensitive" choose to use this method. The dye is allowed to react in a desirable host environment for up to 24 hours. After this time, the bonding sites on the cellulose should be saturated with dye molecules. Excess dye molecules that have not bonded permanently are washed away using warm water rinse and a dye-carrying detergent like Synthrapol.

Introduction To Batik
Batik is a wax resist fiber art. Hot wax is applied to fabric in a design. The wax serves as a resist, preventing the dye from reaching the

fabric where it was applied. This technique can be applied in layers with different colors. The Batik effect is unique in that the wax cracks during handling, either intentionally or not. In each dye bath, the cracks in the wax allow the dye to reach the fabric creating the unique batik effect . Batik can be done on cottons, silks and other natural fabrics. "Faux" batik employs other types of resists, particularly water soluble ones, that are easier to remove than wax, but never quite achieve the same beautiful crackling. Procion fiber reactive dyes are the dye of choice for batik on cotton because they are used with cold water.

Batik masters employ the process of repeated waxing and tub dyeing to achieve their final result. This method involves an understanding of color mixing and overdyeing, as each layer of dye is applied over the last, producing a new color. After many different applications, the background tends towards dark brown, black or grey. The waxed areas remain the lighter shades produced by each individual dye application and combinations thereof.

Waxing and Immersion Method

1. First, pre-wash your fabric, ideally with a professional dyer's product called Synthrapol . This removes most oils, sizings, and pre-shrinks the fabric. It is best to use "PFD" (prepared for dyeing) fabric or "ready-to-dye" fabric that is for sure not treated with finishes like permanent press, which will keep the dye from attaching. Iron out any wrinkles.

2. Stretch the fabric on a Frame or Hoop that will keep the fabric flat and horizontal.

3. Use premixed Batik Wax, or your own combinations of Beeswax or Sticky wax and Paraffin waxes. The more parrafin, the more the wax will crackle. By themselves, Beeswax and Sticky wax don't crackle and Parrafin wax crackles too much. The wax mixture is then melted in a double boiler, electric wax pot, or old electric frying pan set at about 220-240 (CAREFUL! If you heat the wax over 250 it can give off toxic smoke or burst into flames!) Apply the wax, using tools like the 4. Tjanting or the Deluxe Tjanting for outlining, and natural fiber brushes to fill in areas. Wax designs can be repeatedly stamped onto the fabric with metal stamps called "chops", like they do in Indonesia, but they have to be symmetrical so they can be lined up and stamped in exactly the same spot on the reverse side of the fabric so that no dye will penetrate. When applying wax, no matter what method you are using, regulate the temperature so that it penetrates the fabric, not so cool that it just turns yellowish and sits on top, and not so hot that all your lines spread out too much. The wax should have a clear appearance, indicating it has penetrated to the other side. To make things easier, use an Electric Tjanting which can be regulated with a rheostat for soldering irons, so it maintain the wax at the correct temperature.

5. Mix up Procion dye solution as instructed for vat dyeing.

6. Vat dye the fabric, first using the lightest color that will be on the piece and will mix well with successive colors, such as yellow, then the next dye bath could be turquoise, which would actually mix with the yellow to dye the fabric green in all the areas where the yellow was not waxed over. Remember - after Soda Ash has been added to the dyebath, don't leave your waxed fabric in for more than 30 minutes more, as soda ash eats away the wax eventually, exposing areas to unwanted dye.

7. Rinse and gently hand wash the fabric in Synthrapol and allow to dry. Use cool water so as not to melt your wax!

8. Repeats steps 2-6 for each color you plan for your batik, waxing areas after each dyebath that you want to remain that most recent color, and rewaxing any areas that look eroded. Vat dye your darkest areas last. The final mix of colors at the end will be a brown, grey or black, combining all of the colors used on the peice. Hint - Do a test strip 1st with all of the colors you are planning to use to make sure they are combining like you want.

9. Wax removal can be accomplished in one of four ways:

1. Take it to the dry cleaners and let them get it out. (Some won't do it for you)

2. Boil the wax out. This is the oldest form of batik wax removal. Choose a pot that will comfortably hold your fabric and fill with water and a dash of Synthrapol to get the wax and any remaining excess dye away from the fabric. Bring to a simmer/boil and add fabric. Use something to stir the fabric around in the boiling water and keep it submerged. After a few minutes, the wax will boil out of the fabric and float to the top. When the wax seems completely removed from the fabric, remove from heat and allow the water to cool. Be sure that the fabric sits on the bottom of the pan, avoiding the floating wax residue. Allow to cool and peel the hardened wax off the surface and remove the fabric. In Indonesia, people skim the hot melted wax off the boiling vats with big perforated ladles. Whatever works!

3. Iron the wax out. This is also a traditional wax removal process. The fabric is sandwiched between layers of absorbant paper such as Newsprint and heat is applied by iron, to melt the wax out. This process often leaves a wax residue (looks like a grease spot) that is very difficult to remove, so it is not recommended.

4. Use hot tap water. Hang the finished piece on a line. Attach a hose to a hot water spigot, turn your water heater up all the way and run hot water over the piece to melt the wax off. A collection tub should be placed under the fabric to catch the wax and water.

Using Acid Dyes GENERAL INFORMATION AND USE

Acid dyes are made for dyeing wool, silk and nylon These powdered dyes are intended for vat-dyeing yardage, yarns or clothing. You can use these dyes either on top of your stove or in a washing machine but they do require very hot water to work properly. The only other thing needed is a little white vinegar. Acid dyes are very economical, as they react fast, they exhaust well and the results are Very Permanent - light and wash fast! For Vat dyeing wool, silk and nylon, this is the best dye. The only drawback is that it must be done hot, as in on the stove in a pot and heated to a simmer. That's the right way. A compromise way is in the washing machine with very hot water. Works just fine if the water is hot.

DIRECTIONS FOR USE Stove Top Method:

1. Add dye powder to one quart of very hot water and stir until completely dissolved. 2. Fill a metal pot with enough hot water for the fabric to swim freely. 3. Add dye and 1/4 cup of white vinegar. Turn on the heat and add clean, wet fabric. 4. Raise the temperature to 180 degrees to 195 degrees, maintaining temperature and stirring occasionally for 30 minutes. Water boils at 212 degrees. 5. Wash in cool water and Synthrapol or liquid soap. 6. The final color depends on the time in the dye bath, concentration of dye bath and temperature.

Washing Machine Method:

1. Set the washing machine to gentle cycle, hot wash/cool rinse and fill to the lowest level appropriate for the amount of fabric being dyed. 2. Add dye powder and agitate until dissolved.

3. Some dye colors are more dense than others, so use 1/2 jar for one pound of fabric, 1/4 jar for 1/2 pound fabric, etc. 4. Add clean fiber and agitate two minutes. 5. Add one cup of vinegar being careful not to pour directly onto the fabric. 6. Before wash cycle is complete, turn machine off and examine fabric. 7. Fabric looks much darker wet than it does dry. To test your results, dye a scrap of material with your main load and dry with a hair dryer. At this point, you may let the machine continue through its cycle or start again, adding more dye if desired to increase the depth of shade. 8. Wash in cool water and Synthrapol or liquid soap.

DHARMA COMMENTS:
This product consistently works well and is easy to get good results with. With Nylon as with all fabrics you must be sure there is no surface treatment that will interfere with the dye bonding with the fabric, i.e.: water repellents, stain resistance

Inkjet Transfer Paper

GENERAL INFO This two layer paper allows you to create something on your computer, print it on this paper in your Ink Jet printer, and then transfer the artwork to fabrics or other surfaces. You can use this paper in almost all ink jet printers. Printers with heating elements to dry the ink don't work. It's up to you to determine if it works in your printer. This improved generation of paper can be peeled while hot or after cooling and produces a better transfer of the artwork than earlier generations of transfer paper. MAKING THE TRANSFER PAPER PRINT Place the paper in the paper tray after fanning on all four sides. You want to print on the dull (uncolored) side, not the shiny side, which is tinted with color. Make sure the paper is not curled or bent at the leading edge. Remember that you will wind up on the fabric with a mirror image of what is on your computer screen. Text that reads correctly on screen, will not on the fabric. You need to mirror it with your software first.

WHAT TO TRANSFER ON TO You can transfer onto fabrics of 100% cotton or cotton/poly blends, or 100% Polyester. It's best to use white or very light colored fabrics with the Inkjet Transfer Paper. If you are using dark fabrics use the Opaque Inkjet Transfer Paper, it has different instructions. Always prewash & dry to preshrink fabric (even if label says "preshrunk") because if it shrinks later, the transfer will crack! You can also use this paper to transfer onto puzzles, mouse pads, wood and most porous surfaces. USING A COMMERCIAL HEAT PRESS TO TRANSFER THE IMAGE Most household irons are steam irons. DO NOT USE STEAM. The best results are obtained using a commercial heat press. This is a "clam shell" device which applies heat and high pressure for a set amount of time. Unfortunately, they are expensive. If you can get the use of one, use it at 325 Fahrenheit for 15-20 seconds. Remove paper while hot for a satin finish or peel cold for a glossy finish. USING AN IRON TO TRANSFER THE IMAGE After printing, cut away the blank, unprinted area of the transfer. Preheat the iron at the hottest setting (cotton). Place the fabric on a hard surface. Iron (without steam) to remove wrinkles and any moisture in the fabric, and to preheat the fabric. Place the transfer image side down on the fabric. Press iron firmly over the transfer for 15-20 seconds in each position (start in middle and work in circlular fashion towards outer edge to eliminate bubbles) until entire transfer has been covered. Heat the entire surface again using a circular motion. Peel the paper backing off while hot for a satin finsh or cold for a glossy finish. WASHING INSTRUCTIONS The transfers will feel a bit stiff when new. This feel will become softer after washing. Always turn the garment inside out. Wash in warm or cold water. Plain detergent is ok but do not use bleach or detergents containing whiteners, brighteners, bleaches, etc. Remove from washer immediately and tumble dry on low or air setting. The water soluble ink on the transfer can bleed if garment is left wet, or hung to dry. If the garment needs ironing, don't iron directly on the transfer, cover it with baking parchment or a silicone slip.

STORAGE (Important) Store the paper flat in a cool, dry, dark place. Paper is usually good for at least 6 months except in very humid conditions. TROUBLESHOOTING Cracks - can be caused by not preheating the fabric to get moisture out, or after washing if fabric not preshrunk, or from fabric being stretched too much. Hard looking surface that almost peels off - iron was too hot. Doesn't stick to the fabric - iron too cool. Bubbles - not evenly applied from center working outwards. Fading - ink jet inks are water soluble and can fade over time with continuous washings. Bleeding - see washing instructions "This is what we know from the manufacturer and from ours and others experiences. It's not intended to be class or book nor is it a substitute for your own experience. You are responsible for testing everything first to see if it works for you in your situation." PEEL WHILE COLD or HOT. EACH GIVES A DIFFERENT EFFECT