P.Madhuri Reddy * et al.

/ International Journal of Advances in Pharmacy and Nanotechnology

IJAPN
Available Online through www.ijapnonline.org

Review Article ISSN: 2231 3966

A REVIEW ON IMPORTANCE OF HERBAL DRUGS IN COSMETICS

P.Madhuri Reddy, M.Gobinath, K.Mallikarjuna Rao, P.Venugopalaiah, N.Reena, Ratnam Institute of Pharmacy, Pidathapolur, Muthukur, Nellore 524 346. .Received on 20-04 -2011 Revised on 19-06-2011 Accepted on : 29 06 2011

ABSTRACT Herbal extracts are primarily added to the cosmetic preparations due to several associated properties such as antioxidant property, topical anti-inflammatory property, anti-dermatitis, facial creams, antiacne like presence of so many important application. The main objective of the present review, revealed the cosmetics importance in the world, at the same time importance of herbal drugs in cosmetics. Some herbal drugs chemical constituents give the good elegance to the formulation ultimately will have the good therapeutic value. Key Words: Herbal drugs, Cosmetics, Herbal extracts, Hair care products, Skin care products, INTRODUCTION Medicinal Plants, their preparations and secondary metabolite constituents have been used since the earliest history of humanity in modern western medicine and in certain systems of traditional medicine and have formed one of the foundations for healthcare in cultures throughout the world. For thousands of years, humans have used herbs. Herbs are generally defined as non-woody plants, which die after blooming. This definition has been expanded to any of the plants of which part or whole can be used in medicinal treatments, culinary preparations, nutritional supplementation, or used as a coloring or cosmetic agent. When herbs are taken, the body starts to get cleansed, it gets purifying itself. Unlike chemically synthesized, highly concentrated drugs that may produce many side effects, herbs can effectively realign the body's defenses.

For Author Correspondence* P.Madhuri Reddy, Ratnam Institute of Pharmacy, Pidathapolur, Muthukur, Nellore 524346. Mail I.D: madhuri_rdy@hotmail.com Mobile No: 09000598835.

Herbs do not produce instant cures, but rather offer a way to put the body in proper tune with nature. Herbs play a significant role, especially in modem times. The growing interest in herbs is a part of the movement towards change in life-styles. This movement is based on the belief that the plants have a vast potential for their use as a curative medicine. Herbal extracts as the name suggests, is the extract of herbs. Herbal extracts are an ancient methodology as its references have been discovered in holy Vedas and in unani scriptures. Herbal extracts have unending health benefits so, it is expected that they will soon revive the era of healthy mind and body. With the realization that chemical medicines are not always "magic bullets" and may carry serious side effects[1]. Today, in this whole world there is turn to return towards the herbalism and use of herbal products and to adopt more natural way of life[2]. Herbal extracts are primarily added to the cosmetic preparations due to several associated properties such as antioxidant properties[3]. These antioxidant botanicals are generally classified into three categories depending upon the nature of their constituents as carotenoids, flavonoids and polyphenols. Flavonoids, impart the UV protection and metal chelating properties. The polyphenols is a large class and contains various molecules like rosemarinic acid(rosemary)[3][4]. Apart from these, the herbal extracts have also been used for the topical anti-inflammatory properties. These agents block the inflammatory changes that result during cutaneous ageing and thus may be helpful in reversing the signs of ageing[5]

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Although the term herbal extract inherently purports to have beneficial and benign properties, these extracts may have adverse reactions in individuals. For example, they can be a possible source of allergenicity in patients presenting with contact dermatitis[6]. We therefore, suggest that regulatory authorities should attend the issue of ensuring quality and safety of herbal cosmetic products immediately before embarking on more arduous task of ensuring efficacy [7]. COSMETICS The first archaeological evidence of cosmetics usage was found in Egypt around 3500 BC during the Ancient Egypt times with some of royalty owning make-up, The Ancient Greeks and Romans also used cosmetics. The word cosmetics derive from the Greek [8]. The beauty of skin and hair basically depends on individuals health, diet, habits, job routine, climatic conditions and maintenance[2]. During the 20th century, the popularity of cosmetics has increased rapidly. Many manufacturers distinguish between decorative cosmetics and care cosmetics[8]. The main objective of the cosmetic application is decorative to enhance the general appearance of face and other body parts to minimize skin defects to a considerable extent. It is applied to maintain the status of skin and hair. The other main objectives of cosmetic application are psychological, social and clinical[9]. It is not simple to define the term cosmetic as its scope and application to the care of different body parts is very wide. so (i) The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) which regulates cosmetics in the United States defines cosmetics as: "intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body's structure or functions." This broad definition includes, any material intended for use as a component of a cosmetic product. The FDA specifically excludes soap from this category[8]. (ii) Drugs and Cosmetics Act 1940 and Rules 1945 defined cosmetics as Articles which are meant to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on or introduced into or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance[9][10], and by the European directive 93/35/EEC(European Commission), the cosmetic products are defined as any substance or preparation intended to be placed in contact with the various external parts of the human body or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleansing them, perfuming them, changing their appearance and/or correcting body odors and/or protecting them or keeping them in good conditions[11]. The history of the herbal cosmetics industry includes very dark chapters in European and Western countries from about six centuries back[1]. During the past decades, there has been a dramatic increase in the use of natural products in cosmetics. A wide range of active principle of various plants and animals including vitamins, hormones, phytohormones, bioflavonoids, enzymes, tannic acid, fruit acids, amino acids, sugars, glycosides, essential oils and dye stuffs are being considered useful in herbal cosmetic formulations[12]. The use of phytochemicals from a variety of botanicals has dual function, (i) they serve as cosmetics for the care of body and its parts and (ii) the botanical ingredients present influence biological functions of skin and provide nutrients necessary for the healthy skin or hair[2]. Herbal Cosmetics, here in after referred as Products, are formulated, using various permissible cosmetic ingredients to form the base in which one or more herbal ingredients are used to provide defined cosmetic benefits only, shall be called as Herbal Cosmetics[13]. The usage of herbal cosmetics has been interested to many folds in cosmetic and personal care industry and it has been growing at an average rate of about 15% for the last few years. All this happened due to the excessive use of synthetic based products, synthetic chemicals, chemical dyes and their derived products in the last one and half century; their production and usage cause human health hazard with several sideeffects leading to numerous diseases. It also caused considerable environmental pollution and disturbed ecosystem [2]. Many cosmetic companies are coming out with "All natural" and organic products. Products who claim they are organic are not, unless they are certified "USDA Organic"[8]. The physical states of cosmetics preparation are broadly divided into following three categories: Solids: face powders, talcum powders, face packs, masks, compact powders, cake make-up, eye make ups, bath salts etc. Semi solids: creams, ointments, hair colors, hair gels, butters, liniments, wax base creams, pastes, etc. Liquids: lotions, moisturizers, hair oil, conditioners, shampoos, bath oils, hand sanitizer, cleansing milk, mouthwashes, perfumes, nail polish, deodorants, liniments, sprays, etc.[2] Table enlists various herbal crude drugs with their parts used for cosmetic purposes. Some medicinal plants, which have been studied in detail for their use in cosmetics, are being discussed here for further exploration

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S.No. 1.

Botanical Name & Family Acacia concinna Family: Mimosaceae

Common Name Shikakai

Chemical Constituents Lupeol, - spinasterol, acacia acid, lactone, nicotine, colycotomine, citric, succinic, oxalic, tartaric and ascorbic acids - asarone,pentobarbital,asarone, monoterpenes Furfural,flavones glycosides,vitamin c, vitamin b, tartaric acid.adansonia flavonoside pigment Quinazoline alkaloid, vasicine, vasicinone Aescin,hippocaesculin ,coumarin-aesculin & flavonoids

Uses Pods extract is used to control dandruff & as hair cleanser It is used to relieve burns, skin problems, eruptions It is used to cure skin diseases and antiinflammatory Leaf extract is used to control scabies and used for skin affection It is used as anti-aging, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory. It is also used in hair care products. Leaf extract is used for skin eruption. Oil is used to treat sores, pimples and acne.

Cosmetic Products Shampoo, oil, soaps.

2.

Acorus calamus Family:Araceae Adansonic digitata Family: Bombacaceae Adhatoda vasica Family: Acanthaceae Aesculas hippocastanum Family:Hippocastanaceae/ Sapindeceae Ailanthus excelsa Family: Simaroubaceae Allium sativam Family:Aliaceae

Sweetflag, calanes Baobab,monke y bread, African calabash Malabar nut, vasaca Horse nut chest

Aromatic, dusting powders, skin lotions. Oil, soaps, ointments.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

Tree heaven, maharukh Garlic

of

Quassinoids derivatives

alianthone

Powder, capsules, fresh extract ,perfumes Creams, lotions, gels, face mask, scrub, toner, cleanser, deodorants, shampoo, soaps. Skin Creams, lotions

8.

Aloe vera Family: Liliaceae agavaceae Ananus comosus Family: Bromeliaceae Andropogon muricatus Family: Poaceae

9.

Curacao aloe Barbados aloe Indian aloe Taffarabad aloe Pinapple

Alliin,allicin,ajoene,vinyldithins, diallyl disulphide,trisulphide,antioxidan t-diallyl tetra,penta,hexa & hepta sulphides Anthraquinone glycosidealoin,carboxypeptidase salicylate components, cglycosyl chromone Bromeloin, -carotene, citronic ,ascorbic acids. Essential oil contains vetiselinenol of khusimol, sesquiterpenoids-vetidiol. Bioflavonoids,vit-P, capric acid tannins,

Skin Creams, lotions

Leaf juice is applied on skin for smoothness, healing, controlling skin burns & sun burns. Anti-inflammatory, antiaging, improves hydration and elasticity It is used to treat acne, cuts, eczema, dry skin, wounds, and aging skin. Powdered root paste is used to cure irritated skin and allergies. Emollient, antiinflammatory. It is used for skin conditioning. Skin whitener, melanin inhibitor, it is used for treat skin pigmentation, sunburns, freckles. Flower extract used in hair oil, Stimulates hair follicle. It is used to treat skin diseases and wounds Anti-inflammatory, controls acne, wounds, burns, pimples

Moisturizer lotions, creams, hair tonics, shaving creams. Rejuvenating cream, scrub, problem skin enzyme cleanse Perfumes, oils, skin care creams, soaps, body butters, lotions, scents. Oil, soaps, moisturizing cream, cleanser, Skin creams, skin whitening creams, sunscreen lotion. Creams, micro emulsion, ointments, tinctures. Skin ointments.

10.

Vetiver, cuscus, khus

11.

Arachis hypogaea family: Papilionaceae/ Fabaceae Acrtostaphylos urva ursi Family: Eriaceae Arnica montana Family: Asteraceae Artemesia absinthium Family: compositae/ asteraceae Artemesia afra Family:Asteraceae

Peanut, ground nut Bear berry

12.

Arbutin,tannins,flavonolglucosid e,isoquercities,methyl arbutin Flavonoids (0.4% to 0.6%) , Isomeric alcohols, Terpenoids, amines, coumarins, volatile oils Essential oils thujone(absinthol)azulenes,thujy l alcohol. Artabsin ,-thujone, 1,8-cineole, camphor, -terpineol

13.

Arnica, leopards bane Wormwood, maderwood Wild worm wood, African wormwood

14.

15.

Lotions, rejuvenating creams, body wash

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16.

Azadirachta indica Family: Meliaceae

Neem ,margosa

Tetranortriterpenoids azadirachtin, diterpenes.

It cures wounds, leprosy, skin diseases like acne, ulcers, hair problems

Facial creams, masks, powders body lotions, shampoos, hair lotions, soaps, ointments. Creams, lotions, scrub, gels, shampoos, hair cleanser, lashes and brows.

17.

Bambus bambos Family:Gramineae, poaceae

Spicy throny bamboo

or

Cyanogenic glucoside taxiphyllin silicious crystalline substances

18.

Betula pendula Family:Betulaceae Brassica napus Family: Brassicaceae Buchanania lanzan Family: Anacardiaceae Butea frondosa Family: Fabaceae

Birch

Methyl salicylate, fatty acids, polysaccharides. Brassino steroid brassinolide 5-vinyl-2-oxazolidinethone, thioglucosinolates and thioglucosides. Triacylglycerol,free fattyacids, diacylglycerols, Monoacylglycerols & sterols. Flavonoids, glucosides butin,butrin,isobutrin & palastrin,coreopsin, monospermoside,and sulphurein&chalcones Triterpenes,sterols,flavonoids,ca rotenes,bitter glycosides,resins,volatile oil, mucilage Polyphenols,flavonoids,tannins, methyl xanthines Quercetin,kaempferol,qviculasio n. Enzymes-Papain & chymopapains. Alkaloidscarpine & pseudocarpine, xpressin. Carthamone,lignans polysaccharide. &

19.

Mustard

20.

21.

Almondette tree, chironnji,buch anans mango Flame of the forest, butea gum, Bengal kino Pot-marigold, marigold calendula Green tea

Bamboo emanates a contemplative beauty. Strengthens the existing hair while it fortifies, rejuvenates and prevents hair loss and dandruff. Darkens lashes and brows, and cures allergies Extract of leaf is used as anti-dandruff, oil is used to cure skin diseases Seed oil is used as hair oil and useful for hair nourishment. It is also used for healthy and glowing skin Kernel powder is used to cure itch, blemishes, rashes, spots, pimples burns Leaves extract is useful in pimples and seed extract for fungal infection and bruises, flower extract for hair and skin conditioning Flower extract is used for smoothening hair. It is used to cure acne, inflammation, and aging. Anti-oxidant, antiinflammatory, photo aging, anti-acne. Hair growth stimulant.

Perfumes, shampoos, oil, soap Hair oil and conditioner, deodorizer, face mask. Skin ointments, scrub, powder. Skin creams, hair conditioner, powder.

22.

Calendula officinalis Family:Asteraceae Cammelia sinensis Family: Theaceae Cinchona succiruba Family: Rubiaceae Carica papaya Family:Caricaceae

23.

24.

25.

Red cinchona, china bark, crown. Loxa bark Papaya, papaw

Hair creams, hydrogels, liquid extracts, anti-wrinkle cream, bath foam. Face creams, toner, scrub, cleanser, mask, shampoos, sunscreen lotion Hair care products

26.

Carthamus tinctorius Family:Asteraceae Centella asiatica Family: Umbelliferae Apiaceae Cereus grandiflorus Family: Cactaceae

Safflower

27.

Asiatic pennywort ,Indian pennywort Cereus, night blooming cereus, sweet

Brahmoside,asiaticoside,thankun iside,hydrocotyline alkaloid,velarin. Citric,oxalic,malonic,fumaric,ma leic acids.glucose,fructose,starch,ami

28.

fruit pulp make skin soft and removes blemishes. It can be used for treating wrinkles, dandruff, sunspots, age spots, acne problems. Alcoholic extract is used in hair tonics and seed oil makes skin soft and smooth. Whole plant extract is used for growth and maintenance of hair. It fights oxidation thereby improves skin firmness and elasticity It moisturizes ,remineralizes and tightens skin

Facial cream ,face cream, bath oil, shampoo, scrub, face mask, anti-aging cream Oil, skin moisturizer, lip balms. Face creams, lotions, toners, scrub, mask, eye creams, hair conditioners. moisturizing cream, oil ,face mask

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scented cactus

no acids & tyramine

29.

Cichorium intybus Family: Compositae/ Asteraceae Citrullus vulgaris family: Cucurbitaceae Citrus limon Family: Rutaceae

Chicory Indian endive Watermelon

30.

Inulin, lactucin, lactucopiciin, citric, tartaric acids, coumarinschicoriin, esculetin, esculin, scopoletin. Citrullin, arginine, triterpene, bryonolic acid Coumarins,psoralins,flavonoids, vitamins, limonene ,& pinenes,citral, hesperidin, eriocitrin,geraniol,geranial,neral Minerals like potassium, vitamins ,reducing sugars, total sugars, brix Crocin, pirosin, crocetin, carotenoids, riboflavin, thiamine, terpenes, xanthone.

It is used to clear skin blemishes Additives in sun creams, seed oil works as restorative and nourishing for skin, It cures acne, sebum secretion Astringent, Oil is used for reducing skin itching and nourishes skin. Lemon grass rejuvenates hair follicles. It whitens and depigments. It is used cure skin diseases and dandruff, it nourishes hair. It is used to treat skin diseases and dresses bruises. It moisturizes, soothes and promote fairness of skin. It treats dandruff and Nourishes hair Water extract and seeds protects from sunburn. It moisturizes skin. It protects from hair loss. It treats puffy eyes and dark circles. Rhizome powder possesses anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. It is used in treatment of skin and hair problems. Seed extract is used for beautification and protection of skin. It moisturizes hair

Skin conditioner, powder, face mask. Creams, Lotions, soaps, eye creams Face cream, hair conditioners and shampoos, face mask, lip balm. Oil, hair conditioner, soaps, skin moisturizer. Face and skin cream, fairness creams, anti acne, face mask, hair conditioners.

31.

Lemon

32.

Cocos nucifera Family:palmae/ Arecaceae Crocus sativus Family:Iridaceae

Coconut palm

33.

Saffron cocus

34.

Cucumis sativus Family: Cucurbitaceae

Cucumber

Rutin,cucurbitaside glucoside,ferredoxin, spinasterols, sterols.

alpha-

Hair conditioners, perfumes, skin creams, lotions, toners shampoos, Facial and face creams, ointments, shampoos, hair colors Hair gel, skin and face creams

35.

Curcuma longa Family: Zingiberaceae

Turmeric

Curcuminoids,phenolic diaryl heptanoids,curcumin,monodesm ethoxycurcumin,turmerone,serqu iterpene ketones. Glycoside amygdalin, tannin, mucilage, fattyoil, pectin, Ionone glycosides, octadienoic acid ,thiamine, riboflavin ,nicotinic acid ,vit b6 ,inositol ,pantothenic and folic acids, biotin Wedelolactone and demethylwedelolactone Anethole, fechone methyl chavicol, flavonoids,coumarins, sterols, petroselenic acid and limonene Garcinol,isogarcinol,cyancidin,3 -glycoside,cyanidin,coumarins , 3-sambubioside Flavone glycosides,quercetin,kaempferol, terpenes.

36.

Cydonia oblonga Family: Rosaceae

Quince fruit

37.

Eclipta alba Family: Asteraceae

Composite/

Trading eclipta plant, false dairy Fennel

38.

Foeniculum vulgare Family: Umbelliferae/ Apiaceae Garcinia indiaca guttiferae/ olusiaceae Gingko biloba Family: Ginkgoaceae

39.

Kokum butter mango, Steen oil Maiden hair tree kew tree

Hair growth stimulant and hair dyeing, paste of herb is useful to control skin diseases. It is used as de-odorizing agent, soothes skin and cleanses, promotes hair growth It is used to regenerate skin cells, prevents dry skin, wrinkles. oxidative stability Anti-oxidant, inflammatory anti-

Hair oil, powder, skin ointments. anti-aging cream Oil, deodorant, cleanser, toner, anticellulite cream, hair conditioner. Creams, lotions, balms, conditioners, foundations, lipsticks, moisturizers. Face creams ,lotions, sunscreen lotions

40.

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41. Glycine max Family: Fabaceae Glycirrhiza glabra Family:Papilionaceae/ fabaceae Gossypium hirsutum/ herbaceum Family: Malvaceae Jasminum grandiflorum Family: Oleaceae Soya bean,soy Proteins, carbohydrates, amino acids, lipids, mineral salts. Glycyrrhizin,glycyrrhetincacid,is oflavonoids,chalcones,coumarin s,triterpenoids Lipids, gossypol, oleic, palmitic, linoleic acids Benzyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, phytol, jasmone, methyl jasmonate, ascorbic acid, anthranillic acid, pyridine & nicotinate derivatives. Juglone, juglandin, juglandic acid, essential oil, minerals, terpenoids, geranic acid, &pinene, 1,8cineole, limonene, eudesmol. Essential oil- linalool, linalyl acetate, borneol, camphor, lavandulyl ,caryophyllene, limonene. Aerial parts-ursolic acid, lactone, betulin, betuliinic acid, 3 formyl ursolic acid Lawsone,coumarins,flavonoids,l uteolin,7-o-glucoside,acacetin-7o-glucoside,-sitosterol 3-oglucoside and tannins Isorottlerin, rottlerin, kamaladiol 3-acetate friedelin Malic,citric,lactic & succinic acid, vitamins,minerals,flavones,amyg dalin glycoside Citric and ascorbic acids , carotenoids ,phenolic compounds,flavonoids,amyrins,gallotannin,glucogallin,i ndicol,taraxerol,friedelin,lupeol. -bisabolol, azulenes,chamazulene,guiazuline & matricine,flavonoids,patuletin,qu ercetin,spiroethers & coumarins a-pinene, b-pinene, sabinene, myrcene, a-phellandrene, aterpinene, limonene, 1,8-cineole, y-terpinene, p-cymene, terpinolene, linalool, terpinen-4ol and a-terpineol. Menthol, menthone. &pinene, -thujene,l-limonene,phellandrene,furfural,methylcycl ohexanone,camphene It moisturizes, restores elasticity, flexibility of skin, anti-aging. Skin conditioning, smoothening, soothing, hair conditioning. Cotton milk has Skin moisturizing, hair repairing and conditioning. Essential oil extracted from flowers is used to control skin diseases, essential oil extracted from plant protects from sunburn Leaves and hulls of fruits used for hair dyeing, combats skin problems. It cures dandruff and scalp problems. It is cytophylactic and antiaging, refresher; it improves hair growth and texture. It cures many hair problems like dandruff. Leaves paste used to hair dyeing and nourishment, it is used as hair growth accelerator. Flower powder is used to treat skin diseases, seed oil used as fixative in cosmetics Used to treat sun burns and skin diseases, dandruff. It is used to moisturize skin and as anti-aging. It soothes, moisturizes, and regenerates skin cells. It is used to treat skin diseases and as anti-aging. Flowers are used as Hair tonic. Leaves extract is used for skin problems Anti- aging cream, sunscreen lotion, hair care products. Skin creams, lotions, perfumes, hair care products. Skin creams and cleanser, hair care products, eye makeup, soaps, lotions Creams, lotions, sunscreen lotions,

42.

Licorice liquorice Cotton

43.

44.

Spanish jasmine

45.

Juglans regia Family: Juglandaceae

Walnut

46.

Lavendula vera Family: Labiatae/lamiaceae

Lavender

47.

Lawsonia inermis Family: Lythraceae Mallotus philippensis Family: Euphorbiaceae Malus pumila Family: Rosaceae Mangifera indica Family: Anacardiaceae

Henna

Hair colors or dyes, face cleanser, scrub, soaps, powders, shampoos, conditioners. Essential oil, creams, lotions, powder, toner, shampoo, conditioners, shower gel, lip balm, deodorant, ointments. Hair colors, dyes, shampoos, oils Skin conditioners, hair fixer, ointments. Creams, lotions, Hair rinse, lip balms, shampoos, anti-aging creams Moisturizers , lotions, lip balms, soaps, Sunscreen creams, body butters, hair care products, essential oils Creams, shampoos

48.

Kamala

49.

Apple

50.

Mango

51.

Matricaria chamomile Family: Compositae/ Asteraceae

Chamomile

52.

Melaleuca alternifolia Family: Myrtaceae

Tea tree

Used to treat skin and hair problems like acne, dandruff.

Creams, lotions conditioners

53.

Mentha arvensis Family: Labiatae/ Lamiaceae

Japanese mint

Acts against pigmentation and skin diseases and has as moisturizing, cooling, antiperspirant, anti-aging properties

Creams, lotions, soaps, cleansers, whitening creams, soaps, perfumes, hair oil and shampoo

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54. Momordica charantia Family: Cucurbitaceae Nardostachys jatamansi family: Valerianceae Ocimum sanctum Family:labiatae/ lamiaceae Panax ginseng Family: Araliaceae Bitter guard, blsam pear ,karela Spikenard mask root Camphor basil Momordicosides,charantin,diosg enin,cholesterol,lanosterol, sitoserol,cucurbitacin glycosides, 5-hydroxytryptamine. Sesquiterpenoids,dnardostachone,valeranone,jjatam ansone. Camphor,pinene,limonene,terpin olene,myrcene,phellandrene,linalool,camphene, p-cymene,borneol or -selinene. Oleanolic acid, saponins, ginsenosides Rb1,Rb2,Rb3,Rc,Rd,Re,Rgl,pse udoginisenoside F11&chikusetsu saponin V Linoleic acid,fat,protein,minerals,vitamin s Vit.c, gallic acid,ascrobic acid & music acid 2-di-c-glycosylflavones of vicenin & lucenin,anthocyanincynidin 3glucoside, liteolin 7-glycoside & mono c-glycosylflavones-vitexin &orientin l-noradrenaline,dopamine,ldopa,catachol Amandin, globulin, Oleum Amygdalae, oleic, palmitin, linoleic acids. 3,4-dihydroxy benzoic,chlorogenic and vanillic acids, quecertin,quercitrin,rutin,hypero side &kaempferol,cyanidin,caffeic acid & p-coumaric acid Terpenoids,pigments-santalin A&B .Triterpenoids,acetyl oleanic aldehyde,acetyl oleinic acid,erthyrodiol Flavonoids, triterpenoids Plant extract is anti-oxidant, astringent. Root paste cures pimples and eczema. Extract of rhizome is used for hair growth Leaf extract is useful to control skin infection and rejuvenation. used as skin and hair conditioners It is used to strengthen and promote growth of hair and rejuvenates skin It used to cure skin disorders. It nourishes, moisturizes and rejuvenates skin, hydrates hair and skin. Fruit extract is anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory. Seed and pulp extract is used for hair and scalp problems Used for skin and hair care. Leaf extract to control chronic skin disorders. Hair and skin conditioners, face cleanser, ointments. Hair tonics.

55.

56.

Shampoos, ointments, oils

creams, powder,

57.

Indian ginseng, Indian pseudoginseng Avocado alligator pear butter fruit Emblic, Indian gooseberry Water lettuce, tropical duck weed

58.

Persea americana Family : Lauraceae

59.

Phyllanthus emblica Family: Euphorbiaceae Pistia stratiotes Family: Araceae

Shampoos, conditioners, lotions, anti-aging creams, bath soaps, body milks, eye makeup Creams, lotions, pomades, face mask, anti-cellulite cream, shampoos, soaps, conditioners. Skin powders and creams. shampoos ,conditioners, hair oils Anti-aging creams, hair care products, perfumes.

60.

61.

Portulaca oleraceae Family: Portulacaceae Prunus amygdalus Family: Rosaceae

Common purslane Almond

62.

63.

Prunus armeniace Family:Rosaceae

Apricot

It is used for hair growth, and to treat dandruff and skin moisturizer. It is used for moisturizing and nourishing skin. It nourishes hair and promotes growth. Kernel extract is used in sun creams Apricot kernel oil has moisturizing, nourishing and revitalizing properties. anti-kerati

Shampoos, conditioners, creams. Sunscreen lotions, Creams, lotions, face scrubs, cleanser, masks .soaps, hair care products, oils Anti-aging creams, face creams, masks, oils, lotions ,balms

64.

Pterocarpus santalinus Family: Fabaceae Rheum coreanum Family: Polygonaceae Rosa damascene Family: Rosaceae

Red sandal wood, red sanders Rhubarb

65.

It is used to treat skin problems and moisturizes, reduces wrinkles, de frizzes hair. UV absorption and free radical scavenger. Essential oil from flowers is used for protection from sun burns and skin smoothening.

66.

Damask rose

Quercetin,kaempferol,cyanidin,l ycopene,rubixathin,zeaxanthin,x anthophyll,taraxanthin.citronello l,nerol,geraniol,phenylethanol,eugenol, methyl

Perfumes, powders, lotions, shampoo, anti-aging creams, toner, masks, soaps. Creams, lotions, sunscreen lotions, soaps, lip shimmer, powders Creams , lotions, ointments

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eugenol, vitc, malic & citric acids ,flavonoids. 67. Salvia officinalis Family:Labiatae/ Lamiaceae Sage Carnosolic acid,flavonoids,diterpene quinonesroyleanone cirsiliol,linalool,&-terpineol Enhances growth and darkens hair. Treats skin problems. Anti perspirant and anti-oxidant. Essential oil, toner, bath products, shaving creams, shampoos and conditioners, face mask, anti-wrinkle creams, deodorants. Creams, lotions, ointments, powders, anti-cellulite cream.

68.

Santalum album Family: Santalaceae

White wood

sandal

69.

Sapisdas mukorossi Family: Sapinadaceae Saussurea lappa Family:Compositae/ Asteraceae Sesamum indicum Family:Pedaliaceae Terminalia bellirica Family: Combretaceae Terminalia chebula Family:combretaceae Theobroma cacao Family: Sterculiaceae Thymus serpyllum family: Labiatae/ Lamiaceae

Chinese soap berry soap nut free Kuth, costus

Stillingia oil, palmitic,oleic,ellagic,galic acids, isoquercetrin,phloroacetophenon e,2,4dimethylether,moretenone,moret enol, tri terpene. Saponis A&c sapindosine A&B, hederagenin, quercetin, kaempferol,apigenin & rutin Resinoids,euentiol oil,alkaloid saussurine,inulin,saussurea lactone Sterols,lignans,sesamin,nitrolact one,sesamolin,thiamine,niacin,ri boflavin,nicotinic acid,vit A,pyridoxine & ascorbic acid sitosterol,gallic & ellagic acids, ethyl gallate,galloyl glucose, chebulagic acid,cardiac glycoside bellaricanin. Chebulic acid, tannin and ellagic acid Methylxanthine, sulphur, magnesium, phenylethylamine, anandamide. Linalool,p-cymol, thymol, carvacol,1-8cineole,borneol,geraniol,linalool, bornyl,lenalyl acetate,thymol,methyl ether, pinene,flavonoids & caffeic acid Alkaloids, saponins, ,flavonoids, fenugreekinee.

Paste of hardwood is used in face packs. Essential oil for protection from sunburns. It is anti-oxidant. Extract of fruit coat is used as hair and body cleanser. exfoliates skin and hair Root extract is used to treat chronic skin disorders and hair dyeing. Seed extract is used for skin protection and rejuvenation. Seed oil is used as base for hair oils Seed extract and oil is used in hair dyeing preparations. It is used to treat cutaneous disorders. Seed extract is used in hair care formulations. It is highly astringent. Skin softener and conditioner, moisturizes, anti-wrinkle effect, restores flexibility Whole herb extract is used for hair tonic preparations

Shampoo, cleanser, toner, Creams. Ointments, hair dyes or colors. Creams , hair oils

70.

71.

Sesame, gingelly Belleric myrobalan, bastard myrobalan Chebulic and black myrobalan Cocoa, theobroma ,chocolate tree Mother thyme, thyme of wild

72.

Hair dyes or colors, ointments. Hair care preparations, ointments. Creams, lotions, pomades, ointments, balms. Hair care products.

73.

74.

75.

76.

Trigonella foenum graecum Family: Papilionaceae/ Fabaceae Tricum aestivum Family: Gramineae/ Poaceae Urtica dioica/ferox/thunbergiana Family: Urticaceae Withania somnifera Family: Solanaceae

Fenugreek

77.

Wheat

Lysine,tocopherols,linoleicacid, minerals,proteins & lipids Vitamins, triterpens, sterols, mineral salts, flavonoids, tannins, proteins, mucilage and linoleic acid Alkaloids-withanine,with ananine,pseudowithanine,somni ne,somniferinine.withaferin-A.

78.

Nettle

Seed extract is used as hair cleanser, improves hair growth. It has astringent and cooling properties. It is used for skin care. Leaf extract is anti-oxidant, wheat ceramides improves hydration It is used to treat skin and scalp, hair problems Whole plant extract is used for skin cleansing and antioxidant

Shampoos, hair colors and hair care products, cleansers, toners, creams. Creams, lotions, skin moisturizer. Anti-dandruff shampoos, ointments, extract. Skin cleanser.

79.

Winter cherry

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80. Zea mays Family: Gramineae poaceae Maize, corn, Indian corn Saponins,alantoin,sterols,sitosterol & stigmasterol,alkaloidhordenine,polyphenols,vit c & k, cryptox anthin & anthocyanins. Stigma extract is used for skin rejuvenating Creams, lotions.

HERBAL PLANTS WITH COSMETIC USES ALMOND SCIENTIFIC CLASSIFICATION Binomial name : Kingdom : Order : Family : Genus : Species : Synonyms : Prunus dulcis (P. Mill) D.A. Webb Plantae Rosales Rosaceae Prunus P.dulcis Amygdalus communis L., Prunus Batsch, Prunus amygdalus communis (L.) Arcang. PICTURES

BIOLOGICAL DESCRIPTION Almonds are known to be the king of nuts. The fruit of the almond is not a true nut, but a drupe, consisting of an outer hull and a hard shell with the seed ("nut") inside [15]. Morphology The almond is a small deciduous tree, with height of 4-10 m. The flowers are white or pale pink, 35 cm diameter with five petals. Chemical Constituents Almonds contain approximately 49% oils, of which 62% is monounsaturated oleic acid (an omega-9 fatty acid), 24% is linoleic acid (a polyunsaturated omega-6 essential fatty acid), and 6% is palmitic acid (a saturated fatty acid)[19] and the "Oleum Amygdalae", the fixed oil, prepared from either variety of almond and is a glyceryl oleate, with a slight odor and a nutty taste[15]. The other main fatty acids contained in sweet almond oil are: myristic, palmitoleic, heptadecenoic, 9-heptadecenoic, stearic, linolenic, arachidic, eicosenoic[18]. Cosmetic Uses Almond oil is popular as base oil for massages because it's hypoallergenic and can be used on sensitive skin. It is good softener as well as gives a healthy radiant glow [25]. It is Nourishing because almonds are a powerhouse of antioxidants, almond oil contains these beneficial nutrients that work to protect skin from environmental damage and boost the natural repair mechanisms in skin. Almond oil contains essential fatty acids that work to balance the skin's moisture levels by creating a barrier, limiting moisture loss and restoring the skin's natural protective cells while allowing the skin to absorb moisture[26]. Almond oil when applied for hair it nourishes and softens hair cuticles and makes hair long, strong and thick. Massaging with almond oil adds shine to the hair and controls hair fall[28]. Formulations/Products Rejuvenating Face Wash, Purifying Face Mask, Cellumend Anti-Cellulite Cream ,soaps, creams and moisturizer, foot cream, cleanser, massage oil, hair care products, bath oils, lipstick, skin cleansing products, moisturizers, night skin care products and sunscreen products .facial scrub, facial mask, essential oil, almond milk concentrate, almond shower gel, almond supple skin oil, almond tonic body oil, sweet almond eco-refill liquid soap, shower oil, almond essential oil.

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JOJOBA SCIENTIFIC CLASSIFICATION Binomial Simmondsia name: chinensis Kingdom: Plantae Order: Caryophyllales Family: Simmondsiaceae Genus: Simmondsia Species: S. chinensis Synonyms: Wild hazel, quinine nut, coffee berry, and gray box bush

PICTURES

Botanical Description The word "jojoba" refers both to the desert plant and to the extract obtained from its seed. Jojoba is a small tree like perennial woody, evergreen shrub and grows to 1-2m tall with a broad dense crown.[29] Morphology The fruit is an acorn-shaped ovoid and 3-angled capsule 1-2cm long. The seed is hard oval, dark brown in color and contains oil. The jojoba leaves are opposite, oval in shape 2-4 cm long and 1.5-3cm broad, thick waxy glaucous gray-green in color. Jojoba flowers are small, greenish yellow with 5-6 sepals and no petals[33] . Chemical constituents Chemical constituents of jojoba oil bear striking similarity with human sebum. So plays crucial part in cosmetics and beauty care industry. It can be used in the form of derivatives such as jojoba esters, isopropyl jojobate, jojoba alcohol (eicosanol, docosanol, hexocosanol). Jojoba seed contain 3% moisture, 15% protein, 42-58% liquid wax esters, 5-7% simmondsin, , , , tocopherols (50ppm). Jojoba contains straight-chained c20 and c22 fatty acids and two unsaturated bonds. Jojoba oil contains nutrients, phospholipids, vitamin E, B complex and minerals silicon, chromium, copper ,zinc and iodine. It also includes palmitic, palmitoleic, oleic(10-13%), linoleic, linolenic, arachidic, eicosenoic(66-71%), behenic, erucic, docosenoic(14-20%), lignoceric, nervonic fatty acids. Oil is a mixture of wax esters 36-46 C atoms in length. Each molecule consists of fatty acids and fatty alcohols joined by ester bond. 98% fatty acids are unsaturated at omega-9[35]. Cosmetic Uses For skin Jojoba oil when applied to the skin of any type balances the internal constituents of sebum. It is therefore an excellent moisturizer for all kinds of skins. It has skin penetration, emolliency and softening, rejuvenating properties. It has ability to minimize fine lines, skin marks, scars wrinkles on face and neck and promotes suppleness [36]. It forms a non-greasy, non-tacky layer with exceptional trans-epidermal water control thereby prevents dehydration of skin and excessive water loss and keep the skin plump and healthy. It cleans clogged pores and restores skins natural pH balance. It acts as an effective cleanser, antioxidant, hypoallergenic. Antibacterial properties make it useful for treatment of acne, pimples and blackheads [37]. For hair Jojoba is good hair conditioner and provides excellent scalp treatment. It protects the hair against ill effects of dandruff, split ends, and dry hair. It provides strength to hair roots and promotes thickness and lustrous hair. It prevents hair fall and makes hair shiny and glossy. It is moisturizing to improve texture and manageability. Keratoplastic effect that leaves hair shimmering and brings out hairs natural color overtones and brilliance[35]. Formulations/ Products Jojoba- Cleansing oil, facial moisturizer, lip conditioner, cuticle oil, body oil, eye makeup remover, cleanser for facial makeup, night cream, soaps, day cream(sensitive and multi active), face scrub, face mask, eye cream, shampoo. Defatted jojoba meal - mechanical exfoliant in cosmetic scrub or peeling products. Hydrogenated jojoba oil- lipsticks, mascara, eyeliner, lipbalm. Golden quality jojoba oil- pigmented and fragranced cosmetic formulations. Jojoba alcohol-it is water resistant, emollient-cosmetic formulations. Jojoba wax- lipsticks, skincare lotions, bath bead preparations, peeling products, skin exfoliants, sunscreens, hair conditioners and serum, cleansers, toners.

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LAVENDER SCIENTIFIC CLASSIFICATION Binomial name: Lavendula augustfolia Kingdom: miller Order: Plantae Family: Lamiales Genus: Lamiaceae Species: Lavandula L.augustfolia, L.officinalis, L.spica(39 species)

PICTURES

Biological Description Lavender is an evergreen perennial woody shrub of about 1 m height. With gray-green narrow linear leaves and blunt spikes of purple-blue flowers. The whole plant is highly aromatic[38]. Morphology Lavender flowers: Flowers may be blue, violet or lilac and are borne in whorls, held on spikes rising above the foliage[40]. Chemical constituents Over 150 different constituents among them main ones are linalool(20-46%) and terpene esters : linalyl acetate(36-51%), it is these which give lavender its light, sweetish.[38] The best known active component in lavender are geraniol, terpenoid oxides:1-8 cineole(0.2-2.2%) and coumarin which has cleansing and germicidal effect[43]. The main chemical constituents of True Lavender are Esters (45%), Alcohols (36%) and Ketones (4%)[42]. Volatile oil containing over 40 constituents, including linyalyl acetate, cineole, linalool, nerol, borneol, Flavonoids, Tannis[44]. The main chemical components of lavender oil are a-pinene, limonene, monoterpenes : cis-ocimene, trans-ocimene(2.5-7.6%), ketones:3-octanone, lavendulyl acetate(3.4-6.2%), sesquiterpenes: caryophyllene, monoterenols:terpinen-4-ol(2.7-6.9%).[45][50] Cosmetic Uses For skin It has antiseptic, antibacterial, anti-toxic, anti-inflammatory, bactericide, cicatrizant, rubefacient, restorative, vulnerary and tonic therapeutic effects on the skin. Its cytophylactic properties (encouraging the growth of new skin cells) stimulate the growth of new skin cells, which is a boon for any anti-aging skin care product [45]. For hair Lavender oil, one of the best aromatherapy oils known to be very effective in controlling hair fall and it also enhances blood circulation; hence a scalp massage will definitely help improve hair growth and hair texture. Formulations/Products Hand wash ,body cream, massage oil, foaming bath, body lotion, shower gel, perfume, bath salts, lavender water, lavender essential oil, lavender soap, lavender dew, talcum powder, bath oil, deodorant, face mist, night cream, day cream, eye cream, facial scrub, foot rejuvenator, face mask, cleansing cream, facial steams, anti-aging cream, face wash gel, shampoo and conditioner, lip balm, skin moisturizing day gel, spot treatment cream, antiseptic ointments, hair rinses, salves, sachets, toner, facial steams.[8][1][9] LUCUMA SCIENTIFIC CLASSIFICATION Binomial name: Pouteria lucuma (Ruiz & Pav.) Kuntze Kingdom: Plantae Order: Ericales Family: Sapotaceae Genus: Pouteria Species: P. lucuma Synonyms: Lucuma obovata, Pouteria obavata, lucumo.

PICTURES

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Biological Description Lucuma is a perennial subtropical Peruvian fruit species. The fruit was first seen and reported by Europeans in the Chinchasuyu region of the Inca Empire in 1531[51]. It is also called "eggfruit" in English[52]. Morphology Lucuma is a vigorous, evergreen tree about 8-15 m tall; the fruit is fleshy, green, approx. 4-10 cm in diameter, with bright yellow pulp and distinctive flavor. The crown is dense, rounded, and profusely branched, from 6 m to 10 m in diameter. The young branchlets have dark- or light-brown velvety hairs and copious milky latex. Chemical Constituents Lucuma seed extract (LSE) is rich in bioactive fatty acids (FAs), Ascorbic acid, beta carotene, betulinic acid, calcium, and methionine. Bioactives : LSE contains a unique combination of natural free fatty acids (FAs), 99.7% of which correspond to linoleic acid (38.9%), oleic acid (27.9%), palmitic acid (18.6%), stearic acid (8.9%), -linolenic acid (2.9%) and other 16 minor FAs. It was observed that LSE induced cell migration and cytoskeleton remodeling in human fibroblasts and inhibited LPS-induced nitric oxide production in macrophages [54] . Cosmetic Uses The oil of lucuma seed basically has three effects, it increases the re-growth of endothelial cells; fibroblast migration, and tissue regeneration, and also displays anti-inflammatory effect. This is important since wound closure and skins wrinkling are both intimately related to the migration of specific cells in our skin called fibroblasts, the extract from the seed of Pouteria lucuma can help increase the expression of elastin. The lack of elastin, or the decrease in elastin fibres, is one of the main reasons for wrinkles to occur [55]. It is novel and efficacious cosmetic ingredient capable of antibacterial, anti-acne, anti- oxidant, anti-allergic and skin-repair effects on human skin. Anti-aging: LSE also significantly increased elastin at protein and mRNA levels. LSE also prevented aberrant nuclei phenotype in our model of cellular senescence [54]. Formulations / Products Anti-aging creams, wound healing ointments and lotions. SAGE SCIENTIFIC CLASSIFICATION Binomial name: Salvia officinalis Kingdom: Plantae Order: Lamiales Family: Lamiaceae Genus: Salvia Species: S.officinalis, S.folium Sage, sage extract, salbei. Synonyms: PICUTURES

Biological Description Sage is a decorative evergreen perennial shrub, camphor scented and attractive purple-blue flowers arranged in spirals and bloom in august[56]. Morphology It is an aromatic, sun-loving plant with mauvish flower. It is a shrublet with square stems bearing opposite pairs of grey, rough-textured leaves. It is 2 ft tall and wide, the leaves are oblong, ranging in size up to 2.5 in long by 1 in wide. Leaves are grey-green, rugose on the upper side, and nearly white underneath due to the many short soft hairs[58]. Chemical Constituents Sage oil contains Camphor (20.73-26.07%), -caryophyllene (2.28- 9.19%). Borneol, -thujone (13.84-21.96), 1,8-cineole (13.94-20.40%), -thujone (7.07-9.34%) have antiradical activity[59], phenolic acid such as rosmarinic acid, diterpenoids (carnosol and rosmanol), triterpenes (oleanic acid and its derivatives) and luteolin-7glucoside[56]. Sage leaf contains tannic acid, oleic acid, ursonic acid, ursolic acid, cornsole, cornsolic acid, fumaric acid, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, niacin, nicotinamide, flavones, flavonoid glycosides, and estrogenic substances[60]. Cosmetic Uses For Hair: Leaves can be strewn in bathwater and in rinse water to enhance dark hair. Sage extract is used in Hesol Rim Jean-Aeck, a type of oil protects the growth period of hair from shortening through Cell differentiation control generated by DHP, catalyzes the growth of new hair, extends the growth period of the existing hair, so, it is excellent at growing hair and preventing fall-out hair.

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For skin: Sage is a superb antiseptic, anti-microbial, anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, astringent and has healing properties. Formulations/Products Sage essential oil, rejuvenating toner, bath gels, foam bath, bath products, shaving creams, fragrance products, cleansing products, lotions and shampoos for greasy hair, serums for face and eye, face mask, anti-wrinkle cream, essential oil, toner, antiseptic creams, deodorants.

RASPBERRY SCIENTIFIC CLASSIFICATION Binomial name: Rubus idaeus Kingdom: Plantae Order: Rosales Family: Rosaceae Genus: Rubus Species: R.idaeus Synonyms: Raspberry, gray leaf PICTURES

Biological Description The raspberry is the perennial edible fruit of a multitude of plant species [61].American red raspberry is a native, deciduous shrub [62]. Red raspberry and black raspberry are cosmetically used for maintaining healthy skin and hair. Morphology Raspberry Seed Oil is a yellowish oil or bright gold to reddish color, typical in taste and smell [64]. Raspberry grows up to 1.5 meters high with biennial stems. The leaves are pinnately compound, with three to five leaflets. Chemical Constituents Recent studies of red raspberry seeds by Canadian researchers (Oomah et al, 2000) show that the most abundant fatty acids found in raspberry oil were linoleic (54.2%), omega-3 alpha linolenic(29.7%) and oleic acids(11%). In addition to abundant polyunsaturated fatty acids(81-85%), red raspberry seed oil may also be a very rich source of alpha and gamma tocopherol(Vitamin E), Carotenoids(Vitamin-A)as well as y-tocopherol (Oomah et al, 2000), tocotrienols and minerals[66][67]. Cosmetic Uses The oil is highly moisturizing and emollient absorbs rapidly into the skin and the presence of vitamin E has a well-known function in skin repair and conditioning. The oil also offers the skin broad spectrum protection from damaging UV-A and UV-B rays. It has strong antioxidant properties. Raspberry seed oil can be used for sensitive/dry skin. It prevents rashes, acne and it has nourishing, protective, soothing and healing properties [64]. Red raspberry seed oil has very potent activity in inhibiting Cox-2 enzymes and can be used both topically and taken internally for inhibition of inflammation. Black Raspberry Seed Oil supports a healthy immune system and has anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties[68]. Formulations Salves, anhydrous formulations, scar ointments, burn relief creams, soaps, cleansers. Cosmetics (body lotions/creams, scrub ,anti-ageing creams, eye creams, sunscreen lotions, lip products, bath oil, hair care products-Shampoo, sun care formulations, tooth paste and massage oils) and Nutricosmetics. SHEA BUTTER SCIENTIFIC CLASSIFICATION Binomial name: Butyrospermum parkii Kingdom: Plantae Order: Ericales Family: Sapotaceae Genus: Butyrospermum Species: B.parkii, B.paradoxa,

PICTURES

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Synonyms:

Vitellaria paradoxa Shea tree, vitellaria/karate

Biological Description The Shea tree is perennial. The Shea fruit is ellipsoidal berry consists of a thin, tart, nutritious pulp that surrounds a relatively large, oil-rich seed from which Shea butter is extracted[70]. Shea butter is a slightly yellowish or ivorycolored natural fat extracted from the fruits and the resulting oil is refined in several steps in order to improve flavor, color and oxidative stability[71]. Morphology Shea nut trees grow 15 to 20 m high. The shea fruit is a 4-8 cm and greenish-yellow in color, containing the hardshelled seed (nut) enclosing a soft kernel with oil content of 40-60%. This one contains the fatty material (butter). 15 to 20 kg of fruit yields 3 to 4 kg of dry almonds, which eventually yields 1.5 kg to 2 kg of butter[73]. Chemical Constituents Native shea butter is complex fat consists mainly of triglycerides and a large fraction of unsaponifiable materials (2-11%) (cinnamic acid esters of triterpene alcohols, kariten and sterols), oleic (40-60%), stearic (20-50%) and linoleic (3-11%) acids. The most characteristic triterpene alcohol of shea butter is butyrospermol and lupeol, /amyrin. Shea butter also contains provitamin A, allantoin, tocopherols (Vitamin E) functioning as antioxidants. Cosmetic Uses Shea butter is used in skin aging treatment, protecting and regenerating skin. It has moisturizing, emollient and anti-inflammatory properties. It is used to soothe irritated and chapped skin, improve the release of polar active ingredients, prevent wrinkle formation, and protect skin against climate and UV aggressions. It also protects from fading scars, burns, rashes, dark spots, skin discolorations, stretch marks, blemishes[77][72]. Shea Butter can be formulated into capillary preparations to prevent and treat scalp dryness, and provide good lubrication for the hair, resulting in improved brilliance and manageability. It is the effective natural additive for your skin and hair care products[78]. Shea butter revitalizes, repairs, prevents breakage and restores hydro-lipid balance[73]. Formulations Skin care creams, bases for butters, lip sticks and lip balms, topical ointments, after sun products and sun care creams, hand and body lotions, shaving and depilatory preparations, glamour cosmetics(hydrophobic), bath oil, facial moisturizer, anti-acne creams, liniments, rubs, first aid creams, soaps, hair conditioners, emulsions, hair mask, Day Cream Multi-Active, Night Cream Multi-Active, Cream Egalisante, Body Butter, winter sports cream, shampoos, make up remover formulations, compact/liquid make up., after shave creams, anti-aging creams, massage oils, hand and body wash, shower gels, facial wash SANDAL WOOD SCIENTIFIC CLASSIFICATION Binomial name: Pterocarpus santalinus Plantae Kingdom: Fabales Order: Fabaceae Family: Genus: Pterocarpus Species: P.santalinus Synonyms: Pterocarpi Lignum, Santalum rubrum, Lignum rubrum, Rubywood, Rasura Santalum Ligni. PICTURES

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Biological Description Sandal wood tree is 20 to 25 feet high, covered with rough bark resembling that of the Common Alder, and bearing spikes of yellow flowers[79]. Sandalwood is the name of a class of fragrant woods Morphology It is a light-demanding fast growing small tree growing to 8 m tall with a trunk 50150 cm diameter even on degraded soils. It is not frost tolerant, being killed by temperatures of 1 C. The leaves are alternate, 39 cm long, trifoliate with three leaflets. The flowers are produced in short racemes. The fruit is a pod 69 cm long containing one or two seeds. Chemical Constituents The coloring principle, called Santalin, is readily soluble in alcohol, partially soluble in essential but almost insoluble in water. Ether, alkalis, and three other crystalline principles have also been described as being present: Santal, Pterocarpin, and Homopterocarpin. A small quantity of tannin (Kino-tannic acid) is found in the wood[79]. Sandalwood essential oil mainly consists of component -santalol (~90%) which has antimicrobial properties[80]. Cosmetic Uses The skin moistened with powder of Red Sandalwood will send forth a delicate fragrance and will be felt very smoothly. Being rubbed, the powder of Red Sandalwood will produce wood oxygen. Wood oxygen can soothe nerves and activate brain and hasten the reproduction of cells and prevent wrinkles with long-term use of the powder of Rose Sandalwood[83]. Sandalwood powder used on skin for healing different skin disorders. It helps in giving clear and clean skin tone. Sandalwood powder helps in maintaining a flawless complexion by removing blackheads and acne, oily skin, pimples. Yellow sandalwood powder is used for reducing the wrinkles present on skin. This powder is also used for the removal of tan caused due to ultraviolet rays of sun[84]. Sandalwood essential oil is skin (external) antiseptic. It is used in aromatherapy. Sandalwood oil should never be applied to the skin without being diluted in carrier oil due to its strength. It provides perfumes with a striking wood base note. Sandalwood smells like wood scents and it has a bright and fresh edge with few natural analogues. When used in smaller proportions in a perfume, it is an excellent fixative to enhance the head space of other fragrances[80]. Sandalwood oil has curl relaxing, de-frizzing, and moisturizing properties so used for hair. Formulations/Products Red sandal wood lotion, toner, facial cream, message oil, essential oil, anti-aging cream, facial mask, hair rinse, shampoo, curl relaxer, soaps, perfume, acne skin care products, sandal wood paste, powder. PEACH SCIENTIFIC CLASSIFICATION Prunus persica Binomial name: Plantae Kingdom: Magnoliophyta Division: Magnoliopsida Class: Rosales Order: Rosaceae Family: Prunus Genus: P.persica Species: Amygdalin, Persica Synonyms: vulgaris, vitamin B17, Amygdalus persica PICTURES

Biological Description A peach is either whitish or yellowish in color, combined with a red color or blush, depending on the variety [87]. The peach tree can grow up to twenty feet in height, but is usually much smaller [86]. Morphology The leaves are lanceolate, 716 cm long (36 in), 23 cm broad, pinnately veined. The flowers are produced in early spring before the leaves; they are solitary or paired, 2.53 cm diameter, pink, with five petals[90]. Chemical Constituents Peach Tree Leaf has demulcent, sedative, diuretic, and expectorant properties [86]. Peach fruit is rich in vitamin A. Peach kernel contains beneficial A, B, and E vitamins. A peach (edible part) has carbohydrates, sugars, fiber, vitamin A & C, iron and potassium[91].

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Cosmetic Uses For skin Peaches are rich sources of skin-renewing alpha-hydroxy fruit acids which help to slough off dead cells, and vitamins A and C to nourish new ones, all of which help skin to look more vital, youthfully dewy complexion. Peach juice unclogs pores, tightens sagging skin, banishes blemishes, lightens age spots, and reduces wrinkles, giving skin a fresher and more vital appearance [89]. Peach kernel is utilized for various cosmetic applications. Peach kernel is commonly utilized in facial massage oils as it easily gets absorbed by the skin. [85]. Peach used to moisturize whole body, but best for oily skin types and nourishes, Hydrates and good for all skin types[89]. For Hair Peach leaf extract and peach juice extract gives moisturized, manageable hair [92]. Peach is used in many shampoo and conditioners. It is also used for aromatherapy. Formulations/Products Hand wash, body wash, body moisturizer; make up face crmes, perfumes, anti-aging cream. Toner, face packs, delicate skin mask, peach firming mask, nourishing, hydrating, soothing mask, shampoos, conditioners, rinses[89]. REFERENCES 1. Pandey Shivanand*,Meshya Nilam, D.Viral, Herbs Play an Important Role in the Field of Cosmetics, International Journal of PharmTech Research, Vol.2, No.1, Jan-Mar 2010, pp. 632-639 2. V P Kapoor, Herbal cosmetics for skin and hair care, Indian Journal of Natural Products and Resources (IJNPR)[Formerly Natural Product Radiance (NPR)] , Vol 4(4), JulyAugust 2005, pp. 306-314 3. Draelos ZD, 2003a, Botanical antioxidants, Cosmetic Dermatol, 2003, 16(10), 41-42 4. Glaser DA, Anti-ageing products and cosmeceuticals. Facial Plast Surg, Clin N Am, 2004, 12, 363-372 5. Draelos ZD, 2003b, Topical Antiinflammatory agents, Cosmetic Dermatol, 2003, 16(10), 41-42 6. Rousseaux CG and Schachter H, Regulatory issues concerning the safety, efficacy and quality of herbal remedies. Birth Defects Res. B, Dev Reprod Toxicol, 2003, 68 (6), 505-510 7. Prashant L Kole, Hemant R Jadhav, Prasad Thakurdesai and Anantha Naik Nagappa*, cosmetics potential of herbal extracts, Indian Journal of Natural Products and Resources (IJNPR)[Formerly Natural Product Radiance (NPR)] , Vol 4(4), JulyAugust 2005, pp. 315-321 8. Cosmetics , available from : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosmetic s 9. Harry RG, In: Modern Cosmeticology, Volume 1(revision Eds. JB Wilkinson, R Clark, E Green and TP McLaughlin), 1962, Leonard Hill [books] Limited, London. 10. Drugs act Commercials, Manual on Drugs and Cosmetics, 2004, Second Edition, Published by Commercial Law Publishers (India) Pvt. Ltd., Delhi, and page 2. 11. European Commission, directive 93/35 EEC. Official Journal of the European Commission-l series, 151, 1993 12. Ko, Adulterants in Asian Patent Medicines 339, New Eng. J Med, Sept. 17, 1998 (Letter to the Editor) 13. Dr D.K.Chaudhuri, ScF&H, PCD1 June 2006. 14. Sweet almond, available from : http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredie nt_details.php?ingredient_id=403 15. Almond, available from : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Almond 16. Sathe SK, Wolf WJ, Roux KH, Teuber SS, Venkatachalam M, Sze-Tao KW. Biochemical characterization of amandin, the major storage protein in almond ( Prunus dulcis L.). J Agric Food Chem . 2002;50:4333-4341. 17. Almond oil, available from: http://www.dermaxime.com/almondoil.htm 18. PLANTS Database . United States Department of Agriculture. Natural Resources Conservation Service. Prunus dulcis (P. Mill.) D.A. Webb sweet almond. Available at:http://plants.usda.gov/java/namesea rch . Accessed May 8, 2006. 19. Search the USDA National Nutrient Database for Standard Reference under "Nuts, almonds". Agricultural Research Service, United States Department of Agriculture. 20. Frison S, Sporns P. Variation in the flavonol glycoside composition of almond seedcoats as determined by

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maldi-tof mass spectrometry. J Agric Food Chem . 2002;50:6818-6822. Wijeratne SS, Abou-Zaid MM, Shahidi F. Antioxidant polyphenols in almond and its coproducts. J Agric Food Chem . 2006;54:312-318. Sang S, Lapsley K, Rosen RT, Ho CT. New prenylated benzoic acid and other constituents from almond hulls ( Prunus amygdalus Batsch). J Agric Food Chem . 2002;50:607-609. Dicenta F, Martinez-Gomez P, Grane N, et al. Relationship between cyanogenic compounds in kernels, leaves, and roots of sweet and bitter kernelled almonds. J Agric Food Chem . 2002;50:2149-2152. Almond , available from: herbs.ygoy.com Almond oil cosmetic uses, available from: http://www.ehow.com/list_5745044_b eauty-benefits-almond-oil.html Benefits of almond oil as moisturizer, available from : http://www.ehow.com/facts_6177371 _benefits-using-almond-oilmoisturizer_.html Uses of almond oil, available from: http://www.beauty-cosmeticguide.com/Use-Almond-Oil-forAging.html Benefits of almond oil, available from: http://www.indiaparenting.com/health/ 324_3379/benefits-of-almond-oil.html Jojoba, available from: http://www.gits4u.com/agri/agri5jojob a.htm Uses of Jojoba oil, available from: http://www.buzzle.com/articles/usesof-jojoba-oil-jojoba-oil-benefits.html Jojoba oil, available from: http://www.jojobaoil.in/index.html Steven J. Phillips, Patricia Wentworth Comus (eds.) (2000). A Natural History of the Sonoran Desert. University of California Press. pp. 256257. ISBN 0-520-219805. Jojoba, available from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jojoba Uses of jojoba oil, available from: http://www.livestrong.com/article/964 39-uses-jojoba-oil/ Benefits of jojoba, available from: http://benefitof.net/benefits-of-jojoba/ Jojoba, available from: http://www.dermaxime.com/jojoba.ht m 37. Jojoba oil, available from: http://www.targetwoman.com/articles/ jojoba-oil.html. 38. avender, available from: http://www.sniffingmoose.co.uk/page 10.html 39. rs. M. Grieve, A Modern Herbal, Vol. II (New York: Dover Publications, Inc., 1971; ISBN 0-486-22799-5) 40. L. H. Bailey. Manual of Cultivated Plants, available from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lavender 41. ssential oils, available from : http://www.essentialoils.co.za/essentia l-oils/lavender.htm 42. ttp://www.enchantedspirit.org/Health/ 96.php 43. avender, available from: http://pharmaceuticals.indiabizclub.co m/catalog/248508~lavender+oil,+lave nder+flowers~new+delhi 44. avender oil, available from: http://www.naturalcosmeticsupplies.c om/lavender-oil.html 45. avender, available from: http://www.dermaxime.com/lavender. htm 46. ses of lavender oil, available from: http://www.buzzle.com/articles/lavend er-oil-for-hair-growth.html 47. he uses and benefits of lavender oil, available from: http://hubpages.com/hub/The-Usesand-Benefits-of-Lavender-EssentialOil 48. avender , http://www.copperwiki.org/index.php? title=Lavender 49. ugust 2006 issue of Dr. Alexander Grants Health Gazette 50. rashar, I. C. Locke, C. S. Evans (2004). Cytotoxicity of lavender oil and its major components to human skin cells. Cell Proliferation 37 (3), 2004, pp. 221229.

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51. Lesser-known and under-utilised plant resources Ameenah Gurib-Fakim 2005 - Page 59 52. Pouteria lucuma, available from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pouteria_l ucuma 53. Lucuma uses, available from : http://www.familycontent.com/health/herbs/lucuma 54. Leonel E. Rojo1, Caren Villano1, Vladimir Shulaev2, Nava Dayan4, Mary Ann Lila3, Ilya Raskin1, antiaging and wound healing properties of pouteria lucuma seed extract, available from: http://www.lipochemicals.com/files/5 758_WOUND_HEAL_ANTIAGING _PROP.pdf 55. Cosmetic uses of lucuma fruit, available from: http://www.cosmeticsdesign.com/For mulation-Science/Lucuma-fruit-hasanti-aging-and-wound-healingpotential 56. Sage (Salvia officinalis) to help prevent premature skin aging, available from: http://www.dermaxime.com/sage.htm 57. Sage, available from: http://www.gardenguides.com/484sage-salvia-officinalis.html 58. Herbs with cosmetic application, available from: http://www.iibc.com/herbs-cosmeticapplications/ 59. H. Baydar, G. zkan, S. Erba, D. Altndal, yield, chemical composition and antioxidant properties of extracts and essential oils of sage and rosemary depending on seasonal variations, available from: http://www.actahort.org/members/sho wpdf?booknrarnr=826_54 60. Salvia officinalis, available from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salvia_of ficinalis 61. Raspberry, available from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raspberry 62. American red raspberry, available from: http://plants.usda.gov/plantguide/pdf/c s_ruid.pdf. 63. Red raspberry seed oil, available from: http://www.lotioncrafter.com/redraspberry-seed-oil.html 64. Raspberry seed oil, available from: http://www.connoils.com/Literature/P S%20info%20FRUITmega%20Raspb erry%20Seed%20Oil.pdf 65. Granstrom, A, Seed viability in fourteen species during five years of storage in forest soil, J. Ecology 75, 1987, pp. :321-331.CFRU REPORT Oomah, D., Ladet, S., & Godfrey, D. (2000) Characteristics of raspberry (Rubus idaeus L.) seed oil, Food Chemistry, 69, 187-193 Raspberry seed oil, available from: http://www.botanicoil.com/datasheets/ red%20raspberry%20seed%20oil.pdf Prduct catalog, available from: http://www.botanicoil.com/products/p dfs/boi-catalog-online.pdf Red raspberry, available from: http://www.herbalextractsplus.com/re d-raspberry.cfm Shea tree, available from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shea_tree Jari Alander & Ann-Charlotte Andersson, The shea butter family the complete emollient range for skin care formulations, cosmetics and toiletries manufacture worldwide, pp.28-32, available from: http://www.sheabuttermarket.com/doc uments/KARLSHAMNS.pdf Shea butter, available from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shea_butt er Shea butter, available from: http://sophimsheabutter.com/sheabutter.html Jari Alander, Shea butter with improved moisturisation properties, butters, personal care, September 2009, pp.1-3. Davrieux, F., Allal, F., Piombo, G., Kelly, B., Okulo, J.B., Thiam, M., Diallo, O.B. & Bouvet, Near Infrared Spectroscopy for High-Throughput Characterization of Shea Tree (Vitellaria paradoxa) Nut Fat Profiles. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, J.-M. (2010) , 58, 78117819 Dan Acquaye, Marianna Smith, Wudeneh Letchamo, Paul Angers and Jim Simon, shea butter, agribusiness in sustainable natural African plant products, available from: http://www.pfidnp.org/crop_specs/She abutter.pdf M. Pobeda and L. Sousselier, shea butter the revival of an African wonder, GCI April 1999, pp.1-5. Shea butter, available from: http://www.makeupusa.com/vocabulary.htm

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79. Saunders, red, available from: http://www.botanical.com/botanical/m gmh/s/saunde22.html 80. Sandal wood, available from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandalwo od 81. Pterocarpus santalinus, available from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pterocarp us_santalinus 82. Natural beauty tips with red sandal wood, available rom: http://www.livestrong.com/article/147 309-natural-beauty-tips-with-redsandalwood/ 83. Valuable than Gold, the Mystical Red Sandalwood for Beauty and Medical Treatment, available from: http://www.ecplaza.net/tradeleads/sell er/5373739/valuable_than_gold_the.ht ml 84. Sandal wood powder for skin, available from: http://www.buzzle.com/articles/sandal wood-powder-for-skin.html 85. what is peach kernel, available from: http://www.wisegeek.com/what-ispeach-kernel.htm 86. peach herb-uses and side effects, available from: http://www.besthomeremedies.com/herbal_medicine/herbs/ peach.htm 87. peach, available from: http://www.health-careclinic.org/fruits/peach.html 88. peach, available from: http://india4indians.com/health/2009/1 2/31/peach-what-is-peach-fruit-whatare-the-health-benefits-of-peach-usesof-peach-fruit-and-its-juicenutritional-value-of-peach-fruit/ 89. peach beauty benefits, available from: http://www.care2.com/greenliving/pea ches-kitchen-cupboard-beauty.html 90. peach for hair, available from: http://www.truerenu.com/tr/shop/gttruerenus-best-brands/kracie-exkanebo/naive-peach-hair-shampoo-550ml-4084.asp

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