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While the principles of electric theory are the same whether on shore or afloat, the conductors and the methods of conductor installation...differ considerably from those used shoreside.

Marine AC: Electrical Wiring Basics

by Scoff Hen y If your boat can accommodate most household electrically-powered conveniences, it undoubtedly has two entirely separate electrical systems. The direct current (DC) electrical system derives its power from your boats storage battery or batteries. In addition to providing starting power for the engine, DC electrical power is used for bilge pumps, running lights, the water pressure pump, DC lighting and other related equipment. The source of power for your boats alternating current (AC) electrical system is either a shoreside connection or an on-board AC electrical generator. This system provides electricity for appliances and fixed AC electrical equipment aboard the boat. While the principles of electric theory are the same whether on shore or afloat, the conductors and the methods of conductor installation, as well as many of the appliances and AC electrical equipment used aboard boats, differ considerably from those used shoreside. Because of color coding and polarity requirements, working with your boats AC electrical system is really not complicated. A grounding conductor, or ground wire, in an AC system is always green. The neutral wire or grounded conductor is white. The ungrounded conductor, or hot wire, is identified by any color other than green or white and is usually black or red. ABYC (American Boat and Yacht Council) standards require that marine AC electrical systems be polarized. A polarized system is one in which the hot and neutral wires are connected in the same relation to all terminals on all devices in the circuit. For example, receptacles are connected so that the neutral wire attaches to the terminal identified by the letter s, normally a silver color. The hot wire should be attached to the brass or copper terminal. The green colored grounding wire is to be attached to the ground terminal on the receptacle. This procedure insures that the proper polarity is maintained and that the electricity will flow safely, without restriction, through each circuit. Terminal screws are usually color coded for easy identification. In all marine electrical applications, avoiding the entrance or accumulation of moisture is of prime importance. Junction boxes, receptacles, panelboards and other enclosures in which electrical connections are made should be weatherproof or installed in a protected location. All currentcarrying conductors should be routed as far away as practical from areas where water or moisture may accumulate. The conductors used in marine applications must be made of stranded copper wire. The black, white and green ground conductor in each cable or cord must each be of the stranded wire variety. Household conductors, on the other hand, have a single, solid core wire. The number of strands required in each conductor in marine applications is directly related to the conductors diameter and the degree to which the wire will be subjected to flexing through movement or vibration. The conductors proper size and diameter is also determined by the demand or amount of current the conductor must carry. Good household wiring often travels through the house in metallic tubing called conduit. The conduit supports and protects the wires within the walls and ceiling of your home. But on your boat, conductors are supported throughout their length by a self-draining loom or are secured every eighteen inches by straps or clamps. In areas other than the machinery compartments of your boat, nonmetallic straps or clamps are ideal for holding conductors firmly in place. Metal clamps lined with an insulating material to minimize damage from chafing are used in machinery areas. Another major difference between household wiring and the AC electrical wiring aboard your boat occurs when two conductors or wires are joined together, or a conductor is connected to a terminal on an appliance, receptacle or circuit breaker. A common practice in household wiring is to splice wire to wire by means of electrical tape or wire nuts. Wire nuts or twist-on connectors have no place aboard a boat. Joining conductor to conductor in marine appli-

cations is best accomplished through the use of insulated, solderless crimp-on connectors. The crimp-on connection may be covered with electrical tape, but under no circumstances should electrical tape be used to join two conductors together. Besides assuring continuity of current, crimp-on connectors prevent the conductors from being pulled apart when flexed. Working with a boats electrical system is something many boat owners refuse to do because they consider it mysterious. More than any other system on your boat, the AC electrical system is

standardized. By having the proper tools, following the safety tips outlined earlier and using only marine electrical equipment, wiring your boat for n AC current can be relatively simple. The aufhor, Scoff Hen y, is fhe sales manager for Marinco, a leading manufacturer of marine electrical systems and equipment fhaf is designed for ease of installation, for practicdify, and for a long service life in the marine environment. Marinco, 92 Hamilton Drive, Ignacio, CA 94947.

Pictured are some of the basic tools and supplies that make wiring aboard a boat an easy task. In addition to the items shown, you may have occasion to use an electric drill and a saber saw, particularly when youre adding another shore power cord or a new receptacle. A. Multipurpose Tool. This tool allows the insulation to be easily stripped from wires without damaging the wire conductors. The same tool is used to cut wire and to crimp the insulated, solderless connectors on to the wire. For optimum connections, the crimping tool should be compatible with the insulated connector (tool and connector from the same manufacturer). B. Wire Cutters. This form of pliers is strictly used for cutting wire conductors. Their shape and design makes them ideal for performing clean, even cuts of multi-stranded marine wire. C. Screwdrivers. Both Phillips head and straight slot screwdrivers. D. Tester. To check that all current is off before you begin to work on AC electrical items. E. Crimp-on Connectors. Available in a variety of wire and stud sizes, these connectors crimp on to multi-stranded wire and fasten securely to the terminal screws of receptacles and breakers. F. Cable Clamps and Support Clips. Available now in nylon or metal with rubber insulation, cable clamps are an effective way to support wiring. G. Electrical Tape. It is a good practice to apply electrical tape around the wire and the insulation of the crimp-on connector to prevent moisture fromentering the connection. Electrical tracer tape comes in a variety of colors and can be used to identify various circuits.

What You Need Before You Start